WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co JUNE 2017 / ISSUE 265 / £6.95
DAYS OF SUMMER SHOW BUSINESS The s/s 18 exhibitions not to miss this season DOUBLE AGENTS The new partnership set to elevate Alembika to the next level TALKING SHOP Retail stalwarts share their key business lessons
SPRING - SUMMER 2018 Apt Collections Ltd T: 00 44 207 580 3202 E: nigel@aptcollections.ltd.uk / claudia@aptcollections.ltd.uk
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29/ P A N O R A M A
WWB takes a look at what’s in store at the next edition
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SCOOP IN THE SUMMER
A first look at the boutique trade show’s s/s 18 event
32/ M O D A
The brands to watch at this season’s show
35/ S U P E R
A sneak peak of the Milan show
36/ L E S S O N S F R O M T H E SHOPFLOOR
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Key indies give their top start-up tips
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RETAIL FORUM
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ETAIL CLINIC
Expert e-commerce advice
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THE LAST WORD
With Mikael Söderlindh, co-founder of Happy Socks
EDITOR’S COMMENT
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TALKING POINT
Your views on the issues shaping the industry
14/ I N T E R V I E W With Caroline Ekström, owner, Oldstrom Agency
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STYLE FILE
18/ B R I G H T S T U F F
The pieces channelling this season’s hottest trend to get in-store now
20/ “ T H E F U T U R E I S F U L L O F OPPORTUNITY” Highlights from this year’s Bira Conference
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ALEMBIKA’S AMBITIONS
The Israeli brand’s plans for UK growth
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EXHIBITION CALENDAR
The key shows for s/s 18
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PREMIUM / KRAFTWERK SHOW & ORDER
32
A preview of the Berlin trade events
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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Writer Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com
Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths
Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@ite-exhibitions.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323
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Last month I had the pleasure of attending this year’s Bira (British Independent Retailers Association) High Street Conference in Bristol. The annual event once again brought together key independent retailers, thought leaders and business experts and offered a jam packed day full of inspirational talks, coupled with topical workshops on a host of omnichannel and retail issues. You can read a summary of the event on page 20, but my personal highlight of the day was the keynote address by Laura Tenison, founder of baby and maternity specialist JoJo Maman Bébé. Bright, down to earth and with an infectious energy, Tenison gave a fascinating account of her journey from small kitchen-table operation – initially creating special occasion shirts for men, which, as she says herself “was not hugely successful” – to the £60m turnover, 80-store chain she leads today. Tenison recalled how hard work, determination and adaptability formed the cornerstones of her success, but also gave a great insight into the values that are driving her and her business. She explained her approach to ethical trading and Corporate Social Responsibility and a commitment to putting people first, whether that’s setting up and supporting charitable foundations in Africa, looking after her staff with flexible working arrangements (even letting them
bring their dogs to work, no less!) to close relationships with customers. Interestingly, despite running an evergrowing chain of stores, Tenison said she is still an independent retailer at heart, and that even today she is independently minded in all her business decisions. Impassioned, she said: “I really believe in independent retailers and in reviving the high street. And I believe we are seeing a bit of a regeneration of the high street.” Tenison may well be onto something, as a new study reveals that 8 out of 10 consumers prefer to shop in small independents rather than big chains, citing the personal customer service and support for the local community as key reasons, with only price being the main factor in choosing to shop in larger stores. Clothing actually came second after grocery in consumers’ preference for smaller stores, which is certainly an encouraging sign for our sector. With fashion retail one of the most dynamic and perpetually evolving industries, we have asked four established indies about the key lessons they have learned about running a shop and their top tips for new start-ups. The answers are certainly revealing and fascinating – read the article on page 36. Finally, don’t forget to check out our brand new website www.wwb-online.co and catch up on daily news, interviews and unique features.
WWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group PLC company
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8 OUT OF 10 UK SHOPPERS PREFER INDIES
JACKET REQUIRED LAUNCHES WOMENSWEAR
Boosting the local economy among the reasons why people use a smaller business.
Premium fashion trade show Jacket Required is introducing a womenswear edit at its s/s 18 edition, held 26 to 27 July at the Truman Brewery in London.
A recent survey by Liberis, a UK alternative finance provider, reveals that 8 out of 10 consumers plan to use independent businesses in preference to larger businesses this year. The survey examines current consumer attitudes towards small businesses, with the data revealing that 65 per cent of respondents were aware that using a smaller provider can be more expensive, but that the benefits of doing so outweighed the increased costs, as 48 per cent still wanted to boost the local economy and support their community. According to the findings, convenience and leisure are the main reasons why consumers choose a small business over a larger retailer. 58 per cent of respondents said they use a grocery and convenience store the most, with 55–64 year olds selecting this as their most used type of independent store. Clothing, jewellery, books, music and gift retailers were the second most utilised businesses at 45 per cent. Almost 50 per cent of those polled said that they shop small to support independent establishments, indicating that this plays an important role in purchasing decisions. Furthermore, 51 per cent of those polled said there is a noticeable difference between the quality of customer service offered in small businesses compared to larger stores. However, 50 per cent of consumers said that a ’limited product range’ selection is the number one drawback to using a small business. Almost half (48 per cent) said that smaller stores tend to be more expensive.
Having established itself as a key menswear destination on the international buying calendar, selected brands will introduce a womenswear edit at the show, providing a platform for its existing exhibitor and visitor profile’s female counterparts, and driving the growing trend for sophisticated street and casual clothing for women. “Bringing a selection of womenswear to Jacket Required has been something under discussion with brands and buyers for a number of seasons, and it now feels like the time is right,” says Alice Elliott, event director. “We have a number of labels which are extremely relevant to the women’s market as they stand, and certain exhibitors have brought a small selection of product for this market to showcase to relevant stores who already visit the show. The upcoming edition of Jacket Required will see this concept expand beyond a unisex offering, and allow our brands to present a strong womenswear edit of its spring/ summer 2018 collection to targeted retailers.” Jacket Required offers a carefully edited line-up of international brands across apparel, footwear, accessories and lifestyle products, with womenswear collections from the likes of Alpha Industries, Armor Lux, Birkenstock, Clarks Originals, Cole Haan, Cuisse de Grenouille, Deadwood, Dickies, Girls of Dust, Ellesse, Fracap, Le Coq Sportif, Lee Jeans, Red Wing, Sandqvist, Santa Cruz, Schott NYC, Teva and Wrangler already confirmed. The show is open exclusively to buyers. For more information and pre-registration visit www.jacket-required.com.
FOR DAILY NEWS, ANALYSIS AND UPDATES, VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO
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NEWS IN BRIEF
DESIGNERS WIN BFC FASHION TRUST GRANTS
UK CONSUMERS PREPARE FOR PRICE HIKES
The British Fashion Council’s charitable initiative BFC Fashion Trust has awarded grants totalling £450,000 between 11 designers, the largest donation by the trust to date. New 2017 recipients are Edeline Lee, Georgia Hardinge, Isa Arfen, Sharon Wauchob and Teatum Jones. Previous recipients who continue to receive funding are Eudon Choi, Fyodor Golan, Huishan Zhang, Marques’Almeida, Osman and Rejina Pyo. The BFC Fashion Trust was founded in February 2011 to offer selected designers mentoring and financial support. As part of the programme in 2017 designers will benefit from legal advice from Taylor Wessing and Livia Firth, while her team at Eco-Age will be mentoring on sustainability and industry best practice. The philanthropic programme is developed in partnership with co-chairs Tania Fares and Sian Westerman, along with the BFC, and the Fashion Trust Advisory Committee.
Latest research by market analyst Mintel reports that UK consumers are anticipating an expensive future ahead. Over four in five (83 per cent) Brits are currently concerned about seeing price rises on goods and services, with 59 per cent worried about the mounting cost of groceries, 35 per cent worried about the climbing cost of holidays and 26 per cent fearing that clothes prices will soar. According to the findings, Brits are also worried about ‘bigger picture’ issues. As many as 81 per cent of UK consumers are concerned about the future health of the NHS, while 68 per cent are worried about the UK economy and 67 per cent are nervous about the state of the environment. People appear less concerned by issues relating to their personal situation, with half (48 per cent) of all adults concerned about their ability to pay the bills and fewer than two in five (37 per cent) worried about their level of debt.
TOP NAMES FOR MODA NOIR The s/s 18 edition of Moda Noir is set to reveal one of its strongest line-ups to date, with big international names from the evening, prom and occasionwear sector joining the cream of domestic labels alongside a raft of newcomers. Among the high-profile new signings is Spanish brand Luis Civit, as well as fellow Spanish party and cocktailwear specialist Lexus. The label will join other new and returning specialist brands in the sector, with big names such as Paola Collection, Carla Ruiz, the Veromia portfolio, including Dress Code, Dressed Up, Veromia Occasions and Irresistible – which celebrates its 10th anniversary this year – Mascara, Linea Raffaelli, Sonia Pena, Ronald Joyce, Gabriella Sanchez, Cabotine, Zeila, Renata, John Charles and Ann Balon forming the diverse line-up.
DEADLINE LOOMS FOR PRS FOR MUSIC COMPETITION The deadline for entries for the PRS for Music competition is Friday 16 June at 5pm. Following last year’s successful launch, the company is once again offering fashion independents the chance to win a ‘Music Makeover’. Last year attracted more than 130 entries, with Accent Clothing in Leeds winning the coveted prize. For 2017, PRS for Music is once again offering the £5,000 makeover alongside runners-up prizes of £2,500. To enter, retailers need to have a valid PRS for Music licence and complete the quick entry form at www.prsformusic.com/musicmakeover. K-WAY OPENS FIRST UK STORE IN COVENT GARDEN Italian rainwear brand K-Way has opened its first UK Plug@sell store in London, located at 4 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. The 140 sq m hi-tech and cash register-free store offers customers the ability to pay for their purchases anywhere in the store, through the use of tablets. Plasma, digital factotums and iPads throughout the store allow customers and staff to locate items, obtain info on the K-Way products in store, and receive updated information on promotions, discounts and news. OBITUARY: ELLIOTT BROWN Elliot Brown, managing director EMEA at Perry Ellis International, has died at the age of 47. Brown’s career in the fashion industry spanned over 25 years; having started at Harvey Nichols he progressed to a senior role at Marc O’Polo, subsequently holding positions at Wolverine World Wide, Converse, Levi Strauss and Barbour. Outside of work, Brown developed a passion for participating in triathlons, always performing at his best and facing challenges in a wholehearted manner. He is survived by his wife Zillah and daughter Zara.
