IHA Spring 2020 by The International Hair Authority

DISTRIBUTION

MARKETING Top Selling Hair Supplement

Superhairpieces At home in America

All about Viviscal Pg. 4

Pg. 16

TECHNOLOGY

STYLING

Designing a Hair Robot Gabe Zingaretti looks back Pg. 11

Wig Slippage be Gone! New headband Pg.32

The International Hair Authority

Volume 24 No 83

The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation

Spring 2020

Hair Loss Industry Mourns Loss of Sy Sperling (1942-2020) Boca Raton, 20,02,17 – The hair loss industry was stunned to learn of the passing of Hair Club founder and industry icon, Sy Sperling. Famous for his slogan, “I’m not only the president, I’m also a client,” Sy grew Hair Club from a small studio on New York’s Madison avenue into a multi-million-dollar enterprise. Sy sold Hair Club in 2000, but hair care was always on his mind and even over the dinner table he would regale his friends with new ideas to help people suffering from hair loss. Sy Sperling’s energy and imagination never slowed down. To hair loss sufferers everywhere, Sy will always be “… also a client.

After Wen, DevaCurl

In a legal dispute similar to the one faced by Wen Hair Care, products in 2016, DevaCurl a company, “Dedicated to one thing--curls!” is facing 10 class-action lawsuits from customers who claim DevaCurl damaged their scalps and made their hair fall out. Deva Curl vigorously refutes these claims, pointing out on their website, “ We were free of harsh ingredients long before it was buzzworthy, and we did it because it was the right thing to do for curls,” adding, “We test our products on actual people, not mannequins or hair swatches... Each new product is perfected and only introduced to the market after receiving your stamp of approval and undergoing our strict safety testing protocols.” Despite these protestations, a Facebook group called “Hair Damage & Hair Loss from DevaCurl — You’re not CRAZY or ALONE” has 60,000 members.

Rat Tests Show HairLoss Reduction After Cancer Treatment New York, 03, 2020: A 12-week study by Hoth Therapeutics suggests the potential of WEG232, a topical treatment for hair loss, in reducing the side effects of Erlotinib. Erlotinib is a frequently used agent that combats several cancers but can result in serious side effects including hair loss. The research with 25 SD-rats, took place at George Washington University and indicated that topical application of WEG232 could be effective in suppressing erlotinib induced-facial rash/hair loss. Roth CEO, Robb Knie, commented, “This study showed

What Comes After Emu Oil? Amla Oil

You’ve seen it before, emu oil, egg yolk, beer, Swiss apple stem cells ... and now here comes amla oil, a natural oil extracted from the Indian gooseberry (Phyllanthus emblica). It has long been used in ayurveda, a natural healing practice, and recent research has found amla oil to be a powerful inhibitor of 5-alpha reductase. Researchers in India have reported that amla and other herbal hair oils improve hair health and boost hair growth in rabbits and rats. And coming shortly to a website near you, Ketoconazole, an antifungal agent that inhibits the synthesis of ergosterol, a material found in the cell membrane of fungi that inhibits an enzyme called 5-lipooxygenase and blocks the synthesis of testosterone and the concentration of DHT.

Challenging Time for Artas & Neograft

Venus Concept 2019 Financials

Venus Concept Inc., a technology company specializing in min imally invasive and non-invasive medical aesthetic and hair restoration technologies, recorded a net loss of $40.6 million for the fiscal year 2019, compared to loss of $15.0 million in 2018. Venus Concept acquired the ARTAS Robotic Hair Restoration Systems in November 2019. The company’s portfolio also includes NeoGraft, an automated hair restoration system that facilitates the harvesting of follicles during a FUE process. IHA

2 Hair Authority Spring 2020

Science + Aesthetics PROVEN NON-SURGICAL SOLUTIONS FOR THINNING HAIR Science meets aesthetics to give your patients something new: a complete system that targets thinning hair inside and out. While clinically proven ViviscalTM PRO Supplements promote existing hair growth in 6 months, XFusionTM by ToppikTM Keratin Hair Fibers conceal thinning hair instantly. Together, they offer the perfect complement to your hair loss treatments and procedures, giving patients the short-term and long-term solutions that they need to fight the effects of hair loss and boost their confidence.*

XFusionTM by ToppikTM Keratin Hair Fibers • Instant Transformation • Decades of Loyal Users • Confidence Booster

ViviscalTM PRO Supplements • Over 25 Years & 10 Published Trials • Clinically Proven

Customer Service (800) 277-3316 VIVISCALPROFESSIONAL.COM XFUSIONHAIR.COM Materials of Church & Dwight, Co. Inc., the makers of Viviscal™ and XFusion™ by Toppik™. Copyright© 2019 Church & Dwight Co., Inc. All rights reserved. * These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.

Hair Authority Spring 2020 3

Editorial Being natural - The other evening I

stumbled across a rerun of The Bachelor on late night TV. It sent messages, which I believe to be the antithesis of everything we stand for in hair replacement. Seeing the ladies arrive to meet the bachelor for the first time, it became obvious that message was to be instantly attractive to get noticed. One after one, the candidates emerged from the limousine in tight evening dresses with plunging necklines designed to outline every part of their body. As the show progressed, it became clear that, after creating a first impression by showing all, the next step to curry favor, was to offer all. And to prove this, the girl who kissed the bachelor first got the first rose. Towards the end of the show. Things become even more focused. After showing all and then offering all (also known as “being vulnerable”), the last three contestants now have to deliver all in the infamous “Fantasy Suite.” Not only does this cheapen the participants and send the wrong message to young viewers about how to succeed in personal relationships, it is also the antithesis of everything we stand for in hair replacement. Our profession seeks to maintain confidence and dignity when your hair thins, or you lose it because of a medical procedure, like chemotherapy. The days of jet skis and getting a date because of hair replacement are thankfully behind us. In our last issue, I wrote about just being yourself. And at its best, that’s what hair replacement stands for. We work hard to restore self-confidence and let our clients and patients be, and continue to be, the person they always were.

Blog Time - It is with pleasure that I am announcing the creation of two new blogs on our Hair Authority website (hairauthority.com). One will be from me and will include industry insights and marketing advice The second comes from our European editor, Hans Diks who adds his own news and comments from “across the pond.” Hans is a prolific writer, but his original blog is written in Dutch and then auto-translated by Google, so keep your eyes open for some humorous snippets from time to time. Importance of Planning Ahead – Over the years, I have tried just about every type of hair system from human hair

Before

After

to Cyberhair and every type of attachment. 15 years ago, I had a hair transplant and was so pleased with the results that I quickly followed it up with a second session. Now 15 years later, although the hair on the top of my head has continued to thin, the transplanted hair remains healthy and strong. The good news is that because my transplant was carefully planned in anticipation of future thinning, I do not have that island of hair surrounded by baldness that you see on clients who do not have a medical director with vision. It is easy for doctors to provide instant gratification by creating thick front hairlines without regard for the future. And that’s what you so often see when people choose a cut price procedure overseas. My earnest advice, based on experience, is to carefully select the specialist you entrust with you scalp and make sure that he or she has the wisdom to plan for the next 15 years, not the next six months! Don’t Stress – In our next issue, we explore the role of stress and its impact on hair loss. Will we see more thinning as a result of Covid 19 and will it reverse? The Hair Authority talks to medical and lifestyle experts to tell you what to expect from your clients. Meanwhile, keep your own cortisol levels down… and we look forward to seeing you back in these pages in the next few weeks. Stay well, Chris Webb

4 Hair Authority Spring 2020

The Chinese Hair Factory that Calls America Home Meet CEO, George Li At a time when many companies see their future in Asia, it is refreshing and perhaps surprising to see a Chinese hair company move its headquarters and support services to North America. But this is what Superhairpieces has done and the company has established offices in Mississauga, Canada and Ft. Lauderdale, FL. To learn more, The International Hair Authority met with the company president, Mr. George Li. Your factory is in China, but you made the decision to establish your business headquarters in North America. What led you to move your operating base to the US?

Today, we have a US team that is full of passion about what they are doing. In fact, we recently conducted a survey among our top hair replacement centers, and they all told us that they love our customer service.

