MWB 241 by MichaelPodger

ISSUE 241 | JULY 2017 | £6.95 MWB-ONLINE.CO

THE NEW SEASON HAS ARRIVED: MWB PRESENTS YOUR MUST-READ GUIDE TO S/S 18 TREND HUNTING AT LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S HIGH SCHOOL DROP OUT: OUR SEASONAL SHOOT

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SKOPES, SKOPES, NEW SKOPES NEW SKOPES HOUSE,HOUSE, 2 CROSS 2 CROSS GREENGREEN GARTH,GARTH, CROSSCROSS GREENGREEN INDUSTRIAL INDUSTRIAL ESTATE,ESTATE, LEEDS, LEEDS, LS9 0SFLS9 0SF

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | CONTENTS | 05

F E A T U R E S 10

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

“The future is full of opportunities”

News from the latest Bira High Street Conference

Social Media: How to stop misuse of your brand

Expert advice on essential industry issues

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season stock

Tan lines

The edit

Accessories and add-ons to consider in-store

Best in show

Collection highlights from London Fashion Week Men’s

London street style

Outfit inspiration from the capital

The word on Jacket Required

MWB catches up with event director Alice Elliott and highlights the key brands

to check out for s/s 18

The buyer’s guide

The news and trends for the new season

Let the moose loose

Canadian outerwear label Moose Knuckles on its European expansion

Raising the bar

The latest development from Lee Cooper, The Cooper Collection

Focus on Pitti

Our finds from Florence

Sartorial snapshot

The best dressed at Pitti Uomo

High school dropout

Key s/s 18 product in young, contemporary menswear

R E G U L A R S 7 8 14

Comment News Interview

James Holder

72 75 78

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Mikael Söderlindh

Front cover:

Brixton 0117 980 3300 sales@outofstep.ltd.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | COMMENT | 07

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@ite-exhibitions.co.uk —

MWB is published 9 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2017 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

So, another season is in full swing, and having spoken to many brands and retailers recently, I was relieved that the overall mood has been upbeat, with a very British ‘Keep calm and carry on’ attitude, despite the much-anticipated price hikes expected with impending Brexit. — It was also refreshing to read that, according to a recent survey by UK alternative finance provider Liberis, 2017 is the year of small business, with eight out of 10 consumers planning to use independent businesses over larger stores. The report was commissioned to discover the attitudes of over 200 UK consumers towards small businesses, and while this only provides a snapshot, the findings are certainly encouraging. The data revealed that 77 per cent of those surveyed pledged to shop at or use small businesses more than they did in 2016, with 41 per cent of consumers already shopping at small businesses. The findings further revealed that even though 65 per cent were aware that using a smaller provider can be more expensive, the benefits of doing so, such as boosting the local economy and supporting their community, outweighed the increased costs. Clothing, jewellery, books and gift retailers were the second most utilised businesses, following grocers and convenience stores, with 45 of respondents citing convenience as the main reason for shopping local. And while the findings of this report are certainly positive, there is still so much that could be done to support our local high street. Over on p17, we bring you our findings from the annual Bira High Street Conference, where a number of key industry personalities discussed the current challenges facing the independent retail landscape. An interesting read for sure. This issue also presents your must-read guide to the s/s 18 buying season, from the news and developments from the brands, to the trends to consider for next summer. Whether you’re looking to update your store’s offer with something new, or you want to see what your bestselling brands are offering this season, this issue is your essential handbook. I’m looking forward to seeing many more of you over the next couple of weeks as our next trip takes us to Jacket Required at the end of the month. Have a great buying season and make sure you check out our new website mwb-online.co for daily updates from the menswear industry. Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

NEW TEAM AT HUNTER DRIVES GROWTH PLANS

PROPORTION OF ONLINE RETAIL ORDERS GOING TO EU AT HIGHEST RATE Online retail delivery order volumes were up 13.9 per cent year-on-year in May, according to the latest data from the IMRG MetaPack UK Delivery Index. The analysis reveals that the average order value (AOV) hit its highest rate for May since the Index launched in 2011. This is consistent with rises seen in the e-retail index, where the average basket value was up +18 per cent in May compared with the same month last year. The AOV for both domestic orders and those being fulfilled to customers in the EU has been gradually increasing over the past six months, pushing the overall AOV up, while those going to non-EU destinations has decreased slightly over the past few months. Since the Brexit vote in June last year, the value of sterling has fallen against other currencies. While the major currencies have all gained against the pound, the euro has maintained its strengthened position more consistently than others over recent months. The study suggests that this is likely to be a factor influencing a rise in the proportion of orders going to EU destinations, which at 61.8 per cent is the highest share since the group began tracking this in August 2013. Andrew Starkey, Head of e-Logistics, IMRG says: “One of the main cliches about Brexit is that it brings uncertainty. While that may be true from a technical and legal perspective, the impact of Brexit so far on retail has been very clear – as the pound tumbled following the vote and has remained at that lower level since. A record high for May average order values may sound like good news for retailers on the surface, but it could be masking a wider issue around profit margins. Shoppers from EU markets are likely being attracted to UK retailers because their currency is strong, relatively speaking, which means they are actually getting the equivalent of a discount on products purchased from UK sites.” Chris Hoskin, Head of Marketing, MetaPack, says: “14 per cent order volume growth month-on-month and the highest average order value in May since 2011; there’s much to cheer in e-commerce. However, the continued devaluing of the pound against the euro means that the volume of orders going to EU destinations continues to increase, necessitating a focus on optimised and controlled shipping costs. A potential trend towards lower order volume going to non-EU destinations will also be a concern for business with large non-EU customer bases.” —

Hunter has appointed a number of new roles in a bid to drive forward with its global expansion. Tracy Solomons has joined the brand in a newly created position, Customer Engagement Director; a key strategic role to increase growth and optimise the customer’s brand experience. Solomons joins from Uniqlo where she spent seven years, most recently as Director of Customer Experience. At Hunter she will oversee omnichannel customer engagement, with responsibility for e-commerce, retail, merchandising and digital marketing. Sallie Scripter, meanwhile has recently joined Hunter as EVP, Americas. Joining from her own consultancy providing strategic brand development in retail, e-commerce and wholesale distribution, Scripter previously spent over 10 years at LVMH, working as senior vice president for both retail development, and RTW at Marc Jacobs International. —

£50,000 FUNDING TO SUPPORT SMES Consulting service Global Fashion Management has made available a £50,000 fund to subsidise initiatives to help small and medium fashion SMEs to incorporate robust management practices. This programme is funded and carried out in conjunction with CEO Mentoring (CEOM), a global player in mentoring services, which provides mentors and subject matter experts to SME’s through its global network. The objective of the funding programme is to help businesses thrive within a challenging economy and move to the next level. The funding covers an initial session with CEOM, free of charge, to gauge the current position of the fashion SME and help it define a programme going forward that may include incorporating a CEON mentor in confidence to the CEO, or a subject matter expert in an area of weakness, or a combination of both. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | NEWS | 09

NEWS IN BRIEF

SEBAGO UNVEILS ARMOR LUX COLLABORATION

WOOLRICH CONTINUES RETAIL GROWTH

Heritage footwear label Sebago has launched an exclusive capsule collection with French brand Armor Lux, creating a range that pays homage to their shared heritage and epitomises the timeless appeal of a classic nautical look. Famed for its signature boating shoes, the s/s 18 collection sees Sebago present four men’s and womenswear hand sewn docksides, with matching Armor Lux Breton stripe tees. Founded in 1946 in New England and 1938 in Brittany respectively, the two brands combine a nautical birthplace with a strong focus on craftsmanship. Armor Lux has built its longstanding reputation on the quality of its products, founding a service in 1971 to control the manufacturing on its production of knitted fabric and guarantee a high level of quality. —

Woolrich International has seen a strong performance across all channels and all markets, closing its 2016 books with a 9 per cent rise in turnover to 190m dollars. The company has issued a positive outlook for 2017, set to be achieved by further expansion of its retail network to 33 singlebrand stores. EMEA was up 18 per cent, and APAC gained 21 per cent. In North America, a plan to reposition the brand and launch the Woolrich John Rich & Bros line in qualified wholesale and e-commerce channels is underway. The direct to consumer route will be further enhanced through both expansion in bricks and mortar and e-commerce channels, including the opening of nine new stores in addition to the current 24. New Woolrich stores will be opened by the end of the year in major cities, including Toronto, Düsseldorf and the first flagship store in Milan. —

MANUFACTURERS TRADE SHOW 2017 COMES TO LONDON

STRONG BRAND MOMENTUM AT JOULES

The Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE), based at the London College of Fashion – UAL, will host the first Manufacturers Trade Show in East London on 11 July. The one-day event will showcase over 20 exhibitors and aims to introduce fashion enterprises to manufacturers who can produce smaller scale quantities. The Manufacturers Trade Show 2017 is a part of CFE’s Fashion Technology Emerging Futures (FTEF) project, with the vision to support the new ecosystem emerging in London, recognising the convergence of fashion and technology SMEs. This will be the first show, with further ones planned for twice-yearly. Confirmed exhibitors include Fashion Enter, Zedonk, Offset Warehouse, Source Studio, Plus Samples Ltd and Making for Change. —

Latest financial results of British lifestyle brand Joules covering the 52-week period to 28 May 2017 report group revenues increased by 19.6 per cent year on year to £157m, as the Group’s strong performance in the first half of FY17 and the Christmas trading period continued during the second half. This strong growth is a reflection of the brand’s expansion in the UK and international markets, Joules’ growing customer base, and the positive customer responses to both new and core ranges across product categories. Retail revenue increased by approximately 19.4 per cent on the prior year, driven by strong growth in the e-commerce channel as well as continued increases across the group’s UK and ROI store estate, where Joules opened 11 net new stores in the period. —

SIMON CARTER DRESSES HOST AND CONTESTANTS FOR RETURN OF THE CRYSTAL MAZE A brand new series of The Crystal Maze returned to Channel 4 last month, hosted by Richard Ayoade, and includes a set of celebrity specials for Stand Up to Cancer. British menswear designer Simon Carter has created the contestant costumes and host outfit for the entire series, spanning 20 episodes. The design challenge was to create costumes that combines practicality and style to allow the contestants the freedom of movement needed for the show. For the Maze Master, viewers will see a distinctive look to provides a modern edge to classic design, including brightly coloured cord suits, floral shirts and knitted ties. For the Crystal Maze charity specials, the designer has created a dinner suit in cord, crafted in midnight blue. Designs for both female and male contestants are inspired by the famed and distinctive Le Mans racing jumpsuits. — ELLIS RUGBY EXPANDS INTO JAPANESE MARKET Ellis Rugby, the rugby heritage fashion brand, has joined forces with Rakuten Ichiba - the largest online sales channel in Japan, which boasts a quarter of the nation’s online transactions through its marketplace. “We've been looking for a partner in Japan for some time and working with Trade Japan and Rakuten Ichiba provides the business with the perfect solution”, says Kevin Ellis, founder of Ellis Rugby. “We see the Japanese market as a great opportunity to grow the brand internationally - the 2019 Rugby World Cup is being staged in Japan, played in 12 venues throughout the country, including Sapporo, Yokohama and Tokyo and I'm certain the tournament will be a huge success. It provides us with great window of opportunity to establish the brand and we are developing our online presence during the remainder of this year and 2018, prior to the tournament.” — CRUYFF APPOINTS UK68 AGENCIES TO HANDLE UK SALES The parent company to Cruyff, Premium Inc, has appointed UK68 Agencies to manage sales of the footwear label throughout the UK and Ireland. Cruyff, the brand influenced by one of the world’s most renowned football icons Johan Cruyff, will be sold through UK68 Agencies’ three showrooms in London, Manchester and Dublin. Neil Round, owner of UK68 Agencies, adds: “It is an honour to be associated with a brand that represents a legacy untouched in the sporting world and which has an innovative mind set to develop new product, all the while retaining the influence of one of the few actual sporting icons.” UK68 Agencies sales manager Oliver Devenney will head up the Cruyff brand and can be contacted via email at ollie.uk68agencies@gmail.com or by telephone on 07805 549903. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | ADVICE | 10

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: ALL PACKAGED UP: DELIVERING ENHANCED ONLINE FULFILMENT EXPERIENCES

