KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE. DECEMBER 2018

KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE

Peace

Illustration by Aistė Ambrazevičiūtė

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This is one of the 37 pictures by Dogu Bankov currently displayed at the Žmuidzinavičius House. Read more about the exhibition called “I am the enemy you killed, my friend” on page 34.

There are many centenaries marked in the calendar of 2018. As will be the upcoming year, and a few after, because at the very beginning of 1919, Kaunas which had unexpectedly become the capital, was turned into a playfield of experiments and tests for those who we call the entrepreneurs today. The first shuttle buses, the first concert, the first ice hockey match, the first champions and so on. But there will be opportunities to talk about all that, next year. In this issue, we would like to pause and express the gratitude for having a place where we can spend the holidays and celebrate them according to our calendar, our customs and our fashions.

For a safe Christmas Ironically, a hundred years ago during his first speech the first Lithuanian prime minister Augustinas Voldemaras claimed that large budget for a newborn country’s defence will be unnecessary because, “We are not at war with anyone and none of our neighbours - Germans, Polish, Ukrainians, Russians or Latvians - have any reason to attack us.” It is ironic because, at the time, the first government didn’t even have a National defence minister and the six appointed ministers were also issued revolvers. And there is probably no need to remind you what happened a few months after that.

In this holiday issue, we talk about these hundred-year-old events and their echoes with a Norwegian who fell in love with Kaunas and a Canadian residing in Vilnius. We spoke to the vice-minister of national defence who loved playing basketball at school, about the ways to strengthen Lithuania’s security right now as well as in the future. The former longtime head of Kaunas Garrison Officers’ Club Ramovė told us what it means to be

a soldier and set an example for the younger generation. We also talked to the new head about the role of Ramovė in the 21st century.

By the way, Jonas Jablonskis was the one who coined the word “Ramovė”, and this is already the second Lithuanian word for which we must be grateful to him. What is the first one you ask?

“Penktadienis” (Friday). And it marks the beginning of the weekend which can be spent at the Vytautas Magnus War Museum. In this issue, will also talk about it and its lions that are celebrating their 80th anniversary in this issue. Is it possible to discuss war and peace without visiting the fortress surrounding Kaunas? No way. So, that is where we shall start. And in the end, you will find the events of the most festive month of the year - not necessarily the most expensive, but undoubtedly the most valuable.

Well then - have a safe one! See you next year - the year of the Temporary capital.

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Something that surrounds us, and at the same time is entirely unnoticeable. When thinking about what makes the city unique, Kaunas fortress - born out of anticipation of the World War I – keeps popping into mind.

You will be able to read more about the significance of the end of the century further in the magazine because here, we will talk about that “something”.

At the end of the 19th century, with the Russian and German relations deteriorating, the empire turned to Kaunas, perhaps the most western part of the Russian Empire. A city located at the confluence of two large rivers, with important railway lines and great infrastructure was supposed to become a dominant defence point.

A quick way to discover Kaunas fortress Algirdas Šapoka

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The 4th fort. Picture by Donatas Žvirblis / niekonaujo.lt

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On the 7th of July, 1879 Russian Emperor Alexander II approved the military leadership’s proposal to build a fortress in Kaunas. Even much of the current urban population have no clue about the scale of this engineering project: all of Kaunas was supposed to be turned into a fortress. It consisted of about 750 objects: batteries, warehouses, hospitals, churches, barracks, administrative buildings, etc. 250 have survived until today. The essential objects, i.e. forts receive the most attention.

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After the start of the anticipated conflict, Kaunas fortress collapsed.

Despite it being the most modern in the whole of the Russian Empire, the fortifications were breached after 11 days. Kaunas fortress was helpless in the face of rapidly developing military technology of the late nineteenth and early twentieth century especially the artillery. All attempts to modernise forts were tardy. After the war, the project lost its defensive purpose. At least 4 forts were left unfinished: Palemonas, Romainiai, Mara and Domeikava.

The current state of the forts is not great, but in the last few years, several significant and necessary steps were taken towards the preservation of this cultural heritage. There were many unsuccessful attempts to sell the forts. The break came only a few years back. At the moment, the preservation and conservation of Kaunas fortress are carried out by Kauno tvirtovės parkas (Kaunas fortress park) and Kauno tvirtovės asociacija (Kaunas fortress association). Each fort has its own crew, and they receive assistance from local volunteer communities. A first festival - one of its kind – Baterija - brought together different art branches and diverse artists - some of them for the first time - into the forts and surrounding

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objects. Right after that, Kaunas crew travelled to Venice where they attended the meeting of the European Federation of Fortified Sites Efforts. By the way, this association has an inspirational slogan, “From strongholds to welcoming arms.”

The 1st fort / Šiltnamių g., Kazliškiai The least urbanised fort, located at the most western point of the city.

Today, like several others, it has become a territory occupied by bats.

During World War I, the fort was severely damaged by German artillery.

Part of its premises is under water.

The fort was not protected during the years of Soviet occupation; therefore, it suffered no less than during the war. The fort was used for economic needs, and some of the valuable elements of the facade were dismantled. Currently, it is being

The 3rd fort. Picture by Tadas Kirda / Kaunas IN

managed - tours are held, there is a functioning equestrian center, and various events are organised. Nearby lie a breathtakingly beautiful Marvelė River valley and cascades. To protect the bat population, the visiting of all vaults of the fort is prohibited from the 1st of October until 1st of May. facebook.com/pirmasfortas The 2nd fort / Pilviškių g., Julijanava Contrary to the first fort, this one is heavily urbanised. It is surrounded by the settlements of Julijanava and Kazliškiai. The pentagonal layout of the fort has even determined their street network plan. This fort was hit the worst during the World War I. In addition to that, it was also slightly damaged during World War II, at the bombardment of Aleksotas

aerodrome. Due to several disastrous events in recent years, many entrances are closed. There are claims that due to lack of activity carried out in the fort, one could probably find soldiers’ remains and unexploded century-old warheads. Now, bats reign there too. It is not recommended to visit the fort. The territory is full of prohibitive and warning signs.

The 3rd fort / Titnago g., Seniava Compared to the first two, the 3rd fort suffered less during the conflict.

In it, you can still see some original details: doors, stairs, railing, etc.

The fort has been heavily urbanised. It is surrounded by residential neighborhoods, and part of its

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The 7th fort. Picture by Unseen Pictures / Kaunas IN

territory is privatised. Currently, it is one of the best-preserved and most used objects in Kaunas fortress. It was tidied up and transferred for the public use with the help of the local community. When bats are not wintering there, the fort is hosting various events and tours. It has a community centre and a permanent exhibition of Lithuanian army clothing. You can reach the fort territory by public transport. facebook.com/3fortas The 4th fort / Plytinės g., Rokai The leadership of the Tsar’s army hoped that this fort would have to be the first to be attacked by the enemy. However, it didn’t take much

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part in the defence. The fort has an asymmetrical, tetragonal layout. It is considered to be one of the best fortifications of its time. During the German occupation, about 4000 Jews were killed in the fort. In 19981999 the 4th fort was being cleaned and cleared for mines, but later, the works ceased due to discontinued financing. The territory was tidied up again in 2012, but part of its spaces and premises were flooded due to the damaged drainage system. Tours are organised in the fort; however, it is also forbidden to visit the territory during the cold season because of the protected bat population. facebook.com/IVfortas

The 5th fort / Alksnių g., Zuikinė This is of the most complex structures in Kaunas fortress because it was set up according to the mountainous terrain. As a result, it became one of the most expensive objects of Kaunas fortress. It was barely untouched during the WWI - only some constructions were demolished by the retreating troops. However, there was a massive explosion in the fort during the WW2, and the circumstances behind it are not precisely known. It is located right next to Kaunas lagoon, in a very picturesque spot. The fortifications are being taken care of, and the large part of the territory belongs to the active paintball club. The environment is quite wild: the fort is hard to see, both from the nearest street and the bird’s eye.

The 7th fort / Archyvo g., Kaunas Located near the Hospital of Lithuanian University of Health Sciences.

Part of the fort’s territory - trenches and mounds - are visible when driving in Sukilelių pr. No military action ever took place in the fort.

During the Nazi occupation, the first concentration camp in Lithuania was located in the 7th fort where more than 5,000 Jews were killed.

The fort suffered the most during the Soviet occupation: many original details were destroyed during a reconstruction. At the moment, the fort is privatised. It has a museum and many events as well as an informal children’s education is taking place in it. The environment is highly urbanised; a few of the busiest arteries of Kaunas are located nearby.

The 6th fort / K. Baršausko g., Kaunas The fort has hardly suffered any damage in both world wars and is therefore well preserved. During the interwar period, it served as a military prison, where the famous “Four Communards” were shot. During the WW2, about 35 thousand prisoners of war were killed there. During the Soviet period, a tank that supposedly took part in the 1944 liberation of Kaunas was exhibited nearby. Later, a small hill of crosses was set up to commemorate thousands of victims. Nowadays the fort is intensively and actively managed; it is planned to move the exhibition of military technology to the fort from Vilnius. Works are scheduled to be completed by the end of 2019, and the exposition will contain about 150 exhibits of war technology. The fort is in a busy city area and is easily accessible.

