13ª Edition Adriana Chiari Magazine by Adriana Chiari Magazine

ADRIANA CHIARI MAGAZINE nº13

THE NEW

INDIGENOUS BRAZILIAN WOMEN

Marcia is a symbol of resistance to the imposition of cultural exchanges within a country that promotes indigenous deterritorialization

EXCLUSIVE

Reginaldo Fonseca interviews

Lino Villaventura

one of Brazil’s most celebrated fashion designers

FASHION

It’s fashionable to be sustainable SPECIAL

Leandro Karnal

The non-acceptance of the differences

BEAUTY PRODUCTS FOR THE AUTUMN/ WINTER SEASON HEALTH

Cancer prevention: Change your habits

consultorio@marcossforza.com 02071934067

The current economic continues to have an adverse effect on both commercial and private property markets. As a consequence, the effect

a bailiff to enforce a debt is not uncommon and can put your home as well as your possessions in jeopardy. On average a 113 mortgage Repossession Orders are made every day. There are various options available to an

vest in the Trustee whose function is to sell the assets to pay the costs of the bankruptcy estate and creditors. This will include a person’s main asset – the family home. The Trustee can only deal with the Bankrupt person’s equitable share in the property. In other words, if a property is jointly owned then this normally means the value of the property less any secured charges, such as a mortgage, which will leave the equity available, of which half would belong to the Trustee to realise. This can be done by the joint owner buying out the Trustee’s interest, a remortgage, reaching a settlement or at worst the sale of the property. An Individual Voluntary Arrangement (IVA) is a contractual arrangement with creditors to repay debts over a set period of time which can freeze interest and charges. It is based on monthly contributions that can be made and is an option that only an individual can propose. Approval of an IVA is subject to agreement by creditors. It provides room for negotiation and allows an individual to retain some control. Income will be assessed in order that contributions can be made to the IVA and the family home will still need to be dealt with, but this can be negotiated on terms which allow a controlled solution to be found. At Aspect Plus LLP we have the skills and experience to provide specialist advice to

which ranges from basic debt advice to Debt Management Plans, Debt relief Orders, Individual Voluntary Arrangements and Bankruptcy. Each option requires specialist advice in order that

as well protection of the family home. We can also negotiate settlements with your creditors and advise on the most suitable course of action to take. We always provide free initial

consequences of each process. The two most common formal insolvency processes for an individual that owns assets is an Individual Voluntary Arrangement and Bankruptcy. These are words that you may have heard or someone you know or a friend of a friend has dealt with, but do you really know what they mean? Both are dependent on each individuals own circumstances and each carry different consequences. In Bankruptcy, an individual can petition for their own bankruptcy but also a creditor can issue a petition and make an individual bankrupt. A Trustee in Bankruptcy is appointed and assets owned by the Debtor will

guide you through your situation in order that the right solution for you can be found.

position remains a serious issue. The average household debt in July 2015 was £6,005 which excludes any mortgages. The average consumer borrowing, which includes unsecured loans, deals, per UK adult was £3,176 in July 2013. The estimated outstanding average mortgage across £11.3m households is £112,604 as at July 2015. The family home is usually the most important asset as well as the singular largest investment an individual will make. This asset remains paramount to each individual who will want to protect the same for their family and their future at all costs. Therefore, it is imperative that the right advice According to the Money Advice Trust, local authorities in England and Wales referred 1.8m cases to bailiffs in the past 12 months. This mostly related to council tax arrears, business

Contact details: Aspect Plus LLP, 40a Station Road, Upminster, Essex RM14 2TR Tel: 01708 300170 Email: info@aspectplus.co.uk *Statistics from creditaction.co.uk

Beth Kress Photography

ADRIANA CHIARI MAGAZINE General Director and Editor Adriana Chiari Assistant Editor Monica Wouters Translation Marcelo de Oliveira Proofreading CT English Revision Graphic Designer Yasmin Ruama Journalists Fernanda Andrade, Marcela Ximenez Marília Maciel, Patricia Dantas, Ronise Nepomuceno, Valney Nunes Photography Alessandro Filizzola, Beth Kress, Paulo Correa, José Carlos da Silva (COVER), Simone Bello Makeup Roseane Shekinah, Stela Carvalho Columnists André Baldo, Bianca Edwards, Carolina Sandri, Cristhiane Tozzo, Daniele Tedesco, Dr. Marcos Sforza, Dra. Vania Martins, Elaine Lopes, Gesiane Gouveia, Karla Barbosa, Kinicha da Costa, Luciana Oliveira, Magda Lizbir Gomes, Michele Oliveira, Nazaré Jacobucci, Reginaldo Fonseca, Thaize de Oliveira Collaborators Lino Villaventura, Marcia Kambeba, Simone Sabedot, Sofia Serrane

PUBLICITY ADRIANA CHIARI MAGAZINE Contact: + 44 (0) 7576 256 594 Social Media: @adrianachiarimagazine www.adrianachiarimagazine.net

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EDITOR’S LETTER The keyword for this edition is FASHION ... from the glamour of Linno Villaventura to the simplicity – but no less glamorous - of indigenous fashion. Nowadays sustainability is the order of the day, and this applies just as much to fashion. We live in times of rampant consumerism where we shop ceaselessly even when we don’t need to. Even when we have plenty, we still buy more. Stop for a moment and think of all the clothing in your wardrobe that you have not worn in a long time... my advice is that you rethink the way you consume. Besides fashion, we have tips on current cultural events, hot beauty products, health and psychology tips and interviews with people who have reached their positions with commitment and dedication. I hope they will inspire you this autumn. In this issue we focus on reflection. Reflect on what we buy, the way we think about one another and, of course, how we think about ourselves. Enjoy every page, our intention is to encourage everyone to reflect and grow as a person. The world needs more people who are happy in life; we already have too many critics.

With gratitude,

Adriana Chiari

Graphic Design: Diana Medeiros

May you all have a fulfilling life.

INDEX | Adriana Chiari

COVER

58 | INDIGENOUS BRAZILIAN WOMEN – ART AND FASHION by Marcia Kambeba 60 | THE NEW INDIGENOUS WOMAN by Valnei Nunes

FASHION

SPECIAL

14 | FASHIONABLE IS TO BE SUSTAINABLE

by Marília Maciel 28 | HISTORY OF THE FRINGES by Fernanda Andrade 44 | THE CHALLENGES OF BEING PLUS SIZE by Marcela Ximenes 70 | AN INTERVIEW WITH LINO VILLAVENTURA by Reginaldo Fonseca 80 | STYLES AND FASHION by Thaize de Oliveira

BEHAVIOUR

24 | VANITY AND OBSESSION by Magda Lizbir Gomes 34 | CONJUGAL SEPARATION – GRIEVING AND LOSSES by Nazaré Jacobucci 86 | SUBJEC: FOOD by Elaine Lopes

HOME AND DECORATION 75 | FISH PIE

by Gesiane Gouveia 76 | AUTUMN DECORATION by Carolina Sandri

36 | CANCER – CHANGE YOUR ATTITUDES by Cristhiane Tozzo 48 | ENDOMETRIUM CANCER by Dr Vania Martins

BEAUTY

40 | AREOLA MICRO PIGMENTATION by Roseane Shekinah

47 | HYBRID BREAST AUGMENTATION by Dr Marcos Sforza 66 | PRODUCTS FOR THE AUTUM/WINTER SEASON by Fernanda Andrade

by Leandro Karnal

CULTURE AND TRAVEL 18 | AUTUMN IN EUROPE

by Karla Barbosa 68 | CULTURAL PROGRAME by Patrícia Dantas

BUSINESS 52 | THE POWER OF NARRATIVES

by Michele Oliveira 54 | IT – INDIAN WOMEN LEADERS by Ronise Nepomuceno

FINANCES

22 | 10 WAYS OF SAVING

by Bianca Edwards and Sofia Serrane 88 | BENEFITS IN ENGLAND by Luciana Oliveira

BODY AND SOUL

32 | OPENING SPACES

by André Baldo 84 | BODY AND SELF-ESTEEM by Daniele Tedesco 90 | STRATEGIC ASTROLOGY by Kinicha da Costa

YOUR SPACE

16 | Dante Farias - BUSINESS ADVISER 30 | Sandro Vita - WRITER 38 | Dr Ioná Bramati-Castellarin - OSTEOPATH 56 | Daniel Toledo -LAWYER AND BUSINESS CONSULTANT

SUSTAINABLE

HEALTH

50 | PREJUDICES

FASHION

It’s fashionable TO BE

SUSTAINABLE

Marília Maciel Journalist

Fashion brands care about sustainability. We are experiencing a new era in the fashion industry. Some fashion brands now show concern about what they produce, the materials they use, and their impact on the environment and the lives of people. The increasing adoption of upcycling- a technique that involves producing from existing materials, led the industry to create the Green Carpet Fashion Awards, which had its first edition in September 2017 in Italy. Among the names that competed for the award were Fendi, Valentino, and Gucci. And it’s not only luxury brands that are involved in this process: H&M, the renowned fast fashion chain group, invests in the use of organic cotton and proposes to use it in all of its production by 2020. The group has other projects involving sustainability, like the recycling of clothing, in which 14,771 tons of fabrics have already been collected; an amount equivalent to 89 million t-shirts. H&M believes in a circular process that involves the recycling and reusing of fabrics that, in the traditional manufacturing model, often end up in landfills. Some brands have already been created with a sustainability DNA, like the examples below:

Mollet lowing the concept of The brand was created fol movement to that of fast slow fashion, an inverse non-seasonal items that fashion. It makes timeless r and in any season; an can be worn year after yea t consumerism. In attempt to avoid rampan tted to optimal use of addition, they are commi and nothing is wasted. fabrics in different pieces @molletshop brand Image: Instagram from the Gioconda

ive The brand creates exclus duce pro ss ma t no es lingerie, do ver and tries to reuse all left-o king ma the in s ng mi fabric trim ar. of little bags for underwe ram tag Ins nd Image: Bra @giocondaclothing

Zerezes

in 2012 produces The project that was born d wood. In addition to eyeglasses using recovere ent, the brand offers a their care for the environm design full of personality. Image: Brand Instagram

@zerezes

Another Land

The brand uses eco-friendly fabrics made from pet bottles or natural fibres. Image: Brand Instagram @anotherlandproject

Hype Vintage

m salvaged cept with clothes made fro con n hio fas s ou sci con a Proposes and customized pieces. year, the brand iana Schmidt earlier this Jul er ign des n hio fas by Created go an upgrade. shop for pieces that under and d-h on sec of t sor a ved. Its works as then handcrafted and impro are t tha ces pie s ect sel lly It carefu lusive. ous, individualised and exc fashion concept is consci perfections or that im r that present mino ng thi clo of ces pie des It upgra possibility of also offers customers the simply look a bit plain. It proposition that ve ati eady own- an innov alr y the s the clo g izin custom dom wear. items of clothing they sel se tho to life of se lea new gives a Giulia Cillo vintagebr, photographer: Image: Instagram @hype

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>> YOUR SPACE <<

The role of the

MANAGER PROVIDER

as a solution

In both our personal and professional lives, nothing is worse than making plans that, although well elaborated, never get put into practice. In personal life, the most challenging plans seem to be those involving keeping fit and eating more healthily. In the business world, plans that never get put into action are equally frustrating, but more than that, they are a great waste of the resources invested including time and money and goals that never got attained as a result. Continuous action is necessary for bringing plans into reality. New management models demand focus on performance strategies and risk management, by use of continuous monitoring indicators that will allow evaluation of whether the project is being put into practice as expected, and to quickly identify problems as they arise and swiftly focus on the solutions. In this model, the manager needs to be able to take ownership of any mistakes made and share them with his team. Managers who admit their own mistakes tend to be more respected by their work team. This stance, not very common just a short time ago, minimizes risks, especially at times when things- including problems- happen at such impressive speed. The solutions, therefore, will need to be equally agile. The current scenario requires managers to adopt more modern and practical approaches regardless of the markets or segments in which they operate. At every stage of the implementation of plans, the performance indicators need be simpler and less bureaucratic, so that all involved can understand them and not only those who elaborated the plans, as used to be customary. Moreover, the problems are no longer the same as they were a few years ago; depending on the segment, for example, it is no longer enough to just market an excellent product at an

excellent cost. It is also necessary to inform customers about the sources of materials, to demonstrate the integrity of the manufacturing process, from production to distribution and commercialization, including any social benefits. It is no coincidence that the focus of companies- including large ones- has been on modern management models that prize transparency, ethics and a clear attention to risk management at all levels. This is not a recent concern, but one that has intensified as a result of technological innovations. For example, through social networks, a brand image can suffer irreparable damage in a short time, and this calls for a planned and preventive strategy of risk management of the image of the brand and the people who represent it. This trend directly impacts traditional management models as it requires constant sharing of problems, ideas, preventive actions, and corrective or improvement measures. This new model does not welcome professionals who are unable to work as part of a team. This new management model demands attention to costs and expenses. Therefore, nothing involved in the project can be unproductive or waste time, energy and resources. The focus must be on processes and not individuals. Managers must become solution providers, stimulate the identification of root causes of weaknesses and collectively search for lasting solutions. In summary, in some cases traditional management models fail to see problems that arise during the implementation of their plans and are incapable of correctly identifying the causes of deviation let alone the solutions. Managing all aspects of a project encompasses strategies for execution of planned activities, ensures swift problem solving and creates effective teamwork that consistently shows positive results.

DANTE FARIAS

Is a business administrator, consultant, and business advisor with a 15-year strong presence in the Brazilian industrial sector and also in consultancy in Brazil and other South American countries. He has a postgraduate degree in Auditing and Management Control from the Federal University of Goiรกs and has also attended several courses in world-renowned institutions in the areas of Internal Operational Auditing and Business Risk Management.

www.adrianachiarimagazine.net

CULTURe and travel

Autumn in Europe Let’s Travel?

