JEWELLERY HISTORIAN, #25 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

FACES OF DIVERSITY

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier welcomes you with his

Douglas Mcdonnell is definitely the dreams

“Editor’s Letter” and shares his vision about

catcher. He approaches jewellery with a different

diversity.

vision, an aesthetic way whom nobody has

THE PRECIOUS DREAMS CATCHER

dared to see, imagine or come to understand.

ARTISTAR 2018

Artistar Jewels 2018 Call for Entries is now open

Irish fine jewellers McCaul Goldsmiths are

and the Jewellery Historian a proud media

renowned for creating elegant jewellery that

partner to this event.

accentuates the curves and contours of the

THE ESSENCE OF DESIGN

body.

THE MAGIC OF FARAH KHAN

PRECIOUS AUCTION

Farah Khan is not just a jewellery designer but

The Apollo and Artemis diamonds sold and

an artist of masterpieces and an orator of stories.

renamed. A follow-up of this precious auction.

Her creations are conceived in her over active imagination that allows her the freedom to make the impossible possible.

FINE JEWELS AUCTION

119

We visit theFine Jewels auction led by creations

This summer, at MATHON, luxury meets

by Michelle della Valle.

modernity, lacquer meets diamonds, and New

MYSTICAL PASSAGES

York meets Paris.

M E D I A PA RT N E R S

135

SANDRA BILOE

183

Discover the creative universe of one of the most

Eva Kountouraki shares with us her passion about

talented artists.

diamonds, the beauty of this legendary gemstone

BUY THE DIAMOND

with an innovative perspective.

143

187

Since 1907, three generations of expertise and

Lydia Courteille has adapted the mythical Garden of

craftsmanship have occupied the House of

Eden into her latest collection entitled ‘Fruits of my

Salamoon, flawlessly conceiving irreplaceable

Passion’. Precious stones meet a serpent to fully

masterpieces that forever stand the test of time.

encompass the tales of Adam and Eve.

PASSIONATE VISIONARY

EXPERTISE & CRAFTSMANSHIP

161

MAGIC OF JEWELLERY ILLUSTRATION

199

Discover the inspirational book by Jasmin Karger, an

La Châtelaine introduce you her first article with

absolute must for all jewellery designers and

advice on ways to wear a vintage or retro brooch

enthusiasts. A must have !

on an innovative way.

LA CHÂTELAINE

171

ULTIMATE FLUIDITY

211

The work of Nikos Koulis is a celebration of design.

Our fashion editorial this month focuses on texture,

Exquisite pieces with ethereal appeal, structured

shapes and... wind !

MIGHTY COLORS

forms with a very light, seamless flow enclosed in the resulting soul of the piece.

Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

Jewellery Historian www . jewelleryhistorian . com info @ jewelleryhistorian . com

FOUNDER | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) ASSOCIATE EDITOR | Christina Rodopoulou

CREATIVE DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE | Panayiotis Simopoulos GEMOLOGY EDITOR | Eva Kountouraki, G.G (GIA)

COVER | AS Inc. / Shutterstock. com

All material published in the digital and printed versions of the Jewellery Historian magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of the magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and brands, neither the publishers, editors, columnists, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” name and/or logo, may not be reproduced in any possible way without prior written consent of the founder of magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited. The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission. All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Jewellery Historian are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian web pages & magazine is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/logos/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or digital and print magazine belong to their owners. All third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned are trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. The full Terms & Conditions are available online at the website of the Jewellery Historian.

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ADDRESS BOOK

JEWELS WE LOVE

Each issue features exceptional artists and designers.

We handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose,

Here you can find how to learn more about them and

enabling you to add a sophisticated and elegant

to contact them.

touch to the most important moments of your life.

229

MILLEFEUILLES French is an amazing language and together we discover exceptional books in the language of Voltaire.

231

40 ans dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;histoire avec le Beit Haverim For this issue, MILLEFEUILLES i proud to celebrate the 40 years of history with the Beit Haverim of Paris.

241

SUMMER BREASE Summer is here and you will discover a quite amazing fashion editorial made in South France.

C A F E

B A R

E L A S I D O N

R E S T A U R A N T

1 7

A T H E N S

211 4007882 www.qbee.gr

Jewellery Historian

| EDITOR’S LETTER

The concept of diversity encompasses acceptance and like the rest. The other way was to be who I really wanted respect. It means understanding that each individual is to be. I chose to continue my life with my passions. When unique, and recognizing our individual differences. These we moved with my family to Athens, Greece, I joined a can be along the dimensions of race, ethnicity, gender, private french Catholic school. In less than six months I sexual orientation, socio-economic status, age, physical created with the precious support of the Catholic brothers abilities, religious beliefs, political beliefs, or other my first group, the “Tolerance and non-violence group” of ideologies. It is the exploration of these differences in a my school. That either was not easy, but I am proud for all safe, positive, and nurturing the work we made. Old school environment. It is about mates still say how important this understanding each other and group was for their lives, how it moving beyond simple tolerance helped them to accept who they to embracing and celebrating were. the rich dimensions of diversity Since that day I decided to fight contained within each individual. any kind of discrimination, to As an individual, I am proud that accept others as they were. Later my parents teach me to accept, as a student I joined an NGO respect and understand. But working with people living with everybody is not thinking and HIV/AIDS. At that time, before the acting the same way. arrival of HAART treatments, I It is certain that society the last was every day visiting people in decades and in particular the hospitals just to spend time with last years has progressed, but them, to talk with them, because many members of our their families didn’t want to have by Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier community hold onto self-hate any contact with them because G.G (GIA) and shame from an earlier era, of fear. I have stood by the with sometimes fatal consequences. To be honest I do not bedside of too many friends; kissing them a final farewell. understand how is still possible in 2017 some people to After all those years, HIV-related stigma and have so much hate still in their hearts and to have that discrimination still exists. It refers to prejudice, negative way of thinking. attitudes and abuse directed at people living with HIV and Promoting diversity is the first step not to just “tolerance,” AIDS. The consequences of stigma and discrimination are but towards true acceptance. The reality is somewhere in wide-ranging. Some people are shunned by family, peers our life we all go through struggles, problems and face and the wider community, while others face poor our weaknesses. We all want to keep our families safe, to treatment in healthcare and educational settings, erosion work, to live a happy life. This is why I cannot understand of their an an rights, and psychological damage. There people that do not accept LGBTQ+ rights. For years I are still many countries around the world that restrict the thought it was due to their background, but as I grow I entry, residence and stay of foreigners who are HIV believe that all this hate comes from the non ability to positive. accept themselves. Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn once said “It's an universal law-I am happy to see that many countries finally offer legal intolerance is the first sign of an inadequate education. An rights to the LGBTQ+ community. After all those years of ill-educated person behaves with arrogant impatience, oppression, discrimination and violence it was time to whereas truly profound education breeds humility.” I finally understand and accept that we are all equal. I would say that intolerance is a sign of ignorance. always thought we were all equal and never made any As an individual, I could publicly say that I always did and kind of discrimination. I never cared about your gender. I I will all fight for full equality, for respect, dignity and full believe that we are all different and all equal. acceptance. “History will have to record that the greatest But just because a group gains legal rights doesn’t mean tragedy of this period of social transition was not the that years of oppression wash away, especially since strident clamor of the bad people, but the appalling homophobia is still alive and flourishing. Being allowed to silence of the good people.” as said Martin Luther King, marry doesn’t immediately bring with it the ability to see Jr. As an individual I will not stay in silence. All those oneself as worthy of accepting anyone’s love, even their years, I chose to be with everyone that is discriminated, to own. This is the point where we, all citizens come in. We support any NGO or group that fights for human rights, for must do everything possible to accept and to promote full equality, diversity and acceptance. diversity. We must truly respect each individual and walk I believe everything starts from education and I believe hand by hand in the path of life. After all life is too short. educators are at the top of the list of those most likely to Growing I understood that I had two choices. The one was contribute to this change. To prepare students to accept not to accept diversity and who I was, not to accept that I diversity, to accept differences in culture, socio-economic loved design, opera, ballet, art and literature, and to be status, education, sexual orientation, and more, teachers,

FACES OF 8 DI V ERS ITY

Jewellery Historian

| EDITOR’S LETTER

in all levels, must follow training programs that will allow them becoming culturally competent. They must be equipped with the awareness, knowledge, and skills to work with younger generations. Universities are not excluded of the important role they have to fulfill. If you search for undergraduate or postgraduate “LGBTQ+ studies” in universities worldwide, you will see that only few universities and in really few countries offer them. Many universities say to accept diversity, to accept LGBTQ+ rights, but do not offer any related training. How many universities offer undergraduate or postgraduate programs in diversity and in LGBTQ+ studies ? They may be few, but most universities accept diversity only as a term and only on a certain level. This “Political correct diversity” is a rather shallow expression of tolerance and respect. Political correctness has been used so widely, I think its almost meaningless as a concept. What we need is honesty. The role of universities is to offer programs in exciting new areas of historical enquiry, giving a voice to those who throughout much of history have been denied one. They must train future generations in order to make our world truly tolerant and education is definitely the one that can contribute the most. As an intellectually curious person, I have a deep and persistent desire to learn and to know. This is why few years ago I decided to return to university as a student, in order to follow my intellectual curiosity and to focus on specific research areas. Some of you may wonder why I say all those. Some may think that all this has nothing to do with jewellery. All this has to do with human rights. The month of June was chosen for LGBTQ+ Pride Month to commemorate the Stonewall riots, which occurred at the end of June 1969. Almost half a century later, laws affecting LGBTQ+ people vary greatly by country or territory—everything from legal recognition of same-sex marriage or other types of partnerships, to the death penalty as punishment for same-sex romantic/sexual activity or identity. LGBTQ+ rights are not the same for all and are not a reality all over the world. People around the world still face violence and inequality—and sometimes torture, even execution— because of who they love, how they look, or who they are. Sexual orientation and gender identity are integral aspects of ourselves and should never lead to discrimination or abuse. Gay concentration camps are a reality, the death penalty too. All this must come to an end ! We must all understand that LGBTQ+ rights are human rights ! Regardless of where you live on this Earth, chances are you will eventually interact in some way with a culture that is different from your own. When most people think about culture, their first thoughts involve race or ethnicity. Culture goes far beyond that. In fact, we are all members of various cultural groups and our cultural identities interact and develop based on the influence of these memberships. Like most things that make you who you

