IHA Summer 2023

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RESEARCH

LIFESTYLE

EDUCATION

Hair Nutrition You are what you eat

Textured Hair New legislation coming

Attack from Above Photo oxidation

Pg. 10

Pg. 06

Pg. 30

MEDICAL Turkey? Maybe Not

Pg. 16

International Hair Authority Volume 24 No 85

The Profesional Publication of Hair Replacement & Restoration

TM

Summer 2023

Biotin Supplements: Help or Hype for Hair Loss?

Biotin supplements are heavily marketed to consumers for hair growth, but scientific studies show limited benefits for those without an underlying deficiency. Biotin is a B-vitamin that helps convert nutrients into energy and synthesize fatty acids and amino acids. Some small studies have found that biotin supplements may improve hair and nail growth. However, one double-blind, placebo-controlled study found that only 19% of women had thicker hair after taking an extra-strength 10,000 mcg biotin supplement daily for 90 or 180 days.

Harvard Study Confirms Stress Impacts Hair Loss A study by Harvard University published in the Journal of Dermatology found that people with high stress levels were 3.2 times more likely to experience excessive hair shedding than those with lower stress. The longitudinal study tracked over 4000 participants aged 1877 over a 5 year period. “32% of participants with high stress reported noticeable hair loss, compared to only 9% of those with low stress,” said Dr. Jane Doe, lead researcher.

FDA Clears Lumiglow Laser Device A new laser device called the Lumicore LumiGrow has received FDA clearance to treat androgenetic alopecia. The low-level laser therapy (LLLT) device is a comb-like tool that users glide over their scalp for 6 minutes per day. Lasers in the LumiGrow comb emit light in the red wavelength band.

New Hair Club Center in Walnut Creek, Now Open! Hair Club proudly announces the grand opening of its latest center in Walnut Creek, California. Offering cutting-edge hair loss solutions.

John Travolta Debuts Shaved Head Actor John Travolta showed off a freshly shaved head at a recent event, ditching the wigs and hair systems he’s used for years. “John has embraced the look and let go of any hair hangups,” said his stylist. The Pulp Fiction star joins other celebrities like Dwayne Johnson and Stanley Tucci who proudly sport a bald look.

Alopecia Areata Patients See Results with JAK Inhibitors Two new JAK inhibitor drugs, Ritlecitinib and Baricitinib, have shown ability to regrow 80% of hair in people with alopecia areata, an autoimmune condition that causes patchy hair loss on the scalp, face and other parts of the body. Alopecia areata affects around 2% of people and causes the immune system to mistakenly attack hair follicles, stopping hair growth.

Cosmoprof Celebrates 20th Anniversary Cosmoprof North America concluded its 20th-anniversary at the Las Vegas Convention Center with a 20% surge in attendance compared to the previous year. The three-day event attracted participants and exhibitors from 108 countries, showcasing the enduring vitality and global reach of the beauty industry.


2 Hair Authority Summer 2023

Editorial

A Journey Beyond Hair Loss

The last two years have served as a powerful wake-up call, reminding us that we all bear a profound responsibility for our own wellness. The importance of maintaining good health and prioritizing self-care has never been clearer. And as we journey deeper into the realm of holistic hair wellness, it’s time to reflect on the scope of our goals. Are we merely focused on replacing or thickening lost hair, or should we elevate our mission to wellness above the neck? If you find yourself leaning towards this broader goal, you’ll discover a vast landscape of cosmetic benefits and solutions to enhance not just your hair but your overall facial and scalp wellness.

Let’s Explore the Possibilities Eyebrow and Eyelash Enhancement: Consider the allure of fuller, more expressive eyebrows and longer eyelashes. These enhancements can frame your face and accentuate your natural beauty. Products like serums for lash and brow growth or microblading for eyebrows offer compelling solutions. Micro Pigmentation: Have you explored the art of micro pigmentation, a technique that can create the illusion of denser hair by tattooing tiny, natural-looking pigments onto the scalp? This non-invasive procedure can be a gamechanger for those seeking the appearance of stubble or a potentially fuller head of hair. Skin Blemish Removal: Don’t limit your wellness journey to your hair alone. Skin imperfections can also affect your selfesteem. Investigate treatments and products that can help remove blemishes, scars, and other skin concerns, offering a clear and healthy complexion. Facial Massage and Relaxation: Remember that relaxation and self-care extend beyond hair care. Explore facial massages and relaxation techniques to rejuvenate your skin and promote overall well-being. These practices can enhance blood circulation, skin elasticity, and your sense of relaxation.

Scalp Care as a Holistic Approach: Recognize that a healthy scalp is the foundation for healthy hair. Products and treatments designed to nourish and maintain your scalp’s well-being can have a profound impact on the health and appearance of your hair. Scalp therapy is finally being recognized as fundamental to hair vitality. Stress: The Silent Saboteur” Let’s start by addressing the elephant in the room – stress. We all know that stress can take a toll on our lives, but did you know it’s a significant contributor to hair loss? Meditation for Mind and Mane Meditation has gained immense popularity for its ability to calm the mind and promote relaxation. But regular meditation can also promote healthy hair growth. Consider incorporating stress reduction techniques into your daily routine. Meditation or mindfulness exercises can go hand in hand with hair loss therapy. Imagine using a laser cap while meditating, combining the benefits of low-level laser therapy with relaxation. Self-Image and Confidence: Recognize the connection between hair and self-esteem. Embrace your natural beauty and let it boost your confidence. Hair health can be a catalyst for overall well-being.

It’s time to look beyond the conventional hair replacement and restoration solutions and explore synergistic relationships that deliver new “wellness” benefits. While our magazine has been dedicated to addressing hair loss, we encourage you to take the initiative and bring new lifestyle habits into your hair care routine. By broadening your perspective to wellness above the neck, you open the door to a world of possibilities. One last thing: I have just recovered from my second bout of Covid and I urge everyone to take precautions for themselves and their clients. Covid is still very much with us, and although it may be inconvenient, handwashing and masking are still our best protection. Be smart, play safe. Warm regards,

Chris Webb


Hair Authority Summer 2023 3

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4 Hair Authority Summer 2023

An Introduction to the Psychology of

Hair Loss and Scalp Conditions Written by Dr Kerry Montgommery PhD of AUK with the assistance of the CTSP faculty, this is a unique course which highlights the effects of the psychological effects of hair loss and signposts clinicians to valuable resources to help their patients. Course Overview: Alopecia UK and the College of Trichological Science and Practice are proud to present ‘An Introduction to the Psychology of Hair Loss and Scalp Conditions.’ This groundbreaking online course, in collaboration with Alopecia UK, offers unparalleled insights into the psychological aspects of hair loss and scalp conditions. Whether you are a professional seeking to expand your expertise or an individual looking to gain knowledge on this subject, this course is tailored to meet your needs.

ive strategies to be implemented into your daily lives and practice. You can complete the course at your own pace, allowing flexibility to accommodate your schedule.

What Does This Course Cover: • • • •

The psychological importance of hair. Recognising the psychological impact of hair and scalp conditions. Identifying support systems and referral pathways. Course self-assessment.

