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A FRESH LOOK AT KIDS’ FASHION, FOOTWEAR AND LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS

cwb-online.co June/July 2019 Issue 116 £9.95

SHOW SEASON PREVIEWS OF THE UPCOMING TRADE SHOWS AWASH WITH COLOUR THE KEY SS20 COLOUR STORIES FOR KIDSWEAR NEW MARKETS FOR OLD SOLES THE AUSTRALIAN FOOTWEAR BRAND’S PLANS FOR THE UK TALKING POINT Q&A WITH SCAMP & DUDE’S JO TUTCHENER SHARP

Incorporating

SCHOOLWEAR BUYER:


Froddo Children’s Shoes 20 years old this year Froddo UK & Ireland Distributor Kidsnewshoes.com Ltd. Hertfordshire Contact : Pauly Tong T: 01707 888388 M: 07796 766669 E: pauly.tong@kidsnewshoes.com www.froddo.com www.kidsnewshoes.com Northern agent: Matthew Clark Southern agent: Jose Garcia Ireland North & South: Pauly Tong

SPRING SUMMER 2020 BROCHURE AVAILABLE NOW


CONTENTS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

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CONTENTS 20

12 REGULARS 05: COMMENT 06: NEWS 08: NCWA 10: LEGAL ADVICE 12: RETAIL THERAPY Store profiles and retail news. 14: BRANDS TO WATCH Editor’s pick of brands. 16: LAURA LOVES The coolest products for kids. 62: TALKING POINT Q&A with Jo Tutchener Sharp, Scamp & Dude.

FEATURES 18: EXHIBITION CALENDAR The upcoming UK and international trade shows. 20: AWASH WITH COLOUR Fiona Coleman’s colour stories for s/s 20.

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44 22: PITTI BIMBO Preview of the international kids’ fashion fair. 26: INDX KIDSWEAR Preview of the UK’s largest kidswear trade show. 30: HOME & GIFT BUYERS’ FESTIVAL Preview of the lifestyle trade show. 32: BUBBLE AT PURE LONDON Preview of Pure London’s kidswear section. 34: NEW MARKETS FOR OLD SOLES Australian children’s footwear brand Old Soles sets its sights on the UK. 36: ARE CLOTHING BRANDS PREPARED FOR ECO-CONSCIOUS PARENTS? The Insights People on eco-conscious parents. 38: KIDSWEAR COLLECTIVE Shoshana Kazab, founder of PR consultancy Fuse Communications, discusses her latest project. 40: HOW TO SURVIVE AND THRIVE AS A YOUNG INDEPENDENT RETAILER Honest insight into the early years of an independent retail business.

42: THE INSIDE STORY OF AN ENTREPRENEUR Raegan Moya-Jones, founder and former CEO of aden + anais, on her new book. 44: A FEAST FOR THE EYES The science behind Etta Loves.

SCHOOLWEAR 48: NEWS 50: BANNER TALKS BUSINESS CWB talks Back to School readiness with Glenn Leech, Banner’s CEO. 52: BRENDA’S CELEBRATES 70 YEARS Jan Green, company director of schoolwear retailer Brenda’s, discusses the business’s 70th anniversary. 54: JUCO: A NEW MOVEMENT OF SCHOOL SPORTSWEAR The latest on Juco, the brand-new sportswear offering from schoolwear supplier, David Luke. 57: SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION AWARDS PREVIEW 2019 Everything you need to know about this year’s Schoolwear Association Awards.

FRONT COVER: MARMAR COPENHAGEN UK Agent: Breitenstein Agencies +44 78 5550 9069 / agency@breitensteins.com / www.breitensteins.com / www.marmar.dk JUNE/JULY 2019 - 03



COMMENT | CWB-ONLINE.CO

COMMENT If you are still trying to prepare for the upcoming trade shows, fear not, we have got you covered. This issue offers a host of exclusive insight into the forthcoming trade exhibitions, both in the UK and overseas. For those heading to Pitti Bimbo in Florence we have the latest on the fair’s new addition, The Kid’s Lab!. We also bring you everything you need to know about the UK’s biggest childrenswear trade show, INDX Kidswear, which will showcase over 200 brands for s/s 20, including 50 first-time exhibitors. Additionally, a new event on our radar is the Home & Gift Buyers’ Festival in Harrogate, which will present its largest ever children’s offering in July. Furthermore, Pure London’s vision for its Festival of Fashion continues with the development of kidswear section, Bubble at Pure London. For s/s 20, Bubble will return with a curated selection of kids’ fashion, accessories and maternity collections alongside inspirational catwalk presentations. Aside from the latest trade show news we also gain business advice from Raegan Moya-Jones, founder and former CEO of aden + anais, who recently published ‘What It Takes’, an empowering depiction of female entrepreneurship. Tess Gee, co-founder of Manchester’s award-winning kids’ concept store, Our Kid, also discusses her tips for surviving and thriving as a young independent retailer. Elsewhere, the topic of sustainability continues to reign, including our feature on Kidswear Collective, the new online platform bridging the gap between pre-loved and past season designer children’s clothes and a first-hand, luxury shopping experience. Market intelligence resource, The Insights People, also takes a look at the rise of eco-conscious parents and how their interest in vegan and ethical lifestyles is affecting purchasing decisions for children’s clothes. In schoolwear we celebrate the retailer Brenda’s 70th anniversary, taking a look at some of the business’s milestones over the years as well as examples of its commitment to progression and innovation. Banner’s CEO Glenn Leech discusses Back to School readiness and we also introduce Juco, the brand-new sportswear offering from David Luke Schoolwear. Finally, we take our first look at this year’s Schoolwear Association Awards, which include a new Sustainability in Schoolwear Award for 2019. As the season gets underway, we’ll have plenty more updates to share. To ensure you don’t miss out, why not sign up to our weekly newsletter? You can do so via the homepage of cwb-online.co.

Laura Turner, Editor

EDITOR LAURA TURNER laura@cwbmedia.co.uk SALES MANAGER MICHELE ALI michele@cwbmedia.co.uk DESIGNER MICHAEL PODGER podgerdesign@outlook.com REPROGRAPHICS/PRINTING IMAGE DATA GROUP LTD 01482 652323 cwb-online.co CWB is published 4 times per year by NCWA, 3 Queen Square, Bloomsbury, London WC1N 3AR +44 (0) 20 7843 9488 | enquiries@ncwa.co.uk | www.ncwa.co.uk Copyright© 2018 CWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither NCWA nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

CWB is a fashion business publication owned and produced by The Childrenswear Association.

JUNE/JULY 2019 - 05


CWB-ONLINE.CO | NEWS

NEWS ROUND-UP PLAYTIME PARIS PRESENTS A FRESH LOOK AND NEW CONTENT

KIDPIX’S NEW ONLINE PLATFORM FOR KIDSWEAR KidPix, the subscription box service for premium kids’ fashion, has launched a new online global platform dedicated to shopping independent childrenswear brands and boutiques. Directly connecting consumers with independent brands from across the globe, the platform caters for a range of style preferences, sizes (0 to 12 years) and budgets. By invite-only, both emerging labels and established designers have been selected to join as boutique members of the KidPix community. These include Twin & Chic, Little Lord and Lady, iHaven’t the Foggiest, Baby & Taylor, Bebe Bombom and Britannical. As well as the new shopping platform, KidPix has launched a redesigned website and will also continue to offer its subscription box and gifting service.

Children’s fashion and lifestyle trade show, Playtime Paris, will return to Parc Floral de Paris on 29 June to 1 July 2019 presenting 500 brands, 20 per cent of which are first-time exhibitors. To improve the visitor experience, Playtime has redesigned its show space. Whilst walking the aisles, buyers will now be able to discover new collections whilst drawing inspiration in an interactive trend space or taking part in a conference or creative workshop. The show’s New Now space will also make a return, spotlighting 12 promising brands exhibiting at the show for the first time. This season’s line-up selected by Junior Style’s Romaine Coonghe is: Babytoly, Compass Kids, Cosmosophie, Daily Brat, Imoimo Kids, Lu Kids, Lunares en Mayo, Möm(e), On Cloud Nine, Soor Ploom, Wee Monster and Weekend House Kids. Other highlights include the Crea.tif space,

where graphic and textile designers will gather to share their passion for prints in a new setup. The show’s Playground spaces will also invite discovery through original events while The Club, a show within the show, will present 40 fashion brands in an intimate atmosphere. A new conference room will also host a full program of conferences and round tables during the event.

CRIBSTAR COLLABORATES WITH THE GRUFFALO

INTRODUCING BLUE MOUSE AGENCY

In partnership with Magic Light Pictures, ethical kidswear brand Cribstar has launched a new collection to mark the 20th anniversary of The Gruffalo. Featuring Cribstar’s signature unisex style and monochrome colour palette, items are available in a choice of Gruffalo or Mouse prints. Mix and match pieces include sweatshirts, harem leggings, T-shirts, long sleeve tops and shorts, plus a muslin swaddle blanket. “The brief was to put a modern spin on the characters by doing something that hadn’t been done before,” says Cribstar’s director, Jadwiga Batatawala. “The result is a minimalistic collection, which is quite far removed from The Gruffalo clothing we are all used to seeing.”

Blue Mouse Agency is a brand-new childrenswear agency launching for s/s 20. Owner Liz James previously worked in retail management with stores such as Crew Clothing and Mamas & Papas as well as having her own childrenswear boutique. Officially launched on 5 June 2019, the agency is introducing two labels to the UK: boyswear brand Me & Henry and the vintageinspired label, Vignette (pictured). It also represents Lilly and Sid, which is launching its first GOTS certified organic collection for s/s 20, as well as Turtledove London, Steiff and V&Crew. Blue Mouse Agency will be in attendance at INDX Kidswear SS20 and also has a showroom located in York.

NEW DEVELOPMENTS FOR THE INSIGHTS PEOPLE The Insights People, a leading market intelligence company specialising in kids, tweens, teens and parents, is continuing its expansion with a number of recent promotions and appointments. New additions to the firm include toy and licensing stalwart David Martin as chief commercial officer. Martin brings a wealth of experience, including previous senior director roles at Crayola, Funrise and KD Group. Furthermore, to house its expanding team, the business is relocating to new office space on Oxford Street in central Manchester. “This year is going to be an extremely exciting one as we continue to grow and expand,” says chief executive, Nick Richardson “These additions and promotions are going to be key in helping us reach our ambitious targets.”

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NEWS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

POCO NIDO EXPANDS SHOE OFFER

NEW ORGANIC NURSERY AND SLEEPWEAR BRAND Lily & Mortimer is a new UK organic and fair trade nursery and sleepwear brand offering ethically sourced, luxury sleep essentials for children. The Mini Collection includes soft and breathable rompers, muslin swaddles, sleep sheets, towels and bibs. A new children’s casual and sleepwear collection available this month extends the range from 0 to 5 years. Designs are sophisticated and timeless featuring prints in neutral tones. Lily & Mortimer has a fully traceable supply chain and all of its products are GOTS certified.

CUB & PUDDING LAUNCHES WITH GENDER-NEUTRAL RANGE Cub & Pudding is a new childrenswear brand offering quirky, bold prints in timeless and gender-neutral colourways. The collection’s identity is rooted in founder Sarah Birchall’s love of wordplay and books, which she translates into hand-drawn, playful illustrations. Highlights include a bow tie print, a noughts and crosses drawing and a pencil scatterings design. Cub & Pudding’s debut collection focuses on classic and relaxed styles made in cotton. Key pieces include slouchy dungarees with adjustable back straps, leggings with subtle stretch and a boxy T-shirt.

Children’s footwear and accessories brand, Poco Nido, has two new ranges of barefoot-friendly leather shoes. Available in four colours, the Mighty Shoe collection offers three styles including a desert boot. Using the same colour palette, there is also the unlined Midi Shoe range. Available in two styles of chrome-free soft leather, the shoes include colour matching suede soles. The ranges are suitable for cruising, walking, jumping and running, both indoors and out. Sizes are 20–26 for the Mighty Shoes and 18–21 for the Midi Shoes.

FRUGI LAUNCHES SUMMER OF SHIAWASE The new s/s 20 collection from organic brand Frugi welcomes you to Japan and a Summer of Shiawase. The range of childrenswear, homeware, maternity and breastfeeding clothing takes inspiration from Ikigai, the Japanese principle of living a happy life for a meaningful life. “We visited the main sites in Japan to inspire a new colour palette, new characters and a greater choice of product,” says Frugi’s lead designer, Jeni Bolton. “You’ll find skateboarding cats, unicorns and sunflowers, windsurfing, cherry blossom, parasols, Koi carp, sika deer, Mount Fuji and our very own Frugi-zilla.” S/s 20 includes the brand’s first sleep sacks; new matching PJ and bedding sets; Bloom, a collection of styles for mums during and after pregnancy; and garments for dads to twin with the kids.

NEW BRANDS AT LITTLE ICONS UK kidswear agency Little Icons has added Riffle (pictured) and Bella + Frank for s/s 20. From the creators of Snoozebaby, Dutch babywear label Riffle caters for 0 to 2 years. Freedom of movement and a natural palette of powdery colours form the basis of designs, with signature styles including baggy pants, suits and sweaters. Meanwhile, sustainable childrenswear brand Bella + Frank aims to exemplify how contemporary fashion can show its commitment to nature, artistic endeavour and the environment. Characteristically fascinated with animals and prints, this is a brand for radical individuality; for youthful expressiveness, sustainability, non-gendered designs as well as a celebration of the animal kingdom. S/s 20 appointments for both brands are available in London from 23-28 June 2019.

JOULES APPOINTS NEW CEO British lifestyle brand Joules has appointed Nick Jones as the company’s new chief executive officer. Jones will join Joules from Asda where he is a member of the executive board and responsible for the performance of the grocer’s trading divisions across food, general merchandise and George. News of Jones’s appointment follows the Group’s announcement on 1 April 2019 that after eight years in the business, Colin Porter had given notice of his intention to retire before the end of the Group’s FY20 financial year. Jones will start at Joules before the end of 2019.

NEWS IN BRIEF Lagardère Active Enterprises (L.A.E.), which is in charge of ELLE brand nonmedia extension, is partnering with the Brand Machine Group (BMG) on childrenswear. The license agreement between BMG and L.A.E. will enable BMG to design, manufacture and market the ELLE childrenswear collection. Offering a wide variety of stylish silhouettes across baby, kids and junior segments, the collection aims to appeal to children age 0 to 16 years.

Cheeky Chompers, the award-winning brand behind the original chewy dribble bib, the Neckerchew, has partnered with global lifestyle brand The White Company. The collaboration features two exclusive products: Cheeky Chompers’ Neckerchew and MultiMuslin. Both are designed in The White Company’s signature star print on a white background in 100 per cent organic muslin. The collaborative products are available in-store and online at The White Company.

