ISSUE 198 | JANUARY 2013 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
AS THE WINTER DRAWS IN YOUR INDISPENSIBLE GUIDE TO AUTUMN/WINTER 2013 — STREETWISE SNAPPING THE VERY BEST IN STREET, DENIM AND DIRECTIONAL MENSWEAR
Enjoy the new collection at Moda Fair Birmingham Stand MC 39
JANUARY 2013 | CONTENTS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 07
R E T A I L 14
Online Insider
17
A melting pot of music and fashion
19
The social side of retail
20
Retail Insider
Advice, news and issues online NME’s Rob Hunt on the successful union of brands and bands What’s next for Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest The latest in-store news
G E N T 28
Product news
30
In-season stock
32
Lord of loungewear
35
French fancy
38
Tailor made
Rounding up the key stories this month Red alert Premium loungewear specialist Derek Rose What’s next on the agenda for Vicomte A founder Arthur de Soultrait Doherty, Evans and Stott on joining the northern retail elite
B R A N D
G U I D E
42
In the know
46
Trend hunter
54
The buyers view
The latest developments from the key names in menswear Fine and dandy to forest green Independent retailers on the shows, trends and challenges of a new season
D E N I M
&
S T R E E T
58
Product news
62
In-season stock
64
The Boomerang effect
67
Jacket Required
70
Street life
88
Flip
90
Copenhagen Fashion Week
What’s happening in denim and street Totally tropical Scandinavia’s most recent export The latest signings to the London show Getting wise to winter with this season’s key looks The newest signings to jump on board Brands to watch for the new season
R E G U L A R S 9 10 22
Comment News Interview
95 96 99 102
Society Collective The Bottomley Line Last orders with…
Stuart Trevor
— Front cover: Farrell 020 7078 9509
Oliver Proudlock
JANUARY 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 09
coMMent EDITOR Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — DEPUT Y
EDITOR
Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — CONTRIBUTORS Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — ONLINE
EDITOR
Suzanna Bain suzanna@ras-publishing.com — FASHION
WRITER
Natalie Dawson natalie@ras-publishing.com — SUB
EDITOR
Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — EDITORIAL
AS SISTANT
Carey Whitwam carey.whitwam@ite-exhibitions.com — DESIGNERS Michael Podger michael@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com
After months of meetings, ideas aplenty and a number of sleepless nights, all that is left for me to do is welcome you to the brand new MWB magazine.
Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — SALES
MANAGER
Lauren Cooley lauren@ras-publishing.com — SUB SCRIPTIONS Linzi Pearson linzi.pearson@ite-exhibitions.com — PRODUCTION
DIRECTOR
Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — COMMERCIAL
DIRECTOR
Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — MARKETING
DIRECTOR
Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — MANAGING
DIRECTOR
Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —
MWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2013 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint Ltd 01482 652323 —
new Year is significant with fresh starts, ideas and outlooks, which is why we decided there was no better month than January to unveil the next chapter of MWB. When the team and I began the initial planning stages of the redesign, one thing we were in firm agreement about was the need to put the focus on independents, the issues they face, the news they need and the brands they want to see. In the last year since joining MWB, I’ve spoken to many of you either face-to-face, over the phone and, most recently, on Twitter, and each idea and comment you’ve offered has been taken on board. One retailer I spoke to recently, for example, felt he was still in the dark when it came to the phenomenon that is social media and wanted to know how he could really connect to his existing and potentially new customer base. With this in mind, and safe in the knowledge that this indie isn’t alone, social media specialist Warren Knight explains the next stages of Facebook, Twitter and new kid on the block Pinterest. Online is still an area many of us are still finding our feet in, so a welcome addition to the MWB pages is Online Insider – a monthly section dedicated to all things internet-related, from m-commerce strategies to websites deserving of a bookmark. Turn the page and you’ll find another new addition in the form of Retail Insider, a round-up of the celebrations, store openings, news and views throughout the UK menswear retail sector. Some of your favourites remain, with the popular Bottomley Line offering a light-hearted view of the industry, as well as our usual mix of profiles, interviews, previews and reviews. Your comments are, as always, welcome, so be sure to email or tweet the team @mwbmagazine. That said, I would like to wish you all a happy New Year, a successful buying season and a prosperous 2013. Victoria Jackson editor
A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB, CWB and Footwear & Fashion Extras. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.
JANUARY 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 10
N E W S
TAX CHANGES OFFER SOME LIGHT R ELIEF
BET T ER X M A S DESPITE SA LE CONCERN S Retailers across the UK experienced an increase in sales this Christmas in comparison to last year, a MWB straw poll has revealed. Indies across the UK recorded year-on-year increases in pre-Christmas sales, with those with a strong online presence coming out on top. “We’re well up on last year’s Christmas,” says Blake Norton, director of Wilmslow and Bolton retailer Norton Barrie. “This is mainly because our online presence is a lot stronger – I’m going to push our online retail arm really hard next year.” The biggest talking point throughout the industry, however, remained the concerns over ever-earlier sales and heavy online discounting, with a growing number of indies now looking to the brands they stock to that actively monitor mark-downs. Key labels including Lyle & Scott keep a tight watch on discounting throughout the year in order to maximise full price sales. “If brands started to police discounting better, it would be a huge help to us all,” says Norton. “I’ve recently had phone calls with two brands, one who asked for their products only to go into sale in traditional sale periods, and the other to assure me they are monitoring retailers that stock their brand and have gone into sale before Christmas. They’re promising me it will be addressed.” Many high street retailers went into sale as early as November, cutting prices by as much as 50 per cent to drum up business. St Helens indie Chris O’Dea, owner of premium store O’Ds, discounted poorly performing labels before the traditional Christmas sales period in a bid to attract customers in store, without marking down stronger selling labels. “Online discounting definitely has an effect on when we head into sale,” says O’Dea. “People are switched on to price change so we’ve had to compete. But, in the same respect, we’ve had brands that we’re not going forward with, which we put on offer before Christmas, so its hard to complain about what others do.” A record £3bn worth of retail sales were made over the Christmas period, with the latest high street figures released revealing increases across the board. High street chain Next posted a 3.9 per cent increase, while John Lewis revealed a yearon-year increase of 14.8 per cent. —
The British Property Federation (BFP) has welcomed the news that all newly built, commercial property completed between 1 October 2013 and 30 September 2016 will be free from empty property rates for the first 18 months. The news, which came in the Chancellor’s statement for the property industry before Christmas, was described by the BFP as a “good result”. “Avoiding further taxation and winning targeted empty rates, concessions was perhaps as much as we could have hoped for,” says Liz Peace, chief executive of the BFP. “The good result comes after months of hard work behind the scenes with MPs and the Treasury.” Explaining the extension of the empty rates grace period, the Chancellor admitted that empty rates had “blighted development” of the British high street. —
LEE JU BBS JOINS PET ER W ERT H T EA M Contemporary menswear brand Peter Werth is adding to its sales team with the appointment of Lee Jubb. Jubb’s experience to date includes seven years with Paul Smith, where he managed footwear and the PS collection, building strong relationships with key retailers such as Selfridges and Mr Porter. He will manage the growth of the Peter Werth brand in a more premium environment in the South and Midlands. Jubb’s appointment comes as the brand engages in several high-profile projects aimed at defining Peter Werth’s position in the market. “Lee possesses the level of experience required to communicate the brand’s proposition and positioning to our target audience,” says Paul Batista, head of sales at Peter Werth. —
JANUARY 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 11
IN BRIEF
M EN’ S COLLECTION FOR THE CAMBRIDGE SATCHEL COMPANY
G- STA R R AW A PPOIN TS N EW CREATIVE DIRECTOR
The Cambridge Satchel Company has revealed its first menswear collection. The brand’s range was unveiled to the market at the Pitti Uomo trade exhibition in Florence and comes in response to demand from retailers for a concise collection that shows more male elements. The a/w 13 line will consist of 75 pieces in a variety of styles and sizes, and will see the introduction of new colours such as pale grey, Monaco blue and dark bottle green. “We are thrilled to be launching our first men’s range,” says Julie Deane, founder of The Cambridge Satchel Company. The collection looks amazing, and I know the bags will be extremely popular.” —
Peter Hamelinck has been appointed creative director at denim brand G-Star Raw. Hamelinck was former creative director at Havas Worldwide Amsterdam, where he was responsible for the recent Tweetphony, Freo Loan League and award-winning Twitter Race projects. He began his fashion career as an editorial photographer and art director, before spending more than a decade as an advertising and social media creative. Hamelinck’s international career has spanned BBDO, Y&R and StrawberryFrog, for clients including Citroen, Foot Locker and IKEA. During this period he won several major advertising awards. “At G-Star, I will combine all my personal interests – from fashion and photography to design and sculpture – for a cool creative company,” he says. —
MADE BY GREAT BRITONS Debenhams has announced plans to stock more clothing made exclusively in the UK, creating a bespoke brand called Made by Great Britons. The retailer is calling on UK suppliers to get in touch to help revitalise the British fashion industry. “We have some of the best clothing manufacturers in the world and we want to see their products in our stores. As we’re proud of where they’re produced, our new brand will appear on anything we source from the UK,” says Suzanne Harlow, group trading director at Debenhams. “We’re calling on new manufacturers to come forward. If you have innovative, exciting garments and an excellent standard of factory, we want to hear from you.” — PELHAM IN TED BAKER LICENCE DEAL Luggage group Pelham Leather Goods has entered into a worldwide licence agreement for the design, manufacture and selling of Ted Baker Luggage. The debut range, which includes styles for both men and women, will be presented in August and launch officially for s/s 14. Ray Kelvin, founder of Ted Baker, says, “The development with Pelham is another example of Ted Baker’s ability to turn its hand to all areas of product design, and we intend to make Ted Baker an important player in the luggage industry.” — AROXTA.COM LAUNCHES Newly launched website aroxta.com is targeting UK and European fashion brands looking to expand into the Asian market. The website, which promotes and sells designer labels directly to consumers, supports designers on their expansion into Asia with PR, marketing and an established sales portal. Brands also have the opportunity to become involved in pop-up stores organised in Hong Kong and throughout Asia, and can potentially gain assistance with the cost of exhibiting at trade shows. —
CHR ISTOPHER R A EBU R N J OIN S VICTORINOX
HENRI LLOYD CO-FOUNDER DIES
Victorinox, creator of Original Swiss Army Knife, has appointed Christopher Raeburn as artistic director for its fashion division. Raeburn will continue to design and manage his namesake label in addition to his role at Victorinox. Raeburn first worked for Victorinox in 2009, when he was commissioned to create a Remade in Switzerland capsule collection for a/w 11. “I’ve taken pride in the work achieved with Victorinox through Remade in Switzerland and the Protect collections; it has been an honour to be aligned with such a well-respected company and so many skilled individuals,” says Raeburn. “Now I see an opportunity to push Victorinox fashion to the next level.” —
Henry Strzelecki, co-founder of British label Henri Lloyd, has passed away at the age of 87. Launching the lifestyle label in 1963, Strzelecki joined forces with business partner Angus Lloyd to create products synonymous with sailing, with Francis Chichester wearing one of the brand’s durable outerwear designs on his round-the-world voyage in 1967. “The spirit of Henri Strzelecki lives on in the tradition of his business – one whose products are appreciated by all who now go properly clothed for their leisure pursuits,” says a representative for the brand. Strzelecki died on Boxing Day and is survived by sons Paul and Martin, joint chief executives of Henri-Lloyd Limited. —
FASHION EAST FOUNDER AMONG NEW YEAR HONOURS LIST Fashion East director Lulu Kennedy and shoe designer Emma Hope have been awarded for their fashion achievements in the Queen’s New Year Honours List. Other industry names to feature include John James Fenwick (deputy chairman of the department store group), Caryn Franklin and Christopher Inman (honorary treasurer of the British Fashion Council). Fashion designer Stella McCartney and the founders of jewellery brand Tatty Devine have also been recognised, along with Biba founder Barbara Hulanicki and Links of London jewellery team John Ayton and Annoushka Ducas. —
JANUARY 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 12
IN BRIEF
PEACOCKS EYES IN T ER N AT ION A L EX PA N SION
NORTHERN LIGHTS AGENCY WELCOMES MARSHALL ARTIST
High street chain Peacocks, which was rescued out of administration by Edinburgh Woollen Mill last year, is to expand overseas, following positive sales results. The retail group is planning to launch into the German market by opening five trial stores over the next 12 months, as well as rolling out plans to re-enter the Middle East with a partner at the end of this year. Owner Philip Day revealed the group aims to open 200 stores internationally, alongside 350 new retail store openings in the UK, increasing its portfolio from 450 to 800 nationwide. Peacocks was forced to close its stores in the Middle East when it fell into administration in January last year. —
Menswear agency Northern Lights sees the new addition of streetwear label Marshall Artist to its brand portfolio, managing its distribution in Birmingham, the North and Scotland. Over the next season, the brand is looking to revise its pricing structure and market alignment, with the aim of “sitting next to brands such as Paul Smith Jeans, Barbour and Woolrich,” says sales agent Tom Summerfield. “We are looking to open the reach of the brand to retailers with the correct adjacencies in the mid-to-premium level of the market,” he continues. “The brand is now also offering a ‘three mark-up’ to retailers, while ensuring that there is an entry price-point item in each category to help drive volume in stores.” —
JOCKEY LAUNCHES TRANSACTIONAL WEBSITE Underwear brand Jockey has launched it’s first UK website. The transactional site carries all Jockey’s collections, including the USA Originals range, International Collection, Big & Tall, nightwear and accessories. It also features a “style finder” feature, to help customers select the product and style they want. “We’ve been working hard to create the best website experience for our customers, and we are pleased to be able to offer them direct access to the products,” says Ruth Stevens, marketing manager at Jockey. — CHINA TO BECOME LARGEST RETAIL MARKET China will become the world’s largest retail market in the next three years, according to Global advisory company Price Waterhouse Coopers (PwC). The group predicts the Chinese market is to grow 10 per cent per annum through to 2016 and will take over the US as the world’s biggest market. It is expected that Chinese consumers will continue to drive global luxury market growth in 2013 and onwards. China’s online retailing is set to enjoy exceptional growth, accounting for a 23.4 per cent share of global business-to-consumer e-commerce sales in 2016, up from 9.9 percent in 2012. — SCOTT MORRISON PROMOTED AT DIESEL Diesel has promoted Scott Morrison to marketing and commercial director for the UK. Morrison, who was previously marketing director for the international lifestyle and fashion brand, is now assuming control of Diesel's sales function. He will be managing a team of 30, reporting into UK and Nordic MD Jonny Hewlett. Morrison has been working in advertising, marketing and business for more than 15 years. —
JACKSON DISTRIBUT ION L AU N CHES APPA REL LINE
“ SM A LL BU SIN ESS SAT U R DAY ” CONCEPT COULD HELP UK
Jackson Distribution, the UK and European distributor for Iron Fist and Abbey Dawn, has launched its own lifestyle line, Brakeburn. Established last year, the brand has been designed to cater for the street, cycle and board sports consumer and is launching into the wholesale market for a/w 13. Comprising both apparel and footwear, highlights of the initial collection include lightweight 4oz shoe options and collaborations with graphic artists such as Ruth Jackson. Meanwhile, the label will welcome on board brand ambassadors from cycling and street culture going into the new season. Buyers can find Jackson Distribution on show at next month’s Moda exhibition. —
Shadow business secretary Chuka Umunna is calling for Britain to adopt the US initiative, Small Business Saturday, designed to encourage shoppers to use small local shops. Taking place during the weekend of Thanksgiving in the US since 2010, figures show that £3.4bn was spent in independents on the day in 2012. Umunna has suggested 7 December for the UK version, writing to card issuer American Express – which sponsors the concept – to ask if it could be brought to Britain. “Establishing the initiative in the UK would provide a simple and effective way to celebrate local stores and encourage more people to buy from them on one of the busiest shopping days of the year,” he says. —
QUIKSILVER APPOINTS ANDY MOONEY AS CEO Quiksilver has appointed Andy Mooney president and CEO, succeeding the brand’s co-founder, Bob McKnight, who has become executive chairman. Mooney joins Quiksilver from Disney, where he served as chairman of consumer products, prior to which he worked in a variety of senior positions at Nike. “Andy has served in a variety of senior leadership roles with two of the largest, most recognised and well-respected companies in the world,” says James G Ellis, presiding director, Quiksilver. “He is an experienced senior executive with a proven background building consumer brands, developing worldwide marketing strategies and driving global growth.” —
whErE FashioN ComEs TogEThEr
gent
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footwear
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woman
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lingerie & swimwear
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17-19 February 2013, NEC Birmingham To reserve a stand call +44 (0)1484 846069 Find out more and register for your visit at moda-uk.co.uk
accessories
JANUARY 2013 | RETAIL | ADVICE | 14
ONLINe INSIdeR Advice, news and issues online.
