Jewellery Historian issue #03 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian ISSUE 03 / YEAR 01

#03

cover

20 48 10-News 20-Kara Ross The artist

32- Travel Helsinki 34-Diamond in the rough The beauty of nature 48- Crow's Nest Visually breathtaking

88 62-Orlov Precious dream 74-Eleuterio The filigree master 88- Carla Amorim Brazilian Passion 102-Our Faves Trends & must haves

Jewellery Historian ISSUE 03 / YEAR 01

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#03 Jewellery Historian ISSUE 03, YEAR 01 SEPTEMBER 2014 Founder & Editor-in-chief : Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier www.jewelleryhistorian.com e-mail : info@jewelleryhistorian.com

Cover : Ring by CROW'S NEST Photo courtesy of Crow's Nest © CROW'S NEST

*** PUBLISHED & DISTRIBUTED IN COLLABORATION WITH

HOMO EVOLUTION

Chomatianou 26, 10439 Athens, Greece

***

www.crowsnestjewels.com

All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine.

Issue #4 will be available October 2014

Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this site is strictly prohibited.The content, entire edition, graphics, design, and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission.All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Web pages of the company are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or e-magazine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.

www.leyla-abdollahi.com

Editor's letter

The Jewellery Historian started from scratch, one sunny morning in Helsinki. As a graduate gemologist & a jewellery designer, I wanted to make a magazine and a website that will focus to the unique universe of jewellery. Our passion is to discover the work of talented artists worldwide, and to give all the energy and respect it is hidden through our passion. Their passion becomes our passion. We care only for passionate people who create unique jewellery. Our main mission is to promote, inspire and educate and for this reason we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. With a great team of people we have started this unique adventure and it is with pride that we introduce you our third issue. We are also very proud to welcome new members in our family. The jewellry industry is important, with millions of people working on it. It is one of the oldest, I could even call it ancient, industries in the world. Behind each jewellery creation you find the people who make them. Gemologists who travel the globe to source the best gemstones. Jewellry designers, who inspired by their own creative world and the gemstones, will design on a piece of paper and on the computer the jewellery. Designers will give birth to the idea, but they are many people that will work hard to make the idea a reality. All these people needed a managazine to showcase their work and the Jewellery Historian is their magazine. It is also the magazine of people who want a magazine about jewellery and nothing more. I know that many people consider jewellery a part of fashion, a trend. I consider jewellery a piece of art and as such it needs our attention. Each piece has a story to tell and had been created to last for generations, even when we will not be any longer on this earth. To all these people, the ones who work in this industry, as well to our passionate readers, I dedicate this autumn issue.

S W E N SHAWISH ARRIVES IN MARBELLA &MEGèVE Shawish Genève announced its partnership with Gomez y Molina Joyeros. Indeed, the prestigious and traditional jewellery based in Marbella (Spain)is, from this summer, the official Shawish Genève retailer in the city and will propose exclusively the Shawish Genève magic to its highend clientele. If you are looking for freshness this summer, we invite you in the Alps resort in Megève (France) in order to visit the renowned boutique Guilhem Joaillier (Jewellers since 1865), which will propose to its clients Shawish Genève's universe in its magnificient jewellery store. Photo courtesy of SHAWISH GENEVE © SHAWISH GENEVE

Gomez y Molina Marbella Avda. Ramón y Cajal, 15 / 29600 Marbella, Spain tel: +34 952 779 999 Guilhem Joaillier Rue Charles Feige, 115, 74120 Megève, France tel: +33 4 50 21 66 80

NEW IN

TOWN

27T H BIENNALE DES MUST-V ANTIQUAIRES E V E NISIT T GRAND PALAIS PARIS Biennale des Antiquaires – the premier showcase of art and antiques featuring treasures from the world’s greatest dealers since the 1950's – will take place at the Grand Palais in Paris from September 11 – 21, 2014. For its 27th edition, Syndicat National des Antiquaires (SNA) President Christian Deydier called upon internationally acclaimed interior designer Jacques Grange to recreate the Versailles Gardens under the iconic Grand Palais glass dome, with help from the gardeners of Château de Versailles and Trianon. Biennale des Antiquaires introduced a new logo this year, a tribute to the four-horse chariot which crowns the Grand Palais and a triumphant evocation of Ancient Greece and Rome. As the must-visit event for the art market for more than 60 years, the Biennale draws together the finest art and antiques dealers who gather to present their greatest masterpieces. With an uncompromising commitment to the seriousness and professionalism of its exhibitors, the SNA continues its call for impeccable quality from art and antique members as precisely stipulated by the requirements of the “Object Admissions Committees”. The list of consultants sitting on these committees will be published soon. As in previous years, Fine Jewelry will be prestigiously represented at the event.