Karla Barbosa Travel Consultant

Europe is a highly sought-after holiday destination that has its charms in any season. But it has also some drawbacks, such as the intense cold in winter or the crowds and higher prices in summer. So why not consider Europe in autumn; mild temperatures, the incomparable changing colours of the trees, smaller queues for the attractions, lower prices compared to the high season, and lively festivals. Tempting, isn’t it? Get ready for an unforgettable European Autumn holiday! Europe in autumn means savings. Autumn is considered the low season in Europe. Therefore, accommodation and flight tickets will be cheaper. Enjoy the savings to do more shopping! The weather will be more pleasant In autumn, temperatures are mild. You will not suffer the inconvenience of the high summer heat of some destinations and also avoid the winter chill that has not yet begun. Autumn in Europe starts around September 20 and ends around December 15. Less crowded attractions Even the most popular attractions in Europe will be more accessible in the autumn. It is true that some famous attractions, like the Louvre in Paris, are busy in any season but at least the queues will be shorter.

The European autumn offers unparalleled landscapes Autumn in Europe is that magical time of the year when trees are coloured yellow, orange or red, and the leaves begin to fall and carpet the ground with their colours. A delight to tread on and admire! Suggested Destinations Many cites and regions can provide unforgettable holidays, and we have a few suggestions for you to make the most of Europe in the autumn. Come with us! Some words of advice on your European trip in Autumn: • Always travel light. Remember you will be the one carrying the luggage; • Wear comfortable shoes, suitable for walking. Forget open sandals; there is little chance of them being needed in the autumn time; • Check the attraction opening hours in advance, as some close or change their opening hours in the low season; • Check the validity of passports and the documentation required by the countries you visit and do not forget travel insurance. Have you organized everything you need to travel? So, don’t waste any more time. Book your trip now!

Madrid and the Andalusia region Besides being a beautiful city, the Spanish capital is perfect for those who like nightlife. Enjoy its cultural attractions during the day, get some rest in the late afternoon then plunge into the nightlife of Madrid! Bars and restaurants are packed late into the night. To warm up the autumn evenings, sip a sangria and try some Spanish tapas (appetizers served in bars, cafes, and restaurants, usually accompanied by drinks). From Madrid, go to beautiful Andalusia and get to know cities like Seville, Malaga, Cordoba, and Granada and admire the Moorish influenced architecture from the time of the Arab domination of the Iberian Peninsula.

Feel at home in Lisbon The capital of Portugal receives thousands of foreign visitors who come searching for its mild weather, good food, great wines and irresistible sweets, such as the famous Pastel de Belém. In autumn the city will be less crowded but every bit as charming. The Baixa de Lisboa must be explored slowly on foot. Then, take tram 38 to climb to the Alfama and the Castle of São Jorge and admire beautiful views of the Tagus River. Save the nights for fados, salt cod dishes and Portuguese wines in the Chiado or Bairro Alto, the best neighbourhoods for dining out and nightlife. Do not miss visiting Belém to try the Pastel de Belém (sweet custard tartlets). Try to save a day to visit Sintra and Cascais. The Parque das Nações with its large Oceanarium showcases modern Lisbon and is well worth a visit.

Romantic Bavaria and southern Germany Munich, Bavaria’s charming capital, is a great starting point from which to visit the romantic castles built by Ludwig II, the Mad King. Be dazzled by the wonders of Neuschwanstein Castle, near the small town of Fussen, which is said to have inspired Disneyland’s Cinderella Castle. Then visit Linderhof, where the king lived for 7 years, and the Neues Schloss Herrenchiemsee, situated on an island of the magnificent Lake Chiemsee, 97 kilometres away from Munich.

Colourful Barcelona, capital of Catalonia The presence of the bold Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí is remarkable in Barcelona: the Sagrada Familia cathedral, which looks like a sand castle, the audacious rounded forms of Casa Mila (La Pedrera), the incredible combination of colours, glass and ceramics of Casa Batlló, the curves and mosaics of Parque Guell. Gaudí managed to bring forms and shapes of nature to architecture. And there’s more: Barcelona’s autumn festivals, such as the Festas de la Mercè (which take place in September) and numerous other events. There’s a lot to choose from since Barcelona is synonymous with partying!

If you are in Munich between late September and early October, be sure to join the Oktoberfest; a very popular German party. Besides the many German beers you can try, Oktoberfest participants can also enjoy traditional German food, such as Hendl (roast chicken), Schweinebraten (roast pork), Weisswurst (sausage) and many others.

The Canary Islands, a great destination in autumn The Canary Islands, a great destination in autumn.It is said that the Roman historian Pliny preferred to call them ‘the fortunate islands.’ With reason: the Spanish archipelago formed by seven islands is very close to the African coast and has year-round average temperatures of 21C. All the islands are beautiful and offer diverse attractions. The climate of the Canary Islands, one of the best in the world, makes any time of year a good time to visit. In autumn, the weather is hardly different from that of summer- except for the fact that it gets dark earlier. Tenerife, the largest of the islands, has a bit of everything: exotic black sand beaches (should you not like them, there are clear sand beaches in the south of the island), the incredible lunar landscape of the Teide volcano National Park and the fantastic Loro Park, where children and adults delight in the shows of parrots, whales, dolphins and sea lions.

The wineries of Bordeaux, France In addition to tasting the famous Bordeaux wines, in the city that is considered the wine capital of the world, you will be delighted with its sophisticated cuisine and taste the famous local mushrooms and truffles. Bordeaux is a small, beautiful and flat town, and very easy to explore on foot or by bicycle. How to get there: From Paris, there are daily flights to Bordeaux departing from either Orly or Charles de Gaulle airports. Flights usually last about one hour. There is also the high-speed train link from central Paris to Saint Jean Station in Bordeaux. The train journey lasts about three hours. 19

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finance

10 Ways to Save Money When Your Earnings are Low Bianca Edwards Businesswoman and Business Administrator

Contrary to what many people think, earning little can also be synonymous with savings. Here are 10 ways to save even when your income is low. The current economic situation has caused many people to see their earnings reduced. For those on a salary, the reductions have brought with them adjustments to their lifestyles, their consumer habits and the way they manage their money, and often left very little scope for savings. However, with some effort and willpower, saving is still possible even when earning little! Here are 10 ways to stretch your money, so you can save for your projects and dreams. 1 - Analyse your spending Divide your spending into three categories: fixed, variable, and extras. Generally, fixed expenses include things like house and car repayments; variable expenses- which can also be fixed- include things like utility bills; and extra expenses include things like dining out. 2- Reduce variable expenses With small measures, you can reduce these expenses. Just a few examples: avoid taking long showers, always turn off the lights and appliances when you are not using them, or reduce the number of cigarettes you smoke (if you are a smoker). 3 - Reduce fixed expenses This is the category where it is most difficult to make reductions. If you have a mortgage, compare your current rates to those other banks offer. If you have several loans with different interest rates, consider consolidating them all into one with a lower rate and pay a single bill for them all. 4 - Organize your accounts at the beginning of each month Do not wait until the end of the month to put some money away for savings as there may be nothing left by then. Divide and allocate your money at the beginning of each month; pay all expenses and put some money away as savings. 5 - Adopt free leisure activities Earning little does not mean you have to stop doing activities you enjoy, it just means that you will need to make some adjustments. Instead of dining out, gather friends and dine at home; instead of joining a gym, look for parks where you can exercise for free. 6 - Be strict with small expenses Resist the temptation of small expenses, like takeaway coffees.

If you consider that the price you pay for coffee at a café is at least twice what it costs to make it at home, the extra expense will add up to about £54 per month. And if you have a coffee in the morning and another one after lunch, that cost will double. Consider reducing the frequency of your takeaway coffees. Make coffee at home and take it to work instead. If you have other similar expenditures, apply the same principle. If you add up all that you spend over the period of a month you’ll see the impact it has on your budget. If you think small spendings do not add up to much, read the article on how Mónica Sofia and Rubim Fonseca jointly managed to save £ 1,700 by only changing small habits like having breakfast at home instead of eating out. 7 - Avoid credit cards Credit cards can be a great help when juggling personal finances, but if your income is low and your budget is tight it is advisable not to use them. Credit cards can easily make you lose control of your expenses and lose track of how much you can actually save each month. 8- Do not delay paying the bills “Do not leave until tomorrow what you can do today”. This saying applies to payments of bills. Do not postpone payments until later, because you will run a double risk: you may end up using that money for something else and incurring a late zpayment fine if you miss the deadline. 9 - Apply the 10-second rule This is the golden rule to avoid impulse buying. Before you buy something on a promotion or because you think it is good value, take a 10-second pause and ask yourself, “Do I really need this?”, “Do I really want this?” Think of the amount of unnecessary stuff that you accumulate and whether you really need it before you buy anything new. 10- Take one day off every month- or every week even- as a buy-nothing-day. And make sure you buy absolutely nothing on that day. Many of the purchases we make come from habit, so select one day (or several days) each month and buy nothing on that day. You will realise that you avoided buying things you did not need and ended up doing something different instead. With willpower and a little imagination, it is possible to save money even when your income is low. What about you? What techniques do you use to save? Share your daily saving strategies with us. Good luck!

Text by: Bianca Edwards and Sofia Serrane

ADVICE | DIRECTION | SOLUTION MOVE TO UK/EUROPE CONTRACTS / IP / TAX / MERGERS & ACQUISITIONS EMPLOYMENT MANAGEMENT / COMPLIANCE / PROPERTY LITIGATION

>> COMMERCIAL & PRIVATE CLIENT SERVICES Nabas International Lawyers is a multi-service law firm serving businesses and individuals with legal and professional services on domestic and international matters. Specialist advice from our team bring resolve to sensitive matters requiring both privacy and expedience with the ability to tackle complex management and personal issues. As a firm we work collectively with you to best serve your interest. Nabas International Lawyers is a trading company of Cubism Law, duly qualified law firm giving our clients and us a strong platform to provide specialist services and professional support. Our practice areas are divided within two scopes, Business and Individual affairs. Business affairs are tailored to business related services involving commercial and corporate legal issues for small businesses to corporates. With Invidiual affairs , clients have personal issues to be tackled and require our representation. Of course it is common for the business and individual client needs to intertwine. We are able to analyse and contribute to the resolution process.

Management of personal legal affairs are a challenge. A challenging climate should not intrude in your goals and sensitive matters. We put crucial attention, and apply assurance to reach settlement. We aim to serve you with expertise, sincerity, and commitment.

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BUSINESS behavior

When

Vanity obsession T becomes an

Magda Lizbir Gomes Holistic Therapist

The obsession with beauty and perfect bodies is a serious malady that already has a name: dysmorphophobia or body dysmorphic disorder. This disorder presently affects a large part of the world’s population, mostly teenagers. But dysmorphophobia has neither sex nor age, and can affect anyone, since the ideals of beauty imposed by the world of fashion and the media are mostly responsible for people’s obsession with perfect bodies and flawless appearances. Bullying and the widespread practice of selfies also aggravate the problem. The line that separates you from feeling ‘healthy’ and having a compulsion for something is tenuous. To some, this may sound like an exaggeration or fussiness, but beauty related diseases are real and cruel. ‘Some forty years ago, if I told you that I work out every day, would not eat salmon for fear of the hormones they contain, get myself routinely tested and would not consume any carbohydrates after 6pm, you would probably say I had some disorder. Nowadays, these practices are commonplace,’ explains Joana Vilhena Novaes, coordinator of the Beauty Diseases Centre of the Interdisciplinary Laboratory of Research and Social Intervention (LIPIS) of PUC-Rio. The perception of beauty changes from time to time, making it difficult to diagnose and treat such pathologies. So much so that they were only included in the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (DSM) in 1995. ‘The psychiatric term is body dysmorphic disorder, which is actually an obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD) with “contemporary touches”. These disorders cause a distortion in body image perception and also severe changes in diet - such as anorexia, bigorexia, bulimia and orthorexia.’