FRANK LOCHBAUM IS A MANAGING PARTNER AT KPS AND CAN BE CONTACTED VIA WWW.KPS.COM/EN

With online fashion spend set to reach £19bn in the UK by 2019, fulfilment of online orders – either direct to the consumer or for collection in-store – remains a vital component in meeting the needs of connected consumers. And it seems the option for free delivery continues to be a key consideration in European omnichannel shoppers’ buying decisions. Original research from our latest report, From First Look To Last Mile… And Back Again, showed that over half (57 per cent) of European consumers consider free fulfilment a key factor in their buying decision, directly impacting whether they choose to buy from a certain retailer or look for the same product elsewhere. Despite many retailers revisiting their click and collect strategies, with some implementing charges or introducing minimum spend thresholds for consumers to qualify for free delivery on online orders into store, free fulfilment options are still a key requirement for shoppers. Indeed, just over a quarter (27 per cent) would abandon a purchase if free click and collect wasn’t available and 37 per cent would order the same product from a competitor who did offer free fulfilment of online orders into store. Similarly, in a bid not to be charged for click and collect orders, a third (31 per cent) of shoppers admit to ordering additional items into their online baskets in order to reach a minimum spend threshold to qualify for free delivery, with the intention of returning the additional items to get a refund as soon as they pick up their order in-store. Retailers have never known more about the customer journey; how they research purchases; how they move between online and offline channels; their preferred delivery methods and so on. Yet, ironically, and in spite of all this information, it has never been harder for retail businesses to retain customers as their demands around certain elements of the buying journey, including fulfilment, shift. The data-driven nature of modern retail has meant many retail organisations have become obsessed with drilling down into the detail of consumer interactions, rather than looking at the bigger picture of their business ecosystem and the processes within it. Rather than spending time and resources seeking incremental gains, retailers should focus their efforts on pursuing end-to-end agility to meet diverse shoppers’ needs. —

WEB WATCH

WWW.LE21EME.COM Let’s get one straight, Le 21eme (pronounced Luh Van-Tay-Un-Eee-Em) is not a street style blog. Designed to be a photojournalistic view into the daily world of fashion from cities and fashion weeks around the world, the website was created by photographer Adam Katz Sinding. And with fashion month now in full swing, Sinding takes away the hard work of capturing trends from the shows, while you make headway with your buying this season. —

NEWS

FARFETCH AND CONDÉ NAST UNVEIL CONTENT AND COMMERCE PARTNERSHIP Farfetch, the leading global platform for the fashion industry, and content provider Condé Nast, have announced a strategic partnership to connect Condé Nast’s global editorial portfolio with Farfetch’s e-commerce, technology and logistic platform. The global partnership aims to create a seamless luxury shopping journey, commercialising Condé Nast’s online and social media content by linking it to the world’s leading brands and boutiques in real time. As part of the partnership, Style.com will discontinue operations, and effectively immediately will redirect to Farfetch.com. The partnership will see Farfetch product integration into Condé Nast’s content, shopping guides created by Condé Nast publications, highlighting products from Farfetch, and distribution of shoppable content across the company’s digital and social platforms. “We have long felt that inspirational content is a natural part of any luxury shopping experience,” says Jose Neves, founder and CEO of Farfetch. “In the same way as we empower the fashion industry and connect consumers with the world’s best brands and boutiques, we want to connect them with outstanding content. “This global partnership with Condé Nast will significantly augment the retail experience for our customers, and we see it as a natural step in Farfetch’s approach to commerce and our strategic vision to connect those who create fashion, curate fashion and develop fashion content. Farfetch’s DNA is about partnering with those who are the best in their fields, and Conde Nast is one of the world’s best content providers,” he adds. Anna Wintour, artistic director, Condé Nast, comments; “I’ve always believed that what sets Condé Nast apart is our voice and our vision. Partnering with Farfetch only enhances that and brings a new dimension to all that we offer the world.” —

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 12

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

ADVICE MAKING THE MOST OF THE MOBILE MARKETPLACE BEN MORGAN is head of partnerships at Pricesearcher.com

NEW INDEPENDENT MENSWEAR RETAILER VERB OPENS ITS DOORS Verb, a new independent fashion retailer, has opened its doors at the Flemingate shopping destination in Beverley, East Yorkshire. The store takes a 1,550 sq ft space adjacent to fellow independent retailer and jeweller Guest and Philips. Verb founder Lee Wardell has 35 years of retail experience, previously managing the popular and long-established Leonard Silver Menswear in Beverley. The new store features brands such as Florentino, Gibson London, Pearly King, Brooks Taverner, Mac Jeans, Alberto Jeans, Goodwin Smith Shoes, as well as an expanding range of womenswear. The interior of Verb features leather Chesterfield seating, striking industrial lighting fixtures and a display centrepiece showcasing some of the top brands available. “Supporting our great range of clothing is our commitment to provide outstanding customer service,” says Wardell. “Our highly trained staff will offer expert guidance and advice to customers who are looking for excellent product knowledge, high-end service and an independent shopping experience.” — NEWS IN BRIEF REMUS UOMO OPENS NEW FLAGSHIP STORE CONCEPT Menswear label Remus Uomo has opened a brand new flagship store in Belfast as part of a significant programme of ongoing investment. The new store, located on the lower ground floor of the city’s Victoria Square, features the brand’s new retail concept which will form the basis of future Remus Uomo flagship stores. The brand has been a permanent resident of Victoria Square for almost 10 years, and through this new flagship opening has committed to a further decade. The refit encompasses a custom designed lighting and sound system and bespoke terrazzo flooring with furniture created and installed by Terry Design. —

FOOTWEAR BRANDS JOIN WESTGATE OXFORD LINE-UP Iconic footwear brands Timberland, Vans and Loake have all joined the roster of stores opening at the Westgate shopping centre in Oxford. The centre is set to span 800,000 sq ft, with store adjacencies including John Lewis, Hobbs and Oliver Bonas. The official opening will take place in October this year, with food and leisure zones, as well as mini-golf, all being developed within the centre. —

Optimising an e-commerce site for smartphones and tablets can be challenging for any professional business, but especially so for fashion retailers. The typical fashion store has an array of endless options in different styles, colours and sizes, and fitting these into a mobile-friendly site can be difficult. A recent analysis from product search engine Pricesearcher.com showed that between March and April 2017, a staggering 78.75 per cent of consumers were shopping on smartphones and tablets, compared to just 21.25 per cent using desktops. This statistic goes to show just how crucial it is to perfect your mobile-friendly fashion store. Without addressing the key areas such as site design, functionality, and structure, you could be inadvertently turning customers away from your business. One of the most important aspects to remember when creating a mobile version of your site is to keep it simple. Given the limited amount of space available on a screen, mobile or tablet platforms are not suitable for scrolling around in search of information. Detailed content and annoying distractions such as pop-up windows should be left out. Whilst the site’s theme or design should still be appealing, the importance of functionality should be ranked above aesthetic design. People using your site on their mobiles will be looking for easy access whilst on the go. Search bars, product filters and quick links to information such as nearby stores can be a huge time-saver for users. One final key point that can be easily overlooked is the fact that most devices are now touchscreen with no or few buttons. Rather than using a mouse at a desk, customers must rely on the site being easy to touch and scroll their way through using their fingers. You should thoroughly check and test your site, and correct any mistakes before it goes live. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 13

SHOPPED: JONNY GEORGE How has business been this season? Trade has generally been tough. It’s been very disappointing, as we had a great a/w 16 and follow up winter Sale during January and February. — Have you had any particular issues to deal with? I think public uncertainty with things like a snap election and Brexit don't help. But, to be honest, the spring/summer season has never been the easiest. It’s a long season with smaller priced items, so you are more vulnerable if footfall drops. — JONNY GEORGE, BUYER, ELEMENTS, What’s been performing well? NORWICH Farah has again been a good performer for us. Its sharp, clean look appeals to a lot of our customer base. We stock many heritage sports brands, like Fila Vintage, and these have always done well for us for spring/summer. The Fila Blackline range, with its 90s inspired graphics, has been great. It’s drawn a lot of new customers into the store. — How confident are you for a/w 17? We always try to be confident. Our glass is always half full, not half empty. We've been lucky to have had some very strong autumn/winter seasons over the last few years, and we hope that continues. We have a few new brands coming in. Sergio Tacchini is a good one that we’re adding to our sports heritage side. We've had a lot of customers asking for it. We also have Trojan coming in for too, and that will sit with Gabicci Vintage and Gibson London. We have a strong following with the local old Mod and Ska crews here, so that's sure to do well.

IN FOCUS: THACKERAYS 251-255 WELLINGBOROUGH ROAD, NORTHAMPTON, NN1 4EH

ESTABLISHED: 1972 BRANDS: HUGO BOSS, PAUL SMITH, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, ARMANI JEANS, RALPH LAUREN, JACOB COHEN, STONE ISLAND, CP COMPANY, CANADA GOOSE, BELSTAFF, NUDIE, Y-3, FILLING PIECES, BARBOUR AND OLIVER SWEENEY.

LACOSTE CELEBRATES NEW STORE OPENING WITH BRAND EXHIBITION Lacoste, the French lifestyle brand known for its crocodile logo, has opened a new premium store concept in Westfield London as part of its strategy to reflect a stronger brand identity. The concept will first appear in the UK, a market where it has seen consistent growth over the last five years and one which it sees as its major influencer market to the rest of the world, before a global roll-out through 2017. Occupying 140 sq m of retail space, the new store will benefit from a more streamlined design and an architectural aesthetic. Graphic lines and top green panels throughout the interior evoke the feeling of a tennis court. To celebrate the launch, the brand will host the exhibition, L for Legend, L for Lacoste, celebrating its heritage since its founding in 1933 by tennis legend Rene Lacoste. Highlighting milestones in the brand's history, the exhibition will feature clothing, objects, photography and documents to bring Lacoste's history to life. — NEWS IN BRIEF

Founded in 1972 by Brian and Eileen Richards, Thackerays has been offering premium men’s and ladieswear for the past 45 years and today is run by the Richards' son Paul. Thackerays' flagship store is a purpose-built building that houses designer men’s and ladieswear across two floors. Recently refurbished, the store interior offers a luxe, contemporary atmosphere, designed to welcome customers of all ages. The Thackerays team pride themselves on their extensive brand knowledge and developing strong customer relationships. Loyal customers have built the shop’s reputation within the town as being the go-to destination for those who are both brand and style conscious. Since investing in its website, Thackerays has also now opened its doors to a much larger audience. Its current bestselling contemporary brand is Stone Island, alongside Hugo Boss, Vivienne Westwood and Armani Jeans. Ben Green has been the menswear buyer for Thackerays for over 15 years, and he’s continuously on the lookout for new brands and designers. New in to the store mix are Nudie and Aquascutum. “Also Mallet footwear, which has received an astounding response from our customers after its first weekend on the shop floor,” says Green. —

NEW LOOK REVENUES DECLINE Revenues at the New Look Group for the year ending 25 March 2017 decreased 2.4 per cent to £1.45bn against £1.49bn last year. “The retail environment is now more competitive than ever,” says Anders Kristiansen, chief executive officer. “We have seen a growing shift in customer mindset during the year to a ‘buy now, wear now’ mentality, which challenges us to be even faster in identifying and responding to trends, buying with more conviction and becoming ever more agile.” —

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | INTERVIEW | 14

INTERVIEW

JAMES HOLDER Now worth a staggering £1.255bn, SuperGroup Plc, the company behind the hugely successful Superdry brand, likes to stay ahead of the game. For that reason, and to tap in to what it sees as a gap in the market, it’s launching Superdry Sport as a brand in its own right for a/w 17. James Holder is the creative force heading up SuperDesign Lab to drive this new business. Tom Bottomley caught up with him to find out more. — Tom Bottomley: What’s new within the company? James Holder: We’ve set up what we’ve called the SuperDesignLab, a pure innovation centre. Of course, Superdry is still the main business and is an incredibly successful business model which is doing outstanding figures, but it’s a big machine that needs time to operate. If you’ve got 6,000 different products coming out each year, and you’ve got to make 50 samples of each, our sampling runs are bigger than some brands’ production runs. To facilitate that, you need to have a very large, efficient machine, which has all the necessary processes involved. — TB: Is there a downside to that? JH: There is no downside, only the fact that model needs to be run in a classic design, sampling and sales cycle, like any global brand working within the traditional wholesale model. What we’re now doing with the SuperDesignLab is fast and innovative and, because we don’t have to make so many samples, we can do the really freaky stuff that may be too extreme for mainline. The mainline has to satisfy the global demand for strong commercial product and must meet the needs of the international customers. But we can really push the boundaries with this, very similar to how we did when we first started Superdry, when our designs were considered to be pioneering and

