WWB 267 by MichaelPodger

WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co AUGUST 2017 / ISSUE 267 / £6.95

ULTIMATE GLAMOUR AHEAD OF THE GAME Superdry co-founder James Holder shares the concept behind the new SuperDesignLab SHADES OF INDIGO How Saltspin aims to take on the luxury denim sector S/S 18 AT MODA Our comprehensive guide to this season’s edition

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60/ Q & A : E M I L Y G O R D O N SMITH Stylus’s head of fashion gives an insight into trend forecasting and the key elements influencing retail

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GLAMOUR SIRENS

WWB shoots the most desirable evening and occasionwear styles for s/s 18

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DRESS CODE

What evening and occasionwear brands have in store for s/s 18

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TOP DRAWER PREVIEW

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RETAIL FORUM

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ETAIL CLINIC

Expert e-commerce advice

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THE LAST WORD

With Meg Cope, founder of Zaccys

EDITOR’S COMMENT

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TALKING POINT

Your views on the issues shaping the industry

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With James Holder, co-founder of Superdry

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DENIM DELUXE

Introducing new British luxury jeans label Saltspin

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STYLE FILE

37/ T H E E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O MODA Everything you need to know about this month’s show

FRONT COVER: SONIA PENA , 0034 952 240368

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DRAPERS INDEPENDENTS AWARDS WINNER 2013 & 2014

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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com

Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths

Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@ite-exhibitions.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

WWB is published 6 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2017 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

According to the latest forecasts, clothing and footwear are set to account for 42 per cent of all smartphone spend by 2020, with both categories already taking the lead in purchases via smartphones. Whilst the fact that these two categories dominate online sales didn’t surprise me at all, I was a little astonished that it is set to grow to such a high percentage. Out of all the things that people buy online these days, for clothing and footwear to almost take up half of this spend is a significant number indeed, one which just solidifies the irreversible growth of the online sector and its importance to our industry. Smartphones are increasingly overtaking spend via tablets and desktops, and are predicted to account for 51.5 per cent of the mobile and tablet market in the UK by next year. In fact, young fashion pureplayers such as Asos and Boohoo are already experiencing high penetration from smartphones at around 70 per cent of all their traffic. And with technology advancing, screens and mobile sizes getting bigger, better and more user-friendly, as well as ubiquitous WiFi, it’s logical that this trend will continue. Stores with an existing online offer will have to review their set-ups to stay in the game, with mobile responsiveness clearly top of the priority list if they don’t want to miss out on potential sales. As with much in our fast-paced world, shoppers won’t hang around websites which don’t respond to the device they are on; they will simply

move on to the store and site that does. Promotional activities will also have to be geared towards websites and mobile apps to ensure engagement and aid conversion rates. Of course I’m not saying that every indie needs a mobile-responsive e-commerce platform to survive. I know a lot of super successful stores who have managed to thrive without an online arm – and good for them, too! They are luring their customers into their bricks and mortar stores with competence, service and face to face engagement, and this will always remain at the heart of good retail. But my guess would be that those stores are attracting a very different target group to the millennials that have grown up techsavvy and connected like no generation before. And if millennials are your target audience, then making the online shopping experience as easy, user-friendly and exciting as possible will be crucial in the future. Talking of the future, in this issue we speak to Emily Gordon-Smith, head of fashion at trends agency Stylus. She shares some of the consumer behaviours and lifestyle changes that are set to influence and impact on the retail sector over the coming seasons. It’s a fascinating read and you can catch more from Stylus at Moda this month, with an unmissable presentation on the big issues affecting business for retailers, brands and manufacturers and the key opportunities for growth. See you there!

WWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group PLC company

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO OR EMAIL ISABELLA@RAS-PUBLISHING.CO.UK FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @WWBMAGAZINE, FACEBOOK WWB MAGAZINE AND PINTEREST WWBMAGAZINE

Spring/Summer 2018 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA THAT’S ME BY JAGRO MOLLY JO FEMME —

ALL GODSKE BRANDS SHOWING AT THE FOLLOWING VENUES Moda UK NEC Birmingham – Hall 20 stand U41 and U51 from 6th to 8th August 2017 Ciff Copenhagen Bella Centre – B3 – 241 from 9th to 12th August 2017 Dublin Showroom weekend from 13th to 15th August 2017

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: Great Titchfield House, 14/18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD. Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM 1: Godske Group Ireland, Niall Scanlan Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24. Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

Live your dreams! Special edition!

Comfort Stretch Tencel Satin Cotton

Comfort Stretch Denim

Metallic Prints

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BREXIT HAS NEGATIVELY IMPACTED BUSINESS SAY BRITISH SMES

CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR LEAD THE WAY IN SMARTPHONE SPEND

Sixty-two per cent of British SMEs voted to remain in the EU during last year’s referendum, a recent survey by small business lender Liberis has revealed. The survey asked over 500 UK small business owners how they voted in the 2016 EU Referendum and what effects Brexit has already had on their business. Since negotiations to leave the European Union began, 41 per cent of those surveyed said that they have felt a negative impact due to Brexit. Product sourcing and services have been hit the hardest with 27 per cent of businesses citing these areas as a struggle since the leave vote. According to the survey, the highest earning businesses with a turnover of over £1m a year voted to leave the EU more than any other, at 30 per cent. At the opposite end of the spectrum, 60 per cent of micro businesses, with a turnover of up to £50,000, voted to remain. Forty-one per cent of those polled said that the triggering of Article 50 has had a ‘negative effect’ on their business. However, 54 per cent revealed they haven’t felt any positive or negative effects on their business. When asked which areas of their businesses have been negatively affected by the decision to leave, 27 per cent of SMEs surveyed said that product and service sourcing has suffered, with bottom line also being negatively affected by the referendum results at 24 per cent. When asked which areas of their business have been positively affected by Brexit, including sales or leads, business relationships, bottom line, business development, product or service sourcing and hiring staff, 76 per cent said ‘none of the above’ have been positively affected, with only 12 per cent saying sales and leads have benefited.

Spend via smartphones will outperform spend via tablets, accounting for 51.5 per cent of the UK mobile and tablet market in 2018, according to research and consulting firm GlobalData. Leading the way are clothing and footwear categories, set to account for 42 per cent of all smartphone spend in 2020. The company’s latest report reveals that sales of tablet devices are declining as consumers choose to spend more time on smartphones. Consequently, spend via these devices is set to grow 112 per cent in the next five years. Key sectors aiding market acceleration via smartphone are clothing and footwear, which has the highest proportion of sales on smartphone, and food and grocery, expected to be the fastest growing sector in terms of sales via smartphone to 2022. GlobalData’s report states that shopper behaviour has shifted over the last five years, with smartphones now relied on as the go-to information source for everything from shopping to banking to checking train schedules. This seismic change in habits has been supported by significant technology developments such as improved connectivity and larger screen sizes, and has led retail revenue via smartphone to increase sharply. By 2022 spend via smartphone is forecast to account for 23.8 per cent of all online expenditure, up from 15.1 per cent in 2017. In order for retailers to stay ahead in this market, they should encourage downloads of their mobile apps by adding features to aid conversion and improving functionality.

FOR DAILY NEWS, ANALYSIS AND UPDATES, VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO

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NEWS IN BRIEF

NEW BRANDS FOR CAROL C COLLECTIONS

THOUGHT LIFTS MARGINS FOR RETAILERS

Fashion distribution agency Carol C Collections has expanded its portfolio with the addition of a further two labels, Jasi & Co and Md’M. Jasi & Co enters the UK from Australia, offering contemporary summer separates aimed at the 35+ woman. A fusion of East and West, the collection uses fine silks and fabrics sourced throughout Asia, blended with a distinct Australian style, resulting in a stylish and sophisticated look. Floral prints in an array of colours summarise the collection. Md’M, meanwhile, hails from Madrid, Spain and offers contemporary boho chic inspired by Latin culture. Colourful prints and trend-led garments make up the range, with fabrics including cottons, viscose, Tencel and many other soft materials. Both collections will be launched for s/s 18.

British sustainable clothing brand Thought has launched its s/s 18 selling season with a new pricing structure as part of a series of initiatives aimed at helping stockists maximise sales. The company, which saw record pre-orders for its a/w 17 collection, has re-evaluated its pricing, reducing wholesale prices and sacrificing some wholesale margin as well as more streamlined buying, to offer an average of 2.6 mark up across the collection. “We felt the new pricing structure would be an especially strong message based on the current economic climate and to further establish the great relationships we have with our existing retail customers – as well as broadening our appeal to the wider market,” explains founder John Snare. “Our wholesale customers will always be our number one priority and therefore we will always look for ways to ensure that our partnerships are working to the best possible level.”

ONLINE UPGRADES PAY OFF FOR GINO CERRUTI Evening and occasionwear specialist Gino Cerruti is reporting a strong uptake of its online ordering system, which allows retailers to access a live inventory of 20,000 dresses in stock in the company’s warehouse in London 24/7. The brand launched the system seven years ago but has seen a big rise in retailers utilising the system following further upgrades and investment. Through its dedicated retailer website at www.wholesalegown.com and now also at www.ginocerruti. com, vendors are able to order items that are in stock, as well as garments which are in production through its live manufacturing system (ERP). Orders are processed within five minutes of being placed and are packed for shipping for next day delivery. The site also offers a dedicated telephone customer support team as well as a live chat option in nine European languages.

ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE FUELS RETAIL INNOVATION Artificial Intelligence (AI) is powering innovation in retail, Retail Insider’s Digital Retail Innovations Report 2017 unveils. The study recognises the top 50 retail technology initiatives of the last year, with innovations around AI in customer communication and supply chain operations claiming numerous spots on the list. For the second consecutive year Amazon was crowned the UK’s number one digital innovator, taking all three of the top spots. Amazon Echo topped the list with its new and improved features. Amazon Go, which uses NFC sensors to monitor grocery items in store, ranked second, with Amazon Logistics listed third for its robot-filled warehouses and experimentation with drone delivery. HOUSE OF FRASER APPOINTS NEW GROUP CHIEF PEOPLE OFFICER House of Fraser has appointed Michelle Maynard as chief people officer. Maynard is an accomplished HR director, bringing over 25 years’ experience at the likes of British Airways, Coca-Cola, the AA and Thomas Cook Group. She was director of talent and organisational development at Aviva and most recently chief people officer for Aviva France. JOE BROWNS PLANS FIRST BRICKS AND MORTAR STORE Mail-order and online retailer Joe Browns is set to make its debut into bricks and mortar retail with a store scheduled to open in Sheffield’s Meadowhall at the end of the year as part of the shopping centre’s regeneration. The brand has appointed top London agency Dalziel and Pow to create the store. The decision to move to bricks and clicks comes on the back of Joe Browns reporting a rise of more than 30 per cent in direct sales in the last two years.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

WACOAL EUROPE’S FRESH BRAND PORTFOLIO

MGC CONSULTANCY ADDS NEW LABELS

Wacoal Europe, the parent company behind lingerie and swimwear brands Wacoal, Fantasie, Freya, Elomi, b.tempt’d and Goddess, has unveiled a refreshed brand portfolio with a clearer direction and new visual identities for its key brands which it believes will help achieve a stronger position in the market. For s/s 18, the company is supporting its brands Freya, Wacoal and Elomi with a series of communication campaigns that are set to grow the respective audiences further and drive brand recognition as well as footfall and traffic to its customer base. “Relooking at our portfolio has been an important step for the business. Many of the Wacoal Europe brands are known in the lingerie market for leading product design and fit, but we wanted to create a much clearer identity for them to really push them forward and drive strong recognition,” says Laura Simon, brand director.

Fashion agency MGC Consultancy has added three new labels to its roster of brands, which currently includes Verpass and Yoek. New brands joining the portfolio for s/s 18 are UK independent label Sophistic8 and Spanish brands Quisquillas and K-Kou. Sophistic8 offers plus size evening and occasionwear available in size 10 to 32. Trend-led designs that are colourful and flattering sum up the look of the range. Quisquillas, meanwhile, specialises in smart dresses, tops and fine knitwear. Limited edition occasion and smart daywear comes from fellow Spanish label K-Kou, which creates exclusive clothes with unique patterns. The careful selection of materials and attention to detail underpin trend-led ranges that have broad appeal. All collections can be viewed at the agency’s showroom at the Hallam Conference Centre in London.