Vanity vs Obsession Some everyday attitudes can help differentiate vanity from obsessive behaviour. The victim will develop a compulsive relationship with eating, exercising and the way they see and accept themselves. They do this not because they want to, but rather because they feel unable to avoid such behaviours and that constitutes a fairly severe anxiety disorder. It is, however, in the early adolescence that we become more sensitive to censorship, comments, and comparisons. This makes teenagers seek constant approval of others and become easy prey in the hands of the fashion and the media. Teenagers use what other people say and their expectations

• Refusal to being photographed. • Elaborate rituals designed to improve appearance. • Feeling of public discomfort (social phobia) due to perceived ‘defects’. • Tendency to overemphasise physical appearances to the detriment of other attributes. • Use hands or posture to disguise perceived ‘defect’. • Excessive use of clothing, make-up and hats to camouflage perceived ‘imperfection’ • Repeatedly check body part with

regarding looks and behaviours as a reference to their own self-acceptance and a means to be loved and accepted. In adolescence, the individual is still in construction. The comments of parents, relatives, and friends have a huge meaning for them, far greater than they would on an adult. The seriousness of the dysmorphophobia process is even greater when this excessive worry persists in adulthood. In adolescence, individuals need to muster sufficient emotional maturity and self-esteem to overcome difficulties derived from physical appearances and to be able to relate adequately with their peers. Often these problems can be solved if their root cause is addressed, i.e. if the emotional cause from which the distorted

perceived ‘defect’ in mirrors. Treatment The majority of people cite vanity and care with their appearance, to justify their behaviour and see it in a positive light. For the patient however, this disorder is a source of great distress and anxiety. The first step in its treatment is the recognition by the patient that it is a disorder for which there is treatment and cure. Treatment for dysmorphophobia may involve a combination of 25

body image stems from is resolved. Symptoms of dysmorphophobia: For beauty, nutrition and fitness professionals more easily to identify this disorder in their clients, here are some signs and symptoms of dysmorphophobia they should be aware of: • Frequent comparing their appearance to others’. • Excessive focus on a part of the body perceived as ‘imperfect’. • Seek surgery or other treatments, despite conflicting opinions or recommendations. • Seek confirmation of perceived defect or constant attempts to convince others that it is abnormal or excessive. • Refusal to attend social events in which perceived ‘imperfections’ can be noticed.

medication and psychotherapy; these will help patients overcome distorted notions they have of their physical appearance. When well executed, the combined treatments will produce positive outcomes and reduce anxiety and obsession, and increase self-esteem, which propitiate the patient to lead a happier life. Sources: Centre for Diseases of Beauty of the Interdisciplinary Laboratory of Research and Social Intervention (LIPIS), PUC-Rio and Centre of Psychology and Education (NUPE) www.adrianachiarimagazine.net

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FASHION

fringe Fernanda Andrade Journalist

The history of the fringe in fashion

They are synonymous with glamour and sophistication and are much older than imagined. The first mention of fringes appears in the Bible: God commanded the Israelites, through Moses, to have fringes on their garments. This was a particularity of the Hebrew Israelites’ attire and provided a visual reminder that God’s commandments should be observed. In North American Indian tribes, fringed clothing served as a device to help drain rainwater. The fringes were placed on the sides or edges of the clothes as long threads, and were made of leather or suede. In fashion, they appeared in the 1920s when Coco Chanel, influenced by the Bohemian movement, designed shorter and lighter garments with fringes. When the Charleston dance craze began, fringed dresses were prized by cabaret dancers as they added movement to the dance and had a great sensual appeal. In cinema, they appeared in cowboy outfits. Actor and showman William Cody eternalized wild west style fringes in the legendary character of Buffalo Bill. In the 60s, fringes experienced a return in folk styles. With a mixture of rock ’n’ roll and rustic or handmade elements it became a ‘must-have’ among the young. Since then they have never gone away and can be a focal point in any outfit.

For those still hesitant about fully embracing the style, a choice of accessories like purses and earrings could be a start. One thing is guaranteed: fringe may be more prevalent in some seasons, but they never really go out of style!

Wardrobe: personal collection | Makeup: Stela Carvalho Photos: Alessandro Filizzola

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>> YOUR SPACE <<

A SHINING MAN DISCOVERING “THE SUN DOOR” Sandro Vita, a Brazilian currently living in London is a young man that has already accumulated considerable success in his professional career.

Presently he concentrates in his writing career with his books: • THE SUN DOOR: It managed to get, in its first year of publication, more than 25 thousand readers in its Portuguese and English versions. The story is based on real events and is considered by many as an immigrant survival manual. The book has been nominated for the Itaú Oceanos Brasil Prize and the Babel Award by the Weltsprachen Foundation of Switzerland / Germany besides being shortlisted for the António de Macedo Prize in Portugal. • LIS -Finding a Greater Love: Published in 2018, is a critical and public success that portrays the effects of depression and the power of faith in a timely and engaging story. • Future literary projects: THE WITCH OF BELFORD ROXO (planned for 2018); WHEN SUNFLOWERS SLEEP (planned for 2019); BLACK LINE (A sequel to The Sun Gate- planned for 2019)

www.sandrovita.net

Sandro was also an IT entrepreneur in Brazil, which gave him a keen eye for the subtleties of everyday life. His writings have mystical and sociocultural messages. Sandro Vita endeavours to give back some of the blessings he received by supporting two philanthropic institutions: - Volunteer in the world; - ABA - Brazilian Association of Artists and Craftsmen. Nowadays, besides a career in writing, Sandro provides consultancy services on IT and corporate Storytelling and Mentoring for companies in Europe and Latin America. With so many achievements and future projects, Sandro Vita reflects on the belief that we can all grow, learn and conquer with the power of work.

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BODY AND SOUL

Creating a space

We tend to fill every space in our lives with something. Our closets are always full, our schedules likewise, and if we are single we are constantly searching for that “significant other”. We tend to fill our lives with certainties. We make plans for our holidays, our homes, and our careers. We plan every aspect of our lives. We do not leave any room for the unpredictable. As part of a materialistic and obsessively analytical society, we fear anything that is imprecise and often prefer to suffer that which is familiar to us rather than risk happiness in the unknown. There is nothing wrong with making plans, they have their place and the pragmatism coming from them allows us a predictable daily life. The problem arises when we restrict our lives to the realization of these plans. Our mind is too limited to comprehend the grand panorama of the infinite and intricate network of Existence. We perceive as real only what we manage to grasp with our limited physical senses; which are capable of perceiving only a small fraction of reality. We then narrow our lives even further as we make our way through what we think we can control and comprehend out of that small portion we catch with our sensory organs. Another serious problem caused by excessive planning is the frustration we feel when we fail to meet our expectations. And since those expectations are constantly getting higher, disappointment has become more commonplace than contentment.

One of the things life has taught me, through the hard but always fair and valuable, is the importance of creating a space.

André Baldo Writer and Pilgrim

Last, but not least, is the fact that by living ordinary lives, we also make ordinary plans which then get reflected in our self-esteem (more often lower than higher). Whereas Life itself is extraordinary, for it to flourish you need to create spaces! Life has taught me this lesson the hard way. When I decided to leave everything behind and travel the world, I was initially overwhelmed by a sense of emptiness: there were no plans or obligations. And even though the initial feeling was one of freedom and exhilaration, soon the usual workings of an addicted mind took over and I began to plan every aspect of the journey: the countries I would pass through, the places I would visit, the hotels I would stay in. In short, the entire trip was drawn on a detailed Excel spreadsheet. However, while waiting for my flight out of Brazil at Guarulhos Airport, I had my tablet stolen - and along with it all my plans and itineraries. When I arrived in South Africa, since I no longer had the address of the place where I would be staying, I had to take to the streets in search of a hotel. So, I got mugged and had three of the four credit cards I had brought with me taken. All this on the first day of the trip! After that, I got robbed a further five times. Thank heavens I was robbed! Thank heavens I broke my foot! Thank heavens I went through all sorts of adversities! Otherwise, it would have been just another normal trip where I would only have seen the usual tourist attractions and 32

experienced more of the same. Without the misfortunes imposed on me, I would never have diverted through the Middle East; without the lack of money I would never have lived in a cave in southern India, without the obstacles I would probably never have stopped in Nepal, where I was attacked by wild rhinoceros and I even ended up climbing Mount Everest. If all my plans had worked out, dear reader, I would probably not even be writing this for you now. His Holiness the Dalai Lama – with whom I had the opportunity of attending a retreat on this same trip - says that ‘sometimes not getting what we want is a tremendous luck.’ How many times the things that we seek turn out to be the source of deep suffering while the things we fear carry the seeds of wonderful opportunities? Let us not have so many certainties in Life. Let us be humble before the immense mystery that is always present on the journey. Physically it is impossible for two bodies to occupy the same space at the same time. In order for the new to happen, it is necessary to abandon the old (even if the old is in the future). Einstein said that ‘it’s crazy to expect different results if we keep on doing the same things’. So, let’s create spaces in our wardrobes, our relationships, our diaries, and our lives. Trust in Life. Life can take care of you better than you could ever take care of Life!

behavior

Grief and Loss in Separation

NazarĂŠ Jacobucci Psychologist

Grieving is a psycho-emotional process that every human being experiences when suffering a significant loss. In a divorce, there will be multiple losses from the rupture of the bond and a time for grieving will follow. Do not try to avoid it, you have to live through it!

Each person, in their own way and time, will experience the pain that comes from these losses. After the initial impact of separation has waned, and after those involved have allowed themselves to get in touch with their feelings and express them, they gradually start to understand the reality of their loss. As the process of grieving is completed, the void left by separation begins to be filled with other feelings and thoughts. When the person enters the stage of understanding, they become capable of making new plans, having new dreams and even making new friends.

When a couple decides to separate, they both will experience a variety of losses, the greatest being the loss of expectation that was created in relation to their marriage. Marital separation is not an easy task. However, there is a time when the strain of staying in that union is greater than the anguish of breaking up. Ending a relationship triggers a significant number of feelings. People get together in the hope that â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;foreverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is an attainable goal. Therefore, the resulting feeling of frustration is very common. When there are children, the anguish is even greater and the parents will feel guilty about their choice.

However, when people are unable to cope; when the pain and anguish brought about by the separation in such that it affects their work, family relationships and social life, professional help needs to be sought, so that they can come to terms with their losses. They need to understand and accept that losses, although destructive, are a part of our lives that require time and patience to be overcome. Only by understanding this can a new life be envisioned and those involved can, eventually, aspire to a new model of happiness

The process of separation involves several losses: the loss of daily coexistence with the person one has chosen to share their life with, of their mutual friends as well as their in-laws. Unfortunately, divorce represents for many a break with most of their social network. 34

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Habit Changing and Cancer Prevention Did you know that breast cancer has a 90-95% chance of resulting from lifestyle habits? Have you ever thought of the little changes you can adopt into your daily routine that can help its prevention? Here is my small contribution to the prevention of this sad disease that affects so many women. Keep in mind that these changes must be adopted and repeated routinely. I have tried to summarize changes in lifestyle that, I believe, can contribute to the prevention of many diseases, but specifically cancer. How about writing these goals down in a notebook or include these habits in your New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s resolutions?

Cristhiane Tozzo Nutritionist

1. Give up bad habits (quitting smoking and drinking can be a first step in the

prevention of breast cancer, and #zeroalcohol seems to be the best of recommendations)

2. Control your body weight (weight control and the adoption of a healthy diet help reduce most types of cancer)

3. Eat less red meat and salt (choose fish, free range eggs, and vegetables instead). Limit the consumption of red meats to twice a week and consume more organic vegetables. Use only sea salt and drastically reduce the consumption of processed and packaged foods.

4. Reduce carbohydrates and sugar intake (do not add sugar to teas and coffees). Avoid processed and sugary foods and carbohydrate-rich foods such as cakes, biscuits and sweet drinks that can compromise your body balance and lead to diseases)

5. Take Vitamin D (a high concentration of vitamin D decreases the risk of breast cancer by 50%, and exposure to sunlight makes us happier- take advantage of a walk in the park to expose your skin to the sun for at least 15 minutes a day)

health

6. Eat fewer calories per meal (small meals and fewer calories seem to help prevent many types of cancer). Although calories are not the most important thing in a healthy diet, you should pay attention to excesses. An example; some healthy foods like nuts should not be consumed in excess to keep the balance between reaping their benefits without causing cellular stress.

7. Eat more vegetables and pulses. A daily consumption of at least five servings (400

g) of a variety of non-starchy vegetables, like broccoli, courgette, aubergine, cabbage, and others is recommended. Chickpeas, lentils, and peas are also good foods in the fight against diseases)

8. Consume more plants (try to have vegetable only meals more often, plant a vegetable garden, use herbs as food seasoning and drink more herbal teas)

9. Live a more active life (set yourself realistic goals but understand that exercising is fundamental for living better. Do what you can, but do not neglect it)

10. Calm down! Science has proven that we encourage many types of cancers with

excessive stress and feelings of resentment, heartache, and situations of conflict. Try to adopt relaxing habits, ask forgiveness, reconcile, love more, distance yourself from harmful relationships, meditate, and simply breathe deeply. Clean air can be the simplest and best of remedies! 37

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>> YOUR SPACE <<

ALENT, PERSISTENCE AND ETHICS! PROFESSIONAL SUCCESS AND GLOBAL RECOGNITION ARE THE RESULTS. Dr IONÁ BRAMATI CASTELLARIN, is the only doctor in the world specializing in osteopathy for autistic children with gastrointestinal dysfunction. Her motivation when she came to London 24 years ago was to study. The study was accomplished and culminated in her PhD degree. And that was just the beginning. In her clinic in one of Europe’s most iconic addresses (Harley Street), she gave us an account of parts of her professional history: its mishaps, encouragements, accomplishments and her plans for the future. In the text below, our readers can follow a part of this success story. At age 18, when she started her Psychology training in Brazil, Ioná was not sure about what field she wanted to specialise in. She then decided to take part, along with some course colleagues, in a voluntary internship programme which involved developing motivational and recreational activities for a group of autistic children in a psychiatric clinic. Ioná had the idea of including relaxation sessions with the children at the end of each day of activities. This turned out to be a success! As a result, the children became calmer and their parents gratefully noticed the change. The directors of the clinic, however, felt differently; they halted the therapy, claiming lack of research basis for its application. This discouragement so upset Ioná that she decided to quit the course even though she had already attended it for two years. At age 23, when she got to London, at the suggestion of a friend, she decided to specialize in Osteopathy (Osteopathy is an area of complementary medicine that uses manual techniques to treat dysfunctions of the human body in a holistic way. It is based on the idea that all bodily systems are related, and therefore, the imbalances

Despite enduring many challenges and often being discouraged in her study of therapies to improve the well-being of autistic children, she did not give up and achieved success!

