CWB 101

A FRESH LOOK AT KIDS’ FASHION, FOOTWEAR AND LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS

www.cwb-online.co.uk August/September 2016 Issue 101 £9.95

MODA FOOTWEAR Preview of the children’s s/s 17 collections IT’S A RAP Behind the scenes at the Portuguese children’s footwear brand, RAP BREXITING THE FUTURE OF UK BUSINESS What post-EU contracts could mean for the industry

Incorporating

SCHOOLWEAR BUYER:

LONDON

meliamelia.com

See things differently...

29 & 30 January 2017 Business Design Centre www.bubblelondon.com #madeyoulook

CONTENTS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CONT ENTS:

14

16 40

24 REGULARS

FEATURES

05: Comment

18: Twenty Questions Q&A with Ruth Robinson, owner of Freckled Frog and winner of the Best Online Store category in the CWB Independent Retail Awards 2015

06: News 08: NCWA 10: Open for Business Legal and business advice plus industry opinion 14: Retail Therapy Store profiles and retail news 16: Brands to Watch Editor’s pick of brands 46: Style Guide Socks

20: Brexiting the future of UK business The consequences for contracts made by businesses post EU referendum 22: Face of Base Childrenswear independent Base on its Face of Base campaign

47: Laura Loves The coolest products for kids

24: Wild & Gorgeous I Love Gorgeous rebrands to Wild & Gorgeous and launches boyswear

66: Talking Point: Mark Tweed, UK sales director, Cyberjammies

26: Star appeal Bubble London’s s/s 17 Rising Star Award winner, Noook 28: Hot steppers Footwear from this season’s Bubble London 30: Fashion focus Fashion picks from Bubble London s/s 17

Bobux 01280 701683 / 07808 730176 www.bobux.co.uk

32: Nursery & lifestyle focus Product picks from Bubble London s/s 17

34: It’s a RAP Insight into the Portuguese children’s footwear brand RAP 40: Small wonders Preview of Moda Footwear’s s/s 17 kids’ collections 44: Fit for purpose SATRA on children’s shoe fitting 45: Top Drawer A/W16 Preview of the kids’ gifts on offer at the a/w 16 show

SCHOOLWEAR 51: Schoolwear News 60: Schoolwear Association Update Now in its 10th year, the SA has become the voice of its industry.

CWB provides a run-down of the Association’s current agenda, including the formation of new executive teams and the launch of guidelines for schools to clarify specifying and sourcing uniform.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 03

t n e d n e Indep REtail Awa rds

•2016•

COM MENT: Alongside reviewing Bubble London and the wider s/s 17 season, this issue’s key theme is footwear, including an extensive preview of the children’s footwear collections showing at this month’s Moda Footwear.

Another topic of discussion is obviously Brexit, something we will be addressing in various forms over the coming months as we glean more facts, figures and industry feedback. This issue’s Brexit report, Brexiting the future of UK business, on page 20, sees Fox Williams LLP’s commercial law partner Stephen Sidkin and intellectual property law partner Simon Bennett examine the consequences for contracts made by businesses following the EU referendum vote. Next issue, we will be speaking to business owners themselves – retailers and brands – to discover what provisions they may be putting in place for what is unquestionably an uncertain future.

As mentioned, footwear is a key focus this edition, including an exclusive preview of the children’s collections showing at Moda Footwear on 7-9 August at Birmingham’s NEC, starting on page 40.

Elsewhere, CWB writer Rebecca Jackson reports back from sunny Porto, where she visited the offices and factory of familyrun Portuguese children’s shoe brand, RAP. Her feature on page 34 provides a wonderful insight into a company whose strategy, ethics and forward thinking approach to design, really make it one of a kind. (Those visiting this season’s Moda Footwear can see the brand’s shoes in the flesh on stand G59.)

Our visit to Bubble London this season provided plenty of new s/s 17 product inspiration, some of which we captured in an on-site photo shoot at uShoot Studios.

Check out our pick of the show’s fashion, lifestyle and nursery product starting on page 30. Also, meet this season’s

Editor Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Contributors Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Designers Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales executive Michele Ali michele@ras-publishing.com Subscriptions data@ras-publishing.com Head of childrenswear Lindsay Hoyes lindsay@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics/printing Image Data Group Ltd 01482 652323

CWB is published 6 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 www.cwb-online.co.uk Copyright© 2016 CWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

COMMENT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Bubble London Rising Star Award winner, toy brand Noook, on page 26, who was selected as the show’s best launch brand.

And, in keeping with the footwear theme, we also bring you our pick of Bubble London’s footwear exhibitors in our feature Hot Steppers on page 28.

In schoolwear we get the lowdown from the Schoolwear Association (SA), including its formation of new executive teams, the launch of guidelines for schools to clarify specifying and sourcing uniform, continued work on the Every Child is Worth It campaign and its plans for October’s Schoolwear Show and this year’s SA fundraiser.

For all retailers reading this, don’t forget that the closing date for entries into the CWB Independent Retail Awards is 30 September. It’s free, quick and easy to apply: just head to our website at www.cwb-online.co.uk, chose your category, and complete the application form. Winners of last year’s awards have enjoyed a host of benefits, from local and national media press to new collaborations and partnerships – don’t miss the opportunity to do the same.

Laura Turner Editor

CWB is a joint venture between ITE Moda Ltd and the National Childrenswear Association.

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication CWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles include WWB and MWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group company.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 05

NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CWB NEWS: PORTFOLIO GROWTH FOR POTWELLS TRADING

BUBBLE LONDON ENJOYS POSITIVE SEASON Bubble London closed on a positive note for s/s 17, with the second day of the show seeing visitor numbers increase by six per cent yearon-year. Higher numbers of East Asian visitors were present, with powerful buying groups from China’s JD Worldwide and Netease Kaola in attendance.

New maternity and nursery area Bubble Bump, edited by Maternity Buyer’s Liz Pilgrim, saw a successful launch. POP, meanwhile, returned for a second season, providing pop-up stands at a lower price point for newcomers and smaller labels. Alongside this were big-name brands such as Angulus, Guess Kids, Camper, Toms, Jessie & James, Kissy Kissy, Hatley and The Bonnie Mob. Commenting on the show, event director Lindsay Hoyes says, “The traditional trade show format is changing as rapidly as the retail landscape that it relies upon. We are working hard to ensure the show is as relevant to exhibitors and retailers now as it was when the show launched in 2008.” Bubble London a/w 17 will take place on 29-30 January 2017.

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LITTLE MISS AOKI LAUNCH Launched for s/s 17, Little Miss Aoki is the new collection by haute couture childrenswear label Mischka Aoki.

Designed to target a wider consumer market, Little Miss Aoki offers lower price points than the mainline Mischka Aoka collection.

Comprising 30 pieces, the debut offering sees fashion forward dresses featuring the brand’s signature use of tulle and embroidery alongside some fun and playful silhouettes.

The colour theme includes bold pinks and soft pastels.

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New UK distributor of children’s brands Potwells Trading continues to expand its portfolio with the addition of BoBo Buddies, a brand of functional soft toys.

BoBo Buddies will work with Potwells Trading as its exclusive British distributor in order to strengthen and develop relationships with major and independent children’s retailers across the UK. The BoBo Buddies collection includes its flagship toddler backpacks with reins, as well as a recently launched baby collection featuring comforters, blankets, teethers, rattles and teddy bears.

Established in 2015, Potwells Trading is also exclusive UK distributor for Aloka SleepyLight, 3 Sprouts, Zoocchini, Lulujo and Flapjack Kids.

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MOLO STRENGTHENS INTERNATIONAL PRESENCE Within the last year, Danish kidswear brand Molo has opened three new showrooms, complete with sales forces, in Paris, New York and Düsseldorf.

Since opening the doors of its first store in Hong Kong just one year ago, Molo’s international focus has continued to widen to cater for more new markets, both in and outside Europe.

Molo’s recently opened Düsseldorf showroom has already seen high footfall, helping strengthen the brand’s bond with existing customers in Germany such as KaDeWe, Alsterhaus and Breuninger.

“Showrooms, with our own sales forces, where the collection is physically accessible, are a vital part of establishing a strong brand experience in our own universe,” says Molo founder, Mogens Jepsen.

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BREXIT – THE IMPACT ON FASHION RETAIL The referendum result in favour of Brexit will ensure inflation returns to the clothing and footwear sector, owing to the sharp decline in the pound and the expectation that it will remain weak for some time, resulting in increased import costs, the most recent analysis by Verdict Retail has predicted.

A report into the impact of Brexit on UK fashion retail reveals that currency hedging will protect retailers in the short term, but higher costs are expected to filter in from the back end of Q2 2017. Only once Article 50 is invoked, and new trade agreements reached, will retailers have more visibility on any changes to tariffs that could further drive up costs. Re-evaluation of supply chains will be crucial to remain competitive.

The report warns that few clothing players will be able to fully absorb increased costs, or risk weakening margins, resulting in price hikes for consumers, which will most likely damage volume growth. With pressure piled on small independents, which are less able to withstand margin erosion compared to larger rivals, there is potential for consolidation in the market.

Midmarket players will be able to justify higher prices through investment in style, quality and service; in contrast price increases at value retailers will be much more evident and remaining competitive will be crucial to appeal to more prudent shoppers.

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CWB INDEPENDENT RETAIL AWARDS 2016 Entries for the CWB Independent Retail Awards 2016 are open until 30 September. Applying is quick and free of charge: UK independents simply need to log on to www.cwb-online.co.uk, select their award category, fill in the online application form, and send store images to CWBRetailAwards@ras-publishing.com.

This year’s award categories include the new addition of Best Baby Store, open to UK independents who specialise exclusively in newborn and baby essentials, including infant clothing, nursery product and maternitywear.

Other categories are Best Kids’ Independent Store, Best Online Store, Best New Store, Best Footwear Store and Best Schoolwear Store.

For details on how to sponsor a CWB Independent Retail Award, email michele@ras-publishing.com.

— AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 06

NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

PRINCE GEORGE THE INFLUENCER

DISNEY X CATH KIDSTON Disney and Cath Kidston have announced their first collaborative collection, a limited edition range, which is planned to run over a number of seasons.

Produced in creative collaboration, Cath Kidston utilises Disney archives to source original character illustrations which will be integrated seasonally into its designs and prints. The first characters to appear are those from Winniethe-Pooh, to coincide with the character’s 90th anniversary in October. The Winnie-the-Pooh collection will be available exclusively in UK Cath Kidston stores and online from 26 September, and overseas from 27 September. A second collection, featuring Mickey and Minnie Mouse, will arrive in-store and online on 5 December.

Disney prints will be available across all Cath Kidston categories, including kids, fashion, accessories and homeware. Further collections and Disney characters are set to roll out over time.

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DIDRIKSONS APPOINTS NEW AGENT Swedish clothing brand Didriksons has appointed Mary Williams as its new sales agent for London and the south east, representing the adults’, kids’ and youth collections.

Having worked in various distribution channels, Williams brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise to the role. Her experience includes working in the country clothing and equestrian industries, with leading brands such as Westgate and Aerborn. More recently, she held the title of principal sales agent in London and the south east for family lifestyle brand Joules, where she oversaw the rapid growth and increased distribution of the brand’s adult and childrenswear collections.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

Parents see Prince George as the biggest style icon for their toddlers, with over a third saying they base their child’s style on his fashion looks, according to research from omnichannel marketing leader, Rakuten Marketing.

Results also showed how endorsement from influencers can cause parents to regularly spend up to an additional £100 on clothing for their children, highlighting the influence celebrity kids have over parents making the decision to buy.

Other findings revealed that almost a third of parents have bought an item of clothing after seeing photos of a celebrity child wearing it, or ‘endorsing’ it online. On average in fact, parents spend nearly a fifth more on children’s clothing versus their own each year, with parents spending £567 in an average year per child, compared to £490.20 on themselves individually.

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DEVELOPMENTS FOR LITTLE LULU’S Since launching last year, premium baby shoe brand Little Lulu’s has seen impressive growth.

New styles added to the latest s/s 17 range include brogues in fun colour combinations, such as lime and white or brown and peach, and the Carmen sandal (pictured), which is decorated with multicoloured pom-poms. Bestsellers have also been refreshed with additional colours, including the classic Matilda style, now available in cream and white.

Little Lulu’s shoes are handmade in ecofriendly nappa leather and come packaged in a clear box with a branded canvas dust bag, bow and gift tag.

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TOOTSA EMBRACES THE AMAZON Several key new styles feature in this season’s collection from unisex childrenswear label Tootsa. Inspired by the vibrant colours, wildlife and scenery of the Amazonian rainforest, key new pieces for s/s 17 include denim shorts that transform into dungarees via a removable bib and straps, a dress with exotic bird embroidery and T-shirts printed with friendly sloths. New waterproof packable jackets are also available in three Amazonian-inspired repeat prints.

To complete the collection, Tootsa’s bestselling quilted rainbow denim jacket returns with the introduction of a second design (pictured), featuring two birds flying over a rainbow, appliquéd on to dark denim with new circle shaped quilting.

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— The next edition of leading manufacturing show Fashion SVP will take place on 15-16 November at London’s Olympia. Held over two days, the event offers the latest information on sourcing, hosting a hand-picked selection of manufacturers able to meet the varied demands of retailers, brands, designers and large importers. Leading suppliers from the UK, Europe and Mediterranean region will be present, showcasing their products and services.

JUNE SEES CONSUMER SPENDING SLOW Consumer spending slowed in June, with only a 0.9 per cent annual rate growth in the UK, according to the Visa’s UK Consumer Spending Index. Amid economic and political uncertainty, the report revealed June rounds off the weakest quarterly growth in two years, with Visa stressing that the full impact of the referendum result has yet to be felt.

It states that the 2016 second quarter, ending 30 June, had witnessed the weakest spending since the first quarter of 2014, with June growth being only slightly more than May’s 0.8 percent annual increase, which had then marked a 27-month low.

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— John Lewis is expanding its international presence via a partnership with Australian department store Myer to open shop-in-shops within six of its branches. The first shop-in-shop will open before Christmas in Myer’s newly refurbished Warringah store in the outskirts of Sydney. This will be followed by additional openings in Melbourne, Perth, Bondi, Chadstone and Myer’s flagship store in Sydney in February 2017.

— Retail tech start-up NearSt aims to bridge £4bn in sales for high street retailers in the UK by connecting products in local shops to smartphones. The platform allows people to order products for instant collection and 1-hour delivery, beating any other existing offer from online sites such as Amazon.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 07

NCWA NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

NCWA NEWS: The latest news from the National Childrenswear Association EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT: It is far too early to know what the result of the EU referendum will mean for the childrenswear industry and for the British economy as a whole. Formal negotiations on the UK’s exit will take up to two years and we do not yet know when they will begin. Whilst there is bound to be continuing concern and uncertainty, there should be no immediate change to our current trading arrangements. The main challenge will probably be that of exchange rates, particularly the value of the £ to the $, as so many Far East currencies are linked to the latter.

Post Brexit, most existing trade agreements with non-EU countries should remain unchanged, not least because the UK and all other EU members are individual members of the World Trade Organisation, even though it is the EU (which is also a member) which has negotiated these agreements on their behalf. What is not at all clear is whether the UK will be a member of the Single Market, thus ensuring duty-free access to the EU, when freedom of movement of capital, goods, services and people are a prerequisite.

Nor is it clear what the attitude of non-EU countries will be towards negotiating trade deals in the future with a UK which is not a member of the EU. Whether or not we shall have to go to ‘the back of the queue’ may well depend on how much those countries export, or wish to export, to the UK. Similarly, whilst the rest of the EU might wish to see UK exports to them subject to full customs duties, this would mean the same for their own exports to the UK. Much EU environmental legislation has been designed to meet international Climate Change agreements. Following such legislation could also be a condition for trading with the EU, or even the rest of the world, so I do not anticipate any dramatic change here. What may be more problematic is how the UK has any influence over changes to that legislation in a post-Brexit era.

On commercial law, including that on commercial agents, it is possible that changes may come in the future, but Parliament’s legislative programme will be extremely busy and it seems likely that there will be other priorities, even if the Government were minded to amend the Commercial Agents’ Regulations. Finally, on Standards, there seems to be no reason why the UK, through the British Standards Institution, will not remain a member of CEN, the European Standards Organisation. There are already non-EU members of CEN. The downside to this good news is that the UK will have no influence over EU policy on Standards and, in particular, on work that may be mandated to CEN, as the work on cords and drawstrings was some years ago. The importance of NCWA’s work in the European Working Group on the Safety of Childrenswear, and indeed in other Working Groups, will be even greater.

NCWA will be doing all it can to look after the interests of its members and to ensure that their views are taken into account in the discussions and negotiations over the UK’s exit from the European Union over the coming months, as well as keeping them up to date on all developments. If you wish to be involved in this, but are not a member, do contact Michelle Payne at NCWA, 3 Queen Square, London WC1N 3AR, tel: 020 7843 9488, e-mail: info@ ncwa.co.uk or look at our website, www.ncwa.co.uk. Membership is open to manufacturers and suppliers, retailers (of all sizes) and agents. Associate membership is available to those providing services to the industry and to those based abroad. The months and years ahead will give us an even greater challenge than usual, so do ‘come on board’.