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The 8th fort / Pryšmančių g., Kaunas It was planned to build only 7 forts in Kaunas, but later on, it was decided to set up two more. This fort was built not only from red bricks but concrete as well. This is the first fort with electrical wiring. It’s funny that the fortification became useless as soon as it was built because due to the oversight it was built on a small hill, and therefore open to the enemy’s fire from nearby heights. It was abandoned an unattended for many years, until recently. A large part of the fort and even some old technology is underwater. Buildings’ inventory hasn’t been checked; they don’t belong to anyone, and a lot of the fort is not formed. It is only actively used by the locals - they have set up their gardens in the territory.

Occasionally you can attend poetry readings in the fort.

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The 1st fort. Picture by Donatas Žvirblis / niekonaujo.lt

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The 9th fort / Žemaičių pl., Kaunas The newest and the most modern fort of Kaunas fortress completed just before the WWI, is probably best known to each resident of Kaunas or anyone else travelling via highway A1. From it, you can see a monument of an impressive size built in 1984 to commemorate the victims of fascism (sculptor Alfonsas Ambraziūnas, architects G. Baravykas and V. Vielius, fine artist K. Morkūnas). During the interwar period, it served as a hard labour prison. Its prisoners were

cultivating their own vegetables. In 1940–1941 it was an NKVD prison and later a concentration camp where 30 to 50 thousand Lithuanian citizens were killed. In 1958, a museum was established in the fort, and it has been operating to this day. The museum offers guided tours and exhibits many grievous Nazi and Soviet genocide artefacts. The fort has been renewed, and almost all of its premises are available for visiting.

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The 9th fort. Picture by Unseen Pictures / Kaunas IN

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Kaunas resident Giedrimas Jeglinskas became the Vice-Minister of National Defense almost two years ago. The exciting biography of this young man consists of studies at the prestigious US Military Academy in West Point and a career in international finance that had taken him to almost all continents. Let’s agree that it is an impressive choice to return to a small country in the margins of Europe and work not only towards making its 3 million inhabitants safe but also help them understand that everyone can contribute to the creation of the sense of security. Patriotism? Foresight?

In any case, experience in the financial sector is beneficial in ensuring national security. For example, the vice-minister strives to increase the number of local producers participating in the ministry’s public procurement competitions.

He is convinced that after meeting the expectations of a country that is a NATO member inside, very serious international markets can open up. But it is not really the scope of our magazine.

On the move Kotryna Lingienė and Kęstutis Lingys Photo by Mantas Gudzinevičius

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Vice-Minister, we are very curious to know what are you working on in your office, but first, tell us how you decided to study in the US and link your life with the military.

I attended the Gymnasium of the Kaunas University of Technology, and I was surrounded by many unique people who participated in mathematics and physics olympiads.

I understood the limits of my possibilities, so I was looking for my own way. I played basketball, organised school dances. Well, simply put, the headmaster of the time, Bronislovas Burgis told me about this program.

Until then I never thought about the army. I made a call to Vilnius, by the way, to the same ministry and a woman who still works there to this day answered. She invited me to a selection. There were 15 of us. This is how the information was spread back then - no internet, no social networks.

strengthen and help them grow.

Alongside me, in West Point, there was an Estonian, a Romanian, a Slovenian and a guy from South Korea. Our studies have been funded entirely by the US government with the condition that we will have to serve in our countries after graduation. There have been cases where citizens of certain Eastern European countries were reluctant to return home.

I had to take the American exams, an English test. Essays, interview, physical fitness test. The process lasted a year. I didn’t make it the first time - no one did. And no one except me tried it the following year.

But I did. And the fact that I didn’t give up was considered a plus. Of course, the entry exam results were better too, I had written a more compelling essay. So, I left after my second year at the university. I would say it changed my life, but in fact, it was changed by KTU gymnasium.

Did you experience a cultural shock upon your return to Lithuania?

In 2003, I graduated from the Military Academy, but I immediately received a scholarship to continue my studies at Georgetown University in Washington. So, I spent two more years in the United States, and when I returned, I was appointed to the Algirdas battalion as a squad leader. After six months, I moved to the Second Operations Department for intelligence. Yes, I could have said that things are not the same here - conditions are worse, guns are worse. But it is also normal if we compare the American and Lithuanian possibilities; therefore, I didn’t have unrealistic expectations. I was impressed

by Lithuanian professionalism, sincere work, in spite of material difficulties. I wasn’t complaining. And

Is this an ongoing program for inviting students to the US military academies?

There are four military academies in the United States, with about 1200 students admitted each year, including a few foreign nationals.

The foreigners come from the countries that the US tends to support,

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Didn’t you want to stay as well?

No, I knew I had to be in my country; I have a purpose to serve it. In my entry exam essay, I wrote that this education is important to me because Lithuania will become a NATO country and it will need professional officers. My opinion has not changed. I am convinced that the United States is our primary security partner in the world. We need to aim at building an even closer relationship with the US.

Our civil society must be able to recognise fake news, information threats and understand what our army is doing.

I don’t complain now - I am here because I want to ensure the welfare of the soldiers by buying better weapons, building better barracks, providing better training grounds, public awareness. All this brings us to our primary goal - to ensure that there would be no war.

Before becoming vice-minister, you worked in the financial sector in Japan, Singapore and Australia. Did you go there to broaden your horizons or was it the outcome of disillusionment with the system?

I choose to move in life. After serving for some years, I realised that

Lithuania is small. The opportunities are exciting, but they are quite clearly defined. Brussels, Afghanistan... I have stayed in touch with my fellow students from West Point.

A large number of this school’s graduates move to other sectors, large enterprises or become entrepreneurs. I also chose this path.

I studied at Columbia University for two years, then I joined Citigroup, a company with a quarter of a million employees. From a Lithuanian point of view this might seem unique, but

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not in the context of the US. But I did not want to sit in Wall Street, even though I could have easily done it. I am a person of finance, I know this area, but it is not my passion. It was, however, fascinating. I used all the opportunities and enjoyed the moment. After Australia, I also worked in Warsaw and then moved back to Lithuania and started working at the Ministry of National Defense.

So, you just got a call from Vilnius?

When I was working in Australia, the unrest in Ukraine began. It provoked strong emotions in me. I started thinking a lot about what’s happening and that there’s a possibility it might happen in Lithuania. To clear my mind, I started writing, and my articles were published by 15min.lt.

So, I gained visibility. In 2016 - we lived in Warsaw with the family at the time - parliamentary elections took place. Milda Dargužaitė, with whom I was acquainted in New York, became the chancellor of the Government. Therefore, my CV ended up in the government. I met with the Minister of National Defense Raimundas Karoblis and Prime Minister Saulius Skvernelis.

We agreed, and I started working and never looked back.

Is this a tribute to Lithuania? After all, you could have pursued an international career.

Yes, I brought experience with me both military and financial as well as contacts. But this position also gives me the opportunity to grow because I can apply all that I’ve brought back and find new solutions.

Let’s hope they are the right ones. I don’t think I am omnipotent; the situation can change fast because it is politics after all.

In any case, I think it is an opportunity to lead your country forward.

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I believe that any state initiative these days should be based on cooperation with the private sector.

After all, we want a long-lasting and prosperous Lithuania. We want to be safe. I am convinced that this can be achieved through deterrence - it is a national security strategy. How to accomplish this? First of all, we are strengthening the army. Secondly, we are consolidating our partnership with NATO, the European Union, and the United States (this is already being done). And thirdly - our civil society must be able to recognise fake news, information threats and un-

The media has recently announced that there are plans to build three new military towns in Lithuania. Is the situation really so bad that there is a need to create, buy and invest?

We have never invested enough.

Since independence, until now, we have been allocating less than 2 per cent of GDP for defence. That difference amounts to a few billion Euro. We could have, but we didn’t invest. It is also true that the infrastructure left by the Soviets is of very poor quality, it was never maintained - there was neither finance nor demand. I am not going to hide it - it is shameful to look at. And now everyone understands that soldiers need normal, right conditions not merely to serve, but to grow as citizens.

Incidentally, what is the role of Kaunas today?

Strategically and logistically, it is a unique city. It contains such military units as military medical service and air force headquarters.

Rukla is right next to Kaunas and Karmėlava is an important point as well.

You’ve mentioned cybersecurity. We have read recently that Lithuania is leading in this area.

Whose merit is it?

All countries encounter problems in this area. There are no borders on the internet. Our policy is to strengthen internal consolidation so that we can see the whole system and solve the problems from one angle. International co-operation is also necessary because you can’t fight alone. Here, inside, there were many amendments to the law, a centre for cybernetics was established.

We cooperate with the private sector. This is very important - I believe that any state initiative these days should be based on cooperation with the private sector. After all, it all depends on the specialists. Public sector alone is not enough. And that is a much broader issue than cybersecurity. But, regarding it, what we have created in Lithuania is an example for other EU and NATO states. But there is no time to sleep because the challenges and threats in this area will only increase.

In recent years, the popularity of riflemen has grown significantly; well-known public figures join them. What is your opinion on that? Would such organisations be helpful for a state in danger?

