Jewellery Historian, issue #05 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

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FRQWHQWV 06-Issue Globe 08-Editor's letter 10-News News from around the globe 22-Auctions Important jewels at Christie's 28-Interview : Matthew Campbell Laurenza 40-Travel : Florence 42-Matthew Campbell Laurenza Seranade to the senses 58- Theodoros Highly seductive pieces of jewelry 86- Katherine Jetter The opal's queen 102-The unique breathtaking beauty of gems Topaz 108-Our Faves Jewellery we loved this month 116-Our News The news of the Jewellery Historian

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TREASURES FROM INDIA JEWELS FROM THE AL-THANI COLLECTION Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York October 28, 2014-January 25, 2015 Gallery 464: Gallery for the Art of Later South Asia

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The Teschen Table A monument commemorating European history. The War of Bavarian Succession broke out in 1778, when Maximilian Joseph, Elector of Bavaria, died without a legitimate heir on December 30, 1777. The clash between contenders to the Bavarian throne, which also threatened the interests of the Prince-Elector of Saxony, centered round the rivalry between the Holy Roman Emperor Joseph II and King Frederick II of Prussia. For six months this conflict, gravely threatening the balance of European power, prompted impressive troop movements and intense diplomatic negotiations. The emperor's brother-in-law Louis XVI played a dominant role in the â&#x20AC;&#x153;diplomatic warâ&#x20AC;? led by the French foreign minister, the Comte de Vergennes. The king wisely refused to involve France in an armed conflict. Louis-Auguste Le Tonnelier, Baron de Breteuil, his ambassador in Vienna, was charged with vigorously affirming Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s neutrality and offering to mediate. During the peace negotiations in Teschen, a city now divided into two towns in the Czech Republic and Poland, Breteuil conducted himself courteously, discreetly, and skillfully. The Teschen Peace Treaty was signed on May 13, 1779, under the successful joint mediation of France and Russia. As a mark of gratitude for his ministrations, and particularly for safeguarding the interests of Saxony, Baron de Breteuil received as a gift from Frederick Augustus III, Elector of Saxony, this table decorated with semiprecious stones. The Teschen Table or Table of Peace, a genuine monument commemorating a key event in European history, has remained with his descendants until today. To many historians, the Teschen Table immortalizes the Treaty of Teschen, considered by diplomats to be the first modern treaty in which two nations, France and Russia, served as guarantors of peace between Austria and Prussia and, more globally, collective security in Europe. -HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ

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A masterpiece by Johann Christian Neuber, goldsmith and mineralogist (1736–1808) Johann Christian Neuber (1736–1808), a hardstone merchant and principal jeweler to the court of Saxony, finished his career as curator of the royal collections amassed in the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault) in Dresden by the electors of Saxony since the Renaissance. Herein undoubtedly lies the originality of an artist who was also a man of science and inventor of the “Zellenmosaic” technique, or mosaic composed of hardstones and semiprecious stones extracted from Saxony’s mineral deposits. Neuber was renowned for his snuffboxes, genuine miniature mineral display cabinets captioned with numbers and accompanied with an explanatory booklet, keenly collected by scientists and scholars. The Louvre has twelve of these exceptional Steinkabinett Tabatieren on display in the new Department of Decorative Arts galleries devoted to the 18th century (room 56). During the Enlightenment, while Paris was the undisputed capital of taste and fashion in Europe, Neuber distinguished himself by his personal, innovative style. With the Teschen Table, Neuber created one of the first neoclassical masterpieces in Germany: shaped feet, garland decoration, palmette friezes, fluted legs reinterpreted to exalt the goût grec (Greek taste). The grisaille medallions painted on Saxony porcelain by Johann Eleazar Zeissig, known as Schenau, are still in keeping with the rococo tradition, but the iconography is clearly inspired by the Antiquity and neoclassical in nature, particularly the central medallion depicting the closing gates of the temple of war and the flame reignited over the altar of Peace. A new masterpiece for the recently inaugurated 18th-century decorative arts galleries. Solemnly presented on January 1, 1780 to the Court of Dresden, and celebrated as far as Versailles upon its arrival in France in August, the Teschen Table has remained in the Breteuil family since the 18th century, and has rarely been exhibited outside the Château de Breteuil, in the Chevreuse Valley, 40 km west of Paris. In 2012, it was the focus of remarkable exhibitions at the Grünes Gewölbe (Dresden), the Frick Collection (New York), and the Galerie Kugel (Paris). The addition of this exceptional table to the Louvre's new 18th-century decorative arts galleries inaugurated in June 2014 would be a highlight of the museum. Showcased within the revamped museum space, the artwork would be given a worthy setting at the center of the neoclassical masterpieces. Its acquisition is a unique opportunity to welcome a masterpiece whose symbolic, historical, and artistic dimensions naturally resonate with the Louvre's vocation as a national museum.