are, the development of your cultural identity is an ongoing process. As we are exposed to different sets of beliefs and values, we may adopt other cultural beliefs that were not part of our original makeup. In this way, culture is dynamic and complex. In addition to race and ethnicity, our cultural orientations are influenced by gender, class, physical and mental abilities, sexual orientation, religious and spiritual beliefs, age, and much more. The individual is a complex mix of many cultural influences woven together. It is, therefore, impossible to define a person by a single cultural label. To further complicate matters, our cultural histories are filtered by individual psychological characteristics and experiences, ensuring that even those sharing cultural similarities are truly unique. The Jewellery Historian has a strong focus on design and craftsmanship, thereby promoting artists who aren't necessarily part of the latest trend, but whose body of work shows an affinity for quality and taste over a longer period of time. The main goal of our publication is to be a celebration of innovation and creativity, a publication about the talented artists and about the people that create exceptional jewellery and unique timepieces. We showcase artists and brands whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. With each issue we invite our readers to explore the stories of passionate people and the motivations behind their inspirational lifestyles. Each issue is a celebration of diversity, showing to our readers designers from different backgrounds, from different countries. Accepting people means you accept the reality of the other person. You may not like it, you may not prefer it, but at a deeper level, you are at peace with it. That alone is a blessing. And sometimes, your shift to acceptance can help things get better, for all. At the Jewellery Historian, we have an underlying belief in inclusion and diversity, which are fundamental to our culture and core values. We believe that no one should be discriminated against because of their differences, such as age, disability, ethnicity, gender, gender identity and expression, religion or sexual orientation. We believe an inclusive culture is good for business, fostering the creativity and innovation. It is fundamental that all people that work with us, can feel comfortable, be themselves and, as a result, be productive. We offer our support to NGOs and projects related to the fight against discrimination and that fully support equality and diversity. I would like to dedicate this issue to all LGBTQ+ communities around the world, to tell them to be proud of who they are, and to fight for their rights, not only in their countries, but around the globe. United we can be a force for change !

pride month

THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN IS A PROUD SUPPORTER OF HUMAN RIGHTS

Photo courtesy of ARTISTAR Â© ARTISTAR

Design & Creativity

ARTISTAR 2018 Artistar Jewels 2018 Call for Entries is now open

All the lights are shining on Artistar Jewels. The

collaboration with the Egyptian designer Reem Jano

fifth edition of the event with the protagonists of

Jewelry, winner of “De Liguoro” prize in the previous

contemporary jewelry will be on February 2018, during

edition. Moreover, the area will also be dedicated to

the Milan Fashion Week. The prestigious location of

three international special guests.

the historical Palazzo dei Giureconsulti is reconfirmed

On February 2018, during the Milan Fashion

as the context of the exhibition and the opening day

Week, the winners of the contest will be announced in

will be addressed to press and buyers.

Palazzo dei Giureconsulti.

More than 300 will be the one-of-a-kind creations

All the selected creations will be published in the

selected and exhibited for their high artistic value, for

volume Artistar Jewels 2018. The introductive texts will

the technical sperimentation, the innovative features

be curated by Eugenia Gadaleta, Fashion & Jewellery

and their strong emotional appeal and last but not

Communication Expert and communication teacher,

least for their stylistic research. Artistar Jewels is one

together with Maristella Campi – fashion and costume

of the successful events by Enzo Carbone and it’s an

journalist. Published by Logo Fausto Lupetti, the book

international showcase for accomplished artists and

will be available nationally and internationally: sold in

springboard for emerging creatives.

all the Italian libraries and in the main European cities

The jury made of experts that will have the duty of

and shipped to more than 5000 experts.

evaluating the creation is made of: Elisabetta

To take part in Artistar Jewels 2018 artists and

Barracchia, Director of Vogue Accessory and Creative

designers need to send the presentation to

Director of the Fashion Department of Vanity Fair;

info@artistarjewels.com. Further information and the

Maristella Campi, fashion and costume journalist,

complete announcement can be sound on the official

Gianni De Liguoro, founder and stylist of the bijoux

website Artistar.it /Artistarjewels.com and at the

brand De Liguoro and Guido Solari, founder and

website of the Jewellery Historian

owner of

(www.jewelleryhistorian.com) who is a proud media

Scuola orafa Ambrosiana di Milano via

Savona, 20 and Irina Slesareva, Chief Editor of

partner.

Jewellery Review Magazine and Creative Director of

Artistar Jewels is an international project aimed at

Russian Line Jewellery Contest.

highlighting the pluralism of the contemporary jewelry

The three winners will have the chance to

in its variety, able to show all its aesthetic beauty. The

participate for free in Artistar Jewels 2019 with special

initiatives include several features: the creation of a

contents in the book published in 2019. For the first

big show during the Fashion Week of Milan, the

time thirty creations will be protagonists of a special

communication on specialised magazines, a

show in a still top secret location.

prestigious publication, the realization of a

Furthermore, Artistar Jewels is carrying on with

photographic shooting and also the possibility of

the the collaboration with Scuola Orafa Ambrosiana of

selling on the e-commerce, awards and recognition

Milan, that will offer to a young designer the free

for the most worthy artists and distribution in

participation to Professional Goldsmithing course to

international concept stores and galleries.

learn the most important techniques creating several goldsmithing works.

The Jewellery Historian is a proud media partner

During the show there will be a special area that

for the 2018 edition.

will host the creation realized by De Liguoro maison in

EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

SOTHEBY’S MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND NOBLE JEWELS G E N E VA , 1 6 M a y 2 0 1 7

‘THE APOLLO & ARTEMIS DIAMONDS’ RENAMED

THE DIAMONDS SELL FOR A COMBINED TOTAL OF US$57,425,478 AND ARE RENAMED...

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Jewellery Historian

‘THE APOLLO BLUE’ is renamed “The Memory of Autumn Leaves”

‘THE ARTEMIS PINK’ is renamed “The Dream of Autumn Leaves”

Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond weighing 14.54 carats Internally Flawless, Type IIb

Fancy Intense Pink Diamond weighing 16.00 carats VVS2 clarity, Type IIa

US$42,087,302 / CHF41,862,500 / HK$327,731,674

US$15,338,176 / CHF 15,256,250 / HK$119,437,596

Estimate $ 38 – 50 million (CHF 38.1 – 50.2 million)

Estimate: $ 12.5 – 18 million (CHF 12.5 – 18.1 million)

Jewellery Historian

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

At Sotheby’s sale of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels in Geneva, ‘The Apollo and Artemis Diamonds’ became the most valuable earrings ever sold at auction, realising a

It has been a privilege for Sotheby's to be entrusted with the superb ‘Apollo Blue’ and ‘Artemis Pink’, which have now been renamed ‘The Memory of Autumn Leaves’ and ‘The Dream of Autumn Leaves’

combined total of US$57,425,478 / CHF 57,118,750 / HK$447,169,270. The diamonds, which were purchased by the same anonymous buyer, who renamed them ‘The Memory of Autumn Leaves’ (Fancy Vivid Blue diamond) and ‘The Dream of Autumn Leaves’ (Fancy Intense Pink diamond). Sold separately as individual lots: ‘The Memory of Autumn Leaves’   Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid Blue diamond weighing 14.54-carats US$42,087,302 / CHF41,862,500 / HK$327,731,674 ‘The Dream of Autumn Leaves’   Fancy Intense Pink diamond, weighing 16-carats US$15,338,176 / CHF 15,256,250 / HK$119,437,596 Speaking after the sale, David Bennett, Worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division and Chairman of Switzerland commented: "It has been a privilege for Sotheby's to be entrusted with the superb ‘Apollo Blue’ and ‘Artemis Pink’, which have now been renamed ‘The Memory of Autumn Leaves’ and ‘The Dream of Autumn Leaves’. The results from today’s sale – which saw more than 90 per cent of lots sold and three new world auction records – yet again underline the strong demand for top quality diamonds, gemstones and jewels. I am delighted that the stones will remain together as earrings. This has been a wonderful inaugural jewellery sale at Mandarin Oriental, Geneva which far exceeded expectations, with a total of over $150 million. We are greatly looking forward to the upcoming auction of Fine Jewels at Sotheby’s rue Diday in Geneva on the 1st of June.” OTHER NOTABLE RESULTS AUCTION RECORD FOR A FANCY INTENSE PURPLISH PINK DIAMOND  AUCTION RECORD PRICE PER-CARAT FOR A FANCY INTENSE PURPLISH PINK DIAMOND. LOT 371 - A rich and impressive diamond by Piaget weighing 7.04 carats.  Sold for: US$13,245,750 / CHF13,175,000 / HK$103,143,979 (Previous record set in November 1995 - US$6,038,496) Price per carat: $1,881,499 (Previous record set in April 2015 - US$1,089,792) (Estimate: US$8million – 12million / CHF 8,030,000 – 12,040,000) GEMS AND JEWELS FROM A SUPERB PRIVATE COLLECTION (LOT 272 – 326) A collection of the finest diamonds and gemstones, as well as signed jewels from the most desirable and sought-after Jewellery houses, doubled pre-sale estimates to realise a combined total of US$15,899,550 / CHF 15,814,625 / HK$123,808,982 and achieved an outstanding sell-through rate of 96%. LOT 326: Pear-shaped diamond ring, weighing 32.42 carats by Harry Winston which doubled its low estimate to realise US$3,330,288 /CHF3,312,500 / HK$ 25,932,784

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Jewellery Historian

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

LOT 315: Emerald and diamond ring by Harry Winston achieved five times its estimate

I am delighted that the stones will remain together as earrings. This has been a wonderful inaugural jewellery sale at Mandarin Oriental, Geneva which far exceeded expectations, with a total of over $150 million.

selling for US$929,465 /CHF924,500 / HK$ 7,237,693 LOT 318 and 319: Ruby and diamond brooch and ear clips by Van Cleef & Arpels which sold for a combined total of US$477,551 /CHF475,000/ HK$ 3,718,663 RUBY, DIAMOND AND ONYX BRACELET, LACLOCHE (LOT 374) Rare ruby, onyx and diamond bracelet, circa 1925, soared above estimate to realise US$748,498 / CHF 744,500 / HK$5,828,516. JADEITE, ONYX, RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDANT/BROOCH, CARTIER, CIRCA 1925 (LOT 362) Sold for US$ 374,500 / CHF 372,500 / HK$2,916,215 more than double the high estimate. From the ‘golden era’ of Cartier’s production, this pendant/brooch was formerly in the collection of Mona, Countess von Bismarck (1897 – 1983). About Sotheby’s Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art since 1744. Sotheby’s became the first international auction house when it expanded from London to New York (1955), the first to conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India (1992) and France (2001), and the first international fine art auction house in China (2012). Today, Sotheby’s presents auctions in 10 different salesrooms, including New York, London, Hong Kong and Paris, and Sotheby’s BidNow program allows visitors to view all auctions live online and place bids from anywhere in the world. Sotheby’s offers collectors the resources of Sotheby’s Financial Services, the world’s only full-service art financing company, as well as the collection advisory services of its subsidiary, Art Agency, Partners. Sotheby’s presents private sale opportunities in more than 70 categories, including S|2, the gallery arm of Sotheby's Global Fine Art Division, and two retail businesses, Sotheby’s Diamonds and Sotheby’s Wine. Sotheby’s has a global network of 80 offices in 40 countries and is the oldest company listed on the New York Stock Exchange (BID).

