IHA Fall/Winter 2019

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MARKETING

ADVERTISING

TRICHOLOGY

BUSINESS

Branding

Reminders

Updates

Creating your own space

from S. Dimanni

Autumn hair Diabetes Iodine

HairUWear Sees unlimited potential

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The International Hair Authority

TM

Volume 23 No 82

The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation

Fall/Winter 2019

Asia Leads Korea and Japan continue to set the pace in personal care. Key new developments include anti-pollution cosmetics, anti-aging hair care, and “clean”, all-natural products. Greentech, a French biotech company has chosen the South Korean market to launch its new HairLine product that is said to prevent hair loss and increase density. GREENTECH has been developing and producing active ingredients from plants, algae, micro-algae and biotechnology in the cosmetic, nutraceutical and pharmaceutical fields.

ARTAS Changes Hands Toronto. 11/19 - The Artas robotic hair restoration system developed by Silicon Valley based Restoration Robotics has been acquired by Venus Concept Inc., a medical aesthetic technology company. Following completion of the deal, Restoration Robotics moved its corporate headquarters to Toronto, Canada. The combined company now operates under the leadership of Venus Concept’s management team. The Venus hair restoration division includes NeoGraft, an automated hair restoration system that facilitates the harvesting of follicles during a FUE process and the newly acquired ARTAS and ARTAS iX Robotic Hair Restoration Systems, which harvest follicular units directly from the scalp and create recipient implant sites using proprietary algorithms.

Hair Club’s® Puerto Rico Center Celebrates Its 20th Anniversary Boca Raton, 12/19 - Hair Club is celebrating the 20th anniversary of the opening of its Puerto Rico center. The center boasts a stateof-the-art facility staffed by nine hair health professionals. It was the first and remains the only national hair enhancement, treatment and restoration brand in the Caribbean. Hair Club membership is honored in all its 120 locations whether a client is on vacation or moves to and from the United States or Canada.

Kourtney Kardashian Tackles Traction Alopecia - PRP Gets Prime Time Los Angeles, 11/19 - On season 17 premiere of “Keeping Up with the Kardashians,” Kourtney Kardashian announced, “Today I’m getting PRP [platelet-rich plasma], which is where they take your blood and spin it and they use your plasma and they inject it in my head for my hair to grow back.” Kourtney had noticed a bald spot after tying up her hair into a tight statement ponytail for a New York fashion show. PRP (platelet-rich plasma) is a therapy for hair loss, but large-scale research studies are needed to establish the effectiveness.

Inc’s Top 500 Pro Hair Labs ranked #372

Tampa based Professional Hair Labs has grown by 1,231% in the last 3 years and in 2019 was ranked #34 among top health companies, #36 among Florida companies and #372 nationwide. Founded in 1994, the company reported income of $6.4 million in 2018. The Inc 5000 annual guide is a database of the 5,000 fastest-growing privately held companies in the U.S. IHA

Don’t miss!

World Trichology Scientific Conference - Top hairloss researchers & experts March 1-2, Orlando, FL Details P35


2 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019

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XFusionTM by ToppikTM Keratin Hair Fibers • Instant Transformation • Decades of Loyal Users • Confidence Booster

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Customer Service (800) 277-3316 VIVISCALPROFESSIONAL.COM XFUSIONHAIR.COM Materials of Church & Dwight, Co. Inc., the makers of Viviscal™ and XFusion™ by Toppik™. Copyright© 2019 Church & Dwight Co., Inc. All rights reserved. * These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.


Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 3

Editorial Happy Holidays to all our friends and colleages around the world. Here’s wishing you health, tranquility and success in all your ventures. Just Be Yourself – Everyone else is taken - Men and women want a natural, healthy lifestyle and they are embracing personal care products that support it. Earlier this year, Forbes reported on a competition where 18 judges picked 12 beauty startups they thought were the most interesting. Leading the pack was “clean and natural beauty.” We have written about the trend towards an organic lifestyle before and it is no surprise to see this reflected in the beauty market. Coming in second place were science-based products with active ingredients that deliver measurable results. We have seen multiple shampoos and tonics formulated by doctors and specialty labs and the selection continues to expand. Custom formulated products also ranked high on the list with formulae specially blended to individual customer hair and skin types. These products can also be modified to match the seasons or even medical conditions. The men’s market also ranked high as US men followed trends in Asia and begin to explore new products including makeup. The hair replacement market stands to benefit from these trends as it modernizes and continues to move from the old hairloss clichés towards a more natural, organic lifestyle. Perhaps hair additions will finally become the everyday style accessory we’ve all be dreaming about.

The Anti-Aging Business? -

I have often written about hair being the first and most obvious sign of the passing years and suggested that we stop talking about hair replacement and restoration and talk more about anti-aging. But what is old age? The World Health Organization used to claim that 65 years was old, but they have recently come up with s new definition: • 0 to 17 years: Underage • 18 to 65 years old: Youth or young people. • 66 to 79 years old: Middle aged • 80 to 99 years old: elderly or senior • 110 plus years old: Long lived elderly.

Hair Loss Studies Proliferate – Every week I receive three or four invitations to spend hundreds of dollars to receive a new hair loss study from an “Authoritative Source.” Perhaps you do too. Clearly, this is a great revenue producer for someone in a corner office somewhere. Probably overseas. Here are some of the latest. Global Hair Loss & Growth Treatments and Products Market Future Trends

2019-2024: Procter & Gamble, L’Oreal, Unilever... Global Hair Loss & Growth Treatments and Products Market Opportunities 2019 Services and Technology, Statistics, Sales Review, Forecasting 2025. Economic Effects of Hair Loss growth Treatments and Products Market, Advancement Strategy, Main Top Players, Analysis and Forecast To 2024. The Global Hair Loss and Growth Devices Industry Factbook – the most comprehensive and reliable data resource for the Hair Loss and Growth Devices available now that deliver a complete, end-to-end look at the Hair Loss and Growth Devices supply chain, changing market dynamics, evolving trends with historical market size breakdown by key segments and geographic territories that majority of leader and emerging players are focusing. Like they say, “If you can’t do it, write about it.”

Heads Up, 30,000 FDA Cosmetic Complaints - The FDA reports that cosmetics came in second,

just behind supplements in consumer complaints. In 2018, the US regulatory body received nearly 30,000 cosmetics complaints, while dietary supplements brought in 54,085. This is not a new trend. Complaints of adverse health events related to cosmetic and personal care products more than doubled from 2015 to 2016, according to a study published in the journal JAMA Internal Medicine. The majority of those complaints stemmed from hair care products.

Hair Rules -

The top iPhone and iPad apps on Apple’s app store in November 17, 2019 included TOCA Hair Salon which was ranked ninth among the paid apps. Looks like there is a whole new generation of youngsters wanting to play with hair. The future looks good!


4 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019

Let Your Advertising Fight For You By Steven DiManni

There is no other business in America that is more maligned, unfairly criticized and falsely stereotyped than the men’s hair replacement business. Not even the used car business is as frequently, and more inaccurately, attacked than ours.

we’re fighting, isn’t it?

The other night I was at home watching a late-night silent movie on TV. In the movie, a man is standing at a bus stop when a sudden wind blows the hair off his head and onto the face of the woman standing next to him. So, what does this tell me? That the negativity about hair replacement started at least FOUR generations ago. That’s some big stereotype

Of course, you don’t need to watch old silent films to hear jokes about hair replacement. Remember a few years ago when every late-night talk show host was making jokes about Sy Sperling of Hair Club fame. Or how about when Bud Light and Geico both did unflattering parodies of traditional men’s hair replacement commercials? And it’s not just movies and TV shows that disparage our industry. Even our brethren in the hair transplant industry take shots at non-surgical hair replacement. One huge hair transplant company frequently shows hair taken right out of

the box, with the underside of the base as the focal point, as it compares its transplant procedures with “hair systems.” Is it any wonder that most men losing their hair resist even the thought of non-surgical processes?

What can we do?

In this case, it’s Michigan Avenue rather than Madison Avenue that has the answer. Chicago’s largest agency and one of the biggest in the world, Leo Burnett, created Tony the Tiger, the Friendly Skies of United, the Jolly Green Giant, the Marlboro Cowboy, even Charlie the Tuna. Its founder, Leo Burnett, claimed that an advertiser has to “show the inherent drama” of his product. Now what does THAT mean? Well, Leo was using “adspeak” to simply say that at its core every product has something different about it, something that is dramatic and impressive to consumers. And what the advertiser needs to do is to “unlock” that special feature by showing it in a dramatic way.