This is a vital organisation. Riflemen play an essential role in educating civil society. And they are not necessary people with guns. In case of a conflict, one can contribute to Lithuania’s defence by fulfilling other functions. For example, guarding bridges or doing IT maintenance.

Medicine, education, public relations - all these areas require public-spirited people and riflemen are precisely that. So, first of all, I appreciate their social mission, their ability to adapt to the situation after mobilisation.

What would your role be if that day X were to come?

The roles of politicians, and hence of the vice-ministers, would be limited.

Would you go and defend Lithuania?

I think so. I am a reserve officer. I would see how I can best apply my knowledge and international experience. But I hope that day X will not come, and we can guarantee this, as I said, by deterring.

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derstand what our army is doing. We cannot be divided.

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It would be difficult to find a resident of Kaunas who wouldn’t have a picture taken near the lions proudly welcoming the visitors and passerby near Vytautas Magnus War Museum. According to people, this beautiful tradition developed during the Soviet occupation - unable to find an good location to photograph their children parents would bring them near the lions. The sculptures that have become the symbol of Kaunas were given to the museum in 1938 by the last heir of Astravas Manor in Biržai, count J. J. Tiškevičius.

The sculptures produced at the cast iron foundries of St. Petersburg in the 19th century, were given to the museum as a Christmas gift. This year marks the 80th anniversary of the Lions in Kaunas.

Vytautas Magnus War museum invites to celebrate their birthday on the 15th of December. Of course, with cake and all kinds of fun. On this occasion, we met Laura Rimkutė-Šimaitė - Vytautas Magnus War Museum’s manager of cultural activities to talk about the museum that can boast not only about their lions but also about the striking architecture of the building, rich collections and a quite telling statistics that show the high attendance of educational programs and tours for school children.

Knowledge bomb at a museum Edvinas Grin Photos by Dainius Ščiuka

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In 2017, Vytautas Magnus War Museum’s educational activities and tours alone where visited by 9883 school children, and 362 educational programs were implemented. These figures are impressive. What educational programs are the most popular?

A very popular program is called The Young General. It is a very freeand-easy activity. With the help of the educator, children are building a castle. Another popular program is How People Fought in the Ancient Times. During this educational program, children can try on hauberks, helmets and pick up a sword, which they enjoy immensely. We also have tasks for older children – it’s a program called Military Secret that requires them to decipher many puzzles. Not as popular, but still favoured by many is the Survival for Beginners program which can be especially fun during the outdoor museum events. An exciting program is Knowledge Bomb. It is a very active orienteering game, in which children run around the museum, open boxes, demine bombs and put letters into a word. It is indeed a lot of fun. We hear how they’re running around while at our office with the colleagues.

Isn’t it a bit scary that such movement is taking place in the museum, this “serious” place, in which, the previous generations were taught to behave, not speak too loudly, etc.?

No, not at all. We specifically want to change this image of a museum.

We want the young generation and children not to experience these old associations, that this place is sacred and nothing can be touched, and one mustn’t speak loudly. We want the museum to become a great place to visit and spend time; a place where you can not only see things,

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Our primary goal is to develop patriotic personalities.

but also play, and participate in entertaining events.

Of course, the museum should retain its academic side - the function of preserving and accumulating its valuables, but in addition to that, it should implement entertaining and educational activities. It’s not enough for a modern person to just see things - he also wants to touch, to hear and to smell. He wants to experience the diverse content via various senses. Therefore, the museum must go beyond the standard perception, to offer reproductions and copies for a tactile experience.

The integration of innovative technologies is essential - screens, virtual reality entertainment and other attractive tools. The museum must change and become an inviting and open place for events. Some people want to have fun and others to learn - the museum should meet everyone’s expectations.

The children really like it, they are willing to get involved. Programs are especially active. Once, a group of children, not parents or teachers, as usual, called us and booked an educational program. We were pleasantly surprised. Of course, we also have

more serious programs - about partisan weapons or the Cold War. They are for senior students of grades 9-12.

Often, our educational programs are tailored to school curriculums. Our museum is very suitable for history lessons. After all - it contains the whole history of Lithuania. This is perfect supplementary material for teachers. We also welcome many tours from other cities. Sometimes there are so many that I have to take up a position of a guide, although, it is not a part of my job.

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What do children like most?

What are their favourite expositions?

Of course, the Lituanica hall is always the most interesting one. After all, this story is our nation’s pride.

Children know it from a very early age. Sometimes they climb the stairs of the museum, see the hall where the legendary wreckage is displayed and recognise it immediately. Everyone knows this heroic story.

Children also like the weapon halls, and we let them hold the exhibits.

Sometimes it seems that children know much more about them from computer games than us [laughs].

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As far as computer games are concerned, the museum has a virtual reality headset. How do you apply it to educational programs?

Virtual reality headset is not a part of educational programs but a part of the exposition. Any visitor can come and use it. We can offer some virtual reality games. This is both a favourite of children and parents.

There are so many of those who want to use the headset that sometimes people have to wait in line.

Also, we often use this tool for our outdoor events. This is a popular tool that helps to engage people.

Do you also have weekend activities for families with small children?

Yes, we strive to occupy individual visitors, families who come to the museum and want to have a quality time. Since the numbers of such visitors increase on weekends - a sort of known family time - in the summer of 2017 we had the idea to offer various activities free of charge on weekends from 2pm until 4pm. They are continually changing and are tailored to topicalities and needs of our visitors. First of all, they are often adapted to essential dates (for example, the National Aviation Day of Partisan Commemoration Day) and topicalities (the weekend is dedicated to Pope’s visit, etc.). However, we also have a regular weekend package. Our new colouring and task books are featuring fun soldiers of various eras, guide children through history. This way, children get acquainted with the Museum’s exposition playfully.

In general, a variety of workshops are popular among children - clay moulding, drawing, colouring, making model aeroplanes. Undoubtedly, these activities are related to the history of Lithuania and warfare.

Another weekend activity consists of games. They range from board games to building blocks and orienteering games. These are the battle of ships, war game, historical cards made by us, memory game with military degrees, puzzles depicting war paintings and large building blocks favoured by our smallest visitors with which they

can build a castle, fortifications or a throne. These games are not made for one person; therefore, parents often play with their children. We also organise more active games, such as orienteering that helps you get acquainted with the exposition better.

In addition to the lions celebrating their 80th anniversary or visits to Vytautas Magnus War Museum, Kaunas residents have a special place in their hearts for the War Museum’s garden. For decades the area has been attracting different communities ranging from intelligentsia to skateboarders, jazz lovers and street artists. Does it help or disturb the museum’s image and visibility?

Since the interwar period, when this garden was formed, it was an active place. From the very beginning, it served as our country’s pantheon. It contains the monument for those who died fighting for Lithuania’s freedom and the tomb of the unknown soldier - it is like our nation’s shrine. In the interwar period, this was a national and communal place where events and meetings took place. The garden itself was a beautiful place, roses were growing. The founder of the museum, V. Nagevičius had a tradition to give roses to girls, who come to the garden dressed in traditional clothes.

From the very beginning, it was a meeting place for townspeople. During the Reform movement, it served as a place for various protests, events and celebrations. Later the garden was discovered by skateboarders and Kaunas Jazz. And it doesn’t disturb the museum - on the contrary - it is nice to see people having a good time there. During the city’s events, we also conduct out educational activities and events in the garden. I am glad that the place is being actively used to this day.

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What do you aim for when creating educational programs?

Our primary goal is to develop patriotic personalities.. We do this with a variety of tools, introducing the history of warfare and the whole of Lithuania. We want to educate a young person to know his/her history, respect his/her country, nation’s achievements and traditions.

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Yotvingian in Kaunas

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Major Donatas Mazurkevičius is a Yotvingian public figure and the former head of the Kaunas Garrison Officers’ Club Ramovė. He’s also the founder of the stone museum Jotvingių kiemas (Yotvingian yard) and since 2010 also known as Vytautas the Great in films and stagings of the Battle of Grunwald.

Julija Račiūnaitė Photos by Teodoras Biliūnas

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You are not originally from Kaunas, but from Dzūkija. Tell us more about your Yotvingian roots.

When we talk about Yotvingians and Dzūkai, we should also mention the land of Dainava. This is a beautiful and resonant word. Yotvingian tribe is the old, autochthonous tribe of the area and I really feel like I am a part of these people. The features of Yotvingians can be found in the character and mentality of the local people. It is a tribe of priests, artists and warriors.

Do you miss Yotvingians in Kaunas?

You don’t miss anything in Kaunas because it’s a very vibrant city, and it is located in an incredibly convenient location geographically. This city has its own face, just because it gets an equal share of all the regions.

You could say that from the 9th fort Samogitia starts, Karmėlava is the beginning of Aukštaitija, Vaišvydava is one step away to Dzūkija and Sūduva starts after Aleksotas. Culturally, Kaunas is also a peculiar core of all the regions that are relatively small but very different.

Let’s go back to Dzūkija for a short while. I have read that you are the founder of Southern Lithuanian daily life and stone museum Jotvingių kiemas. How did you come up with the idea for such a museum?

I grew up on an isolated farmstead and never went to kindergarten.

You could say I spent the first seven years of my life on a real reserve.