Petit Collage, the eco-friendly children’s gift and toy brand available to trade via Wild & Wolf, has been selected as a recipient of a ‘Recommended’ seal at the 2019 Parents’ Choice Awards for its Shine Bright Magnetic Play Sets. Two of Petit Collage’s new products have also been shortlisted for the Junior Design Awards 2019. Petit Collage uses recycled or recyclable substrates for its toys and gifts whenever possible as well as minimal packaging. JUNE/JULY 2019 - 07


CWB-ONLINE.CO | NCWA

NCWA NEWS EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT Three months ago, I queried whether we would soon be in a position to understand the outcome of the Brexit negotiations and the various votes planned in the House of Commons. I was right (with so many) to be questioning this, as we are now facing a series of elections within the Conservative Party to determine who the next Prime Minister will be. In the meantime, our industry has to “keep calm and carry on” until that is resolved and more importantly until we learn what the short- and long-term relationship with the EU will be. The results of the Elections to the European Elections have reinforced my view that the environmental impact of clothing and what can be done to reduce the amount of clothing that goes to landfill will be an issue that will exercise all of us over the months and years to come. Some of this debate could be of benefit to those who manufacture within the UK or the EU, as geographical proximity would at least reduce the carbon footprint of children’s clothing produced there, although one has to consider where the fabric and other components were sourced. There is, however, more than this to determining one’s carbon footprint. What are your garments made of? How well made are they and the fabric they are made from? In other words, how many generations could they be passed down to? On the other hand, how will this allow the concept of fashion to survive and trends be allowed to develop? The recent success of the Green Party in the European Elections was not just a protest vote for those seeking a pro-EU party. There can be no doubt that many younger voters are actively seeking out a “green/eco/recyclable” vision of the future, so any company that can respond to that in an “honest” way, could be streets ahead of its competitors. Whatever you decide to do, please make sure that your claims are sustainable and remember that words such as “green” and “eco” are in themselves discouraged, as they do not relate to any standard of interpretation. If you want to learn more, please do contact NCWA. The spring/summer exhibition season will soon be upon us and I look forward to seeing many of you at the trade shows. We have heard that Dot to Dot in London has now closed, so the choice for exhibitors has narrowed. If you are a buyer and you are hesitating about which if any show to visit, remember that it is only by visiting exhibitions that you get a full view of trends and of what your competitors will be manufacturing and selling. The fact that you may not be planning to place any orders should not excuse you from visiting the exhibitions on offer (details of which are on the NCWA website). If you would like to talk to me about any of the issues above, or indeed anything else, please do not hesitate to contact me at NCWA, 3 Queen Square, London WC1N 3AR, 020 7843 9488, info@ncwa.co.uk. If you are not a member, do look at our website, www.ncwa.co.uk. You can easily join online and membership starts at only £100 (+ VAT) per annum. Elizabeth P Fox Executive Director

NCWA COUNCIL: Chairman: MARK BARNETT, Barnett Agencies Imm. Past Chairman: SHARON BEARDSWORTH, RSB Associates Treasurer: DAVID BURGESS, David Luke Ltd — COUNCIL MEMBERS: NUALA MCKENNA Nuala McKenna Agencies Agent, DIANE SHAW Agent SARAH TAYLOR Agent, DANIELE SISMONDI Brand Stable Agent RACHEL RILEY Rachel Riley Manufacturer, EMMA-JANE ADAM Love My Smalls Ltd Manufacturer DAVID PARKER Baby Melanie Retailer President: KEN SCATES Marketing consultant Vice Presidents: LESLEY FALLON Retail consultant JACKIE COOK Retail consultant Executive Director: ELIZABETH FOX

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GRASS & AIR INTRODUCES NEW RANGES Kids’ outerwear brand Grass & Air is launching two new ranges. Firstly, a new collection for babies featuring chalky grey, pink and blue colour-reveal wellies starting at infant size 3. The brand also has a new limited-edition Manchester Worker Bee collection in collaboration with The University of Manchester’s cultural venues. With a base colour of yellow or navy, the new offering reflects the fun-loving, urban spirit of Manchester. The collection comprises an umbrella and Wellingtons in infant size 4 to 12, both of which feature the city’s official worker bee symbol.

PIGEON REBRANDS FOR AW19 Organic childrenswear brand Pigeon is rebranding for the a/w 19 season. The company’s new logo features a softer, handwritten design, which founder Jane Shepherd feels is a better visual representation of Pigeon’s identity. “We still love the idea of Pigeon as something partly beautiful and partly rebellious, but our existing logo felt a little bit static,” says Shepherd. “There have been big changes at Pigeon in the past, most notably the introduction of our seasonal collection. The new logo represents us becoming clearer about who and what we are.”

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NCWA | CWB-ONLINE.CO

LILLY AND SID LAUNCHES ORGANIC COLLECTION FOR SS20

FINEST FOR BABY TO REPRESENT CAMBRASS Finest for Baby Agencies, which specialises in baby and children’s merchandise including the brands Kissy Kissy, Sophie La Girafe and BamBam, has added Spanish brand Cambrass to its showroom for s/s 20. Cambrass offers a range of baby products, maternity bags, toiletry bags, Moses baskets, cots, nappy changers, sleeping bags, blankets, hooded towels and sheets. All of the collections are available in a wide choice of designs and colours to create the perfect nursery complete with accessories.

Titled ‘Wildlife’ and celebrating nature’s beauty, the new s/s 20 offering from Lilly and Sid will mark the childrenswear brand’s first GOTS certified organic collection. To reflect its new organic strategy, Lilly and Sid is also introducing new branding with complementary hangtags for baby and older kids. The brand’s investment in organic is backed by strong sales growth and will therefore not result in an increase in wholesale prices. Lilly and Sid’s ethos remains the same; commitment to building a brand with price points accessible to many.

DEVELOPMENTS FOR BREITENSTEIN AGENCIES

SOLOBI INTRODUCES THREE NEW BRANDS Specialist baby and kidswear agency, Solobi, has introduced three new brands to its portfolio. Firstly Gamcha, which designs items for kids’ rooms handmade in felt by Nepalese women. The felt is made of 100 per cent wool from New Zealand and dyed with colours that are 100 per cent AZO-free. Bed linens are 100 per cent organic sateen cotton. Also, new UK baby shoe brand Sass & Me, which is created and designed specifically for young, developing feet by mum of five Rebecca Crosthwaite. Lightweight yet offering firm support, the shoes are easy to put on, fit securely and allow a baby’s toes to grip the ground. Finally, there is the new Dutch hair accessories brand Milledeux, which uses only nickel-free metal, certified Oeko-Tex ribbon and hairstylist-grade alligator clips with no teeth. The collection is entirely handmade and available in a wide choice of styles and colours.

Children’s footwear and fashion agency, Breitenstein Agencies, has moved to a new showroom at The Barley Mow Centre, London W4 4PH. Barley Mow is a newly refurbished club workspace that includes a restaurant, meeting rooms and an events area. The agency also has a new addition in the Norwegian hair accessory brand, Bon Dep. Bon Dep’s extensive range includes clips, slides and combs made from acetate, with some style decorated with genuine Swarovski crystals. Equally, the agency’s footwear brand Veja Kids continues to go from strength to strength. Veja sneakers are made entirely from ethically sourced, fairly traded and sustainable materials, including shoes made from corn waste.

NEWS IN BRIEF Luxury childrenswear brand Rachel Riley has launched a new website, which includes a blog titled Life of Riley by the brand’s founder and designer, Rachel Riley. Recent posts include insight into Riley’s design inspiration, a look at the brand’s new London showroom, behind the scenes of a photo shoot, Easter outfitting, shopping for a newborn and a royal baby edit. New NCWA member Artie is a babywear and legwear manufacturer and brand. Its clothing features only 100 per cent natural fabrics and yarns, while its fresh and distinguishable style is created by a group of talented designers from Moscow and London. View Artie’s latest collection at this season’s INDX Kidswear show. Spanish childrenswear brand Tutto Piccolo has opened a new selling point in the El Corte Ingles department store in Serrano Street, Madrid. As well as placing the brand in front of international tourists, the development also increases the brand’s presence with Spanish customers. With this opening, Tutto Piccolo now has an exclusive space in 15 El Corte Ingles department stores around Spain and is also available in selected multi-brand shops around the UK.

JUNE/JULY 2019 - 09


CWB-ONLINE.CO | LEGAL ADVICE

OPEN TO BUSINESS BRINGING YOU STRAIGHT–TALKING LEGAL ADVICE

Stephen Sidkin is a partner at Fox Williams LLP www.fashionlaw.co.uk www.agentlaw.co.uk

DO YOU KNOW IF YOU HAVE ENTERED INTO AN AGREEMENT? Heads of Terms, Memoranda of Understanding, Letters of Intent, Heads of Agreement – the interchangeability of the names used is largely irrelevant. Brands and distributors and principals and agents sometimes agree Heads of Terms to formalise an intention to begin negotiation of a formal agreement and sometimes both parties proceed acting on those terms. But uncertainty can arise as to the terms that govern the relationship between the parties when the relationship breaks down before a formal agreement is put in place. This issue was highlighted in a recent High Court judgment. Heads of Terms had been drawn up to move the relationship of the two parties forward and away from an original Partnering Agreement. At trial, the agent sought to rely on these Heads of Terms as a new contract which governed the relationship with the principal. In contrast the principal argued that the Heads of Terms had no legal effect and that the relationship was still governed by the Partnering Agreement. For many, the facts will not come as a surprise. The parties had entered into a Partnering Agreement which commenced in May 2015. Following the success of this agreement the parties sought to create a new contract to solidify and carry the relationship forward. In order to commence this process the principal sent the agent draft Heads of Terms. They set out a general outline of what would be included in the formal agreement. The Heads of Terms were then negotiated between the two parties. During this time both parties began to rely on the provisions contained in the Heads of Terms. For example, the agent started to invoice the principal in line with the new pricing structure which was then paid by the principal. The Heads of Terms were signed by both parties on the 29 June 2016 after which there was a celebratory party! Importantly in this case the Heads of Terms set out: 1. that a formal contract would be agreed within 90 days of commencement of the Heads of Terms;

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2. a commencement date. But in the final version this was left blank. The judge considered this was in order for the parties to insert a date on the day the Heads of Terms were signed; 3. that the contract would be for a fixed term of three years with six monthly reviews; 4. that there would be standard termination rights for material breach by the agent or on remediable breach if the breach was not remedied in 10 days. Moreover, the principal was also able to terminate the agreement if after the six monthly reviews it notified the agent of a breach and that breach was not remedied in 14 days. 5. that the agent would exclusively provide its services to the principal for a set number of postcodes for which the agent would be remunerated on a weekly basis; 6. detailed performance targets which the agent would be required to meet; and 7. compliance standards that any agents working for the agent would need to meet. The judge decided that the Heads of Terms took effect as a valid contract when signed on the 29 June 2016 and were relied on by the parties as the new terms governing their relationship. The judge went on to decide that whilst in the Heads of Terms not all the terms of a contract had been agreed, the matters that had been negotiated were capable of constituting a contract. Finally the judge decided that both parties had implemented the Heads of Terms from the date that they were signed. The parties actions showed they were working under the belief and understanding that from that point their relationship was governed by the Heads of Terms. The difficulties in which the parties found themselves highlights that principals and agents and brands and distributors will invariably be in a better position relying on the certainty of an agreement rather than on Heads of Terms.

© 2019 Fox Williams LLP


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CWB-ONLINE.CO | RETAIL

RETAIL THERAPY We reveal our favourite independent boutiques, as well as news from the world of childrenswear retail. TIGER FIFTY 7 57 Cold Bath Road, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG2 0NL Best friends and mothers Georgie Simpson and Anna Lockwood opened the wonderfully named children’s store Tiger Fifty 7 in late January in the spa town of Harrogate. (The shop’s name is inspired by its address at number 57 and also the duo’s love of the role of tigers in children’s stories and play.) Ultimately, the aim of Tiger Fifty 7 is to bring “unique” and “inspiring” back to bricks and mortar shopping. It does this by concentrating on what matters when people actually shop - personal interaction, bringing the unknown and hard to find to local doorsteps, finding items that inspire, and bringing pleasure to shoppers and browsers. The focus of the stock, therefore, is on individual, hard to find items that are sourced from both small, independent suppliers right through to big name brands. In terms of product, Tiger Fifty 7 covers kids’ fashion, swimwear, footwear, accessories, educational toys, gifts and books for boys and girls age newborn up to 14 years. Currently the shop has over 50 brands on offer, with names including Bob & Blossom, Angulus, Sunny Life Australia, Little Lord and Lady, Mimi and Lula, Bling2o, Five Loaves Two

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Fish and Stella Cove. As well as wanting to create something a little edgy, Simpson and Lockwood work hard to produce a very warmly styled and welcoming store environment. Special touches for customers include complimentary prosecco for shopping mums and a ‘Tiger Den’ play area where children will find books, puzzles, movies and even an

indoor swing to keep them entertained. While the initial focus is on establishing the business, plans are in mind for the future. These include broadening Tiger Fifty 7’s reach online – the website also includes a great blog - as well as expanding locally and teaming up with affiliate partners such as kids’ play locations. www.tigerfiftyseven.co.uk


RETAIL | CWB-ONLINE.CO

Alex Treanor opened children’s footwear and clothing store Ollie & Phee in 2016. Her inspiration for the business - and her love of working with kids - came following her re-training as a secondary school teacher after having children. Ollie & Phee initially sold just footwear. However, it quickly branched out into children’s clothes and accessories and recently moved to larger premises to develop the range further. Brands stocked include Ricosta, Geox, Primigi, Petasil, Salt Water, Froddo, Noel, Dr Martens, Bobux, Hatley, Babymel, Kite, Toby Tiger and Madpax. Ollie & Phee works closely with the community, supporting many local charities and school events. Focuses for the year include the business’s new ecommerce website and possibly hosting children’s clothing parties and baby shower parties. This year will also mark Ollie & Phee’s final staff member becoming a fully qualified fitter with The Society of Shoe Fitters, with all of the remaining senior staff already qualified.

WEBWATCH REBEL PETAL www.rebelpetal.co.uk

NEWS

OLLIE & PHEE 49 High Street, Sandbach, Cheshire CW11 1AL www.ollieandphee.co.uk

Rebekah and Simon Davies launched Rebel Petal children’s boutique in February as a long-term project to work on together. Plus, with four children, they have a lot of knowledge to share. The website is designed to reflect the quality and variety of products as well as being engaging and user-friendly. It offers heritage, contemporary and organic clothing from 0 to 10 years, with key brands including Aurora Royal, Toby Tiger and Little Lord and Lady. The toy range specialises in Baby Stella from Manhattan Toy Company alongside lifestyle and stationery accessories from Tinc. Growth areas for the business include an own-brand range of organic clothing featuring bespoke prints designed in-house. The first collection is a legacy to the couple’s little girl, Tulip. It will be a charitable range with 4Louis, which supports anyone affected by miscarriage, stillbirth and child loss. In time, plans are to wholesale the ranges to boutiques and small businesses.

NEWS IN BRIEF Independent boutique parent and baby brand, JoJo Maman Bébé, has acquired Emma-Jane, the British maternity and nursing underwear brand. JoJo Maman Bébé has stocked Emma-Jane for 26 years alongside in-house designs. It will continue to sell Emma-Jane wholesale globally as well as stocking Emma-Jane online and in all 92 stores in the UK and Ireland, plus its four US branches.

British consumers’ love of online shopping is sending the courier and express delivery market into doubledigit growth according to new research from Mintel. Last year courier and express delivery sales increased 12% to reach £12.6 billion. Volume sales also increased by 14% alone in 2018. Top reasons Brits choose delivery over shopping in-store are cost (53%), ease of finding products online (51%), and greater variety (39%).

STEP2WO ADDS KIDSWEAR TO ITS WEBSITE After building a loyal following over the past 10 years, UK baby and children’s footwear etailer Step2wo.com has added clothing to its product mix. Previously specialising exclusively in footwear, Step2wo’s founders Nick and Lulu Rayne broadened the offer in response to customer demand to purchase entire outfits from the website. Popular names stocked include Gucci, Kenzo, Fendi, Balmain, Armani, Pucci, Stella McCartney and Burberry as well as lesser known labels such as Special Day, ValMax and Raspberry Plum.

CHILDRENSALON LAUNCHES OWN-BRAND DRESSES Designer childrenswear retailer, Childrensalon, has launched an own-brand dress collection available exclusively at Childrensalon.com. ‘Dresses by CHILDRENSALON’ offers a style and shape to suit all ages and occasions. From pretty hues of pink and springtime florals through to gold, silver and icy shades of blue. Expect classic lace details, pussy bow necklines and brocade as well as embroidered tulle, satin and pearls. Designed in-house, the range presents an 18-piece capsule collection of dresses for ages 4 to 16 years.

The Elf on the Shelf®, the brand based on the story of Santa’s magical Scout Elves, is seeing a surge in UK licenses in the run-up to Christmas 2019. New licensees are on board across a number of major categories including babywear, dress-up and publishing. New product will reach retail in Q4 in time for the festive season targeting boys and girls from toddlers up to 10-years as well as families.

JUNE/JULY 2019 - 13


CWB-ONLINE.CO | EDITOR’S PICK

02 01

BRANDS TO WATCH CWB EDITOR LAURA TURNER SELECTS THE MUST-HAVE COLLECTIONS TO GET IN STORE.

