JEWELLERY HISTORIAN, #24 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

FACES OF DESIGN

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier welcomes you with his

KONG

“Editor’s Letter” and invites you to discover

The most valuable earrings ever to appear at

PRECIOUS AUCTION | HONG

creativity.

auction, the “Apollo & Artemis Diamonds” lead

ENTICE UNFOLDS MASTERPIECES

Preeta Agarwal, with her first article at the

For spring 2017, the famous Parisian maison

Jewellery Historian, invites us to discover an

introduces us a new collection, Ondine.

MATHON | PARIS

exceptional collection.

PRECIOUS AUCTION | NEW YORK

PRECIOUS AUCTION

An exceptional sale of magnificent jewels,

The “Pink Star” sells for a record price and is

including the Legendary Stotesbury emerald and

renamed “The CTF Pink”

of unique jewellery with exceptionnal provenance.

ARTISTAR JEWELS 2017

Together we discover the winners of the fourth

The Metropolitan Museum of Art present a

edition of Artistar 2017 and a new generation of

unique exhibition Rei Kawakubo/Comme des

artists.

Garçons : Art of the In-Between.

REI KAWAKUBO | MET MUSEUM

NE W BOO K

a v aila b le at ww w. jewe lle ry hist o rian. co m

FACETS OF MANKIND

PICCHIOTTI: 50 YEARS IN STYLE

An exclusive preview of the first book made by the We discover the creative storied past of Italy’s

Jewellery Historian.

preeminent high-jeweler, Picchiotti, founded half a century ago.

109

OCÉANOS BY CARRERA Y CARRERA

JADEITE

Together with discover the exceptional latest collection of the international Spanish jewellery firm,

Eva Kountouraki introduces the amazing jadeite, a

one of the most prestigious in the world.

gift from nature.

113

DINNY HALL

GEA: THE ORIGIN OF CREATION

Her distinct minimal designs have made a name in the fashion world and her attention to detail has

From an admiration for the earth as the center of

made her pieces, must-have luxury items.

creation, GEA was born, a collection created by world famous Magerit Joyas.

133

Fabergé, the world’s most iconic artist, introduces us

MAHARAJAS

FROM THE GREAT MUGHALS TO THE

FABERGÉ | #SAYYESINCOLOR a colorful new engagement collection.

Together we discover the exceptional exhibition of the unique Al Thani Collection in Paris.

Jewellery Historian www . jewelleryhistorian . com info @ jewelleryhistorian . com

COVER | Chaletgirl / Shutterstock. com

All material published in the digital and printed versions of the Jewellery Historian magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of the magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and brands, neither the publishers, editors, columnists, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” name and/or logo, may not be reproduced in any possible way without prior written consent of the founder of magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited. The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission. All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Jewellery Historian are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian web pages & magazine is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/logos/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or digital and print magazine belong to their owners. All third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned are trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. The full Terms & Conditions are available online at the website of the Jewellery Historian.

145

DAVID MORRIS: A COLORFUL HISTORY

225

For over five decades, royalty and international

French is an amazing language and together we

collectors compose the clientele of the world famous

discover exceptional books in the language of

British jewellery brand David Morris.

Voltaire.

183

BULGARI: TWIST YOUR TIME

227

A symbol of eternal regeneration, the snake,

With this fashion editorial we invite you to discover

constantly sheds its skin and takes on another, like the

the beauty of movement and freedom.

MILLEFEUILLES

IN THE FLOW OF THE RIVER

unique SERPENTI.

205

FASHION: NOIR & BLANC

237

An exceptional men fashion shooting that shows us

Spring is the rebirth of nature. This fashion editorial

that everything in life is not always black or white.

invites you to discover this new natural dress full of

FLORAL BLOCK

flowers and colors.

213

245

JEWELS WE LOVE

ADDRESS BOOK

We handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose,

Each issue features unique artists and here you can

enabling you to add a sophisticated and elegant

find how to learn more about them.

touch to the most important moments of your life.

Photo courtesy of LUCAS SAMALTANOS-FERRIER Â© LUCAS SAMALTANOS-FERRIER

Jewellery Historian

| EDITOR’S LETTER

This new issue of the Jewellery Historian marks an

wearing jewelry always remained the same, they enabled us

important moment for us all at the Jewellery Historian. It

all to express ourselves. With a unique versatility through

marks a new beginning, new collaborations, new

ages, jewellery become not only an expression of

partnerships, a new visual identity, new people in our team.

self-definition and of refinement, but also a driving force for

After a quite long period we decided to give to the entire

many fashion and cultural changes. Jewellery allow us to

magazine an important relooking. This need was born from

capture personal and treasured moments, to remember

our and desire to look like nobody else.

special milestones, to celebrate important moments of our

With a passion for knowledge and

lives, to never forget a moment of

c r i t i c a l i n q u i r y, w h i l e

our journey with a timeless

searching new and innovative ways of delivering information that can resonate long after publication, combined to a uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling, since the launch of the Jewellery Historian with my great team we are constantly searching new ways to showcase the most exceptional

FACES OF DE S IGN

and exquisite designers from all over the world. Recently we decided to offer to

keepsake we can wear. Jewelry is a heirloom that remind us where we came from, of people who might not be with us any longer. Jewellery is our link to our own past. In each of our issues, we invite our precious readers to discover this versatility and the intellectual playfulness most designers

by Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

our readers new experiences, such

G.G (GIA)

exhibit. With every issue we invite our readers, in every continent of our world, to explore the stories of

as the possibility to order a limited edition print of our

passionate people and the motivations behind their

magazine. With beautiful typography, each issue is a design

inspirational lifestyles, and the creative universe of the

object, which celebrates the pure pleasure of reading and

exceptional artists we handpick to be featured in our

the calming luxury of being offline. For this reason it was

magazine.

important for us, at this point, to rethink the entire design,

There was nothing easy to make all those changes and I

since we wanted all amazing creations made by our

would like to personally each one that participated into this

precious and prestigious partners to be wrapped up in

change for their efforts and accomplishments, because

beautiful words, illustration and photography, and collected

without their support and volunteer work this magazine

into a beautifully designed print artifact. We focus on

would not exist. Creativity is the act of turning new and

aesthetics and to the creativity of the designers we choose

imaginative ideas into reality, the ability to transcend

to showcase, by letting their creations to speak for

traditional ideas, rules, patterns, relationships, or the like,

themselves, rather that surrounding them with distractions

and to create meaningful new ideas. With this issue, the

and other imagery.

Jewellery Historian leaves the past behind, and let instinct

The Jewellery Historian has a strong focus on design and

and creativity be our guide.

craftsmanship, thereby promoting artists who aren't

The Jewellery Historian is a collective collaboration, a

necessarily part of the latest trend, but whose body of work

platform that allows all artists to share with readers around

shows an affinity for quality and taste over a longer period

the globe their creativity, their passion, their ideas and their

of time. The main goal of our publication is to be a

imagination. Our main mission since our launch is to

celebration of innovation and creativity, a publication that

educate, inspire and to promote known and unknow

will inspire our readers around the world, a publication

jewellery & timepieces designers, the expertise and vision

about the talented artists we choose to feature. We

of famous international maisons and talented young

showcase artists whose work is exceptional and of the

designers with the goal of raising the awareness of jewellery

highest quality. Each issue invites you to explore known and

& watch design as a form of creative expression.

unknown artists through their exceptional creations. Their

Our entire philosophy can be summed up in three verbs:

creations speak and we invite you to try to “listen” to them.

create, connect, inspire. Our new design in three words:

They will tell you secrets that are almost invisible.

Balance, Challenge, Purity. After all, luxury is not an industry,

Jewels have always been part of our human culture, and

but a language, a universal one.

despite changes in history of mankind, the purpose of

Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE Â© KGK ENTICE

Design & Creativity

KGK ENTICE UNFOLDS MASTERPIECES AT

BASELWORLD B Y P R E E TA A G A R W A L

For the 12th year in a row, Entice (Hong Kong), the fine

About Entice Jewellery:

jewellery brand by the era old KGK group, participated in the Baselworld 2017 with an exclusive booth.

Taking the rich Indian jewellery heritage and enhancing it

with a contemporary twist, Entice Jewellery offers a classical

ENTICE long known for their light weight and fabric like

yet contemporary style; boasting an elegant rich look.

flexibility in jewellery, previewed a brand new assortment of

'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of

its masterworks from its latest collections. With yellow

millennium in 2004 in Hong Kong. Following a huge success

diamonds being the highpoint of this floral theme collection,

with boutiques in Hong Kong & China and with an

the range displays some spectacular high definition

impression that India is now modern by design, KGK

necklaces crafted with stunning yellow diamonds and

launched its first boutique of ‘Entice’ in Jaipur in 2009. Entice

earrings forged with beautiful fusion of pear and oval shapes.

today has 5 standalone boutiques in countries including

The majestic range also includes some extraordinary designs

Hong Kong and India (Bengaluru, Jaipur, Mumbai and New

of long floral asymmetrical diamond necklaces studded with

Delhi).

18.95 carat pear shaped emerald; and an exclusive array of

Entice designs meet the mounting demand for an

chandelier earrings embossed in the mystique of fancy

internationally aesthetic look, lending a unique artistic blend

shaped diamonds. Several assortments of cocktail ring

to their pieces. Associated by the strength of KGK, Entice

engulfed with the gemstones like emeralds, blue sapphires

aims to create an unparalleled position of credible leadership

and Rose cut diamonds were also eminently featured.

by providing unmatched customer delight and exceeding

Coming straight from the heart of its Creative Director, Mrs.

customer expectations at every opportunity with its precious

Manju Kothari, “The pieces once again are the sole creation

gems and jewellery.

of our expert team of International craftsmen at Entice’s state-of-the-art - manufacturing unit in Hong Kong and an

About Parent Group KGK:

upshot of their hard work. Each piece is engrossed with modern fancy shaped diamonds and old ones like rose cuts

The KGK group, established in 1905 by Kothari family of

along with emeralds and blue sapphires making it a luxury in

Jaipur, is a global corporation with fully integrated

disguise for the jewellery lovers. The uniqueness of Entice

operations in the Gems & Jewellery industry, with presence

Jewellery lies in its unmatched elegance and chic flair, which

across 17 countries. A pioneer in the world of precious

is synonymous with brand’s vow to create the best.”

stones, KGK Group has been sourcing, manufacturing and

Present at the Baselworld 2017, Mr. Sanjay Kothari, Vice

distributing diamonds, colored stones and jewellery for

Chairman - KGK Group of Companies said, “It’s a

decades. The status of De Beers Sightholder, Alrosa Alliance

tremendous honor to unveil our greatest works of art in

and Rio Tinto Select Diamantaire speaks volumes about the

Baselworld, the biggest jewellery fiesta in the world. We have

credibility and efficiency of our diamond operations ensuring

been a part of this grand fete over a decade now yet it feels

nothing but the finest diamonds and at the most reasonable

an aura of freshness each time we showcase the finest and

prices. The strength of KGK is vast, resulting in unmatchable

lavish adornments out of the Entice’s canister of excellence.”

benefits to the end consumer.

The Jewellery displayed is now available at Entice Hong Kong exclusively and would come to India later this year.

| Design & Creativity

Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE Â© KGK ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| Design & Creativity

Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE Â© KGK ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| Design & Creativity

Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE Â© KGK ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| Design & Creativity

Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE Â© KGK ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| Design & Creativity

Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE Â© KGK ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

| Design & Creativity

Photo courtesy of KGK ENTICE Â© KGK ENTICE

Jewellery Historian

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Precious

Auction

The “Pink Star” sells for HK$553 Million / US$71.2 million to Hong Kong jeweller Chow Tai Fook and is renamed “The CTF Pink” On April 4th, 2017 in Hong Kong, Sotheby’s set a new world

Sotheby's in auctioning The Pink Star and congratulates its

auction record for any diamond or jewel when the Pink Star, a

new owner on purchasing one of Earth's most magnificent

59.60-carat oval mixed-cut Fancy Vivid Pink Internally

natural treasures. We are grateful to Sotheby's for their

Flawless diamond, sold for HK$553 million / US$71.2 million.

stewardship as we continue our tradition of providing

The Pink Star was acquired by renowned jeweller Chow Tai

extraordinary gems to the world's most distinguished

Fook, with the winning telephone bid placed by Dr. Henry

clientele.”

Cheng Kar-Shun, Chairman of the company. The Pink Star has been renamed the CTF Pink in memory of the late Dr. Cheng

The Pink Star (renamed the CTF Pink), a 59.60-carat oval

Yu-Tung, father of the current chairman and founder of Chow

mixed-cut pink diamond, is the largest Internally Flawless

Tai Fook, and commemorates the esteemed brand’s 88th

Fancy Vivid Pink diamond that the Gemological Institute of

anniversary.

America (GIA) has ever graded. It has received the highest colour and clarity grades from the GIA for pink diamonds and

"It is fitting that the owner of the most prestigious jeweller in

has been found to be part of the rare subgroup comprising

Greater China should today break the record for the most

less than 2% of all gem diamonds - known as Type IIa: stones

valuable item ever sold in Asia as well as the most valuable

in this group are chemically the purest of all diamond crystals

diamond ever sold at auction - now appropriately named the

and often have extraordinary optical transparency. Mined by

CTF Pink - said Sotheby's President and CEO Tad Smith,

De Beers in Africa in 1999, the 132.5- carat rough diamond

adding, "And Sotheby's has been honoured and thrilled to

was meticulously cut and polished over a period of two years

serve this very discerning client for many years."

and transformed into this stunning gemstone.

David Bennett, Worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s Jewellery Division, added: “I am delighted that this magnificently beautiful diamond has been rightfully crowned the most valuable gemstone ever sold at auction. The price has more than doubled the record for a fancy vivid pink diamond that we set just last year in Geneva.” The CTF Pink joins a number of outstanding stones in the collection of Chow Tai Fook including the Aurora Green, a 5.03-carat vivid green diamond acquired in 2016 for HK$130 million / US$16.8 million, an auction record for a green diamond, and the Cullinan Heritage, an exceptionally rare 507-carat rough diamond acquired for HK$275 million / US$35.3 million in 2010 that was cut and polished over three years to create “A Heritage in Bloom”, a unique masterpiece of diamond jewellery. Mellen Inc., Sotheby's partner in The Pink Star, said, “Mellen is privileged to have had the opportunity to partner with

New Generation

The winners of the fourth edition of

Photo courtesy of ARTISTAR Â© ARTISTAR

Artistar Jewels 2017

B Y C H R I S T I N A R O D O P O U LO U

Jewellery Historian

| New Generation

On February 24th at Giureconsulti Palace in Milan the

potronage of Comune di Milano. At the event there was also

winners of the fourth edition of Artistar Jewels have been

the young Italian stylist Erasmo Fiorentino who dressed the

announced. Artistar Jewels is the contest aimed at the

model Camilla Poggi with one of his dress, adorned with a

spread of the contemporary jewels culture which ended on

jewel created exclusively for the event by De Liguoro brand.

February 26th. The Artistar Jewels 2017’s winners are the

The dress inspired by the goddess Minerva descended to

Russian designer Evgeniia Balashova, the Italian artist

earth to separate the good from the bad, the perfect

Emanuele Leonardi and the Icelandic designer Anna Maria

combination of sinuous shapes like the parure made by

Pitt.

maison De Liguoro.

Emanuele Leonardi, one of the most voted from the general

The jury who selected and awarded the best artists from a

public and winner of the previous edition of Artistar, in this

technique, sperimentation, originality and research poin of

edition he persuaded the expert jury too with his neckpiece

views was represented by Elisabetta Barracchia – Editor of

made of bronze, wood and leather, Valutazione del Rischio,

Vogue Accessory and Creative Director of the Fashion

that shows the man’s will of catching the desired object

Department of Vanity Fair – Maristella Campi – fashion

which can, sometimes, “break” if all the risks haven’t been

journalist – Bianca Cappello – historian and critic of jewelry –

well evaluated. With ArtisticaLmente, Leonardi, art mentor

Gianni De Liguoro – founder and stylis of the De Liguoro

born and raised in Rome, has been continuing for about 2

brand and also protagonist of a special exhibition in a special

year the concept of the narrative jewel-sculpture. Anna Maria

area – Guido Solari – founder and owner of the Scuola orafa

Pitt has been awarded for her Backbone piece made of silver

Ambrosiana of Milan via Savona, 20 – Liza Urla – one of the

and inspired by the spinal bones of the wild reindeers. The

top jewelry blogger and founder of GEMOLOGUE..

designer, born in Iceland, moved in the United Kingdom

Gillo Dorfles for San Lorenzo, GianCarlo Montebello and

where she graduated with the highest score at the New

Philip Sajet’s creations have been hosted for the whole

Bucks University. She creates jewels using the technique of

duration of the exhibition.

the cold connection creating geomitric pieces inspired by

All the works have been published on the Artistar Jeweks

nature. Awarded the Russian designer Evgeniia Balashova

2017 volume. The introductive texts has been written by

too. Graduated in Scotland at the School of art in Glasgow,

Eugenia Gadaleta, contemporary jewelry expert and

she presented for Artistar the creation Buffer Bangle, which is

Marketing & Communication Manager of Artistar and Selene

a combination of flowing organic shapes and a strict

Oliva – Fashion and jewel’s freelance journalist. Edited by the

geometric frame. This juxtaposition of opposites shows

publishing house Logo Fausto Lupetti and available

organized chaos – typical environment of an office space.

nationally and internationally: sold in all the Italian libraries, in

The organic elements of the piece are created from

all the major European capitals and shipped to more than

computer keyboard hinges which were recycled and cast in

5000 experts of the sector.