Only when I came to the first grade did I realise that there was such thing as the Soviet Union. When I was a child, and we travelled to another town, after crossing the boundary of Kalvarija municipality I asked whether that is where the

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Soviet Union ended. At the time, my consciousness was entirely pure, unspoiled and for that, I am grateful to my family and the place I grew up in.

But anyway, even a child needs something to do on the farmstead!

I noticed that our place of residence was full of various historical signs.

I began to collect fossils – plant or animal remains preserved in a petrified form. As I say – everything we need, either people or the earth has.

At the age of 15, I left the farmstead and went to Kaunas to study forestry. After graduation, I worked as a driver on a collective farm. I would transport stones to builders. I remember how I regretted that the rocks will be buried in the foundation pit – I found them so beautiful. That is when I fell in love with stones and boulders. When Lithuania became independent, and my parents regained a small plot of land, I decided to set up a stone museum called Jotvingių kiemas (Yotvingian yard) there. Why yard?

Because it is the territory of the smallest cell in society – a family.

I consider 1990 to be the year of the foundation of the Yotvingian yard.

What is the most valuable exhibit for you in this museum?

One of them is the quern–stone from Yotvingian times given to me by people. By the way, I collect my exhibits outside Lithuania too. I like to bring rocks from pilgrimages.

You go on pilgrimages?

Yes, I have brought back stones from Lourdes, Armenia. I tried to bring a stone from Malta. I put it in my backpack, but they took it away at the airport.

The fight at the level of the mind where the thoughts are born is more important than the one that is taking place in the battlefield where bullets fly.

What made you choose the army and officer’s career?

I chose this profession after completing my fourth year of studies. At the time, in 1988, the Reform Movement of Lithuania began, and the country was full of life.

After the practice in the collective farm, the 90s came, and I went to the army. I was young then, 21 years old. If anyone asks why not earlier – after all, the Lithuanian army was reborn only on January 13th, during the defence of the TV tower, when voluntary national defence was established. I became its member on the 1st of November, 1991 and gave the oath of allegiance on the 20th of December in Alytus, the capital of Dainava.

How do you think Lithuanian army has changed and developed since its reestablishment in 1991?

I have been serving for 27 years already, so I saw the development with my own eyes and participated in many events. Our army evolved from an idea to the full NATO member. It doesn’t matter that we are not big according to specific parameters – we are still effective and full-fledged participants in this bloc. Therefore, in response to the question, the leap was huge, and it was exciting to live in this period of transition.

Probably all of my service was devoted to culture rather than cannons and rifles. The great wise man and war strategist Sun Tzu argued

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During the last 8 years of my service, I was the head of Kaunas Garrison Officers’ Club Ramovė, and now I work in the Strategic Communication and Public Affairs Department in Vilnius. My job is to maintain public relations. Strengthening each other is an essential task. The defence will not be successful if most of the citizens will not support the idea. When on the Baltic Way we decided to leave the Union, Gorbachev ordered to collect all the hunting rifles from people. He was afraid of ordinary citizens who joined hands all the way from Vilnius to Tallinn and announced, “We are leaving.

Goodbye.”

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that the smartest thing is to attack the enemy’s plans and only then his allies. Later you can attack the enemy on the field and only after that his fortified cities. I would just add that even before the plans one should attack the enemy’s consciousness – after all, there is ongoing information warfare. Hence, our consciousness must be prepared for such attacks. So, for most of my career, I worked with the awareness of soldiers, their culture, with the military and public relations. It is essential to educate the soldiers who come from different families and various social environments.

Thus, the fight at the level of the mind where the thoughts are born is more important than the one that is taking place in the battlefield where bullets fly.

What works accomplished in the Officers’ Club you consider to be the most significant?

I became the head of Kaunas Garrison Officers’ Club Ramovė in June of 2010.

The Ramovė itself was established in 1919, and the palace was built in 1937. In the interwar period, President

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So far, I have impersonated Vytautas the Great 9 times.

A. Smetona wanted to create a new Lithuanian nobility from the officers.

By the way, this idea was working pretty well. To become an officer, you had to pass a large selection. The selected ones were thoroughly educated, studied in Europe and when building a family, they had to marry only an educated and well–reputed woman.

Now that we are living in more democratic times, I, having consulted with the community, decided that we should seek (even if we leave the historically justified word “officers” in the title) the club to become the Ramovė of soldiers. I am glad that all the soldiers including the private ones can now get married in Ramovė.

Another democratic decision – we have turned the club into the meeting place for military and the public. Ramovė has become an excellent platform for collaboration, sharing ideas, suggestions, struggles and joys. Here, the public gets acquainted with soldiers and Ramovė’s hall has become one of the most actively used in the city.

Also, we have always strived for Ramovė to stay open to various ideas. We have managed two mounds.

We would annually remove shrubs, worthless trees and organized festivities there twice a year together with the students of Lithuanian Sports University, Riflemen association, local community, horses borrowed from an equestrian centre, folklore, and students; we would commemorate the Battle of Saule and during the Pancake Day we would build a fire in the forest and cook pancakes.

There is an active women’s monastery near the other mound managed by us – located in Old Trakai, the birthplace of Cardinal Juozas Bačkis. Lithuanian, Swiss and French nuns live and work there. We have cleaned their environment too, cleared the brush. We had even organised a theatrical reading of Duke Gediminas’ letters addressed to Pope John XXII. The director chose me for the role of the pope, and my colleague from Ramovė acted as Gediminas. We invited students and Kaunas Garrison Church choir – it all went splendidly. There wouldn’t be enough space in Ramovė for such events. All this activity is based on a fundamental idea – the beautiful and orderly palace is not enough, there has to be life in it.

The last topic: Vytautas the Great and battle staging.

I am pleased that in 2010, during the 600th anniversary of the Battle of Grunwald, Lithuania managed to obtain the right for a Lithuanian – a representative of the nation, who would be proud of the role, his rulers nation and history – to play the role of Vytautas in the great reconstruction of the battle. I consider it a certain diplomatic victory, after all, Lithuanian language and calls were heard on the battlefield.

This role demanded a huge selection with the participation of many

nationalities: Polish and Belarussians wanted to be Vytautas as well. I was selected by 15 people. So far, I have impersonated Vytautas the Great 9 times. I would also like to participate in the 610th anniversary of the Battle of Grunwald which will take place in 2020.

I have developed the following formula for being on a historical battlefield: participation in the Battle of Grunwald means “2 x 35”, i.e. 35 kg in weight and 35 degrees in the temperature. In this situation, you experience how difficult it is to control the horse, how you’re unable to hear anything because you’re wearing a helmet. It is a huge risk because the shots are being fired and horses are shying. To withstand all this, you need to have at least a basic physical preparation, but motivation is paramount. In fact, many people would never participate in this “circus”, bet when you’re doing it voluntarily and proudly – things are different. Since I have graduated from Vytautas Magnus University with a degree in history, this theoretical and practical knowledge basis provides a fresh look at the historical events.

And regarding the roles – I have had the opportunity to play Vytautas the Great in the 2017 Polish film Armor and Habit based on real facts. And in the film, I Laid My Heart to the Ground by Ramunė Kudzmanaitė I played two Lithuanian generals of the interwar period. In the scene of the last session of independent Lithuania, I played the role of a squad general Kazys Musteikis. By the way, I asked the people who were making this film if I will be required to smoke. I was reassured that the general was a non– smoker. Besides, I had to say these words in the film, “I am for the armed resistance of the state.” I am glad that I shared the same worldview with my character.

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Theatres and proving grounds Justė Vyšniauskaitė Photos by Teodoras Biliūnas

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The building of Kaunas Garrison Officers’ Club Ramovė is still surrounded by the interwar period aura. After entering the gorgeous Grand Hall, Vytautas the Great salon, President’s room and the Hall of Dukes, you can see authentic art deco furniture and decor elements, impressive murals and at least for a moment find yourself surrounded by the motley life of the First Republic. But Ramovė is not just a building frozen in time. We discussed the continuity of this institution’s traditions, its future and the leisure time of the officers with the current head of Ramovė, Gediminas Macijauskas.

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October 18 this year marked a new stage of life both for you and the Garrison Officers’ Club Ramovė. What encouraged you to become the head of this institution?

I occasionally dealt with the work of Ramovė while serving in the army.

Before my last post, after which I transferred to the reserve, I have worked for half a year with the project of such institutions. I also took part in the establishment of Klaipėda’s Ramovė, and therefore, knew quite a bit about this activity, and I had ideas. Before that, I also took part in the restoration of Kaunas’ Ramovė. At the time, it was going through a rough period, there were thoughts of privatising it, although it was the officers

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who had paid for its construction in the interwar period. Therefore, we tried to contribute to the restoration of Ramovė not only with thoughts but also with work and funds.

The system has changed recently.

For a long time, the position of Ramovė’s head was a military post, but it is not the case anymore. The state service situation was equalised in Vilnius, Kaunas and Klaipėda. When I transferred to the reserve three years ago, I started to think how else could I realise myself until the actual pension. In spring, I have passed the general skills’ tests for civil service and looked for open positions. I applied for this one, and I was selected.

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How did you decide to link your life with the army?

I never thought of serving in the army.