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Jewellery Historian

LOT 318 (photo) and 319

LOT 315 Emerald and diamond ring by Harry Winston achieved five times its

Ruby and diamond brooch and ear clips by Van Cleef & Arpels which sold for a combined total of US$477,551 /CHF475,000/ HK$ 3,718,663

LOT 374

LOT 371

Rare Lacloche ruby, onyx and diamond

Sold US$13,245,750 / CHF 13,175,000

bracelet, circa 1925, soared above estimate to

(Estimate CHF 8,030,000 - 12,040,000)

realise US$748,498 / CHF 744,500 / HK$5,828,516.

New auction record for a Fancy Intense Purplish Pink diamond

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

estimate selling for US$929,465 /CHF924,500 / HK$ 7,237,693

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

LOT 372 Important diamond ring weighing 21.60 carats, Van Cleef & Arpels Sold US$2,606,422 / CHF 2,592,500 (Estimate CHF 1,610,000 - 2,010,000 )

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Jewellery Historian

LOT 363A Important Fancy Vivid Blue diamond ring weighing 3.32 carats Sold US$6,798,815 / CHF 6,762,500 (Estimate CHF 6,055,000 - 8,070,000 )

Jewellery Historian “J E W E L L E R Y I S A R T ” C A M P A I G N The Jewellery Historian has a strong focus on design and

muscle of others. At the Jewellery Historian we want to

craftsmanship, thereby promoting artists who aren't

work with all brands, from the small artisan to the large

necessarily part of the latest trend, but whose body of

jewellery group, because we believe that if we work

work shows an affinity for quality and taste over a longer

united, we can raise awareness of jewellery design as a

period of time. The main goal of our publication is to be a

form of creative expression, which will benefit our

celebration of innovation and creativity, a publication

"business community". We love to work together, support

about the talented artists and about the people

each other and make the jewellery industry a true global

that create exceptional jewellery and unique timepieces.

community.

We showcase artists and brands whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. With each issue

The Jewellery Historian is a bimonthly publication,

we invite our readers to explore the stories of passionate

founded in 2014 by Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier. With a

people and the motivations behind their inspirational

passion for knowledge and critical inquiry, while

lifestyles.

searching new and innovative ways of delivering information that can resonate long after publication,

For us all at the Jewellery Historian, our main mission is to

combined to a uniquely powerful visual and textual

educate, inspire and to promote jewellery & timepieces

storytelling, Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier decided to

designers,

the expertise and vision of famous

l a u n c h t h e J e w e l l e r y H i s t o r i a n , t h e f i r s t

international maisons and talented young designers with

free online magazine exclusively focused on jewellery &

the goal of raising the awareness of jewellery & watch

timepieces. He has been serving as the magazine's

design as a form of creative expression.

publisher, editor-in-chief and creative director ever since.

For this reason, all visitors of our website and social media

The Jewellery Historian as an international independently

had the chance to discover during spring a campaign

published magazine offers a unique perspective on the

created and designed by the Jewellery Historian in order

best new and established talent in the

to invite the highest numbers of visitors to discover a

jewellery, timepieces and luxury goods business. It is a

unique universe, the creative universe of the most

magazine for connoisseurs and people who love not only

talented jewellery designers. After all, luxury is not an

jewellery & timepieces, but mainly design and unique

industry, but a global language.

craftsmanship, and is today considered by many decision makers & connoisseurs as the "Best kept secret in the world of luxury".

Today the jewellery industry is as dynamic as it is fast growing. Consequential changes are under way, both in

As a digital magazine & a limited edition book, the

consumer behavior as well as in the industry itself.

Jewellery Historian has definitely a uniquely powerful

Jewellery players canâ€™t simply do business as usual

visual and textual storytelling, which combined to a

and expect to thrive; they must be alert and responsive to

minimal and clean design offers to readers from around

important trends and developments or else risk being left

the globe a unique reading experience.

behind by more agile competitors. In this competitive industry, every jewellery brand needs to strengthen and differentiate its brands through unique, distinctive designs. This is hard especially for young designers and brands that don't have the marketing

Jewellery is art

THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN IS A PROUD SUPPORTER OF CREATIVITY

open your heart to creativity

THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN IS A PROUD SUPPORTER OF CREATIVITY

feel the color

THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN IS A PROUD SUPPORTER OF CREATIVITY

EXCEPTIONNAL AUCTION

SOTHEBYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FINE JEWELS G E N E VA , J U N E 1 , 2 0 1 7

Fine Jewels auction led by creations by Michelle della Valle

DISCOVER FABULOUS JEWELLERY BY THE DISCREET CREATOR

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Jewellery Historian

Emerald, ruby and diamond bracelet   Featuring a drop-shaped carved emerald and pavé-set with cabochon rubies within a frame of brilliant-cut diamonds Estimate: CHF 8,500 – 12,500 / USD 8,000-12,000 LOT SOLD 26,250 CHF

Jewellery Historian

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On June 1, 2017 we had the honor to see at Sotheby’s Geneva during

“Perhaps the most important part of della Valle’s design vocabulary –

the auction of Fine Jewels exceptional jewellery. The sale was

and where his creative genius is immediately recognisable – is his use

definitely led by a captivating selection of jewellery creations by one

of colour”.- Amber Michelle, Michele della Valle, Jewels and Myths

of the most original and creative Jewellery designers of our time: Michele della Valle.

INSPIRED BY NATURE: FLORA AND FAUNA

Comprising 82 lots, the group of creations is a joyful and vibrant

Michele della Valle’s distinctive style takes its inspiration from nature,

reflection of the Geneva-based Italian designer’s unique and

and this is evident in many of his most delightful pieces. From the

exuberant style. His unabashed celebration of colour and form

intricate detail of a brooch in the form of a saffron flower to the strong

provides the perfect accessories for the season ahead.

yet delicate petals of a floral-design necklace, his Jewellery captures the exuberance of nature.

“His pieces celebrate the wonder of colour; gemstones are juxtaposed against each other in a mosaicked kaleidoscope of

The beauty of nature and Michele della Valle’s ability to bring it to life

dazzling brilliance...” - Amber Michelle, Michele della Valle, Jewels

is also evidenced by his pieces featuring animals, which often feature

and Myths

movement built into their intricate shapes. Bejewelled snakes, exotic birds and other bright, vivacious creatures reveal the playful side of

Describing the collection, David Bennett, Worldwide Chairman of

this lover of opera who, having had early training as a dramatic tenor,

Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division, said, “One of the most

has always had a keen eye for the theatrical.

original and creative contemporary jewellery designers, Michele della Valle transforms stories, daydreams and fairytales into bold,

“The delicate wing of a butterfly, the exotic shape of a saltwater fish

imaginative creations. It is a great pleasure to be presenting a

and the sinewy snake all come alive from the play of light and colour

selection of his wonderfully evocative pieces in June, at the launch of

brought forward by the gems.”- Amber Michelle, Michele della Valle,

Sotheby’s Geneva’s brand new auction series, Fine Jewels.”

Jewels and Myths

The sale of Fine Jewels on 1 June was the first of a new series of

At the Jewellery Historian we are honored to introduce you some of

regular sales, to be held by Sotheby’s in its location at 2, rue

the exceptional jewellery creations of Michelle della Valle we saw

François-Diday in Geneva. Alongside the huge success of Sotheby’s

during the auction at Sotheby’s Geneva.

existing sales of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, the Fine Jewels sales will offer collectors new and exciting opportunities to acquire beautiful and rare pieces across a broad price range. MICHELE DELLA VALLE: DISCREET CREATOR OF FABULOUS JEWELS Italian-born Michele della Valle has been designing Jewellery since the age of 14 and began his formal career in Rome, with Fürst Jewellers – then representative of Harry Winston. He went on to open his own workshop 1978, collaborating, among others, with Bulgari on special commissions, cementing a reputation among the country’s film stars and opera singers. In 1987, della Valle moved to Geneva and launched the line of Jewellery which now bears his name. Favouring discretion over personal notoriety, he lets his creations speak for themselves, saying “My designs are cheerful, never dramatic. I never forget that they are meant to bring joy, to beautify the wearer.” VIBRANT COLOUR Arguably the defining characteristic of Michele della Valle’s signature pieces is their rich and abundant colour. Daring to experiment, he combines precious stones with more unassuming yet visually arresting gems. His creations are renowned for their bold and bright hues, sometimes in unusual juxtaposition but always crisp and well-defined.

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

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Jewellery Historian

Gem set and diamond bracelet, ‘Perroquet’   Designed as a line of parrots, their wings and tails set with cabochon sapphires, rubies and emeralds Estimate: CHF 5,500 – 8,500 / USD 5,000 – 8,000 LOT SOLD. 20,000 CHF

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

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Jewellery Historian

Coral, emerald, enamel and diamond bangle, ‘Fragole’   Of strawberry design, the fruits carved in coral, the leaves pavé-set with emeralds, the flowers and stems set with diamonds Estimate: CHF 15,500 – 20,500 / USD 15,000 – 20,000 LOT SOLD 21,250

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

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Jewellery Historian

Emerald, tsavorite and diamond necklace, ‘Ivy’   Of foliate design, pavé-set with circular-cut tsavorites, alternating with gold motifs set with oval emeralds Estimate: CHF 31,000 – 51,000 / USD 30,000 – 50,000 LOT SOLD 68,750 CHF

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

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Jewellery Historian

Purple sapphire, enamel and diamond brooch, ‘Saffron’ Pavé-set with purple sapphires, the pistils applied with red enamel and embellished with brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow tint Estimate: CHF 15,500 – 25,500 / USD 15,500 – 25,500 LOT SOLD 47,500 CHF

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Jewellery Historian

Sapphire, ruby and diamond brooch, ‘Blue Marlin’ The head and fins pavé-set with sapphires and diamonds, the tongue embellished with a cabochon ruby Estimate: CHF 3,500 – 5,500 / USD 3,000 – 5,500 LOT SOLD. 7,500 CHF

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

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Jewellery Historian

Gem set and diamond necklace, ‘Palette’ Set with tourmaline, amethyst, aquamarine, heliodor and peridot Estimate: CHF 25,500 – 35,500 / USD 25,000 – 35,000 LOT SOLD 50,000 CHF

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

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Jewellery Historian

Gem-set, enamel and diamond necklace, ‘Anemoni’   Set with sapphires, pink sapphires and rubies, along with black diamonds Estimate: CHF 25,500 – 35,500 / USD 25,000 – 35,000 LOT SOLD 47,500 CHF

| EXCEPTIONAL AUCTION

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The art of creativity

Douglas Mcdonnell INTERVIEW

The Precious dreams catcher B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

Douglas Mcdonnell is definitely the dreams catcher. He approaches jewellery with a different vision, an aesthetic way whom nobody has dared to see, imagine or come to understand. Aesthetic may qualify a person concerned with beauty or the appreciation of beauty, or even the person giving or the product designed to give pleasure through beauty. But it can also be a set of principles underlying the work of a particular artist or artistic movement. In the case of Douglas Mcdonnell, he is definitely an artist concerned with beauty, creating jewellery with high aesthetics that give us pleasure through beauty. He captures our dreams and make them true. The Jewellery Historian is honored to introduce you his work.

