A FRESH LOOK AT KIDS’ FASHION, FOOTWEAR AND LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS
cwb-online.co March/April 2019 Issue 115 £9.95
Incorporating
SCHOOLWEAR BUYER:
SEASON’S REVIEW BRAND PICKS AND TRENDS FROM THE AW19 TRADE SHOWS THE BONNIE MOB HOW SUSTAINABILITY IS DRIVING INNOVATION AND GROWTH WITHIN THE BUSINESS WILLIAM TURNER 50 YEARS OF SERVICE TO SCHOOLWEAR
ph Emilio Tini
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new project: 20 22 June 2019 Firenze Fortezza da Basso pittimmagine.com special grant from
#pittibimbo #pb89
The Kid’s Lab!
CONTENTS | CWB-ONLINE.CO
CONTENTS 14
23
18
12
24
26
REGULARS
21: PLAYTIME PARIS Brand picks from the a/w 19 show
05: COMMENT
22: DOT TO DOT LONDON Brand picks from the a/w 19 show
06: NEWS 08: NCWA 10: LEGAL ADVICE 12: RETAIL THERAPY Store profiles and retail news 14: BRANDS TO WATCH Editor’s pick of brands
23: INDX KIDSWEAR Brand picks from the a/w 19 show 24: WHAT’S IN STORE FOR VELVETEEN? The brand’s latest news, including the recent opening of its first UK store
36: THE POWER OF PRINT How print has helped drive Joules’ success over the past 30 years 38: THE IMPORTANCE OF SUSTAINABILITY Kids Insights on children’s concerns about the environment and why brands need to take a sustainable approach 40: THE NEXT PHASE OF JACOB MATTHEWS Jacob Matthews, the online babywear store and brand, introduces wholesale
16: LAURA LOVES The coolest products for kids
26: BONNIE MOB’S SUSTAINABLE STRATEGY How sustainability is driving innovation and growth within the business
54: TALKING POINT Q&A with brand coach and childrenswear expert, Samia Khan
28: MANCUB The new Manchester-based men’s and boys’ fashion label
FEATURES
31: MAYORAL’S VISION AND VALUES The developments and plans for global childrenswear brand, Mayoral
46: WILLIAM TURNER - 50 YEARS OF SERVICE TO SCHOOLWEAR The latest on the third-generation family business, manufacturer and supplier of school ties and accessories
32: YOU’VE GOT MAIL KidPix, the new subscription box service for childrenswear
50: UNIFORM’S FIRST FAMILY How Stevensons is shaking up the world of schoolwear retail.
18: PITTI BIMBO A/W 19/20 Colour and trends consultant, Fiona Coleman, shares her highlights from Pitti Bimbo 20: TOP DRAWER Brand picks from Top Drawer S/S19
SCHOOLWEAR 44: NEWS
34: VEGAN FOR KIDS Vegan-friendly fashion and product for kids
FRONT COVER: ALAS DE RAYAS 0034 622 628 671 alasderayas@alasderayas.es www.alasderayas.com MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 03
LITTLE FEET WALK THE EARTH ENQUIRIES – MARK@OLDSOLES.COM.AU OLDSOLES.COM.AU
COMMENT | CWB-ONLINE.CO
COMMENT This edition of CWB will be at the printers on the speculative Brexit date of 29 March, so I will refrain from mentioning what has become the elephant in the room until there’s more clarity. Instead, I’m going to focus on a topic that offers more in the way of certainty; the future of sustainable business. The time has come where sustainable business is no longer an option, it’s a necessity. In some ways, even more so for the childrenswear industry - kids are some of the harshest critics after all. In a report this issue by the child-focused market intelligence company, Kids Insights, we take a closer look at the growing concerns children have about the environment and why brands need to take a sustainable approach to fabrics, packaging and product development. Throughout this edition there are countless other examples of companies working to minimise their environmental impact. For instance, our interview with Tracey Samuel, designer and owner of The Bonnie Mob, reveals that sustainability has become a key driver for innovation and growth within her childrenswear business. Just some of the changes made include increasing the brand’s organic offer, using recycled paper hangtags, bags made from compostable, biodegradable plastic, and introducing a new ground-breaking, sustainable printing method. Industry giants are also eager to make their efforts known. To meet the pathway set by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change to limit global warming to 1.5C, the John Lewis Partnership has pledged that all of its shops, head offices, distribution centres and UK sites will have a net zero carbon footprint by 2050 at the latest. Marks & Spencer, meanwhile, has been taking action to prevent plastic waste from going to landfill by running a plastic take-back scheme. The retailer is putting the collected plastic to good use, too, committing to recycle it into store fittings, furniture and playground equipment for schools. Amongst our schoolwear coverage we speak to William Turner, a third-generation family business, manufacturer and supplier of school ties and accessories. As well as William Turner’s 50th anniversary, managing director Daniel Turner discusses the company’s development of a range of Eco-ties made from recycled yarn - something its customers and schools are now specifying. If you’d like to share any measures you’re adopting to create a more sustainable business, please do get in touch. I have a feeling this is a topic we’ll be revisiting frequently. The next issue of CWB is the June/July edition, which marks our first look at s/s 20. Until then, you can follow CWB and all of the latest industry news via our website, social media and weekly newsletters.
Laura Turner, Editor
EDITOR LAURA TURNER laura@cwbmedia.co.uk SALES MANAGER MICHELE ALI michele@cwbmedia.co.uk DESIGNER MICHAEL PODGER podgerdesign@outlook.com REPROGRAPHICS/PRINTING IMAGE DATA GROUP LTD 01482 652323 cwb-online.co CWB is published 4 times per year by NCWA, 3 Queen Square, Bloomsbury, London WC1N 3AR +44 (0) 20 7843 9488 | enquiries@ncwa.co.uk | www.ncwa.co.uk Copyright© 2018 CWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither NCWA nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.
CWB is a fashion business publication owned and produced by The Childrenswear Association.
MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 05
CWB-ONLINE.CO | NEWS
NEWS ROUND-UP FASHION FOR KIDS TRADE SHOW RETURNS FOR SECOND EDITION
MAMAS & PAPAS TO LAUNCH IN JOHN LEWIS Mamas & Papas is teaming with John Lewis & Partners to supply a curated range of products on Johnlewis.com as well as in-store. The initial range features bestselling travel items including Mamas & Papas’ award-winning Ocarro and Armadillo pushchairs, along with the new Flip XT3. In addition to offering the full range at its Oxford Street store, a curated assortment will also be available in other John Lewis & Partners shops including the Bluewater Park shopping centre in Dartford, plus outlets in Stratford, Cardiff, Norwich, Liverpool and Glasgow. Riccardo Cincotta, executive chairman of Mamas & Papas, says, “This partnership will open up our range to a wide online audience and loyal shop customers. In time, we expect to broaden our offering into other categories such as furniture and clothing.”
SMARTPHONE NOW TOP DEVICE FOR BUYING ONLINE For the first time, shoppers are spending more money through their smartphones when accessing UK retail sites than either of the other two major device types – desktop or tablet – according to quarterly data from the IMRG Capgemini e-Retail Sales Index. In Q4 2018/19, the traditional Christmas retail quarter of November to January, the share of sales revenue spent through smartphone devices was 40.4 per cent. Meanwhile, desktop was 39.7 per cent and tablet 19.9 per cent. To give this some perspective, back in 2015 the percentage of visits coming through smartphones and tablets versus desktops was even. “This is another significant step in smartphones becoming the dominant device through which we manage so many aspects of our lives,” confirms Andy Mulcahy, strategy and insight director at IMRG. 06 - MARCH/APRIL 2019
The second edition of Poland’s new kids’ trade fair, Fashion for Kids, will return to Targi Kielce on 26-27 June 2019. Targi Kielce is one of Poland’s leading trade fair organisers and a key player in children’s products and services events. Its launch of Fashion for Kids follows the success of its international trade fair, Kids’ Time, which specialises in toys and products for mother and child. Last year’s edition of Fashion for Kids brought together companies from Belgium, Denmark, Italy, Spain, Great Britain, France and Turkey. In addition to childrenswear collections, the event also showcased complementary textile products such as bedding as well as accessories. The second edition of the fair promises an equally impressive line-up, with top childrenswear brands already confirming participation. Following last year’s example, catwalk
shows, business seminars and workshops are all planned for the two-day event. Other highlights include a Designers Zone as well as an Influencer Zone for bloggers and Youtubers. Fashion for Kids – B2B Clothes and Textiles Expo takes place on 26-27 June 2019 in Targi Kielce.
NEW BABY MOCCASIN BRAND SASS + ME
INDX KIDSWEAR ENJOYS RECORD-BREAKING AW19
Launched in February, Sass + Me offers handmade moccasins for babies in sizes 0 to 6 months up to 24 months. Created by mum of five Rebecca Crosthwaite, the soft-sole suede shoes are designed specifically for young, developing feet. The launch range features T-bar shoes and Chelsea boots in colourful designs inspired by Crosthwaite’s time spent living in East Africa. Key features include a wide and spacious fit with wriggle room for toes, enabling babies to stretch and move their feet to avoid interruptions in their foot development. The shoes’ lightweight yet firm support also ensures babies’ toes can grip the ground to support walking, balance and coordination.
Following a run of successful shows, INDX Kidswear continued the trend for a/w 19 with a 34 per cent increase in visiting buyers and a 35 per cent increase in exhibiting brands. “The event started with pre-registration figures of +20 per cent and an increase of 35 per cent of brands on show,” says event organiser, Varsha Chohan. “This is in addition to a larger space to accommodate the increase in footfall and brands. Also, 85 per cent of the brands from February 19 have already applied to return in June 19.” INDX Kidswear SS20 takes place on 30 June to 1 July 2019 at Cranmore Park, Solihull.
NEWS | CWB-ONLINE.CO
CONTINUED GROWTH FOR THE INSIGHTS PEOPLE
VANS COLLABORATES WITH MOLO Footwear, apparel and accessories brand Vans has teamed with Danish kidswear brand Molo on a collaboration that sees Vans’ footwear serve as a canvas for Molo’s vibrant prints. The collection includes a check design, an all-over horse print, butterflies, and a surfinspired design. Molo has also created an 18-piece capsule of matching apparel in prints that tie back to the Vans x Molo footwear collection. Mogens Jepsen, CEO and founder of Molo, says, “When we got the opportunity to do this collaboration with Vans and design the visual identity of its iconic shoes, it was very clear that it would be a perfect match. Both brand identities are edgy and have an urban feel.”
The Insights People, the research company behind Kids Insights and Parents Insights, has secured new client wins in both the UK and the US. In the UK, new clients include Liverpool FC, Warner Bros and Immediate Media. The firm’s US arm has also signed Crayola and Kraft Foods. To support its growth and continued work towards being the global leader in child-focused market intelligence, the company has also made three appointments. Tim Burge joins as research and trends director; Penny Wolfe will coordinate operations at the firm’s Manchester headquarters and Martin Felando joins Kids Insights US as an account director.
ETTA LOVES X COWSHED Baby lifestyle brand Etta Loves has partnered with bath and beauty brand, Cowshed, to design an exclusive muslin print for inclusion in a limited-edition gift set. Launched exclusively for Cowshed, the gift set comprises a bamboo muslin featuring a new bubble print and Cowshed’s Baby Cow Organics hair and body wash. Etta Loves designs essential baby products with patterns, scales and colours to support babies’ visual and cognitive development. Its collection includes muslin essentials and a reversible playmat, with more categories to launch later this year.
BRITANNICAL REACHES COMPETITION FINALS
H&M TEAMS WITH NATHALIE LÉTÉ ON KIDSWEAR
FREE RETURNS SEE SHOPPERS BUY MORE LONG TERM
Luxury childrenswear brand Britannical is one of eight finalists in the Smoooth Stores competition run by payment provider, Klarna. The initiative, part of Klarna’s mission to support retailers and small businesses across the UK, offers brands the opportunity to accelerate their growth. The first stage of the competition saw a judging panel including celebrities Hugo Taylor and Millie Mackintosh select the finalists. The next stage required each of the eight finalists to create a short video about their business. These videos are available to view on Klarna’s website and voting is now open to the public.
H&M has launched a capsule kidswear collection in collaboration with Paris artist, Nathalie Lété. The colourful artworks of the world-renowned artist, who works across illustrations, textiles, ceramics and paintings, feature on a range of children’s clothing and accessories. For the H&M collaboration, Lété brought to life a tropical jungle with chameleons and tigers as well as her iconic representation of flowers with cats, birds and rabbits. Pieces for babies and children include T-shirts, jackets, jeans, dresses, jumpsuits, shorts and swimsuits. Jennifer Helmer, division designer for kids at H&M, says, “The collection is playful and inviting and the pieces truly makes you feel like you’re in a botanical dream.”
Retailers who don’t offer an easy returns process are losing sales and customer loyalty according to new research by payment provider, Klarna. The research across 2,000 UK consumers in 2019 reveals 84 per cent of shoppers won’t come back to a brand if they have a poor returns experience. Furthermore, three quarters of consumers consider easy returns an essential factor in their choice of retailer. Plus, over three quarters confirm free returns mean they would buy more with a retailer over time. Done correctly, therefore, returns can be a driver of loyalty and increased customer lifetime value.
British lifestyle brand Joules is partnering with holidaycottages.co.uk, one of the leading self-catering accommodation providers in the UK. The collaboration sees Joules bring its signature style and iconic use of colour and print to 20 of the company’s properties across the UK, with the first having launched at the end of March. Joules’ input includes bedding and cushions, sofas from its partnership with DFS, as well as crockery and kitchen textiles.
Swiss toy brand Moluk has launched two new, first years lines. Driven by a passion for great design, Moluk creates innovative, gender-neutral products that invite real interaction. The new lines focus on grasping, teething and sensory stimulation for newborns and infants, however, like all Moluk toys, they also offer new possibilities when the child grows older. Moluk products are available to order via UK and Ireland distributor Little Concepts’ online B2B ordering system.
NEWS IN BRIEF Clarks has appointed Giorgio Presca as its new chief executive officer. Presca will be responsible for all operational, financial and commercial aspects of the business and will also lead the Clarks strategy with the executive committee. Born in Trieste, Italy, Presca has over 20 years’ experience in managing and developing global premium brands. In particular, he has expertise in the footwear and apparel industries.
MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 07
CWB-ONLINE.CO | NCWA
NCWA NEWS EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT I wonder what the chances are of our understanding the outcome of the Brexit negotiations, the votes in the House of Commons and more importantly, what it all means for everyone involved in childrenswear, when this edition of CWB magazine is published? No, I do not have a crystal ball, but I am sure that the environmental impact of clothing and what can be done to reduce the amount of clothing that goes to landfill will be an issue that will exercise Parliament and Government over the months and years to come. The House of Commons Environmental Audit Committee has recently published, “Fixing fashion: clothing consumption and sustainability”, its Report on the “social and environmental impact of disposable ‘fast fashion’ and the wider clothing industry”. Its recommendations, if accepted, would be far-reaching, proposing as it does a levy on all clothing sold, but there can be no doubt that sustainability and recycling, coupled with a growing concern about wage levels and labour conditions abroad in general, are issues that will have to be debated. I have said before that childrenswear is the one area where clothes are “recycled” in the sense of being passed to younger members of the family, as children grow out of them. This may happen less frequently than before, because of lower prices, quality or fashion, but I am sure it still happens both within families and through charity shops. I am also sure that school uniform is regularly handed down. We all know that there are enormous differences between fabrics, whether of natural fibres or manmade, and great variations in garment usage and disposal. But there is increasing pressure for the responsibility for the recycling of any product (not just clothing and textiles) to rest with the initial producer or importer into the country and for “fashion retailers” to “take responsibility for the waste they create”. This inevitably means that all parts of the childrenswear market would have to cope with whatever legislative burdens were placed upon the industry as a whole. Whilst it is easy to criticise those who throw away garments after one outing, it being easier (and not that much more expensive) to buy something new than to wash it, childrenswear often has to be replaced because children have a propensity to grow (and are we not grateful for that). Do think about how we might and should react to any proposals that come from Government. I am afraid this is an issue that is not going to go away, just like single-use plastic and diesel cars. It was good to meet a number of NCWA members, as well as non-members, during the recent exhibition season. I was able to visit Top Drawer, Dot to Dot London, INDX Kidswear and Bubble at Pure. I should be very interested to hear your views of the different shows and what could be done to improve both the exhibitor and visitor experience. For my own part, it was good to witness the positive attitude being taken by so many. The “Show Must Go On” spirit was refreshing to see, despite all the political and economic uncertainty. Let us hope that we shall all know what the trading situation will be very soon. If you would like to talk to me about any of the issues above or indeed anything else, please do not hesitate to contact me at NCWA, 3 Queen Square, London WC1N 3AR, tel: 020 7843 9488; info@ncwa.co.uk. If you are not a member, do look at our website, www.ncwa.co.uk. You can easily join online and membership starts at only £100 (+ VAT) per annum. Elizabeth P Fox Executive Director
NCWA COUNCIL: Chairman: MARK BARNETT, Barnett Agencies Imm. Past Chairman: SHARON BEARDSWORTH, RSB Associates Treasurer: DAVID BURGESS, David Luke Ltd — COUNCIL MEMBERS: NUALA MCKENNA Nuala McKenna Agencies Agent, DIANE SHAW Agent SARAH TAYLOR Agent, DANIELE SISMONDI Brand Stable Agent RACHEL RILEY Rachel Riley Manufacturer, EMMA-JANE ADAM Love My Smalls Ltd Manufacturer DAVID PARKER Baby Melanie Retailer President: KEN SCATES Marketing consultant Vice Presidents: LESLEY FALLON Retail consultant JACKIE COOK Retail consultant Executive Director: ELIZABETH FOX
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MORI EXTENDS OFFER WITH NEW COLLECTIONS British babywear brand MORI is launching its latest collection, Night Sky, which takes inspiration from the stars. The 12-piece, gender-neutral set for 0 to 4 years uses sustainably sourced bamboo and cotton fabric, which is both breathable and thermoregulating. The collection features two new styles: The Ruffle PJ set with frilled hem detailing and the Kimono Sleepsuit. The brand has also expanded its softest towel range with the launch of the Animal Towels collection. Designed for babies and toddlers up to three years of age, the hooded towels and bath mitts feature the characters Ellie the Hippo, Calvin the Kangaroo and Poppy the Polar Bear. There is also a new Poncho Towel with a hood and animal ears.
SMALLS EXTENDS LINES FOR 2019 British brand Smalls, which offers fully traceable merino essentials, is unveiling new additions to its range for 2019. As well as its first men’s and women’s collection, it is launching a new line of knee-high socks in cruelty-free merino for 0 to 14 years made in partnership with Collegien. Furthermore, it has an exclusive collaboration with New York-based baby and kids’ brand, Oeuf. Highlighting the importance of sustainable fashion, the limited-edition Oeuf x Smalls range features a print of planet earth on a long sleeve T-shirt for 2 to 14 years. Finally, there is also the new colourway of Alpine White.
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THE NATIONAL CHILDRENSWEAR ASSOCIATION OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND Membership is open to everyone involved in the British childrenswear industry. Associate membership, open to non-British organisations, is now available. Membership costs from £100.
NCWA | CWB-ONLINE.CO
MUSLINZ LAUNCHES NEW SPRING PRINT
FTCT DIRECTOR COMPLETES KILIMANJARO CLIMB
Baby accessories specialist MuslinZ has added a new print to its bamboo organic range. Part of the spring 2019 collection, the unisex print of abstract circles in a warm gold shade is available in the 70cm bamboo organic cotton muslin squares and the 120cm swaddles. “Our customer base definitely likes to have something new to sport with their baby products and prints are a great, low-cost way of updating a look,” says Caroline Taylor, MD at MuslinZ. “We deliberately went for a design-led print, ideal for parents seeking a more high-end look. This is following requests from our stockists who are wanting more luxurious products.”
Anna Pangbourne, director of Fashion & Textile Children’s Trust (FTCT), has completed a climb of Mount Kilimanjaro to raise money for the charity, which supports disadvantaged children whose parents or carers work in the UK fashion and textile industry. Pangbourne, who self-funded the trip, had an initial fundraising target of £5,000. However, following the climb, the total hit over £8,000. Pangbourne now hopes to raise £10,000. “Trekking to the top of Kilimanjaro was a huge achievement by Anna,” says FTCT chair, Mike Taylor. “It will help raise thousands of pounds for FTCT. The support we provide to children and families in the sector has never been in greater demand and we would like to urge everyone to support this fantastic cause.”
CHILDRENSALON #34 IN SUNDAY TIMES 100 BEST COMPANIES TO WORK FOR Childrensalon, the online retailer for children’s designer fashion, ranked 34th in the Sunday Times 100 Best Companies to Work For list 2019. Sunday Times Best Companies recognises the very best in workplace engagement in the UK, promoting the belief that by fully engaging people at work you make them feel happier, more secure and therefore more productive. “This is our second year in the prestigious Sunday Times Best Companies list,” says People Team director, Denise Hamilton. “We are so honoured and committed to continuing to work hard to make Childrensalon the best workplace it can be.” Childrensalon is family-owned and has more than 370 members of staff at its Royal Tunbridge Wells head office. Through its core motivation ‘People Before Profit’ it ensures its team progresses and feels motivated. Likewise, it promotes from within wherever possible and makes sure everyone feels valued. Childrensalon is also a Living Wage Foundation employer.
TURTLEDOVE LONDON JOINS BREITENSTEIN AGENCIES Children’s footwear and fashion agency, Breitenstein Agencies, has added kidswear label Turtledove London to its brand line-up. Turtledove London produces contemporary separates for girls and boys aged 0 to 5 years. The entire collection uses GOTS certified organic cotton as well as Azo free dyes. Seasonless in design, the brand’s gender-neutral style supports both play and comfort, with a new colour added each season to complement its monochrome aesthetics. Buyers can view Turtledove London’s collection at Breitenstein Agencies’ Chiswick showroom.
NEWS IN BRIEF Marks & Spencer is taking action to prevent plastic waste from going to landfill with a new initiative that enables customers to bring back their non-recyclable plastic packaging. Customers can drop a variety of plastic packaging in M&S’s new recycling bins. The retailer will then give the collected plastic a new lease of life by recycling it into store fittings, furniture and playground equipment for schools. Children’s outerwear brand Grass & Air has expanded its range of accessories. Highlights include Wellie Socks available in seven sizes to complement the fleece-lined wellies. There is also a new backpack featuring adjustable back straps, a convenient grab-handle, a fullylined interior and oversized organisational pockets. Grass & Air also offers colour-reveal umbrellas. Following a competitive pitch day for its retail innovation programme, JLAB, the John Lewis Partnership is now in discussions with six businesses who could transform how we shop in the future. Over 160 new start-ups and more established businesses entered the experiential retail challenge for the chance of being selected to develop their ideas with John Lewis & Partners.
MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 09
CWB-ONLINE.CO | LEGAL ADVICE
OPEN TO BUSINESS BRINGING YOU STRAIGHT–TALKING LEGAL ADVICE
Stephen Sidkin is a partner at Fox Williams LLP www.fashionlaw.co.uk www.agentlaw.co.uk
WORKING TOGETHER - CAN THE PLACE WHERE AN AGENT WORKS AFFECT HIS STATUS AS A COMMERCIAL AGENT? Commercial agents have traditionally performed their role in an itinerant manner, away from the principal’s premises (for example, by visiting customers and attending trade shows). Much of a commercial agent’s sales activities can now be performed from any location, provided that the WIFI signal and phone reception are up to scratch. However, this is not always the case. In certain circumstances, it may be convenient for the commercial agent to use office facilities at the principal’s premises. But how does this affect the commercial agent’s status, bearing in mind that independence is critical in maintaining status as a commercial agent? Towards the end of last year the European Court considered this question in a case where the agent was responsible for a specific department within the principal’s business. Its role was varied. It went beyond the normal role of a commercial agent in negotiating or concluding sales contracts. For example, the agent had a number of other managerial and after-sales roles within the department. It also had a permanent work station, telephone and email address at the principal’s premises. The agent was paid a monthly lump sum, travel expenses and commission for all of its activities. Indeed, there was no distinction made between its commercial agency role and its other activities. Crucially, the parties agreed that the agent performed its tasks completely independently of the principal. The principal terminated the agency without notice. It refused to pay damages for failure to give proper notice and an indemnity, the agent claimed. Unsurprisingly, the parties were in dispute as to whether the agent was a commercial agent. As a subsidiary point, the principal also claimed that the agent had brought its claim out of time. In reaching its decision, the European Court pointed out that to be a commercial agent a person must: • be a self-employed intermediary, and
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• have continuing authority, • [to] either negotiate or negotiate and conclude the sale and purchase of goods on behalf of and in the name of the principal. There is no additional requirement that the activities must be performed away from the principal’s premises or in an itinerant manner. So what can principals learn from this decision? In considering the case before it, the European Court was, in essence, considering the exception to the protection given to commercial agents which is set out in the Commercial Agents Regulations. Going forwards, it can be expected that (where the facts allow) principals will give greater consideration as to whether or not reliance can be had on the exception in order to avoid a claim by an agent for compensation or indemnity. It is also possible that when appointing a new agent, a principal may consider requiring the agent to undertake such activities in order to give rise to the possibility of being able to rely on the secondary activities exception at some point in the future. So what can agents learn from this decision? Commercial agents with roles which go beyond negotiating or concluding sales contracts on behalf of their principal, or who regularly use their principal’s premises or equipment, should scrutinise their written agency agreements and their working practices to satisfy themselves that they are acting independently in relation to their commercial agency activities. Irrespective of this, a failure by a terminated commercial agent to claim compensation or indemnity within the applicable time limits will result in the claim failing. © 2019 Fox Williams LLP
CWB-ONLINE.CO | RETAIL
RETAIL THERAPY We reveal our favourite independent boutiques, as well as news from the world of childrenswear retail.
SMALL STUFF 170 Crookes, Sheffield, South Yorkshire Small Stuff is a brand new, eco-conscious children’s lifestyle store in Sheffield, South Yorkshire. Prior to opening the shop in February, owner Hellen Stirling-Baker had already been running Small Stuff online for a year. However, it was running a pop-up shop in the city that led her to revaluate her business. The opportunity to talk to customers, showcase products in the flesh and share experiences of eco-conscious alternatives with likeminded parents and carers convinced Sterling-Baker she wanted a permanent store. Small Stuff offers an airy and clean space enhanced with plants and natural tones, with bright punches of colour adding a playful edge. Customers are greeted with a variety of designled goods – all eco-friendly and ethically made – ranging from homewares, dining and decor through to bikes and clothing. Brands include Banwood, Wee Gallery, Too Many PJs, Pigeon Organics, The Last Balloon, Stib, PLAYin CHOC, Ekobo and Kitpas. Tapping into the trend of independent retailers offering ‘social spaces’ within their stores,
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Stirling-Baker has incorporated an area at the back of the shop for events. There, parents, carers and customers can sit and relax with a locally sourced tea or coffee (ethically sourced cordial for kids) on a donation and honesty box basis. For younger customers, there’s also a children’s area providing a book stand and a chalk board
painted wall. The long-term vision for the social area of the store is that it not only draws the community together, but provides Stirling-Baker with the option of letting the space out for workshops, talks and private events. www.smallstuff.co.uk
RETAIL | CWB-ONLINE.CO
In December 2018, Chloe Kiss opened her family lifestyle store Lakin & Boone in Truro, Cornwall. The Scandi-inspired shop includes simple wood and metal-based décor, while a ply wood pegboard along one wall provides a focal point as well as flexibility with displays. Elsewhere, three small rails showcase a curated range of mainly gender-neutral childrenswear, all of which is organic cotton or recycled. In addition to clothing and toys, Lakin & Boone’s lifestyle offer includes books, cards, bamboo dinnerware, wall art, jewellery, blankets, play mats and puzzles, all with a strong focus on gifting. Plans for the store include a website, although Lakin & Boone recently became a Trouva boutique, which is currently providing the business with an online presence. Another aim is to increase the offer of Cornish brands children’s and adults’ clothing, plus cards and prints - in time for the summer tourists. The store’s ‘mother’ section is also set for expansion, with a focus on flexible womenswear pieces that work through pregnancy, breastfeeding and beyond.