of one system affect the functioning of others. Osteopathy focuses on the cause of the problem, not just its symptoms, in order to restore lost or impaired functions.) Dr Ioná Bramati studied for her Bachelor’s degree in Osteopathy on a full-time four-year course at the British College of Osteopathic Medicine in London. Her training involved studying mechanical dysfunctions, muscle and joint injuries, and how they affect the system holistically. In her thesis, she proposed an innovative idea that combined concepts of visceral osteopathy (used to optimize blood and lymphatic flow to internal organs to aid the restoration of their functions) in the treatment of autistic children with gastrointestinal problems. Initially, this was met with resistance from the school’s faculty, but she persevered. After many meetings with the school’s ethics and research council, she managed to start the research. And thus, the journey started at age 18

was now progressing. And it was because of the success of the initial research work that she got an invitation from the faculty directors to further her studies at PhD level, and all funded by the school. The invitation was accepted with great joy, and this joy is still present as she continues to study and research in the area. WOMAN, WIFE, MOTHER AND PROFESSIONAL After 8 years investing hard work on her doctorate at the University of Westminster in London, travelling to various European countries to present her work and the results of her research, and teaching at various colleges, she feels that she has successfully managed to reconcile her professional, family and social life with her work at IBCcare. But she still has many plans for the future! Among them, she says she wants to continue researching into gastrointestinal treatments in autistic children and join forces to create a centre in England for specific osteopathic treatments based on 39

innovative research results. She has a message: “It is very important that health professionals listen closely to their patients. Generally, patients know their own bodies’ functioning, and this knowledge can help practitioners to target treatments more effectively. Without this exchange of knowledge and mutual respect, the recovery of problems like functional biomechanics could take much longer. “ Presently at the IBCcare clinic Dr Ioná treats patients of all ages with musculoskeletal problems that include: protrusions and disc hernias; sciatic nerve complaints; stiff necks; acute or chronic low back pain; tendonitis; myofascial pain; sprains and traumas, as well as her speciality of autistic children with gastric problems. Dr Ioná Bramati-Castellarin IBCcare 9 Upper Wimpole Street London W1G 6LJ Tel: 0207 7924499 www.adrianachiarimagazine.net

BEAUTY

AREOLA

Micropigmentation

Hello! In this issue, I will talk about a subject that transcends the realm of beauty. It goes beyond what we call aesthetic beauty; I call it an act of love. I refer to the technique of Paramedical Micropigmentation- a procedure in the areolas, the small circular area surrounding the nipples. This procedure is used after most cases of mastectomy resulting from breast cancer treatments. It involves the reconstruction of the mammary halos that are removed with mastectomy surgery. Pigments are applied to the skin to redraw the halo. Although Paramedical Micropigmentation is most commonly used in women who have undergone mastectomy (breast reconstruction as a result of cancer treatment), mammoplasty (breast augmentation) or mastopexy (breast reduction), it can also benefit those who are unhappy with their breasts because they find their areolas too light or small. In Paramedical Micropigmentation procedures, the nipples’ areolas are redesigned. The procedure is delicate but not painful since the majority of patients do not have sensitivity in the area. It must, however, always be performed by a professional trained in the area of Paramedical Micropigmentation. After the initial treatment most

Roseane Shekinah Makeup Artist

patients will require follow-ups to ensure optimal pigmentation results. Further treatments may be necessary in case the pigmentation fades and whether these will be required varies from case to case. Paramedical Micropigmentation is not a definitive procedure. On average it should be done every 1 to 2 years, depending on the patient. We use a safe semipermanent pigment on patients who have undergone breast reconstruction. This pigment is extremely delicate, so it fades over time. The aim of micropigmentation of nipples and areolas is to improve the aesthetic appearance of the breast and, consequently, the patients’ self-esteem. Customer satisfaction is guaranteed, although the results of the treatment will depend on factors such as skin type as well as the methods used in the procedure. The results are 100% positive and include improvements in body image and self-esteem. As professionals we are happy to be able to help post-operative patients, as this is, without doubt, a complicated time for them. To share the patients’ joy with the results is an incredible experience. See you in the next issue.

PROCEDURE

ANA VIANA

Photo: Simone Bello

Suddenly I whole world co lost my ground and my years, paintingllapsed. I spent days, months, Moments of diffa canvas in black and white. I saw my body iculties and uncertainties. mastectomy, I sabeing mutilated by extreme a thousand q uesw myself becoming sad and dreamed of reco tions going unanswered. I the feeling of wvering my self-esteem and with my body ba ellbeing with myself and ck a mother and a . Because I am a woman, look at my refl wife, it was difficult to recognize myse ection in the mirror and not dreamed, and evlf in it. But dreams are to be some point in th en when they are distant at I did not give u e future they will come true. p, a special place I kept my dream alive in its part, which and allowed time to play placed in my wit did with mastery when it ay my dream into two “angels” that turned absolutely remarreality. The difference is happy. It was be kable, and today I feel It may be just an autiful! Simple? Perhaps! lost theirs, it m aureole but for those who ak today I feel mu es all the difference, and ch Roseane Shekin happier and complete. have turned my a and Camila Pedroso bright colourfu black and white life into a women, like me,l watercolour. I’m sure other self-worth restorwill also have their sense of ed with th of areola rebuil e brilliant work ding.

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07597462121 Dr Vania Healthcare

fashion

I have been living in London for a few months now, and as some of you already know, I am a plus-sized woman, because I am above the size considered desirable by society, which, by the way, still holds prejudices against larger women. My experience with fashion in London has, to some extent, been relatively satisfactory. But to tell you the truth, I believe this is because my size varies between 16 and 18. I think that women bigger than me might think differently. Most stylists and dressmakers still have the mentality that we larger women should not wear the same kind of clothes that slim women wear. If we get into this debate I will never stop talking and that’s not my goal. An afternoon spent visiting some of London’s clothes shops and trying on their

garments, led me to reach some conclusions. These proved to be very useful to me because now I can do my shopping in a more focused and effective way, albeit still not totally satisfactorily. Starting with Primark, the most popular Fast-Fashion brand, I can say that the experience left me very satisfied. Their jeans are usually available up to size 20 and that includes their non-lycra and even their ‘distressed’ lines. A wonderful surprise! And all at affordable prices to boot! Discussing quality at this stage is a step too far as we cannot expect too much from a £15 piece. But Primark offers the perfect cost-benefit ratio. Their blouses also leave nothing to be desired in size and, if you dig a bit, you will probably find something 44

suitable for you; just be prepared to invest some time and patience. At H & M I was not so happy. Their blouses are usually available only up to size 14 and occasionally 16 but no bigger. The same goes for their jeans, smart pants and skirts. I was sad because they have better designed and different articles that appeal to my dress style. But I found almost nothing that would fit me comfortably. Their sizes and models on offer are not very democratic, in my view. Which is a pity, because their clothes really appeal to me! One of my biggest frustrations, however, was Zara. I simply love their dresses but I could never find anything that would fit me.

THE CHALLENGES OF BEING A

PLUS SIZE

WOMAN IN BRITAIN

Definitely, Zara is a shop for thin people. I feel a pang of envy when I hear of those crazy promotions where those beautiful coats, pants, and dresses go for less than half their price. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like a fairy-tale but one in which there is definitely no room for me. But, nothing is so bad that cannot be improved. When I enter Marks & Spencer I am in heaven. This is where I feel embraced, understood and supported. Many may disagree with me, but I find their products of excellent taste. Quality clothes, fairly priced, perfect cuts and well put together. I can find my size in all models of skirts, trousers, blouses, and dresses. It is a fantastic experience and 100% satisfactory. It only has one drawback: it requires more

Marcela Ximenes Journalist

investment; I need to prepare myself financially to shop at M&S. On the plus side, you can be sure of buying something of quality that will last a very long time.

addition to the options Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve mentioned, you will be able to find cool clothes in shops like TK Max, Debenhams, Next, Dorothy Perkins and many others.

I conclude that in London it is possible to dress well, even if your body size is outside the norm. I believe that there is still a lot of room for development, and I have to say that in terms of Plus-Sized fashion, Brazil is one step ahead.

It takes some patience to screen through clothes displays and perhaps get advice from a salesperson sensitive to the needs of this market.

This sector is well developed there and there is an eager and ever-expanding market to cater for it. In fact, the time when larger people only had few and poor choices has been left behind. I venture to say that there is still a lot of change coming their way since the taboo is being increasingly challenged. In 45

We live in a city where people are not in the habit of judging the way others dress. We are thus free to wear not only what is comfortable but also what makes us feel confident, strong, and empowered, in short, clothes that reflect our personality and character; after all, clothes say a lot about us.

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Dr Marcos Sforza Plastic Surgeon

In what cases is hybrid breast augmentation recommended? Some women would like to have larger breasts but are suspicious about large implants, due to the risk of rejection and contracture, or, simply, the presence of the foreign body itself. Potential patients will also need to have surplus fat in another region of the body, which will be removed and transplanted. Patients will benefit from a smaller implant, which certainly involves fewer complications, and also the removal of some undesirable fat from another part of the body to accomplish the desired size of their breasts.

HYBRID BREAST ENLARGEMENT: fat and silicone combined for better results

What are the objectives? The objective is to increase the size of the breasts using a hybrid technique that combines small silicone implants and fat grafting to achieve better results. Presently, BBL (Brazilian Buttock Lift) is a very popular procedure for the gluteal region and patients are already well informed about the benefits of silicone implants and fat grafting. What we did is an adaptation of the established surgical technique.

How will my breasts look, in terms of size and consistency? The breasts will have their size increased or redesigned as desired. The surgical intervention will also improve their consistency and shape. The breasts will feel softer and recovery will be quicker. Can the injected fat be absorbed? There will certainly be some degree of absorption of these grafts. A hypercorrection (30%) is planned in anticipation of this absorption. Usually, any absorption will occur within the first three months. After this time, losses will hardly occur.

The fat then goes through a very modern method, called Puregraft, before finally being grafted around the breast tissue to increase the total volume of the breasts.

What will be the assessment of breasts with ultrasound and mammography after this procedure? The hybrid technique positions the graft around the mammary tissue in the subcutaneous tissue. Thus, fat grafts will not interfere with future breast examinations. Even when large volumes of graft are used, the safety of the technique is maintained.

What is the recovery time? Patients usually return to their normal activities within a week. Physical exercise can be resumed in about a month.

How soon will the final result show? Although immediate results are very good, it is only after the third month that the breasts will reach their final shape.

How is it done? It starts with the removal of excess fat from other body regions (abdomen, inner side of the thighs, hips).

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ENDOMETRIAL CANCER

Saúde

Dr Vania Martins Gynaecologist

Endometrial cancer (internal layer of the uterus) usually occurs among women over 40 years of age, during their perimenopause and post menopause. Most cases are diagnosed in women aged between 50 and 60 years of age.

Adenocarcinoma accounts for more than 80% of endometrial cancers and can spread outside the uterus through the bloodstream or lymphatic vessels.

Typically, vaginal bleeding occurs outside the menstrual period (called intermenstrual bleeding). The diagnosis is made through 2D / 3D transvaginal ultrasound examination and the use of a camera placed inside the uterus to observe the cavity (hysteroscopy examination). At the same time, an endometrial biopsy is performed.

Signs and symptoms Most women will experience abnormal uterine bleeding, for example postmenopausal bleeding and recurrent premenopausal metrorrhagia. Vaginal discharge may also occur weeks or months before postmenopausal bleeding.

Treatment varies depending on the stage of the disease: it may require a complete removal of the uterus, fallopian tubes, and ovaries, as well as any pelvic nodes. In very advanced cases, radiotherapy, chemotherapy or hormone therapy are recommended.

Diagnosis • Gynaecological examination • Transvaginal ultrasound 2D / 3D to check inside the uterus • Hysteroscopy with biopsy of the cavity of the uterus

Endometrial cancer is more common in developed countries where consumption of saturated fat is high, like the United States, England, and some Arab countries. In the United States, this is the fourth most common cancer in women, affecting 1 in 50 women, becoming more common as the metabolic syndrome (obesity, high blood pressure and diabetes) increases.

Once diagnosed, pre-treatment evaluation includes serum electrolytes, renal and hepatic function tests, comprehensive blood count, chest X-ray, ECG, and pelvic and abdominal CT (to check for extrauterine or metastatic cancer). Prognosis The prognosis is worse for high-grade, more widespread tumours and for elderly patients. The average survival rates over 5 years are: • Stage I or II: 70 to 95% • Stage III or IV: 10 to 60%

Aetiology The most relevant risk factors are: • Obesity- BMI of 30 or above • Diabetes • Hypertension • Hypothyroidism • Metabolic syndrome • Polycystic ovarian syndrome • Nulliparity (never experienced pregnancy) • Late menopause (55 or older) • Anovulation (ovulatory dysfunction)

Treatment • Generally, removal of the uterus, fallopian tubes, and ovaries by laparotomy, laparoscopy or robotic surgery • Removal of lymph nodes from the para-aortic pelvis • Pelvic radiotherapy with or without chemotherapy for stage II or III • Individualized therapy for stage IV • Hormonal treatment to reduce lung, vaginal and mediastinal lesions • Endometrial cancer is the third most common cancer in women, and as the prevalence of metabolic syndrome increases, it may become even more common. • The prognosis is better for Type I tumours, which tend to be diagnosed in younger women or in perimenopause • Transvaginal ultrasound and endometrial biopsy are recommended for women with abnormal bleeding, particularly those above 40 years of age. • Surgical staging is traditionally performed by laparotomy, laparoscopy, or by a robotic surgical system.

Other risk factors to consider: • Oestrogen without progesterone use • Use of tamoxifen for more than 5 years • History of pelvic radiotherapy • Personal or family history of first-degree breast or ovarian cancer • Heredity represents about 10% of all cases Pathology Endometrial cancer is usually preceded by endometrial hyperplasia (thickening of the inner lining of the uterus). 48

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SPECIAL

LEANDRO KARNAL Non-acceptance of Differences Makes the World a Horrible Place

52 50

produced one of the most barbarous beliefs of the 20th century, indeed a model of barbarism. What do I propose again in this text? Barbarians are all those who propose the exclusion of the other. Civilized are those who propose the acceptance of the existence of the other, be they Yanomami Indians or Germans. They avoid terminologies like Traditional Civilization and Barbarism, and offer a way out of this path and show us this way. I think that fundamentalists who preach the elimination of the other should be deemed pathological racists, and have that pathology countered by means of education and, if education fails, be imprisoned. Why? Because it is not possible to live among people who want to exclude some people from humanity. It’s simply not possible.