SUPERDRY HEAD OF SUPERDESIGN LAB AND CO-FOUNDER

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | INTERVIEW | 15

unique. We had some pretty defining products at the start, like the windcheater, of which we have sold millions of units – and it shows no sign of stopping. And the Brad leather jacket with its double collar and multiple zips was another winner that pioneered a new language in leather jackets at the time. With the SuperDesignLab we can do more groundbreaking product, that gives a vision of a future Superdry. That’s important for longevity of the brand. — TB: What has the reaction from buyers been like? JH: So far, the response to Superdry Sport has been unbelievable. We can be super extreme with the designs, especially with colours and branding. At a time when other labels are paring their branding back, the Superdry Sport line has allowed us to really go full-on with what Superdry is amazing at: colours, fabrics and insane levels of detailing. Graphics are splattered everywhere, but done in a tasteful way. It’s a unique sub-brand for which we have great expectations. — TB: Is Superdry Sport entirely new? JH: It was launched for s/s 16 as a capsule collection within the mainline women’s collection, which followed with a men’s capsule collection a season later, and that’s been satisfying our traditional wholesale partners. But the Superdry Sport that has come out of the SuperDesignLab is now sitting completely on its own, and is a combination of the fantastic mainline Superdry Sport products blended with the SuperDesignLab styles, so that we can offer a 360-degree product offering with a diversity that has not been seen before in this segment. There are 420 different products across apparel and footwear split equally between genders. Importantly, it will reach out to new customers, as well as existing fans of the Superdry brand, and price points remain in line with the main collection. You can definitely see the Superdry DNA running through it, but it’s a more extreme version of it. — TB: Is the intention to also have Superdry Sport standalone stores? JH: In our larger grade A Superdry stores in the UK, such as London’s Regent Street shop, Manchester, Liverpool and Cardiff, there will initially be Superdry Sport shop-in-shops from

this autumn/winter. You will walk in to a Superdry store and experience the usual feel, but then you will get to discover the high impact bright neon Sport section. Alongside that, we are also launching it as shop-in-shops with some UK retail partners, as well as across Europe, the Far East and the USA with more details to follow on that once each deal is finalised. There are plans to launch Superdry Sport standalone stores in the UK going forward and Julian Dunkerton, my fellow Superdry founding partner, will be selecting the perfect locations. Julian and I are working extremely closely together, now that the SuperDesignLab has been created and he has been freed up to concentrate on new retail, and new product. In a way, this process has reunited and reignited us, and made us more focused than ever on the brand and its long-term relevance and success. — TB: Who’s the competition for this new area? JH: It’s anyone from volume brands such as Nike and Adidas Originals, to more exclusive labels such as Sweaty Betty and Lululemon, but we’re so much more aggressively priced. We’re able to take absolutely banging classics from the Superdry portfolio, and give them the Sport design treatment. For example, there’s the Windsprinter, the Sports version of the windcheater which we think is going to be highly popular worldwide. There are technical elements in the line too, so there’s moisture wicking and anti-bacterial capabilities built in to certain fabrics. I’d say 50 per cent of the line has some sort of technical element to it, from the most extreme compression gear down to more classic gym wear. But we’re not stupid; we know we are going to sell a lot of hoodies and jackets, and a lot of footwear. It’s the perfect balance. What you’ve got, when you look at the established players in the sports market, they do sportswear, whereas fashion people do fashion clothing. We’re smashing the two together for a completely new and unique offering, while capturing the whole sportswear trend that has emerged so strongly. It’s fitness meets fashion. — TB: What’s the footwear like? JH: You could run a marathon in some of the trainers, but equally some of them are more suited for gym work and, of course, for the street.

It’s cooler than the competition, and evolving quicker than the competition. And it’s between 30-50 per cent cheaper than the competition on top of that, so very aggressively priced at between £45-£65. It enables us to take modern sports shapes and get the elements of our clothing in to the shoes. With Superdry, on products like plimsols and flipflops – easy grab items – we do absolutely fantastic business. With the new sports shoes, the quality is a good as the market leaders, because we’ve spent two years working on it and researching the best factories who can achieve class leading quality at accessible pricing. It’s the first time sports trainers have been a major part of our collection. There are 56 styles across men’s and women’s, evenly split across both. — TB: Who is Superdry Sport targeted at consumer-wise? JH: As the mainline collection has grown up, I think we may have lost a little bit of the youth market. But this will definitely hit that 18-25 yearold market big time, especially with the photography and marketing, and with the slightly more modern cuts that we are doing. On the other hand, with the slightly older age group, we know they are more serious about a product’s technical capabilities, so there’s plenty for them here too. They were already buying in to Superdry in the athleisure market, but this is upping the game substantially. — TB: What’s the appeal of the more technical side? JH: There’s a sub-brand within Superdry Sport collection, called Carbon, which is unbelievable. It’s £95 for a jacket which, for Superdry, seems quite a lot, but the competition for such a technical piece would be more like £250. So, we’re still taking that Superdry mentality of offering the best product on the planet – pound for pound by far. Everyone is getting fitter, and we’re now supplying the right kit for them. We’re very excited about it. We really saw a gap in the market, and now we’re out to get some of that market share. I’m ferociously passionate about sport but, of course, primarily Julian and I are rag traders who can instinctively sense an opportunity. If you’re an entrepreneur, and you see a big gap in the market, you attack it.

2 6 & 2 7 J U LY 2 0 1 7 MENSWEAR | WOMENSWEAR R E G I S T E R N O W AT J A C K E T - R E Q U I R E D . C O M

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“THE FUTURE IS FULL OF OPPORTUNITY” The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) recently held its annual High Street Conference, discussing the challenges of retailing and the impact technology has on the store landscape of the future. Isabella Griffiths reports from the day and sums up some of the highlights. —

In May the British Independent Retailers Association invited its members and key industry personalities to come together at Bristol’s Marriott Royal Hotel and discuss the challenges and opportunities SMEs are facing in an increasingly digitalised world. The jam-packed agenda saw high profile speakers, ranging from retailers and academics to thought leaders and business coaches, deliver an insightful series of speeches and workshops throughout the day. Professor Jonathan Reynolds, academic director of the Oxford Institute of Retail Management and deputy dean at the University of Oxford’s Saïd Business School, shared some recent findings and research on ‘Navigating the new retail landscape’. He identified key sources of future uncertainty which are influencing and changing the retail sector, namely Knowledge, Competition and Technology. “Firstly, customers know more, and with that, they want more,” he said. “Consumers today are very ‘now’-focused. They want seamless immediacy while also having a personalised experience. An increasing amount of people want to be participative shoppers,” he added. With regards to his second point, competition, he explained: “Everyone’s a retailer

now, from traditional vendors, through logistics businesses, through media and social media enterprises to payment providers,” he said, emphasising the impact of this growing competition on traditional retail stores. Exploring the third uncertainty, technology, he commented on the unstoppable growth of e-commerce and outlined the spread of virtual and augmented reality in retail, innovations in supply chains and logistics – for example the use of drones and driverless vehicles – as well as longer term developments such as DIY production of goods via 3D printers, which are becoming increasingly commonplace across a variety of industry sectors, including fashion. However, Reynolds retained a positive outlook and stressed that despite these uncertainties and innovations, there were still opportunities for independent retailers to be

seized. “You have to ask yourself as independent retailers – where are the opportunities? How can independents take advantage of this? The glass is half full, not half empty,” he said, explaining: “Sources of advantage for indies are firstly in the environment they operate in. It’s about personalisation, participation and authority – customers’ behavioural trends match independent retailers’ values. They are inherently more adaptable and flexible. Incremental product and process innovation can be introduced on a faster and cheaper scale, and resources can be allocated much quicker. Remember, indies are much more agile,” he encouraged. Summarising his talk, Reynolds concluded: “The physical role of retailing activity is becoming different in scale and characteristics, but look at it positively and not as a problem. The future is full >>> of opportunity.”

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Reynolds’ talk was followed by workshops held by digital experts from Google Digital Garage. Google’s Abbey Oladapo outlined how to gain a competitive advantage in the everchanging digital landscape, especially when it comes to marketing stores online. “Businesses who have a digital strategy grow twice as fast as those who don’t, so this is very important,” he said. “Optimising and managing your store’s presence on Google for searches is vital,” he began, explaining that the consumer purchase journey has significantly changed, and that from initial stimulus through to actual purchase and shopping experience lies an additional step – product research, whereby it’s vital for stores to have a positive presence and digital footprint with good feedback and reviews. “Research influences purchase decisions, so that’s why you as a retailer want to be easily found,” he continued, highlighting the need for mobile responsible sites. “Does your site shine across all devices? No one wastes their time anymore on sites that don’t work properly or are hard to navigate. If people have a bad experience, they won’t come back, it’s as simple as that,” he said. “Ninety-five per cent of consumers have searched for a local business last year; 87 per cent look for three to five star ratings before they will use a business and 76 per cent visit a business within a day of searching for one – so you need to have a presence. Local marketing and mobile are a match made in heaven,” he remarked. ‘The trends shaping the retail industry and what to do to keep up’ was the topic of speaker Mark Cooper, vice president EMEA at omnichannel specialist Vend. He began by saying:

“True omnichannel is about selling more, or upselling. Use a retail solution that lets you sell online and offline with one system.” Citing a recent study of 46,000 consumers he added: “Seventy-three per cent have used multiple channels throughout their shopping journey, while 23 per cent of omnichannel shoppers logged more shopping trips to the retailers’ stores and were more likely to recommend a brand. Your customers are no longer using one channel – and neither should you,” he urged, stressing that an automated stock management system that coordinates online and offline is crucial to maximise omnichannel retail. Other topics of the day included ‘Retail brand therapy’, held by retail branding expert Phil Dean, founder of brand communications agency Certain and ‘Managing key staffing issues’ by employment lawyer Sarah Simcott, as well as talks on the recent business rate reforms by expert Mark Radford, and Neil Mackay, coowner of Cambridge hardware indie Mackays, on combating store theft. The day concluded with a keynote address by Laura Tenison, founder of baby and maternity specialist JoJo Maman Bebe, who gave an inspirational insight into her journey from onewoman start-up to becoming one of the most prominent international retailers in its sector. Relaying how she built her now 80-strong retail chain with a £60m turnover from humble

beginnings in 1993 and sharing her strong beliefs in ethical retailing and corporate social responsibility, which form the cornerstones of the business, she said: “I really believe in independent retailers and in reviving the high street. We might have 80 stores, but we are still independently minded. We are a chain of independent stores, and at heart, I’m an independent retailer.” Tenison shared key points of advice on how to grow a business and the lessons she has learned over more than two decades of successful trading: “My mother instilled a sense of being frugal and a waste not, want not attitude in me, and this has always guided my business decisions. Also, believe in what you sell – it doesn’t matter what it is. You have to believe that you give true value for money,” she offered. Continuing, she said: “Omnichannel retail is here to stay, and it’s not easy to be just a pureplay bricks and mortar store anymore. You need to have an online profile. But don’t forget to connect with your customers. Do events in your store. You may not think it’s worth the effort, and maybe, from a monetary point of view it isn’t – but it means your face is out there and you’re engaging and meeting your customer. It’s vital for brand building,” she said. — For more information on the high street conference and membership of Bira, visit www.bira.co.uk.

“Businesses who have a digital strategy grow twice as fast as those who don’t, so this is very important.”

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SOCIAL MEDIA: HOW TO STOP MISUSE OF YOUR BRAND Social media has huge reach and can create catchy memes or other sharable content very quickly. However, with great power comes great responsibility, and it’s all too easy for other people to exploit your online fame. Fashion law expert Rosie Burbridge offers tips to ensure your brand’s viral posts don’t become a harmful outbreak. —

If social media is not properly monitored or controlled, it is possible to rapidly lose control of your brand. Similarly, there is a big risk of individuals intentionally or unintentionally hijacking your brand name on social media. For example, the owner of the @johnlewis account on Twitter (a Mr John Lewis based in the USA) regularly has to patiently explain to customers why he cannot help them with their enquiries. He is perfectly entitled to use that Twitter handle and, luckily for John Lewis the department store, Mr Lewis approaches the many people who mistake him with good grace and humour. At the other end of the scale, there are people who deliberately register variations of common account names, or in some cases get in there with the obvious account name first. They may sow further seeds of confusion by adding words like ‘official’ to their biography or in the ‘about us’ section. The sale of counterfeit goods on social media has become much more common in recent years. It is a particular problem on Facebook where many closed groups operate to sell counterfeit goods and hide infringing activities. What can you do? Without a registered trade mark, much of the following will be difficult to achieve, so trade mark registration is the key to comprehensive social media protection. Set up a social media monitoring programme. Ideally this will track both: 1. usernames (for trade mark infringement); and 2. social media posts (for trade mark and copyright infringement. For example, misuse of your photographs). This programme should keep track of both people trying to trade off your name or other intellectual property rights such as photographs of your products and people involved in a deliberate strategy to disparage your brand.