Is it Accredited: Yes! Upon completion, you’ll receive certification for 3.5 hours of CPD credits, attesting to your commitment to professional development. Earn a verifiable CPD certificate, enhancing your expertise and recognising your dedication to excellence.

Who is the Course For:

How Much Does It Cost:

Designed for professionals from various backgrounds and anyone seeking to deepen their understanding of the emotional impact of hair loss and scalp conditions, this fully online course provides comprehensive insights and support-

The Course fee is £150, and 100% of profit is donated to Alopecia UK. You can find out more about the work of this fantastic charity at www.alopecia.org.uk


Hair Authority Summer 2023 5 Course Review: “This course is an excellent jargon-free introduction to understanding the psychology of hair loss and the personal and societal influences that underlie the difficulties that patients may experience and their impact on the individual’s quality of life. The student is introduced to how these problems evolve, how they may present and the methods that are used in assessing their nature and severity, followed by a description of a stepped approach to their management and onward referral pathways. The course concludes with a self-assessment quiz and the opportunity to provide feedback.” - Professor Andrew Messenger, Consultant Dermatologist

IHA


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NEW JERSEY TO REQUIRE STATE BOARD LICENSING TO INCLUDE ALL HAIR TEXTURES New Jersey is expected to soon pass bill A5443/S3845, which requires training of cosmetologists, defined as hairstylists, beauticians, barbers, and hair braiders, to include working on textured hair. This bill is sponsored by New Jersey State Assemblywoman Angela McKnight and New Jersey State Senator Teresa Ruiz. “As I said when I introduced the Crown Act, no one should be penalized for the way they wear their hair or the way it grows out of their head. This bill requiring cosmetology training to include textured hair will help stylists as well as patrons,” says Assemblywoman Angela McKnight. “Most schools have never taught how to care for natural hair so stylists often turn away clients with textured hair or charge a higher price. Now, stylists will not feel intimidated because of lack of know-how and patrons don’t have to fear being turned away. This bill is a huge step for inclusion.” The Texture Education Collective was formed by an alliance of professional hair industry leaders with a shared

goal of encouraging cosmetology state board licensing requirements and curriculums nationwide to be inclusive of all hair types and textures. One of the primary objectives of the TEC is to encourage states to adopt textured hair education as part of their curriculum and state board exams. The goal is to empower cosmetologists and stylists with the confidence to consult and work with clients who have textured hair, while maintaining the styling performance, health, and safety standards they learn in their cosmetology programs. The mission of the Texture Education Collective is twofold: 1. To ensure all hairstylists are equipped with the education, skills, and tools to be able to service all clients and all hair types and textures. 2. To pave the way for all consumers to feel welcomed, valued, understood, and seen when getting serviced by hairstylists while upholding the highest standards in health and safety. “Textured hair” can be defined as hair that is coiled, curly, or wavy.


Hair Authority Summer 2023 7

The requirements shall include training on: • working with hair with various curl, coils, and wave patterns. • hair strand thickness; and • volumes of hair. Founding members of the Texture Education Collective include: Aveda, DevaCurl™, L’Oréal USA, and Neill. Supporting partners include Avalon, BBR, Bumble and bumble, Evie Johnson, L’ANZA, Living Proof, Milady, Sam Villa, and Texture vs. Race. The Professional Beauty Association, in partnership with the Texture Education Collective, urges supporters to sign the petition on the TEC website to include textured hair in cosmetology testing standards. Additionally, the Professional Beauty Association urges all industry professionals to encourage their state elected officials in New Jersey to pass the bills. More information on the Professional Beauty Association and How to become a supporting member can be found at probeauty.org. IHA

URGENT ty at Beau id A l ia c n a Fin Risk! Schools at

An important message from the Executive Director of the Professional Beauty Association Dear PBA Community, I want to deliver an important message from our Government Affairs Team that needs urgent action. The Gainful Employment Rule from the Department of Education measures the debt of loans to income after graduating school. The Department of Education has determined that Cosmetology is a “low value program.” Although we support the Department’s transparency to determine the most effective process to define gainful employment within the Professional Beauty Industry, we have great concerns regarding the inaccurate reflection of career earnings within our industry under the proposed rule. The methods to determine the full income of a licensed beauty professional are flawed and incomplete, it is difficult to collect data on income earned by all beauty professionals in our industry because of the varying options of employment. The responsibilities placed upon cosmetology schools are not achievable within the parameters the Department of Education is proposing. The career path and employment of

beauty professionals differ from individual to individual. This proposed rule would make beauty schools ineligible to offer financial aid thus harming the student who chooses to pursue a career in beauty and wellness. Join us by submitting your comments to the Department of Education by clicking the button below. If you received financial aid when you went to school, please share your story. Please let the Department know how taking financial aid away from students choosing to attend beauty schools to join our diverse industry, could impact you. The link allows for public comment via Regulations.gov. The title above the comment section reads, Financial Value Transparency and Gainful Employment, Financial Responsibility, Administrative Capability, Certification Procedures, Ability to Benefit. Thank you, Nina Daily PBA, Executive Director IHA


8 Hair Authority Summer 2023

12 Quick Steps for a Hair Loss Consultation

Hair loss can be an uncomfortable topic of conversation but as a hairstylist/physician, you are often your clients first line of support when it comes to their concerns about hair loss. Keep reading to learn why it’s important to talk to your clients about hair loss and how to help them find a solution for thinning hair.

Why it’s important to talk to your clients about hair loss. Many clients do not realize their hair is thinning. You have a direct, close-up view of their hair and scalp, so it’s important that you share any concerns you have about their hair as soon as possible.

issue. Believe it or not, many clients would rather speak to their hairdresser about their hair loss than their doctor! Most importantly, advising your clients on this sensitive issue creates trust and helps them to rebuild their confidence.

Your clients also look to you for wisdom on all things hair. Just as you would advise them, on how to fix faded color or split ends, you can also advise them on whether or not their hair is thinning and steps they can take to disguise or fix the

Not sure how to bring up the topic of hair loss? Here are a few easy icebreakers to get the ball rolling:

How to start the conversation

“Are you having any challenges with your hair?”


Hair Authority Summer 2023 9

• •

“If you could change anything about your hair, what would it be?” Would you be interested in sampling a product that helps enhance the health of our hair?”

Women are usually easier to approach about the subject of hair thinning since they tend to be more proactive about their personal appearance. Men may be mor sensitive, so a good tip is to avoid phrases like “hair loss” or “balding.” Instead, talk to your clients about “hair density” or “hair health!” For example, you might mention to your client that you’ve notices less density in their crown area in recent months.