Not all prejudices generate discrimination. But all discrimination comes from prejudices. It is necessary for us to pay attention to our prejudices so that they do not turn into discrimination. Everything Hell represents is contained in the word discrimination, because xenophobia, homophobia, and all other words used to conceptualize the behaviour of people who do not accept differences stem from it. Their inability to accept can lead them to end up hating those considered different. Discrimination, if left unchallenged, can generate phobias. According to researcher Paul Errara, the word phobia comes from the Greek word for terror or strangulation. Phobos was a Greek god who caused panic and fear in the enemies of those who worshiped him.

Non-acceptance of differences is a problem that denotes a pathology, low intelligence, or lack of morality. Or a combination of all three. Fundamentalism need not ‘lack morality’. I propose education based on the principles of Active Tolerance; principles that I defended in the five-volume guide for religious teachings in São Paulo- these are lay teaching; not based on religion. In these we proposed something called active tolerance. And what is that? It is not simply that I tolerate you being a Presbyterian while I am a Catholic; it goes beyond that. I think it’s fundamental that diversity itself exists. There would be no world and the world would be a terrible place if you were not a Presbyterian and I a Catholic. This is what active tolerance is. It’s not enough to declare: ‘I can tolerate gays, as long as they do not get too close to me’. It is critical that gays exist. It is fundamental that people of different ethnicities exist and that there are multiple and diverse opinions, even opinions contrary to mine.”

A few months ago, we watched the news of a massacre at a gay nightclub in Orlando. The homophobic gunman killed 50 people and injured 53. If we still do not know how to deal with integral differences, how will we deal with ‘polysexuality’? Professor Leandro Karnal makes a relevant proposal for reflection on the subject. We have transcribed an excerpt from his lecture: Active Tolerance. “There is a proposal by professor Francis Wolff, in the book Civilization and Barbarism, in which he asks the question, ‘Who is the present-day barbarian?’ The book’s editor, Professor Adauto Novaes, asks in one of the first articles ‘Who is the barbarian?’. In classical Greece, it was customary to say: ‘Barbarians are those who do not speak Greek, who are outside the Greek culture. For the Romans, barbarians were those outside the Roman culture.’ For the Chinese, barbarians were all those who were not Chinese. The barbarian was then seen as uncivilized. The proposal of this text is to think that barbarism has flourished, for example, with the rise of Nazism, in Germany, the most culturally developed country in Europe, in the country that produced the works of Kant. The country that read Kant, and also produced Bach and Beethoven, in short, a country that has produced so much culture, also

“Not all prejudices generate discrimination. But all discrimination comes from prejudices. It is necessary for us to pay attention to our prejudices so that they do not turn into discrimination.” Source: Portal Raizes

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BUSINESS

The POWER of narratives: what do stories have to do with entrepreneurship? Michele Oliveira Storyteller

Did you know that your way of doing business is related, in a big way, to the stories you’ve heard since childhood? If you’ve ever told a child a story, you will have noticed that they always ask you to tell it again and again. That’s because, so long as the story has something to add, the enchantment remains. Listening to and sharing stories help us learn about the complexity of being human and make sense of the things we go through in our lives. Have you ever wondered why your life is so similar to those of people around you? Well, our lives look alike because we all share similar values and ambitions, which we have learned from stories. They are the lenses through which we see the world. 52

And when one dares to act differently? Like the person who stops using their car and rethinks mobility, tries to consume and shop less and starts growing their own food, resigns from their job and seeks to connect with their soul? This person is treated with suspicion and seen as mad. But is it really madness or is it someone attempting to live by their own rules, to experience freedom, and to write a different story based on values that make sense to them? Being aware of why we do what we do and choose what we choose is what determines how much we are subject to the power of narratives in our lives. In an invisible way, we are attached to strings that move us like puppets. Some of these powerful stories:

The Great Engine Sprouting from the Industrial Revolution, this narrative has induced us to behave like cogs in a great machine- both at work and at home-, to exploit nature without care, to lose track of the meaning of what we do, by making relationships more competitive and less collaborative.

And what does all this have to do with you? As an entrepreneur, being aware of the forces behind the way we do business is essential. We can choose practices in line with the so-called Conscious Capitalism- of care and respect for people and nature - or follow the Business as Usual model and reproduce formulas that have brought us to the present moment of growing social inequality, insecurity, endangered environment, ephemeral relationships and the eternal sensation of not having enough time. David Kortem, reflecting on New Narratives says that: ‘When we tell a wrong story, we reach a wrong future.’ Does it make sense?

Sacred Money Have you ever wondered how many of your choices are based on financial issues? From working for money to being able to buy material goods and pay for education. We live in a money-based trading society.

Religion With aspects related to guilt, patriarchy, and the acceptance of an unattainable unity of power, that ended up influencing the organization of big companies around the world.

When planning a business, perhaps the first step is to ask yourself: ‘What future do you wish to build,’ and start moving towards it. That is what it means to plan a business with a new consciousness. A good business example- and one that has come from women- is the natural cosmetics company Almanati, from Campinas, winner of the 2018 EcoEra Award (which rates the fashion, beauty and design markets according to sustainability indicators). Almanati prides itself on building fairer, happier and more caring relationships that will impact future generations. Their choice of suppliers of raw ingredients and packaging for their 100% natural lines of cosmetics is in line with their philosophy. They are well worth checking. New stories, to gain wings and fly, really need to have truth. Your way of conducting businesses can inspire others to think differently and build a future we can all be proud of. Let’s nurture our stories, from an early age. www.adrianachiarimagazine.net

Business

In India,

WOMEN Lead the Information

Technology Industry

Ronise Nepomuceno Journalist

A recent survey by the Open University revealed that in India the proportion of women working in IT is much higher than that in the UK.

While in the UK the percentage of women employed in this area is about 17%, in India women represent more than 35% of the total. In general, the low number of women in this industry is linked to the stereotype of IT being considered a male domain. But by all accounts, such a stereotype has never existed in Indian culture. In fact, it did not exist in Western countries until 1970. Between World War II and the late 1960s, women dominated the computer industry in the United Kingdom. According to Mary Hicksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; book Programmed Inequality, at the time the country was the world leader in electronic computing; from 1944 to 1974, women made up the majority in this field. They were responsible for operating computers that were as big as a whole room, performing data processing and organizing files. But these tasks were associated with secretarial work and, therefore, seen as menial. By the early 1970s, there was a change in the way computing was perceived. The British government and industry realized how powerful computers were. It was from then on that women began to be replaced by men, who in turn were welcomed with more generous remuneration and higher job status. The work environment gradually become more hostile to women, prompting many to abandon the area. But all this discrimination proved costly for the British computer industry. The shortage of labour has led the UK to lose its leadership in IT. Meanwhile, India has become the second largest exporter of Information Technology services and is now the largest supplier to the United States and the European Union. In 2016 the Peterson Institute for International Economics surveyed 22,000 global companies and proved that those that increased the number of women in management by up to 30% experienced a 15% increase in their profits. It is no accident that we now see more initiatives aimed at increasing the opportunities for women in IT. Gender diversity contributes not only to speed in problem-solving and innovation but also to increased profits.

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>> Your space <<

E-2 VISA ALLOWS CITIZENS WITH DUAL CITIZENSHIP TO LIVE IN THE UNITED STATES by Daniel Toledo

The E-2 Visa was created so that citizens of countries that have shipping and trade agreements with the United States can work and live in the country with their families. It is a temporary visa granted for a period of two to five years, depending on each case. Most European countries are eligible, with the exception of Portugal. Besides dual citizenship, applicants need to have an amount ranging from 120 to 150 thousand dollars, working capital and willingness to undertake and invest. The complexity of this visa is present in the risk analysis and implementation of business, which is totally subjective. Granting of the E-2 Visa involves an interpretation that is often full of criteria. The success rate of the application will also depend on the professional advice the prospective investor receives. In the year 2017, the Loyalty team supervised 70 E-2 Visa applications. Structured and known franchises that already are established cannot be part of the application. Only start-ups that target new markets and are opening their first store in the United States meet the criteria. The advisor presenting the application needs to make clear that employees, equipment and inventory have already been contracted, that a rental agreement has been signed and that the proposed planning is being fulfilled. It is not enough to present the bank statement with the necessary amount for immigration. It is paramount to demonstrate management skills. Daniel Toledo is a lawyer, founding partner of Loyalty Miami and a business consultant. For more information, visit www.loyalty.miami or contact us by email at contato@loyalty.miami. Toledo also has a YouTube channel with more than 55,000 followers www.youtube.com/ loyaltymiamiusa

COVER

CELEBRATING

indigenous

ART AND

FASHION

Foto: Paulo Correa

Marcia Kambeba Master in Geography

Fashion in indigenous cultures is closely linked to the way people relate to their bodies. It is on their bodies that they paint their identity. The body gradually takes on a visual and symbolic identity. It all begins with the preparation of the janipapo fruit dye. A careful ritual involves selecting the right fruits; they must not be ripe, but greenish, but not too green since they need to yield strong juices. The fruits are grated, pressed and darkened with charcoal and only then will the juice be ready to be used to decorate the body, to draw memories and identities on the skin.

admired and wished to wear them. And so, we see not only the creation of the Kambeba fashion but also its marketing. And besides clothes, the Kambeba made long boots for men and short ones for women- these were also traded. And latex was used to make household items. Nowadays indigenous fashion continues to thrive in indigenous villages and even appears in shop windows of big cities in the shape of accessories and printed fabrics.

The body then receives the colourful addition of feathers and the beauty of necklaces. We paint body graphics with precise strokes and details that add beauty and uniqueness to the culture. These same graphics also appear in the clothes we wear. The body of a native must be painted. In Brazil, indigenous villages hold contests to choose their Cunhã Poranga (beautiful girl). And one of the items being judged is their body paintings. These contests showcase the latest indigenous fashion which will then go on to influence other women in the creation of their own art or fashion in connection with their people and culture. In Brazil, the influence of indigenous people’s culture is prevalent in fashion shows. Be it the graphic prints on the clothes worn by models, the fibres woven into their necklaces, or in a feather detail in their earrings - we notice influences of the indigenous people’s culture in Brazilian fashion.

I realize that indigenous fashion influences not only native women in their villages but also non-indigenous women in cities. Once I attended a show at SESC SP and, after the show, a few women came to me and asked where I had got the dress I was wearing. I explained that it was made in my village from raw cotton fabrics and been dyed with dyes from jungle plants. These women often want to wear indigenous necklaces, bracelets, and earrings and they end up looking just like an indigenous woman in the village. We are imitated in the ways we dress and wear our art. I think this is important because we realize how rich our cultural diversity can be.

Graphism is a graphic way of communication among indigenous peoples in Brazil. We believe these graphics give us strength because they connect us to nature, the animal kingdom, and the spiritual world. We strengthen ourselves with energies from the forces of good. We protect ourselves against evil energies by wearing rings made from coconut shells and other seeds. For us, these seeds neutralize negative energies that, instead of contaminating us, get diffused by the ring. Some graphics represent wild animals and the force of these animals is transferred to those who sport the graphics. It is nature helping, dressing, and protecting us.

As early as the 16th century indigenous women and men already had their own fashion. As I often say, my people did not use to go about naked then. Men wore long-sleeved shirts with an opening in the armpits, I believe, to prevent perspiration, and knee-high trousers. All fabrics were made from cotton, which was grown in large quantities. Women wore shawls, and girls were short skirts and blouses. Other peoples, unused to wearing clothes, when they saw the Kambeba wearing them, found them beautiful and wanted to wear them too. It’s interesting to note that they made clothes and also sold them to people who

Where would fashion be without creativity? Indigenous peoples know that creativity well. They make bio jewellery from natural materials. They use fish scales in their art and their flesh for food. Bracelets made from animal bones are not just beautiful ornaments; they can also offer protection. Let’s celebrate indigenous art! 59

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cover

THE NEW INDIGENOUS

WOMEN Marcia Kambeba

Valnei Nunes Journalist

Photographer, researcher, teacher, singer, poet, actress, historian, writer, wife, mother, human rights activist and the first person to attain a Master’s degree among her people. Marcia Wayna, a talented indigenous woman of 39, has much to teach us, and her awareness of the forest and indigenous peoples makes us believe that the world is and could be much better. She was born in Belém do Solimões, a Tikuna people’s aldeia (indigenous village), in the High Solimões, Amazonas. At the age of nine, she moved to São Paulo, and recounts that she “learned a lot from her grandmother’s fight” and that her grandmother “always welcomed indigenous people who came to study, and that motivated me in my militancy and self-affirmation.” Hers is a history full of changes and choices that resulted in deep knowledge of her people and roots as well as of the world outside the aldeias. Marcia is part of a people who descend directly from the Incas and challenge the old concept of the “savage Indians with no culture or identity and who go about naked.” She presently lives in Pará and describes the indigenous peoples of the aldeias as “people who never went about naked. They planted cotton and made their own clothes. Married women wore long shawls and young women wore shorter skirts. They extracted latex from rubber trees and used it to make every day utensils and boots for men and women”. Regarding her art, Marcia says that she uses art as a de-colonizing tool. “I’m also an actress and this makes me realise how the art of the city, if well used, can serve as a tool of resistance and education. The biggest obstacle I see in the struggle where we have art as a partner is the lack of opportunities to show what we have and what we know. Indigenous women seek the city to study so they can better fight for their rights, which are collective rights like education, culture, health, etc. I myself studied in the city and always return to the aldeias to contribute something back and also to learn from them”.