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NEWS IN BRIEF
HOUSE OF FRASER ACQUIRES ISSA
STRONG FIRST QUARTER FOR INDIE RETAIL
UK department store group House of Fraser has acquired London-based premium fashion brand Issa for an undisclosed sum. The Issa brand was launched in 2003 by Brazilian-born, London-based designer Daniella Helayel. Initially focused on creating silk jersey dresses in flattering silhouettes, it gained highprofile celebrity customers, including Kylie Minogue, Elizabeth Hurley and Kate Middleton. The acquisition of Issa is in line with House of Fraser’s new strategic vision and review of the Group’s House Brand portfolio, concentrating on improving the quality and designs of a more focused portfolio. The first new Issa range will be available both instore and online from a/w 17. The range is launching with 50 options including key styles made with the iconic archive Issa prints. Marabou jackets, jumpsuits and a range of clutch and shoulder bags will also be included in the collection.
The retail sector could be strengthening in 2017 after years of decline and small gains, data released by cloud-based point of sale software provider Vend and LDC, in partnership with the British Independent Retail Association (Bira), reveals. Data from Bira shows that across independent retail, more shops opened than closed in the first quarter of 2017. This was an increase of +414 shops in the first three months of the year, equalling four new stores a day, compared to a net increase of just +4 shops in 2016. These figures are supported by Vend’s customer data, which shows a 15 per cent increase in sales and retail spending in the first quarter of 2017 compared to the same period last year, based on a sample of 1,000 UK Vend retailers. In London, where Vend has a large concentration of independent retail customers, sales rose by 18 per cent in Q1 compared with last year.
AVERAGE WEDDING GUEST SPENDS OVER £100 ON OUTFIT New research from market analyst Mintel reveals that the average wedding guest spends over £100 on glamorous attire for special occasions. Of those who have bought a new outfit for a wedding in the last three years, the average consumer spend was £101, rising to £104 amongst male guests. Outfits aren’t the only item that guests are splurging on, with gift-givers spending £76 on average on wedding presents. Guests who travel to and from the event see costs averaging £63, while for those booking accommodation, expenditure averages £61. The day itself can also prove pricey, with drinks bought at weddings costing £31 on average, and other miscellaneous costs averaging £30. Nearly half (49 per cent) of all adults surveyed have attended at least one part of a wedding in the last three years with a further 14 per cent attending a hen or stag party.
ROBERT CLERGERIE APPOINTS NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR Footwear brand Robert Clergerie has appointed a new creative director, David Tourniaire-Beauciel, following the announcement of Perry Oosting as CEO in April, opening a new chapter in the brand’s signature masculine/ feminine footwear. Tourniaire-Beauciel has a long career history, having designed footwear for Jean-Paul Gautier, Margiela, Phoebe Philo at Chloe, Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy, Stella McCartney and Denma Gvasalia at Balenciaga as well as having relaunched Salvatore Ferragamo’s footwear collections. TourniaireBeauciel’s first fully designed collection will be a/w 18. PREMIUM BRANDS COMMIT TO MEADOWHALL Sheffield shopping venue Meadowhall has announced five new lettings to Flannels, Neal’s Yard, Godiva, Tag Heuer and Nespresso, plus four store redesigns by House of Fraser, All Saints, Hollister and Hugo Boss. These lettings and redesigns complement the centre’s £60m refurbishment which is currently underway, as well as the £16m retailer investment made by 42 brands that have redesigned stores since the start of the refurbishment last year. A further 31-store reformat project is currently taking place, due to complete in line with the refurbishment programme towards the end of this year. INDEPENDENT FASHION BRAND DEBUTS AT FLEMINGATE Verb, a new independent fashion brand, has opened at Flemingate, Beverley. The brand takes a 1,550 sq ft store adjacent to fellow independent retailer and jeweller Guest and Philips. The store stocks menswear brands including Florentino, Gibson London, Pearly King, Brooks Taverner, Mac Jeans, Alberto Jeans and Goodwin Smith Shoes, as well as an expanding range of womenswear.
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Elle Sport
NEWS IN BRIEF
COTTON 2040 INITIATIVE LAUNCHES
FASHION SVP LAUNCHES ATHLEISURE FOCUS
Leading international brands and retailers, cotton standards, existing industry initiatives and other stakeholders across the supply chain have come together to form Cotton 2040. Organised by British non-profit organisation Forum for the Future, with support from the C&A Foundation, the aim of the cross-industry initiative is to create change through collaborative action, overcoming barriers so that sustainable cotton becomes a mainstream commodity. The initiative includes leading retailers M&S and Target; industry standards Better Cotton Initiative and Cotton Made in Africa (CMiA), organic standards (represented by Textile Exchange), the Fairtrade Foundation, industry initiatives Cotton Connect, IDH, Cotton Australia, Value Added in Africa and Organic Cotton Accelerator as well as the London College of Fashion.
The significant growth of the athleisure wear sector has prompted sourcing exhibition Fashion SVP to launch a dedicated feature for high performance fabrics at its next edition. Athleisure Pace will comprise a garment display featuring leading apparel producers of athleisure wear, as well as an interactive feature on performance and technical fabric, specially curated in co-operation with CITEVE, Portugal’s key technological institute providing support and services to textile and clothing companies. “Athleisure is growing at an exciting rate and consumers are demanding innovative ideas and designs from the brands,” says Buzz Carter, director of Fashion SVP. “We’re delighted to respond to this fast-moving trend by providing show visitors with up-to-the-minute information and advice about how, where and what to source.” The next edition of Fashion SVP takes place at London’s Olympia on 27-28 June 2017.
75 PER CENT GROWTH FOR MISSGUIDED UK fast-fashion retailer Missguided has once again achieved strong growth for the 12 months to March 2017, with revenues increasing by 75 per cent to £206m. International sales, having grown by more than 130 per cent, now account for over 40 per cent of the total business. The rise is attributed to Missguided’s aggressive programme of investment as well as the strong underlying profit growth across its multiple channels. Innovative marketing campaigns have continued to underpin the development of the brand throughout the year, alongside collaborations with supermodel Jourdan Dunn and global influencers Carli Bybel and Natasha Oakley. Missguided has also progressed its multi-channel offering with the opening last November of a 21,000 sq ft flagship store in Westfield Stratford, as well as the opening of its third Selfridges concession in Birmingham’s Bullring centre.
ONLINE MARKETPLACE ONBUY PARTNERS WITH AWARDWINNING UK FIRM British online marketplace OnBuy.com has signed a two-year partnership deal for hosting and support with leading online cloud services provider UKFast as it prepares for a surge in traffic. The partnership ensures the stability and speed of the OnBuy platform in anticipation of a significant rise in the number of sellers and consumers using the site ahead of the rollout of a nationwide TV campaign. It also brings a host of other benefits such as increased reliability and data security. UKFast, a business-to-business hosting company based in Manchester, is an industry leader for managed hosting, cloud services and colocation. GANDYS LAUNCHES FIRST WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION London based ethical brand Gandys has launched its first womenswear collection to sit alongside its men’s range and signature flip flops and accessories. Key styles include elevated basics such as dungaree dresses, cotton wrap skirts, print tees, slouchy sweaters, khaki jumpsuits, boyfriend shirts and embroidered camis. Proceeds from all sales will go to the brand’s charitable projects, including the build of a second school campus and home for children in Malawi. H&M LAUNCHES LOYALTY SCHEME H&M has launched H&M Club in the UK, a new loyalty scheme open to all customers. The programme will be available on the HM App, where H&M Club members will be rewarded one point for every pound spent in store and online which can then unlock exclusive offers and brand experiences. A 25 per cent birthday discount, free online delivery, exclusive previews of forthcoming collections, goody bags and freebies as well as the chance to attend global launch events and exclusive parties around the world are also part of the scheme.
England - Joanna Edwards Tel: 07989 014141 Email: info@joannaedwardsagency.co.uk Midlands & S.West - Nathan Howe Tel: 07966 764382 Email: nathan@josephhowe.co.uk Scotland - Graeme Ross Tel: 07890 101126 Email: rossfashions@gmail.com Come see us at Moda 6 - 8 August 2017 Stand U7
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Talking Point
Your views on the issues shaping the industry Bespoke partnerships are a recipe for success
MICHAEL SHALDERS is the co-owner of fashion distribution agency Love Brands Ltd It hardly needs stating that the industry is experiencing a raft of changes at the moment as it adapts to ‘challenging circumstances’. One of the changes we’ve noticed, especially among many premium provincial independent department stores, is a general move towards establishing a controlled space and utilising the advantages which this affords. Staffed concessions prove popular with the larger stores, such as House of
These flats were made for walking
PAMELA SHIFFER is the owner of the eponymous store in Primrose Hill, London. The other week, whilst walking to the tube, I made an unusual observation. I was wearing ankle boots with a smallish heel as the weather still felt quite cold; I was marching, rather than walking, to avoid getting soaked due to heavy showers and I seemed to be the only person whose footwear made a noise. Becoming really conscious of this as I boarded the tube, I looked around to see what my fellow commuters’ footwear was like.