ADVICE: hOW TO ImPLemeNT AN m-COmmeRCe STRATegy
OmId RezvANI is the director of mobile commerce solutions at eCommera and can be contact via fieldworksmarketing.co.uk
Before developing an m-commerce strategy, retailers and brand owners need to define their goals for mobile commerce based on an understanding that mobile is not just another discrete sales and marketing channel, but the glue that can bind together their overall multichannel strategy. Retailers should consider taking a more customer-centric view and use both mobile websites and mobile apps to take their customers on a journey from discovery to loyalty. In order to attract the attention of new customers, you will need a search engine friendly website that is fully optimised for mobile devices, so prospective customers can quickly and effortlessly browse and access content on almost any device. A mobile app can gain insight into offline customer shopping behaviour, where retailers know which customers visit which store locations on which occasions. You will also learn which products a customer is interested in while in-store but does not purchase and why. When you have fully understood how mobile will help your customers engage with your brand, you need to ensure you have the right technology to support your strategy. Some retailers will be able to address and manage these tasks internally. However, many will seek to work with an external partner that has the expertise and experience to deliver a fully managed mobile commerce service. You should consider an app that can be used by customers on an extensive range of mobile devices and platforms, from iPhones and iPads to Android tablets and smartphones, and one that can be easily integrated with their existing e-commerce platform. Mobile devices can fill the cross-channel data gap, allowing you to tie in online and offline behaviour to get a fuller picture of the customer. From that data, you can extract actionable insights, which will enable you to interact better with consumers, provide them with promotions, special offers and discounts according to their shopping habits in-store or online, and most importantly, offer a seamless customer experience across multiple channels. —
WeB WATCh
WWW.TOgSANdCLOgS.COm Launched in 2010, Togs + Clogs is a cleverly curated mix of contemporary, niche menswear names. With a simple, easy-to-navigate layout, product is key and, since its launch, the website has grown into a lifestyle destination, with books, interior products and even vintage bicycles on offer. Photography is fundamental to the site’s social media strategy, with Pinterest, Instagram and Tumblr showcasing the brand’s – and shoppers’ – cool and quirky tastes. —
NeWS
CONTINUED SUCCESS FOR ASOS WWW.ASOS.COM E-tailer Asos is reporting strong trading figures for its first quarter, with UK retail sales up by 24 per cent against the same period the year before. US retail sales increased by 57 per cent, while internationally they rose by 34 per cent, contributing to a 30 per cent increase in total retail sales. The online fashion retailer is also reporting a 30 per cent rise in total group revenue for Q1, compared to the same quarter the year before, with the figure including retail sales, delivery receipts and third party revenues. — SHOPSTYLE BOOSTS EXECUTIVE TEAM WWW.SHOPSTYLE.CO.UK Fashion shopping site ShopStyle.co.uk has appointed a new editorial team to support its UK business. The move follows the online retailer’s successful website relaunch at the end of last year. Joanna Wells will be responsible for directing the brand’s marketing activity in the UK, France and Germany. Sian O’Flaherty, meanwhile, joins ShopStyle from Lyst.com, where she worked as style editor and partnership manager. O’Flaherty is joined by Alex Stoll, who comes to the UK team from the German division of the company and will be handling partnerships and events in UK. Sally Hillman has also joined the UK ShopStyle team, as blog editor. Hillman is tasked with creating a blog that contains compelling content to increase traffic, time spent on site and drive sales. —
JANUARY 2013 | RETAIL | REPORT | 17
A meLTINg POT OF muSIC ANd STyLe Next month sees the 50th anniversary of the legendary Nme Awards. mWB speaks to Rob hunt, IPC men & music’s head of creative media, about how the worlds of music and fashion work together. —
ever since “the teenager” was invented in the 50s, fashion has been inexorably tied to the current music scene. Labels and designers have looked to music idols for inspiration, wooed them with their latest ranges and looked to get that all important photo with their label, or motif just peeking through on that front-page photo. Cultural historians can define the decades by their music and fashion trends, and fashion labels have built their heritage with the help of iconic band tie-ups. The 50s teddy boys emulating Jerry Lee Lewis’ big jackets and Elvis’ Blue Suede shoes in the 50s
had to have Brylcreem to get the look. In the 60s, Ossie Clark made his label famous by designing costumes for The Beatles and The Rolling Stones, while high street labels such as Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne became the labels to be seen in at the dance halls. The late 70s saw the revival of the mod movement and the development of two-tone, with Fred Perry draping themselves all over The Jam and The Specials. The 80s pop culture intrinsically linked the worlds of pop bands and labels. While Fila, Sergio Tacchini and Adidas had the sports stars, including John McEnroe and
Bjorn Borg, the London New Romantic scene made stars of Boy George and Spandau Ballet. Designers, from Vivienne Westwood to David Holah, were as much a part of the scene as the bands and clubs such as the legendary Blitz were. In the mid-90s, Britpop bands, for example Blur and Oasis, started to bring vintage sportswear back onto the dance floor, and the rave scene at the start of the decade influenced the launch of brands such as Religion and Global Hypercolour. The noughties, meanwhile, saw the more established labels looking to musicians to be their brand ambassadors, ie JLo and D&G, Rihanna and >>>
JANUARY 2013 | RETAIL | REPORT | 18
Armani, and musicians blurring the lines and bringing out their own fashion ranges, with examples being Liam Gallagher’s Pretty Green and Jay Z’s Rocawear. NME has been at the cutting edge of music for over 60 years, and has worked with labels and bands on commercial projects for some time. Many labels have built relationships with bands, and there are music and fashion events every week. But, the struggle that most have is how to raise their heads above the parapet and achieve recognition, publicity and stand out in such a crowded market. Rob Hunt, head of creative media at IPC’s Men & Music, is the man charged with creating successful partnerships between brands and relevant artists. “Having had several successful campaigns in the last few years that have taught us valuable lessons, we can now offer a one-stop shop for labels looking to work with bands or use music as a promotional tool,” says Hunt. In the past 12 months, NME has worked with the likes of Converse to amplify its partnership with 100 Club on Oxford Street. It has also helped create unique online content for Original Penguin, deliver Boxfresh’s NME Awards sponsorship of Best Live Band, and assisted Mulberry in promoting its work at the Coachella festival in the US. So, what exactly were the lessons learnt? Hunt explains how the devil is in the detail: 1. Try and tie down as much as you can contractually and don’t assume anything. There are a lot of people involved in every deal. The label, the writers, the band’s management, agents and record label and, obviously, the band themselves.
2. Most elements of a campaign have to be approved by all parties, so make sure you have everything in writing and that everyone’s happy with the deal. Give yourself enough time to deliver everything – things can be turned around incredibly quickly, but be realisitic. Most campaigns have similar essential needs and many have rights that need signing off beforehand – venues, bands, filming, recording, photography all need to be thought through and planned meticulously. 3. Amplify, amplify, amplify – it’s great creating a cool event in Hoxton that “everyone” is talking about, but who actually is “everyone”? Is it a few hipsters with a couple of thousand twitter followers, or do you need national exposure to help your regional sales team promote your marketing campaign. Working with national media owners such as NME means you are guaranteed the exposure, and aren’t waiting with fingers crossed to see if a blogger who turned up at the end of the gig for five minutes deigned to drop you a mention, and possibly even mentioned your brand, rather than only the artist. 4. Don’t just badge, add something – music fans are savvy enough to know that brands can help bring them music and create cool events that may be beyond the financial reach of the traditional music industry. However, you may as well throw your money into the street if you don’t add something uniquely you to the event, whether it’s sampling, on-the-spot prizes via on-stage tweets, photo booths driving punters to your Facebook page or simply decent branding in venue. 5. Don’t impinge on the natural creativity – you’re working with creative people, so utilise their knowledge and creative skills. They will know their fans better than you, and will know what they will or won’t want to see. Ask for their input from the start and be open about what you want from the partnership. Remember that it should be a proper partnership with both sides benefitting. The band should not only increase their bank balance, but their exposure and reach, too.
One brand to have done such is British lifestyle label Original Penguin, which has previously worked with NME to create a campaign – Original Penguin Plugged In – to engage its music-loving audience. “Like NME, Original Penguin was born in the 50s and, throughout the brand history, has been favoured by artists as diverse as Frank Sinatra and Arctic Monkeys,” says Viv Davis, head of marketing, Original Penguin. “It was a natural fit for us to support the launch of our new music platform with a sponsorship campaign of the NME 60 year’s celebrations,” she continues. “NME worked with us to create a campaign that gave us long-term exposure on their digital channel backed up with editorial support within the magazine and across social media platforms. “Their access to relevant artists throughout the festival season provided us with unique video content and competition prizes, enabling us to engage with our social media followers regularly and with content that they reacted to and talked about. The videos were hosted within our site and then targeted from NME.com to drive traffic and awareness to www.originalpenguinpluggedin.com.” —
The 2013 NME Awards will be held at The Troxy in East London on 27 February, and there are still opportunities for fashion partnerships. For more information please call Rob on 020 3148 6721 or email rob_hunt@ipcmedia.com.
JANUARY 2013 | RETAIL | REPORT | 19
The SOCIAL SIde OF ReTAIL Ahead of his seminar at next month’s moda exhibition, social media expert Warren knight speaks to mWB about how independent retailers can discover and develop an online voice, creating interaction with consumers through the web. —
For retailers, there is nothing better than using social media to maximise sales and build an online voice based on your business. We are now at the start of 2013, and it’s time to evaluate your online success and change what has been hindering you from becoming more successful. Social media is now a huge part of every business’ online marketing strategy, however using social media as your only marketing outlet will not work. You need to understand your target market and where they are most likely to hang out. Here is a breakdown of where Facebook, Twitter and the new kid on the block, Pinterest, are currently at.
FACeBOOk As the largest social network in the world, Facebook has over one billion users, 75 per cent of which have “liked” a brand’s Facebook page. If you, as a retailer, don’t have a Facebook business page, you are going to be missing out on potential clients. A “share” inside Facebook is now worth £2.60. This means that every time one of your followers shares your post with their community, you are earning money from it one way or another. As you may know, Facebook has added a lot of new features this year that will be beneficial to retailers, including: • Facebook Store – you can sell inside Facebook for free if you have less than 2,000 “likes” on your Facebook page. Use Payvment to help you install a store on your Facebook page. • Facebook Timeline – this is another way to promote your business and create milestones where your fans can see when you achieved something in your business. • Sharing and pinning posts – you can highlight a post to make it a key feature on your page and pin a post to put it at the top of your page for a week.
TWITTeR Twitter is the second largest social network in the world, and has 140 million users. Twitter sees 14 million tweets every three days, and the value of a share to a brand is worth £21.04 with peer-to-peer marketing. It is a good network to be involved in and is great for: • Building an online voice – you must be careful with Twitter, as once something has been posted from your account, it will have been read by at least one person, regardless of that tweet being deleted within minutes. • Tuning into your target audience – using Twitter will allow you to tune into your target audience by using the search bar and entering in key phrases. Don’t forget to put your phrase in quotation marks to make sure you will pick up the right tweets, eg “social media”.
PINTeReST Pinterest is the newest network, and has only been around for two years. At 10.4 million users, it is the fastest-growing social media site in history, and has been experiencing a whopping 400 per cent month-over-month growth. There have even been stories of businesses doubling their revenue after joining Pinterest. It is just behind Google in the referral traffic game for e-commerce sites, making it almost impossible to avoid. Why should your business be on Pinterest? Pinterest users who shop online follow around 9.3 retailers, whereas Facebook users follow 6.9 retailers and Twitter users follow 8.5 retailers. This is because Pinterest is more visually pleasing, and people are more likely to connect with images and video’s over text. Pinterest referrals spend 70 per cent more money than visitors directed from non-social channels. Shoppers recommended by Pinterest are 10 per cent more likely to make a purchase than visitors who arrive from other social networks including Facebook and Twitter, and will also spend 10 per cent more. You can sell your products on pinterest using Pin2Sell. —
T H R E E ST E PS TO SO C I A L M E D I A SU CC E S S I have been working with start-ups and small businesses for many years, helping them build strong foundations, a clear unique selling proposition (USP) and a defined customer acquisition journey. Yes, there are a lot of successful businesses that spend a lot of time on their social media – this is because they have a complete marketing mix strategy. For your business to be a social success, you should follow these three simple steps: 1. Use social media as customer service By this I mean connect with your customers on Facebook and Twitter, where they feel comfortable to give you their feedback on your products and services. Should you receive negative feedback, deal with it immediately. If your followers can see you are offering great customer service, they will be a frequent buyer. 2. Be consistent Something I see quite often is how inconsistent brands are across their multiple social networks. Keep your online voice the same, along with the images and content you are using. 3. Have a strategy What works on Facebook will not work on Twitter, or even Google+. I suggest one post per day on Facebook and Google+, so you don’t avoid losing fans. Twitter is slightly different. My suggestion is to post five times between 9am and 5pm during the week and find out your most optimum time using Timely. —
WARReN kNIghT SOCIAL MEDIA EXPERT WWW.WARRENKNIGHT.CO.UK EMAIL WARREN@WARRENKNIGHT.CO.UK TWITTER @WVRKNIGHT
JANUARY 2013 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 20
ReTAIL INSIdeR The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry —
VIEWPOINT TONy SymONS is the owner of Rogers menswear in herne Bay, kent, and is a member of FAB and ImC.