However, in 1991 During the January events, I had to be in the parliament where I took an oath. I am from Kaunas, so after the events in Vilnius, I also participated in the protection of Kaunas City Municipality. That was the beginning, and then I went to the army.

I started to serve on January 4, 1993, but actually, it all began much earlier, maybe even before the January events.

What kind of young people would you like to see in the ranks of the Lithuanian army?

Before entering the reserve, I was the commanding officer at the military medical office. I was directly faced with the health of young men who come to the army. So, first of all, I would want to see them strong and healthy... also intelligent and educated. It is vital that they are able to work with modern military equipment and high technology and are motivated to defend their homeland. Motivation is crucial.

One of the most important goals of the Kaunas Garrison Officers’ Club has always been to maintain a connection between Lithuanian soldiers and the public. Do you also find this mission important?

First of all, I want to emphasise that officers are also part of society. Not to mention the youth who come to the army for only nine months. The difference between an officer and a civilian is virtually indistinguishable. Why is it important if the young person is wearing a uniform or not? A young officer may be busier, he is studying for a purpose, and he also needs a break. Therefore, Ramovė should not only be a place of entertainment but education as well - both for soldiers and civilians.

The events here must be of excellent quality so that everyone can learn something new and gain knowledge.

It is vital for us that the public wouldn’t fear the soldier. Having a

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dialogue between people with and without uniforms is necessary. The public should see the uniform, communicate with the soldier and learn about his life. People should also know where the army spends its money. A civilian should understand that the soldier who spends two weeks a month in a training area, is determined to give his/her life for the citizen whose taxes support the Lithuanian army. Therefore, the link between soldiers and the rest of society is necessary.

What role does culture play in a soldier’s life?

Although soldiers, especially young ones, spend a lot of time in training areas they still manage to return to their families. Like any other citizen, they go to the movies, theatres and concerts. There isn’t that much difference between the leisure time of an officer and a civilian. Of course, this is my personal opinion.

Ramovė provides the military personnel with more choices. There is a possibility to visit various events: exhibitions, lectures and concerts. Hence, Ramovė is an essential institution for the army, precisely regarding culture and art.

What is your future vision of Ramovė?

I would like to see it full of people and not only the uniformed ones but also civilians spending time with their families; I want a person to be able to drop by knowing about the events and willing to communicate with the soldiers.

Ramovė should be more active concerning its program. We shouldn’t wait until someone comes and organises an event - we should take the initiative.

Starting next year, we will begin regular event series: presentations of Ramovė itself, perhaps lectures about military history. At first, it will take place once a month, but if there is a need,

Perhaps Kaunas’ Ramovė, following the example of Vilnius, could organise movie nights related to historical or military topics. Also, in collaboration with the theatre, Ramovė could organise some theatre stagings on patriotic issues. However, to hold such events, appropriate lighting and sounding equipment are required.

Much can be done with what we have now, but the quality will suffer inevitably. As one respectable colonel would say, “Each plan that is not backed by money is a hallucination.” I think that with the stable funding of the army that was promised by political parties, some money will be allocated to Ramovė and it will recover. However, we will certainly not sit idly by ourselves, in spite of there being additional funding or not.

Ramovė has a few art groups, sports and military history clubs.

What are the specifics and prospects of these organisations?

All these organisations have their own niche. History club is frequented by people who look for information about military history in the archives trying to restore the details of clothing, organise stagings and present them to the public. Perhaps it will not be attractive to everyone, but there are some enthusiasts brought together by the club. The same can be said of other collectives.

They shouldn’t all be the same as tin soldiers. No matter what area the soldier would like to realise his potential in, Ramovė should provide the opportunities, and that is what these clubs are doing.

The history of Ramovė began in 1919. This place flourished in the interwar period and was reborn with the Reform movement. What

traditions of this institution are most precious to you personally?

The representative function of Ramovė is critical to me. The Commander of the Armed Forces can always arrange the reception of foreign leaders and diplomats here. Therefore, continuing with the tradition, we have a goal to restore the old name of Ramovė, “The Representative Palace of Ramovė.”

The club’s accessibility to the soldiers is also crucial to me. For example, even if a soldier wants to commemorate an anniversary, relax or exercise, Ramovė should take him in.

In addition to all that, the building is an architectural monument. It is surrounded by a serious atmosphere that helps shape the image of the army.

On November 23, we commemorated the centenary of the Lithuanian Army. In the context of this solemn occasion, I would like to ask what every citizen of our country should know about the Lithuanian Army?

I would mostly emphasise the history of Lithuania. Every child should know not only about the centenary but also about the millenary and much more. People should get thoroughly acquainted with the development of our state. History helps us understand who we are and how we got to the current state. That is how the country’s spirit is created, and each citizen can feel important to his country. I have a mother and also a homeland. There is no escape from that. That is how true patriotism is born - from the wish to give something to your family and your country.

Finally, I would like to mention the soldier’s oath. Every citizen should understand that the soldier is determined to give up his life for him.

The highest level of commitment to one’s country is reflected in a person’s pledge to sacrifice his life for the state and its people.

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then more often. You want young people to know that there is always a lecture at a given time so they could come to listen.

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What does November 11 mean to you?

St. Martin’s Day - suggests the calendar.

The first Lithuanian government headed

by Augustinas Voldemaras was announced on that day in 1918. Also, this year, the day marked the centenary of Polish Independence which we had episodically commemorated. The anniversary of the Armistice of Compiègne or the end of WWI received much less attention this year. A few articles in the media, several thoughts on it in social networks; but even those were shared only by Lithuanians living abroad or historians researching this period. And last but not least, the exhibition titled “I am the enemy you killed, my friend” was opened at A. Žmuidzinavičius Creations and Collections Museum. This is what we read in an invitation that forced to trade the Sunday slumber into the walk on V. Putvinskio Street.

The right to paintings and poems Gunars Bakšejevs Photos by Teodoras Biliūnas

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Keith Moody

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Gøran Andreas Ohldieck

“This exhibition is based on the texts that British composer Benjamin Britten (1913–1976) (Baron Britten of Aldeburgh, OM CH) used for his War Requiem from 1962, written for the (re-) consecration of Coventry Cathedral.

The 37 pictures follow the text without being direct illustrations.

Even the Biblical references have been ‘taken out of time’ to indicate that the feelings of anger and hatred is not limited to the world wars alone but, unfortunately, to every day of our existence.

The texts from the Requiem are the Latin “Missa pro Defunctis” and some of Wilfred Owen’s war poems.

These two texts stand in sharp contrast to each other. The Latin mass is the bearer of tradition and the unalterable belief in the unity in Heaven. Owen’s poems, written by a soldier aged 25 who were shot dead one week – almost to the hour – before the armistice on November 11, 1918.”

Having studied the paintings by Dogu Bankov – the artist of Bulgarian origin mystically connected to Lithuania (I recommend reading a bohemian detective Originalas by Tomas Kavaliauskas, which was previously presented in the magazine’s

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Merkurijus rubric) we climbed up to Žmuidzinavičius’ living room. Here, we sat down to talk about the relationship between war, peace, art, culture, conscience and inspiration with – let’s call him the expert of Dogu Bankov’s work and exhibition curator – a Norwegian, Gøran Andreas Ohldieck, who has been living in Kaunas for 15 years already, and NATO Lieutenant Colonel (OF-4 Canada) Keith Moody. The two foreigners got acquainted at the reception in the Norwegian Embassy.

“After February 16, 1918, some time had to pass before Lithuania was recognised by other countries. So, the Armistice of Compiègne, I think, is the actual beginning of the independent Republic of Lithuania,” Ohldieck explains the reasons behind the date of Dogu Bankov’s exhibition.

Before the event, the lieutenant-colonel privately asked how important for Kaunas residents is November 11. He came to the exhibition opening in a full-dress, decorated with awards and a poppy pin on a lapel and brought a wreath to commemorate the Canadians who died in wars. He also brought a poem which, he said, is usually recited in Canada on this occasion. The officer works

“I wish there wouldn’t be a need for soldiers,” surprisingly said the guest during his speech. “I planned to serve three years, but here I am 35 years later. I still don’t like the idea of war, I do not want to fight, but as a professional soldier, I will be the best I can be,” Moody explains his and his compatriots’ war philosophy after the applause. He reminds everyone that Canada is not an aggressive country and has never attacked any other country. By the way, as one of the founders of NATO, Canada has the privilege of choosing the conflicts it wishes to participate in.

For example, it didn’t support the US actions in Iraq and Vietnam.

“We participated in the Korean war and Afghanistan to create a safe environment for the people so that they could restore their country; unfortunately, we did not succeed fully,” the officer speaks openly about the quite recent events. He stresses that in all cases, the Canadian army’s purpose is never destruction.

That is also the role of Moody and his colleagues from 13 NATO countries in Vilnius, “We believe that the people of Lithuania deserve freedom and democracy to live peacefully and prosper. We want a peaceful world.”

But let’s go back to the “Norwegian-Lithuanian” as art critic Enrika Striogaitė presented Ohldieck several years ago. It is impossible not to discuss the conflict as a source of inspiration in the context of the exhibition which combines the work - born out of different circumstances - of three artists. “Peace is really boring.