Sterling Silver. Evgeniia Balashova, selected by Guido Solari,

A small selection of the works will be hosted by prestigious

also won the free participation to the Professional

galleries: Spazio Espositivo Adiacenze of Amerigo Mariotti

Goldsmithing course, offered by the Scuola Orafa

and Daniela Tozzi in Bologna 1-15 June, Creativity Oggetti of

Ambrosiana, Via Savona, 20.

Susanna Maffini in Torino 11-31 May and the Concept Store

A special mention went to the Chrysaora Alba piece, to the

Tiberius in Vienna in September.

fashion and textile designer born in the Czech Republic and

All of the creations are also purchasable until next week on

based in Berlin, Alena Willroth, designer and creator of

the e-commerce artistarjewels.com

handcrafted jewels made of soft filigree in polyethylene. Her

“We are very happy of the event’s succes – said Enzo

works are also rip resistant and created with a technique that

Carbone, founder of Artistar – the positive feedback from the

make it possible to create very light ornaments, with high

designers who came to Milan for this even, from abroad too,

visual impact and rarely reproducible.

and the enthusiasm of the guests and visitors make us really

Finally, the Egyptian artist Reem Jano has been selected by

proud. We are already thinking about the next edition,

the founder and jury members Giovanni De Liguoro to

determined to work hard to give the audience a great event,

collaborate in the personalization of one piece of the maison

always of high level”.

that will go into production.

Artistar Jewels is the event founded in 2012 by the designer

142 are the international designer from more than 30

Enzo Carbone and it’s now a landmark for the contemporary

countries who participated with over 350 creations in this

jewelry sector.

fourth edition, most of them never seen before. For the first

famous artists and as a springboard for the emerging

time the event took place in the prestigious Giureconsulti

designers. The participants shows their works, unique pieces

Palace in Milan during the February Fashion Week with the

or small series, selected for the high artistic value, for the

It serves as an international showcase for

Jewellery Historian

| New Generation

technical sperimentation and the stylistic research. Highly

communicate your creativity and sell your creations. Who visits the website can admire the exhibited jewels, learn the project philosophy behind them and get in touch with the artists. This reality also periodically spreads news about contests, free workshops, events and commercial partnerships. All the participants to the contest are included in the famous volume published by Logo Fausto Lupetti Editore; a book distributed both in Italy and in the European capitals. Artistar Jewels is a large-scale projects directed aimed at showing the pluralism of the contemporary jewel in all it endless variety. Artistar Jewels enhance the contemporary culture of the jewel, able to convey, in each edition, an heritage of beauty and knowledge that leaves the mark.

evocative body ornaments, very different for the materials and the techniques but linked by the fil rouge of the narration of a story, always present in each creation. Artistar Jewels is a project born with the aim of spreading the culture of contemporary jewelry and designed to anticipate the market trends, one of the first italian realities which has exploited all the potentiality of the web to implement the commercialization of contemporary jewelry. PIECES SELECTED FOR THE TOURING EXHIBITION: Algares di Alba Gallizia_MORGANA, Alina Simion_Dark shades of silence, Ana Hagopian_Feathers (Plumas), Arianna Celentano _SECULAR TIME, ArteFatto_Punti di vista, Aurum by GudbjĂśrg_TUTTU, B_Dodi design_NEFERTITI NECKLACE, Chevalley Cedric_ups8 bracelet, Fior Morris_Gridlock Shadow Choker , IngranArt by Simona Della Bella_Contrasto, IngranArt by Simona Della Bella_REWIND, Jenny Lawlor_Galaxy, Ji Young

Photo courtesy of ARTISTAR ÂŠ ARTISTAR

di Loto_Contact, Harriet

Kim_Lull of Breeze, Manuale J e w e l r y _ V E N U S TA NECKALCE, M e t a l To r k s _ M a a y a n Yablochnik_Gold-Silver star necklace, midzo_untitled bracelet, Orietta #artistarjewels2017 ARTISTAR JEWELS PROFILE: Artistar Jewels is the annual event promoting the contemporary jewel. It serves as an international showcase for famous artists and as a springboard for the emerging designers. Artistar Jewels was founded in 2012 in Milan by the designer Enzo Carbone. By the years the event developed and now it has more than 100 designers participating to each edition. Artistar group, made of artists, architects, journalists and communication professionals, aims at being a benchmark in the contemporary jewelry scenario by promoting designers and artists both in Italy and in the rest of the world through several initiatives. The shop on line www.artistarjewels.com is a virtual window by which easily and simultaneously

| New Generation

Photo courtesy of ARTISTAR Â© ARTISTAR

Jewellery Historian

| New Generation

Photo courtesy of ARTISTAR Â© ARTISTAR

Jewellery Historian

| New Generation

Photo courtesy of ARTISTAR Â© ARTISTAR

Jewellery Historian

EXCEPTIONNAL AUCTION

SOTHEBY’S MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND NOBLE JEWELS G E N E VA , 1 6 M a y 2 0 1 7

‘THE APOLLO & ARTEMIS DIAMONDS’ THE MOST VALUABLE EARRINGS EVER TO APPEAR AT AUCTION

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Jewellery Historian

‘THE APOLLO BLUE’

‘THE ARTEMIS PINK’

Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond weighing 14.54 carats Internally Flawless, Type IIb

Fancy Intense Pink Diamond weighing 16.00 carats VVS2 clarity, Type IIa

Estimate $ 38 – 50 million (CHF 38.1 – 50.2 million)

Estimate: $ 12.5 – 18 million (CHF 12.5 – 18.1 million)

Jewellery Historian

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

Sotheby’s spring sale of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels at Mandarin Oriental,

Speaking ahead of the sale, David Bennett, Worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division, said, “The Apollo and Artemis Diamonds’ will be the stars of our May sale in Geneva – by far the most important pair of earrings ever offered at auction.”

Geneva will be led by the ‘Apollo and Artemis Diamonds’. Individually, these captivating diamonds – one Fancy Vivid Blue, one Fancy Intense Pink – are truly exceptional stones and when considered as a pair, they enter a class of their own: the most important earrings ever to appear at auction. Offered separately as individual lots, ‘The Apollo Blue’ will be presented with an estimate of $38 – 50 million (CHF 38.1 – 50.2m) and ‘The Artemis Pink’ is estimated between $12.5 – 18 million (CHF 12.5 – 18.1m). Speaking ahead of the sale, David Bennett, Worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division, said, “’The Apollo and Artemis Diamonds’ will be the stars of our May sale in Geneva – by far the most important pair of earrings ever offered at auction. These exquisite coloured diamonds are enormously rare and each is a wonderful stone in its own right. Together, as a pair of earrings, they are breathtaking. We have named them after Apollo and Artemis, a twin brother and sister of great power and beauty who were among the most widely venerated of the Ancient Greek deities. These are diamonds of great distinction, with extraordinary presence, and we are honoured that Sotheby’s has been chosen to bring them to auction in May.” THE APOLLO BLUE Graded Fancy Vivid Blue by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and weighing an impressive 14.54 carats, the ‘Apollo Blue’ is the largest Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid Blue diamond ever to be offered at auction. It has been cut and polished into a beautiful unmodified pear-shape which flatters its exquisite and truly outstanding colour. The GIA has also determined that the ‘Apollo Blue’ is a Type IIb diamond – a group which contains less than one half of one per cent of all diamonds. The stone has had an auspicious start to its world tour, having already received many accolades on its exhibition in Hong Kong. In recent times, the only mine to produce blue diamonds with any regularity is the Cullinan mine in South Africa. When in full production, less than 0.1% of diamonds sourced showed any evidence of blue colour, according to the GIA. An infinitesimally small percentage of those is graded Fancy Vivid Blue. The ‘Apollo Blue’ will be offered as a single lot on 16 May with an estimate of $38 – 50 million (CHF38.1 – 50.2m). THE ARTEMIS PINK The ‘Artemis Pink’ stands as an exquisite and rare treasure in its own right, displaying an elegant and delicate Fancy Intense Pink hue. Weighing 16 carats, the stone has been carefully cut into a captivating pear shape, matching the Apollo Blue, which perfectly showcases the stone’s colour and clarity. The GIA has declared the ‘Artemis Pink’ to be a ‘Type IIa’ diamond, describing this category as ‘the most chemically pure type’ of diamonds, which ‘often have exceptional optical transparency’. The occurrence of pink diamonds remains exceedingly rare: according to the GIA, of all diamonds submitted to their specialists each year, ‘no more than 3% are classified as coloured diamonds; less than 5% of those coloured diamonds are predominantly pink’. Thus, a Fancy Intense Pink stone of such rich colour and impressive size can only be described as phenomenally rare.

Jewellery Historian

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

The ‘Artemis Pink’ will be offered as a single lot on 16 May with an estimate of $12.5 – 18

Offered separately as individual lots, ‘The Apollo Blue’ will be presented with an estimate of $38 – 50 million (CHF 38.1 – 50.2m) and ‘The Artemis Pink’ is estimated between $12.5 – 18 million (CHF 12.5 – 18.1m).

million (CHF12.5 – 18.1m). THE MYTH OF APOLLO AND ARTEMIS In Greek mythology, Leto (Latona in Latin), daughter of the Titans Coeus and Phoebe, had a liaison with Zeus and became pregnant with twins. When Hera, wife of Zeus, discovered this, she forbade Leto from giving birth on terra firma, the mainland, any island or any place under the sun. Leto eventually found the barren floating island of Asterios, later named Delos, which was neither mainland nor a real island, and gave birth there, promising the island wealth from the worshippers who would flock to the obscure birthplace of the splendid god who was to come. Leto gave birth to Artemis, the elder twin, without difficulty, but she laboured for nine nights and nine days with Apollo, according to Homer. In Greek and Roman mythology, diamonds were believed to be the tears of the gods. Artemis, Diana for the Romans, became one of the most venerated of the Ancient Greek deities. She was the goddess of the hunt, wild animals, wilderness, childbirth, virginity and protector of young girls. Also referred to as the goddess of the moon, she was often depicted as a huntress carrying a bow and arrow, and deer and cypress were sacred to her. Apollo is one of the most important of the Olympian deities in classical Greek and Roman mythology. The ideal of the kouros, he has been recognised as the god of music, truth and prophecy, healing, the sun and light, and poetry. In Hellenistic times, as Apollo Helios, he became identified among Greeks with Helios, Titan god of the sun, and his sister Artemis similarly equated with Selene, Titan goddess of the moon. SOTHEBY’S Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art since 1744. Sotheby’s became the first international auction house when it expanded from London to New York (1955), the first to conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India (1992) and France (2001), and the first international fine art auction house in China (2012). Today, Sotheby’s presents auctions in 10 different salesrooms, including New York, London, Hong Kong and Paris, and Sotheby’s BidNow program allows visitors to view all auctions live online and place bids from anywhere in the world. Sotheby’s offers collectors the resources of Sotheby’s Financial Services, the world’s only full-service art financing company, as well as the collection advisory services of its subsidiary, Art Agency, Partners. Sotheby’s presents private sale opportunities in more than 70 categories, including S|2, the gallery arm of Sotheby's Global Fine Art Division, and two retail businesses, Sotheby’s Diamonds and Sotheby’s Wine. Sotheby’s has a global network of 80 offices in 40 countries and is the oldest company listed on the New York Stock Exchange (BID). Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels 16 May 2017 MANDARIN ORIENTAL, GENEVA

Mathon THE NEW COLLECTION ONDINE IS BORN

For spring season 2017, the new collection Ondine is born, attributing to the timeless pieces Les Intemporelles by MATHON PARIS. Inspired by the natural form of water and the mythology story, the collection Ondine is endowed with a spirit of simpleness and modernism. The name “Ondine” derives from the word "wave". In the western mythology, Ondine were the nymphs living in the water, representing the beauty and the living force of the Nature. The collection is available in white gold, yellow gold and rose gold, and diamond pavé as well. A serie of gold rings is decorated with lacquer of colors from the spring - orange, red, blue and green. Discreet, elegant, the Ondine rings can be worn as single or combined together, as stack rings, to create a unique look.

Photo courtesy of MATHON PARIS © MATHON PARIS

For more information. visit www.mathon-paris.com

Photo courtesy of MATHON PARIS Â© MATHON PARIS

EXCEPTIONNAL AUCTION

SOTHEBYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND NOBLE JEWELS NEW YORK, 25 May 2017

Magnificent Jewels including the

Legendary Stotesbury Emerald

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Jewellery Historian

THE MAGNIFICENT AND LEGENDARY STOTESBURY EMERALD Platinum, Emerald and Diamond Ring, Harry Winston Set with a hexagon-shaped emerald weighing approximately 34.40 carats, framed by pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 6.00 carats, size 5½, signed Winston.

Estimate 800,000 — 1,200,000 USD

Jewellery Historian

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

Sotheby’s annual spring auction of Magnificent Jewels in New York

The Hope Diamond

will be held on 25 April 2017. The sale features a wonderful array of historic designs of Louis Comfort Tiffany, JAR and Suzanne Belperron,

Only two years later, Pierre Cartier paid another visit to Mrs. McLean,

alongside jewels with exceptional provenance.

this time with an even more irresistible gemstone – the Hope Diamond. After a mounting was approved for the 45.52-carat Deep

The sale is distinguished further by signed and iconic jewels from

Blue diamond, Cartier and the McLeans agreed that the first payment

renowned design houses including Harry Winston, Cartier, Tiffany &

for the Hope Diamond would include $40,000 and the emerald and

Co. and Bulgari, as well as exceptional diamonds of every color.

pearl pendant which housed the Star of the East. The title of the Hope Diamond was officially transferred in 1912 after a bitter court battle

Distinguished Provenance

between Cartier and the McLeans, and the hexagon-shaped emerald now belonged to the design house.

A highlight of the spring season is the Magnificent and Legendary Stotesbury Emerald (estimate 800.000/1.2 million USD) whose

Mr. and Mrs. Edward T. Stotesbury

exceptional size, extraordinary shape and rich hue alone distinguishes it from the rest of its class. However, enclosed in this hexagon-shaped,

Eva Stotesbury was born in Chicago, her father a prominent lawyer

Colombian emerald weighting approximately 34.40 carats is an

who practiced in the same circuits as Abraham Lincoln. Her 1912

extensive history spanning the 20th century and including: three

wedding to Edward T. Stotesbury, known as J.P. Morgan’s right-hand

renowned American jewelry collectors -Evelyn Walsh McLean, Eva

man in Philadelphia, was covered by The New York Times; President

Stotesbury and May Bonfils Stanton- two renowned design houses, a

Taft was in attendance and toasted the newlyweds. Mr. and Mrs.

bitter court battle and, last but not least, The Hope Diamond. The

Stotesbury split their time between Whitemarsh Hall, their mansion in

whereabouts of this legendary emerald have been unknown since

Philadelphia and El Mirasol, their Palm Beach property. They were

1971, when it last appeared at auction at Sotheby’s. The stone’s history

known for their lavish parties as well as their widespread philanthropic

was rediscovered through careful research and scholarship.

efforts.