14 - JUNE/JULY 2019

01: COMPASS KIDS

02: FOLPETTO

Offering function over fashion, new label Compass Kids believes children’s clothing should facilitate play or rest and never restrict movement. It also believes in the power of immersion to encourage curiosity in kids, supporting their natural urge to discover the world. Catering for 2 to 10 years, the collection includes unstructured garments for free play, technical gear, engineered outerwear and accessories. Expect T-shirts, sweats, tops and bottoms as well as functional overalls, jackets and pants coupled with graphic prints and tactile thermo transfers. Wholesale prices £7.50 to £60. www.compasskids.co.uk

Camilla Brugnoli launched UK kids’ swimwear brand Folpetto in 2017. Being Italian, Brugnoli wanted the collection to capture the carefree, magical summers she spent as a child in Italy. Equally, she wanted children to look their best and above all else, be safe in the sun so that they can enjoy long, hot summers without damaging their skin. The result is Folpetto, a playful yet elegant collection of Italian designed, UV protection swimwear for boys and girls. Pieces include swimsuits, bikinis, swim shorts and long or short sleeve rash vests. Wholesale prices £15 to £20 per piece. www.folpetto.com


EDITOR’S PICK | CWB-ONLINE.CO

03

04

05 03: YOU N’ ME!

04: SMALL FRY

05: KIDSBURY

Designed and made in Poland, You N’ Me! offers organic and eco-friendly childrenswear for 3 to 12 years. Adopting the easy-going vibes of street fashion, garments feature hand-printed graphics focusing on the themes of nature and the world. You N’ Me! creates a few new collections per year, each of which offers a unique series of clothing. The aim is to give kids and tweens the opportunity to play with fashion and create their own styles for different occasions. All of the brand’s fabrics are GOTS certified and Oeko-Tex Standard 100. Wholesale prices on request. www.younme.pl

Having already launched a unisex streetwear brand for 18 to 25-year olds, this year sees Christian Gould introduce Small Fry, a kidswear label for 3 to 11 years. Small Fry’s designs are rooted in streetwear and include ribbon trims, bright colours and iconic designs. The launch range offers T-shirts, polos, sweatshirts and hoodies, all of which are organic and printed using water-based inks. The packaging is biodegradable and recyclable, too. Small Fry also uses 10 per cent of every sale to buy schoolwear, stationery and books for local children in need. Wholesale prices on request. www.smallfrystore.com

Kidsbury launched in March 2019 as a sustainable answer to beautiful and practical kids’ clothing. Its aim is to demonstrate that a fashion brand can act ethically, be kind to the planet and look after its employees without compromising on style. The collection for 0 to 12 years shuns gendered colours and styles, instead embracing a range of playful prints and colours to be worn by all. Using 100 per cent organic cotton and a minimalist, Scandinavian style, the collection spans babygros through to durable bomber jackets. Wholesale prices £7 to £25. www.kidsbury.com

JUNE/JULY 2019 - 15


CWB-ONLINE.CO | PRODUCT

LAURA LOVES

A IS FOR ALICE

SUNJELLIES

PINK LINING

Unicorn headband aisforalice1@gmail.com www.aisforalicecostumes.com

Jelly bags kelly@sunjellies.com www.sunjellies.com

Overnight bag Nicola@whleurope.com www.pinklining.com

THE BASKET ROOM

BON DEP

THE LITTLE SOCK COMPANY

Moses basket wholesale@thebasketroom.com www.thebasketroom.com

Hair accessories agency@breitensteins.com www.breitensteins.com

Socks and knitted elephant soft toy gift set katie@thelittlesockcompany.com www.thelittlesockcompany.com

16 - JUNE/JULY 2019


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CWB-ONLINE.CO | TRADE SHOWS

EXHIBITION CALENDAR CWB’s guide to the upcoming UK and international trade shows.

PITTI BIMBO

COOL KIDS FASHION

KID’S HUB LAS VEGAS BY PLAYTIME

20-22 JUNE 2019 Fortezza da Basso, Florence www.pittimmagine.com

24-26 JULY 2019 National Exhibition and Convention Center, Shanghai www.coolkidsfashion.com

12-14 AUGUST 2019 The Flamingo Hotel, Las Vegas www.gotokidshub.com

CBME CHINA

AUTUMN FAIR

24-26 JULY 2019 National Exhibition Center, Shanghai www.cbmexpo.com

1-4 SEPTEMBER 2019 NEC, Birmingham www.springfair.com

PLAYTIME TOKYO

TOP DRAWER

31 JULY – 2 AUGUST 2019 EBiS 303, Tokyo www.iloveplaytime.com

8-10 SEPTEMBER 2019 Olympia London www.topdrawer.co.uk

CHILDREN’S CLUB

KIND + JUGEND

4-6 AUGUST 2019 Pier 94, New York www.ubmfashion.com

19-22 SEPTEMBER 2019 Cologne Trade Fair Grounds, Cologne www.kindundjugend.com

MODA FOOTWEAR

BRAND LICENSING EUROPE

4-6 AUGUST 2019 NEC, Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk

1-3 OCTOBER 2019 ExCeL London www.brandlicensing.eu

BUBBLE AT PURE LONDON

PLAYTIME NEW YORK

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW

21-23 JULY 2019 Olympia London www.purelondon.com

4-6 AUGUST 2019 Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building, New York www.iloveplaytime.com

13-15 OCTOBER 2019 Cranmore Park, Solihull www.theschoolwearshow.co.uk

PLAYTIME PARIS 29 JUNE – 1 JULY 2019 Parc Floral, Paris www.iloveplaytime.com

INDX KIDSWEAR 30 JUNE – 1 JULY 2019 Cranmore Park, Solihull www.indxshow.co.uk

FIMI 5-7 JULY 2019 Recinto Ferial Ifema Pav 14, Madrid www.fimi.es

HOME & GIFT BUYERS’ FESTIVAL 14-17 JULY 2019 HCC and The Majestic Hotel grounds, Harrogate www.homeandgift.co.uk

PLAYTIME SHANGHAI 23-24 JULY 2019 Expo-I Pavilion, Shanghai www.iloveplaytime.com

18 - JUNE/JULY 2019

CIFF YOUTH 7-9 AUGUST 2019 Bella Center, Copenhagen www.ciff.dk

All dates correct at the time of going to print. Please contact organisers for further details before making travel arrangements.


OUT OF THE ORDINARY Our extraordinary and distinctive edit of all things kids gathers the most original design-led toys, interiors, gifts and childrenswear so you can create something out of the ordinary.

topdrawer.co.uk/CWB

8—10 SEPTEMBER 2019 OLYMPIA LONDON

Image Credits: Londji | Wee Gallery | S C Brands | Little Concepts

A/W 19


CWB-ONLINE.CO | SS20 COLOUR TRENDS

AWASH WITH COLOUR Colour and trends expert Fiona Coleman selects five important colour stories for s/s 20. www.fiona-coleman.com

SUNSET HUES:

LE MU

The importance of yellow and orange working alongside neutral pink grows for kidswear; used either singularly with earthy naturals or worn tonally together. These warm shades of ochre and sun-kissed coral emphasise the importance of natural pigments for a fun, summer festival vibe. Sustainability drives our increased fascination with natural materials and dyes.

ARI LONDON

VIGNETTE MĂœSLI

FRUGI

20 - JUNE/JULY 2019

LE MU

FRED’S WORLD

PURE BLUES: The time feels right for the re-emergence of classic, cool sky blue. Somewhat eclipsed in recent seasons by more LILLY AND SID fashion-focused blue/greens and purple-tinted pale blues, these straightforward, commercial and easy-to-wear shades work equally well across boys and girls. Paired with white, navy, grey and denim, it gives us the clarity we need in our crazy world.


SS20 COLOUR TRENDS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

TECH PASTELS:

PATACHOU FRED’S WORLD

KITE

A family of colours that is optimistic, showing a return to cooler, crisp pastels with a futuristic edge. Mixing equally well with whites or stronger accents, this new directional palette heralds the start of a new decade and a FRUGI positive feeling of energy. A sure-fire hit for sports-inspired product, it also invigorates summer occasionwear for girls as well as boys’ shirting and casual denim and jersey, where laundry experimentation is key.

BOTANICALS: Mineral tones complement soft, neutral greens, while purples are dusty and washed and sit alongside the newer gender-neutral pinks. All shades are inspired by summer florals that have been preserved and cherished. We also see pink and purple hybrids emerge with interesting pairings of flora and fauna. Across both boys and girls, this is a perfect palette for casualwear, prints and jersey. MÜSLI

ARI LONDON

ME & HENRY

ALIOLI KIDS

BIO-BRIGHTS:

KITE

The brights message this season is based in the natural rather than artificial world, with science and nature combining in an explosion of colour. We see experimentation with laboratory-based natural dyes using algae and lichen to produce fantastical shades. Meanwhile, tropical jungles and surreal sea life inspire abstract camouflage - somewhere between animal print and tie-dye.

LE MU

LILLY AND SID

FRED’S WORLD

JUNE/JULY 2019 - 21


CWB-ONLINE.CO | PREVIEW

PITTI BIMBO Pitti Bimbo, the leading international trade show for children’s fashion and lifestyles, returns for s/s 20 with new concepts and a focus on creativity and innovation.

The 89th edition of kids’ fashion trade exhibition, Pitti Bimbo, takes place at Fortezza da Basso, Florence on 20-22 June 2019. Presenting almost 600 brands over an area of 47,000 sq m, the event expects to attract in the region of 10,000 visitors. New for s/s 20 is the introduction of The Kid’s Lab!. Reflecting an increasingly precise segmentation of the fair, the colourful concept will provide a wide-ranging platform for experimental kidswear collections. Located on the top floor of the Main Pavilion, The Kid’s Lab! is the new destination for the show’s KidzFizz, #ActiveLab, The Nest, EcoEthic and Kid’s Evolution sections. Visitors will be able to collectively experience the experimental fashion of KidzFizz; the athletic-metropolitan dimension of #ActiveLab; the hotbed of budding brands in The Nest; the banner of sustainability flown by EcoEthic; and the mini capsule collections of Kid’s Evolution, all in one place. The Kid’s Lab! has been designed so that each show section retains its own distinctive DNA, yet also benefits from being part of a wider concept. The top floor of the Main Pavilion will also play host to two Pitti Bimbo projects dedicated to children’s illustration and publishing as well as a space dedicated to a selection of kidswear collections from Andalusia. Participating brands include Abuela Tata, Beatriz Montenero MBC, Babine, Calatea Kids, Mimosines and Nekenia. Alongside The Kid’s Lab!, Pitti Bimbo will also showcase designer labels and established brands such as the Armani Group, with its junior line of Emporio Armani. Other key names include Dolce & Gabbana, G-Star Raw and the CWF Group with the brands Little Marc Jacobs, Boss, Karl Lagerfeld and Billieblush 22 - JUNE/JULY 2019


PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

Visitors will also be able to experience the curated line-up of fashion and accessories collections within the show’s Apartment section; the dynamism of Sport Generation, and the urban soul of Superstreet. Pitti Bimbo’s lifestyle section, Fancy Room, also makes a return and will offer everything from interior décor though to toys. Brands making their Fancy Room debut this season include Meri Meri and Maileg. S/s 20 will also mark a new series of open and communal spaces for exhibitions, editorial projects and events involving buyers, press and influencers. As always, Pitti Bimbo has numerous special events scheduled, from catwalk shows and entertainment through to meetings, conferences and opportunities for debate. Taking place at the Fortezza this season includes the Pitti Immagine catwalk show on 21 June, which will present a selection of exclusive collections from the show’s Apartment section. Other catwalks include Children’s Fashion from Spain as well as those of the brands Natural Angel, Manila Grace and Stefania. Finally, to mark its 50th anniversary, premium childrenswear brand Monnalisa will be hosting a special catwalk show-event to present its new s/s 20 collection. Pitti Bimbo 20-22 June 2019, Fortezza da Basso, Florence www.pittimmagine.com

JUNE/JULY 2019 - 23


30 JUNE-1 JULY 2019 THE LARGEST KIDSWEAR TRADE SHOW IN THE UK

Over 200 brands

A bespoke trade show for all independent retailers

REGISTER NOW www.indxshow.co.uk

Cranmore Park Conference & Event Centre, Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull, B90 4LF T: 0121 683 1415


A BESPOKE TRADE SHOW FOR ALL INDEPENDENT RETAILERS

INDX KIDSWEAR SS20 30 JUNE - 1 JULY 2019

WWW.TUTTOPICCOLO.COM

eperez@grupotuttopiccolo.com

OVER 200 BRANDS MANY EXCLUSIVE TO INDX KIDSWEAR

Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre, Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull Call 0121 683 1415

Register now: www.indxshow.co.uk


CWB-ONLINE.CO | PREVIEW

INDX KIDSWEAR This season’s edition of INDX Kidswear, the UK’s largest childrenswear trade show for independent retailers, will present a sell-out event with over 200 brands across four showrooms. Marking its biggest show to date, s/s 20 will see INDX Kidswear offer buyers more than 200 brands when it returns to Cranmore Park, Solihull on 30 June to 1 July 2019. To meet demand for space the event has opened a fourth showroom, a move that has enabled it to introduce a number of small, emerging brands. Labels included in the new space include Calatea, Floc Baby, Scootasoot, The Little Sock Company and TwinkleDust. This season’s event will also play host to 50 first-time exhibitors, with those making their INDX Kidswear debut including A for Alice, Byblos, Dotty Dungarees, Jacob Matthews, One We like, The Bonnie Mob and The Middle Daughter. Commenting on INDX Kidswear’s rapid expansion is show organiser, Varsha Chohan. “Last year saw the opening of a second showroom and the brand offering increasing to over 150. February 2019 bought further expansion into a third showroom and the brand line-up increased to 200. Due to the demand from brands, we are very excited for the opening of a fourth showroom for July 2019. This gives us the capacity to offer over 200 brands to visiting independent buyers.” Other areas of growth for the show are the categories of boyswear and footwear. Buyers will find strong boyswear offerings from brands such as Antony Morato, Bench, Compass Kids, Jack & Jones, Kids Only and Ruff & Huddle. In footwear, meanwhile, new names include Bobux @ The Bonnie Mob, Ipanema, Mayoral Shoes, Meduse, Old Soles, Tinyteo, Zaxy and Zoojoy. This is alongside returning footwear names such as Chipmunks, Inch Blue and Tinny Shoes, as well as numerous christening brands offering special occasion footwear. As well as the host of new additions, INDX Kidswear will once again welcome back numerous returning brands. For s/s 20 these include Abel & Lula, Agatha Ruiz De La Prada, Balloon Chic, Frugi, Hatley, Kissy Kissy, Kite, Lilly and Sid, Little Lord & Lady, Milon, Nanai, Petit Bateau, Rachel Riley and Tutto Piccolo. INDX Kidswear, 30 June - 1 July 2019, Cranmore Park, Solihull www.indxshow.co.uk