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AUCTIONS

Lot 444 A LATE 19TH CENTURY SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BROOCH Estimate: £400,000-500,000 Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

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IMPORTANT JEWELS /RQGRQ 1RYHPEHU Christieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s London announced highlights of the upcoming Important Jewels auction on 26 November 2014. The sale ( sale 1874 ) includes an array of both antique and modern jewellery, signed pieces by the great houses such as Cartier, Chaumet, Dior, Graff, Mauboussin, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels, together with some exceptional coloured stones and diamonds. The sale totals 444 lots and is expected to achieve in excess of ÂŁ9 million. Leading the sale is a late 19th century sapphire and diamond brooch (estimate: ÂŁ400,000500,000, illustrated left). At over 14 carats, this exceptional treasure was once owned by the Hon Evelina Rothschild, and could well have been a wedding present to the bride when she married Clive Behrens on 5 December 1899. What makes this brooch so special is the sapphire which is of Kashmir origin, bears no indications of heating and is rare in its finely proportioned cut and richly saturated colour. The sale offers two more highly desirable sapphires, a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;royal blueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; late 19th century Burmese sapphire and diamond pendant of over 41 carats (estimate ÂŁ200,000-300,000), and a Ceylon sapphire and diamond ring of 23 carats (estimate ÂŁ200,000-300,000). With collectorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ever-increasing demand for investment quality diamonds, Christieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s London is proud to offer an excellent selection of stones in a variety of cuts and colours. There are several private collections within this sale, each containing rare jewels of high importance. Christieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is honoured to present The Property of a Lady, sold by order of The Executors. This private collection features a group of beautiful Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery-Set jewels; the patented mystery setting technique exemplifies the jewellery houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s superb level of craftsmanship. >

Lot 438 A PAIR OF DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY GRAFF Estimate: ÂŁ150,000-180,000 Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S ÂŠ CHRISTIE'S

Lot 440 A FANCY COLOURED DIAMOND RING Of crossover design, set with two opposing pear shaped diamonds, comprising a Fancy Deep Blue diamond weighing approximately 1.54 carats and a Fancy Intense Pink diamond weighing approximately 1.78 carats, to tapering shoulders and plain hoop. Estimate: ÂŁ300,000-500,000 Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S ÂŠ CHRISTIE'S

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TOP SIGNED JEWELS : CARTIER The Cartier section of this sale comprises over 70 pieces, and encapsulates the broad spectrum of design of this great jewellery house; from an early 20th century enamel and diamond desk clock, Art Deco aquamarine and diamond ear pendants, an emerald and diamond scarab brooch of the 1950s, to the modern day with eleven iconic ‘Panthere’ jewels, each capturing the essence of this famous Cartier motif in their sleek and alluring form. Among the Cartier pieces to be presented at the auction, an early 20th century enamel and diamond minute repeating desk clock ( Lot 223, illustrated right) with an estimate of £15,000-20,000. The circular cream dial with black painted Arabic numerals and rose- cut diamond-set hands, to the white enamel beaded bezel and blue guillochI enamel case, with further white enamel borders and central single rose-cut diamond star motif accents, with moonstone push piece, raised on a carved agate base, mechanical movement, circa 1915, 7.0cm high. Among the Cartier pieces at this sale, a gem and diamond scarab clip brooch ( Lot 220, illustrated below). The scarab motif has permeated jewellery design since the time of the ancient Egyptians, who worshiped this beetle as a symbol of the sun god.

Lot 177 A DIAMOND ‘PANTHERE’ RING, BY CARTIER Estimate: £12,500-18,500 Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Napoleon’s expedition to Egypt in 1798 began a renaissance in the fascination of Egyptian motifs in the decorative arts. After the opening of the Suez canal in 1867, all things Egyptian were again brought to the fore and jewellery with this design infuence was very popular, including the scarab motif. This fashion was revived in 1923 at the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb. Cartier were quick to recognise the design possibilities that Egyptian symbolism had to offer and both incorporated ancient fragments into their works, as well as using the prevalent imagery as inspiration for overall design. This particular brooch is an unusual example as it dates from a later period, the 1950s and combines both Cartier’s knowledge of Egyptian and Indian jewels, utilising a carved Indian emerald to represent the scarab’s wing covers. -HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ

Lot 220 A GEM AND DIAMOND SCARAB CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER Estimate: £8,000-12,000 Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 417 A PAIR OF MYSTERY-SET RUBY AND DIAMOND ‘FLEURETTES’ EAR PENDANTS, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Estimate: £80,000-100,000 Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 223 AN EARLY 20TH CENTURY ENAMEL AND DIAMOND MINUTE REPEATING DESK CLOCK, BY CARTIER Estimate: £15,000-20,000 Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 403 A SINGLE-STONE DIAMOND RING, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Estimate: £150,000-200,000 Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT

www.christies.com ( SALE 1574 )

Lot 240 A PAIR OF ART DECO AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY CARTIER Estimate: £20,000-25,000 Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

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NEXT MONTH DISCOVER

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THE TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT OF THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

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THE TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT OF THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

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Infused with inspiration from countries worldwide and his background in sculpture, jewelry and architecture, American designer Matthew Campbell Laurenza blends experiences and cultures to produce unique and distinctive jewelry designs. Matthew Campbell Laurenza makes his presence known in the fashion world with his extravagant, statement accessories. Since launching M.C.L Design in 1998, he has captivated admirers around the globe by his glamorous jeweled pieces created with his signature style. Interview to Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

How did you start your label?

assortment are the next element and are often based on color or seasonal trends. In this way I Originally, I studied sculpture and realized that I always remain current. wanted to be as prolific as possible. To make a large impact, I turned to jewelry. Jewelry is small The most valuable lesson you have learned ? sculpture and is something that can not only be admired (like traditional sculpture) but it is also To do what is true to you and your aesthetic. If something that can be worn and is obviously you can develop something that is unique and highly mobile. In 1998, I opened M.C.L Design your style then you will find a market. The world and have been doing it ever since. This year, I is now a very small place so product that once launched the first sculpture exhibition since my was limited to sales in a single region now has graduation and it can be seen on the possibility to sell all over the world with the www.Jeweledgarden.com. right outreach and marketing. How do you approach a new collection? Where do your ideas come from? I approach collections on a very sculptural level. I often toy around with shapes and volumes and determine what shapes would work best for the end user. Once the shape has been determined, design elements become the decorative element for the shapeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the â&#x20AC;&#x153;frosting,â&#x20AC;? if you willâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and the two combined result in the final design. Colors and stone -HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ

How do you define luxury? Luxury is often driven by the pricetag it really is something moreâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;it is the value of a design, its rarity in the market place, and of course the materials used. The desire for uniqueness and rarity is one of the reasons we offer so many variations in color and styles. Our clients do not want to be â&#x20AC;&#x153;cookie cutter.â&#x20AC;?

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What materials and techniques do you favor?

Your heroes in real life ?

I am a big fan of gemstonesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;especially those that have a wide variation of colors like sapphires or tourmalines. In my namesake collection M.C.L, I use fancy-color sapphires which I pair with bright enamel colors to increase the drama of the design and accent the beauty of the stones. I choose to use sterling silver as a base which means that I can create large statement pieces with all of the stones individually hand-set while keeping them obtainable to a wider audience.

My Family is always there to support me and give encouragement. Regardless of success, there is always a need for a team supporting you and they are that for me.

Where do you got the inspiration for your latest collection ? I draw all of my inspiration from the decorative arts and architecture that I encounter in my travels. The design aspects have been inspired by curiosities I find scattered around auctions, junk shops, museums and on the buildings that hold them. The attitude of the pieces are inspired by interesting people, customers or icons that I admire.

A material you believe that will never stop using in your collections ? Stones. I can t get enough of them. The accessory/jewelry/gemstone you can't live without. Accessory- Phone Jewelry- watch Gemstone- sapphires What we should expect from you in the future ? I will be creating more lifestyle oriented pieces. I want to share my aesthetic in as many aspects of oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life as possible. Your favorite motto?

Do you have a favorite designer (fashion, architect, or other) that you admire ?

Let design be part of your life.

Fashion-Poiret Architecture- Louis Henry Sullivan Artist- Louise Nevelson Jeweler- Rene Lalique Your favorite ancient culture that inspires you . This is such a hard question because there are so many interesting aspects in so many ancient cultures. In Asia, the Khmer empire had so many beautiful and decorative things which have inspired me. The pre-Columbian cultures have influenced many designs with their severe treatment of lines. In Europe, the Dark Ages with their gothic architecture is constantly a source of inspiration. Persia with its Ottoman architecture. I could go on and on.

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M.C.L by Matthew Campbell Laurenzaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection launched at Bergdorf Goodman in 2007 to commercial and critical acclaim. With notable mentions in The New York Times and Time Magazine, Matthew Campbell Laurenza makes his presence known in the fashion world with his extravagant, statement accessories. Since launching M.C.L Design in 1998, he has captivated admirers around the globe by his glamorous jeweled pieces created with his signature style.

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