STRONG SCOOP KICKS OFF UK SHOWS Boutique trade fair Scoop delivered another strong edition for s/s 18, with exhibitors praising the attendance of high-calibre independents as well as store buyers from the UK and overseas, while visitors applauded the show for its curated and exclusive selection of established and niche designer labels. Buyers from Hoopers, La Rinascente, Galeries Lafayette, Harvey Nichols, Fenwick, Yoox, Net-a-porter, Donna Ida, The Mercantile, Psyche, Henrik Vibskov and Fortnum & Mason were all in attendance. “We’ve had a really busy show, and have seen the majority of the store and boutique buyers on our wishlist. The show works really well for us, as it allows us to show our repositioned brand to key buyers and the wider industry,” says Valerie Lavocat, womenswear international sales director for Cacharel.

MARC CAIN SET TO LAUNCH FRAGRANCE Marc Cain is set to launch its first fragrance line, Marc Cain Mysteriously. Three fragrances are hitting the market in October, created by perfumers Corinne Cachen, Maarten Schoute and Michel Almairac. The scents are presented in sleek, minimalistic bottles, available in either 40ml or 80ml volumes. The sophisticated, pastel-hued bottles come in a high-quality box, with the typical Marc Cain signet, the leopard head, adorning the front of the packaging. Each fragrance is complemented by a matching skincare series, consisting of a shower gel, a body lotion and a roll-on deodorant. JOULES UPGRADES NUMBER OF RETAIL STORES Lifestyle brand Joules has relocated and upgraded a number of its retail stores. The brand has relocated to bigger premises in Mumbles, Monmouth and Nottingham, all of which benefit from larger spaces and more central and convenient locations. Joules also opened a new store in Ambleside, continuing its retail expansion. MICHAEL ROUTLEDGE JOINS MILLENNIAL BRANDS Michael Routledge has been appointed general manager of Millennial Brands UK and Europe. His appointment follows the resignation of current European managing director, Derek Bowen, who will be pursuing new opportunities in the outdoors market. Routledge’s role will encompass full responsibility for the leadership and development of all Millennial’s footwear brands in the UK and Europe including Rocket Dog, Kelsi Dagger and Pour La Victoire. Millennial Brands has a number of short and medium term strategic brand growth objectives across Europe, including driving revenue growth through more diverse wholesale channels, and maximising existing success with the expanding direct to consumer channel. In his new role, Routledge will spearhead this activity.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

COURIER AND EXPRESS DELIVERY’S £1BN SURGE

WORLD’S FIRST ‘SMART STREET’ NOW IN LONDON

Latest research from market analyst Mintel reveals that the courier and express delivery market witnessed a steep £1bn increase in sales in 2016, with the UK spending as much as £10.1bn on these services. Overall, 2.8bn packages and parcels were delivered in 2016, with the number growing by 65 per cent from 1.7bn in 2012. And while the number of items delivered has soared, this has driven a boom in the value of the courier and express delivery market, increasing by 63 per cent from £6.2bn in 2012 to £10.1bn in 2016. Furthermore, while value sales grew by 11 per cent in the last year alone, in 2017 sales are expected to reach £10.8bn, forecast to reach £13.2bn in 2021, with volumes expected to increase by 33 per cent to reach 4bn packages in the same time period. British online retail sales are expected to grow by 55.3 per cent over this same five-year period to reach £81.94bn.

London has unveiled the world’s first ever ‘Smart Street’, offering a glimpse into the future of the high street and what shoppers across the globe could experience in years to come. Bird Street, just off Selfridges on Oxford Street, has been transformed into a traffic free, innovative and experiential outdoor retail and leisure space. Pop up shops featuring retail, fashion and lifestyle brands, complete with retail technology including mobile payment technology and incentivised selfie mirrors form part of the scheme, which runs until December. Bird Street has also partnered with a host of tech visionaries to showcase the sustainability potential of future high streets. Shoppers can also visit the CleanAir Bench, available to sit and relax in the space of fresh, filtered air accompanied by real-time air quality monitoring technology displayed on the bench.

LOVE BRANDS EXPANDS INTO MENSWEAR London fashion distribution agency Love Brands is launching into menswear for s/s 18 with the arrival of Danish lifestyle brand Signal. The company has appointed Ward Mann as head of menswear, who will oversee the launch and growth of the label. It is the first foray into menswear for the agency, which represents a raft of womenswear brands such as Anonyme, NÜ Denmark, Skunkfunk and more, with more menswear labels to be added amidst market forecasts that growth in the men’s sector is set to outperform womenswear over the next five years. To accommodate its new division, the agency is taking on additional showroom space and personnel. Mann joins the company with 25 years of experience in the menswear industry, having worked for labels such as Farah and Lee as well as Remus Uomo and Eden Park.

& OTHER STORIES SET TO OPEN STORE IN KING’S CROSS Swedish fashion group & Other Stories, which is owned by the H&M Group, is set to open a new UK store in London’s King’s Cross. Set to launch this autumn, the store will be located at the corner of King’s Boulevard and Goods Way, a new and growing shopping area. The one-floor store of approximately 550 sq m will include a selection of affordably priced accessories, stationery, bags, jewellery, beauty products, shoes and ready-to-wear collections, all designed in ateliers in Paris, Stockholm and Los Angeles. An additional London store opening is also scheduled for autumn, located in Westfield Stratford City on 133-134 Montfichet Road. UK CONSUMERS WILL ERASE PERSONAL DATA FROM RETAILERS Nearly half (48 per cent) of UK adults plan to activate new rights over their personal data, according to a poll of 2,000 people commissioned by software solutions company SAS. The survey explored the nation’s sentiment towards the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR), which comes into force on 25 May 2018 and gives consumers new rights over how their personal data is handled and retained by organisations, including the right to request erasure of data. Fifteen per cent of adults polled expressed their intention to activate their new rights in the same month that the legislation comes into force. SALES SOAR AT ASOS Sales at online fashion giant Asos rose to £660.1m for the four months to 30 June, driven by international sales growth of 44 per cent to £425.5m and 16 per cent in the UK to £234.6. The company reports continued strong customer engagement, with active customers up by 25 per cent, average basket value growth of 3 per cent and average order frequency up by 6 percent. Asos shipped a total of 16.9m orders, a 28 per cent jump year-on-year.

MODA UK 6-8 AUGUST STAND W49

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BORN IN THE USA Frieda&Freddies was an absolute cult brand in the 70’s and 80’s. Originating in New York and Miami, countless Hollywood stars, such as Jackie O and Steve McQueen wore Frieda&Freddies and the cast of Miami Vice were all clothed in Frieda couture. The label was personified by two little Chihuahuas called Frieda & Freddie.

One only has to look around the European headquarters of this kitsch heritage brand to recognise the decadent history of Frieda&Freddies and the creative forces in place that are set to elevate this quirky, hip, yet hugely commercial brand into a ‘must have’ brand in the UK and Ireland. Having started with top commercial agents, F.O.S Fashion Marketing, from their new location in the King’s Road, for A/W 17, Chris Foster-Orr, owner of F.O.S tells WWB: ‘There was an extraordinary buzz around Frieda&Freddies in the showroom for A/W 17 and we opened a staggering number of accounts, nearly 40 actually. In this day and age that is unheard of and reflects purely on the product on offer. It is a really fun collection with a huge personality jumping out at you. The attention to detail is fantastic and it has such commerciality but crucially it looks so new and current. It really is a breath of fresh air and although the collection is outerwear led the S/S 18 collection is perfect for this season and the best I’ve seen from them actually’. Foster-Orr continues: Appealing to the mainstream and ‘bridge’ market sectors and to the 35+ woman we opened with the likes of Jarrolds in Norwich, Izzi of Baslow, Landmark in Marlow, Fifth Avenue in Ilkley and Katriona in Banbridge to name but a few.....I can’t name everyone! We fully expect the account base to grow substantially for S/S 18 and already there is a huge demand to stock this brand. It is very rare for a brand to fall in your lap that ticks all the boxes, but that’s exactly what Frieda&Freddies does! Selling dates: 12th July – 31st August Contact details: Chris Foster-Orr, Christina Leventis-Batista, Aimee Brown, Karen Davies F.O.S Fashion Marketing, 120 King’s Rd, London SW3 4TR Tel: 020 7584 4159 E: info@fosfashion.co.uk www.fosfashion.co.uk Nearest Tube: Sloane Square

Spring/Summer 2018 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA THAT’S ME BY JAGRO MOLLY JO FEMME — ALL GODSKE BRANDS SHOWING AT THE FOLLOWING VENUES Moda UK NEC Birmingham – Hall 20 stand U41 and U51 from 6th to 8th August 2017 Ciff Copenhagen Bella Centre – B3 – 241 from 9th to 12th August 2017 Dublin Showroom weekend from 13th to 15th August 2017

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Talking Point

Your views on the issues shaping the industry The business of buying

TRACIE BEARDSLEY is co-owner of the multi-award winning Fab Frocks in Westbourne near Bournemouth. It’s that time again. Along with thousands of other fashion followers, I will make my Sunday pilgrimage, clutching that much needed early cup of caffeine, to Birmingham for the mecca that is Moda. It always stuns me that within just a few days the fate of fashion for the rest of the nation is decided upon by those of us buying at Moda. What we choose they will wear. They will miss out

“Buy well; choose well; make it last”

MELISSA WHEELER is a freelance fashion writer and industry commentator. There was a time when only the premium brands were singing to the ethical tune, but now we’re all humming along and conscious clothing has become very catchy. Personally, I’m really excited by this and proud of us as consumers. I can’t help wondering whether Pantone’s colour for 2018 might just be a shade of green. It first dawned on me while reading the Times Style supplement and a style edit featuring Amanda Wakeley, who pointed out that “a fabulous beautifully made jacket is not going to

on those gorgeous items we reluctantly discard because they are simply not commercial enough – either in style or price point. They will never know that the outfit we selected to sell in blue could have come in eight other colours. I guess what you don’t know doesn’t hurt you! I’m always fascinated watching other retailers do their buying. Over a decade ago when I started Fab Frocks, buying was a huge learning curve and one I am still on. Back in those days, I thought Sarah Pacini was a posh bowl of pasta; that is what my fashion knowledge amounted to. I just stood nervously, like a new kid in a new school, watching other buyers placing their rings on stock and taking my lead from them. I knew nothing about minimums or exclusivity rights. My brain went into meltdown after I selected my first collection and was politely asked what sizes I wanted them in and then what colours. There was so much to think about and I had no idea if I was getting it right. I remember asking a very competent boutique owner who was busy writing an order for thousands of pounds while scarcely looking up how she knew what to choose and in what size. “I’ve been doing this 30 years,” she told me, “and

there is no crystal ball. You have to know your customer and listen to your instinct too.” I’ve never forgotten that advice. For my occasionwear boutique, buying for spring/ summer is my key season. I cannot afford to get it wrong and the pressure is on. Despite 16 years of experience now under my belt, that elusive crystal ball still escapes me but I thankfully do have better judgement and the knowledge of a customer base to bring to the buying decisions. Of course, a commercial eye is key but you do have to take some risks. If you don’t, you can end up a carbon copy of other boutiques and lose your individuality. For this summer season, Veni Infantino convinced me to buy a dress and frock coat I had my doubts about. It sold out within a month of it being in our shop and we repeated on it with 10 more customers waiting for it. So I admit I can be wrong. Feathers just aren’t my thing and I wrongly thought they were not my customers’ either. A gorgeous special occasion dress by Carla Ruiz which has feather cuffs and hemline sold out within just a few weeks. I am still learning. That is what I love about working in the fashion industry – it never stops surprising me, feathers and all!