A IS FOR ALICE

26 - JUNE/JULY 2019

THE MIDDLE DAUGHTER

BYBLOS

JACK & JONES JUNIOR


PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

OLD SOLES

DOTTY DUNGAREES

CAMBRASS

EXHIBITOR LIST A for Alice • A*Dee • Aardvark Babywear • Abel & Lula • Abuela Tata • Agatha Ruiz De La Prada • Aigner • Albetta • All About Emma • Amaya • Angel’s Face • Antonio Villini • Antony Morato • Anya Rae • Artesania Chari • Artesania Granlei • Artie • Azul De Colibri • Babidu • Babine • Baby Gi • Babybol • Baja Costura • Balloon Chic • Beatrice & Bee • Beau KiD • Bebe Bombom • Bella Bambini • Bench • Best Years • Billy Loves Audrey • Blade & Rose • B’Lovely • Blue Seven • Bluebelle • Blues Baby • Bobux @ The Bonnie Mob • Bogoleta Couture • Bon Dep • Bonds • Bowtique London • Bubabloon • Bufi • Byblos • Calamaro • Calatea Kids • Cambrass • Caramelo Kids • Carlomagno Socks • Ceyber • Chamomile Baby • Cheeky Chimp • Cheeky Chompers • Childrens Empire • Chipmunks Footwear • Chua • Clemencita • Coco • Cocote • Compass Kids • Country Kids • Cutey Couture • Cutey Pie • Dadati • Daga • Dandelion • DOT • Dotty Dungarees • Dr Kid • Dulce Nena • EMC • Emile et Rose • Fabelab • Flapjack Kids • Floc Baby • Freds World • Frugi • Grass & Air • Grendha • Hatley • Heritage • Hype • iDO • Inch Blue • InCity Kids • Ipanema • Irpa • Jack & Jones Junior • Jacob Matthews • Jam Jam • Jammie Doodles • Jim Jamz • John Richmond • Jose Varon • Juliana • Just Lovely • Just Too Cute • KCL • Kidiwi • Kids Central • Kids Only • Kidunk • Kissy Kissy • Kite Clothing • Kris x Kids • Lilly and Sid • Lister & Bruce • Little Annie Bets • Little Darlings Ceremony • Little Fella • Little Giants • Little Green Radicals • Little Lord & Lady • Lola + Blake • Losan • Lulujo • Magnolia Baby • Maria Bardallo • MarMar Copenhagen • Mayoral • Mayoral Newborn • Mayoral Shoes • Me and Henry • Meduse • Meia Pata • Milon • Mini-la-Mode • Mintini • Mitch and Son • MP Denmark • Musli • MuzlinZ • My Little Chick • Nanai • Newness • Nibbling • Nico Dingo • Noa by Azul de Colibri • Nursery Time • Old Soles • One We Like • Patachou • Pebble • Pesci Baby • Pesci Kids • Peter Jo Kids • Peter Rabbit • Petit Bateau • Phi Clothing • Piccalilly • Piccola Speranza • Pigeon • Poco Nido • Powell Craft • Premier Designs • Pretty Originals • Purete • Rachel Riley • Rahigo • Rapife • Refrigiwear • Relish • Ricittos • Rider • Rochy • Rosita • Ruff & Huddle • Sardon • Scootasoot • Sevva • Sheldon • Snuggle Baby • Steiff Clothing, Accessories and Plush Toys • Sweet Elegance • Tartaleta • Teeny Tiny • The Bonnie Mob • The Little Sock Company • The Little Tailor • The Middle Daughter • The Oxford Shirt Company • Tiny Baby • TinyTeo • TNY by Tinny shoes • Toby Tiger • Tutto Piccolo • Twinkledust • Under the Nile • Vandoma • Vignette • Vivaki and Visara • Watch Me Grow • Wedoble • Weekend a La Mer • Zaxy • Ziggle • Zoocchini • Zoojoy

ANTONY MORATO

ME AND HENRY

RUFF & HUDDLE

AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA

JUNE/JULY 2019 - 27


Contact 0141 552 5970 or 0797 315 7434 or molloy@picturebook fashion.com


Contact 0141 552 5970 or 0797 315 7434 or molloy@picturebook fashion.com


CWB-ONLINE.CO | PREVIEW

WILD & WOLF

LIGA

HOME & GIFT BUYERS’ FESTIVAL CWB takes a look at lifestyle trade show, Home & Gift Buyers’ Festival, which is set to present its largest ever children’s offering when it returns to Harrogate in July.

Last year it was reported that Brits are spending £200 million more on children’s gifts than the previous generation; emphasising just how important a robust, festive trade is, even more so in these harder times for the retail industry. With its largest and strongest children’s offering to date, Harrogate’s Home & Gift Buyers’ Festival on 14-17 July 2019 will host a variety of big names and emerging design; from old favourites such as Jellycat through to new entries including Cornwall-based lifestyle brand Liga, which recently added

HALILIT

30 - JUNE/JULY 2019

childrenswear to its eco-friendly range. For those who may not be familiar with Home & Gift, it is a favourite amongst retailers and exhibitors within the lifestyle retail sector; known for both its business opportunities and relaxed social atmosphere for nearly 60 years. Presenting over 800 exhibitors, more than 150 of which are brand new to the show, visiting buyers can discover gifts, greetings and stationery, interior accessories, homeware, food, fashion and jewellery in over 10 different halls and marquees within the

POWELL CRAFT

LITTLE CONCEPTS


PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

WEE GALLERY

GINGER RAY

grounds of the newly renovated Majestic Hotel. Of the show’s crucial place in the buying calendar, Home & Gift show director Louise Morris, comments: “There’s no denying that in the current climate buying patterns are changing; not to mention, in a social media-driven world, consumer trends and tastes are shifting faster than ever before. “By providing a great trade opportunity in summer, the pressure of making financially cumbersome purchasing decisions in January is removed—giving retailers the opportunity to analyse their first six months of trade and make strategic purchasing decisions ahead of the vital Christmas period. For exhibitors, there is the great benefit of being able to have summer product launches to ensure year-round buzz, as well as presenting bestsellers with firm facts and figures from the first half of the year.” In addition to an improved show layout, another key change for the event is the implementation of new online networking tools which, once registered, allow visitors to access a visitor login portal via the show’s brand-new website. Here, buyers they can explore and save exhibitors as well as request more information and plan pre-arranged meetings at the click of a button.

JENNIFER KELLETT ILLUSTRATION

Those looking for even more from their trip can gain insight from the show’s most high-profile speaker line-up to date. ShopTalk will present a roster of case study presentations, masterclasses, hands-on clinics and panel discussions featuring the likes of Sophie Conran; entrepreneur and former Dragon, Piers Linney; author and designer, Pearl Lowe; jewellery designer and reality star, Rosie Fortescue; The Galvin Brothers’ Matthew Galvin; and John Lewis’s Emma Greendale. The full ShopTalk schedule can be found on the Home & Gift website, with more names to be added in coming weeks. With 2019 expected to be an exciting year for the show, Morris adds: “There are many reasons that Home & Gift is one of the industry’s best-loved events for both visitors and exhibitors. For 2019, we’ve enhanced all of the elements that make the show such a special place to make meaningful connections and do genuine business to ensure an unforgettable buying experience for all.” Registration for Home & Gift is now open. For more information visit homeandgift.co.uk. Visitors are encouraged to book accommodation as soon as possible to avoid disappointment. Home & Gift Buyers’ Festival 14-17 July 2019, Harrogate www.homeandgift.co.uk

JELLYCAT

BEST YEARS

THREADBEAR DESIGN

SNAPPY CROCODILE

JUNE/JULY 2019 - 31


CWB-ONLINE.CO | PREVIEW

BUBBLE AT PURE LONDON Pure London’s vision for its Festival of Fashion continues for s/s 20 with the development of kidswear section, Bubble at Pure London. Catering for style-conscious parents, this growing category will present a curated selection of kids’ fashion, accessories and maternity collections as well as inspirational catwalk presentations.

BUBBLE AT PURE LONDON CATWALK

Brand highlights from this season’s Bubble at Pure London include Kidsbury, which offers premium, ethically made children’s clothing. The brand’s s/s 20 collection takes the theme of ‘Marine Navigator’, with corresponding colours, prints and fabric patterns. Kidsbury uses only GOTS organic cotton and GOTS Egyptian organic cotton to create predominately unisex styles for 0 to 3 months up to 12 years. Childrenswear brand You N’ Me! will also be joining the show for s/s 20. Designed and made in Poland using only organic and eco-friendly textiles - all of which are GOTS certified and 32 - JUNE/JULY 2019

Oeko-Tex Standard 100 - the brand for 3 to 12 years features hand-printed graphics highlighting the themes of nature, the world and its secrets. Meanwhile, fellow Polish brand Bexa will present its offer of hats and clothing for children and babies. Collections combine fairy-tale mysteries with the atmosphere of adventure and include handmade shoes, comfortable trousers, caps and stylish accessories. Flying the flag for UK manufacturing is sustainable brand Lola Starr, which offers children’s clothing featuring detachable and interchangeable sleeves. Children can mix and match a range of long, short and flouncy sleeves in a choice of colours, textures and fabrics, with seasonal versatility ensuring the clothes last longer. Elsewhere, Yumster will be offering its line of kidswear for 6 to 14 years. Blurring the line between girls and boys, the brand provides a wide variety of fun, mix and match options that allow children to express their personal style and charisma. Collections include printed T-shirts, dresses, shorts, pants and hoodies. Portuguese brand Ativo, which caters from 6 months up to 16 years, will also present buyers with a wide variety of products and colours across versatile garments. Attention to detail, the monitoring of trends and commitment to quality are core to Ativo’s collection. Hatley joins the show with its new s/s 20 collection, which is driven by an inherent love of nature and adventure. Highlights include intricate embroideries, finely braided trimmings and hand-drawn prints to create looks that transcend trends and support longevity of wear. Annafie’s latest collection, meanwhile, puts a contemporary twist on some of its classic styles and bestsellers. New florals and brighter colours combine with picture-style embroideries and traditional smocking. Dedicated to making crafted future heirloom pieces, Annafie’s attention to detail includes lining in all dresses and fabric covered buttons. Bringing over 35 years of experience in the industry to Bubble this season is childrenswear brand Alitsa. The brand ethos is characterised by a profound sense of craftsmanship and an all-inclusive offering, allowing multiple combinations for diverse, elegant and imaginative outfits for 2 to 16 years. For those seeking children’s footwear there is Australian brand Old Soles. The company’s philosophy is simple: style, comfort and protection for growing little feet and to let the children of the world play in style. Old Soles draws the best of adult catwalks from around the globe, translating these ideas into fashion for little feet. Bubble at Pure London 21-23 July 2019, Olympia London • www.purelondon.com


PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

ANNAFIE

KIDSBURY

OLD SOLES

YOU N’ ME!

BEXA

ATIVO

YUMSTER

LOLA STARR

JUNE/JULY 2019 - 33


CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

NEW MARKETS FOR OLD SOLES Australian children’s footwear brand, Old Soles, has its sights set on the UK. Vicki Lever, the brand’s founder and designer, discusses plans for the business, including what’s in store for s/s 20. Laura Turner: Old Soles recently took on a UK agent? Vicki Lever: Yes, Mark Collins has joined us as European sales manager. Having worked in the UK footwear market for more than two decades, we are thrilled to have Mark’s seasoned perspective growing Old Soles’ presence across Europe. LT: What’s the brand’s current distribution? VL: Over the past 11 years, Old Soles has seen incredible global growth. As just a few examples, the brand sells to the US, South Korea, Japan, Israel, the United Arab Emirates, China, Indonesia, Poland and of course, Australia. LT: What are the plans for Old Soles’ UK distribution? VL: Old Soles is a great fit for retailers looking for a bold, simple, fashion-led, iconic brand within a contemporary palette. One that will stand out in a very frilly, pastel kiddy world. As a brand, we value each and every partnership and do everything we can to lead them to success with our product. We want more retailers across the UK to share our passion for the intricate craft of shoemaking fused with the newness of street culture. The result is uber-cool with a value parents can’t resist. LT: How many UK accounts does the brand currently have? VL: Although our UK orders are just ramping up, I’m proud to say we already have some of the top children’s retailers stocking for 34 - JUNE/JULY 2019


INTERVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

a/w 19; to name a few these include Bentalls, Biff, Childrensalon, Fenwicks, Kidly, Ollipops, Paul Byron and Step2wo. We also have a very aggressive strategy for the s/s 20 collection, partnering with lots more independent footwear specialists, children’s clothing boutiques, chains, department stores and online retailers. LT: Can you tell me more about the collection? VL: I’ve always been obsessed with fashion—what’s in, what’s hot, what people are wearing and what they’ve left behind. Studying the catwalks, celeb style and collaborations of late, it’s obvious that kids - and their parents - don’t just want cute anymore; they want couture. That’s what inspired the launch of Old Soles, an elevated brand that is first to market with the coolest styles in children’s footwear. The details, colours, materials and textures used in each collection are always in line with trends happening in adult fashion, all without ever sacrificing the high standards of quality needed for developing feet. The style of our range changes seasonally, but the designs are always centred on high fashion. Whether it’s first-walkers, cool kicks for school or striking, special occasion designs, Old Soles delivers style and comfort. Because let’s be honest, when you’re five years old, you don’t care what shoes you’re wearing as long as they allow you to play, climb, jump and pretend to be a unicorn or a dinosaur. However, each season Old Soles gives mums and dads the opportunity to put their little ones in fashionable designs they’re personally excited about. That means chic styles for every occasion, which often can be dressed up or down. LT: What are some of the bestselling styles? VL: We are well known for our soft, flexible pre-walkers. As our babies grew bigger, so did we, moving into our Pave collection. Even with a big toe bumper, we still manage to make these styles look cool. And of course, our sneaker range always has wow factor, with our high-tops taking centre stage. LT: Are there any key features or technologies the shoes offer? VL: We hone in on the specific features needed for each age sector

to promote the healthy development of growing feet. For instance, baby and toddler shoes are styled around the barefoot concept. This means lots of wiggle room and super soft soles to avoid damaging babies’ delicate cartilage. Not to mention, our signature leather not only keeps our shoes fashionable, but it’s also butter-soft and safety-tested for infants through to kids, too. Old Soles also designs with lots of easy-to-wear “do-it-yourself ” elements like elastic laces, zippers and Velcro to make fashion fun and user-friendly for all. LT: What sets the brand apart from its competitors? VL: Old Soles maintains its integrity and introduces exciting newness with each collection. Being the designer and working trade shows I hear lots of valuable feedback from customers that I apply to future collections. That’s how we ensure our designs fulfill our customers’ cravings season after season. LT: What can we expect from the s/s 20 collection? VL: Sneakers, sneakers, sneakers! The fashion industry is infatuated with sneakers, the essential catwalk item of late. As a result, we’ve capitalised on the craze by throwing neon and sporty leathers in the mix to give our sneakers a real urban slant. We’ve also fused glam and metallic leathers with our exclusive stingray print leather something you won’t want to miss. LT: Will the s/s 20 collection be available to view at any UK trade shows? VL: Yes, we’ve already confirmed INDX Kidswear in Solihull and Moda in Birmingham. LT: What are your plans for the brand? VL: Now that Mark has joined the team, we are most excited to have someone on the ground in Europe. We see a lot of potential to grow our business there. Beyond that, Old Soles will continue to stay ahead of the game in fashion—always keeping inspired and anticipating what’s next. www.oldsoles.com.au

JUNE/JULY 2019 - 35


CWB-ONLINE.CO | REPORT

ARE CLOTHING BRANDS PREPARED FOR THE DEMANDS OF ECO-CONSCIOUS PARENTS? Market intelligence resource, The Insights People, discusses the rise of eco-conscious parents and how their interest in vegan and ethical lifestyles is affecting purchasing decisions for children’s clothes. This generation of parents is eco-friendlier than ever before. Over 75 per cent of new and expecting parents are now millennials and they - and their children - are demanding more from brands than ever before. The rise of eco-conscious new parents known as Generation Responsible - has brought with it an increase in the popularity of veganism. Data from Parents Insights shows over 50 per cent of parents now buy local or free-range foods when shopping for groceries, and four in ten seek out eco-friendly products. Veganism is closely linked to age and income – 17 per cent of over-35s said they actively purchase vegan products, but the figure is lower for younger age groups. Salary is a factor here, as vegan alternatives are still dearer than their dairy or meat-based counterparts when it comes to grocery shopping. Supermarkets have been quick to acknowledge the trend and the aisle space dedicated to vegan and eco-friendly products is now bigger than ever, but what can children’s clothing brands do to cater to this growing demographic?