The Story Behind the Magnificent and Legendary Stotesbury

The Stotesbury Gems

Emerald Mrs. Stotesbury had an eye for jewellery, and when the newly married With its exceptional size, extraordinary shape and rich, vibrant hue,

couple travelled to London, word of her impressive gem collection

the Stotesbury Emerald would be an outstanding stone if considered

quickly spread. During the 1912 trip, The New York Times reported,

only for its superb gem quality. Enclosed in this unique stone,

“The Philadelphia banker’s wife loves jewels for their own sake and

however, is a history that includes two celebrated design houses and

can discuss the good and bad points of a gem with an expert’s

three incomparable women who shared an impeccable eye for

knowledge. All of her stones are of the finest water, and a number of

renowned jewels and gemstones. Each leading lady changed it meet

them, gathered at the coast of much time and trouble, are of

her specific taste, in concert with the most famed jewelers of all time.

incomparable beauty.” An avid entertainer, Mrs. Stotesbury was

The emerald’s fabled path illustrates the legend of a gem that

known for complaining about the headaches induced by her emerald

coincided with the heyday of jewellry collecting in the United States.

and diamond tiara by Cartier.

Click ahead to discover more than 100 years of the Stotesbury Emerald’s renowned history, as it awaits its next chapter.

The Stotesbury Emeralds

The McLean Years

Like many women did during the World Wars, Mrs. Stotesbury looked to Pierre Cartier to re-work her emerald and diamond tiara and add

The Stotesbury Emerald’s journey begins in 1908 in Washington, D.C.

more gems to create an entire suite. Comprising a tiara, necklace and

American mining heiress and socialite Evalyn Walsh McLean was a

pendant-earrings, the hexagon-shaped stone was the centerpiece of

client of Pierre Cartier, who helped Mrs. McLean amass one of the

the necklace. Mrs. Stotesbury was so fond of her emeralds that she

world’s most impressive collections of gemstones. In 1908 Cartier was

wore them in 1926 for her portrait completed by British artist Douglas

tasked with creating a bespoke jewel to showcase the Star of the East

Chandor. Parke-Bernet Galleries sold Mrs. Stotesbury’s much admired

diamond, a 94.80-carat pear-shaped diamond recently purchased by

pearls in an auction following her death in 1946.

Mrs. McLean. It was decided that the Star of the East was to be worn as a pendant, and Mrs. McLean wore it, on a chain below a hexagonal

The Stotesbury Emerald and Harry Winston

emerald of 34 carats and a pearl of 32 grains. Laurence Krashes states in his book Harry Winton: The Ultimate Jeweler that the Stotesbury Emerald and the suite it belonged to were

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Jewellery Historian

FORMERLY FROM THE COLLECTION OF QUEEN NARRIMAN OF EGYPT 18 Karat Gold, Citrine and Diamond Necklace and Bracelet, Sterlé, Paris The necklace and bracelet of stylized wreath form, the bracelet enhanced by a gold link tassel, set with numerous pear-shaped citrines and one heart-shaped citrine, accented by round and single-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 11.00 carats, necklace length 15 inches, unsigned, numbered 2444, with French assay marks, bracelet length 6¼ inches, signed Sterlé, Paris, numbered 2445, with French assay marks; circa 1950. Estimate 175,000 — 225,000

Jewellery Historian

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

sold to Harry Winston in 1943. In a practice that made him famous

Also highlighting the sale is a very Rare Fancy Vivid Green Diamond

during the jet-set years, Harry Winston refashioned the Stotesbury

ring (estimate 1/1.5 million USD). Aside from the color red, green is by

Emerald suite into a variety of more contemporary creations. The

far the scarcest body color found in fancy colored diamonds. Only a

Stotesbury emerald itself was mounted as a ring and sold to May

handful of natural green diamonds have been auctioned in the past

Bonfils Stanton.

30 years, this Fancy Vivid Green diamond, weighting 1.64 carats, which is uncommonly large for a green diamond, presents a unique

The Stotesbury Emerald at Auction

opportunity for collectors to acquire an exceptional gem.

Although it was not a part of the legendary single owner sale of May

The sale will offer several blue diamonds of various hues including an

Bonfils Stanton’s collection, the Stotesbury Emerald appeared in a

Exquisite Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Ring (estimate 700.000/1 million

1971 Parke-Bernet sale. Sold in its present mounting by Harry

USD), an Important Fancy Gray-Blue Diamond Ring (estimate

Winston, the ring was part of a various owner sale, but noted as being

750.000/1 million USD) and a Fancy Intense Blue Diamond and

from the Estate of May Bonfils Stanton. The Stotesbury Emerald has

Diamond Ring (estimate 200.000/300.000 USD). A Fancy Deep Yellow

remained with the same owners since the 1971 auction.

Diamond and Diamond Ring (estimate 150.000/200.000 USD) is also on offer.

Additionally, the sale will offer an Art Deco Sapphire and Diamond Brooch by Cartier (estimate 200.000/300.000 USD) formerly in the collection of Mrs. John E. Rovensky. Mrs. Rovensky, formerly Mrs.

SOTHEBY’S

Morton F. Plant, participated in one of the most iconic jewels transactions of all time when her first husband traded in his corner lot

Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art

on Fifth Avenue for two strands of natural pearls from Cartier in 1917.

since 1744. Sotheby’s became the first international auction house

Stationed on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 52nd Street, the lot

when it expanded from London to New York (1955), the first to

remains the New York home for the iconic brand.

conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India (1992) and France (2001), and the first international fine art auction house in China (2012). Today,

A Citrine and Diamond Necklace and Bracelet by Sterlé (estimate

Sotheby’s presents auctions in 10 different salesrooms, including New

175.000/225.000 USD) formerly from the collection of Queen Narriman

York, London, Hong Kong and Paris, and Sotheby’s BidNow program

of Egypt and three jewels by Cartier and Boucheron from the

allows visitors to view all auctions live online and place bids from

Collection of Frederica Vanderbilt Webb, an American heiress, are

anywhere in the world. Sotheby’s offers collectors the resources of

also amongst the many pieces in the sale with histories as glittering as

Sotheby’s Financial Services, the world’s only full-service art financing

the jewels themselves.

company, as well as the collection advisory services of its subsidiary, Art Agency, Partners. Sotheby’s presents private sale opportunities in

Illustrious Jewels by Louis Comfort Tiffany

more than 70 categories, including S|2, the gallery arm of Sotheby's Global Fine Art Division, and two retail businesses, Sotheby’s

A strong selection of Art Nouveau jewels is led by an important

Diamonds and Sotheby’s Wine. Sotheby’s has a global network of 80

private collection of jewels by Louis Comfort Tiffany, comprising 10

offices in 40 countries and is the oldest company listed on the New

pieces that are representative of designer’s unique and signature

York Stock Exchange (BID).

work. Tiffany strove to elevate jewelry to fine art. His use of naturalistic forms, intricate details and vibrantly colored gemstones allowed each

EXHIBITION TIMES | NEW YORK

piece to hold its own as a complete artistic statement. The vivid colors of the gemstones are delicately balanced allowing them to catch and

FRI, 21 APR 17 | 01:00 PM - 05:00 PM EDT

transform light in a way that is informed by his mastery of the stained

SAT, 22 APR 17 | 10:00 AM - 05:00 PM EDT

glass medium.

SUN, 23 APR 17 | 01:00 PM - 05:00 PM EDT MON, 24 APR 17 | 10:00 AM - 05:00 PM EDT

Magnificent Diamonds

TUE, 25 APR 17 | 10:00 AM - 12:00 PM EDT

The April sale offers an extensive selection of colorless and colored diamonds of every hue, led by an Extraordinary Pair of Diamond Earrings (estimate 4.5/5.5 million USD), set with two square emerald-cut diamonds both over 20 carats, D colors, Internally Flawless, Type IIa with excellent Polish and Symmetry.

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Jewellery Historian

Rare Platinum, Fancy Vivid Green Diamond and Diamond Ring Centering a cut-cornered square mixed-cut Fancy Vivid Green diamond weighing 1.64 carats, flanked by two cut-cornered triangle-shaped diamonds weighing approximately .65 carat, size 6¼. Estimate 1,000,000 — 1,500,000

ART

The METROPOLITAN MUSEUM

Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons

Art of the In-Between

Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Body Meets Dress–Dress Meets  Body, spring/summer 1997; Courtesy of Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Jewellery Historian

The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute

| ART

Exhibition Overview

spring 2017 exhibition, Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between, on view from May 4

The exhibition will feature approximately 150

through September 4, will examine Kawakubo’s

examples of Kawakubo’s womenswear designs for

fascination with interstitiality, or the space between

Comme des Garçons, dating from the early 1980s to her

boundaries. This in-between space is revealed in

most recent collection. Objects will be organized into

Kawakubo’s work as an aesthetic sensibility, establishing

eight dominant and recurring aesthetic expressions of

an unsettling zone of oscillating visual ambiguity that

interstitiality in Kawakubo’s work: Fashion/Anti-Fashion,

challenges conventional notions of beauty, good taste,

Design/Not Design, Model/Multiple, Then/Now,

and fashionability. Not a traditional retrospective, this

High/Low, Self/Other, Object/Subject, and Clothes/Not

thematic exhibition will be The Costume Institute’s first

Clothes. Kawakubo breaks down the imaginary walls

monographic show on a living designer since the Yves

between these dualisms, exposing their artificiality and

Saint Laurent exhibition in 1983.

arbitrariness. Her fashions demonstrate that interstices are places of meaningful connection and coexistence as

“In blurring the art/fashion divide, Kawakubo asks us

well as revolutionary innovation and transformation,

to think differently about clothing,” said Thomas P.

providing Kawakubo with endless possibilities to rethink

Campbell, Director of The Met. “Curator Andrew Bolton

the female body and feminine identity.

will explore work that often looks like sculpture in an exhibition that will challenge our ideas about fashion’s

Exhibition Credits

role in contemporary culture.” The exhibition will be curated by Andrew Bolton, In celebration of the opening, The Met's Costume

Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute, who will

Institute Benefit, also known as The Met Gala, will take

collaborate on the exhibition design with Rei Kawakubo.

place on Monday, May 1, 2017. The evening’s co-chairs

Lighting for the exhibition will be created by Thierry

will be Tom Brady, Gisele Bundchen, Katy Perry, Pharrell

Dreyfus @ Eyesight Group. Heads and wigs will be

Williams, and Anna Wintour.

Rei Kawakubo and

created and styled by Julien d’Ys. The design for the

Ambassador Caroline Kennedy will serve as Honorary

2017 Costume Institute Benefit will be created by Nathan

Chairs. The event is The Costume Institute’s main source

Crowley with Raul Avila, who has produced the Benefit

of annual funding for exhibitions, publications,

décor since 2007.

acquisitions, and capital improvements. Special thanks to Apple, Condé Nast, Farfetch, H&M, “Rei Kawakubo is one of the most important and

Maison Valentino, and Warner Bros. for their support of

influential designers of the past 40 years,” said Andrew

the exhibition and benefit.

Bolton, Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute. “By inviting us to rethink fashion as a site of constant

Related Content

creation, recreation, and hybridity, she has defined the aesthetics of our time.”

A publication, authored by Andrew Bolton and designed by Fabien Baron, will accompany the

Rei Kawakubo said, “I have always pursued a new way

exhibition. It will be published by The Metropolitan

of thinking about design...by denying established values,

Museum of Art and distributed by Yale University Press.

conventions, and what is generally accepted as the norm. And the modes of expression that have always been most important to me are fusion...imbalance... unfinished... elimination...and absence of intent.”

Jewellery Historian

| ART

Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Body Meets Dress–Dress Meets Body, spring/summer 1997; Courtesy of Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Jewellery Historian

| ART

Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Blue Witch, spring/summer 2016; Courtesy of Comme des Garçons.  Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Jewellery Historian

| ART

Jewellery Historian

| ART

Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969); Courtesy of Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Jewellery Historian

| ART

Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Blood and Roses, spring/summer 2015; Courtesy of Comme des Garçons.  Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA © CARRERA Y CARRERA

The art of creativity

OCÉANOS

A NEW COLLECTION BY CARRERA Y CARRERA B Y C H R I S T I N A R O D O P O U LO U

Jewellery Historian

| The art of creativity

The ocean waters contain countless mysteries yet to be discovered. Concealed below the surface is a secret world that mankind has striven tirelessly to uncover and master – the deep sea has always held an element of attraction for the human race. Carrera y Carrera, the most international Spanish fine jewelry firm, gives itself over to the fascination awakened by the sea and its wonders. Allowing itself to succumb to the ocean’s charms, the company has developed the new Océanos collection. The pieces that make up this collection are very much in line with the major fashion houses that have also surrendered to the charms aroused by the sea and the hidden universe it contains. Carrera y Carrera, flaunting its unlimited imagination and sources of inspiration, takes the oceans as a creative concept to develop its new collection and once again gives a master lesson in creating mini-sculptures of extreme detail and thoroughness. Creatures from the deep have been crafted in white and yellow gold with precious stones such as amethysts, blue and yellow sapphires, and black pearls. These last, of the highest quality and exquisite color, are embraced by the tentacles of an octopus, a protagonist of the jewelry firm’s latest creations. Seahorses, symbol of undying love, as well as sea stars, complete the zoomorphic diversity of these pieces. A festival of color, brilliance, and movement unique to the rolling of the tides that form the 7 oceans. The collection is comprised of rings, earrings, and necklaces that conceptualize the majesty of the sea according to Carrera y Carrera. Luxury, power, and beauty brought directly from the ocean depths. About Carrera y Carrera Carrera y Carrera is an international Spanish jewelry firm considered to be one of the most prestigious in the world. Present in over 40 countries, it has subsidiaries in the United States, Japan, and Russia, and boutiques in Madrid, Barcelona, Tokyo, Moscow, Dubai, Bangkok, Macau, and Kuala Lumpur, among others. This iconic brand is characterized by a unique style and meticulous designs where the combination of matte-gloss gold and work in volumes and sculpture transform these pieces into unique jewels where gold and precious stones come to life.

| The art of creativity

Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA © CARRERA Y CARRERA

Jewellery Historian

OCÉANOS MINI RING IN YELLOW GOLD, AMETHYST, OLIVINE AND DIAMONDS

| The art of creativity

Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA Â© CARRERA Y CARRERA

Jewellery Historian

PULPO MEDIUM EARRINGS UN YELLOW GOLD, BLACK PEARLS AND DIAMONDS

| The art of creativity

Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA Â© CARRERA Y CARRERA

Jewellery Historian

PULPO MAXI RING IN YELLOW AND WHITE GOLD, WHITE PEARLS, BLACK PEARL, BLUE SAPPHIRES, AMETHYSTS AND DIAMONDS

| The art of creativity

Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA Â© CARRERA Y CARRERA

Jewellery Historian

CORAL RING IN YELLOW AND ROSE GOLD, CRYSTAL ROCK, GARNETS, BLUE SAPPHIRES, ORANGE SAPPHIRES AND DIAMONDS

| The art of creativity

Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA Â© CARRERA Y CARRERA

Jewellery Historian

CORAL RING IN YELLOW AND ROSE GOLD, CRYSTAL ROCK, GARNETS, BLUE SAPPHIRES, ORANGE SAPPHIRES AND DIAMONDS

| The art of creativity

Photo courtesy of CARRERA Y CARRERA Â© CARRERA Y CARRERA

Jewellery Historian

PULPO MAXI EARRINGS IN YELLOW GOLD, BLACK PEARLS AND DIAMONDS

7 2

0 B Y C AT H E R I N E VA R O U C H A

Ever since the dawn of human race, jewelry managed to be a constant presence and a driving force of many fashion and cultural changes we experienced through millennia of mankind history. Discover with us, an exclusive preview of the upcoming new book of the Jewellery Historian. The facets of mankind invite us to explore the unique creativity of mankind through the centuries. Art is the absolute manifestation of human creativity and the author invites us to discover the amazing links between the art of jewelry and many other forms of art. A book with a strong focus on design and craftsmanship, a celebration of innovation and creativity, that will help us to explore the stories of passionate people and the motivations behind their inspirational lifestyles.

Jewellery Historian

The founder and editor-in-chief of the Jewellery Historian

gained by reading non-fiction books, that

allow us to

signs the first ever book to be soon released by the

learn real, factual information. Books can also give us

Jewellery Historian. The book focuses on the way jewelry

knowledge through the experience of reading. Many

managed to be a constant presence and a driving force of

people feel that when they read a book, especially works

many fashion and cultural changes we experienced

of fiction, they interact with "another world."

through millennia of mankind history. This book will also allow to the Jewellery Historian to The goal of this book is purely educational. It is a book

continue to offer a free digital version to readers

that we all at the Jewellery Historian want to be a

worldwide. The Jewellery Historian is a project created by

celebration of innovation and creativity, a publication

a team of volunteers with no financial support of any

about the unknown talented artists of the past and about

brand or from any other source and this book will allow us

the people that created exceptional jewellery and unique

to keep service readers around the globe. With more than

timepieces.