Look at diamonds

“A diamond is forever.” Yes, it is, and now any woman who gets an engagement ring that’s anything but a diamond is looked at with pity. DeBeers (the South African mining


Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 5 co-op) equated diamonds, which last forever, with love. A diamond ring means the marriage will last forever, according to the message of DeBeers commercials. They made that the inherent drama of the product. And now they’re using it to sell the “eternity ring”, the “I’d marry you all over again ring”, and perhaps soon, “the ring-a-ding-ding-ring”. That’s how powerful showing the inherent drama of a product can be. Are you familiar with the phrase, “Colgate toothpaste with MFP”? Most people are. Crest toothpaste was the first to include fluoride protection in its formula. They had commercials featuring “the Crest kids”--children who had used Crest over the years and had fewer cavities than kids who didn’t. So, what was Colgate to do when it introduced its own version of fluoridated toothpaste? Colgate decided to make its fluoridated toothpaste sound even better than Crest. But how to do that when the two are exactly the same? Make up a name for its fluoride, of course. “MFP” stands for multiple fluoride protection. Did Crest also offer multiple fluoride protection? Sure, it did. But Colgate was the one that said it, and Colgate’s sales shot through the roof. Was Colgate saying something that was untrue? No, Colgate was just presenting its product in a more clever way than Crest did. That’s called marketing. And just like love and war, all is fair in marketing as long as it’s true.

all showing the inherent drama of the product. Why is that? Because the one thing men don’t want is to wear something on top of their heads. Showing hair and scalp with a comb running through it gives these men permission to believe that this is not something that goes over their head. There’s nothing wrong or misleading with this. It happens to be true. If you run a comb through someone’s hair, all you see IS hair and scalp. So why not tell the truth? Given all the negativity about our product, unless we present it in the best possible manner, we’re not going to attract new clients.

We need to do more Remember the Miller Lite ads from years back? They could have just been commercials that said that Miller Lite kind of tastes lighter than regular Miller and has fewer calories. But that would have been tantamount to admitting that Miller Lite was just watered down beer. So instead, Miller Lite used ex-athletes to shout “Less filling/Tastes great” at each other. That was the inherent drama of the product. And sales went through the roof.

What does it all mean?

So, what does that have to do with us? It’s a roadmap for countering consumer perceptions by showing the inherent drama of our product. Now to some extent, many in the industry already have. Showing extreme close-ups of the hair and scalp, running the comb through the hair, and so on, are

Why isn’t just showing a comb running through hair and scalp enough to communicate this inherent drama? Because it’s been done before. Quite a bit. Nothing new or dramatic about it now. Time to move on. OK, what’s next? Think along the lines of gradual hair replacement. That certainly demonstrated the inherent drama of the product, again, giving the prospective client permission to believe that this is something that doesn’t cover the scalp. How could this “process” cover the scalp if the viewer saw a guy with just his crown and a little of the mid-scalp filled in with hair, right? After all, you could see the rest of his scalp. Showing the hair gradually replaced sold a lot of hair. (I should know. I did the first gradual commercial twenty years ago.) But not a lot of studio owners

Cont’d Pg 6


6 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 sold gradual hair replacement. They could have replaced the hair gradually, like the commercial showed. There was no deception there: it was and is perfectly true. But most studio owners preferred not to do gradual applications. So, they sold the client off it and replaced his hair the conventional way. Nothing wrong with that either.

A starting point

Gradual hair replacement is a starting point for what I’m talking about. The industry needs to find more ways to demonstrate the inherent drama of non-surgical hair. In a commercial for Folligraft, which I just finished for On Rite, we chose to present the product in a way as dramatic (but not all that different) as showing the hair replaced gradually. What we did was to show the hair replaced in various locations on a bald scalp, filling in the various areas until the entire scalp was covered with hair. In other words, we showed the client bald; then with a little hair in the crown; then with more hair in the crown and some hair in the mid-scalp; then with the crown completely filled in, some hair in the mid-scalp, the beginning of a hairline, etc., until the entire head of hair was replaced by the end of the sequence. Why did we do this? Again, it all goes back to men not wanting to wear something on their heads. Just like with the gradual process, we were showing not a full head of hair, but hair lying right next to a bald portion of scalp. How does this sell hair? Because we’re showing that the new hair lies perfectly flush with the scalp. There’s no interruption from say, the crown, where there is now hair, to just in front of it, which is still bald. Again, this gets away from the notion that we’re selling something that you wear on top of your head. Like a hat. Or a, you know, ahem, toupee. Is this a lie? Let me ask you this: Can hair be applied randomly a little at a time? Of course, it can be. Could you in effect, take a hair graft, cut it apart, then apply it in small sections? Absolutely. Just like you can apply hair gradually from the back to the front. Is this the way studios will end up applying the product? Probably not. But they could if they wanted to. So, there’s no deception. What we are doing at On Rite, and what the industry should be looking to do individually and collectively, is to find new ways to present our product to the public. This is called marketing. And today we’re in a marketing-driven business, whether we like it or not.

Our product is meant to alter perceptions Now I know that there are some in the business who don’t like it. I know there are studio owners who say, “Hey, I don’t want to be less than straight with anybody.” But wait.

Aren’t we in the business of altering perceptions? Isn’t it the purpose of the product that we sell to make people think our client has a full head of hair? Isn’t that separating perception from reality? Of course, it is. We know that telling people that our product will alter perceptions is perfectly honest. We tell the client that if he has our product people will think it’s his real hair. And that’s true. It’s no less honest and no less ethical than getting that client into your studio by showing him different ways in which the hair can be legitimately and truthfully applied or styled or utilized. And that’s the truth.

Time to fight back

Don’t you ever get angry by how unfairly characterized our industry is? Don’t you ever wish you could set everyone straight about the real benefits of our product? Wouldn’t you like to fight back? Sure, you do. But you can’t do it by yourself. Your advertising has to do it for you. There are so many unjust negatives about hair replacement that have to use marketing, real marketing, the sophisticated kind practiced by the DeBeers, Colgates and Miller Lites of then world. Why? Because we have a big job to do: a major shift in consumer perception has got be made in order for us to sell our product. That’s the hope for our industry, that’s the path to getting out of neutral and growing again. And that’s why I think that every studio owner and everyone else connected to the industry should be thinking along those lines. We might not be able to control what others say about us. But we certainly can control what we say and how we present ourselves. Editor’s note: This article first appeared in The National Hair Journal and is reproduced here both as creative advice as the industry becomes ever more visible on the web and as a caution to hair loss professionals to protect our integrity by pressing forward with advanced training and best practices.

Steve DiManni who passed away in 2011, was a close friend of The Hair Authority and one of the most insightful analysts in the hair management industry. A 24-year veteran of Madison Avenue and a 23-year veteran of the hair restoration industry, Steve won almost every major advertising industry creative award in existence, including Clios, Andys, and Effies. He was a Senior Vice President and Creative Director at a $100 million New York advertising agency and a long-time consultant to the OnRite Company. IHA


Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 7

PRP Expands

Multifaceted Approach Helps Achieve Optimal Results Leonard Hair Transplant Associates is the latest clinic to introduce Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) therapy to its treatment options. This innovative combination technique uses your body’s own healing properties to stabilize progressively thinning hair as well as to promote growth of thicker, stronger hairs. “We pride ourselves on being diligent in evaluating all emerging treatment options,” said Dr. Matthew Lopresti , Chief Surgeon of Leonard Hair Transplant Associates. “After careful Dr. Robert Leonard, Lacy Sellati, RN, PA-C, Dr. Matthew Lopresti study, platelet rich plasma treatments are medically and scientifically proven to provide growth factors, which stimulate hair follicles and promote stabilization and thicker hair.” The PRP process begins with drawing blood from a patient. The blood is then placed in a centrifuge, which spins the blood, separating the plasma from the red and white blood cells. The trained medical staff at LHTA then injects the plasma, combined with a stem cell generating additive called ACell, into the patient’s scalp. ACell is an FDA-approved material made from a naturally occurring substance that boosts blood vessel formation and recruits stem cells to the treated area. As a result, it is possible for patients to see less hair loss and thicker hair growth within months. “PRP is an outpatient treatment, and patients can expect to be in and out in about 60 minutes,” said Dr. Robert Leonard , Founder of Leonard Hair Transplant Associates. “As with all of our treatment options, early detection and action is key.” PRP with ACell injections works best when combined with other restorative treatments, including Rogaine Foam®, Propecia® and laser therapy. Patients are now able to combine treatments for a multifaceted approach to achieve optimal results.” IHA

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8 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019

Is a Weak Brand Strategy Crippling Your Company 9 Things to Watch For

How strong is your company’s brand strategy? If they’re honest, many owners and business leaders would have to answer, “I’m not sure.” That’s because very few leaders understand brand, says Lindsay Pedersen. They (wrongly) believe it’s “squishy,” elusive, and superficial. The truth is, nothing is more powerful than a beloved brand—it’s what differentiates your business from everyone else’s and establishes the conditions for you to thrive. “Product can be copied, patents expire, and features become obsolete,” says Pedersen, author of “Forging an Ironclad Brand: A Leader’s Guide. “What cannot be copied are relationships. What does not expire is the trust you earn by consistently solving a customer need. What never gets old is delight. A great brand strategy yields all these benefits. It creates loyal customers who stay with you.” Pedersen says branding should be a company’s North Star. Every decision you make should be filtered through it. Forging an ironclad brand lets you occupy the single best position in the hearts and minds of your customers. When you pinpoint this optimal position, you’ll be able to create value, maximize scale, and lead with purpose. (See tipsheet below for Pedersen’s eight-step methodology.)