FOCUS ON ETHICAL CREDENTIALS If they are not already doing so, clothing brands of all sizes need to be putting their ethical credentials front and centre of their marketing campaigns. For smaller boutique brands that may be unable to compete with bigger companies on price, focusing on the quality of materials used – such as ethically-sourced cotton or vegan alternatives to leather – can be key to getting their voice heard. Smaller manufacturers that have greater visibility of their supply chains have an advantage in that they can be more agile when it comes to incorporating eco-friendly materials into their products – where feasible. Parents Insights data shows parents are already turning their attention elsewhere when it comes to purchasing clothes for their child. All of the top 10 clothing retailers fell in popularity during 2018, with the likes of Asda, H&M and Next seeing a steady decline during all four 36 - JUNE/JULY 2019

quarters. One notable gain seen outside of the top 10 was Selfridges. Sitting in 17th place in the list, the high-end department store was one of only three retail brands more popular at the end of 2018 than it was at the beginning of the year. Interest in eco-friendly and vegan lifestyles is only likely to increase in the coming months, especially with the pursuits of activist groups like Extinction Rebellion keeping climate change in the public consciousness. Provided they have the capability to do so, boutique clothing brands are well placed to capitalise on this and tap into the market of consumers who are looking beyond the big high street brands when shopping for children’s clothes. This is just one example of how this generation of parents is like no other. To download a complimentary report from Parents Insights, visit www.parentsinsights.co.uk/cwb.

ABOUT THE INSIGHTS PEOPLE The Insights People surveys more than 400 different children and 200 expecting and new parents across the UK, plus a further 1,200 different children across five countries. This enables it to provide an unrivalled insight into the kids’, parents and family ecosystem and a comprehensive understanding of their attitudes, behaviours and consumption through its Kids Insights and Parents Insights products.

113-115 Portland Street, Manchester, M1 6DW or call +44 (0) 330 159 6631



CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

KIDSWEAR COLLECTIVE: WHERE LUXURY AND SUSTAINABILITY UNITE Shoshana Kazab, founder of specialist baby and kids’ PR consultancy Fuse Communications, discusses her latest project, Kidswear Collective, a new online platform bridging the gap between pre-loved and past season designer children’s clothes and a first-hand, luxury shopping experience.

Laura Turner: Can you explain the concept of Kidswear Collective and what inspired you to launch the business? Shoshana Kazab: Kidswear Collective is an online store selling pre-loved and past season designer kids’ fashion where items are sold at up to 80 per cent off their original retail price. I wanted to find a way to create something very special which could address our urgent need to reduce waste in the fashion industry, but also make available designer pieces at affordable prices. LT: Where do you source the pre-loved items? SK: We work with influencers who have their own page on the website. As the founder of Fuse Communications, a PR agency specialising in the luxury childrenswear market, I’m very fortunate to have worked with the top influencers and some of the best brands. Influencers have a huge fan base, so having them involved means their followers can shop their favourite looks and can also be alerted when new pieces arrive. It’s a real coming together of the industry, which is why we called it a ‘collective’; it’s a great way for us to all support each other. Influencers on the site include The Fashion Bug Blog, Masha The One, Sofia Gouveia and Deborah Brett. When The Fashion Bug Blog’s pre-loved page went live, eight out of her 11 items sold within the first hour. LT: How do you curate the pre-loved edit and what happens to the garments you don’t use? SK: Anyone can sell on the site, however, all 38 - JUNE/JULY 2019

items must pass Kidswear Collective’s ‘eight-step inspection process’ to ensure only the highest quality pieces are stocked. Any unsold items are donated to the family charity, Little Village. We also donate up to five per cent of every item sold to the NSPCC. LT: How about the past season stock? Where is this sourced? SK: We initially approached Fuse Communications’ clients to see if they would be interested in selling past season stock including brands like Patachou, Wild & Gorgeous and Little Wardrobe London. Since then we have been lucky enough to be directly approached by brands and retailers keen to give us their old stock; especially as we store it for them, keeping their stockrooms and warehouses free for new season collections. We also source samples from agents, PRs and garments featured in photoshoots. LT: How often do you add new stock? SK: It literally comes in all the time, which is really important, as it ensures customers come back to the site regularly to check what’s come in. We also send regular mail-outs informing customers of new arrivals. LT: What age range and product categories do you cover? SK: At present we cover birth to 14 years, but we are considering adding some maternity pieces to the site as well as more baby accessories; babywear is one of our most popular categories.

The categories we cover are baby, boy and girl, with subcategories relating to the type of product and size. The website is really simple to navigate and customers can also easily choose from pre-loved or past season items. LT: How many brands do you currently have on the website? SK: We can’t believe we already have more than 100 brands on the site, with over 1,500 pieces of stock. Bestselling labels include Burberry, Gucci, Chloe and Moncler, but one of the great things about working with influencers is that they introduce customers to some lesser known brands they may not have heard of yet. LT: What is your discounting strategy? SK: All items are at least 55 per cent off the original retail price, with some pre-loved garments selling for 80 per cent off their original price. We offer first-time customers 20


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“ A POPULAR HASHTAG CURRENTLY TRENDING IS #30WEARS, WHICH ENCOURAGES US TO WEAR OUR GARMENTS AT LEAST 30 TIMES. WITH A DESIGNER KIDS’ PIECE, WE ESTIMATE IT IS WORN ONLY SIX TIMES ON AVERAGE BEFORE A CHILD GROWS OUT OF IT. THIS MEANS THERE ARE FOUR MORE POTENTIAL OWNERS FOR THAT ONE GARMENT.”

year. In Britain alone we are expected to throw away 235 million items of clothing this year. A popular hashtag currently trending is #30wears, which encourages us to wear our garments at least 30 times. With a designer kids’ piece, we estimate it is worn only six times on average before a child grows out of it. This means there are four more potential owners for that one garment. There has never been a better or more important time to change the way we shop, but without having to compromise on quality

per cent off their first order as well as a customer referral scheme and flash sales at certain items. LT: How do you create a ‘first-hand experience’ for buyers? SK: Providing a first-hand experience was a key consideration for us. Every garment is cleaned, photographed and carefully stored until it is sold and sent out in Kidswear Collective’s luxe signature packaging. We want shopping on Kidswear Collective to feel like a luxury experience, similar to what you’d get when shopping on sites like The Outnet and Farfetch. By professionally photographing each garment, customers have a clear idea and confidence in the quality of each item. This is reflected in our lower than average returns rate at less than five per cent compared to the industry average of around 40 per cent. When the purchase arrives, all beautifully packaged, it generates the same level of excitement as it would

when shopping on any other luxury website. LT: Do you ship globally? SK: Yes, we do. We are amazed at how many international orders we have already had and again, that is a testament to the global reach of our influencers. We regularly ship to the US but also have customers in Belgium, France, Finland and as far afield as Japan. LT: A recent report by the Soil Association revealed pre-loved clothing sales grew by 22.5 per cent in 2018. Is the sustainable element of Kidswear Collective something you heavily promote? SK: Absolutely, we are passionate about extending the lifecycle of luxury clothes. Sustainability has never played more on our minds than it does now. Of the 80 billion pieces of clothing produced worldwide, it is estimated 75 per cent of these will end up in landfill each

LT: How do you engage with customers? SK: Instagram is a key platform for us; in fact, it is how we launched the website. We asked all of our influencers to post stories sharing their page on Kidswear Collective with their followers, which really helped put the website on the map. We also send regular mail-outs to customers informing them about new arrivals and new influencer collections. Our influencers regularly post stories about their page on their own Instagram accounts, too. LT: What are the plans for the business? SK: We wanted to take the first few months to understand what sells best and how to price the products. I think we’re in a strong position now to scale up the business quite quickly as the trend in buying second-hand clothing is only going to increase. We’ve built a solid foundation for the platform so we’ll be looking to add more brands and more sellers to the site. We are already looking at a partner in the US and have had some initial conversations with a group of investors who are very experienced in the fashion-tech sector. www.kidswearcollective.com JUNE/JULY 2019 - 39


LEFT TO RIGHT: TESS GEE LAURA DAY AND KATE HEATON

CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

HOW TO SURVIVE AND THRIVE AS A YOUNG INDEPENDENT RETAILER Tess Gee, co-founder of Manchester’s award-winning kids’ concept store Our Kid, shares honest insight into the critical early years of an independent retail business and her top tips for survival.

Laura Turner: What are the key challenges currently facing bricks and mortar kidswear independents? Tess Gee: When it comes to running a bricks and mortar kidswear store, I think the biggest challenge is facing up to the disconnect between the dream versus reality. Or, as one sold-up indie friend of ours said, “Working harder than you’ve ever worked for the least money you’ve ever earned”. I’m sure that like many we were shocked to see the likes of the FMLY Store close its physical shop and Home & Kids Shop step back from kidswear. These were trailblazing, multi-concept stores that made it look so easy. Not to mention 40 - JUNE/JULY 2019

many ecommerce retailers simply shutting up shop. It’s a reality check. Scratch beneath the shiny, social media veneer of a typical kidswear store and you’ll find issues such as VAT thresholds, business rates and intense competition from the high street placing increased pressure on profit margins. And, like kids, these stores are so very demanding on your time. To succeed you have to bring your brands to life, spark joy, and deliver something your customers won’t find in Next. All this takes time and huge amounts of energy. I can empathise with any independent retailer that has found the demands of this type of business too much for

too little return. However, I strongly believe that with the right vision, there is still scope to run a thriving physical store. LT: What do feel are the main pitfalls for a new independent? TG: Probably over committing to seasonal stock and not identifying core ranges that have ‘evergreen’ potential throughout the year. We have a finite amount of space in which to merchandise and store our products and it’s made us more ruthless over the years about which labels to keep backing and which to phase out. It’s also so tempting to focus on what other retailers are doing and think you should be


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following the same path. The buzz of premium brands with sky-high minimums might lead you into investing heavily in edgy collections. But before you buy, take time to get to know your customers and be realistic about what they will buy into – whether that’s price point or wearability. Some of our most directional labels have ended up being the most discounted. LT: As an award-winning retailer, what survival tips can you share? TG: Be realistic about what the business means to you and how it’s going to work around your own family life. One of the more unusual decisions we’ve made as a team of three mums is to close for large periods during the school holidays, especially in summer. It’s a brutal truth that you could stand in your shop for the whole of August and only see a handful of customers each day, not breaking even, whilst spending a fortune on childcare. When working on a hyper-local level, you will feel the impact of schools being closed, baby groups taking a break and a general shift in habits during the holiday period. We think it’s

LT: How have you found juggling a bricks and mortar store with the ecommerce website? TG: Our website continues to offer us the greatest opportunity for growth and it is set to take a precedent in terms of focus and resource over the next 12 months. We’re in the process of reviewing the whole customer experience journey, from newsletter sign-up to packaging. No area of the website will be left untouched. The physical store provides us with a compelling identity and leverage for online. Harnessing our unique point of difference in a massively saturated ecommerce landscape is going to be key to bringing the two sales channels in-sync from a turnover and brand identity perspective. LT: Would you recommend incorporating a multi-functional space within a shop? TG: Our Kid being both a shop with a café has given us huge scope for building a community that uses the space for both shopping and socialising. This combination gives us great footfall and helped to foster a deeper, emotional connection to the people who visit regularly. Without the café we would see a massive

“ SCRATCH BENEATH THE SHINY, SOCIAL MEDIA VENEER OF A TYPICAL KIDSWEAR STORE AND YOU’LL FIND ISSUES SUCH AS VAT THRESHOLDS, BUSINESS RATES AND INTENSE COMPETITION FROM THE HIGH STREET PLACING INCREASED PRESSURE ON PROFIT MARGINS.” worth taking the hit on income to prioritise the lifestyle benefits of our business. In fact, we make it a big part of our storytelling. Remember, you are not Topshop. Flexible working applies to independent retailers just as much as it does to office workers. LT: At what point did Our Kid ‘break the pain barrier’? TG: I think we are still in the grip of the pain barrier when it comes to the level of reinvestment, both financially and in terms of our time to keep this business growing. While there’s definitely a sense of us entering a new phase as we reach the three-year milestone of our physical store - and six years of trading as Our Kid online - I can honestly say we have come as close as we’ve ever been to giving up this year. It’s only a deep-rooted love for our brand and a sense of ‘If not this, what?’ that spurred us into sticking with Our Kid and finding the energy to just keep going. I think that’s all we can do as small businesses, just keep on going. Some of the retailers that we respect highly have demonstrated you don’t experience success during these early years; it’s seven or eight years down the line when you might hit your stride. We’re in it for the long haul.

reduction in dwell time. I can’t imagine not knowing our regulars in the way we do – a real benefit of bonding over coffee. On the flipside, the multi-functional approach means you might be running one, two or even three different businesses under one roof, which is complex. While we see the benefit of events to our bottom line, we have scaled back some of the less commercially driven collaborations in favour of retail-led, brand focussed experiences. We like to give our customers the opportunity to get to know the people behind the brands we stock. It’s a winning formula when product, personality and perhaps a cheeky gin cocktail collide. LT: How much do you invest in marketing? TG: Time is our main investment and we have always worked very strategically with like-minded collaborators and brands to market the business in a progressive and unconventional way. We see enormous value in partnering with off-site events such as Pregnant Then Screwed Live. It brings together a compelling mix of influential speakers from the parenting community while we provide an aligned retail experience selling brands that convey the spirit of the festival. I think this new mood of marketing is something that we can

thank the collaborative spirit of Instagram for. We do dabble in paid social campaigns but see these more as a positioning tool rather than a sales driver. LT: How do you ensure your store remains exciting and innovating? TG: It’s vital that we keep our eye on emerging trends and not just in kidswear, but also within the wider retail landscape. I believe that the new mood of retail is to embrace your customers’ lifestyle and understand that shoppers want to step inside a curated store that brings their Pinterest boards and Instagram feeds to life. If we’re inspired, we can convey that to our customers in the new brands we launch in-store and most importantly, love in our own lives. LT: Do you have any tips for integrating into the local community? TG: We’re lucky to live and operate in a very close-knit community that’s full of families. We do our best to acknowledge dates and occasions that will resonate with our customers, whether it’s a celebration of sisterhood on International Women’s Day or the gesture of a free hot drink with every purchase during our big sale events. Creating a warm, welcoming atmosphere that is inclusive and memorable is key to maintaining our positive impact on the community. Our Kid is not just a shop, it’s a home from home for many of our regulars. LT: Are you involved in any local business groups? TG: Yes, we’re members of Chorlton Traders, which is a local group that meets on a monthly basis to discuss wider issues affecting trade in our immediate area. It’s another way of us ingraining our business into the community as we get the opportunity to be part of local initiatives such as the annual reindeer trail, shop local promotions and also to flag any problematic issues fellow shopkeepers are experiencing, such as shoplifting. LT: Are you marking the shop’s third birthday? TG: We’re gifting ourselves a very special birthday present – the launch of Our Kid’s own clothing range for babies and toddlers, a project that has been rumbling for years now. Our name is our most precious commodity and owning the trademark within kidswear gives us a unique opportunity to bring to life our take on childhood and our Manchester heritage. Our Kid slogan T-shirts are now officially launched and we’re planning a rapid expansion into the newborn category. The reaction from our customers and followers has been incredible, the T-shirts are flying, and this injection of optimism has bolstered our confidence. Whatever the challenge, our little corner of kidswear is here to stay. www.our-kid.co.uk JUNE/JULY 2019 - 41


CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

THE INSIDE STORY OF AN ENTREPRENEUR Raegan Moya-Jones, founder and former CEO of global baby brand aden + anais, discusses her new book, ‘What It Takes’, an empowering depiction of female entrepreneurship against the odds.