disappear out of fashion next year”. I then began digging deeper into the subject partly from an industry perspective and partly for a friend’s startup venture. It turns out that fashion is now the fastest growing conscious consumer sector. Yes, the irony being that our demand for instant gratification is being redirected from Fast Fashion to Slow Fashion. Buyers considering key trends for s/s 18 may well be surprised by what I then read: “Sustainability or responsible innovation is by far the biggest trend in the industry right now,” said Eva Kruse, chief executive of Global Fashion Agenda, at their recent summit. That this shift in gear is being driven by consumers is in no doubt and the actions of big high street retailers to ‘go green’ are nothing but a savvy business move: give the customers what they want. I’ve spoken to many people who have expressed their frustration at a dearth of fashionable, contemporary collections which are simultaneously ethically produced. They don’t want sack cloth and ashes, to be blunt. It was Dame Vivienne Westwood who first advocated that we “Buy well, choose well; make it last”, but the militant ethical activism of figures such as she and Zandra Rhodes has now filtered

down to the millennials, or ‘pro-sumers’. Fashion has always had activism in its DNA, so it was only a matter of time before conscious consumerism became fashionable and gained kudos. That London ethical based brand Gandys, founded by the Forkan brothers under their ‘Orphans for Orphans’ initiative with flip-flops, recently launched its first womenswear collection, is a case in point. Add to that Braintree Clothing’s rebrand to Thought Clothing, while repositioning to compete in the contemporary sector; the launch of H&M’s Conscious Collection and ASOS’s Eco Edit, plus similar shifts across the industry, and it’s clear there’s business to be done in ‘being good’. In womenswear, brands such as Skunkfunk are catering to this demand from multi-brand independent retailers. Shoppers want to be ‘good’ and buying a brand with a conscience ticks that box, besides having a new found street credibility. Conscious consumers no longer need to own a Prius or a Canada Goose Parka. Saving up for a piece from, say, Stella McCartney, however beautiful and ethically-made, is beyond the budgets of most people, which is why the democratisation of ethical fashion is such a fabulous thing.

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Now worth a staggering £1.255bn, SuperGroup Plc, the company behind Superdry, likes to stay ahead of the game. As it launches Superdry Sport as a brand in its own right, with womenswear a key focal point, Tom Bottomley gets the plan from James Holder, company co-founder and the creative force behind the new SuperDesignLab. Tom Bottomley: What’s new within the company? James Holder: We’ve set up what we’ve called the SuperDesignLab, a pure innovation centre. Of course, Superdry is still the main business and the mainline collection and is an incredibly successful business model, which is doing outstanding figures, but it’s a big machine that needs time to operate. If you’ve got 6,000 different products coming out a year, and you’ve got to make 50 samples of each, our sampling runs are bigger than some brands’ production runs. To facilitate that, you need to have a very large, efficient machine, which has all the necessary processes involved. TB: Is there a downside to that? JH: There is no downside, only the fact that that model needs to be run in a classic design, sampling and sales cycle, like any global brand working within the traditional wholesale model. What we’re now doing with the SuperDesignLab is fast and innovative and, because we don’t have to make so many samples, we can do the really freaky stuff that may be too extreme for mainline. The mainline has to satisfy the global demand for strong commercial product and must meet the needs of the international customers. But we can really push the boundaries with this, very similar to how we did when we first started Superdry when our designs were considered to be pioneering and unique. With SuperDesignLab we can do more groundbreaking product, and give a vision of the future of the brand. That’s important for the longevity of Superdry.

JAMES HOLDER SUPERDRY CO-FOUNDER AND HEAD OF SUPERDESIGNLAB

TB: What has the reaction from buyers been like? JH: So far, the response to Superdry Sport has been unbelievable. We can be super extreme with the designs, especially with colours and branding. At a time when other labels are paring their branding back, the Superdry Sport line has allowed us to really go full-on with what Superdry is amazing at – colours, fabrics and insane levels of detailing. There are graphics splattered everywhere, but done in a tasteful way. It’s a unique sub-brand for which we have great expectations. TB: Is Superdry Sport entirely new? JH: It was launched for s/s 16 as a capsule collection within the

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mainline women’s collection, which followed with a men’s capsule collection a season later, and that’s been satisfying our traditional wholesale partners. But the Superdry Sport that has come out of the SuperDesignLab now sits completely on its own, and is a combination of the fantastic mainline Superdry Sport products blended with the SuperDesignLab styles, so that we can offer a 360-degree product offering with a diversity that has not been seen before in this segment. There are 420 different products across apparel and footwear split equally between genders. TB: Who will it appeal to? JH: It will reach out to new customers, as well as existing fans of the Superdry brand, and price points remain in line with the main collection. You can definitely see the Superdry DNA running through it, but it’s a more extreme version of it. We really believe we’re going to have amazing traction with the women’s side of the offer. Design-wise there’s so much scope to really push the boundaries with women’s. Also, on a more technical level, it is acutely in tune with what the female customers want from true sportswear. TB: Is the intention to also have Superdry Sport standalone stores in the UK? JH: In our larger grade-A Superdry stores in the UK, such as London’s Regent Street shop, Manchester, Liverpool and Dublin, there will initially be Superdry Sport shop-in-shops from this autumn/winter. You will walk in to a Superdry store and experience the usual feel, but then you will get to discover the high impact bright neon Sport section. Alongside that, we are also launching it as shop-in-shops with some UK retail partners, as well as across Europe, the Far East and the USA with more details to follow on that once each deal is finalised. There are plans to launch Superdry Sport standalone stores in the UK and Julian Dunkerton, my fellow Superdry founding partner, will be selecting the perfect locations. Julian and I are working extremely closely together, probably closer than ever, now that the SuperDesignLab has been created and he has been freed up to concentrate on new retail and new product. In a way, this process has reunited and reignited us, and made us more focused than ever on the brand and its long-term relevance and success. TB: Why has Grenoble in France been chosen to open the first Superdry Sport franchise shop this October? JH: We have a fantastic partner in France who runs a chain of successful Superdry stores that encapsulate the brand perfectly. He has positioned Superdry in a strong, aspirational space within France and is the ideal partner for the first international Superdry Sport store launch location. TB: Brand-wise, who is the competition for this new sport offer? JH: It’s anyone from volume brands such as Nike and Adidas Originals, to more exclusive labels such as Sweaty Betty and Lululemon, but we’re so much more aggressively priced. We’re able to take absolutely banging classics from the Superdry portfolio, and give them the Sport design treatment.

For example, there’s the ‘Windsprinter’ – the Sports version of the windcheater which we think is going to be highly popular worldwide. There are technical elements in the line too, with moisture wicking and anti-bacterial capabilities built in to certain fabrics. I’d say 50 per cent of the line has some sort of technical element to it, from the most extreme compression gear down to more classic gym wear. But we’re not stupid, we know we are going to sell a lot of hoodies and jackets, and a lot of footwear. It’s the perfect balance. What you’ve got, when you look at the established players in the sports market, they do sportswear, whereas fashion people do fashion clothing. We’re smashing the two together for a completely new and unique offering, while capturing the whole sportswear trend that has emerged so strongly. It’s fitness meets fashion. TB: What’s the footwear like? JH: You could run a marathon in some of the trainers, but equally some of them are more suited for gym work and, of course, for the street. It’s cooler than the competition, and evolving quicker than the competition. And it’s between 30-50 per cent cheaper than the competition on top of that, so very aggressively priced at between £45-£65. It enables us to take modern sports shapes and get the elements of our clothing in to the shoes. With Superdry, on products like plimsols and flipflops – easy grab items – we do absolutely fantastic business. With the new sports shoes, the quality is as good as the market leaders, because we’ve spent two years working on it and researching the best factories who can achieve class leading quality at accessible pricing. It’s the first time sports trainers have been a major part of our collection. There are 56 styles across women’s and men’s. TB: Who is Superdry Sport targeted at consumer-wise? JH: As the mainline collection has grown up, I think we may have lost a little bit of the youth market. But this will definitely hit that 18-25 year-old market big time, especially with the photography and marketing, and with the slightly more modern cuts that we are doing. On the other hand, with the slightly older age group, we know they are more serious about a product’s technical capabilities, so there’s plenty for them here too. They were already buying in to Superdry in that kind of ‘athleisure’ market, but this is upping the game substantially. TB: What’s the appeal of the more technical side? JH: There’s a sub-brand within Superdry Sport collection called Carbon, which is unbelievable. It’s £95 for a jacket which, for Superdry, seems quite a lot, but the competition for such a technical piece would be more like £250. So, we’re still taking that Superdry mentality of offering the best product on the planet – pound for pound by far. Everyone is getting fitter, and we’re now supplying the right kit for them. We’re very excited about it. We really saw a gap in the market, and now we’re out to get some of that market share. I’m ferociously passionate about sport but, of course, primarily Julian and I are rag traders who can instinctively sense an opportunity. If you’re an entrepreneur, and you see a big gap in the market, you attack it.

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Denim deluxe New British premium denim brand Saltspin aims to take its share of the jeans market with a collection that is forged by artisans to the highest sustainable standards. Isabella Griffiths hears from founder Manoj Bharwani why affordability and accessibility are key to his strategy. There’s a new kid on the block in the world of luxury denim, and it’s already making waves among jeans aficionados and those in the know. Designed in London and hand crafted in Italy, Saltspin aims to bring an artisanal element to the blue stuff, with each pair forged by craftsmen in the finest Italian mills and styles that are timeless, understated, long-lasting and created to the highest production and environmental standards there are. The brand was founded by Manoj Bharwani, who has been heading Alpha 211, denim suppliers to large retail groups throughout the UK and the EU, for over 15 years. Saltspin is evidently his labour of love, and he has great ambitions for the label. “I have been involved with denim design, laundry and production for over 25 years, supplying to large retail groups which has taken me all over the world,” he explains. “Having worked in the industry for so long, I understand what women want. Subtle changes in fabric stretch, weight, pocket detailing or front/back rises might make a small difference individually, but consolidating these and improving them as a collective makes for a far superior jean. It’s all in the detail, as they say.” Evidently, what he doesn’t know about denim is not worth knowing, and it’s not surprising that the range has gone through five years of rigorous development before launching earlier this year, with each pair being meticulously handcrafted to achieve the ultimate level of smoothness to enhance a woman’s shape, and just the right amount of stretch for all-day comfort. Bharwani is clearly very proud of the product, and his passion for jeans is palpable. “Denim is mind-blowing and something which is always evolving. The complexity and infinite ways you can launder denim inspires and enables you to create the most innovative and unique jeans. Some of the technical details are not always known by the consumer, so it’s like this hidden family secret that only those in the industry are familiar with,” he enthuses. The name Saltspin also reflects the intricacies and complexities of the fibre. “We believe each person is the salt of the earth. I wanted to create authentic and trustworthy denim which caters to the needs of the individual – ‘salt’. Meanwhile, ‘spin’ stems from denim being spun from cotton, and the fact that you never know what will happen in the future. Bring everything together and you get Saltspin,” he explains. The brand is pitched alongside the best in the luxury denim sector, with the likes of J Brand, Paige and Frame among the main adjacencies, as well as contemporary labels such as Stella McCartney, Equipment and Theory. “That said, I also feel that as the product is so versatile and timeless, we can just as easily sit alongside accessory and lifestyle brands such as Loewe and Andrew Martin,” says Bharwani. >>>