900.000 readers in more than 80 countries we feel that this project must continue. One of our main missions is to educate, inspire and to promote jewellery & timepieces

Jewels have always been part of our human culture, but

designers, the expertise and vision of famous

despite changes in history of mankind the purpose of

international maisons and talented designers with the

wearing jewelry always remained the same, they enabled

goal of raising the awareness of jewellery & watch design

wearer to express himself non-verbally, to showcase

as a form of creative expression.

wealth, rank, political and religious affiliation or affections toward someone.

The Jewellery Historian has a strong focus on design and craftsmanship, thereby promoting artists who aren't

This versatility through ages enabled jewelry to become

necessarily part of the latest trend, but whose body of

timeless and a target for constant development and

work shows an affinity for quality and taste over a longer

refinement. This is why we could say that ever since the

period of time. We showcase artists whose work is

dawn of human race, jewelry managed to be a constant

exceptional and of the highest quality. With each issue

presence and a driving force of many fashion and cultural

we invite our readers to explore the stories of passionate

changes we experienced trough millennia. With this first

people and the motivations behind their inspirational

book we wanted to show all this. We felt that by doing

lifestyles and we hope to succeed the same with this very

this we would invite readers to discover an amazing

first book.

universe. It is our invitation to all readers worldwide to explore the stories of passionate people and the

We felt that we had to wrap all those amazing creations of

motivations behind their inspirational lifestyles.

known and unknown artists of the past, all those exceptional works of the most talented jewellery

This book is also an invitation to visit and discover

designers, artists and decorative or religious art designers

exceptional jewellery and art collections in museums

and collect them into a beautifully designed print artifact.

around the globe. Jewelry is present in decorative art, in fashion, in painting, in almost everything.

At the Jewellery Historian, we believe that luxury is not only an industry, but mainly a language. Art is the

We hope that the readers of this book will also visit a local

absolute manifestation of human creativity and we invite

bookstore and buy a book about jewellery. Authors

you to discover the amazing links between the art of

around the world write exceptional books and we must all

jewelry and many other forms of art.

support their work. It is a way to guarantee that all this knowledge will be transmitted to future generations. Books transmit knowledge in at least two ways. First,

This first book will be exclusively available on the website

there is the literal or factual knowledge which can be

of the Jewellery Historian as a soft cover book.

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THE

MINIMAL spirit OF

DINNY HALL B Y C H R I S T I N A R O D O P O U LO U

Her distinct minimalistic designs have made a name in the fashion world and her attention to detail has made the pieces must-have luxury items for the modern woman.

A modern British jewellery brand with 30 year’s heritage, Dinny Hall is the creative force behind her eponymous line. Dinny came to prominence when her entire Central Saint Martin's College of Art and Design graduation collection was bought by luxury department store Liberty, London. A year later, in 1985, the brand was founded and was an instant success with its experimental pieces made from unique natural materials such as leather and wood. The subsequent years have seen Dinny Hall’s jewellery continue to adapt with trends while maintaining the same quality and flair that brought her success originally. She says of her work: "At first I played with scale, exoticism and fashion statement but as time went on the actual craft began to interest me more. I began paring down the forms to be simple but as perfect as I could make them. Jewellery is a very personal thing and should not take over the wearer but be part of them". From sketch to store, Dinny is personally involved in every one of her pieces. It’s this hands on approach that has made Dinny Hall a recognisable jewellery name around the world, synonymous with British style and quality. From concept to creation, Dinny celebrates the craft of jewellery-making. Her distinct designs have made the brand a name in the fashion world and her attention to detail has made the pieces must have luxury items for the modern woman. Her eclectic range of inspirations – from 20th-century furniture to the onion domes of a Russian orthodox church – inform her timeless, feminine and beautiful designs, which have garnered a loyal following worldwide. These clients appreciate not only the high quality of Dinny’s work, but also that it is eminently wearable and can be easily adapted to suit today’s highly varied day-to-night lifestyle Created by Dinny and her team in the Notting Hill studio in London, Dinny is famous for her imaginative use of luxury Sterling Silver, 22k Gold Vermeil, 14k, and 18ct gold and many coloured gemstones. Dinny Hall jewelry is skillfully crafted to maximize comfort and style. Dinny and her team oversee the entire production process of the pieces, from hand-drawing the designs to creating wax models used to make the jewellery masters, to hand selecting every gemstone. The pieces are created using the tools and techniques that craftsmen have used for centuries along with some of the latest computer technology to make original masters that are then formed into finished pieces by master goldsmiths trained by Dinny herself. From sketch to store, Dinny is personally involved in every one of her pieces. It's this hands on approach that has made Dinny Hall a recognisable jewellery name around the world, synonymous with British style and quality. Dinny uses only genuine gemstones carefully chosen from responsible sources who we trust together with the highest quality solid sterling silver, 14k and 18k gold. Dinny believes in crafting and engineering those metals and in this respect is a genuine artisan. Every aspect of a piece is taken into consideration, with particular attention paid to how the jewellery will feel and sit on the wearer.

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The art of creativity

FA B E R G É ENGAGEMENT COLLECTION

#SAYYESINCOLOUR B Y C AT H E R I N E VA R O U C H A

Fabergé is the world’s most iconic artist jewellery, inspired by its storied past and the current moment, to create eternally original pieces that, when worn, convey breath-taking individuality. Fabergé jewellery creations are made for a discerning clientele seeking the unexpected. In Fabergé’s new engagement ring collections, emeralds, rubies and sapphires -the legendary gemstone trinity - take the place of diamonds and create a colourful renaissance of this age-old commitment to enduring love.

| The art of creativity

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Jewellery Historian

| The art of creativity

FABERGÉ is the world’s most iconic artist jewellery, inspired by its storied past and the current moment, to create eternally original pieces that, when worn, convey breath-taking individuality. Fabergé jewellery creations are made for a discerning clientele seeking the unexpected. In painting with the world’s finest coloured gemstones, Fabergé explores “the art of colour”, making pieces to be collected as future heirlooms. Through enduring originality the finest workmanship and artistry, Fabergé jewels act as timeless reflections of universal themes of nature, rebirth and love. Fabergé designs for the contemporary woman whose style is a timeless expression of her individual taste. In Fabergé’s new engagement ring collections, emeralds, rubies and sapphires -the legendary gemstone trinity - take the place of diamonds and create a colourful renaissance of this age-old commitment to enduring love. Fabergé’s #sayyesincolour film depicts the emotional response sparked by three different engagement proposals, each corresponding with one of the three gemstones. The film explores the spirituality and intuition of emeralds, the passion and devotion of rubies, and the sincerity and faithfulness of sapphires, allowing each couple to reflect the unique emotional significance of their journey and their bond. Fabergé’s illustrious heritage is saluted by the incorporation into each ring of the venerated gold-fluting technique, a quintessential Faberg’e effect providing a highly distinctive and contemporary finish. In keeping with its fondness for delight, surprise and discovery, Fabergé’s engagement and wedding rings conceal, on the inside of each band, an additional gem of matching colour which remains in direct contact with the wearer, ensuring an unbroken bond between partners. Every couple is unique and no two engagement stories are alike. Similarly, no two coloured gemstones are alike, with each gem safeguarding its own story. Share your engagement story and #sayyesincolour.

| The art of creativity

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Jewellery Historian

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Jewellery Historian

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Jewellery Historian

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Jewellery Historian

Haute Joaillerie

50 years in style

The storied past of Italy's preeminent high-jeweller, Picchiotti, unfolds nearly half a century ago in Valenza, an ancient Italian village known for jewellery-making, when founder Giuseppe Picchiotti opened the doors of his atelier. Today he’s known the world over as the premier jeweller of Italy. The Valenza atelier produces masterful miniature works of art with élan for its appreciative fans. Picchiotti’s sophisticated collection is created entirely in-house, assuring excellence in the execution and complete quality control, while Picchiotti carves out time to scour the globe in search of rare stones befitting his elite brand.

Logo courtesy of PICCHIOTTI. Used with permission. © PICCHIOTTI

B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

Photo courtesy of PICCHIOTTI Â© PICCHIOTTI

The storied past of Italy’s preeminent high-jeweler,

industry through several awards, including the Basel

Picchiotti, unfolds nearly half a century ago in Valenza, an

Award, Couture Design Award, and the Platinum Guild

ancient Italian village known for jewelry-making, when

Best of Show Design Award.

founder Giuseppe Picchiotti opened the doors of his

A certificate of authenticity accompanies every master

atelier. From an early age, Picchiotti had a clear vision for

craftsman’s work from the Picchiotti atelier. Every piece in

creating Fine Jewelry, and today he is known the world

the exclusive collection is stamped with the “Picchiotti”

over as the premier jeweler of Italy.

signature mark, the purchaser’s assurance that the piece is

The legendary family enterprise is precision-run by

a genuine Picchiotti design. Each creation is as unique as

Picchiotti and seven family members, a charismatic,

its wearer, reflecting Picchiotti’s legendary quality, beauty

multi-generational group that creates one-of-a-kind

and style.

pieces and oversees all aspects of the business. The Picchiotti story is a special one – uniting thrilling, unique

An Artist’s Style is His Signature

Fine Jewelry designs with their extraordinary creators: the family Picchiotti.

Giuseppe Picchiotti’s romance with diamonds and

The Picchiotti atelier in Valenza produces masterful

precious stones has been guiding him for five decades to

miniature works of art with élan for its legions of

pursue the artistic expression that distinguishes Picchiotti

appreciative fans. Picchiotti’s sophisticated collection is

from other Fine Jewelry brands. With his passionate

created entirely in- house, assuring excellence of

commitment to exclusivity, the resulting collections are of

execution and complete quality control from start to

exquisite beauty and artistry, true masterpieces that will

finish.

be talked about and treasured for years to come.

Picchiotti painstakingly oversees every aspect of the

The Picchiotti Collections are conceived with a focus

creative process, but he also carves out time to scour the

on colored gemstones, and a quintessentially Italian,

globe in search of rare stones befitting his elite brand.

dynamic and innovative design and sensibility expressing

These forays uncover magnificent gems that often inspire

unsurpassed creativity and exquisite craftsmanship. The

new signature pieces.

shapes are soft, sinuous, and very feminine.

Picchiotti’s designs are traditionally inspired by classical

Every new Picchiotti collection is unveiled at

lines and are characterized by the elegance of their style,

Baselworld, the result of 12 months of artistic creation and

transcending fickle trends. Customers describe them as

skilled craftsmanship. Immediately after Baselworld, the

“timeless heirlooms” to be passed on to a favorite

design team prepares a preliminary selection of new ideas

daughter or niece, for generations to come.

for the next collection. Each design is then evaluated by

Additionally, with an open mind toward the

the Picchiotti family members, who share a common

challenging economic environment and the evolution in

fundamental belief: The perfect mix in an ideal collection

consumers’ needs and tastes, Picchiotti has gradually

is the balance between the harmonious shapes found in

introduced new lines characterized by innovative design

nature and the clean lines found in architecture. These are

and inspired by modern and vibrant fashion, while

indeed Picchiotti’s true sources of inspiration.

maintaining an enduring style and a distinctive pattern.

At Picchiotti few simple guidelines must also be

These pieces have been conceived to be worn as

followed. Refined design reflecting Picchiotti’s creativity.

“everyday” accessories, yet they reflect Picchiotti’s

Opulence and richness befitting a masterpiece. Simple,

cherished standards of quality and craftsmanship, with all

clear shapes for the classical line. Innovation for the more

the attributes of Fine Jewelry.

fashionable items

The artful fusion of classical styling interpreted for

In addition to the classically elegant pieces that are

modern collectors has landed Picchiotti’s work in the

fundamental to all Picchiotti collections, there are also

grateful hands of the world’s most prestigious retailers.

new pieces inspired by youthful and vibrant fashions,

The company’s dedication to excellence in the art of

innovative designs that will meet the taste of a young,

designing and manufacturing has been recognized by the

sophisticated audience, one that appreciates the fine

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Jewellery Historian

UNIQUE ART NECKLACE

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2017 COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS

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2017 COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS

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Jewellery Historian

2017 COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS

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Jewellery Historian

2017 COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS

Jewellery Historian

| Haute Joaillerie 50th anniversary ring and 2017 collection debut at

craftsmanship that goes into every Picchiotti creation.

Baselworld A family affair

To celebrate its 50th Anniversary in 2017, Picchiotti has created L’Anfiteatro, an 8.05-carat ruby ring inspired by a

Founded in Valenza, Italy, in 1967, the brand name

classic amphitheatre and designed by founder and CEO,

Picchiotti defines one-of-a-kind Fine Jewelry. Founder

Giuseppe Picchiotti. The ring debut at Baselworld 2017,

Giuseppe Picchiotti, over the course of five decades, has

the World Watch and Jewellery Show in Basel, Switzerland

nurtured and fashioned the brand which has earned an

(March 23-30). Picchiotti also unveil at Baselworld 2017 its

international reputation for craftsmanship, quality and

2017 Collection featuring Picchiotti Signature Pieces and

artistry.

the company’s new and innovative Xpandable Collection of rings and bracelets.

Coming from a long line of distinguished pharmacists, Giuseppe had to break with tradition to follow his dream.

“For our 50th Anniversary I wanted to create a jewel

Against his family’s wishes, at the age of 13, Giuseppe

that captured the essence of Picchiotti style and

began working as a goldsmith. He apprenticed in a small

craftsmanship,” said Mr. Picchiotti, “while keeping the

workshop in Valenza where world-renowned artists were

spirit of innovative creativity very much alive and moving

perfecting their craft. He moved on to study at Valenza’s

forward. I believe L’Anfiteatro is all that and more, a

Istituto Professionale Orafo, obtaining the knowledge and

remarkable ruby, and a setting deeply infused with the

training necessary to start his own atelier.

essence of Picchiotti style.”

Giuseppe opened his atelier with his sister, Annamaria, who was, and still is, responsible for managing all

About L’Anfiteatro

administrative areas of the business. This solid partnership

allowed Giuseppe to concentrate on his beloved

The Picchiotti 50th Anniversary Ring is reminiscent of an

passions: designs and gemstones. Traveling the world in

amphitheatre, with three fans of “seats” (baguette

search of stones worthy of his designs has made him a

diamonds) looking over the “leading actor” (the oval

true connoisseur, and even today working with colored

ruby). Weighing over 8 carats, the remarkable ruby is an

stones is his labor of love and guiding passion.

exceptionally beautiful stone that has been classified as entirely natural, with no heat-treatment or color

Today, this highly successful, world-renowned

enhancement, which is very rare for a ruby of this size.

enterprise is run by Giuseppe and seven family members including his wife, Matilde (Marily), daughter, Maria

“It is the perfect stone, the one I had been searching

Carola, his two sons, Filippo and Umberto, his sister,

for to create this special piece that marks this special

Annamaria and niece Francesca.

milestone,” said Mr. Picchiotti, “a piece for the true connoisseur, an heirloom worthy of an exceptional

Each family member is responsible for a different

collection.”

aspect of the company and each contributes greatly to its

An excerpt from “Picchiotti: The First Fifty Years,” a

success. Picchiotti comments: “Since the very beginning I

new book by jewelry historian Vivienne Becker:

always liked the idea that one day I would surround

“The 50th anniversary ring, exuberant, exciting yet

myself with my children and relatives to help me with the

sublimely elegant, is, Giuseppe feels, the most

business.” Giuseppe Picchiotti, just like the remarkable

spectacular illustration of Picchiotti’s refined, rarefied

architecturally-designed jewelry which bears his distinctive

hand-craftsmanship. Inspired by a classical amphitheatre,

mark, has started a tradition of design mastery that will

the soaring shape of the three fan elements lined with

live on through generations – a tradition of fine

baguette diamonds evokes the image of rows of seats

craftsmanship – and a grand passion for excellence in the

overlooking the central stage, in which stands the leading

making of Fine Jewelry.

actor, the protagonist--in this case a breathtakingly beautiful ruby of 8.05 carats, bathed in the diamond

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Jewellery Historian

L’ANFITEATRO ANNIVERSARY RING

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Jewellery Historian

THE PICCHIOTTI FAMILY

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Jewellery Historian

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Jewellery Historian

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limelight of row upon row of specially re-cut baguette

sapphires. Embellished by diamond motifs, these unique

diamonds, meticulously set on the curving, soaring fan

gemstones are for one-of-a- kind earrings.

shaped motifs. Giuseppe searched far and wide for the

The soft curls of the Feather brooch, one of Picchiotti’s

ultimate gemstone to celebrate 50 years of Picchiotti’s

most successful designs, now appear in a miniature

gem artistry and craftsmanship. He found just what he was

version, set throughout with diamonds, and kept together

looking for in this exceptional ruby, from Mozambique, a

by a sinuous spine of square sapphires.

brilliant new stone of extraordinary vivacity and intense colour, with a light, bright and clean crystal structure. Even

“PICCHIOTTI: THE FIRST FIFTY YEARS” BY

more remarkable, the ruby has been classified as entirely

VIVIENNE BECKERTO

natural, with no heat-treatment or colour enhancement, very rare for a ruby of this size. It is a gemstone with a

In celebration of its 50th Anniversary in 2017, Picchiotti

strong personality and imposing presence, with charm,

presents PICCHIOTTI: THE FIRST FIFTY YEARS, by

grace and charisma. A true connoisseur‘s gem, a natural

esteemed jewelry historian and contributing editor for the

treasure, a future heirloom, worthy of a princely collection,

Financial Times, Vivienne Becker. The 248-page book also

and now at the heart of a dynamically different Picchiotti

debut at Baselworld 2017, the World Watch and Jewellery

creation that honours the past and looks to the future.”