“Unfortunately, few leaders put in the work it takes to do this, and the result is a weak, anemic brand,” she says. “Dismissing brand results in a barren business, inhospitable for your customers, your employees, and all who benefit from knowing and experiencing the value you bring.” Pedersen says the most value-creating brand strategies are the ones that meet these nine criteria: BIG: Your brand promise must be big enough to matter. This is the space you own in your customer’s head. Make it a big space, a big promise. This will create value for both your customer and your business. By mattering to your customer, you fuel a business that matters. EXAMPLE: Salesforce enables leaders to grow their businesses faster. This is a large and resonant promise for Sales-


Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 9 force’s target customer. A less big alternative might have been “track customer communication carefully” or “largest storage capacity among CRM solutions.” With its big promise, Salesforce is a beloved brand with a tremendous market capitalization.

“For a brand to meet these criteria, leaders must make difficult choices and trade-offs” NARROW: It must be narrow enough to own. While your brand positioning must be big enough to matter, it also must be narrow enough for you to dominate. Choose a positioning you uniquely can own—one where you are not just better, but you are different. EXAMPLE: Dollar Shave Club chose a meaning narrow enough to own. They unabashedly targeted millennial males not loyal to the status quo way of buying shaving materials. With a subscription-based razor delivery model, Dollar Shave Club outflanked Gillette by not distributing through traditional retailers. ASYMMETRICAL: It must use your lopsided advantage. Promise and deliver from your place of dramatically asymmetrical strength. (It’s asymmetrical because your edge comes not from being medium-good at a lot of things, but from being excellent at one thing.) Your positioning must pinpoint precisely what only you can bring to your customer that others cannot copy. EXAMPLE: GORE-TEX has an asymmetrical advantage in waterproof fabrics. By inventing and patenting the technology for their fabric in 1969, they claimed the gold standard in waterproof fibers. As a result, GORE-TEX waterproof fabric is used in products manufactured by Patagonia, L.L. Bean, Oakley, Marmot, and The North Face (to name just a few). EMPATHETIC: It must address a deeply relevant and meaningful need. Your positioning must genuinely have your customers’ interests at heart. Ironclad brands genuinely care about their customers and seek to serve them with authenticity. EXAMPLE: Airbnb empathetically addresses a large and previously unserved desire. Based on a promise to “belong anywhere,” Airbnb marries two deep, human needs: the need to belong and the need to feel safe in parts of the world beyond our experience. The Airbnb promise is meaningful for guests, who get to experience a new place through the lens of a local, and hosts, who get to share their world with someone they’d otherwise never get to know. OPTIMALLY DISTINCT: It must strike a balance between familiar and novel. Your brand positioning must be recognizable enough that your customer can easily grasp

it, and yet new enough that it breaks through clutter and sparks intrigue. Familiarity gets you into the customer’s mind, while novelty attracts the customer’s attention. EXAMPLE: Chobani yogurt blends the distinctness of Greek-style yogurt with the familiarity of mainstream American yogurt. Fage had made the mistake of being very different—an unintuitive-to-pronounce name (“Fah-jay”), large cartons, plain whole milk SKUs—and never broadly tapped Americans’ yogurt-eating. Mainstream American brands like Yoplait had become ho-hum, uninteresting—overly familiar. Chobani blended familiar (traditional American fruit flavors and single-size servings) with novel (Greek yogurt’s thick texture), growing it to be one of the largest in the yogurt category. FUNCTIONAL AND EMOTIONAL: It must serve the customer on both functional and emotional levels. Your offering must be at the critical intersection of your customer’s heart and mind. If it’s only emotional, they might not believe it. If it’s only functional, they won’t bond with it or be loyal to it. EXAMPLE: Etsy gets it just right by promising “something real from a real person”—an ideal intersection of functional and emotional. They bring the functional benefit of making it easy to find makers of what you need along with the emotional, soul-satisfying payoff of buying from a real artisan. It is functional enough to assuage the mind and emotional enough to capture the heart. In contrast, Microsoft Office is a brand that is overly functional—it is all about the product’s Cont’d Pg 11


10 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019

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Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 11

features and does nothing for your heart. And Jaguar is a brand that is too emotional—while the heart loves style and luxury, the mind can’t accept that it requires frequent repairs.

but not so fast that it’s not believable. Fifteen percent is substantial but does not sound like an overpromise. The matching of “15 minutes” with “15 percent” makes the promise memorably specific.

SHARP-EDGED: It must entail a single, sharp-edged promise. Your brand positioning must be simple and singuDELIVERS: You must deliver on your brand promise lar. It should be ridiculously clear to customers what you do across everything you do, from big to small, from new and don’t promise. Focus on that specific benefit, with all you customer to loyal customer—consistently. You don’t just do and say supporting that single idea. nail the letter of the promise, but the spirit of the promEXAMPLE: Let’s look at a ise. few well-known car brands. Zappos prom“Once you’ve created your brand strategy EXAMPLE: When you say Volvo, I say ises world-class customer safe. When you say Prius, I say methodically, thoroughly, and honestly, it service, and they deliver on fuel-efficient. When you say should guide you at your highest level” that consistently and across all Jeep, I say fun. None of these dimensions. They hire people brands overextend into being for their customer service sporty, prestigious, or fast. It’s ethic. Their processes are set up to reward creative, aboveclear both what they do and what they don’t do. But when and-beyond ways to delight customers. They will get your you say Buick, it doesn’t mean much. That’s a brand without merchandise to you in 24 hours. They provide free shipping sharp edges. both ways. Even their boxes are a treat to open. They deliver HAS TEETH: It must be demonstrably true. Your positioning must offer compelling, granular, concrete proof that it will deliver on its promise. It need not only be true, but demonstrably true. This helps customers believe it, trust it, and engage with it. EXAMPLE: Plenty of insurance companies pitch a savings advantage. However, only Geico’s promise to save you money on car insurance is extremely specific, with numerical, relevant facts to back it up: “Fifteen minutes could save you 15 percent or more on car insurance.” Fifteen minutes is fast,

excellent customer service in spades.