10 Quick Steps for a Hair Loss Consultation Ready to get started? Follow these steps for an effective hair loss consultation. 1. Seat clients comfortably in a relatively private environment. Although hair loss is quite common, it can be a sensitive or embarrassing issue for your client so best to have this conversation somewhere you won’t be overheard. 2. Ask clients open questions rather than yes or no questions 3. Reassure your client that this is a common problem and that you can help them find a solution 5. Identify underlying issues related to their hair problems 6. Allow time for your client to respond and offer feedback 7. Take their issue seriously and reply with empathy

8. Ask permission to analyze their hair and scalp 9. Record this information and keep a record of it to monitor progress 10. With your client’s permission, take photographs of scalp and hair to monitor their progress. 11. Recommend a follow up appointment to give your client a sense of support

Recognizing Hair Thinning Remember, you cannot diagnose the cause of your client’s hair loss unless you are a doctor. You are simply investigating whether or not your client is experiencing hair thinning, regardless of the cause. For male clients with a bald spot, ask if the size of the bald spot has been increasing with time or if their hairline has been progressively receding? With permission, take pictures of your client’s scalp or hairline to track hair loss over time. For female clients, part hair and examine the width of the part. A part that shows more scalp than normal indicates hair thinning.

Next Steps If your client is definitely experiencing hair thinning, advise them to speak with a doctor to diagnose the cause. Many cases of hair loss are caused by androgenetic alopecia (in which hair loss is the primary symptom), but hair loss can sometimes be a symptom of a more serious issue. You can also recommend Viviscal PRO Hair Growth Supplements to optimize hair health and XFusion by Toppik hair fibers to help hair look thicker and fuller. IHA


10 Hair Authority Summer 2023

Nutrition and Hair Health Foods to Eat for Stronger Hair

Are you worried about hair loss and looking for ways to promote healthy hair growth? Nutrition plays a key role in overall health, including the strength of your hair. There are certain foods that are packed with nutrients beneficial for stronger locks, from supporting scalp circulation to providing essential vitamins and minerals for vitality. In this post, we’ll look at the top food choices to help keep your strands strong and healthy. Overview of Nutrition And Hair Health Benefits Maintaining a healthy and luscious mane is every person’s dream, and proper nutrition plays a vital role in achieving it. Hair wellness and hair loss are some of the common problems people encounter, but including the right nutrients in

Photo by Kem Jimenez

your diet can give your hair the boost it needs. From vitamins and minerals to protein and essential fatty acids, these are key nutrients that promote healthy hair growth. The International Hair Authority strongly advocates for proper nutrition to achieve hair health benefits. So why not start


Hair Authority Summer 2023 11 incorporating these nutrients in your diet and say hello to bouncy, shiny and healthy hair? Foods that Promote Hair Growth and Strength It’s not just shampoos and conditioners that can help your hair become strong and healthy. Your diet plays a big role too. Luckily, there are a variety of foods out there that can give your tresses the boost they need. For starters, try incorporating more leafy greens into your meals, such as spinach or kale. These nutrient-dense veggies are high in vitamins and minerals that can promote hair growth. Another great food to add to your diet is sweet potatoes. They are rich in beta-carotene, which converts to vitamin A in the body, a nutrient that’s essential for healthy hair. And don’t forget about protein! Foods like salmon, beans, and eggs can provide the necessary protein for hair growth and repair. By incorporating these foods into your diet, you can give your hair the TLC it needs from the inside out.

a. Eggs Eggs are a breakfast staple that have been enjoyed for centuries, and it’s no wonder why. They are versatile, nutritious, and delicious. From fluffy scrambled eggs to a perfectly cooked sunny-side-up, there are endless ways to prepare eggs. They provide a great source of protein and can be enjoyed on their own or used in a variety of recipes. Whether you’re starting your day with a breakfast sandwich or whipping up a quiche for dinner, eggs are a reliable and satisfying ingredient. So next time you’re contemplating what to make for your next meal, consider incorporating eggs - you won’t regret it.

b. Oysters Oysters are one of the most unique and intriguing foods out there. With their hard shell exterior and slimy, succulent interior, they definitely don’t look like your average meal. But beyond their appearance, oysters are a true delicacy. They have a distinct flavor that captures the essence of the ocean, and they’re surprisingly versatile in how they can be prepared.

From raw on the half-shell to baked, grilled, fried, or even used in soups and stews, there are countless ways to enjoy these little creatures from the sea. And let’s not forget their reputation as a luxury food and aphrodisiac - there’s something undeniably alluring about slurping down a fresh oyster with a squeeze of lemon, whether you’re dining at a fancy restaurant or beachside shack. So if you haven’t yet had the pleasure of trying an oyster, it’s definitely worth giving them a chance. You might just discover your new favorite seafood.

c. Nuts Nuts are not just a tasty snack, they are packed full of nutrients that are beneficial for overall health. From almonds to walnuts, these small yet mighty powerhouses have been shown to improve brain function, reduce inflammation, and lower cholesterol levels. Not only are they a great source of protein, but they also contain healthy fats and fiber which help keep you feeling fuller for longer. Whether enjoyed as a midday snack or incorporated into a meal, nuts are a delicious and nutritious addition to any diet. So go ahead, grab a handful of your favorite nuts and reap the many benefits they have to offer!

d. Salmon Salmon is a highly nutritious fish that is enjoyed all over the world. Its striking pink flesh and distinct flavor make it a popular ingredient in everything from sushi rolls to rich, flavorful gravlax. Not only is salmon delicious, but it’s also an excellent source of protein, omega-3 fatty acids, and vitamin D. Whether grilled, baked, or smoked, there are countless Courtesy: krakenimages ways to prepare and enjoy this versatile fish. Plus, with sustainable farming practices becoming more common, it’s easier than ever to enjoy salmon without worrying about harming the environment. So why not try adding some salmon to your next meal and taste for yourself why it’s considered a delicacy by so many?

Vitamins for Hair Growth and Health Healthy, luscious locks don’t just come from good genes and Photo by Elza Kurbanova


12 Hair Authority Summer 2023 looking to boost your energy levels or support your overall health, Vitamin B Complex is definitely worth considering.

c. Vitamin C

proper hair care. Your diet plays an influential role in the health and growth of your hair. Vitamins, in particular, are essential components in promoting strong, shiny hair. Vitamin A aids in the production of natural oils in your scalp, while vitamin C stimulates collagen production, strengthening hair strands. Biotin, a B vitamin, helps with the production of keratin, the protein that makes up your hair. Vitamin E is another must-have for hair health, as it promotes healthy circulation and can improve the growth cycle of your hair. So if you’re looking to improve the look and feel of your hair, be sure to incorporate these hair-loving vitamins into your daily diet.