Fraser, but we’re also seeing contemporary luxury independents looking to negate risk, while protecting their own identity and style. In effect, there are four levels, which give stores the choice to find an arrangement which meets their own business needs. There’s the staffed concession; the shop-in-a-shop – staffed by the retailer but enjoying the conceptual strength of a concession; the soft-shop concept, without the full gamut of furniture, light fittings and signage but still benefiting from branded hangers, limited furnishing opportunities and perhaps a light box. Finally, there is the ID-corner, which offers enhanced visuals, superior PoS and, again, branded hangers. With smaller shops seeking to compete in a challenging marketplace, a partnership with an established brand provides security, something we hear repeatedly from our customers. The ability to buy independently, while receiving insights on styles and bestsellers is reassuring, while the contribution towards mark-downs and the right to return helps to drive sell-through. We hear more and more about the ‘experience’ of shopping and how important it is to the customer journey and conversion. Staff training and product knowledge are crucial to this
and our retailers find that receiving that support from a supplier enhances the instore experience and motivates the staff. Since any form of controlled space is collaboration, that level of support and de-risking helps those smaller boutiques to compete with the larger players. It’s a development which we’ve observed with great interest. The brands appreciate that the retailer knows their customer better than they do, while they can steer the retailer towards the strongest styles and product. There’s no shortage of product on the high street and our customers know this all too well. A collection with a story and a strong identity will always have that added appeal, and multi-brand boutiques in a controlled space brand partnership benefit hugely from enhanced visuals, local marketing and PoS materials in this respect. Ellesport has performed incredibly well for us for a couple of years now and this sort of collaborative, interactive approach really aids sellthrough. We’ve also been rolling out the soft-shop concept with Stefanel with great success. A contemporary luxury brand such as Stefanel enjoys an aspirational status where a bespoke partnership with premium independents is proving to be a recipe for success.
As you’d expect, it was a sea of flats, trainers and pumps which have become the norm – quite rightly, too, because as a commuter comfort comes first. However, at what point did heels die a death on the way to work? Now I’m not talking about the skyscraper type of heels that only come out during an evening event or party, I’m talking about the small heels that suffice in an office situation. The irony is, we sell shoes in my shop and almost without noticing the only ‘heels’ we have demand for are wedges, for the very reason that you feel more stable while running to the tube or attending an event. Do you think it’s an age thing and maybe we’ve all finally listened to our mothers and subconsciously ditched our flattering heels for comfort, speed and peace? As dressing for what used to be formal situations becomes more casual, and heels for many are being replaced by pumps or trainers – albeit the designer type – are we in danger of ‘dumbing down’ elegance and style in favour of a diluted attempt to be cool and sporty? It feels very much like that to me, which is kind of good news for the next generation, because then hopefully
painful bunions will become a thing of the past – only to be replaced with fallen arches, bad posture and flat feet. Of course there are exceptions to the rule at the other end of the designer scale, where you see amazing, outrageous, innovative design being developed for the few who have the lifestyle and personality to carry it off. However, for us mere mortals skipping through the working week, our feet seem to be planted firmly on the floor, making way for hundreds, if not thousands of footwear brands and manufacturers to hopefully develop flattering and comfortable footwear that’s not only on trend, but which has a statement feel... as well as arch lifters already inbuilt? Just a thought. So it feels like those heady days of our daughters dressing up in their mothers’ high heels and parading them round the house will soon become a thing of the past, and the obligatory rite of passage of dressing up will be replaced by clunky sneakers and trainers instead. Feels like a shame to me. Maybe I’m being nostalgic, but give me heels any day. Because who doesn’t love an extra inch or two?
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Caroline Ekström set up her Oldstrom Agency five years ago with an emphasis on bringing in key Scandinavian labels to the UK market. It’s a growing business, with plans for further developments, and potential new brand additions for s/s 18, as Tom Bottomley discovers. How long has the Oldstrom Agency been established and what are your key brands? I started Oldstrom Agency in 2012; I currently carry five brands, and I specialise in bringing brands into the UK from my home countries Sweden and Denmark. My key brands currently are Dea Kudibal and Echo New York. I have slightly different strategies for each brand. For example, for Dea Kudibal I have chosen a distribution strategy focusing on independent boutiques. This has meant that I have built up a very loyal and exclusive customer base for the brand. Where is your showroom and what brands will you have there for the s/s 18 selling season? My showroom is in the heart of Shoreditch and I will start showing s/s 18 from early July. I will have the new Dea Kudibal collection, which I had a tiny preview of last month when I went to Copenhagen, and the prints are looking fantastic. We are introducing lots of new dresses. I am particularly excited about some evening silk dresses that I have requested which will be perfect for summer weddings. I am also showing Echo New York, which offers everything in accessories, from beach kaftans to hats and everything in between. With Caroline Svedbom, everything is made to order in their factory in Greece, so I always sell that brand short-order for a quick delivery. As a result, I will be selling Caroline Svedbom for the a/w 17 season. Have you got any new brands coming in to your agency for s/s 18? I am currently in talks with a new brand, but it is all very early days and top secret right now! It will be my second season showing Swedish brand By Malina, which I am very excited about as the collection is mainly occasionwear, so spring/summer is a key season.
CAROLINE EKSTRÖM DIRECTOR, OLDSTROM AGENCY
What are the most important shows for you to exhibit at and why? I have always shown at Scoop, which matches very well with the brands and clients that I have. I am also at Copenhagen Fashion Week, where I scout for new brands but also to catch up with other agents, the brands and to get a general feel for the season. In July I am bringing Caroline Svedbom and Dea Kudibal to
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Scoop and, as always, I am expecting a strong response to the collections. How do you see the role of a good agency in today’s market where social media and online plays an increasingly large role for retailers? I think it is important that the brands and agents support the stores with content for social media. It all helps to create a story and I think, particularly for the smaller independents, it really helps to nurture that personal relationship. This year I have seen an increasingly large number of boutiques opening web stores. Customers also report that they are having fantastic response from Instagram. They will post an image and receive orders via the phone or messages. This is something that I can only see growing as people get increasingly accustomed to it. What would you say is your agency’s USP? What do you do differently? I offer a very personal relationship with my customers. They know they can call me anytime, whether it is to get a special order in, or with any issues they may have. For me it is important to build good long-term relationships with both my brands and clients and to ultimately find products that are good value, good quality and offer a point of difference. What plans do you have for taking your business forward this year and into 2018? I have seen steady growth year on year since starting the agency. Everything has happened very organically. At the beginning of 2017 I moved to a permanent showroom, and I think that soon it may be time to expand the team – particularly if I sign the additional brand I’m currently in talks with. Watch this space, as they say. What are your best performing brands right now for Oldstrom? The brand with the biggest growth is Dea Kudibal. Our customers all seem to have a fantastic sell-through with the brand, which is all you can ever wish for as an agent. The brand seems to hit just the right price point and quality for affordable luxury.
Are any of the brands you carry looking to open a retail store? Not a full retail entity, however, we are launching concessions with House of Fraser with Caroline Svedbom this month. What key trends do you see emerging that you think will have an impact on wholesale sales for s/s 18? The pyjama and kimono trend continues. They can both be found in the Kudibal and By Malina collections for s/s 18, and they are sure to get a strong reaction. In accessories, the scarf, and particularly the skinny scarf, continues to be a key piece. How many UK accounts do you sell to and which have been key to support the growth of the agency? I sell to approximately 150 accounts across the different brands. Lynne from Little London in Chichester was one of the first to support me when I set up by myself. She is also one of my biggest Dea Kudibal customers. Some customers that I have dealt with throughout my career in fashion wholesale are Fifi and Moose in Newbury, Sister in Sheffield, Esse in Cambridge, Bibi & Mac in Salcombe and Utopia in Ireland. What market feedback are you getting from retailers as to how it is ‘out there’ right now? My customers are generally reporting that things are well. I think online is both the biggest opportunity but also a big challenge. Price transparency and the cost and time of managing online seem to be the biggest barriers. Do you also carry in-season stock to capitalise on bestsellers and key trends? If so, what brands are performing in that respect? Yes, we carry stock on both Dea Kudibal and Echo New York. For Dea Kudibal this has proven to increase sales significantly. I normally receive a couple of re-orders every week. We also offer a staff discount which encourages staff to buy into the brand and in turn helps increase sales. After all, when you see product looking good on someone else it’s more likely to catch other people’s interest.
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Style File
The hottest brands not to miss this month q STAY TOONED Scotch & Soda’s denim label Amterdams Blauw is collaborating with Universal Brand Development to create an exclusive capsule collection around the world’s oldest cartoon character, Felix the Cat. Creative director Marlou van Engelen and head of graphic design Susan Meinen were granted exclusive access to the Felix archives for the collection, which includes denim and sportswear for men, women and children.
u ALL THAT GLISTENS Premium fashion brand Rain is the brainchild of Abigail Love, who has previously worked at a range of top high street retailers. The brand specialises in embellished dresses, sequinned separates and bold jumpsuits with a price range of £80-£250. Rainbow decorated sequinned playsuits and a blush pink and silver sequin tasselled top are among the highlights.
Young fashion brand Wolf & Whistle has created a swimwear line featuring floral and snake prints on cut-out swimsuits, triangle macramé back bikini tops and hipster briefs. The brand’s famous white lace-up textured swimsuit is also now available as a bandeau bikini and high waisted bikini bottoms. The range is available in various sizes and fuller cups up to F cup.
t PRINTS CHARMING Danish accessory brand Becksöndergaard’s latest collection is full of personality and character, offering scarves, knits, bags, purses, belts and jewellery. Unmistakably Scandinavian, the designs have a quirky touch which is seen in colour choices, details and the brand’s signature hand-drawn scarves. The label is also making waves with its handbags featuring raw leather, sophisticated details and functionality.
p ECO STYLE WARRIOR Finnish-Australian fashion label Taikka has launched its first collection of sustainable clutch bags, ananas+. Crafted from Piñatex, a plant based leather alternative, the range features two clutch bags in classic black and metallic gold.
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Bright stuff The hyper bright trend is perfect for the lighter summer months. A new colour code has taken over s/s collections with a simple message: wear it loud and proud. Rebecca Jackson selects the best of the trend. 04/
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1/ GUESS £64 01635 277277 • 2/ SPEEDO £47 0345 850 8582 • 3/ MI-PAC £10.40 020 7739 7620 4/ COLLECTIF £17.50 020 7511 6224 • 5/ LES GEORGETTES £35.60 0033 1445 48604 6/ STORM £34.99 020 7874 6900 • 7/ JOSEPH RIBKOFF £78 01392 876390 • 8/ BEIJA LONDON £20 020 8487 7614 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
04 - 06 july 2017 – kraftwerk berlin mitte
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“The future is full of opportunity” The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) held its annual High Street Conference last month, discussing the challenges of retailing and the impact technology has on the store landscape of the future. Isabella Griffiths reports from the day and sums up some of the highlights.