Elizabeth P Fox

NCWA Council: Chairman: DAVID HULL Agent Vice Chairman: VIRGINIA ROSS Pollyanna Retailer Imm Past Chairman: SHARON BEARDSWORTH Emile et Rose Manufacturer Treasurer: DAVID BURGESS David Luke Ltd Manufacturer

Executive Director: ELIZABETH FOX

www.atticusandgilda.co.uk Online store Atticus & Gilda gained its name through a combined effort from owners Lucy Gaiger and Conchita-Maria Scott. Scott’s love of the novel To Kill a Mockingbird led to a fondness of the name Atticus, a character in the book. Meanwhile, Gaiger chose the name Gilda based on the 1946 film of the same name. Stocking a selection of own brand premium nightwear and accessories, pieces are typically made in the UK and India and utilise cotton, linen and silk fabrics.

TWO FOOT NOTHING Avenue 4, the Covered Market, Oxford, Oxfordshire, OX1 3DZ Located within the historic Covered Market in Oxford, Two Foot Nothing is well positioned among other craft-focused stores to serve up its selection of accessories and apparel to the many tourists and locals that pass through here day after day. Specialising in independent, organic and Fair Trade labels, visitors can shop a range of clothing from the likes of Organics for Kids, Hatley, Bryony & Co., Pigeon Organics, Frugi, Melissa & Doug, Le Toy Van, Orange Tree Toys and Boboli.

Make your voice heard

Council Members: MARK BARNETT Barnett Agencies Agent NUALA MCKENNA Nuala McKenna Agencies Agent DIANE SHAW Agent SARAH TAYLOR Agent MALCOLM TRAVIS Travis Designs Manufacturer RACHEL RILEY Rachel Riley Manufacturer JILLIAN PETRIE Young Trend Retailer DAVID PARKER Baby Melanie Retailer President: KEN SCATES Marketing consultant Vice Presidents: LESLEY FALLON Retail consultant JACKIE COOK Retail consultant

ATTICUS & GILDA

• Membership is open to everyone involved in the British childrenswear industry.

Read our blog and follow us on Twitter

• Associate membership, open to non-British organisations, is now available.

• Membership costs from £95.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 08

NCWA NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BLADE & ROSE LAUNCHES TOYS British children’s clothing brand Blade & Rose, which specialises in leggings and clothing accessories, is introducing toys to coordinate with part of its collection.

Launching for a/w 16, highlights include a cat, dinosaur and monster toy, all with matching leggings featuring the brand’s trademark design on the bottom.

Blade & Rose, which has stockists all over the world including Germany, Switzerland, France, Spain, Belgium, Italy, Netherlands, Greece, Japan, China, Taiwan, UAE, New Zealand and Australia, is now extensively rolling out in the USA. Plans are to continue extending the clothing range with matching accessories and new designs.

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ANGEL’S FACE SPREADS ITS WINGS

TOTS BOTS X JOULES

British girlswear brand Angel’s Face is introducing new versatile pieces for a/w 16/17.

Highlights include the new fully-lined, super-soft Princess Skirt available in six colours.

New chunky knits also feature, including a cape, jumpers and hat and mittens. Meanwhile, a new vintage-inspired capsule collection of lace offers co-ordinating skirts and knitwear, while the brand’s new luxurious faux fur snood offers an opulent cover-up.

More casual options include a loungewear collection, offering soft joggers and hoodies, and the brand’s new signature slouch T-shirt, which is available in long or short sleeve with a shimmering wings design on the reverse.

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UK cloth nappy brand Tots Bots has released a print design collaboration with British lifestyle brand, Joules. The nappies see Joules’ signature prints – Annabella Floral and Farmer Joules – combined with the design expertise of Tots Bots’ EasyFit Star nappy.

“We are so excited to finally unveil the collaboration with Joules and we couldn’t be happier with the final prints,” says Tots Bots founder, Fiona Smyth. “For the past 15 years we’ve been absolutely committed to encouraging parents to choose cloth. Not only is this better for the environment, but it’s much more comfortable for baby and will save money, too. By collaborating with Joules, a renowned British brand, we hope this will help spread this message and look forward to welcoming Joules fans to the lovely world of cloth nappies.”

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RACHEL RILEY STRENGTHENS TEAM

KITE INCREASES COLLECTIONS

S/S 17 WINNERS FOR EMILE ET ROSE

British children’s label Rachel Riley has taken on two new agents, bringing the total number up to four, covering most of the UK. The brand began working with Orchard Agency three seasons ago to cover London and the south-east of the UK, with Nuala McKenna appointed two seasons ago to cover Ireland and Northern Ireland. Most recently, for s/s 17, the brand began working with David Hull for the north of England and Sarah Taylor, for the Midlands and Wales.

Rachel Riley designs, manufactures and retails clothing and accessory collections four times per year for boys, girls, babies and ladies.

The brand’s design philosophy is rooted in tradition, inspired by the 40s, 50s and 60s, with fine tailoring, hand smocking and embroidery and vintage-inspired prints key.

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Childrenswear brand Kite launched both a spring and summer collection for the first time this season, providing more choice than ever before.

Its unisex baby range returns with a fresh new look and the summer collection, designed to complement spring, features more transitional and high-summer styles, with new designs including sundresses and swimwear.

Commenting on the new Spring and Summer collections, which are inspired by the theme Around the World in 80 Days, Kite’s product director, Jo Spragg, says, “We’ve had a great time exploring our theme of ‘Around the World in 80 Days’ and have whiled away many an hour thinking about where we would go and what we would do. Get ready to enjoy those fabulous long summer days with this range which is perfect for paddling, picnicking or any other little adventure.”

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Hero pieces in the latest s/s 17 collection from babywear brand Emile et Rose include new knitwear designs. For girls, there is a two-piece set and a delicate dress with knitted pink yoke and a white lawn skirt. For boys, the knit romper and a two-piece set with subtle striped effect is key.

Other winners this season include a Prince George-style romper for boys, along with nautical styles, stripes and pin tucks. A focus for girls is diamante trim detailing found in the form of bows and tiny bunnies.

Accessories play a strong part in Emile et Rose’s seasonal offer and continue to grow in popularity with s/s 17 seeing a new cap and fisherman’s hat for boys and a frilled sun hat for girls.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

– Rolling Stones guitarist Ronnie Wood and his wife Sally chose a Frugi Buzzy Bee blanket to wrap their twins Gracie Jane and Alice Jane for their front page interview in a recent issue of Hello! magazine.

– NCWA retail members are reminded that the closing date for the CWB Independent Retail Awards is 30 September. To enter, simply visit www.cwb-online.co.uk, select your award category and complete the online entry form. Accompanying store images can be emailed to CWBRetailAwards@ras-publishing. com.

– John Lewis has confirmed it will be opening a shop in Chelmsford, alongside the wider Bond Street development, on Thursday 29 September. The 90,000 sq ft Chelmsford shop represents an £18m investment by the retailer.

As well as offering over 65,000 fashion, beauty, home and electrical products, the shop will bring together services such as a beauty treatment room, a Foreign Exchange bureau and a Nursery Advice service.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 09

BUSINESS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Open for BUSINESS Bringing you straight-talking legal and business advice.

RICHARD KOLODYNSKI Senior vice president of European Operations at iVend Retail

AUDREY WILLIAMS is an employment law partner at Fox Williams LLP

www.ivend.com

THE HEIGHT OF FASHION: HIGH HEELS AND DISCRIMINATION? The recent news story about a receptionist sent home because she refused to wear high heels, has led to an online petition, urging Parliament to make it illegal for employers to impose requirements for women to wear high heels. Such is the level of concern the petition had received 149,000 signatures by end of June.

Is a law needed?

Introducing legislation to address personal appearance in the workplace or just what shoes can be worn, is difficult: balancing an employer’s dress code and personal choice.

When considering a dress code policy or standards, legal considerations should focus on ensuring that there is no unlawful discrimination or disadvantage which focuses on particular groups such as women, those with disabilities, racial or religious groups within the workforce.

Current law What we see from the existing laws and cases is that the courts are loath to intervene and where they have set out guidelines, have done this in general terms: simply saying that an employer must be “even handed”.

For example, whilst maintaining a particular standard of smartness, tailoring or wearing the employer’s fashion line (e.g. the current season’s collection), the reality is you cannot impose exactly the same rules for men and women. Some years ago the Department of Work and Pensions faced claims from men complaining that they were required to wear ties to work when women were not and that this amounted to direct sex discrimination.

The Court decided it was not less favourable treatment because different but similar constraints were placed on women.

Greater care needs to be taken with other types of personal characteristics: particularly limits or prohibitions on jewellery and specifically religious symbols; recent dress code cases have ranged from concerns or complaints about dreadlocks or a visible cross, to wearing a full veil or a hijab.

Don’t be too rigid Special protection exists for employees or potential recruits who have disabilities.

Given that they have to be accommodated (an employer must make reasonable adjustments) an organisation would be expected to allow flexibility and this extends to dress and appearance. Say for example, an employer whose fashion line is tailored clothing, has an individual who has eczema which means that wearing a tight collar and tie aggravates their condition. The individual could seek a relaxation of the rules, and it is unlikely an employer will be able to say that it is reasonable to refuse this given the circumstances.

A happy medium So, reflect your current designs by all means but do not be too stringent especially where there are underlying religious beliefs, for example around modesty or health conditions, which lead to an employee seeking variations.

The height of a particular shoe is sensitive in this sense: there is an understandable preference for employers to require employees to have ‘smart shoes’, but that does not translate to a particular height; higher heels are associated only with women and tend to be a condition only imposed on women. On top of which there may be arguments around health and safety requirements and indeed health conditions, such as back injuries or back conditions, feet and ankles. www.foxwilliams.com www.fashionlaw.co.uk © Fox Williams LLP 2016

THE FUTURE OF MOBILE: WHAT’S IN-STORE? Done right, mobile has the potential to revolutionise the customer experience. Yet, while many organisations are already seeing the benefits from a mobile-first e-commerce strategy, most are not using this platform to its full capability in an omnichannel environment.

Omnichannel can be an overused word, but the reason we’re still talking about it is because we haven’t yet delivered it. Indeed, our recent consumer research showed 40 per cent of UK shoppers thought they were more likely to have a disappointing experience in-store than online. This suggests fashion retailers are falling short of meeting the high levels of personalisation customers have become accustomed to receiving online and now expect to be mirrored across all channels, including the physical environment.

Mobile is the best way to bring digital shopping capabilities into the physical environment – whether that’s looking up inventory at the shelf edge, placing orders for items available online that are out of stock in-store, or drawing on product information or reviews to convert an in-store sale.

Data analytics can help empower store associates to personalise shopper experiences, and business intelligence will have a powerful impact on loyalty schemes, too. Mobile is the one device that consumers use during their e-commerce and bricks-and-mortar retail encounters, and so presents the ideal channel through which to run loyalty schemes.

Not only that, but store staff can use this data to tailor customer experiences based on their lifetime value. In addition to encouraging further spending, running a mobile loyalty scheme is also likely to generate greater organic take-up, as loyal customers recommend it to their family and friends.

Today’s omnichannel shoppers don’t differentiate between channels; they just shop using the option that’s most convenient at the time. This makes delivering a seamless experience all the more important. Shoppers don’t separate channels, so fashion retailers must ensure fluidity and visibility between them – and this is where mobile can bridge the digital divide.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 10

BUSINESS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Three footwear retailers discuss how business has fared over the summer season.

— LISA COULBORN Owner, Little Goody New Shoes, Bury, Greater Manchester

Which are your current bestselling brands?

Overall, I stock the top three winners of best children’s brands (Ricosta, Lelli Kelly and Geox), and I would say these are my current bestselling brands.

What are the latest trends customers are buying into for kids’ shoes?

I am being asked a lot for canvas shoes, but the most common style I am asked for is the Converse high-top style.

Do you sell school shoes? If so, to what extent does Back to School boost your sales?

This coming Back to School (BTS) season will be my first. I would hope that BTS will boost my sales greatly. Up to now, I estimate school shoes are approximately 15-20 per cent of my sales, but I hope to build on that after this year.

How do you set your business apart from competitors?

I try to concentrate on my own business as much as I can and try to be the best that I can be. I use social media a lot and communicate with my customers and followers about stock, services, footwear trivia, health tips and information. I am also increasing my exposure at as many local events as possible. As long as I have good quality, good looking shoes and I use all my training and experience so far to fit to the best of my ability, I can serve the children of my area well and be a success.

Are you feeling optimistic about the rest of 2016?

I am feeling optimistic about the rest of 2016. I am apprehensive about BTS but I will use it as another learning experience to make it even better next year. As long as I continue getting good feedback and building my customer base, I will be happy.

JANE SHELBOURNE Owner, Little Angel Shoes, Godalming, Guildford, Surrey

How has trade fared for you so far this year?

Very reasonable. Parents are still looking for quality shoes. Bobux, Petasil, Bo-Bell, Hummel and Sun-San Saltwater have all sold very well this summer. In Surrey, buyers are looking for classic hardwearing shoes that have excellent design and good styling.

Have customer buying habits altered in any way this year?

Yes. Buyers are looking for good value for money and take their time to make a decision. Impulse buying has really reduced.

We also provide good quality school shoes and have a very loyal following who we often only see at BTS time.

Where are you doing your footwear buying this season?

We are always on the outlook for new brands – every time we travel we look at what is available in different countries. We constantly talk to other retailers across the UK and Europe to source recommendations for new brands and of course attend as many shows as we can.

How do you set your business apart from competitors?

Service and attention to detail. We would never sell a pair of shoes that were a poor fit even if we lost the sale. Product knowledge is essential and we work with many podiatrists and hospitals to provide a service for children who need footwear that accommodates any special requirements they have. We are just entering our fifth year of business and can see a very considerable change in the market.

We now understand what our customers want and how to buy for their changing needs and of course how fashion is influencing their choices.

SUE LAMB AND CAROLYN CORR Business partners, Shoebedoo, Brimstage, Wirral, Merseyside

What are the latest trends customers are buying into for kids’ shoes?

Patent for girls is always popular. Parents want a shoe that can do everything: be smart enough for special occasions but also look just as good with casual wear.

Have customer buying habits altered in any way this year?

Customers are more cost conscious. Whilst they will start off the school year with good shoes, they are prepared to buy supermarket brands half way through. They may also just buy one pair of high quality shoes and a cheaper sports or casual style rather than purchase two pairs from ourselves.

Do you sell school shoes? If so, to what extent does Back to School boost your sales?

School shoes form a huge percentage of our yearly sales. The main season is the summer holidays; however, Easter and Christmas also play a big part in our overall sales. We could not survive on fashion alone How do you set your business apart from competitors?

We offer a personal touch. Many of our customers, now at school age, have only ever purchased their shoes from Shoebedoo. We grow our customer base by word of mouth and we also offer a loyalty scheme, as well as being active on social media and our website. We have also worked with a special needs school in the local area, going along to their classrooms and measuring children’s feet – many of whom, because of autism, are normally not able to visit us.

Are you feeling optimistic about the rest of 2016?

Very optimistic about BTS; however, the weather, the pound v the euro and increased costs from Europe following the referendum mean that the rest of 2016 is still very much an unknown quantity. But we are always hopeful.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 11

CWB AWARDS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

nt

Independe REtail Awa rds

•2016•

CELEBRATING INDEPENDENT CHILDRENSWEAR RETAIL Independent retailers across the UK are invited to nominate their stores for one of the following CWB Independent Retail Awards categories: BEST KIDS’ INDEPENDENT STORE

BEST ONLINE STORE

BEST NEW STORE

The Best Online Store category is open to independent retailers across the UK who do not have a bricks and mortar shop and trade exclusively online in children’s apparel, footwear and accessories.

The Best New Store category is open to independent retailers across the UK who trade solely in children’s apparel, footwear and accessories and have opened since 1 July 2014.

BEST SCHOOLWEAR STORE

BEST FOOTWEAR STORE

BEST BABY STORE

The Best Schoolwear Store category is open to independent retailers across the UK who trade within the specialist schoolwear sector.

The Best Footwear Store category is open to independent retailers across the UK who specialise exclusively in the children’s footwear sector.

The Best Baby Store category is open to independent retailers across the UK who specialise exclusively in newborn and baby essentials, including baby clothing, nursery product and maternitywear.

The Best Kids’ Independent Store category is open to independent retailers across the UK who solely trade within the children’s apparel, footwear or accessories sectors.

Sponsored by:

LONDON

Sponsored by:

Sponsored by:

Closing date for entries: 30 September 2016 For an entry form visit: www.cwb-online.co.uk #wearthecrown AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 12

RETAIL | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

RETAIL THERAPY We reveal our favourite independent boutiques as well as news and store events from the world of childrenswear retail.

OUR KID 9a Oswald Road, Chorlton, Manchester Situated in the Manchester suburb of Chorlton, Our Kid is a new children’s fashion and lifestyle store with a twist. Originally founded in 2013 by local mums Kate Heaton, Laura Day and Tess Grindle, the business had, until June, operated online and via pop-ups. Now, from a newly renovated bricks and mortar premises, it presents children’s clothing, toys, interiors, cards and gift wrap from brands such as Boys & Girls, The Bright Company, Candy Bow Tutus, Little Green Radicals, Nor-folk and Lara & Ollie.

And the aforementioned ‘twist’? The store also incorporates a family cafe serving locally produced coffee, tea, cakes and snacks.