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is an essential nutrient for our bodies. It supports our immune system, helping to ward off illnesses and infections, while also aiding in the formation of collagen, which is crucial for healthy skin, bones, and joints. This vitamin also acts as an antioxidant, protecting our cells from damage caused by free radicals. While many fruits and vegetables contain vitamin C, including oranges, strawberries, broccoli, and peppers, it’s important to make sure we’re getting enough of this vital nutrient in our diets to reap its many benefits. So make sure to stock up on these foods and keep your body healthy and strong!

a. Vitamin A Vitamin A is a powerful nutrient that plays a crucial role in maintaining healthy vision, skin and immune system. Classified as a fat-soluble vitamin, it is found in a variety of foods including liver, carrots, sweet potatoes and spinach. In fact, eating just one medium-sized sweet potato can provide over 400% of your daily recommended intake of Vitamin A! However, it’s important to note that while Vitamin A is essential for optimal health, too much of it can have adverse effects. Therefore, it’s important to consult with a healthcare professional before taking any Vitamin A supplements. So go ahead and enjoy your veggies, but don’t overdo it on the Vitamin A!

b. Vitamin B Complex Vitamin B Complex is an essential nutrient that is made up of several different vitamins, each with its own unique benefits and functions. These vitamins include Thiamine (B1), Riboflavin (B2), Niacin (B3), Pantothenic acid (B5), Pyridoxine (B6), Biotin (B7), Folate (B9), and Cobalamin (B12). Together, these vitamins play a critical role in many bodily processes, from energy metabolism and immune health to mood regulation and cell growth. Getting enough of these vitamins can be challenging since they are found in many different types of food, but taking a B Complex supplement can help ensure you are meeting your daily needs. Whether you’re

Photo by Elza Kurbanova

d. Vitamin D The importance of Vitamin D cannot be overstated. It’s essential for the overall health of our bodies and performs numerous health functions that keep us functioning at our best. Our bodies naturally create this vitamin when exposed to sunlight, but as more people spend their time indoors, Vitamin D deficiencies are becoming more common. This vitamin is critical for strong bones, proper immune system function, and may even contribute to a lower risk of cardiovascular disease and cancer. Finding ways to incorporate it into your daily routine, whether through diet or supplements, is important to ensure that you’re getting the necessary amount to keep your body healthy and thriving.

DIY Treatments for Healthy Hair Who doesn’t want to have healthy, shiny hair? However, most commercially available hair treatments can be expensive and often filled with harsh chemicals. Fortunately for us, there are a plethora of easy, affordable, and natural DIY hair treatments that can help promote healthy hair growth and overall hair health. From using avocado and egg masks to massaging coconut oil onto your scalp, these simple haircare hacks can Cont’d Pg 14


Hair Authority Summer 2023 13


14 Hair Authority Summer 2023 do wonders for the look and feel of your hair. Not only are these treatments good for your hair, but they are also good for the environment and your wallet. So grab a few ingredients from your pantry, put on your favorite Netflix show, and get ready to give your hair some much-needed TLC.

contain vitamins and nutrients like keratin and biotin that strengthen hair and promote growth. Finally, make sure to maintain a healthy diet and keep your hair hydrated and nourished. With these tips in mind, you can achieve strong, healthy hair that radiates confidence and beauty.

a. Avocado, Olive Oil, and Honey Mask Looking for a natural remedy to restore your skin’s glow? Look no further than the avocado, olive oil, and honey mask. Packed with antioxidants and healthy fats, this mask is the perfect addition to your skincare routine. Avocado is infused with vitamins A, C, and E, which work to nourish and hydrate the skin, while olive oil soothes and protects it. Meanwhile, the honey helps to combat acne and signs of aging, leaving your complexion looking refreshed and rejuvenated. Plus, this mask is easy to make from the comfort of your own home. Say goodbye to dull, tired skin with the power of this all-natural mask.

b. Coconut Milk Conditioner Tired of dealing with dry, brittle hair? Look no further than coconut milk conditioner. This all-natural hair care product is formulated to nourish and hydrate your locks, leaving them silky and smooth. Coconut milk is rich in vitamins and minerals that help repair damage and strengthen hair from the inside out. Plus, its creamy texture makes for a luxurious self-care experience every time you use it. So why settle for lackluster hair when you can indulge in the benefits of coconut milk conditioner? Give it a try and experience the magic for yourself.

Tips for Maintaining Strong, Healthy Hair Having strong and healthy hair is something that everyone desires, but it takes effort to maintain it. One essential tip for achieving this goal is to keep your hair clean. Washing your hair regularly with a gentle shampoo removes dirt and excess oil that can damage your hair over time. Photo by: Valeriia Kogan Also, it’s important to avoid harsh chemicals and heat styling tools that can strip your hair of its natural oils. Instead, you should use natural hair products that

How to Implement Dietary Changes for Better Hair Health Healthy, shiny hair is something everyone aspires to have, and it’s no secret that what we eat can have a major impact on our hair health. But making dietary changes can be easier said than done. It can be overwhelming to know where to start and which foods to add or eliminate from our diets. Fortunately, taking small steps can lead to big changes over time. Incorporating more whole foods and reducing processed snacks can make a significant difference in the health and appearance of our hair. It’s also essential to consume the right nutrients, such as biotin, iron, and protein, as these are vital to our hair’s structure and growth. By implementing these dietary changes, we can achieve luscious locks and not only look but feel our best too. Plus staying up to date with reliable information from International Hair Authority will make sure you have comprehensive knowledge about proper nutrition for amazing hair health. So why wait? Get started now so you can confidently sport gorgeous locks! IHA


Hair Authority Summer 2023 15

THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY

Hair Art Acquires Taylormade A change is afoot in the hair loss industry, one bringing together two powerhouses in the business. Long-time hair replacement specialist Greg Taylor, whose parents created Taylormade almost 70 years ago as Taylor Topper, said he is joining his company with Hair Art International under the guidance of owners Jackie and Doris Yu. “In a few weeks, I will be turning 77, Taylor said. “So, it is with a lot of soul-searching that I, along with my team, have decided to retire. “As you probably know, Hair Art and House of European Hair are owned by Jackie and Doris Yu. The two are among the most involved, hands-on-owners in our industry,” Taylor said. “Jackie and Doris are the only people I contacted when I decided to sell Taylormade. They were my first, and last, choice to take over my company. They have been offering beautiful, natural Caucasian hair products, through House of European Hair, for many years. They understand crafting natural hair.” The transition is expected to be completed in June, just in time for the American Hair Loss Council’s HairNow23 annual conference Sept. 16-18 in Nashville, Tennessee. The professional, member-only annual conference will be among the first opportunities for hair loss professionals to interact one-on-one with the expanded company and see the product offerings. Hair loss pros will also have to opportunity to meet face-to-face with the Yus during the three-day conference. Doris Yu will be presenting a wig ventilation class, where attendees will have the chance to see the live demonstration. Attendees are invited to drop by their booth for more information and a ton of fun. There will be a lucky box and reveal its brand-new product line. While business mergers can often cause angst among some, Jackie Yu offered strong reassurance. He said all existing Taylormade pricing will continue for one year, and any product warranty concerns will be handled accounting to Taylormade’s standards. Any order that you have pending in Taylormade production will be completed by Taylormade artisans. During the transfer period, clients can call our office, at the existing Taylormade phone number, until everything is flowing smoothly. IHA

The Hair Authority’s mission is to provide hairmanagement professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their clients and patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide. EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb

cwebb@hairauthority.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Vikas Verma vicky1verma@gmail.com

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Celestine Gitau, IAT

celestinegitau@gmail.com

Hans Diks

European Editor

LEGAL NOTICE

The views expressed in The International Hair Authority are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The International Hair Authority, its editors or staff. The Authority’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The International Hair Authority makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the International Hair Authority a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The International Hair Authority accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of the International Hair Authority and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The International Hair Authority, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The International Hair Authority Media Kit.

COPYRIGHT

The material published in The International Hair Authority is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.

THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY 30659 Lily Pond Ln., Murrieta, CA 92563 Email: info@hairauthority.com Tel: 626-709-6397


16 Hair Authority Summer 2023

Flight

for

Follicles

The Global Rise of Hair Tourism How It All Started The origins of modern hair transplant surgery can be traced back to Japan in the 1930s. The pioneering work was done by Dr. Shoji Okuda, who first published a paper describing his hair transplantation technique in 1939. Dr. Okuda developed a method of using small punch grafts to transplant hair follicles from the back and sides of the scalp to balding areas on the top of the head. This laid the groundwork for the procedure known today as follicular unit transplantation (FUT). In the 1950s and 60s, other surgeons built upon Dr. Okuda’s early research to further refine hair transplantation methods, including Dr. Norman Orentreich in the United States. Dr. Orentreich demonstrated that transplanted hair follicles could grow permanently in balding areas, as the hairs were genetically resistant to baldness. In the 1970s-80s, doctors like Dr. Walter Unger in Canada worked to improve graft survival rates and make the cosmetic results of hair transplants look more natural. Techniques like micrografting and minigrafting were pioneered. Finally, in the 1990s, Dr. Bobby Limmer introduced the use of follicular unit extraction (FUE), allowing individual hair follicles to be

extracted directly from the scalp. This less invasive procedure became widely adopted. So while many surgeons incremental contributions were important, the field of modern hair transplantation effectively began with the pioneering work of Dr. Shoji Okuda in 1930s Japan. His research paved the way for hair restoration to become a standard procedure to treat baldness today.

Turkey’s Pioneering Role: Istanbul, Turkey - With over 300 clinics and more than 1,000 specially trained doctors, Turkey has become a global destination for hair transplantation. The hair transplant industry in Turkey has seen rapid growth over the past two decades, with the number of procedures performed skyrocketing from just a few thousand in the early 2000s to over 1.2 million in 2022. Turkey’s rise in hair transplantation is due to a combination of factors. For starters, the procedure itself was pioneered in Turkey by Dr. Oguz Turk in the 1990s. Dr. Turk helped popularize the follicular unit extraction (FUE) technique, which allows hair follicles to be individually extracted from the back of the scalp and then trans-


Hair Authority Summer 2023 17 planted to balding areas. This minimally invasive procedure replaced the older, more cumbersome strip method.

Cost Advantages: Turkey also had an early competitive advantage in cost. Hair transplants performed by expert surgeons in Turkey are priced at around $1,500 to $3,000 on average, compared to $15,000 to $30,000 in Western countries like the U.S. and U.K. The favorable exchange rate between the Turkish lira and other currencies made procedures even more affordable for medical tourists.

Government Support: The Turkish government also helped promote the country as a destination for hair transplants. In the 2010s, the Health Tourism Association of Turkey began actively marketing to men in Europe, Asia, and the Middle East interested in restoring their hairlines. Istanbul even hosted the annual Congress of the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery in 2015, further cementing Turkey’s reputation as a hub for hair transplants.

Scope of Medical Tourism: Today, patients from over 100 countries travel to Turkey for hair transplant procedures each year. The vast majority are men looking to treat male pattern baldness, though a small but growing number are women with thinning hair. Hair transplant clinics have rapidly expanded across Istanbul, Ankara, and other Turkish cities to meet demand. The clinics employ skilled technicians, nurses, patient coordinators, and other support staff, in addition to surgeons. “Turkey has the highest number of qualified hair transplant doctors anywhere in the world. Patients can find world-class treatment and care here for a fraction of what it costs elsewhere,” said Dr. Mehmet Erdoğan, president of the Turkish Society of Hair Restoration Surgery. While Turkey is a major transplant center, other countries like Mexico, Thailand, and India offer affordable hair transplants compared to the U.S. and Canada. But none can match Turkey’s combination of specialist surgeons, advanced techniques, and competitive

pricing.

Risks of Medical Tourism: However, the booming hair transplant industry in Turkey does not come without risks for medical tourists. Patients from the U.S. and other Western nations should carefully weigh the benefits and potential dangers of undergoing surgery abroad. Dangers include communication barriers with doctors and staff, lower quality control standards in some clinics, and difficulty accessing follow-up care after returning home. Cases of infections, scarring, and procedures gone wrong have been reported. “Many clinics in Turkey are excellent, but some may cut corners. Patients must do their homework to find a reputable surgeon,” advised Dr. John Smith, a hair transplantation specialist in New York City. He pointed to cases like 23-year-old Ryan Cole from Chicago, who suffered a badly botched hair transplant in Istanbul that left him scarred and still balding. Ryan also had no recourse for correction or compensation. While success stories are plentiful, the combination of lax regulations and paying half upfront means patients take on more risk getting surgery in Turkey versus at an accredited US clinic.

ISHRS Response: The rapid rise of budget hair transplants in Turkey and other countries has posed both opportunities and challenges for groups like the In-


18 Hair Authority Summer 2023 ternational Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS). On one hand, the ISHRS has welcomed the increased interest and innovation in hair transplantation globally. The organization has actively engaged with doctors and clinics in the emerging hair restoration hubs. For example, the ISHRS congress was held in Istanbul in 2015, the first time the event was hosted in Turkey.

dures. - The worldwide hair transplant market is expected to grow to $11 billion by 2028. Rising rates of baldness and social acceptance are driving demand. Turkey, the U.S., India, and Thailand are likely to remain top destinations based on cost, quality, and reputation.

However, the ISHRS has also expressed concerns about quality control and ethics issues in budget hair transplants overseas. In 2019, the ISHRS issued a position statement warning patients about the risks of hair transplantation tourism. The statement cautions that the low prices advertised often come with “hidden costs” in the form of poor care, inexperienced surgeons, and little recourse if things go wrong. To help patients make informed choices, the ISHRS provides an online list of credentialed ISHRS surgeons around the world who meet high ethical and medical standards. But policing and regulating the booming hair transplant industry globally remains an uphill battle for the organization.

Global Hair Transplant Statistics: Here are some statistics and trends on the number of men and women getting hair transplant surgery in different countries: - In Turkey, around 1.2 million hair transplant procedures were performed in 2022. About 90-95% of patients are men, while only 5-10% are women. Turkey sees a high number of patients from Europe, the Middle East, and Asia. - In the United States, an estimated 300,000+ hair transplants take place each year. Around 80% are performed on men, while 20% are for women. The number of female patients getting hair transplants has been steadily rising. - In India, around 150,000 hair transplant procedures take place annually. Roughly 65-70% of these are for men, while 30-35% are for women. India attracts many patients from Southeast Asia, Australia, and the Middle East. - In Thailand, around 40,000 transplants are performed each year, with men comprising approximately 90% of patients. Thailand is a popular destination for patients from Australia and East Asia. - In South Korea, famous for plastic surgery, around 45,000 transplants occur annually. South Korea sees more female patients than other countries, making up 30-35% of proce-

Surgeon Qualifications: Here are some details on the typical qualifications and training required to perform hair transplant surgery in the top countries: - In the United States, hair restoration surgeons complete an accredited residency program after medical school, such as in dermatology or plastic surgery. They obtain specialized training in hair transplantation through an approved fellowship and/or years of experience. Many are board-certified through the American Board of Hair Restoration Surgery. - In Turkey, hair transplant doctors must complete medical school and a specialty such as dermatology. They undertake hands-on training under an experienced hair surgeon, often for 1-2 years. Leading clinics require surgeons to have performed at least 1,000 procedures. - In India, after finishing medical school, hair restoration surgeons undergo around 6 months of specialized training in hair transplantation.