Foto: Paulo Correa

Marcia is a symbol of resistance to the imposition of cultural exchanges within a country that promotes indigenous deterritorialization. She says “that her people used to be politically organized and would make alliances with other peoples and jointly rule over their territories. In those days there were no borders or territorial divisions. It was an extensive aldeia- with different peoples living side by side. Perhaps one day, Brazilian politicians could learn from the natives? I have faith in that. In times of crisis we suffer even more. They stop projects that seek to safeguard our lands and try to evict us from coveted territories. There is general sense of neglect.” She says that “in the aldeia indigenous women increasingly seek to enter the cacique domain, to take part in leadership and have a voice in decision-making. www.adrianachiarimagazine.net

They are present in literature, music and films about their people. It is a new reality where women are not only housewives but also leaders. We also produce fashion and artwork with elements of nature, which are traded and generate income for the aldeia. I notice that the strength and determination of women grow both in- and outside the aldeia, into a movement of cultural resistance. It signals a new era.” Marcia was criticized for refusing to run for office as a congresswoman; she believes that her political struggle banner is her music, literature, photography, and that “we do politics in everyday situations, without all the political manoeuvring.” Marcia laments the death of councilwoman Marielle Franco, and considers her murder “as a brutal violence against women. We are victims of violence. Indigenous women have always suffered from violence outside the aldeia. Prejudice is a form of violence. In the aldeias, women are sexually assaulted for not being indigenous, and as a threat used to forcefully evict people from their lands. We also have murders in the aldeias. In short, women have always fought and will continue fighting against violence in and out of their homes. Marielle was sadly silenced by the violence and politics of the city, which shocked the nation.” Marcia Wayna wrote a poem in homage to Marielle Franco, published in an anthology released in July, in Rio de Janeiro: “They silenced a voice, They saddened a smile,

But the strength of the female soul The courage of the affirmation, Your presence in society, Remembered as an act of courage Marked for prosperity.” Marcia believes that nowadays “our main struggle is for the preservation of our ancestral knowledge, and the physical territory that comprises the aldeia, for health and education which are everybody’s rights both inside and outside the aldeia. We fight for our rights, we want to be respected as a people and as human beings. We are no longer in the 16th century, but still we are seen as exotic and folkloric. We are indigenous, we are a people, we are a nation and we have the wisdom that comes from the forests, rivers and lands. We have sacred beliefs. We fight so that the city does not wipe us out, we have been resisting decimation on a daily basis since the 16th century, when we started suffering. We fight so that the religions that come from the cities do not kill our beliefs and mysticism, and do not threaten the culture and identity present in the rituals, especially in the memory of the place.” Academia, history and resistance Marcia got her Masters in Geography at UFAM, Manaus. She studied the Omágua/ Kambeba peoples, their culture, identity, deterritorialization and relocation. She studied their history, rituals, ways of dressing and customs, cooking, dancing, singing, kinship relationship, etc. Then, she lived in the aldeia Tururucari Uka (the house of Tururucari). “In this Kambeba aldeia I witnessed their struggles and 62

managed to draw a panorama of their migration processes. The invasions that the aldeia endures and is subject to. The invaders tear down houses and fell any trees which are in their way.” In 2013 Marcia used resources from the sale of a house to get her first book published. Now, PUC- Pontifícia Universidade Católica, sponsored a 200-copy edition of her new poetry book, “The Place of Knowledge”, which will be released in October this year, at an event called “Amazônia” in Porto Alegre, RS. Marcia works, gives lectures, teaches classes, records music which she composes in both Tupi and Portuguese. It is, however, photography that better showcases her activism. She exhibits in schools and often finances the exhibitions herself. She says that “we continue to believe in a feminine voice, in education efforts for decolonization, and see children as the future. It’s for them that I compose and write so that they can have a record of their history.” Territory, a place to call home On the subject of territory and the demarcation of indigenous lands, Marcia believes that “all that we seek is to maintain in the aldeias the culture and identity that is present in a given territory. In the land we seek to build territoriality; to keep the culture alive and give cultural identity to the place. Without land we cannot experience our territorialities, which are also memorial and symbolic. When we demand ‘demarcation now’, we want to secure our rights and those of our children to a place where they can grow and live as a nation.”

The Brazilian Indigenous and Non-Indigenous Women Marcia compares Brazilian indigenous and non-indigenous women, and concludes that “there are vast differences. I start by saying that the aldeias and cities are different universes. In the aldeias the customs are different; consider the woman who is a mother and also works in the fields, who washes clothes and bathes her children on the river banks. She may be a cacique, a leader who takes care of the aldeia as well as her home. She preserves ancestral knowledge and has a mission to transmit it to the young and respect the aldeia’s rituals. She may have knowledge of the city. She knows how to move in the aldeias and in the city and fights for her rights and those of her communities. In the city life is constantly rushed. We have no time to listen to the river, the birds, or to see a tree that was felled by the wind. The pace does not allow us time to appreciate the landscape changes that happen all the time around us. We walk fast, we eat fast, and everything is linked to money. In the aldeia if one does not have enough, someone else will help out and no one goes hungry. In the city one always lives in fear, locked behind fences; in the aldeia you have the freedom to go out and leave the house door open. In short, I think that city women would not be able to live in the aldeias. Just as it would be difficult for an indigenous woman to abandon the aldeia and live in the cities. They may eventually get used to it, but it would take time. I realize that nowadays city women increasingly seek to know about their ancestry and whether they have indigenous heritage. I see this a lot in my lectures. Many want to know more about indigenous cultures and support us. But we still have a long way to go.”Marcia says that feminism exists in the aldeias and in indigenous cultures, but women do not notice it. “The moment they understand feminism, women will realize that it takes place in aldeias in their defence of territories and the leadership roles they assume, and also their fight against invading loggers. It is part of the movement that is already within us.” Many thousands of Marcias, Marielles and Marias inspire other women of all religions, ethnicities, and colours to become aware and fight for their rights and ecological values, in a planet mistreated by men. May the law of women conjure up all knowledges and elevate society to the fullest common law among all humans inhabiting this planet so full of earth, water and life.

MESSAGE FR

OM THE IND

Photo: Paulo Correa

IGENOUS W

OMEN TO T

HE READER

S OF

ADRIANA CH

IARI My message w hich I leave to the readers is values, our cu that we should lture and iden get to know an tity. Each pers our history an d value our sa on has their own d value our he cred history, we ha ritage, which we read more ve ar e fundamenta to get to know and know mor l for our form e about the in formation of th ation as people digenous peop e Brazilian pe . May les who contr ople. May we where enviro ib uted to the le arn to think of nmental awar eness prevails a w or in the trees. T ld free from po . And, finally, he forest has it llution may we seek to s mystique, its May we not ru recharge our en en ergies, and we sh through ou ergies can benefit by r lives and, in May we learn the process, n tapping into it to hear the vo eglect noticin . ice of silence. g a flower and its scent. Marcia Wayn a

IN THE RIVER WHERE I GREW UP In the river where I grew up I can no longer swim Dams and constructions Don’t allow me any air. By the river where I grew up I can no longer walk They threw poison into the water, How can I teach my child to fish? I want a hug, I feel cold. But where are the enchanted gods? Gone. Only Yara, the mother of waters, was left Sitting on the shore embracing the river. I am indigenous, not an invader, My feet know this soil well. I want to live in the land of the ancestors, And see my people keep their rituals. Where’s the water source? Choked by building. The spring has dried, with thirst I remain. To drink water is getting harder every day. Pollution and chemical products Made ill the jabuti, Agonized and languished. They threw plastic straws into the river. The unsuspecting and greedy tucunaré When swallowing, were choked. They are actions of progress. To the men in ties, it’s a success. They are pictures of a pain. Because of the dam, the village was moved. The animals rotted, Dead trees without colour, Birds sang sadly, A lamentation of dread. What will happen tomorrow? I do not know. But we will resist the tractor.

Marcia Kambeba 64

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BEAUTY

Products for the Autumn/ Winter Season

Fernanda Andrade Journalist

1. Ageloc Lumi Spa -Besides cleansing and exfoliating, this device promotes benefits like smoother and clearer skin. Greater skin softness, luminosity and freshness, less visible pores and younger looking skin. 2. Advanced Night Repair Eye Syn -Good for dark circles, bags and wrinkles. This product combines three technologies to achieve amazing results. The product has only just been announced but has already created a buzz. It will be released in September. 3. Veet Sensitive Precision - Removes hair from delicate areas of the face quickly and

6. Corretivo cremoso Nars - It is enriched with active moisturizers beneficial to the skin. A multi-purpose concealer that instantly masks dark circles under the eyes and other skin imperfections, and does not mark expression lines. Provides medium to high coverage and a natural and radiant finish with long-lasting results. 7. Instant Illusions Nº7 - A light and velvety formula that creates an instant illusion as it leaves the skin smoother, radiant and youthful. Can also be used as a primer. 8. Studio Fix Fluido MAC - A modern foundation that combines a matte natural finish and medium to full coverage. Comfortable and long-lasting, it helps to minimize the appearance of pores and

easily. The blades do not touch the skin, and the removal of short hairs leaves the face skin smooth and ready for make-up. 4. Fine Vine Retinol - It moisturizes, treats acne and softens wrinkles. Retinol is the most advanced anti-ageing skincare ingredient, so take advantage of this miraculous product. 5. Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Formula - Besides moisturizing, it provides vitamins and nutrients that promote younger looking and nourished skin. It deeply moisturizes the skin, helps to reduce marks and scars and prevents loss of elasticity. It also stimulates the production of collagen.

other imperfections and gives the skin a more flawless appearance. 9. Magic Retouch/ L’Oréal Paris Recommended for covering white hair roots. With a quick and easy application that will last until you next wash your hair. It is washed off easily with any shampoo and does not run or leave stains because of its quick drying formula. 10. Pó Compacto 3 em 1 Anna Pegova - Besides offering high sun protection, its functional formula will also treat the skin at the same time. It is long lasting and consistently masks skin imperfections. It reduces the shine of oily skin and leaves a matte finish with a soft and velvety appearance. It also protects against premature ageing. 67

Cultural

programe

Patricia Dantas Journalist

Cinema, Brazilian music and art. Unmissable events to enjoy in style in the last months of the year!

Courtauld Impressionists: From Manet to Cézanne For the first time since 1948, the National Gallery will exhibit important Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings from the Courtauld Gallery’s collection purchased in 1920 by Samuel Courtauld. These paintings will be shown alongside the gallery’s own collection and will trace the development of modern French paintings from the 1860s to the turn of the 20th century. It will include masterpieces by Daumier, Manet, Renoir, Cézanne, Seurat and Bonnard. The exhibition will run from September 17, 2018 to January 20, 2019. More information: https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/whats-on/exhibitions/courtauld-impressionists-from-manet-to-cézanne

BFI London Film Festival Want to take a selfie on the red carpet next to big Hollywood stars? So be sure to attend the 62nd edition of the BFI London Film Festival, which runs from 10 to 21 October. The international premiere of the film Widows, by acclaimed director Steve McQueen, will mark the official opening of this year’s festival at Cineworld in Leicester Square. Viola Davis, Liam Neeson, Colin Farrel, Michelle Rodriguez and Robert Duvall are part of the thriller’s cast. More information: https://whatson. bfi.org.uk/lff/ 68

CULTURe and travel

Zeca Pagodinho Show After the success of 2016, Zeca Pagodinho returns to London with another super show that will include some of his career’s favourite songs. In the repertoire, sambas like Judia de Mim, Coração em Desalinho, Deixa a Vida Me Levar, Verdade, Ogum and Ser Humano promise to enthral the audience. The performance takes place at the O2 Forum Kentish Town on October 14th. A great opportunity to catch up with some Brazilian popular culture! More information and tickets: seetickets.com / ticketmaster.co.uk

Christmas at Kew Anticipating Christmas, the Royal Botanic Gardens, better known as Kew Gardens, will be once more transformed into a series of art and sound installations. Illuminating its buildings and plants, the festive event Christmas at Kew will have, in its sixth edition, highlights like a laser garden in the middle of the forest, 300 bright origami boats floating on the lake, and a tunnel in the shape of a Cathedral of Light, 7 metres high and 100 metres long. The attraction will be open on specific nights between November 22, 2018 and January 5, 2019. More information: http://www.kew.org/christmas Photo credits: Courtauld Impressionists: From Manet to Cézanne :Edouard Manet Déjeuner sur l’herbe, circa 1863-8 © The Samuel Courtauld Trust, The Courtauld Gallery. London BFI London Film Festival : Liam Neeson and Viola Davis in a scene from Widows. Photo: Press Release. Zeca Pagodinho: The samba musician is one of the great icons of Brazilian music. Photo: Press Release. Christmas at Kew: Grand Finale at Palm House. Photo: Jeff Eden

Lino Villaventura

one of Brazil’s most celebrated fashion designers, celebrates the 40th anniversary of his career this year. A part of the São Paulo Fashion Week since its inception in July 1996, Lino infuses the catwalk with exuberance and magic. One of his best-known traits is his way of dyeing and transforming fabrics. He utilises unusual fabrics to create intriguing new textures and remarkable patchworks. His creations have a distinctive handmade quality. He leads a team of 50 professionals and has his own shops in São Paulo and Fortaleza but his creations can be found in many other Brazilian cities and also in France, Portugal, the United States, Spain, Russia, Saudi Arabia and Dubai.

fashion

Reginaldo Fonseca Fashion Consultant

Reginaldo Fonseca is a fashion consultant, writer, and founder of Cia Paulista de Moda, a company that is active in the Production and Management of Projects for the Fashion Industry and organizes events for shopping malls, textile manufacturers, and fashion brands. One of the most renowned professionals in consulting and production of events in Brazil, he has recently achieved a 30-year long presence in the fashion market. In his debut as a columnist for Adriana Chiari Magazine, he presents us with an exclusive interview with fashion designer Lino Villaventura. You are among the best Brazilian designers. Tell us a little about your journey and your success. It all started in a very informal way, in 1973, in Fortaleza. It was not a choice, it just happened. When I was dating Inez (his spouse and business partner since then), I made her a vest to give to her as a present. It was a success and ever since people have encouraged me to make clothes and that is how it all got started. I never had any training, nor did I learn from my mother or anyone else.