“The environment has been created with style-conscious families in mind and is likened to the hip ‘Kindercafe’ movement in Berlin,” says co-founder Kate Heaton, who styled Our Kid’s retail/cafe space. “Bespoke tables and benches in reclaimed wood provide informal ‘perching’ opportunities, while our Astroturf lawn gives younger customers a comfortable place to sit and play. The store has a pared look, drawing on the beauty of natural materials to make a feature of storage and display.”

Our Kid has taken various measures to immerse itself in the local community, including the recruitment of a Most Valuable Parents (MVPs) network. In return for the MVPs’ feedback, they receive enhanced loyalty benefits as well as rewards for introducing new customers. To enhance the social aspect of the business, a series of collaborations with other small Manchester firms have been lined up. Elsewhere, on weekdays, baby groups are invited to take over Our Kid’s social space to offer taster sessions. The retailer is also set to co-host on a number of collaborative events including craft workshops with local mum and blogger Chaoscoffee and a shopping event with Mamas Collective, a network of entrepreneurial Manchester mums.

Amid the flurry of launch activity, the owners’ vision for the future is clear.

“Long-term, our ambition is to roll out the Our Kid concept and grow the online side of the business,” says Heaton. “Short-term, we’re keen to increase our offering by up to eight years.” www.our-kid.co.uk AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 14

RETAIL | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SCANDI MINI 69 Blythe Road, West Kensington, London W14 Gabrielle Spång, a mum of two, founded ScandiMini.co.uk from her kitchen table five years ago. She has since developed the London based website from its origins selling Scandinavian kids’ labels through to a leading UK e-tailer stocking over 150 independent childrenswear brands.

In November, to mark its fifth anniversary, Spång opened a bricks and mortar boutique.

Located in London’s West Kensington, the shop is described as “Scandinavian minimal meets bohemian chic.” In terms of stock, it carries brands such as Bobo Choses, The Animals Observatory, Mini Rodini, Numero 74 and Wolf & Rita.

Future plans for Scandi Mini include a relaunch for the website, consolidating the team and expanding the business’s warehouse, both in terms of location and staff. www.scandimini.co.uk

BOUTITCH 11 Market Place, Uttoxeter, Staffordshire Boutitch is owned by Annabelle Meakin-Waite, previously a scientist and midwifery student, and her mum Gillian Meakin, a former children’s nurse. Opening its doors in May, the store stocks clothing, toys and gifts, with a focus on organic, British, Fair Trade and ethically sourced products.

Brands carried include Frugi, Kite, Piccalilly, Toby Tiger, Lilly + Sid, Little Green Radicals, Lanka Kade and Little Shrimp alongside some local companies.

Boutitch offers loyalty cards, gift vouchers and will be running promotional evenings throughout the year. An e-commerce website is due for completion any day; in the meantime, the business can be found on Facebook and Twitter.

Long-term plans include opening more stores and launching an own-brand organic clothing label.

News:

BABY MOO’S X WONK UNIT British punk band Wonk Unit has teamed up with Bournemouth kids’ boutique Baby Moo’s to create a range of merchandise. The collaboration sees Wonk Unit’s rather ‘tongue in cheek’ adult merchandise range given a child-friendly twist, kick-starting the offer with a range of T-shirts, followed by hoodies.

“We’ve always been huge fans of Wonk Unit, so it’s an honour to work with the band to create an exclusive range of kidswear,” says Baby Moo’s founder, Anna-lee Kewley.

CRAB AND THE FOX Boutique baby clothes and toy retailer Crab and The Fox has been trading online since March.

Launched by Gemma Fordham, the website stocks a range of products aimed at 0-3 year olds, including baby clothes, skincare, baby bottles, dinnerware, nursery decor and toys, which Fordham strives to source from smaller, or lesser known brands, from around the world.

Amongst others, Crab and The Fox currently stocks Panda & Ping, Lara & Ollie, Love Mae, Petit Pehr, Fresk, Blade & Rose, Plantiful, Kokoso baby, Dotty Dungarees, Lifefactory, Modern Burlap, Nature Zoo, Noodoll and Uncle Goose.

Plans are to continue building the product portfolio as well as launching an own brand of products towards the end of the year. www.crabandthefox.com

HAVAIANAS OPENS LONDON FLAGSHIP Brazilian men’s, women’s and kids’ lifestyle brand Havaianas has launched its largest flagship in the UK at Westfield London. The 90 sq m store is part of Havaianas’ retail expansion, which includes recent launches in Barcelona, Rome, Portugal and Mallorca.

Following a look distinctly linked to the Havaianas retail concept, the store aesthetic features images of surfboards, flip flops, and message bottles, as well as a sculpted installation of a tropical parrot made from multicoloured Havaianas Top flip flops.

Retail news in brief: VERY LAUNCHES OWN LABEL

HOUSE OF FRASER APPOINTS NEW CCO

LIMITED EDITION KENZO AT HARRODS

Online department store Very.co.uk is pursuing accelerated growth in the UK fashion market with the launch of an own label clothing brand, V by Very, which the e-tailer aims to expand rapidly over the coming years. Incorporating lines across womenswear, menswear and childrenswear, V by Very mixes seasonal pieces with fashion essentials and is available on Very.co.uk as well as Littlewoods.com, which is also operated

by Shop Direct.

House of Fraser has appointed David Walmsley as chief customer officer.

Walmsley has over 20 years’ experience in the retail and digital space and most recently, was director at M&S Digital, with overall responsibility for Marks & Spencer’s global digital business unit, covering all aspects of its digital transformation.

Kenzo is launching a limited edition capsule kidswear collection in Harrods this month. The fresh and easy to wear collection sees a contemporary interpretation of the classic tiger print on T-shirts, a skirt and tracksuit bottoms, while a sweatshirt features a psychedelic popcorn pattern and 3D cartoon logo.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 15

EDITOR’S PICK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

01

02

BRANDS To Watch CWB editor Laura Turner selects the must-have collections to get in-store.

—

01: KOKORI

02: FOUR’EMKI

New for 2016 is fresh and contemporary girlswear label Kokori, for 2-8 years. This UK girlswear brand is produced in a sustainable manner and offers minimalistic style through timeless designs and subtle, creative detailing.

The brand’s debut s/s collection is inspired by places in the UK, hence the names of styles such as the Oxford dress and Bibury dress.

Cut lines and colours are an articulation of carefully observed elements in these chosen surroundings. The s/s 17 collection comprises 32 pieces, with key styles including the Moon jacket and the Bridge jacket and dress.

Wholesale prices £17-£45. www.kokori.co.uk

Making its UK debut at Bubble London this season was Polish girls’ and women’s brand, Four’eMki. “Controlled nonchalance with a hint of glamour” is the motto of this brand, which launched in 2013. Created with a passion for beauty and original design, the collections are simple and well-balanced, but with a little surprise that makes them unique in their own way. The brand caters for girls from nine months up to adult sizes, with key pieces including dresses, skirts, tops and accessories.

The Swan dress is Four’eMki’s hero piece.

Wholesale prices range from £4 for a bracelet through to £18 for a dress. www.fouremki.com AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 16

EDITOR’S PICK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

03

04

05 03: BIMBLE SHOES

04: GOSOAKY

05: FORIVOR

Two sisters from a shoe-making family business, whose parents have been creating handmade shoes for decades, are continuing the legacy with their own kids’ brand. Launched in June, Bimble Shoes offers handmade, soft moccasins that allow feet to develop naturally.

Produced using traditional techniques, the shoes are made from just two pieces of leather, forming a gentle, protective second skin that flexes with the foot. Though soft, the leather is hardwearing enough for outdoor wear in dry weather. There are eight colours, a luxe range and a limited-edition, shimmery platinum leather. Wholesale prices £16.36-£25.45. www.bimbleshoes.com

Founded in 2015, Gosoaky is an Amsterdam rainwear brand for 1-14 years. Mixing contemporary trends with rainproof quality and comfort, the collection includes waterproof, lined and unlined raincoats, trousers, capes, toddler coveralls and a backpack. Key pieces include the Crouching Tiger cape; the unlined, straight-cut and fully waterproof Elephant Man jacket; and the Cat Woman jacket with detachable hood and padded inner. With its round neckline and bomber shape, the inner can also be worn separately. Collections comprise around 12 styles in up to five colourways each. Wholesale prices ¤20–¤45. www.gosoaky.com / www.littleicons.co.uk

Forivor is a new, British, organic interiors brand for 0-10 years, featuring hand-drawn illustrations. The launch collection, Enchanted Forest, includes ethically produced bedding with illustrations on each side. One side depicts a British woodland, where wildlife hides in the undergrowth and trees. The reverse side reveals Forivorland, a night-time world where glow worms light up an enchanted forest full of fantastical creatures. Duvets and blankets come in an organic cotton suitcase, accompanied by character cards to inspire storytelling. Jersey blankets, cushions and a wall hanging are also available. Wholesale prices £50-£120. www.forivor.com AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 17

CWB RETAIL AWARDS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

TWENTY QUESTIONS WITH...

Ruth Robinson, owner of www.FreckledFrog.co.uk and winner of the Best Online Store category in the CWB Independent Retail Awards 2015.

1. What’s your average day?

After getting the kids off to school and preschool I pack orders, update social media, write blogs, add products to the site and browse new ranges; as it’s just me, I turn my hand to all aspects of the business. I check emails and do a Post Office run in the afternoon, and then a couple more hours most evenings after the kids go to bed.

2. How did you get into retailing?

I fell into it by chance and discovered I loved it. In 2009 I took a temp job with an interiors retailer, starting in the back office before progressing to retail manager. After having my first son I went back to work part-time, but while on maternity leave for the second time, I realised I wanted more flexibility. It seemed the perfect time to set up my own business using my retail experience, marketing background and new-found passion for baby clothes.

3. What’s the best thing about your job?

The products I sell. I’m passionate about design and quality and you can’t beat the buzz of discovering a great new range. I also love the flexibility an online business provides.

4. And the worst?

Working from home definitely blurs the line between work and home life. It’s sometimes hard to switch off, and I’m guilty of working far too late into the evening. I try to separate work and family time as much as I can.

5. What’s your greatest business achievement?

Without doubt, winning Best Online Store in the 2015 CWB Independent Retail Awards. I was over the moon to find out I was shortlisted and then totally gob-smacked when I won.

6. What motivates you?

Achieving success in my business, contributing to the family income and building customer relationships – I love it when customers give positive feedback and come back time and time again. Online retail doesn’t have the same level of customer interaction as bricks and mortar, so I’ve found social media, particularly Instagram, to be vital in helping build customer relationships as well as providing a source of support and positivity.

7. What do you love most about the kidswear sector?

The gorgeous products and friendly people.

There’s a real sense of supporting each other within the industry, probably because many of the people I come across are also working mums.

8. Who would be your dream customer?

Someone who’d generate amazing publicity for the Freckled Frog brand. I’d have to say Kate Middleton, as I’d love some of my products to be given the Prince George Effect.

9. What’s the story behind your shop name?

I’ve always had a thing about freckles… My husband is covered in them and it’s one of the things that attracted me to him. I find it amazing that both my children were born without freckles, but new ones are appearing daily and I’m guessing they’ll be covered like their dad one day. So, “freckled” felt like it meant something special to me and I liked the alliteration and childhood associations of Freckled Frog. Hopefully the name is a memorable one.

10. Do you have a business mentor?

When I first started out I received fantastic support and advice from an organisation called Enterprise Gateway. It offered a free business start-up course, which was invaluable, and ongoing business mentoring.

It’s great to know I can contact them if I need advice or someone to just bounce ideas off.

11. What’s your favourite brand?

I’m a huge fan of fellow Harrogate brand Little Dandies, which makes hand-printed clothing and homewares. It has a great retro feel and fun designs that kids love. I’m a big supporter of smaller brands and always make sure they feature strongly on my site alongside the more well-known names.

12. If you launched your own brand, what would it be?

What I look for when buying clothing for my own kids; vibrant colours, soft organic fabrics and easy-to-wear pieces able to withstand the wear and tear of daily life. Designs would be inspired by my boys’ big passions: sharks, dinosaurs, robots, space and pirates.

13. What would your dream kidswear shop be?

To go from online to an actual shop would be a dream come true, so I’d be happy to start off in the smallest of spaces. But, it would be amazing to have the space to stock all the fabulous brands on my wish list in a colourful, fun environment with a kids’ play area.

14. What’s your strangest customer request?

Customers ordering personalised items with the name of their pet on rather than a child’s.

15. What’s the best and worst piece of business advice you’ve been given?

The best and worst have both come from the same person, my husband. It was he who told me to go for it in the beginning, when I was having doubts about setting out on my own, and he’s helped keep me positive and motivated. But it was also he who suggested he could send orders out for me while I was on holiday and proceeded to mix up two customers’ orders, so they both received the wrong item. Needless to say, I’ve got a much better arrangement now.

16. What do you wish you’d known before you started?

There’s definitely been some trial and error involved in purchasing stock and finding out what does and doesn’t sell well. I feel so much more confident in my ability to select the right products now. It would have been good to have that knowledge and experience from the start.

17. Where do you find inspiration?

Instagram, which is great for discovering new brands and following trends, and overseas stores. I love some of the Australian etailers and began stocking Love Mae after finding its homewares while browsing online.

18. What’s your productivity secret?

Because my child-free time is so limited, I naturally maximise every minute to be as productive as I can.

19. Where do you see your business in five years’ time?

I’d love it to go from strength to strength to enable me to expand the product range with new brands and bigger sizes. I launched the site with clothes for up to two years when my oldest son was two. He’s now five, and my clothes go up to five years, so I’d like to think in five years’ time I’ll be stocking clothes up to 10 years. My absolute dream is to open a Freckled Frog shop in Harrogate.

20. What difference has winning a CWB Independent Retail Award made?

It has given me an enormous sense of achievement and inspired me to continue working hard to grow my business. It can sometimes be hard to stay motivated when working alone, so awards like this are much-needed boosts to keep going.

Best online store dent Indepen il REta s Award

•2015•

Winner

in association with CWB Magazine. #wearthecrown AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 18

The Wholesaler for Babywear Beautiful baby clothes at trade prices, minimum order ÂŁ200 Tel: 0116 2861616 Email: info@pex-kids.com www.pexwholesale.co.uk

REPORT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BREXITING THE FUTURE OF UK BUSINESS Fox Williams LLP’s commercial law partner Stephen Sidkin, and intellectual property law partner Simon Bennett, take a look at the consequences for contracts made by businesses following the EU referendum vote.

— Then the fourth angel sounded his trumpet, and a third of the sun and moon and stars were struck. A third of the stars were darkened, a third of the day was without light, and a third of the night as well. [Revelation 8:12] And yet… since the announcement of the result of the UK’s referendum on its future with the European Union, so far as UK companies are concerned there has been no discernible change in the previous pattern of doing business. But the designs of business will change irrespective of what replaces the UK’s existing trade relationship with the EU. Already, there are forecasts of an increase in inflation. It follows that a business which fails to build into its contracts an inflation indexing provision is simply giving its customer an opportunity to make a greater margin on resale.

Correspondingly, UK businesses sourcing from overseas, which do not include a currency conversion clause in their purchasing contracts, are asking for trouble. The immediate fall in the pound on 24 June 2016 has been nowhere near reversed.

But, on the plus side, buying UK assets – brands or trophy stores – in USD or pretty much any currency (excluding Bank of Toytown) has become a whole lot cheaper.

For those British businesses not falling prey to overseas buyers, uncertainty can be expected to translate itself to an increasing use of pop-ups and the taking of concessions in department stores.

And what of legal issues? The referendum will not in itself have any immediate implications in legal terms – it could take years before the UK exits the EU officially – but good lawyers who aim to try and achieve their clients’ business objectives will consider what the referendum means.

As such, can it be said that the decision to leave the EU has or will frustrate the purpose of a contract so making it impossible to perform the contract? Possibly. But the English courts have consistently been unimpressed by an argument that a contract is frustrated because it is more expensive to fulfil or more difficult to perform.

But then does the Brexit vote constitute an event of force majeure? Unlikely, as it would be necessary either for the contract to expressly state it to be so or for it to be interpreted as falling within a more general force majeure category, such as the act or decision of a government body. However, this has still to be tested in the English courts.

Will English choice of law and English court jurisdiction clauses continue to be upheld in the English courts given that these are currently governed by EU regimes? For the time being – yes. But in the future?

Also in the future consideration should be given to: • Whether defined terms need to be revised.

For example, the grant of a territorial right referring to the European Union or EU may need to be amended; • Including in contracts a provision providing

for a right of termination depending on the outcome of the terms of the UK’s Brexit agreement with the EU. However, the negotiation of such a provision could be somewhat difficult.

Equally, how will the intellectual property rights of fashion brands fare? The EU trade mark and the EU design, both pan-European rights, will almost certainly cease to cover the UK and this will result in a need to secure separate rights in the UK. The conversion of existing EU IP rights to national UK rights is likely, but on what basis this will be implemented and whether it will involve re-examination of the rights is unclear.

The enforcement of IP rights may also throw up some interesting issues. What happens to a pan-European injunction granted in favour of a non-UK company pre-Brexit?

Does it automatically cover the UK post-Brexit or will it need to be registered in the UK to continue in place? This has the potential for re-opening a number of hard-won disputes by designers and fashion brands alike.

Finally, what about grey imports? The UK could become a haven for parallel imports and worse if any transitional provisions on the protection of EU trade marks leave gaps in protection; the rights could be left unprotected if the fashion brand does not already have a UK trade mark in place.