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The collection itself is diverse and offers a range of fit options for every taste and body shape. There’s the skinny collection, the default fit of the brand; the comfort skinny collection, created for a more relaxed fit; the boyfriend collection for effortless, laid-back style; the kick-flare collection featuring slimming and leg-lengthening jeans; as well as a skirt and jacket denim range complementing the selection. Bharwani explains: “We don’t really have a signature style per se. The denim is always clean and elegant so that it can become that wearable wardrobe staple. Our branding is subtle with a single branded rose gold rivet as a stamp of approval, to allow the denim to speak for itself. On the other hand, in making the brand more accessible I wanted to appeal to a wider range of women so the collection will always have the minimal denims alongside bolder fashion styles. Wearing Saltspin denim should give women the confidence to be more ambitious with their fashion choices.” Retail prices reflect the level of production and complexity, of course, with prices starting at £120 upwards, though Bharwani is eager to stress that he wants Saltspin to remain accessible. “Whilst our product is luxury, I didn’t want to restrict people from being a part of the brand and wanted to be able to reach the woman who felt she previously couldn’t buy into premium denim,” he says. “Our RRPs range from £120-£225 for a fully flocked fashion jean with zips. The core offering, which includes skinny styles and Mom jeans, ranges from £145-£165. The highest priced item in the collection is our Carbon jacket, a coated biker that looks like leather, which retails for £320. Quality doesn’t always have to mean expensive, and I wanted to make luxury products more affordable,” he adds. At the forefront of Saltspin’s DNA is the artisanal touch, achieved not only from the painstaking, hand-crafted production process, but Bharwani’s commitment to being as environmentally-friendly as is possible in denim manufacturing. Only BCI approved cotton is used, and sustainable production processes utilised, including water reduction methods and cutting-edge denim recovery technology for an authentic and long-lasting finish. “We are continuously looking at new ways to ensure production is the most sustainable it can be – our next collection features a ‘detox denim’ which uses 80 per cent less water, 50 per cent less energy and 30 per cent less chemicals,” reveals Bharwani. With the product on point, Bharwani’s attention is now on distribution and on growing the label through selected wholesale accounts and premium boutiques in the UK. “We are looking towards luxury department stores (such as Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and Liberty) and key independent boutiques in terms of brand partners. These stores understand the value behind quality products and have an aesthetic which complements Saltspin’s powerful visual identity,” he says. “We have recently launched with Press in Primrose Hill and are having a fantastic first response – the Carbon jacket in particular has been a huge hit. Being a British brand, we are currently focusing on solidifying the UK market in terms of wholesale, before looking further afield on a more international level. Obviously, if any interesting opportunities arise in the interim, we will certainly look to see how we can get involved,” he adds. When it comes to the type of women who would wear Saltspin, Bharwani is equally clear. “Our target market are professionals who are fashion savvy and on trend, but who perhaps no longer want a skin tight super skinny or to dress how they did when they were younger. That’s not to say they want to dress in a more demure way; they are still stylish, they just have a different view on what luxury artisanal denim is.” He continues: “The woman who wears Saltspin is more conscious of what she is buying and where it came from, which is why we place a huge focus on sustainable production methods and innovative fabrics. They feel confident and feminine in our denim, not only physically but also emotionally.” Channelling 25 years of extensive experience into the Saltspin brand, and with the strategy, infrastructure and product all in place, the denim market has just got itself another serious player.

Come see us at Moda, NEC Birmingham Stand X21 Love Brands Limited. Tel: +44 (0)20 7702 0203 Email: sales@lovebrandsuk.com www.lovebrandsuk.com

10—12 September 2017 Olympia, London

ADVENTURES IN

FASHION Explore the unique worlds of Top Drawer, expertly curated to inspire your buying. With over 1,500 design-led brands, it’s the only destination for creative retailers to source irresistible new products.

YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS HERE Register now at topdrawer.co.uk/wwb

A/W 17 EDITION

T H E F LO R A L E CO L L EC T I O N Inspired by Triumphâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heritage in considered design and expert craftsmanship, Florale by Triumph is a premium collection of luxurious, decorative and figure-flattering lingerie for the sophisticated, mature woman. Led by the popular Peony Florale series, Spring Summer 2018 introduces exquisite designs inspired by exotic florals Azalea and Jasmin and features the innovative Ergoline Wire, spacer cup technology and signature 4-section wired cup for enhanced support and comfort. Florale by Triumph is the perfect choice for an elegant and timeless everyday style.

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Style File

The hottest brands not to miss this month q HAPPY ANNIVERSARY Inspired by characteristics that define rock and royalty, footwear label Lucy Choi is celebrating its five-year anniversary with a new heritage collection referencing key styles from previous season, with each style named after renowned British hotels and clubs. The brand is famed for its signature use of different textures and utilises luxurious leathers, soft suede, satins and hand-dyed silks.

u SNEAK PEEK Danish footwear brand Woden is going from strength to strength, with its cool and edgy sneakers gaining an increasing following. Based on functionality, anatomy and minimalism, the brand features high quality leathers and cork soles, with the s/s 18 collection available in an array of on-trend shades such as pinks, khakis and blues.

British belt label Elliot Rhodes is debuting a number of key new leather and buckle styles for s/s 18. With an enhanced colour palette of subtle blues, greys and other neutrals, and an endless selection of buckle designs, including newly launched elephant, octopus and snake versions, every taste is catered for.

t STYLE STATEMENT Catriona Hanly is a Londonbased designer who is redefining tweed and giving preppy an unconventional edge. Having studied at Central St. Martins, she creates modern classics, changing the look of womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tailoring. Using the most luxurious and sumptuous fabrics, each collection is timelessly elegant and always creates a style statement.

t NEW ROMANTICS London label Three Floor has launched its s/s 18 resortwear collection, full of whimsical, romantic and ultra feminine styles. Lace, silks and chiffons feature across the range, which offers modern silhouettes and unexpected details. With four collections a year, the brand has an enviable celebrity following that includes Amanda Seyfried, Ellie Goulding and Taylor Swift.

www.legero.at

My feet’s favourite shoes.

SUMMER STYLES 2017

LEGeRO has what feet love. Lightweight. Extremely comfortable. Breathable.

MODA Stand – G40 6th to 8th August 2017 Marcus Baker M.S.S.F. • Tel. +44 (0) 7775 995 547 • marcus.baker@legero.at

02 – 04 SEPT

OFFENBACH

WWW.ILM-OFFENBACH.DE FOLLOW US ON

SPRING - SUMMER 2018 Apt Collections Ltd T: 00 44 207 580 3202 E: nigel@aptcollections.ltd.uk / claudia@aptcollections.ltd.uk Showing at Moda, NEC Birmingham 6th - 8th August Stand Q61

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the essential guide to moda 6-8 August, NEC Birmingham WWB brings you a comprehensive overview of everything that is on offer at the s/s 18 edition of the national fashion trade show, covering contemporary womenswear, footwear, accessories and activewear – and not forgetting the raft of topical seminars and presentations that round off the event. MODA WOMAN... PAGE 38 MODA BODY/ACTIVE... PAGE 48 MODA FOOTWEAR... PAGE 52 MODA ACCESSORIES... PAGE 56 MODA WHAT’S ON... PAGE 58 Q&A WITH STYLUS’S EMILY GORDON-SMITH... PAGE 60 MODA NOIR... PAGE 75 >>>

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JAMES LAKELAND The latest collection by Moda regular James Lakeland exudes effortless glamour, with a colourful palette and vibrant energy that incorporates more special occasion pieces. The brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s usual feminine and flattering signature prevails, however, with A-line silhouettes and knee-length hems key this season. Moda White, Stand V39.

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The national womenswear show returns to the NEC in Birmingham, presenting some of the biggest names in contemporary womenswear alongside new launches and fresh faces. WWB sums up some of the key brands to check out.

BADOO Greek brand Badoo returns to Moda with a wearable collection referencing key trends with a distinct signature style. Prints and colours are key in the range, as are flattering, feminine silhouettes, with a multitude of dresses taking centre stage once more. Moda White, Stand V31.

PERUZZI Colour in varying degrees of softness and intensity is the hallmark of this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection from Peruzzi. From vibrant prints in blue tones to pistachio and strawberry to monochromes, the collection reflects a very feminine vibe. Fitted and uncluttered silhouettes dominate, providing a high degree of versatility. Popular linen makes a return in a range of smart shapes with a boutique vibe. Moda White, Stand X49.

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BIANCA Bianca favours a sporty direction this season, with relaxed and versatile styles at the forefront. Lightweight knits and eye-catching tops sit alongside denim pieces that can be dressed up and down for daywear to the weekend. Hot pink is a key accent colour alongside monochromes, greys and blues. Moda Woman, Stand Q50.

EVA TRALALA This season at Eva Tralala sees an influx of prints influenced by Caribbean hues â&#x20AC;&#x201C; limes, oranges, lemons and more, while safari adventures inspire bright colours from Africa. Linen and hemp are key, though all materials used are fluid but structured, contributing to the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s individual and elegant style. Moda White, Stand X30.

CORAL & CO Coral & Co Australia is a new fashion brand, available in sizes 10-26. The collection offers a strong emphasis on mix-and-match in its stylish range of pleated dresses, jackets, skirts, silk-mix resort wear and silk scarves. Unique prints and styles take inspiration from elements of Australia, with most garments providing easy-care wash and wear. Moda Woman, Stand S48.

RUBY SEES ALL Making its Moda debut, Australian brand Ruby Sees All embraces avant-garde concepts for the style-aware, translating them into wearable, elegant and individual pieces. Focusing on clean lines and bold statement wear, the brand offers five collections a year. Moda White, Stand W52.

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FEE G Pretty feminine shapes with candy crush colours typify s/s 18 at Fee G. Dresses once more take centre stage, with styles that bridge the gap between dressy daywear and occasion pieces. Playful embroidered dresses create a modern alternative, while reversible brocades form the basis of elegant dress coats. Moda White, Stand X20.

AVENTURES DES TOILES The concept of Aventures des Toiles is based on the artwork of contemporary artists and this season, four artists have been selected as inspiration for five different themes. Vibrant colours, geometrical shapes, tropical and ethnic design details, denim and sportswear looks sum up the key direction this season. Moda White, Stand V28.

NÜ DENMARK NÜ Denmark’s s/s 18 collection takes inspiration from the natural beauty of the season, offering a burst of feminine boho designs, with prints and wildlife motifs alongside versatile neutrals. Creamy whites and copper browns lead the colour palette, while unstructured tops, tunics and dresses are among the predicted bestsellers. Moda White, Stand X21.

VLT’S BY VALENTINAS Italian brand VLT’s by Valentinas specialises in shirts and blouses and debuts at Moda with an array of styles. Made in Tuscany from the finest materials, each piece offers eye-catching design details and trims in addition to impeccable fit, earning the brand a reputation across Europe and further afield. Moda White, Stand W40.

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MICHAELA LOUISA Michaela Louisa’s collection once again successfully bridges day to occasionwear, with styles that are wearable and adaptable. The dress remains at the core of the range, with plenty of choices from floaty summer styles to more structured pencil dresses. A warm colour scheme of neutrals, soft pastels, yellows and pinks underpins the collection, as do an abundance of floral and abstract prints. Moda Woman, Stand T31.

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EMRECO A vibrant and youthful flair is given to summer dressing at Emreco, with zesty shades of yellow, pink, jade and blue making a splash over simple silhouettes made to flatter. Floaty kimonos, loose linen tees and soft skimming dresses encapsulate relaxed glamour, whilst lively lemon prints bring garments to life, featured on striking jumpsuits and dresses, and embroidered across lightweight knitwear. Moda Woman, Stand R50.

MD’M Created and designed in Madrid, Md’M is a contemporary boho chic collection aimed at women aged 35-plus. The s/s 18 collection is inspired by the Latin world, with colours and prints key. Soft and delicate fabrics form the basis of the collection, featuring cotton, viscose, Tencel and many other materials. Key colours are pumpkin, magenta, blue and green tones. Moda Woman, Stand S40.

MARBLE From summer brights to vibrant prints, Marble’s collection references all key trends this season, offering another extensive ready-to-wear collection centred around versatile knits and complementary tops, dresses and jeans. Moda Woman, Stand R40.

>>>

Luxury Australian Style

www.coralandco.com.au

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SMASHED LEMON Expect to find fresh and vibrant summer prints at Smashed Lemon this season, with dresses and outfits for all occasions. The Dutch brand returns with a bright and colourful collection, capturing the spirit of Amsterdam. New for s/s 18 is the introduction of a wider range of separates to sit alongside the staple dress collection the brand is known for. Moda Woman, Stand S40.