PERCIVA L STANDS STILL W IT H FIR ST STA N DA LON E Following on from two successful pop-up store openings over the past 12 months, menswear label Percival has laid roots in London’s Soho with its first standalone store. Located on Berwick Street, the shop houses the label’s complete collection, as well as its showroom and fully functioning studio. In collaboration with The Sculpture House (a newly launched programme that commissions emerging sculptors to produce limited-edition pieces of furniture), the store also incorporates a piece of concrete created by artist Alex Chinneck set into its parquet floors and carved to mimic a Persian rug. Established in 2009 by designers Chris Grove, Luke Stenzhorn, Olivia Hegarty and accounts director Jacob Sorkin, the brand is manufactured in the UK where possible, and puts emphasis on British-made quality workmanship and clever detailing. Grove, Stenzhorn, Hegarty and Sorkin welcomed a host of names to its launch party last month, including TV presenters George Lamb and Rick Edwards, hairdresser James Brown and Radio One DJ Nick Grimshaw. — IN BRIeF THE RIGHT ROUTE Street and skate label Route One has made its latest expansion with a new standalone store in Southampton’s busy retail landscape. Measuring 1,700 sq ft, the shop is located in the city’s Marlands Shopping Centre, and hosts a large selection of skate decks, as well as offering labels such as Vans, Supra and Nike. The store also has a series of iPads to hand, allowing shoppers to be interactive with the latest Route One videos, interviews and exclusive in-store offers. —
JACK & JONES CONTINUES UK EXPANSION Lifestyle label Jack & Jones is to launch its latest standalone store in the North’s newest shopping destination, Trinity Leeds. Opening its doors on March 21, the shop follows recent lettings in Exeter, Carlisle and Swansea as part of its store rollout programme.“The new store at Trinity Leeds will open the brand to an estimated 18.2m people travelling through nearby train and bus stations, as well as extending its customer base in the fourth largest city,” says Kevin Simms, retail director, CBRE – Jack & Jones’ real estate management. —
One of the main dangers of being an independent retailer is that you can get stuck in your ways. how do you know you are still doing the right things in your shop? — In 1983, I began working with Roger Wisbey, who had started the business in 1967, and I took it over from him when he retired in 1999. Retail as a whole has had to deal with more challenging times since 2007, and I don’t think we’re out of the woods yet. To compensate for reduced menswear sales, I’ve had to move into areas that, a few years ago, I probably wouldn’t have thought about. At the end of 2011, I got into schoolwear when a retailing neighbour of mine, who specialised in it, was set to retire. I am now the official supplier to Herne Bay High School, which has around 1,500 girl and boy pupils. I can’t say it hasn’t been without its stresses – predicting the sizes of children is a particular problem – but my assistant manager, Carrie Parsons, has done a brilliant job in getting it all together. The schoolwear business proved vital to us in what was a difficult year. Thanks to the school uniforms, one day during the Easter holiday proved to be my second best trading day ever. And even that was topped during the last week of August, when the schoolwear gave me the best day I’ve had since I’ve been in the business. In the current circumstances, I am more pleased than ever to be part of FAB, which I joined as soon as I took over the shop all those years ago for its advantageous credit card rates, and of the IMC buying group, which continues to source great product available only to IMC members. In these changing times, it’s good to be able to rely on some things. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk
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SHOPPED: FOuNdATION meNSWeAR how has this month gone? We opened in Glasgow’s West End at the end of October 2012, and it’s taking time for people to get to know we’re here. There hasn’t been a menswear shop in the West End for a few years. A lot of the Christmas trade is women buying for men, but we’re only just getting discovered, so we had a pretty flat Christmas. What challenges have you faced this month? Christmas trade seems to be happening increasingly later as people hold out for sales, and department stores are killing trade with their “discount weekends” before Christmas. I had NeIL LeveR, CO-OWNER, FOUNDATION a business – also called Foundation Menswear – in a MENSWEAR, GLASGOW small town called Gourock for some 27 years before this. But, in Glasgow, I’m noticing the discounting culture a lot more. And brands such as Pretty Green and Fred Perry, which we carry, also have their own stores here, meaning greater competition. In future, I’ll be buying to have a bigger point of difference. What brands have performed well for you? The best by far have been Peter Werth and Loake. The whole look has gone smarter. I was expecting Peter Werth to be my entry level product offer, but it’s been flying. And Loake is the same with the tan brogue shoes, boots and desert boots. Any particular trends that are working well in-store? It’s now about the “Shoreditch” look that we started seeing a couple of years ago. It’s more about key pieces and less about branded items. If a jacket looks good, people will buy it, it seems, regardless of the branding. —
IN FOCUS: ANThem
INDIVIDUA LISM X HACKET T LONDON
ANThem – 10-12 CALveRT AveNue, ShORedITCh, LONdON e2
eSTABLIShed: 2010 BRANdS ON OFFeR: CLUB MONACO, KLAXTON HOWL, A LONG TIME GONE, TEN C, OUR LEGACY, REMI RELIEF, MOSCOT, FOLK
Word is finally getting out about Anthem, the store opened by Simon Spiteri and his his partner, Jeremy Baron, just 14 months ago. Spiteri, of course, was famed a few years back for putting Liberty’s menswear department on the style map, and it’s his genuine eye for detail and design that sets him apart. Indeed, some customers walk in and think it’s a monobrand store because of the way collections have been bought. He basically buys the killer pieces from each collection, including Comme des Garçons, Folk, Oliver Spencer, Bellerose and Bleu de Paname. There is also new addition Club Monaco Made in USA, and a whole host of great Japanese products from labels such as 45 RPM and Kapital. The shop has real character with exposed brickwork, timber features and odd “curiosity objects”, which Spiteri picks up on his travels. There is also now a tent area in the back of the shop, which is used as a showcase, featuring different looks from the collections. It’s going to be revolving and, for the summer, the plan is to turn it into a tiki bar area and, next winter, a log cabin effect. It’s a retail theatre, which is often sadly missing elsewhere, and it’s definitely not just for the Shoreditch Set. —
As one of the blogosphere’s most influential menswear sites to date, it’s no surprise Individualism is taking over the sector one collaboration at a time. Most recently, Hackett London joined forces with the sartorial collective to host its latest store opening in Spitalfields. Guests were treated to haircuts and traditional shaves by in-house barbers Murdock London, while seamstresses monogrammed white handkerchiefs on the ground floor. Music, meanwhile, was provided by the Bakery Band – a collective of 10 musicians creating an eclectic melting pot of sounds. Created by Mr Porter video style editor Aaron Christian in 2008, Individualism now includes various photographers, writers, stylists and videographers – with the blog collaborating with the likes of Asos, Diesel, MCM and River Island. — IN BRIeF FIRST BIRTHDAY CELEBRATIONS FOR STUDIO 148 Menswear boutique Studio 148 celebrated its first birthday with an all-day in-store event last month. Welcoming customers, friends and family to the store – located in Teddington, Middlesex – Studio 148’s first year in business was toasted with champagne and wine, as well as complimentary cupcakes. Shoppers were also treated to 20 per cent off everything in-store from 10am to 7.30pm, including knitwear, chinos, outerwear and accessories such as cuff links, silk ties and gloves. —
JANUARY 2013 | INTERVIEW | 22
INTeRvIeW
STuART TRevOR Older and wiser, Stuart Trevor is the man who first gave us All Saints, and he is now doing it all over again with his wife, kait, and their Bolongaro Trevor brand. New production and distribution is in place, and funding has seen a succession of recent shop openings. Tom Bottomley finds out more. — Tom Bottomley: The business has changed over the past few years. Where are you at now? Stuart Trevor: A lot has been happening recently. We had a predominantly wholesale business that grew to £3m of sales from nothing in just a couple of years. But, it was the height of the recession, and I had a bank that wasn’t able to act quickly enough to support that level of growth. We put up four properties – flats I owned in Hackney – as collateral. All we wanted was an import loan to take in our orders. We had orders for a/w 11 of around £1.4m, including the likes of Selfridges, John Anthony, Choice, and even Fred Segal in LA and Atrium in New York – all the best stores. It was being signed over to invoice finance at the bank and all they had to do was finance it for around a month while it left the factory, went to the warehouse and then distributed to the customers. But it took them nine months to come up with the funding, by which time it was too late. It was a nightmare. So we’ve had to totally restructure the business. TB: how did you manage that? ST: Fortunately, I managed my way out of it, but I had to sell some of the flats and pay off the bank. It cost me a lot of money, but we knew we had something that was worth pursuing. We’ve been in a recession for around four or five years and, if we can be going out to exhibitions and writing £50,000
FOuNdeR ANd dIReCTOR BOLONgARO TRevOR, hOxTON TRAdINg LTd
JANUARY 2013 | INTERVIEW | 23
orders with the best stores in the world, we must be doing something right. We realised the need to get it right and deliver on time. I couldn’t let it go. We knew what we had done with All Saints, and I know this is better because people tell me so. The product is better, it’s easier to wear and it’s more commercial. We’ve had an incredible six months. TB: So what restructuring has taken place? ST: Once I had sold the flats and paid off the bank, I signed over the production, distribution, logistics, warehousing and invoicing to a production company called The Fielding Group, based in Dunstable and run by Michael Wolff. I met him over a year ago. He’s well-known in the trade and the company is one of the biggest suppliers to Next, Marks & Spencer and BHS – the big multiples. But it also makes beautiful, quality tailoring and shirts. If I go out now and take £10m worth of wholesale orders, I can get it produced. To them, the more I write, the easier it is. Obviously, that’s not going to happen immediately, but it will happen. TB: Have you brought in any new staff? ST: John Robertshaw has joined me from Selfridges, but he worked for me in the All Saints days, running the old shop in Leeds. He was there from the start when we opened a tiny unit in the Victoria Quarter, which was taking around £15,000 a week in 2002. By 2004, we had a double unit around the corner that was doing £70,000 a week. It was unbelievable. He was instrumental in running the number one store in the company, and it’s great to be working with him again. He left and went to Firetrap, and set up the concessions for them. You need a good team on board in this business. I’ve also drafted in Colin Clarke to head up our new wholesale operation in Hoxton, too. TB: Where has the funding come from? ST: Subsequent to finalising the outsourcing with The Fielding Group, we had been approached by private equity firms, but I didn’t like what they were offering. There was too much risk, and I’ve been there before with All Saints. A director at one of the
private equity firms we had been talking to actually left them to join me. He was convinced he could get the funding on his own. It’s pretty unbelievable, but he obviously believed in what he saw. As far as he’s concerned, he’s never done anything but back winners in the past, so he went out and raised the money like he said, and also invested himself. It took around three months, but that’s where the retail rollout has come from. The business plan I put together shows we wanted to do wholesale, online and retail with the idea that we would open six to 10 retail stores. TB: So how many shops have you opened now? ST: Over seven months, we’ve reached six stores. The one in Westbourne Grove, off the corner of Portobello Road, opened in August 2012. It’s incredible, like the old days. You get tourists on Friday and Saturday mornings banging on the door at 8.30am looking to buy stuff. During the week, you get the locals, who are generally pretty wealthy, coming in and having a good shop, and they seem to love the brand and clothing. Having a store like that makes you believe there is going to be a bright future. Retail isn’t easy. I don’t think anyone is having it easy right now, but you open a store like this – in the right area with a buzz about the place – and it gives you faith. The shop does look beautiful. It was a horrible white shell, but we stained the floor and wallpapered with old Victorian newspapers, and it began to feel unique. I wanted to create something that looked like a derelict store that had been boarded up for years that we have re-opened. TB: What’s the reasoning behind the rollout? ST: Part of the key for us, and why we’re rolling out these stores, is you don’t have to spend a fortune on making something look unique. Also, none of the rents I’ve agreed
are outrageous. I’m cautious by nature, and we are fortunate enough to have a unique concept that forward-thinking landlords, such as Shaftesbury, have been supportive of. They know the last four years have been tough. Also, if you have something different, they want you, and they’re willing to bend, because nobody wants a high street full of cheap sportswear shops, pawnbrokers, coffee shop chains or empty stores. They want something interesting so, if you can give them an interesting experience, it draws the right type of customers to the area. TB: Where else have you opened? ST: We’ve done the same in Leeds, taking one of Hip’s old units in Thorntons Arcade. It opened last September. We opened in Spitalfields in October and at the Mail Box in Birmingham in November. It’s been a shotgun shop opening time. There is also online, which is probably our best store, but with customers from all across the UK, but also from New York, LA, France, Germany, Scandinavia – all over the world. With the remodelling of the business, we withdrew from wholesale for a couple of seasons to concentrate on sorting out the issues we had with supply chain and funding. To be honest, to get the ball rolling properly, you need stores. So I now have six stores and a website roughly taking £10,000 to £15,000 a week, and I’m currently producing stock just for retail. It’s similar to what happened with All Saints. I never intended any of this to happen, but then I never really intended for it to happen with All Saints. I started out as a wholesaler, had people who didn’t pay me, got hit by the recession, had people who didn’t take their orders in, and subsequently had stock to use up. So I thought, sod it, I’ll open some shops. The next season, the same thing happened, and I opened another store. I ended up with 13 shops with All Saints, and this could go the same way.
“Retail isn’t easy. I don’t think anyone is having it easy right now, but you open a store like this – in the right area with a buzz about the place – and it gives you faith”
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G E N T
AN AMERICAN CLASSIC Not content with being the oldest apparel brand in the US, Brooks Brothers is trying its luck with the UK market, having recently announced the appointment of Giles Preston to the newly created position of wholesale manager. In his role, Preston will be responsible for developing the Brooks Brothers wholesale distribution for product categories including apparel and accessories for men, women and children, as well as the Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers collection designed by Thom Browne. “As America’s oldest apparel brand and a true style authority, Brooks Brothers has a unique position in the market,” says Jane McCann, UK general manager. “We see tremendous opportunity to expand our relationships with specialty stores. Giles brings a wealth of experience and an understanding on both the US and UK markets, and I welcome him to the team.” Brooks Brothers is distributed through its own retail network, comprising over 300 stores worldwide. The company also has wholesale distribution in select department stores such as Nordstrom and Barneys New York.
28
Product news
35
French fancy
38
Tailor made
Rounding up the key stories this month
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In-season stock
32
Lord of loungewear
Red alert Premium loungewear specialist Derek Rose
What’s next on the agenda for Vicomte A founder Arthur de Soultrait Doherty, Evans and Stott on joining the northern retail elite
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PRODUCT NEWS Inside menswear.
R E T U R N O F T HE PR I NT
R EVE R SE GE AR At the forefront of Italian cut and quality, menswear label Esemplare continues with its signature style of simple, clean lines for spring/summer 2013. Putting the emphasis on functionality, a key development for the brand this season is its reversible knitwear offer found on a range of garments, from crew-neck sweaters to jackets, combining plain colour with graphic prints. —
British menswear label Hentsch Man is about to enter its fifth year with one of its strongest collections to date, including its most recent expansion into headwear and accessories. A continuation of its spring/summer 2013 range, Californian living provides the inspiration for designer Alexia Hentsch’s winter offering. “It’s as if the surf boy got sick of the West Coast and came back to Europe, retaining the casual slouchy look, but slightly more suited up,” says Hentsch. Prints make their way to the front of the collection for the new season in a subdued autumnal colour palette. Burgundy, grey and navy are teamed with monochrome, geometric block motifs and printed denim chambray, while graphic intarsia hats and scarves make their collection debut. —
HISTORY LESSON Drawing inspiration from footwear found in the Victorian era, men’s label Frank Wright presents a collection of ankle and mid-calf boot styles, incorporating details from traditional lace-up pit boots. Durable and hardworking, raw-cut, unlined leathers have been combined with nubuck and milled leather finishes. Other finishes come from distressed and antiqued leathers, teamed with suede and waxed canvas options, while the colour palette remains true to the season, featuring shades of orange, tan, navy, brown and camel. —
BRAND TO WATCH
PHErEs After showing her first collection in Milan in 2006, chief creative officer Narcisa Pheres gained recognition from her peers, and has since been invited to showcase her self-titled menswear collection throughout Europe and Asia. Pheres’ made-to-measure range is now available in the UK and will be followed by a full ready-to-wear collection for spring/summer 2013. The ready-to-wear, Made in Italy line will initially be available by appointment only as a way of adding to the bespoke service, with accessories ranging from scarves, ties, cuff links and the odd jacket. In the ready-to-wear spring/summer 2013 collection, buyers can expect to see a colourful palette of blue and pink in high-quality, naturally light fabrics of linen, cotton and cotton silk mixes. The brand’s signature deconstructed jackets (no shoulder pads, no lining), are in attendance, alongside small details such as crochet flowers on the boutonniere of summer jackets, elbow patches and silk pocket details. Current stockists abroad include luxury department store chain Lane Crawford. In the UK, meanwhile, the brand is looking to target the likes of Harrods, Mr Porter, selfridges, Liberty, Flannels and Harvey Nichols as well as key high-end independents. www.pheres.com
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oN treNd
RADAR
Seasonal extras.