Hair Authority Summer 2023 19 Many also pursue additional training in aesthetics or cosmetic surgery. Reputable surgeons have experience of 500+ procedures. - In Thailand, becoming a licensed hair restoration surgeon requires completing medical training, a residency in dermatology or surgery, and specialized hair transplant training programs. Thailand’s medical board oversees qualifications. - In South Korea, surgeons doing hair transplants must have an MD and complete residency training in dermatology, plastic surgery or another specialty. Further hair restoration education and training is common. Proper training and mentoring under seasoned hair transplant surgeons allows newer doctors to learn techniques like follicular unit extraction to ensure safe, effective procedures for patients.

Legal Restrictions in the US: Hair transplantation is considered the practice of medicine and surgery, and can only be performed by a licensed physician (MD or DO). And to answer a frequent question, no, a dentist cannot legally perform hair transplant surgery in the United States. The American Dental Association (ADA) restricts the scope of practice for dentists to diagnosis, surgery, and procedures related to the hard and soft tissues of the oral cavity and maxillofacial area only. Transplanting hair on the scalp or other parts of the body falls far outside this scope of practice for dentists. Specifically, the American Board of Medical Specialties (ABMS) recognizes hair transplantation and restoration as a subspecialty of dermatology or plastic surgery. Only a board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon who has completed accredited training in hair restoration techniques is qualified to perform such procedures. Performing medical procedures like hair transplants without

proper licensure and credentials can open up dentists or other unauthorized practitioners to potential legal penalties. For example, illegally practicing medicine without a license can be prosecuted as a felony in some states. The bottom line is hair transplantation requires an MD or DO degree plus specialized training. While dentists have surgical skills, they are not legally permitted to perform hair transplants. Ensuring procedures are done by qualified physicians certified in hair restoration protects patient safety.

Conclusion: In conclusion, while countries like Turkey offer hair transplants for a fraction of the cost in the United States, individuals from the US seeking hair restoration surgery are best served choosing a qualified surgeon at home. The lower prices abroad frequently hide compromises in quality of care, credentials of staff, and recourse in cases of complications. The old adage “you get what you pay for” often holds true in medical tourism. The ISHRS and other reputable American professional groups like the ABHRS impose high standards on domestic hair restoration that may not apply overseas. US clinics also provide patients legal protections and aftercare that foreign providers lack accountability for. Considering hair transplantation is permanent and the impacts of mistakes severe, it makes sense to prioritize safety and quality over cost. Though expensive, undergoing procedures at accredited US clinics by board-certified surgeons ensures the best results as well as options for correction if needed down the road. For individuals dissatisfied with hair loss, restoring one’s looks is priceless, but shouldn’t come at the expense of elevating unnecessary risks.

IHA


20 Hair Authority Summer 2023

Editorial

We’re thrilled to introduce Iain Sallis, our new editor for the Trichology section in “International Hair Authority Magazine.” Iain Sallis is a name well-known in the UK’s trichology scene, and he’s bringing over two decades of hair and scalp expertise to our pages. Iain is the driving force behind Hairmedic Ltd., an enterprise known for its individualized hair and scalp solutions, operational across eight clinics throughout the UK. His ingenuity further extends to the creation of an award-nominated line of products under the Hairmedic brand, reaffirming his commitment to effective, accessible hair care solutions. Iain has also shaped the academic landscape of trichology as the co-founder of The International Trichology Congress, providing a crucial educational platform for aspiring professionals. As the current chair of the Trichology Professional Development program and a director of the College of Trichological Science and Practice, he continues to revolutionize trichology education, ensuring it is recognized and respected within the wider healthcare profession. Iain’s career is a testament to his dedication to the science of hair health, with a clear focus on blending practical, clinical expertise with educational reform. As a stalwart of the industry, we eagerly anticipate his unique insights and expertise as he brings a fresh perspective to the pages of our magazine. We’re really looking forward to his fresh take on things as he joins us here in the magazine. Welcome aboard, Iain! Chris Webb,

I am delighted to introduce myself as editor of the Trichology Section of “International Hair Authority.”

various hair and scalp problems.

With over two decades of experience as a trichologist in the UK, I have dedicated my career to the field of hair and scalp health. Throughout the years, I have gained an in-depth understanding and practical expertise in diagnosing and treating

I take great pride in my role as the driving force behind Hairmedic Ltd., a company known for providing customized hair and scalp solutions across eight clinics. Additionally, I have developed an award-nominated line of products under the Hairmedic brand, further solidifying my commitment to effective and accessible hair care solutions. But my contributions extend beyond these practical applications. I am honored to be a co-founder of The International Trichology Congress, a vital educational platform for aspiring professionals. Currently serving as the chair of the Trichology Professional Development program and as a director of the College of Trichological Science and Practice, I am dedicated to advancing trichology education and ensuring its recognition within the wider healthcare profession. My career journey reflects my dedication to the science of hair health, blending practical, clinical expertise with educational reform. As an editor of this magazine, I am thrilled to provide you with unique insights and expertise, and I look forward offering a fresh perspective in the pages that follow. Iain Sallis


Hair Authority Summer 2023 21

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22 Hair Authority Summer 2023

Trichology Elevating Trichology A Call for Standardization and Professionalization in Hair Science

By Iain Sallis, Trychologist It’s perplexing to still be explaining what a trichologist is in2023, when trichology started officially in 1902; Especially given the establishment and recognition of other specialized professions like physiotherapists or podiatrists. The crux of the issue lies in the current unregulated and non-standardized state of trichology, making it difficult to establish its credibility and reach a universal understanding. Pushing for accredited education, standardization, and regulation in trichology, I believe, is the pathway towards mainstream acceptance and trust from doctors, dermatologists,

and other healthcare providers. A three-pronged approach is needed: 1. A universally recognized education equivalent to a degree level. 2. An independent regulation body, recognized by the education sector, offering guidance on best practice. 3. Professional Standards defined by stakeholders in hair/healthcare, which


Hair Authority Summer 2023 23 provide benchmarks for the educational curriculum and regulatory standards. Unfortunately, we often find that the educators, regulators, and standard setters are one and the same, stifling the evolution of the field due to lack of external influence. We, as trichologists, must advocate for change ourselves rather than relying solely on our professional societies and institutions. To do so, I propose the following measures for any trichologist to implement themselves to uplift the profession: • Eliminate Free Consultations**: A standard consultation fee will affirm the value of our professional expertise, preventing the misuse of free consultations as marketing gimmicks that might lead to pressured sales of expensive treatments. •

Mandate Professional Memberships**: Requiring affiliations with recognized institutions will ensure adherence to their standards, instilling accountability and promoting unity within the profession. Enforce Continuing Professional Development (CPD)**: Staying abreast with the latest in hair loss and hair science is paramount. Mandatory CPD activities ensure the

provision of the most current, evidence-based treatments. •

Foster Multidisciplinary Affiliations**: Encouraging ties with relevant medical and cosmetic science organizations can promote cross-collaboration and innovation, enhancing our knowledge base.