WEBWATCH KATHRYNS www.kathryns.co.uk
NEWS
LAKIN & BOONE Unit 8, Lemon Street Market, Truro, Cornwall
Monochrome lifestyle store White Black Grey has launched a sustainable and ethical collection for babies and kids. Furthermore, the retailer has worked directly with small designers to create exclusive designs and colourways. “As a Mum myself, I understand the frustration of shopping for your little ones and being faced with a sea of pink and blue,” says White Black Grey co-owner, Samantha Drury Shore. “Monochrome, of course, is as gender-neutral as you can get.”
Liverpool-based childrenswear boutique Kathryn’s is a third-generation family business. Founded in 1975 by Paul and Doreen Tipping, the couple were later joined by their daughter and current owner, Kathryn, with Kathryn’s daughter, Emily, being the most recent recruit. The boutique first introduced a website in 2012, before launching a revamped version in September 2018. Featuring a clean and contemporary design, the new mobilefriendly, easy to navigate website includes live stock availability and same day delivery to Liverpool customers. Plus, through payment provider Klarna, its offers customers two new payment options: pay in 30 days or slice the order into three equal instalments. Plans are for the online business to evolve over time, with short-term objectives including growing the customer database worldwide as well as introducing countryspecific websites.
NEWS IN BRIEF Bygge Bo is a new Scandi-style baby concept store situated in County Meath, Ireland. The independent retailer offers a variety of nursery items ranging from car seats, pushchairs and furniture through to baby care items, gifts, toys, clothing and products for parents. Brands include Bugaboo, Cam Cam Copenhagen, Cybex, From Babies with Love, iCandy, Liewood, Sebra, Stokke and Tiba + Marl. A website is also available at byggebo.com.
WHITE BLACK GREY LAUNCHES MONOCHROME KIDS’ COLLECTION
This year, the British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) is celebrating 120 years supporting independent retail businesses. Benefits of membership include exclusive service offers, better buying terms and business support. The Association also works behind the scenes to promote the interests of independent businesses with Government. Bira is offering a special membership from £120 (ex VAT) for new sign-ups this year.
WHY AUSTRALIAN SHOPPERS FAVOUR UK WEBSITES Australian shoppers are increasingly looking to overseas websites, with 30 per cent of online shoppers making a purchase from a UK site. The findings from a study commissioned by Royal Mail also show of these shoppers, the average spend on UK websites is £39 per month. The key reasons Australian shoppers cited for shopping on UK sites were availability, a love of UK brands and price. The top three categories for online purchasing are clothes (39 per cent), books (24 per cent) and travel (17 per cent).
The John Lewis Partnership has pledged that by 2050, all of its shops, head offices, distribution centres and UK sites will have a net zero carbon footprint. Initially it is focusing on making a significant emissions reduction in the vital period of the next 10 years, which will see the company decarbonise its operations as much and as quickly as possible.
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CWB-ONLINE.CO | EDITOR’S PICK
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BRANDS TO WATCH CWB EDITOR LAURA TURNER SELECTS THE MUST-HAVE COLLECTIONS TO GET IN STORE.
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01: LISTER & BRUCE
02: FAIRE CHILD
Lister & Bruce is a new kids’ sleepwear brand that helps children dress independently. MyJamas, the debut product launch, offers 100 per cent organic cotton pyjamas with matching ankle and wrist cuffs on the left and right and a large image on the front of the top, all of which help guide children to put the garments on the right way around. The pyjamas are also OEKOTex 100 rated - meaning no nasty chemicals have been used – making them ideal for those with sensitive skin. MyJamas are available for ages 1 to 5 years. Wholesale prices on request. www.listerandbruce.com
Kids’ outerwear label Faire Child began life in September 2017 as a Kickstarter before officially launching in May 2018. The Canadian brand’s ethos is to give children the freedom to enjoy the outdoors in comfort whilst being protected from the elements. A champion of the circular economy, Faire Child uses thoughtful design, transparent sourcing and responsible production practices. Garments are completely waterproof, chemical free, use 100 per cent recycled content and are also recyclable. The brand’s trousers, jackets and hats are all made in Canada and are available for 2 to 10 years. Wholesale prices $21 to $70. www.fairechild.com
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05 03: MAIN STORY
04: WILD HEARTS WONDER
05: COTTON BOULEVARD
Main Story’s designs aim to appeal to boys, girls and parents, with the intention being the garments are worn and passed on. Collections offer modern basics created for comfort, where colour, print, cut and silhouette all play equal parts. Key pieces include GOTS certified plain core sweats that carry over seasons, printed organic cotton jersey and fleece styles, and a recent and evolving woven side to the range. All styles are designed to provide ease of movement, including wide cut silhouettes, dropped shoulders in tops and low-slung rises in trousers. Wholesale prices £12 to £42. www.main-story.com
In 2017, sisters Emily Wilton-Keely and Mairead Wright utilised their backgrounds in fashion buying and interior design to launch Wild Hearts Wonder, a clothing and interiors brand for children. Designed to evoke the wonder of childhood, the label offers distinctive and playful designs inspired by nature and wild animals. This translates into hand-painted prints across interiors and clothing. The brand’s clothing for 0 to 12 years is manufactured responsibly in Portugal using quality cottons whilst its wallpaper and fabrics are digitally-printed using eco-friendly methods. Wholesale prices on request. www.wildheartswonder.com
Cotton Boulevard launched its first collection of pure organic cotton baby clothes in November 2018 before making its debut at INDX Kidswear in February. The range offers mix and match items in muted colours and chic patterns, all manufactured at a GOTS certified factory in India. Pieces include dungarees and pinafore dresses in both fine needlecord and jersey cotton with matching T-shirts and bodysuits. Layering options of hoodies and cardigans, meanwhile, enable the range to be worn across seasons. To support small independent businesses, Cotton Boulevard offers no minimum order quantities. Wholesale prices £5.50 to £17. www.cottonboulevard.co.uk MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 15
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LAURA LOVES
SUNNY SIDE OF LONDON
REX LONDON
TY FASHION
100 per cent extra fine merino wool ‘milk’ blanket aysegul@sunnyside.london www.sunnyside.london
Animal park music box info@rexlondontrade.com www.rexlondon.com
‘Bamboo’ sequin panda backpack sales@tyuk.co.uk
TRETORN
S-C BRANDS
FABELAB
Waterproof raincoat with detachable hood rachael@unify-bp.com www.unify-bp.com
Soft plush corduroy Miffy info@s-cbrands.com www.s-cbrands.com
Play fold ship blanket info@fabelab.dk www.fabelab.dk
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FASHION FOR KIDS
2nd B2B Clothes and Textiles Expo
26-27.06.2019 Kielce, POLAND
www.fashionforkids.pl
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PITTI BIMBO A/W 19/20 Colour and trends consultant, Fiona Coleman, reveals what caught her eye at the A/W 19/20 edition of Pitti Bimbo, including six important trends for kids’ fashion.
This season’s catwalk shows featured collections from Children’s Fashion from Spain, Stefania, KidsFizz and Apartment. Additionally, Monnalisa presented a dazzling fashion event at the Palazzo Della Borsa, while Il Gufo showcased its collection at the dramatic Stazione Leopolda. Later on, Daddato hosted a catwalk party at the stunning Tepidarium Giacomo Roster featuring collections by MSGM, Neil Barrett Kids, Alberta Ferretti and GCDS Mini. Other highlights from Pitti Bimbo included a 60th anniversary Barbie display showcasing an archive of dolls alongside the launch of a new girls’ clothing line by Italian brand, Patrizia Pepe. The Emilio Pucci Junior collection was also available to view during breakfast at the historic Palazzo Pucci. While acknowledging the difficult economic climate, the mood at Pitti Bimbo was upbeat for AW 19/20, with CEO Raffaello Napoleone, stating, “The results for these three days went beyond our expectations”. In terms of figures, numbers were up on last season, with 6,400 buyers among the 10,000 visitors to the event. www.pittimmagine.com www.fiona-colemann.com
WHITENED NEON The fluro, ‘highlighter pen’ shades from the summer have been whitened for winter, creating a trend that transcends seasons something we’ve also seen across the adult collections for A/W 19/20. Yellow and green are the most popular colours for both boys and girls, with pink added as a bright pop in prints and black as the contrast colour of choice. STEFANIA
MOQUE
GCDS MINI
BOLD PLAID With a continued emphasis on heritage and varsity looks, brushed checks and genderless designs dominated the show. While 90s grunge lumberjacks were the most commercial take for this trend, they are starting to reach saturation point for kidswear. Meanwhile, upscaled checks, including tartan, looked fresh in bold colourways, something that has swiftly filtered down from the adult catwalks. OILILY
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MONNALISA
CARBON SOLDIER
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ANIMAL PRINT Showing no sign of abating, animal print appears across woven and jersey styles, footwear and accessories, with stripe trim for a sportswear twist. Leopard still reigns supreme in both classic and recoloured designs, including abstract and fantastical versions for the digital generation. Newer trends - tiger, zebra and snakeskin - were shown by a few brands, including Roberto Cavalli and Lamantine Paris. STEFANIA
MONNALISA
MSGM
COLOUR EXPLOSION High energy brights appear across all categories from baby to teen. As seen on the adult catwalks, head to toe single colour or tones of one colour are also emerging for kidswear for a more sophisticated look. In contrast, some brands are adopting the ‘more is more’ approach, re-thinking the rules by combining an eclectic array of hues and using colour in unexpected ways. DIADORA
CARBON SOLDIER
ALBERTA FERRETTI
THE PUFFA Alongside more formal, wool check coats, the puffa jacket style is the universal outerwear item of choice. Simple silhouettes are used as a colour carrier for all of the brights this season. Traditional varsity and outdoors versions from brands such as Velveteen and Woolrich feature contrast fabric yokes. Most directional is the combination of coloured metallics and styling development by Raspberry Plum. VELVETEEN
RASPBERRY PLUM
IL GUFO
SUPERSIZE TYPE Influenced by the return of bold designer logos, this important and fun graphic trend is super commercial. Graphic lettering moves away from simple branded slogans on sweatshirts to become over-sized and playful, appearing on jackets, dresses and knitwear in imaginative repeats or minimal placements. Many brands are also following the trend of adorning knit scarves with graphics, including MSGM and Oilily. UNLABEL KIDS
STEFANIA
MSGM
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TOP DRAWER CWB’s brand picks from Top Drawer S/S19, which was held on 13-15 January 2019 at Olympia London.
q JEX SHOES Jex Shoes launched its range of kids’ colour-in trainers in May 2018 and exhibited at its first trade show in 2019 at Top Drawer. The trainers come in an eye-catching box complete with seven coloured fabric pens, a keyring and a 12-page colouring-in booklet. Five designs are available, with themes including sea-unicorns and mermaids, a monsters’ meeting, comic book adventures, rainbows and hearts. Jex donates 50p for every pair of shoes purchased to the charity Sal’s Shoes, which delivers used, new and loved shoes to children in need around the world. www.jexshoes.com
t LIL & BERRY New brand Lil & Berry offers potty-training pyjamas that provide a reusable, zero-mess solution for night time accidents. Removing the stress for both parent and child, the pyjamas are eco-friendly, economical (can be washed and tumble dried over 100 times) and support a fun potty-training experience. The garments look and feel like regular pyjamas and are available in five designs, including Glow in the Dark. Matching family pyjamas are also available. www.lilandberry.com
p OLI & CAROL
u THREADBEAR DESIGN & TENDER LEAF TOYS ThreadBear Design is a new company that creates quality children’s textile gifts and toys. Highlights include a collection of children’s aprons as well as an extensive range of crafted wooden toys. All ThreadBear and Tender Leaf products are born out of a love for great British Design and to encourage imaginative and creative play. New additions include story bags and children’s furniture. www.threadbeardesign.com 20 - MARCH/APRIL 2019
Oli & Carol is a recently founded company from Barcelona that specialises in designing natural, environmentally-friendly rubber toys for babies. Made from 100 per cent pure rubber from Hevea trees, the toys are biodegradable, safe to chew and hygienic, so ideal for soothing babies’ sore gums. A wide choice of designs is available, including fruits and animals as well as geometric figures, chewable bracelets and origami boats. As well as teethers, the products also work as bath toys. www.oliandcarol.com
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PLAYTIME PARIS CWB’s brand picks from Playtime Paris, which was held on 26-28 January 2019 at Parc Floral. u MINI SIBLING The Mini Sibling collection for girls and boys features high quality, multi-functional pieces that are as easy to wear as they are to mix and match. Designs are clean and timeless in style, with each piece made using quality craftsmanship and the intention the garment be passed on. Fabrics include jersey, towelling, tricot and woven. www.minisibling.com
p ILLACONFETTI t FAUNE Barely a year old, London-based children’s nightwear brand Faune offers delicate, vintage-style design, which is inspired by late nineteenth century and Victorian shapes, colour palettes and detailing. To produce its slow fashion nightwear range for boys and girls age 2 to 10 years, Faune works with a small family-run factory in India, which prides itself on workers’ rights, equal pay and providing jobs for women. www.faune.co.uk
Defined as a sustainable and eco-friendly clothing brand, IllaConfetti is based on ethical textiles, which guarantee quality without harming the planet. With this in mind, it works mainly with natural fibres and organic cotton and with a responsible approach to textile production. IllaConfetti’s comfortable, fun clothing focuses on a bright, vivid colour palette and is inspired by fantasy, happiness and beauty. www.illaconfetti.com
u ALAS DE RAYAS New Spanish children’s fashion brand Alas de Rayas offers comfortable, colourful and fun clothing, which is locally and sustainably produced. Knitwear is central to the collections, which span 6 months to 14 years. A/w focuses on knitwear and organic cotton garments while s/s includes cotton knitted pieces, plus a swimsuit in a wide range of colours. A/w 19 highlights are unisex knitted sweaters, rompers and scarves. www.alasderayas.com
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DOT TO DOT LONDON CWB’s brand picks from Dot to Dot London, which was held on 1-2 February 2019 at The Crypt on the Green. u MABLI Designed in Wales, Mabli specialises in merino wool knits for babies and children up to 12 years. A/w 19 sees the brand continue its signature slow fashion style, with core pieces such as skinny rib essentials contrasting with Heritage Welsh Tapestryinspired jacquard garments and accessories. Mabli’s collection is knitted using machine washable, Italian-spun, 100 per cent extra fine wool, with materials and production methods focused on both safety and sustainability. www.mabli.co.uk
p WUNDERLANG Handmade in England, Wunderlang is a sustainable childrenswear collection that uses 100 per cent recycled materials such as silk, cotton and wool felt. Each design is built with a focus on simplicity as well as consideration for ease of wear and movement. Fabrics are natural, soft and breathable and each item is unique, with its own individual details. The collection is also unisex, curated by a carefully considered colour palette. www.wunderlang.com
p COMPASS KIDS New for 2019, Compass Kids is a brand of childrenswear for active kids. Functional-first, garments are engineered to ensure that they don’t restrict movement as well as being designed with details to facilitate play. Compass Kids is keen to support UK suppliers and manufacturers and, where possible, its materials are UK-sourced. Garments are made by independent Lancashire-based makers local to the brand’s studio in Blackpool. www.compasskids.co.uk
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p FIN+ZEE This spring, new premium designer kidswear brand, Fin+Zee, is launching its very first clothing range for boys aged 6 months up to 4 years. Ethically made in a small studio in London, the brand focuses on two-way designs that make dressing up fun for both parent and child. Fin+Zee garments are created for a longer wearable life, with premium fabrics such as Japanese gauze, linen, denim cotton and organic cotton jersey coupled with loose fit designs that kids can grow into. www.finandzee.com
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INDX KIDSWEAR CWB’s brand picks from INDX Kidswear, which was held on 10-11 February 2019 at Cranmore Park, Solihull. q BALLOON CHIC The a/w 19 edition of INDX Kidswear marked Greek brand Balloon Chic’s first UK trade show. Operating for over 35 years and specialising in the production of elegant, high quality childrenswear, the label has made its mark in the children’s fashion market and is positioned amongst leading companies in Greece and further afield. Founded on generations of real know-how, Balloon Chic continuously aims for quality improvement, comfort and pioneering design. www.balloonchic.eu
u BONDS Australian brand Bonds joined INDX Kidswear for a/w 19 with its unique collection of baby garments. Highlights included the iconic Bonds Zip Wondersuit alongside leggings, T-shirts and tracksuits. All garments are designed to ensure babies remain cosy, comfortable and ready for anything, from the outdoors to nap time. www.hanesaustralasia.com
t HYPE Amongst those making their show debuts this season was Hype. Established in 2011, the brand began as a self-funded project designing printed clothing and accessories. Via social networking, it has since expanded rapidly. Housing itself in the heart of the Midlands, Hype has a new premises in Leicester, which overlooks design, production and distribution in-house. Today, its collection for boys and girls age 3 to 14 years can be found stocked in stores worldwide. www.justhype.com
p MÖM(E) Established last year, Möm(e) is a new Portuguese brand that prioritises children in everything it does. The collection offers timeless, sustainable and primarily unisex designs, with skilled seamstresses and artisans lovingly creating the limited, high-quality, hand-finished pieces. To guarantee the best for children and the environment, the brand also uses ecofriendly materials. www.momeonlineshop.com MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 23
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WHAT’S IN STORE FOR VELVETEEN? Laura Egloff, founder of luxury childrenswear label Velveteen, discusses the brand’s latest news, including the recent opening of its first UK store.