Spotlighting style.
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1: BEN SHERMAN £24 020 7812 5300 2: EMU £22 020 7713 2082 3: SIMON CARTER £37 020 8683 4475 4: LEVIS £13 01604 599735 5: CAMEL ACTIVE price on request 020 7736 0230
ESTABLISHED: 2006 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Well-tailored, slim-fit jackets with handmade detailed elements and deconstructed shoulders. — HISTORY: Narcisa Pheres has extensive knowledge of the international fashion scene through her studies in Milan (Instituto di Moda Burgo), London (Central Saint Martins) as well as a certified jewellery designer with the Gemmological Institute of America.
atelier ESTABLISHED: 2011 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Atelier specialises in modern classics, boasting a wide range of apparel, footwear and accessories, blending casual looks with elegance. — HISTORY: Atelier is an upscale American lifestyle company and men’s fashion retailer founded by Michael Amar and Kerby Pata, focusing on high-end apparel and accessories for men. respected for their meticulous fits and world-class textiles, american label atelier represents a distinctively casual-meets-refined viewpoint, combined with popular european slim-fit silhouettes. For the Cruise 2013 collection, the designers have incorporated warm tones of brown and navy with cool classics, including lavender and grey, to create a seasonless, transitional wardrobe. appearing on shirts, which make up 80 per cent of the collection, are clean patterns and prints, ranging from plaids and gingham – an atelier staple. these are set alongside a range of blazers, matching trousers and cashmere and silk blend sweaters. Sizes range from small to XXl. an elegant sports look defines the Cruise line, with navy blazers designed to be worn over red fine-stripe cotton shirts. Shoes, meanwhile, come in luxurious velvet, lambskin suedes and nubuck leather from Naples, italy, while stainless steel and copper cuff links and viscose-cotton blended scarves supplement the apparel. though relatively new on the scene, atelier is targeting key accounts such as department stores Harvey Nichols, Bloomingdales, Saks, Macy’s and Nordstrom. www.atelierclothing.com
COTTONFIELD, £26.90, 07810 872320
GUIDE, £18, 020 748 1111
EDEN PARK, PRICE ON REQUEST, 01732 852281
MAGEE, £39.50, 02825 646211
LUKE, £27.80, 01869 366580
BOSIDENG, £35, 020 7290 3170
GABICCI, FROM £38, 01442 233700
RED ALERT Russet tones gained momentum in autumn and are here to stay for spring. Look out for touchy-feely fabrics, and pair with complementary colours of indigo, forest green and mustard in-store. — D555, £4, 0115 977 0009
JOHN SMEDLEY, £48.90, 01629 530 456
DISPAIR LONDON, £28, 01706 212512
All prices are wholesale, unless stated otherwise
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LORd OF LOuNgeWeAR derek Rose is the self-styled “king of pyjamas”. But he’s not ready for bed yet. Indeed, his son, Sacha, is driving the brand forward and, having launched luxury loungewear in 2008 with tremendous success, is now presenting superior underwear for autumn/winter 2013 with fresh branding to go with it. Tom Bottomley gets the undercover story. —
The Rose family have a history of making premium men’s nightwear that stretches back almost 90 years. Indeed, Derek Rose is a third-generation family business. But, in 2008, managing director Sacha Rose – son of Derek – took the decision to drive the brand in a new direction with the launch of loungewear, or Naturally Loungewear by Derek Rose, to be precise. And it worked, not only winning plaudits and a regular customer base in some of the best stores in the world, including Harrods and Selfridges, but also giving the Derek Rose label a more contemporary air. With that in mind, two years ago Sacha
decided to go one step further and develop what he sees as the finest underwear known to man. They’ve had a woven boxer shorts business for many years, but this is the first time the company has gone full hog into men’s underwear, following the same precision and desire for quality as they have done with the loungewear offer. “If it was a Carlsberg ad, we would say this is probably the best underwear in the world,” says Rose. To get to this point, it’s perhaps necessary to get a picture of the Derek Rose business. Derek’s father, Jack Lewis Rose, started out in 1925, and Derek joined the business in 1953, but the company was not set up as the brand, Derek Rose, until 1975.
So this year is Derek Rose’s 60th in the business – quite a milestone. “We have pyjama designs in the collection that were there when my grandfather started up in the 20s,” says Sacha. “And they still do well. But, each season, there are also 25-35 new designs – not just pyjamas but dressing gowns too – and we’ve seen a big increase in the sale of silk and cashmere.” Derek Rose cotton pyjamas retail for £120£140, and silks sell for between £255 and £690. “We also do incredibly small runs. Fabrics from Italy that we use to produce the garments here in the UK. Everything we design is unique to us. My sister, Nancy Rose-Pagani, does the design.”
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“We have pyjama designs in the collection that were there when my grandfather started up in the 20s”
The company still has a factory that makes the real top-end nightwear in Congleton, Cheshire, though most of the production is done in Europe. “I’m not the biggest help to the Made in Britain campaign, because I don’t feel it means the product is necessarily better,” says Rose. He believes that if you have good production control, and quality control, you can get a great product made anywhere. “The most important thing is that we have great design, expertise and development skills here, and we can get products made to our specifications.” Derek Rose now has offices and a showroom on London’s Baker Street. The showroom was previously on Savile Row for some 30 years, and indeed Savile Row was included on the old brand logo. The redesigned logo, which now has a more contemporary look, has lost the old Savile Row tag, as Rose believes it’s not relevant any more as they are no longer there. When it comes to the niche of luxury sleepwear, Rose says, “We are the number one brand in the world.” So when he saw the growing market for loungewear, he set about to be number one in that, too. “I saw it was based on a woven lounge trouser and a jersey T-shirt but, I said to the girls in design, ‘T-shirts are incredibly commoditised
– I can go and buy a T-shirt for £5 or £10’ and so on. So the question was, ‘Why would someone buy a white T-shirt from me?’” They then spent a year developing an incredibly high-spec fabric. “We used three different countries to get it from the yarn to the finished fabric, to get it just the way we wanted it,” says Rose. “Importantly, when most buyers touch it, they say, ‘Wow, that feels nice.’” It also holds its shape when washed time and time again. “The T-shirt is now our number one selling product, retailing at £65,” Rose continues. “But, you have to wear it to appreciate it, and we’ve now built up a loyal following for it.” It’s also seen Derek Rose become the number one loungewear supplier in some of the biggest department stores in the world. Quite a feat considering Naturally Loungewear by Derek Rose was only launched around four years ago, and which also features cashmere hoodies that retail at £345. The T-shirt has given what is regarded as quite an old school company a new, more contemporary, feel. “People spend a lot of time at home, so it makes sense to be comfortable and have the best,” says Rose. “We can’t compete on a brand level with the likes of Ralph Lauren but, in our niche, we can be the very best on quality. Our philosophy is always ‘product first’.” Rose then set his sights on creating the finest underwear. “The remit was the same – ‘Why would someone buy a white trunk or a white hipster from me?’” After around a year of development and thinking they nearly had it, Rose decided he wasn’t happy, so he went back to square one. “It has ended up taking two years to get it absolutely right,” he says. But, for a/w 13, the brand is launching a full collection of men’s underwear. “I can tell you which threads we’ve used, which needles we’ve used and what stitching we’ve used in every single product,” says Rose. “We’re using threads that no one else is using and, because of the combination of the fabrics and the thread, it’s allowed us to use much
SACHA ROSE
finer needles than other people use. There is a stitching process, which was used in the 50s and 60s called “manual welting” – and we’ve revived that. It allows you to have a subtle seam, and it’s soft on the skin, but not too feminine.” Rose says the world of men’s underwear is very technical and, for that reason, they are working with three technical guys who, between them, have got 122 years’ experience in men’s underwear. It shows in the quality and attention to detail. And with its bold and contemporary new packaging and presentation, the Derek Rose name looks destined to become a big hit in the world of luxury men’s underwear as well – especially now they have also got “patent pending” on a new magnetic closure for boxer shorts and other items of sleepwear and loungewear. It’s perhaps surprising that the brand has never had a shop but, as Rose explains, “Sleepwear is very much a seasonal purchase, biased towards autumn/winter. So the feeling has been that if we had a retail space, the cash flow would be excellent between October and February but not the rest of the year. But, now that we have luxury loungewear and underwear, retail is potentially the next thing on the agenda.” For that part, it’s watch this space for the latest in the adventures of Derek Rose.
BRUNO SAINT HILAIRE BACK IN THE UK HISTORY - A TROUSER HOUSE SINCE 1973 1973 - Bruno Saint Hilaire is the first trouser house to introduce Lycra in ready to wear. The consumer discovers then what comfortable clothing means. 1987 - Launch of the “Special Auto” concept 1990 - Patent certificate for the extensible waistband trousers. 1991 - Patent certificate for the extensible leather belt. 1993 - Launch of the formal wear collection 1998 - Introduction of climate control fabrics (Coolmax,Thermolite) 1999 - Launch of the thermo-regulating concept Right Temps 2011 - Launch of the “Perfect Lift”for women and “Stretch chino” for men.
THE CORE BUSINESS At Bruno Saint Hilaire, trousers are not just an essential part of any masculine or feminine wardrobe... It is THE emblematic product. Already in 1973, it is as a trousers expert that Bruno Saint Hilaire builds its reputation. A must have product but also the most technical one. Because of all its technical characteristics, innovation becomes part of the DNA of the brand and is now associated with every new creation. Comfort, style, fitting and details, the trouser has become a symbol of “savoir-faire” of the brand.
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS • 2 way stretch material • Stretchable waistband with 10% elasticity guaranteed. • Stain and crease resistant • Thermo-regulated
www.bruno-saint-hilaire.com
40TH ANNIVERSARY RELAUNCH OF BRUNO SAINT HILAIRE IN THE UK As part of their 40th anniversary, Bruno Saint Hilaire will be returning to the UK market where they have gained great success over a number of years. Delighted to relaunch from January 2013, the brand will present its winter 2013 men’s collection, as well as introducing its ladies collection. You are invited to an exclusive preview of the new winter 2013 collection at showrooms throughout the UK (London, Birmingham and Leeds). For dates and appointments please contact us.
CONTACT: If you are interested in becoming a stockist as part of our exciting new re-launch, please do not hesitate to contact me to your convenience to discuss a possible collaboration. Nathalie Le Besque UK Sales Agent Tel: 07979 750813 n.lebesque@bruno-saint-hilaire.com
JANUARY 2013 | GENT | PROFILE | 35
BRAND FOUNDER AND DIRECTOR ARTHUR DE SOULTRAIT
FReNCh FANCy Parisian label vicomte A is seeking out new franchise partners to help its growth in the uk and around the world, with its new kings Road shop in London setting the precedent. Tom Bottomley finds out more from brand founder and director Arthur de Soultrait. — vicomte A is something of a French phenomenon. Founded in 2005 in Paris by Arthur de Soultrait – who is seen as somewhat of a Euro playboy and counts Pippa Middleton as a close friend – the brand now has 29 stores, 20 of which are in France. An international retail strategy is now under way, with London’s Kings Road being the location of the first shop. The label also supplies some 410 retailers wholesale, though only currently around eight in the UK, something that is likely to change pretty swiftly. The spur behind the rapid rise to glory has no doubt come from a business plan that takes the franchise route, so not all the risk is their own. Indeed, UK company TCA Showroom is the franchise partner, as well as its UK wholesale agent. But, apparently, there hasn’t been any bankrolling to put Vicomte A on the map, as De Soultrait says, “We 100 per cent own the company.” The growth, then, is organic, but still quick all things considered in these harsh trading times. The store opening on Kings Road certainly signifies intent to enter the UK market properly. “Currently, we only supply around eight retailers here at wholesale, and that’s something we want to grow, especially considering the success we’ve had in France, which represents 80 per cent of our sales,” says De Soultrait. “The success is because of the franchise shop openings, but we’re also starting to own our own shops. Of the 29 Vicomte A stores, we now wholly own seven – all those in and around Paris.”
Franchise store openings have given them a real opportunity to grow the brand, especially in markets outside France, where they don’t have such expertise but can work with the right people who do. One of the Vicomte A stores is in Palm Beach in the US, and is ran by De Soultrait’s brother, Bertrand, who lives in Florida and “is good in business and helped me open it,” says De Soultrait. Taking corners and shop-in-shops in department stores has also provided a good source of growth for Vicomte A in other markets. “But the standalone shops are important so you can see the whole collection,” says De Soultrait. “With strong partners, we can invest on a several-year plan.” The idea, therefore, is to open more stores in the UK, and not just in London. Both Oxford and Bath are possible targets that De Soultrait describes as, “very English cities.” He adds, “It’s important for us to get into the culture of the country and not to only be considered ‘a Parisian brand’.” The Kings Road store has taken around three years to materialise, and De Soultrait sees the location as right for the label in terms of visibility. He says a lot of their customers live in or around Chelsea, so it made sense. “They travel a lot and see the brand when they go to St Tropez, Paris, New York, Dubai and so on, “ he says. “There is a real brand awareness. Also, London has a large population of French people, which helps.” The Kings Road shop is carrying around 70 per cent menswear compared to womenswear.