The hairpiece supply chain never stops shifting as it follows the world economy and globalization. It migrated from Hongkong to Korea in George Li, CEO the 1970s, then on to China in the 1980s. It is now moving towards South East Asia.

About 5 years ago, we opened our first US office. We gradually built up our online sales and support team and opened a new warehouse. And we started actively reaching out to hair replacement professionals. Many members in this community started watching our growth and began talking about us. We were able to convert hundreds of them into our client base and I’m proud to say that this number keeps growing.

My sister learned how to make hairpieces in 1980s and started her own factory in the 1990s. However, during the 2000s, as the supply chain started shifting and we had to seek new ways to grow our business. So, we decided to come to US to be closer to our major market and be the independent supplier with direct connections back to its own production center. North America is a big and sophisticated market and we wanted to be part of the mainstream. To do this we needed to be able to communicate directly with our customers, ship out products faster and take care of all their support requirements. Our company focus was simple - satisfy the consumer. And to do that we needed to be close to the end-user.

American culture also encourages competition and I believe that’s an important force that drives industry to evolve. We knew this would stimulate our own product innovation and help us better adapt to the consumer.

You could have chosen any city in the United States as your HQ, but you selected Fort Lauderdale in Florida, the heartland of hair replacement. Why did you relocate right in the middle of all your competitors? Since we already had an office in Canada, we wanted a location on the East Coast that had direct flights to Toronto. After doing my research, I told to my wife, “I have two cities I would like to go and see; Orlando and Miami. They both have a direct flight from Toronto daily.” My wife replied, ”Which one is closest to the ocean? I prefer living by the sea.“ I was not surprised because our manufacturing center in China is also located by the ocean, so I went ahead and circled Fort Lauderdale on the map. We never knew that this new office would be right in the heartland of hair replacement manufacturers. We didn’t realize this until two months after we had opened when we

Hair Authority Spring 2020 5

2 From L to R: George Li, Jessica Caminiti, Olivia Li, Elizabeth Nolasco, Mercedes Farinas, Amy Li, Erika Mulero, Cameil Foster, Ashley, Torres, Marcello Marran, Stephanie Candenas

We quickly maxed out the Toronto market with its limited population, so we started to explore opportunities in the US professional market. And to boost volume, we also began to target online sales. At that time, the cyber world wasn’t as crowded as it is today; there were only about 6 major online sellers, 5 from US and 1 from Canada. So, we launched into this competitive market and were able to quickly “Our long-term mission is to convert generate a substantial cushairpieces from a luxury lifestyle of an tomer base.

received an order from a salon that wasn’t one of our regular customers and we noticed that the printed custom order sheet they were using was from a local competitor. It wasn’t long before we discovered this was just one of many in the area. Superhairpieces was established in 2007, but many people still don’t know about the company, why did you keep a low profile?

older generation to an everyday lifestyle for the younger generation.”

We wanted to study the market and do things right, so we began with a regional test market. Superhairpieces started operations in Toronto in 2007 and our customers were mainly local hair replacement centers. Toronto is a strong hair replacement market and it was an excellent base to gain experience.

Back in China, our factory was building new facilities and hiring more employees to meet our need for superior product quality and consistency. As the factory expanded, it demanded more sales from us to justify the ongoing investment.

As we gained experience, and with the benefit of the market feedback, we expanded our product selection and boosted inventory levels. Manufacturing quality as well as sales jumped to a higher level and we became one of the largest online distributors. Superhairpieces has now become one of the best-known brands in the online community across the world. Many distributors will only sell to hair loss professionals, but you are selling both to hair replacement studios and to the public. How do you avoid a conflict of interest? Cont’d Pg 6

6 Hair Authority Spring 2020 Cyberspace and the real world used to be completely separate. Not anymore. Most of our clients are part of a younger generation who are Internet savvy… but first-time wearers of hairpieces. Our online sales effort reaches out to this younger generation which is experiencing hair loss and offers them

“We developed a unique business model to help our clients get their products as quickly as possible. It’s never been this fast or easy before.” the choice of a lifestyle with hairpieces that are modern and stylish. We also know that many hair stylists, barbers and hair replacement professionals are also seeking new ways to adapt to this trend. They are actively searching for new resources and opportunities by using online services. We are excited that we have a jump start in this market. We have been growing, and continue to grow, as we invest our resources into new technology and staying up to date in the beauty market. We

Many people call it a conflict; we call it an emerging trend. We see the hair loss industry growing in all directions, non-surgical hair replacement, surgical hair transplants, not to mention all the other medical and pharmaceutical people gravitating towards this industry. Consumers are aware of these choices and they explore all the available solutions that can make their life easier and better. Consumers are already moving ahead; we are simply following their lead, needs and wants. We want to be a leader in helping the younger generation transition into a lifestyle of wearing a hair system. This is one of our main goals! Cyberspace is where we came from and intend to stay. We have been accepted by hair replacement professionals and we will never forget where we came from. To avoid any conflict, all our professional customers have a different log-in which has a different pricing structure and extra discounts. Due to the nature of the online environment and the fact that people are looking at pricing, we want to offer the lowest price they can afford. Web Marketing demands a special skill set. Is your IT and engineering background a key asset?

IHA

Hair Authority Spring 2020 7 Superhairpieces can offer all these important services right here in the US. We have updated our factory to the highest quality standards and our customer support and warehouse are based in America. By cutting prices even lower than those they pay when ordering from China, we are able to help professionals and consumers to solve their problems with taking the risk of losing their money and all the hassles that come with it. This allows them to save their precious time and to focus on growing their own business and enjoying life.

are merging these two worlds together. Many people may be tempted to buy direct from factories in Asia. Why should they choose Superhairpieces instead? People will always be tempted to buy direct from Asia to try and save money. They want to purchase products at a lower price and talk to the manufacturer directly to discuss product issues. They even accept the challenge of language barriers and time zone differences and try to compare and select the right supplier from the numerous mass-emails they receive. I understand this, but they quickly run into the headaches of inconsistency from piece to piece and the inconvenience of mail in and out. Not to mention the risk of funds being transferred safety, the inconvenience of returns or exchanges, and uninsured warrantees.

In addition to hair replacement products and hair extensions, you also offer a selection of wet goods, styling aids and other healthcare items. Do you intend to become a full-service hair management company? Yes, we aim

Cont’d Pg 8

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8 Hair Authority Spring 2020 as you would expect, the family wanted to be together, so I relocated there. My first job in Canada was as a technician in a consumer electronics company, but I wasn’t happy, and my father suggested that I got involved in the family business of making & selling hairpieces. That’s how it all began. Do the analytical skills and training you acquired during the IT years help you now as you build a personal care company? My IT career help me to gain the knowledge I needed to be efficient in business. That early experience trained me to know that innovation and quality control is the key to success. I became the ISO-9001 chief officer in our company’s R&D department, which helped me to plan and successfully launch many different hairpiece models into the market. I am still doing this today for Superhairpieces. My IT experience also helped me deploy and update Ecommerce technology into our website, creating an up-to-date and advanced system that is very close to the Amazon online shopping experience. What is the one product you are most proud of? It would be one of our men’s model M101 hair systems and its new brother, the Pro series - M101Pro. M101 is a men’s thin-skin hairpiece and it has been our best-seller for over 10 years! What is your short term and long-term vision for the company? In the short term, we are focused on fast growth. In the to fulfill all the needs of every consumer. When customers age of the Internet, the process of searching, comparing buy from us, they want this to be a one-stop shopping expeand finding the best businesses can be done in just a few rience. They expect that convenience. We are actively seeking minutes. Consumers have gained these search skills and an all-in-one solution to better serve our customers’ needs. only the top first or the second best-ranked companies will We are always looking for new innovative supplies to add survive. Superhairpieces is in to our product line. In 2019, a leading position right now we launched our own brand “Younger generation consumers have their and we need to maintain this of Super Blue tape and Super own way of making decisions. Either you growth to remain one of the Red tape and added Mink best online hairpiece sellers. adapt and make products that work for Eyelash products for our hair Our long-term mission is to extension buyers. In 2020, them, or you do nothing, and they convert hairpieces from a we will be launching our new luxury lifestyle of an older disappear and go somewhere else.” wet line of hair care products generation to an everyday under our own brand. lifestyle for the younger You have an information techgeneration. nology/computer background. What led you to the thinning What is the one thing you would most like our readers to hair market? know about Superhairpieces? My family brought me into the hair industry. I actually started my career as an IT engineer working in the US branch of Hisense. We sold products to companies like Best Buy and this is where I gained my business experience. My wife Oliva and son were located in Canada at the time and,