Laura Turner: What’s the story behind Velveteen? Laura Egloff: After studying textile technology and design at the Fashion Institute of New York, my parents encouraged me to finish a degree in business before starting my career. Shortly after graduating, I was offered an unexpected opportunity to work in London in a role that enabled me to travel frequently to Asia. I was young and lucky to be seeing the world and meeting people from every walk of life. From London, I was seconded to Hong Kong, where I met my Swiss husband and ended up settling down to raise a family. I was on maternity leave with my second child when I took the opportunity to officially launch Velveteen. The brand was born when my lifelong obsession with fashion design and my new-found obsession with my first-born child began to intertwine. As a designer, I began to work at making her clothes as beautiful and as functional as possible. My frequent travel to India brought about an introduction to factories and local designers who were so inspiring that my husband started pushing me to bring my notebook of sketches to life with my first collection. We officially launched Velveteen in 2013 with the goal of creating a brand that empowered children to build confidence and their own form of self expression. LT: You opened your first UK store in March. What led to this decision? LE: Developing a strong retail distribution has always been our long-term plan as a means to interact with our customers on a truly personal 24 - MARCH/APRIL 2019
level. We’ve learned so much through the process and have come out so much better for it. Opening in London was also a natural next step for me, having spent several very exciting and formative years living there prior to moving to Hong Kong. We looked at a few different locations, but Notting Hill felt right for the brand DNA as well as the fact that it’s becoming a children’s fashion destination. The launch of our first flagship store in Hong Kong last year is helping us create better collections, reach our customers directly and share our vision without a filter. We had a very clear plan in place to move into a retail strategy after establishing the brand through our amazing wholesale footprint. We have a strong online presence as well, but Velveteen is about childhood experiences and we knew that brick and mortar stores would give us the ability to interact with our customers on a level that was about more than just fashion. LT: What kind of customer experience do your stores provide? LE: The stores are my way of being able to interact with our customers in a personal way, so we make sure they are more than just a shopping destination. Each store is tailored to the needs of the nearby community to provide a creative destination for children to explore. For instance, Notting Hill features a child-sized experiential workshop and lounge area where we plan to have art and craft workshops as well as movie nights and, my personal favourite, a free library and soft reading area for tiny readers so they can be entertained while mum shops and bring their favourite book home to enjoy. LT: Do you plan to open further stores? LE: The third Velveteen boutique will open in August in an amazing new location in Hong Kong. We’re really looking forward to spending time in Notting Hill and getting to know our local community, but we don’t have any plans for a second London location at the moment. However, I am a big believer in seizing unexpected opportunities when they arise, so I certainly wouldn’t rule it out.
LT: What’s your wholesale distribution? LE: At the moment, Velveteen is sold in approximately 150 stockists across 20 countries. Our largest presence is in the US, but Europe and the UK make up about 10 per cent of total wholesale sales. Within the UK we’re carried in Harrods and Alex and Alexa and look forward to continuing to grow our presence in this exciting and important retail market. LT: How would you describe Velveteen’s style? LE: The word I find myself saying over and over again when I work on the collections is “fresh”. Our style is the combination of my focus on using only proprietary, and often hand-drawn prints, a sophisticated and fresh colour palette, signature silhouettes that are uncommon in children’s fashion and artisanal detailing on every piece. While more than 95 per cent of our fabrics are made from natural fibres like cotton and silk, we’re also well known for our speciality lamé fabrics that are as soft as they are sparkly. LT: What does the collection comprise? LE: It includes around 250 total styles for infants, girls and boys aged 3 months to 14 years. With every piece, we’re focused on delivering work that is fashion forward, fits beautifully and is soft and comfortable to wear. Our infant baby bubble rompers and dresses are well loved for their perfect fit coupled with surprising details. Attention to detail is also evident throughout the boys’ collection, including contrast bindings on shorts and trousers, printed fabrics on pocket bags, plus badges on pretty much everything. Our hero pieces include a few of my favourite styles dating back several years like the incredible Eloise skort, the Alissa playsuit and the Amber dress. These are pieces that I’m more than happy to wear in a size 14 years if I can manage it. LT: What are your plans for the business? LE: I want Velveteen to continue to develop new and meaningful ways to interact with suppliers and customers. We’re also looking at how we can integrate sustainability practices into broaderreaching programmes. www.velveteenclothing.com
30 JUNE-1 JULY 2019 THE LARGEST KIDSWEAR TRADE SHOW IN THE UK
Over 200 brands
A bespoke trade show for all independent retailers
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Cranmore Park Conference & Event Centre, Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull, B90 4LF T: 0121 683 1415
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BONNIE MOB’S SUSTAINABLE STRATEGY Tracey Samuel, designer and owner of childrenswear brand The Bonnie Mob, discusses how sustainability has become a key driver for innovation and growth within her business.
amazing because it looks just like denim yet on closer inspection you can see that any ‘denim’ or worn and vintage effects have been printed on top of the fabric using eco-friendly inks. As a process Zero D Denim is clean with no pollution and the pigment dyestuffs are harmless. Given that it’s only dyed on one side, there’s no residue left touching children’s skin either. It also uses over 90 per cent less water than mass market indigo dyeing and any wastewater it does produce is used to irrigate the factory’s vegetable garden. We’re really proud to be the first brand to introduce this ground-breaking method to the kids’ market.
Laura Turner: What are The Bonnie Mob’s latest eco-friendly developments? Tracey Samuel: For a/w 19 we have increased our organic cotton offer, which can now be found in all of our jersey, sweatshirt and denim, as well as in some knitwear. All of the cotton is approved by the Better Cotton Initiative. This ensures fair payment terms and investment in education for farmers to help them improve their yield and use water more efficiently. With the help of our suppliers we are now working extremely hard to move 100 per cent of the collection to certified organic cotton. LT: You’re also introducing a new sustainable printing method? TS: Yes, it’s called Zero D Denim. When I first heard about it, I had to visit the factory to investigate and see it in person. It’s
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LT: What other steps have you taken to reduce the impact of your brand? TS: We use no harmful dyes, all of our hangtags are now made using recycled paper and we only use compostable, biodegradable plastic bags. Plus, we use the highest-quality ethical manufacturers. I always visit the factories we work with to make sure they take care of their employees. For us, it’s vital that all staff are treated fairly and there are strict safety standards in place. We also use fully-fashioned machines which, despite meaning the knitting process takes longer, help us to reduce waste as we only have to knit the shape of the garment needed. Equally, although it takes much, much longer, we always have our bulk production delivered to our warehouse by boat rather than air because it has a much lower environmental impact. LT: Do you communicate sustainability to your consumers? TS: We recommend that our knitwear and cotton clothing be washed at 30 degrees, thus saving energy and being kinder to the environment. We also hope to start encouraging customers to send their old Bonnie Mob clothes back to us so that we can recycle or donate the garments to charity. Knitting is an artisanal skill and one that we need to appreciate more as consumers. A good, fully-fashioned knit should last a long time; it needs to be loved and handed down and worn again and again. It’s certainly not throwaway fashion.
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LT: Would you ever consider using recycled materials? TS: Yes, we’re always on the lookout for more sustainable and recycled materials, as long as we can verify that the sources and production are in line with our ethics. LT: Are there any sustainable brands or businesses you find particularly inspiring? TS: I’m a big fan of Rapanui, the Isle of Wight-based women’s and menswear brand. It really is leading the way in sustainable fashion. LT: You teamed with Bobux on a footwear collection for a/w 19. Are collaborations something you plan to do more of? TS: We would love to collaborate again in the future, whether that’s with Bobux or another brand altogether. It’s so exciting to see two creative brands unite and come up with a brand-new product. With Bobux the partnership felt completely right as both brands are family-run and we share values of craftsmanship, technical innovation and quality. We also have the same brand ethos of ‘letting kids be kids’. LT: Do you have a UK agent? TS: No, not at the moment, we handle all UK sales directly. However, we’re developing a very commercial NOS and TBM Classic collection (launching very soon) so we will be looking for UK agents to get behind this new division. LT: How many stockists do you have? TS: We currently have 25 UK stockists, plus 20 web-only stores. Internationally we have nearly 200 stockists and work exclusively with distributors in Hong Kong, China and Korea. LT: Where are you looking to next for growth? TS: We have just taken on a new agent in Italy and Germany and we are looking for agents in Benelux, Japan and Canada. From a product point of view, look out for a new ‘never out
of stock’ range of baby gifts and basics. Designed in organic fabric with a Bonnie Mob twist and sold with a gorgeous gift box, the range is available on short order for stores who want a continuous selling product. LT: Can you give us any hints to the inspiration behind your s/s 20 collection? TS: Ah, that will have to remain top secret I’m afraid. However, you can be sure to see a lot of colour, rainbows, fun characters and playful designs. LT: What are your main objectives for the brand this year? TS: We’re excited to share Zero D Denim and can’t wait to hear people’s thoughts on it. We’re also hoping to raise even more money for Refugee Support with our charity knitwear collection this a/w. So far, we’ve donated £15,000 to the organisation, which has been used to deliver aid with dignity to mothers and their children living in several refugee camps across Greece. In a world of fast fashion, our commitment to sustainability and manufacturing in a way that is environmentally friendly is more important than ever. We want to be sure to leave a better world for our children. If there is an ecological way of doing something, we will always choose that path over profit. www.thebonniemob.com
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MANCUB – THE HOME OF FATHER AND SON CLOTHING Dominique Morton discusses the concept behind her new Manchester-based men’s and boys’ fashion label, ManCub, as well as her plans for wholesale.
Laura Turner: How did you get into the fashion sector? Dominique Morton: In 2016 I left my job as a medical sales rep to invest in a young fashion brand. After 12 months it was time to move on; the brand wasn’t growing as quickly as I’d have liked nor in the direction I wanted it to. However, I knew that fashion was is my blood and I loved the fast-paced ecommerce market. I realised I wanted to create a brand of my own, one that people would remember, understand and want to be part of. Retail is a crowded market, so I knew I’d have to do something different to engage with customers and not just become part of the noise.
thing entirely expecting him to do it in yellow tie-dye. For this reason, the first collection is what I’d define as ‘subtle every day style’. It has a real Manchester feel in tribute to the city where ManCub was born. It’s street-inspired, yet very wearable. In terms of pieces the collection comprises T-shirts, long sleeve tops, jackets, joggers and jumpers, with no bright colours or bold prints. Not yet, anyway.
LT: How did you reach the idea for ManCub? DM: The idea for ManCub was conceived in Dubai in 2017, born in Manchester in September 2018 and is now growing fast. The initial lightbulb moment came when I bumped into an old school friend in the airport en route to Dubai. Her husband and son were wearing trendy, matching outfits and they looked amazing. After some research, I was shocked to find no retailers were really catering for the father and son twinning market. There is plenty of ‘cheese’ out there – half pint and full pint matching T-shirts, for instance - but nothing for the modern, style-conscious dad. Enter ManCub.