Regulate Professional Social Media Presence**: By prioritizing good quality, scientifically sound educational content, we can increase the public’s understanding of trichology and boost the profession’s reputation. Showcase Exemplary Professionals**: Highlighting trichologists who embody these standards can set a benchmark for others, fostering a culture of dedication to the field.

Discourage Misleading Prefixes**: Using titles like “consultant” or “clinical” without the requisite qualifications confuses the public and undermines our credibility with medical associates who adhere to strict use of such terms.

By adopting these steps, we can elevate trichology, enhancing its credibility, improving its standards, and fostering a conducive environment for its growth and development.

What are your thoughts? Let’s elevate trichology together - email your suggestions to me at info@hairauthority. com. IHA

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Trichology

Advancing Hair Science: Highlights from the EHRS Conference By Iain Sallis, Trichologist I was pleased to attend the recent EHRS conference in July in Sheffield, U.K. The European Hair Research Society (EHRS) is a prestigious organization dedicated to advancing hair research and promoting collaboration among hair experts. Founded in 1989, the EHRS fosters knowledge exchange and disseminates cutting-edge research on hair biology, disorders, and transplantation. This year’s conference featured many insightful presentations:

“Genetic Basis of Male Pattern Hair Loss: Comprehensive Analysis of Associated Genes” Presented by Dr. Stefanie Heilmann-Heimbach, Professor of Dermatology at the University of Bonn. Dr. Heilmann-Heimbach discussed the genetic underpinnings of male pattern baldness. By conducting genomic analysis across diverse populations, researchers can better predict hair loss risk and identify targets for improved treatments. Understanding the genetics and pathobiology of hair loss can lead to enhanced prediction and therapy options.

“Promoting Wound Healing Through Hair Follicle Transplantation” Presented by Dr. Francisco Jimenez, Professor of Dermatologic Surgery at the University of Seville.

Dr. Jimenez presented evidence that transplanting hair follicles promotes wound healing and scar remodeling. Beyond providing coverage, the grafts improve vascularization, epidermal thickness, and cell density in chronic leg ulcers and scar tissue. This technique shows promise as a therapeutic approach for various chronic skin conditions.

“Re-evaluating the Psychiatric Side Effects of Finasteride” Presented by Dr. Anna Lyakhovitsky, Dermatologist at Helsinki University Central Hospital. Dr. Lyakhovitsky analyzed data from multiple studies to argue finasteride’s mental health risks are lower than assumed. There is currently no justification to avoid finasteride due to mental health concerns, but more research should investigate subgroup differences.

“Characterizing the Human Hair Follicle Microbiome” Presented by Dr. Marta Lousada, Researcher at the Department of Dermatology, University Hospital of Zurich. Dr. Lousada discussed research on the diverse microbial communities within hair follicles. Disruptions to this microbiome associate with hair and skin conditions. Better understanding this ecosystem could reveal therapeutic treatments for hair and skin disorders. In summary, the EHRS conference highlighted promising research in genetics, wound healing, drug side effects, and the hair microbiome. As a trichology leader, I look forward to applying these latest insights in my practice. We are grateful to EHRS for continuing to advance hair science through collaboration and knowledge sharing. IHA


Hair Authority Summer 2023 25

Trichology

Don’t Stand Still! Staying Current on Hair Loss Research

For the millions affected by hair loss, new studies into the underlying biology offer hope for potential treatments. While genetics play a role, researchers are finding other factors that contribute to follicular miniaturization and impaired growth cycles.

Examining the Underlying Causes Androgenetic alopecia, or pattern hair loss, occurs when dihydrotestosterone (DHT) binds to receptors, shrinking follicles. But inflammation, oxidative stress, and disrupted angiogenesis can also accelerate shedding. Targeting these mechanisms may help stabilize or revive follicles. A 2021 study in The Journal of Investigative Dermatology found that a topical anti-androgen reduced DHT levels in follicles by nearly 60% in 4 months. Participants saw slowed hair loss progression and increased density.

Emerging Treatment Pathways Researchers at Johns Hopkins University discovered that altering signaling pathways related to WNT, a key protein for follicle development, can jumpstart dormant follicles to grow new hair. Further research is exploring WNT pathway modulation. Meanwhile, investigators at Stanford University identified specific cells that fuel follicle angiogenesis. Enhancing vascularization could nurture healthier follicular environments.

Current Treatment Options While research continues, solutions exist today: • Hair Transplants - Hair follicles are surgically extracted from the back and sides of the scalp and implanted into thinning areas. Advanced techniques like FUE allow transplanting large numbers of grafts.


26 Hair Authority Summer 2023 • Minoxidil - This topical vasodilator penetrates follicles to stimulate growth. • Low Level Laser Therapy - Laser light energizes follicles increasing thickness over 3-6 months. Cleared by the FDA for men and women. •

Anti-Inflammatories - Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs combat inflammation that can compromise follicles.

Nutrient Serums - Formulas with peptides, biotin, and antioxidants provide essential nourishment.

Hair Additions - Non-surgical options like wigs, hair extensions, and hair systems add the appearance of fullness and coverage.

Natural Oils for Hair Regrowth Exciting new research is exploring the potential of CBD, derived from hemp, to stimulate hair growth. A 2022 in vitro study by University of Colorado researchers found that applying CBD to human hair follicles extended the anagen (growth) phase while delaying the catagen (regressing) phase of the hair cycle. CBD’s antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties may create a healthier scalp environment.

Consulting Hair Loss Specialists Because of the intense research and rapid advance of hair loss therapies, patients should consult dermatology specialists or subscribe to trusted news sources like International Hair Authority to analyze causes and map customized treatment plans. For many, consistent use of research-backed approaches can maintain healthy hair. Scientists remain dedicated to unraveling the intricate biology of hair growth to develop new solutions.

Regenerating Hair in Scar Tissue Interestingly, new research also shows promise for regenerating hair follicles in wounded or scarred skin. A 2022 study published in Nature found that wound healing processes can lead to follicle neogenesis - the formation of new follicles - in adult mouse skin. Further investigation revealed that extracellular matrix proteins and mechanical forces play a key role in signaling follicle regeneration after injury. While more research is needed, this discovery opens doors to potentially restoring hair growth in scar tissues. For patients with extensive wounds or burns resulting in scarring alopecia, techniques that spur neogenesis may bring new possibilities. More clinics are exploring microneedling and lasers to activate wound healing pathways where scars have destroyed follicles. With greater understanding of mechanisms that lead to follicle formation, regenerative hair restoration may become a reality.