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The word aesthetic can be an adjective and a noun. It may qualify a person concerned with beauty or the appreciation of beauty, or even the person giving or the product designed to give pleasure through beauty. But it can also be a set of principles underlying the work of a particular artist or artistic movement. In the case of Douglas Mcdonnell, he is definitely an artist concerned with beauty, creating jewellery with high aesthetics that give us pleasure through beauty. Douglas Mcdonnell is definitely one of the most talented artists and designers of his generation. At the Jewellery Historian we are honored that he accepted to answer to some of our questions and to introduce his work in this issue. Tell us about yourself, including what you do and how you got there. My name is Douglas McDonnell I'm 24 years of age and I live and work in Sydney Australia. I started out as a jewellers apprentice in Western Australia purely by chance, I had always loved art at school and was good with my hands so when the opportunity arose as an apprentice jeweller I applied and was lucky enough to be accepted. I now work for Musson jewellers in Sydney who are one of the best and biggest jewellers in Australia. How did you decided to be a jewellery designer ? For most of my career I have been on the bench learning the craft of being a manufacturing jeweller but have always had a passion for design. About 4 years ago the company I was working for in Western Australia gave a lot of creative freedom to there staff. Anybody was aloud and encouraged to come up with designs and if they fit in with the companies brand they would be produced. Ever since then I have fell in love with jewellery design and am continuously trying to hone my skills as a designer. What do you like most about being a jewellery designer? The creative freedom and glory. It's a double edged sword, No matter how well a piece is made it wont sell if no one likes it.

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Which is the artistic or historical period you consider a great source of inspiration. Art nouveau is my greatest source of inspiration. Which are your favourite materials? Which materials and techniques your favour? Pearls are my favourite materials to work with, If you find a pearl with great lustre it can be magical and will always make it the hero of a piece if given the chance. Australia produces the greatest source of south sea pearls but the Tahitian pearls are my favourite. Are men more open-minded about wearing jewellery than they used to be? I definitely think men are more open to wearing jewellery then ever before. I think there's a huge gap in the market for male jewellery and I plan to capitalize on it. I think the jewellery being produced for men on the mainstream is boring and tacky. Which is the destination that you find the most inspiring? Paris, France. It's easy to see why the best jewellery in the world comes out of there its a beautiful place and very inspiring. What we should expect from you in the future? A male jewellery collection, I plan to capitalize on the gap in the market and bring men jewellery to rival there girlfriends or wives. Are you a realist or fantasist? Definitely a fantasist I'm constantly zoned out of reality and am in my head dreaming of designs. I love to day dream and it lands me in trouble often.

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McCAUL H A N D - F O R G E D C R E AT I V I T Y

The essence of design B Y C AT H E R I N E VA R O U C H A

Irish fine jewellers McCaul Goldsmiths are renowned for creating elegant jewellery that accentuates the curves and contours of the body. Their exquisite range of cocktail rings is no exception. Hand-forged pieces which encase or meander around the fingers, colourful, exceptional gemstones which inspire unique creations and fluid, sweeping lines are the hallmark of their striking new designs. At the Jewellery Historian we love their creations and we are proud to introduce you their exceptional work.

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Irish fine jewellers McCaul Goldsmiths are

Highlights include the Carved 18 carat rose

renowned for creating elegant jewellery that

gold ring with green tourmaline and white

accentuates the curves and contours of the

diamonds. This sculptural rose gold cocktail

body. Their exquisite range of cocktail rings

ring has been hand carved to fit the

is no exception. Hand-forged pieces which

gemstone making it a one-of-a-kind piece.

encase or meander around the fingers,

The rightly polished surface beneath the

colourful, exceptional gemstones which

green tourmaline highlight its colour and

inspire unique creations and fluid, sweeping

contrast with the sleek, satin outer surface of

lines are the hallmark of their striking new

the ring. The green tourmaline is surrounded

designs.

by a wide rose gold bezel. Two white diamonds set into the bezel provide a bit of

Based on Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Exmouth Market, McCaul

sparkle.

was founded in 2009 and have since established them as a destination store for

Or choose the 18 carat forged gold pave

expertly handcrafted fine jewellery. Their

diamond ring.

collections are designed and made within

yellow gold and diamond cocktail ring are

their atelier, while they also create special

accentuated with a line of sparkling white

one-of-a-kind pieces and offer a bespoke

diamonds. Designed with consideration for

service.

balance and proportion, the playful looping

The dramatic loops of this

form of the ring sits perfectly on the hand. As classically trained goldsmiths, their style

This yellow gold and diamond cocktail ring is

and forms are heavily influenced by

hand-forged from 18 carat gold bar and pave

technique and the properties of the metals

set with tapering lines of white diamonds.

they work with. Using both traditional modern goldsmithing techniques they create

The 18 carat gold Marquise green garnet and

their long lasting, contemporary jewellery

diamond ring has an unusual setting to

pieces. They aim to create elegant jewellery

complement and showcase this outstanding

that accentuates the curves and contours of

stone. The angular forms of the setting were

the body. Rings gently meander around the

designed to emphasise the marquise cut of

fingers and earrings sweep and caress the

the green garnet and are echoed in the

contours of the jaw line. Precious metals are

triangle of pave set white diamonds across

hand-forged into sweeping tapered loops; a

one shoulder of the ring. Yellow gold

curve highlighted with lines of tiny diamonds;

enhances the rich colour of the stone and

c o l o u r f u l g e m s t o n e s i n s p i re o n e - o ff

contrasts with the white diamonds.

creations. Their search for exceptional gemstones regularly takes us to fairs abroad

McCaulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cocktail rings are wholly designed

where we source our most remarkable

and made within their London atelier. They

stones.

use both traditional and modern

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goldsmithing techniques to create their long lasting, contemporary jewellery pieces.

classically trained goldsmiths, their style and forms are heavily influenced by technique and the properties of the precious metals and gems they work with. The McCaul Goldsmithsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; atelier in Exmouth Market, London houses the shop and the jewellery workshop. Hundred-year-old goldsmithing equipment sits alongside cutting edge technology. You will see them at work forging gold into sweeping forms using century-old techniques, or diamond setting under a microscope to create the delicate sparkling lines of tiny diamonds that feature in our work.

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The full collection is available from the boutique at 56, Exmouth Market and online.

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Haute Joaillerie

The magic of Farah Khan B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

Farah Khan is not just a jewellery designer but an artist of masterpieces and an orator of stories. Her creations are conceived in her over active imagination that allows her the freedom to make the impossible possible and her tales of thought, inspiration and craftsmanship is narrated within her bejeweled jewellery theatre. Pioneering and carving a niche redefining the jewellery industry & the first to create bespoke jewellery designs... She sees the world through a precious gem encrusted lens for sure. The Farah Khan Fine Jewellery story is a twenty year romance with exquisite gems stones. A romance that crafts and chisels metal into life...

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Farah Khan-Ali is a renowned Jewellery designer and

Unusual colours combined with exotic gems set the

gemologist who’s foray the jewellery line was purely by

basis for Farah Khan’s novel designs and all the pieces are

chance when she decided to do a course in Gemology at

set and crafted using the highest standards in

the renowned Gemological Institute of America in Santa

manufacturing techniques thus never compromising on

Monica, California in 1992. She graduated at the top of

the finish. All of Farah Khan’s pieces are manufactured in

her class.

house in their 9200 square feet jewellery design workshop

Farah Khan-Ali has always been creatively inclined. Her

that houses 80 craftsmen currently thus maintaining a

sense of visual perception stimulates her senses to see

stringent quality control and check on each and every

design in the most least expected places. In her own

piece that is manufactured.

words she says “I view the world around us from a

The Farah Khan Fine Jewellery brand has emerged as

different perspective. What necessarily is to others is not

a high-end fine jewellery brand in the Indian &

what I see it as. I am captivated by our natural

International Market scenario and is recognized for its

environment and any form, shape that catches my fancy

quality and craftsmanship

stimulates me to translate that inanimate thought into an

For Farah, inspiration begins with a strong emotion.

animate object of beauty and art.”

You have to “feel” to be inspired. Design is not about

Having designed for some of the top Bollywood

getting inspired from what you have seen in jewellery, but

celebrities and people from India's foremost business

the process of being able to find design wherever you go.

families, she insists on being a perfectionist who loves to

It is pertinent to note that human beings think alike but it

please herself first so that so that she can eventually

is their interpretation, which makes a difference. I am

please her clients. She admits that she has to do

inspired through the process of life & my experiences of

everything well so that it all comes together eventually.

it.”

With 21 years of focus and experience in this field, she

The Farah Khan Fine Jewellery Brand is a celebration

still feels like a creatively inclined soul who happened to

of today’s woman who is feminine yet strong, graceful yet

come into Jewellery Designing by chance, only to

determined. It is about a real woman, one that is sensual

discover that she was born for it.

in her being and confident in her existence, a woman who

“When I play with precious gemstones its like creating

is beautiful inside out.

an object of beauty and desire, one that outlives its wearer and brings a sea of memories with it when it is

At the Jewellery Historian we consider her exceptional

handed down generation.” – Farah Khan

work as one of the greatest and we are honored to

As she says “ I don’t love to design, I live to design”

feature in this issue exceptional pieces from one of the

and “the day I discover myself, I shall cease to exist”.

most talented artists. Her work has been previously

FARAH KHAN jewellery is distinctive in style. It is

featured in the Jewellery Historian with issue 4 and an

intricate yet striking, bold yet feminine.

exceptional bangle bracelet, one of our favorites,

“My designs are flamboyant, ornate and adventurous. I

illustrated our cover on the same issue.

believe that jewellery should make you feel like a princess when you wear it no matter how big or small the piece of jewellery is, it should be eye catching and make the wearer feel special.” – Farah Khan In a short span the Farah Khan Fine Jewellery label has become synonymous with setting high standards for style, quality, detailing, design and elegance. This is a line of limited edition jewels that lets you indulge in the luxury of affluence.. "Where Precious becomes Priceless"

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2017 COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS

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MATHON H A N D - F O R G E D C R E AT I V I T Y

B Y C AT H E R I N E VA R O U C H A

This summer, luxury meets modernity, lacquer meets diamonds, and New York meets Paris. For 2017, Mathon Paris is offering you a brand new version of the art deco collection Manhattan. Inspiration of the creations since 1931, Paris and its mystical places are coming back to the center of Mathon Parisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; collections.Baguettes of ornamental stones are replacing semi-precious stones, bringing a new identity to this new collection. A unique pattern of light and a strong contrast of textures between the 3 ranges are created by the match of stones and materials. The geometrical aesthetic is kept, but rethought using bigger volumes, more intense and contrasted colors than ever, and with a new architectural spirit.