Quality and freshness in terms of colour and detailing are key factors to the collections. English designer James Harvey-Kelly, who has come on board for a/w 13, is intent on delivering “a fresh and energetic approach to the sartorial wardrobe, using British cloths combined with an Italian influence of soft construction.” The results are pleasing to the eye and wearable. The prices are certainly not cheap, but not scary either. Harvey-Kelly cut his cloth, so to speak, spending five years on Jermyn Street learning the art of making shirts and suits at Emmett London. He was also involved in the setting up and running of independent menswear boutique Trunk Clothiers in London’s Marylebone. “Colour, quality and price are of utmost importance to us,” says De Soultrait. “We always try to be reasonable with the prices, even when the product is premium and made in England or Europe. We want to keep that top quality, but not over-price. I don’t think, at the luxury end of the market, the price necessarily reflects the quality,” he says. “The way things are today, it seems even affluent people are more careful how they spend. So I think that’s where we’re having success.” Time will tell if Vicomte A can truly crack the UK market, but the blueprint has been firmly set in France, and certainly the US. Other countries are now on the radar, with the right franchise partners sought to secure a strong retail foothold. Bold moves, indeed, in unpredictable times. www.vicomte-a.com
JANUARY 2013 | GENT | RETAIL PROFILE | 38
LEFT TO RIGHT: THOMAS STOTT, ANDREW DOHERTY AND MATTHEW EVANS
TAILORed TO FIT When made-to-measure tailoring trio Andrew doherty, matthew evans and Thomas Stott were left in a conundrum when gieves & hawkes decided to pull out of its concession in house of Fraser in manchester, they decided to take on the mantle and run with their own-name label, doherty evans & Stott. And now they have their own shop at 64 Bridge Street, writes Tom Bottomley. —
It seems high-end tailoring is undergoing a renaissance with manchester’s more sartorial elite, and doherty evans & Stott appears to be playing its part. The shop opened in October 2012 after a successful two-year stint as their own concession in House of Fraser, where Andrew, Matthew and Thomas had previously run the Gieves & Hawkes concession before the brand decided to pull out. They believed the made-to-measure business had plenty of legs, so took it upon themselves to give it a go on their own. “After Gieves & Hawkes pulled out of House of
Fraser, we started out as travelling tailors, making made-to-measure suits after feeling that the brand’s made-to-measure offer had a lot of mileage in it,” says partner Matthew Evans. “It was popular and specialised.” Originally, they advertised locally, and went to customer’s houses and work places for appointments. “It was slow,” says Evans. “We didn’t get the response we had been promised by our Gieves & Hawkes customers. But, eventually, we got some free advertising in the Manchester Evening News, and that pretty much turned it around. Off the back of it, we were offered a made-to-measure
spot back in House of Fraser.” It opened on 1 October 2010 and, with that, they also started to stock various accessories alongside the tailoring. “From there, it has gone from strength to strength in terms of building Doherty Evans & Stott as a brand,” says Evans. And we’ve been adding new product categories every season. We left House of Fraser two years later to open our own shop as much more of a general menswear outfitters.” Though there is still an emphasis on tailoring. Evans says it’s great to now have their own environment “where our stock can shine as it should.” Although certainly not knocking what their
January 2013 | gent | retail profile | 39
concession in House of Fraser has done for them, he believes that being in a department store you can easily be missed and unappreciated, “though we did build up a good following.” Evans points to certain values he believes people now come to them for. “We are obsessed with fit and fabric – mostly British – and try to communicate it in everything we do,” he says. Ironically, the trio initially made a deal with Gieves & Hawkes to use the company’s manufacturing facility for their own label, ensuring finished suits were of the same standard. Though they now use suit-makers in Italy, and UK manufacturers are used for ties and shirts (with the finest Swiss threads from leading cotton maker Alumo, who also supplies shirting fabric to the likes of Hermès). And, in fact, the product categories are growing all the time, with traditional, made in Ireland knitwear from Inis Meain – featuring luxury handmade cable and shawl knit styles – also proving a big favourite with their clientele. There are some great colours, and the jumpers are inspired by the local fisherman on Ireland’s remote west coast. The appeal of the products is reflected in the trio’s own tastes, and appeals to men of varying ages. Evans is 38, Andrew Doherty is 43 and Thomas Stott is 28, and it defines their target market, too. “We’re putting out there exactly what we like, therefore we’re very passionate about it,” says Evans. “We had training at the Gieves & Hawkes store at No 1 Savile Row, though we never worked at the store itself,” says Doherty. “Personally, I’ve been involved in men’s tailoring for some 26 years, and Matthew’s last main role prior to Gieves & Hawkes was as store manager of Vivienne Westwood. He got a degree in product design before his role at Gieves & Hawkes.” So the three of them clearly bring different skills to the table. They also still do house and workplace visits
for the made-to-measure suits, but would obviously prefer it if customers come to the shop. “We have a free parking spot outside the store, which is unusual in a city centre and is a real bonus to be able to offer customers,” says Evans. But, has Balotelli roared up in his camouflaged Bentley Continental GT yet? “Actually, we are in early talks with a couple of Manchester City players regarding suits, but it’s too early to mention any names,” says Evans, discreetly. “Though we are making a couple of suits for Elbow frontman Guy Garvey.” But how much harder is it to build a business without a brand name of international regard such as Gieves & Hawkes? “I would go to a recognised label myself instinctively quicker than I would go to a new brand,” says Evans. “And it’s fair enough people generally think like that. But, people also like to discover new things and, in a way, become part of a new club. That’s what we’re offering. There is a certain exclusivity and edge to it.” Evans says they’ve seen an upturn in men wearing suits, and smartening up in general. “We knew there was a good market in Manchester for made-to-measure because of what we had witnessed while working for Gieves & Hawkes. There was a gap in the market at this sort of level.” A Doherty Evans & Stott made-to-measure suit starts at £995. There are also off-the-peg jackets and trousers, all of which are made in Italy. The suits are now made by Mabro in Tuscany, and are dual branded DE&S x Mabro on the inside labels. “The collaboration side is opening us up to other markets we wouldn’t have had before,” says
“We want to keep our offer made in Britain as much as possible. We charge a certain price and, having it made in a certain place, does add value to it” Evans. “We’re looking at doing shoes at some point, but it’s not in our offer just yet. However, there isn’t much we don’t do – men can buy an entire outfit from us. We’ve also started doing Johnstons of Elgin cashmere scarves, gloves and hats, as well as Fox umbrellas.” Of course, being based in Manchester, a good umbrella is a prerequisite, and stocking the finest is a trick not to be missed. “We want to keep our offer made in Britain or Italy as much as possible,” says Evans. “We charge a certain price, and having it made in a certain place does add value to it and makes it more appealing.” In terms of covering the shop, buying and workload, Evans reckons three is a good number, though they still also have a couple of part-timers to fill in when they’re away on trips to shows such as Pitti Uomo. Wholesaling is not something in the trio’s plans, but another branch might well be something they would consider going forward. “If we did, I think it would be in London,” says Evans. “There is potential, but we need to establish ourselves in this store before we can seriously think about it.”
D I E M A R K E D E R V E R B U N D E N H E I T.
FOR CONTACT:
NIGEL PINNOCK (for London and the South of England) Morley House (Suite G. 03) 320 Regent Street, London Phone 0044 2073230478 Mobile 0044 7968344969 MICHAEL BENNETT (for Midlands, Nor th of England and Scotland) Suite 3 Wilmslow House / Grove Way / Water Lane UK -Wilmslow SK9 5AG Cheshire Phone 0044 1625540666 Mobile 0044 7973211655
JANUARY 2013 | BRAND GUIDE | CONTENTS | 41
B R A N D
G U I D E
A / W
1 3
SHINE BRIGHT LIKE A BEACON Not one to shy away from brand collaborations, Barbour welcomes the creativity of Savile Row tailor Patrick Grant of Norton & Sons for autumn/winter 2013. The premium Beacon Heritage collection brings together Northumberland fishing communities and Savile Row, with a strong focus on both weatherproof and warming outerwear. Two iconic styles make their return this winter, with the hooded, military Durham and the traditional wax Beaufort, both key for buyers in the know. Fabric choices include waxed, wool and tweed while silhouettes remain slim, fitted and modern. Under coats, Barbour places Fair Isle sweats and chunky knit cardigans worn over Tattersall check and chambray shirts. The finer details, meanwhile, include antique union flag linings, polar fleece inners, handwarmers and hidden hoods, while a traditional autumnal colour palette features blue, grey, brown, mustard, red and olive. Definitely one to watch this season.
42 46
In the know
54
The buyers view
The brand news, developments and updates for the new season
MWB speaks to three key indies about what’s on the top of their list this
Trend hunter
buying season
Key trends to emerge for autumn/winter 2013
ETERNA
JANUARY 2013 | BRAND GUIDE | NEWS | 42
ANDY RICHARDSON
BAUMLER
RAGING BULL EDEN PARK
TIMEZONE
JOHN SMEDLEY
JANUARY 2013 | BRAND GUIDE | NEWS | 43
IN THE KNOW With the autumn/winter 2013 buying season in full swing, MWB takes a look at the direction, innovation and news from some of the key names in mainstream menswear. —
DOUBLE TWO
ANDY RI CHAR DSO N Continuing its journey from its inception as a T-shirt label through to a complete wardrobe collection, Andy Richardson is going from strength to strength in the UK market. A/w 13 sees the brand draw its inspiration from a fictional character – Henry Mencken. Coloured linings and contrasting patches come from Mencken – a writer in the 30s – and his flair for dressing with jackets, knitwear and denim teamed with flamboyant accessories including braces and pop colours such as red and yellow. E T E R NA A/w 13 sees shirt specialist Eterna celebrate its 150th anniversary with the extension of its Premium range, as well as its return to the brand archive to revive popular styles from the 20s and 30s. Set to be one of 2013’s key trend themes, The Great Gatsby inspires the brand’s formal shirt collection with slim-fit silhouettes and updated collar styles, including small button-down, tab and Peter Pan options. Detailed tie patterns and floral prints contrast with classic black and white items. RAGI NG BULL New to the Raging Bull range for a/w 13 is the introduction of two sharply cut jackets in both herringbone and corduroy, ideal for layering over rugby shirts and knitwear. As a response to consumer feedback, the brand’s biggest selling product – the gilet – has undergone a makeover to include a hood, check lining and a chocolate brown colourway (pictured). The label’s knitwear offer, meanwhile, expands its colour options and styles including chunky cable-knit sweaters with button-neck detailing and fine gauge V-necks. J OHN SMEDLEY Following a summer of sports, iconic knitwear brand John Smedley continues the theme into a/w 13, drawing inspiration from 30s and 60s skiwear found in its archive. Fine-knit long johns and shawl-collar cardigans are offered in a series of brights, while new red branding as been applied throughout. A key style in the John Smedley collection is the Cambourne polo shirt, updated in a series of new colour combinations.
BAU M LE R Relaunching for the UK market under the umbrella of the Berwin & Berwin group, Baumler presents one of its strongest collections to date. Comprising three lines – Purple Label, a semi-traditional tailored collection; Black Label, featuring washed Shetland wool and a rounded shoulder; and White Label, a fashion-focused line including on-trend shades of burgundy, and paisley linings. The addition of shirts, ties, coats and trousers, meanwhile, complete the collection for a/w 13. DO U BLE T WO Shirt specialist Double Two kicks off the new season with the introduction of a cotton-rich classic model with a cadet stripe in navy, black and burgundy, all with the addition of a plain white collar. The brand’s premium range, Paradigm, meanwhile, continues to offer Cotton Micro Twill in soft toned steel, wine, cornflower blue and pink shades, again with the option of a plain white collar and double cuff. T I M E ZO NE Each season, lifestyle label Timezone takes its inspiration from hot spots around the globe. This season is no different, with inspiration drawn from the Russia roots and Scandinavian flair of Tallinn – the capital of Estonia. Key pieces in the collection include flannel shirts, long sleeve tees, garment-dyed fine knits and waxed cotton jackets. Making the transition from summer, coloured denim remains prominent with the addition a more subdued colour palette for a/w 13. E DE N PAR K Luxe is the buzzword at French label Eden Park this season with a versatile collection of fabrics including cashmere, herringbone, flannels, heather jerseys and mini corduroy. Deep hues such as black and indigo are placed next to myrtle green and sauterne, while products designed to whet the buyer’s appetite include shawl collar sports jackets, military style coats and rugby collar knitted sweaters, drawing inspiration from its “preppy” heritage. —
>>>
CAMEL ACTIVE
JANUARY 2013 | BRAND GUIDE | NEWS | 44
C AM E L AC T I VE Tracing Heritage is the name of the latest Camel Active offering, comprising patterns and design elements inspired by Central Asia. Buyers can expect traditional materials such as tweed, wool, vintage corduroy, washed twill and quilted nylon. Parkas and field jackets, meanwhile, return for another season, updated for a/w 13 with hunting details such as subtle repair effects, camouflage patterning, leather zip pullers and sleeve trimmings, giving the collection added gravitas. BR AX Remaining a key product category for German label Brax, outerwear comes into its own for a/w 13. Dominated by light down, quilted and wool jacket options, the key focus is on warming yet lightweight styles for maximum comfort. The collection’s sports-inspired washed blazer is prominent for the new season and is available in cord, denim or jersey, designed to be teamed with Brax’s wool-look and satin-weave trouser options. MAC Innovation is at the heart of each collection from German trouser specialist Mac, and this season is no different. Incorporated into its denim division, the iPants by Mac are coated in a waterproof outer, allowing the trousers to dry four times faster than conventional denim. The range also includes styles in Tencel denim, a fabric that reduces the formation of sweat and stores warm air on the body’s surface. The iPants by Mac also feature a detachable iPhone pocket made of leather for the travelling customer.
BRAX
OLYMP
MAC
O LYM P Shirt specialist Olymp moves into a/w 13 with a collection of classics and fashion-led models, as well as the development of its knitwear range. In its Business line, the brand introduces merino wool knits in a series of kiwi, saffron, tabasco and berry, while its Classics range is based on cotton and cotton/cashmere mixes, with shirt fabrics used for decorative details, creating the ideal link between the two. —
JANUARY 2013 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 46
TReNd huNTeR mWB highlights some of the latest trends to emerge in menswear for autumn/winter 2013. —
STONeS
gReeN dAy
BRühL
Although the rustic tones of last season are still prominent for autumn/winter 2013, green, it seems, is the colour set to dominate mainstream menswear this season. From olive shades at CG Club of Gents, British racing green at lifestyle label Joules through to lime shades over at German label Digel, buyers can expect to find a host of green trouser options this season. While colour is prevalent, fabric is the key focus of the new season, with retro cords and micro-structure stretch cotton trousers – as seen at the likes of Brühl and Club of Comfort – becoming buying staples. That’s not to say denim has had its day, however. The focus for many labels, including trouser specialist Brax, is on piece-dyed coloured denim, in which the dyeing of the fabric takes place after it has been woven. The finer details in the trouser segment, meanwhile, include patterned inner linings, piping, liner tapes, double pleats, drawstring tapes on the inner waistband and stay buttons in contrasting colours. Silhouettes, meanwhile, remain slim-fit and narrow for the more fashion-conscious shopper, while a looser, straight cut caters for the older gent. —
JANUARY 2013 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 47
CG CLUB OF GENTS
BRAX
JOULES
DIGEL
CLUB OF COMFORT
ALBERTO
meRC
JANUARY 2013 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 48
gIBSON LONdON
FINe ANd dANdy eclectic and timeless are just two of the words that can be used to describe this season’s tailoring offer. Sartorial smartness reintroduces an elegance once found in eras gone by, where gents placed a high importance on their physical appearance. Structured double-breasted suits sit next to slightly longer lined jackets with broader lapels at the likes of Gibson London, while three-piece waistcoat suits are at the forefront of the Black Label by Benvenuto collection, playing homage to downtown New York in the 40s. Waistcoats, meanwhile, are prominent throughout the autumn/winter 2013 collections, spotted at the likes of Digel and Memento. Suit cuts are slim at the waist and narrow at the shoulder, while fabric and print choices include soft washed cotton, wool/cashmere mixes, needle cord, Harris Tweed, bold checks, stripes and herringbone print. It’s the finer details, however, that update this trend for the new season with velvet collars, leather piped patch pockets, bell-shaped top stitched pockets and handmade painted horn buttons featured throughout. Colour plays a key role in tailoring this season, with wine, aubergine, petrol and brown offering interesting alternatives to traditional black and grey. —
BLACk LABeL By BeNveNuTO
JANUARY 2013 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 49
interview
ben sherman
eterna
leon SoulSby, international tailoring and development manager
bugatti
you have recently joined ben Sherman’s tailoring division, what is your strategy moving forward? having grown up with ben sherman, I’ve seen the brand evolve from a mod-focused label to cater for a more gentrified modernist consumer. When joining the company, one of my priorities was to transfer the personality of the brand that is visible in the Plectrum and british Wardrobe staples lines into the Tailoring collection. what role does tailoring play in the current growth of the brand? We believe it’s paramount to the success and growth of the business, with dedicated tailoring floors built within both our Carnaby street and Commercial street stores. at present, tailoring represents 25 per cent of our brand mix, and we aim to grow this by 80 per cent over the next year.