There are various software tracking solutions although they come with a price tag. However, two low technology solutions are: 1. conduct regular (for example, weekly) searches on the main social media sites; and 2. include a reporting tool on your website and social media sites so that your fans can easily let you know if they identify any infringing sites. Good documentation – In all cases, it is essential that you have clear records of your rights and the infringing activity that has occurred. In many instances, you will not need to rely on this and people will move on to new brands which do not put up as much of a fight. However, if you are dealing with a persistent infringer, full and accurate records of their activities are essential in pursuing more formal legal action. It is easy for a user to delete social media posts and whilst it is possible to obtain historic posts from a platform, this is a time-consuming and expensive process. Use the social media platform’s automatic reporting mechanism (also known as filing a takedown notice) – All of the main social media players have some form of semi-automated notice and takedown process. This involves an online form whereby you identify your rights (for example by means of a link to your product on your official website to prove copyright ownership or one of your registered trademarks) and the infringing page or username. It is even possible to use this process to remove a listing from Google’s search index. You need to be careful that all takedown requests are completed carefully and accurately as they are often published in ‘transparency reports’: Google does this on a regular basis. Send a cease and desist letter – This is the first line of attack by a lawyer. It puts the infringer on

notice of your rights, identifies why the other person’s activities infringe your rights and the consequences of non-compliance. It is very common for cease and desist letters to be published online so even if you address it as private and confidential it may be widely circulated on the internet. There are two approaches to cease and desist letters. In more sensitive circumstances, consider sending a relatively nice letter directly to the infringer. If this tactic has failed in the past, the issue is a particular concern for you or things have escalated to an extent that this is unlikely to be successful, ask your lawyer to write to them directly. It is wise to get legal input on both letters, as if you overstate your rights or suggest that you have a claim for trade mark infringement when you don’t you open yourself up to a legal claim for ‘groundless threats’. Nothing – In many instances, doing nothing may be the best policy. If a post has not gained much attention, it is likely to blow over with time. Indeed, if you engage too early you may turn a small grievance into a much bigger issue. This is the risk of automated systems. They do not necessarily pick up on the relative nuances of a situation and can lead issues to blow out of proportion if a standard approach is applied to all potentially infringing situations. It is important that you plan how you are going to approach different types of infringement in advance – not all infringements are equal. Some are annoying but the follower numbers are low so will have minimal impact. Others may involve high profile or vocal bloggers who will publish anything you send to them on social media. It is therefore important that you carefully balance what you do and put a plan in place for dealing with each type of infringement. Rosie Burbridge is a senior associate at the Fashion Law Group at Fox Williams.

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P R O D U C T

A MARRIAGE BETWEEN TRADITIONAL AND CONTEMPORARY Gravalot is an emerging Afro-Contemporary menswear label, rooted in the exploration of Afro-Caribbean cultures and the stories arising from such distinct landscapes. The garments marry modern and traditional materials and manufacturing techniques, while preserving the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s authentic heritage. Key styles in the collection include the Balogun shirt, designed to be suited to both smart and casual occasions, with a silhouette allowing movement and breathability. The Harpsden shirt, meanwhile, is constructed from deep black textured Irish linen. Its concealed placket and reduction in outward detail makes for a versatile garment. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

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RADAR Spotlighting style WEST COAST WONDERS q Begg & Co has been handcrafting premium scarves, stoles, wraps and throws from cashmere, silk and lambswool yarns in Ayr, on Scotland’s west coast, since 1866. Over 150 years later the company is still located in the same factory, more than doubling in space to cater for the growing global demand for its products. Currently stocked in the likes of Selfridges, Liberty, Mr Porter, United Arrows and Fortnum & Mason, the brand is not only sought after by shoppers but international fashion houses and luxury brands in regards to creating their own collections. www.beggandcompany.com —

VICI-LIFE ESTABLISHED: 2016

FAR FROM BASIC u

HISTORY: Founded by four friends in London, premium watch label VICI-Life was established to change the mindset of men wearing the same watch every day, to wearing a watch tailored for the occasion.

Les Basics continues to evolve the idea of wardrobe staples for s/s 18, focusing on high quality fabrications, colour palettes and fit. The brand transitions into the new season with corduroy and colour; washed out blue and dusty pink are added to Les Basics’ collection of essentials, while these new colours continue to sit alongside longstanding shades of white, grey, khaki, navy and black. A classic and fine corduroy joins the collection, meanwhile, juxtaposing the perforated cotton and loop back fleece carryover fabrics that are used to form the updated silhouettes; Le Raglan Blazer and Le Smart Short. Other styles to note this season are Le Roll Tee, Le Zip Sweat, Le Zip Gilet and Le Wind Cheater – all new garments that make up the latest collection. www.lesbasics.net —

SIGNATURE STYLE: The collection is defined by three sub-lines (London, New York and Sydney) to cater for various events, such as work, holiday or a black tie event. A discovery for MWB at the recent London Fashion Week Men’s showcase, premium accessory label VICI-Life takes a more tailored approach to watch shopping. Designed as a lifestyle collection of watches, there are three lines within the range – London, which is designed for ‘the gentleman’, New York, which is designed for ‘the trendsetter’ and Sydney for ‘the weekender’. In terms of design the London is elegant, smart and subtle, defined by its strippedback silhouette, while the New York is edgy, dark and varied with a mix of leather or Milanese straps and a shadowy face. Finally, the Sydney offers additional functionality through its chronograph features, showcasing a vibrant, deep blue face. With 21 per cent of orders coming from international markets including the Netherlands, Malaysia, Australia, Germany and Singapore, the brand is already making waves despite still only being in its infancy. Looking to build its wholesale presence for the new season in the UK, meanwhile, prices range from £42-£65 depending on volume and style. www.vici-life.co.uk

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PRODUCT NEWS RULE OF THREE t

MAKING AN IMPACT p A commitment to making lower impact clothing for everyday life and sports remains the compass for how ethical clothing label Howies makes and designs each collection, 22 years after its inception. After a complete review of the brand’s design direction, as well as the addition of new categories, Howies began to wholesale once again in 2016 and currently has a growing number of accounts across the UK. For the new season, the collection will contain knitwear, organic shirting and denim lines. Buyers can also expect 100 per cent super fine merino knits and a waterproof city blazer, which has no harmful PFC treatments. www.howies.co.uk —

As the brainchild of Prama Bharadwaj, a global authority on sustainability, Matthew Murphy, the co-owner of leading independent store OTHER/shop, and Richard Martin, the former managing director of i-D magazine and global marketing director of Fred Perry, Re.Sustain is a combination of three diverse but complementary talents. The collection consists of both men’s and womenswear styles across T-shirts, sweatshirts, trousers, jackets and tunics in a palette of white, mandarin and cobalt blue. The range follows a contemporary unisex style, with a loose and simplified cut in soft and lightweight jersey, sweats and denim. Each item is finished with unexpected detailing through loopback exposed sweats, oversized pockets and double stitched hems. Re.Sustain, meanwhile, ensures that each part of the garment process is fully sustainable and certified from the sourcing of the yarn, dye houses and through to manufacturing. www.resustainclothing.com —

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

DIADORA X ROBERTO BAGGIO This season sees Diadora present an exclusive project in partnership with Roberto Baggio, legendary Italian football player. The Sportswear Collection will feature a track jacket, recapturing the magic of the 1994 FIFA World Cup. While colours and print remain the same as the original, the remake takes on a cool urban slant with new materials and fit, —

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LOAKE RRP£195 01536 415411

ANTONY MORATO £61.80 0039 4183 80038

BASE LONDON £32.48 020 8532 0000

RED WING PRICE ON REQUEST 001 800 733 9464

BELSTAFF 0800 2100 302

HARRYS OF LONDON £147 020 7440 2992

TAN LINES Although footwear trends within menswear are seldom revolutionary – preferring to revisit signature styles than introduce new ones – interest continues to come from fresh colour palettes, contrasting soles and pared-back detailing on uppers. — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

WOOD WOOD PRICE ON REQUEST 07447 531949

HUDSON PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7324 7590

SIMPLE £32 020 7602 2866

IntRODUCIng

pERFORMAnCE StREtCH FOR SS18

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CHEAP MONDAY PRICE ON REQUEST 0046 8 30 59 00

SIMON CARTER £12.50 020 8683 4475

LQD SKIN PRICE ON REQUEST 0061 3 9938 1250

THE EDIT Accessories and lifestyle products to complement your store’s offer. — RICHINGS GREETHAM £40.83 01328 862387

R.M. WILLIAMS £157 01767 601145

PAUL HEWITT £24.50 01494 486220

PENROSE LONDON £34 01787 372396

MAX V KOENIG £508 020 3697 4200

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MODA GENT 6-8 AUGUST 2017 • NEC, BIRMINGHAM

Moda Gent is the place to be inspired this season. Already established as the trade’s most complete destination for menswear, the show has refreshed its offer with a host of brand new signings for the s/s 18 season. —

BOWLER & BEACH Defined by accessible luxury, Bowler & Beach enters its second year with its debut at Moda Gent. Inspired by the beach culture of Ibiza, the swimwear specialist makes swim style effortless, bringing men the option of something more inspiring than high street designs without the prohibitive price tag. Bowler & Beach has already established a niche presence for itself across the UK, and will evolve further with its arrival at Moda Gent next month. Stand P43 —

NICHOLAS ALEXANDER New to the industry as well as being new to Moda Gent, Nicolas Alexander is a burgeoning start-up with big aspirations. The men’s swimwear label is designed around the concept of a carefully tailored, mid-length swimshort, brought to life in a range of bold and eclectic prints and colours. Driven by dreams, inspired by adventure and tailored for the sun, Nicolas Alexander arrives with its debut Modern Nomad collection and sets its sights firmly on making a mark in the menswear industry. Stand: Moda Edit —

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TOM CRIDLAND Having only sold directly to consumers up until now, revolutionary menswear brand Tom Cridland will break into wholesale this spring with its debut at Moda Gent. The sustainable label is committed to creating designs of longevity, backed by a 30 year guarantee that inspires consumers to ‘buy better, buy less’. Stand P38 —

O’NEILL Legendary surfwear label O’Neill brings summer to the show this season with its latest collections for both men and women. The original Californian surf, snow and lifestyle label maintains all of its hallmark aesthetics for the new season, inspiring buyers with effortless summer fashion for festivals, beachlife and beyond. Stand P41 —

DISCOVER MODA GENT’S COMPREHENSIVE BRAND LIST AND REGISTER TO ATTEND AT WWW.MODA-UK.CO.UK

K-SWISS Already established on the radar of those in the trade, K-Swiss celebrates the next chapter in its heritage with its arrival at Moda Gent. Since the introduction of its first all-white leather tennis shoe, K-Swiss has inspired generations with its quality, performance and fit. Discover the on-court performance and off-court style that perfectly complements apparel this s/s 18 season. Stand J18 —

BEST IN SHOW

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London Fashion Week Men’s presented a comprehensive schedule of catwalk shows, presentations and events at the beginning of June, with MWB on hand to pick five highlights from the s/s 18 edition. —

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

OLIVER SPENCER

For s/s 18 Pringle of Scotland presented a collection inspired by the colours, textures and landscapes of the ocean, showing its expertise in traditional knit processes and its dedication to innovation. Raw, organic finishes evoke thoughts of salt-washed and sun-bleached wool, while vintage railway postcards from the 20s inspire a coastal landscape jacquard on an oversized jumper. A signature in all Pringle collections is the inclusion of iconic knit designs, and this season is no different with the introduction of Sanquhar – the creation of small geometrics patterns in two colours, in grids or diamonds to create a base design often seen in the classic Fair Isle. —

Playing homage to the city he lives in, British designer Oliver Spencer turns the focus to London this season, reflecting the diversity and versatility of its inhabitants. The colour palette of warm pink, cool blues, deep umber and ecru is accentuated by stripes and checks that run through the whole collection. Fabrics, meanwhile, are textured and intricate with an artisan feel, while artisan prints play a part for the first time. For the new season, Spencer unveils an exclusive T-shirt collaboration with artist David Austen. Combining art and fashion, the text and illustration that Austen uses across three exclusive pieces convey the evocative nature of his work. —

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KENT & CURWEN

RICHARD JAMES

WHAT WE WEAR

For Kent & Curwen’s s/s 18 collection, traditional British summer dress codes are adopted and then systematically broken to lend an antiestablishment edge to a gentleman’s wardrobe. Oversized striped and brocaded Regatta blazers in silk and cotton silk, badged with the 1926 Rose of England, are dressed down with a mismatching college scarf, tennis shorts, long striped socks and plimsolls, a frayed-edge cardigan and detachable collar shirt for a sporting take on deconstructed tailoring. Colour for the season takes its lead from track and field with ecru, white and off-white mixed with sand, tan, burgundy and a patchwork of college stripes taken from the brand’s house archive. —

S/s 18 sees Richard James step back to 1957 to the Whitney Museum of American Art, notably the work of Ellsworth Kelly and his abstract works titled Atlantic, Bar and Painting in Three Panels. A soothing colour palette of dusty pink, pistachio, coffee, ivy and navy are interspersed by accents of green, aqua and fuchsia. Wool and silk linen blends give clean lines and lightness to double breasted tailoring while cotton bouclé jackets lend a depth of texture. Raglan shoulder zip-front bombers and blousons in cotton and linen bring a recognisably 50s feel. —

Founded by musician Tinie Tempah, London contemporary menswear label What We Wear hit the scene last season. For s/s 18 Tempah, real name Patrick Chukwuemeka Okogwu, channels his love for sportswear. On the basketball court that had been built in The Old Truman Brewery for London Fashion Week Men’s, the collection – titled Bring Your Game – featured 70s-style stand collars with ring-pull zippers, varsity jackets and sturdier technical fabrications. The new season also sees What We Wear collaborate with Cutler & Gross on an exclusive eyewear design, as well as with Converse with a bespoke remake of the brand’s signature skate shoe, The One Star. —

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LONDON STREET STYLE As official media partners to London Fashion Week Men’s, MWB was on hand throughout the show to snap some of the more sartorial of visitors. —

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THE WORD ON JACKET REQUIRED FROM EVENT DIRECTOR ALICE ELLIOTT

Alpha Industries, Armor Lux, Birkenstock, Cuisse de Grenouille, Eat Dust, Ellesse, Le Coq Sportif, Lee Jeans, Sandqvist, Santa Cruz and Wrangler. How else is the show developing? Jacket Required has grown organically in the past six years. We now have 200-plus brands, but we have no desire to grow any more other than introducing the women’s. It’s more about quality than quantity. Many collections have been with us from the start, but we also search for new, interesting brands, because that’s what makes the show essential. No good buyer wants to miss something new.

