WHERE San Diego Magazine Winter 2013

Page 21

LocaLLy

Grown

I

Many of the top toques in san Diego are natives … anD true local acts to follow. By SArAh DAouSt n a city of transplants known for its regular shuffling of chefs, some of San Diego’s top culinary talents actually grew up right here—and just so happen to helm some of the hottest restaurants in town right now. We present eight natives, each with a fierce loyalty to their hometown, strong opinions of San Diego’s culinary scene (some will surprise you!), and personal picks for local hangouts where they let someone else do the cooking during their rare downtime. The chef marks the spot.

Anthony SinSAy Inspired by his father’s

cooking while growing up in Nestor, Anthony Sinsay— executive chef at Del Mar darling Burlap—cooks from the heart. “My father passed away when I was 11, but prior to that he was always the cook in our house. When he died, I picked up the knife and never put it down.” Sinsay’s favorite dish on Burlap’s “Asian Cowboy” menu: the Sisig—a Filipino dish from his youth, made with crispy pork belly and shoulder. Personality in Three Words Passionate, humorous and [often] inappropriate. Most would describe me as unfiltered, obnoxious and likeable. Good-looking and charming never made the list. Favorite Spot to Dine My favorite restaurant in town is probably Carnitas’ Snack Shack. Hanis Cavin, the owner and chef, is so wholesome and soulful in his cooking, and the fact that it changes daily is what gets my juices flowing … so much so that I am actually getting married there in May with a “who's who” lineup of chefs helping with the reception. Inspiring Childhood Memory Waking up early in the morning to go fishing with my dad before school. It really taught me to respect the products I am so privileged to use. It reminded me that everything we consume was once alive, too, and that we have to respect the food that we eat because this product gave its life in order to sustain our own. All-time Favorite S.D. Destination Coronado. I feel a huge sense of nostalgia every time I make it through “the Strand” or cross over the Coronado Bridge. Unsung Heroes I don't think that our Filipino community gets the attention it deserves. We have great food,

a rich culture and deep history; people just don't know enough about it. I have a few Filipino dishes on the menu at Burlap and have tried to be a great advocate of Filipino culture and its cuisine. Local Admirations I admire Chef William Bradley from Addison. He, too, is homegrown and I see him occasionally at events. He is so refined, his food is precise, and his execution is flawless. He makes his art look effortless. I also love Hanis Cavin [at Carnitas' Snack Shack]; his food is soulful and represents him really well. He cooks without pretense.

Roseville Cozinha's Brussels sprouts (left); Michael Alves in the kitchen (above); and Todd Allison (below).

Burlap 12995 El Camino Real, Del Mar, 858.369.5700 Carnitas’ Snack Shack 2632 University Ave., North Park, 619.294.7675 Addison 5200 Grand Del Mar Way, San Diego, 858.314.1900

nAthAn Coulon Growing up in Point Loma in a family of chefs, Nathan Coulon was inspired by his mother, local dessert master Michele Coulon, and his grandfather, Don Coulon, chef and owner of the nowclosed Belgian Lion in Ocean Beach. “I grew up in a restaurant,” he explains. “In second grade, the teacher asked the class what they wanted to be when they grew up. When it was my turn I said, ‘Astronaut.’ The teacher’s response: ‘You can’t be an astronaut; you’re going to be a chef!’” She was right. Coulon oversees the cuisine at True Food Kitchen, Fashion Valley Mall’s wildly popular organic eatery. Menu Overview Created by Dr. Andrew Weil and Chef Michael Stebner, it's fresh, delicious and healthful. Favorite Spots to Dine I like Izakaya Masa in Mission WINTER 2013 WHERE SAN DIEGO 19

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