How long can you look at flowers in paintings? It’s like mopping the floor - somebody has to do it, but the state of calm isn’t inspiring. Love and war – that’s inspiring,” the artist who was the head of Norwegian association for graphic artists for ten years reasons with a typical ironic smile. Incidentally, he visited Lithuania for the first time in 1974.

He assured us that he would remain in Kaunas no matter what - even if the war started.

Meanwhile, Moody doesn’t think that Dogu Bankov’s paintings are political. “It’s an emotional statement, but it’s neither for nor against the war. It’s about the concentrated reality that happened a hundred years ago.” The officer also takes the opportunity to remind that his and his colleagues’ goal is to defend the freedom to create as one of the fundamental human rights, “We do not try to assess it - we create the conditions for people to create safely.”

Our other interlocutor also doesn’t believe that such paintings could serve as propaganda tools for anyone. Ohldieck reveals a secret - scraps, quotes and photographs for pictures made using a collage technique were mostly collected in Portugal.

And it is not an accidental vacation spot. “At the beginning of WWI, Portugal tried to stay neutral, as well as during the WWII. The airport in Lisbon was special - from there you were able to reach both Berlin and London.”

Dogu Bankov’s artworks and the poems that inspired them will be exhibited at A. Žmuidzinavičius Creations and Collections Museum until January 27, 2019. If you ask, the museum employees might even put on The War Requiem. By the way, this memorial museum is pet-friendly.

Trifle - but still an achievement!

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in the NATO unit that was opened in Vilnius in September of 2015. The unit is one of the six small headquarters that were established in central and eastern member states by the Alliance in response to a changing security environment.

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Together is a short slogan used by Plovdiv, the second largest and important city in Bulgaria (which makes it similar to Kaunas) to celebrate the year 2019. On January 12, 2019, it will become the 60th European Capital of Culture. This is the first such opportunity for Bulgaria, one of the youngest members of the European Union, so it is not surprising that the capital Sofia also fought in the country’s “finals” with one of the oldest cities in the continent. After Plovdiv‘s victory, Sofia and other Bulgarian cities were invited to live through 2019 together. One of the open calls by the ECC program is dedicated to the ideas proposed by other cities that were competing for the title. In 2019 they will all be implemented together.

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Kotryna Lingienė Photos by Kęstutis Lingys

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In general, the Plovdiv 2019 program events are divided into four thematic groups, which in turn are further subdivided into smaller clusters.

These are: Fuse (to connect ethnic minorities, generations, territories), Revive (to revitalise the cultural heritage avoiding the tourist stereotypes), Transform (to transform the abandoned and forgotten places and perceptions about them) and Relax (slowly and harmoniously).

According to the people who put the program together, these four action groups are not things to aspire to but a reality that Plovdiv has been living in for several thousand years.

Sometimes more, sometimes less, depending on the regimes that had changed more than once or twice. So, there are definitely similarities with Lithuania.

We have already published more impressions from Plovdiv on Kaunas Full of Culture website along with more extensive stories about the action plan of the Capital of Culture, which is already being implemented and assessed by the townspeople.

The quarter of former tobacco factories revived by art projects and a colourful Kapana neighbourhood which became the heart of town are great examples of public support and enthusiasm. Projects implemented in Stolipinovo neighbourhood are a bit different. All of them fall under the Fuse cluster of Mahala, named using a Balkan word of Arabic origin meaning “neighbourhood” or “quarter”.

We can easily call Stolipinovo a unique city – and that in no way detracts from Plovdiv’s history of nearly 10,000 years – within a city, in the context of today’s Europe. The neighbourhood located really close to Plovdiv‘s centre is the largest Roma ghetto in the continent.

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For various reasons, it is disputed as to how many people live in the area. In some theories, it reaches 50 to 80 thousand people. The population density is way higher than in the rest of the city. Stolipinovo is the neighbourhood favoured by new Turkish emigrants, but it is also home for many Bulgarian families.

Roma started moving to Plovdiv from various places in Europe after 1989. At one time, the district faced an electricity crisis – when massive debts reached a critical point, electricity was merely cut off, but after the intervention of human rights activists, it was turned on again.

It is challenging to summarise Stolipinovo in a few words, and it seems that every resident of Plovdiv has an opinion on the area, depending on whether they know someone living there. It is a dilapidated neighbourhood, decorated in artificial spangles, and its smells and colours make it seem like a village of some other continent. On its streets, one can find both a horse-drawn carriage full of giggling kids and Porsche Cayenne. It is not always clear what type of work Stolipinovo residents do and how legal it is, but they are always working on something. They sell produce, jewellery, dresses and other goods. They busily move around – the district is full of people by the early afternoon.

Not all the people living there know how to read and write, but we shouldn’t base our opinions on stereotypes. Even before heading to Stolipinovo, while walking in the sunny old town, the vice-mayor of Plovdiv Stefan Stoyanov praised the women cleaning the streets and specified that most of them are Romani women who have been doing this job for many years. Meanwhile, English-speaking media has articles

“We are not trying to change the traditions of the district’s inhabitants or force them to renounce their identity – we simply want to provide the opportunity for integration,” Neli Blagova the representative of Plovdiv 2019 who works with the projects in Stolipinovo says firmly. A young woman with an anthropology degree has lived in this neighbourhood with her family for quite a few years, however, in the part that mostly consists of Bulgarians. So, for her, these projects carry both a personal and professional value.

European Capital of Culture representatives have already started a mobile school program where children aged 6-16 are invited to explore and change their living environment. Self-confidence, cultural and social capital are precisely the traits that the school bus aims to “bring” to the children every week. In July 2019 under the invitation of Plovdiv 2019 and supported by Goethe Institute, German artists Martin Kaltwasser and Mark Ronz will set up

a temporary pavilion for cultural exchange on the border of Stolipinovo neighbourhood.

Sport, discussions, science-based art, handicrafts and various other ways to increase mutual tolerance and to eliminate the boundaries between the ghetto and the city are also on the to-do list of Mahala project. The creators of this cluster cooperate with European Roma organisations and other international institutions.

For example, Plovdiv’s central post office (although the building is several decades younger than Kaunas central post office, the question about its future is as acute) will host the presentation of theatre workshop project aW(E)are that was led by Italians and included Roma children and teens.

The most striking features of the Plovdiv 2019 program are already published on the special website of the European Capital of Culture. The official launch will take place on the 12th of January, 2019 and the closing ceremony on the 20th of December, 2019. Best way to reach Plovdiv is to fly to Sofia and then continue on a train or a bus. Of course, the visit to the European Capital of Culture can become the highlight of a summer road trip across the continent.

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plovdiv2019.eu

about “Germans” – those Stolipinovo residents, who work in Germany to support themselves and their family but continue to return. It is likely that the Porsche was brought back from one of these trips.

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The fortress poplar alleys around the current K. Baršausko and Slėnio streets.

Picture by Stanislovas Lukošius, 1960. Archive of Kaunas City Museum.

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We call the entire neighbourhoods by its names, and we travel to work in the morning via its roads. Its mounds turn into slopes for children with sledges in the winter, and many Kaunas residents have probably organised expeditions in its dark tunnels in their youth. The religious still pray in the temple that was built for its needs and more and more Kaunas’ residents can call the former temporary garrison members’ barracks their permanent homes.

Fortress after the fortress Paulius Tautvydas Laurinaitis

Although its negative influence on the development of the city would probably outweigh the positive aspects, over more than a century Kaunas Fortress has become an integral part of Kaunas and its residents’ everyday life. Today, the red-bricked tsarist fortifications and buildings have become a part of city’s narrative, which, in addition to the history of warfare, contains some of the most difficult periods in the city’s history.

And yet – without disturbing the dark events that occurred in some parts of the fortress – it is worth looking at its contact with the city and its inhabitants during peacetime.

When Germans left Kaunas after the WWI, practically all of the fortress

was transferred to the new Lithuanian Ministry of National Defense.

A relevantly small army of the country didn’t require the complex of such size; thus some of the structures were transferred for other institutions’ use (although sometimes it was tough). This was especially important when the capital’s institutions were moving to Kaunas some official institutions were saved by administrative and even residential buildings of the fortress, although in many cases they were not adapted to such needs. It is symbolic that the former military administration of the imperial fortress was replaced by young state employees.

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The forts situation was slightly different. The 7th fort was utilised for institutional needs. In the absence of more suitable premises, a state archive was established there. 6th and 9th forts were turned into prisons. In 1922, it was intended to transfer the 1st fort to the Jewish community which planned to accommodate refugees retreating from Soviet Russia, although this probably was not implemented.

2nd and 3rd forts were to be used for shelters, one of which was to be used for people with contagious diseases.

However, during the desperate shortage of apartments in the city, two socalled municipality’s colonies of cheap apartments were set up there for the society’s poor.

These two “hostels” were famous for poor living conditions. The press of the time wrote, “...it‘s impossible to call these quarters apartments. They are some sort of primitive people’s dwellings: water is dripping from the walls, casemates are full of strange mist, cement floors are wet or simply covered in thick layer of wet mud... casemates never see the sun because their windows face the other way...”