How do you see fashion in Brazil and in the world right now? Each place has its own identity, and nowadays, with instant communication, the internet and social networks, things are aired quickly and people notice the particularities of different regions. I also realize that, especially in Brazil, clothing and fashion are compromised. I believe the refinement aspect of it has been lost. There is a lot of vulgarity in the streets and public places. I do like sensuality but often what we see transcends into crass vulgarity. However, I believe that this banalization process is global, and is the end result of a worldwide socio-economic process, of the crises and political problems that are taking place now. This reflects directly on people’s behaviours, manners of dressing and expectations.

Photos: provided by Lino Villaventura

The 70s were a time when clothes were not simply something you wore but also a form of expression, of protesting and challenging paradigms- as they should rightly be. I think that was a very emblematic aspect of my work. Initially, I did bespoke tailoring and followed that with prêt-à-porter production and the opening of the Fortaleza shop. I took part in fashion shows in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. It was then that I set up a showroom in the latter, followed that with the opening of a shop and then started to export. We’ve had showrooms in London and Paris for seven years now, and more recently in Milan.

With regards to English fashion. What is its importance and how does it influence fashion elsewhere? Of all the major fashion centres in the world, like Paris, Milan, London and São Paulo, I believe that English fashion has always been very irreverent, creative and has always broken the rules. Haute couture designers who revolutionized French fashion, like John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, and Vivienne Westwood, brought in unique creations. I greatly admire Vivienne Westwood, who has always drawn from the rock scene and been a woman of great creativity and ahead of her time. But, among them all, I think McQueen is the best! I’ve held a show in London and I believe that it encourages us to be very creative in every job. I see the woman who wears a Lino Villaventura dress as sophisticated and intelligent and above all, demanding. How do you describe your clientele? What do they look for in your creations? My client has a personality. She knows who she is and what she wants and expresses herself through the way she dresses. She

wants something original that can reveal her personality. There’s no age limit for my clientele: it ranges from young girls to 90-year-old ladies. Dressing men and women of all ages makes me proud. These are people who recognize a good job and who have, besides refinement, a keen appreciation of the value of a well-crafted product. You have sold fashion to many places in the world. Tell us about that experience. In the show that I held in London, I produced made to order pieces. Later on, in Paris, we sold very well for several years. When it comes to exporting, we face a big problem: the cost of our products and the taxes we pay, because that makes the product much more expensive. If the brand does not have great international recognition, it will face many difficulties. That is why being able to offer a differentiated product is essential. This is what happened when I took part in a four-day fashion show in Osaka, Japan. All the great designers and main European brands were present. And we made a huge impact. 72

That’s how I started exporting to Japan and also to the United States. But things started to get complicated and then there was the crisis of 2010/11, and we ended up having to phase this project down a little. The United Arab Emirates and Russia have always been excellent customers. Europe is proving to be a bit more difficult. I have already exported to Italy, Spain, and Portugal, but there is a 20% tax imposed on products from outside the European Union. With the advent of fashion schools, new professionals appear every day. What would you say to these new talents? I experience this already, as I am part of the Brasil Fashion project from Senai CETIQT, alongside Alexandre Herchcovitch, Ronaldo Fraga, and Lenny Liemeyer. Together, we coach students trained at Senai’s fashion courses. They need to know what they want, to be able to make a difference and participate in the marketplace in a more competitive way. They need originality and to have something different to offer. When leaving college, future professionals need to be aware that the job of a stylist is not an easy one.

If they do not love it, or are unsure whether it’s what they want in their lives, it will be very difficult. It’s not that glamorous a world. If all they think is, “I will be a success and meet celebrities” ... it will probably not work! Be aware that there will be a lot of hard work, the moments of glory are few and there will be lots of hardships. But to those ready to face anything, because this is the most important thing to them, I say: “Go ahead!” I’ve been doing this for 40 years now, it’s hard work, but I love it. I feel fulfilled. 73

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foto: Natalya Cardoso

TS DIEN : E GR N

HOme AND DECORATION

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1. Place the fish in a large pan with the halved onion and cloves, lemon peel, and bay leaves. Pour in the milk and bring it to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for about 8 minutes. Remove the fish and let it cool. Strain the milk into a container, discarding all solids, and reserve. Break the fish into large pieces, discarding any bones. Place the pieces in a bowl along with the eggs and prawns, and season to taste.

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1 onion, cut in half and studded with 4 cloves, 750ml of milk, 2 bay leaves peel of 1 lemon, 450g of skinless cod fillets, 450g of smoked salmon fillets, 350g of prawns boiled and shelled, 3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped, 75g of butter, 75g of wheat flour, 200ml of cream pinch of grated nutmeg, 2 tablespoons of chopped dill, 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley, 4 sheets of puff pastry, 1 egg, whisked

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2. In a saucepan, melt the butter over a low heat. Whisk in the flour and cook for 1-2 minutes. Stir in the strained milk until the mixture begins to thicken. Add the cream and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Add the nutmeg and chopped herbs. Pour the mixture over the fish, eggs, and prawns and let it cool. 3. Preheat the oven to 180Â° C. Divide the mixture into four 500-ml pie dishes. Cut 1 cm wide strips from the edge of the pastry sheets and press individual sheets along the rim of each dish then brush with a little water. Place a sheet of pastry over each dish and pinch its edge over the rim to seal. Trim off any excess pastry. Make two small holes on top of the pie for the steam to escape. 4. Brush with the whisked egg and bake for 25 minutes or until the pastry turns golden.

DECORATION

AUTUMN

HOme AND DECORATION

As it gets increasingly dark outside in preparation for winter and the leaves of the trees begin to fall, we can make the inside of our houses lighter with the use of rich and bright colours. Tones of brown and orange, copper, ruby, and gold come to mind and can be easily incorporated into any dĂŠcor in curtains, cushions, throws and tablecloths.

Carolina Sandri Architect

1. Warm and textured fabrics If you put all the heavier rugs and draperies away before the summer, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s now time to bring them back. Luxurious warm and heavy fabrics, like velvet, fur, wool, and flannel, will add a feeling of comfort and create a very cosy atmosphere. 2. Do not forget the walls Framed pictures and paintings make a lot of difference to the decoration of our homes. Empty walls transmit the feeling that something is missing. Pictures beautify a room and reflect our taste and personality. If you like photography, enjoy the autumnal days out there and take pictures of seasonal scenes, then display them on your walls. The basic rule when hanging pictures is to position the frames at eye level. The pictures must be in harmony with the surroundings and be inproportion to the size of the wall. A large wall asks for large pictures, but a number of small framed pictures grouped together can also work very well. 3. Right bedding for the season Few things are nicer than a soft inviting bed after a long day. With the arrival of colder days, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to warm up your bed. Flannel is one of the best fabrics for autumn. Made of loose-spun cotton, it receives a special brushing to keep it soft. Besides flannel, you can also opt for textiles in wool or synthetic fibres. 4. Furniture in bright colours Be bold and confident and add brightly coloured key pieces to your design; dark emerald sofas, burnt orange chairs, and large-scale geometric ruby coloured prints. Antique bronze details in furniture are also very sophisticated and add elegance to the ambiance. 5. Finishing touches Candles are simple and highly appreciated decorative objects. In autumn choose candles scented with vanilla, spices, apple and cinnamon or any other scent that is evocative of the season. There are many ways to display candles in your decor; they can be placed in suspended cages, in lanterns of different sizes, candlesticks of various shapes, glass vases and candelabra. 6. Throws Throws on sofas as well as beds are a good way to embrace the season and add charm to the autumnal decoration. Nothing is better than having them at hand when you need them. They can also be stored in beautiful baskets placed around the house. 7. Cozy Corner One of the advantages of autumn is that the sun will continue to appear so we can continue to use balconies and patios. Creating an outside space for this time of year is very easy: simply place a sisal rug on the floor, throw pillows and throws on an armchair, light candles and lanterns for the evening and turn on the heater or light the fireplace.Fire pits are very popular and an easy-to-use option as they can be portable and come in many styles, from rustic to modern. They add charm and create a pleasant atmosphere, especially at night. 8. Accessories with texture Mix the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vivid colours with interesting textures in your accessories. The bubble-effect glass table lamp and the aged metal plate are perfect examples. The tip is to introduce textured layers throughout your design, especially in light bulbs and accessories. 77

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The styles of

FASHION Thaize de Oliveira Image Consultant

ashion exists to expand our possibilities. In fashion we seek items that help us vary, modernize, and personalize our looks and make us look more interesting. Romantic: Romantic and delicate, this style places subtle feminine touches at the forefront. We can pick and mix several elements currently in vogue, such as intricate lace (a work of art in itself) and delicate embroidery to create charming and interesting looks with a very modern twist.

CREATIVE

FASHION

One of my favourites, this style juggles colours, details, shapes and cuts. While some have a more delicate touch, others lean towards the dramatic. In that category we place socks with sandals ... there is a great variety of beautiful and colourful socks that allow us to combine colours and give wings to our creativity.

DRAMATIC

The style for those with lots of personality; it can express very well ‘who I am and what I like’, accentuating exaggerated details. The dramatic style does not simply follow fashion trends but adds to them with its strong and cheerful presence, like flared sleeves and embroidery.

SENSUAL

This style helps you to expresses sensuality and show its nuances in a discreet and charming way. We use transparency to create a charming and attractive look.

SPORTY

The word that defines this style is comfort. Forget gym clothes; we are talking about practicality and comfort but with a touch of good taste. In this style we include distressed jeans, which have been in vogue for some time now

It’s a style that does not follow the whims of fashion. It favours good quality items and durability. It does not exaggerate details and adds a natural seriousness to dressing. This season we can play with stud details on shoes, abandon the predictable and add a little modernity and lightness to the look.

ELEGANT

The elegant style, contrary to what many people think, goes beyond the way one dresses. It also has to do with one’s behaviour and manner of speaking, acting and walking. Elegant people do not follow any fashion and transmit seriousness and confidence in the way they dress. They normally wear good quality clothes, almost always in plain colours. When they opt for prints, these will be soft and discreet. In this example we opted for a handkerchief tied to the handle of the bag. Seriously charming! 81

Photo: Simone Belo | Model: Maria Claudia Ghellere Dal Forno

TRADITIONAL

“We are motivated by a great challenge: to include sustainability in every project; this is our way.”

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Founded in 2002 in Goiânia, NEWINC (Nature, Economy and Us) is a construction company that stands for transparency and ecological awareness. It was awarded the highest grade in the Santander Sustainable Building Program. “We are motivated by a great challenge: to include sustainability in every project; this is our way.” With developments in Goiás, Mato Grosso, Mato Grosso do Sul and São Paulo, the company has built thousands of square meters in over 15 years. Its projects include residential condominiums and commercial buildings. Customer satisfaction is deemed of paramount importance.

Because of its great success in the industry, valuable partnerships have been established with banks and investment funds which makes it easier for clients to secure quick and safe financing. Always transparent in its negotiations, the company has conquered the sympathy of investors. Its newest venture, Terra Office Jardim America, in Goiânia, has the lowest priced square meter on the market. The project offers commercial rooms of 22.86 to 49.23 m2 and corporate rooms of 288.78 to 370.60 m2, in a prized location with auditorium, cafés and all the facilities your company need. It is a great investment for those who live abroad and want to see their money growing in Brazil. The project is finished and can be purchased directly from the company and easily paid in instalments that fit any budget. The rooms can then be rented and turn the investment into immediate income.

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BODY AND SOUL

THE BODY AND

SELF-ESTEEM Daniele Tedesco Psychotherapist

he relationship that people have with their own bodies can be an important indicator of their self-esteem. Feelings like insecurity, dissatisfaction, fear and a tendency to compare themselves to others often permeate this relationship and may end up leading people to experience extreme behaviours and emotional and psychic overload in their search for a perfect image.

be a sign of low self-esteem. Low self-esteem often manifests itself as dissatisfaction with the body, but it may have as its root cause basic beliefs that other peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s opinions are important, and may lead to instances when one directs unreasonable criticism towards oneself, emotional dysfunction from possible traumas, bashfulness and difficulty with social interaction, among other causes.

Manifestations of this behaviour can be seen in phenomena such as miracle diets, excessive physical exercise (in frequency and intensity), eating disorders (such as anorexia and bulimia), anxiety and even depression. True care for oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own body is, above all, an act of love. Keep a healthy diet, exercise regularly, sleep well, avoid alcohol and drugs, and balance work and leisure; these are all good habits to cultivate.

The desire to feel loved and experience joy, happiness, and pleasure in life is a natural yearning, and indeed a right of every human being. It is a state that can be reclaimed into your lives. Devote yourselves to nurturing your qualities, strengths, talents, motivations and life goals.

People start to neglect their own health and self-esteem when they succumb to external demands and pressures and stop paying attention to and caring for themselves. This behaviour has direct effects on their bodies and manifests itself as tiredness, stress, bodily shape changes (obesity or weight loss), insomnia, loss of pleasure in daily activities, loss of libido, dissatisfaction with social and familial relationships, etc. If sensations like these have been a part of your life, maybe itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to ask yourself: Have I been out of touch with myself? Have I given up caring for myself? Have I been feeling sad, frustrated, or overwhelmed? Do I feel that my life is dull and purposeless? Affirmative answers to these questions can

Nurture your physical and emotional health, get involved in activities that bring you joy, spend time with people who encourage, support and bring out the best in you. At the same time, try to act likewise towards others around you. Remove from your life all things that may, in any way, be hindering your progress and impairing your ability to be happy and fulfil your aspirations. Let go of those imposed and idealised notions of beauty, success, and personal realisation, and seek instead your own motivations and convictions. Start today to think and act in accordance with the things that can improve your self-development and accept yourself as a healthy, beautiful and capable person. One with their own unique and irreplaceable qualities.

BEHAVIOR

Food!