Laura Turner: You released a new book in May titled ‘What It Takes’. Can you outline what it’s about? Raegan Moya-Jones: In the book I share my entrepreneurial journey. From starting my business at my kitchen table, to buying my co-founder out in the midst of a health scare; from growing the company and selling the majority share of my business, to ultimately leaving the company I worked so hard to build. The book is part memoir and part commentary on what women face as entrepreneurs and in business. To that end, I hope that women will read the book and be inspired to either start their own businesses or make the changes in their careers that they may have been hesitant to do. I firmly believe that if I can do it, anyone can do it. I hope my book conveys that and inspires others to make their own leap. LT: As you mention, female entrepreneurship is a key topic of the book. What is your personal experience as a woman in business? RM-J: When I started out as a corporate cog I was a fairly ambitious and outspoken young woman who worked hard to be successful and progress in my career. But no matter how successful I was at my job, I kept feeling as though I was being held back. I can’t say for certain that it was a gender thing, but during my corporate career all but one of my managers were men; it seemed they didn’t appreciate being questioned by someone junior to them, much less a woman. It was the frustration of being told that I was where I needed to be and that I was not cut out for more senior roles that ultimately led me to start my own business. I knew I was capable of more and if I worked in an environment where I was able to stretch my 42 - JUNE/JULY 2019


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was painful – we had been very close friends when we started the business and it was an ugly split, both for the business and personally. So, while working capital was a long-term challenge that I dealt with for years, the sudden departure of my business partner and close friend was the most painful chapter of aden + anais’ early years. LT: What would you list as the most important lessons you’ve learnt in business? RM-J: Listen to your intuition. There are moments when I’ve listened to my intuition – like when I started the company, I intuitively knew that this would be a big idea and there was only so much time before someone else had the same idea and acted on it. On the other hand, when I sold the majority share of my business, I had an intuitive feeling that this was the wrong move, that I was selling to the wrong people. However, we were so deep into the sales process that I chose not to listen to that particular inkling and I have regretted it ever since. limits and grow, I would be successful. I wish I could say that things are different for women in the entrepreneurial world. Although I do think the situation as improved over the last two decades, we still face hurdles that men don’t when it comes to funding, when it comes to being taken seriously and when it comes to securing investors. LT: What would you highlight as your proudest career achievements? RM-J: Getting to a million dollars in revenue whilst I was still working my full-time day job was a pretty great moment. Also winning an EY Entrepreneur of The Year award in 2014 was definitely a highlight. Probably my proudest achievement was building a fabulous culture at aden + anais, one where people constantly told me it was the best job they had ever had and they loved getting out of bed each day to come to the office. I cared deeply about the people who worked at aden + anais so to get that feedback was extremely meaningful to me. LT: What are the biggest challenges you’ve encountered in business? RM-J: Hands down, it was working capital. From the beginning, aden + anais was like a rocket ship. The accelerated pace meant that there was high demand for our product, but it also made it hard to keep funding the ever-larger orders of inventory required to meet the demand and the infrastructure that we needed to put in place to support it. For the first couple of years that we were on the market a large majority of my time as owner and CEO was spent trying to secure funding to keep the business going. On a more personal level, another huge challenge was when my co-founder and I split. It

LT: What inspires and motives you? RM-J: I’ve always loved the idea of taking something basic, that everyone takes for granted or doesn’t think twice about, and remaking it into something completely new and different. In business they refer to it as category disruption. That idea has been the basis of both of my companies. It also goes without saying that I’m

And finally, early on, I made peace with failure. I knew that in a long-term venture that small failures would be inevitable. I embraced it, and I avoided making it mean anything about me as a person. If we failed, it was because the idea didn’t work and we needed to try a different approach - it wasn’t because I or anyone else involved was a failure themselves. On a broader scale, I internalised very early on the fact that statistically there was a much greater chance of the business failing than there was of it becoming a multi-million-dollar success. I decided that I would rather try and fail than give up too soon because of the fear of failing. As soon as I did that the fear went away as I effectively gave myself the OK to fail, which allowed me to take more risks and not second guess every decision I made. LT: Do you have any business mentors? RM-J: I definitely had advisors during my entrepreneurial journey, but never one person who has championed my career: My first private equity investors, Seidler Equity Partners, were the most impactful. They helped me grow my business, helped me understand how a $15 million dollar company operates differently from a $50 million dollar company, and helped me become a better CEO. Without their guidance and input I don’t think we could have grown aden + anais into what it was in 2013, when I sold the business.

“ WHEN I STARTED OUT AS A CORPORATE COG I WAS A FAIRLY AMBITIOUS AND OUTSPOKEN YOUNG WOMAN WHO WORKED HARD TO BE SUCCESSFUL AND PROGRESS IN MY CAREER. BUT NO MATTER HOW SUCCESSFUL I WAS AT MY JOB, I KEPT FEELING AS THOUGH I WAS BEING HELD BACK.” motivated by the idea of providing financial security for my family and I hope to, by example, inspire my four girls to work hard so they can do what they love and love what they do. LT: What do you feel are your key strengths as an entrepreneur? RM-J: Above all, I never give up. I never take no for an answer and I keep moving forward no matter what. In any entrepreneurial journey there will be hundreds of setbacks. When you decide to start your business it’s incredibly important that you find the strength to keep trying, no matter how many times you hear the word “no” or “it can’t be done.” I should say that part of my ability to keep going was due to the fact that I absolutely believed in the idea and in the business. From the very beginning I believed very deeply that it could be a million-dollar company. That clear vision kept me going, even when things seemed impossible.

LT: ‘What It Takes’ isn’t your first book, you also published ‘Swaddle Love’ back in 2010. Do you have plans for any more books? RM-J: No, ‘What It Takes’ took me three years to write - and I had help. I’m looking forward to having a bit of a break from all things publishing for a while. LT: What’s next for you in terms of career goals? RM-J: At the moment I’m focused on building Saint Luna Spirits, the premium moonshine brand I created with my co-founder, David. I’m excited about introducing Saint Luna to the American and eventually international markets. By this time next year, our goal is to have Saint Luna offered at five-star bars and restaurants and featured on menus in the coolest cocktail bars, a first for moonshine. So far so good, and we’ve only been at it for a couple of months. My intuition is most definitely telling me we are on to something, so stay tuned. JUNE/JULY 2019 - 43


CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

A FEAST FOR THE EYES Etta Loves is not your average baby brand, its products feature prints that support babies’ visual and cognitive development. CWB meets founder Jen Fuller to learn more about the science behind her sensory baby textile company.

Laura Turner: What motivated Etta Loves’ creation? Jen Fuller: I launched Etta Loves in late 2016, inspired by my daughter Etta and her love of a particular jumper of mine. She was around six weeks old when I first noticed her staring intently at the jumper’s black and white pattern whilst I was feeding her, ignoring the plain muslin flung over my shoulder. I was fascinated by what she could and couldn’t see and set out to understand how I could recreate the magic on her face by turning omnipresent baby items into sensory essentials. My background is in the advertising industry, so whilst I had no experience in product development or retail, I felt comfortable that I could spot a good idea and knew the fundamentals of building a brand. LT: Can you explain the science behind Etta Loves and how it is translated into prints, colours and products? JF: The concept is totally unique in that we use very precise measurements provided by Laura, our consultant orthoptist (eye specialist), of what babies at a certain age can and can’t see. So for example, we’ll take the average minimum line thickness a newborn will be able to see, as well as the average that a four-month-old will be able to see, and build this into the range of scales that appear in one of our 0 to 4-month patterns. We also discuss other parameters such as colour detection by age, the shapes that babies show a preference for, plus much more, all of which forms the most critical part of the design brief. The result is that all of our products not only stimulate babies, but also mesmerise them, providing well needed moments of calm for their parents and carers. LT: Who designs Etta Loves? JF: It’s a combination of myself, Laura and my dear friend Shruti, whom I met at NCT when pregnant with Etta. Shruti is an incredibly 44 - JUNE/JULY 2019

talented designer who has been with me on the journey since the inception of the idea. I’ll brief her on the concept that I want to bring to life through a combination of mood boards and the science part from Laura, then Shruti will come back with initial designs. As you can imagine there is a period of refinement, checking that the science works with the overall look we’re trying to achieve – a process which sometimes means that it’s back to the drawing board. It’s very important that Etta Loves is rooted in science but also remains design-led, stylish and unisex. LT: What does the collection comprise product-wise? JF: I launched the brand with a muslin square collection as it really represents the ultimate portable sensory experience. However, we have

since launched washcloths and a reversible playmat. LT: Are your products organic? JF: Our playmat is organic cotton and our muslins are 100 per cent bamboo. Responsible sourcing is a big commitment of mine and I’m currently working with a company to decrease our environmental footprint. LT: Do you have any new products in the pipeline? JF: I am incredibly excited about the next wave of new products for a/w 19. They include comforters, teethers and a knitted blanket as well as new nursery décor. Once they have launched, I hope that we will be seen as more of a lifestyle brand.


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LT: You recently hosted a talk about Etta Loves at the Natural Baby Shower store. Is public speaking something you plan to do more of? JF: Absolutely. I thoroughly enjoyed being able to talk to people about the business and the science of babies’ visual development. I also have several panel events on the horizon and I’m a guest on a few podcasts, so opportunities are starting to come my way. I know how important it is for me to have these platforms in order to explain the uniqueness of our brand and how it can help mums and dads find some calm in their day. I also love nothing more than talking to people about life and motherhood, so it’s certainly something I’d like to make a bigger part of my business. LT: Etta Loves has a very active and honest social media and blog. Has this investment in communication played an important role in building your brand? JF: Authenticity is one of the pillars of Etta Loves. I realised early on that people buy people as much as they buy a brilliant idea. It’s vital that my customers can connect with me and feel part of the Etta Loves journey, too. Because I am effectively the voice and face of the brand - aside from little Etta, of course - I can’t imagine not putting a personal stamp on it. The balance can be tricky, however, as whilst it’s important that I don’t add too much polish to the everyday realities of running a business whilst parenting my girls, the brand needs to look and act professionally. Social media and my website’s blog provide platforms to do both.

LT: Can you tell me about Etta Loves’ recent collaboration with Cowshed? JF: It was an honour to be asked to collaborate with such an iconic British brand. We designed an exclusive bubble print muslin inspired by bathtime and scaled to complement the average age babies start having bubbles in their bath, so from two months. It sits in a gift box alongside Cowshed’s organic frothy hair and body wash, which rather helpfully was the one product I’ve religiously used on my daughter, Uma, from a few months old. It really does make the perfect gift and has been selling well since launching in April. LT: Would you like to do more collaborations? JF: Yes, definitely. I see them as a wonderful

opportunity to work with brands who share an audience and ethos with Etta Loves. I’m currently in talks with a clothing brand and a food brand for potential 2020 collaborations. I also love working with similarly sized businesses to mine to support each other’s goals and create genuinely beautiful, useful and clever products. I have a few more of these agile, targeted collaborations in the pipeline, too. LT: What is your wholesale strategy? JF: We are very much pushing our wholesale contacts as we want more parents to be able to benefit from the brand and more retailers to see the magic of Etta Loves, too. I have recently taken a new partner on board, Samia Khan, who is no stranger to the baby industry. Her contacts are helping us to have progressive conversations. LT: What are your plans for the business? JF: In the short term it’s about building some real momentum through the new product launches and using them to reach both new consumers and new retailers. Longer term we will be focussing on developing unique products in more categories - alongside the right collaborations - to help more parents and carers benefit from the calm that sensory stimulation brings. Ultimately, I’m working towards Etta Loves being regarded as the ultimate lifestyle brand for babies, loved by parents and retailers alike. www.ettaloves.com JUNE/JULY 2019 - 45


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SCHOOLWEAR BUYER THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY

48: NEWS 50: BANNER TALKS BUSINESS As we enter the peak schoolwear selling season, CWB talks Back to School readiness with Glenn Leech, Banner’s CEO.

52: BRENDA’S CELEBRATES 70 YEARS Jan Green, company director of schoolwear retailer Brenda’s, discusses the business’s 70th anniversary and its longstanding commitment to progression and innovation.

54: JUCO: A NEW MOVEMENT OF SCHOOL SPORTSWEAR The latest on Juco, the brand-new sportswear offering from schoolwear supplier, David Luke.

57: SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION AWARDS PREVIEW 2019 Everything you need to know about this year’s Schoolwear Association Awards.

JUNE/JULY 2019 - 47


CWB-ONLINE.CO | SCHOOLWEAR NEWS

SCHOOLWEAR NEWS The latest news from the schoolwear industry. CHADWICK TEAMWEAR LAUNCHES NEW WEBSITE Chadwick Teamwear has a new, mobile responsive website. The launch comprises two stages, the first being the brochure site chadwicktextiles.co.uk and chadwickteamwear. co.uk. The second phase, completing soon, will introduce a customer login facility. This will enable users to view stock, place orders, make payments, print statements and more. “The new website will keep customers more informed; from new products and company news through to practical buying information,” says sales director, Tim Roberts. “It also allows us to provide more information on Chadwick’s USPs and the controls we have in place to ensure potential trade customers can trust our product.”

NIGEL PLENDERLEITH TO JOIN WILLIAM TURNER William Turner has confirmed that Nigel Plenderleith will be joining the business as a non-executive chair. Currently celebrating its 50th anniversary, William Turner is a thirdgeneration family business and manufacturer and supplier of school ties and accessories. “We are really pleased to have been able to secure Nigel’s services as non-executive chairman,” says Daniel Turner, MD of William Turner. “Family businesses sometimes need a bit of support in managing growth; Nigel has the perfect blend of experience, leadership and integrity to help take us to the next level.” Plenderleith adds: “This is a very exciting time for me to be joining William Turner. Their strong values are a great foundation for the future ambitions of the company.”

NEWS IN BRIEF Tickets are now available for this year’s Schoolwear Association fundraising evening. Titled ‘The Greatest Schoolwear Show’, it takes place on Sunday 13 October 2019 at The Village Hotel, Solihull, following the first day of The Schoolwear Show. As well as a threecourse dinner, the evening will provide entertainment and presentations for the SA Awards 2019. The event starts at 7.30pm and tickets cost £60 per person plus VAT. For ticket sales contact Marie Bradburn at mariebradburn@talktalk.net. 48 - JUNE/JULY 2019

ROWLINSON KNITWEAR AWARDED FOR UNIQUE CSR SUCCESS

Winterbottom’s Schoolwear recently hosted a series of focus groups to involve some of its customers in its latest developments. Priding itself in supporting independent retailers, the schoolwear manufacturer organised the sessions as a way of welcoming a wide range of feedback. Focus groups involving a select number of businesses within the schoolwear industry took place in the North, South and Midlands. There, attendees were able to share thoughts on some of Winterbottom’s core products. “We really appreciate that our customers have taken the time to help us understand how Winterbottom’s Schoolwear can better support its businesses,” says group MD, Jonathan Lowe. “We are keen to work with the independent schoolwear retail market to further develop business together. I hope that our customers see that the changes we are making across the company are putting us in a better position to be able to support them. “Following the success of these three events, we are now looking to run future sessions. Therefore, if any of our customers would like to learn more, we encourage them to get in touch.”

Donald Moore, MD of Rowlinson Knitwear, has received the only double award win - Corporate Social Responsibility and Small-Medium Business Director of the Year awards - at the Institute of Directors (IoD) Director of the Year awards. The 2019 IoD North West awards recognised Moore’s focus on leading his colleagues where customers and employees come before profit; highlighting the business for its integrity and clear business vision. “It is an honour to win two IoD awards,” says Moore. “They are a testament to the talent and efforts of all of my colleagues and I accept them on their behalf. The IoD awards provide us with a fantastic opportunity to promote the huge benefits of being an employee-owned business, which we believe has provided the best platform to sustain our commercial success since transition in 2015.” Claire Ebrey, regional director for the North West and Isle of Man, adds: “Donald’s nominations clearly outlined Rowlinson’s commitment to an ethical, people-focused culture. This was demonstrated through its business practices regionally in Stockport with its Real Living Wage accreditation. Also, ranking as the 19th Best Workplace® 2019 by Great Places To Work®. “Overseas, Rowlinson upholds its socially responsible initiatives, including water filter gifting to help improve the health of its Bangladeshi factory workers. It is also leading the way by conducting Health and Safety audits in these sites to UK standards.”

A number of new exhibitors will be attending this year’s edition of The Schoolwear Show, the biggest event in the schoolwear industry calendar. Taking place on 13-15 October at Cranmore Park in Solihull, the 2019 show includes debuts from a range of companies. To date, new exhibitors include Be Bold Footwear, Makura, Hunter, Madeira, Artie and Totto. Other highlights will include the return of business seminars organised by the Schoolwear Association.