FOIL ‘Throw-on-and-go’ pieces are the hallmark of Foil, which has seen rapid growth over the last few seasons. Designed to fit and flatter, the collection features linen and silk tops, tunics and dresses, and this season’s key trend, trapeze trousers and culottes. A multitude of colour options is available. Moda Woman, Stand S40.

PARKER SMITH Premium US denim brand Parker Smith is making its Moda debut, with the line emphasising highest quality fabrics and tailored silhouettes. The brand is known for its universally flattering shapes for all body types, focusing on mid and high rises and a specially engineered fit with slimming effect. Made in downtown LA, the collection also includes trousers and printed denim with the same superior features. Moda White, Stand W40.

MARIE MERO Exotic countries and heavenly beaches were the source of inspiration at Marie Mero this season. Highlights in the range include blouses with flared sleeves and layers, loose jackets, wide trousers, long skirts and the brand’s popular dresses. Gold zips, refined animal prints, ethnic designs and rustic materials reinforce the adventurous nature of this collection. Moda Woman, Stand S57.

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POMODORO A fashion story at Pomodoro this season is Marrakech Express, centred around a strong monochrome mix of black and cream with vivacious orange. Prints are graphic and bold, featuring a dramatic African border or tile print, while silhouettes are contemporary and transform from early spring to summer with ease. Moda Woman, Stand Q40.

FABER Raspberry and candy pink make up a key colour story at Faber this season, skilfully juxtaposed against on-trend monochromes. The brand is presenting a contemporary signature, with lightweight fine knit styles dominating the range, while the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s knitted dress is among the many highlights. Moda Woman, Stand Q60.

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525 AMERICA US label 525 America arrives at Moda with a selection of high quality cotton sweaters in modern shapes, textures and colours, with the styling spanning from classic to cutting-edge across cottons, chenille, cashmere and more. The brand was established back in 1984 and has since been a driving force in the design-led knitwear sector. Moda Woman, Stand Q81.

GODSKE The Godske collection is a feminine and casual range that reflects current trends but always with a relaxed and understated expression. Easy-towear styles dominate, with high quality materials, excellent fit and finishes summing up the range. Moda Woman, Stand U41 / U51.

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ALDOMARTINS An explosion of colour defines s/s 18 at Spanish brand Aldomartins, which is showing for the first time at Moda. Bold patterns and graphic and tropical hues lead the way, while maxi dresses, summer ponchos and wraps and light knits make up the collection. Moda White, Stand W20.

VERPASS Bold border prints, sequences, exotic and jungle patterns, as well as simple spotted and small all-over animal motifs set new accents in Verpassâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection, which is divided into nine distinct capsules. Soft, flowing materials such as viscose and jersey lay the foundations for contemporary and flattering outfits. Moda Woman, Stand Q58.

BRAKEBURN Key looks at British active lifestyle brand Brakeburn are inspired by its Dorset roots. A casual, relaxed signature runs through the collection, with easy-to-wear dresses, tops, pants, footwear and outdoor styles available in the range. Moda Woman, Stand R61.

THOUGHT Formerly Braintree Clothing, Thought, which was relaunched with its new name last season, heads into s/s 18 with a revised pricing structure, allowing retailers a greater margin. The collection remains true to the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ethical roots, with sustainable fabrics at the core, while silhouettes are relaxed and colours vivid and yet subtle. Moda Woman, Stand R71.

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SAHARA Loose, unstructured shapes define the look at Sahara, with its bohemian chic aesthetic remaining at the core for s/s 18. Hues of corals, blues, greys and neutrals lead the colour palette, while each piece is carefully hand-created using luxurious natural fabrics and traditional textiles. Moda White, Stand W51.

FRENCH DRESSING French Dressing delivers a lifestyle collection based around figure-flattering jeans in various styles, fits and rises, with all pieces designed to lift the derriĂ¨re and slim the tummy. The range is complemented by a collection of coordinates, including sweaters, blouses, jackets and vests. Moda White, Stand V49.

LIGHTHOUSE Belfast brand Lighthouse takes inspiration from the green rural landscapes and picturesque beaches of Northern Ireland. Its outdoor clothing collection is based around three core principles: to be stylish, protective and durable. Fashionable raincoats, jackets and parkas form part of the collection, which comes in vibrant, summery hues this season. Moda Woman, Stand Q70.

LATTE The s/s 18 collection at Latte is centred around blouses, deconstructed shirts, elegant tunic tops, soft midi dresses and longer length dresses. Knitwear features voluminous sleeves using varying yarns and statement jackets to be worn day and evening complete the look, while colours include baked pink, turquoise, denim drift and zesty hues. Moda White, Stand W49.

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BACOSPORT

moda

XAVI

body / active

O’NEILL

Don’t miss the arrival of Body/Active, the brand new platform within Moda Woman this August. Athleisure is happening now. From the yoga class to the office, athleisure clothing is the contemporary lifestyle choice for women, and this season it benefits from Body/Active, the brand new platform within Moda Woman. Body/Active is the exciting new concept which will connect buyers with the athleisure movement. Situated alongside the catwalk, Body/Active brings activewear to life with catwalk scenes and seminar features designed to inspire. Already estimated to be worth £7bn in the UK alone, the athleisure market is tipped to grow by a further 30 per cent by 2020. For retailers who want to tap into this ever-growing trend and add a profitable category to their product mix, Moda Body/Active is the place to be.

KSL

ELLE SPORT

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THE TRIACTION COLLECTION Triaction by Triumph is a stylish, high-performance sportswear collection that gives modern women the freedom to train how and when they like. For Spring Summer 2018, Triaction by Triumph introduces, Magic Motion® Pro. Guaranteeing the highest and best bounce control available on the market, the latest cardio series offers stylish fits, softness and breathability thanks to its soft-touch Magic Wire® Air innovation. This season’s collection also features Zip Lite, a new front closure style to the Dynamic Lite series and the launch of active wear, designed to be mix and matched for a super stylish yet functional sportswear outfit, no matter what the activity.

F I N D T H E O N E T H AT M O V E S Y O U TRIUMPH.COM

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JOE BROWNS Following its successful debut last season, Joe Browns returns with its latest offer for s/s 18. Already a high street favourite, the label adapts its signature quirky style for the footwear sector, with floral prints, bow embellishment and ribbons setting it apart as a distinctive brand to watch. Stand F39.

moda

footwear

The UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s national trade footwear event returns to the NEC this season, offering womenswear buyers the opportunity to buy cohesively across the sectors.

HOLSTER Holster launches its Azura collection at this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Moda Footwear, revealing a range of footwear characterised by a glowing colour palette, iridescent highlights and sparkling embellishment. This spring also sees Holster diversify beyond its signature silhouettes into a range of wedges for added height with no compromise on wearabilty. Stand A3.

PRETTY YOU LONDON Bringing footwear fashion indoors, Pretty You London redefines the slipper sector with its launch at Moda Footwear. Since its inception in 2014, the brand has taken the softest of steps towards both the fashion and gift consumer with its boudoir designs. Plush textures, luxuriously padded soles and on-trend shapes including super-cute ballerinas and cosy booties harbour a wide appeal across the footwear and womenswear sectors alike. Stand H4.

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UNISA Already established as a global leader in footwear, Spanish label Unisa arrives from the shoe-making region of Elda this season with a range of designs for women and girls that bring contemporary styles to life with traditional artisan craftsmanship. Don’t miss the brand’s popular ‘Mum and me’ designs which offer merchandising potential across the demographics. Stand G38.

K-SWISS Already a favourite among consumers, K-Swiss needs little in the way of introduction ahead of its debut at Moda Footwear. Since the launch of its first all-white leather tennis shoe, K-Swiss has inspired generations with its quality, performance and fit. Discover on-court performance and off-court style when the brand unveils its new s/s 18 styles at the exhibition. Stand J18.

IPANEMA Defined by summer itself, Ipanema is a Brazilian institution and a global success. The brand adds a pretty twist to its latest styles with eye-catching embellishment and a vibrant new colour palette inspired by the spirit of Brazil. Stand H35.

EVALUNA Italian label Evaluna presents a range of luxurious women’s styles in fine leather. Characterised by urban style, the range features easy-chic wedges and functional pumps as well as more glamorous designs. Evaluna was established in 1986 and already has a Europe-wide and American presence; it arrives into the UK via agent Charlie Nicole. Stand E21.

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moda

footwear

OAK & HYDE Newly-launched label Oak & Hyde enjoyed a successful debut at Moda Footwear in February. The brand returns this month with its spring offer, adapting all of its comfort and style expertise into new silhouettes for the warmer months. Stand G1

LOINTS OF HOLLAND Loints of Holland celebrates a century of production as it makes its debut at Moda Footwear. With the brand defined by its principles of unique Dutch design, comfort and ecoawareness, expect to see a range of shoes designed to be resoled and repaired for longevity, each created to have as little impact on the natural environment as possible. Stand I29.

STATUS New to Moda Footwear this season, Status is designed in Spain from carefully selected Spanish components. Expect to see women’s styles designed for warmer climes, from on-trend espadrilles to casual sneakers. Stand B21.

YOKONO Proudly made in Spain from natural – and comfortable – materials, Yokono harbours a wide appeal thanks to its fresh take on design. The brand will showcase a spring collection featuring wedges and flats at this season’s show. Stand G30.

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moda

accessories

Take the opportunity to discover complementary collections of millinery, accessories, jewellery and handbags at this season’s Moda Accessories.

JELLY JOLLY LONDON A new face at Moda Accessories, Jelly Jolly London is an innovative concept allowing wearers to create a unique look through transparent boots, colourful socks and translucent bags. The brand appeals to a wide range of consumers, from the festivalgoer to the urban city girl, and will introduce its collection to the trade at the show. Stand Z57.

ELIZA GRACIOUS Now in its sixth year, Eliza Gracious is a design-led jewellery label with accessible price points. The brand stays on trend with its contemporary finishes and statement silhouettes, while retaining a wide appeal across the demographics thanks to its wearability. Stand Y21. p

J.BEES MILLINERY J.Bees Millinery offers three distinct collections to cover every base when it comes to style and price points. This season sees the brand inject a flash of colourful inspiration across its core J.Bees offer – primarily targeting the wedding guest consumer – higher end diffusion line Emma B (pictured) and value collection Libby Bea. Stand Z1.

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BULAGGI Following its debut last season, Dutch handbag label Bulaggi makes a welcome return to Moda Accessories with its latest non-leather styles for the new season. The brand has upped the quality of its designs and embellishment, taking the already well regarded label to the next level. Stand W59.

BOARDMANS British millinery specialist Boardmans presented a streamlined collection at last seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Moda, alongside its recently acquired Alice Hannah collection. This season will see the brand build upon the success of its new direction with a fresh collection of styles for s/s 18. Stand X1.

VIXEN Millinery designer Vivien Sheriff was always going to capture the imagination of buyers with its diffusion line Vixen, and the brand is now well established in its own right. Discover a range of elegant hats in eye-catching styles this season, each perfectly suited to the modern-day racegoer or wedding guest. Stand Z2.

ZOHARA Making its Moda Accessories debut this season, Zohara arrives from Northern Ireland with a striking collection of leather accessories for women. The brand is inspired by the natural beauty of the Causeway Coast, and each creation is manufactured in specially selected high grain leather. Stand Y39.

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what’s on at moda Look beyond the product and be part of something bigger for s/s 18. As the main event of the fashion season, Moda offers a comprehensive seminar programme, live catwalk events and social gatherings that bring like-minded professionals together to celebrate the start of the season. This edition will see Moda build upon the success of New Business Tuesday, a concept introduced in February to celebrate new talent within the industry. Presented in conjunction with Bira – the British Independent Retailers Association – New Business Tuesday will welcome burgeoning retailers on the final day of the show with a range of tailored seminars targeting newcomers to the trade.

Co-ordinate your diary and get the most out of your visit to Moda this August.