We developed a unique business model to help our clients get their products as quickly as possible. It’s never been this fast or easy before. We stock as many variations as we can to make our hairpieces ready to wear within 24 hours. We try to share as much detailed information as possible on our

Hair Authority Spring 2020 9 “website” and in our “Blog.” We help customers make the best decisions in a fast and easy format. Younger generation consumers have their own way of making decisions. Either you adapt and make products that work for them, or you do nothing, and they disappear and go somewhere else. We are working hard to convert the younger generation into wearing hairpieces and creating a new lifestyle. This will be a great benefit to hair replacement centers everywhere by expanding their business horizon to the younger generations. We carry the best men’s & women’s hairpieces, hair toppers and wigs. Our Grade 5 & 6 hair-extensions are made from the highest quality on the market today. Our hair extensions are especially popular in the Canadian market. The quality is outstanding, and the price is unbelievable! If you had to summarize Superhairpieces in one sentence or slogan, what would that be? We are the new generation hair piece company! People like to know about the personalities behind the products they buy. Tell us about yourself. I have an engineer’s background which helped me to build the Superhairpieces culture. With this mindset, I believe in creating high quality products with the best technology out there to offer superior solutions to all our consumers. Are there any other staff members you would like to introduce so when people phone your company they will be talking with a friend? I would like to introduce my wife, Olivia. She works with our custom-order team. She has been working with me for over 10 years and she still runs to picks up the phone calls whenever it rings. I would also like to introduce Mr. Marcello Masseran, my sales and marketing manager who started working with us when we opened our US office. He is the person who keeps in touch with all our hair replacement professionals. He is the key contact for all hair studios. Looking ahead, what plans does the company have? In 2019, we relocated our head office from Canada to US and consolidated our hairpiece support team into our Fort Lauderdale operation to bring us closer to the market. In 2020, we will open our “Evolve Global Academy” and offer Free Demo’s. We welcome all hair and medical professionals to join us! We will also be offering year-round free hair seminars and online education. We see the need and hope to meet a lot more hair professionals in 2020.

Any new products on the horizon? We have just launched our New Perm and Afro Series. It’s no secret that achieving the curl you need is no easy task. If you’re tired of being left having to perform harsh, damaging processes on your brand-new unit - you’re not alone. Superhairpieces is dedicated to offering you the best range of in-stock men’s hair replacement units, so we decided to take care of the hard part for you. We are so excited to introduce our exclusive line of Perm and Afro units, so no curl pattern gets left behind. Get the curls you love, and we’ll take care of the TLC your curls will need! Will the Coronavirus problems affect delivery of your custom-made hairpieces? No Worries – You can still get the hair you need with a wait time you’ll love. Great hair and great designs take time, but, what if you could get the quality you love, with a wait time that’s even better? With the recent outbreak of the Coronavirus, restrictions in importing and exporting may leave you in a bind trying to get your hairpiece in time. But Superhairpieces has more than just your scalp covered. We’ve got your back too! We’re in the business of providing quality, without sacrificing time. To make this possible we’re proud to provide our customers with a full range of in-stock hairpieces. With options in Perm, Bleach Front, Afro, and a full range of hair colors all in stock and ready ship out from our Florida headquarters, you’ll see why we’re the pioneers of a new kind of hairpiece. For more information, please visit Superhairpieces.com Any final comments? If you flip back through the Hair Authority magazine to the Spring issue of 2009, you will find an article written by Mr. Steven DiManni titled, “Men’s Hair Replacement & the U.S. Auto Industry”. In this article, Mr. Steven pointed out three problems in the hair replacement industry. 1. A resistance to change. 2. A misreading of market trends. 3. The desire to continue to offer what the industry wanted rather than the consumer wanted. In the article, DiManni challenged readers, “Who cares about the consumer?” And we said to ourselves, “We Do!!” IHA

10 Hair Authority Spring 2020

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Hair Authority Spring 2020 11

How To Develop A Robotic Medical Device! Gabe Zingaretti, Chief Operating Officer at Docbot

The Artas robotic hair restoration system, developed by Silicon Valley based Restoration Robotics, was acquired in 2018 by Venus Concept Inc., a medical aesthetic technology company. Following completion of the deal, Restoration Robotics moved its corporate headquarters to Toronto, Canada. The combined company now operates under the leadership of Venus Concept’s management team. The Venus hair restoration division includes NeoGraft, an automated hair restoration system that facilitates the harvesting of follicles during a FUE process and the newly acquired ARTAS and ARTAS iX Robotic Hair Restoration Systems, which harvest follicular units directly from the scalp and create recipient implant sites using proprietary algorithms. The International Hair Authority interviewed CEO, Ryan Rhodes and COO, Gabe Zingaretti in 2018 and now shares the reminiscences of Gabe Zingaretti as he looks back on the vision and energy that went into developing The worlds first and only robotic system in aesthetic medicine I meant to write this article a while back, and while my day is so full and immediate needs for my time arises minute after minute, today I have decided to take some time to express my thoughts. The world of medical devices is changing, I have seen it before with the Gabe Zingarett, COO introduction of DICOM and PACS. Everything went digital, every medical device company that needed to image something, had to be DICOM compatible. The race was on and every company marched towards the goal. Ultimately, DICOM became the standard and now it’s just a given....that is how the world works! There is a new race, the race towards using a robot...pretty much for anything. While it is fun, new and having a robotic device in your Series A power deck can help get you some start up money, it may or may not help you in the long run. In fact using a Robot to solve a problem may be the reason your problem may never be solved. Robots don’t solve a problem, a 6 axis robotic arm implements a solution to a problem. The solution is not the robotic arm. The difference is subtle, yet the outcome is quite different. When I joined Restoration Robotics, we had a solution to a problem. The problem in a very high level was: “Harvest Hair Grafts, Without Damaging Them and Ease the Physician’s Repetitive Work”. The solution was, we needed an

automated system that could repeat the same motion over and over, with precision. We also needed a system that we could couple with a Machine Vision and Artificial Intelligence module. The best way to implement that solution was a Robotic Arm, we used a 6 axis arm because we didn’t want to develop our own but that wasn’t out of the question, It was a choice. We were in a race, we were racing against time to market. The use of a 6 axis robotic arm saved 3 years from our R&D development and another year from getting all the regulatory agencies’ approvals. ARTAS was born in 2011, a 6 axis robot with a Vision System so sophisticated it could track hair while a patient is moving without the need of external cameras or sensors. A dissection technique that can manipulate tissue in real time and learn harvest after harvest thanks to its amazing Artificial Intelligence. So going back to the title, how do you build a Robotic Medical Device? You don’t. You find a problem, you solve the problem and you implement the solution. If your solution has a robot in there, great! If not that is great too, you want to build the best product there is...Robotic or Not. We build medical devices to help mankind, that should always be the goal! IHA

12 Hair Authority Spring 2020

Hair to Dye For

DIY Tutorials for Modern Mermaids, Creative Cosplay, and Everyday Glamour By: Ash Fortis In this book you will find clear and helpful diagrams that will make these techniques easy. Whether you’re maintaining a beautiful existing color, or creating something new and more adventurous, this book shows how to customize these techniques and make them all your own. This book is a great tool for anyone interested in creative hair color, including salon professionals, new cosmetology graduates, and the clients they serve every day. “Hair to Dye For” demystifies how to get a wide range of hair color effects while maintaining healthy, beautiful hair.