Last month the British Independent Retailers Association invited its members and key industry personalities to come together at Bristol’s Marriott Royal Hotel and discuss the challenges and opportunities SMEs are facing in an increasingly digitalised world. The jam-packed agenda saw high profile speakers, ranging from retailers and academics to thought leaders and business coaches, deliver an insightful series of speeches and workshops throughout the day. Professor Jonathan Reynolds, academic director of the Oxford Institute of Retail Management and deputy dean at the University of Oxford’s Saïd Business School, shared some recent findings and research on ‘Navigating the new retail landscape’. He identified key sources of future uncertainty which are influencing and changing the retail sector, namely Knowledge, Competition and Technology. “Firstly, customers know more, and with that, they want more,” he said. “Consumers today are very ‘now’-focused. They want seamless immediacy while also having a personalised experience. An increasing amount of people want to be participative shoppers,” he added. With regards to his second point, competition, he explained: “Everyone’s a retailer now, from traditional vendors, through logistics businesses, through media and social media enterprises to payment providers,” he said, emphasising the impact of this growing competition on traditional retail stores. Exploring the third uncertainty, technology, he commented on the unstoppable growth of e-commerce and outlined the spread of virtual and augmented reality in retail, innovations in supply chains and logistics – for example the use of drones and driverless vehicles – as well as longer term developments such as DIY production of goods via 3D printers, which are becoming increasingly commonplace across a variety of industry sectors, including fashion. However, Reynolds retained a positive outlook and stressed that despite these uncertainties and innovations, there were still opportunities for independent retailers to be seized. “You have to ask yourself as independent retailers – where are the opportunities? How can independents take advantage of this? The glass is half full, not half empty,” he said, explaining: “Sources of advantage for
indies are firstly in the environment they operate in. It’s about personalisation, participation and authority – customers’ behavioural trends match independent retailers’ values. They are inherently more adaptable and flexible. Incremental product and process innovation can be introduced on a faster and cheaper scale, and resources can be allocated much quicker. Remember, indies are much more agile,” he encouraged. Summarising his talk, Reynolds concluded: “The physical role of retailing activity is becoming different in scale and characteristics, but look at it positively and not as a problem. The future is full of opportunity.” Reynolds’ talk was followed by workshops held by digital experts from Google Digital Garage. Google’s Abbey Oladapo outlined how to gain a competitive advantage in the ever-changing digital landscape, especially when it comes to marketing stores online. “Businesses who have a digital strategy grow twice as fast as those who don’t, so this is very important,” he said. “Optimising and managing your store’s presence on Google for searches is vital,” he began, explaining that the consumer purchase journey has significantly changed, and that from initial stimulus through to actual purchase and shopping experience lies an additional step – product research, whereby it’s vital for stores to have a positive presence and digital footprint with good feedback and reviews. “Research influences purchase decisions, so that’s why you as a retailer want to be easily found,” he continued, highlighting the need for mobile responsible sites. “Does your site shine across all devices? No one wastes their time anymore on sites that don’t work properly or are hard to navigate. If people have a bad experience, they won’t come back, it’s as simple as that,” he said. “Ninety-five per cent of consumers have searched for a local business last year; 87 per cent look for three to five star ratings before they will use a business and 76 per cent visit a business within a day of searching for one – so you need to have a presence. Local marketing and mobile are a match made in heaven,” he remarked. ‘The trends shaping the retail industry and what to do to keep up’ was the topic of speaker Mark Cooper, vice president EMEA at omnichannel specialist Vend. He began by saying: “True
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omnichannel is about selling more, or upselling. Use a retail solution that lets you sell online and offline with one system.” Citing a recent study of 46,000 consumers he added: “Seventythree per cent have used multiple channels throughout their shopping journey, while 23 per cent of omnichannel shoppers logged more shopping trips to the retailers’ stores and were more likely to recommend a brand. Your customers are no longer using one channel – and neither should you,” he urged, stressing that an automated stock management system that coordinates online and offline is crucial to maximise omnichannel retail. Other topics of the day included ‘Retail brand therapy’, held by retail branding expert Phil Dean, founder of brand communications agency Certain and ‘Managing key staffing issues’ by employment lawyer Sarah Simcott, as well as talks on the recent business rate reforms by expert Mark Radford, and Neil Mackay, co-owner of Cambridge hardware indie Mackays, on his mission against store theft. The day concluded with a keynote address by Laura Tenison, founder of baby and maternity specialist JoJo Maman Bebe, who gave an inspirational insight into her journey from one-woman start-up to becoming one of the most prominent international retailers in its sector. Relaying how she built her now 80-strong retail chain with a £60m turnover from humble beginnings in
1993 and sharing her strong beliefs in ethical retailing and corporate social responsibility, which form the cornerstones of the business, she said: “I really believe in independent retailers and in reviving the high street. We might have 80 stores, but we are still independently minded. We are a chain of independent stores, and at heart, I’m an independent retailer.” Tenison shared key points of advice on how to grow a business and the lessons she has learned over more than two decades of successful trading: “My mother instilled a sense of being frugal and a waste not, want not attitude in me, and this has always guided my business decisions. Also, believe in what you sell – it doesn’t matter what it is. You have to believe that you give true value for money,” she offered. Continuing, she said: “Omnichannel retail is here to stay, and it’s not easy to be just a pure-play bricks and mortar store anymore. You need to have an online profile. But don’t forget to connect with your customers. Do events in your store. You may not think it’s worth the effort, and maybe, from a monetary point of view it isn’t – but it means your face is out there and you’re engaging and meeting your customer. It’s vital for brand building,” she said. — For more information on the high street conference and membership of Bira, visit www.bira.co.uk.
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Alembika’s ambitions Israeli womenswear brand Alembika has been selling in the UK for the past three years, and with strong sell-throughs and a growing fanbase the brand is ready to accelerate its expansion. Cue a new partnership that is set to achieve just that. Isabella Griffiths finds out more.
Since launching to the UK in August 2014 for the s/s 15 season, contemporary Israeli label Alembika’s growth has been consistent, but mainly organic. According to husband-and-wife team Michelle Crossland and Phil Day, owner of Manchester based fashion agency Phil Day Ltd, which launched Alembika in the UK and acts as its distributor, the focus so far has been on placing the brand in carefully selected accounts rather than (over) exposing it too fast and too widely. This philosophy has stood them in good stead, with Alembika now stocked in 45 high quality indies across the UK, including Bridge of Solihull, Loose Ends of Lymington, Robes of Hereford and Carole Ridley, which has stores in Whitstable, Sandwich and Tenterden. But, three years in, with Alembika’s popularity rising and sell-throughs at record highs, it’s obvious that’s there is potential for more, and Crossland and Day are now at a stage where they feel they can take the label to the next level. Which is where Nigel and Claudia Hughes, owners of fellow fashion agency Apt Collections, come into the picture. Together the two agencies are embarking on a new partnership with the aim of pooling both agencies’ huge catalogues of experience and contacts to grow the label further. Having known each other personally and professionally for over 30 years, it seems like a perfect match, and both parties speak highly of one another. “We are looking to expand our customer base, and, having known Nigel for many years, we know that he will sympathetically take Alembika to the next level by introducing it to the right independent customers. He travels a lot out of season, to visit people in store, so he will aim at the right customer in each area, which is important when maintaining the exclusive profile of the brand,” says Phil Day. Nigel Hughes agrees: “We not only trust each other, but we have the same shared values and philosophies,” he says.
Starting with s/s 18, Phil Day agency will remain the distributor of Alembika, while Apt Collections will act as the UK agency for the brand. Both parties are clearly taken with the label and believe in its commerciality and future success. “Alembika sells. It’s that simple. To all ages, shapes and sizes,” says Michelle Crossland. “It’s extremely easy to wear – no buttons, no zips, no fuss, but in great fabrics. Just wear and go. It’s extremely feminine with outstanding styling, which makes it unique. The price, quality and design are all good, with a fantastic size range of UK 8 to 24.” Hughes concurs: “From the moment I saw the collection, I realised it was something else. The qualities and fabrics Alembika use are not only fantastic, but also fit into the whole philosophy and creative styling of the brand,” he says. Launched in 2005 by fashion designer Hagar Alembik, a graduate of Shenkar School of Design, and Judith Fadlon who holds a doctorate in anthropology, Alembika specialises in exclusive, layered looks with broad and timeless appeal, sitting alongside the likes of Crea Concept, Oska, Sahara, Bitte Kai Rand and Grizas. The company has 13 own stores throughout Israel, from Haifa in the north to Eilat in the south and a flagship in Tel Aviv, where it’s based. It is also distributed through an everexpanding network of independent stores in the US, Canada, France, Germany, Italy, Holland, Belgium, Australia and of course, the UK. The brand has become known for its relaxed shapes and layered looks, with wholesale prices ranging between £59 to £109 for dresses, £35 to £65 for tops and £40 to £65 for trousers. As distributors, Crossland and Day work closely with Alembik to tweak the collections and get them spot-on for the UK market, which may well explain why the brand’s sell-throughs and customer reaction have been so encouraging. “The collaboration between Hagar Alembik and us is very open, based
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on good market feedback and like-minded thinking. We are always insistent that the collection should be perfect for the UK by tweaking and perfecting the smallest of design details that will appeal to the British market,” says Crossland. For Nigel Hughes, whose agency also represents Canadian brand Picadilly, Dutch brand Claudia Sträter and German outerwear brand Polarbear, Alembika is the perfect fit. “Since starting Apt Collections 20 years ago, it has always been our main philosophy to have a brand portfolio that is diverse, both in origin as well as design; Alembika fits right into that. As the independent brand mix changes many times over the years to reflect consumer requirements, we reflect this in the collections we bring into the agency to stay relevant to our customer whilst avoiding conflicts between brands in house,” he explains. Commenting on the wider industry as a whole, he says: “If you go out and visit the independents, you can see the fashion landscape is changing across the country, and has been so for the last few seasons. The traditional 40-plus customer is not only dressing differently, but thinking differently about what and how they really wear their wardrobe. Comfort and lifestyle has made a huge impact on the consciousness of the end user. When I look around the ‘better end’ independent sector, I still see plenty of professional independent boutique retailers who continue to do so well. They need good quality brands that are not only exclusive, but different enough to stand out from the masses; brands that
reinforce the point of difference of them being an independent boutique from the multiples and groups on the high street.” Whilst growth of Alembika is the long-term goal, Hughes stresses that the focus will remain on finding and working in partnerships with the right stores, and he’s therefore hesitant to put a number on the amount of accounts he’d like to open. “It’s not about quantity, it’s about working with good people with shared values and philosophies. We’re looking for retail partners who see the full potential and merit of such a collection like Alembika. We then have to mutually support each other in this relationship,” he says. “I’m astounded when I hear customers telling me that some middle market mainstream brands are now being sold via Amazon. Surely that has to be the death of that brand in the independent’s eyes as it’s their very lifeblood?” he adds. Whilst the selling period for Alembika’s s/s 18 collection will officially commence on 17 July, Hughes says that initial feedback from potential partner stores has been very encouraging and he’s looking forward to getting started. “I have been out seeing potential partners and the reaction has been exceptionally good,” he says, confidently adding: “But then, it would be, with a brand that has a current sell-through like Alembika!” And with 30-odd years of industry experience and more between them, it looks like the Day/Hughes partnership is already off to a flying start.