Show in Basel, Switzerland (March 23 to 30). Susan Jacques, President and CEO of the Gemological Institute

50 Years of Style

of America (GIA), has written the foreword. “Having launched Picchiotti in 1967, I first went to Basel in 1973...and we have been showing our collections

Since 1967, the distinctive Picchiotti style has been

there every year since,” said Giuseppe Picchiotti, founder

guided by a mix of classicism, deep love for colored

and CEO. “On the occasion of our 50th Anniversary, I am

gemstones, and a dynamic drive towards innovation.

thrilled to unveil this glorious book by Vivienne Becker,

These key ingredients come together with a particular

the story of our family’s half-century of love and

harmony of design, material and technique, all infused

achievement.”

with a powerful Italian ingenuity.

PICCHIOTTI: THE FIRST FIFTY YEARS traces the

Today, 50 years later, Picchiotti jewelry remains true to

astonishing journey of Giuseppe Picchiotti, from his birth

its classical roots and to the original values of design

in Valenza, Italy’s jewelry center, to his position today as

codes and inspirations that, year after year, are continually

the head of a classic Italian Fine Jewelry company revered

renewed through artistry, improved crafts skills and

around the world.

advanced revolutionary technology.

Eschewing his family’s pharmacy business, Giuseppe

The 2017 Collection is a tribute to Picchiotti’s glorious

chose instead to follow his passion for jewelry,

past 50 years, as well as a celebration of the beginning of

apprenticing in an atelier at age 13, later attending

the next 50 years!

jewelry school, and studying English in London. By his

Inspired by the geometry of Art Déco, the design of

early 20s he was designing his own jewelry and traveling

this platinum one-of-a-kind ring frames a single cushion

the world to source precious gemstones. In 1967,

diamond in a seamless border of flawlessly recut baguette

together with his sister Annamaria, and a young assistant,

diamonds. Platinum. Décoratif Collection.

Giuseppe opened his namesake company, Pichiotti.

A classic ring, belonging to the Special Gem

Ms. Becker lovingly chronicles five decades of

Collection, set with a 22.03 carat oval sapphire and

Picchiotti jewelry, influenced by nature and architecture,

surrounded by baguette-cut diamonds. The shank is

embracing Italian craftsmanship and artistry, through the

three-dimensionally set with a diamond micro-pavé on the

discerning eye of its visionary leader, as well as the seven

sides, and baguette diamonds along the center. Platinum.

family members who embody the heart and soul of the

Earrings aglow in a setting of rare splendor belong to

House of Picchiotti.

the Essentially Color Collection, featuring mesmerizing Madagascar pear-shaped pink sapphires and cushion blue

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Jewellery Historian

PICCHIOTTI : THE FIRST FIFTY YEARS (cover)

Jewellery Historian

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About the Author

1980s: La Colonna Romana

Vivienne Becker is an internationally renowned jewelry

This Picchiotti signature piece features an exceptional

historian and contributing editor for the Financial Times’

square ruby and baguette diamond workmanship that

“How To Spend It” magazine. She is the author of

results in a necklace of pure beauty and artistry. Inspired

numerous articles and books on the history of jewelry and

by architectural elements known as “Colonna Romana,”

jewelry making, including “Antique and Twentieth-

the necklace is unmistakably Picchiotti, with square rubies

Century Jewelry,” “The Impossible Collection of Jewelry,”

set in yellow gold and baguette diamonds set on white

and “Art Nouveau Jewelry.” She is also a co-author of

gold. Onyx rounds out the elegant trio in this setting.

“Read My Pins : Stories from a Diplomat’s Jewel Box,” with former Secretary of State Madeleine Korbel Albright.

1990s: The Ruby Cascade

Ms. Becker lectures on jewelry in Britain, Asia, and the US.

A master at making colored stones the focal point of his About the Design

pieces, Picchiotti created the Ruby Cascade, a cascade necklace of round cabochon rubies set in yellow gold and

PICCHIOTTI: THE FIRST FIFTY YEARS was designed in

large baguettes set in platinum. Together they result in a

London under the artistic direction of Misha Anikst of

one-of-a-kind, world-class design. This piece was honored

Anikst Design, and printed in Italy. The book contains

with the 1998 Annual Couture Design Award in the

more than 150 color photographs, including signature

Colored Gemstone Category for Picchiotti’s exceptional

Picchiotti pieces through the decades: from the iconic

workmanship with rubies

1967 Rose Brooch, a bloom of 400 brilliant-cut pavé-set diamonds on a baguette stem, to the magnificent 2017

2000s: The Marily Ring

50th Anniversary L’Anfiteatro Ruby Ring.

To celebrate its 40th Anniversary in 2007, Mr. Picchiotti 5 MASTERPIECES FOR 5 DECADES

conceived a very personal work of art: Marily. This important and prestigious ring bears the name of his wife and partner, a critical contributor to the success of the

As Picchiotti, one of the leading jewelry manufactures

company. Also inspired by the discovery of a cushion-cut

of the world, is celebrating its 50th anniversary, here is a

Fancy Yellowish Brown diamond weighing over 15 carats,

retrospective of Picchiotti’s main works of art spanning

the Marily features rare proportions and a sweet shape,

over five decades. These are masterpieces that have each

with square diamonds in the outline re-cut one-by-one in

marked their own decade, granting Picchiotti a special

a tapered fashion.

place among the nest jewelry houses.

2017: L’Anfiteatro

1967-1979: The Rose Brooch

To celebrate the company’s 50th Anniversary in 2017, and

A magni cent achievement from half a century ago, the

to mark this momentous milestone, Mr. Picchiotti wanted

iconic Rose Brooch has marked the history of Picchiotti.

to create a jewel that captured the essence of Picchiotti

The bloom of over 400 brilliant-cut pavé-set diamonds

style and craftsmanship. The exuberant, exciting yet

includes a rich rose head where each of the seven petals

sublimely elegant ring is inspired by a classical

is composed separately, and then assembled with the

amphitheater, evoking rows of seats overlooking the

mastery and finesse that go into every Picchiotti design.

central stage on which stands the leading actor, the

The sinuous stem is set with specially re-cut baguette

protagonist. An exceptional ruby of 8.05 carats, bathed in

diamonds to complete this work of art.

diamond limelight, dazzles with extraordinary vivacity and intense color. With a light, bright and clean crystal

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Jewellery Historian

THE ROSE BROOCH

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Jewellery Historian

LA COLONNA ROMANA

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Jewellery Historian

THE RUBY CASCADE

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Jewellery Historian

THE MARILY RING

Jewellery Historian

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structure, the ruby is even more remarkable as it has been

and designers have created two exceptional rings and

classified as entirely natural, with no heat treatment or

new matching Rose ring and earrings for the Titanium

color enhancement, very rare for a ruby of this size.

Collection.

TITANIUM MINI-CAPSULE COLLECTION DEBUT IN

Blue Titan

BASEL A masterwork ring made entirely of blue Titanium, this Picchiotti founder and CEO Giuseppe Picchiotti will

ring showcases Picchiotti’s impeccable workmanship.

unveil a new mini-capsule collection of Titanium jewelry at

Diamonds encircle white mother-of-pearl, which streams

Baselworld 2017, the World Watch and Jewellery Show in

down from a magnificent 5-carat cushion-cut sapphire

Basel, Switzerland (March 23-30). The Titanium Collection

with no heat treatment or color enhancement.

joins the 2017 Picchiotti Collection featuring Signature Pieces and the company’s new and innovative Xpandable

The Titan Rose

Collection of rings and bracelets. Mr. Picchiotti remarked: “Thanks to our highly trained

For 50 years, the company’s Signature Rose motif and

goldsmiths and our constant research for new

classic Rose collections have made Picchiotti renowned

technologies, we have created two exceptional Titanium

among the nest jewelers in the world. Now Picchiotti has

rings as well as anodized red-purple Titanium pieces in

applied innovative Titanium technology and improved

our iconic Rose motif.”

artisan skills to create more modern, stylized Rose pieces for a new age: anodized red-purple Titanium in tandem

A Noble Metal

with white gold for coordinated rings and earrings

featuring white diamonds and red rubies.

Titanium is a noble metal whose name derives from the

Combining the long tradition of Picchiotti’s beloved

Greek god of strength, Titan. Named in 1793 by the

Rose blossoms with a twist of innovation and precision

German chemist M.H. Klaproth, Titanium is characterized

design, Picchiotti has merged old-world craftsmanship

by a warm gray color. Titanium is extremely light and

and new technology to present the 21st Century Titanium

non-allergenic, and it can be used alone or as an alloy

Collection.

with other metals. Red Titan Anodization Produces Color Even more unusual, this design features an internal   Titanium can be colored via a procedure called

Titanium structure that supports the entire ring. The

“anodization,” in which the metal is heated in order to

structure is coated with rosé gold enhanced by a unique

produce specific colors. The metal is coated with an

combination of Rosé and multicolored Ethiopian Opal, a

extremely thin layer of Titanium Oxide, and by using

very fine quality opal, embellished with diamond motifs

electrolytic techniques these layers are thickened to

and an emerald-cut diamond weighing over 17 carats.

produce a vast range of colors. Once the desired color is achieved it does not change.

XPANDABLE COLLECTION

For Skilled Artisans Only

Where Beauty Meets Comfort and FIt

Because Titanium is such a hard metal it can be difficult to

Since its introduction in 2016, the Xpandable

work with, requiring highly skilled and trained artisans

Collection by Picchiotti has met with tremendous

who know how to shape it into the works of art for which

worldwide success. This revolutionary line of diamond and

Picchiotti is known. These experienced Picchiotti artisans

gemstone jewelry uses innovative and invisible

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Jewellery Historian

UNIQUE ART EARRINGS

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THE TITAN ROSE EARRINGS

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BLUE TITAN

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RED TITAN

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technology to expand and contract, solving a myriad of customer challenges concerning comfort and fit. Now, by popular demand, Picchiotti introduces several new designs to both its Classical and Fashion collections. BUFF-TOP   A bracelet and coordinating ring dazzle with diamond pavé-set links alternating with elegant lines of bu -top sapphires. GOLD ACCENTED   This chic and re ned gold-accented selection of rings and a bracelet, with sparkling diamonds, will glow beautifully on the fortunate woman who wears them. THE ART OF BAGUETTES   Giuseppe Picchiotti’s distinctive designs are known far and wide by his signature usage of calibrated stones, particularly baguettes. The use of such stones is a highly demanding and expensive aspect of jewelry design, which over the years has prompted many collections known as “The Art of Baguettes.” This exceptional technique has now been applied to Picchiotti’s Xpandable bands: beautiful baguette diamonds paired with precision-cut octagonal sapphires and emeralds create exclusive and highly sophisticated rings.

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Xpandable Collection Diamond and Sapphires

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Xpandable Collection Wide gold-accented bangle, set with diamonds

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Xpandable Collection Wide gold-accented ring, set with diamonds

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Xpandable Collection Square diamonds and octagonal emeralds

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Xpandable Collection Emerald-cut diamonds and octagonal sapphires

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Xpandable Collection Gold-accented bangle, set with diamonds

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Xpandable Collection Square diamonds and octagonal sapphires

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Gemology

J A D E I T E

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THE BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS BY EVA KOUNTOURAKI

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Unlike most gems that show their best when set in precious metals and would better not be touched so that their surface reflections remain undisturbed, this one is a gem that ought to be felt rather than simply looked at. It should preferably be worn against our bare skin so we can be in direct contact with its immaculate surface and feel its luscious essence. Jadeite is by all means a precious and beautiful gemstone, but still, this is a restricting title when used for this treasure; because Jadeite is so much more than simply that. Jadeite is one of the most mystical, mysterious and overwhelming gemstones in existence. According to ancient beliefs, it is the material that links Heaven with Earth, or else, it is the connection between the spiritual sphere and materiality. The link between what a man is and what he ought to be. So jadeite is here to inspire us and remind us that we are capable of obtaining the ultimate beauty and cleansing of our soul, but at the same time shows us how earthy and materialistic we still are. And this is similar to what humans are willing to go through in order to obtain jadeite. In fact, mining for this gem involves situations, dangers and challenges that are beyond most people’s wildest, and often scariest, imagination. In a remote area hidden in the mountains of North Burma there is a location called “Jade land”. It is a region which is either unreachable during the dry season because of the terrible dust whose fine particles fill your eyes and block your breath; or impossibly unreachable during the wet season, because of the severe monsoons in a wild jungle infested with disease-bearing mosquitoes, where tons of sticky and dangerous mud and streaming turbulent water turn all the passages into dangerous traps.

Still, even in these conditions, the

miners defy all dangers and cross the inhospitable land with the hope to find a piece of heaven in the dirt. North Burma is the unique source for what the market calls imperial jadeite, or else, the finest and most extraordinary variety of jadeite, which exhibits an intense green colour, fine texture and a level of translucency that is unseen among other varieties and qualities. THE HUTTON-MDIVANI NECKLACE  was acquired by THE CARTIER COLLECTION Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S

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Central America, especially Guatemala, is another

if the material is of high quality and not treated, as they

important source of jadeite.

are entirely carved out of one piece of jadeite so there is a high percentage of waste during the fashioning process.

Apart from the ‘imperial’ green, jadeite occurs in

One such bangle, with a diameter of about 6cm, sold for

all shades of green as well as in a variety of other colours

more than $2.5 million in a Hong Kong auction more than

which include white and black, purple, yellow, orange and

fifteen years ago.

brown; a mottled appearance with more than one colour is also commonly encountered. Jadeite’s quality is judged

Jadeite is often referred to as the “stone of

based on a combination of its colour, its texture and its

heaven” as for many it represents a piece of paradise

degree of translucency. It is an aggregate material, not a

handed down to us by the gods. Its rich feel satisfies our

single crystal like most important gemstones, which

will for material wealth, and its precious essence and

means that it is very difficult for such a substance to be

heavy history urge us to follow the path for spirituality and

anything else than opaque. However, in its highest quality,

inner peace. The nature of jadeite, this truly extraordinary

jadeite is composed of microscopic interlocking crystals

material, can be summed up in this important Greek

that give it a fine texture, a smooth surface that takes a

poet’s quote: “Man is a pyramid. On its basis the beast,

high luster and a translucent body that allows the light to

on its top God. Our duty is climbing our way up.”

refract in it and make it glow with a mesmerizing shine. So it takes pain, inhuman fighting with vile This same microcrystalline structure is responsible

weather and environmental conditions, and personal

for jadeite’s exceptional toughness. In fact, jadeite is the

suffering, if you want to find and hold a piece of jadeite.

toughest gemstone we use, which means it is very difficult

But still, there is hope. Hope that once you surpass the

to break. However, it’s moderately high rating in the

arduousness you will be awarded with a piece of Heaven.

hardness scale allows us to carve it in intricate forms and

A boulder of godly material that once you touch you can

create unique objects that can reach sky-high prices in the

never forget the feeling and constantly keep craving for…

world’s markets. In fact, some of the most expensive pieces ever sold in auctions included jadeite. One such example is the “Hutton-Mdivani”, a graduated bead necklace composed by twenty-seven spheres of imperial material, which set an auction record in 2014, when it fetched a staggering $27.44 million at Sotheby’s. Jadeite is deeply tied to two ancient and important civilizations, the Chinese and the Mesoamerican. The Olmec, the Mayan, the Aztecs, praised jadeite more than gold, and used it for their weapons, taking advantage of its physical properties, as well as for ornamental and religious objects of maximum importance. The Chinese have treasured jadeite for more than 3000 years and have been creating jewelry pieces of symbolic significance out of it for millennia. Hololith bangle bracelets are probably the most important type of jadeite jewelry and are worn as protective amulets that symbolize eternity and unity. The price of such bracelets can be quite substantial, especially

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The art of creativity

GEA

T H E O R I G I N O F C R E AT I O N

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The admiration of nature and its exquisite perfection is an exercise that arouses our interest in gaining increased knowledge of the beautiful environment that surrounds us. Here, surprising phenomena are constantly taking place. From an admiration for the earth as the center of all creation, Gea was born, a collection created by world famous MAGERIT JOYAS and inspired by the origin of life and the harmony of nature.