A few years ago Orange claimed, “The future’s bright. The future’s Orange.” Today the future is grey as we try and see through an interesting period in the history of the UK.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 20

ADVERTISING PROMOTION | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BEST OF BRITISH BRANDS

THE GREAT BRITISH BABY COMPANY The Great British Baby Company creates apparel for young children, using the finest British cloth and craftsmanship. Its pieces combine the modern and the traditional, honouring Britain’s heritage as the workshop of the world whilst celebrating the vibrancy of youth.

Tel: 01273 455845 Email: info@greatbritishbabycompany.com www.greatbritishbabycompany.com

HOULIE Houlie socks are stylish and luxurious, eye catching and distinctive in bold, preppy stripes, in quintessentially English colours, influenced from the surrounding wildlife.

Designed & Packaged in Wiltshire & made in the UK, A fabulous British brand.

Email: info@houlie.co.uk www.houlie.co.uk

LALA & BEA Lala & Bea is an ethical unisex childrenswear brand for 0-12 years.

Inspired by fun and creativity, designed and made in the UK. Tel: 07769704379 Email: hello@lalaandbea.com www.lalaandbea.com Image: jack’s paper moon blog

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 21

PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

FACE OF BASE Base is a five-store strong UK independent selling designer childrenswear for 0-16 years. Over the last few seasons, the retailer has been rolling out Face of Base, which sees Base customers, as opposed to professional models, used for all of the business’ brand and creative imagery. CWB learns more about the campaign and its benefits to the retailer.

—

The Base story began in 1910 when Morris Granditer, great-grandfather of current managing director Marc Granditer, established a small men’s tailoring business in the heart of London’s East End. Originally known as Granditers, the business grew over the following decades to encompass a small chain of fashion stores in London, before introducing a childrenswear offer and rebranding itself as Base in the early 90s. Since then, Base has dropped its adult lines to focus purely on designer childrenswear and has invested heavily in the digital realm.

It has also refined a selection of bricksand-mortar stores across London and the south-east, located in Stratford City Westfield, Westfield London, Basildon and Romford, with a flagship in Bluewater.

Drawing strength from its heritage, the Base brand has steadily developed. In turn, this has resulted in more and more imagery

required to keep the website and stores looking fresh and on-trend. So, what better way for the retailer to meet this growing demand than by creating the imagery itself?

“The idea for the Face of Base campaign was born out of necessity,” says Base marketing manager Ben Coe. “We often found that the imagery supplied by our brands focused more on younger children, with a ‘cutesy’ and playful look. As our customers tend to be closer to the 12-16 year age group, we wanted our imagery to reflect a more stylised and edgy aesthetic, which better reflects our demographic.”

The process for the Face of Base campaign begins with a call out on social media alongside email and in-store flyers with the dates for auditions. For those unable to make auditions, the retailer accepts email entries. The next stage are the auditions themselves, which are held in three of Base’s

five store locations. Applicants’ photos, stats and preferred brands are gathered, along with general market research.

The entrants are then narrowed down by the retailer’s head office team, with the final selection made by Base’s buyer and merchandiser. Typically, up to 12 winners will be chosen across boy, girl and baby categories, who are then invited for a fun day of photo shoots, both in Base’s photography studio and on-location.

Imagery from a campaign is used across all of the retailer’s channels, both in-store and online. It provides Base with unique and relevant photography for its e-commerce website, social channels and in-store graphics as well as being utilised in email communications, affiliate marketing, for retargeting creatives, and in any print media.

So, has Base seen direct links to sales since introducing Face of Base?

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 22

PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

“

“The idea for the Face of Base campaign was born out of necessity.

We wanted our imagery to reflect a more stylised and edgy aesthetic, which better reflects our demographic.”

“ “Although this is quite hard to measure individually, the Face of Base campaign is part of a much wider strategy that has us on track to achieve an online growth of over 50 per cent this financial year,” confirms Coe. While hard benefits of the campaign are harder to gauge, the soft benefits are unquestionable. Firstly, it has allowed Base to keep its website and stores regularly updated with new and unique imagery, which accurately reflects its brand DNA. Subsequently, this means it has a very distinctive point of difference to its competitors, who are all using the same brand imagery provided by their shared suppliers.

Obviously, it is also a great PR exercise for the business, connecting it with its core demographic and creating a marketing buzz around the stores and e-commerce site.

Furthermore, it has allowed Base to gain solid feedback from both its younger customers and

their parents, meaning it can be more aware of, and reactive to, changing consumer trends.

“The Face of Base campaign is an extremely useful marketing exercise to encourage customers to interact with our brand and engage with us on a more localised level,” adds Coe. “The auditions also help to create interest around our stores and social media channels.”

Next on the agenda is stepping the campaign up a level, with Base currently in discussions with a London PR agency to help launch the Face of Base campaign on a national scale.

“We are planning to open auditions in multiple locations up and down the country,” says Coe. “This will provide our customers in other parts of the UK with the opportunity to feature in a professional photoshoot and be the face of our brand for an entire season.”

Elsewhere, the business is moving

forward in other areas. It is currently in the process of a major rebranding exercise, which will soon been rolled out across all Base stores and the e-commerce site. The retailer is also changing the direction of the business to better fill a gap which it believes currently exists in the childrenswear market.

“We plan to use knowledge and experience gained from the adult fashion industry to provide a more stylised and teenfocused offering to our key demographics,” says Coe. “We are investing heavily in contentled marketing strategies with a focus on social media and guerrilla youth advertising.”

He adds, “We are also planning an integrated digitalisation of our stores to keep up with the increasing trend towards omnichannel retail. And, there is also a oneof-a-kind Base app in the pipeline, which we feel will cement us as the UK’s leading fashion destination for the under 16s.”

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 23

PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

WILD & GORGEOUS UK girlswear label I Love Gorgeous has rebranded to Wild & Gorgeous to incorporate a long-awaited boyswear collection. CWB’s Laura Turner speaks to brand designer Sophie Worthington to learn more.

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For the last 10 years, British girlswear brand I Love Gorgeous has been coveted worldwide for its beautiful, vintage-inspired dresses and feminine, ethereal designs. It is not surprising to learn, therefore, that pressure has steadily been mounting on the brand to introduce a boyswear counterpart.

While aware of customers’ desire for a boyswear offering, co-founders Lucy Enfield and Sophie Worthington have bided their time in introducing one. So why now? The company is celebrating its 10th anniversary – the perfect excuse for a rebrand – and, well, Enfield and Worthington have finally settled on a new brand name.

“The honest truth is, until now, we

simply couldn’t think of a new brand name,” says Worthington, explaining why boyswear hasn’t been introduced sooner. “We knew that ‘ilovegorgeous boys’ was never going to take off, and that we had to find a credible alternative that still retained the essence of I Love Gorgeous. We brainstormed so many options, from ‘ilovehandsome’ to ‘notsogorgeous’ and even ‘ilovegeorge’, but none of these appealed until we happened across ‘wild boys and gorgeous girls’, which quickly became Wild & Gorgeous. We love the new name – put our heart and soul into it, and into the new collection – so we really hope it will fly.”

With the brand name decided, the

next hurdle, as for many businesses with big ambitions for growth, was sourcing a cash injection to cover the project. The duo discussed various methods of raising finance, including the traditional routes of approaching a bank or a private angel investor. While the latter was the means by which I Love Gorgeous was originally and successfully launched, Enfield and Worthington wanted an option that enabled them to share the brand’s journey and growth with their customers. Crowdfunding was the perfect solution, allowing individuals to invest as little as £10 for an equity share in the business. It’s safe to say customers put their money where their mouth is, too, with the original crowdfunding target of £300k quickly AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 24

PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

smashed, and a total of £700k raised.

“It is our customers who have got us to where we are today and crowdfunding allowed us to connect with them in a new way by offering the opportunity to become investors and share in our future success,” says Worthington. “The campaign, and its success, were the result of a lot of hard work by our team and we were so delighted when the work paid off and we exceeded all of our expectations. We were particularly delighted to discover that the majority of our new investors are I Love Gorgeous customers who believe in us and want to join us on the journey.”

Despite I Love Gorgeous girlswear now being called Wild & Gorgeous, the original design aesthetic has not changed. What has changed is the logo, packaging, gift-wrap and website, which all feature the new branding and corporate colours.

“We are delighted with the results,” says Worthington. “We had to be very careful when choosing the voice of the boyswear to ensure that it sat well alongside the girls’ designs. Having delivered a capsule a/w 16 boys’ collection, and designed the s/s 17 boys’ collection (now being shown to wholesale customers under the Wild & Gorgeous name), we are pleased with the way that the boyswear complements the girlswear and even adds a bit of ‘street cred’. We hope that Wild & Gorgeous will appeal to existing as well as new customers.”

So, what to expect from a boyswear collection created by a brand primarily known for girls’ partywear? Enfield and Worthington are acutely aware that while having to tick the partywear box for boys, what they don’t want to do is create a full collection of “poncey party clothing that no self-respecting boy would wear”. Hence, while they may nod to the brand’s roots with a boys’ suit, for instance, they envisage it to be styled with a T-shirt and scuffed-up Converse. In fact, the majority of the boyswear collection is intended to be worn as daywear or partywear; essentially the approach the brand encourages with girlswear.

A sequin dress with wellies? Why not.

“We pride ourselves on design and detail, and that holds just as true of our new boyswear line as it does of the girls’,” says Worthington.

“We are dipping our toe into the water with the boys’ a/w 16 collection, which is capsule and includes just day/partywear. For s/s 17, we have

baby boys and accessories, as well.”

It is important to note that the a/w 16 boyswear debut is retail-only, to be sold by the brand. This will enable Enfield and Worthington to safely test the water and gauge customer reaction, with small quantities designed to help drive instant sell-outs of key a/w 16 styles. In terms of inspiration, think Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. Just as the brand has looked east for inspiration for its a/w 16 girlswear line, so it has for boys, with dragon and tiger prints and embroideries applied to laid-back classics such as denim shirts, T-shirts and loose fitting trousers. Hints of 80s punk influences also feature, with black and white stripe jeans, red tartan skinnies and striped cashmere knits for a cool urban look.

S/s 17 marks the first wholesale boyswear collection, initially making up 25 per cent of the total girlswear offer, a percentage that will be reviewed based on response to the launch.

Wholesale prices for boys start from £13 for T-shirts and shorts, from £16 for shirts, from £25 for trousers, sweatshirts and jumpers and from £31 for jackets. Themes and stories, meanwhile, include Circus, featuring striped cotton poplin tops, skirts and dresses in bold colours for girls, and striped slubby cotton kaftan shirts to wear with relaxed cotton trousers for boys. Elsewhere, a Cool Britannia, Mod theme sees iconic knitwear, skinny jeans embroidered with a Mod emblem and Harrington-style bomber jackets and

matching trousers in fashionable Prince of Wales check fabric. Core customers need not worry: s/s 17 also provides a good helping of floral prints and Lurex detailed girls’ partywear as well as the brand’s signature jumpsuits in bold coloured prints. Furthermore, Enfield and Worthington have been working on a beautifully packaged newborn gifting collection for s/s 17, and alongside the boys’ mainline range, Page Boys have been added to the label’s Classic Collection, an area identified by the brand for potential growth, both in retail and wholesale.

“We hope that existing customers will love and buy into our boyswear collection in order to complement their Wild & Gorgeous girlswear buy,” comments Worthington. “That said, we do think that as Wild & Gorgeous, we are a more complete proposition and we hope that we will therefore attract new stockists in additional territories. The more the merrier...”

For the time being, the main focus is perfecting the boys’ collection and nurturing a successful rebranding in the autumn. The brand is also keen to build on its wholesale customers on a global scale.

“We currently have agents in London, New York, LA, Germany, Spain, Sweden and Norway,” says Worthington. “We would like to grow our wholesale accounts in all of those territories, as well as the Middle East and Korea, where we already have a fairly solid fanbase.”

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 25

L-R: BUBBLE EVENT DIRECTOR LINDSAY HOYES; NOOOK FOUNDER TORSTEN SHERWOOD; BUBBLE EVENT MANAGER KATHARINE REVILL

RISING STAR AWARD | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

STAR APPEAL Each season, kids’ trade event Bubble London hosts the Rising Star Award, a competition to determine the show’s best launch brand. The s/s 17 finalists made for an impressive line-up, but it was UK toy brand Noook who won over judges Allison Goodfellow-Ash of WGSN, Scandi Mini’s Gabrielle Spång, Victoria Hampson of Natural Baby Shower and CWB editor Laura Turner.

Following the show, Turner catches back up with Noook’s founder, Torsten Sherwood, for more insight into his brand.

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Laura Turner: How would you describe Noook?

Torsten Sherwood: Noook is a large-scale construction toy; a kind of ‘archi-toy’ for building things large enough to play inside, such as dens, forts and playhouses. It’s about the open-end, creative-making play experience of a traditional construction toy, but at a scale large enough for children to inhabit.

LT: What’s the story behind the brand’s creation?

TS: Noook originated from the idea that there is something very special about making things with your hands. It engages the mind and body in a unique way that allows you to think and learn differently.

The big inspiration and our benchmark was actually the humble cardboard box.

This unintended toy can teach us a lot about designing for children and for play. Although

it’s a little cliched, we can all relate to how a big cardboard box is often far more fun than the over-designed and expensive object inside.

There are two simple reasons for this. Firstly, the box is like a giant 3D canvas that children can shape into their own space and there is something special about that play experience.

Secondly, and most surprisingly, the cardboard box is not valuable; children can play freely with it without worry. With Noook, we wanted to capture this ethos, yet make it more practical and user-friendly.

LT: What’s your design background?

TS: While reading architecture at university I became particularly interested in craft and making within design. As a designer, I spend a lot of our time creating sketches, models, mock-ups and prototypes. We do this because when you work physically, you think differently.

I even started designing and making furniture because, unlike architecture, you can really get hands-on involvement at that scale.

Due to my interests I was invited to be the Designer and Resident at the Design Museum and asked to produce an exhibition about my ‘making-based approach’ to design.

While I’m fascinated with craft and making, I appreciate it’s a pretty dry, even ‘geeky’ topic to most, particularly kids, who happen to be the museum’s biggest audience. So, I had the idea to hide this topic in play and introduce it as a game though a construction toy. After all, construction toys are all about making and building, very literally games in design and making. The exhibition got a lot of positive feedback from schools and parents and since then – as well as completing a masters in architecture – I have been trying to put Noook into production so that we can continue the AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 26

RISING STAR AWARD | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

mission of introducing children to making and design through play.

LT: What’s Noook’s USP? TS: The really unique thing about Noook is that it offers an entirely new and innovative way for children to build. Unlike the bricks or nuts and bolts of most construction toys, it isn’t designed for strength or efficiency but for creative play. It’s designed to be as openended as possible, to stretch imaginations, and importantly, it’s great at building big. The second way in which it’s unique is its design quality. We hope to provide an eco-friendly, quality alternative to the toy department, which is currently saturated with plastic tat marketed on gender, licence and gimmick.

LT: What quantities does Noook come in?

TS: It comes in packs of 25, 50 and 75, as well as larger institutional-sized packs on special request. We find that 20 is the minimum needed for a good play experience, to build something like a teepee. With packs of 50 and 75, you can build proper play houses.

LT: Are there any colour options?

TS: We produce Noook in a whole rainbow of colours and as we develop, we hope to add to this with unique designs and patterns.

LT: What’s the product’s lifespan?

TS: Noook is made out of a really tough and rigid paper sheet, so although it’s made from recycled paper, it’s actually incredibly durable.

It even comes in a waterproof version. We believe that given reasonable use, a pack should last for years.

LT: Who’s your target audience?

TS: In some sense, as a den building toy, our

target audience is very wide. Den building is a very widespread play that for some reason hasn’t really been designed for and we hope Noook addresses that need. More specifically, Noook is targeting an audience actively looking for a quality alternative to the current toy department, which doesn’t patronise children with garish branding. People seeking a wholesome, classic, open-end making toy compared to the themed kits that other brands are currently focusing on. We hope to fill the £30-£100 price gap for play houses. A kit of 25 Noook will retail for about £30-£40 and wholesale for around £12-£16, but these figures need to be confirmed and will likely be negotiable upon scale.

LT: What was the response to Noook at Bubble?

TS: We were really happy with the response we got. This was the first time we’d shown Noook directly to the children’s industry, so it was great to get positive validation directly from our target market. It gave us a lot of confidence.

It was great to see that people ‘got’ Noook instantly and picking up the Rising Star Award at an exhibition full of children’s products was really a fantastic validation for us.

LT: Where are you looking to next for growth and development?

TS: Our main focus is launching Noook and focusing on the core product shown at Bubble.

The ethic behind Noook is not to try and reinvent it each year, but instead to build a business around a core, classic product that doesn’t require anything else. Saying that, there are a few alternatives and additions that make sense. The basic Noook in a few different sizes and shapes could help play, as well as a few useful accessories like a blanket

designed for play and making dens.

The next design job, however, will see us focus on an addition for Noook that helps spark creativity. Noook is a great 3D canvas for making things, but a blank canvas can be daunting for even the most creative. Where other toys provide step-by-step instructions that dictate, we want to inspire. To do this we would like to develop something to help children come up with ideas.