LT: Who is your target customer? DM: Good question. Obviously, we have dad, but there’s also mum buying for dad, the godfather, uncle or dad’s mate who values ‘cub’ as his wingman. Then there’s the gift buyer; think dad’s birthday, Father’s Day, Christmas, Valentine’s Day, the list goes on. Whoever the customer is, one thing’s for sure, ManCub is an emotive purchase. A customer might not specifically be looking for it, but when they come across ManCub, they’ll want it. Then once they are in the ManClub, they’ll come back for more.
LT: How do you define the brand concept? DM: ManCub is more than just clothes. It’s a visible statement of a connection, that special bond between ‘man’ and ‘cub’. It’s ‘style inherited’. LT: How have you found the balance of catering for the tastes of both men and boys? DM: Unquestionably, it’s one thing asking a man to go out matching with his ‘cub’, it’s another
LT: What’s the size and age range? DM: For Man, sizes are S, M, L and XL, with XXL coming soon following popular demand. Cub sizes start at six months and go up to six years of age.
LT: What is the ManClub? DM: That’s secret. It’s a very private club. You’ll have to join to find out… LT: Do you have plans to expand the collection into other product areas? DM: Absolutely. Shoes, swimwear and jewellery are already on the cards. LT: What are your plans for wholesale? DM: I’d like to see ManCub in bricks and mortar stores on the high street. It’s important
for me to get the word out. Customers that have bought from our website always feedback on how impressed they are with the quality of our clothes. It’s important to me that the range is showcased so that customers can touch, feel and try the items on. We’re keen to attracts a range of stockists, from independent kidswear and menswear boutiques through to lifestyle and department stores. My ultimate dream is to see ManCub in Selfridges. LT: Are you approaching both UK and international stockists? DM: Yes, we’ve had a lot of website traffic from the USA, so I’m hoping to secure some stockists on that side of the pond. LT: Do you have plans to show at any trade shows in 2019? DM: No, not this year, hopefully in 2020. LT: Does ManCub have a website and social media? DM: Yes, our website is man-cub.com and our Instagram and Facebook handle is @mancub_uk. We do some work with influencers, so you’ll see a lot of familiar faces on our page. LT: What are the short and long-term plans for the brand? DM: ManCub will champion cool dads and active fatherhood, creating a trend but also inspiring more men to join the movement. The aim is to ensure all men and ‘cubs’ wanting to match up can do so in style. I think ‘ManCub The Home of Father and Son Clothing’ has a nice ring to it. www.man-cub.com MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 29
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PROFILE | CWB-ONLINE.CO
MAYORAL’S VISION AND VALUES The latest developments and plans for global childrenswear brand, Mayoral.
Since its inception, Mayoral has always been a family-owned business, a fact crucial to the principles that continue to guide the leading childrenswear company today. That, and a focus on ethical and social responsibility. Building on its modest origins in 1941 producing and marketing socks and stockings, the company is now a major international group representing Spanish fashion worldwide. In fact, Mayoral is the leading brand for childrenswear in the Iberian Peninsula. It is also one of the most important groups specialized in children’s fashion in Europe, with turnover forecast to reach €356 million in 2019. Today, the Mayoral Group designs, produces, markets and distributes children’s fashion in over 100 countries through a sales network of 20 branches, 250 sales agents and directly operated stores. The company began building its network of Mayoral stores back in 1997 and now has a total of 230, 175 of which are in Spain, with the remainder located internationally. With a consistent growth rate of 10 to 15 new own-brand stores opening each year, they remain an integral element of the company’s growth. Another part of Mayoral’s winning strategy is to promote its designs and brand with “personality”. This is in addition to providing customers with a well-balanced product that is fashionable, price conscious and of the highest quality. Furthermore, by introducing 3,000 unique styles each year, Mayoral ensures its 10,000 clients worldwide are constantly receiving fresh and exciting designs.
MAYORAL’S NEW IDENTITY In 2018, Mayoral launched a new corporate image, a reflection of the rapid growth the company has experienced in recent years. The new brand logo includes a symbol – a cloud shape in the letter “o” of Mayoral – which as well as adding the aforementioned ‘personality’, reinforces brand identity and helps generate consistency. The aim of the new image is to convey everything the firm has built up until now. It also provides room for continued growth, delivering the flexibility to accommodate future
fashion trends, applications in digital media and to connect with the brand’s young audience. Key developments will continue into 2019 with Abel & Lula, Mayoral Group’s new brand targeted at the premium childrenswear sector, launching into 37 countries. This year also marks the opening of a new distribution centre to support the company’s long-term expansion plans. Known as Mayoral 2, the facility will cover an area of 27,000 sq m. Formerly belonging to Intelhorce, a historic textile factory in Malaga, the new distribution centre includes an elegant and monumental industrial main building.
SUCCESS BASED ON SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Alongside its efforts to secure continued success Mayoral balances equal focus on social responsibility, both to its local community and worldwide. Its policy is based on four fundamental principles. Firstly, commitment to its staff. Also, commitment to society through membership of several non-profit local organizations, together with participation in social activities. Mayoral is also dedicated to
respecting the environment, frequently adapting sustainable policies and consistently making efforts to minimize pollution. Finally, the company’s commitment to suppliers – suppliers that must comply with Mayoral’s code of conduct guaranteeing fair labour conditions. Further evidence of Mayoral’s social and ethical responsibilities can be seen is its joining of the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI). This leading alliance of companies, trade unions and NGOs promotes respect for workers’ rights around the globe. Mayoral is also one of 170 apparel corporations from 20 countries in Europe, North America, Asia and Australia to have signed The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh. Rafael Domínguez de Gor, fourth generation in the family business and the current president of Mayoral, has a very simple motto when it comes to business and the continued success of Mayoral: “Our goal is being better rather than bigger. The second comes along with the first one.” The results, it seems, speak for themselves. www.mayoral.com MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 31
CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW
YOU’VE GOT MAIL Katya Pogudina and Sian Evans met in 2005 whilst interviewing at St Peter’s College, Oxford. As the only two girls accepted to study economics and management, their friendship was arguably a foregone conclusion. In September 2018, the duo combined their business acumen to co-launch KidPix, a new subscription box service specialising in independent baby and childrenswear brands. CWB’s Laura Turner learns more.
Laura Turner: What led yourself and Sian to co-found KidPix? Katya Pogudina: After graduating, Sian and I both moved to London where our friendship grew stronger, as did our passion for fashion, technology and entrepreneurship. After several years working in business development, sales and marketing across multiple sectors including technology, law and logistics, we decided to set up KidPix. LT: What was the inspiration for the business? KP: My daughter, Maria, and her two main passions in life: dressing-up and receiving parcels through the post. KidPix combines the luxury of personal styling with the convenience of subscription-based home shopping, giving time-poor parents a new way to shop for their
little ones. It also solves problems associated with high street and online shopping - no more tantrums whilst navigating the local department store and the guarantee that items don’t just look great in photos online, but feel great in person, too. LT: How does KidPix work? KP: Essentially, we offer subscription and gift boxes. Following a short style quiz taking into account the child’s age and sex as well as budget and colour preferences, the client receives a box filled with six to eight boutique brand items. These range from T-shirts and dungarees through to dresses and winter coats. Currently we cover newborn to five years, but we will be expanding up to 12 years later in 2019. The best bit? The client is only charged for
the items they want to keep and returns are always free. Customers can also choose how regularly they want to receive their boxes, with most opting for the quarterly subscription so that they have new clothes arriving each season. In terms of target audience, KidPix is really for everyone. If you are a parent, grandparent, god parent, friend, colleague or anyone else who has little people in their life, KidPix is for you. LT: What’s the criteria for the brands you work with? KP: We work with independent designers that are either completely new to the UK market or that are already here, but looking to grow. We are so lucky to be working with some incredible businesses who are talented, hardworking, fun and most importantly, passionate about what they do. Some of the brands we have are exclusive to 32 - MARCH/APRIL 2019
INTERVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO
years, irrespective of their impairment or condition. LT: Do you trade internationally? KP: Our subscription boxes are available in the UK only, but we do ship the gift boxes globally. Since launching last year we’ve delivered boxes to Ireland, France, Canada and the US. LT: Is it just kids’ clothing you cover? KP: We love all things fashion, but our focus is very much on clothing. We do offer socks, tights and accessories to complete the looks we create for clients, but we don’t currently have plans to expand beyond that.
KidPix in the UK, such as DarcyBow and Quinti Baby. We also work with a handful of more established brands that are keen to expand their presence in the market including Scarlet Ribbon, Little Borne and Dotty Dungarees.
We have a standard gift range on our website kidpix.uk. Clients who prefer something more unique can contact our team of stylists directly who will happily hand-pick a custom box based on their budget and style preferences. We also offer KidPix gift cards.
LT: Do you have any initiatives to support the independent labels you work with? KP: We are really passionate about promoting independent brands. We try to support them as much as we can by advising them on their strategy, pricing, social media presence and generally raising their profiles through trade shows. For example, we recently published Pitti Bimbo and Playtime Paris overviews, which are free to access on our website.
LT: KidPix customers can also make a charitable donation with their purchase? KP: Yes, we’ve partnered with the fantastic disabled children’s charity, KIDS (kids.org.uk). This means that every time a customer completes a purchase on our website they are given the option to make a donation to KIDS. We then match every donation. KIDS supports over 15,000 disabled children, young people and their families every year. There is no other organisation dedicated to providing such an extensive range of services to disabled children and young people aged 0 to 25
LT: Can KidPix boxes also be gifted? KP: Absolutely, a KidPix box is the perfect gift.
LT: Does KidPix have social media? KP: We are on Instagram @Kid_Pix and Facebook @KidPixUK. Social media is a fantastic tool for us as it allows us to communicate with our client base and better understand their needs. We use social media to get feedback on new collections, find models for upcoming photoshoots, answer any questions about our services and some clients even like to place orders via DMs on Instagram. We also use influencers to broaden our reach on Instagram. We’ve been lucky to work with some inspiring and professional people who still support and follow the brand long after our partnership has finished. LT: What are the plans for the business? KP: This spring we are thrilled to be launching a KidPix marketplace where our clients will be able to buy directly from independent designers on an item-by-item basis. We’ve invited lots of our favourite designers to join the marketplace and we are so excited to launch – expect a huge variety of styles and price-points. www.kidpix.uk MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 33
CWB-ONLINE.CO | PRODUCT
VEGAN FOR KIDS Vegan-friendly fashion and product for kids.
t DYNUR Philadelphia kidswear brand, Dynur, aims to help children express their natural born instinct for compassion. Drawing on its Swedish roots, it offers simple, high quality sweaters, beanies and rompers in 100 per cent organic and fair trade cotton. Prints are created using 100 per cent plant-based, biodegradable, OEKO-TEX Standard approved inks and celebrate animals exploited for human use and consumption. www.dynur.com
q ZELLIE Available via Hippychick, Zellie’s collection of changing bags includes the Woburn, a vegan leather style available in classic black. The Woburn includes 14 pockets and compartments - open, zipped and insulated – as well as a padded changing mat, two pram straps, one long padded shoulder strap and an extra zipped, removable pouch. www.hippychick.com/zellie
p PLAYIN CHOC Bronze winner in the 2018 Junior Design Awards for Best Eco Toy Design, PLAYin CHOC cubes contain one of a range of eco-friendly toys for kids to collect, assemble and learn about. As well as a toy - made from 100 per cent recyclable card and paper - the cubes also contain two organic vegan chocolates wrapped in home compostable film. www.playinchoc.com
34 - MARCH/APRIL 2019
p PINK LINING Changing bag brand Pink Lining is introducing a capsule collection of vegan leather available in two styles: The Shoreditch backpack and the Hoxton cross-body, both available in black or grey. The bags also come with a choice of straps as standard. A black vegan leather stroller organiser is also available. www.pinklining.com
PRODUCT | CWB-ONLINE.CO
t VIVOBAREFOOT Barefoot footwear company, Vivobarefoot, is collaborating with animal conservation charity The Aspinall Foundation to help raise awareness of endangered animals. The collaboration introduces four new colourways to two of Vivobarefoot’s most popular kids’ ranges: Mini Primus Kids, a vegan shoe made from recycled PET, and the Ultra Bloom made from 10 per cent Bloom Foam from harvested algae. www.vivobarefoot.com
q TOMMY AND LOTTIE Unisex, ethical and sustainable children’s lifestyle brand, Tommy and Lottie, is launching PETA certified vegan sweatshirts made from organic cotton for both children and adults. The brand uses printing techniques such as embroidery or screen print as well as water-based, vegan-friendly inks, which are better for the environment with no plastic transfers. www.tommyandlottie.com
p INFANTIUM VICTORIA PETA awarded Infantium Victoria is a design-driven childrenswear label that is both wearable and avant-garde. It uses only sustainable, vegan materials alongside a variety of organic cotton textiles, including fleece, velvets and corduroy as well as exclusive woven material. The brand strictly adherences to the highest standards of manufacturing, using only organic cotton and low-impact dyes in 100 per cent GOTS certified factories. www.infantiumvictoria.com
t PEDIPED Children’s footwear brand pediped® was one of the first brands to launch a vegan collection in Europe and has a large percentage of vegan shoes in its collection. Sticking with its brand mantra of creating comfortable and stylish shoes that are healthy for kids’ feet, the design team ensures no animal bi-products are used in the manufacturing process. The vegan collection is also machine washable. www.pediped.com
p WILDCHILD LONDON Focusing towards a more sustainable fashion future, kidswear brand Wildchild London continues to use chemical free inks as well as vegan-friendly, GOTS certified organic fabric. Its five-piece s/s 19 collection for 2 to 9 years includes T-shirts, joggers and a dress. All of the garments are made in Britain, working closely with skilled homegrown manufacturers to ensure ethically produced, premium quality garments. www.wildchildlondon.co.uk
MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 35
CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW
THE POWER OF PRINT CWB meets Laura Douglas, director of design at premium lifestyle brand Joules, to discuss the integral role print has played in differentiating the business and driving its success over the past 30 years.
concept to market. After a stint travelling, I came back to my home town and was offered a job at Joules. I’ve been here for nearly 14 years, which sounds like an eternity, but the business has progressed so much since then that it feels a lot less. Each year has been so different. This year we’re celebrating the business’s 30th birthday, so it’s been fantastic to take stock of how far the company has come during that time. LT: What inspires you as a designer? LD: As a business, our customer is what inspires us. Personally, I’d have to say it’s always the thrill of uncovering an unexpected find. I like visiting flea markets and buying art. I recently purchased a beautiful portrait of a gentleman who was the spitting image of my grandfather. The colours are going to inspire my new kitchen.