The Magic Touch has introduced another innovative process to reduce production costs and time when decorating garments. Previously, the decoration of garments with metallic and sparkle effect designs involved the traditional method of cutting and weeding. However, the new T. Foil Dark transfer process produces these results speedily and cost-effectively. As well as working on almost any garment, regardless of colour or textile composition, there is no requirement for labour-intensive cutting and weeding.

WINTERBOTTOM’S HOSTS CUSTOMER FOCUS GROUPS



CWB-ONLINE.CO | SCHOOLWEAR

BANNER TALKS BUSINESS As we enter the peak schoolwear selling season, Laura Turner talks Back to School readiness with Glenn Leech, Banner’s CEO.

Laura Turner: How was Back to School in 2018? Glenn Leech: We delivered our best ever year for service. This was particularly pleasing as we had taken on a lot of feedback from colleagues and customers regarding how we could improve and sustain high levels of service throughout the entire Back to School period. As a result, we offered extended hours and weekend deliveries and maintained our commitment to next day delivery, which is a credit to our dedicated teams and their approach to flexible working. We also invested in over £18m of stock and held nearly 4 million garments at our peak, achieving 97.7 per cent average stock availability. So, we were pleased with our performance, but no sooner had Back to School finished than we were planning for 2019.

requires extensive planning as we invoice more than £1m in just one day at the start of June and every single order has to be right. Getting it right starts with having the right stock in place, which is why we hold more stock than any other supplier. Next, we have to pick the right stock from our 13,000 SKUs and we have to pick it quickly enough to fulfil all next day delivery orders. This is quite a challenge given our particularly late 5pm cut off time from mid-August until the end of August. We also have to manage the increasing demand for embroidery. This year we have increased our in-house embroidery capacity by 120,000 pieces, which means we can now embroider 250,000 pieces on-site in Trowbridge. The key to all of this is having the right people and investing in the equipment that they use to get the job done. We are very proud of the capability, dedication and commitment of all Banner colleagues and are investing heavily in their engagement and retention. Ultimately, there is no substitute for experience in the schoolwear industry. Additionally, we have made further significant investments in our warehouses in Trowbridge, increasing the number of hanging garments that we can hold by over 100,000 to 600,000 in total; plus 4 million boxed garments. Our systems also ensure that our customer services team and our field sales team have the information they need at their fingertips to answer customers’ questions. This is crucial, as we know that customers want honest, accurate and timely information regarding their orders. In summary, delivering outstanding service means everything to the team at Banner and it’s a real team effort to ensure that we do.

LT: What challenges do you face as a supplier during peak? GL: Our service mission is to deliver right first time for our customers throughout the year, but in particular, during Back to School. This

LT: What are you doing to improve service and the value you deliver to customers? GL: As part of our 2019 BTS free overseas blazer embroidery offer, we introduced a delivery guarantee. We are guaranteeing delivery within

50 - JUNE/JULY 2019

+/- 7 working days of a customer’s confirmed delivery date or we give them a discount up to 10 per cent of the value of the order. The good news for Banner and our customers is that deliveries are going to plan and we are confident that c400,000 blazers will be delivered on time – phew! We also extend our order cut off time to 5pm from mid-August for next day deliveries and we will deliver over the bank holiday weekend at the end of August at no extra cost. Equally, we pride ourselves in offering the best, most dynamic marketing in the schoolwear industry comprising free customised presentation packs to help customers win new schools, high-quality marketing collateral including schoolwear and sportswear sales brochures, lifestyle and product imagery that is available to download as well as Point of Sale material. In addition, we are investing in bringing new products to market to help customers grow their businesses. In 2019 we launched APTUS Essentials, a new, competitively priced, entrylevel sportswear range, and we supported this launch with a number of highly attractive sales incentives for retailers. LT: What’s been the schoolwear market’s reaction to the launch of APTUS Essentials for Back to School? GL: We unveiled the range at The Schoolwear Show last October and the reaction from customers has been phenomenal. It’s got off to a fantastic start and we are delighted with the strength of orders received to date. Everyone loved the “Sportswear for All” concept; the colours, the modern designs of the garments, the fact that it has been created to suit all ages, sizes and body types and that it is priced competitively. All 10 garments in the APTUS Essentials range can be mixed and matched with the premium APTUS Performance range to create a whole new co-ordinated look since they share the


SCHOOLWEAR | CWB-ONLINE.CO

same colour palette. This means that we have a stock supported offer to suit all budgets. We are really excited about the opportunity to help our customers grow their sportswear sales. LT: How did your partnership with the charity Mermaids UK influence the development of APTUS Essentials? GL: Inclusion is really important to us as well as ensuring that all children feel comfortable and confident in their uniform and PE kit. As part of the APTUS Essentials range development, Emma Robertson - our head of design - and her team have been working with Mermaids UK since 2017, a charity that supports children and young people who are gender diverse. During our research project, parents and children who are supported by the charity gave invaluable feedback on how educational sportswear could be improved to encourage students to become more involved with sport at school. For instance, a key finding was the need for sports kit that fits well, which was deemed more important than the garments being split into gender. This led us to remove gender in the Essentials product names and launch a genderless range of sportswear that works for everyone. LT: You recently bought a number of schoolwear retailers. How is this changing Banner? GL: We bought three specialist schoolwear retailers in 2018. They are now being run as one business led by Peter Monkhouse and sit separately to the Banner wholesale business. The acquisitions have given us a better understanding of the challenges involved in running a retail business, which in turn is helping us improve the service of our wholesale business. The acquisitions have also made Banner financially stronger, enabling continued investment in our wholesale business. For example, bringing new product to market and

APTUS ESSENTIALS

“ OUR SERVICE MISSION IS TO DELIVER RIGHT FIRST TIME FOR OUR CUSTOMERS THROUGHOUT THE YEAR, BUT IN PARTICULAR, DURING BACK TO SCHOOL. THIS REQUIRES EXTENSIVE PLANNING AS WE INVOICE MORE THAN £1M IN JUST ONE DAY AT THE START OF JUNE AND EVERY SINGLE ORDER HAS TO BE RIGHT.” increasing our stock holding for all our retail customers. LT: What’s Banner’s approach to ethical trading and sustainability? GL: At Banner we have taken a leading stance on ethical trading for some time. For over 12 years we have been members of Sedex, which sets globally recognised standards in areas such as working conditions, human rights and health and safety standards, and is regularly audited. We also have a very secure and sustainable supply chain, working with only leading manufacturers of high standard schoolwear and sportswear. All of Banner’s 34 supplier factories are Sedex members and are fully compliant with the strict ethical sourcing regulations set in relation to the above areas. Sustainability is also an integral part of our

overall strategy; we have a responsibility to reduce the impact of our business and supply chain on the natural environment and the communities in which we operate. We are currently consulting with our customers, suppliers and colleagues on potential changes to both our products and supply chain and will be implementing a number of ambitious plans in due course. LT: What new developments can we expect to see from Banner in 2020? GL: Right now, we are very focused on delivering great service to our customers during 2019 Back to School. We are also working on a number of exciting plans for 2020, which we plan to reveal at The Schoolwear Show in October. www.banner.co.uk JUNE/JULY 2019 - 51


CWB-ONLINE.CO | SCHOOLWEAR

BRENDA’S CELEBRATES 70 YEARS Schoolwear retailer Brenda’s is currently commemorating its 70th year. In light of the anniversary, CWB speaks to company director Jan Green to discuss the business’s milestones and its longstanding commitment to progression and innovation. Brenda’s is a well-known, family-run schoolwear outfitters based in Camberley, Surrey. The business was established in 1949 by Brenda Francis, who at the time was aged just 15 years old. Today the store is run by Francis’s grandson, Steve Optix, alongside his mother and business partner, Jan Green. Together, Optix and Green have dedicated themselves to providing customers with a contemporary and well-laid out store coupled with the best in customer service and a yearround stock holding of durable, cost-effective school uniform and associated product. Unsurprisingly, with a 70-year history under its belt, Brenda’s has been subject to a number of key developments over the years as company director Jan Green explains. “Two very important changes for Brenda’s were when each of my sons joined the business - Steve in 1999 and James in 2009,” she says. “Other milestones include introducing our first epos system in the early 90s. We believe we were amongst the first - if not the first - independent schoolwear retailer to have a digitised system; it transformed our business. “We have also moved store premises three times, with each shop being bigger and better than the previous. Now, in our fourth and current premises, we trade over two floors. Taking on a warehouse three years ago was also an important development. It means we can now keep the stock flowing efficiently and can take the large Back to School orders without clogging the system.”

A FORWARD-THINKING MENTALITY As Green previously notes, Brenda’s is something of a pioneer in schoolwear retail, having utilising store epos systems for over 23 years as well as hosting a website for 19 years and selling school 52 - JUNE/JULY 2019

uniform online for 15 years. The business also leads the way in communication, keeping its customers and schools regularly informed via email, social media and a blog. Brenda’s customer centric approach means that every development and investment made has been based on customer demand, a formula Green attributes to the business’s success and longevity. “Without doubt, striving to be at the forefront of our industry, keeping ahead of the game and not letting the grass grow under our feet has contributed to our success,” says Green. “I used to drive our business forward, now Steve is the driving force. “Our store is neat, user-friendly and set out for both self-service or for our staff to help, whichever the customer prefers. Our online store is also extremely popular but what sets it apart is the speed of delivery. James is in charge of our web orders and a click and collect order can be ready in as little as two minutes. Plus, all orders placed before 3pm are delivered by DPD the next day.”

THE FUTURE OF BRENDA’S Reflecting on her time working in retail, Green also considers the changes she’s witnessed to both customer service style and the schoolwear industry as a whole. “We, as with all other retailers, used to always utter the words ‘Can I help you?’ to everyone that crossed the threshold. These days, most people prefer to browse and self-serve, so our store is set out to make it easy for the customer to choose how they shop. Online shopping is increasing all the time too, but we are well equipped to deal with this. “In terms of the industry, the biggest change of all was in the early 80s with the introduction

of school logos on items other than just a blazer. Fabrics have also changed vastly, especially the technical fabrics available in sports kits. “And, while we haven’t seen any demand for gender-neutral uniform from parents, one of our secondary schools has recently gone completely gender-neutral. This year they will be offering only one blazer, the girl’s blouse has gone, and the fitted and non-fitted PE top will now be offered to all students.”

CELEBRATING A LANDMARK ANNIVERSARY To mark its anniversary, Brenda’s recently hosted a store event, inviting key people in the industry to share in the celebrations. Guests were treated to refreshments as well as a no holds barred tour of the premises, from shop floors and goods-in, through to the stock rooms and embroidery. The sentiment being to give visitors an insight into how the business works, including behind the scenes. Following a speech by Green, the event was completed with the cutting of two celebration cakes made by Green’s niece and Brenda’s youngest granddaughter. As well as the event, Brenda’s ran a free prize draw in-store to win two vouchers worth £70 each. Customers can also help themselves to free 70th anniversary pens and chocolates on the store’s counters, with 70s banners adorning the shop’s ceiling. Staff are also following suit, with special ‘Brenda’s 70’ branded tops. “We have been expanding and developing for 70 years and feel our business is currently the best it can be,” concludes Green. “This doesn’t mean we will stop planning or developing, but our focus now is to stay at the top of our game and constantly strive to be the best we can be.” www.brendas.co.uk


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JUCO: A NEW MOVEMENT OF SCHOOL SPORTSWEAR CWB gets the latest on Juco, the brand-new sportswear offering from schoolwear supplier, David Luke.

A new movement of sportswear that aims to encourage “every body to get moving” is set to launch into the schoolwear market this summer: meet Juco. Juco has been developed by David Luke Schoolwear, one of the UK’s leading manufacturers of made-to-order and Ecouniform, and will see an initial collection of 13 pieces launch into its network of independent retailers from July 2019. David Luke Schoolwear has become known for its advances in the development of Ecouniform and will dispatch over 500,000 pieces this year in the course of the Back to School season. Within the Juco range, 70 per cent of the products are classified as Eco-uniform. The Ecotech fabric used in hero styles such as the skort, unisex polo shirt, base layers and T-shirts is made using recycled polyester derived from post-consumer plastic waste. Commenting on the range and its ecoproperties is Juco’s product development 54 - JUNE/JULY 2019

manager, Jenifer Nairne. “When looking at base layers and fabrics our aim was to find something that would feel soft against the skin while also making the wearer feel comfortable in the garment. The chosen fabric is made from a recycled polyester yarn with a brushed surface, which makes it softer to touch and more comparable to cotton. The knit of the fabric also allows a high stretch without compromising on opacity. “When researching fabrics for the T-shirts and polos, we took inspiration from some of the major sportswear brands, with which I had direct experience. Polyester-based and lightweight with wicking properties were some of the key elements we wanted to go after. The fabric we used is made from a recycled polyester yarn with a finished weight of 180gsm. There is also the addition of mesh panels specifically positioned on the garment to aid breathability, wicking, fast-drying and overall reduced weight. We feel we have crafted a product which exceeds our


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expectations. “Finally, for the showerproof jacket, we engineered the panels to aid with water resistance and breathability. For instance, the jacket features panels across the shoulders rather than the seams to keep driving rain out, as well as a back vent to allow airflow inside the garment. There’s also a mesh lining with access for embroidery.”

A SPORTSWEAR RANGE THAT CHAMPIONS INCLUSIVITY AND SUSTAINABILITY Juco products have been designed to work for all sports in order to prioritise a spirit of inclusivity. Considered design details and high-quality materials usually associated with aspirational sports brands feature across the range to elevate the finish and defy the norms of typical school sportswear. As well as advocating inclusivity, Juco also better represents David Luke Schoolwear’s stance on sustainability. “Our previous sportswear offering was not

reflective of our passion for innovation and the advances we have made as a business in terms of sustainability,” explains Kathryn Shuttleworth, managing director at David Luke Schoolwear. “Juco represents a considered and holistic collection of high-quality garments that meet the needs of pupils no matter what level of sporting activity they are participating in. Raising kids with a positive body image, high self-esteem and the confidence to participate in sports - even if they’re not going to be the best - have inspired this collection.” In terms of product, the Juco range includes a multi-sport short, polo shirt, ladies’ polo shirt, skort, base layer under legging, 2 in 1 short (female fit), T-shirt, ladies’ T-shirt, showerproof training jacket and a reversible multi-sport jersey. There is also a ¼ zip mid-layer jacket and mid-layer track pant featuring Duratech, a durable, water-repellent (DWR) coating that is added to the fabric to provide water-resistant protection. Duratech ensures any water that does come into contact with the garment forms into beads and rolls off, meaning the wearer stays dry for longer.

resulting in pupils feeling alienated. We want to provide a quality range that champions inclusivity.” Understanding today’s teens are at risk of withdrawing from physical activity because they don’t feel confident when taking part is one of the founding principles of Juco and its approach. “From the outset, we worked from the guiding principle that young people shouldn’t be prevented from enjoying the simple pleasures of PE and school sports because their kit made them feel uncomfortable or embarrassed,” concludes Nairne. “We tracked the movements of young people when designing Juco to see where the pressure points are during instances of physical exertion. Basing our designs on the realistic movements of teens and taking into consideration any hang-ups they might be experiencing at their stage of life has enabled us to design sportswear with a fit that is relevant to today’s market.” www.davidluke.com

SPORTSWEAR RELEVANT TO TODAY’S MARKET Research undertaken by Sport England as part of its Active Lives Children and Young People Survey revealed that physical literacy decreases with age. As children grow older, they report lower levels of enjoyment, confidence, competence and understanding. Previous research from Sport England also shows that activity levels drop when children reach their teenage years. “We could see a real opportunity in the market when it came to school sports kit,” continues Shuttleworth. “At one end of the scale, a basic PE kit that was dated and no longer fit for purpose; wearing it made children feel exposed and vulnerable, especially if sport wasn’t their first passion. Then there were instances where schools chose very aspirational brands because they wanted their teams to portray elitism, often JUNE/JULY 2019 - 55


Introducing JUCO by David Luke Schoolwear. A new movement of eco-sportswear which allows every body to get moving. Launching to retailers in Summer 2019. JUCO products have been designed to work for all sports in order to prioritise a spirit of inclusivity. Considered design details and high quality materials, usually associated with aspirational sports brands, feature across the range to elevate the finish and defy the norms of typical school sportswear. Call us on 0161 272 7474 to find out how you can add value to your existing sports range with JUCO.