“ If a label is relevant to the stores which visit the show, both on a UK and international level, then Jacket Required is the right place for them to be.”

What’s new about Jacket Required this time? We are introducing Jacket Required WOMAN this season. There will also be a slight new layout at the show this season, including the introduction of a new room. This will house some of our exhibitors along with an installation from Sex Skateboards and an area for Presented By, a new trainer consignment store on Percy Street in London. The store offers limited edition, rare and exclusive collectables and they will have some of these key pieces on show. We do like to adapt the layout slightly each season, as we are aware many buyers are travelling to back to back shows so it’s always a positive to introduce something fresh to spark their senses. What’s prompted the move to introduce women’s? There’s a growing trend for sophisticated street and casual clothing for women, so the timing feels right. The show is established, and highly regarded as a key menswear destination on the international buying calendar, and there is no reason why womenswear can’t flourish within the show too. After all, a lot of brands do both men’s and women’s. We have a number of labels which are extremely relevant to the women’s market as they stand, and we want to allow our brands to present a strong womenswear edit to targeted retailers. There will not be a separate womenswear area; the women’s edit will be positioned next to the men’s collections. Some examples of brands bringing both men’s and women’s are

How do you go about selecting new exhibitors? If a label is relevant to the stores which visit the show, both on a UK and international level, then Jacket Required is the right place for them to be. Everything we do is driven by our visitors, so we’re constantly searching for mid to high level brands that they’re going to want to sell in their shops. We try to take the same approach in putting together an interesting and balanced selection of brands, covering tailoring, outerwear, denim, sportswear, footwear, accessories and lifestyle products which have a point of difference. How else do you keep the show appealing to visitors? Last season we developed the show to offer a sub event and introduced the ‘Jacket Required Presents’ series on site with The Massimo Osti Archive exhibition. It was very well received. Creating interesting content in association with the show gives people another reason to attend. This season, we’ll continue this concept with the recently announced pop-up exhibition, ‘Jacket Required Presents The Art of the Football Shirt’. Curated by Neal Heard, we will be presenting a selection of football shirts which travel through history, design and popular culture, narrating the links between key pieces with iconic status, and how they fuse with the worlds of music, fashion and politics. It’s really relevant to the industry at the moment, with a lot of brands producing football inspired jerseys within current collections. Any standout new brand additions showing this time? There’s a lot of buzz around 6876 Modern Studies, as this will be available to view for the first time in Europe at Jacket Required. The Cords & Co will be in attendance and are launching in a big way. along with a comeback collection from Hi-Tec, HTS74, which is already stocked in some really key stores including Colette Paris and Storm CPH.

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JACKET REQUIRED All eyes will be on London and the Old Truman Brewery come July 26 and 27, as the UK’s premium menswear show returns to town, along with the introduction of some women’s collections too. Here’s some key brands to look out for this time. — u

PODENCO EIVISSA

M.X PARIS After seven years designing women’s haute couture and prêt-à-porter, Maxime Simoens decided to open up a new chapter of his career – launching menswear in 2016. The outcome is M.X Paris, a men’s-only premium prêt-à-porter brand, featuring sporty, ultra-contemporary clothes for the modern man about town. The highlight of each piece is the beautiful craftsmanship, especially brought to the hardware., including the attention paid to the rivets, buttons and fastenings, as well as the details of the stitching in the form of ‘X’. Everything is well thought through to enhance the M.X Paris branding story. —

Swimwear straight out of Ibiza, Podenco Eivissa is a firm favourite on the beaches of the hedonistic Balearic island. For s/s 18, the brand has upped its game, introducing bright colours and prints which reflect the bohemian fun and frivolity of Ibiza. The collection features a light new colour palette of aqua blues, inspired by the island’s shores, dusty pinks from the flamingos scattered across the salt flats, clusters of lilac found in the lavender nestled along the mountain edges, and bright lemon yellows from the fruit trees that grace the island standing tall for summer. There’s palm leaf designs, polka dots, stripes and the Podenco hound design which features on the brand’s logo. More new additions to the s/s 18 collection include a collection of towelling polos in a pastel colour palette, accompanied by a set of fresh printed summer shirts. — t

SANTA CRUZ

CUISSE DE GRENOUILLE Cuisse de Grenouille sources its design inspirations from the 1960s, giving vintage looks a modern makeover. The brand was founded by two brothers, Lucas and Severin, Parisians with a fondness for the 1960s ‘gentlemen surfers’ look. Their first collection of board shorts came in 2010, with the fabrics and fit being key to their initial success. Season after season, Cuisse de Grenouille has developed its offer, and today has a total wardrobe look. Recently Cuisse de Grenouille launched its first women’s collection, in line with the men’s looks, and it now aspires to develop its international exposure. More than a clothing brand, Cuisse de Grenouille provides a whole lifestyle, incorporating books, surfboards, sunglasses and so on. —

Santa Cruz has been an industry-leading manufacturer of board sports lifestyle hardware and apparel for over 40 years. Established in 1973, Santa Cruz defined a generation with eye-popping graphics and innovative products that resonated with tastemakers, pro-riders and younger generations alike. Through the visions of legendary artist Jim Phillips, the Santa Cruz graphics have become some of the most iconic and recognisable in board sports history. Located south of San Francisco, along the coast of Monterey Bay Sanctuary, Santa Cruz is a Mecca for skate and surf culture. Specialising in casual skate-driven streetwear, Santa Cruz’s extensive product line ranges from classic cut heavy hooded sweats and graphic tees, through to plaid shirting and walk-shorts. For s/s 18, it is introducing some subtler elements to the line, with smaller embroidered embellishments. The Santa Cruz Black Collection is driven by a strong monochrome colour palette, twinned with graphic content with a darker edge. Visuals for this theme tend to be born out of the ‘kustom kulture’ scene, with tattoo art prominent. —

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NEWGATE

M.C. OVERALLS

Founded by husband and wife team Jim and Chloe Read, Newgate is renowned for its innovative, designled timepieces. The destination brand, which began with an iconic clock collection over 25 years ago, has taken inspiration from its archives, launching a comprehensive unisex watch collection that celebrates the very best of British design whist catering to the modern sartorial appetite. Combining clean radial shapes and understated components with the brand’s signature high performance materials, the collection is a celebration of the best in contemporary design, exemplifying an ongoing commitment to quality and innovation. Launching exclusively at Jacket Required is the Torpedo Drumline. Designed in the UK, the Torpedo watch has been crafted in a durable 40mm 316 surgical grade stainless steel cylinder case, available in a variety of timeless colourways including all black and spun steel aviator dial, completed with Italian leather or utilitarian canvas strap. —

M.C. Overalls was founded by three young brothers, Myer Cooper, Morris Copper and Louis Maister, in 1908. As self-taught tailors at just 15 years old, they began crafting hand embroidered waistcoats, later opening two East London factories to make surplus uniforms for the British Army in WWII and evolving into artisan clothing offering denim jackets, trousers and a variety of specialist trade overalls that later became known as M.C. Overalls. Despite its rich history, M.C.Overalls is not a heritage brand that references the past. It’s about making clothing relevant for a modern workforce. The intention is to offer a ‘uniform’ for craftspeople and creative pioneers. The collection comprises core staples of sweatpants and sweatshirts, and a signature overall in different colourways, adding styles and accessories as seasonal ‘pinnacle’ pieces. —

J BRAND

PARATUS Paratus is a new men’s accessories brand launching for s/s 18. After a career designing footwear and accessories with companies such as Supreme, Paul Smith and Barbour, designer Tom Fenning decided to create Paratus to provide sophisticated, well-crafted, functional and accessible products for young professionals who appreciate the same level of detail and quality. Fenning felt that the combination of the streetwear and luxury goods sector was ripe with inspiration for new products, combining the youthful innovation of skate inspired culture with the quality and craftsmanship associated with luxury goods. The first collection has a military inspired theme, drawing on the clean and functional lines and details of military designs. Camouflage, olive and navy full-grain leathers are used across a range of backpacks, tote bags, wallets and belts. —

Since its founding in 2004, J Brand has been at the forefront of luxury denim. The company was one of the original premium Los Angeles denim brands, starting a trend that continues to this day. J Brand’s products are handmade, using fabrics sourced in Italy and Japan. For s/s 18, the brand is continuing with its hugely successful EU Core range, sitting alongside the bigger seasonal collections. A never out of stock service, it’s made up of six strong washes, available in four fits; straight, slim, taper and skinny. J Brand is about to deliver a new fabrication into Europe for a/w 17, called French Terry. It’s a woven loop back dobby weave, that looks like a denim jean but feels like a sweat-pant to wear. — t

COLE HAAN Making its Jacket Required debut from the USA, Cole Haan is a iconic American footwear brand that is now offering up much more a fashion forward offer. For s/s 18, the GrandPro design eliminates all of the unnecessary weight of traditional court shoes, without sacrificing flexibility, cushioning or ergonomics. The result is an extremely light shoe that’s a joy to wear, available in burnished and hand-stained leather. Meanwhile, the lightweight, laceless ZeroGrand Stitchlite Wingtip Oxford features an on-trend knitted upper for maximum flexibility and breathability and offers a sock-like fit. This wear-with-anything design covers all the bases, and is in contrast with Cole Haan’s more traditional wingtips and other classics. —

SS18 – PALLADIUM X CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN Embracing Raeburn’s “Recycled” design manifesto, Palladium launches its most forward-thinking collection to date.

www.palladiumboots.com For all sales enquiries: jkhalifa@palladiumboots.com

160 YEARS IN THE MAKING B E A PA R T O F T H E M O S T E XC LU S I V E K N I T W E A R B R A N D F O R G E N E R AT I O N S A L I M I T E D N U M B E R O F R E TA I L L I S T I N G S A V A I L A B L E . T O E N Q U I R E A B O U T B E C O M I N G A N E X C L U S I V E S T O C K I S T, C A L L + 4 4 ( 0 ) 1 4 8 4 8 4 8 4 3 4 O R E M A I L I N F O R M AT I O N @ S L A I T H. C O. U K

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THE BUYERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GUIDE YOUR ESSENTIAL HANDBOOK TO THE S/S 18 SEASON

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SEASONAL DEVELOPMENTS From collaborations to new launches, we take a look at the latest developments within the mainstream menswear industry for the s/s 18 season. —

CG CLUB OF GENTS UNVEILS SAVILE ROW COLLECTION

CAMEL ACTIVE SHOWCASES SIGNATURE PIECES WITH HERITAGE LINE Camel Active shines the spotlight on collection heroes this season with its Heritage segment. This range introduces retro styles based on the brand’s typical DNA, with strong military elements running throughout. The Heritage segment focuses on offering comfort and protection, with a wide range of silhouettes from boxy and oversized, to shorter, more sporty shapes. Lightweight linens and perforated leathers sit comfortably next to jerseys and destroyed denims. The field jacket, for example, features the Camel Active DNA with a washed, garment-dyed finish, while soft, light-coloured leather biker jackets with stand-up collars and straps have a sporty feel. —

INNOVATION REMAINS KEY AT ETERNA Daring fashion styles are more important than ever at shirt specialist Eterna, prevalent throughout the brand’s s/s 18 collection with new materials, shapes and finishes. With the fusion of formal clothing and sportswear, shorter shirt lengths play an increasing role within the collection, alongside the introduction of small, modern button-down and under-button collar designs. A new glow-in-thedark print, meanwhile, is an example of ironic undertones within the collection, with a small Wi-Fi symbol printed in florescent colour on a white shirt which glows in the dark. —

Carl Gross, the parent company of younger, trend-driven sister brand CG Club of Gents, has unveiled its latest development – Savile Row by CG Club of Gents. Inspired by Britpop and British Mods, the new sub-line is designed to be “loud, rebellious and different.” With more premium fabrics, sartorial tailoring, eye-catching patterns and attention to detail, the 15-part collection features suits, jackets and waistcoats. There will also be a range of matching coats, trousers, shirts and T-shirts. For colours, the Savile Row range relies on traditional shades such as classic blue, deep Bordeaux and British green in a variety of shades, while beige and ecru provide contrasting accents. —