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The admiration of nature and its exquisite perfection is an

highly original and refreshing pieces, Magerit’s foremost

exercise that arouses our interest in gaining increased

objective is to breathe new life into the traditional

knowledge of the beautiful environment that surrounds

jewellery industry. With the increasing global outreach,

us. Here, surprising phenomena are constantly taking

the company displays its collections in many top jewellery

place.

exhibitions, and has developed strong roots both domestically and within the international market.

Only in nature do we find numerous species in continuous development, giving us infinite shapes, sizes, textures and

It is an important part of the company’s product

colours. Every living being is unique and unrepeatable.

philosophy to distance itself from the standard selection

The miracle of creation manifests itself incessantly in the

of jewellery products. Magerit has built a reputation of

natural world.

uncompromising commitment to providing its customers with jewellery of utmost quality and uniqueness. Strong

From an admiration for the earth as the center of all

internal culture and collaboration between employees

creation, Gea was born, a collection inspired by the origin

helps effectively oversee the process of product

of life and the harmony of nature.

development and ensure strict quality control.

The careful fusion between fantasy and realism offers

Magerit has used the unlimited ingenuity and the

amazing creations that breathe delicacy and femininity.

savoir-faire of its jewelers to the fullest to develop its own

The chromatic variety is especially important, offering

distinctive and characterised style of portraying the

freshness and warmth to the original designs. The use of

aesthetic appeal of natural and historic motifs within its

blue and green stones recalls the colours of the earth.

collections. The original artisanal skills of craftsmen combined with modern technologies enable the creation

Organic motifs that make reference to seeds, petals and

of jewels which encompass both novelty and personality.

flowers abound. The figurative touch, always present in

An important attribute of Magerit jewels is their serial

the brand’s collections, is the protagonist in the most

number, which is engraved on individual pieces and which

important proposals of the collection.

guarantees their exclusive nature as a unique, hand-crafted item. Distinguishing design and superior

As in nature, every Magerit creation represents a unique,

quality are Magerit products’ main features which

original and unrepeatable piece.

differentiate the brand from other jewellery producers in the industry.

Magerit is a Spanish company made up of professionals whose knowledge and great experience in the field of fine

Magerit’s jewellery blends its designers’ creativity and

jewellery cultivates designs distinguished by a high

originality with the sophisticated, handcrafted finishes of

degree of both creativity and originality.

each individual piece. Its exclusive designs never go unnoticed and set their wearer apart. The company is

When founded in 1994, it was important to the creators

currently based in the city of Madrid and has one hundred

to embrace the essence of Spanish culture. The

retail locations in twenty countries.

headquarters were established in the heart of Spain, and even the company’s name, Magerit, an ancient name for

At the Jewellery Historian, we believe that Magerit is one

the thriving city of Madrid, reflects this. Like the meaning

of the brands that every woman should own a piece of

behind the name, ‘place of many streams’, Magerit draws

jewellery. Their jewellery is not only sophisticated but

inspiration from many cultures to create exquisite pieces

each piece is a real piece of art.

of art, which are as unique as the people who wear them. Magerit takes pride in making top-quality artisanal jewellery. From creating bespoke personal designs to

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Aurea Inspired by the golden spiral, it repeats itself in nature and guarantees the harmony of any creation. A symbol of growth, evolution, continuous development and eternity. 18K gold, set with sapphires and diamonds

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Inspired by the golden spiral, it repeats itself in nature and guarantees the harmony of any creation. A symbol of growth, evolution, continuous development and eternity. 18K gold, set with sapphires and diamonds

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Aurea

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Germina (from the Latin seed) The figure of a woman born from the inside of a seed is meant to symbolize the origin of life and the magic of the moment of creation. 18K gold, set with amethyst and diamonds

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Genus (from the Latin birth) Inspired by the original form adopted by multiple flowering births. 18K gold, topaz and diamonds

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Genus (from the Latin birth) Inspired by the original form adopted by multiple flowering births. 18K gold, topaz and diamonds

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Veris (from the Latin spring) This set represents nature and fertility as key elements of continuity and development. Woman and vegetation combine in a delicate embrace, giving life to a piece that surprises with its elegance and femininity. 18K gold set with white and green diamonds

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This set represents nature and fertility as key elements of continuity and development. Woman and vegetation combine in a delicate embrace, giving life to a piece that surprises with its elegance and femininity. 18K gold set with white and green diamonds

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Veris (from the Latin spring)

ART

5 1 7C5 A

From the Great Mughals to the Maharajas Jewels from The Al Thani Collection

B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

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The Tiger Eye Turban Ornament Cartier London, 1937 , Platinum, diamonds   Brooch: H. 12.7 cm; W. 6 cm; Weight of the Tiger Eye diamond: 61.50 ct © The Al Thani Collection. All rights reserved. Photo Laziz Hamani

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The exhibition From the Great Mughals to the Maharajas: Jewels from The Al

From the Mughal Empire to independence, passing by the French and British colonial era, enjoy a fairytale fantasy and historical journey with the exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris.

Thani Collection allows visitors to immerse themselves in the jewellery traditions of the Indian subcontinent, from the Mughal period to the modern day, installed within an evocative and ethereal setting. The evolution of gem-setting and jewellery will be shown through over two hundred and seventy exceptional pieces from The Al Thani Collection, together with major works on loan from prestigious institutions and private collections. Famous historic Indian diamonds, spectacular precious objects and legendary pieces of jewellery will be brought together to represent the evolution of taste and technique in India’s jewelled arts over five centuries. The exhibition also presents the major developments in Indian jewellery traditions, from the peak of XVIIth century Mughal imperial patronage through years of political chaos and colonisation from the XVIIIth century onwards, to the age of the Durbar, great ceremonies that provided Indian sovereigns with a new setting in which to show off their jewels during the time of the British Raj. The exhibition repositions Indian jewellery traditions within the rich and complex cultures of the courts where they first originated, demonstrating how the profusion of stones and precious metals in the subcontinent led to the development of a sophisticated ornamental culture. Entering first in a Royal Treasury, visitors will find themselves surrounded by an exceptional group of dynastic gems, among which are the celebrated Agra, Idol’s Eye and Arcot II diamonds, all originating in India’s celebrated Golconda diamond mines. These are complimented by emeralds and spinels, some engraved with the names and titles of the rulers who owned them. The refinement of Mughal visual culture is a central theme of the exhibition, as is the dialogue it created with Europe over the course of numerous stylistic and technical exchanges that began with the Renaissance. Jade and rock crystal were celebrated at the Mughal court and define the second section of the experience. The exhibition brings together some exceptional pieces such as the Wine of Cup of the Emperor Jahangir, the earliest dated Mughal jade, inscribed with verses of Persian poetry along with the titles of the ruler and the Shah Jahan Dagger, whose blade is engraved with the title of the emperor. Indian jades were prized in China, as may be seen in a delicate opium cup with an ibex head engraved with a poem composed by the Qialong Emperor. Indian jewellery is characterised by the distinctive kundan technique, in which gemstones are set in gold without any prongs or mounts and by delicate polychrome enamel. The third section will bring together examples from throughout India. A solid gold gem-set pen case represents a form that is seen in miniature paintings but rarely survives. Such a luxurious object would have been used in the highest courtly circles for inscribing Imperial decrees. The exhibition brings together two jewelled tiger-headed finials from the throne of Tipu Sultan. A highlight is a rich offering of 18th century green-ground enamels from Hyderabad which would have been used in the rituals of a formal durbar – or court – visit. Another highlight will be a gem-set stool lent by the State Hermitage Museum which formed part of the original loot taken from the Mughal treasury by Nadir Shah, who invaded Delhi in 1739. The fourth section focuses on regalia and jewellery for adornment, starting with a spectacular display of turban ornaments from the 17th to 20th centuries. This

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The Nawanagar Cartier, 1937 Plantinum, rubies and diamonds  © Christie’s Images Ltd

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Turban Ornament (sarpech) India, around 1900 ( turban ornament ) ; Paris 2012 (clip Cartier) Gold, silver, emerald, diamonds, pearl H: 11,7 cm; l: 12,8 cm ÂŠ The Al Thani Collection 2013. All rights reserved. Photo Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd

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View from the exhibition Joyaux de la collection Al Thani Â© Rmn-Grand Palais / Collection Al Thani

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View from the exhibition Joyaux de la collection Al Thani Â© Rmn-Grand Palais / Collection Al Thani

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View from the exhibition Joyaux de la collection Al Thani Â© Rmn-Grand Palais / Collection Al Thani

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grouping will focus on the high taste of Maharajas in the British Raj including

The exhibition closes with a homage to contemporary jewellery made by Indian jewellers or inspired by India. These include outstanding creations by Cartier and JAR which incorporate historic Indian gems.

spectacular diamond necklaces and jewelled articles such as a Hyderabad state sword and the Baroda pearl canopy. The exhibition moves forward with a concentration of outstanding jewellery made by European houses either for Indian princes or inspired by Indian taste. These include the exceptional enamel peacock aigrette made by Mellerio dits Meller and bought by Maharaja Jagatjit Singh of Kapurthala. Maharaja Bhupinder of Patiala was a particularly important patron. Among his many acquisitions displayed in this exhibition are a spectacular ceremonial diamond necklace, created specially for him, and a ruby choker made for one of his wives. Also on display are two of Cartier’s most dazzling creations for the Maharaja Digvijaysinhji, son of the Maharaja Ranjitsinhji of Nawanagar, himself a ne connoisseur of precious stones who maintained close links with Jacques Cartier: the «Tiger Eye», an exceptional cognac-coloured diamond mounted in a turban ornament, and a superb Art Deco necklace made with rubies belonging to the royal treasury. The exhibition closes with a homage to contemporary jewellery made by Indian jewellers or inspired by India. These include outstanding creations by Cartier and JAR which incorporate historic Indian gems. The work of Mumbai jeweller Viren Bhagat fuses contemporary technique and materials with traditional jewellery forms and ornament. The curators of this exceptional exhibition are Dr Amin Jaffer, Chief Curator, Al Thani Collection ; Amina Taha-Hussein Okada, Senior Curator, musée national des arts asiatiques - Guimet. The exhibition was designed by bGc Studio. It is open daily from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., and until 10 p.m. on Wednesday Closed every Tuesday. To access you can use metro lines 1 & 13 «ChampsElysées-Clemenceau» or line 9 «Franklin D.Roosevelt». The exhibition catalogue of 400 pages with 370 illustrations is a publication, Réunion des musées nationaux - Grand Palais Editions, Paris 2017.

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The Arcot II India, around 1760 ; recut in 1959 and 2011 Diamond, L. 2,61 cm ; l. 1,61 cm ; D. 0,6 cm ; weight : 17,21 ct ÂŠ The Al Thani Collection 2016. All rights reservec. Photo Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd

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The Agra Found in India in 1526 ; recut in 1880 and 1990 Diamant , 1,87 cm x 1,7 cm; ĂŠp. 1 cm; poids: 28,15 ct Rose intense ÂŠ The Al Thani Collection. All rights reserved. Photo Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd

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a colourful history

For over five decades, royalty and international collectors have composed the clientele of the esteemed British jewellery brand which David Morris established in 1962. Jeremy Morris has since followed in his fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s footsteps and is now managing director and principal designer of David Morris. From within the elegant New Bond Street atelier, in the heart of London, beautiful couture jewellery is hand crafted to the highest standards using only the finest stones to ensure each unique piece is a work of art.

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Logo courtesy of DAVID MORRIS. Used with permission. ÂŠ DAVID MORRIS

B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

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Jewellery Historian

An exceptional example of a rare Padparadscha. Named after the salmon-coloured aquatic lotus flower, these sapphires are unique to Ceylon and are extremely scarce.  This 12.30ct Padparadscha sapphire ring features David Morris’ signature diamond surround setting, with 7.39cts of white kite-shape and round pink diamonds mounted in 18ct white gold.

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Internationally renowned for creating breathtaking jewellery of flawless design, the legacy of David Morris,

| Haute Joaillerie commission from David Morris for the prince’s 21st birthday.

the London Jeweller, is truly compelling. Established over

In 1969 this international success was translated into

50 years ago and family-owned for two generations,

the boutique moving to its first Mayfair location and in

David Morris is a jeweller of proud heritage that has

1972 David Morris was honoured with the task of

stayed true to its origins of creating fine jewellery with a

designing the Miss World crown. Approached by founder

creative design ‘twist’ and of utilising only the nest, most

of the competition Eric Morley to redesign the existing

valuable gemstones in a glorious array of colours. Located

crown, David Morris conceived an iconic creation of

on London’s fabled Bond Street, the flagship boasts the

turquoise, lapis lazuli and diamonds that is still in use

rarity of an on-site atelier where artisans skillfully produce

today, and still as fresh in design as it was then.

precious creations.

In the interim, through his friendship with client

Captivated by fine jewellery and enamoured of the

Roger Moore and set designer Maurice Pinder, David

design process from a young age, David Morris began his

Morris began a long-standing and fruitful collaboration

illustrious career at the age of 15 as an apprentice in

with Eon Productions to supply jewellery for the James

London’s famed jewellery quarter, Hatton Garden. Having

Bond lm series. Beginning in 1971 with the magnificent

just graduated as a goldsmith from London’s Central

gems that illuminate the title sequence in Diamonds are

School of Arts and Crafts (now part of the esteemed

Forever, 1974 saw Maud Adams entice Roger Moore’s

Central Saint Martin School of Design), David Morris

James Bond in a golden suite of jewels in e Man with the

instantly gained the respect of his peers when he and his

Golden Gun.

design partner successively claimed the 9th and 10th De

Continuing on from this successful relationship

Beers Diamonds International Awards held annually in

many years later, David Morris again provided jewels for

New York.

more contemporary films, most memorably the scalloped

Along with many of his contemporaries, David

diamond ‘Bond’ riviere necklace worn by Teri Hatcher as

Morris was influenced by London’s 1960’s cultural

she seduces Pierce Brosnan’s James Bond in 1997’s

avant-garde, but made his own unique contribution with

Tomorrow Never Dies, as well as adorning Denise

innovative designs, meticulous craftsmanship and

Richards in 1999’s The World is Not Enough.

trendsetting colour combinations, all of which soon led to

Still recognised today as the jewellery brand

a loyal following and the opening of his first eponymous

synonymous with the James Bond franchise, the Bond

Hatton Garden store in 1962.

jewels are now part of a travelling exhibition, ‘Designing

His first royal connection came in the form of a

007 – Fifty Years of Bond Style’, which opened in 2012 at

commission from the Government of Lichtenstein and was

the Barbican in London. Also central to a diamond heist

for a bespoke sapphire and diamond tiara presented to

movie, David Morris gems, along with son Jeremy’s

Countess Kinsky of Austria by Crown Prince Hans Adam

design studio, played a central role in Guy Ritchie’s 2000

on the occasion of their marriage in July 1967. This royal

movie, Snatch.

seal of approval resulted in many more commissions and

In 1996, the David Morris boutique relocated from

a clientele that constituted some of the world’s most

Conduit Street, taking its rightful place on London’s

pre-eminent collectors including Elizabeth Taylor, Queen

legendary New Bond Street, Mayfair, in a magnificent

Noor of Jordan, Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran, Princess

townhouse dating from 1908. Designed by Scots architect

Margaret and Princess Ann.

William Flockhart, the flagship’s original façade of cast

More recently, a David Morris creation was seen

stone with stately pilasters remains intact, as does the

around the world on the bonnet of the vintage Aston

stunning hand- carved, gold leaf French paneling inside.