“ WE ARE LOOKING TO EXPAND OUR CUSTOMER BASE, AND, HAVING KNOWN NIGEL FOR MANY YEARS, WE KNOW THAT HE WILL SYMPATHETICALLY
TAKE ALEMBIKA TO THE NEXT LEVEL BY INTRODUCING IT TO THE RIGHT INDEPENDENT CUSTOMERS.”
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Exhibition Calendar
WWB highlights the essential tradeshows for the s/s 18 season. Sponsored by:
WHITE 17-19 June 2017 Via Tortona 27, 20144 Milan 0039 02 345 92785 www.whiteshow.it TRANOÏ PARIS: WOMEN’S Pre Collections 23-25 June 2017 Carreau du Temple & Palais de la Bourse, Paris 0033 1530 18490 www.tranoi.com INDIA INTERNATIONAL GARMENT FAIR 30 June-2 July 2017 Mahatma Mandir, Gandhi Nagar, Gujarat 0091 124 270 8027 www.indiaapparelfair.com BRIGHT 4-6 July 2017 Am Flutgraben, 12435 Berlin 0049 696 696 2157 www.brighttradeshow.com PANORAMA BERLIN 4-6 July 2017 ExpoCenter City, Berlin 0049 3027 595 6040 www.panorama-berlin.com
PREMIUM 4-6 July 2017 STATION-Berlin, Luckenwalder Straße 4–6, 10963 Berlin 0049 (0)30 629 0850 www.premiumexhibitions.com SEEK 4-6 July 2017 Eichenstrasse 4, 12435 Berlin 0049 3020 8891 3400 www.seekexhibitions.com SHOW&ORDER 4-6 July 2017 Kraftwerk Berlin-Mitte Köpenicker Str. 70, 10179 Berlin 0049 3057 704181 www.showandorder.com MODEFABRIEK 9-10 July 2017 Amsterdam RAI Europaplein 8, 1078 GZ Amsterdam 0031 2044 21960 www.modefabriek.nl
LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW 16-18 July 2017 Radisson Blu Portman Hotel, London W1H www.londonswimwearshow.com SCOOP INTERNATIONAL 16-18 July 2017 Saatchi Gallery, Kings Road London 020 7596 5154 www.scoop-international.com THE LONDON TEXTILE FAIR 19-20 July 2017 The Business Design Centre, Islington, London N1 020 8347 8145 www.thelondontextilefair.co.uk SUPREME 22-25 July 2017 Bennigsen Platz 1 Kaiserswertherstraße/Ecke Karl-Arnold-Platz 40474 Düsseldorf 0049 894 204 479 www.munichfashioncompany.com
HONG KONG FASHION WEEK 10-13 July 2017 Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong 00852 183 0668 www.hktdc.com
6–8 August 2017 NEC Birmingham W H E R E FA S H I O N C O M E S TO G E T H E R
Apply to exhibit or register for your ticket at moda-uk.co.uk
PURE LONDON 23-25 July 2017 Olympia, London 020 3033 2015 www.purelondon.com INDX WOMENSWEAR & FOOTWEAR 2-4 August 2017 Cranmore Park, Solihull 0121 713 4453 www.indxshow.co.uk MODA ACCESSORIES 6-8 August 2017 NEC Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk 01484 846069 MODA FOOTWEAR 6-8 August 2017 NEC Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk 01484 846069 MODA WOMAN 6-8 August 2017 NEC Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk 01484 846069 CIFF 9-11 August 2017 Bella Center, Copenhagen 0045 3252 8811 ciff.dk REVOLVER 9-11 August 2017 Revolver Village Entrance Halmtorvet 11, DK-1700 Copenhagen V 0045 3964 8586 www.revolver.dk
MAGIC 14-16 August 2017 Las Vegas & Mandalay Bay Convention Centers, Las Vegas 001 218 740 6873 www.magiconline.com CPM MOSCOW 30 August-2 September 2017 Expocentre, Moscow 0049 211 439 6397 www.cpm-moscow.com ILM Summer Styles 2-4 September 2017 Messe Offenbach GmbH, Kaiserstrasse 108-112, Offenbach 0049 6982 975520 www.ilm-offenbach.de LONDONEDGE 3-4 September 2017 Business Design Centre, Upper Street, London 0116 279 5179 www.londonedge.com BIJORHCA 8-11 September 2017 Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 1 4756 5282 www.bijorhca.com WHO’S NEXT X PREMIERE CLASSE 8-11 September 2017 Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 1 4013 7483 www.whosnext-tradeshow.com
TOP DRAWER 10-12 September 2017 Olympia, London 020 7384 8042 www.topdrawer.co.uk ASIA’S FASHION JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR 13-16 September 2017 AsiaWorld-Expo Hong Kong International Airport, Lantau Island, Hong Kong exhibitions.asiafja.com/9fj LONDON FASHION WEEK 15-19 September 2017 The Store Studios, London 020 7759 1990 www.londonfashionweek.co.uk MICAM 17-20 September 2017 Fiera Milano, Milan 0039 0243 8291 www.micamonline.com PREMIERE VISION PARIS 19-21 September 2017 Parc des Expositions, Paris Nord-Villepinte, Paris 0033 1 7038 7030 www.premierevision.com MOMAD SHOES 22-24 September 2017 IFEMA Convention & Congress Centre, Madrid 0034 902 221 515 www.momad.metropolis.ifema.es SUPER 23-25 September 2017 The Mall, Porta Nuova Varesine Piazza Lina Bo Bardi, Milan 0039 055 3693492 www.pittimmagine.com CHIC SHANGHAI 11-13 October 2017 National Exhibition & Convention Centre, Shanghai 0049 211 3026 4337 www.chiconline.com.cn
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Premium / Kraftwerk Show & Order Streetwear is a dominant theme at Berlin’s trade show Premium and sister event Kraftwerk Show & Order, with a host of new initiatives, features and, of course, brands on offer this season. WWB takes a look at what visitors can expect at the s/s 18 edition.
The Premium Group is behind Berlin’s leading international fashion events Premium, Kraftwerk Show & Order, Seek and Bright, as well as the platform for innovation, #FASHIONTECH, a conference on the future of fashion. Together the shows represent a total of around 1,800 brands – 80 per cent of which are from abroad – spread over a total area of 51,000 sq m in three locations across Berlin. With new labels making up 20 to 30 per cent each season across all platforms, Premium Group prides itself on providing buyers with a visionary snapshot of the global fashion market. This season the group is introducing a number of group-wide
360˚ initiatives aimed at enhancing the visitor experience further. A Premium Group App will include all events and will guide visitors through all the areas of each show via the GPRS navigation tool. A joint exhibitor catalogue will display comprehensive and relevant information such as brand listing, a brand match tool, a Berlin event calendar and a GPRS based navigation system. Equally, all industry professionals registered to the Premium Group will also receive free entry to #FASHIONTECH. Additionally, a comprehensive shuttle network between all the Premium Group’s shows, partner events and other fashion hotspots offers easy access to all key platforms.
PREMIUM 4-6 July 2017 STATION-Berlin, Luckenwalder Straße 4–6, 10963 Berlin 0049 30 629 0850 www.premiumexhibitions.com KRAFTWERK SHOW & ORDER 4-6 July 2017 Kraftwerk Berlin-Mitte Köpenicker Str. 70, 10179 Berlin 0049 3057 704181 www.showandorder.com
This season’s dominant trend theme across all of the group’s shows is streetwear, which will become a major focus. “Today, streetwear is the best phrase that we have to describe the current global language fashion, music, lifestyle and social media that unites people from all over the world,” explains Anita Tillmann, co-founder of the Premium group. “Over the years, a cocktail of genres like skateboarding, workwear, military and athletic-inspired clothing have blended together to create a streetwear culture that is now the backbone of big directional shifts in mainstream tastes. Even though streetwear is a trend that already has infiltrated all generations from X to Z, this topic is a key trend that retail needs to cater to,” she adds. With a focus on ‘feminine cool’, Kraftwerk Show & Order presents the female take on the streetwear trend, combining dedicated pieces with statement jewellery that make the look complete. Brand highlights from across the show include the likes of Anni Carlsson, Elizabeth and James, Giulia Boccafogli, Gladz, Henry Christ, Japan TKY, Jumper1234, Kridemnon, Le Bonnet, Leah, Lickstarter, Martinenghi, Mrstraps, Marjana Von Berlepsch, Maluo, Nasongo, Parka London, Purelei, Profanter, Steinkult, Sticker Factory, Vive La Difference and XXL Hardwear. Meanwhile, Premium centres its streetwear focus around ‘The Fashionable Distinguished’, oriented more to the classic and glamorous end of the spectrum, showcasing established staple brands as well as a range of specialist offerings. As a whole, Premium addresses the defining trends for the advanced contemporary market. Highlights to watch out for include Alpha Industries, American Vintage, Andy Wolf Eyewear, Armedangels, Barracuda, Birkenstock, Blauer, Briston Watches, C.P. Company, Chevignon, Cecilie Copenhagen, Colmar Originals, Crime London, Crossley, D.A.T.E. Sneakers, Dilly
Socks, Dawn, Elvine, Essentiel Antwerp, Flip Flop, Garment Project, Inuikii, Iphoria, Moa Masters Of Arts, Minimum, Onepiece, Officine Federali, Pyrates, Schiesser Revival, Set, Superga, S’well, The White Brand, Toms, United Nude and many more. With the fashion industry increasingly on the lookout for lucrative add-ons to allow stores to serve as a one-stop shop for their customers and meet all their urban lifestyle needs, beauty products, jewellery, accessories, cosmetics, lifestyle gadgets and styling products are also a key area at both Premium and Kraftwerk Show & Order. From cosmetics through fragrances, lingerie and hosiery, as well as homeware, interior design or gardening products, the spotlight is on a versatile palette of products, complemented by tech gadgets such as speakers, charging leads, docking stations and cases that meet aesthetic demands and are elevated to fashion accessory status. Furthermore, Kraftwerk Show & Order will host tutorials and a beauty conference held by SLEEK Magazine, while visitors will find the only beauty paradise of Berlin Fashion Week on the second floor. As a prestigous highlight, Kraftwerk Show & Order will also have a collection of original Versace pieces on display in order to honour the exceptional work of the late Gianni Versace on the 20th anniversary of his death. Rounding off the shows, this season’s #FASHIONTECH will be focusing more intensively on the keynotes to give a very indepth view on what is the status of each main topic right now, including Wearable Designs & Smart Textiles, The Future of Retail & eCommerce as well as Digital Marketing & Communications. For each of this main topic, masterclasses will take place to foster in-depth knowledge.