Sometimes the hair you order and match so carefully to your client’s own hair doesn’t come back from the factory as you both expected. And sometimes your client just wants to have fun with their hair... and why not! Either way, it’s good to have your color skills honed and up to date. So, here’s a cool book to get you started. Ever wanted blue hair? How about red, purple, green, white, pink, or grey? How about a bunch of those at once? With this book, your fantasy hair can now become a reality. Written by wellknown hair colorist Ash Fortis, “Hair to Dye For” includes simple step-by-step instructions for both professionals and non-professionals on how to do dozens of spectacularly colored hair dye techniques–– from highlights to hologram hair!

Featuring gorgeous photography and custom how-to illustrations, this book will not only show you how to dye hair, it will give you inspiration for amazing looks you’d never even imagined. From a simple bold highlight to the unicorn hair of your dreams, this is the ultimate how to guide for achieving amazing hair color with easy step by step instruction. About the Author: Ash Fortis is the founder and creator of XO Hair Lab. Ash Fortis has worked alongside Pulp Riot Hair color company and was one of the co-creators that built the brand from the ground up. Pulp Riot has had great success and was recently purchased by L’Oreal. Her passion for hair color and education has elevated her to new heights in the industry–– her techniques and tutorials have been features in BuzzFeed, Allure, Good Morning America, Insider Beauty. About the publisher: Founded in 1984, Weldon Owen specializes in lifestyle books that illustrate great ideas and break down complex skills so anyone can learn them. For more information and inspiration, visit, www.weldonowen.com. IHA

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Hair Authority Spring 2020 13

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You need more clients and prospects to find (and trust) you • Today, your special skills are invisible. • Your investment in workshops and seminars is wasted. • Web marketing is too expensive for a single studio / clinic.

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16 Hair Authority Spring 2020

All About Viviscal Church & Dwight acquired hair growth supplements and treatments brand Viviscal from Ireland-based Lifes2good in 2017 for $160 million. Entrepreneur James Murphy, founder of Lifes2good, said of the sale: “We are enormously proud of our achievement in building Viviscal into a hugely successful global brand that has enjoyed meteoric growth. We are however delighted that Church & Dwight, a highly regarded and fast-growing US consumers business, will lead the brand in its next phase of development.” The Hair Authority met with the management team behind Viviscal to learn more about the brand’s development, testing and marketing success. Viviscal supplements are the top hair growth supplement for women in the US. What lies behind this remarkable success? My favorite question that I receive from a physician is “Does this really work?”. I can always confidently say “Absolutely, yes it does. And we have 25 years of published clinical data to back it up.” Viviscal’s success is attributed exactly to that… it works. We have 10 clinical trials that have been published in various reputable peer-reviewed medical journals. A number of those trials were double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled studies and back up our results of reducing shedding and increasing hair existing hair growth and hair thickness. Is Viviscal for women AND men?

“Viviscal PRO is our strongest formulation available. It has 50mg more per day of the AminoMar™ complex, which comprises most of the formula.” Our professional formula, Viviscal PRO, is our strongest formulation available and is suitable for both men and women. What does the brand-name Viviscal mean? The brand name Viviscal stands for rejuvenation of the hair. “Vivi” comes from the Latin root meaning “liven” and “scal”

represents scalp. Viviscal -> Bring life to the scalp. What is the difference between regular Viviscal and Viviscal Pro? Viviscal PRO is our strongest formulation available. It has 50mg more per day of the AminoMar™ complex, which comprises most of the formula. It also has additional ingredients of Apple Extract Powder (Procyanidin B-2, 84mg) and essential Amino Acids (L-Cystine and L-Methionine, 50mg). Viviscal PRO is only sold thru medical and licensed beauty professionals. We have over 4000 medical practices actively offering Viviscal PRO to their patients. Viviscal is sold thru national retailers like Walmart, Target, CVS, Walgreens and directly to the customer.

Hair Authority Spring 2020 17 can Society of Dermatologic Surgery) and NAAF (National Alopecia Areata Foundation). What is the complete Viviscal program? What are the components and how do they work together? Viviscal supplements are the true “work horse” behind the program. The offer the vital nutrients internally to nourish existing hair growth and to stimulate/prolong the anagen phase of the hair growth cycle. While the supplements work on the inside, the topical line of Viviscal Thickening Shampoo, Conditioner and Elixir are working to protect what is on the outside. They each work to thicken and add volume to thin or fine hair. What makes Viviscal different from any other regimen? Viviscal supplements are the most clinically proven hair growth supplement on the market today. No other hair growth supplement comes close to the amount of research that we have completed over the past 25+ years. That is our biggest differentiation. New is not necessarily always best. What are the ingredients in Viviscal? Are they drugs? The main active ingredient in Viviscal supplements is AminoMar™, a proprietary marine collagen complex. It is 100% drug-free. Does lifestyle affect hair health? What other changes should people make in addition to Viviscal? There are many hair regimens, some based on folklore or “wellness” and others which have clinical trials to support them. What evidence is there that Viviscal actually works? The first clinical trial proving Viviscal’s efficacy was published in 1992 in The Journal of International Medical Research. The efficacy of Viviscal is supported in ten published clinical studies, including the most recent double-blind, placebo-controlled scientific research programs which demonstrated a statistically significant reduction in hair shedding, increase in hair thickness and increase in terminal hair count over a six-month period. Additional information and a full overview of the clinical trials can be found at: https://www. viviscalprofessional.com/clinically-proven-studies.html Has Viviscal been endorsed by any professional organization? Viviscal does not have paid endorsements from any professional organizations. We believe in the power of research and education and offer grants and support to multiple organizations like AHRS (American Hair Research Society), CARF (Cicatricial Alopecia Research Foundation), ASDS (Ameri-

Lifestyle can absolutely affect hair health. Various lifestyle factors like poor eating habits, smoking, over-styling and stress can contribute to hair loss. More than 50% of women have at least 2 factors that contribute to their hair loss or hair thinning. So, it’s not easy to pinpoint one specific thing.

“In a category full of false promises Viviscal PRO is clinically proven to reduce shedding, increase existing hair growth and promote hair thickness. ” Multiple lifestyle changes may need to occur to help support healthier hair. Can Viviscal be purchased over the counter or do you need a prescription? Viviscal is a non-prescription hair growth supplement. It can be purchased OTC at national retailers, or the professional Cont’d Pg 20

HairClub® is the world’s foremost hair authority, pioneering the gold-standard in hair regrowth, replacement, and restoration for over 40-years. With over 800 of the most artistic and talented stylists and hair health professionals in more than 120 state-of-the-art centers throughout the United States, Canada, and Puerto Rico, Hair Club is second-to-none in quality, experience, customer service, innovative technology, and success. Customers agree - HairClub schedules a new client consultation every seven-minutes. Over 1,200 employees define success and a culture of doing well while doing the right thing. With programs like HairClub for Kids (which provides free hair to children in need), and discounted as well as complimentary services for veterans, first-responders and Seniors, Hair Club’s people are fundamentally transforming lives while serving our communities. HairClub is the embodiment of industry, customer care, and community leadership. Love your hair. Live your life™.

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20 Hair Authority Spring 2020

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formulation can be purchased thru medical practices and licensed beauty professionals. Where was Viviscal first developed and by whom? The exclusive active ingredient in Viviscal supplements was first developed in the 1980s. A Scandinavian professor studying the Inuit populations discovered that their healthy hair

“Viviscal supplements can be used in conjunction with any hair loss treatment like low level laser light therapy, PRP or prescribed drug treatments.” and skin was the result of their fish- and protein-rich diet. The professor isolated the key protein molecules from their diet and it was from these origins that the marine complex AminoMar™ was created. Church & Dwight also offers Toppik Hair Fibers. Can hair fibers be used in conjunction with the Viviscal regimen?

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Absolutely! Viviscal supplements are proven to support hair growth in as little as 3 months, but a lot of patients are looking for something that can immediately address thinning hair or hair loss. Toppik Hair Building Fibers are colored organic fibers made of pure keratin protein—the same protein that makes up human hair. When shaken onto balding or thinning hair, the fibers instantly and securely attach to existing hair to fill in areas that are sparse, giving the appearance thicker, fuller looking hair.