CATWALK THEATRE HALL 18 SUNDAY 6 AUGUST 10.00 - 10.30 Woman catwalk 11.15 - 11.45 Occasionwear catwalk 12.30 - 13.00 Gent catwalk 13.45 - 14.15 Woman catwalk 15.00 - 15.30 Occasionwear catwalk 16.15 - 16.45 Gent catwalk 18.00 - 18.30 Occasionwear catwalk & drinks MONDAY 7 AUGUST 10.00 - 10.30 Occasionwear catwalk 11.15 - 11.45 Gent catwalk 12.30 - 13.00 Woman catwalk 13.45 - 14.15 Occasionwear catwalk 15.00 - 15.30 Gent catwalk 17.00 - 17.30 Woman catwalk TUESDAY 8 AUGUST 10.30 - 11.00 Woman catwalk 12.30 - 13.00 Gent catwalk 13.45 - 14.15 Occasionwear catwalk

SEMINAR HIGHLIGHTS R A C H E L P E T E R M A N Looking to grow your retail business this year and compete on a limited budget? Industry expert Rachel Peterman reveals how independent retailers and brands can compete against large high street stores, drawing on her experience working with Gucci, Bloomingdales, Michael Kors and Coach. Sunday 8 August, 11.45 S T A C E Y J A C K S O N Montreal-born singer-songwriter and fitness idol Stacey Jackson is equally admired for her fitness and her music. As a trained fitness instructor, the global personality is an expert when it comes to looking good while working out and – having launched her own activewear collection StaeFit, which includes a patent-pending sports top with a built-in bra – she’s perfectly placed to deliver a thought-provoking seminar on the rise of athleisure. Monday 7 August, 13.00 J U L I E H O L D E N You’re entrepreneurial and proudly independent, but that doesn’t mean you have to do everything alone. Bira’s national membership manager Julie Holden invites truly inspirational retailers to the stage to explain how they stand out in their community and benefit from collective strength as a Bira member, sharing ideas as well as expertise with likeminded retailers. Sunday 6 August, 11.45 T O M C R I D L A N D For any new start-up, the idea of being a global success can seem like a pipe dream. Discover how one designer made it a reality, transforming his passion for sustainable menswear into a global concept – with over 80,000 followers on social media – with a single start-up loan. Tuesday 8 August, 10.30. W A R R E N K N I G H T International keynote speaker Warren Knight returns to Moda with an inspiring seminar revealing how every business owner can engage customers online to generate sales. Having personally built a £1m technology company in less than two years, Knight’s vision is to help 100,000 entrepreneurs to reach similar levels of success. Sunday 6 August, 16.15 and Monday 7 August, 10.30. L I S A P A Y N E From climate chaos and fast-fashion fatigue to depleting natural resources and under-served demographics, the fashion industry is currently going through major upheaval. Lisa Payne – beauty editor at Stylus – dissects the big issues affecting business for retailers, brands and manufacturers, and highlights the key opportunities for growth – with insights that are relevant to a breadth of industries. Sunday 6 August, 13.00.

VISIT

WWB-ONLINE.CO

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Q&A: Emily Gordon-Smith, head of fashion at innovation research and trends agency Stylus Isabella Griffiths: How do trends emerge and how does your agency spot them? Emily Gordon-Smith: Trends – big and small – emerge by identifying patterns, and looking at how things are changing from one moment to the next. Spotting trends relies on broad and deep analysis, using a variation of research techniques – from attending events and speaking to industry experts, to observing influencers and beyond. Watching social, economic, political and technological drivers is also important. From a fashion perspective, we focus on catwalk trends, but also on macro issues like wellbeing, comfort and sustainability. These larger pieces are particularly important as we see trends become increasingly guided by influences beyond the catwalk. The comfort centred, lifestyle-focused apparel trend, for instance, is being driven by consumers rather than high fashion design. IG: How can retailers ensure that they buy into/reference key trends but that products are still wearable and saleable? EG-S: The focus should be on selecting product that is comfort and active focused and also multifunctional. Trends can then be interpreted through something simple like colour evolution – which is a slow process – updated accurately, and through detail and trims. The most successful products might look quite simple or basic, but can be made relevant and on-trend through subtle details. IG: As an agency, you take a cross-industry viewpoint. What do you see as the biggest industry-bridging trends to emerge? EG-S: Wellbeing represents a huge opportunity for brands across the board. For fashion that takes the form of comfort – but not in the traditional sense of your favourite slippers. Comfort is much more about technicality – breathable fabrics, super lightweight, waterproof, fabrics that move the way they need to move. Fashion brands should look to imbue their products with comfort qualities, appealing to that desire for multi-functionality. IG: What are the key challenges and changes in retail environments at the moment? EG-S: The one-size-fits-all approach to the retail environment is long gone. As a result, the main challenge for retailers is to create the most relevant physical store format for their customers. The retail store isn’t just a place to buy anymore, it’s a place to experience, learn and connect. Figures show that people largely do want to shop in stores (especially younger people, interestingly), but it’s essential that brands use their physical space to talk to that desire for experiences.

To satisfy consumer desire to learn, for instance, we’re seeing a new breed of retailers transforming their flagships to become Research & Development hubs – blending their internal processes with consumers looking to increase their knowledge to boost their careers. This illustrates an important shift from in-store learning being purely hobbyist fun to a more professionally relevant realm. Technology also has a large role to play in the future of the store. One of the biggest challenges with technology is providing a smooth connection between a brand’s various channels. This is where live commerce and apps can help, enabling brands to view their business as one entire ecosystem, rather than constituent parts. As a result of increased tech in-store, we will also see the role of store staff changing, with the hard sell being swapped for more empathetic skills. In fact, some retailers have indicated that we’re entering a dawn of ‘stores as service centres’ – accommodating both physical and online services – with personal tech becoming a proprietary selling kit. The most successful revisions of store roles will be those that recast staff as points of connection between online, in-store and even social media. IG: How are consumer behaviours changing, and how does this influence the retail and fashion industry? EG-S: One of the main trends we’re seeing is a return to basics or neutral offerings, which is a direct response to a growing number of influences: smaller living spaces, fast-fashion fatigue, and a more conscientious approach to consumption. At the same time it plays to season-neutral concepts as brands and retailers struggle to respond to seasonal flux, which is only going to become more debilitating. Climate-adjusted range planning strategies will become a thing of necessity – especially for brands now selling across multiple territories. IG: Which fashion trends are here to stay? EG-S: Athleisure, comfort and multifunctional apparel is really driving everything that’s working well in fashion right now. And the figures agree – Morgan Stanley predicts the activewear industry will be worth $83bn by 2020, compared to overall fashion sales which have slowed to just 2-3 per cent growth. This move is all about fashion lifestyle, as opposed to traditional fashion trends. Catch more from Stylus at Moda on Sunday 6 August at 1pm at the Catwalk theatre in Hall 18.

TINA TAYLOR Spring Summer 2018

Showing at MODA (NEC) STAND R35 Or should you require we can visit you by appointment, please contact Maia on 07557 900975 or E-mail maia@tinataylor.co.uk Tina Taylor, Bradstock, Underway, Combe St Nicholas, Somerset. TA20 3NS. Tel: 0146065803

www.tinataylor.co.uk

Moda, NEC Stand T11

FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522 FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518 E.MAIL. info@mascaracollection.com WEB. www.mascaracollection.com Copyright © 2015 - 2018 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2014. All rights reserved

Photographer – Richard Boyle | Hair and makeup – Lauren Rippin www.laurensally.co.uk | Stylist – Victoria Jackson Model – Sarah Bramley www.bossmodelmanagement.co.uk | Location – Ibérica Leeds www.ibericarestaurants.com

GLAMOUR SIRENS Evening and occasionwear goes all out in classic Hollywood style, with Oscars-worthy red carpet gowns and film-star looks receiving top billing. WWB picks the defining outfits of s/s 18, from show-stopping frocks to understated yet ultra-elegant jumpsuits.

Dress – Lana Marie by Ariella £70 020 8883 7288 | Jewellery – Stylist's own

Jumpsuit – Cameron Blake £160 01954 232102 Jewellery – Stylist's own

Jumpsuit – Sonia Pena price on request 0034 952 240 368 Jewellery – Stylist's own

Dress – Manon £98 020 8830 1288 Jewellery – Stylist's own

Dress – Mascara £99 020 8965 1522 Jewellery – Stylist's own

Dress – Veromia Occasions £115 020 8502 2257

Jacket – Bellfield £48 0161 230 7312 Dress – Silvian Heach price on request 020 3432 6385 Boots – stylist’s own

Dress – Eternity Prom £175 08707 707670 Jewellery – Stylist's own

Dress – Motel Rocks price on request 020 3137 6235 Shirt – People Tree £20 020 7042 8900 Socks – Happy Socks £3.60 07929 343061 Boots – stylist’s own

Shirt and skirt combination – Carla Ruiz €110 07989 014141 Jewellery – Stylist's own

Top – Paola £80 07989 014141 | Trousers – Paola £97 07989 014141 Jewellery – Stylist's own

Dress – Ellie Wilde by Mon Cheri £115 01954 232102 Jewellery – Stylist's own

Showing Luis Civit, Claudia C, Aldo Martins, Eroke, Viento Donna & Lewis Henry at The Trinity Suite, The Holiday Inn, Carburton Street, London W1W 5EE from 19th July - 3rd August and 9th August - 16th August Also showing at Moda: Luis Civit and Claudia C: Stand W10 Aldo Martins: Stand W20 Eroke: Stand W21 Lewis Henry: V21 Please call for an appointment: 07702 135 090 / 020 7323 2012 Email: amanda@amandanimmo.com www.amandanimmo.com

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JOHN CHARLES This seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designs stay true to the DNA of John Charles, with a variety of new shapes added. From a fun, floaty tea-length to a striking floor-length that blurs the line between night and day, the collection offers a shape for everyone. Soft metallics blend seamlessly with pops of citrus, blush pinks and classic statement blues. Moda Noir, T21. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; t

Dress code

From red carpet gowns to trendy off-the-shoulder looks, s/s 18 is a culmination of elegance and glamour. WWB sums up what some of the key players in the evening and occasionwear sector have to offer this season. uuu

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FELY CAMPO A modern occasionwear collection inspired by the vintage clothing of the 60s, for s/s 18 Fely Campo presents splash prints with trailing sashes in contrast colours. Bold contrasting is a key feature, while cropped jackets and shawls in organza complement an array of flattering dresses. — u

ROSA CLARA Elegance and sophistication describe the USP at Rosa Clara, with figure-flattering silhouettes taking the lead. Chic two-piece sets, classic pencil dresses in refined fabrics and intricate dresses create a versatile collection, from mother of the bride to other special occasions. Moda Noir, W7. — u

p K-KHOU Floor-length red-carpet gowns sit alongside contemporary pencil and occasion dresses at K-Khou Madrid. A monochrome colour scheme is complemented by bursts of colour such as pinks and reds, while polka dots dominate. Moda Noir, Q58. —

p MISS ETERN Miss Etern is a subtle, classy look for guests as well as the mother of the bride. Well priced and expertly made in the company’s own Barcelona factory, the brand is known for its fit and swift repeats. Pink, silver and navy jacquards are used in dresses, coats and small jackets, always with the option of a small sleeve. —

p GILL HARVEY Gill Harvey is a modern occasionwear collection as an alternative to the traditional mother-of-the-bride formula. The collection features vintage inspired beaded dresses and softer fabrication two pieces that ooze elegance, sophistication and glamour. Moda Noir, W6. —

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MASCARA Mascara offers effortless glamour with statement pieces that are flattering and functional. Fabrics include chiffon, jersey, silk and lace to create feminine silhouettes, while pastels and vibrant tones enrich the palette of colours. Moda Noir, T11. — u

TERESA RIPOLL Highlights at Teresa Ripoll are three-quarter sleeve standalone dresses, swing coats and vintage inspired jackets to go over sleeveless or cap sleeve dresses. Key colours include washed out lime green, crystal blues and pinks as well as stronger burnt orange, yellow and fuchsia. —