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PROTEST UNVEILS ECO-FRIENDLY DESIGNS Surf label Protest continues its innovation within the sportswear category with the introduction of boardshorts made from a bamboo blend for s/s 18. Maintaining its dedication to developing more sustainable product options, the brand has also added styles made from cotton and recycled polyester. Inspiration for the new season, meanwhile, comes from shamans and their ability to enter an altered state, “reconnecting the wearer with what matters; life, love and the natural world.” —

SLAITH INTRODUCES NEW COLOURWAYS FOR S/S 18 SEASON Premium knitwear brand Slaith has unveiled its latest collection for s/s 18, taking inspiration from classic British style updated with bold and exciting new colourways. The new season welcomes the addition of three new shades across both men’s and womenswear – Brown Sugar, Periwinkle and Opal. The key garments for Slaith, meanwhile, are the 30gg polo shirt and V-neck jumper, both of which are seamless and hand finished to the highest standard. —

DOUGLAS DRIVES FORWARD WITH NEW TREND LED DIRECTION British lifestyle label Douglas continues the evolution of its design ethos that began with its move into a new contemporary look and feel in a/w 17. The s/s 18 collection features a wide range of natural materials including linens, cottons and wools to create a look which balances structure with nature. Irregular finishes are juxtaposed with geometric and striped woven designs, while the brand’s signature tailoring blends effortlessly with casualwear though slubbed and melange fabrics. Colours include soft blues, indigo and navy to tie the complete look together, while khaki and cranberry shades add contrast. —

DIGITAL EXPANSION AT FYNCH HATTON The s/s 18 season sees lifestyle label Fynch Hatton expand its digital offer with the launch of a B2B shop, following a successful launch of the ordering tool via an app. Customers will now be able to directly access the latest stock and place orders through an overview of the live inventory. Furthermore, stockists will have access to individual product information and marketing material. The B2B shop will be launched in more than 40 markets this month. — uuu

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BUGATTI q

OLYMP p

CASUAL FRIDAY p

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ETERNA q

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Regardless of budget or style preference, every man needs a great set of basics in his wardrobe and this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s love affair with all things minimalist means you can cater to your shoppersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; needs perfectly. A number of shirting brands have adopted this trend for s/s 18, including German label Seidensticker, which adds a notably high-end touch with ultra-fine yarn counts, while Eterna follows suit with a more premium take on the military trend, including unexpected fabric contrasts and rubber-coated buttons. Another brand to add khaki to its colourway is Olymp within its Secret Garden story, sitting comfortably next to navy to act as a collection neutral. Brands taking a more relaxed approach to the minimalist trend include debut label The Cords & Co and Danish brand Casual Friday, both of which present shirting and outerwear with little to no detailing and easy-to-wear silhouettes. In terms of suiting, Digel really makes its mark within the Simple Lines story with sharp silhouettes, clean lines and the use of a technicallooking cotton blend. Finally, outerwear remains equally as pared back, with both Bugatti and S4 presenting long line trench coats with innovative fabrications and finishes.

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FUNCTIONAL

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Function and form are two buzzwords set to be heard in many a brand presentation this season, with labels looking to the recurring explorer trend for inspiration. Checked shirts remain a core product at Fynch Hatton, taking colour influences from the earthy tones of South Africa. On the move again, trouser specialist Mac looks to Miami for its inspiration, with chinos and classic five-pocket cargos having more volume in the top area, yet more conic towards the bottom â&#x20AC;&#x201C; again in khaki, sand and brown with a canvas-like fabric finish. Camel Active is known for its practical yet stylish designs, and this season is no different with its travel wear featuring functional fabrics, shapes and ergonomics. Key highlights include the lightweight sweatshirt jacket in new bomber-jacket silhouettes, with modernised quilting and zips. A refined assortment of coats, jackets and shirts are presented in Carl Grossâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mainline collection, meanwhile, including a field jacket in linencotton, as well as elegantly sporty silk blousons. Finally, Red Point is inspired by an active and natural lifestyle, with the current collection emphasising functionality with smart fabric qualities, sporty details, interesting dyes and cool metallic shades. uuu

CONQUERING NATURE W I L L I A M H E AT O N W D H M E N S W E A R AG E N C I E S Crocodile House, Manor Gardens, Thorner LS14 3EQ Leeds - West Yorkshire Tel.: 0044 - 7831388888 Email: wheaton@saville-heaton.co.uk

VISIT US ON: MODA Menswear 06. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 08.08.2017

www.redpoint-sportswear.com

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C OA S TA L Less a trend and more a summer season perennial, coastal influences come around once again, prevalent in both young, contemporary menswear and the more mainstream labels. While a colour palette of red, white and blue dominates many collections, the key is to not take this trend too literally. Breton stripes are in abundance this season, with the likes of Afield and Colours & Sons presenting updated versions for s/s 18, while denim is sun bleached at Mac and chinos are bold and blue at Bruhl. German lifestyle label Casamoda takes an Atlantic twist this season with lightweight chambrays and relaxed fits, whilst Danish brand Casual Friday adds interest to its denim shirt with oversized horizontal stripes. A nautical colour palette is at the heart of the latest offering from Roy Robson, with red trousers and shorts offering a summer alternative for braver shoppers, alongside outdoor sports jackets and parkas which, thanks to taped seams and membranes, are wind and water-resistant and regulate moisture. Finally, outerwear label Nagano heads to the coast, combining natural fabrics, such as cool cotton, structured and tear-proof ripstop textures, or intelligent, temperature-regulating synthetic fibres.

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BENVENUTO PURPLE q A colourful alternative to the more traditional blazer offer, shades of red, wine and maroon are at the forefront of a number of collections this season. Benvenuto Purple unveils its ‘Purple dandy never dies’ story for s/s 18, playing on a mixture of urban influences and preppy dandy looks, where patterns are playful but still graphically clean. Its sister label Benvenuto Black introduces blends of wool and cotton in washed out vintage looks, reinterpreting the suit for the new season. Magee’s s/s 18 collection, meanwhile, features strong, nautically inspired colours: navy, sand, sky blue and a seasonal splash of raspberry, while tailoring is softened across outerwear, knitwear, chinos and shirts. German label Digel incorporates shades of rose and purple into its latest collection, across fabrications such as soft linen, jersey and easy wear wool, while Roy Robson focuses on the separate suit for s/s 18, with summer half linings and crease resistant wools, perfect for the travelling man.

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WINE & DINE

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LET THE MOOSE LOOSE There’s another big player in the Canadian outerwear market that you’re going to be hearing a lot more about this autumn, and it goes by the unforgettable name of Moose Knuckles. Tom Bottomley met Terry Duckworth, director of UK agency Pop Up Showroom, which sees a/w 17 at Pitti Uomo as the official European expansion launch, along with the brand’s creative director, Steph Hoff. —

It seems Canada Goose and the like are going to have a newer, edgier sibling taking some outerwear market share in the UK this autumn. Moose Knuckles, also from Canada, may well have been going since 2007, but it is only now really getting some recognition outside of its home market. On an agency side, Pop Up Showroom is handling the wholesale business across men’s, women’s and childrenswear. Director Terry Duckworth says that although Pop Up Showroom has had dealings on the sales side with Moose Knuckles in the UK market for a couple of years (having initially being approached by them through recommendation), they only started to see more substantial sales traction with it for a/w 16. And it’s only really now, for a/w 17, that there is a major focus on it.

This has come about with a new dedicated European distribution set-up in Milan, from which Pop Up Showroom is now receiving full backing to really grow the brand on these shores. “We have had experience of launching other Canadian outerwear brands in the past, and that’s why we were initially approached to trial the brand in the UK market,” says Duckworth. “But now we have the full backing of Marco D’Avanzo, the new Moose Knuckles GM and VP of Sales and Marketing Europe, we really think this could be big. We originally tested it in the UK market with stores such as Choice and Giancarlo Ricci, who had a phenomenal time with it.” The core jackets retail for between £700-£900. Less costly jackets in the collection retail for around £300; equally full fox fur jackets can go up to an eye-watering £4,000.

“We were given a full sample set of the whole collection for a/w 17, and off the back of that we’ve now picked up the likes of Selfridges, Accent, Tessuti and OD’s,” offers Duckworth. “We’ll have about 57 doors with it for this winter. A/w 16 was a great success on a small scale, including a strong sell-through in Harrods, but a/w 17 will be on a much bigger scale. There’s a huge push from the new European base, and they’ve got a decent marketing budget. There’s plans for a special event in Selfridges. The brand is very cool, and it’s more of a fashion fit for this area of the market than what its competitors are offering. This is going to be the next big thing.” The metal Moose Knuckles logo on the sleeve looks like knuckle dusters, but it’s actually meant to represent the paw print of a moose in

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the snow. It’s also not solely an autumn/winter outerwear brand, there are midweight and lighter weight jackets, and a full apparel and accessories collection, as was on show for s/s 18 on the standalone stand at Pitti. The brand’s summer parka is essentially a lightweight interpretation of its bestselling winter parka, and it has also proven to be a popular piece. From having six jackets in its showroom for two years, Pop Up Showroom now has a much more in-depth 60-piece collection, across men’s, women’s and childrenswear. The Moose Knuckles brand was actually established in Canada in 2007, utilising traditionsteeped outerwear factories in Winnipeg and expert furriers in Toronto. The design team is based in Montreal, so it’s Canadian to the core. Creative director Steph Hoff says there are lots of Canadian outerwear brands, but Moose Knuckles is really known for its fur-trimmed parka, because it’s slimmer, and more finely tailored to the body. Any fox fur the brand uses is ethically sourced. Hoff comments: “Our logo has become really iconic, with rappers, rock stars and the major trend influencers all wearing the brand. Everyone within the counterculture community

gravitated to the brand, and the logo has come to symbolise something different. Even our staff are a community of misfits who didn’t really fit in with corporate culture anywhere else. She continues: “The cool kids didn’t want to be wearing brands that their dads and uncles were wearing; they wanted to wear something new and fresh they thought had been made for them.” So that’s how the brand started to get increasingly established and gain momentum. It’s just taken time to spread in to other markets outside of its Canada home. The moose paw print metal sleeve logo also has a darker twist to it, with the look of knuckle dusters and the Canadian association with ice hockey and the fighting that often goes with it. Says Hoff: “It kind of represents that unrestrained nature of Canada, whether it be that raw aggression found in ice hockey, or the majestic outdoors with the moose.” Although Hoff has only been working for Moose Knuckles for a year and a half, originally from Toronto she says she “grew up with the brand,” so she clearly had a feel for what she was getting in to and an understanding of its attraction. “All the cool kids wore it, and now I’ve been a part of the growth and development of the brand across the US, and now Europe in more recent times. It already had a strong brand DNA, and it had been making a lot of noise with the

right people.” Celebrity wearers of Moose Knuckles include Zac Efron, The Chainsmokers, Sean Paul, Diplo and Lethal Bizzle. The brand’s approach may seem loud and brash, but it’s that aggressive approach which has got it noticed and on to the backs of people with big followings. “We’ve carved a place in the market for ourselves,” says Hoff. “Not by playing nice, but by being the loudest, most aggressive and sometimes most obnoxious brand on the scene. Our initial advertising campaigns were very sexy and forward. We still embody that rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle. There’s a high energy feel to the brand. It’s about partying and being together with your ‘squad’ and friends, and having a good time. But since I’ve come in, we’re refining and defining what that now means on a global scale, aside from Canada where we are well established and people know what we’re about.” Hoff certainly seems proud of where she comes from, and she believes Canada has a lot to shout about right now. “We’re the face of new Canada,” she says. “When people think of log cabins, maple syrup and beavers, that’s not my Canada. I grew up in Toronto, which is one of the most metropolitan cities in the world. Canada is bad-ass on an international level; people just need to take a look at what we’re doing.” Indeed, with the likes of Justin Bieber, Drake and PartyNextDoor, Canada is having a bit of a moment right now, and Moose Knuckles is about to get on that ride on an international level, with the UK firmly part of the growth masterplan.