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Can Viviscal help patients who are planning hair transplant surgery? Should they take Viviscal before or after their procedure? Patients should always consult with their doctor first. Taking Viviscal supplements 3-6 months prior to a hair transplant

Hair Authority Spring 2020 21 surgery can help support the thickening and growth of dormant donor hairs. Post-surgery, to support the healthiest existing hair growth, it has been recommended by hair surgeons to continue with the Viviscal supplements.

“Absolutely! Viviscal supplements are proven to support hair growth in as little as 3 months, but a lot of patients are looking for something that can immediately address thinning hair or hair loss. ” Does Viviscal enhance low level laser light therapy?

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Viviscal supplements can be used in conjunction with any hair loss treatment like low level laser light therapy, PRP or prescribed drug treatments. Patients should always consult with their doctor first. Why should hair loss professionals recommend for Viviscal Pro to their clients? In a category full of false promises Viviscal PRO is clinically proven to reduce shedding, increase existing hair growth and promote hair thickness. The easiest option for any client or patient who is suffering from hair loss or thinning. It is drugfree, and you can see results in as little as 3 months just by taking 2 pills a day, morning and night. How can readers of this article become a Viviscal Professional retailer You can sign up for an account directly thru www.vxprohair. com, or reach out to Hair Authority for various specialized programs that can provide proven solutions to offer to your clients and patients. About: LAUREN DUDEK – brand team and education lead. A 15+ veteran marketer and global educator in the medical aesthetics & beauty industry, Lauren has combined her passion for hair and philanthropy in teaching about hair loss & thinning to physicians, medical professionals, and stylists. She has spent much of her career as a marketing and practice building consultant for dermatologists and plastic surgeons, as well as creating and launching a custom education course for L’Oréal’s professional skincare brand, Skinceuticals. She now leverages her knowledge within the medical and beauty professional communities with innovative business building tips and an emphasis on proven products. IHA

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22 Hair Authority Spring 2020

Reflections of an Advertising Professional By Steven DiManni Steve DiManni provided marketing and advertising services to the hair replacement industry for over 25 years. He saw the industry evolve from a wig and toupee-based market to a sophisticated multi-solutions market headed by financial analysts and database managers. Steve was accustomed to rapid change; indeed, his business was creating change since he worked for a prominent New York advertising agency. However, no matter how much the industry restructures the fundamentals remain the same.

In this article, Steve takes us back to basics and reminds us that we are dealing with that most delicate of all emotions, a man or woman’s self-image and that this needs to be addressed with empathy and understanding. Steve believed that strong feelings like these are best addressed through carefully crafted marketing and advertising and urged companies to develop strong communications programs. Steve was a close friend of The Hair Authority and one of the most insightful analysts in the hair management industry. A 24-year veteran of Madison Avenue and a 23-year veteran of the hair restoration industry, Steve won almost every major advertising industry creative award in existence, including Clios, Andys, and Effies. He was a Senior Vice President and Creative Director at a $100 million New York advertising agency and a long-time consultant to the OnRite Company. Steve DiManni passed away in 2011.

Early days - I want to take readers back in time to the 80s when the hair industry as we know it today was still in development. HRS, the brainchild of Leo Benjamin, was being developed by Jules Bornstein. It was a marketing cooperative that was soon to become a franchise. Hair Club for Men was about to move from print into its first TV commercials. Monte Carlo, who you don’t hear about today, was a leading hair manufacturer. Print advertising was delivering lead costs at $50 a lead, so if you spent two or $300 for an ad in a New Jersey newspaper, you’d get five leads. Then we all went on TV and, all of a sudden, we began getting leads at $20-$25 and the phone would not stop ringing. Everybody wanted to buy hair. People wanted to know about hair replacement and barbershops and men’s hair salons started seeing their fellow haircutters make money and they wanted to be part of the business too.

Wild West - By the late 80s, everything had kicked into

high gear. The industry was being largely driven by Hair Club, but other people were starting to copy Hair Club commercials. Even independent operators would try to copy a Hair Club commercial, sometimes almost word for word. It was the Wild West, but everyone was making money.

Smarter Consumers - With the passage of time, the

consumer got smarter. The consumer started realizing that this hair system thing was really like a toupee or hair weave and the wonder factor left. Unfortunately, the industry did not help matters. It stayed with the same old story of building confidence. “I’m so confident now... I’m confident with all the girls... I’m on the Jet Ski… I’m on a motorcycle.” The advertising showed people doing ridiculous stunts to show that their hair wouldn’t fly off. Why did they even raise the question?

Get Professional Advertising Support - Sy Sperling got lucky in the beginning because he had a good counselor and his early commercials were believable. But when amateurs started making commercials, they came up short. That’s why there are advertising agencies. General Electric has an advertising agency. McDonald’s has an advertising agency. They’re smart people. E*TRADE has an ad agency. They’re smart people. But people who try to go it alone without professional help; well they’re not smart. If, you had blocked arteries, wouldn’t you go to the best cardiac surgeon you could find? Well if your business is important to you, you want to go to the best advertising people you can find. The Plateau - The industry reached a plateau in the late

90s. Around 2000- 2001, things began to change for the worse. It was a perfect storm. Number one; transplants were getting better and better and the transplant industry was not shy about talking about its improvements. Number two; hair growth drugs, Minoxidil and Propecia gave people hope. People were saying, why put something on my head or have a transplant when I can sprinkle something on or take a pill Scarf and I’ll grow my hair back. Those two factors, combined

Hair Authority Spring 2020 23 TM

THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY with the traditional hair business not keeping pace with the times and the commercials getting more and more ridiculous, really hurt the nonsurgical hair replacement market, and it has still not fully recovered. Around this time, I moved from HRS to OnRite and we were producing some very effective stuff. We made a lot of money for studios that ran our commercials, but we could see that the independent market was getting to plateau. Lead costs were rising, and studios began to wonder if advertising still worked. What they didn’t understand was it wasn’t the medium, it was the material. Homemade commercials don’t work. Amateurs think they are very creative but then not. Many local media don’t even hire copywriters, they write the scripts themselves. They’re too busy trying to be TV producers, Madison Avenue creative directors or Hollywood moguls. It’s an insult to me as a professional who makes TV commercials for living. The saddest part is when a group of people pool resources to produce a commercial and start running it until they find it doesn’t connect with the consumer and everyone jumps ship. There was one studio owner who produced a commercial that delivered $800 leads. The guy who was responsible for this disaster bailed out and wouldn’t even run his own commercial.

Calling All Researchers - Most of the problems in the hairloss market can be traced back to a dearth of research and a poor understanding of the market. This is a big problem, but it’s also a real opportunity if and when we do our homework. Most guys realize that Propecia and Minoxidil don’t work. Or don’t produce results that are cosmetically sufficient. As for surgery, there will always be people who will be drawn to transplants and others who will rule them out. As for shaving your head, doing the Bruce Willis thing, well, that’s kind of passé now. So, there is still this demand. If you could put your finger on what men are truly looking for, there could be a renaissance of the man’s hair business. Cont’d Pg 24

The Hair Authority’s mission is to provide hairmanagement professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their clients and patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide. EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb

cwebb@hairauthority.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dylan Case dcase@hairauthority.com

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Larry Oskin info@hairauthority.com

LEGAL NOTICE

The views expressed in The International Hair Authority are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The International Hair Authority, its editors or staff. The Authority’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The International Hair Authority makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the International Hair Authority a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The International Hair Authority accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of the International Hair Authority and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The International Hair Authority, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The International Hair Authority Media Kit.

The material published in The International Hair Authority is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.

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24 Hair Authority Spring 2020 Catch 22 - The male

consumer has not been addressed in a meaningful way for a long time. It’s become a catch 22. Many studio owners think men don’t want to buy hair anymore and so they believe that advertising to them is useless. I don’t know how they think they are going to sustain themselves in the long-term because, although the women’s market is a nice niche for them, fewer women lose their hair than men. It’s a nice market segment and has served the industry well, but you can only take the cream off the top for so long. At some point they will have taken all the cream, and then they’ll not be in great shape.