160 YEARS IN THE MAKING B E A PA R T O F T H E M O S T E XC LU S I V E K N I T W E A R B R A N D F O R G E N E R AT I O N S A L I M I T E D N U M B E R O F R E TA I L L I S T I N G S A V A I L A B L E . T O E N Q U I R E A B O U T B E C O M I N G A N E X C L U S I V E S T O C K I S T, C A L L + 4 4 ( 0 ) 1 4 8 4 8 4 8 4 3 4 O R E M A I L I N F O R M AT I O N @ S L A I T H. C O. U K
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Panorama Berlin Ever-evolving Berlin tradeshow Panorama returns next month with a strong exhibitor profile of over 100 new brands and further optimised areas. Now reaching its 10th edition, the exhibition doesn’t show any signs of slowing down. Rebecca Jackson takes a look at what’s in store for this season.
Panorama Berlin is firmly rooted in the city’s fashion landscape as one of the key shows to visit for mainstream menswear and womenswear. The show celebrates its 10th edition this season, highlighting its rapid expansion since launching four years ago. With the first edition of Panorama Berlin in January 2013, the exhibition initially took up residency at Berlin’s new airport, BER. After relocating to the central exhibition grounds of Messe Berlin shortly afterwards, the show found its place in the heart of Berlin. Today, the tradeshow is one of Europe’s biggest fashion trade events, exhibiting more than 800 brands in 10 halls. Occupying a total of 50,000 sq m of exhibition space, new designs are showcased in womenswear, menswear, denim and streetwear, shoes and accessories, lingerie and plus size fashion. Marking the 10th edition this season, Panorama continues its focus on the show’s optimised zones, incorporating new centralised presentation areas, and has introduced 100 new brands to its existing portfolio. New names include the likes of Future Cut Cloths, Dansk Smykkekunst, Presly & Sun, Waldläufer, Brunello Barbieri, Neon Rose, D&X London, Aigle, Noisy May, Rockford, Jacqueline De Yong, Titan, New in Town, Aerosoles, Molly Bracken Premium, Holster Australia and We K by Kroll. Ten halls organise a diverse mix of products, which ranges from young and trendy collections (Hall 1) to plus size fashion brands (Halls 7A & B). Visitors to the show can find specific areas
dedicated to menswear, such as the show’s Ma!n area (Hall 2), which presents contemporary labels alongside additional lifestyle products/non-textile items. Key brands in this section include Roy Robson, Nowadays, NZA, Benvenuto, Lerros, Digel, Olymp, Alberto and Milestone. Meanwhile, womenswear is well catered for in the Contemporary area (Hall 4), which features modern womenswear collections from the likes of Marc Cain, Nile, Herrlicher, Dixie, Luisa Cerano, Oui, Raffaello Rossi, Mucho Gusto, Lieblingsstück and Noa Noa. The Shoes and Accessories section (Halls 5 & 6) presents a new structure this season, combining classic brand booths with a more centralised presentation to maximise the impact of the halls’ 150 brands. For the upcoming edition, the Nova Concept area will return to Hall 9, presenting future retail ideas and a portfolio of directional urbanwear collections for men and women, accessories, selected lifestyle articles and technical gadgets. Continuing with last season’s streamlined brand profile, for s/s 18 the emphasis is on denim and its return to the forefront of fashion. Key brands in this area include the likes of Pepe Jeans London, Bench, Palladium, Jack & Jones and Colorado Denim. — Panorama Berlin takes place from 4 to 6 July 2017 at ExpoCenter City, Jafféstraße, 14055 Berlin. For more information visit www.panorama-berlin.com.
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Scoop in the summer
16 to 18 July - Saatchi Gallery, London
Leading boutique trade show Scoop returns to Chelsea in London this season with another exclusive and curated mix of ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear and lifestyle brands, and a host of domestic and international names making their debut. WWB takes a first look at what’s on offer for the show’s s/s 18 edition.
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MR BOHO Accessory brand Mr Boho offers quirky sunglasses and watches Made in Italy. The easy to wear, super cool shades sport a cosmopolitan attitude and distinct aesthetic that bridges the timeless with the on-trend.
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INSANE IN THE RAIN Insane in the Rain is an environmentally conscious brand producing ecological rainwear. The brand’s jackets are made from the recycled plastic RPET, a strong, durable and recyclable material that is used for single-use plastic soda and water bottles. Each jacket helps to reduce unnecessary production of virgin plastic rain jacket fabric and upcycles 17 to 23 plastic bottles that would otherwise pollute the oceans. And with colourful prints and quirky designs, the collections are not only good for the environment, but look stylish, too.
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MILENA ZU Italian designer Milena Zu creates fine-crocheted mesh jewellery entirely woven by hand, using delicate silk yarns, tiny crystals, and embroidery on metallic mesh, to produce a collection that is both timeless and full of edgy chic. The jewellery is made from ethically sourced materials, using low-impact environmentally conscious practices that avoid the use of harmful chemicals. Guided by mathematical calculations to achieve the shape for each design, the jewellery is hand crocheted using a simple crochet hook, a process that cannot be duplicated by machines.
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AHLVAR GALLERY
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PIAGETTI
After 10 years as a designer working for other brands, Frida Ahlvarsson decided to launch her own label. Her mission was to create the perfect blouse for wearing with a pair of black trousers and high heels: a timeless shirt that was neither too cute nor too ladylike, and was sensual yet understated. The brand’s focus remains on blouses with unique seams and cuts, executed in a way that is uncomplicated and easy to carry, yet unique.
Piagetti is the brainchild of London designer Gabriela Piagetti, who comes from an Italian background and studied footwear design in a prestigious manufacturing town in Brazil. She specialises in authentic designs crafted with great detail and sophistication, with handmade petals a signature of the designs. t
GENUIN VERK Hailing from South Korea, Genuin Verk is a young label offering a fresh and sharp collection created by a group of talented independent stylists and designers who collaborate each season to create relevant and original collections with a strong individual signature and innovative silhouettes. It’s a vibrant collection that has fast been gaining international recognition since its launch a year ago.
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Moda
Welcoming a host of contemporary labels across womenswear, footwear, activewear and accessories, Moda’s s/s 18 edition promises to be another packed event. WWB takes a first look at some of the labels not to miss. q
TEMPEST Fashion jewellery brand Tempest is the brainchild of designer Sarah Tempest and has been established since 2005. Following the latest catwalk trends, the brand’s collection is affordable, wearable and ever-changing.
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IRREGULAR CHOICE
ALDO MARTINS
Quirky footwear brand Irregular Choice returns to Moda Footwear this season, presenting its s/s 18 collection featuring a wealth of gem embellishments, detailed embroidery and stunning fabrics and, of course, the brand’s stunning character heels.
Spanish brand Aldo Martins makes its Moda debut this season, bringing its coveted range to the NEC. The s/s 18 collection sports a relaxed boho vibe, with romantic maxi-dresses, skirts and floating tunics key.
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6 to 8 August
NEC Birmingham q
CAPTAIN CORSAIRE Nautical fashion brand Captain Corsaire is returning to Moda this season with its signature lifestyle collection. Breton stripes and relaxed weekend styling are core characteristics of the range, which is available in an array of colours. u
CARLA RUIZ Incorporating vibrant prints, curve-flattering silhouettes and floaty fabrics, Carla Ruiz is presenting its s/s 18 collection aimed at contemporary, modern women with a demand for versatile occasionwear. q
JELLY JOLLY Another quirky edition to Moda Footwear is Jelly Jolly, which specialises in jelly boots for women, men and children. From transparent styles through neon colours to floral patterns, the brand has any conceivable guise of rubber boot in-store. t
ZOHARA Inspired by the stunning north coast of Northern Ireland, Zohara offers two handbag collections as well as a contemporary jewellery collection. Each Zohara piece is crafted from high-quality materials yet offers affordable everyday luxury.