Laura Turner: What does your role as Joules’ director of design entail? Laura Douglas: My job is incredibly varied due to our broad product mix. I could be looking at new sofa designs with DFS in the morning, then spend the afternoon discussing the merits of our newest print on babywear. I love my job and for me the best bit is working with such an incredibly talented design team. Each season brings with it a new set of challenges and I see it as my job to ensure that we remain true to the brand and its values. Laura Turner: How did you get into design? LD: I studied fashion marketing at Northumbria University, which gave me a good grounding in product design and bringing 36 - MARCH/APRIL 2019
LT: Joules is well-known for its prints. To what extent has print helped differentiate the brand from its competitors? LD: It has been instrumental in differentiating the business and driving the brand’s success over the past 30 years. Other brands in our market have shied away from using bright colours and bold prints in the past, but more recently there has definitely been a shift. Our biggest challenge when looking forward at the next 30 years is choosing how we use print in new and imaginative ways. LT: How has the brand’s use of print evolved over the last 30 years – particularly for kidswear? LD: Joules has always had a distinctive style and it has undoubtedly evolved over the past 30 years to be what it is today. It’s a careful balance of combining content that is right for us as a brand with things that kids just love. When we started, our prints were much more graphic and simplistic. Over the years this has evolved to include more conversational content and of course, our signature florals.
INTERVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO
“ THIS YEAR WE’RE CELEBRATING THE BUSINESS’S 30TH BIRTHDAY, SO IT’S BEEN FANTASTIC TO TAKE STOCK OF HOW FAR THE COMPANY HAS COME DURING THAT TIME.”
LT: What considerations go into creating a print? LD: We approach mood slightly differently at Joules and use a customer-first approach. We are less concerned with trends and more focussed on what our customer is doing and his or her needs. Our kidswear ranges are a good example of this: last season we used the Lake District as our inspiration and the incredible work of Beatrix Potter. Not only was she an author and illustrator, but she was also a fierce conservationist, passionate about preserving a way of life that is still present in The Lakes today. LT: How are prints used across the kidswear collections? LD: The team are constantly challenge themselves when it comes to how we apply print and pattern. Every season we reimagine not only how we use print, but also how we weave the novelty
elements that support our stories into the actual products. LT: What would you highlight as the brand’s most popular kidswear prints over the years? LD: Definitely our farm prints. These are key to who we are as a brand. Our horse prints would be another, they are reimagined every season to incorporate a more traditional country narrative. LT: What are Joules’ key kidswear prints for 2019? LD: On girls we have introduced a story called ‘The Artist’ based on Beatrix Potter, using her beautifully ornate, illustrative style to inspire our florals. We also used her love of nature to steer our fun takes on graphics, sparkly ducks and horse intarsias, to bring a sense of mischief to the range. LT: What else can we expect from Joules’ kidswear? LD: Knitwear has been a huge focus for us this season. We have explored new techniques and broadened the range extensively to support the strategy. It looks fantastic. LT: This year marks Joules’ 30th anniversary. How is the company marking the milestone? LD: Our 30th year is all about making memories. The idea came after the company’s founder, Tom Joule, was rooting through some old photographs of his time on the country shows circuit. There were some amazing shots of him and his mum and it spawned the idea of how photos can bring back such wonderful memories. We thought inviting our customers to share their own photographs with us would be a great way to engage with them and see the sort of antics they get up to whilst wearing our clothes. The images that have been shared are such beautiful snapshots in time and we have loved receiving them. Here’s to the next 30 years. www.joules.com MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 37
CWB-ONLINE.CO | REPORT
THE IMPORTANCE OF SUSTAINABILITY Kids Insights discusses children’s growing concerns about the environment and why brands need to take a sustainable approach to packaging, fabrics and product development.
This generation of children is becoming more environmentally aware, which is influencing their approach to packaging, recycled fabrics and sustainability. Kids Insights’ data shows that one in three children now thinks about the effect of their actions on the environment regularly, which is an increase from one in four at the start of 2018. This increasing importance of eco-friendly credentials will undoubtedly affect kids’ buying decisions in 2019. Excessive plastic packaging and production materials are growing concerns for parents and families, which is leading manufacturers to opt for sustainable product development in a shift towards goods that cause less harm to the environment. Over the last few years, fast fashion has dominated the spending habits of under 18s, with this age group naming brands such as ASOS, Boohoo and PrettyLittleThing as their favourite shops. However, that could be about to change as kids become more aware of the environment and, consequently, look to end the single-use nature of fast fashion. 38 - MARCH/APRIL 2019
Over the last year, we’ve seen mainstream consumers become more concerned about plastic usage, forests and meat alternatives, all of which are causing them to change their buying habits. Fashion is now starting to face the same scrutiny.
OUR DATA SHOWS THAT FAST FASHION IS ALREADY FALLING IN POPULARITY High street fashion chains have already reported a decline in sales and our data shows that some of the most popular clothing retailers lost momentum in 2018. New Look has halved in popularity since this time last year, decreasing from 14.4 per cent to 7.2 per cent. The chain suffered a 5.7 per cent decline in like-for-like sales in December and made a debt-for-equity proposal recently in order to cut its debt by £1bn. Whilst clothing and fashion are still generally popular, with 13 to 18-year-old girls telling us they are their second and third highest spends, our data shows New Look wasn’t the only
big name to suffer last year. Topshop also fell in popularity, with only 5.8 per cent of 13 to 18-year-old girls naming it as their favourite store. This is a fall from 7.2 per cent at the start of 2018. Meanwhile, H&M’s popularity almost halved from 5.2 per cent to 2.7 per cent. Primark, however, managed to defy the trend. Its popularity actually increased from 14.7 per cent this time last year to 18.2 per cent, with 13 to 18-year-old girls naming it as their favourite shop. Online stores have seen a fall in sales too, with ASOS issuing a profit warning in December. Whilst ASOS remains the second favourite online shop of 13 to 18-year-old girls, with 9.1 per cent telling us it’s their favourite store, it has dropped in popularity this year, falling from 10 per cent at the start of 2018 to 9.1 per cent. Fellow fast fashion retailers Boohoo, PrettyLittleThing and Missguided saw even more significant declines in popularity, with the latter more than halving in popularity from 3.2 per cent to 1.4 per cent.
REPORT | CWB-ONLINE.CO
CONCERNED KIDS USE TECHNOLOGY TO SPREAD THE MESSAGE More children than ever are using technology, which is helping them to connect and share their environmental concerns quicker than ever before. The average child in the UK now owns their own mobile phone from the age of 11, plus a quarter of children aged 10 to 13 are on Instagram. Kids are using this new wave of technology and platforms to connect with like-minded children, spread the message and get organised. An example of this can be seen in the thousands of pupils who walked out of school in February to raise awareness about their growing climatechange concerns. Technology is being actively used to take action too, with fashion bloggers using secondhand apps such as Depop as part of their environmental concerns about fast fashion. New app reGAIN, which offers discount codes in exchange for clothes being recycled, is also popular with eco-conscious consumers. According to our data, the Depop app is currently most popular with teenage girls and is used by 6 per cent of 16 to 18-year olds. Upcycling is also becoming a popular way of giving new life to old products. H&M has launched workshops and guides to help consumers repair their products and make them last longer. Additionally, brands such as Walkers and Adidas have recently launched high-profile projects to make their core products more environmentally friendly. Manufacturers who opt for sustainable product development and make a shift towards products that cause less harm to the environment should prove popular with those families that are worried about excess production materials.
FAVOURITE SHOP (7-12 YRS)
FAVOURITE SHOP (13-18 YRS)
SHOP % FAV
SHOP % FAV
GAME 7.5%
PRIMARK 10.2%
SMYTHS TOYS 7.0%
TESCO 7.5%
TESCO 5.4%
GAME 7.3%
PRIMARK 4.5%
JD SPORTS 5.3%
POUNDLAND 3.7%
NEW LOOK 3.7%
JD SPORTS 3.5%
TOPSHOP 3.0%
CLAIRE’S ACCESSORIES 2.6%
NEXT 2.4%
THE ENTERTAINER 2.4%
HMV 2.2%
ASDA 2.2%
POUNDLAND 2.2%
NEW LOOK 2.1%
SPORTS DIRECT 2.2%
BRANDS FACE A PACKAGING CONUNDRUM As explored in our Future Forecast report, we are seeing conflicting trends arising with packaging. On the one hand, brands are looking to produce more environmentally friendly packaging amidst growing concerns about plastic and waste. Reducing packaging waste would be a logical and easy step. With a third more children shopping online now than 18 months ago, it reduces the need for the attention-grabbing, retail-friendly packaging you see in stores. On the other hand, our data tells us that the unboxing phenomenon is showing no signs of slowing down. In fact, unboxing continues to grow in popularity with seven-to-nine-year-old boys, rising from 9 per cent last quarter to 15 per cent this quarter.
KIDS INSIGHT UK Kids Insights specialises in research and insights on kids and their ecosystems. It surveys 400 kids, tweens and teens every single week and its real-time portal is continually updated to allow its clients to spot the latest trends before their competitors. Its insight-led reports are produced by some of the top kids’ researchers in the UK, seeing the company short-listed for a number of start-up and innovation awards. For more information on Kids Insights, a sample report and a demo of its awardwinning portal, visit www.kidsinsights.co.uk/cwb or call the team on 0330 159 6631.
73-75 Lever Street, Manchester, M1 1FL or call +44 (0) 330 159 6631
This means that manufacturers and retailers have an interesting decision to make. They can either reduce packaging and win over consumers with their environmental credentials, or, they can develop a more experiential relationship with packaging that utilises it as part of the product experience. Businesses have the power to influence the next generation. They can strategically benefit from the awareness of serious issues that are building in younger age groups by gaining consumer trust and all-important brand advocacy. Listening to young people is important. Kids Insights has the most comprehensive and dynamic data, insights and answers about the buying habits and mindset of the next generation of consumer. To download a report and explore this topic further, visit www.kidsinsights.co.uk/cwb
“ THIS INCREASING IMPORTANCE OF ECOFRIENDLY CREDENTIALS WILL UNDOUBTEDLY AFFECT KIDS’ BUYING DECISIONS IN 2019. EXCESSIVE PLASTIC PACKAGING AND PRODUCTION MATERIALS ARE GROWING CONCERNS FOR PARENTS AND FAMILIES, WHICH IS LEADING MANUFACTURERS TO OPT FOR SUSTAINABLE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT IN A SHIFT TOWARDS GOODS THAT CAUSE LESS HARM TO THE ENVIRONMENT.”
MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 39
CWB-ONLINE.CO | PROFILE
THE NEXT PHASE OF JACOB MATTHEWS Successful online store for designer babywear and eponymous baby brand, Jacob Matthews, is expanding into wholesale. CWB’s Laura Turner learns more.
Headquartered in the market town of Ormskirk, West Lancashire, Jacob Matthews is a thriving online retailer and babywear brand co-founded and co-owned by Matthew Sharratt and his partner, Hannah. The business has seen rapid growth in its two- and half-year existence, with the store’s extensive range of classic and timeless babywear attracting an avid following. Jacob Matthews began as an experimental concept back in 2016 when Sharratt was working for a womenswear ecommerce business. Involved in various roles within the company, he gathered experience across the entire process. It was during this time that he began toying with the idea of doing something similar for himself; setting up his own ecommerce business, but selling babywear. And so, Sharratt began working on the bones of the company, creating a logo, swing tags and the look of the website.
THE JACOB MATTHEWS ONLINE STORE By July 2016, Jacob Matthews was incorporated, with the website going live just a few months later in October – three days before the birth of the couple’s second son, Oliver. The shop launched with pom-pom hats, alongside a small selection of nightwear, pyjamas and coats. However, it was the pom-pom hats – and Facebook - that really helped get the business off the ground. “After our son Oliver was born, I took a picture of my him in hospital wearing one of our hats and posted it on Facebook,” says Sharratt. “The interaction was incredible. I realised putting advertising budget behind one key 40 - MARCH/APRIL 2019
image that linked through to the store was the most effective means to drive customers to the new website. “Marketing the business was something I was really keen to gain more knowledge in. I did an audio production degree at university and have created and released my own music on iTunes, so I had some experience of marketing in that respect. However, fashion ecommerce is quite different. As well as Facebook, I also began
researching demographics and Google Ads.” With the website launched and marketing strategies underway, the store upped its stock, taking on thousands of the popular pom-pom hats as well as developing the clothing offer, which increased to around 40 lines in four weeks. This then became 50 lines, 60, 70; basically around 10 new lines a week. Pom-pom hats – and hats in general - still do incredibly well for the business, with around 7,000 being sold this
PROFILE | CWB-ONLINE.CO
“ THE FIRST WHOLESALE COLLECTION FOR A/W 19 IS AVAILABLE FOR 0 TO 4 YEARS AND OFFERS 48 STYLES ACROSS EIGHT STORIES. AROUND 70 PER CENT OF THE COLLECTION FOCUSES ON 0 TO 24 MONTHS, WITH THE REMAINDER GOING UP TO FOUR YEARS.”
autumn/winter alone. Today the website carries around 20 independent babywear brands, including a number of popular Spanish labels, all of which specialise in high quality, classic and traditional garments. Key names include Babidu, Sarah Louise, Tutto Piccolo, Mebi, Sardon, Laranjinha, Emile et Rose, Patachou, Mini la Mode, Foque and Coco. Plus, not forgetting the business’s own-brand, Jacob Matthews.