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This summer, luxury meets modernity,

passage Verdeau has inspired the Maison

lacquer meets diamonds, and New York

Mathon Paris to create this range of

meets Paris.

accessible jewelry, mixing chic and tradition.

For 2017, Mathon Paris is offering you a

Pieces are small, setted of white diamonds

brand new version of the art deco collection

and colored lacquers. Easily combinable, you

Manhattan. Inspiration of the creations since

will wear them daily. Inspired by the effects of

1931, Paris and its mystical places are

textures created by the contrast between

coming back to the center of Mathon Paris’

glasses and strong colors of the galleries, the

collections.

3 declensions of Verdeau line are playing with variations of colors and shining between

Goodbye New York, bonjour Paris!

lacquers and diamonds. 3 versions for 3 styles: orange and dark purple for a chic

Baguettes of ornamental stones are replacing

look, blue and vert for a summer touch, and

semi-precious stones, bringing a new identity

pink and red for a pop and feminine style.

to this new collection. A unique pattern of

You will fall in love with these jewels.

light and a strong contrast of textures between the 3 ranges are created by the

Passage des Panoramas

match of stones and materials. The geometrical aesthetic is kept, but rethought

Let’s continue our walk out of time inside the

using bigger volumes, more intense and

Parisian galleries…

contrasted colors than ever, and with a new architectural spirit.

We are now passing by the Passage Jouffroy, inhabited by these famous and strange wax

This new collection Passages is wrote as the

statues from the Musée Grévin. We don’t

first chapter of a bucolic walk out of time.

have the time to realize we are out of this

Let’s go outside the atelier for a strolling

passage that we are already inside a new

rhythmed by galleries and secret Parisian

one: the Passage des Panoramas, which is

passages.

the starting point of a mosaic of secret ways. Created in 1799, Panorama was the first

Passage Verdeau

covered passage in Paris, a meeting ground, still mixing today unusual shops and some of

B y w a n d e r i n g a l o n g t h e B o u l e v a rd

the most typical bistros of Paris. A place full

Montmartre, you will discover the passage

of energy and always animated.

Verdeau as if by magic. A Neo-classic style, luminous gallery, elegant and with one of the

Mathon Paris wanted to create its own

most beautiful canopy of Paris. Constructed

representation of the passage, with luminous,

in 1847 in the 9th arrondissement, the

unique and timeless jewels, just like the

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passage! Connoisseurs will appreciate the

smooth aspect of the turquoise; while chips of

marquetry disposition of these delicate

pyrite incrusted in lapis-lazuli, are shining with

mother-of-pearls, inspired by the canopy of

diamonds’ sparkles, just like the starry sky

the passage. Straight and tapered lines are

appearing through the canopy when you’re

giving a strong architectural spirit to the

looking up. The warms shades of the Vivienne

jewels.

range alternates baguettes of eye-of-tiger and patterns in malachite. Veins of malachite

The Panorama range is composed of jewels

associated to the cat’s eye effect of the

with large volumes and various shades of

eye-of-tiger are offering a woody and

white. They are made to be worn with a

texturized aspect, inspired by the facades

simple but chic outfit. The necklace, shaped

inside the gallery. Those associations of

like a tie, will be perfect with a suit or a

geometrical stones remind the delicate

generous cleavage. The rigid bracelet, very

mosaic on the floor.

contemporary, will illuminate your wrist. The earrings will make amazing any messy bun,

Vivienne sets are offering declensions full of

and the ring will dress your hand of a

colors and contrast you can mix, or not, for a

thousand diamonds!

chic and casual style.

A simple set, but magically precious.

At the Jewellery Historian we had the pleasure to try the new jewellery collections

Galerie Vivienne

and we all loved them. The next time you meet our editor-in-chief in one of the multiple

And the last stop of our summer walk is inside

events he attends worldwide you should not

the Galerie Vivienne. Let’s take a moment to

be surprised to see him wearing one of those

admire the beauty of these walls made of

pieces. He always makes sure that he

wood and inspired by the Neo-Classicism

tastefully accessorizes his outfits, because he

movement, the beauty of the floor made of a

knows that jewellery is an enhancement to a

fabulous mosaic signed by Giandomenico

man’s outfit. As a confident and dynamic man,

Facchina, and the beauty of the luminous and

he makes a statement wearing selective

enormous canopy. We are letting ourselves

pieces of jewellery and these new collections

being drown inside the XVII th century by the

are among them!

gallery, far from the crowd and modernity of Parisian life. Do you hear the horse spinning around with a clatter of hooves? The Art Déco Vivienne Range is playing with light reflects: the irisation of the mother-of-pearl is contrasting with the

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SANDRA BILOE AN EXCEPTIONAL JOAILLERIE PREMIÈRE B Y C H R I S T I N A R O D O P O U LO U

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Sandra Biloé Joaillerie Monte-Carlo is a brand new Monegasque Company of Haute Joaillerie (High Jewellery).   It was created in 2017 by the very well-known French/Brazilian Contemporary Artist, Sandra Biloé who exhibits regularly in the premier artistic locations within Monaco and is featured regularly on Monaco Info. Her work specialises on the theme of the flora & fauna of 'The Amazon', with her favourite flower the Strelitzia featuring in each composition. She wishes to give life to all artistic and jewelery creations through the forms and combination of tropical colors. "Nature unfolds to us all the codes of wild beauty in the Amazon, we must know how to observe them and sublimate them through art."  Sandra Biloe creates and imagines Insects from Amazonia, especially at night, in her Studio where all her memories of her childhood reappear.   During her meeting with Frederic Mané, one of the greatest Designers of the prestigious and world-famous Place Vendôme, a real artistic stroke is taking place. She decided to entrust him with all her future collections. He introduces her to one of the most prestigious Studios of Place Vendôme - Atelier MIX by Marie Grimaud & Felix Albert. Their hands of genius will help to produce her first High Jewellery creation : The Ring - 'STRELITZIA' (and all future collections). Sandra Biloe Joallerie presents the Amazon in a ew light combining reality with fantasy through her High Jewellery creations. The creation of jewellery Sandra Biloé's Strelitzia ring is made by hand with the greatest attention to Haute Joaillerie know-how. Frédéric Mané Grand Designer realized the technical jewelery design with a great concern for the respect of the original work of Sandra Biloé. He captured the soul is the spirit of his universe. Sandra Biloe validates each step. It is an artistic work that reflects the mastery of the tiniest details with a know-how that expresses exceptional techniques like the one of update where the ring is sublimated from all angles. Curves express life as they are identical to natural leaves. The ring was created with natural stones of exceptional quality to preserve the purity of the work by expressing to the end the search for the beauty of nature. The signature of all the creation of Sandra Biloé is to represent his art through the technique of “Grand feu” enamel. Details of his artistic paintings are depicted on the leaves of the ring. Rare know-how realized by the most prestigious Ateliers of Place Vendôme with rare combined techniques and natural stones for unique pieces for each customer.

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THE RENDERING OF THE EXCEPTIONAL RING

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THE EXCEPTIONAL “STRELITZIA” RING

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AN EXCEPTIONAL CREATION BY SANDRA BILOE

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THE WORK OF SANDRA BILOE IS RICH IN COLOR AND SUBLIME

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FINE PORCELAIN CREATIONS BY SANDRA BILOE

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THE RING AS SEEN FROM BELOW ALLOWS YOU TO DISCOVER AN EXCEPTIONAL ARTISTIC CREATION

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W.SALAMOON & SONS T H R E E G E N E R AT I O N S

Expertise & Craftsmanship B Y C AT H E R I N E VA R O U C H A

Since 1907, three generations of expertise and craftsmanship have occupied the House of Salamoon, flawlessly conceiving irreplaceable masterpieces that forever stand the test of time.

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Since 1907, three generations of expertise and craftsmanship have occupied the House of Salamoon, flawlessly conceiving irreplaceable masterpieces that forever stand the test of time. Each piece is made with love from the heart of the Salamoon workshop with diamonds and stones selected carefully for their purity and quality, becoming the soul of each elegantly crafted design. For over a century, W. Salamoon & Sons has been the destination of choice for its discerning clientele across the Middle East, perpetually setting trends that have evolved to become everlasting traditions. Throughout the decades the House of Salamoon has created jewelry, from newlyweds and newborns to royalty and aristocrats. With each piece that gets passed down from generation to generation, it is not only an heirloom that is handed over, but also an appreciation for beauty, sophistication and undeniable craftsmanship. It is with this tradition that W.Salamoon & Sons commemorate each moment with every one of their clients, taking pride in the honor of being present in an endless timeline of celebration. At the Jewellery Historian we are honored to introduce to our readers this maison, synonym of elegance and refinement.

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, ..

.. B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

This inspirational book by Jasmin Karger is an absolute must for all jewellery designers and enthusiasts. Not only it is beautiful from cover to cover but it is full of the most incredible insider tips and advice on all aspects of jewellery illustration.It is definitely the perfect resource for both aficionados and professionals.

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London-based jewellery designer Jasmin Karger,

taught Jewellery Design internationally since 2007 and

the founder of Jaqc-Jewellery, has published her first

has inspired many students through her hands-on

book "The Magic of Jewellery Illustration" along with a

instruction. Since 2012 she creates fine jewellery under

free YouTube-Channel.

her label JAQC Jewellery.

This new step-by-step manual is designed to teach

Few weeks ago I had the unique privilege to

the beautiful art of depicting Jewellery in a

preview this new book of Jasmin Karger and it is difficult

straightforward and practical way. It covers all the main

to find the correct words to describe this book, since it is

elements needed to design fine jewellery without going

simply exceptional.

into the details of scary technical drawing techniques.

Reviewing a book written by a beloved friend is not

An additional folder with guides and templates will

the easiest thing to do, since impartiality is required and

make it easy to layout rings, earrings, necklaces and much

essential, but in this case the truth is that I really loved this

more.

new book. I know Jasmin for quite many years, since she "My goal of writing this book is to enable anyone

was my jewellery design teacher. With Jasmin, I have

with an interest in jewellery design and illustration to

learned unique techniques and I learned how to express

create stunning renderings in a short amount of time"

my creativity and imagination. Jasmin is a wonderful

says Jasmin.

teacher that gave me the ability to create amazing

"It all started when a few of my students

jewellery and to be able express my love for jewellery.

approached me to write a manual with all my personal

This book reminded me all the techniques I learned

t i p s a n d t r i c k s .

with Jasmine.