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PRS for Music launches Music Makeover 2017 competition for fashion retailers Following on from its successful launch last year, PRS for Music is proud to relaunch its Music Makeover competition for fashion retailers with the winning prize of a £5,000 makeover. PRS for Music devised the Music Makeover campaign to showcase and raise awareness of how good music can impact businesses. The quality of the sound system itself, the acoustics, music choice and volume all impact your customer and staff experience. Celebrating the value of music in fashion stores, PRS for Music is also offering a bespoke music consultation from a leading music and technology expert advising them on the best use of music in their store and a launch event to celebrate and promote their win featuring live music from PRS for Music members alongside the £5,000 prize. Last year attracted more than 130 entries, with Accent Clothing in Leeds being crowned the winners. The store, which was also voted Best Fashion Retailer in Leeds in 2016, received a bespoke music consultancy from leading record producer Steve Levine who helped them to revamp the store for live performances as it continues to support the local scene. The £5k prize also allowed them to upgrade their in-store sound system across both floors to improve the shopping experience. Accent feels music plays a vital role in their business; it’s about how customers interact when they come into store and creating an environment that they feel welcome in and can relate to on a personal level. As part of the celebrations, PRS for Music hosted a launch party, where rising Leeds act Bianca Gerald, who was dressed by Accent Clothing for last year’s MOBO Awards, and PRS Foundation-supported Marsicans, also from Leeds, performed live upstairs in the revamped store, gaining prestigious national and regional media coverage. “We’re absolutely thrilled with the result; winning this competition is a huge deal for Accent Clothing,” says Becky Schneider, eCommerce Manager at Accent Clothing. “This has given us the ability to do something that we have wanted to do for years: host high quality live music events in store. With the rise of online shopping it is more important than ever that bricks and mortar stores innovate in order to keep customers returning – they have to be a ‘must-visit destination’ in their city. Thank you PRS for Music.”
For 2017, PRS for Music is offering a winning prize of a £5,000 makeover alongside a runners up prize of £2,500. So do you think your fashion store would benefit from a Music Makeover? To enter you need to: 1. Have a valid PRS for Music licence 2. Complete our quick and easy entry form For full details on how to enter, previous winner information and full terms & conditions, please go to: www.prsformusic.com/musicmakeover Deadline is Friday 16 June 2017 at 5pm
www.prsformusic.com/customerportal
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Super Milan trade show Super is welcoming a host of new brands and initiatives to its September edition. WWB sums up the concept behind the increasingly popular womenswear platform.
Italian womenswear show Super, which is part of the Pitti Group of trade events, was set up with the aim of hosting collections of accessories and clothing that stand out for their research, creativity and desire to experiment. From its first edition, which was launched in 2012, this vision characterised the show, with organisers consistently striving for Super to be a project that focuses on quality as well as on an intentionally selective range of brands and companies. As a spokesperson for the show sums it up: “This is why we have carried out all-round scouting with a high level of internationality, of collections not yet too well known but which tick all the right boxes for becoming the players in the fashion world of tomorrow.” Super combines two seemingly juxtaposed concepts. On the one hand it focuses on exclusive products, with high-profile positioning and distribution, and on the other hand it brings together brands that perform very well from a commercial
DATE 23 to 25 September VENUE The Mall Porta Nuova Varesine Piazza Lina Bo Bardi Milan INFO & PRE-REGISTRATION www.pittimmagine.com
point of view and which are sold in carefully selected boutiques and stores. Alongside these, new collections by established names in the international fashion arena feature, with companies that stand out for the quality of their products as well as strong styling and image. At the time of going to press a finalised exhibitor listing was unavailable, but expect to see the likes of 181, Agné Kuzmickaité, Amuse, Bagutta, Flow, Black Dioniso, Naga Rea, Scenarium, Gibsh and Tamar, which have previously exhibited at the show. Super also hosts Super Talents, where 22 young fashion designers from all over the world are selected by Sara Maino from Vogue Talents to present their ranges and creativity at the show. All in all, Super promises to be a well calibrated fashion showcase set up to meet the needs of the market and responding to buyers’ increasing need for a more multifaceted clothing and accessories offer.
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Lessons from the shopfloor If one thing is certain in fashion retail, it’s that it’s a constant evolution. WWB asked four established store owners to share the key lessons they have learned over many years running their respective businesses. PIPPA SANDISON Store: Boudoir Femme, Cambridge Established: 2006 What has been the biggest lesson in fashion retail that you have learned over the years? Trusting my instinct – which it took me a while to realise in this business – realising that you know your customer best, and knowing not to be sold to. Also perfection is a tough place to strive for, so being prepared to compromise has been crucial. If you started out again, what would you do differently? I think everything you do is a lesson learned and therefore valuable experience. I’ve always had faith in each step of developing the business, however challenging it has been. I would definitely not focus as much on the competition as I did in the early days. ANNA PARK Store: Anna, Primrose Hill, Bury St Edmunds, Burnham Market, Saffron Walden, Holt and Woodbridge Established: 1993 What has been the biggest lesson in fashion retail that you have learned over the years? The biggest lesson that I have learned over the 20 years that I have been in business is to recognise when something isn’t working. There is no point in continually sinking money into a collection or even a store that just isn’t performing for you. If it doesn’t work, don’t do it. Equally, if it does work, keep doing it! If you started out again, what would you do differently? My business has grown organically over 24 years. During that time I have opened eight stores, closed two and created an e-commerce website. The only thing I probably would have done differently 10 years ago I entered into a partnership with a friend. It lasted about six months. Thankfully our friendship remained. I would never go into partnership with friends again. What is the best piece of advice you would give new retailers? If you are opening an online store, make sure that you work with a fantastic web designer and keep them. Equally, remember that staff are key in store, so again: train them, look after them, and keep them. Regular clients love continuity and grow to trust the staff. Work hard and stay true to your DNA.
What is the best piece of advice you would give new retailers? Have a clear business plan and direction and know there is a demand for your service or product before setting out, and be prepared to work hard on every aspect of your business from the shopfloor to the boardroom, especially in the early days when staff can be a costly luxury. Once established, analysis and cash management are critical to the ongoing success of every business. Focus on your business and don’t follow the competition. You’ll have highs and lows in fashion retail, but being your own boss should give you the energy to succeed.
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ANGELA WYBREW Store: Angela of Long Melford, Sudbury Established: 1980
ALAN CARMICHAEL WWW.CAPRICORNPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK
What has been the biggest lesson in fashion retail that you have learned over the years? The main thing I’ve learned is to not get too carried away whilst buying. It can be only too easy to see a beautiful collection and get swept away on a tide of enthusiasm and overspend. In some respects, buying for each season is like planning a menu and you have to strike a good balance. You need to have a good selection that’s not too heavy on any particular element, but also, when you have multiple collections from different brands, they need to work well together. My experience has taught me to give a nod to the trends but not to be a slave to them. I keep my customer at the forefront of my mind and go with my gut. The same principle applies to the people I work with. I’ll only work with professional agents with whom I can confidently build a good relationship.
SARAH LYLES Store: Attic, Ilkley Established: 2007 What has been the biggest lesson in fashion retail that you have learned over the years? Not to over-buy stock, when you buy forward order. It’s hard to get a handle on the quantity of stock, however I would advise to keep some of your budget for in-season buying so you can react to any trend or any gaps that you have in your collections or even the weather conditions. If you started out again, what would you do differently? It’s not so much doing something differently, but I’m glad we gave ourselves the space to grow steadily. When we opened Attic Womenswear we started in a small store. The business grew organically and led us to move premises into a large two-floor store in the same town to accommodate all the brands that we currently retail. We are now a multichannel business and launched our website in 2015 to run alongside our bricks and mortar store. What is the best piece of advice you would give new retailers? Build good communication with your brands and suppliers. It means everything to have a good, healthy relationship and brands can help in all sorts of ways with training, promotions and stock support. If you work together, this can have a massive impact on your business and bottom line.
If you started out again, what would you do differently? At one point I had three shops and I admit I found that to be a stretch. My ethos has always been to provide a really superior level of customer service and to do that you have to be very hands-on and devote yourself to nurturing and developing your customer base. I’d started with a small shop in Long Melford and after three years opened a second in Bury St Edmunds. Eight years on we opened our flagship shop in Long Melford but having the three shops left me feeling that my time was spread too thinly. What is the best piece of advice you would give new retailers? I’d say first and foremost to do your research. Check out other shops in other areas and see what works. Think about finding a point of difference that’ll help set you apart. Be prepared to put in the time and effort. Running a boutique is not a hobby and if you don’t have the necessary drive and passion it’ll quickly become apparent. Also, it’s imperative to keep your customer in mind at all times and understand what will and won’t appeal. If you step away from that and diversify too much you’ll end up with a diluted version of what you set out to achieve. Finally, I’d say to keep reinvesting in your business. It’s a competitive market and you can’t afford to tread water.
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Retailer spotlight:
LEEDS INDIE SUPPORTS LOCAL TALENT Accent Clothing held an in-store event last month featuring Bradford-born house DJ Maya K. As part of the bank holiday celebrations, Maya K performed a set of electronic music live in-store. Accent Clothing has supported numerous local talents over the years, providing artists with a platform to showcase their work. In doing this, Accent celebrates all Leeds has to offer by promoting the expanse and diversity of the city’s creative scene. Previous talent supported by Accent includes indie pop band The Marsicans and soul singer Bianca Gerald.
HASLEMERE BOUTIQUE CELEBRATES MILESTONE Surrey boutique Anya celebrated 10 years in business last month. The store, based in Haslemere, marked the occasion by offering 20 per cent discount across all stock for a week in order to give something back to its loyal customers. Since opening its doors in 2007, Anya has grown to stock a healthy mix of new and established labels. Visitors to the boutique can browse brands including Heidi Klein, Hale Bob, Soft Joie, Sundry and Goat in-store.
Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry
HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE , LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEB SITE , ORGANISED AN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT REBECCA . JACKSON@RAS-PUBLISHING.COM.
Web watch:
WWW.PSYCHE.CO.UK
Now covering men’s, women’s and children’s clothing and a wealth of product categories, Psyche offers over 200 established brands and emerging designers including the likes of Moncler, Dries Van Noten, Paul Smith, Aquascutum and Armani. In its 35-year existence the store has gained many industry accolades, scooping FHM magazine’s Retailer of the Year, GQ Magazine’s Best Menswear Shop and runner up to Harrods in Department Store of the Year. While the 35,000 sq ft boutique is a staple in Middlesbrough and further afield, the website is also thriving. Great aesthetics and shopping experience all come as standard, with sections such as the ‘Psyche-ology’ blog further setting it apart from the rest of the pack.