Turning Things Around? I think priority number one is more research. Ideally on an industry-wide basis. At OnRite, we did a series of focus groups with two groups of men and women that Andy Wright paid for out of his own pocket. We came up with some interesting insights. Of course, focus groups are qualitative, not quantitative, but you can see what red flags are out there. One of the flags waving prominently in three of the focus groups was. “If they talk about ‘confidence’ one more time in these commercials I’ll rip my hair off. I’m not doing this for the confidence. That doesn’t have anything to do with hairloss - it’s demeaning to say that.” What you got is the industry pushing this button called “confidence” and the consumer saying, “no, no, no.” And every time you say confidence, you drive the consumer away. And now people are sitting back saying, advertising doesn’t work. That’s not true. Advertising does work. You just need the right approach. We’ve tried some small stuff like radio. And we get a lot of leads. So advertising is working. My message to salon owners is you have to work with professionals. You are doing yourself an injustice if you’re not getting marketing materials that keep up with the changing consumer. There’s always going to be attrition, you’re always going to lose clients, so you have to keep replacing clients, otherwise you’re going to grow smaller and smaller. You Get What You Pay For - Studios have to address

the fact that it’s a more complex marketplace out there. The appeals that worked well in the past just don’t hold water today. We have to find new ways to reach out to the consumer, and studios have to open their wallets. A lot of studios say, “I just put up a website.” People think that the

Internet is free. Digital media is not free. Unless you put money into a website it’s not going to work. You either have to pay per word or pay per click on the search engine. You’re also going to need your own administrator. You have to have a carefully crafted website and you’d better be using traditional media like print or television as well to drive traffic to it. You cannot just do it digitally. People are trying to do things on the cheap and they’re getting very little back because they’re putting very little into it. You get what you pay for.

How do you know what works? - Talk to other studio

owners. See what they are doing and then sort through that advice. Talk to a lot of people. Not just your friends. I go to industry conferences. Every manufacturer has a conference. Find out what’s working for other people. A lot of studios are trying out-of-the-box marketing techniques like getting ads posted in health clubs or getting on closed circuit TV in spas and health clubs. There are all sorts of alternatives out there. See what successful people are doing and stop listening to the naysayers. All the negative people say you can’t make money. But there are a lot of people out there doing very well. What sets them apart is the fact that they are not following what worked in the past; they are looking to the future.

I wish we could change our industry culture - If one

day a famous Hollywood actor came out of the closet and said, “You know what? This is not my own hair. I’ve had a hair replacement for years.” Then, perhaps, things would change. Until then, they’re always going to be jokes, stuff about Joe Biden’s hair transplant when he was running for office and so on. There’s only so much you can do about it. Of course, there are actors who’ve have had a hair replacement like Nicolas Cage or John Travolta, but they don’t talk about it. Everyone used to make fun of William Shatner, but he’s almost 80 years old and he looks like a million bucks. He’s had a hair replacement for about 50 years now and I think the guy looks great. I don’t know if William Cont’d Pg 30

Hair Authority Spring 2020 25

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28 Hair Authority Spring 2020

Trichology Section Welcome to another Trichology update. I hope you are safe and well. During the Covid 19 pandemic, people are becoming more aware of the need to pay close attention to their personal care routines and wellness in general. You can expect patients and customers to scrutinize product ingredients and clinical procedures and to expect well-informed professional support when it comes to the health of their hair and scalp. In this new environment, Trichology has a vital role to play. Trichology is the bridge between cosmetology and dermatology, and it has never been more important. If you have been considering training and certification in Trichology, now is the time to act. We have courses designed for all levels and types of professional. And we recently introduced an Associate Trichologist program that you can complete online without missing a day’s work. To find out more, visit worldtrichologysociety.com. Below, you will find a quick summary of important medical and trichological news. It is extracted from my regular newsletter to WTS members. I hope you find it helpful. David Kingsley, PhD World Trichology Society Chairman

Current Trichological and Health News New Tool May Offer Clinically Meaningful Measure of Scalp Hair Loss for Alopecia Areata Dermatology Advisor reports, “The Scalp Hair Assessment Patient-Reported Outcome™ (PRO) may be a clinically meaningful measure of scalp hair loss for use in the treatment of alopecia areata,” researchers concluded after performing “two rounds of interviews with patients with alopecia areata (30 patients in round 1 and 15 patients in round 2) who had experienced ≥50% scalp hair loss.” The findings were published online in the British Journal of Dermatology.

Researchers Observe Bidirectional Association of Alopecia Areata, MDD In Siblings Medscape reports that while “concerns about potential risks about the use of spironolactone for acne during the COVID-19 pandemic were raised on social media last month,” researchers found that “spironolactone and other androgen blockers might actually protect against the virus.” The findings were published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Medscape adds, “The American Academy of Dermatology has not said to stop spironolactone.”

Researchers Observe Bidirectional Association of Alopecia Areata, MDD In Siblings

Dermatology Advisor reports, “Unaffected siblings of probands with alopecia areata and/or major depressive disorder are also at increased risk for developing alopecia or depression compared with control patients,” investigators concluded in a study that “included 2123 probands with alopecia areata, 2298 unaffected siblings, and 9192 matched control patients who were assessed for risk for major depressive disorder [MDD],” as well as “16,543 probands with depression, 17,352 unaffected siblings, and 69,408 matched control patients were assessed for risk for developing alopecia areata.” The findings were published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.

HealthDay reports research indicates that hypothyroidism appears to be “more than twice as common in adults who worked 53 to 83 hours a week as in those who worked 36 to 42 hours a week.” Investigators arrived at this conclusion after analyzing blood work “data from 2,160 adult full-time workers in South Korea.” The study revealed that “for each 10-hour increase in the work week, people who worked longer hours had a higher risk of hypothyroidism than those who worked 10 hours less.” The findings are to be “published March 31 in a special supplemental section of the Journal of the Endocrine Society.” The study data “will be presented at the Endocrine Society (ENDO) 2020 Annual Scientific Sessions.”

Hair Authority Spring 2020 29

Patients with Atopic Eczema May Have Higher Prevalence of Anxiety, Depression Compared with Patients with Other Chronic Diseases, Researchers Say Dermatology Advisor reported, “Patients with atopic eczema have a higher prevalence of depression and anxiety compared with patients with other chronic diseases, highlighting the importance of assessing mental health comorbidities in patients with eczema to improve quality of life (QoL) outcomes,” investigators concluded in a study in which “psychosocial outcomes were compared in patients with atopic eczema (n=372) vs patients with other chronic diseases, including diabetes, cancer, and cardiovascular disease (n=9109).” The findings were published online in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology.

Dermatologists Describe How Coronavirus Can Affect the Skin ABC News reports “a growing number of prominent dermatologists treating suspected and confirmed coronavirus-positive patients are reporting patterns and trends of skin conditions, suggesting the skin could be a kind of window about what may be happening with COVID-19 inside the body.” For example, some dermatologists have described a condition called “COVID toes” where “frostbite-like areas of typically red or purple discoloration can appear on the feet can also be seen on the fingers as well.” Last week, the American Academy of Dermatology COVID-19 task force “announced an online registry for health care providers around the world to report suspected COVID-19 skin findings.”

Survey of Alopecia Areata Consensus of Experts Points to Guidance on Management Of AA

WHO Says There Is “No Evidence” People Can Only Be Infected by The New Coronavirus Once

Dermatology Advisor reported “findings from a Delphi survey of the Alopecia Areata Consensus of Experts have provided general consensus statements on the management of alopecia areata (AA), which may guide future guidance statements.” The results of the survey were published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.