“For a brand to meet these criteria, leaders must make difficult choices and trade-offs,” says Pedersen. “It can feel scary to decide so boldly and shine a spotlight on what you have selected. Yet choosing is what separates good leaders from great leaders, what separates flash-in-the-pan businesses from the ones that endure for generations.” Eight Steps to Forging an Ironclad Brand Cont’d Pg 12


12 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 The Ironclad Method is the eight-step process Lindsay Pedersen uses to help businesses of all sizes—from solo-owned to publicly traded; from B2B to B2C; from stodgy, old-economy categories to disruptive, new-to-the-world innovations—build a powerful brand strategy. “This method makes building your brand strategy a natural, energizing, fortifying discovery for your business,” says Pedersen, author of Forging an Ironclad Brand. “It is the crystallization and delivery of your business’s value to customers. You can and must gain this clarity.” STEP 1: Orient. This is where you establish context. Whom do you serve and what are their alternatives for the problem you solve? In the first step of creating your brand strategy, you orient to your target customer and your competitive frame of reference. You define the most fertile place to lay your roots. The rest of your brand strategy will spring from these choices. STEP 2: Listen. By getting into a listening mindset and preparing for and conducting customer research, you set up the richest building blocks for your brand strategy. Here is where you glean insights about the real human beings behind the concept of “target customer.” Your success depends largely on your mindset: You are seeking to learn, connect dots, and integrate—not simply record and then regurgitate. STEP 3: Examine. Here you examine the insights you have collected and synthesize them into the Uncommon Denominator framework. The Uncommon Denominator is the intersection of what your customer wants, what you’re good at, and what your competition is not good at, or has chosen not to focus on. Drawing from this zone enables you to move from a brand that meets a need generically to a brand that meets a need uncommonly. STEP 4: Ladder. Next you develop a ladder of benefits and reasons to believe that specify the promise your business makes, how you prove that promise, and what your customer ultimately enjoys as a result of experiencing that promise. This is perhaps the most critical step in the Ironclad Method: You distill your business’s value proposition into an argument that is at once grounded and aspirational. The ladder depicts the levels at which your business benefits your customer, from the functional and grounded to the emotional and transcendent. STEP 5: Characterize. By pinpointing your character archetype and defining the personality and tonality of your business, you enable yourself and others to embody your brand consistently and genuinely. Human beings connect better with other human beings than they do with abstract entities. When you allow your business to show up with the

characteristics of a person, you are working with, rather than against, the way people naturally bond. STEP 6: Stage. In the sixth step, you will define each stage of your customer’s journey with your brand. Explicitly describing the stages enables you later to tailor your messages for a given customer in a given piece of communication, progressing those customers along in their journeys. All of this will connect the dots between your brand strategy and the deep customer engagement of an ironclad brand. STEP 7: Activate creative. This step establishes the strategic directive, stripping out the extraneous and subjective before beginning the creative development process. When you activate creative, you put to use your ironclad brand strategy. The creative and messaging you develop—company name, logo, About Us page, packaging, photos for your website, Facebook ads, billboards, sales demos, and all the other things you do to communicate your brand for your audience—happen now. STEP 8: Zoom out. Finally, you’ll zoom out to begin seeing brand in everything. You’ll do this through the lens of two classic frameworks that help leaders use brand as a complete strategic platform for growing with purpose. One is the 4 Ps—Product, Price, Place, and Promotion—a framework for marketing decision-making first proposed by Harvard Business School’s Jerome McCarthy in 1960, and later popularized by Philip Kotler of the Kellogg School of Management. The other framework is the 3 Ds that I learned from former Clorox Company CEO Don Knauss—Desire, Decide, and Delight—which are the three “moments of truth” that occur with your target customer. “Once you’ve created your brand strategy methodically, thoroughly, and honestly, it should guide you at your highest level,” says Pedersen. “Let it not be merely for marketing tactics, pricing, or your next messaging campaign, but, rather, let it infuse everything. Let it not be just for customers or just for employees; rather, let it inspire everyone.” About the Author: Lindsay Pedersen is the author of Forging an Ironclad Brand: A Leader’s Guide. She is a brand strategist, board advisor, coach, speaker, and teacher known for her scientific, growth-oriented approach to brand building. She developed the Ironclad Method for value-creating brands while working with billion-dollar businesses like Starbucks, Clorox, Zulily, T-Mobile, and IMDb, as well as many burgeoning start-ups. Lindsay lives in Seattle with her husband and two children. For more information, please visit www.ironcladbrandstrategy.com. About the Book: Forging an Ironclad Brand: A Leader’s Guide (Lioncrest Publishing, April 2019, ISBN: 978-1-544-51386-7, $27.99) is available at bookstores nationwide and from major IHA online booksellers.


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Looking Ahead... HairUWear Sees Unlimited potential HairUWear has been a pioneer in personal marketing and the company continues to set an enviable pace. In this second article, we continue our discussion with CEO, Michael Napolitano and explore the vision, creativity and force behind HairUWear.

Authority: Today, hair additions are no longer a cover up, they’re about lifestyle. How do you see the future? Michael Napolitano: I see unlimited potential, but we must continue to take the initiative. Celebrities are walking the red carpet and the media is quick to point out the dresses from Valentino, the makeup from Bobby Brown and the valuable jewelry the stars are wearing - but they never talk about the hair. That’s a huge void and one we need to fill. When we do that, people will begin to talk about - and copy - those styles and we will set new trends.

Michael Napolitano, CEO

We are already part of these events. For example, Jennifer Lopez had “Great Lengths” in her hair at the Met Gala, but nobody knew about that. The same thing goes for other stars on the red carpet at the Oscars. Most of the stars at events like these have added length or extra volume in their hair and they look fabulous, but no one knows. We can do the same thing for any woman, celebrity or not. Authority: How do you bring hair out of the closet? Michael Napolitano: We’re very big on the social media scene. We have a lot of followers. Including a worldwide community of hairdressers. When we post something, we routinely get 2000 likes and our videos get 100,000 views? Authority: Do you create provocative designs to show you are on the cutting edge of fashion like the automobile industry that shows off “concept cars”? Michael Napolitano: We may do this sometimes in editorial features that we share with the industry, but we typically try to feature material that’s more relatable to the consumer. That said, we can certainly create that ‘runway’ hair. if you want to talk about cutting edge, take a look at the opening show our team did the for AHA show. That was really avant-garde. Wow! Take a look too at our images that Modern Salon puts in their magazine. Then there are our videos. Once they’re on social media, we get worldwide recognition. We’re very focused when we put things out. If it isn’t cutting edge, it can’t be released. Everything has to be perfect. Our Chief Marketing Officer, Michael Ferrara, will tell you what a psychopath I was when he first came to the business five or six years ago


Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 17 Authority: How did a disciplined marketing manager turn into a psychopath? Michael Napolitano: I acquired a company that had been around forever; they had tremendous factory relationships and a strong team of employees in Asia. It was a nice foundation, but it had to be changed. In fact, the whole industry needed to change. That’s why we brought Raquel into it and that’s when the transition started. I was now working with tremendous designers and a beauty icon and then we added Great Lengths and start getting thousands of certified people. So now I’m working with even more talented, artistic people. That unleashed the visionary part of me.

“We’re very big on the social media scene. We have a lot of followers. Including a worldwide community of hairdressers.” At the outset, when I was doing the business part, my goal was simply to build a successful company, but then passion took over. It was also fueled by a personal challenge that tested my judgement and my resolve. When people told me it would be wrong to launch ‘Great Lengths’, it became visceral. Tell me I can’t do it, and I’ll prove you wrong. That is how the passion started and it never went away. It’s still exciting to get up in the morning! Authority: Does success dull the challenge? Michael Napolitano: You can’t take leadership for granted. Every day there’s the challenge to stay ahead. The market is in a constant state of flux. There are so many people with different needs and lifestyles. The most rewarding part of success is the change you bring to people’s live. Our social media pages are loaded with client and consumer comments. When somebody looks great on their wedding day, or somebody get their hair back who is in chemo and tells me, “It makes me feel whole again” this makes me really happy. Money can’t give that to you. Women have told me, “I never thought I’d like this better than my own hair!” and instead of wearing a wig to cover up their head during therapy and then getting rid of it, they keep wearing our wigs to get great styles they never had before.

do because the words “hair replacement” don’t capture it. It is so much bigger and deeper than that. I don’t like saying “hair replacement” or “hair addition” because you’re talking about the product. It doesn’t include the psychological benefit. Authority: Unfortunately, the industry has also inherited negative connotations from the old days. Michael Napolitano: I want to take away the stigma of hair replacement so people can talk about our work and products like they do when they say, I use “Kleenex” instead of paper tissues or “Hoover” for vacuum cleaner or “Scotch Tape”. When people talk about their hair, instead of saying, “I want an extension” I want them to say, “I want a Great Lengths” for example. That’s how we’re trying to position all our brands. We’re working on it now with American Hairlines. It’s a vision. I’m not saying that we’ve done that yet, but it’s something that we’re trying to do. Authority: Who would have guessed that Raquel Welch would do for HairUWear what Marylin Monroe did for Hugh Hefner? Michael Napolitano: Raquel has been extraordinary, but we did the same thing with another brand, “Hairdo,” where our spokesperson was Jessica Simpson and I don’t have to tell you what Jessica did for the brand. Now we work with influencers. Marketing has changed. It’s about making lots of friends, telling a story and getting people to know who you are. That’s our goal now, making friends and getting everybody familiar with the brands. Looking forward, we are connecting with young people. Hairdo; is a young person’s brand, but older women like it too because Hairdo is an Transformations by Raquel

Authority: We continue to be surprised by statistics that show the psychological effects of losing your hair. Michael Napolitano: You can’t put a number on what it means to lose your hair. We have a responsibility to help make people whole again. We can be that little ray of light. I wish, I wish there was a better description for the work we Cont’d Pg 20


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20 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019

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“adventure.” It comes in green, blue, pink gray, all those funky colors you see celebrities wearing around the world. Authority: What advice would you give to other business leaders to help improve the hair industry?