We’re thinking about producing a set of cards with creative ‘tools’ and inspiration, or even a set of stories, as story books are very inspiring for kids. By creating an ever-evolving series of stories around a few characters and objects (which would come as paper sheet cutouts to attach to Noook) we hope to inspire children and allow them to easily build these stories.

Although Noook is unlikely to be a toy that uses licences, I do wonder if there is room for collaborations with graphic and fashion designers who share our interest in providing kids with design of genuine social and cultural quality.

LT: What are your short and long term plans?

TS: Immediately, our focus is on launching and turning Noook into a successful business by getting the product right and building the brand in order to take it to the high street and internal market.

Longer-term, I want to build Noook to be something I can look back on and be proud of. It would be great if it turned into an iconic design that the toy people fondly remember. I also hope Noook provides me with a stepping stone in my career, giving me the experience, reputation, and finances to set up my own design studio. www.noook.eu AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 27

BUBBLE FOOTWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

HOT STEPPERS CWB’s pick of the footwear at this season’s Bubble London.

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PLAE UK

Created by Ryan Ringholz, ex creative at Puma, Diesel and New Balance, Plae is designed using biometric science to form footwear that protects the natural development of children’s feet. Key styles include Nat (pictured), which comes in a smooth touch, full grain leather with a unique, marbled, fully flexible sole and interchangeable tabs. www.goplae.co.uk

IGOR S.OLIVER

Founded in 1974, Igor is one of Spain’s top manufacturers of rain boots and jellies. The brand’s s/s 17 collection is available in a range of vibrant colours and styles. www.igor.es

Trainers are key in S.Oliver’s Red Label Shoes Junior s/s 17 collection, including high-tops and practical slip-ons as well as uncomplicated canvas styles. Summer boots remain popular for girls, alongside ballerinas and sandals featuring fringing, applications or stitching. For boys, the theme is sporty, with a move towards more masculine, grown-up looks. www.soliver-shoes.com

SAMPHIRE BY PETASIL

Samphire by Petasil is a new brand of machine-washable footwear. Crafted in Portugal, the shoes include classic smooth leather, bright patents and metallic finishes. Samphire launched last season and has since added a Menorcan-style sandal along with a buckle-fastened version. www.petasil.com

THE LITTLE SHOEMAKER

The Little Shoemaker’s s/s 17 collection includes a new moccasin design made on a last, rather than using the traditional stitch and turn technique, and new sandal, Peekaboo.

Also new to the range is a style called Baby Bella, in a lace-up version with painted toe cap, a plain lace-up version to add to the current clog design, and an open-toe sandal version available in a variety of colours. www.thelittleshoemaker.com AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 28

BUBBLE FOOTWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

DAISY ROOTS

Daisy Roots’ soft leather shoes for babies and pre-walkers are handmade in Northamptonshire, with the design recently improved by a new pattern featuring a rounded collar and padded leather insole.

New for 2017 is a character range including Freddie the Fish (pictured) and Dobbie the Donkey. www.daisy-roots.com

SOLILLAS

Solillas offers a fun, luxurious update on the classic leather Menorcan sandal. Designed in London and Ibiza and inspired by Balearic bohemian life, the kids’ collection includes a range of colourways as well as metallic options. www.solillas.com

MANUELA DE JUAN

Since 1970, Spanish brand Manuela de Juan has been creating and producing handmade, premium shoes for children in its factory in the Alicante region.

This season, the brand focuses on pastel colours, taking inspiration from American influences, with fluro playing an important role. www.manueladejuan.com

MAÁ SHOES

MAÁ Shoes is a modern, high-end children’s shoe brand handmade in premium materials by skilled craftsmen.

The Spanish label’s s/s 17 collection is inspired by Cuba.

Colour is key, with the season’s palette based on blue-ocean and brown-terracotta mixed with acid shades. www.maashoes.com

DIONNE GOODING

New London footwear designer Dionne Gooding showcased her eponymous children’s collection at Bubble this season. The range saw vibrantly coloured baby booties and toddler shoes in soft, textured leathers combined with African-inspired fabrics. Styles are available exclusively for one season and come with either tassels or decorative laces. www.dionnegooding.com

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 29

BUBBLE FAVOURITES | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

HAUS OF JR BOMBER JACKET $45 JOHNNY@THE-LEVERAGE.COM

FASHION FOCUS CWB’s picks from Bubble London s/s 17.

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ARSÈNE ET LES PIPELETTES DRESS ¤19 0033 524335780

POCOPATO DUNGAREES £17.50 07506 957930

MIMOSA KIDS DRESS £41.21 07910 491067

FRENCH KING BOW TIE IN JAPANESE COTTON ¤9 0033 661832746

KIDD-IN LONDON ORGANIC WAX COTTON JACKET £35 07852 199661

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 30

BUBBLE FAVOURITES | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

MILOU & PILOU PINAFORE DRESS ¤18 0034 606971511

NANA MOMO MAKES SHIRT FROM £14 07807 804086

KOKORI DRESS £32 07900 956892

ANNALIV DENIM BLOOMERS IN WOODEN GIFT BOX FROM £16 020 8144 2118

LITTLE LORD & LADY BESPOKE PRINT LONG-SLEEVED SHIRT £18 07734 357865

MOKSHA CASHMERE CASHMERE BABY SET £57.99 07784 290208

Images shot at: uShoot Studios, Studio 132, Business Design Centre, 52 Upper Street, London N1 0QH. T: 020 7354 4271 • E: studio@ushootstudios.co.uk • W: www.ushootstudios.co.uk AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 31

BUBBLE FAVOURITES | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

PEHR BUNNY PRINT SWADDLE £5.80 01628 820082

HOUSE OF BIBS COTTON BABY BOOTS £9 07923 346324

NURSERY & LIFESTYLE FOCUS

NOODOLL RICEPUFFY CUSHION £14 020 7253 1890

CWB’s picks from Bubble London s/s 17.

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MAMA DESIGNS CELLULAR BLANKET IN COT SIZE £11 0121 366 0267

SKUMMIS BABY RATTLE £5.34 01235 848192

ALBETTA BABYGRO AND KNIT TOY £10 AND £6 01628 820082

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 32

CAM CAM COPENHAGEN NURSING BAG ¤29.30 0045 25593100

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

BUBBLE FAVOURITES | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

LOVE MAE FIVE-PIECE BAMBOO DINNER SET £9.60 01628 820082 CHARLOTTE MATHIEU BABYGRO AND TEDDY SET £22 07934 752108

NIBBLING TEETHING JEWELLERY DUMMY CLIP AND RATTLE RING £5 EACH 07943 958860

SNOOZEBABY BABYGRO £11.36 020 8392 2665

LARA & OLLIE SILICONE TEETHING JEWELLERY NECKLACES £7.95, BANGLES £4.50 07968 210497

Images shot at: uShoot Studios, Studio 132, Business Design Centre, 52 Upper Street, London N1 0QH. T: 020 7354 4271 • E: studio@ushootstudios.co.uk • W: www.ushootstudios.co.uk AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 33

PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

THAT’S A RAP Good quality, eco-friendly and price-conscious are qualities often cited by kids’ brands. To find a label that truly hits all of these points, not just in the mission statement under ‘company ethos’, is perhaps harder to come by. But Portuguese footwear supplier Arauto RAP (AKA RAP) is one such brand. Rebecca Jackson visited the offices in Porto, Portugal, to find out more.

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PEDRO TAVARES, DIRECTOR OF RAP

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 34

PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Family-run company Arauto RAP – more commonly known as RAP – is now managed by sixth-generation brother and sister team and directors Pedro and Maria Tavares. A company that spans over 55 years in the industry, RAP is now present in a fair portion of European countries, as well as USA and Canada, though a small amount of orders go to Asia, too.

Over the coming months, the brand is planning to target a few new territories, Russia being one. Expansion is on the cards, but it’s not about the hard and fast approach. “It’s not about every business, it’s about the right business,” confirms Pedro Tavares, director of RAP. However, the main connection, and strongest established market is Scandinavia, especially Denmark.

“There was a bit of dispute as to whether RAP would go to Denmark originally,” says Tavares. “But my father took some samples over anyway and came back with a lot of orders. It was a gamble, but it worked. He proved everyone wrong.” Furthermore, ‘Rap’ is an onomatopoeia for a duck’s ‘quack’ in Danish. Inspired by the venture into Denmark, the brand’s connection with Scandinavia was complete. And today, RAP’s bestselling styles overall are sandals that are recommended by hospitals and physiotherapists in Scandinavia.

For Tavares, the brand’s recent venture into the UK market was less sporadic than his father’s into Denmark, though the same tenacity was applied. It’s this confidence that

has seen the brand enter with such force into the UK. Though only in its first full UK selling season, the brand has 36 accounts with an aim of 50 in the immediate future.

“You’re not a brand until you’re placed all around the country,” Tavares says. “It’s great to be in London, but we want to be all around the UK. At the moment we reach a good demographic, and have customers around the country from Scotland to Wales and the West Country.” Tenacity, it seems, pays off. Though for Tavares, expansion is not just about domination over the market and sales.

“We want to continue to produce healthy shoes for kids and mums. Yes, we want to grow, but for us it’s about the right kind of growth. Essentially, we always look to our roots and what we stand for when developing a new range of shoes.”

The imagery of a duck’s foot is seen throughout branding, represented in the brand’s own shoe shape: wider at the toe and narrow at the heel, just like a duck’s. “Children aren’t usually born with misshapen feet, yet only approximately 40 per cent of adults have healthy feet,” Tavares says. “It’s important to look after feet, allowing them natural space to form properly, and to use flexible materials that also provide support in the right areas.”

Catering to four different age groups from pre-walker to teens, the brand takes a considered approach when selecting which materials to use in its different ranges. Despite selling almost nothing in Porto and very little

in Portugal in general, materials are sourced from suppliers based locally to the factory.

Ecological vegetable leathers are selected to ensure zero chromium. Latex, raw rubber and crepe soles – the most organic available at the moment – feature across the line. And the brand’s own waterproof, windproof and breathable RAP-TEX membrane boasts a nonporous texture which prevents air penetration and draws vapour to the outside of the shoe.

Shoes across the line include a layer of ‘memory foam’. Latex is used as an alternative to foam as it boasts comfort and breathability while also being naturally more beneficial to the environment. “Latex is better for allergies and maintains more anti-bacterial properties.

Our buckles, too, are nickel-free and leather is chromium free. Though you have to ensure you select the right suppliers, who use the right tannery,” says Tavares. “You have to look right down the line of production to ensure you’re getting what you want.” It’s a longer way of doing things; it’s a harder way of doing things.

Likewise, RAP is one of the few brands to use only water-based glue and water-based inks in its manufacturing process. It makes breathing the air at the brand’s factory based in São João da Madeira, a city outside of Porto, a breeze.

The team has been based within its current premises since 1959 – way back when the business was started in its current form by third generation family members. >>>

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 35

PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

It’s a fairly unimpressive building from the outside, like any other. Inside is a different story.

Starting where most things start – the drawing board – each part of the design and manufacturing process (the pieces of the puzzle, as Tavares puts it) is done in-house and is seen as just as important as the next.

Each is split into an individual area of craft, with specialist craftspeople designated to each area. Every shoe passes through a minimum of 30 separate sets of hands before it’s able to be released from production.

Pieces of material are cut by hand, using a water jet cutting machine; leather is stitched together, soles are cut and then fixed together using water-based glue. Materials react with friction in the manufacturing process, creating an effective natural adhesive. A mix of extreme hot and cold temperatures are applied during the process to create the desired shape, replicating that all-important duck foot silhouette.

It seems so simple, though each part of the process is carefully considered. And if a product’s not quite right, it’s worked out until it’s ready. Tavares is able to oversee all elements of production at the factory, making it easier to control. It puts the brand at something of an advantage.

RAP comes out around 15-20 per cent cheaper than its direct competitors, enabling it to hold an attractive price point advantage.

As one of the only kids’ shoe brands to oversee and manage all stages of production, it’s easier to cater and react to orders. It’s also easier to monitor high production standards.

All of the brand’s suppliers meet the minimum REACH criteria, the European Union regulation concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation & restriction of CHemicals. “We produce our own shoes; we have the factory and we have the brand,” Tavares says. “Our competitors could be using more expensive materials, though I think we’re able to keep costs down because we have a lighter structure in place.”

Certainly, the brand doesn’t rush major decisions. It took one and a half years of searching to find the right suppliers to make a box for the new collection that was not only recyclable but was made out of recycled materials. Every element of the box, including papers, glues and even the labels that are attached, is 100 per cent made from recycled materials. Furthermore, it took two years to develop the brand’s first fully vegan kids’ shoe for s/s 17.

“The majority of vegan shoes are not ecological; they contain petroleum and materials which are bad for the environment.

Our vegan shoe took a while to make because we wanted a shoe that was both ecological and not made from an animal,” says Tavares. “It takes a lot of work to ensure you can trust the materials and the suppliers that you’re using.

There’s lots of vegan shoes that are made quickly and pushed out to the market in no time.”

The range of vegan shoes and sandals reflect a cork upper and a natural raw rubber sole. With an organic cotton and soft foam lining, styles benefit from the natural durable and breathable properties of cork. Produced without using any harmful chemicals, the style is RAP’s first PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) approved shoe. At the time of visiting, Tavares and his team are testing a crepe sole option, with the aim of furthering the cork shoe’s eco-friendly status.

Accompanying the vegan cork shoe, the rest of the s/s 17 collection includes more colourways, with a particular focus on patterns such as florals, brights and metallic shades. Mary Jane and sandal styles remain bestsellers for the UK summer collection.

Sandals with adjustable features are top sellers across the board, continuing as the staple requirement.

With the edition of the cork vegan shoe, the latest collection feels like a defining one.

The brand has always been committed to eco practices, though the recent increasing customer demand and industry support for such a product indicates that the move into certified vegan territory is a good venture into a previously niche market. The jury is out for the vegan cork style, though the mood is confident in the RAP camp.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 36

Spring Summer 2017 Available for wholesale orders.

Contact sales@youngsoles.co.uk for more information.

Copyright 2016. Young Soles

HEALTHY SHOES BY DESIGN The new KID+ range fits kids up to eight years old!

Come and check us out at Moda.

MODA UK 7-9 August 2016 NEC Birmingham STAND H58

BOBUX W W W. B O B U X .C O M

Premium quality children’s shoes sizes 17 - 40

FRODDO will be exhibiting at:

MODA NEC Birmingham Hall 17, Stand H41 7 – 9 August 2016

FASHION CITY Dublin 5 – 8 September 2016

GATWICK SHOW Holiday Inn 11 – 12 September 2016

www.froddo.com www.KidsNewShoes.com E: info@kidsnewshoes.com M: +44 (0)7796 766669 T: +44 (0)1707 888388

FRODDO is celebrating 70 years this year.

MODA FOOTWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SMALL WONDERS Previewing the children’s footwear collections available at this season’s Moda Footwear on 7-9 August at the NEC, Birmingham.

—

HUSH PUPPIES Hush Puppies returns to Moda Footwear this season with a collection that includes suede loafers and new girls’ styles Piper and Lulu in the Back to School range. Colours include lilac, silver, navy, orange and blue.

Stand H29

EMU AUSTRALIA Launching its first kids’ s/s styles, EMU Australia extends its popular Little Creatures collection with a range of trainers and shoes sporting the brand’s animal theme. Built on a light, flexible outsole, memory foam footbeds provide comfort and cotton twill uppers allow breathability.

Stand I29

SUPERFIT Superfit’s s/s 17 collection includes five new product groups: unisex, first-steps style Mel; casual and lightweight unisex trainer Marley; girls’ sandal Lettie; Maya, a gladiator sandal for older girls; and new ballerina-style Tina.

Stand F40

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 40

MODA FOOTWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

RICHTER S/s 17 highlights for girls include applications, prints, rhinestones, stitching, hot pressing, mottled finishes and metallic or velour leathers. For boys, blues and greys are key, as are stand-out fastenings, or combinations of fastenings, including lace-ups, zips, elastics and Velcro fasteners.

Stand F41

FRODDO Tropical seas and the Cote d’Azur are Froddo’s s/s 17 inspirations.

Strong shades of pink, electric blue, sea green and yellow are mixed with natural shades and dynamic texture combinations, while vintage gold and pink hues add glamour. For fans of sporting elegance, there are also classic trainers.

Stand H41

LURCHI BY SALAMANDER Lurchi has expanded its collection of sporty trainer styles, offering everything from classic leather to sporty lightweight designs.

Ballerinas and sandals also feature for girls, with sporty themes, including skater-style shoes and sandals, for boys.

Stand F10

RICOSTA More trainers and skaters feature for boys and, for the first-time, the BOA system – a twistable, easy open-and-close feature – is available on sandals. For girls, designs include embroidery and rhinestone appliqués on floral designs and crackle-effect leather.

Stand G43

BOBUX New for 2017 is Kid+, which sees Bobux extend its sizes beyond pre-school age up to 8 years. As well as its Play, Street and Classic collections, Bobux will be showing a new range in collaboration with designer Soléne Roure.

Stand H58

BO-BELL Bo-Bell has over 25 years’ experience developing children’s leather shoes, designed and produced with child foot health in mind in its factory in Portugal. Baby, junior, senior and school shoes are available.

Stand H49 >>> AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 41

MODA FOOTWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

LELLI KELLY One of the highlights of the Lelli Kelly collection is Magiche. This knee-high boot is made from ultra-elastic and hyper-flexible materials with an upper, insole and footbed in leather. Available in red or black.