Martin car driven down the Mall in London by the Duke

Forming part of the only historically listed building on

and Duchess of Cambridge on their wedding day. The car,

Bond Street, the boutique provides the perfect genteel

which belongs to the Prince of Wales, was a gift from his

environment for a discerning clientele.

mother the Queen and is mounted with a small dragon, a

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Jewellery Historian

The important Sunset Ruby necklace, named after the exceptionally vivid 16.59ct Ceylon ruby with unusual shimmering tones of orange, pink and red, which caught Managing Director and designer Jeremy Morrisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; eye. Dangling from the necklace on a long chain of 33.48cts of vivid pink and white diamonds is another incredibly rare gem - a detachable natural 30.30ct pearl drop.

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Jewellery Historian

An exceptional example of a rare Padparadscha. Named after the salmon- coloured aquatic lotus flower, these sapphires are unique to Ceylon and are extremely scarce. This Padparadscha sapphire, natural pearl and diamond necklace can be transformed into a detachable brooch in 18ct white and red gold. Total Pearl Weight: 179.02cts Total Padparadscha Weight: 36.33cts Total Diamond Weight: 30.76cts

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Jewellery Historian

To compliment the beautiful necklace, these Padparadscha sapphire and natural pearl earrings with 10.66ct & 10.18ct briolette drops and pink and white diamonds in 18ct white and rose gold make the perfect statement of colour. Total diamond weight: 28.26cts Total pearl weight: 21.27cts Total sapphire weight: 6.00cts

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Jeremy Morris took over the helm of David Morris from his father in 2003 and soon collaborated with

| Haute Joaillerie combines his gemstones in a way that creates a glorious array of colour.

celebrated English interior designer David Collins to

He has been commissioned to create jewels for the

create a showroom with sleek bespoke furnishings and

late Gianni Versace and Barbra Streisand while Queen

warm hues of taupe and soft gold. Each piece has been

Rania of Jordan and Oprah Winfrey are among his clients.

personally designed, from the handcrafted leather chairs

Yasmin Le Bon, Catherine Deneuve, Beyoncé Knowles

and desks to the sleek antique mirrored display cabinets,

and Catherine Zeta-Jones are amongst many to have

creating a sophisticated environment that perfectly

appeared on the red carpet bejeweled by David Morris.

reflects the contemporary glamour and re ned craftsmanship of David Morris fine jewellery.

The ultimate recognition of this exceptional design, craftsmanship and technique was given when an item of

Having studied fine art in London, with 5 years

David Morris jewellery was selected to be included in the

apprenticing with illustrious Place Vendôme jewellers and

permanent exhibition of the Jewellery Room at the

a stint with an Antwerp diamond supplier, Jeremy Morris

Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The donated

was perfectly positioned to take over as Managing

piece, a pair of earrings from the Heritage collection, was

Director and principal designer and steer the company

inspired by David Morris’s ‘flexi’ ring of the early 1960’s

into the new millennium. He believes that the attraction to

and designed in 2012 to celebrate the company’s fiftieth

David Morris jewellery lies not only in the fabulous and

anniversary.

original designs but also in the very gems that are

As stated by the museum, “these earrings, by

handpicked for each creation. His inspiration comes from

London jeweller David Morris, unite elegant design with

all over the world and focuses on the beauty of the stones

superb gemstones and exacting craftsmanship. In

retaining their inherent character.

addition to the large diamonds spaced down the centre

Recent successes include the Rose Cut Diamond

of the earrings, the surface of the white gold glitters

signature collection of jewellery. Named after its

subtly with a fine dusting of diamonds. This effect, termed

resemblance to the petals of a rose bud, the rose cut

‘micro-set’ by David Morris, owes its success to the

diamond was introduced early in the 16th century but

precision and density with which these tiny diamonds are

replaced in popularity by the modern, brilliant-cut

set.”

diamond around the 19th century. The beauty of these

More recently, Jeremy Morris acquired an

diamonds is in their many facets, giving them an almost

outstanding 120 ct. rough diamond from the famed

translucent appearance. Designed by Jeremy Morris and

Cullinan mine in South Africa which, after 8 painstaking

presented to his wife on their wedding day, the rose cut

months of cleaving and polishing, revealed an exceptional

diamond band was designed as a token of love, and as a

59.89ct D colour, type IIa cushion-cut diamond of

David Morris success story, has come to represent a

extraordinary fire and brilliance.

celebration of life.

It is now the centerpiece of an exceptional bangle

Other accomplishments come in the form of the

that features over 10 cts. of pink and white fancy-cut

feminine English Garden collection which depicts a place

diamonds mounted into arresting, independently moving

where magnificent flowers meet mythical creatures and

petals. Taking inspiration for the design from the

richly coloured and articulated butterflies swirl about, or

incredible qualities portrayed in the diamond, Jeremy

the new range of diamond set watches with

Morris envisaged the stone as the cool, limpid waters of a

mother-of-pearl dials and diamond or crocodile leather

pond, while the swaying of the lilies floating upon it came

straps; a contemporary take on the original and

to represent the movement of the delicate, en tremblant

ever-popular rose cut diamond watch design.

pink diamond petals.

Jeremy Morris’s designs are now more directional,

The stone was unveiled at the prestigious La

with delicate oral motifs and expertly combined colours.

Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris in 2014, where David

Just as a master colourist regards his options on a palette

Morris was honoured to exhibit for the first time and

before committing them to canvas, so Jeremy Morris

where they will exhibit again in September 2016. Fittingly

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An Important Burma no heat blue sapphire, paraiba tourmaline & white diamond necklace featuring a large central 46.10ct Cushion Sapphire in 18ct white gold. Total Sapphire Weight: 118.38cts Total Diamond Weight: 49.59cts Total Paraiba Weight: 14.67cts

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An exceptional 8.14ct cushion cut diamond ring with a surround of paraiba tourmaline, blue sapphire and round white diamonds in 18ct white gold. Total diamond weight: 8.76 carats. Total sapphire weight: 1.97 carats.Total Paraiba tourmaline weight: 1.73 carats

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Striking pear-shape earrings featuring 12.71cts of rare Paraiba tourmalines and 13.45ct of marquise-cut diamond surrounds. Discovered relatively recently in the late 1980â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, in the Brazilian State of Paraiba, this tourmaline is a turquoise blue-green gemstone with a vividness and intensity of colour unequalled in any other gem in the world. As most of the stones discovered in the mine were almost all fragments, Paraiba tourmalines of any significant size are incredibly rare, especially as the mine has now yielded all of its gems. Total diamond weight: 13.45 carats. Total Paraiba tourmaline weight: 12.71 carats

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An important 30.03cts Pigeon Blood Burma no heat ruby necklace with white diamond micro- set motifs crafted in 18ct white gold. Total diamond weight: 23.10cts To complete this striking set, these important 18.79cts Pigeon Blood Burma no heat ruby chandelier earrings with pear shape white diamonds set in 18ct white gold. Total diamond weight: 7.07cts

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An important ruby and diamond cuff bangle featuring 59.68cts of rubies and 53.50cts of white diamonds mounted in flexible 18ct white gold. The rubies are certified from Burma, the source of the rarest and most desirable of these gems, with some of them carrying the additional accreditation of being ‘pigeon-blood red’ – the rarest of all. Total diamond weight: 53.50 carats. Total ruby weight: 59.68 carats

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also first launched in 1962, this exhibition is renowned as

creative inspiration behind the past 50 years of David

the place for art lovers and collectors to rub elbows with

Morris.”

internationally esteemed vendors under the glass roof of the Grand Palais.

In December 2014, David Morris launched its second London boutique in renowned department store

“Like the Universal Exhibition of 1900 for which it

Harrods’ Fine Jewellery Room. In the last year the brand’s

was constructed, the Grand Palais and the objects

much anticipated second European flagship store in Paris

exhibited therein are a testimonial to the marriage of

has opened, closely followed by a boutique in Doha,

beauty and technology.” This quote aptly sums up the

Qatar. It latest step in expanding and building the brand

very essence of what makes an item of David Morris

globally. Under Jeremy Morris’s direction, David Morris

jewellery so unique; the marriage of beauty and

now operates boutiques located on the luxury

technology. A perfect example of this innovation in

thoroughfares of Hong Kong, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Moscow,

craftsmanship is the Pirouette collection, featuring

Riyadh, Baku and Doha.

bangles which rely on fluidity of movement yet deceptive

David Morris, the London Jeweller, continues on the

strength for their success. e construction of the highly

principle of creating unique and imaginative pieces to

flexible white gold casing, mounted with an array of

exacting standards. With an innate air for the art of

exceptional gemstones, is a feat of design which allows

jewellery, by combining rare and exquisite stones with

for perfect movement.

traditional materials, David Morris produces jewellery that

All David Morris jewellery is built around the stones, with a minimal use of gold or platinum and the emphasis

transcends generations, each design expressing ingenuity, creativity and unparalleled quality.

being on the diamonds. is re ned manufacturing ensures supreme lightness of metal, giving an intricate, lace-like

Miss Daisy

quality. e mantra of ‘creativity with a twist’, subtle and sophisticated design, a delicate and feminine mix of

Following the release of the exotic Palm collection

colours and the use of incredibly rare and valuable

in 2013, David Morris has evolved the Petite Palm – a

gemstones complete the David Morris design ethos.

more accessible and vividly coloured design that perfectly

In 2015, David Morris announced its first major sponsorship as a supporter of the Royal Academy of Arts.

captures the essence of the tranquil and award-winning gardens of England at the beginning of summertime.

A close neighbour in London’s Mayfair, the partnership

Starting from £9,900 and crafted from either 18ct

found its source in a shared passion for art. Key to the

white or rose gold, this delicate and feminine collection

Academy’s autumn programme was the landmark

comprises four exclusive asymmetric designs: single or

exhibition by highly innovative Chinese artist and Royal

double ower rings and single or two- part drop earrings. A

Academician Ai Weiwei. Curated in collaboration with the

perfectly matching sautoir necklace and bracelet

artist from his studio in Beijing, the exhibition featured

complete the oral arrangement.

some of his most important works from the time he

To mirror the array of colours found in nature, each

returned to China in 1993 from the US, right up to present

piece is expertly set with white diamonds and a variety of

day, featuring the creation of new, site specific

semi-precious gemstones: majestic purple amethyst, regal

installations throughout the Royal Academy spaces.

pink rubellite, luxurious green tourmaline and piercing

With its British culture and history as well as its

blue aquamarine. Subtle white mother-of-pearl, sleek

family tradition, David Morris and the Royal Academy

black onyx and traditional all-diamond versions provide a

both stand for the same values of artistic excellence,

demure alternative.

inspiration and creativity. David Morris creations emanate

All variations feature a brilliant-cut central diamond

from pure artistic freedom, a freedom that the Royal

with micro-set diamonds surrounding each individual leaf.

Academy defends and promotes through its works,

e all-diamond versions utilise marquise and brilliant-cut

debates and exhibitions. Says Jeremy Morris: “Our

stones of superlative quality and clarity to form a luscious

association with the Royal Academy of Arts embodies the

array of foliage.

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Rare Paraiba tourmaline ring featuring 3 oval tourmalines with oval white diamonds interspersed with round micro Paraibas and mounted on 18ct white gold. Discovered relatively recently in the late 1980â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, in the Brazilian State of Paraiba, this tourmaline is a turquoise blue- green gemstone with a vividness and intensity of colour unequalled in any other gem in the world. Total diamond weight: 5.10 carats. Total Paraiba tourmaline weight: 3.17 carats.

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A striking pear shape blue sapphire necklace comprised of 70.12cts of sapphires with white diamond micro-set motifs set in 18ct white gold. Total diamond weight: 31.09cts To complement the necklace these stunning pear shape blue sapphire chandelier earrings with white diamond set in 18ct white gold. Total sapphire weight: 58.62cts. Total diamond weight: 5.93cts

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Petite Palm forms part of David Morris’s feminine

Maintaining a theme of beauty from beneath the

English garden narrative, cleverly combining the palm

waves, Jeremy Morris’ second variation in the collection

leaf’s symbol of peace and victory with David Morris’s

incorporates delicate pink coral beads which contrast

worldwide reputation for creating fine jewellery with a

beautifully with white diamonds while mounted in 18ct

unique design twist.

rose gold. Owing to its intense and permanent coloration and glossiness, precious coral has been harvested since

Pearl Rose

antiquity for decorative use. Coral jewellery has been found in prehistoric

Known as the ‘Queen of Gems’, pearls have a long

European burials and was worn in ancient Egyptian as an

and rich history. Believed to be amongst the rarest and

amulet, believed to bestow protective properties on its

most expensive of jewels, the Romans and Egyptians

wearer. Designs with coral proved especially popular

prized natural pearls above all others. Indeed, in an act of

during the Victorian and Art Deco periods. As with all

defiance to Marc Anthony and in order to prove the

precious metals and rare gemstones sourced by David

wealth of Egypt, Cleopatra allegedly orchestrated the

Morris, the coral is responsibly acquired.

most expensive dinner by serving a plate containing only

The final design variation in the collection sees

a large pearl, which she then crushed and drank down

delicate, textured rose cut diamonds, central to David

with wine.

Morris jewellery design, beautifully juxtaposed between

David Morris, the London jeweller, has become

rows of modern brilliant-cut diamonds in 18ct white gold.

synonymous amongst connoisseurs and collectors as one

By bringing back this antique and almost forgotten rose

of very few international jewellery houses still able to

cut and infusing it with a modern twist, David Morris

source these rare and magnificent commodities and

shows its passion and love for tradition and the craft of

create the unique and exceptional designs for which

jewellery.

they’ve become renowned. With such a passion for these gems, CEO and

Petite Palm

principal designer Jeremy Morris sought to conceive a collection that would still appeal to the natural pearl devotee, while at the same time being more accessible. Utilising cultured Akoya pearls as one of the design elements, David Morris has created the Pearl Rose collection in homage to the ‘Queen of Gems’. Celebrated for their beauty and rich lustre, Japanese Akoya pearls are perfectly spherical with rich colour, ranging from white, cream and pink to silver pink. The full collection consists of eight exclusive designs of rings, bangles, earrings and a necklace, each of which is available in three different materials and each of which incorporates a row of delicate central stones firmly nestled between two rows of sparkling brilliant-cut diamonds. e collection comprises all organic elements, each one utilised in jewellery design since times of antiquity. is technique of channel setting them between rows of diamonds brings them up to date and results in a style that is contemporary and striking while remaining easy to wear.

Following the release of the exotic Palm collection in 2013, David Morris has evolved the Petite Palm – a more accessible and vividly coloured design that perfectly captures the essence of the tranquil and award-winning gardens of England at the beginning of summertime. Starting from £9,900 and crafted from either 18ct white or rose gold, this delicate and feminine collection comprises seven exclusive asymmetric designs: single or double flower rings, single or two-part drop earrings and a necklace which was launched to coincide with Doha Watches and Jewellery Show 2017. A perfectly matching sautoir necklace and bracelet complete the floral arrangement. To mirror the array of colours found in nature, each piece is expertly set with white diamonds and a variety of semi-precious gemstones: majestic purple amethyst, regal pink rubellite, luxurious green tourmaline and piercing blue aquamarine. Subtle white mother-of-pearl, sleek black onyx and traditional all-diamond versions provide a demure alternative.

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Miss Daisy earrings

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Miss Daisy tiara

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Miss Daisy ring

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Petite Palm necklace - white gold & diamonds in white gold

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Petite Palm double earrings - white gold & diamonds in white gold

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Petite Palm ring - white gold, tourmaline & diamonds in white gold

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Petite Palm earrings - white gold, amethysts & diamonds in white gold

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All variations feature a brilliant-cut central diamond with

By resurrecting this almost forgotten cut and infusing it

micro-set diamonds surrounding each individual leaf. e

with a modern twist, David Morris shows its passion for

all-diamond versions utilise marquise and brilliant-cut

the tradition and craft of jewellery in a truly feminine new

stones of superlative quality and clarity to form a luscious

collection.

array of foliage. Petite Palm forms part of David Morris’s feminine English

Arrival in Paris with a new architecturally inspired

garden narrative, cleverly combining the palm leaf’s

boutique on Rue Saint-Honoré

symbol of peace and victory with David Morris’s worldwide reputation for creating fine jewellery with a

David Morris is a synonym of design for more that five

unique design twist.

decades. His creations and esthetics are of exceptional quality and he redefines in a unique way fine jewellery in

Rose Cut Forever

every single aspect. In the heart of historical Paris near Place Vendôme, at the centre of fine jewellery-making,

Born as a token of love in 2003, the Rose Cut collection is

lies Rue Saint-Honoré, a street of chic Parisian fashion and

a celebration of life: memorable events, happy moments,

on-trend luxury items. It is at this prestigious address that

a promise, an anniversary. But always a declaration of

David Morris, the London Jeweller, has chosen to launch

everlasting love. Launching in 2016, the new Rose Cut

its second European store, outside of its main home on

Forever collection is a bold and contemporary diffusion of

Bond Street in London.

its predecessor that builds upon and reinforces the

Established in London in 1962, and defined by an

original design concept.

avant-garde sense of sophistication, David Morris’

Whilst love might be unconditional and eternal, it takes

creations ooze glamour and refined quintessentially British

on many different forms, whether a fierce all-consuming

air. Fine craftsmanship is still incredibly important to the

passion or the sweet tenderness of a budding romance.

house and with a strong desire to delve deeper into the

Rose Cut Forever is the graceful reminder that love is a

visual aesthetic that represents it, the London Jeweller

multitude of different facets, like the eponymous

commissioned Franco-American designer Eugène Brunell

diamond, all to be cherished and embraced. It is

to capture the spirit of the brand and interpret it

reinforced by a graceful yet dramatic extension of the

architecturally in its debut Parisian residence located in

facets in the 18ct gold setting, each angled and polished

the city’s new luxury quarter.

to perfection.