>> What not to say >> â&#x20AC;&#x153;Everything, absolutely everything you say, and especially what you do, gets imprinted into their subconscious, and may cause them to repeat patterns of behaviour for the rest of their lives!â&#x20AC;?

Elaine Lopes Psychologist and Nutritionist

Parents, be careful with the way you talk to your children about food, their bodies and physical activities. I will explain: everything, absolutely everything you say, and especially what you do, gets imprinted into their subconscious, and may cause them to repeat patterns of behaviour for the rest of their lives!

Teach your children - and learn in the process - that some foods aid growth and development while others help them to learn and prevent them from getting ill. And some food, albeit delicious, has very little nutritional benefit. Do not ban foods: By banning any kind of food, you may be inadvertently creating a ‘secret eater’ or some sort of warped food associations. Allow your children to eat all kinds of food so long as it is done in a balanced and conscientious way. For instance, it is ok to eat processed foods occasionally, so long as it is made clear that these foods do not help towards healthy development.

For example, a mother who constantly hates her self-image for thinking that she is fat may attempt to spare her children from a similar fate through restrictive behaviour. With the best of intentions, she will constantly bring up the issue and mention the dangers of being overweight and warn her children against foods to avoid. This mother is not aware that by acting in this way she will instil in her children what she tries so hard to avoid: an aversion to their own bodies. When a child is taught that body shape is critical to their self value and happiness, and that eating certain forbidden foods is shameful, the development of body insecurity follows almost inevitably - regardless of the way their bodies actually look.

Your children will want to eat whenever they are hungry. Children, like adults, instinctively know when they are hungry or satiated; all they need to do is to listen to their own bodies. Do not force them to eat when they do not feel like it. This will help prevent the child from using food as an unhealthy way of dealing with emotions. Focus on what the body is capable of doing, not the way it looks: Show your children how important it is to have a healthy, fit body that is capable of running, jumping and turning. They will then perceive the body in terms of what it can do, rather than the way it looks, and understand the importance of eating properly to boost its energy.

Similarly, parents who use food as a way of cheering up a child or as a reward for good performance in school, tend to link those meanings to food. This child, when an adult, will most likely resort to food as a means of dealing with feelings of frustration or as a reward!

We know how much parental behaviour at home forms the basis for the emotional foundation of their children. However, we must be aware of other significant outside elements that influence our children’s self-image: the diet, beauty and plastic surgery industries are masters at creating insecurity in girls and women.

Body hatred is not about how one sees oneself, but the way one feels about oneself. Even having a perfectly normal body will not prevent some people from disliking it. This situation results from certain thought processes. Depending on the way children are brought up, that is the way they will respond in the future. Never talk about weight: Never mention your personal frustrations regarding your body weight and shape to your children. And, whenever possible, try to re-signify them. Children need to understand that a person’s weight, just like their height, hair, eye or skin colours are unrelated to their value. Never talk about banned or allowed foods: When talking about food, we must emphasize its nutritional values.

But if we, parents, do our part, we can help our children win the battle for their self-esteem. We need to help our children to love their bodies- instead of hating them. And in so doing, they will certainly find the balance they need and make healthy choices, since we are more likely to take care of what we love. Come with me and live light!

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FINANce

Benefits in England Luciana Oliveira Accountant

To begin with, it is important to note that benefits are public financial assistance funds for people and families on low income. The UK government introduced Universal Credit in 2013, and the plan is that most of the different benefits will be replaced by Universal Credit in order to standardize the process and centralize the analysis of the different benefits within a single category. Universal credit replaces the following benefits:

• Child Tax Credit • Housing Benefit • Income Support • Income-based Jobseeker’s Allowance • Income-related Employment and Support Allowance (ESA) • Working Tax credit Nowadays the immigration, taxation (HMRC), social (Job Centre Plus) and council systems share information, so all applications will be checked out in all these databases. This new benefit is not 88

available in all regions of the UK; check the link below to see if it is available in your area. https://www.citizensadvice. org.uk/benefits/universal-credit/before-you-apply/Check-if-youre-eligible-for-Universal-Credit/ The government will contact you when this benefit is available in your region. For now, the only thing you can do is to check if you have it in your area and whether you fit the profile:

Live in an area included in the program Responsible for fewer than 3 children Over 18 years of age (in some cases may be 16 or 17) Under 65 years of age You have less than £ 16,000 in savings Not studying full time If you are not a British citizen, your visa must not have a time limit or a stamp stating that you cannot apply for public funds (note that even if you have a resident visa, you may have this information on your visa). The right to other benefits related to physical disabilities and other medical limitations is not affected by universal credit. The ceilings of these benefits are: • Single person under 25 years old £251.77 • Single person over 25 years £317.82 • Couple, both under 25 years of age £395.20 (for the couple) • Couple, both over 25 years of age £498.89 (for the couple)

For people with children First child £277.08 (born before April 6, 2017) and £231.67 (born after April 6, 2017) Second child £231.67 per child. If the child is disabled £126.11 or £383.86 ** You can apply for funds to pay for a Childminder if you are working. To know exactly how much you can receive, use the free government calculator (https: www.gov.uk/benefits-calculators) Changes in the amount you earn affect your rights to Universal Credit. For every £1.00 of your salary, there is a reduction of 0.63p of your entitlement to assistance. That is, as you earn more, your benefit will decrease. There is no limit to the number of hours you can work to qualify for this benefit. After the government notification, the application is made online, and the payment day will always be the same. There are provisions in the law for cases of domestic violence, couples who

separate, and persons who, in addition to their own children, also have other dependent children. The British government has a table of its responsibilities as guardian of a child. For couples, only applies to one of the two persons. Self-employed and company directors are also entitled to apply for universal credit. If you are terminally ill and/or your doctor declares that you have less than 6 months left to live, you will be paid extra. Even with access to universal credit, if you face other financial difficulties, you can contact other government agencies, your council and other organizations that may assist you in other ways. This may not affect your universal credit but it is advisable to have transparency in all information provided. In order for you to be better oriented, you can apply for a Work Coach, a kind of tutor for your case, at the Jobcentre plus.

Age of youngest child

Your responsibilities

Under 1 year old

You should not work and should not look for work

1 year old

You do not need to look for work but should plan your return to work

2 years old

You do not need to look for work but you need to have activities that prepare you for your return to work; how to prepare your CV for instance

3 to 4 years old

Work a maximum of 16 hours per week or spend 16 hours looking for work

5 to12 years old

Work a maximum of 25 hours per week (or spend 25 hours looking for work)

13 years old

Work a maximum of 35 hours per week (or spend 35 hours looking for work)

You can also apply for a reduction of your Council Tax directly with the council. (https://www.gov.uk/apply-council-tax-reduction) If you are receiving universal credit, you may also qualify to receive other benefits: • BT Basic: reduced price phone line and internet package • Cold Weather Payment: Credit to pay for heating. • Disabled Facilities Grants: Assistance with installation of in-house facilities • Energy Company Obligation (ECO)

Affordable Warmth: Reduced price for electricity • Free early education for 2-year olds: Free childcare • Free school meals • Funeral Expenses Payment • Healthy Start vouchers (if pregnant or with child under 4): Gym voucher • Health costs, including prescriptions and dental treatment • Prison visiting costs: Assistance for prison visits • The costs of using courts or tribunals • Legal aid • SureStart Maternity Grant 89

• WaterSure to cap your bills if you have a water meter: reduced water costs In the UK there are professionals specializing in benefits advice. Many accountants and lawyers also offer this service. It is always a good idea to consult the regulatory bodies of each profession, check their insurance policy and ask specific questions, such as their registration number and regulatory association, and check online answers, before hiring any professional.

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BODY AND SOUL

STRATEGIC ASTROLOGY

Uranus in Taurus On May 15th 2018, after an 84-year gap, the planet Uranus started a seven-year cycle in Taurus. This will signal a time of deep, productive and effective awareness for everyone. As a species, we will be exposed to the dynamic, energetic and visionary nature of this planet that comes impregnated with a telluric, sensual and prosperous essence. Taurus will undoubtedly revolutionize the ways in which we use and manage our intelligence, ideas, knowledge, talents, feelings, potentials and resources to materialize our personal and collective relations with

Kinicha da Costa Astrologer planet Earth, with life itself and, indeed, with the universe. Uranus, with its powerful evolutionary charge, is implacable and determined to liberate all structures that may hinder consciousness, technology, and intelligence from manifesting collectively, indiscriminately, and freely. It will favour openness of minds, bodies, and hearts and encourage in us the awakening and sharing of our individual existences and tap into the power that sits at the core of the Tribe; the unique and eternal that represents the particles and the Totality. Therefore, we are going to be exposed to new rhythms because 90

Taureans are focused, constant and effective in materializing their objectives, and determined in their choices of direction taken at every step of their personal path. Since Uranus rules over Astrology, Advanced Sciences, and Vanguard Technologies, I suggest that each one of you consult your birth chart to comprehend all information about its essential nature and the specific areas of your life that will experience the effects of this transformative cycle, and then work consciously, with its potentialities in an effective and informed manner, towards personal excellence.

URANUS IN EACH

SIGN

ARIES Time to learn to concentrate mind, resources, and actions in order to materialize what you are proposing. You can be favoured by Uranus’ dynamic and innovative energy to change routines, improve the way you treat your physical body, and manage words and aggression. GEMINI Uranus’s exciting and innovative energy will project lots of inspiration, new possibilities, and opportunities that can broaden the personal spectrum of Geminians; although they know how to use chaos in their favour, their challenge will be to keep LEO focused and maintain interest in whatever The bright and intense presence typical of they choose. Leos will receive a boost to generate more freedom, wealth and autonomy from their ideas, intelligence, and personal power, even if they feel the need to invest much time and effort to work out their talents and personality. Virgo

TAURUS It will be a revolutionary period that will favour actions that allow the expansion and manifestation of personal talents, the start of new businesses and investments or the creation of alternatives. Love, sex, friendships, and relationships with groups will be factors of stimulation, challenge, and evolution.

CANCER This will be a cycle with an electrifying atmosphere for the romantic and sentimental nature of Cancerians; they will be full of expectations and creativity and open to experiencing life fully. New expectations may generate more satisfaction This will be a time for recognizing one’s own and emotional well-being. mechanisms, habits and tendencies in order to evaluate the results achieved and, from there, to plan new dynamics of life that can offer a real, safe and continuous possibility of progress, growth and personal evolution.

SCORPIO Even if at the beginning of this cycle a lot of rebellion, suspicion, and irritability is noticed as the more chaotic and unexpected patterns show their influence and possibilities, strategic and observant Scorpions will find great opportunities to materialize whatever they want.

AQUARIUS Strengthened by the dynamic and visionary energy of their regent planet, Uranus, Aquarians will benefit from the strong momentum of life and opportunities to gain and consolidate areas of privacy and personal freedom, although Taurus’ strong determination and concentration of power may prove to be a challenge.

SAGITTARIUS This cycle will revolutionize and energize the intelligence and perspective of Sagittarians towards new and more effective ways of investing in natural resources, technology, science, information, and consciousness. They will feel strongly inspired, hopeful and powerful to create an improved reality for all.

PISCES A wonderful moment of mental, spiritual and vibrational amplitude that will mark a particularly favourable time for issues related to material goods, money, and creativity; a powerful blend of intuition and practical intelligence that can build evolutionary bridges.

CAPRICORN The audacity of Uranus and the determination of Taurus will offer much intellectual stimulation to the undertaking of new ventures, projects, and challenges as well as organizing mental and material structures with calculated precision, thus generating opportunities for prosperity and growth. 91

LIBRA Important changes in the form of manifestation of personality under the influence of Taurus, which will offer greater firmness, balance, and clarity to decide and materialize what really matters at a personal level. Although very excitable and anxious, Librans will feel more alive than ever.

TAROT → ARCANO GUIDE TO THE PERIOD

RODA DA FORTUNA- Magnificent opportunity to let go of things that have already contributed their legacy and to open internal spaces and embrace the new and surprising moment of now, confident that in the road ahead you will be the master who decides every new step taken. EVENTS, OFFERS, OR ANNOUNCEMENTS LIVE VIDEO → Thursdays at 6 pm (London time). Direct from ADRIANA CHIARI MAGAZINE’s Facebook page. We will discuss the most relevant topics of each week with the purpose of offering resources so that everyone materializes their desired reality.

ENTREPRENEUR ‘For women, by women’

“A woman is complete when she is able to fulfill her own needs.” /lennemoghadari

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+ 44 (0) 7944 306239 Tina Welsh Handricraft ´

Tina Welsh

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Features & Benefits •Low 324mm front for maximum capacity •Electronic controller as standard •Low energy light and fans •Top trim colour Jura (cream) •Lowest energy in its class •ECA Approved •Energy Saving •12 Months Parts & Labour Warranty included

Mitsubishi Aircon

CALLUS FOR MORE INFORMATION 07834519641 ALL PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO VAT, DELIVERY IS UK MAINLAND ONLY.ALL DELIVERIES ARE FREE UNDER 100 MILE OF RADIUS.

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“Train up a child in the way he should go, and when he is old he will not depart from it” (Pv 22:6)

ceizs.londres BRENT CROSS (NW)

SEVEN SISTERS (N)

HERNE HILL (SE)

Hotel Holiday Inn Brent Cross Tilling Road London NW2 1LP

THE CONEL (COLLEGE) High Road London N15 4RU

Herne Hill Baptist Church Half Moon Lane London SE24 9HU

Sunday: 11:00h www.ceizs.co.uk

Brent Cross Tube Stn

Sunday: 15:00h

Seven Sisters Tube Stn

Sunday: 18:30h Herne Hill Rail Stn

INTERNATIONAL GOSPEL COMMUNITY CHURCH (CEIZS) has won the GUIA LONDRES AWARDS 2017 as Best Brazilian Social Assistance Institution in the UK.