alberto
barutti
memento
How do you plan to develop the tailoring offer? short-term plans are to grow tailoring sales from within our own retail stores, which have seen a significant lift for a/w 12 due to improving our fabric options and styling, coupled with employing tailoring specialists. We’re also focused on growing within our overseas market via our own retail stores in Germany and through our global partners. Finally, what do you have in store for a/w 13? The collection has grown for the new season and we’ve reflected the spirit that comes from the Plectrum range by adding fashion pieces that will excite our targeted customer. This includes a double-breasted tonic cord fabric suit, along with a tweed shawl collar dinner suit. We’ve also introduced english fabrics in order to continue improving our offer to our market. This is underpinned by a well-considered shirting and tie collection, which incorporates needle cord printed shirting, along with the reinterpreted gingham check shirts – updated with a mini penny collar and cuff. —
BRAx
JANUARY 2013 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 51
dIgeL
S4
CALAmAR
drawing inspiration from european winters this season, quilted jackets and warming down parkas form the basis of autumn/winter 2013’s outerwear offer. Functional and technical fabrics are key, including nylon qualities made of melange yarns and knitted inlays for warmth. This season, for example, sees Digel present its Protect3 model – breathable, water-repellent, easy care, low creasing and radiation-blocking mobile phone pockets on the inside. If there is one outerwear option set to dominate the new season, the quilted down jacket reigns champion, updated for the new season in a selection of metallic colourways, as spotted at the likes of S4, Roy Robson, Brax and Calamar. —
ROy ROBSON
AgAINST The eLemeNTS
JANUARY 2013 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 52
CALAmAR
CAmeL ACTIve
ROy ROBSON
CINque
Cg CLuB OF geNTS
BLue veLveT The blazer plays a prominent role in autumn/winter 2013, remaining classic in shape with a slimmer and shorter silhouette, yet updated in a selection of luxe fabric choices. Offering a smarter alternative to the casual wardrobe of the Camel Active man, velvet blazer models with iridescent surface textures are juxtaposed with knitwear, shirting and denim. Washed velvet sits next to baby corduroy, with wool and felt undercollars at Calamar, while top pockets with contrast stitching and coloured buttonholes are spotted at Roy Robson and CG Club of Gents. Dutch label Cinque, meanwhile, offers evening options, with single-breasted models comprising matte gold buttons and lapel pins. —
JANUARY 2013 | BRAND GUIDE | INTERVIEW | 54
The BuyeRS vIeW mWB’s victoria Jackson spoke to three of the industry’s key menswear independents to find out what the new buying season has in store, which trends they predict will be big and how the need to revise budgets is greater than ever. — mAuRO SANTA BARBARA
PAuL PLATT
SCOTT FALLOWS
MENSWEAR BUYER, ACCENT, LEEDS
CO-OWNER, POCKETS, SHREWSBURY
MENSWEAR BUYER, PSYCHE, MIDDLESBROUGH
victoria Jackson: Which is the key show for you this season? Mauro Santa Barbara: It would have to be CPH – Scandinavia is currently at the forefront of delivering innovative product, something I feel is key when building a brand portfolio for an independent. We’ll still be flying out for Pitti Uomo though, as well as seeing what’s happening down at Jacket Required.
victoria Jackson: Which shows are you attending this season? Paul Platt: We’re only doing Pitti Uomo this season. I love the style of the show and Florence as a city. It has everything we need to get a feel for the season and it’s great to catch up with colleagues and meet all the interesting characters.
vJ: Which trends do you predict will be biggest for autumn/winter 2013? MSB: I can see woven fabrics and prints carrying over from s/s 2013. I’m also going to hedge a bet on technical fabrics making a come-back after the Olympics being so prominent last year. vJ: Which labels are you most looking forward to seeing? MSB: Two new names we’re looking into possibly buying are Love Denim and Lagerfeld. J.Lindeberg has always been a personal favourite of mine so it will be great to see how that’s developed. We’ve also had a number of labels perform brilliantly for us this winter, including Replay, Anerkjendt, Denham, Edwin and Luke 1977 – and it’s always interesting to see what these guys have on offer. vJ: What changes are you making to your buying budget this season? MSB: We’ve increased our short-order budget by 20 per cent. By having less stock we’re not over committed and will have budget to be more responsive to trends and weather conditions. We can also look at the brands that are discounting and spend our money where we are protected. —
vJ: Which brands are you most looking forward to seeing? PP: It has to be Burberry London. What a tremendous British brand. Another British label that’s doing extremely well for us is Paul Smith, so I’m excited to see what he has up his sleeve. vJ: have you changed your buying budget in comparison to last autumn/winter? PP: We’ve increased our budget for next winter, with 80/20 per cent ratio for forward to short order. We’re pretty happy with our lot but one of our main challenges in winter is the weather. Its unpredictable nature is definitely worrying at times but other parts of the country seem to have it worse than us. All we need to work through now is early sales and constant discounts online – two of my main concerns for the new season. vJ: Are there any trends you’ve noticed developing already? PP: We’ve generally been trading up, so I’d say interesting suits and blazers are something I’ll invest in. I’m predicting the return of leather and I’ll be looking at buying into heavy knitwear, cord and cashmere. All those luxe fabrics seem to have done well for us so far, so I’ll be looking into continuing with this formula moving forward. —
victoria Jackson: Which shows will you be attending this buying season? Scott Fallows: We’ll be heading over to Berlin for Bread & Butter, Seek, Capsule and Premium, as well as Jacket Required and Moda. Pitti Uomo, Premium and Moda are the three key shows for our tailoring department. Pitti gives a better insight into fashion collections and trends, whereas Moda and Premium offer a more staple product for an older customer. Bread & Butter is important for our young fashion department as we find our key mainstream fashion brands here. Seek, Capsule and Jacket Required offer something different in terms of niche product for our men’s premium department. vJ: how has your buying budget changed? SF: Previously, our buy was around 90 per cent main season and 10 per cent mid-season. However, we now buy differently, with around 65 per cent of our buy invested into main season collections, 25 per cent mid-season and 10 per cent open to buy. vJ: do you have any trend predictions? SF: Customers are buying into printed shirts, patterned T-shirts and heavy knitwear this season, which I think will continue for a/w 2013, while outerwear, along with denim, is at the top of our buying lists. vJ: Which brands have performed well this season? SF: Big names like Polo Ralph Lauren, Boss Green, Armani Jeans and Barbour have done well, and smaller names like J.Lindeberg, Denham, Blood Brother and BOY London have performed better than ever. Oliver Spencer always does well so I’m looking forward to seeing what a/w 2013 has in store from him. —
MARK TAYLOR AND PAUL PLATT FOR MORE INDUSTRY OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
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eveRyThINg IN mOduLATION The latest collaboration between Danish name Wood Wood and urban lifestyle label Eastpack sees the release of Modulation – a contemporary, high-tech range of bags and accessories. Inspired by genuine military issue packs, the collection comprises several utilitarian styles constructed from bonded nylon with leather details. Detachable pockets and pouches, alongside subtle colour combinations, create a stylish, sports-inspired modular design. Featuring a comprehensive line-up of new styles, the Eastpack by Wood Wood collection includes backpacks, totes, weekenders, shoulder bags, iPhone and laptop sleeves in a playful colour palette of blue, yellow, green and burgundy. “Our designer collaborations are all about throwing together often very different outlooks and finding a groove that works between them,” says Toon Kympers, product director, Eastpack. “The whole direction taken by this project with Wood Wood shows exactly what’s possible when different brands start speaking the same language.”
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Product news In-season stock
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Street life
Totally tropical
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Preview
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Preview
Profile Scandinavian lifestyle label Boomerang
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Capturing the eclectic mix of London street style
Preview Jacket Required
Flip Copenhagen Fashion Week
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RAdAR
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Spotlighting style.
Inside menswear.
R E BE LS W I T H A C AU SE Founded in 2010, RXTR initially catered for the luggage and accessories market, with an extension into the eyewear sector launched later the same year. Now, with RnB star Tiao Cruz at the reigns as creative director, the brand has expanded into apparel, and is looking to enter the UK wholesale market for s/s 13. A simple monochrome colour palette runs though the initial collection, comprising tees, vests and sweatshirts for both men and women. —
COLLECTIVE ESTABLISHED: 2009 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Everyday super soft basics, focusing on cut and fabric. — HISTORY: Instead of bragging about its design credentials, Collective prefers to speak out about its ethical credentials by supporting manufacturers that have wider environmental and ethical initiatives. Following its early success through collaborations with photographers Terry O’Neil, Bob Carlos Clarke and Nick Veasey, Collective is set to return to its core product line of ethical premium basics for s/s 13. The new range of T-shirts and tank tops for men and women are made with organic cottons and tencel fabric blends that are both ultra sustainable but also very soft. A muted, basic palette of cream, light pink, white, grey and black kicks off the season. Designed to be wardrobe staples, the basics can be purchased by retailers all year round, with wholesale prices ranging between £15 and £24.50. In addition to the premium basics range, Collective will continue its collaborations and deliver them as artistic series and unique capsule collections. Product extensions are also in the pipeline such as wool accessories from a company in Argentina and other top-secret projects with brands in England, Greece and Japan. Current stockists include the likes of Harvey Nichols and Flannels, and the brand is now searching for stockists both at home and abroad who understand the label’s ethical message and long-term vision. www.wearecollective.com
HE ADI NG E AST And Now Wee is a London menswear label offering the 18-30 something gent graphic T-shirts and sweatshirts with a distinct East London look. Reactive and on-trend designs are available with a three-week lead-time thanks to British production and manufacturing. Hand screen-printed from the label’s headquarters in Spitalfields, the brand is currently stocked in Topman and Urban Outfitters nationwide and is looking to expand its wholesale division further for the new season. —
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ON TREND Seasonal extras.
R I DI NG SO LO Starting life as a sub-division to contemporary streetwear label Billionaire Boys Club, skate and action sports label Icecream (pictured) is set to relaunch for a/w 13. The reintroduction of the brand into the global market has been strategically designed to drive Icecream to reach its full potential in the urban and streetwear sector. The premium brand was originally founded by musician Pharrell Williams and Nigo, the designer behind Japanese clothing brand A Bathing Ape (BAPE), in 2005. Williams has recently relaunched the Icecream skate team, naming Andre Beverly, Emmet Duffy, Jamel Marshall and Stephan Martinez as the first members of the squad. Billionaire Boys Club, meanwhile, will stand as its own entity going forward, with both labels moving production from Japan, a revised pricing structure and a drive to grow both labels further within the UK wholesale market. —
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1: 47 Brand £12 01908 488623 2: NEW ERA £10 01296 655166 3: VANS Price on request 020 8846 8267 4: VOLCOM £7.50 0845 486 5266 5: KNOWN £12 01793 480051
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ELEMENT Spring/summer 2013 marks a new start for lifestyle brand element, as the label turns 21. A true coming of age story, the company is now getting recognition after working with artists and creatives such as Nick Weston and Thomas Campbell on special collaborative projects. The clothing has also stepped up in terms of quality, enough to warrant attention outside of the skateboarding sphere in which it naturally found its niche. The Emerald line, which uses higher quality materials and construction as well as being environmentally conscious, is a true representation of how far the brand has come. Urban Industry is the exclusive stockist for the Emerald line in the UK and, with this collection, the brand is hoping to make an impression on the key taste-makers in the industry aged 15-28 plus. The mainline s/s 13 range is versatile, with pop colours aplenty. Honeysuckle is a key focus of the collection, with shades of candy apple red, mint green and deep blue setting it apart from other collections. There are also more refined hues, with pastel pinks and greens featuring throughout, alongside everyday wearable stripes on T-shirts, boardshorts, hoodies, sweats and rugged parkas. www.elementbrand.com
ESTABLISHED: 1992 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Element’s style has evolved through its involvement with skateboarding but with strides made to appeal to a wider audience. — HISTORY: An avid skateboarder since aged four, founder Johnny Schillereff created the brand due to his unwavering dedication to skateboarding and desire to create positive change in his life.