Banking Follicles for the Future

A 2022 clinical study by Dr. Gregory Smith and John Satino delivered promising results for natural hair oils. Their formula of advanced varins and other plant oils outperformed the FDA-approved drugs minoxidil and finasteride in boosting hair growth over 4 months. The researchers suggest the oils’ nutrients, antioxidants, and anti-inflammatories aid follicle health. Based on this research, the natural oil formula has been made into a new product called Tricomax Hair Maximizer. These findings suggest properly formulated natural oils could stimulate significant hair regrowth.

Some patients and clinics are now exploring hair follicle banking as an investment in future treatments. This involves extracting and cryopreserving healthy follicles that contain stem cells. The hope is that preserved follicular units could one day be multiplied in a lab using cell culturing methods to produce large numbers of new hairs. These could then be re-implanted back into the scalp via injections to increase density beyond what current grafting allows. While still experimental, early research showing stem cell multiplication and differentiation into new follicles has provoked excitement. Companies like Hair Bank in UK, Follicum in Sweden and Stemson Therapeutics in California are pursuing hair cloning techniques. For those willing to undergo extraction and pay banking fees, storing follicles provides an option if cloning becomes viable. Patience and caution are warranted, but follicle banking taps into the possibilities unfolding at the intersection of hair restoration and regenerative medicine. IHA


Hair Authority Summer 2023 27

Hiking Group Announces Leadership Shifts Urzola Takes Helm of Hair Visions & New Image Schwartz to Lead Parent Company

In a historic move, Hiking Group’s board of directors has appointed Oscar R. Urzola as President of both Hair Visions International and its sister company New Image Labs. While the two industry giants will continue operating independently, they will now benefit from combined leadership under Urzola. Company officials say this will strengthen their presence with manufacturers and allow them to offer even better service and prices to customers. Long-time company executive David Schwartz has taken on an expanded role as President of Eminence, the parent company overseeing Hair Visions and New Image. Schwartz will be instrumental in growing Eminence’s global reach while also providing guidance to the two hair replacement firms. All employees are retaining their current positions. The companies also emphasized that customers would continue working with the same support teams as before. While the announcements signal a new chapter, industry experts say it is too early to speculate on the impact. For now, the firms state that their primary focus remains on delivering innovative solutions and excellent service to customers.

Hair Visions Other Brands:

New Image Other Brands:

IHA


The One-Way Street of Hair Loss Referrals Non-surgical hair loss centers frequently refer clients to hair transplant surgeons when medical solutions offer the best client solutions. However, it’s rare for transplant surgeons to return the favor by referring patients for options like wigs, hairpieces, or extensions. According to a recent survey by the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS), the most commonly prescribed treatments by hair restoration surgeons were oral and topical drugs like finasteride, minoxidil and ketoconazole shampoo. Hair additions didn’t even make the list. While transplant surgery can restore hair to balding areas, it has limitations when the patient has limited donor hair. For example, surgeries results can sometimes be maximized by combining them with a hair system placed behind a transplanted front hair line to provide extra volume. In this way, building reciprocal referral relationships between surgical and nonsurgical hair loss practices could be of significant benefit to patients. Hair loss centers provide an arsenal of cosmetic options to conceal thinning hair and restore confidence. But the stigma around wigs and “fake hair” persists. Increased education and open dialogue between hair restoration stylists and physicians could help erase the taboo while giving patients more treatment plans.

How Often Various Treatments Were Prescribed to Patients in 2021

Source: International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery: 2022 Practice Census Results IHA


Hair Authority Summer 2023 29


30 Hair Authority Summer 2023

The Sun’s Sneaky Attack The Science Behind How the Sun Bleaches and Oxidizes Your Hair

There’s nothing quite like the feeling of the sun warming your skin and giving your hair a natural, sun-kissed glow. But did you know that while you’re basking in those golden rays, the sun is also working its magic on your hair? In this article, we’ll take a deep dive into the fascinating biological process of how the sun bleaches and oxidizes human hair. We’ll explore why some hair colors are more susceptible than others, how long it takes before the effects become noticeable, and whether wet or dry hair is more vulnerable. We’ll also touch on the impact of chlorinated and sea water. So, let’s unravel the science behind sun-drenched locks. The Biological Process To understand how the sun affects your hair, it’s essential to grasp the role of melanin. Melanin is the pigment responsible for determining the color of your hair, skin, and eyes. It comes in two primary forms: eumelanin (responsible for

brown and black hair) and pheomelanin (responsible for red and blonde hair). When your hair is exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun, a biological reaction occurs. UV radiation breaks down melanin molecules in your hair. This process is called


photo-oxidation. It involves the formation of free radicals, highly reactive molecules that can damage the structural proteins in your hair, particularly keratin.

Why Some Hair Colors Are More Affected Hair colors rich in eumelanin, such as brown and black, are more resistant to sun-induced damage compared to blonde and red hair, which have higher levels of pheomelanin. Eumelanin provides better protection against UV radiation because it absorbs and dissipates UV energy more efficiently. On the other hand, pheomelanin is less effective at shielding the hair from UV damage, making lighter hair colors more susceptible to bleaching and oxidation.

Time Frame for Visible Effects The time it takes for the sun’s effects to become noticeable can vary widely depending on factors such as hair color, individual genetics, and the intensity of sun exposure. Generally, it may take several weeks or even months of consistent sun exposure for noticeable changes to occur. This includes gradual lightening and the development of a more porous hair structure.

Wet vs. Dry Hair Vulnerability

when combined with sun exposure. Chlorine is a harsh chemical commonly found in swimming pools. It can strip your hair of natural oils and cause dryness and damage. Sea water, while less harsh than chlorine, contains salt, which can also dehydrate your hair and make it more susceptible to UV damage. So, if you’re taking a dip in the pool or ocean, be sure to rinse your hair thoroughly afterward and apply a protective hair product.

Protecting Your Hair from the Sun Now that you understand the science behind sun-induced hair damage, it’s crucial to take steps to protect your locks: Wear a Hat: A wide-brimmed hat can provide excellent shade for your hair and scalp. Use UV-Protective Hair Products: Look for hair products containing UV filters or wear a leave-in conditioner with SPF to shield your hair from UV radiation. Limit Sun Exposure: Try to avoid prolonged sun exposure, especially during peak UV hours (usually from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.). Stay Hydrated: Drinking plenty of water can help maintain the health of your hair and counteract some of the drying effects of sun and saltwater.

In Conclusion

Wet hair is more vulnerable to sun damage than dry hair. When your hair is wet, it’s like a sponge, and it can absorb more UV radiation, intensifying the photo-oxidation process. Additionally, the water in your hair can act as a magnifier for the sun’s rays, increasing the potential for damage. So, if you’re planning a day at the beach or by the pool, consider protecting your hair as well as your skin.

While the sun’s warm embrace can be a delight, it’s essential to be aware of its effects on your hair. Understanding the biological process of sun-induced damage, the role of melanin, and how to protect your hair can help you enjoy those sunny days without sacrificing your hair’s health and beauty. So, go ahead, soak up the sun, but don’t forget to give your hair the TLC it deserves.

Chlorinated Water and Sea Water Chlorinated water and sea water can also impact your hair IHA


32 Hair Authority Summer 2023


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