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LEE COOPER RAISES THE BAR Showing only its second season collection for s/s 18 at Pitti, the original British denim brand Lee Cooper is aiming to elevate both its profile and knowledge of its East End of London heritage – dating back to 1908 – with The Cooper Collection. Tom Bottomley hears the story from head of marketing, Lorna Milliken. —

Lee Cooper is one of those old brands that you know, but you don’t really know why. You’ve seen it around, but you can’t remember where or when, or what it was that it was selling. Yet, as a consumer of a certain age, it’s a logo you instantly recognise. It’s not exactly been a major player in the UK’s more desirable denim arena for quite some time, though outside of the UK, through various licensing deals, in the Far East and Middle East in particular, it’s had tremendous success with very commercial products. To clear the air, and put the brand back on the map, the company has decided to revisit its archives and launch The Cooper Collection as a capsule premium selvedge denim line to recapture the attention of the fashion elite, and give the brand back a bit of prestige. Founded in London’s East End in 1908, by one aspiring entrepreneur by the name of Morris Cooper, who started from humble beginnings making workwear, the Lee Cooper brand is actually the original British denim brand. Though they didn’t start actually making jeans until 1947, ironically the same year the Wrangler brand was launched in the US. Not only that, but Lee Cooper has had plenty of glory years in the style limelight, having been worn by some famous rock ‘n’ roll stars. More of that later. “This new line takes us back to our authentic roots and heritage,” offers Lee Cooper’s head of marketing, Lorna Milliken. “A section of The Cooper Collection has even been produced in East London as a nod to the history, and some of the pieces have been inspired by 1950s Lee Cooper archive garments.” It’s across both men’s and womenswear, with one denim shirt dress inspired by what was actually worn by the women who cleaned the windows in Mayfair and the West End in the 1940s and 50s. The workwear details across the

collection are as true as can be to the original garments. Two key unisex pieces for s/s18 are being produced in East London, a jacket and a pair of wide-leg indigo pants with a selvedge seam. They wholesale for approximately £140, so not in the usual Lee Cooper price point area. “The made in East London pieces are on top of the tree,” explains Milliken. “Then we’ve got our seasonal trend-led pieces, using slightly different fabrics. There’s both men’s and women’s dungarees for s/s 18, which are certainly on trend. Then we have a core stock jean service, available all year-round, which is all again selvedge denim – with three fits for men, and three for women. For men, there’s Harry, a straight fit in a 15oz raw denim, Archie – a workwear tapered leg jean, and Norris – a slim fit tapered stretch 10oz denim jean. These jeans are all set to retail at £195. “We’ve also got some seasonal washes being introduced for s/s 18, such as a ‘dirty wash’,” says Milliken. “It’s quite a tight, edited collection, and we are still looking for our first UK wholesale accounts with it. “We already have accounts in Japan, as they have really embraced the whole made in London element of the products. We know it’s going to take a few seasons to get going, but we’re committed to making this work. We’re selling The Cooper Collection directly to shops as a wholesale model, whereas Lee Cooper is a licensing model.” The branding on The Cooper Collection is also a lot more subtle, just featuring a small red diamond. It raises the question, why launch a premium denim offer and sell directly on a smaller scale? “Most

denim brands are American, or European, so this is recognition that we are the original British denim brand,” Milliken explains. “We have all this rich heritage, and we want to elevate Lee Cooper as a brand. It’s about going back to our archive and giving it a contemporary twist. Having a wholesale division means we can then be in control of our positioning.” Interestingly though, the Lee Cooper mainline is making its debut in USC for s/s 18. Says Milliken: “They saw The Cooper Collection, and because we were putting some effort and energy behind the brand, they saw it as an opportunity to do something with Lee Cooper. We are creating an exclusive collection with them, from a licensing point of view.” Jeans in the USC collection will retail at between £50-£80. Milliken says they are now looking at a tiered approach to the business, to give them some global consistency. It’s all about reappraisal, but the Lee Cooper mainline could become a filtered down version of The Cooper Collection going forward, which would make it a much more commercial proposition – with the opportunity to really get the brand back out there in the UK, and down with the kids. “Lee Cooper was actually the first denim brand to do a full cord collection. It even opened a cordonly store on Carnaby Street in the 1950s,” says Milliken. “We also worked with The Rolling Stones, Rod Stewart, when he was in the Faces, and later the punk movement and bands like The Undertones wore Lee Cooper. The brand has a rich heritage, especially linked to the music scene, that a lot of people aren’t aware of.” With the movement back to corduroy from many of the big denim players such as Levi’s, as well as new brands launching such as The Cords & Co., the time may well be right for Lee Cooper to raid its archives once again. “Cords are something we’ll certainly be looking at again in the near future,” concludes Milliken.

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FOCUS ON PITTI As ever, the summer edition of Pitti Uomo was full of great product. Tom Bottomley did the rounds and picked some standout kit that caught the eye. — IL BISONTE

ORLEBAR BROWN

SPERRY

It would be a shame to come to Florence and not actually feature a brand established in the heart of it. Luckily specialist leather goods company Il Bisonte, established by one Wanny Antonio Di Filippo (a great character, as well as a skilled craftsman) in 1970, makes the grade in spades. There’s weekend bags, rucksacks, messenger bags, briefcases, laptop cases, wallet and belts. In fact, when it comes to hand-crafted quality leather goods, you name it, and they do it. They even do some great chairs and stools with leather cushions, which you could see really working well in The Conran Shop, or any good independent who also dabbles in quality homeware. New bag fabrics for s/s 18 include a premium waxed canvas camo, and a standout bag is an olive canvas and tan leather-trimmed number which was Di Filippo’s first major hit back in 1976 – reintroduced for next spring. Il Bisonte opened a shop on Covent Garden’s Neal Street in December 2016, but the shop in Florence oozes what the brand is all about, with the smell of fine leather filling the air. The brand is now looking to establish a firm wholesale account base in the UK, via The Butler Company. q

The high-end swimwear specialist launched new, lightweight, sport swim-shorts called Jack this spring. A sound success, they are now being rolled out in an array of vibrant colours and prints for s/s 18. It’s the new entry price point swim short, which retails at £95. There’s also matching seasonal colours in the brand’s espadrilles offer, which feature leather on the uppers. On the other end of the price scale, set to retail at £295, is the introduction of the new Bulldog X swim shorts, which have rose gold side fasteners and are made from a premium Italian fabric. To add to the fine shorts, there’s a growing selection of terry towelling polo shirts, including plain and striped options, linen shirts and some strong pique polos. About 40 per cent of Orlebar Brown’s business is done on the swim shorts, but it does also sell a lot of tees, polos and linen shirts. The brand’s head of marketing, Edward Lloyd-Davies, says: “We’ve broadened the range, and are now focusing on 30 ‘hero’ silhouettes – exploring those silhouettes with different fabrications. It’s all very Talented Mr Ripley.” q

S/s 18 sees the brand famous for its Top-sider deck shoes introduce EVA sole units for the first time, on an archive silhouette called the Captain’s Oxford. The same upper also comes with a crepe sole. It’s a reinterpretation of a classic, coming in premium nubuck materials, and it looks like a seasonal winner for sure. The target distribution is the likes of Dover Street Market, End and Mr Porter – sitting at the top of the tree, product-wise. Another new addition to the Sperry offer is the Razzle Dazzle collection, which is inspired by the paint patterns used to camouflage WWI warships at sea. This stems from Sperry’s sometime association with the US navy, though it was actually a British artist and naval officer, Norman Wilkinson, who developed the high contrast patterns, which created an optical illusion that made it difficult to estimate the size, location and direction of the allied warships. The multi-striped Sperry shoes come in canvas lace-up and slip-on styles, available in three different colourways. Also of note, s/s 18 is the first season that Zone Two are handling UK sales and distribution for Sperry. q

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GITMAN BROS.

TRICKER’S

TS (S)

The US shirt specialists are really on fire for s/s 18. As well as the usual fine array of lightweight check preppy button-downs, there’s a whole new selection to spice up your summer shirt offer. Established in 1978, s/s 18 sees the brand celebrate its 40th anniversary with a line of shirts pulled from its archive – in 40 different fabrics. What’s great is that the styles are all made to order: you can choose from five different collar shapes, and whether or not you want short-sleeved or long-sleeved, while Oxford fabrics, Madras, poplin and chambray are all catered for. Another Gitman shirt section focuses on white and various shades of blue, using mainly Japanese fabrics – with lots of indigos and over-dyes. Then there’s a fresh line of printed linen short-sleeve shirts with loop-hole open collar, and as well as some excellent plain 100 per cent rayon loop-hole collar bowling shirts, which are very 1950s. The matching leopard print shirt and shorts combo is an eye-opener for sure, and another point of interest is a small separate capsule line, owned by Gitman Bros., but going under the brand name of Santiago Shirt – all handmade in Chile. Shirting at its finest. q

The Northampton footwear specialists have been busy putting together a s/s 18 collection that stays true to the brand’s roots, while also offering up something fresh and directional. New and revisited sole units are at the core of the new collection. Managing director Martin Mason says they have rediscovered the ‘rambler’ sole, which was apparently big for the brand in the 1980s. “It’s a compound sole that’s quite lightweight and flexible,” comments Mason. “It was originally used on quite a large range of walking footwear, and it was a bestseller at the time. For all of us in the footwear business, discovering, or in this case rediscovering, a good sole unit, is like the holy grail. We have great hopes for this reintroduction.” The ‘Hailwood’ brogue with a Dainite sole has also been brought out of the archives, but it’s been made lighter weight than the original. A suede country boot, and suede desert boot feature the reintroduction of crepe soles in to the collection. Also new is a Vibram wedge gloxi-cut sole for flexibility, which Mason says they will be using a lot more going forward. Another flexible lightweight sole used on a loafer and derby shoe, which was very well received in Italy this summer, has seen further experimentation – with several more shades of suede, including a striking bright blue. This is Tricker’s with an extra kick. q

The brand from Japan established by Takuji Suzuki, brother of Daiki Suzuki of Engineered Garments fame, really has a point of difference going on for s/s 18. Currently only supplying Kafka and The Bureau, it’s also looking to establish a bigger wholesale network within the UK. The new collection uses the finest Japanese and Italian fabrics. Indeed over half of the collection are actually original and exclusive fabrics to TS (S). Suzuki also designs the fabrics himself, which is pretty smart. The deconstructed striped linen jackets, with matching trousers (with drawstring waist and drawstring bottoms,), as well as matching shorts, sold separately, are standout. There’s a fine military-inspired hooded jacket in a double-faced canvas, that also comes with a matching military pant with leg pocket and elasticated ankle cuffs. The selection of wide-leg trousers and shorts within the new line is significant, and there are Japanese style kimono tops, jackets and coats in a linen and rayon mix which are bang on trend, again with matching wide-leg cropped trousers. Long grandad shirts also feature, made to be worn out. The whole silhouette is more relaxed and fluid, and it works. q

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ALL IN THE DETAIL Dubbed the most stylish trade show in the buying calendar, the 92nd edition of Pitti Uomo didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t disappoint with its sartorial elegance. Here are snippets of style that caught our eye. Photography by Enrico Labriola.

From logo emblazoned varsity jackets to crew neck seats and jersey shorts, s/s 18 presents a distinct college theme running throughout the younger, more contemporary menswear brands. MWB highlights the season’s key pieces. —

HIGH SCHOOL DROP OUT PHOTOGRAPHER

Richard Boyle

MAKE-UP ARTIST

Lauren Rippin www.laurensally.co.uk

STYLIST

Victoria Jackson

MODEL

Graham Scaife

www.bossmodelmanagement.co.uk

Jacket – Bench £22 Felix.Tiller@bench.co.uk Shorts – Solid £12.50 020 7488 1380 Striped top – Solid £11.40 020 7488 1380

Jacket – Native Youth £16.75 0161 8352064 Jogging Bottoms – Luke Sport £23 01869 366580 Shirt – Bellfield £11.40 0161 230 7312

Jacket – Alpha Industries £68 01869 366850 Jeans – Bench £19.98 Felix.Tiller@bench.co.uk Shirt – Casual Friday £16.30 020 3432 6387 Trainers – Ylati £92 0039 0815 261242

Zip-up top – Bellfield price on request 0161 230 7312 Jogging bottoms – Luke Sport £23 01869 366580 Trainers – Ylati £92 0039 0815 261242

Shirt – Elvine €32 07587 136547, Jeans – Luke Roper £38 01869 366580 Trainers – Ylati £88 0039 0815 261242

Tracksuit top – Weekend Offender £24 01332 614757 Shorts – Blend He £9.40 020 3432 6387 T-shirt – Chunk Clothing £11 020 7609 6758 Trainers – Ylati £92 0039 0815 261242

Bomber jacket – Soulstar Premium £20 01623 756644 Jeans – Luke Roper £38 01869 366580 T-shirt – Soulstar Premium £8 01623 756644

Jumper – Solid £10.50 020 7488 1380 Denim jersey shorts – Blend He £13.20 020 3432 6387

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | PEOPLE | 72

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK HASIR ADALBERTSTRASSE 12, 10999 BERLIN, GERMANY