SONIA PENA Avant-garde takes centre stage as it defines the Sonia Pena collection this season. Exploring new trends and translating them into glamorous yet wearable styles, this season is all about new forms and reimagined classics with a monochrome colour scheme at the core. Moda Noir, V7. — u

p CARLA RUIZ Strong vibrant colours are at the core of the collection, including bright yellow hues and prints in soft silk chiffons that create fluidity and effortless elegance. Embroidered lace edged with polka dot mesh is a key feature. Moda Noir, U7. —

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IRRESISTIBLE This season’s new collection has been designed to be worn at any occasion. An array of colours, from soft muted tones, pretty pinks and cool blues, to two tone prints and classic silver and gold with a splash of vibrant pink underpin the range, with a focus on new shapes and detailing. Moda Noir, T4. —

p RAISHMA Raishma’s collection is feminine and delicate, with modern elements of beading. 3D embroidery and textured patterns embellishing simple and versatile classic cuts on unusual laces, tulles and georgettes to create an ethereal yet contemporary look. —

ELLIE WILDE BY MON CHERI The Ellie Wilde for Mon Cheri collection is awash with purples, navy blues, magentas and teals. Dramatic mermaid shapes, plunging V-necklines, two and three piece sets and tulle ruffled skirts all feature, while prom styles see new hi-tech fabrics and digital printing with body-shaping precision engineering. Moda Noir, W9. — t

CRYSTAL BREEZE Glamour and fun inspire the Crystal Breeze s/s 18 prom and eveningwear collection. Cut-out and illusion back and sides are dominant. Long dresses dominate, though there is plenty of leg on display, while pretty beadwork blending with the dress colour is a new feature. —

p GINO CERRUTI Gino Cerruti offers a vast collection based on impeccable fit and high-quality fabrics. This season’s evening range takes inspiration from red carpets around the world, while the prom line is fun, vibrant and richly ornate. The MOB collection considers shape and detail to make each outfit a statement. Moda Noir, W8. —

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djoyce.com wwwwww. .rroonnaa ll d joyce.com View the beautiful Spring / Summer 2018 collection at Moda 6TH - 8TH AUGUST

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p GINA BACCONI White and neutral pastels dominate the Gina Bacconi collection this season, with an emphasis on sleeves with unusual shapes and detailing to create an additional twist. Floral prints and off-the-shoulder styles are among the key trends. —

p VEROMIA Veromia Occasions is a well-priced dress collection suitable for all social events. Spring / summer 18 is defined by soft pinks and mochas, vivid lemons and hot pinks. Dresses feature stretch to enhance the shape, while clever pleating and ruching also form part of key styles. Moda Noir, T4. —

ZEILA Elegant and contemporary occasion styles define the signature at Zeila, with sophisticated silhouettes and two-piece outfits forming the core of the range. Clever sleeve designs take centre stage and add versatility and wide appeal to each look. Florals and hues of blue are key trends. Moda Noir, W19. — u

LEXUS Lexus is a leading brand from Spain dedicated to occasion wear, mother of the bride and cocktail dresses. Asymmetric lines and cut-out and crop details are among the key trends this season, with the collection spanning a vast choice from red carpet gowns, to modern outfits for weddings or races. Moda Noir, U29. — t

p CABOTINE This season, classic forms are redesigned in large skirts and carefully crafted silhouettes in jacquards, while silks, crepe and tulle also feature. An explosion of vivid colours, from metallic gold to sublime nudes through jade and fuchsia round off the range. Moda Noir, Stand W19. —

View the 2018 Prom collection at Moda UK, Hall 20, Stand V11

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Top Drawer

10 – 12 SEPTEMBER, OLYMPIA, LONDON

The home, gift and lifestyle show returns for a jam-packed a/w 17 edition, with an increasing number of fashion and accessories labels showcasing their latest collections. WWB takes its pick of some of the brands worth checking out. DALLIANCE & NOBLE A new name in the Top Drawer line-up, Dalliance & Noble creates luxurious, digitally printed silk accessories. Awardwinning British designer James Skinner meticulously hand draws each design with an intense level of detail and beauty. Each piece has a narrative representing historical events, people, objects and places, with all products printed and manufactured in England. New prints showcased at Top Drawer include Wise Old Parrot (pictured), Barnes The Elephant and Dancing Jellyfish. Stand 134.

ADEELA SALEHJEE Covetable London luxury knitwear brand Adeela Salehjee specialises in edgy and versatile, modern yet timeless designs with a focus on natural fibres, predominantly cashmere and cashmere blends. Set to be unveiled at Top Drawer, the brand’s latest collection is inspired by a passion for travel, combining luxury with a bohemian lifestyle. The core designs are understated and chic with unexpected statement style elements. The collection includes cashmere cardigans, crew neck styles with functional plackets at the side seams, batwing cape sweaters, relaxed beanies and jacquard knit blanket shawls. Stand 128.

YAWN New to Top Drawer’s September edition is luxury nightwear brand Yawn. Cut for complete comfort on the softest luxury fabrics, Yawn introduces a feelgood range of sleep and lounge wear with understated style. Skilfully made and imaginatively designed, with 100 per cent bespoke cotton and luxurious finishing, the brand plays on its trademark of hidden messages and illustrations. The latest collection is inspired by transforming dark and stormy lazy evenings into a luxurious ‘me time’ experience. For colder months, the cosy cotton sateen and cotton chambray fabrics provide warmth, while the cooler lightweight luxury cotton sateen or Lyocell cotton with marl jersey are great for year-round comfort. Stand 124.

TIGHTOLOGY Another new addition to the Top Drawer fashion scene is Tightology, an Australian independent hosiery label with a social and environmental conscience. The brand is made in Australia and Italy, using fine materials, luxurious fibres and a detailed design approach. Unveiling over 20 unique designs of tights, socks and knee highs this season, the range boasts a variety of colours, intricate textures and strong graphics. Stand 612

HELEN MOORE Helen Moore is the premier UK brand for hand finished faux fur products, using the softest and most luxurious fabric available. The brand showcases an exciting new collection of fashion accessories at Top Drawer this season, including bags, scarves, hats, collars, slipper boots, coat cuffs and boot toppers. With great attention to detail, every piece has been designed and made in North Devon. Stand 303

For more information, pre-registration and the full breadth of products and brands at the show, visit www.topdrawer.co.uk.

Spring/Summer 2018

www.capriclothing.co.uk sales@capriclothing.co.uk Tel: 0203 819 0819

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Retailer spotlight:

STOCKPORT INDIE’S BIRTHDAY BASH

BOUTIQUE HOSTS FASHION SHOW

Fashion boutique Weave Womenswear recently celebrated its second anniversary with an in-store event. Launched by owner Caroline Fletcher, the boutique based in Heaton Moor, Stockport, opened its doors in 2015 and has since experienced considerable success. To mark the occasion, the boutique held an instore evening event. Guests were treated to fizz and canapés, as well as exclusive discounts. Footwear brand Taylor Blake Shoes was also in attendance to launch its new Botany range of ballet style flats.

Harrogate independent Bias recently held its first fashion show, inviting 100 guests along to view the latest collections available to buy in-store. On the night, guests could also purchase raffle tickets in aid of St Michaels Hospice, with prizes donated from local Harrogate businesses. The evening was also a chance for the retailer to treat guests to cocktails which will be served in its new cocktail bar opening in the town later this year.

Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry

HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE , LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEB SITE , ORGANISED AN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT REBECCA . JACKSON@RAS-PUBLISHING.COM.

Web watch:

WWW.STICKANDRIBBON.COM

Nottingham indie Stick & Ribbon is firmly rooted in the heart of the city’s retail landscape, with its bricks and mortar store serving as the go-to place for independent womenswear fashion. In-store services such as personal shopping, one to one style consultations, late-night shopping and an alterations facility have set the store’s customer care apart from its competitors. The store’s transactional website highlights available services, as well as new stock, while a live social media feed displaying Instagram and Facebook posts keeps visitors regularly updated with news. Owner Sally Longden is regularly nominated for awards including a recent nomination for Best Independent 2017 in the Nottingham Independents competition. The store’s e-magazine is also accessible via the website, including information on fashion trends, fitting and store news.

CHRISSY THOMAS GRIFFIN Owner of The Lingerie Lounge, Blackpool What is your current bestseller in-store? Elomi has always been a great seller for us, due to the fit. Freya is also a key brand for us. However, we have just started stocking Forever Unique swimwear and it is flying out the door. How have you found trading over the last month? This last month has been excellent for us. In this weather, ladies wear lighter clothes and are more aware of having nice underwear. This inevitably provides us with an increase in sales. With holiday season upon us, sales of swimwear have also increased as people are planning their holiday attire. What have you been doing to drive traffic in-store? Facebook is, by far, our most successful advertising platform. We display everything new that comes into the store on our page, and feature our latest sales or competitions also. What’s on your agenda for the coming month? Our new e-commerce website is due to be live this month. This has taken some effort to get off the ground but I am confident it will be a success and provide our regular customers with the opportunity to purchase from home (especially when the Blackpool weather turns cold and rainy). We are also moving to a much larger store which is closer to the town centre in September, so I will be organising the fit out. It is all very exciting!

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HARROGATE INDIE CHAMPIONS SUSTAINABILITY Harrogate independent store Violet has recently raised £500 for the charity Harrogate Homeless Project. The North Yorkshire boutique raised the donation through sales of its ethically produced organic cotton sweatshirts and bags, with five pounds from each purchase donated to the charity. Owner Sarah Shaw says, “I want to show it’s possible to have a more sustainable way of shopping. Everything the store does is thoughtfully put together. Fashion needn’t be disposable.”

Retail therapy: Share your retailing bugbears

TANYA HARDY Owner of Orchid Boutique, Louth, Lincolnshire My bugbear is that, amid all the uncertainty and challenges facing us small independents, the fierce cycle of ‘flash sales’ and discounting by major high street retailers is causing damage to brand reputation. It not only eats into margins, but is also educating the shopper to either only buy a product when discounted, or to get cheeky and haggle for money off full price items, even on brand new stock. I stick to the good old fashioned ‘end of season sale’, twice a year, being selective in giving a small reduction or ‘giveaway’ to supportive regulars, or likewise if a customer has made a substantial purchase. Customers should have to earn their discount. I, for one, would like to see an end to all these unrelenting markdowns.

FLANNELS OPENS AT MEADOWHALL Luxury retailer Flannels has opened a new store at Yorkshire shopping centre Meadowhall. The newly launched 10,000 sq ft space is located on the centre’s prominent Park Lane mall and offers a range of luxury men’s and women’s designer fashion from brands such as Vivienne Westwood, Hugo Boss, Stone Island, Belstaff and Paul Smith. This opening follows a wave of new signings, upsizes and refurbishments for the Sheffield shopping centre, including Joe Browns, Neal’s Yard, Nespresso, House of Fraser, All Saints, Hollister and Hugo Boss and forms part of a £60m refurbishment.

Q&A:

What’s your best tip for surviving trade show season?

VICTORIA REX-LEES Owner of The Women’s Society Boutique, Hertford, Herts

“Make a list of who you want to see and what you are looking for so you don’t forget anything.”

CHARLOTTE MANBY & CAROL BRADBURY

EMMA MOLYNEUX

JESSICA GORE

Owner, Experience, Fleet, Hampshire

Womenswear buyer, Accent Clothing, Leeds

“Get organised. The old adage ‘fail to plan, plan to fail’ springs to mind. I have created my own open to buy spreadsheet and stick to it rigidly. This includes size, product type, delivery window, budget etc. As I enter each buy I can see clearly how many pieces of what brand/product type are arriving and it helps me stay on budget.“

“Always plan ahead! Research what brands are going to be there and who you want to see. But make sure you leave some extra time to take a look around and enjoy the show.”

Owners of Room 7, Leeds

“Check out the brands in depth before going so you can allocate your time wisely. We take a list and star our ‘must visits’. Also remember to pack snacks in your bag; it can be a long day!”