“You can’t take leadership for granted. Every day there’s the challenge to stay ahead. The market is in a constant state of flux.” Michael Napolitano: Well, first of all, you can’t be a micromanager. You have to position yourself with greatness; that’s your biggest asset in the bank. Surround yourself with great people and set a business culture. People must believe in that culture and the direction you’re going in. You need more than a marketing team; you want people who don’t just understand the culture, they live it as well.

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Next, take care of yourself. I don’t care if you are a construction worker, a stylist or an office worker, you need to look after your body. I have a very intense work schedule because I manage a lot of different brands, but I make time for myself. Exercise is the best thing in the world for your brain and your body. I have a variety of ways I do this and it’s time I use to process information and come up with new ideas. My alone time is often my most creative time. I don’t micromanage and I encourage people to come to me with new and even controversial ideas. Which takes me to point number three; listen. When people have an opinion that’s different to yours, you’ve got to listen and be open to it. Authority: Is there anything that concerns you about the market? Michael Napolitano: Yes. I was at this trade show and this French guy comes up to me. He’s got a plastic bag and he


Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 21 says, “HI, I’ve been waiting to meet you. You’re the king of the business. I represent a factory in China, and we want to do business with HairUWear, yada, yada, yada”. So, I say, “Is that your hair?” and he says, “Yes,” and I tell him I want to see it. So, he takes it out and it was awful! It felt like doll’s hair, or owl hair or whatever. But the packaging said “100% virgin, Remy hair.” When he sees I don’t believe the description, he tells me, “It can be whatever you want it to be, you just tell us what you want it to be and that’s what we’ll put on there.” That’s the part of the industry that scares me and the public doesn’t know about it. That’s why I said in the very beginning that we’re not selling hair, we’re selling education. Our clients can’t buy a strand of hair, can’t buy a brush, can’t buy a bottle of shampoo from us unless they attend our three-day certification program. But even with this program, there are always going to be consumers who are not completely satisfied and when this happens, we immediately investigate it and if we find the stylist has had previous incidents like this, they cannot do another application until they go through more education.

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Authority: In conclusion Michael, if you were granted just one wish, what would it be? Michael Napolitano: I want to see celebrities walking the red carpet and talking about their hair. I want them to say, “I have Great Lengths in my hair”, or “I have Raquel on my head.” We haven’t gotten there yet, but we do get it occasionally. You find us everywhere there are celebrities, but I need them to talk about their hair. I want that in a really big way. When they do that, I see unlimited potential. IHA

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22 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019

We Don't Know What We Don't Know Until We Realize, We Didn't Know It By Amy Gibson

Wearing wigs for so many years and working professionally with incredible women for over 20 years with wigs and hair loss, I thought I had a handle on everything that’s needed to manufacture, promote and sell. But as I started into production …, I found out I had some more lessons to learn! As most of you will agree, one of the biggest problems wig wearers experience are wigs and scarves sliding around on their head. Most of us have used wig-tape, clips and glue. Many of us have used the Wig Bands out there, but I've found that none of them really worked well enough for my clients with any level of hair loss, in preventing wigs or scarves from slipping. In my own experience with trying to make even stock wigs fit correctly, trying to find the right wig band was challenging that didn’t cause bulk, would have a firm enough grip throughout the day, didn’t give me a headache, and that wouldn’t stretch and lose elasticity became more and more frustrating. So, as with everything I create, it is born out of my own personal frustrations of a void in the marketplace. Hence, I decided to make one that was different and reversible for women with or without hair! A wig band that would grip well to the head on one side using silicone for somebody without hair and work great on the other side for those with hair! Now that was different! But how do I do that? Where do I start? What financial commitment was I looking at? Differently than the previous products I'd designed, I was totally in the dark with this one! Working with Aderans creating the First Women’s Swim Wig with CyberHair, I was lucky to have had a pro, Darla Smith, guiding me. She was phenomenal at taking this young woman who had not gone swimming for 17 years and who had a dream and concept to make a difference for women and helped me bring the swim wig to fruition. This pro mentoring was an entirely different way of working that I hadn’t experienced before with my small hair replacement business. Together we went through the arduous process of making countless Prototypes that didn’t work, before finally coming up with the right one! It was quite a journey and I’m grateful to her for all she taught me. But that was very different as there was the financial backing

and support of a large company taking care of the packaging, labels, promotion etc. The Amy’s Presence® CyberHair Swim Wig (Currently Private Issue) has gone on to help thousands of women giving them freedom they needed to feel beautiful while being active. However, doing this new wig band on my own would prove to be a very different story. In a short amount of time, it was clear this was not a product that could be created via Skype. It was not working well trying to do it by phone and it was difficult, at best, trying to explain the design markings through my drawings and attempting to show the factory how to do this design - half the time having to overcome the iPhone English to Chinese translation app! It was just best to get on a plane, do the 23-hour trip, take time away from my business and steady income to stay in China for at least a week and a half to oversee the prototypes I had created and make the corrections along the way until I had to leave and come back to work at home. It would take several more trips to China, making more corrections, before I was comfortable with the final result. (Let's not even bring up the food in China and the bacteria that was NOT friendly …) I believed and knew in the bottom of my soul that this wig band product was needed, and I would find my way step by step. I had to take a chance and risk financial loss in the hopes that it would work. There were stumbling blocks from the beginning; finding the right silicone that wasn’t too thick, that had the correct adhesion element, that didn’t turn color, didn’t break with sewing, and fit the correct dimensions to allow me to file for a patent. Then came the 'adventure' with labels and packaging that was a nightmare. But over time you learn to breathe, take each thing as it comes and then move through the process to bring it to fruition. With each step you get more secure. It was difficult leaving my own business, but you Scarf must make choices and I made the


Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 23 TM

THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY

The Hair Authority’s mission is to provide hairmanagement professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their clients and patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.

choice to give up something to create impact. This simple image was created by Derek Halpern founder of Social Triggers and it’s been shared thousands and thousands of times because…it rings true with entrepreneurs who know that, while there are definitely “ups” when running your own business, there are also a lot of “downs.” It’s about learning how to navigate them, so you still attain success in the end. The one thing that I learned through all of this is that if you have a vision and you have the patience to see it through, that is at the heart and soul of bringing it to life. Just do it and keep making the adjustments! All you can do is go for it ... If you fail you fail, but you have to go for it! I’m thrilled to say that Wigs.com has become the exclusive distributor for Wig SECURE™ and several products I’ve been working on for years that we are bringing to market together. They’ve done a great job handling my ResQ Bag® and are doing an even better job with WIG Secure™. It just launched and is now the number one selling accessory on their site and we are now opening for US, European and UK wholesale distribution. If you have a dream, follow it. Even if you don’t know how you’re going to do it - how are you going to get the money - how are you going to market it - who is going to help you —- just take the first step forward. If you find along the way that you lose the passion for what you wanted to create or that it is too much pressure then you’ll know to stand down, but in the meantime don’t suppress your passion or your dreams for anyone or anything. If you have a product you want to bring to market just keep on believing in yourself and your product. Breathe through each moment and with every obstacle that arises - you’re going to have them - just keep the faith, stay focused and keep yourself calm while you figure it out. Whether it’s creatively or financially, there’s an answer and always a solution. It doesn’t matter how far you take it to market — just get it IHA to market. Even if it’s just for your own store.

EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb

cwebb@hairauthority.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dylan Case dcase@hairauthority.com

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Larry Oskin info@hairauthority.com

LEGAL NOTICE

The views expressed in The International Hair Authority are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The International Hair Authority, its editors or staff. The Authority’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The International Hair Authority makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the International Hair Authority a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The International Hair Authority accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of the International Hair Authority and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The International Hair Authority, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The International Hair Authority Media Kit.

COPYRIGHT

The material published in The International Hair Authority is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.

THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY 39252 Winchester Road #107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563 Email: info@hairauthority.com Tel: 626-709-6397


24 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019

The Energizer Gets Personal Marketing advice from Lance Centofanti The pace of technology is blistering, disruptive, and exciting. Today’s digital revolution has led to a decisive moment in our industry. The old certainties are no longer there. Today the secret sauce in our hair loss industry is to understand how to stay alongside the consumer in a fast changing and challenging marketplace. To accomplish that imperative we must offer bold, new and effective strategies to get to the new business hot spots. We must keep up with the demands of the customer of the future by integrating emerging technologies with the buyer’s perspective . Even though younger consumers are the next customer pool, you can’t gear everything to millennials. We need to sell dreams of a better life; and not just to young people. Messaging is essential. For instance, we have explored the idea that NO ONE starts out wanting to be bald – so it’s essential to prevent as well as correct thinning hair We need to socialize our brands products and services rather than just marketing and selling them. Today, anonymous messaging just doesn’t cut it. The outreach must be personalized and targeted in order to resonate. That means we have to show each prospect how hair remedies are customized, and that each client gets a personal assessment and solution Great marketing turns glum to joy through sensory delight, while baking in what Leonardo Da Vinci called, “The urgency of doing.” Listen to and learn from each client – what do they want? Reinforce that with the answers you offer them. Another imperative is to expand our outreach to the thinning hair niche. The message to younger consumers is powerful-Hair loss is not life threatening, but you need to treat it early because it’s life changing.\ Younger customers also respond to services that are community-oriented. Let them know about the good that you do, the giveback that you participate in. It makes a difference in their reaction to you. The whole “sharing economy” is surprisingly obvious. So is the on-demand future of video that is flowing in greater waves every day on consumers’ screens. Finally, Better informed consumers need to find qualified professionals they can trust. Retailers need to find a way to differentiate their expertise. Lance Centofanti is Vice President of Sales and Marketing at HairVisions International. He has over 49 years of industry experience, having spent time in the roles of hair stylist, image consultant, studio owner, brand strategist, sales & marketing executive, and success coach. His unquenchable enthusiasm and zest have earned him the industry nickname of The Energizer. IHA


Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 25

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28 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019

Trichology Section Presidents Message I am delighted to announce that the World Trichology Society (WTS) has invited members from around the world to become Area Representatives of the WTS. The representatives are not only emissaries of our organization, bringing the WTS name, its vision and values to each part of the world, but also listening and observing what the local Trichologists and hair-specialists are thinking or concerned about. With this in mind, they will be writing about their thoughts on the major issues of trichology facing many Trichologists today as well as writing about local issues regarding our industry. David Kingsley, PhD. President World Trichology Society

In this edition, Certified Trichologists Bissan Debsi, Cynthia Jones, and Anthony Pearce have given their feedback on issues that have concerned them or feel need to be presented to the Trichological community. I’m sure you will find their thoughts enlightening and If you have any comments or wish to make your own observations, we would be happy to hear from you.

Diabetes and Hair Loss by Cynthia Jones, WTS

Email: universaltrichology@yahoo.com

follicles and lead to hair loss. Poor Circulation – When follicles don’t get the nutrients needed, hair growth can be affected. Immune System Deficiency – Autoimmune disorders such as diabetes, occur when the immune system accidentally attacks healthy tissues, thinking they are foreign invaders which can result in disrupted hair growth cycle. Emotional Stress – Stress from being a diabetic and chronic emotional stress in several studies have linked severe psycho-emotional stress to the onset of hair loss. Diabetes is a disease that affects your body’s ability to produce insulin. Insulin is a hormone created in the pancreas that allows your body to utilize glucose (sugar) from carbohydrates. The insulin moves those sugars from the bloodstream to the cells, where they are used as energy or stored for later use. When your body turns the food you eat into energy, insulin is released to help transport this energy to the cells. If you have diabetes, either your body doesn’t produce this vital hormone (type 1 diabetes), it doesn’t use it affectively (type2 diabetes), or both. This can result in a buildup of sugar in the bloodstream. As a result, excess sugar can cause hair loss.

SOME OF THE POTENTIAL CULPRITS ARE: Hormonal Imbalance – Uncontrolled diabetes can cause a disruption of your body’s hormones which can affect hair health and hair growth. Fluctuating hormone levels due to diabetes can negatively affect the generation process of hair

Medication – A variety of different medications to treat diabetes such as, Atenolol, Metoprolol, Nadolol, Propanolol, Timolol are associated with hair loss. Thyroid disease is quite common in people with diabetes, which can cause hair loss. Infections – diabetics are more prone to infections, and with a reduced ability to fight infection, this can disrupt the growth cycle. Alopecia areata is a condition in which the immune system begins to attack healthy hair follicles by mistake. People with type 1 diabetes are more likely than people without this condition to develop alopecia areata.

THE MOST EFFECTIVE WAY TO HELP KEEP YOU HEALTHY AND SLOW OR STOP HAIR LOSS IS TO;


Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 29 1st Step, always consult your doctor. Your Doctor and Trichologist together can give suggestions about diet and lifestyle which may help with your blood sugar. Take medication as directed by your doctor. Monitor your blood levels regularly. Exercise – Daily exercise, this will help reduce your blood levels and improve the delivery of oxygen to your hair follicles. Exercise will also relieve stress, and lead to a higher energy level. Nutrition – Eat a balanced diet which may include Salmon, almonds, sweet potatoes, eggs and oats. Drink 8-ounce glasses of water daily. Eating a well-balanced diet that contains the 13 essential vitamins can help maintain the health of your hair. Vitamin B7, also called biotin, Vitamin B3, also called

niacin, Vitamin C, Vitamin D and minerals such as Zinc and Iron provide essential nutrients that may help with hair loss. Low Level Laser Therapy – stimulates the hair follicles and increases blood flow which promotes hair growth. FDA Approved hair growth drugs Minoxidil (Rogaine) and Finasteride (Propecia) may help with hair growth. Join a support program. Based on findings of a study presented at the World Congress on Insulin Resistance, Diabetes & Cardiovascular Disease in Universal City, California, when you join a support program, it can help you manage your medication routine much better. It may also help you improve your diet, exercise and other behaviors that impact your diabetes management. For assistance for finding support groups go to American Diabetes Association website.

Iodine

What It Is + Why It Is SO Important for Women. By Anthony Pearce, WTS

anthony@hairlossclinic.com.au

profound influence on body functioning and hair growth. In 2008 Professor Creswell Eastman from the Australian Council of Control (Iodine Deficiency Disorders) – urged food manufacturers to again add Iodine to their products. His statement arose from a national study which found almost half of all Australian children of primary school age revealed Iodine deficiency.

Why optimised Iodine levels are so essential for Women: In terms of metabolic importance, Iodine is deemed the next most essential (trace) nutrient after iron and Vitamin D. The following article is based on research in Australia, but the conclusions apply to locations worldwide where women may suffer from iodine deficiency It’s believed >70% of ALL Australians are Iodine deficient to some degree. Why this is so is multi-factorial; partly due to Australia’s nutrient-poor soil, Chlorine/Fluorine added in most Australian tap water (1) and Bromine in foods – particularly bread. Iodine, Chlorine, Fluorine and Bromine are termed ‘Halogens’ and exert an absorption-antagonising effect on each other; Iodine uptake into the thyroid gland is inhibited by the other three (Baratosy: 2005) (2). Simply put: Iodine deficiency = compromised thyroid hormone production (Baratosy: 2005). Iodine is essential for the making of thyroid hormone; thyroid hormone has the most

1. The adult female breasts compete for Iodine entrapment, meaning less Iodine is inclined to be taken up by the female thyroid compared to males. This is part of the reason why females tend to exhibit more thyroid problems than do males. Dr. John Lee – a progressive Australian thyroid hormone researcher, found he was treating a ‘disproportionate number’ of female swimming instructors with thyroid dysfunction due to Iodine deficiency (Lee:2007). Anecdotally it’s been suggested an increasing number of professional swimmers are developing breast disease or thyroid disturbance in Australia. A full scientific study is yet to be undertaken on this trend. 2. Iodine deficiency in susceptible women raises their longterm risk of breast disease. The research of noted medical researchers around the world (US Researchers: Dr. David Brownstein, Dr. David Zhava) found long-term Iodine deficiency increased a woman’s potential risk of breastdCont’d Pg 30


30 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 disease by 25-50%. Coincidentally a 2009 study found women with Vitamin D levels greater than 85nmol/L had a 50% decreased risk of being diagnosed with breast disease than those women with levels less than 60nmol/L (Rejnmark:2009) 3. The Iodine levels in a pregnant Woman determines her developing baby’s IQ and brain development. Cretinism in a neonate is the more severe consequence of an Iodine deficient mother. A pregnant woman’s Iodine should ideally be optimised at around 250ug/L (or greater) to support both her and her developing child (Lee: 2016). At the 2014 PCCA conference, Dr. Lee encouraged practitioners to “optimise” Iodine pools (Iodine stores) in patients – rather than simply “normalise” them. The research of noted Sydney (Australia) Cancer researcher – Dr. Joachim Fleurer – found it best to keep Iodine levels as close to but UNDER 300ug/L to maximise breast disease protection BUT minimise risk of benign goitre (3).