Stand I50

ECCO Building on the popular athleisure trend, Ecco has extended its Ecco Cool 2.0 range to kids for s/s 17. Available in a variety of colours including pink (pictured) and black, the Cool 2.0 shoe moulds to the foot and includes Gore-Tex technology and PU injections in the sole and uppers for ventilation.

Stand I21

IPANEMA Part of Brazilian footwear brand Ipanema’s s/s 17 offer is the Sea Baby collection of sandals. Designs include an octopus, turtle and whale.

Stand F38

SHOO POM Offering a simple collection combining comfort and lightness, with great importance placed on materials. In terms of inspiration, fun and fantasy are key.

Stand H40

SALT-WATER SANDALS Salt-Water Sandals’ kids’ collection Sun-San is available in an array of colours. All of the sandals are leather, hand-stitched, water resistant and suitable for machine washing. New s/s 17 colours include rose gold.

Stand I40 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 42

MODA FOOTWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

ZAXY From the creators of Melissa plastic shoes, Zaxy offers babies and children footwear made from patented, soft plastic with specially developed footbeds for additional comfort.

Stand F29

RAP For s/s 17, RAP has produced a collection of sandals and shoes designed to complement the season’s childrenswear collections.

Highlights include white and blue patent sandals alongside brighter colours, with great emphasis placed on design and fit.

Stand G59

POM D’API More than a century of experience and tradition goes into Pom D’Api shoes, with precise fitting properties and careful attention to detail paramount.

Stand H50

GIOSEPPO KIDS S/s 17 trends for Gioseppo Kids are Secret Garden, a romantic and nostalgic look; Soft Future, which focuses on delicate minimalism; and Tropical Paradise, full of vibrant colours and prints inspired by Caribbean culture.

Stand G48 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 43

REPORT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

FOOTWEAR REPORT:

FIT FOR PURPOSE SATRA Technology is a not-for-profit research and testing company considered to be a technical authority for footwear, including fit. Here, SATRA addresses the importance of good fit for children’s shoes, including common footwear fit problems and health impacts and striking the balance between style and comfort.

— The choice of shoe is probably the single most important factor in maintaining a child’s foot health. Shoes must protect and support, yet allow proper room for growth.

The foot is a marvel of natural engineering and development, with 26 bones, 19 muscles and over 100 ligaments. At birth however, the skeleton of a child’s foot is largely made up of 22 partially developed bones (soft cartilage and gristle). These gradually ossify (harden) as the child grows and by the age of 5-6 years, there could be as many as 45 bones in the foot.

The bones do not fully develop and harden until the child is a teenager and until this process is complete, the foot can easily be damaged and deformed by ill-fitting footwear. With bone forming according to the forces applied to it, poor fitting footwear will have a detrimental effect on the growth and development of young children’s feet.

Shoes have an important protective function and are placed under high levels of stress and strain. The majority of shoes will need to be made from materials capable of withstanding the activities and functions for which they have been designed, whilst also allowing the foot to function normally. However, where there are poor fit issues, these materials can cause problems. Throw in the demands of fashion, and this can have a further detrimental effect on the foot and thus the health of the child.

Children’s footwear used to be very traditional in style, with individual retailers offering a fitting service where parents could get their children’s feet measured and fitted regularly by a qualified shoe fitter. The sector is now much more fashion-driven and in many cases, children’s items are simply cut down versions of adult footwear. ‘Self-Selection’, whether in-store or online, is now the norm and only a small number of outlets or retailers offer any form of fitting service. For parents, this means there is little or no help from experienced staff. It is, therefore, important that footwear on sale is, at the very least, correctly and consistently size marked and has good fitting properties for the average foot, with enough room for some growth and to allow the foot to function correctly.

Adults are capable of making an informed decision when buying footwear because a poor fit will usually result in immediate discomfort. Children, however, due to the amount of fatty tissue that surrounds the foot and the gaps between the bones in a young developing skeleton, are only aware of slight pressure on the foot as the excessive tissue

spreads this pressure and the bones slightly compress to compensate. This makes it all the more important that children’s footwear is developed, designed and manufactured to ensure better fitting footwear.

With children’s shoes, it is essential that every attempt is made to minimise distortion of the developing foot. The skill of the shoe maker must ensure that footwear is correctly matched to the end use, so that these effects are kept at a minimum. Ideally, the lasts should be assessed prior to production and the shoes made on those lasts fitted on a range of children to ensure they fit the marked size and have adequate growth room. No two pairs of feet are the same and no two pairs of shoes will fit same.

The principles of good fit are that the footwear should match the size and proportions of the child’s feet, have the correct shape and accommodation for the toes, and allow the foot to function in the activities and applications for which the footwear is designed. It should also be designed, constructed and manufactured from materials and to standards that ensure fitting and comfort properties are maintained throughout the footwear’s lifetime and promote foot health and not cause any discomfort.

More specifically, as mentioned previously, there should be no pressure causing distortion of the foot or toes and there should be adequate space for growth. In addition, there should be a fastening system which holds the foot securely in the correct position and

alignment in the footwear, with this fastening system being adjustable to accommodate a range of individual foot shapes. The upper should not have hard seams or create high pressure points on any part of the foot to cause discomfort or rubbing, and the shoe bottom should have a low, broad heel to provide a stable platform. Also, the bottom construction should be slightly cushioning and flexible, bending in the correct position with respect to the joint of the foot. Arch supports should be avoided, unless they are bespoke to suit an individual’s needs. It has to be accepted, however, that for some styles of footwear, compromises will have to be made. For example, some styles will not have a fastening system.

While it is understandable that children and their parents want fashionable footwear, the challenge for manufacturers is to develop good looking, popular styles that do not compromise growing feet.

SATRA can provide training courses for member companies in all aspects of footwear fitting and comfort assessment to ensure relevant staff are competent. It trains technologists to carry out footwear fitting trials on new footwear ranges and to undertake the SATRA Comfort Index, an assessment unique to SATRA that provides a measure of whole shoe comfort.

Companies interested in finding out more about SATRA’s technical services for footwear can contact footwear@satra.com. www.satra.com AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 44

PREVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BERTOY Belgian company Bertoy is an exclusive distributor in the UK and Ireland. Its latest addition, Israeli brand Krooom, specialises in toys that inspire eco-awareness, with each product made out of cardboard and 100 per cent recyclable.

Stand: R40

NOODOLL Noodoll is a fun and playful design brand that creates accessories, plush monsters and stationery. All products are made in the brand’s London studio.

Stand: P31

BLADE & ROSE British children’s clothing brand Blade & Rose specialises in accessories and trend setting leggings featuring stylish and quirky designs on the bottom.

Stand: U40

TOP DRAWER A/W16 EDIT 11-13 September 2016 • Olympia, London www.topdrawer.co.uk

Curated lifestyle show Top Drawer is set to present its A/W16 edit on 11-13 September at Olympia, London. The event will play host to leading UK and international design-led brands, including a showcase of children’s gifts ranging from toys and games through to clothes and accessories. Here’s CWB’s pick from the line-up.

A LITTLE LOVELY COMPANY This brand’s philosophy is to transform everyday home and kids’ room decor into unique pieces with a personal and creative touch. The collection includes lightboxes, word banners, garlands, children’s room items and seasonal decorations.

Stand: V39

TULIPOP Targeted at children of all ages, giftware brand Tulipop is based on the magical island of Tulipop along with its inhabitants – quirky characters with lovable, gender-bending personalities.

Stand: R38

DOTTY DUNGAREES Children’s clothing brand Dotty Dungarees initially offered only traditional dungarees, but has since added dungaree dresses. Each pair of dungarees is designed to fit both boys and girls and can be adjusted to allow up to a year’s worth of wear.

Stand: T30 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 45

PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Style GUIDE:

UBANG From £2.86, 07500 965218 —

KNOCK YOUR SOCKS OFF: Socks needn’t always be plain – check out CWB’s pick of fun designs.

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

PETITES PATTES Three-pair set with gift box £6 07471 060385 —

BRAVELING £7.50, 07808 922525 —

CÓNDOR ¤3.25 per pair, 020 3286 1451 —

ETIQUETTE CLOTHIERS ¤2.80 per pair, 07970 383188 — AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 46

PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

LAURA

LOVES

01

02

03

04

05

06

01: BUBBLEGUM STUFF Happy rabbit spoon and fork £3.75 020 3411 1636

02: HOMEYNESS LIBERTY KIDS Gift box with bib and pacifier clip £11.50 0045 42726300

03: A LITTLE LOVELY COMPANY Mini apple and pear lights ¤4.25 and ¤4.10 0031 507370191

04: WILLOW & IVY Leather hair clips £2.75 jade@willowandivy.co.uk

05: CAM CAM COPENHAGEN Rainbow mobile ¤13 0045 25593100

06: BUNDLEBEAN Buggy organiser £7.50 020 7610 2690

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 47

SCHOOLWEAR BUYER: THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY

51: News

60: Schoolwear Association Update Now in its 10th year, the SA has become the voice of its industry. CWB provides a run-down of the Association’s current agenda, including the formation of new executive teams and the launch of guidelines for schools to clarify specifying and sourcing uniform.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 49

MADE TO LAST

SCHOOLWEAR

...pass it on!

See an array of

bright new products Learn about the

Trutex Advantage

Showcasing innovation at this year’s Schoolwear Show

www.trutex.com Launching

new additions to the sportswear range

Call 01200 421 202 Email: sales@trutex.com TrutexLtd

@TrutexLtd

The UK’s first Carbon Neutral Specialist Schoolwear Provider

SCHOOLWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Schoolwear NEWS: The latest news from the schoolwear industry.

BRENDA’S BRANCHES OUT Camberley independent Brenda’s Schoolwear has opened a school shoe shop.

Located opposite Brenda’s Schoolwear, Shoes 4 School offers popular core styles, all with leather uppers, the majority of which are priced between £20-30. “School footwear is quite a niche market that’s underserved at certain price points,” says Brenda’s Schoolwear partner, Steve Optix. “Over the last couple of years, as we’ve taken on more schools, our retail space for add-ons has dramatically reduced, hindering our footwear sales.”

Shoes 4 School also stocks a more premium footwear range from Pod as well as trainers, wellingtons, plimsolls, ballet shoes, socks, tights, bags and accessories.

—

GOLDEN FINISHES HIRES SALES DIRECTOR Golden Finishes (GF), a UK manufacturer and finisher of embroidered and printed badges, pennants and associated products, has appointed Jeremy Aston-Phillips as sales director. AstonPhillips joins GF from a long career in the embroidered garment sector, having held the position of sales director at Blue Max Banner for over 10 years.

Working directly with GF’s CEO John Sheppard, Aston-Phillips will be responsible for delivering GF’s overall business strategy, overseeing sales, marketing and operations.

“Jeremy joins GF at a point where we have now streamlined the operations and processes within the company to ensure we are ready for the growth ahead,” says Sheppard. “As well as his knowledge in garment distribution and operations, Jeremy has a background in IT and engineering, which will be an asset to GF for the future.”

—

NEWS IN BRIEF

ROWLINSON STRENGTHENS TEAM

Rowlinson Knitwear has confirmed the boardlevel appointment of Neil Ward as commercial director.

Ward, who has more than 10 years of senior management experience within the retail and commercial banking sector, was most recently area director, business banking West and South Yorkshire, at HSBC. “Neil’s significant commercial acumen is matched by his values, energy and exemplary ethics,” says Rowlinson MD Donald Moore. “We became employee owned in 2015 to move closer to achieving our goal of being a great business to work with, and for. Neil will be instrumental in helping us to realise this ambition.”

“Rowlinson Knitwear is a successful, resilient company with passionate people and a qualitydriven, ethical culture,” adds Ward. “Future growth is important to the business, but its reputation for caring deeply about customers and its employees is paramount.”

—

Entry to the Best Schoolwear Store category of the CWB Independent Retail Awards 2016 is open until 30 September. Applying is free, quick and easy: simply visit www.cwb-online.co.uk, opt for the Best Schoolwear Store Award category, and enter your details.

Store images need to be sent to CWBRetailAwards@ras-publishing. com.

DAVID LUKE SPONSORS CWB AWARD David Luke is the official sponsor of the Best Schoolwear Store category in the CWB Independent Retail Awards 2016. Introduced this year, sponsorship packages include digital and print advertising and branding throughout the Awards campaign.

“We are pleased to be sponsoring the Best Schoolwear Store Award, which gives those forward thinking and proactive retailers a chance to shout about their achievements and to show how, and why, they are such a vital part of the supply chain in the schoolwear industry,” says David Luke MD Kathryn Shuttleworth.

“David Luke’s sponsorship of the Best Schoolwear Store award category reaffirms its continued support and investment into the schoolwear industry,” adds CWB editor Laura Turner.

—

BMB ACQUIRE SWI Blue Max Banner (BMB) has acquired SWI Schoolwear, a deal which completed on 1 July.

Renowned for its sportswear portfolio designed collaboratively with athletes and students, SWI will enable BMB to further extend its reach into the sportswear market. SWI also generates around 30 per cent of its product sales through retail partnerships, supporting BMB’s strategy to grow its offering in this space.

“The market continues to change and we need to ensure we adapt and move the business forward through product innovation,” says BMB’s chief executive, Nigel Plenderleith. “To achieve this, it is crucial to have a solid understanding of the needs of the end-user along with a multi-channel reach.”

—

Back to the 80s is the theme of this year’s annual Schoolwear Association (SA) fundraising evening. Taking place on Sunday 9 October, after the first day of The Schoolwear Show, the evening will be held at The Village Hotel, Solihull and includes a three-course dinner. For further information and tickets, which are £50 per head, contact Marie Bradburn on mariebradburn@ talktalk.net.

Discount supermarkets Aldi and Lidl kick-started this year’s Back to School price wars, each releasing full school uniforms for less than £4. Both the chains’ Back to School packages comprise two polo shirts, a sweater, and trousers or pleated skirt, with Aldi charging £3.69 and Lidl £3.75 at time of going to print.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 51

MARTON MILLS CO LTD British Weavers of Quality Fabric

Marton Mills, Pool Mills, Pool in Wharfedale, Otley, West Yorkshire, England. LS21 1TA Tel: +44(0) 113 284 3364 (UK Local rate 0845 090 8121) Fax: +44(0) 113 284 3044 Our email: enquiries@martonmills.co.uk

A brilliant twist on a classic junior girls skirt.

Demand is already high for the NEW junior day skort.

• Brilliant practical alternative, with the look of a skirt • Seamlessly linked, neatly tailored shorts behind the skirt front panel • Comfortable and modest • Girls can continue to have great fun being as active as they want to be • Available in ages 2/3 up to 11/12, and available in grey from stock

DAVID

LUKE

Call: 0161 272 7474 Or visit: www.davidluke.com for further information & images.

Durability in mind. Ethics at heart.

OLS – O H C S O. US STIGIO BEST WILL D E R P FOR LY THE N O N WHE

fabrics ctional ws for n fu t e h allo ional y f tradit vel whic our own e use o is set at a le in th d y e b s tion oces ished and pr Produc istingu ge is d r garments. hand pleated n a r r a u l we of o re all r schoo ery one ated skirts a tter. Ou each and ev le a p m d ll n ti a f Kilts kills s nstruction o ty. Our oring s Prestige School wear Ltd. eal tail etail in the co ility for quali r , r a e chool W attention to d nal responsib S e 209 Mossend Street, Block 6 Unit 15, g ti perso At Pres ith genuine cy and s every time. n w Queenslie Industrial Estate.

Glasgow. G33 4DJ. ie d c le ffi p e cou ial result mmerc erfect both co to ensure p ve Tel: 0141 774 0387 Mob: 07422 516162 Email: mail@prestigeschoolwear.co.uk Autocla

STOP PRESS!

Few stands still available!

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW 9 - 11 OCTOBER 2016 CRANMORE PARK, SOLIHULL THE UK’S ONLY NATIONAL SCHOOLWEAR SHOW PLAYS HOST TO BRITAIN’S LEADING SCHOOLWEAR SUPPLIERS. >>>

1880 CLUB STAND 3

Amaya will be showing a full range of equipment to cater for all your garment decoration requirements.

Tel.02392 590281 Email: sales@amayauk.com www.amayauk.com

BALMORAL KNITWEAR STAND 14A

BLUE MAX BANNER STAND 44/50A

High quality school knitwear in Wool-Acrylic, TPA 100% Acrylic, Cotton-Acrylic and Wool-Nylon.

Stock styles with embroidery; bespoke styles 24+.

Pullovers, cardigans, hats & scarves – UK & off-shore manufacture.

Tel: 01900 829 229 Email: info@balmoralsales.co.uk www.balmoralknitwear.co.uk

BMB is showcasing its extensive range of high quality stock supported and bespoke daywear and sportswear ranges including UK manufactured sublimated teamwear.

Tel: 0333 7000 888 Email: sales@bluemaxbanner.co.uk www.bluemaxbanner.co.uk

CANDY BOWS STAND 46

CARTASPORT.MASITA STAND 17

Cartasport: UK made, skortz, skirts, ath. briefs, gym knickers, lycra shorts, special design football socks. Cricket & rugby clothing.

Masita: Tracksuits, rain jackets, football jerseys/ shorts, polo & T-shirts, Bags.