NPR reported the “WHO “pushed back against the theory that individuals can only catch the coronavirus once, as well as proposals for reopening society that are based on this supposed immunity.” The WHO “said the idea that one-time infection can lead to immunity remains unproven and is thus unreliable as a foundation for the next phase of the world’s response to the pandemic.” The WHO said in a scientific brief, “Some governments have suggested that the detection of antibodies to the SARS-CoV-2, the virus that causes COVID-19, could serve as the basis for an ‘immunity passport’ or ‘risk-free certificate’ that would enable individuals to travel or to return to work assuming that they are protected against re-infection,” but there is “currently no evidence that people who have recovered from COVID-19 and have antibodies are protected from a second infection.”ww

Experts Discuss How to Treat Patients with Psychocutaneous Disease In the cover feature, Dermatology World reports on how to treat patients with psychocutaneous disease. The article discusses how to diagnose the condition and manage the patient, citing several studies and quoting multiple experts

In Patients with Cutaneous Melanoma, Risk Factors for Developing Second Melanoma Include Red and Blond Hair Color Dermatology Advisor reported that “in patients with cutaneous melanoma, red and blond hair, having more than 50 cherry angiomas and more than 100 common melanocytic nevi significantly increased the risk for developing a second melanoma, according to data published in the Journal of The European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology.” The researchers discovered “that after a median follow-up of 61 months, 3.8% of patients with sporadic cutaneous melanoma developed a second melanoma, representing a ratio of 1 in 26 patients.” Moreover, “at years 1, 2, 5, and 10, the estimated cumulative incidence of second melanomas in the overall population was 1.6%, 2.3%, 3.3% and 6.7 %, respectively.”

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30 Hair Authority Spring 2020 Shatner would be William Shatner if he didn’t have hair.

About Branding - I definitely think this is the place for

studios to go. Branding is key. If the market is flat, a studio has to take share from its competitors. One of the ways you take share is by having a greater presence in the marketplace. If there are four hair studios and you are the most well known, you’re more likely to get whatever hair replacement dollars are out there. It becomes even more important for studios focusing on a particular audience like women or a therapy like laser to brand themselves and define their market positioning.

About Hair - Hair is still seen as a commodity product,

kind of like sugar. I don’t see that hair itself has a cachet. We’re in the service business more than the product business. What we do is an art form. Base your brand on your unique skills.

The Women’s Market - Women’s hair loss is a taboo

subject. Until recently, nobody talked about it. Men are allowed to go bald; women don’t have that right. Society does not accept women with thinning hair. The psychological impact of losing your hair is devastating for a woman. It is hard for a man to understand how powerful these emotions can be.

You’re Not a Hollywood Mogul - Stop trying to be

copywriters, advertising agency executives or film producers, and stop trying to make your own advertising because it’s not going to work. It’s just never going to happen. Number two; stop saying advertising doesn’t work. It does work; it’s just that your advertising might not work. Number three; don’t always believe what other studios tell you because a lot of the time everyone is not telling the truth. The biggest mistake people in our business make is thinking about what they want and what they like, not the consumer. It’s not about them. It’s the client who’s doing the buying and he or she probably has very different ideas. If you run a commercial and you don’t make money, it’s a bad commercial. This is not art. It’s not like going to the Louvre or the Met. This is an instrument of commerce. Advertising exists for no other reason than to make money. Advertising is not for the public good.

Advertising is not an art form. Advertising is not a way to gain insight into humanity. Advertising is about selling something. And therefore, if it sells, it works. That’s good. If it doesn’t sell, it doesn’t work and that’s bad. That’s the only opinion you need.

Things to do now - Check with your suppliers to see

whatever marketing materials they have available. Number two; evaluate your website, how you’re using it and what you expect from it. And number three; check into media opportunities in your area that are more than ‘standard issue.” I keep talking about ‘creative’ because that’s the discipline I work in, but media selection is just as much a part of successful advertising as the creative end. Too many studios buy their own media. As with making commercials, buying media should be left to experts.

Change or die - If studios do not review how they are marketing their services and do not adapt their efforts to stay compatible with consumers’ current way of thinking, or dare I say, “future way of thinking,” then the studio will become more and more irrelevant. Expand or specialize - Salon managers should expand

their current offerings, but with one caveat: they had better be darned good at providing these expanded service offerings. In other words, if you want to expand into the women’s market, you’d better understand that particular target segment, and your techs had better be able to deliver a topquality product. Women do not accept compromises.

The changing market - We are now in the post-digital

age. Digital media is a reality, everyone uses it, whether we’re talking about email or websites or social media. This means a profound change in the way we reach out to consumers and garner new clients. Thirty years ago, you could get about 40 channels on cable. Today, you can get about 400. Now, expand that into all the choices that digital media gives consumers. It takes a specialist to navigate this new media marketplace.

Going it Alone - The average independent will always have

Hair Authority Spring 2020 31 a place. Look at the mainstream salon business. Sure, you have a few chains, but the independent salon that does really good work still reigns supreme... provided consumers know about it, of course. Threats - Complacency is the biggest threat facing a typical salon today... thinking you can do the same thing time and again and still expect a different result. They teach young psychologists that that’s the first sign of psychosis. OK, so, how do you get around this? Well, start opening up your mind. Forget about what Sy did twenty-five years ago. Immerse yourself in current culture. Look at what other businesses, in unrelated fields, are doing. Read different magazines, go to movies you ordinarily might pass by, listen to new music, and sometimes, just take a few moments to look around and study people.

issue on that one. So, let me put it as succinctly as I can: the consumer doesn’t differentiate between new media and conventional media; neither should we.

The “educated” consumer - I don’t think that today’s

consumers are really better educated or more discerning. I think that they’ve always been a lot smarter than people in marketing give them credit for. Sixty years ago, David Ogilvy

Opportunities - I don’t really know if there are secret

opportunities, per se, but I do know about trends. For example, I know that men’s toiletries are selling in increasing numbers. “Skin care” is no longer the province of women alone, for example. Is it that far fetched for hair replacement studios to offer skin care regimens to their clients? How about fashion? Why shouldn’t a hair replacement studio have a referral arrangement with a men’s clothing store?

Technology -The consumer has taken center stage with the advent of social media, digital communications, etc. As for branding, it has moved far beyond what people originally thought it meant. It’s not just about a logo, or a TV commercial, or a public relations effort. Every consumer touch point is part of the brand. I mean, everything, from the way the studio answers its phone, to the way it handles complaints from its clients. Even little things like having current magazines in the lobby, is part of the studio’s brand. On Leads - Is a lead still a lead? Sure, it is. As for the

quality of the lead, there’s no way to tell until you “prospect” it. A lot of studios will say, well, I got a lot of leads, but they were really low-quality leads. Well, what makes you say that? The studio owner might respond, “Well, no one came in and bought anything.” So then, you’ll follow up with the obvious questions, such as, “Did you telemarket them? Did you send them a brochure? Did you send a follow-up letter? Are you planning to contact the lead again in the next several months?” And a lot of times you find out they did none of those things. I worked my way through college selling advertising space in the college newspaper. A lot of times, I’d see some sleepy little storefront selling antiques or whatever and tell myself, “They’re not going buy an ad from me, I mean, this is a college newspaper.” But sometimes I’d walk in just for a lark and they’d give me an ad. And they’d tell me, “A lot of our customers are faculty” and here I was passing them by! As for conventional and new media working together, well, I could take the whole Hair Journal

said, “The consumer is NOT a moron, the consumer is your wife.” In other words, people all want the same thing: to be treated with respect and to be spoken to in a language that they understand. If the consumer thinks you understand their problem, they are far more likely to believe that you can offer a solution.

What to Tell the Children - I think that the hair industry has a vibrant future, unless someone comes up with a pill tomorrow that will instantly grow a person’s hair back. Failing that, and I don’t think it’s going to happen anytime soon, the hair industry provides a valuable service. A lot of people just don’t want to be bald. How we appeal to these people will always evolve; so too, will how we market ourselves. The market for our services isn’t going away any time soon.