Why do optimised Iodine levels help reduce the risk of breast disease? A post-pubescent Woman produces three principal forms of Oestrogen: Oestradiol, Oestriol and Oestrone. The percentages produced vary and are determined by the woman’s age, pregnancy status or problems within her reproductive organs. All Oestrogens – natural and synthetic from hormonal therapy - are ultimately metabolised by the liver’s detoxification pathways. 2-hydroxyoestrone (2-OHE 1) is considered the ‘safer’ oestrogen metabolite and believed to be protective from breast and cervical cancer. Four (4) and 16-hydroxyoestrone are the metabolites of synthetic oestrogens found in oral contraceptives and hormone replacement therapy (HRT). When a woman has optimised Iodine pools, her breast receptors will have a greater affinity for 2-OHE 1 – the more protective oestrogen metabolite. If her Iodine pools are depleted however – her breast receptors with not differentiate between 2, 4 or 16-OHE 1. If malignant breast cancer cells are present in that woman, the cancer cells will concentrate 4 and 16-OHE 1 metabolites and grow from them at an approximate rate of two centimetres per decade (Lee: 2007). A particularly infamous synthetic oestrogen – Diethylstilboestrol (DES) – was offered to women for almost forty

years before its withdrawal in the 1970’s. DES was linked to increased occurrence of breast cancer and other significant health issues. DES exposure in unborn children was linked to vaginal and breast cancer in females and reproductive tract abnormalities in males in later life. There is research to suggest the children of these children (i.e.: 3rd generation of DES exposed women) may also be at increased risk of cancer-related disease – Baratosy: 2010)

Why Iodine is NOT routinely tested: Many health practitioners do understand the significance of assessing a patient’s Iodine status, however it is still not a routine test with other orthodox medical practitioners – nor available under the Australian Medicare (universal) health cover. Doctors are often reluctant to request Iodine as a privately paid test so as not to incur additional expense for their patients. I would argue 100% of women would rather pay <$50.00 for a test that could improve their health and aid in protecting them from breast disease than discover an Iodine deficiency has been the cause of poor health or disease onset. The high incidence of Iodine deficiency in Australia - and the potential consequences which flow from deficiency – should cause health authorities to re-evaluate the need for Iodine screening as a preventative health measure. From a pure cost saving perspective to the health care system: a humble urine test costing a few dollars is incomparable to the expense of treating thyroid or breast disease. I would also assert none of these costs could ever equate to the patient’s potential stress and distress caused by these significant health conditions.

Considerations and Precautions with Iodine supplementation: • Where a patient has elevated thyroid antibodies, any Iodine supplement MUST be provided in conservative dosage (100-150mcg/day). Excessive Iodine supplementation can further inflame an irritated, nodular thyroid gland or one which is under autoimmune attack (Van Zanden: 2014). A baseline Iodine level should (obviously) be obtained before prescribing supplementation. • Medication interaction: Iodine is totally contra-indicated for patients with hyperthyroidism and taking medication such as Methimazole.


Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 31 o Some anti-hypertensive/cardiac drugs (4) and diuretic (potassium sparing) medication cause too much potassium to be retained by the body. NOTE: Spironolactone is a potassium-sparing diuretic commonly prescribed by Doctors for female androgenic hair loss. o Potassium is an essential intra-cellular electrolyte to aid in maintaining optimal cardiac rhythm, muscle contraction and digestive functioning. Excess Potassium may result in life-threatening cardiac arrhythmias and significant muscle weakness. o Lithium – prescribed as a mood stabiliser for Bipolar disorder can result in an under-functioning thyroid gland when combined with Iodine supplementation that is ‘excessive’, prolonged or where no Iodine deficiency exists. Lithium potentiates Iodine’s effect on the thyroid gland. • The NHMRC recommends Kelp (seaweed) supplements or kelp-based products NOT be taken as they may contain varying levels of Iodine AND be contaminated with heavy metals such as Mercury. Iodine amounts within Kelp is often not ’standardised’ (i.e.: a consistent therapeutic amount in each dose). Lastly – because of the fibrous

vegetable nature of Kelp – it does not release its Iodine well (Mosely: 2018) • Iodine supplementation should be taken daily (rather than every other day or sporadically) as Iodine has a very short ‘half-life’ and will ineffective in repleting Iodine ‘pools’ (stores) if not taken daily – Chan: 2014. For optimal Iodine synthesis and thyroid hormone conversion, it should be combined with Selenium. Tyrosine + Zinc (Van Zanden: 2014) *In the form of Fluoride and Chloride; Fluorine is also in Teflon kitchen utensils. **There are six non-gaseous halogens and seven gaseous one (such as Helium, Neon Argon) ***A goitre is seen as a swelling in the neck as the thyroid gland (which lies either side of the trachea) seeks to obtain greater blood flow for Thyroid Stimulating Hormone (TSH), Iodine – or the thyroid is inflamed due to lymphocytic infiltrate from autoimmune thyroiditis. **** Angiotensin receptor blockers (ARB’s) and ACE Inhibitors Copyright – Anthony Pearce Trichology 2018 (Revised 2019).

AUTUMN HAIR & SCALP PROBLEMS It’s Fall and the most common questions the World Trichology Society hears are about hair-loss, scalp issues and cosmetic hair problems at this time of the year. I have written some answers and suggestions we make for these questions.

Question: Does more hair fall in the Fall?

Ask yourself the following question if you notice more fall in the Fall: “Do I have extra hair loss at this time of the year every year?”. If the answer is yes, then you probably have what is known as ‘seasonal hair loss’ and it could be normal for you; however, if the answer is no, or the hair loss is more excessive than usual, then it may be due to other reasons. If you think your hair loss is excessive then see a hair loss specialist for a consultation.

Question: More dandruff falls on your shoulders in the Fall?

This is a very common problem and is often due to weather changes. During the Fall the temperature and humidity decrease causing the scalp to lose moisture. This can lead to an increase in scalp flaking and irritation. Sometimes there is also a little flaking and redness along the hair line and in the eyebrows. People with an oily scalp are actually more likely to have this problem. Wash your hair more often to remove the dandruff build up and to keep the scalp clean. Also turn your humidifier on at home, especially at night, to help put more moisture in the air.

Question: Limper hair in the Fall?

During the summer, the hair absorbs moisture from the air and, if it is naturally curly to begin with, it will become wavy and have more body. When the Fall comes, the humidity drops and so less moisture is available causing the hair to go limper. This problem often occurs if your hair is damaged or too dry. Use a conditioner every time you wash your hair and also use a deep conditioning treatment on a regular basis to trap the correct level of moisture into your hair. IHA


32 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019

To Grow or Not to Grow

Personal care companies have always been cautious about the hair growth claims they make. Low level laser light manufacturers were particularly careful to avoid “growth” claims until their had completed clinical trials and been cleared by the FDA. Health and wellness supplements and herbal remedies on the other hand are largely unregulated. How this gray area is managed is left very much up to the marketing and sales departments of these companies and they take very different approaches in their advertising. This can be seen in these extracts from “Your Tango,” a popular health and lifestyle website The following article was headed, “20 Best Shampoos for Hair Growth Of 2020,” with the subtitle, “Get the length you want, a few washes at a time.” It continued, “Many of us feel like our hair is never growing, or just not growing fast enough. It can be daunting when we’re pondering methods for how to grow hair faster and come up short. When this happens, we may want to turn to products that stimulate hair growth. And while there are plenty of prescription-based formulas to try, it’s also a good idea to see if an easier-to-grab drugstore aisle one works first.”

Here are four examples of shampoo messaging from the website in no particular order:

To Grow Keune Care Derma Activate Shampoo Keune Care Derma Activate rejuvenates thinning hair and stimulates growth. This segment for temporary hair loss features Rejuvenator Technology, which penetrates the scalp cells, ensuring that liposomes gradually transfer essential minerals, biotin and hair growth stimulants like takanal and caffeine.

Honeydew Hair Loss Shampoo Advanced hair loss formula consists of Evening Primrose, Sesame, and Rosemary regrowth oil to support healthy hair growth and restore thicker, fuller hair.