Tel: 01535 600342 Email: sales@cartasport.com www.cartasport.com

CHARLES KIRK STAND 32

CHADWICK TEXTILES LTD STAND 12

“Brand quality” performance teamsport garments, a fully coordinated stock range.

Meeting the growing demand for high quality functional sportswear in the education sector – “fit for purpose” – talk to the experts.

Tel: 01619272565 Email: sales@chadwicktextiles.co.uk www.chadwicktextiles.co.uk

DENBY DALE CLOTHING STAND 4 Specialists in sourcing and manufacturing of a wide range of bespoke uniform items, both in the UK and offshore.

Tel: 01226 738 390 Email: sales@denbydaleclothing.co.uk www.denbydaleclothing.co.uk

TOTTO FROM BRAND AGILITY LTD q

BLUE MAX BANNER q CARTASPORT.MASITA DAVID LUKE q

q

1880 CLUB q CANDY BOWS q

q

Fabulous vibrant colours and unique prints.

Totto schoolbags are more than capable of standing up to the rough and tumble of the playground.

Tel: 0131 554 5555 Email: george.sandison@brandagility.co.uk www.adventureavenue.co.uk/brands/totto

AWDIS ACADEMY AND PENCARRIE q

Supplier of school uniform you can rely on in every sense. Service, quality, durability & ethics.

A true supporter of the Independent market.

Tel: 0161 272 7474 Email: sales@davidluke.com www.davidluke.com

CHARLES KIRK q

BALMORAL KNITWEAR

TOTTO FROM BRAND AGILITY LTD STAND 30

DAVID LUKE STAND 49

AMAYA SALES UK q

We are proud to be one of the few suppliers that still manufacture, supply, embroider and print, stock and specialised knitwear, sweatshirts and accessories in GB. Tel: 01903 244863 Email: sales@charleskirk.co.uk www.charleskirk.co.uk

For the best in class school wear, look no further than the AWDis Academy range from PenCarrie – new for 2016.

Tel: 0800 252 248 Email: sales@pencarrie.com www.pencarrie.com

CHADWICK TEXTILES LTDq

Candy Bows supplies high quality ‘made to match’ School Hair Accessories utilising grosgrain and gingham ribbon and school uniform fabrics.

Contact: Mrs Charlotte Mackenzie Tel: 0113 203 7194 Email: info@candybows.co.uk www.candybows.co.uk

AWDIS ACADEMY AND PENCARRIE STAND 51

DENBY DALE CLOTHING q

‘Made for the long term’ 1880 CLUB is one of the UK & Ireland’s leading schoolwear manufacturers offering a comprehensive range designed and built for the classroom yet durable enough for the rigours of the playground.

Tel: +44 (0) 28 9332 7777 Email: enquiries@1880club.com www.1880club.com

AMAYA SALES UK STAND 54

DIAMOND TEXTILES LTD STAND 25

EUROPA SPORTS STAND 52

Eskimo EPOS is one of the leading suppliers to Schoolwear Retailers across the UK providing them with effortless stock control in store and online.

Tel: 01202 477111 Email: gary2nebulasystems.net www.eskimoepos.com

We do a wide range of back to school sportswear and clothing. If you can’t find what you are looking for in our catalogue or web page please contact us.

Tel: 0116 278 0562 Email: akeuropasports@aol.com Email: joeuropasports@aol.com www.europasports.co.uk

GARDINERS STAND 2

GYMPHLEX LTD STAND 48

FALCON SPORTSWEAR STAND 23

Gardiners distribute leading lifestyle brands of schoolwear and accessories to the retail trade, worldwide.

Tel: 01452 727 300 Email: sales@gardinerbros.co.uk www.gardinerbros.co.uk

HALBRO SPORTSWEAR LTD STAND 9

Lollipop’s extensive range of quality hair accessories for school enable stockists to gain valuable additional sales. Cotton mix, velvet and ginghams plus many styles of quality basics, all in 12 colours.

Tel: 01494 447000 Email: sales@primrosemktg.co.uk www.primrosemktg.co.uk

Tailored Bespoke Schoolwear, made to the most exacting standards. We create distinctive schoolwear garments to a high specification of design, style, colour, fabric and manufacture.

Tel: 028 7963 2188 Email: mona@kkschoolwear.com www.kkschoolwear.com

MAKURA SPORT LTD STAND 40

Makura Sport are a mouthguard manufacturer based in the UK, since its inception the brand has developed a reputation for producing high quality products at affordable prices accompanied by excellent customer service.

Tel: 0330 333 8940 Email: robert@makurasport.com www.makurasport.com

HALBRO SPORTSWEAR LTD q

HELIX / MAPED q

KK MODEL q

LOLLIPOP q

MAKURA SPORT LTD q

q

LOLLIPOP STAND 27

KK MODEL STAND 33

K.T. LABELS LTD q

FALCON SPORTSWEAR

DIAMOND TEXTILES LTD q

K.T. Labels Ltd – the global name tape supplier.

Providing the finest labels for clothing, property, trophies, wash care and lots more.

New website for 2016!

Tel: 0121 689 2211 Email: info@kwiktapeslabels.com www.kwiktapeslabels.com

Helix has been synonymous with quality educational products for over 125 years and now offer a choice of 3 of the world’s most recognised education brands; Helix, Oxford and Maped.

Tel: 01384 286 860 Email: customerservices@mapedhelix.co.uk www.mapedhelix.co.uk

ESKIMO EPOS q

K.T. LABELS LTD STAND 20

HELIX / MAPED STAND 21

GARDINERS q

Halbro supply bespoke technical sportswear and stock items ideal for all team/school sports and associations. Short delivery times and small minimums.

Tel: 01204 696476 Email: sales@halbro.com www.halbro.com

Building on over a century of high quality supply, Gymphlex (via GFORCE) offers the complete bespoke sportswear solution to the education and sports club markets.

Tel: 0116 255 6326 www.gforcesportswear.co.uk

EUROPA SPORTS q

Falcon Sportswear Ltd is a leading stockist of quality sportswear for all ages. Visit our stand for an introduction to our new products for 2017.

Tel: 01274 306440 Email: email@falconsports.co.uk www.falconsports.co.uk

GYMPHLEX LTD q

Over 20 years of experience in manufacturing high quality, durable fabrics and garments.

Specialists in the fleece and schoolwear market.

Tel: 0116 2510121 Email: info@diamondtextiles.co.uk www.diamondtextiles.co.uk

ESKIMO EPOS STAND 13

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MAGICFIT STAND 34

Marton Mills are delighted to announce the acquisition of Cedric Roberts, this high quality proven wool melton range perfectly compliments our new wool blends collection.

Tel: 0113 2843364 Email: enquiries@martonmills.co.uk www.martonmills.com

OPRO INTERNATIONAL STAND 11

PRESTIGE SCHOOL WEAR LTD STAND 7 We are manufacturers of high quality bespoke and generic girls pleated kilts, skirts, blouses tunics, dresses, culottes and boys trousers, breeks, waistcoats, tailcoats, bermudas and shorts.

Tel: 0141 774 0387 Email: mail@prestigeschoolwear.co.uk

ROWLINSON KNITWEAR LTD STAND 43

Established in 1935, Pex has the UK’s most comprehensive collection of Back to School socks and tights.

Tel: 0116 2861616 Email: info@pex-kids.com

RUSSELL JERZEES, FRUIT OF THE LOOM AND PENCARRIE STAND 29

Come and see why Fruit of the Loom gets outstanding results and why Jerzees Schoolgear gets top marks right across the range.

Visit the PenCarrie stand to view the latest ranges.

Tel: 0800 252 248 Email: sales@pencarrie.com www.pencarrie.com

RESULT CLOTHING STAND 41

Shower and windproof, this new super soft, lightweight and warm ready-to-brand R233J&Y jacket is ideal for wet and windy days. Features include a hinged inner neck panel for selfbranding, reflective hip detail and integral hood.

Tel: 01206 865605 Email: enquiries@resultclothing.com www.resultclothing.com

SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION STAND 24

The Schoolwear Association represents the interests of all those involved in the manufacture and supply of school specific uniform. Established in 2006, the Association is run on a voluntary basis by some of the sector’s most experienced professionals.

Tel: 0121 474 4200 (Trudy Bryan) Email: Info@schoolwearassociation.co.uk www.schoolwearassociation.co.uk

SPOT ON GIFTS STAND 16 UK’s No.1 Trade Supplier of Officially Licensed and Branded Lunch Bags, Water Bottles, Gym Bags. Our products are ideal for School Uniform Retailers.

Tel: 020 8573 0803 Email: info@spotongifts.net www.spotongifts.net

RUSSELL JERZEES, FRUIT OF THE LOOM AND PENCARRIE q

RESULT CLOTHING q

SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION q

SPOT ON GIFTS q

PEX q

MAGICFIT q

Our 2017 school range consist of girls soft classic T-bar Mary Janes to boys tough premium shoes in Tek-tan leathers. Pod range from EU32-52.

Tel: 01234 240 440 Email: sales@aegisshoes.co.uk www.pod-footwear.com

PRESTIGE SCHOOL WEAR LTD q

q

POD FOOTWEAR - AEGIS SHOES LTD STAND 19

ROWLINSON KNITWEAR LTD q

OPRO INTERNATIONAL

PEX STAND 50

MARTON MILLS q

Supplying premium quality knitwear to the schoolwear market for over 80 years, including plain and bespoke, with speedy personalised embroidery and low minimum orders.

Tel: 0161 477 7791 Email: sales@rowlinson-knitwear.com www.rowlinson-knitwear.com

Quality Woven Name Tapes, Iron-on Name Labels, Name Tape Printing Systems, Same-day Despatch, Proud to be a UK Manufacturer!

Tel: 01834 861 446 Email: sales@nationalweaving.co.uk Redstone Mill, Redstone Road, Narberth, Pembs, SA67 7ES

NATIONAL WEAVING q

Three unique brands all available from the OPROGROUP: OPRO self-fit, the most advanced self-fit mouthguards in the world with great margins achievable, Maru, the perfect choice for stylish yet functional swimwear and Mueller sports supports and accessories.

Tel: 01442 430690 ext.1042 Email: Catherine.hughes@oprogroup.com www.oprogroup.com

NATIONAL WEAVING STAND 6

POD FOOTWEAR AEGIS SHOES LTD q

UK manufacturers of quality school socks and tights. The complete one-stop schoolwear and sock knitwear supplier.

Tel: 0116 277 3857 Email: info@magicfit.co.uk www.magicfit.co.uk

MARTON MILLS STAND 47

STABILO STAND 45 STABILO have developed a range of ergonomic writing products suitable for both left and right handers. The range focuses on comfort and efficiency.

Tel: 01753 605 656 Email: sales.uk@stabilo.com www.stabilo.co.uk

SURRIDGE SPORT STAND 35 Surridge Sport supply UK stocked Team Wear and Leisure Wear to the education market.

Specialists in UK manufactured Dye-sublimated Bespoke Playing Kits.

Tel: 01282 418 448 Email: sales@surridgesport.com www.surridgesport.com

TIE & SCARF COMPANY STAND 22 Tie & Scarf Company supply most of the prestigious independent schoolwear/sports retail shops, plus embroidery companies within the U.K with school ties scarves and badges.

Tel: 0161 761 5151 Email: tieandscarf@chaytow.com www.tieandscarf.co.uk

TheMagicTouch offer affordable image transfer solutions for personalised garment and schoolwear decoration. Including the latest digital colour printers and professional heat press equipment.

Tel: 01582 671444 Email: sales@themagictouch.co.uk www.themagictouch.co.uk

TOP TO TOE STAND 18 Our specialist system has been delivering EPOS and stock management solutions to the schoolwear sector for over 25 years.

Come and try out our new product!

Tel: 020 3376 5888 Email: sales@toptopotoe.com Web: www.toptotoe.com

WILLIAM TURNER STAND 31 William Turner boasts an impressive stock range and nearly 50 years in bespoke design.

Look out for their new counter top stands and preview their new look 2017 brochure.

Tel: 0161 480 8582 Email: sales@william-turner.co.uk www.unicol-schoolwear.co.uk

THEMAGICTOUCH (GB) LTD STAND 28

TRUTEX STAND 53 Trutex is synonymous with quality and a trusted brand for generations. With John Hall and AKOA, this reinforces the sales proposition for our customers.

Tel: 01200 4212000 Email: sales@trutex.com www.trutex.com

WINTERBOTTOM’S SCHOOLWEAR STAND 15 Full schoolwear design and bespoke service.

Academy, private and cultural school design projects for retailers. Wide range of stock supported school essentials.

Tel: 01254 390700 Email: info@winterbottoms-schoolwear.co.uk www.winterbottoms-schoolwear.co.uk

WREN SCHOOLWEAR LTD STAND 42 Wren Schoolwear is an independent manufacturer of school dresses, blouses, tunics and skirts using long established British fabrics made to customers own individual requirements.

Tel: 01206 841222 Email: wrenschoolwear@ymail.com www.wrenschoolwear.co.uk

ZECO SCHOOLWEAR STAND 10

TRUTEX q WREN SCHOOLWEAR LTD q

THEMAGICTOUCH (GB) LTD q

TOP TO TOE q WINTERBOTTOM’S SCHOOLWEAR q

SURRIDGE SPORT q

TIE & SCARF COMPANY q

ZECO SCHOOLWEAR q

WILLIAM TURNER q

STABILO q

Celebrating 40 years of supplying high quality, competitively priced school uniforms and affiliated products. Stock all year round ensuring rapid turnaround time.

Tel: 01708 739 390 Email: sales@zecoschoolwear.com www.zecoschoolwear.com

SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION UPDATE CWB gets the latest news from the Schoolwear Association (SA), a not-for-profit body that represents all those involved in the supply of school-specific uniform. Now in its 10th year, the SA has become the voice of its industry and a force for fair and ethical trading. Here, CWB provides a run-down of the Association’s current agenda, including the formation of new executive teams, the launch of guidelines for schools to clarify specifying and sourcing uniform, continued work on the Every Child is Worth It campaign and the plans for October’s Schoolwear Show and this year’s SA fundraiser.

— The Schoolwear Association (SA) was founded in late 2006 as a trade body for the school-specific uniform sector. It represents the interests of more than 200 specialists including retailers, suppliers, wholesalers, fabric manufacturers and garment decorators. Together, its members clothe millions of school children and supply products to 75 per cent of the UK’s schools and academies.

SA RESTRUCTURE The Association’s founding was born out of necessity: to provide a common voice for the industry, particularly for press and bodies who influence its market. The SA Executive gives its time voluntarily in the interests of the industry, working within teams to maximise growth opportunities within the sector. The SA chair is rotated, the role currently held by David Burgess of David Luke. This year sees the SA’s formation reorganised to include new teams, which are as follows: Membership Trudy Bryan – Early Years Sarah Hickling – Schoolwear and More Sean Foster – Foster’s Schoolwear Marie Conroy – Boydell’s Marketing Mike Brumfitt – Falcon Dan Turner – William Turner Kuljeet Dulkoan – Diamond Textiles Political Affairs Gill Phipps – Early Years Alex Gani – School Uniform Direct Mario Valentino – GS by Valentino Darren Wise – Darlcy Garments Matthew Easter – Trutex David Burgess – David Luke

Views Howard Wilder – Blue Max Banner Daran Brown – School Trends Events Marie Bradburn – Agent Peter Dalton – Nextgen Clothing Social Media Linda Painter – Painter PR Ltd. Sarah Hickling - Schoolwear & More Media Philip Linz – The School Uniform Specialists The SA also employs a PR and communications agency for press work.

THE SA CODE OF PRACTICE The SA encourages best practice with a series of initiatives including the development of a robust Code of Practice, which its members are expected to adhere to. In addition, it provides members with a press service and acts as ‘the voice’ of the industry. The SA’s strategy is simply: to focus on the benefits of school uniform and all of the advantages that it can confer on pupils and schools. The SA believes that school-specific uniform can bring greater school pride, improved behaviour and better security for children.

MORE SUPPORT FOR MEMBERS The Association issues factsheets to its members to help with issues they may face and need help on. Such issues can range from how to gain local press for their business to the current situation on raw material prices and how to go about trademarking a logo.

The SA also works extensively with all of the bodies who influence its market, having regular meetings with the Department for Education (DfE), politicians and other

organisations and charities who have the wellbeing of school children at heart. It communicates regularly with schools to encourage them to understand the part that they can play in being fair to those who supply them with uniform, and to encourage them to develop strong relationships with members who are signed up to good practice.

A new guide to buying school uniform and understanding the tendering process is part of that work. The SA believes that quality and service is the way forward for its industry. It does not advocate the trend of ‘disposable’ clothing, instead promoting the belief that a good garment with longevity offers the best value for a parent.

EVERY CHILD IS WORTH IT CAMPAIGN The SA believes every child deserves a quality school-specific uniform, which matches that of everyone else and provides real value for money by lasting longer. The SA upholds that this can only be achieved by schools working closely with specialist suppliers, who can offer suitable solutions for all by using a mix of clothing specific to the school as well as generic items that are more widely available, giving a properly balanced uniform. Specialists recognise the importance of being able to provide all sizes and all colour options all year round, not just at Back to School time.