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SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION AWARDS PREVIEW 2019 Everything you need to know about this year’s Schoolwear Association (SA) Awards, which celebrate the hard work and dedication shown by those in the schoolwear industry.

WHAT ARE THE SA AWARDS? The SA Awards, now in the third year, recognise the work and commitment that those within the schoolwear sector carry out year in, year out. The awards highlight the achievements of businesses and the people that make them a success, celebrating dedication, hard work and commitment to the industry. This year, the Village Hotel in Solihull will host ‘The Greatest Schoolwear Show’, which will include presentations of the SA awards.

A LOOK BACK AT THE SA AWARDS 2018 In 2018, the awards returned for a second year with a night of laughter, celebration and entertainment. Those in the industry from suppliers to retailers, new faces and old and everything in between - were welcomed back to dance the night away, enjoy some great food and have their hard work recognised. Entertainment included SA favourite Aaron James and a live performance from schoolwear retailer Siobhan Margetson, with an Ibiza themed DJ set from Steve Optix topping the night off. Some of the winners from last year included Total Clothing, which was named as Best Schoolwear Specialist 2018 (less than 10 full time staff ) for its work supplying over 125 schools, growing its school market 22 per cent on average over the last five years and making a conscious effort to increase its green initiatives. Stevensons was awarded Best Larger Schoolwear Specialist. In the award for Best Digital Schoolwear 2018, School Blazer UK was celebrated for its new online sizing solution and an efficient order and delivery process, which has considerably improved the online shopping experience for its customers. Other winners from 2018 include Trutex’s own Heather Walker for her ‘Outstanding Service to Schoolwear’ after more than 30 years in the industry. Also, David Luke Schoolwear, which scooped Best Schoolwear Supplier 2018 for its support of independent retailers and investment in service level improvements to help its customers. Best Community Partner was Early Years,

which reflected the SA’s “Every Child is Worth it” values with its community efforts. Commenting on this year’s awards is Schoolwear Association chair, David Burgess. “Once again, we are thrilled to be holding another night of celebrations and awards for those in the industry. We are now in the third year, following two great ceremonies already. I think this year will be our biggest and best yet. “But, with all of the fun and entertainment aside, it is really important that we continue to recognise the hard work and dedication from the members of the Schoolwear Association. So many people in this association strive to push the industry forwards on a daily basis. Even if that sometimes seems a struggle, we continue to maintain the high standard of school uniform and provide the best for children and their schools. “We have to continue educating and informing people about the benefits of good, durable and high-quality school uniform, and the greater momentum we gather with these awards, recognising both hard work and innovative products – we will be able to provide not only an industry standard, but the leading standard of clothing in schoolwear across the UK.” >>> JUNE/JULY 2019 - 57


CWB-ONLINE.CO | SCHOOLWEAR

SA AWARD CATEGORIES 2019 All members of the Schoolwear Association are invited to nominate their business, an employee or another member of the Association for any of the six awards. Applications must also include reasons why the nominee should be handed the industry standard accolade later this year. BEST SCHOOLWEAR SPECIALIST 2019

SUSTAINABILITY IN SCHOOLWEAR AWARD 2019

- (Less than 10 full time staff) - (More than 10 full time staff) These awards will be looking to recognise a schoolwear specialist with strong financials, great relationships with schools, quality customer service and staff tenure, as well as examples that show the business goes the extra mile. —

New for 2019, this award recognises those specialist schoolwear businesses - whether manufacturer, supplier, retailer, agent or decorator - that have shown in their actions, as well as words, a real tangible commitment to reducing their impact on the environment. This could take the form of waste reduction, using eco-friendly fabrics, switching energy supply away from fossil fuels or reducing transportation costs. —

BEST SCHOOLWEAR SUPPLIER 2019 The winner of this award will be a medium to large schoolwear supplier. They should be able to show examples of strong business operations and financials as well as great customer service and staff tenure. If the supplier can show examples of going the extra mile as a business, then that will also be noted. —

JUDGING PROCESS

BEST DIGITAL SCHOOLWEAR 2019

BENEFITS OF ENTERING THE SA AWARDS 2019

Judges will be looking for pioneering digital leaders in the schoolwear industry. Those that produce engaging content, have an innovative use of digital media, websites and Epos will all be noted, irrespective of business size. The judges are looking for innovation and originality; a business that is always adapting and improving with the digital landscape. —

All award winners and runners-up will be announced at the Schoolwear Association’s ‘Greatest Schoolwear Show’ event on Sunday 13 October 2019 at the Village Hotel, Solihull, following the first day of The Schoolwear Show. The evening fundraiser will include a three-course dinner and live entertainment, including acts to reflect the event’s circus theme. As well as the award, all winners and runners-up will get the opportunity for free promotion by the SA on social media and in the press to celebrate their success and achievements. Those shortlisted will be revealed via CWB online and also featured in CWB’s September/October print issue.

BEST COMMUNITY PARTNER 2019 This award will recognise members that are selfless and work hard for the benefit of others. Judges will be looking for qualities that show a real commitment to the community and those that are a part of it; whether it be in their own local area or on a more national or international basis, with initiatives that show support to disadvantaged children and their families. Commitment shown to the SA’s “Every Child Is Worth It” values will also be noted. —

OUTSTANDING SERVICE TO SCHOOLWEAR 2019 This individual will really encompass the trade; they will be passionate and believe in the industry and what it works towards. This can be anyone within the Association that has demonstrated great commitment to schoolwear – the winner will have shown dedication in their role, helping to push the industry forwards. —

58 - JUNE/JULY 2019

This year’s judging panel comprises Laura Turner, editor of CWB magazine; Ken Scates, president of The Childrenswear Association (NCWA); and Joyce Daly, former organiser of The Schoolwear Show.

HOW TO APPLY Award entry is free and can only be made by SA members. However, you can nominate others in the industry as well as your own business. For ease, the application process is now all online. All members should now have received details of the awards and an entry form. If you have not, please contact the Schoolwear Association on info@schoolwearassociation.co.uk. Closing date for all entries is 31 August 2019 www.schoolwearassociation.co.uk


for Schoolwear Specialists The biggest event in the schoolwear industry calendar

13-15 October 2019 Register now to attend! With a seminar programme, networking opportunities and over 50 exhibitors, this year’s show is set to be the biggest and best yet.

Join us in October to meet new and existing suppliers and see new products and innovations during three great show days. Follow us: @SchoolwearShow TheSchoolwearShow

www.theschoolwearshow.co.uk/register


CWB-ONLINE.CO | INFORMATION

CONTACTS A A is for Alice 07810 513681 www.aisforalicecostumes.com AliOli Kids 0207 352 0507 www.aliolikids.com ARI London sales@arilondon.com www.arilondon.com B Banner 0333 7000 888 www.banner.co.uk Blue Mouse Agency 07902 873684 www.bluemouseagency.com Bon Dep 07855 509069 www.breitensteins.com Breitenstein Agencies 07855 509069 www.breitensteins.com Bubble at Pure London 0203 855 9551 www.purelondon.com C Chadwick Teamwear 0161 927 2565 www.chadwickteamwear.co.uk Compass Kids 01253 547838 www.compasskids.co.uk Cribstar jadwiga@cribstar.co.uk www.cribstar.co.uk Cub & Pudding 07796 332904 www.cubandpudding.com E Etta Loves sales@ettaloves.com www.ettaloves.com F Finest for Baby 01442 248099 www.finestforbaby.co.uk Fiona Coleman fiona.coleman@me.com www.fiona-coleman.com Folpetto hello@folpetto.com www.folpetto.com Fred’s World 0045 70702502 www.bygreencotton.dk Frugi 01326 558462 www.frugiwholesale.com G Grass & Air keepdry@grassandair.com www.grassandair.com H Home & Gift Buyers’ Festival 0207 384 8167 www.homeandgift.co.uk I INDX Kidswear Show 0121 683 1415 www.indxshow.co.uk J Joules 01858 435261 www.joulesgroup.com Juco 0161 272 7474 www.davidluke.com K KidPix 07786 050876 www.kidpix.uk Kidsbury alex@kidsbury.com www.kidsbury.com Kidswear Collective 020 7586 9494 www.kidswearcollective.com Kite 01202 733222 www.kite-clothing.co.uk L Le Mu 07796 173771 www.le-me.co.uk Lilly and Sid 01788 824455 www.lillyandsid.com

Lily & Mortimer 0845 8620561 www.lilymortimer.com Little Icons nicky@littleicons.co.uk www.littleicons.co.uk M Me & Henry 07902 873684 www.bluemouseagency.com Müsli 0045 70702502 www.bygreencotton.dk MuslinZ 01295 810008 www.merrygorounduk.co.uk O Old Soles mark@oldsoles.com.au www.oldsoles.com.au P Patachou fiona@patachou.com www.patachou.com Pigeon 01865 379230 www.pigeonorganics.com Pink Lining natasha@whleurope.com www.pinklining.com Pitti Bimbo 0033 055 3696222 www.pittimmagine.com Poco Nido catherine@poconido.com www.poconido.com R Rowlinson Knitwear 0161 477 7791 www.rowlinson-knitwear.com S Sass + Me info@sassandme.com www.sassandme.com Scamp & Dude 07512 389 707 www.scampanddude.com Schoolwear Association info@schoolwearassociation.co.uk www.schoolwearassociation.co.uk Small Fry 07831 594199 www.smallfrystore.com Solobi 07711 746276 www.solobi.co.uk SunJellies kelly@sunjellies.com www.sunjellies.com T The Basket Room 01608 239482 www.thebasketroom.com The Insights People 0330 159 6631 www.theinsightspeople.com The Little Sock Company 07435 650521 www.thelittlesockcompany.com The Magic Touch 01582 671444 www.themagictouch.co.uk V Vignette 07902 873684 www.bluemouseagency.com W William Turner 0161 480 8582 www.william-turner.co.uk Winterbottom’s Schoolwear 01423 276160 www.winterbottoms-schoolwear.co.uk Y You N’ Me! letter@younme.pl www.younme.pl

SUBSCRIPTION IN ASSOCIATION WITH

MAKE CWB YOUR SOURCE OF ESSENTIAL INDUSTRY INFORMATION - IT’S THE TOOL OF THE CHILDRENSWEAR TRADE. CWB is the only UK trade magazine dedicated exclusively to the childrenswear industry. Read by independent retailers, department stores, manufacturers, agents and suppliers, it is an essential business tool for anyone involved in the childrenswear trade. Through its links with The Childrenswear Association (NCWA) and the Schoolwear Association (SA), CWB offers a forum for UK retailers, manufacturers and agents to exchange information, making CWB the number-one place to get your voice heard. Complemented by its website cwb-online.co, CWB magazine will keep you abreast of key business issues and essential industry updates as well as offering fashion and trade show coverage, brand profiles, stock ideas and the latest news and views from the world of children’s fashion and independent retail.

SUBSCRIPTION (4 ISSUES PER YEAR)

CHILDRENSWEAR ASSOCIATION MEMBER (NCWA) / SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION MEMBER £20 (UK/Ireland price) £40 (Postal address outside UK/Ireland) NON-MEMBER: £35 (UK/Ireland price) £65 (Postal address outside UK/Ireland)

TO RECEIVE A SUBSCRIPTION FORM EMAIL ENQUIRIES@NCWA.CO.UK OR CALL +44 (0)20 7843 9488 60 -JUNE/JULY 2019


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BamBam – innovative, high quality but also surprisingly affordable.

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Weldon Agencies, Southport, Merseyside Tel: 01704 576033 Email: barrieweldon@btconnect.com, andrewweldon@btconnect.com

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | TALKING POINT

TALKING POINT JO TUTCHENER SHARP Founder and designer of Scamp & Dude

Jo Tutchener Sharp discusses developments and plans for Scamp & Dude, her unisex, ‘superpower infused’ clothing brand for kids and grown-ups. LT: What percentage of your business is wholesale? JTS: We have 15 stockists including Liberty, Selfridges, Harrods and Alex & Alexa. We are also launching into John Lewis in July. Not including John Lewis, 90 per cent of sales are currently via our website and 10 per cent wholesale. We are also working on a wholesale strategy for launching into the US and Australia but we don’t want to rush into it, it needs to be done properly. I think it is essential to really understand a market before entering, supporting the launch with marketing and PR to give it the best possible chance of making a mark and succeeding. Laura Turner: Can you tell me about the recent appointments at Scamp & Dude? Jo Tutchener Sharp: We’ve grown rapidly over the last 12 months, so to make sure that level of growth was sustainable I invested in the team. Customer service is crucial, so we’ve upgraded our capability by hiring an expert in the form of Rebecca Pendlebury. Rebecca has 17 years’ experience running customer service teams, most recently as head of customer service for Henri Lloyd. The next area I chose to invest in was marketing. Previously I’d been doing all the marketing, social and PR myself, as well as running the brand and designing the collections. As Scamp & Dude grew, this was no longer sustainable. Gemma Wells, former marketing manager for Topshop, now runs our marketing. Fiona Parker, previously head of buying at Cath Kidston, has also joined as head of buying. She manages the production process and will locate and manage new factories for the new product categories. LT: You recently opened your first standalone store in London. What led to this decision? JTS: We were growing and I was hiring an in-house team – rather than working with remote freelancers - so I needed a physical space. I was originally looking for a studio, but a shop became available in Highgate with office space below it. It seemed like the perfect solution as the sales from the shop cover the rent for the office. As well as making financial sense, it’s also great to meet our customers face to face and have a branded space for meetings. 62 - JUNE/JULY 2019

LT: What’s the store like? JTS: It’s small, but vibrant and full of life. We painted the walls our signature pale green with flashes of neon pink and leopard and lightning bolt decals; I don’t think Highgate Village knew what hit it when we moved in! Our own branded collection makes up 95 per cent of sales, the rest is from other brands such as Meri Meri, Maileg and Anya Hindmarch candles. LT: Do you plan to open more shops? JTS: As a family, we are considering moving out of London. If we do, I may potentially open another wherever I end up, so I have a shop close to me as well as the Highgate store. I would love the next space to be bigger so that we can have more fun with the space and hold in-store events. LT: Can you tell me about your current collaboration with Cowshed? JTS: Before launching Scamp & Dude I ran my own PR agency, which I’d opened 10 years previously. One of my first clients was Cowshed, so it has always been on my radar. Cowshed creates natural but effective beauty products, so it was the obvious choice for a collaboration when I came up with the idea for my Superpower Spray. Plus, I really love the ethos, design, formulas and the story behind the brand. LT: Do you have any other collaborations lined up? JTS: Yes, we are collaborating with Superga to create some trainers for babies, kids and grown-ups, which launch on 1 September.

LT: You recently completed your second year of trading with a 268 per cent increase in turnover taking you over one million. Where have you seen the most growth? JTS: Web sales have grown the most, 90 per cent of our business has been on our own website, although this will change slightly when we launch into John Lewis. The adults’ collection has also seen rapid growth. LT: Is social media important to Scamp & Dude? JTS: Absolutely, the community we’ve built on Instagram in particular has played a huge part in our growth and success. We have a very engaged, loyal, vocal and supportive community and always include them in decision making so that they really feel part of the brand. LT: What are your views on sustainable fashion? JTS: It is vital that we all do what we can to ensure the fashion industry becomes more sustainable. This is a big focus for us and I strongly believe it should be for all fashion brands, big or small. LT: Are you bringing out any new ranges? JTS: We are currently launching a new beach collection - kaftans, sarongs, shorts and vests – as well as kids’ and women’s dresses for the first time. We’re introducing a collection of socks for Back to School and a backpack, too. New styles and lines for a/w 19 include jackets and a nightwear collection. www.scampanddude.com


Š2019. All rights reserved Young Soles, Photography by Emma Donnelly.

SPRING / SUMMER 2020 Available for wholesale orders. Contact sales@youngsoles.london for more information.



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