SARAH SIMONDS Director of Artichoke, Swaffham, Norfolk; Ely, Cambridgeshire and pop-up store What is your current bestseller in-store? Our bestseller as always is our bengaline trouser. We buy a brand called Stehmann directly from Germany that is not well known in the UK. We do this for two reasons: the first is quality, they are simply a far better trouser and sold at the same price point as the more well-known brand. Secondly, exclusivity – we always like to have an edge over independents that we compete with as well as the high street. A new label for us is White Label, again a German brand, which is walking out of our stores. We have bought them to replace Spanish jackets that we have stocked since they launched in the UK and they have oversold in East Anglia. White Label are at the moment exclusive to us and have some fabulous prints and styles at a great price point. How have you found trading over the last month? Mixed. We have been very busy in two of our shops, and the third one has been quieter. What have you been doing to drive traffic in-store? We had our spring launch fashion show at Ely and then again in Swaffham. The pop-up drives traffic year round, but during its busy periods there is little time to do anything else to promote the bricks and mortar stores. What’s on your agenda for the coming month? Work, work and more work. If it follows the past couple of summers, the high street goes to sale in summer, and we’ll have to make the most of the pre-sale period. There will then be a lull, but as we tend to sell in season we will be busy again at the end of July and throughout August when everyone else is trying to sell winter clothes.
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Retail therapy: Share your retailing bugbears
RUNWAY PRESENTATION SHOWCASES NEW TALENT Earlier this month Middlesex University fashion students presented designs to industry and media guests during a runway show. The drinks reception and show took place at the Vinyl Factory in Soho, London, and showcased work by the young designers. Participating students had been shortlisted by an industry panel of judges including fashion designers Keko Hainswheeler, Louise Gray and Per Götesson and fashion editors Kim Howells (Hunger Magazine) and Patrick Clarke (Schön Magazine).
TRINA BODMAN Owner of Trina’s Ladieswear, Aberdare, Rhondda Cynon Taf “I recently asked for my business to be revalued for business rates. The valuation office came and adjusted it and notified the council. Two weeks later, they visited the shop again, and I was told that the last valuation was incorrect, because of my tenants sharing landings and stairs etc, and it was again adjusted and the council were informed. I now find instead of counting my premises as one unit, it is now divided into seven; this has caused me to receive numerous paperwork for both the adjustments. I was informed before Christmas that I was £36,000 in credit, then I was told it was an error. More recently the letter said I owed them £8,000 then was told this is an error. Never again will I ask for advice from the council!”
NOTTINGHAM BOUTIQUE OPENS NEW STORE Penny Britton, owner of womenswear indie Boutique 11 in Nottingham, has opened a new store in Caythorpe, Lincolnshire. No71 Boutique, which offers brands such as Fly London and Smashed Lemon, opened last month and is described by Britton as a ‘small, personal and fun place to shop’. “There is still a huge opportunity for the independent retailer,” says Britton. “Consumers are looking for something unique, while enjoying visiting a small, independent boutique that offers personal service.”
Q&A:
Have you established a buying strategy for s/s 18?
MHAIRI MCDERMOTT
LINDA FULLWOOD
TANYA HARDY
Rose Horsfield
Company Director at M Boutique, Dundee
Owner of Fullwoods, Harpenden, Hertfordshire
Owner of Orchid Boutique, Louth, Lincolnshire
Owner of Pookie Boutique, Silkstone, Barnsley and Harrogate, North Yorkshire
“We’re looking for smaller niche brands where we can pick and choose the pieces that we love. And we’re also looking to continue work with larger brands that offer good B2B sites and allow us to top up throughout the season.”
“Going into a/w and s/s next year we are only going to forward order our best brands and keep it tight so that we have bigger budget in-season set aside for short order stock.”
“I am going to source new and exciting collections to introduce into the shop, to create interest and offer some diversity. This is a continuation of what we already offer our customers and seems to work well.”
“I am always looking at budget, brands, buying strategy, changes and adapting to the customers’ needs. However, I want to dedicate more time to individual personalised marketing – an area I intend to explore further, which will assist further in buying decisions.”
wwb-online.co
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E-tail Clinic
Web chat:
Essential e-commerce advice
MARTHA FRASER Owner of Martha V, Newmarket, Suffolk www.marthav.co.uk
The expert view: Why in-store mobile mistrust can affect online sales
When did you launch your website and is it transactional? We launched marthav.co.uk in 2011. It is not a transactional website.
Just as today’s shoppers no longer differentiate between channels, nor should retailers. This includes in-store staff who should look to utilise all available platforms to deliver great customer experiences. Nearly a third (32 per cent) of all customer facing workers claim they use their connected devices to answer customers’ questions, yet despite this increasing use of mobile devices, our recent research found that 40 per cent of retail staff think that trust around mobile device use at work is an issue. If this distrust continues, retailers run the risk of making channels run in silos, creating a disconnect for shoppers and making the jobs of sales staff harder. As omnichannel retailing comes to the fore, businesses need to optimise all channels and embrace shoppers’ non-linear paths to purchase. For example, online shoppers will often visit the physical store to ‘showroom’ – trying on products or simply seeing them in reality – before looking to continue their journey online.
“ NOW MORE THAN EVER BEFORE, STORE STAFF
NEED TO BE EQUIPPED WITH TECHNOLOGY THAT
CAN HELP ANSWER CUSTOMER QUERIES AND, AS A DIRECT RESULT, DRIVE ONLINE CONVERSIONS.”
As a result, businesses need to be at hand to assist in consumers’ complex shopping journeys. This means that retailers need to, where possible, bridge the gap between online and offline experiences, providing customers with a seamless view of the brand across all platforms. In-store shoppers often expect the endless aisle capabilities of online when in-store and may want to order items available online to be delivered to a location of their choice. This kind of activity shows that store staff, now more than ever before, need to be equipped with technology that can help answer customer queries and, as a direct result, drive online conversions. By placing trust in store staff to professionally utilise mobile devices in-store, to help customers along their shopping journey, retailers will reap the rewards online as shoppers move down the sales funnel and make purchases following positive in-store experiences. Gary Topiol is the managing director EMEA of Nudge Rewards and can be contacted via www.nudgerewards.com.
What’s the main purpose of your website? The purpose of our website is to give people a flavour of what we do and essentially encourage them to visit the shop. Nowadays consumers like to have sufficient information about somewhere before they visit and the website is usually the first port of call. Plus, simply having a website makes our business more credible. Do you showcase the same brands online as you do in-store? Currently we stock over 30 labels which are all listed in our Brand Gallery section of the website. Here, we provide as many images as possible from the current season to show what each label has to offer. Are you planning to develop an e-commerce arm of your business? No. We are an independent business and we pride ourselves on giving exceptional customer service and honest advice, which we can only give in-store. What are your plans for the site and how would you like it to develop? In order to improve our website, we would like to expand on the Brand Gallery to display a larger selection of images for every label. Also, more links to our social media accounts such as Twitter and Facebook could be very beneficial as use of these platforms are rapidly on the rise. Increased engagement on social media will then turn to increased visits to the shop.
13.9%
Online retail sales growth in April *Source: IMRG
81%
THE RATE OF SENDERS WHO TRACK THEIR PARCEL AT LEAST ONCE DURING DELIVERY. SOURCE: COLLECT +
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The Last Word with... Mikael Söderlindh – founder of Happy Socks, chairman of Stutterheim, founder of The Cords & Co British Palamon recently acquired a majority stake in Happy Socks. What does that mean for the brand’s future? The last two years we successfully accelerated the growth and development of Happy Socks beyond expectations. We have built a super team and transformed the company into a real engine by strengthening our global presence and how we work. I am really proud of what we have accomplished together with Scope and our distribution partners around the world. And how it has made it possible for Happy Socks, and for me and Viktor personally, to take this next step. We have achieved the best of both worlds – we have a strong new partner and remain significant owners in a great business that we have built and will continue to build for years to come. You are expanding globally, including a major push in China and the US this year. How important is the UK market for you? The UK is one of our key markets, and it is definitely a growing territory. We’re always looking for suitable concept-store locations. We’re also teaming up with The Beatles on a limited edition Yellow Submarine sock collection this fall. Each pair commemorates the iconic animated film that Viktor’s dad was actually part of creating back in 1968. What made you and Viktor Tell set up Happy Socks? Happy Socks started in the spring of 2008 when Viktor and I wanted to create a design piece and do something happier with our lives. Socks seemed to be a forgotten item and we couldn’t find the styles that we wanted to wear. We decided to become the playful pioneer of colourful socks. How would you describe the USP of Happy Socks? We believe in creativity, individuality, self-expression and having fun. We want to bring unexpected colour and design to an everyday essential, and create a pair of high-quality socks and underwear for every occasion, mindset and style. Did you anticipate that it would grow into an internationally recognised label? We quite quickly noticed that we filled a sought-after gap in the market, and that the concept had global potential. Together with our international network of strong distributors, and with the unique sock designs, we started to attract icons such as Snoop Dogg, David LaChapelle and Pharrell Williams’ Billionaire Boys Club, all reaching out and wanting to collaborate with us.
You are also launching your first ever diffusion line, Hysteria, a women’s only line, this autumn. What’s it all about? We wanted to create a unique new line that seeks to transform the way we think about socks, designed by women for women. We believe that socks have so much more potential, as a fashion accessory and a means of self-expression. For too long contemporary womenswear has overlooked the fashion sock category, offering limited options and inspiration. Hysteria seeks to change that, providing women with a powerful accessory that augments and elevates their personal style.
What is your personal style? It depends on the occasion; I try to take the custom where I am. What are the three things on your bucket list? To achieve a great physical and mental challenge. Be the best father possible. See an ice bear. Tell us something people don’t know about you. I have a big passion for my daily exercise, a long distance run that I do daily. This is my routine where I sort out my day-to-day schedule and process my to-do-list. I have so much energy, and I channel this when running. Without the run my day would be a blur. What is the best piece of business advice you have ever been given? Work hard as nothing comes for free, and there are no free meals: said to me by my father.
UK Customer Services T: 0141 204 0699 E: fashion@premierfashions.co.uk franklyman.com