In order to spread its message that low cost uniform generally isn’t durable, the Association is working with a press team to deliver national media campaigns to promote the importance of good quality uniform for every child in the UK. This campaign is also supported by the SA’s own research, which highlights that it is a preconception that purchasing uniform from specialist suppliers is costly – school uniform costs on average just 45p per school day. What the Association AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 60

SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

identified as the real drain on many family budgets, is the clothing children wear when they are not in school. One individual garment to be worn out of school could cost an average of £46.58, which is £13.10 more than the cost of a full primary school uniform, excluding PE kit.

THE SA AND THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW 2016 Once again, in October, the Association will be attending the biggest event in the schoolwear industry calendar in order to promote the benefits of membership to all schoolwear specialists attending.

Additionally, this year, the Schoolwear Show will be hosting business seminars for the first time during the exhibition. Plans are for the seminars to include information from the SA on how to help schools with the tendering process. The seminars will be held in the SA Coffee Lounge, which this year is sponsored

by Winterbottom Schoolwear.

As in previous years, the Association will also be hosting its annual fundraising event at The Schoolwear Show. This year’s theme is Back to the 80s, with the event set to include a three-course meal and dancing.

LAUNCH OF THE SA GUIDE TO SOURCING AND SPECIFYING UNIFORM The Association’s key project this year was the recent launch of a guide to help clarify the process for schools when it comes to specifying and sourcing uniform. SA chair David Burgess explains the reasons behind the guide’s creation.

“Our new guide to specifying and sourcing school uniform is intended to give head teachers and governors the information they need to ensure every child and every school benefits from the advantages of a high quality, good value uniform in terms of its benefits to learning, behaviour and safety,” says Burgess.

“We advise schools to review their school uniform agreements regularly, ideally every three to five years. Before any review, we recommend schools give their existing supplier(s) reasonable notice as suppliers may have a considerable stockholding of the current school uniform,” he continues. “When reviewing, schools should run a consultation with parents, governors and students, and then discuss any feedback with their selected tenderers.

“It is vital to always consider the quality, price and availability of products and to decide in advance how many products will require branding with the school badge or identity, as the right balance between specific and generic is critical. It’s very important to allow plenty of time for this process.

“Schools should be aware that at some point in the coming year, the DfE guidelines on specifying school uniform are expected to become statutory and they will need to make sure that they are compliant with policy. It is likely that they will need to put contracts out to tender and consider carefully the benefits of sole supplier agreements versus a shared supply arrangement, particularly if a school has been working with a single supplier for some time.

“This change in regulation was the main catalyst behind the launch of our new Guide

to Sourcing and Specifying Uniform, as we felt schools required solid advice on how to undertake what can be an unclear process.

“Frustratingly, many schools are unaware of the preferred supplier timetable in order to achieve cost and delivery efficiencies. Many schools are also unclear as to whether they can choose a sole supplier contract or work with multiple suppliers. The DfE guidelines state either is acceptable.

“There are many choices of supply, such as direct-to-school, independent retailers, multiple retailers, internet suppliers or supermarkets. However, schools must be able to show the decision is best for parents based on factors including availability, price and convenience of supply, ethical sourcing, and consistency of the uniform. The most transparent way to do this is through a tendering process and the SA is working on a practical tendering form to use.

“Moving forwards, we will continue to work with the DfE to provide advice on how the industry works and offering help with regards to the guidelines becoming statutory. We will be updating the guide as and when we receive further information,” concludes Burgess.

To download a copy of the guide, please visit the website: www.schoolwearassociation. co.uk/schools-info/ (Extra printed copies are available to SA members for their schools.)

SA GUIDE: FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Q: How long do suppliers need prior to delivery?

A: Specialist suppliers typically make contact with their schools in October to ensure there are no changes planned. Autumn is when their stocks of uniform are at their lowest after the busy Back to School period. This is the time schools should inform them of any intention to

change, as suppliers need to order garments at least three to four months in advance of delivery, longer for bespoke items. Schools should aim to finalise their decision before Christmas to give the supplier plenty of time to meet their needs. Otherwise, they should make Easter term the cut-off point.

Q: How can we ensure we lower the price of uniforms for disadvantaged families?

A: On average, children spend 10 hours a day in school uniform, so comfort and durability are vital. Responsible specialist suppliers should provide sensible advice and quality products at competitive prices with a mix of school-specific uniform items and generic garments to create a smart look at an acceptable price. Many SA members and other suppliers help schools to help disadvantaged families via a number of schemes, which you can find out more about on the SA website.

Q: What questions are important to include within a tender document?

A: The tender form should be specific to school uniform and only ask relevant questions to encourage more suppliers to tender and make the process more competitive and open.

It should give clear details about the items required, so that prices can be compared, and give information regarding likely quantities and pupil numbers per school year. An example form can be downloaded on the SA website in the ‘schools’ section.

Q: Should specialist suppliers meet with a school face-to-face?

A: It is always beneficial to have a face-to-face meeting, or at least a telephone call, to clarify requirements. The better you understand the school’s needs, the better you will be able to serve them.

Members can join the association from £50 per year. Details can be found at www.schoolwearassociation.co.uk AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 61

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A Agatha Ruiz de la Prada 0034 9655 46899 www.tuttopiccolo.com • Albetta 01628 820082 www.s-cbrands.com • A Little Lovely Company 0031 5073 70191 www.alittlelovelycompany.nl • Angel’s Face www.angels-face.co.uk • Annaliv 020 8144 2118 www.annaliv.co.uk • Arsène et les Pipelettes 0033 5243 35780 www.arseneetlespipelettes.com B Bimble Shoes 07866 493173 www.bimbleshoes.com • Blade & Rose 07920 752260 www.bladeandrose.co.uk • Blue Max Banner 01225 715070 www.bluemaxbanner.co.uk • Bo-Bell 00351 225074153 www.bo-bell.pt • Bobux 01280 701683 www.bobux.com • Braveling 07808 922525 www.braveling.co.uk • Bubblegum Stuff 020 34111 636 www.bubblegumstuff. com • Bubble London 020 7596 5061 www.bubblelondon.com • Bundlebean 020 7610 2690 www.bundlebean.com C Cam Cam Copenhagen 0045 2559 3100 www.camcam.dk • Charlotte Mathieu 07934 752108 www.charlotte-mathieu.com • Cóndor 020 3286 1451 www.condor.es D Daisy Roots 01604 880066 www.daisy-roots.com • David Luke 0161 272 7474 www.davidluketrade.com • Didriksons 0046 3312 7120 www.didriksons. com • Dionne Gooding 020 3857 4808 www.dionnegooding.com E Ecco www.ecco.com • Emile et Rose 01392 677555 www.emile-et-rose.co.uk • Etiquette Clothiers 07970 383188 www.littleicons.co.uk F Forivor 07811 461231 www.forivor.com • Four’eMki 020 3857 4808 www.fouremki.com • French King 0033 1423 30113 www.french-king.fr • Froddo 01707 888388 www.froddo.com • Frugi 01326 558462 www.frugiwholesale.com G Gioseppo Kids 0116 259 7427 www.gioseppo.com • Golden Finishes 02920 741650 www.goldenfinishes.com • Gosoaky 07970 383188 www.littleicons. co.uk H Haus of Jr Johnny@the-leverage.com www.hausofjr.com • Homeyness Liberty Kids 0045 4272 6300 www.homeyness.co.uk • House of Bibs 07923 346324 www.houseofbibs.com • Hush Puppies 020 7860 0100 www.hushpuppies.co.uk I Igor 07786 136260 www.igor.es • Ipanema 01992 701832 www.ipanema. uk.com K KIDD-IN London 07583 907558 www.kiddinnlondon.co.uk • Kite 01202 733222 www.kite-clothing.co.uk • Kokori 07900 956892 www.kokori.co.uk L Lara & Ollie 07968 210479 www.laraandollie.co.uk • Lelli Kelly 0039 0583 4311 www.lellikelly.it • Little Lord & Lady 01484 917597 www.littlelordandlady. co.uk • Little Lulu’s 0114 2218276 www.little-lulus.com • Little Miss Aoki 0039 3471 271405 www.mischkaaoki.com • Love Mae 01628 820082 www. scandi-chic.com • Lurchi by Salamander 01664 454920 www.hbshoes.co.uk M MAÁ Shoes 0034 965815230 www.maashoes.com • Mama Designs 01993 359897 www.angelmaternity.co.uk • Manuela de Juan 0034 965815230 www.manueladejuan.com • Milou & Pilou 0034 606 971 511 www.milouandpilou.com • Mimosa 07910 491067 www.mimosakids.com • Minijammies 07779 146051 www.cyberjammies.co.uk • Moksha Cashmere 07784 290208 mokshacashmerebaby.co.uk • Molo 020 70994730 www.molo.com N Nana Momo Makes 07807 804086 www.nanamomomakes.co.uk • Nibbling Teething Jewellery 07943 958860 www.nibbling.co.uk • Noodoll 020 7253 1890 www.noodoll.com • Noook 07513 250198 www.noook.eu P Pehr 01628 820082 www.scandi-chic.com • Petites Pattes 07471 060385 www.petitespattes.co.uk • Plae UK 020 7281 8499 www.goplae.co.uk • Pocopato 07506 957930 www.pocopato.pl • Pom D’Api 0033 6036 02804 www.pomdapi.fr • Potwells Trading 0845 6531493 www.potwellstrading.co.uk R Rachel Riley 020 7935 7007 www.rachelriley.co.uk • RAP 07967 560633 www.arautorap.com • Richter 0043 7229 70071 www.richter.at • Ricosta 0116 259 7427 www.ricosta.de • Rowlinson Knitwear 0161 477 7791 www.rowlinson-knitwear.com S Salt-Water Sandals 07887 538593 www.salt-watersandals.com • Samphire

by Petasil 01604 876800 www.petasil.com • Satra 01536 410000 www.satra. co.uk • Schoolwear Association 0116 204 4862 www.schoolwearassociation. co.uk • Shoo Pom 0033 6036 02804 www.pomdapi.fr • Skummis 01235 848192 www.northlightdesign.co.uk • Snoozebaby 020 3744 1056 www.littlesaints.co.uk • Solillas 020 8144 0448 www.solillas.com • S.Oliver 0049 5231 605351 www.soliver-shoes.com • Superfit 07775 995547 www.superfit.at T The Little Shoemaker 01273 504187 www.thelittleshoemaker.com • Tots Bots 0141 774 6437 www.totsbots.com • Tootsa www.tootsa.com U Ubang 07500 965218 www.ubang.dk W Wild & Gorgeous 0844 371 3301 www.ilovegorgeous.co.uk • Willow & Ivy jade@willowandivy.co.uk www.willowandivy.co.uk Z Zaxy 020 7377 2570 www.zaxyshoes.co.uk

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 63

DIRECTORY | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

ACCESSORIES

DISTRIBUTOR WANTED

SCHOOL TIES

Balloon Bijoux Girls hair & fashion accessories for all ages www.balloonbijoux.co.uk

New organic label with a unique concept are looking for a distributor in the UK.

TO ADVERTISE IN THE CWB DIRECTORY PLEASE CALL MICHELE ON

0208 207 2500 info@balloonbijoux.co.uk

01484 848337

Balloon Bijoux The Telegraph(UK) March 2015 “I am impressed by this organic babywear brand”.

OR EMAIL MICHELE @RAS-PUBLISHING.COM

Tel: +31(0)30 7514025 Email: natalie@daddyproof.nl www.daddyproofkidswear.com

SCHOOLWEAR

AGENCY

ORCHARD AGENCY Chris, Carol, Lisa & Ray are the team behind Orchard, a leading second generation childrens clothing agency in the UK, with expertise in London and the South East.

Orchard Agency, 28 Fourth Avenue, Frinton-on-Sea, Essex CO13 9DX Tel: 01255 674301 Email: chris@orchardagency.co.uk carol&ray@orchardagency.co.uk

BABY & KIDS SHOES

CWB BUSINESS DIRECTORY WELDON AGENCIES SCHOOL TIES

TIE & SCARF COMPANY

The specialist in

SCHOOL TIES plus badges

VANHUIZEN AGENCIES

TO ADVERTISE IN THE CWB DIRECTORY PLEASE CALL MICHELE ON

01484 848337 OR EMAIL MICHELE @RAS-PUBLISHING.COM

Established for over 25 years, two generations, covering all areas of the UK. Representing leading brands from Europe and Canada, catering for boys and girls 0 to 16 years. Styling from contemporary to traditional.

FUN & FUN, LE CHIC, DEUX PAR DEUX, NO NO, BOBOLI, FOQUE, SARDON, LARANJINHA, ITTY LONDON Weldon Agencies, Southport, Merseyside Tel: 01704 576033 Email: barrieweldon@btconnect.com, andrewweldon@btconnect.com www.weldonagencies.co.uk

Warth Industrial Park, Warth Road, Bury BL9 9NB Tel: 0161 761 5151 Fax: 0161 762 0202 Email: tieandscarf@chaytow.com Web: www.tieandscarf.co.uk

Van Huizen Agencies is a young, fresh and vibrant agency, for the more discerning retailer requiring beautiful and unique collections.

OILILY KIDS, ROOM SEVEN KIDS, RAP KIDS SHOES Unit 12, Derwent Business center, Clarke Street, DERBY DE1 2BU Tel: 07967 560633 Email: franck@vanhuizenagencies.co.uk www.vanhuizenagencies.co.uk

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 65

TALKING POINT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

MARK TWEED UK sales director, Cyberjammies Leading women’s sleepwear brand Cyberjammies has extended its remit to include children with its new collection, Minijammies. CWB speaks to the company’s UK sales director Mark Tweed to get the lowdown on the new kids’ offer as well as learning more about the brand’s heritage and its investment into helping provide the perfect night’s sleep.

Laura Turner: What’s the story behind Cyberjammies?

Mark Tweed: The brand was established in 2002 by the Sadarangani family from India; a family with a proven track record in delivering excellent quality nightwear around the world.

To that point, Suresh, the father of the family, had always felt that quality was compromised on the high street as a result of restrictions on price. He therefore set about creating a sleepwear range starting with the fabric first.

By ensuring the fabric was extra special, the range was developed with quality and softness as a priority. Our brand has stood for fantastic value and amazing quality ever since.

instant after the launch, with House of Fraser agreeing to stock the range almost immediately. It was only a short period after, around two years later, that we also managed to secure John Lewis as another major customer.

We haven’t looked back since.

LT: When did you join Cyberjammies?

MT: I joined in 2004. I was previously a merchandiser, with over seven years’ experience in various departments, most importantly, ladies’ sleepwear.

LT: What does the Minijammies collection offer?

MT: For s/s 17, the early range’s focus is pyjama sets, but the later deliveries include shorts, vests, T-shirts, mini shirts and a playsuit. Our girls’ range has a real mix of colours extending from greys, pinks and purples through to striking reds, pretty pastels and fresh aquas and whites. For the boys, it’s no surprise that blue is a dominant theme throughout, together with grey; a bolder mix of colour marks the start of the high summer range for boys. The age range is from 4-5 years through to 12-13 years for boys and girls.

LT: What inspired the brand name, Cyberjammies?

MT: Jammies as a name for pyjamas has been around for a long time. Having decided to launch the brand online first, back in 2002, Cyber was a word commonly used for online, so we put the two together. Things have moved on since then, digitally and for our brand, but the name has stuck.

LT: When and how did Cyberjammies get its big break?

MT: Cyberjammies’ big break was pretty

LT: What instigated the launch of Minijammies?

MT: We’ve been discussing the introduction of a kids’ collection for some time. With such a loyal and expanding group of female customers, we were confident that they would welcome the addition of a kids’ range for their children and grandchildren.

LT: What do you predict Minijammies’ bestsellers to be?

MT: They are all winners! At least we think so.

For girls, I would say watch out for the butterfly

collection. The dinosaur range is fantastic for boys, too.

LT: Are there plans to expand the Minijammies collection over time?

MT: We are always looks to develop and expand the collections. For now, our focus is on delivering the current offer to the best of our ability.

LT: What sets Minijammies apart from the competition?

MT: We are absolutely dedicated to the softest and best quality sleepwear there is. With such a focus, we believe it sets us apart from any other sleepwear in the market. Our sales growth to date certainly backs this up.

LT: Where do you see Minijammies in five years’ time?

MT: We hope to be in over 150 department stores and independent boutiques, with a strong presence online across multiple etailers, too. We aim to become the household name for branded kids’ sleepwear in the same way Cyberjammies is for women.

LT: Tell us something we don’t know about Cyberjammies…

MT: Cyberjammies will use in excess of 250,000 metres of fabric within the next year to produce its collection orders worldwide.

Each and every fabric we use is designed and engineered by us, alongside our partner mills, to ensure we have the softest and most durable fabrics for our nightwear.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 - 66

11—13 September 2016 Olympia, London

CHILDREN’S Experience the beautifully curated world of Children’s at Top Drawer, London’s international event for creative retailers.

From toys and games to clothes and accessories, this is where you’ll find gifts that children will cherish.

REGISTER NOW topdrawer.co.uk/childrens

A is for Apple and V is for Vegan…

It’s hard enough teaching our kids the alphabet, yet alone teaching them ethics. RAP has always been known for its ECO friendly credentials and now with its new VEGAN Kids collection, which has been created using a natural cork upper, organic cotton lining, water based non animal derived glues and a natural crepe sole, it’s 100% PeTA approved Vegan too.

So now YOU can support good ethics, whilst we support your kids feet.

RAP for your little eco warriors…

Come visit us at MODA stand F59 or make an appointment with Franck@arautorap.com Tel: 07967 560633