What Market Are We In? - People replace their hair for different reasons. I’m not sure it’s an anti-aging thing; rather, an attempt to look one’s real age. Is it vanity or personal enhancement? Well, one could say the same thing about wearing nice clothing or driving a nice car. As for the “confidence” thing, that’s always been lost on me. I would just say that hair means different things to different people. I mean, the reason a 35-year-old man replaces his hair is unlikely to be the same as a 50-year-old woman who adds or extends her hair. That’s what makes the advertising business so interesting, and so challenging. Editor’s note: This article first appeared in The National Hair Journal and is reproduced again because this advice remains as pertinent today as it was when Steve first wrote it. IHA

32 Hair Authority Spring 2020

Wig Slippage Be Gone! What Inspires Wig Designer and Alopecia Advocate Amy Gibson To Keep Taking Risks

“The biggest fear for many of the millions of women wearing wigs today is that their wig will ‘fly off and everyone will suddenly know their secret!” I had Alopecia at a time when there was very little information about wigs and having to learn everything about them on my own especially in the earlier days while starring on television and having to keep my hair loss a secret, was nothing short of an adventure …. It’s easier now: there is more information. But I’m still constantly frustrated trying to find things to make my ‘own’ wig wearing experience easier and more comfortable that just don’t exist in the marketplace. SO, I continue to search for ways to make them. I figure if they work for me, then I know they will work for other women in need. After not swimming for 17 years because I hated the unsexy

look of a bathing cap on a bald head, I finally said, “Enough - I want to have a normal life! I will create a Swim Wig”. Hence, The First Women’s Swim Wig w/Cyberhair was born. (Of course, I wish creating that product and bringing it to market had been that easy… but as with all new controversial products, it was quite a journey). The ResQ Bag®, the First Wig Carryall with 12 crucial beauty accessories was born out of a very emotional experience at the gym after I had first lost my hair. The ResQ Bag® solves the need for discretion and gives the wig wearer everything they need at their fingertips in case of any wig emergency. And now… my newest baby; Wig SECURE™ was born out of pure frustration in being stuck with wearing double-stick wig tape all the time and wanting something different and more comfortable to keep my wig on and the frustration of not being able to find one. So as with everything I create, I decided to design one differently. The wig bands currently available in the market (especially worn by women with thinning or no hair) tend to move, hence as the day goes on so does their wig. Nothing is more upsetting than having to constantly put your wig back

Hair Authority Spring 2020 33 in place and praying no one saw it move! Wig SECURE™ is a revolutionary wig band that completely removes the need for clips or wig tape to keep a wig on. It’s made with a Patent Pending Silicone Grip Strip that successfully prevents Wig Slippage. Wig SECURE™ is also the 1st wig band that is ‘Reversible’ and made for women with and without hair. There are several wig bands on the market, but nothing that comes near the technology of this wig band. If a wig wearer is active or not, this is a comfortable lightweight band that can be worn all day, with any type of wig. Since most wigs are made for the masses, they are often a tad large. This Wig SECURE™ allows for their wig to instantly fit more securely without the need for alteration. It’s also excellent to prevent Scarf Slippage, which is another issue many

women have. I’ve had this idea in mind for many years and finally was able to bring it to life over the last 2 years. I made over a half dozen trips to China, failed with several prototypes and almost gave up before surrendering and finally having it come out right! We then spent months testing it before bringing it to market. I am now so excited to bring Wig SECURE™ to the huge wig market worldwide so more women can feel secure more easily. Currently, it’s being sold on one of the largest wig portals in the world, Wigs. com and of course through my company createdhair.com. And my latest ‘baby’ coming to market, Wig SECURE™ Crystal with a clear silk front is undetectable under any wig. I look forward to telling you more about that and its journey in a future article. Stay well and be safe, Amy.

IHA

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34 Hair Authority Spring 2020

Hair Care for Healthcare How the Coronavirus Impacts Your Hair Cleansing Routine By Zlata Faerman

I hope you’re staying healthy and safe during this difficult time. I wanted to share some news from a brand that’s doing their part to help: Pai-Shau, the tea-infused haircare brand is donating a portion of its proceeds to Bethenny Frankel’s BStrong Foundation to aid COVID-19/Coronavirus relief efforts. Pai-Shau is also donating cleansing shampoos to healthcare workers, since we know that coronavirus lives on the hair and should be washed daily (more on that below). “Wait, do I have to start washing my hair more now?”

If you’ve asked yourself that question during a recent 20-second hand-scrubbing stint at your sink, you’re not alone. Personal hygiene is one of our clearest bets for beating the coronavirus, which is leading many to wonder if the same hardcore washing routine implored for our hands needs apply to our hair. Here’s what we know right now about your hair’s potential involvement in the spread of COVID-19, along with some tips for how you can take extra care of your hair (and ultimately, yourself ) during these challenging times.

Can the Coronavirus Live on My Hair?

The short answer is yes. Or at the very least, probably. Scientists’ understanding of COVID-19 is evolving in real-time, so there isn’t a definitive ruling on how long the virus could stay

locked onto your locks or how common hair has been as a mechanism for its moving from one person to another. The CDC suggests the virus could stay viable for hours or days, depending on the type of surface. But because hair is more porous, the coronavirus shouldn’t be able to survive as long as it could on something smoother, like stainless steel. And because we don’t reach out and touch things with our hair quite as much as we do with our hands, it’s a significantly lower threat for coming in direct contact with the virus to begin with. Still, hair is a surface of some sort. And thanks to the “don’t touch your face” direction, we’re all pretty aware of how easy it is for us to make incidental contact with our head and hair.

Doctor Recommended: Daily Shampooing to Defend Against Coronavirus

Hair Authority Spring 2020 35 That’s why several doctors recently recommended to Today that washing your hair belongs on the list of best practices for beating COVID-19. “Using shampoo, there are surfactants — charged molecules that will bind to dirt, to oil, to bacteria, to viruses — and get them off or kill them,” explained Dr. Adam Friedman, the interim chair of dermatology at the George Washington School of Medicine and Health Sciences. “Washing hair will prevent whatever matter is on your hair from being maintained.” Dr. Saad Omer, director of the Yale Institute for Global Health, agrees. In that same Today article, he recommends people wash their hair daily during this coronavirus pandemic.

Tips for Taking Care of Your Hair During the COVID-19 Pandemic

Wait a minute - daily cleansing? If reading that made you shed a tear somewhere inside for fear that shampooing every day will wash away all the hard work you’ve put into your hair so far, we understand. Typically, most hair care experts recommend that you only wash your hair only a few times per week to retain the scalp’s natural oils and avoid the risk of drying it out. But these aren’t typical times. Fortunately, there are still ways to keep your hair in good condition while keeping it corona-free. Here are a couple quick tips to promote healthy hair growth that will leave hair soft, silky, and full of gorgeous shine, even during this time of duress.

DON’T: Wash your hair in scalding hot water.

This will result in dehydrated hair and increase frizz and static. It’s alright to begin by rinsing with warm water, which will open your hair’s cuticles and allow products to sink in and do their job. But before you rinse them out, you want to switch to colder water to seal those cuticles back up with all the benefits your products provide locked inside.

production.

DON’T: Lather in the shampoo on the ends of your hair.

This will only further dry out the ends. Instead, experts recommend starting your lather at the nape of your neck and working your way up to your hairline. To really get the most out of your cleanse, section your hair into parts and spend a few minutes scrubbing each section of your scalp.

DO: Consider adding an oil-free serum to the mix.

If you’re stepping up your shampooing frequency to be extra safe during the coronavirus pandemic, you might want to add in an additional product to help maintain moisture levels.

DON’T: Brush your hair immediately after the shower.

When you get out of the shower, your hair is extremely fragile and prone to breakage. The chances of doing more harm than good by brushing immediately will increase along with the number of times you’re cleansing each week.

Tea-Based Products Can Be Your Hair’s Best Friend During Coronavirus

From healing to cleansing to beautification, the power of tea has been known since antiquity. Today, steeped tea leaves are second only to water as the world’s most consumed beverage. Naturally occurring vitamins and antioxidants make tea leaves the perfect ingredient for beauty rituals, providing powerful purification and rejuvenation for hair, skin and scalp, courtesy of Mother Nature. That’s why at Pai-Shau, we pack our Signature Tea Complex into every single product to give you intense moisture, lasting protection and beautiful hair. All Pai-Shau products are cruelty free, vegan, color safe, keratin safe, gluten free, paraben free, sulfate free and phosphate free. Even the packaging is BPA free!

DO: Use a hydrating shampoo and conditioner.

You want to keep your hair hydrated and moisturized (yes, those are two different things) during this time of duress. Pai-Shau’s Replenishing Hair Cleanser and will not strip your hair of natural oils. Unlike other heavily based oily products that have large molecules too big to penetrate deep inside the hair, Pai-Shau ‘s Signature Tea Complex uses smaller molecules in its formula, so it’s able to provide deep cleansing power without disrupting any of your scalp’s natural oil IHA

36 Hair Authority Spring 2020

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