THE JACOB MATTHEWS BABYWEAR BRAND Jacob Matthews’ own-brand pieces were first introduced in January 2018. However, momentum picked up considerably when childrenswear consultant Sharon Beardsworth came on board in October 2018 to help develop the s/s 19 collection. By the time the a/w 19 collection was being sampled, the idea to wholesale began to take hold. “Initially we were cautious about wholesaling the collection, mainly due to the challenges of finding the right agents and having to increase our prices to account for margins,” Sharratt continues. “Despite this, we knew there was space in the market for a classic babywear collection like ours.”
EXPANDING INTO WHOLESALE The first wholesale collection for a/w 19 is available for 0 to 4 years and offers 48 styles across eight stories. Around 70 per cent of the collection focuses on 0 to 24 months, with the remainder going up to four years, including some
fashion styles for older children. The brand presents a strong range of garments including knitwear, classic outerwear and layette styles. There are also ‘essentials’, comprising baby basics such as all-in-ones, hats and shawls, with a middle range including wovens, dresses, dungarees and fashion styles. A range of Made in the UK children’s shoes will also be introduced for mid-2019. Jacob Matthews’ classic style embraces a pastel pink and blue colour palette. Fabrics include Portuguese velour, wovens and Italian fleece, with detailing including branded embroidery and decals. You can also expect design signatures such as peter pan, frilled and embroidered collars. In terms of target audience, the collection aims to appeal primarily to young mums within the 24 to 36-year age bracket, but the brand’s traditional take on babywear will no doubt see it attract a wider market, including grandparents. “We’ve tried to develop a brand that matches the quality of the best babywear brand in the market, but one that offers great value for money to the consumer, with a classic, timeless design that appeals to all generations,” confirms Sharratt. “With our own experience of retail, we have a good feel for what is being sought by new mums and buyers of baby gifts.” A/w 19 is a soft launch for the wholesale collection and sees the brand focusing exclusively on UK stockists. Three agents across Scotland, the North and the Midlands, with Wales also covered, began selling mid-March, with Sharon Beardsworth also presenting the brand to prospective wholesale clients. With the Jacob Matthews a/w 19 collection currently selling and
s/s 20 under development, the focus is now firmly placed on the collection’s continual development, including pieces unique to the Jacob Matthews website. “To ensure we retain something unique, we will be developing a Jacob Matthews range exclusive to us,” says Sharratt. “For instance, Jacob Matthews Classics, which will offer nightwear and pyjamas. Developing more exclusive styles is definitely something we’ll be focusing on going forward.”
WHAT’S NEXT FOR JACOB MATTHEWS? Ultimately, the rate at which the Jacob Matthews collection grows will now dictate future developments elsewhere in the business. Sharratt is, for instance, keen to gain more brands for the store. However, this will now be led by the own-label and its growth over the coming seasons. And, with plans for s/s 20 to include more agents, trade shows and international distribution, the own-brand line could be in for a considerable growth spurt. “We’re looking for a UK agent in the South for s/s 20 and will also be focusing on international distribution, particularly for Australia and the US. In terms of trade shows, we’ll be showing at INDX Kidswear for s/s 20 and potentially Pitti Bimbo in Florence, if not for s/s 20, then for a/w 20. Our strategy is to develop the Matthew Jacobs brand to be as widely known as possible, both in the UK and internationally.” www.jacobmatthews.co.uk MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 41
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SCHOOLWEAR BUYER THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY
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46: WILLIAM TURNER - 50 YEARS OF SERVICE TO SCHOOLWEAR Daniel Turner, MD of William Turner and Son, a third-generation family business, manufacturer and supplier of school ties and accessories currently celebrating its 50th anniversary, discusses what’s next for the business as well as his hopes for the industry.
50: UNIFORM’S FIRST FAMILY Laura Turner chats to the Stevenson brothers, who head up the largest independent schoolwear company in the country, to discover how they’re shaking up the world of schoolwear retail.
MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 43
CWB-ONLINE.CO | SCHOOLWEAR NEWS
SCHOOLWEAR NEWS The latest news from the schoolwear industry. FALCON SPORTSWEAR RELOCATES Bradford-based Falcon Sportswear has moved to a new 37,000 sq ft warehouse and office space to provide capacity for the company’s continued growth. The firm’s previous premises comprised five floors, making day-to-day operations difficult for warehouse staff. The new site, however, is based entirely on one floor, significantly improving the business’s daily productivity and efficiency. The new warehouse and office space is also around 30 per cent bigger than Falcon’s previous premises. As well as enabling the firm to increase stock holding, the new site will also facilitate the introduction of additional ranges.
BANNER INTRODUCES NEW SPORTSWEAR RANGE March 2019 marked the arrival of APTUS Essentials, Banner’s new entry level sportswear range for the primary and secondary schoolwear market. With a key focus on fit, comfort, design and colour, the range comprises 10 multi-purpose garments: a short sleeve training tee, polo shirt, fitted polo shirt, long sleeve multisport shirt, full and ¼ zip training tops, training shorts, a skort, training pants, and leggings. The 10 standalone garments also work together with APTUS Performance, Banner’s technical performance sports range. APTUS Essentials is available to order from stock, all year round, at banner.co.uk.
NEWS IN BRIEF Marks & Spencer (M&S) is helping prevent plastic waste from going to landfill by enabling customers to bring back non-recyclable plastic packaging. In partnership with plastics technology firm, Dow, the collected plastic will be used to create school playground equipment as well as store fittings and furniture. In collaboration with waste education social enterprise, Wastebuster, M&S is also introducing recycling collection points at primary schools. 44 - MARCH/APRIL 2019
WINTERBOTTOM’S SCHOOLWEAR LAUNCHES B2B WEBSITE
NEW APPOINTMENTS FOR ROWLINSON KNITWEAR Rowlinson Knitwear (Rowlinson) has created its first job-share role with the appointment of two co-directors of people services. Nicola Ryan (right), Rowlinson’s former head of people services, and Leanne Gainford (left), previously people development manager, take up the newly created position of joint director of people services. The board level post is also the first appointment to Rowlinson’s new senior management board, which will lead the company to achieve its next growth goal. Joining Rowlinson in 2008, Ryan has 15 years’ experience in recruitment and HR. In 2017, Ryan was Stockport Business Awards’ Business Person of the Year and was shortlisted as IIP People’s Manager of the Year. Gainford has been with Rowlinson since 2013 and has over 20 years’ experience in sales, personal development and coaching. “We’re proud to stand alongside forwardthinking organisations including The Guardian, Age UK and the BBC as a beacon for flexible working practices as well as promoting women into senior leadership roles,” says Rowlinson’s MD, Donald Moore.
Last month saw Chic China International Fashion Fair, Asia’s largest fashion and lifestyle show, return to the National Exhibition & Convention Centre in Shanghai. Occupying five exhibition halls, the show featured a number of new show-in-shows, including Chic-Kidz. Offering kids’ and teens’ fashion, school uniform, swimwear and designer brands, Chic-Kidz launched with over 50 exhibitors and brands.
Winterbottom’s Schoolwear has launched an easy to use, mobile-friendly, transactional B2B website to provide retailers with more flexibility when placing orders. Key features include stock level visibility and ‘stock due in’ information. A back-orders option also enables customers to place orders over and above the stock levels Winterbottom’s has. The quantities that aren’t available are then allocated to the customer when the next delivery arrives into the warehouse. The quick order form on a product page allows quantities to be entered quickly for each product colour, whilst a bulk order form - a list of all the catalogue products - allows customers to select the SKU they want and enter the quantities they require. To select the same products as a previous order, customers can use the reorder button and simply change the quantities. “I am confident that the core features of the site will reduce the length of time that our customers need to spend placing orders with us,” says Winterbottom’s CFO, Mark Tarrant (pictured). “The intention for the website is not to remove the requirement for a personal customer service experience, our dedicated customer service team will be on-hand every step of the way should there be any queries. My belief for the website is that it will remove a few of the manual, non-value adding tasks from the customer services team and help them to concentrate on getting to know our customers better.”
Leading environmentalists are amongst the first to promote the Year of Green Action, an initiative to improve the environment and raise awareness of the simple steps everyone can take in schools, workplaces and homes to make a difference. Environment Secretary Michael Gove welcomed UN Patron of the Oceans Lewis Pugh, environmentalist David de Rothschild and TV presenter, Jan Leeming, to help educate and inspire the next generation of environmentalists.
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WILLIAM TURNER - 50 YEARS OF SERVICE TO SCHOOLWEAR Daniel Turner, managing director of William Turner and Son, a third-generation family business, manufacturer and supplier of school ties and accessories that is currently celebrating its 50th anniversary, discusses what’s next for the business as well as his hopes for the industry as a whole.
Laura Turner: What key issues is the schoolwear industry currently facing? Daniel Turner: Every new year brings opportunities and challenges for the industry to embrace. On one hand, there are rising school populations and increasing formality in uniform; both offer new business opportunities and reasons to expand our product range. On the other hand, there are cuts to school budgets and the struggles on the high street are well documented – less footfall, parking charges and business rates. The schoolwear industry is battling against ‘fast fashion’, where people buy cheaply but in the long run usually end up buying twice, as the garments are often not as hard wearing. We need to do more to campaign for fair prices and good quality clothing that lasts longer. In a no-deal scenario, Brexit could cause shipping delays and potentially, a rise in prices because of increasing tariffs. Exchange rates are also likely to be affected. However, a positive post-Brexit result for us would be if the Government is finally able to remove VAT from all school uniform. 46 - MARCH/APRIL 2019
The industry is also facing a range of political issues that it needs to navigate. For example, the Welsh Government is consulting on restricting the use of logos on school uniform, which potentially could have a huge impact. The proposed changes in policy would mean schools could be limited to a uniform consisting of basic clothing and colours but not a specific style of garment, for instance, a smart blazer. LT: How is William Turner addressing any challenges? DT: We’re focusing on developing as a team and making sure we retain and recruit the best talent in the industry. We’ve recently recruited a sourcing manager, production scheduler, supply chain analyst and also a production controller for our bag factory in China. We’re also eager to help support the Schoolwear Association in lobbying and presenting the concerns of the industry to Government. Plus, we’re increasing our stock levels to protect against any post-Brexit shortages.
LT: You mention supporting the Schoolwear Association. Why do you feel this is important? DT: As the Schoolwear Association’s vice chair, I know how hard the Association is working to educate Government in its understanding of how our trade operates. Also, to present a positive image in the media of the amazing work we all do to clothe millions of students in the secondhighest sales period behind Christmas. LT: What do you feel will be the key trends in the market for 2019? DT: One trend is certainly gender neutral uniforms. It is becoming more about offering choice and enabling pupils to wear what they feel comfortable in. Eco-products and eco-packaging are becoming more important, too. Sustainability is a key concern, as is trying to fight the ‘fast fashion tax’. Parents recognise that it’s better to buy once and buy well. ‘Made in the UK’ is also popular. Brexit has created a higher level of awareness about where things are made and our customers are favouring products made locally.
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“ NO ONE CAN PREDICT THE EFFECT OF BREXIT, BUT AT WILLIAM TURNER WE ARE FOCUSING ON REINFORCING WHAT WE’VE BEEN DOING FOR THE LAST 50 YEARS, WHICH IS PROVIDING EXCELLENT PRODUCTS AND CUSTOMER SERVICE.” LT: Which trends is William Turner tapping into this year? DT: One focus for us is developing our range of Eco-ties made from recycled yarn, which our customers and schools are now specifying. Alongside these sit our Eco-Pure biodegradable water bottles, which take away the need for single-use plastic and, in the right conditions, biodegrade at the end of their life. There is also a focus on affordability nationally, with our sew-on and iron-on blazer badges providing a cost-effective way to ensure no child is disadvantaged. Finally, we’re keen to push that we manufacture in the UK so, through our engagement programme, we’re asking retailers to invite their schools to come and see the ties being made in our factories.
course, we are hoping that they will choose to stay in the UK.
LT: Is William Turner experiencing increased demand for its UK-made products? DT: Yes, we are, since people are more inclined to support UK jobs and UK tax paying businesses. We employ 125 people, some of whom are from other parts of Europe; of
LT: What growth opportunities do you see for the schoolwear market? DT: We’re seeing growth in the export market from countries who want to replicate the smart look of the UK school uniform. There is also an increasing formal market in primary
LT: What are the benefits to business of manufacturing in the UK? DT: There are many benefits. It gives us and our customers more control and better-quality products. It means we can help support and secure the future of the industry while also building a reputation for being reliable and trustworthy. Because we’re a UK manufacturer we are in a position, when possible, to personalise our products to help make them a little easier to use; particularly for pupils who may have a disability. We can also provide added value and personal service. Every child is special and we try to go the extra mile for them.
schools, which of course, we welcome. LT: What are your views on the future of the industry? DT: It’s definitely a volatile time, both in the country and also in our trade. I think there will be more vertical and horizontal consolidation in the industry between suppliers and retailers. For a while it looked like online shopping was the future, but now retail is rightly coming back strongly. It is those forward-thinking retailers, who are multi-channel and dedicated to service and strong relationships with their schools, that will prosper. No one can predict the effect of Brexit, but at William Turner we are focusing on reinforcing what we’ve been doing for the last 50 years, which is providing excellent products and customer service. Please come back and ask me this question again in 20 years’ time it will be fascinating to see how it all turned out. www.william-turner.co.uk MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 47
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INDEPENDENT BLAZER. EXPERTISE FOR YOUR. SCHOOLS. Made To Order collection is steeped in “Our history and comes with the trusted quality and assurance of all David Luke products.
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To find out how David Luke can help your business in 2019 call us on 0161 272 7474. DURABILITY IN MIND ETHICS AT HEART.
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NEW FOR 2019 ESSENTIALLY ALL YOU NEED APTUS Essentials, Banner’s new stylish entry level sportswear range is available to order online at banner.co.uk from the end of March 2019. Thoroughly researched and designed in-house with a singular focus on school sport, the range has been created to suit all ages, sizes and body types and along with APTUS Performance offers a one stop solution for all your sportswear requirements. For more information contact Customerservice@banner.co.uk, call 0333 7000 888 or visit our website banner.co.uk
Product – Ten modern multi-purpose garments.
Colour – Vast array of colours across the range that can be mixed with APTUS Performance.
Sizing – Comprehensive sizing offer for both Primary and Secondary students.
Pricing – Attractive prices that work for everyone.