I was captivated by the amount of

And the longer I thought about it the more I liked the

information, by the completeness of the entire book and

idea.

for this reason I would like to recommend it to you all As pictures speak more than words, I wanted "The

without any hesitation. Based on my extensive knowledge

Magic of Jewellery Illustration" to be a visual guide with

in jewellery, backed up by studies in gemology at the

many illustrations. Then I realised videos are an even

internationally known Gemological Institute of America

better communication tool and an additional youtube

(GIA), and my studies in jewellery design, I could say that I

tutorial channel was born.

loved this book and that I am extremely honored and

When I was trained as a goldsmith in Germany,

proud to be among the first to review it. This inspirational book is the ultimate guide to

jewellery illustration was a large part of the curriculum. I learned early in my career how important a good

express your creativity. It features everything you need to

illustration technique is to express design and

know. You will learn step by step how to access an

craftsmanship. Later, while working as a bespoke

extreme creative freedom, which is so important to all

designer, it was a pleasure to see the sparkle in the eyes

designers. Complete with an introduction and a useful

of customers, especially couples in love looking for an

glossary The magic of Jewellery Illustration is the

engagement ring, when I offered them a beautifully drawn

perfect resource for both aficionados and professionals

sketch of their future design. Even in an age when

who are interested to learn unique techniques that will

computer aided design is often used to communicate

allow them to create exceptional jewellery. It is definitely a

ideas, the enticing effect of a hand drawn sketch has not

great gift for that creative person in your life or a solid

faded."

addition to your book collection.

London-based designer Jasmin Karger trained as a traditional goldsmith in Germany and worked for well-known contemporary jewellery artists before developing her own collections for the retail market.  The Goldsmiths' Company has recognised her with several awards for her unusual and inspiring designs, as well as her application of CAD/CAM technology. She has

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THE BOOK COVER

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THE DESIGN AND THE FINAL PRODUCT

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O N E O F T H E M A N Y P R OJ E C T S I N T H E B O O K

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O N E O F T H E M A N Y P R OJ E C T S I N T H E B O O K

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Haute Joaillerie

. ..

ULTIMATE FLUIDITY B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

His work is a celebration of design. Exquisite pieces with ethereal appeal, structured forms with a very light, seamless flow enclosed in the resultingÂ soul of the piece.

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Nikos Koulis is a Greek designer with worldwide recognition and success. Coming from an established family business in jewelry, he studied Gemology and Glyptography in the Gemological Institute of America and created his own brand, Nikos Koulis Jewels, in 2006, showcasing his elaborate technique along with his deep knowledge in the quality jewelry making. He has won the Couture Design Award with Oui Collection for two consecutive years; in 2015 in the Bridal Category and in 2016 in the Haute Couture Category; evolving the collection's designs and maintaining his innovative signature style and exceptional quality of stones. The brand was granted with the 2017 International Jewellery Designer Award in VicenzaOro exhibition in Italy and takes part in selected prominent shows around the world. His creations can be found in exclusive stores in 26 cities around the world, such as Bergdorf Goodman in New York, Neiman Marcus in Beverly Hills, Dover Street Market in London, Montaigne Market and Colette in Paris, Tsum in Moscow and in the Middle East. His press coverage expands in international editions of The New York Times, Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Elle, Marie Claire and Town & Country and among others; his loyal fans include H.R.H. Queen Rania of Jordan, Rihanna, Chrissy Teigen, Giorgio Armani and Daphne Guinness. In the summer of 2014, Nikos Koulis opened his first conceptual boutique in Mykonos and he launched his flagship boutique in Athens, creating an instant international sensation with the distinct aesthetic of both spaces. Lingerie, is Koulis’ first collection using pearls as a main material. Characterised by exquisite details, elaborate technique and a seamless flow, Lingerie pieces are reminiscent of sensual laces. The designer uses solely Tahiti silver pearls combined with white diamonds, emeralds, blue sapphires and rubies; and in certain pieces he combines them with black enamel - one of his signature materials. He blends circular with linear forms and plays with the different sizes of pearls, resulting in unexpected delicate creations ranging from casual everyday pieces to statement ones. At the Jewellery Historian we are always honored to showcase the exceptional work of Nikos Koulis. His work is a celebration of the “purity of design”,

a celebration of refinement. Exquisite pieces with ethereal appeal,

structured forms with a very light, seamless flow enclosed in the resulting soul of the piece.

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Gemology

BUY THE DIAMOND

THE BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS BY EVA KOUNTOURAKI

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We are living in a period of time where everything is rapidly changing. We are however lucky to know that there are some things that are stable and solid. And some, that were here before us and will remain after us. Those are the ones that we use as point of reference and approved standards during our lives. If we want to thrive and grow in this whirl we should learn how to adjust our veils to the wind and fight our personal battles until we fulfill our expectations. And then try some more, set new goals, and live, enjoy, laugh, create, destroy, leave, return, love, learn. Humans have a fascinating, yet strange, sense of eternity. Although we could compare our time to so many things that are truly eternal, or at least in many cases so much more antique and persevering than ourselves, we choose a frivolous way of facing our life that surprisingly makes us feel safe and strong. However, we do recognize the power of some â&#x20AC;&#x153;thingsâ&#x20AC;? without, in most cases, truly understanding it. So in order for us to handle the mysterious nature of what we cannot perceive, we call it magical. The best example of such a potent item is the diamond. Since the discovery of the very first diamonds, our instinct was to try to conquer them. This is what humans do actually. Once we find something that overwhelms us with its beauty and power, our first reaction is to protect ourselves by attacking it. Sometimes we win, sometimes we learn, sometimes we find a compromise, sometimes we see the hidden value and want to take advantage of it, sometimes we run away, or we bravely allow ourselves to fall in love with it... And as the history teaches us -but we insist on not learning, once the struggle and fighting finish, we have to let go and live with either the damage or, hopefully, with the gifts that we, often unconsciously, have accumulated during the battles. So, humans tried to change the appearance of the diamonds they were recovering. They tried to grind them, to cut them, to polish The opinions expressed in articles are the author's own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The articles of the Jewellery Historian are entertainment, not Investment advice.

their surface and change their shape. The only thing that they succeeded in doing was to be awed by the strength of this material that screamed angrily on their primitive lathes and burned the fingers of the person who was trying to handle it. Frightened by the power of this crystal, they attributed magical powers to it, it became a mysterious and profoundly sacred symbol of the most grand ideas, situations, and

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people, and only the important and holy ones were

diamonds. Diamonds have always remained on the top

entitled to owning and wearing one. So this material, so

step of the gem pantheon whereas all other gemstones,

mighty and invincible, so “alien” for our little existence,

which may have always kept a certain level of value, have

was given the name “adamastos” that eventually became

switched positions during the years.

“diamond”, and means unconquerable, that cannot be tamed.

Today, people everywhere on the planet, buy diamonds for various reasons; Diamonds are romantic.

Everybody knows how a diamond looks like. Or at

Romance, not as in pink fluffy butterfly empty blissfulness,

least they are convinced they do. Everybody knows that

but as in “every time I look at this I feel your love”; as in “I

diamonds are costly stuff. Everybody knows that

am willing to spend my time and effort for you. It’s not my

diamonds are used to crown important occasions, and all

money, it’s my struggle”, as in “I am willing to cede it only

of us, who use diamonds, make of them symbols of our

to offer it to somebody who understands and

deepest feelings that we secretly hope will live forever.

appreciates”. Truthfully and soberly romantic.

Because everybody has heard that a diamond is forever.

Diamonds are the only safe asset that you can

So we want one or preferably more than one diamonds in

always carry with you. A prestigious and rare item that you

our lives. In our safe, in our bank deposit, in our jewelry

can own! Yes, think of it for a moment, such an antique

box, on our hand, around our beloved persons’ arm or

treasure from the depths of the earth, which is born under

neck... We want to see it sparkle and make us feel happy

extreme conditions of heat and pressure and reaches us

because we are capable of owning or have offered a

with violent eruptions of ash and rock, now shining

piece of eternity. A treasure that will always be there even

audaciously on your finger... A breathtaking sparkle that is

when there will be other eyes to be dazzled by its

locked in the crystal and is only revealed when the best

out-of-this-world beauty.

cutters give the diamonds their facets and shape. Because

“Everybody knows how a diamond looks like”. But

remember, apart from the presence or absence of clarity

every thing everybody knows is strictly tied to the person’s

characteristics, all diamond crystals have the same

ability of perception, adaptation, knowledge and most of

potential of handling the light and returning it to our eyes;

all sensitivity. The blessing is that all humans

how nice they will look in the end depends on what we

subconsciously understand that diamonds are superior

humans do with them during the cutting and polishing

materials. After realizing that diamonds are not easy toys,

processes.

humans put their thoughts and efforts in trying to

Diamonds are not influenced by political and

understand them and perhaps benefit from them. Experts

social crises. They are a universal “currency” and can be

started analyzing them, and noticed that a variety of

liquidated everywhere in the world. Years of statistics

sciences and true exertion were required; physics,

reveal that when correctly chosen, their exchange value

chemistry, crystallography, geology, economic and

remains positive and rises in time.

marketing studies, combined to a touch of creative

Diamonds are eternal; more than life, more than

madness, hundreds of years of time and a lot of effort

money. They are the only item that can deliver so many

were spent in order to reach a point when we could say

words without speaking, that can carry so much history

we have understood the material so we could finally apply

without moving, that can be so awesome just by “sitting”

our knowledge and, this time, respect the unique

there, that can that can express so many feelings without

character of this mineral.

having a heart, that can make us feel secure and wealthy

Once we applied our calculations on the diamond crystals, these revealed an unprecedented beauty that,

at any moment, anywhere. Such a condensed form of monetary and sentimental richness.

still today, cannot be compared to anything else. Diamonds are probably the only gemstones that have retained, not to say increased, their intrinsic value throughout the years. They never stopped fascinating humans and humans never stopped yearning for

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PASSIONATE VISIONARY B Y LU C A S S A M A LTA N O S - F E R R I E R

PH LM IL KHF MA E G HF BG KN BGM HGHK EB L LF EE LAHI M FBG PBMA NKBHLBMB L IE PA K HEE MHKL PHKE PB I KML G F M NKL MH MA K MA K MH BL HO K .R B HNKM BEE TL PHKE H K KBMB L H FH KG G GMBJN C P EE KR K E F HR GM K MBOBMR F ML MA NGNLN E G MA K K LM H FLMHG L MKN U E HNKM BEE V .R B HNKM BEE A L IM MA FRMAB E K GH G BGMH A K E M LM HEE MBHG GMBME S KNBML H FR LLBHGT K BHNL LMHG L LN A L L IIABK L G IBGD G E FHG MHNKF EBG L BG MA HKF H MKHIB E KNBM K HF BG PBMA L KI GM MH NEER G HFI LL MA M E L H F G O