SIMON SAYS At last, the heatwave is over. What is it with us Brits? Whatever the weather, we moan. It’s in our national psyche, like the gene for queueing. My Mayfair shop is always roasting in the summer and then we have to burn the furniture to stay warm in winter. It was on the second hottest day of the year that Tom Daley came in for his suit fitting. He wanted to wear Simon Carter for his couple of days round London Men’s Fashion Week, and I was glad to oblige. As we sweltered and sweated, Tom strolled around in his undies, that being his normal amount of fabric covering. I’m pleased to say he is as charming and modest in real life as you may expect, and would certainly hope. Having found him a very smart and flattering West End suit, shirt and tie, he left happy and we briefed our social media manager. I’d taken a selfie in the store, and we posted. If we were expecting a tsunami of online frenzy then we were sorely disappointed. A flicker of interest; not much more. Taking that to the next level, I’ve been working with Richard Ayoade to design his outfit and dress him for his new role as presenter of The Crystal Maze, which relaunched last Friday. I was also commissioned to design the contestants’ outfits. It was a big project, with very little time, but it went smoothly and all were very happy with the results. I’m working with a publicist at the moment, as a bolt-on to my usual PR, and she used the Maze as a hook to get me all manner of interviews on TV, radio and magazines. Indeed, after I email this to the lovely Vic at MWB, I’m off to BBC Radio London. Again, a fair amount of social media uptake, but no visible rise in traffic and sales on my website. I’m scratching my head over this. If we get just a small image of a product in Metro, or one of the Sunday supplements say, then there’s a clear spike in online sales. Hmm. Yet I was at a breakfast presentation by Worth Retail yesterday. One of the speakers recounted the now legendary story (though it was new to me) of a 15 year-old blogger who targeted, influenced and persuaded all the major supermarkets to stop using eggs from caged hens. Hence the signs you’ve seen in the stores. She even made Wagamama drop egg white from caged hens in the one and only dish on their menu that used it by blogging activism. Wow, I thought. I’m not sure what I conclude from this. Maybe I’m just not effective enough at social media, though it seems I’m doing all the things I should, and getting all the stories out there. Maybe I should ask my neighbour’s 15 year-old daughter to help. — Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

Starting out as a small grill restaurant in 1984, Turkish restaurant Hasir is well suited to its home in Berlin’s ultra-hip neighbourhood Kreuzberg. In an area dominated by Turkish eateries, Hasir has made a name for itself as one of the best. The restaurant even claims to have invented the Berlin-style doner kebab (served in a pita pocket) back in 1971. With an extensive menu luring hungry patrons to its doors, food highlights include grilled meats, hummus and lentil soup. Though the restaurant has spawned and now occupies six locations within Berlin, the original branch in Kreuzberg carries the most charm. Having won the approval of visitors and residents alike, the cosy restaurant still draws a crowd at all hours. Open 24 hours, thus serving as the perfect fuel station after a night out, inside the restaurant there’s a bustling atmosphere which boarders on hectic at times. But it’s all part of the experience. If in doubt order the simple but delicious Adana Kebap and Kunefe for dessert. —

PLAN B

MARCO PETRUCCI Export Manager, Armor Lux

Actually, fashion was initially my Plan B. — At the age of five I had started playing drums, and as a teenager I used to be playing several hours a day. By the age of 18, I was playing in several bands. After my A-levels, I started playing drums professionally in a band. We had concerts almost every other night, in different places around Germany and The Netherlands. I did that for two years, and understood then that I did not want to spend the rest of my life playing the drums every night, eventually ending up as a drum teacher. So, I joined my father’s textile company at the age of 23, and I became as passionate about fashion as I was about drumming. That is now 25 years ago. I still play drums, however, and now teach it to my son. —

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CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL KIERON HURLEY FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, LES BASICS My favourite sneakers at the moment are probably my Pairs From Paris running shoes. The brand is a new one to me. I saw them on a guy at the MAN show in Paris, and tracked them down at their store and got myself a pair. They are a bit new looking at the moment, but a nice mix of different tones of tan leather and suede with some technical stuff thrown in. They will look great battered up a little, as they are very easy on the eye. My most worn trousers are currently are my tan Cordings jumbo cords, which are super comfy and, like my Pairs in Paris sneakers, will get better with age. I also have a navy blue pair, but the tan ones are edging it at the moment. I wear a Les Basics Le Crew tee every day now, normally a white one. I am, of course, biased, but I really don’t think there’s anything better out there. It fits and looks great, even on me. Last winter saw a lot of action for my Folk navy Chunky Direction jumper, which is an easy fit, and it works with pretty much everything, and is nice and warm. My army green Les Basics Le Sports Coat has been a popular choice since last summer. It’s really easy to chuck on with most stuff, and I can dress it up or down as the mood takes me. It’s another very solid staple piece. However, the winner of the coat award probably has to go to my Nick Tentis tweed double-breasted overcoat. I have had it for yonks. I think Nick must have made it for me 15 years ago or more. It fits like you’d expect a bespoke coat to fit, showing signs of wear here and there, and the odd moth hole and occasional cigarette burn, but these just seem to add to the charm. Last but not least is my favourite watch, a Rolex Oysterdate Precision. It’s all silver, including the dial, and looks more like a piece of jewellery than a watch. —

TOP TWEETS Liam Gallagher @liamgallagher What an amazing night last night pure love vibrations nobody comes close to Manchester love forever LG x VeryBritishProblems @SoVeryBritish Regretting doing the “looks like we’ve had our summer!” jokes now that it appears to be true Condé Nast Library @CondeLibrary Let’s just get this out of the way right now: Serena Williams is the best tennis player in history. ShortList @ShortList Train prices are now so obscene that this man saved money by going from Newcastle to London via Spain Shaula Evans @ShaulaEvans “The first thing you make might not be the thing that your heart desires, but you just have to begin.” – Ava DuVernay / @AVA Bernie Sanders @SenSanders Health care is a human right. Rosie Percy @rosiepercy Today is my one year anniversary at @ TimeOutLondon so if anyone were to send prosecco to the office, that’d be okay Lauren LaverneVerified account @ laurenlaverne Jun 25 LOVING the security guards dancing! Saw them practising earlier! #bbcglasto The Pool @thepooluk Our real-life Dumbledore, our human Aslan, our universal granddad - @emilyrbakes meets David Attenborough

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p YOUTUBE STAR JIM CHAPMAN AT THE LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S BLOOD BROTHER PRESENTATION EARLIER THIS MONTH.

p CRAIG MCGINLAY AND JOHANNES HUEBL ON THE FRONT ROW OF THE S/S 18 RUNWAY SHOW FOR BRITISH DESIGNER OLIVER SPENCER.

p DAVID BECKHAM JOINED BUSINESS PARTNER DANIEL KEARNS AT THE LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S PRESENTATION FOR THEIR BRAND, KENT & CURWEN.

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | 75

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

LADIES DAY FOR THE PITTI PEACOCKS The usual array of peacocks strutted their stuff at Pitti in June. They really were going for it this time. One dude in a flamboyant hat and highwaist checked trousers really thought he was the bee’s knees, and he had a female accomplice looking equally dapper by his side, walking with her hand on his shoulder no less. I happened to be taking a five minute sit-down break, soaking up the scorching sun, as they waltzed by. He cheekily lightly smacked her bum, and all eyes were on them. It was only then that I noticed she must have recently been sitting on something which had unfortunately stained her bottom area. Blissfully unaware, oh how they preened each other in front of a gathering of admirers. I bet she was mortified when she realised, but I doubt anyone had the notion to tell her.

KASABIAN CREATE CLOTHING LINE WITH LEICESTER CITY East Midlands rockers Kasabian have turned their hand to designing a range of clothing with their beloved Leicester City Football Club, the surprising winners of last season’s Premier League. The exclusive collaboration is in conjunction with industry merchandise and brand management company Bravado, and is designed by the band’s frontman, Sergio Pizzorno. Club legend Muzzy Izzet has been drafted in to model the new collection. It’s well known that Kasabian are huge supporters of Leicester, with the band performing at the club’s Premier League champions party at the end of the remarkable 2015-16 campaign, which was then followed up by two nights of gigs at the King Power Stadium. The new range is called KASABIAN for LCFC, and is now available from the club’s fanstore. It features a selection of track jackets, slogan tees and retro football shirts, all of which include the Leicester City Football Club crest and the Kasabian logo, as well as incorporating the dates both the Foxes and Kasabian were

p PITTI STYLE

p KASABIAN FOR LCFC

formed. Footie shirts are indeed a bit of a trend right now, and although it’s a novel idea, it must be said that it looks like they’ve done a decent job of it.

AMAZON TO TRIAL TRY BEFORE YOU BUY There’s no stopping the machine that is Amazon is there? Now the online retail giant is set to take the hassle out of fashion shopping, by letting you try on outfits before handing over any cash. Items will be shipped to a customer’s door in a resealable box with a prepaid shipping label, which shoppers can then use to send the items back if they aren’t right – all free of charge. No money is charged to your account if they are returned. But Amazon is offering up to 20 per cent off if customers keep five or more pieces. The Prime Wardrobe ‘brings the fitting room to you.’ The new concept is being tested before its launch in the coming months, and is Amazon’s latest ploy to revolutionise shopping in the UK. Shoppers will have seven days to try on all the

p N/A SOCKS

clothes before selecting which they want to keep – and pay for. Amazon is increasingly beefing up its fashion offer, and this will no doubt prove a success. But I sure as hell wouldn’t want to be one of their army of workers who has to deal with all those returns.

NO-SHOW SOCKS THAT STAY ON ALL DAY New York brand N/A Socks has come up with the ultimate in no-show socks that it says will stay on all day. Unlike those flimsy trainer socks that keep slipping down your heel, these are apparently thin enough to be worn with all types of footwear, but thick enough to withstand everyday wear and tear. With the warmer weather now here, the no socks brigade are out in full force, but there’s no denying that no barrier between foot and shoe creates a clammy atmosphere, and undoubtedly a bit of a pong after time. So, these could be the best alternative. They have an anti-slip gel heel tab, and the hand-linked seamless toe increases comfort across the toes.

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | DIRECTORY | 76

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SUITS

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STOCK WANTED Menswear, childrenswear, ladieswear Fashion wanted, Any Make Any Style, Cancelled Orders Unwanted Stock, Over Stock Best Prices given, CASH PAID EPOS

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Ring: 07944444508 / 07421594958

To advertise please call Sharon Le Goff on +44 (0)1484 846069 or email sharon@ras-publishing.com

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Original Penguin on the next step for the brand. Berlin captured in an instant.

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | LAST ORDERS | 78

LAST ORDERS WITH... MIKAEL SÖDERLINDH Isabella Griffiths speaks to Mikael Söderlindh, founder of Happy Socks, chairman of Stutterheim and founder of The Cords & Co, to learn more about the recent investment by private equity firm Palamon Capital Partners into Happy Socks, the future growth of the brand and the best piece of business advice he’s received. — Place of birth: Sweden Lives: Sweden Twitter: @HappySOfficial Website: www.happysocks.com

What made you and Viktor Tell set up Happy Socks? Happy Socks started in the spring of 2008 when Viktor and I wanted to create a design piece and do something happier with our lives. Socks seemed to be a forgotten item and we couldn’t find the styles that we wanted to wear. We decided to become the playful pioneer of colourful socks. — How would you describe the USP of Happy Socks? We believe in creativity, individuality, selfexpression and having fun. We want to bring unexpected colour and design to an everyday essential, and create a pair of high-quality socks and underwear for every occasion, mindset and style. — Did you anticipate that it would grow into an internationally recognised label? We quite quickly noticed that we filled a soughtafter gap in the market, and that the concept had global potential. Together with our international network of strong distributors, and with the unique sock designs, we started to attract icons such as Snoop Dogg, David LaChapelle and Pharrell Williams’ Billionaire Boys Club, all reaching out and wanting to collaborate with us. — British Palamon recently acquired a majority stake in Happy Socks. What does that mean for the brand’s future? The last two years we successfully accelerated the growth and development of Happy Socks beyond expectations. We have built a super team and transformed the company into a real engine by strengthening our global presence and how we work. I am really proud of what we have accomplished together with Scope and our distribution partners around the world. And how it has made it possible for Happy Socks, and for me and Viktor personally, to take this next step.

We have achieved the best of both worlds: we have a strong new partner and remain significant owners in a great business that we have built and will continue to build for years to come. — You are expanding globally, including a major push in China and the US this year. How important is the UK market for you? The UK is one of our key markets, and it is definitely a growing territory. We’re always looking for suitable concept-store locations. We’re also teaming up with The Beatles on a limited edition Yellow Submarine sock collection this fall. Each pair commemorates the iconic animated film that Viktor’s dad was actually part of creating back in 1968. —

QUICK QUESTIONS What is your personal style? It depends on the occasion; I try to take the custom where I am.

What are the three things on your bucket list? To achieve a great physical and mental challenge. Be the best father possible. See an ice bear. — Tell us something people don’t know about you. I have a big passion for my daily exercise, a long distance run that I do daily. This is my routine where I sort out my day-to-day schedule and process my to-do-list. I have so much energy, and I channel this when running. Without the run my day would be a blur. — What is the best piece of business advice you have ever been given? Work hard as nothing comes for free, and there are no free meals: said to me by my father.

F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N O R TO B O O K A N A P P O I N T M E N T C O N TA C T O U R T R A D E T E A M O N: E: trade@joules.com T: 0 1 8 5 8 4 3 5 2 6 1

Phil Taylor J Brand Sales Manager Email: phil.taylor@jbrandjeans.com www.jbrandjeans.com Tel: 0207 985 1180