The municipality sought to improve these places by rebuilding them, but their attempts were thwarted by the National Defence Ministry’s reluctance to lend the buildings for more prolonged use. In 1935, these colonies were liquidated. According to some sources, during the peak of the housing crisis in the 20s people also found shelter in the empty 1st, 4th and 8th forts.

Kaunas of the time was developing so fast that the blocks emerging in the outskirts of the city even in the official documents were given the names of the forts located in them.

In today’s residents’ parlance only the 6th fort has preserved the honour to have its own district. The urban ties with the fortress were ambiguous: although the hostile attitude towards

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the militaristic legacy of a foreign country – that irreversibly changed the city – prevailed, in the early 1920s, some people were suggesting the protection of forts for the future generations. Still, many utilitarian residents viewed the unused structures as potential building materials. Even if that meant receiving a strict punishment from the commandant’s office. The residents of Kaunas county would use some small buildings creatively. For example, a meat smoker was set up in one of the bunkers that got lost in the suburbs.

The military roads of the fortress were valued as well; poplars were planted on the sides. In the long run, some of the roads became integral parts of the districts and some – like Radvilėnų and Šilainių highways – remained essential links in the complex relief of the city to this day. However, the vast majority of the central ring of fortifications disappeared over the decades because it hampered the development of the city. The part that remained in Aleksotas was integrated into the Botanical Garden, and later, a cemetery was set up on a part of it. On this side of Nemunas (besides the surviving redoubt on K. Baršauskas Street) the broken track of former mounds can be traced from the tracks in Studentų and Tvirtovės alėja streets. In the relief of the currently abandoned Gričiupis park, one can still notice a pretty strong triangular shape – a part of the mound.

Since there was not enough of the government land for the development of the Temporary capital, important structures were being set up in the former military plots. That is how the Art school emerged on the Ninth battery plot, and in the former site of Cossack drill-hall and Orthodox church, a War museum was built. The fortress warehouse in the future Vileišis square managed to outlive both cultural and utilitarian functions. The structure

WWI map of Kaunas Fortress, showing the central structures between the current Savanorių ave. and K. Baršausko street.

that served as the platform for the first Song Celebrations was later turned into a water-supply reservoir.

The city’s Russian community which decreased after the WWI sold the Garrison Church and invested the money into education – they built a modern school building. Without delving more into the discussions about the need to tear the church down, it is worth noting that the first Catholic church in Šančiai had also settled in one of the utilitarian buildings of the fortress. Today, this red brick building is still standing next to the new one.

Objects that kept their military function would sometimes further aggravate the development of the city. For example, Freda could not become as large as Žaliakalnis district because it contained ammunition warehouses and it was forbidden to build around them. In the long run, such requirements are not that detrimental.

A similarly large zone around analogous warehouses in Aukštieji Šančiai

prevented the neighbourhood from chaotic construction which prevailed in the country under a still valid tsarist building law, and which was poorly executed under new conditions. With the adoption of new regulations and the shrinking of the non-construction zone, a possibility to implement the planning project of the district emerged. Unfortunately, the project that was supposed to become a model example of urbanisation in the country was realised only partially.

During the Soviet occupation, the large part of the fortress that belonged to the Ministry of National Defense was taken over by the occupying army which restored the militaristic function of the most objects.

After dropping the Soviet uniform, for a long time, the fortress buildings sought for a new purpose and only recently started trying on civilian clothes. Only a part of Panemunė military settlement today serves those who serve Lithuania.

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Calendar Theatre Thursday, 12 06, 7 pm

Dance performance “Z+”

Choreographed by a Kaunas-born talent Agnietė Lisičkinaitė, the performance focuses on generation Z and its relationship with the previous ones. The dialogue is constructed with movement and sound.

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“Gargaras”, Raudondvario pl. 101

Saturday, 12 08, 6 pm

Performance “Nathan the Wise”

National Kaunas Drama Theatre, Laisvės al. 71

Pet-friendly places

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Nathan the Wise is a play published by Gotthold Ephraim Lessing in 1779. It is a fervent plea for religious tolerance.

Its performance was forbidden by the church during Lessing’s lifetime, and it was first performed in 1783 at the Döbbelinsches Theater in Berlin. The utopian tale of the Age of Enlightenment exalts the human mind and the power to make the world perfect and tries to convince us that three sons – three religions – can live in peace and harmony.

Vytautas Anužis was awarded the Golden Cross, the highest award in Lithuanian theatre, for portraying Nathan. The performance, directed by Gintaras Varnas, received numerous other awards and accolades. Surtitled in English.

Friday, 12 28, 6 pm

Performance “Ghetto”

National Kaunas Drama Theatre, Laisvės al. 71

December The premiere of Nathan the Wise was the highlight of the previous season at the National Kaunas Drama Theatre.

This year, the spotlight’s on Ghetto, a performance directed by Gintaras Varnas and based on a play by Joshua Sobol. The play focuses on the experiences of the Jews of the Vilna Ghetto during Nazi occupation in World War II, as well as the story of the Jewish theatre inside the ghetto. The theatre became the source of strength and resistance. It’s a story about a collective fight for survival, both physical and spiritual. Varnas added a lot of documentary material to the work of Sobol. Subtitled in English.

Sunday, 12 30, 7 pm

Opera “Traviata”

Kaunas state musical theatre, Laisvės al. 91

It’s the fourth version of Giuseppe Verdi’s festive work in the Kaunas theatre. It was first shown just before we celebrated 2000. In fact, Traviata was the performance to start the history of Lithuanian professional opera in the first place. It was back in 1920.

More events pilnas.kaunas.lt

Music Friday, 12 07, 6:30 pm

Best film music by Archi Quartett “Teatro klubas”, Vilniaus g. 22

The string quartet compiled music from more than a dozen various movies of different genres and epochs. Imagine your favourite sounds from Pirates of the Caribbean, Armageddon, Titanic, James Bond and Rocky Balboa, also by European masters like Yann Tiersen or Ennio Morricone, all in one night!

Sunday, 12 09, 5 pm

Concert “The Holy Night” Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5

Kaunas string quartet and actress Inesa Paliulytė invite everyone to an Advent night inspired by the Nobel laureate Selma Lagerlöf and her story “The Holy Night”. The readings will be accompanied by the music of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Ludwig van Beethoven, Franz Schubert and the contemporary Lithuanian talent Vidmantas Bartulis.

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Calendar Sunday, 12 09, 7 pm

“GM Gyvai”: Ana Alcaide

Remembering Dmitri Hvorostovsky Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5

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Kaunas Cultural Centre, Kęstučio g. 1

Tuesday, 12 13, 6 pm

The music of Ana Alcaide is inspired

by Sephardi wonders and her hometown. That is why it is called “The soundtrack of Toledo” that should be heard by everyone. Compositions of Ana Alcaide are born from old traditions, but they combine smoothly different music styles of different cultures that come from medieval Spain and the Mediterranean sea region.

Ana Alcaide is a Spanish musician and composer that has dedicated her new music to legends and myths about women and feminine creatures from all over the world. The essence of femininity is a continuation of nature, light and shadow, unconditional love and hate, tenderness and desires and magic that comes from all of that.

Ana Alcaide is inviting to hear her romantic music played by nykelharpa and also to become a part of legends, take in the dark side and understand the real meaning of light.

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One of opera’s most elegant and expressive baritones died on November 22, 2017. The career path of Hvorostovsky quite often brought him to Kaunas, where he recorded and performed with the City Symphony Orchestra. To commemorate the legacy of the great talent – and friend –, the orchestra and soloists that collaborated with the singer in the past invite you to a special concert.

Saturday, 12 22, 7 pm

Live: “Garbanotas”

Kaunas Cultural Centre, Kęstučio g. 1

December The band formerly known as “Garbanotas Bosistas“ [Curly Bassist] have dropped the bass from the title but are still curly as hell. In fact, “heaven” is a more suitable location for their music, hippyish and ethereal, soaked in sunshine and coloured in your favourite crayons. They mostly sing in Lithuanian bird and bee language, but that will not stop you from falling in love. With the band. Or with the birds.

Saturday, 12 22, 9 pm

Live: “Jaunas kraujas IX” “Lemmy” club, Girstupio g. 1

Come to check out the young flesh of the rock music scene of Lithuania.

In fact, all of the bands are based in Vilnius. Morii are bringing some progressive / post-latin / stoner / RnB, and Džemas are packing up alternative / indie / grunge, while Evolution are sticking to modern rock.

Sung poetry is a very popular genre in Lithuania, and so is Andrius Kaniava, a talented actor, poet and communicator. He writes, speaks and sings in our language, but the warmth he transmits to the audience is universal.

Wednesday, 12 26, 5 pm

Concert “Kalėdos visiems” [“Christmas for Everyone”] St. George the Martyr Church, Papilio g. 7

Tuesday, 12 25, 4 pm

Carillon concert

Vytautas the Great War Museum garden, K. Donelaičio g. 64 You most probably won’t hear “Last Christmas” in this event, but carillonist Julius Vilnonis is working hard to select some of the most touching Christmas melodies. Music does sound better with bells!

Wednesday, 12 26, 4 pm

Live: Andrius Kaniava

Kaunas Cultural Centre, Kęstučio g. 1

The second day of Christmas will be filled with music by Ąžuolynas brass band and music ensemble Ainiai. Free for all and open for all.