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Two steps from the Place Vendome in rue Saint Honoré lies a small shop teeming with curiosities, a place where collectors worldwide, experts and amateurs together, gather to discover Lydia Courteille’s world of rarities - of modern and antique jewellery. Here, flamboyant creativity meets the unusual and the rarest of gemstones. Scientist, collector, gemmologist and traveller, but at heart an antique jewellery dealer, Lydia Courteille started to create more than ten years ago, conjuring up more than thirty collections so that she could share her passions, knowledge and creativity with her clients. The brand Lydia Courteille was created in 1987. It was first entirely devoted to antique jewelry and only after some years and some 7000 pieces of jewelry collected and sold, Lydia Courteille decided to create her own jewelry pieces. Since 1996 she had designed over 30 jewelry collections. A free spirit, her humour and audacity knows no limits; provocation is never far away from her extraordinary imagination. Mysterious symbols, archaeology from the distant past, flora and fauna are all part of her intoxicating mix. Her jewels are nevertheless wearable and her parures noble in style. The Lydia Courteille boutique is a cabinet of curiosities that serves as a precious box for numerous collection, exhibition place, but also have a museum spirit: the pieces are presented as treasures one discovers. Twice a year the window display transforms into a scenography that illustrates a new collection.To enter Lydia Courteille’s curiosity cabinet is to take a journey of discovery into the world of conversation jewellery with stories to tell. Her latest collection is once more exceptional. Poetic and dynamic at the same time, a collection of refinement and elegance that embraces the differences between feminine and masculine energy and diversity of passion. It is a collection full of juices, creative ones, that we all loved at first sight. A true “a la Courteille”, Lydia Courteille has adapted the mythical Garden of Eden into her latest collection entitled ‘Fruits of my Passion’. Precious stones such as sapphires and pink and lemon tourmalines, in the form of tropical fruit, are combined with a serpent to fully encompass the tales of Adam and Eve. At the Jewellery Historian we are always honored to showcase the exceptional work of Lydia Courteille. She is not only one of the greatest artists of her generation, but also an exceptional woman we admire and love. “I make jewels as others might write poetry”(after Madeleine Castaing) is her favorite motto and we will agree. She is a poet, an artist, a romantic passionate visionary.

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How to wear vintage and retro brooches B Y L A R A VA N S C H A I K , G . G ( G I A )

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Brooches are on a comeback tour. Especially vintage and retro brooches from the 1930s to the 1960s made in gold, platinum, diamonds and colored stones. They are often beautifully hand crafted, precious and very stylish. But instead of the obvious lapel or corner of a jacket, why not pin them on an unusual place? Brooches are far more versatile than you think. You can pin them in your hair, accentuate your waist and fasten them on a belt or side of a dress. You can hide a zipper on the back of a gown, or tighten a tunic, even on arm sleeves or to accentuate your neckline. You can wear a brooch as a very exquisite hair ornament. You can pin them in your hair and fixate with simple hairpins. You can stick them in a braid, a knot or a chignon. For the heavier brooches, you do need a little thick hair, otherwise your hair can not carry the weight. All ages can wear brooches in their hair, for a sweet 16 party, a prom, a wedding, a promotion or a gala. It’s chic, you will stand out from the crowd and you give a brooch a new life. For the illustration of this article, we selected brooches from the 1940s and 1950s, from La Châtelaine Jewelry. More precisely, Boucheron bouquet in 18K gold and sapphires, Buckle brooch in 18K gold set with small diamonds, Flower brooch in 18K and sapphires, Cornucopia brooch in 18K gold and set with yellow sapphires and diamonds, French rose brooch in 18K gold and diamonds, French Coeur brooch in 18K gold and diamonds, Curl brooch in 18K gold and diamonds, Cascade of sapphires brooch in 18K gold and sapphires, Set of snowflake brooches in 18K gold and diamonds, Mauboussin spray set in 18K gold and diamonds, Large double clip brooch in 18K white gold and set with sapphires, rubies, emeralds and diamonds.

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Hair ornament French heart

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Hair ornament sapphire cascade

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Love At the Jewellery Historian we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose, enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life, with jewellery, designed by the most talented jewellery designers.

All fashion photography by Kiselev Andrey Valerevich / Shutterstock. com | Signed model release on file with Shutterstock, Inc. All jewellery photos used with permission from the jewellery brands.

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YOKO LONDON

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S E L L I

ucas L y b n electio

Croire au merveillex Christophe Ono-dit-Biot «Je veux bien avoir été distrait ces temps-ci, mais je sais que si j'avais croisé cette fille-là dans l'ascenseur ou le hall d'entrée, je m'en serais souvenu. Et puisque je me souviens d'elle, c'est que je l'ai vue ailleurs.» César a décidé de mourir. Mais une jeune femme sonne à sa porte et contrarie ses plans. Étudiante en architecture, grecque, elle se prétend sa voisine, alors qu'il ne l'a jamais vue. En est-il si sûr? Pourquoi se montret-elle si prévenante envers lui, quadragénaire en deuil de Paz, la femme aimée, persuadé qu'il n'arrivera pas à rendre heureux l'enfant qu'ils ont eu ensemble, et qui lui ressemble tant? Pourquoi est-elle si intéressée par sa bibliothèque d'auteurs antiques? D'un Paris meurtri aux rivages solaires de l'Italie en passant par quelques îles proches et lointaines, Croire au merveilleux, en dialogue intime avec Plonger, est l'histoire d'un homme sauvé par son enfance et le pouvoir des mythes. Un homme qui va comprendre qu'il est peut-être temps, enfin, de devenir un père. Et de transmettre ce qu'il a de plus cher. 240 pages, Gallimard

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Une chance folle Anne Godard Magda a été gravement brûlée lorsqu’elle avait quelques mois. Elle ne se souvient pas de l’accident, mais sa mère en a noté les circonstances dans un carnet. Toute son enfance, les opérations, les pansements, les cures thermales se succèdent. Sa mère se consacre à elle, on lui dit qu’elle est bien soignée. En somme, elle a une chance folle. 144 pages, Éditions de Minuit

Au temps du fleuve Amour Andreï Makine Les héros de ce livre appartiennent à un autre monde : le pays du grand blanc, au bord du fleuve Amour. Un petit village de Sibérie où l’on est obligé parfois de sortir d’une isba ensevelie sous la neige en creusant un tunnel vers la lumière du jour. Dans ces lieux de silence, la vie pourrait se confondre avec de simples battements de cœur si chaque mouvement de l’âme n’apportait sa révélation. Alors, le désir naît, de la sensualité des corps comme de la communion avec la nature offerte. L’amour a l’odeur des neiges vierges dans la profondeur de la taïga. Soudain, tout est bouleversé. L’Occident fait signe. D’abord un train qui passe, le mythique Transsibérien. Puis un film français, vision d’une existence éblouissante, appel peuplé de grandes actions et de créatures sublimes. Le vertige d’une autre histoire née sur les rives Amour, aux berges de l’adolescence. 304 pages, Seuil

Le Grand Paris Aurélien Bellanger Enfant de l’Ouest parisien, Alexandre Belgrand a grandi à l’ombre des tours de la Défense, au bord de la voie royale qui conduit du Louvre à la Grande Arche et qui sert de frise chronologique à l’histoire de France. Héritier autoproclamé de ce majestueux récit, il rejoint une école de commerce, certain d’intégrer à sa sortie l’élite de la nation. L’un de ses professeurs l’initiera alors à l’histoire secrète de la capitale, avant de le faire entrer au service de l’homme fort de la droite – «le Prince» – en passe de remporter la prochaine présidentielle. Il lui aura fallu, auparavant, parfaire sa formation d’urbaniste au milieu du désert algérien, d’où il assistera, impuissant, au soulèvement des quartiers de l’Est parisien à l’automne 2005. Au soir du 6 mai 2007, il est au Fouquet’s, dans le tout premier cercle, prêt à intégrer le cabinet du Prince. Suivront, pour Alexandre, deux années d’alcoolisation heureuse, de travail acharné et d’amitiés nocturnes au cœur du triangle d’or parisien. Il écrira l’un des discours les plus remarqués du Prince, prélude au lancement d’une grande consultation architecturale sur l’avenir de Paris ; c’est lui encore qui imaginera de doter la nouvelle métropole d’un grand métro automatique, le Grand Paris Express. Il aura alors l’orgueil de se croire indestructible. Sa disgrâce, imprévue et brutale, le conduira jusqu’à l’Est maudit de la grande métropole. C’est là que, dans sa quête de plus en plus mystique d’une ville réconciliée, il devra s’enfoncer, accomplissant son destin d’urbaniste jusqu’à son ultime conversion, ainsi qu’il le lui avait été prédit au milieu du désert : «Nous autres, urbanistes, nous parlons aux dieux plutôt qu’aux hommes.» 480 pages, Gallimard

Vous êtes une maison d’édition et vous souhaitez faire découvrir vos auteurs francophones à nos lecteurs ? Veuillez nous contacter par courriel (info@jewelleryhistorian.com).

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40 ans d’histoire avec le Beit Haverim En 2017, comment est vécue la double identité – judaïsme et homosexualité – par les gays et les lesbiennes ? Comment est abordée la question encore si douloureuse de la transidentité ? Après la reconnaissance du mariage, les homosexuels ont ce désir de transmission si important dans la tradition juive. Comment empruntent-ils le chemin de la parentalité ?

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Ce livre militant fait un bond en arrière de 40 ans pour

Consistoire refusent pour la plupart de s’afficher avec

expliquer comment une poignée de Juifs ashkénazes,

nous. Il a été extrêmement difficile de trouver un rabbin

en 1977, ont décidé de créer ce groupe embryonnaire

du Consistoire qui accepte d’écrire pour le livre. Nous

qui deviendra le Beit Haverim. Traversant les décades,

regrettons d’ailleurs que l’actuel grand rabbin de France

l’association n’a cessé de lutter pour la reconnaissance

ait décliné notre invitation alors qu’il est sensé

des droits des homosexuels. Quelles sont les clés qui

représenter tous les Juifs.

permettent d’assumer son identité juive quand on est gay, lesbienne ou trans ? Comment la communauté

L’objet de ce livre est donc de réparer ces lacunes en

juive, par l’intermédiaire de son grand rabbin de

présentant une analyse des rapports entre judaïsme et

l’époque, a joué un rôle majeur pour tenter d’empêcher

homosexualité, afin de favoriser l’émergence de pistes

le mariage pour tous ? Malgré les pressions

d’inclusion des personnes LGBT juives dans la

traditionnalistes, les couples de même sexe sont de plus

communauté pour la prochaine décennie.

en plus décomplexés et renouent avec une valeur chère Quel est le message ?

au judaïsme, le désir de transmission, en devenant parents. Ces avancées ne peuvent malheureusement pas cacher l’homophobie d’une partie de la

Ce livre entend montrer une nouvelle voie pour la

communauté (d’ailleurs dans le déni à ce sujet).