CWB-ONLINE.CO | SCHOOLWEAR
UNIFORM’S FIRST FAMILY Laura Turner chats to the Stevenson brothers, who head up the largest independent schoolwear company in the country, to discover how they’re shaking up the world of schoolwear retail.
LT: How do online sales compare to your other routes to market? JS: Since we relaunched our Stevensons website in 2016, online sales have really picked up and now account for almost £6m, that’s around a quarter of the total. However, we have a new transactional site launching later in the spring selling an extended range of our XXV School Performance Sportswear, which I’m sure will push the figures up even further.
MARK STEVENSON
JOHN STEVENSON
Laura Turner: What’s the history behind Stevensons? Mark Stevenson (MS): The company was established in St Albans in 1925 by our grandfather. We still have two stores on the same street to this day. Since that time the number of schools we work with has rocketed from 40, to now well over 500. John Stevenson (JS): Mark and I are the current joint managing directors and the third generation of the family involved in running the company. Our sister, Mary, manages the finances, our brother-in-law heads up the new business area and my wife is the buying manager, so it really is a family affair.
country’s largest schoolwear retailer, but also to have won the Schoolwear Association’s Specialist Retailer of the year award in 2018. JS: It’s been an incredible leap over the last few years, having recently acquired a number of other established family run schoolwear specialists including Aitken & Niven in Scotland, The Schoolwear Centre in Norwich, Lester Bowden in Epsom and Eton Sports in greater London.
LT: What would you highlight as the company’s key milestones? MS: I guess the key moment has to be in the late 80s when Dad decided to focus purely on the schoolwear market, rather than fashion. JS: More recently, it would be the launch of our first transactional website in 2012 or the birth of our own sportswear brand XXV (based on the roman numerals for the year the company was established – 1925) in 2014, which is now worn in more UK independent schools than any other sportswear brand. MS: We are also proud to not only be the
LT: How many shops do you currently have in your portfolio? MS: There are 16 high street stores since we opened our most recent branch in Harpenden at the end of February. We also manage another 13 on-campus shops on behalf of our school partners and run 240 plus pop-up selling events a year on school premises. JS: Geographically, the stores stretch from Bournemouth, right the way up to Aberdeen, which is why we’ve had to re-structure and increase our store area management team to cope with the distances involved.
50 - MARCH/APRIL 2019
LT: What size is the overall workforce now? JS: There are now about 250 full-timers, but that massively swells when we take on another 350 seasonal temps to cope with Back to School.
LT: Can you tell me more about your acquisitions? MS: Our first acquisition was in 2008 and since then we have done a further 14. Selling a business is never an easy decision, but ultimately the time comes, whatever the reason, to look at an exit. Our friendly, trusting and honest approach is well respected within the trade to handle such sensitive matters, especially when it comes to dealing with valued staff who might have been with the company for many years. JS: Our more recent acquisitions have been more focussed in the sportswear market with Viper 10 selling specialist sports kit online to universities and sports clubs. We have plans to develop this part of our business further by moving deeper into the club teamwear market. LT: How was Back to School 2018? MS: Considering the scale of change in the business, everything went remarkably smoothly. Our buying team has got great working relationships with all of our suppliers, which helped us cope with the steep increase in business and the significant number of new schools we are now partnered with. JS: We took the decision last year to double the size of our Business Development Team, which looks after schools on a day-to-day basis. That helped strengthen our relationships with our existing partners, as well as having enough resources to deal with any ‘surprises’ from our new ones. MS: Meanwhile, our store teams delivered a record 4,300 one-to-one customer appointments in the summer period, as well keeping our stores
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open later into the evenings and over weekends, so we could offer parents more flexible shopping and the personal service we are known for. LT: Are there any improvements you plan to make for Back to School 2019? MS: You’ve always got to push on if you want to stay ahead, so there are lots of things planned. There are a number of improvements on the website, including one-click ‘repeat ordering’ for existing customers. Also, simple ‘next size up’ buying, rather than having to search through the whole online school shop, or as some of our online competitors require, actually having to re-measure your kids to see how much they’ve grown – how ‘intelligent’ is that! JS: Customers buying online will also have access to bestselling products that were previously only available in our branches. LT: How do you ensure you’re meeting customers’ needs? MS: We know from our research that the vast majority of customers ideally want to be able to visit a store to buy schoolwear, particularly if their child is starting a new school. If they can’t get to a physical store, our pop-up shops are a great second option. Online shopping is a brilliant modern-day backstop if there isn’t a shop close-by. The web is really good for top-up shopping all-year-round particularly, if like ours, it’s a well-designed interface that works efficiently with all devices. We provide shopping options in-store, via on campus shops, online and even over the phone. JS: Parents also want you to take the risk out of shopping and to make it as easy as possible. We still operate our unique 120-day return policy, so if parents are organised and buy early in the summer they aren’t penalised if their kids have a growth spurt. They can simply swap over the unused items for the ‘next size up’. We also carefully review when extended opening hours and appointments are offered, to match as closely
as possible to our customers’ needs in the run up to the autumn term. MS: Additionally, on a practical level, we are committed to providing uniforms to fit pupils of all sizes, even if that means making ‘bespoke’ sizes at no extra cost. We also keep in touch with general trends in fit to make sure we offer products that children will want to wear and that schools and parents will find acceptable. LT: What are your views on sustainability? MS: The issue of re-use and recycling is everyone’s problem. Even though we concentrate on providing products that are long-lasting – after all, school uniform has to be some of the hardest working types of clothing out there – we all need to do more, as individuals, as a company and as an industry. That’s why we are working on a number of initiatives that will make a real difference, which we hope to launch before Back to School this year. JS: On an environmental front, over the next six months we have also committed to replace all of our carrier bags and mailbags which are currently ‘bag-for-life’ quality – with alternatives made of 100 per cent recycled plastic, which itself is 100 per cent recyclable. Also, in Scotland, the money we are forced to charge for carrier bags will all be given to a local environmental marine charity. LT: What challenges are you currently facing? MS: As a ‘bricks & clicks’ company, I think the government seriously needs to consider some sort of online selling tax before even more high street stores are forced out of business. Online-only retailing is definitely a very cost-effective option, but if we want our high streets to prosper there needs to be some action, soon. JS: A quite different challenge is the increasing issue of gender neutrality. Whatever your own personal view is, our role as a retailer is to adapt and to operate in a socially acceptable
FINISHING TOUCHES COMPLETED AT THE NEW STEVENSONS STORE IN ABERDEEN
way that supports individual gender options and lessens any stigma. For Back to School 2019, all our new stock of own brand shirts and blouses will be displayed in de-gendered, less stereotyped coloured packaging. We are also working to adapt our website to offer a non-gender specific online ordering process for our online school shops. LT: What are your views on the current state of the schoolwear sector? MS: Undoubtably there is consolidation within the schoolwear industry. The traditional bond between supplier and retailer is now being questioned with the actions of certain suppliers looking to redraw lines. When previously deciding where to buy a product from, a decision was made on price, quality and service, but now we are having to weigh up whether that supplier will be a competitor. JS: As the majority of schoolwear retailers are family run businesses like us, it means that we can make decisions based on long term views and not short term decisions to appease shareholders. We believe the suppliers that hold the same values will continue to do well because at the end of the day our trade is synonymous with family values. LT: What do you foresee as your future in the industry? MS: We are here for the long-term and our expansion into the closely related sectors of providing sports kits for universities, clubs and teams through our recent acquisitions will hopefully offer us longer-term security and growth. JS: Maybe even a fourth generation of Stevensons running the company. www.stevensons.co.uk MARCH/APRIL 2019 - 51
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CONTACTS A Alas de Rayas 0034 622 628 671 www.alasderayas.com B Banner 0333 7000 888 www.banner.co.uk Britannical 01273 455845 www.britannical.com C Cotton Boulevard 07852 166074 www.cottonboulevard.co.uk E Etta Loves sales@ettaloves.com www.ettaloves.com F Fabelab info@fabelab.dk www.fabelab.dk Faire Child sales@fairechild.com www.fairechild.com Fashion for Kids 0048 41 365 1222 www.targikielce.pl/en/ Fiona Coleman fiona.coleman@me.com www.fiona-coleman.com I INDX Kidswear Show 0121 683 1415 www.indxshow.co.uk J Jacob Matthews 01704 893338 www.jacobmatthews.co.uk Joules 01858 435261 www.joulesgroup.com K KidPix 07786 050876 www.kidpix.uk L Lister & Bruce 07779 115741 www.listerandbruce.com M Main Story hello@main-story.com www.main-story.com ManCub 07739 315896 www.man-cub.com Mayoral 01277 227427 www.mayoral.com
Molo 0033 613 62 0122 www.molo.com Mori wholesale@babymori.com www.babymori.com MuslinZ 01295 810008 www.merrygorounduk.co.uk P Pitti Bimbo 0033 055 3696222 www.pittimmagine.com R Rex London 020 8746 1700 www.rexlondon.com Rowlinson Knitwear 0161 477 7791 www.rowlinson-knitwear.com S Sass + Me info@sassandme.com www.sassandme.com S-c Brands 01628 820082 www.s-cbrands.com Smalls 020 7002 7799 www.smallsmerino.co.uk Sunny Side of London 07481 487263 www.sunnyside.london T The Bonnie Mob wholesale@thebonniemob.com www.thebonniemob.com The Insights People 0330 159 6631 www.theinsightspeople.com Top Drawer 020 7384 8167 www.topdrawer.co.uk Tretorn rachael@unify-bp.com www.unify-bp.com Turtledove London 07855 509069 www.breitensteins.com TY Fashion sales@tyuk.co.uk V Velveteen hello@velvteenclothing.com www.velveteenclothing.com W Wild Hearts Wonder 07854 375969 www.wildheartswonder.com William Turner 0161 480 8582 www.william-turner.co.uk
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CWB-ONLINE.CO | TALKING POINT
TALKING POINT SAMIA KHAN Brand coach Childrenswear expert Samia Khan discusses business growth and brand building.
LT: Do you work with retailers? SK: Yes, and I love to do so. I advise on new brands, how to raise profits, drive footfall and how to become a destination store. LT: Who are some of your current clients? SK: I’m a partner in Etta Loves, an incredible baby brand built on science. Working with an orthoptist, it offers products designed to support babies’ cognitive and visual development. Also, Little Herbs, an organic skincare collection for mother and baby which is all made on Apple Island in Somerset and OWA Yurika, a very exciting, directional lifestyle brand for children. Laura Turner: Can you tell me about your career? Samia Khan: My background has been an interesting ride. It began in the music industry - Virgin, EMI and Polygram - before moving into fashion with Janet Reger. I then went back to music and started The Gallery, the most successful Friday club night in London, which has been running for over 20 years, before moving back into fashion, primarily childrenswear. LT: What’s your biggest success story? SK: I met the nursery brand aden + anais at the first edition of Bubble London. I double backed when I saw it, thinking, “Wow, this is good.” It was an insanely busy show and I didn’t get a minute to meet with them, but not long after Bubble I was asked to consult for aden + anais, mainly in a PR capacity. Within a few months I was doing pretty much everything to build the brand across EMEA. I then became MD for the EU, where I went onto build the whole operation. I took aden + anais from zero to £8 million in under five years, creating a space for muslin that was previously unknown and that now sees the fabrication as a leader in the baby industry. My clients call me the unicorn, which is true – I make the magic happen.
LT: What do you see as the main challenges facing the childrenswear sector? SK: There isn’t currently a trade show offering that meets all of the needs of UK brands and buyers. I can see there is a future in a show, something I am thinking about right now. Also, as an industry, we need to think about how we get consumers into stores. Everyone is so busy trying to make the sale that they don’t think of what happens after the stock is on the shelf. We need to help stores move through the collections, not only from a business growth perspective, but to sustain our high street. Consumers want interaction and connection, yet we are all stuck behind keyboards and social platforms, too blinded by vanity metrics to make a difference. Part of a business’s sales and marketing spend needs to go towards driving consumers into stores, whether that be through events, in-store theatre or practical teaching. LT: Which childrenswear businesses do you admire? SK: I love Childrensalon and Natural Baby Shower. Both of these stores have taken what they do and mastered it and by constantly innovating, they continually grow. I also adore the kids’ fashion brand Caroline Bosman -
“ MY CLIENTS CALL ME THE UNICORN, WHICH IS TRUE – I MAKE THE MAGIC HAPPEN.” 54 - MARCH/APRIL 2019
beautiful collections and divine branding - and We are Little Giants has uber-cool kids’ streetwear. A Little Lovely Company is another I admire. Its growth has been incredible over a short few years and it dominates its market, again, by constantly innovating. LT: Part of your job is being a business mentor, but who are yours? SK: I was very lucky to have Richard Branson as my first mentor. What I learnt from him has absolutely shaped the leader I am today. I have also worked with some fierce female mentors: Georgina Beament, Janet and Aliza Reger, Raegan Moya-Jones, Keely Deininger, Shoshana Kazab, my team at aden + anais, Jennie Rose, Virginia Oritz and Sophie Mohammedi. All of them - and so many more - showed me how to be a better leader and taught me that together, as a team, we could build a brand and a business that would leave a legacy. LT: What inspires you in business? SK: Innovation, being a disruptor and creating what people say is impossible. If I’d listened to all the people who said aden + anais was nonsense, there wouldn’t now be a whole new floor at Kind & Jugend. How many people had muslin as a category pre-aden + anais? Back then it was something you bought at Mothercare or Boots and hid at home. Today, muslin is to be seen and shown off, it’s a key industry player. I love that I am part of the reason that happened. LT: What’s your business philosophy? SK: Talk to people, talk to everyone. Make a friend, don’t just hide behind the keyboard. Believe in what you do, be fearless, passionate, excited and learn from everyone. Also, be gracious, kind, work harder and never take yourself too seriously. I like to think I’m well-rounded in the advice and strategies that I can offer but we are always learning, so another key skill is listening. LT: How can clients reach out to you? SK: My new website samiakhanlondon.com is currently under construction, but I can also be found on social media at @samiakhanlondon.
Š2019. All rights reserved Young Soles, Photography by Emma Donnelly.
AUTUMN / WINTER 2019 Available for wholesale orders. Contact sales@youngsoles.london for more information.