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NATIVE YOUTH, £10, 020 7739 7620 O’NIEL, £25, 01243 673666 FALLEN, £12.66, 01726 861742
BOXFRESH, £16, 020 8371 7554
TOTALLY TROPICAL Prints pack a tropical punch this season, entering the spring season with a mix of palm tree motifs and hedonistic tie-dye finishes. —
NATIVE YOUTH, £7, 020 7739 7620
MIKO SPINELLI, £150, 07733 220672
BRUTUS, £50, 020 7224 4882
FRANKLIN & MARSHALL, £48.50, 020 7488 1380
FLY53, £8, 01905 745884
All prices are wholesale, unless stated otherwise
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The BOOmeRANg eFFeCT Joining the influx of Scandinavian labels making waves with British consumers, sustainable lifestyle label Boomerang is looking to establish its presence in the uk market for autumn/winter 2013. victoria Jackson speaks to CeO Roger kylberg about why now, three decades in, is the right time to travel West to the shores of Britain. —
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Dating back to 1976, Swedish lifestyle brand Boomerang has been at the helm of sustainable fashion since its inauguration. Established by young entrepreneurs Kenneth Andram and Peter Wilton, the label has gone on to achieve brand recognition across its native Sweden, as well as Norwegian, Finish and Danish markets, with its offer of menswear, womenswear, childrenswear and homeware. The UK it seems, however, is fairly late to the party, having only recently caught on to the Boomerang phenomenon, with autumn/winter 2013 just the brand’s second full season. “The UK is a highly competitive and internationally brand-driven market,” says Roger Kylberg, CEO, Boomerang. “But, it’s got to be up to the consumer to decide. The market is shifting, from the consumer being told what to wear, what to read, where to eat and what to drive, to individuals making new choices for themselves, based on taste, desire and price relativity.” With only a handful of accounts to date across the UK, Kylberg reveals the brand’s wholesale strategy for the new season, confidently aiming to open 10 independent doors before the end 2013. “But it has to be the right retailers, in the right location,” he says. “Department store business is important, but not at the cost of independent distribution.” In terms of its own store roll-out ambitions in the UK, Boomerang is keen to look outside London – generally the first set-up for an international brand trying its luck in this market. “We’re looking at several regional locations at the minute,” says Kylberg. “We’re more interested in the right pockets of consumers and brand adjacencies rather than the ‘must-have’ city locations. “The label is well-suited to the more affluent coastal and market town localities, giving us a much better chance to generate and support a localised following for the brand, without incurring prohibitive overheads.” If a driving force was what Boomerang wanted with the appointment of Kylberg in 2010, he has definitely lived up to the challenge so far, strengthening the organisation, putting in place strategic plans for international growth and successfully launching the brand’s global webshop. And all in the two years since joining the close-knit team of 30, based in the brand’s Stockholm headquarters. Taking into consideration the erratic weather conditions of late, it’s possibly the ideal time for Boomerang to try its luck with the shoppers of Britain – especially with its functional yet timeless outerwear, knitwear and shirt options. After a handful of unpredictable seasons in terms of outerwear sales, it seems harsh winters are back for now, and buying outerwear is at the top of
most men’s agendas. It also doesn’t hurt that Scandinavian fashion has never been more en vogue, with labels such as Acne, Norse Projects and Cheap Monday enjoying success in the UK. “In recent years, there has been a development of new Swedish brands, which have driven the overall interest for our design and fashion,” says Kylberg. “We, as a country, have a successful export in industries such as music and design which, in turn, helps to position Sweden on the global ‘cultural and style’ map.” In terms of brand adjacencies, Boomerang is aimed much more at the mainstream market, with Kylberg keen to emphasise that quality will never be compromised. With wholesale prices averaging £50-£142 for outerwear, £36 for denim and between £32 and £50 for knitwear, the brand sits confidently next to the likes of Gant, Boss Green and Tommy Hilfiger, catering for the active, socially responsible consumer who, in the words of Kylberg, “isn’t a slave under the short-term influences in fashion”. He adds, “We strive for a position where the brand delivers a truly Scandinavian lifestyle offer, positioned alongside many of today’s key lifestyle players, offering a contemporary twist on the ‘Scandinavian preppy’ movement.” With over half of its range produced in Europe, including its knitwear in Italy, blazers in Portugal and outerwear in Turkey, quality is at the forefront of the Boomerang design ethos. At the core of each collection lies functional, hardwearing garments, continuing to draw inspiration from its Scandinavian surroundings, as it has done since it was established. One cornerstone of the brand’s philosophy is the Boomerang Effect – a recycling system where the label reuses as much of its range as possible and recycles the material. This even includes each garment that is returned to stores, which is then manipulated into a new creation as part of the brand’s Boomerang Vintage line. An extension of the label’s resourcefulness was the launch of Boomerang Home, an interiors collection launched in 2009. “Our home range was, and still is, a more conceptual way of showing how it’s possible to have a sustainable angle in product line development,” says Kylberg. “Boomerang Home is made of recycled garments, and is in
ROGER KYLBERG
“As a country, we have a successful export in industries such as music and design which, in turn, helps to position Sweden on the global cultural and style map” cooperation with upcoming furniture designers. We’re always looking at ways of developing the Boomerang Effect philosophy.” Development is used frequently in Kylberg’s vocabulary, as he goes on to reveal plans for the launch of Boomerang accessories and footwear in the near future. There is also an aim to expand into the Japanese market at some point, with estimated figures of global Boomerang stockists expected to increase from 306 to 495 in 2014. The focus for now, however, is the UK market, with one of the strongest collections to date for autumn/winter 2013. Denim, for example, is reintroduced for winter, while washed indigo shirts and crisp striped poplins create the ideal layering options. Midnight, baby and bright blues are offset with more neutral tones, including camel, tobacco and seal brown. Key pieces to no doubt whet buyers’ appetites include jacquard weave knits, tough waxed cotton jackets and vintage rugby style polo shirts. With the UK firmly in its sights, Kylberg continues to steer Boomerang in the right direction, bringing it back to its roots each and every season. “The landscape and nature of Stockholm is at the heart of each collection, and that’s something we’ll never change,” says Kylberg. www.boomerang.se
JANUARY 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PREVIEW | 67
JACkeT RequIRed The hottest ticket in town when it comes to menswear trade shows has to be Jacket Required at London’s victoria house. Taking place on 7-8 February, the event promises an ever greater selection of brands and product, with many first-time exhibitors making their way into the building’s Bloomsbury Ballroom. Tom Bottomley selects a choice few. — R E E BO K C L ASSI C S Yes, Reebok, you heard it hear first. The brand with the trainer sole prints once said to be found at a large percentage of burglaries, and also a trainer favourite of 80s terrace boys, has been given a new makeover – now the trainers probably most found on the feet of the Hoxton elite. For 2013, Reebok is focusing on “retro running” shoes, trading on its position as the original running brand. Expect some sharp styles and colourways. Archive models are reintroduced and reworked, featuring key styles such as the 80s Phase 1 and Phase 2 models, the 90s tech Sole trainer and Inferno. —
HART F O R D Hartford is one of those brands that, season after season, delivers timeless classics you know will become your wardrobe best friends. For a/w 13, the collection takes its inspiration from the 40s, when men relied on heavy mountain jackets, thick sweaters and warm scarves to keep out the chills. The range mixes rich materials such as cashmere and tweeds, with sportswear strongly influenced by old military pilot jackets and parkas, sitting along with preppy coloured chinos and sweatshirts. Some notable trends for the new season include velvet and poplin shirts printed with vintage ski graphics, slim pleated trousers, tweed jackets, duffle coats and wool overshirts with cotton linings. —
K LE T T E RW E R K S Founded in Bozeman, Montana, in 1975, by one Dana Gleason, these are handmade backpacks of distinction, constructed out of a love for the great outdoors. With the introduction of Cordura fabrics in the 70s, Gleason began building what were to become some of the most recognised backpacks in the outdoor industry. The name derives from “kletter”, meaning “climbing” in German (a lot of the early kit was inspired by what was made in Europe) and “werks” meaning plant. New to the UK, four fresh styles will be introduced at Jacket Required, and the company has now moved into other accessories such as laptop sleeves and iPad cases. Old school meets new rules. —
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M AJ E ST I C AT HLE T I C A new addition to the show, Majestic Athletic was established in 1976 and has been associated with Major League Baseball (MLB), the National Football League (NFL) and the National Hockey League (NHL) in the US. For s/s 13, Majestic UK is launching Majestic Select – a new Japanese premium line that is driven predominantly by Japan’s love for all things vintage and American lifestyle and culture. Inspired by the inherent drama and heritage of American baseball, current UK stockists apparently include Oi Polloi, Anthem, Well Gosh and Number Six, giving some indication of the level and target market this is aimed at. Adapted by the Tokyo design team, the Majestic Select offer utilises the all-American Major League Baseball logos and vintage-style graphics on classic baseball-inspired satin jackets, coach jackets and shirts. —
I LLU ST R AT E D PE O PLE DUAL-ISM This is a project by Descente, a huge Japanese company specialising in technical performance sportswear, including skiwear and activewear. For a/w 13, there is a specific launch of outerwear with a street appeal, in a collection that features upwards of 35 styles and colours. They’re looking for strategic partners in the UK who stock premium sportswear. There is also a wealth of knowledge to draw from as, since its foundation in 1935, Descente has developed and supplied sportswear that boasts excellent kinetic functionality, comfort and durability through never-ending research. Brand adjacencies it sees as being fitting include Moncler, Nanamica and Stone Island, with wholesale prices sitting between £110 and £277, and retail prices ranging from £299 to £750. —
Another new addition to the only menswear trade show to rock and create a buzz in London, Illustrated People represents “a new era of inspired streetwear.” It’s appropriately graphics-led, as it would be when you consider the studio in the East End where it’s produced, which consists of a team of dynamic designers and illustrators. Heavily showcased are Illustrated People’s signature handprinted illustrations and clever digital pieces that sit alongside vibrant textiles and upbeat colours. It makes you want to throw your hands in the air, like you just don’t care. —
STREET LIFE CAPTURING THE ECLECTIC MIX OF LONDON STREET STYLE —
Jacket: LAVENHAM, price on request, 01787 379535
Parka: AIGLE, £135, 01608 813860 | Jeans: JACK & JONES VINTAGE, £23.30, 020 3205 0340 | Crew-neck jumper: BARBOUR, £33.35, 0191 427 4207 | Shoes: BOXFRESH, £27, 020 8371 7554
Denim jacket: NATIVE YOUTH, £17, 020 7739 7620 | Jumper: NATIVE YOUTH, £11.50 020 7739 7620 | Chinos (just seen): ORIGINAL PENGUIN, £25, 020 7580 5838
Jacket: SCHOTT, price on request, 07957 247411 | Jeans: JACK & JONES VINTAGE, £23.30, 020 3205 0340 | Hat: stylist’s own
Jacket: Barbour, £129.30, 0191 427 4207 | Crew-neck jumper (just seen): BARBOUR, £33.35, 0191 427 4207
Blazer: GUIDE LONDON, £65, 020 7481 1111 | Shirt: FARAH 1920, £24, 020 7927 3973 | Chinos: DR DENIM, £22.50, 020 7739 9988
Shirt: WEEKEND OFFENDER, £29.62, 01332 342068 | Chinos: DR DENIM, £22.50, 020 7739 9988
Blazer: FARAH VINTAGE, £44, 020 7927 3973 | Polo shirt: GABICCI, £ 32, 01442 233700 | Chinos: DR DENIM, £22.50, 020 7739 9988
Pea coat: ORIGINAL PENGUIN, £65, 020 7580 5838 | Shirt: ORIGINAL PENGUIN, £25, 020 7580 5838 | Chinos: ORIGINAL PENGUIN, £25, 020 7580 5838 | Shoes: J SHOES, £50, 01858 468123
£26, 01442 233700 | Chinos: DR DENIM, £22.50, 020 7739 9988 | Boots: J SHOES, £50, 01858 468123 Jacket: VOLCOM, £80, 0845 486 5266 | Jumper: GABICCI,
CREDITS Photographs: Darren Black Model: Ollie at Oxygen Models www.oxygenmodels.com Grooming: Claire Portman using Clinique and Paul Mitchell www.claireportman.com Shot on location at Cherry Bomb Studios, London SE16
— Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale
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FLIP mWB takes a look at some of the hottest brands showcasing at urban, street, denim and lifestyle trade show Flip, taking place on 17-19 February at the NeC, Birmingham. —
GARC I A
PE PE J E ANS From city-slick preppy styling to London-led hipster looks, Pepe Jeans London gets its 40th anniversary birthday party started with a perfectly pitched line-up of menswear must-haves this season. The new Ivy League collection delivers a fashion-forward interpretation of the sports-inspired US varsity story. This season sees references to rugby and rowing in a nod to collegiate team sports where layering is key. The Portobello collection, meanwhile, is full of young, colour-soaked casuals. Photo-print finishes on bright red, blue and green jerseys sit alongside skinny-fit corduroy and slim-fit cargo pants. To finish, Modern Classic sees a contemporary wardrobe of simple-to-layer styles. Workwear themes are punctuated by military references with clean-line, tapered-fit chinos and vintage-wash sweatshirts sharing rail-space with a slim-fit wool blazer, heavy nylon parka and a camo-print hooded jacket. —
BI LL ABO NG Leading surf label Billabong has a history dating back to the 70s, when founder surfer Gordon Merchant and his wife, Rena Merchant, began designing and making their first boardshorts at their home on the East Coast of Australia. The range of products now spans boardshorts, bags, jeans and beachwear for both men and women. The uniqueness, which sets Billabong aside from other boardshorts at the time, was the triple-stitching technique, which made the boardshort more durable and is still present today. Internationally recognised, Billabong is one of the leading names in the surfing industry. The brand is worn by pro surfers and is well-known for its use of print, colour and ever-evolving artist collaborations. —
Established in 1977, Garcia’s core product is men’s and women’s jeans for the 18-45 year old market. This is supplemented by collections covering a range of categories including design-led casual separates, outerwear, knitwear and accessories. From the ‘90s to date, the label has grown into a prominent brand on the continent, with around 25 standalone stores and 2,000 stockists across Europe alone. Today, Garcia has its sights set on gaining a stronger following in the UK, which it plans to achieve by cultivating a solid network of independent retailers. Garcia offers stockists six product drops – three in the spring/summer season and three in autumn/winter – with an additional stock program that runs throughout the year. —
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M O NK E E GE NE S Monkee Genes was born in 2006 out of the frustration of the denim market, to offer something fresh, vibrant and youthful. Today, Monkee Genes is the first and only jeans label to have its unique mix of astute accreditations from The Soil Association and the Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS). Innovative fits and styles in a range of top fabrics are hallmarks of the brand, which caters for both men and women. Classic denim with a retro twist and luscious sateen cottons in pop-art inspired colours are other signature looks buyers can expect to see at Flip this February. —
O’Neill’s lifestyle range has a new design direction for autumn/winter 2013 and is more refined, fashion-forward with slim silhouettes and subtle surf references. Premium fabrics and rich leather details set the quality feel of the collection – highlights of which include tapered chino pants, chunky cable-knits, trim-fit shirts and T-shirts with unique heritage graphics and prints. In addition, the Adventure series sees a new line of lifestyle jackets stacked with functional features yet designed for the streets with waterproof and breathable fabrics. To finish, the Snow Outerwear line is designed with functionality at the forefront with craftsmanship and fabric specialisation not far behind. Traditional weaves like herringbone have been reworked and when prints are used they’re influenced by fabrications and handicrafts such as the Mexican blanket print. —
Street & Sportswear label Timezone is a returning exhibitor to Flip this season, bringing its wide range of fashion apparel, footwear and accessories to the show, supplemented by a large NOS programme of fashionable trouser models. The brand’s mission is to “provide authentic apparel that allows you to keep your individuality and freedom while living up to highest demands on quality.” These ideas live on today in the brand’s GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) campaign, where every season the collection takes its inspiration from another time zone. Buyers can expect to see an enormous selection of commercial jeans, cargos, chinos and shorts from the label, in an expansive colour palette, alongside sportswear and street style jackets, knits and shirts as well as tops and dresses for women. —
JANUARY 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PREVIEW | 90
COPeNhAgeN FAShION Week As Scandinavia continues to be the hub of clean, cool men’s fashion, mWB highlights six of the key names to catch at this month’s CIFF and gallery trade exhibitions, taking place on 31 Jan – 3 Feb 2013 in Copenhagen. —
R E D C O LL AR PRO J E C T Currently stocked in over 500 stores worldwide, across northern Europe, the US, Japan and Australia, Red Collar Project is a well-established name within the menswear industry. Offering a collection of updated classics with innovative details, cuts and fabrics, the brand’s latest collection draws inspiration from urban landscapes with prints formed from smoke, clouds, dots and flecks. Colour palettes, meanwhile, include combat green, cinnamon, grey and burgundy, juxtaposed with neon accents. —
NUNC Danish label NUNC – standing for Nordic Union of Novel Camouflage – is inspired by the Scandinavian man, hunting and outdoor living combined with the clean look of Danish street style. The brand’s signature, simple silhouettes are revised with interesting prints and luxe fabrics for autumn/winter 2013, with the new collection comprising tees, sweats, knitwear, shirts and wool jackets, as well as 14oz Japanese selvage denim. —
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SU R FAC E TO AI R Born in Paris, Surface to Air started life as a creative agency before developing into a clothing line and now successful retail boutique. Stocked here in the UK by the likes of Urban Outfitters and Coggles, the brand’s latest offering can be seen at this month’s Gallery. Drawing inspiration from the 80s in terms of its outerwear offer, buyers can expect to see the brand’s material of choice – leather – with detail in the form of red linings, fur collars and snap closures on its classic bomber, a permanent part of each seasonal collection. —
5PREVIEW Beginning life as a predominantly unisex T-shirt label, 5Preview has since grown into a complete wardrobe collection. This season sees the brand move in a more vintage-inspired direction, with washed and worn-out designs in its Kind of Blues collection. It comes as no surprise that shades of blue dominate the colour palette, combined with black, while silhouettes are inspired by workwear and military uniforms. Eye-catching features include hand-drawn motifs such as the City print, featuring an illustrated version of Rome’s Nolli map. —
BR E AD AND BOXE R S Swedish premium bodywear label Bread and Boxers is making its trade-show debut at Gallery this season, with the aim of expanding outside Scandinavia into other markets. Comprising boxers, T-shirts, tanks and socks, the label is currently sold via a hotel distribution programme. This concept was created when co-founders Alexander Palmgren and Henrik Lindahl’s luggage was lost and the only clothing they had was what they were wearing. This evolved into designing a collection of basics that would be an extension of a hotel mini-bar. —
J O HNNYLOVE Established in Norway in 2006, Johnnylove was founded by designer John Vinnem with the mission of “creating classic menswear with the attitude of Norwegian streetwear”. Sold in independents across Europe and the US, the brand’s autumn/winter 2013 collection is set to be one of the strongest to date, with both tailored and casualwear on offer. Updressed for Everyday Use is the theme for the new season, with sharp architectural lines in a subdued colour palette of grey, olive, bottle green, navy, burgundy and brown. —
BOLD STYLES FOR WINTERY MONTHS. SCARVES ARE OUR WORLD.