France, voie qui n’est plus nouvelle depuis longtemps

Pourtant, le meurtre de Shira Banki à Jérusalem, puis les

en Israël ou aux États-Unis. Beaucoup de rabbins et de

violents propos de l’ex-grand rabbin de France, Joseph

r e l i g i e u x c o n t i n u e n t d ’o p p o s e r j u d a ï s m e e t

Sitruk, interpellent. Face à tous ces tumultes, le Beit

homosexualité. Ils prétendent condamner seulement

Haverim reste une oasis permettant à ses membres de

l’acte en lui-même mais pas les homosexuels. Mais ce

maintenir un lien avec le judaïsme sans avoir à se cacher

discours est clairement hypocrite.

ou à craindre le regard des autres. Comment peut-on intégrer quelqu’un en son sein si on ne cesse de condamner son mode de vie ?

Pourquoi un livre ?

Ce type d’obstacle n’en est qu’un parmi tant d’autres. Si on devait citer encore quelques écueils, voici les

Il n’existe pratiquement aucune bibliographie en langue

principaux :

française sur le thème Judaïsme et homosexualité. Cela n’est pas étonnant, car les institutions juives pratiquent

– La diabolisation continuelle des LGBT avec des mots

depuis des années une politique de l’autruche sur ce

comme « abomination », « immoral » ou « contre nature »

sujet en niant ou négligeant l’existence du problème.

largement utilisés. - La sexualité des gays mise en avant au détriment de la

Cependant, notre position de double minorité demeure

dimension humaine.

très inconfortable, car nous, homosexuels juifs,

- L’illusion que seul le libre arbitre intervienne dans

« pesons » peu au sein de la communauté. De fait, très

l’orientation sexuelle.

peu d’efforts sont faits pour notre inclusion ; Les représentants de nos institutions semblent n’avoir tiré

Ce contexte est clairement celui d’une homophobie

aucune leçon de notre statut de minorité, refusant de

feutrée qui doit être dénoncée. La communauté juive,

nous accorder un statut, ce dont ils ont eux-mêmes

du moins en France, doit en prendre conscience et faire

souffert. Pourtant, le judaïsme enseigne de ne pas faire à

face à sa part d’ombre. Ce livre a pour objet de

autrui ce qu’on ne veut pas qu’il nous fasse.

bousculer les idées reçues avec pédagogie afin de rétablir la dimension humaine, contextuelle et sociale

Alors que les rabbins libéraux et massortis échangent

de l’homosexualité dans le judaïsme. Le propos est de

avec nous depuis assez longtemps, les rabbins du

déculpabiliser ceux qui ne s’assument pas. Les Juifs

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LGBT ne doivent plus se cacher, ni raser les murs. Ils ont

autorisations, etc. Madeleine a apporté son expertise

eux aussi droit à leur part de lumière. L’objectif est aussi

dans les métiers de l’édition et Alain a mis à contribution

de donner les outils pour une meilleure compréhension

son réseau pour la recherche de contributeurs.

entre tous et pour un vivre-ensemble, en conciliant judaïsme et homosexualité.

Ils ont également bénéficié du coup de main de Schlomi Melki, un graphiste talentueux dont le

Un livre pour qui ?

graphisme fait merveille, notamment pour la couverture. Au final, le nouveau-né pèse près de 150 pages avec

Même si les moyens financiers du Beit Haverim ne lui

170 photos et les parents se portent bien.

permettent pas de faire un grand tirage, ce livre est destiné à un public très hétéroclite :

L’association Beit Haverim

– Aux membres de l’association pour les remercier de

En 1977, le Beit Haverim est créé à Paris. Le groupe

continuer à nous suivre.

informel se réunit dans les locaux du centre du Christ

– À tous les Juifs LGBT qui se cachent ou vivent mal leur

Libérateur. À la suite de la dépénalisation de

orientation. Les nombreux témoignages du livre les

l’homosexualité en 1982, l’association est officiellement

aideront à sortir de leur isolement et à mieux vivre leur

créée, le bureau constitué et les statuts sont déposés en

orientation.

préfecture. L’association a pour mission principale la

– Aux familles qui ont un proche LGBT. Le livre leur

création d’un groupe venant en aide à toute personne

donnera des clés pour mieux comprendre les diverses

juive LGBT et veillant à la défense de ses droits. Guidé

dynamiques et problématiques de la cause LGBT vue

par des valeurs comme l’entraide et la défense des

sous un angle juif. Il contribue également à

libertés, le Beit Haverim est l’une des plus anciennes

dédramatiser le sujet.

associations LGBT françaises.

- Aux Juifs hétéros et aux rabbins pour qu’ils disposent d’un ouvrage de référence pour asseoir leur réflexion.

Le Beit Haverim regroupe, dans un esprit d’ouverture et

- Ce livre peut être utilisé comme un outil pédagogique.

de mixité, près de 2000 adhérents et sympathisants :

Et s’il venait à être critiqué, cela serait pour nous un

juifs, juives, judéophiles, gays, lesbiennes, bi,

signe de succès ; d’autres seraient enfin amenés à

transgenres et leurs ami-e-s (non juifs et/ou hétéros).

s’exprimer sur le sujet et à enrichir la réflexion La vocation du Beit Haverim se décline en trois

générale.

dimensions :

– Au monde gay pour qu’il comprenne davantage le point de vue juif sur l’homosexualité et la transidentité.

• Convivialité : La dimension sociale, voire ludique, demeure fondamentale. Les activités proposées

L’origine du projet

répondent aux attentes variées des adhérents. Cela faisait plusieurs années que le Beit Haverim

• Identité : La double identité – judaïsme et

souhaitait réaliser un livre. Le projet avait déjà été

homosexualité – nourrit la dimension culturelle. Tout

évoqué à l’occasion de plusieurs anniversaires. Les 40

en restant attaché à sa culture identitaire, le Beit

ans auront été la bonne opportunité, avec notamment la

Haverim poursuit son ouverture aux autres,

rencontre déterminante entre Madeleine Racimor, une

n o t a m m e n t e n o f f r a n t

ancienne compositrice et éditrice, et Alain Beit, l’actuel

des services liés à cette culture.

président du Beit Haverim. Ils ont travaillé durant une

• Citoyenneté : La dimension militante commence par

année de façon quotidienne pour retrouver les anciens,

les luttes contre l’homophobie et l’antisémitisme. Elle

dénicher les archives, récupérer les photos, collecter

s’élargit en intégrant les préoccupations essentielles

des témoignages et des articles, demander des

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Madeleine et Alain ont travaillé durant une année de façon quotidienne pour retrouver les anciens, dénicher les archives, récupérer les photos, collecter des témoignages et des articles, demander des autorisations,

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World Congress of GLBT Jews’ 23rd Conference

The Beit Haverim is delighted to welcome you to Paris for the World Congress of GLBT Jews’ 23rd Conference! We have prepared a well-balanced schedule combining : - A conference on the various currents that are affecting LGBT persons’ rights, image and position in our societies ; - Recreational activities to enjoy the city, explore Paris’ Jewish heritage, taste the food, and feel the beat of local nightlife. The registration fee includes : - A welcome cocktail - The conferences (in French with interpreters) - Friday Shabaton - Saturday lunch - Tours on the bateau mouche (barges that take you down the Seine) - Pic-nic Thank you for your interest in this event. Registration is open until Friday Sept. 1st, 2017. For further information : contact@beit-haverim.com

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de la Cité, notamment le « vivre ensemble » et les valeurs humanistes

Un livre retraçant les évènements, les évolutions les plus marquants de notre histoire.

universelles. L'association est membre des organisations suivantes : Centre LGBT Paris Ile de France Inter LGBT Les Oubliés de la Mémoire World Congress of GLBT Jews Maison des Associations du 10ème arrondissement de Paris. Le mot du Jewellery Historian Pour le Jewellery Historian ce livre est un livre évènement. C’est un livre évènement, car il retrace les quarante ans du Beit Haverim, l’une des plus anciennes associations LGBTQ+ françaises, venant en aide à toute personne juive LGBTQ+ et veillant à la défense de ses droits. C’est un livre retraçant les évènements, les évolutions les plus marquants de notre histoire. L’histoire du Beit Haverim fait partie de l’histoire de la France. Guidé par des valeurs comme l’entraide et la défense des libertés, le Beit Haverim n’est pas uniquement une association, c’est un foyer, c’est une grande famille, notre famille. Le sujet de l’homosexualité est un sujet encore tabou dans la communauté juive de France. C’est surtout pour cela que ce livre est un grand évènement, car ce livre est une invitation au dialogue et au respect mutuel. Ce livre est un outil pédagogique qui va permettre, à toute personne qui le souhaite, d’avoir les outils pour une meilleure compréhension. C’est une référence bibliographique en langue française sur le thème « Judaïsme et homosexualité » qui fournit un nombre d’informations importantes non seulement au milieu académique, mais aussi à un plus grand public. C’est pour tout cela que nous sommes fiers de soutenir le Beit Haverim et ce projet.

Pour en savoir plus et pour commander le livre : beit-haverim.com

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ADDRESS BOOK ARTISTAR JEWELLERY 2018

McCAUL

www.artistarjewels.com

www.mccaul.com

BEIT HAVERIM

NIKOS KOULIS

www.beit-haverim.com

www.nikoskoulis.gr

ÉDITIONS DE MINUIT

ORNELLA IANNUZZI

www.leseditionsdeminuit.fr

www.ornella-iannuzzi.com

ÉDITIONS SEUIL

MAGERIT JOYAS

www.seuil.com

www.mageritjoyas.com

ETHO MARIA

MATHON PARIS

www.ethomaria.com

www.mathon-paris.com

GALLIMARD

PICCHIOTTI

www.gallimard.fr

www.picchiotti.it

GUMUCHIAN

SOTHEBY’S

www.gumuchian.com

www.sothebys.com

JAQC JEWELLERY

YOKO LONDON

www.jaqcjewellery.com

www.yokolondon.com

LA CHÂTELAINE

W.SALAMOON & SONS

www.chatelaine-jewelry.com

www.wsalamoon.com

LYDIA COURTEILLE www.lydiacourteille.com

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