More events pilnas.kaunas.lt

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Calendar Carillon concert

of Aldeburgh, OM CH) used for his War Requiem from 1962, written for the (re-)consecration of Coventry Cathedral.

Just before the clocks of Kaunas and Lithuania welcome 2019, the bells of the carillon will warm everyone up with some of the most festive music ever. Performed by Julius Vilnonis

The 37 pictures by Dogu Bankov follow the text without being direct illustrations. Even the Biblical references have been ‘taken out of time’ to indicate that the feelings of anger and hatred is not limited to the world wars alone but, unfortunately, to every day of our existence.

Sunday, 12 31, 11:30 pm

Vytautas the Great War Museum garden, K. Donelaičio g. 64

11 11 – 01 27

Dogu Bankov.

“I am the enemy you killed, my friend” Žmuidzinavičius Museum, V. Putvinskio g. 64

The texts from the Requiem are the Latin “Missa pro Defunctis” and some of Wilfred Owen’s war poems. These two texts stand in sharp contrast to each other. The Latin mass is the bearer of tradition and the unalterable belief in the unity in Heaven.

Owen’s poems, written by a soldier aged 25 who were shot dead one week – almost to the hour – before the armistice on November 11, 1918.

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Exhibitions

More about the exhibition and Bankov himself in the Residents section of this issue.

11 28 – 12 15

X: PA/LIKIMAS

Gallery “Meno parkas”, Rotušės a. 26

This exhibition is based on the texts that British composer Benjamin Britten (1913–1976) (Baron Britten

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December Curated by Albinas Vološkevičius, X: PA/LIKIMAS is a project inviting artists to take an artistic look at the history of the 100-year history of Lithuanian independence, its development, the critical moments of this period, to identify and highlight the historical events, dates and achievements of Lithuania which are our legacy and by its significance today determines our own destiny – to be free and independent.

Cinema Friday, 12 07, 7:45 pm

KIFF film club: “Mandy” (2017)

Kaunas Cinema Centre “Romuva”, Kęstučio g. 62

X: PA / LIKIMAS is a continuous project inviting artists from different areas to work in pairs with a single piece of art, thus seeking new artistic expression and experience in work.

Eighteen duos of famous artists from Panevėžys (the birthplace of the project) and other Lithuanian cities are participating in the project this year.

This time all the creators: painters, graphic artists, photographers, ceramics, sculptors, metal plastics and glass artists, worked in pairs. By sharing a wide range of experiences, schools, techniques, and even combining completely different materials, finding compromise between themselves as creators and various means of expression, artists acquired new creative skills that can then affect even personal creativity, expression and style at the same time extending the artistic horizons, both in terms of materialism and worldview.

The works exhibited in Kaunas have already been donated to the city of Panevėžys and will augment the already started art collection for the newly created Arts Centre.

Film Club of Kaunas International Film Festival invites you to the eighth and its last screening this year. As well as the closing event of KIFF in September, the final selection of Film Club is dedicated to Icelandic film composer and director Jóhann Jóhannsson, who created his last soundtrack for the film “Mandy”. The film will be presented by Tautvydas Urbelis, film critic and researcher of the End of the World.

In his second feature film visionist, Panos Cosmatos invites viewers to dip into a visual and musical journey.

Nicolas Cage played one of the craziest roles in his career, and composer Johann Johannsson wrote his last and most experimental soundtrack.

This group of creators turned Mandy into a psychedelic heavy metal opera covered in the nostalgia of the 80s horror films.

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Calendar Tuesday, 12 18, 6 pm

MET Opera: “Traviata” “Forum Cinemas”, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 49

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The sports hall in Kaunas has witnessed dozens and dozens of Kaunasian victories. Our city team has invited the one of Panevėžys this time.

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Euroleague: Žalgiris – Maccabi

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“Žalgirio” arena, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 50 The “Traviata” in the Kaunas State Musical Theatre might indeed be sold out, but why not indulge yourself in the HD quality of the same story broadcast all the way from New York? The MET broadcasts have been favourited by Kaunasians for almost 10 years now!

Sports Wednesday, 12 05, 7 pm

Lithuanian handball league: Granitas-Karys – KKSCRSSG-Grifas Kaunas sports hall, Perkūno al. 5

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For seven years, our arena has been one of the most visited in the Euroleague network. Let’s beat another attendance record just before Christmas. Haven’t seen the Tel Aviv team in a while!

More events pilnas.kaunas.lt

December Saturday, 12 22, 12 pm

Christmas run Panemunė forest

In the most recent match, we won against the Vilnius-based punks. Will we once again? It’s the team’s last home game until February, which means no reason not to attend.

Other events Saturday, 12 01, 6 pm

Christmas tree lighting Town hall square, Rotušės a.

A healthy way to start the holiday season is a Christmas run in one of the most picturesque forest parks in the region. The run has been a tradition of the residents of Kaunas for more than a dozen years now.

Saturday, 12 22, 6 pm

National Ice hockey league: Kaunas Hockey – Hockey Punks Kaunas ice arena, Aušros g. 42C

On December 1, 2018, the unique Kaunas Christmas tree will be lit on the Town Hall Square. This is where the traditional Christmas market will be located. It’s also scheduled to open on December 1 and will last through January 6, 2019. There’s plenty of time for you to experience the holiday spirit of Kaunas! Concerts, light installations, Christmas markets and beyond – check online for dates and times.

More events pilnas.kaunas.lt

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Calendar Thursday, 12 06, 2 pm – 5 pm

Doors open

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Kaunas 2022 office, Laisvės al. 36

The team at POP-UP are known for the hippest fashion fairs in Lithuania.

The location’s spectacular, too – the gallery itself and its permanent and temporary exhibitions are worth a couple of hours of your time (here’s our recent blog entry about it). Shopaholics will be able to satisfy their style hunger with the juiciest and hottest fashion statements from Lithuania, as well as matching accessories, jewellery and beyond. Don’t forget to buy something for your friends, too!

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Saturday, 12 08, 12 pm

As you might have heard by now, Kaunas will be the European Capital of Culture in 2022. That’s in 3 years, but the preparations are already underway. The team is inviting everyone to visit their cool office and talk about what’s happening. Christmas mood included.

Opening of Žaisloteka

Z. Kuzmickis department of Kaunas V. Kudirka Public Library, Raseinių g. 26

12 08 – 12 09

Christmas Pop-up

M. Žilinsko dailės galerija, Nepriklausomybės a. 12 A žaisloteka is a library for toys and games of all kinds. First one in Kaunas is being opened in a fabulous interwar house in Žaliakalnis. Come to play!

Tuesday, 12 11, 7 pm

Slemas #17

Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56

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December out their Instagram saga and head to the Kaunas Artists’ House to meet the crew and get one of the 300 copies of the first edition of MASS. For youngsters, by youngsters.

Saturday, 12 15, 3 pm

Friends Christmas market “Vingiu Dubingiu”, A. Mickevičiaus g. 35

Poetry slams are one of the trendiest pastimes in Kaunas this year. You’re welcome to participate even if you don’t speak the Lithuanian language.

In fact, any language can be used to express your thoughts and feelings. Do register beforehand: menas@kmn.lt.

Friday, 12 14, 7 pm

MASS magazine launch Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56

One of the city’s most celebrated craft beer pubs has got many frequent visitors. A lot of them tend to be creative persons. Why not combine everything and turn a pub into a cosy Christmas market for one Saturday?

The new mag – a zine, really – was born during the meetings of Kaunas Challenge, a project by Kaunas 2022 aimed at the youngest citizens of Kaunas. In fact, some of the authors have already tested themselves in one of the issues of our magazine. Check

The invitation also suggests that “If the weather is fine this time Christmas market will appear as open air in our beer garden with festive hot drinks and food”. Expect leather accessories, hand pressed and drawn artworks, comics and prints, philosophy and photography books, hoodies and beyond.

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pilnas.kaunas.lt

Gerald Holtom (1914 – 1985) Holtom designed the “peace sign”, as it is known today, in the 1950s as the logo for the British Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament. The British designer represented “an individual in despair, with hands palm outstretched outwards and downwards in the manner of Goya‘s peasant before the firing squad“; he was also inspired by the semaphore symbols for N and D (Nuclear Disarmament).

KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE Monthly magazine about personalities and events in Kaunas (free of charge)

Laisvės alėja 59, third floor

Editorial office:

Authors: Aistė Ambrazevičiūtė, Andrejus Bykovas, Artūras Bulota, Austėja Banytė, Bernadeta Buzaitė, Dainius Ščiuka, Edvinas Grin, Eglė Šertvyčūtė, Emilija Visockaitė, Gunars Bakšejevs, Julija Račiūnaitė, Justė Vyšniauskaitė, Kotryna Lingienė, Kęstutis Lingys, Paulius Tautvydas Laurinaitis, Teodoras Biliūnas.

Patrons:

KAUNO MIESTO SAVIVALDYBĖ

RUN 100010COPIES TIRAŽAS 000 EGZ.

ISSN 2424-4481 2424-4465

Leidžia: Publisher

2018 No. 2017 Nr.122 (40) (18)