To Create an Environment Pai-Shau Replenishing Hair Cleanser Pai-Shau Replenishing Hair Cleanser is a vegan, cruelty-free, and tea-infused cleanser that works on both hair and scalp. Along with a unique combination of vitamins and minerals, the cleanser’s Signature Tea Complex works to create a healthy environment for hair growth that’s deeply infused hair with moisture.

To Add the Look Foligain Triple Action Shampoo Gently removes build-up to rejuvenate hair, invigorate the scalp, and add the look of fullness and body. Infuse your tresses with key nutrients, including triple action Trioxidil complex, biotin, fruit stem cells, plus powerful herbals and extracts. To see all 20 featured shampoos, visit https://www.yourtango.com/2019329623/how-grow-hair-faster-20-best-shampoos-for-hairgrowth-2020

IHA


Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 33

Barbershop, Beauty Parlor, Hair Styling Salon

#4 in Top Hazardous Jobs for Injuries New York, November 2019 – Injuries to retail workers cause employees to miss an average of 24 days from work, according to claims data analyzed by AmTrust Financial Services, Inc., an insurance solutions company for small commercial business and specialty risk. The most hazardous classes are (1) meat, fish, or poultry retail, (2) hardware, (3) automobile parts and accessories NOC (not otherwise classified) & drivers (4) barbershop, beauty parlor or hair styling salon.

• The average loss paid is greater for men ($11,641) than women ($7,030). • Among the top ten injuries, almost a quarter (23%) of the payout is associated with lifting. • Age is correlated to highest average payouts: the greater the age, the greater the average payout.

Photo caption: Mug from TeeHerivar.com

Barbershop, beauty parlor, or hair styling salon:

Common injuries for barbers and hairstylists involve the shoulders and thumbs. The repetitive nature of this occupation, using scissors, shavers and razors for many hours a day can easily lead to injury in the upper extremities. Trips, slips and falls are also a major cause of injury for these workers who often walk on wet, slippery floors with a great deal of tripping hazards from styling utensil cords. The Retail Risk Report found that the top three injuries with highest average payout are: • Fall or slip from ladder or scaffolding: $21,000 • Strain or injury by repetitive motion: $14,000 • Motor vehicle collision with another vehicle: $13,900

“Analyzing three-years of data gave us new insights into why people in retail miss work, what kind of injuries are the worst or most expensive for employers, and how long it takes for an employee to return to work,” said Matt Zender, Senior Vice President, Workers’ Compensation Strategy, at AmTrust. “It reinforced our belief that training – in both operations and safety -- is essential in the retail sector, especially for younger workers where we tend to see more workers’ compensation claims.” The Retail Risk Report identifies common retail workers’ injuries and lost time in the workplace based on more than 20,000 workers’ compensation insurance claims from 2016 to 2018 by the company’s retail clients with loss payments. IHA


34 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019

Just Say No! To Saving Money by Hiring Technicians to Perform Your Hair Transplant Surgery By John Vincent I recently received an email solicitation today from a company that advertises the availability of “certified” hair transplant technicians. Part of the presentation from this company about providing staff to doctors or “clinics” for the delivery of hair surgery, is a news program clip explaining how one doctor promotes his practice for hair transplantation. The clip features the use of a (robotic machine) and touts this product’s ability to provide superior hair transplants when compared to the “old fashioned” technique of “strip” extraction. The doctor is on camera explaining the superiority of the procedure; offering faster healing and a less conspicuous evidence of extracted hair after the machine’s use compared with strip surgery. The video implies that the results of the (robotic machine) provides Follicular Unit Extraction (FUE) vs the dissection of the “strip” (FUT), implying FUE is superior. This is a gross exaggeration of the facts. As much as it is a technical procedure, hair surgery is an art form. Simply put, it depends “In whose hands” hair transplantation surgery is performed that determines the outcome of a poor vs good, vs excellent result.

A couple of glaring issues arose when I viewed this video: • The video does not show the doctor actually performing ANY of the surgery. Instead, we see several

of what seem to be technicians… ostensibly the “certified” ones offered in the email solicitation… perform the operation. • In fact, the clip shows apparent non-doctors drilling into the scalp and removing hair and tissue from the patient. The doctor featured, we are told, makes the recipient sites for the extracted hair to be inserted, but we never see the surgeon actually performing. Rather, he is shown with rubber gloves, seemingly sorting some grafts on the back of his covered hand!

So, here are my concerns:

• The video actually states, “The machine does it all”. • Several states forbid a non-doctor, registered nurse or physician’s assistant, from cutting or puncturing the skin (or administering anesthesia). The email presentation does not refer to providing this level of medical staff. If this video portrayed this in a state such as Florida, it would be illegal. • It is misleading… false, really… to say that all strip removal methods leave obvious scars. This video implies they do. It is also a lie to say that follicular unit graft removal leaves no scars. In actuality, all extractions of tissue leave scars. In the case of FUE’s, tissue removal from machine or hand punch devices result in hundreds or thousands of small scars left from the surgery. • The patient in one video says the FUE procedure is less painful than a strip extraction. Not true. I’ve had a dozen procedures. All punctures of the skin have to heal and are tender. However, proper medication eliminates or minimizes pain from either surgery. • The biggest misrepresentation of this clip… beside the fact that technicians are not qualified and legally able to perform surgery… is that improper harvesting of donor hair by machine-driven extraction can damage surrounding tissue to the point that inadequate donor hair supply will be left to provide the amount of hair needed to complete a proper hair restoration.


Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019 35 In my book, “Hair Loss Dossier: on the Causes, Cures, Hair surgeons advise me of the many pictures they share Treatments and Scams�, blog posts and Hair Loss Dossier with other doctors of victims of patients traveling to foreign Podcast, we bring the experts together to present the facts countries for cheaper surgeries. The main complaint is that and dispel the myths about hair transplant surgery and why untrained doctors or technicians damage a great deal of untrained surgeons and non-qualified surgery technicians are potential donor hair in their efforts to remove the required NOT a safe or recommended method of receiving a good grafts promised. hair transplantation result. These contributors explain that So, a person who might have say, six-thousand or more the basics of FUE hair transplantation may be explained in a usable follicles for a long-term plan, might receive a large weekend course, but the experience gained from training by portion of that in one procedure out of the country, only to qualified hair surgeons, notably members of the International find their entire area of donor Society of Hair Restoration hair is compromised for any Surgery and board-certified “As much as it is a technical procedure, hair additional surgeries. For more Fellows of the American, surgery is an art form. Simply put, it European, Asian or South about that problem, listen to American hair restoration surmy new Hair Loss Dossier depends “In whose hands� hair gery societies are the essential transplantation surgery is performed that Podcast pilot episode which sources of learning the “gold includes an interview with standard� of this discipline. determines the outcome of a Dr. Marco Barusco, renowned poor vs good, vs excellent result.� hair restoration physician in Donor hair is a precious Port Orange, Florida. resource. No one can afford to waste the hair available for transplantation as a result of a poorly planned or executed surgery. Nor should he/she subject themselves to a result that, instead of providing natural results, would be one of disfiguration and unsightly scarring.

World Trichology Society Scientific Conference

For more information email me at JohnVincent@hairconsultant.com. I’ll even send you a free copy of my book if you request one. I hope you will visit and “LIKE� my Facebook page, John Vincent’s Hair Loss Dossier. IHA

Orlando, Florida - March 1-2, 2020

Â?Â?  Â? ­ € Â?­Â‚ ­ ƒ „ …†­Â? ‡Â?Â? ˆ‰ Š „ Š „ Â? ‹ Â? Â? ‰ Š ÂŒ Â? ÂŽ † ‘ ÂŒ Â’ How this is different: • Be the first to discover the most advanced hair management solutions. • Explore latest research with the analysts themselves. • Only conference that covers all hair care solutions including; cosmetic, medical, non-medical, pharmaceutical, homeopathic & light therapy. Topics include; Healthy Scalp Maintenance, Finasteride – Side effects, How European hair is different, Biostem - Clinical Trials, Living with Trichotillomania, Stem cell and cell based treatments, Hair color and personality, Proteoglycans as treatment for hair loss, Using Oriental Medicine, Medical tourism - a warning, Connecting with today’s consumer‌ The World Trichology Society conference will include presentations from some of the best-known names in trichology and hair-loss research. It will be ideal for networking, learning about new research, experience-sharing, and discussions of ways to direct the public to qualified professionals.

For more information and registration  � ��


36 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2019

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