Conceived as a sleek yet luxurious space, and laid out

The addition of the asymmetric halo of micro-set

over two inviting levels with a floor-to-ceiling glass façade,

diamonds that encompasses each piece symbolises the

the boutique’s contemporary design is in contrast to the

meaning of forever in the most simple of ways. A circle,

gold leaf, wood-panelled interiors of the London flagship.

with no beginning and no end. Continuous and timeless

With bespoke furnishings of light woods and burnt sienna

beauty.

leather, the setting perfectly reflects the glamour that

Named after its resemblance to the petals of a rose bud,

defines David Morris fine jewellery.

the rose-cut style forms the foundation of David Morris’s

In a pioneering move to redefine what fine jewellery

signature range of jewellery. Introduced early in 16th

means to a modern luxury society, and contrary to the

century India, the beauty of a rose-cut diamond lies in its

traditional belief held by jewellers that prized treasures

many facets, giving a translucent appearance.

are to be concealed behind closed doors, the innovative

Available in 18ct rose gold (white gold on request) and

brand briefed the designer to specifically focus on

with a starting price of £7,500, the collection comprises

creating an immersive experience for its clients. In its true

ten exclusive designs: single or double asymmetric rings

spirit of joyfulness and ‘bon-vivance’, David Morris tasked

and earrings, a cross-over bangle, sautoir necklace and

Brunell with creating an amiable space where clients, old

chain necklaces and bracelet.

and new, can comfortably peruse the jeweller’s nest

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Rose Cut Forever - rose gold & diamonds

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Rose Cut Faceting

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Rose Cut Forever - Original drawing

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Rose Cut Forever - rose gold & diamonds

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The David Morris flagship store in Paris

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creations in an equally as impressive location conveniently

| Haute Joaillerie The Doha flagship store

positioned outside the renowned Hôtel Costes. In order to achieve this, Brunell heightened the façade by

When we talk about David Morris we all know that he is

inclusion of vertical prismatic stripes in translucent copper,

internationally renowned for creating breathtaking

spanning both floors. Inside the boutique, floating stone

jewellery of flawless design, since the legacy of David

stairs lead to a VIP salon and the backlit handrail of the

Morris, the London Jeweller, is truly compelling.

staircase is made of the nest alabaster. These elements

Established over 50 years ago and family-owned for two

are fully revealed behind softly curved full-height extra

generations, David Morris is a jeweller of proud heritage

clear glass panels.

that has stayed true to its origins of creating fine jewellery

The east and west walls are upholstered with fabric made

with a creative design ‘twist’ and of utilising only the nest,

of metallic fibres, tinted copper and “chocolate” to add

most valuable gemstones in a glorious array of colours.

an extra sense of sumptuousness to the boutique. On the

Located on London’s fabled Bond Street, the flagship

east side, elongated oval mirrors straddle thin niches

boasts the rarity of an on-site atelier where artisans

highlighted by dramatic illuminations.

skillfully produce precious creations.

Alabaster floor-to-ceiling doors on the ground floor

Jeremy Morris took over the helm of David Morris from

conceal a facetted rock crystal lining inside their edges -

his father in 2003. Having studied fine art in London, with

visible only when the doors are opened adding an extra

5 years apprenticing with illustrious Place Vendôme

element of surprise for all those who enter the stunning

jewellers and a stint with an Antwerp diamond supplier,

boutique. is is perfectly complemented by full-length

Jeremy Morris was perfectly positioned to take over as

mirrors found on the backs of these doors, which are also

Managing Director and principal designer and steer the

revealed when in their opened position.

company into the new millennium. He believes that the

The furnishings are equally as impressive and one is able

attraction to David Morris jewellery lies not only in the

to appreciate just how much thought the British brand has

fabulous and original designs but also in the very gems

invested in its new aesthetic, ensuring that each and every

that are handpicked for each creation. His inspiration

detail of its most recent residence serves to immerse its

comes from all over the world and focuses on the beauty

clientele further into the David Morris brand and the

of the stones retaining their inherent character.

experience it conveys. For this reason, the idea of facets

In a very exciting year for David Morris, 2017 sees the

and reflections is echoed in the designs for the carpets,

February opening of a stand-alone boutique in The Pearl,

which are sprinkled with softly coloured crystal patterns. e

Doha with Middle East partners Ali Bin Ali. With

furniture includes pieces made with solid walnut, using

independent boutiques in the Dubai Mall, Dubai and the

traditional joinery techniques, as well as leather,

Galleria Mall, Abu Dhabi, this further enhances David

handcrafted patinated steel and some veneer details in

Morris’ presence in the region and comes after their

millenary marsh oak.

annual showing at the Doha Jewellery & Watches

Research was done to find special rose-tinted copper

Exhibition.

platings for the frames of the jewellery showcases as well

A six-day exhibition held annually in Doha, Qatar, this

as other architectural details, using a process that

show is amongst the most exclusive in the world for

employs gold to soften the tone of the copper.

connoisseurs to purchase fine jewellery and unique

Jeremy Morris, Managing Director of the London Jeweller

pieces. With this new boutique David Morris reaches his

said: “The aesthetic of our boutique in Paris was an

international customers and welcomes them in a unique

opportunity for us to create a new architectural

boutique designed to showcase the very best of the

environment for the brand, with a keen eye for detail and

internationally renowned brand. It creates a prestigious

a specific focus on the innovative use of fine materials and

salon that shows to us all the esthetics and the DNA of

colours, perfectly mimicking part of our own house’s

David Morris.

DNA.”

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The David Morris flagship store in Doha

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TWIST YOUR TIME T H E N E W S E R P E N T I B Y B V LG A R I

“The finest love stories are those that endure and are constantly reinvented. This is an art, a rare ability that is admirably mastered by la Femme who is brilliantly capable of handling such transformations. A hairstyle, a new garment, an accessory – and suddenly a woman becomes another while losing nothing of herself. In the animal kingdom, the serpent does likewise. A symbol of eternal regeneration, it constantly sheds its skin and takes on another, like the SERPENTI.”

B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

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Twist your time! Dressed with karung and customizable

mother-of-pearl, finely lacquered and sunburst guilloché

without limits. the new way of wearing serpenti.

27mm dials. In a subtle jewellery detail setting a Bulgari signature, a cabochon-cut rubellite adorns the winding

The finest love stories are those that endure and

crown of these watches driven by quartz Calibre B033.

are constantly reinvented. This is an art, a rare ability that is admirably mastered by la Femme who is brilliantly

More than 300 variations for a unique Serpenti

capable of handling such transformations. A hairstyle, a new garment, an accessory – and suddenly a woman

In an ultimate touch of refinement, the client will

becomes another while losing nothing of herself. In the

also be able to choose her favourite case and dial, so as

animal kingdom, the serpent does likewise. A symbol of

to entirely personalize her Serpenti. Bulgari has

eternal regeneration, it constantly sheds its skin and takes

developed an app designed to facilitate the

on another, like the Serpenti.

customization process. Available in a selected number of

After interpreting the figure of the reptile in

brand boutiques, it will enable an enthusiast to literally

countless different ways, consistently at the crossroads

“compose” her personal Serpenti by means of this app

between goldsmithing and High Jewellery, Bulgari now

installed on a tablet, by choosing the case, dial, the

reaches beyond its customary universe to propel the

gemsetting and potentially the strap. The client will also

eternally youthful Serpenti towards a new field of

be able to have an engraving of her choice on the

expression, as the icon adopts double wrap-around straps

caseback. In all, the palette of combinations and colour

made from multicolour exotic leathers.

variations comprises a total of 312 variations, providing

A natural and legitimate continuation of the

plenty of scope to enable each woman to define her own

Serpenti saga, these new straps are made from Karung, a

Serpenti and make it virtually unique and always madly

non-venomous water snake whose particularly thin and

desirable.

supple skin features scales mid-way between those of a lizard or the more customary snake variation. Precious,

Serpenti changes things up with a beauty that is runs far more than skin deep: the love story lives on…

more original and more exclusive, it calls for a meticulous tanning process, after which the leather is extremely

The new SERPENTI TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

pleasant to wear, soft and smooth. On the surface, the colouring with natural pigments, in vivid, luminous shades

Case, dial and strap

and beautifully matching the dial colours, is further

Curved 27mm case in steel and pink gold, brilliant-cut

enhanced by a varnish lending a subtle gloss.

diamonds set on the bezel according to the versions, dials i n v a r i o u s c o l o u r v a r i a t i o n s , b l a c k l a c q u e re d ,

Instant metamorphosis

mother-of-pearl or sunburst guilloché depending on the versions, water-resistant to 50m.

This new contemporary version boldly flaunts its polyvalent nature. Ours is an age of speed and change.

Double wrap-around strap in Karung leather available in

Serpenti can be transformed in a heartbeat thanks to an

five different colours (black, red, white, green, chestnut

extremely practical fastening system making the straps

brown), easily interchangeable and fitted with a pin

easily interchangeable by the wearer on all models, those

buckle;

with a steel or pink gold case, with or without diamonds.

Double wrap-around calfskin strap available in six different

While each watch comes with two straps – in Karung or

colours (sapphire blue, agate white, ruby red, sandy

calfskin – in the client’s choice of colours, a wide range of

beige, black, emerald green).

additional shades is available on Bulgari boutiques, where the new Serpenti will be available as of May.

Movement

The nuances will be perfectly coordinated with the

Bulgari personalised B033 quartz movement.

colours – black, red, green or white – of the

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NOIR&BLANC Photography by Volodymyr Leshchenko / Shutterstock. com | Signed model release on file with Shutterstock, Inc.

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Jewels we

Love At the Jewellery Historian we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose, enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life, with jewellery, designed by the most talented jewellery designers.

All fashion photography by Chaletgirl / Shutterstock. com | Signed model release on file with Shutterstock, Inc. All jewellery photos used with permission from the jewellery brands.

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BOUCHERON

DAVID MORRIS

GUMUCHIAN

YOKO LONDON

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HARRY KOTLAR

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BUTANI

HARRY KOTLAR

YOKO LONDON

BOUCHERON GUMUCHIAN

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FABERGÃ&#x2030;

LYDIA COURTEILLE

ILIAS LALAOUNIS

ORNELLA IANNUZZI

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DJULA

GILAN

BORGIONI

DVANI

LE VIAN

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ORNELLA IANNUZZI

ENTICE

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;DEZEN BY PAYAL SHAH

GILAN

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| MILLEFEUILLES

U E F E L

S E L L I

ucas L y b n electio

2084, La fin du monde Boualem Sansal L’Abistan, immense empire, tire son nom du prophète Abi, «délégué» de Yölah sur terre. Son système est fondé sur l’amnésie et la soumission au dieu unique. Toute pensée personnelle est bannie, un système de surveillance omniprésent permet de connaître les idées et les actes déviants. Officiellement, le peuple unanime vit dans le bonheur de la foi sans questions. Le personnage central, Ati, met en doute les certitudes imposées. Il se lance dans une enquête sur l’existence d’un peuple de renégats, qui vit dans des ghettos, sans le recours de la religion… Boualem Sansal s’est imposé comme une des voix majeures de la littérature contemporaine. Au fil d’un récit débridé, plein d’innocence goguenarde, d’inventions cocasses ou inquiétantes, il s’inscrit dans la filiation d’Orwell pour brocarder les dérives et l’hypocrisie du radicalisme religieux qui menace les démocraties. 288 pages, Gallimard

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Article 353 du code pénal Tanguy Viel Pour avoir jeté à la mer le promoteur immobilier Antoine Lazenec, Martial Kermeur vient d'être arrêté par la police. Au juge devant lequel il a été déféré, il retrace le cours des événements qui l'ont mené là : son divorce, la garde de son fils Erwan, son licenciement et puis surtout, les miroitants projets de Lazenec. Il faut dire que la tentation est grande d'investir toute sa prime de licenciement dans un bel appartement avec vue sur la mer. Encore faut-il qu'il soit construit. Tanguy Viel est né à Brest en 1973. 176 pages, Éditions de Minuit

Loin du corps Léa Simone Allegria Adrienne vit parmi les œuvres du Musée du Louvre. Quand elle devient mannequin au hasard d’une rue de Paris, son monde s’inverse : de spectatrice du beau, elle devient objet. À la fois curieuse et sarcastique, elle fait du milieu de la mode son nouveau terrain d'investigation. Elle apprend à être muse. Comment apprivoiser son image ? À moins qu’elle ne soit qu’un reflet des désirs des autres. Une vague image qui l’éloigne de ses passions, de son identité, et même de son propre corps. Lea Simone Allegria a 29 ans. Loin du corps est son premier roman. 272 pages, Seuil

Retourner à la mer Raphaël Haroche Un colosse, vigile dans les salles de concert, et une strip-teaseuse, au ventre couturé de cicatrices, partagent une histoire d’amour… L’employé d’un abattoir sauve un veau de la mort et le laisse seul dans l’usine fermée pour le week-end. À sa sortie de l'hôpital, un homme part se reposer dans le Sud avec sa vieille maman. Trois adolescents livrés à eux-mêmes entendent un bruit inconnu qui pourrait bien être celui de la fin du monde. Tous ces personnages prennent vie en quelques phrases, suivent leur pente et se consument. Il suffit d’un contact, peau contre peau, d’un regard, d’une caresse, pour racheter l’humanité. Raphaël Haroche nous décrit dans un style fin et épuré les états d’âme d’êtres malmenés. Les questions qu’il pose au lecteur sont profondes, inattendues, parfois drôles ; elles sont toutefois traitées de telle manière que l’étrangeté ou le tragique touchent au poétique, au sensoriel. 176 pages, Gallimard

Vous êtes une maison d’édition et vous souhaitez faire découvrir vos auteurs francophones à nos lecteurs ? Veuillez nous contacter par courriel (info@jewelleryhistorian.com).

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RIVER

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Block Floral

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ADDRESS BOOK ARTISTAR JEWELLERY 2017

FABERGÉ

MATHON PARIS

www.artistarjewels.com

www.faberge.com

www.mathon-paris.com

BORGIONI

GALLIMARD

METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

www.borgionis.com

www.gallimard.fr

www.metmuseum.org

BOUCHERON

GRAND PALAIS

PICCHIOTTI

www.boucheron.com

www.grandpalais.fr

www.picchiotti.it

BULGARI

GILAN

SOTHEBY’S

www.bulgari.com

www.gilan.com

www.sothebys.com

BUTANI

GUMUCHIAN

YOKO LONDON

www.butani.com

www.gumuchian.com

www.yokolondon.com

CARRERA Y CARRERA

HARRY KOTLAR

www.carreraycarrera.com

www.harrykotlar.com

DAVID MORRIS

ILIAS LALAOUNIS

www.davidmorris.com

www.iliaslalaounis.eu

DJULA

L´DEZEN BY PAYAL SHAH

www.djula.fr

www.ldezen.com

DINNY HALL

LE VIAN

www.dinnyhall.com

www.levian.com

ÉDITIONS DE MINUIT

LYDIA COURTEILLE

www.leseditionsdeminuit.fr

www.lydiacourteille.com

ÉDITIONS SEUIL

ORNELLA IANNUZZI

www.seuil.com

www.ornella-iannuzzi.com

ENTICE

MAGERIT JOYAS

www.entice.in

www.mageritjoyas.com

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