MEN S AW 13 COLLECTION VISIT US AT AIMEX SHOW SOLIHULL 29 TH 31 ST JAN 13 T: 020 7486 8916 LOUISE.SMART@FRA AS.COM FRA AS.COM
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SOCIETY The parties and events from in and around the menswear industry.
ANDY TOMPSETT, HEAD OF UK SALES, MERC, AND ALICE ELLIOT, EVENT DIRECTOR, JACKET REQUIRED.
MICHAEL SPRIGGS, DIRECTOR OF MICHAEL SPRIGGS AGENCIES, ROGER MEEKE, DIRECTOR OF SALES FOR BROOK TAVERNER, AND NEAL DAWSON, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF M2C2 LTD.
The menswear industry’s annual pre-Christmas Tie Guild event, sponsored by MWB and Moda Gent, took place last month at London’s Dorchester hotel, welcoming some of the sector’s finest, and best-dressed, figures. —
CALLUM SNEDDON, HEAD OF UK SALES, BJORN BORG, AND VICTORIA JACKSON, EDITOR OF MWB.
CHARLIE PEEL, MENSWEAR BUYER FOR WILLIAM & GRIFFIN, AND TOM BOTTOMLEY, DEPUTY EDITOR OF MWB.
JOHN OAKES, MARKETING MANAGER FOR JOULES, AND LAUREN COOLEY, SALES MANAGER FOR MWB.
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COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.
LITTLE BLACK BooK NHOW BERLIN, GERMANY
SIMoN SAYS At what age does one become a “veteran”? This is the question I’ve been puzzling over recently. The cause for this was an article in Further Education, which was reporting on a talk I gave to a class of 30 students at Kingston College. I was described as “industry veteran Simon Carter”. I shuddered. Coming in the year that I turned 50, all issues of age are sensitive and I need no reminding. I then thought about how long I have been in business, and I suppose 27 years may make me some sort of veteran. I have known my charming manageress, Nuala, in my Crystal Palace store for 20 years through various stores we have worked with. Her experience is invaluable and is one of the reasons the customers love her, and the shop has been such an extraordinary success. My Mayfair store is run by a very cool manager who is in his 60s and looks every bit as stylish as any Hoxton wannabe but without the difficult hair – both are veterans, and all the better for it. The issue of industry veterans came up again recently, in the gilded and chandeliered ballroom at The Dorchester. I was a guest of MWB (thanks Victoria!) and, looking round the room, I thought about just how many of us “veterans” there are. Then I felt a little better. The ever smooth and charming Simon Berwin [MD of menswear supplier Berwin & Berwin] came over. “I like your articles in MWB,” he said. “I particularly liked the last one.” “oh good,” I replied “What was it about?” “Can’t remember,” he said. But, to make up for his hideous faux pas, he did give me a good idea for this month’s column, and it is the subject of people. “Look round this room,” he said. “Look at all the characters. It is people that make this business.” And he’s right. We are lucky to be working in an industry with some big personalities, keeping a tradition alive since the days of Harry Gordon Selfridge. Harold Tillman, Philip Green, Mike Ashley... love ’em or hate ’em, they’re characters. Without lapsing into cliché and the glaringly obvious, we all depend on our staff to keep the show on the road. I’m lucky enough to run the business with my ex-wife, Wendy. We make a good team; I come up with mad ideas and she brings me down to earth. We might sometimes grumble about our staff, but we should remember that we spend more time with them than we do with our partners. Finally, let’s not forget our customers. Sure, we have trying and maddening and rude. But we also have charming, enthusiastic and rewarding. I’m looking forward to working in my stores for a couple of hours this Saturday and next, and actually serving the “front line customers”. So to everyone in our industry, here’s to a characterful 2013. Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores.
Following on from its debut in Milan, the nHow Hotel has opened its doors in Berlin, billed as Europe’s first “music hotel”. Set on the north bank of the river Spree in Friedrichshain, nHow combines the city’s love of fashion, art and music. Equipped with a conference centre, music lounge and its own recording studio, the hotel’s interior takes its inspiration from New York’s pop-art movement, with a choice of rooms in shades of baby blue, hot pink or muted grey. From guitar and keyboard room service, making it possible to have music events and live sessions in a silent rehearsal room, to the buildings eye-catching aluminium skinned upper tower, nHow is a place to add to the bucket list. —
PLAN B
ANDY TOMPSETT HEAD OF UK, MERC
If I was not at Merc, I would have liked to cut it further in the music business. The original band that I played keyboards in was The Dumb Blondes. We got together in the late 70s and released a cover of Bowie’s Sorrow, which is still on YouTube. The Dumb Blondes toured the UK and built a following in Japan. They were also favourites at London’s Marquee Club and 100 Club. The music connections with Merc continues now, as I manage young bands Everafter and Carlito. The latter are ardent wearers of Merc. Of course, I also don’t mind admitting I wanted to be an archeologist. But I guess archeology was too quiet for me. As most would testify, I need to be on a stage, or safely inside a showroom anyway. —
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top tweetS Room 14 Menswear @room14menswear As a small indie, customer service has to be bang on so do me a favour mate & take your headphones out when you come in so we can SERVE you! OPENING CEREMONY
UNDER
CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL Kieron Hurley, creative director, Under I’m currently sporting a pair of grey suede Opening Ceremony M1 boots, yellow ralph Lauren socks, Under ecru waffle parker boxer briefs, Yamane Deluxe jeans, an Under ecru randall crew-neck t-shirt, a red and white striped haversack shirt, and a black cashmere crew-neck knit (brand unknown). — My favourite piece in my wardrobe, however, would have to be my vintage Big E Levi’s 501s. I bought them in American Classics on Kings road around 1987/88. I’m not sure exactly how old they are but, judging by the fit, I’d say they’re late 60s. I paid £25 for them. I’m not sure what they would be worth now, though probably considerably more. I don’t want to sell them, though, because I’m planning to be buried in them. — I don’t wear hats because they make me look even more stupid than I usually do. I’m short-sighted so I have to wear glasses. I get mine from opera opera opticians on endell Street in Covent Garden. the style I wear is called Clive, honestly. It’s a great place – they sell both vintage frames and vintage-inspired styles, all handmade in the UK. — For my torso I, of course, now only wear vests, tees and grandad tops from Under. I’ve put a lot of work into making them spot-on. I tend to struggle with shirts, and rotate old favourites such as vintage turnbull and Asser, J Crew dungaree shirts and ralph Lauren (mainly penny collar and vintage). I do also have a couple of great haversack shirts. — My favourite piece of knitwear is an N Peal cashmere “millionaire” cardigan. It’s 10 years old now but you can’t beat it. My sweats are mainly vintage from the US. I wear patagonia for practicality and I have one bespoke Nick tentis blazer, and a double-breasted coat, which he made for me a few years back – both great. footwear-wise, Common projects and opening Ceremony are my favourites. —
Hilary Alexander @HilaryAlexander Why didn’t Vivienne Westwood or McQueen or Chris Kane or Mary K or anyone design the Miss UK National Costume in Miss Universe… Anthony & Brown @anthonyandbrown “I have never in my life learned anything from any man who agreed with me.” – Dudley Field Malone #inspiration @thefamous1886 We close today after 127 yrs. Online menswear store imminent.....new traditions! David Watts @David_M_Watts Is Alexander McQueen going to make the same mistake with their Skull prints as French Connection did with FCUK? Too much of a good thing? Richard Mark Menswear @mark_enquiries Shop in store and you receive a personal service and product knowledge that you don’t get online! #ShopLocal Anonymous After The Paradise, TV drama is running for the tills again with Mr Selfridge. Are department stores the new Downton? —
three of the BeSt IPAD CASES
Sandqvist, €45 020 3411 7341
Marc Jacobs, price on request, www.marcjacobs.com
Icon Brand, £10 01872 571666
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THE BOTTOMLEY LINE
© Paul Mowatt
MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.
FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
WILLIAMS TO RELIGHT “HEALTHY RIVALRY” WITH GALLAGHER When Robbie Williams was questioned whether launching his Farrell clothing collection was going into direct competition with Liam Gallagher and his Pretty Green line, he said not only did he want it to be better than Pretty Green, but better than Paul Smith, too. Joking aside, Williams did seem peeved that Gallagher had beaten him to it, but the Farrell concept had apparently been burning in the fire for some time before it was realised. The first incarnation was nothing to write home about, but the launch of the a/w 13 collection – to press and buyers – in December shows he now means business. Former Burberry design director Ben Dickens has been drafted in, and it’s a clear sign of intent. The product also looks good. Not too flashy, it’s well-made, wearable with no rock star prices. Buyers at the event were also quite pleased that Williams is not trying to be “the face” of the brand; he would rather let the product do the talking. Having said that, an initial press push using his name is likely to be initiated to get it noticed, though maybe not a full-blown picture of himself clad in a Union Jack – a la Gallagher in the Pretty Green shop window on Carnaby Street – is necessary.
WIGGO WEARS IT WELL And so it was, Bradley “Wiggo” Wiggins, modern day mod, Olympic champion and first British winner of the Tour de France, was crowned BBC Sports Personality of the Year. And he won it by some way, claiming nearly a third of votes, though a lot of those he put down to his nan using the repeat dial. Great to see that this time round, it was a true “personality” who won. He even played The Jam’s That’s Entertainment on a semi-acoustic guitar at the after-show party. But, it was also what he was wearing that was the talk of the town. A bespoke velvet double-breasted Mark Powell “whistle” with
ROBBIE WILLIAMS
BRADLEY WIGGINS AND MARK POWELL
white pearl buttons was as sharp as they come. Powell says, “He’s a great guy to dress because he is so tall and slim, and he is a lot more edgy than a lot of the other sports people. He has charisma and a real perception of style. It’s the sixth bespoke suit I’ve made for him in the last 18 months – all paid for, too!” Good to see celebrity status hasn’t gone to Wiggo’s head. He even joked on stage that the award was an institution in his household, but “second to Only Fools and Horses and Minder.”
SKYFALL WINDFALL Clothing and watches featured in James Bond films seem worth putting your money on. Just ask Ravi Grewal of Stuarts London about the Barbour To Ki To jacket worn by Daniel Craig as 007 in the final scene of Skyfall. He quite literally can’t get enough
BARBOUR’S TO KI TO JACKET
of it. He says that with the jacket retailing at £399, it was tempting to keep buying ratios to a minimum. But, taking a hunch that the film would create a buzz, he booked twice as many as he would have done normally at the sales appointment, where he was initially told of the jacket featuring in the film. Little wonder did he know he should have booked 10 times as many! With around a week to go to the official launch of the film, he began to pre-sell and market the jackets online and in-store. They sold out within 48 hours. The jacket had been made to order, so the chances of replenishment were slim to none. But, Barbour was proactive with a second run, due for December 2012. The good news was given to an ever-increasing waiting list. The second batch sold out again within five hours of being released online. Another two drops – one for January and another for February – have already been pre-sold.
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LAST ORDERS WITH... OLIVER PROUDLOCK Designer, artist and, most recently, reality television star Oliver Proudlock speaks to Victoria Jackson about his design inspirations, favourite shopping haunts and what the future holds for his new label, Serge DeNimes. — Place of birth: London Lives now: Chelsea Date of birth: 23/10/86 Website: www.sergedenimes.com Twitter: @SDNIMES —
When did you make your first foray into design? I’ve always loved art and design. I studied fine art at university, but I wanted a break from painting, so I decided to combine my love for fashion and art and start designing, which is where the launch of Serge DeNimes came into play last year. What was behind the decision to launch Serge DeNimes? I wanted to start with T-shirts simply because I love to wear them, and they’re easy to wear. I also wanted to start with an item I could understand in terms of cut and quality. I’m a perfectionist, so every T-shirt has to have the highest quality and best cut possible – no short cuts! Where did the name Serge DeNimes come from? The name relates to the origin of denim. It comes from a type of sturdy fabric called serge, originally made in Nimes, France, by the Andre family. Originally called serge de nimes, after Nimes in France, the name was soon shortened to denim. So is a denim a direction you want to head in? I would love to expand into other areas. I’d like to move into the apparel sector, designing denim, jumpers, caps, accessories and bags, as well as lifestyle products such as cologne. Where do you draw your inspiration from in terms of design? I’m inspired by my surroundings, so when I’m drawing or designing I focus on what’s inspiring in my life at that moment in time; something that is powerful and also relevant.
What would you say is the best thing about what you do? Every day is different, and there is never a dull moment. It’s also rewarding to see an idea develop into a design and then a final project. I’m very lucky because I’m passionate about what I do. There isn’t a bad thing about this job, but, of course, there are stressful times in terms of deadlines and putting together all the information for my factory – it seems to take forever. What inspires you in terms of style? I like the style of the 70s. I used to raid my dad’s wardrobe. I also think 90s grunge is memorable. Two of my favourite designers at the moment are Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren, the latter who, along with actor Johnny Depp and musician and fashion designer Pharrell Williams, is a style icon of mine. Where do you shop? It depends on where I’m based, but I love Acne, Ralph Lauren, All Saints, Reiss, The Kooples, and Serge DeNimes, of course. And finally, what are wearing right now? An All Saints jumper, jeans, boots and a Theo Fennell necklace.
QUICK FIRE QUESTIONS — Who is your mentor? My dad — I wish I could resist… Chocolate — Growing up, I always wanted to be… an artist — One piece of advice I’d give my 16-year-old self would be... Watch less TV and work more! — What’s the one thing you can’t live without? My glasses – I wouldn’t be able to see a thing! —
Ho, ho, ho! Well, if it isn t fat stinking billy goat Billy Boy in poison! How art thou, thou globby bottle of cheap, stinking chip oil? Come and get one in the yarbles, if ya have any yarbles, you eunuch jelly thou! A Clockwork Orange