10 -12 SEPTEMBER 2017

See an incredible line-up of occasionwear, childrenswear, prom and bridesmaid collections. Designers include Alyce Paris, Crystal Breeze, Gino Cerruti, Honor Gold, Irresistible, Jora, Mascara, Saborama, Tarik Ediz, Veromia and many more

Watch stunning collections come to life on the runway. This is a perfect opportunity for you to discover the latest trends and make the best buying decisions for the coming season

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss The Bridal Buyer Awards, where the industry will come together to celebrate the best in the industry, and watch the winners of best occasionwear, shoe, bridesmaid and prom collections be crowned

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E-tail Clinic

Essential e-commerce advice The expert view: Fashion forward thinking: making the most of the mobile marketplace Optimising an e-commerce site for smartphones and tablets can be challenging for any professional business, but especially so for fashion retailers. The typical fashion store has an array of endless options in different styles, colours and sizes, and fitting these into a mobile-friendly site can be difficult. A recent analysis from product search engine Pricesearcher.com showed that between March and April 2017, a staggering 78.75 per cent of consumers were shopping on smartphones and tablets, compared to just 21.25 per cent using desktops. This statistic goes to show just how crucial it is to perfect your mobile-friendly fashion store – without addressing the key areas such as site design, functionality, and structure, you could be inadvertently turning customers away from your business. To prevent mobile optimisation from being a laborious task, we have compiled the key steps to developing your e-commerce site into one fit for mobile customers. One of the most important aspects when creating a mobile version of your site is to keep it simple and stripped back. Given the limited amount of space available on a screen, mobile or tablet platforms are not suitable for scrolling around in search of information. Detailed and unnecessary content should be left out of the mobile version. This includes pop-up windows, which can be an annoying distraction and will be difficult to navigate out of. Whilst the site’s theme or design should still be appealing to draw in consumers, functionality should be ranked above aesthetic design. People using your site on their mobiles will be looking for easy access whilst on the go. Manoeuvring around a site may be fine when using a desktop, but can be a pain when using your device when out and about. Search bars, product filters and quick links to information such as nearby stores can be a huge timesaver. Another timesaving tip is to use a step-by-step purchasing process. In an interview for Retail Gazette, Optimizely UK country manager Marie Despringhere suggested that by implementing a step-by-step purchasing process, displaying confirmations and making options such as Apple Pay available, mobile users would be more likely to complete the purchase on their mobile devices. Design considerations should also include fonts, which need to be large and clear; a poor font choice could frustrate and ultimately drive away customers. One final, easily overlooked point is that most devices are now touchscreen with no or few buttons. Rather than using a mouse at a desk, customers must rely on the site being easy to touch and scroll their way through using their fingers. You should thoroughly check and test your site, and correct any mistakes before it goes live. Ben Morgan is Head of Partnerships at www.pricesearcher.com

50% The rate by which online purchases by UK consumers dipped by during certain key dates in the Brexit timeline over the past year, including the recent General Election. *Source: PCA Predict

+7.6% Growth in online sales across the clothing sector in May – the lowest on record. Source: IMRG

Web chat: MARTA WISNIEWSKA Owner, cashmeremoon.com When building a new online store, you are faced with three options – you can build the store yourself, build it from a template or have a company develop it for you. I opted for the template option, and I’ll share my experience and the lessons I’ve learned – luckily it’s not rocket science. The market of website templates may seem a bit confusing to start with, as there are so many template providers to choose from. In your search for a perfect provider, do bear in mind the following: • Your provider’s physical address. Do not trust just anyone: make sure these people actually exist, Google their address and if it’s a small company you are planning to work with, try calling them to have an initial chat. • Look up what other users say about their services • Browse trade forums and websites to ensure specialist opinion is positive. • If possible, opt for one of the big companies; they are the big fish and they know what they are doing. • Most companies like Wix or Shopify allow you to build a shop and test it for 14 days free of charge, no credit card number necessary. Take advantage of this offer. Play with as many templates and themes to understand which platform is most intuitive and easiest to use. Try to understand what design options are available and verify if they can be customised to meet your needs. • Check if the template is free of charge. Basic templates usually are, but if you want your store to be ahead of the competition, investing in a paid template may be a good idea. A one-off charge of £120-£160 will apply. • Check their monthly fees. In most cases you’ll be charged a monthly fee for using the platform and a small commission for each transaction (usually around 2 per cent ). The fee varies depending on the provider, • Check if the platform provider is compatible with the merchant services you use (or are planning to) like PayPal, Global Sense or Worldpay. These are the basics. If you want my personal advice, I have opted for Shopify. After hours of research, I was most satisfied with their reviews and, although I would find an odd negative one, the end-users’ opinion was very positive. Do your homework and check plenty of template providers that are out there. After all, it’s you who has to be using the template for many years to come. Play, design, select. Enjoy!

www.propress.co.uk

Fashion

Styled by Steam

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Brand Directory

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525 America 001 917 510 3036 www.525america.com Aldomartins 0034 938 054042 www.aldomartins.com Ariella 020 8883 7288 www.ariella.com Aventures des Toiles 0033 385 770303 www.aventuresdestoiles.com Badoo 0030 231 051 4100 www.badoo-fashion.gr Bianca 020 7580 0085 www.bianca.de Brakeburn 01202 338514 www.brakeburn.com Cabotine 0034 968 341 160 www.cabotine.es Carla Ruiz 0034 902 309080 www.carlaruiz.com Coral & Co 07515 587326 www.coralandco.net Crystal Breeze 020 8949 0077 www.crystalbreeze.net Eva Tralala 07770 664977 www.evatralala.fr Ellie Wilde by Mon Cheri 01954 232102 www.elliewilde.com Emreco 0345 3451914 www.emreco.com Faber 020 8441 6305 www.faberknitwear.de Fee G 00353 460 6035 www.feeg.ie Fely Campo 07850 788178 www.felycampo.com French Dressing 001 514 333 7171 www.fdjcollection.com Gill Harvey 020 7436 2882 www.gillharvey.com Gina Bacconi 020 8438 2018 www.ginabacconi.com Gino Cerruti 0870 712 0014 www.ginocerruti.com Godske 020 8504 6554 www.godske.com Irresistible by Veromia 020 8502 2257 www.veromia.co.uk James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jamelakeland.net John Charles 020 8888 8833 www.johncharles.co.uk K-Kou 01323 509799 www.mgcconsultancy.co.uk Latte 0141 204 0699 www.latteclothing.com Lexus 0034 913 690657 www.lexus.es Lighthouse 028 9079 0588 www.lighthouseclothing.co.uk Marble 01418 826743 www.marblefashions.co.uk Marie Mero 0032 9374 1171 www.mariemero.eu Mascara 020 8965 1522 www.franksaul.com Md’M 0800 612 9009 www.carolccollections.com Meisie 07725 981726 www.meisie.es Michaela Louisa 020 8888 7000 www.michaelalouisa.com Miss Etern 07850 788178 Mon Cheri 01954 232102 www.mon-cheri.co.uk NÜ Denmark 020 7702 0203 www.lovebrandsuk.com Paola Collection 01892 614000 www.paolacollection.pl Parker Smith 020 7288 8704 www.parkersmith.com Peruzzi 00353 1 4290900 www.fashionhse.com Pomodoro 020 8961 4000 www.pomodoroclothing.com Raishma 020 8552 6751 www.raishma.co.uk Rosa Clara www.rosaclara.es Ruby Sees All 0061 2 8084 1401 www.rubyseesall.com Sahara 020 7586 7171 www.saharalondon.com Saltspin 020 7388 7788 www.saltspin.com Smashed Lemon 0800 612 9009 www.smashed-lemon.com Sonia Pena 0034 952 240 368 www.soniapena.com Teresa Ripoll 07850 788178 www.teresaripoll.com Thought 020 7607 1173 www.wearethought.com Veromia 020 8502 2257 www.veromia.co.uk Verpass 01323 509799 www.mgcconsultancy.co.uk VLT’s by Valentinas 020 7288 8704 www.valentinas.it Zeila 0034 968 341 160 www.cabotine.es

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The Last Word with... Meg Cope, founder, Zaccys to go for it. Setting up my own business is by far the hardest thing I have ever done but generally I can arrange my schedule around my children’s needs so much better than before. How would you describe Zaccys? Zaccys are handmade, luxury, comfortable, versatile and flattering shoes. I like the idea of taking one pair of shoes on holiday that will take me from beach to bar, or sightseeing to dinner. We use innovative and technical materials to elevate both the quality and aesthetic of the shoes. Wedges are practical, flattering and comfortable. The signature insole – a deep layer of high-density memory foam and a breathable support all wrapped in exquisitely soft leather – features in all our shoes. The choice of nude colours, metallics, staple navy and black make the shoes very versatile. Specific design features to flatter and lengthen the leg are also pivotal to our designs. Do you design yourself or do you have a team? I design everything myself but I am constantly inspired by the conversations I have with my customers, friends, retailers and the experienced artisans that hand make our beautiful shoes.

You made the leap from eye surgeon to fashion designer two years ago following your son’s recovery from leukaemia. How did you find this transition? The transition wasn’t as dramatic as it sounds as I’d had to stop working on 14 February 2012, the day Zac, my son, was diagnosed. I had spent months soul-searching whilst I was at home and in hospital looking after him. It was an enormous decision and not one I took lightly. I missed many things from my previous world but the newfound flexibility and opportunity to spend more time with my three young children made the decision a simple one in the end.

What brands does Zaccys sit alongside, and what kind of stores are you in? I am a huge admirer of Toms. The altruistic side of our brand is certainly aligned with theirs. However, we are a luxury brand and in terms of quality we are most similar to Jimmy Choo or perhaps Stuart Weitzman. There is a genuine gap in the market for a luxury shoe that is also really comfortable. I am stocked in independent multi-brand luxury boutiques both in the UK and Greece. Part of the Zaccys philosophy is a close affiliation and contribution to various charities. Why is this important? Zaccys’ support of children’s cancer charities is at the heart of what we do. I always wanted to give something back. The support we received during Zac’s years of treatment was invaluable. The support of these charities is my way of continuing to give something back, now I am no longer practising.

What is the story behind Zaccys? I had long been searching for a replacement for a much-loved pair of slip-on espadrilles that I’d bought many years previously in Italy. Ultimately I couldn’t find the shoes I wanted to buy and wear, so I decided to make them myself. What is your personal style? I adore colour and print, so admire people who wear them During the hours and days spent in successfully. I love good denim and shirting, but a flattering and simple dress is my favourite hospital Zac and I escaped into a world outfit, paired with good shoes (of course!) and accents of colour in my jewellery. of creativity with our drawings. He loved my simple recreations of his What are the three things on your bucket list? 1. An African safari with my family. 2. Taking favourite Disney and Pixar characters. I my husband and kids back to Isfahan, where I was born. I have wonderful childhood also spent much of this time indulging memories of holidays there with my brother. 3. Visit and explore the lost city of Petra. my love of fashion and design and started designing a whole collection of Tell us something people don’t know about you. I am researching material in order to write shoes I wanted to wear, but couldn’t a book about the fascinating life of my paternal Armenian grandfather who was a find. renaissance man, a true scholar in literature and history as well as a superb physician. It was a friend and successful entrepreneur in the fashion world who What is the best piece of business advice you’ve ever been given? Stay focused and true listened to my ideas and encouraged me to yourself.

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SPRING/SUMMER 2018 Please call your local sales agent or email, to book an appointment: South East Helen Groom: 07986 434346 Wales, Midlands & North West Nick Sturmey: 07976 700312 South West Joanna Sturmey: 07792 280617 North East Susan Hardcastle: 07718 037262 Scotland Richard Kaye: 07825 187574 Ireland Jimmy Burns: 07740 794461 891 Great West Road, Isleworth, Middlesex TW7 5PD UK. Call: 020 8560 2323 Email: sales-support@adinilondon.co.uk