Grand Palais Avenue Winston Churchill 75008 Paris The Netherlands Event website www.bdafrance.eu VIP opening Wednesday september 10, 2014 Public opening Thuesday september 11, 2014 to sunday september 21, 2014 From 11 am to 8 pm Until 11 pm on thursday 11, tuesday 16 and thursday 18 Until 7 pm on sunday 21 30 € per person Catalog : 45 € Special offer : 80 € for 2 entries + catalog

THE NEW FABERGé CHARM S COLLECTION Fabergé, the world’s most iconic artist jeweller, introduces the Fabergé Charms collection, a series of precious egg-shaped charms, to be collected on a chain bracelet for a contemporary day to evening style, launching 1st October 2014. It is a long-standing tradition in Russia to gift bejewelled egg pendants for special occasions, as cherished tokens of love and friendship. Fabergé, the jeweller du jour for the international nobility and aristocracy in Imperial Russia, was the gift of choice during family gatherings and official royal visits. Fabergé gifts created a special bond between the gift-giver and the receiver; and the precious egg charms were collected and layered on necklaces and bracelets. Today, Fabergé charms showcase a modern, playful take on this tradition. Miniature versions of the most popular, much-loved Fabergé egg pendants, the charms are

available in the Treillage, Spiral, Cadeau and Emotion collections, as well as a diamond-set gold egg which can be engraved with a personal message or initials, for a bespoke gift. This series of covetable miniature egg charms shows unrivalled craftsmanship through a contemporary interpretation of traditional techniques and iconic motifs. Stylish and versatile, the intricate charms are delicately punctuated with diamonds and gemstones in captivating colours. True to its original spirit of artistry and innovation, Fabergé continues to create the treasures of tomorrow, precious hand-crafted jewels set with exceptional gemstones to pass from generation to generation. www.faberge.com

Photo courtesy of FABERGÉ © FABERGÉ

SAVE THE

DATE

FESTIVE BANGLES

BY P. N. GADGIL JEWELLERS Be it the oncoming festivals or the wedding season, the 182 year heritage brand, P. N. Gadgil Jewellers Pvt Ltd, delights its customers with its latest festive bangle collection. Rooted from the very heart of P. N. Gadgil Jewellers, the collection is crafted in 22 karat gold capturing the richness and diversity of our culture.

collection is available at P. N. Gadgil Jewellers Pvt Ltd outlets as well as their online store www.shop.pngadgil.com

About: P. N. Gadgil Jewellers Pvt Ltd is one of the most reputed jewellers with 182 years of excellence in creativity and their warm service for generations of customers all over the world that has helped a woman discover her beauty. Sculpted with artistic finesse the bangles have Under the leadership of Mr. Saurabh Gadgil , a intricate lace and filigree work, studded with strong visionary, P. N. Gadgil Jewellers Pvt Ltd red and green stones. Inspired by the beauty of is creating a brand that caters to the taste of a nature, the bangles have delicately carved modern Indian woman. floral motifs. The collection plays around with different shapes capturing the beauty of ethnic www.pngadgil.com designs infused with contemporary techniques. The collection not only gives a variety in terms of design but is also a perfect match for your festive ensembles. The Festive Bangle

Photo courtesy of P.N.GADGIL Jewellers ÂŠ P.N.GADGIL Jewellers

submissions At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. Our mission is to promote, inspire and educate, so we expect designers and brands whose work we feature to be generous with their knowledge. We always look also for talented photographers who want to show to our readers their unique creative skills and their creativity. We welcome you to submit any and all original designs, thoughts and concepts you'd like to share. Just keep in mind that we only write about jewellery made in gold, platinum or other precious metals but we never publish articles about costume jewellery. You should be eager to describe and explain aspects of craft; you should be willing to take photos of a work in progress or document the process in some way. If you would like to show us your jewellery creations to consider featuring in the website and our e-magazine, please follow the instructions as provided at www.jewelleryhistorian.com We accept submission ideas for a wide variety of topics. Please be sure to download the Submission Guidelines, which contain directions on how you can submit your material for review. The Submission Guidelines contain detailed directions for how to submit your proposals. Send us your proposal today at info@jewelleryhistorian.com or visit www.jewelleryhistorian.com for further information.

new contributor

R U O S NEW

Eva Kountouraki joins our team

Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field. She started her first collection of polished and rough gemstones at a very early age and realized that this would be her profession in the future. After studying gemology books in various languages, she attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and developed practical skills to analyze gems. For Eva time had came to accredit those skills by choosing the prestigious

Gemological Institute of America, for her studies. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design.

Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world.

“Gemstones are stunning, a world of breathtaking beauty.”

Eve is proud to be the only Greek women who has ever accomplished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and precious stones. Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jewelry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and companies,advisingandhelpingherclients to make successful purchases and investments in gemstones. She also organizes and teaches seminars for the training of gemstone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gempassionates. We know Eva for many years and she transmitted her passion & love for gemstones to many of us. At the Jewellery Historian we our proud to welcome Eva among our team. The Jewellery Historian is a website & a free e-magazine for connoisseurs and people who love not only jewellery, but also gems, design and unique craftsmanship. Our passion is to discover the work of talented artists worldwide, and to give all the energy and respect it is hidden through our passion. Their passion becomes our passion. We care only for passionate people who create unique jewellery. Our main mission is to promote, inspire and educate. For this reason we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects.

Every month, you will be able to discover through Eva's column, a different gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems.

To find all these unique talents, we need talented and passionate people around the globe to join our team. We are continually researching and looking out for new jewellery artists, trends and unique creations. Gemstones are stunning, a world of breathtaking beauty. Every month, from our next issue, you will be able to discover through Eva's column, a different gemstone and this unique breathtaking beauty. Welcome Eva.

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief

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Photo courtesy of KARA RROSS © KARA ROSS

KARA ROSS

The artist

Kara Ross New York is a luxury accessories company based in New York City known for its bold and unique designs. A certified gemologist, Kara founded the company in 2003 with the vision to create jewelry that has character and imagination. Kara Ross New York debuted with a stunning Fine Jewelry Collection, and since that time the company has rapidly grown to include the handbag, boutique, and gemstone collections. Inspired by alternative materialslikejet,lava,wood,andtitanium,Karaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sloveoftheseuniquematerials and colored stones manifests in their frequent use in both jewelry and handbags.

Photo courtesy of KARA RROSS © KARA ROSS

KARA ROSS The artist

Kara Ross fell in love with the art of jewelry making after a trip to Africa as a teenager where she brought home a native gemstone. Upon returning to her hometown of Philadelphia, her mother took her to Jeweler’s Row where she designed a square cut ring on an 18 karat gold band with diamonds. Kara has said that creating something wholly original at a young age really affected her and has guided her vision as a designer. Following graduation from Georgetown and a short stint in advertising at Harper’s Bazaar, Kara decided to pursue a career in jewelry. Kara became a certified Gemologist and for many years she used diamonds, pearls, and 18kt gold to create one-of-a-kind custom pieces for private clients. Her most famous private client to date is President Obama and the First Lady, for whom she created

exclusive gifts made from magnolia wood that originated from the White House lawn. While the initial piece was created for visiting heads of state, the collaboration has continued, and Kara continues to design gifts for esteemed visitors and employees of the White House. Kara launched her eponymous company, Kara Ross New York, in 2003 with the vision to create jewelry that has character and imagination. Kara is inspired by alternative materials like jet, lava, wood as well as precious and semi-precious gemstones in their raw, organic forms. The company debuted with a stunning Fine Jewelry Collection, which received rave reviews from editors and clients alike. The line has expanded to include handbags and the KARA by Kara Ross fashion brand. >

Photo courtesy of KARA RROSS © KARA ROSS

“The president and first lady wanted unique pieces to give to visiting heads of state, and after seeing some of my jewelry made of maple and diamonds and gold, they contacted me,” Ross says. Taken from a magnolia tree originally planted by Andrew Jackson, the wood was used to make bracelets and engraved trays presented as gifts to represent the United States. “It’s a wonderful honor,” she says, “and a fantastic way to support American artists.”

Recognized as pieces of art, Kara’s fine jewelry can now be seen at museums around the country, including the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, the Museum of Arts and Design in New York and the San Diego Natural History Museum. An special exhibition recently took place at the GIA museum in Carlsbad, California. Kara’s pieces have also been included in Ruth Peltason’s book “Living Jewels – Masterpieces from Nature”. Kara Ross is an award winning designer. In 2014, she won the GEM Award for Design from the Jewelry Information Center. In 2012, Kara was chosen as one of the International Designers of Distinction by The Silver Promotion service and was also honored with the Women’s Jewelry Association Excellence in Design Award. In 2008, she was honored with Fashion Group International’s “Rising Star” Award for Jewelry Design. In 2013 she opened the first Kara Ross boutique at 655 Madison Avenue in New York; interior designer and architect Tony Ingrao partnered with Kara to create an environment that highlights Ross’s fine jewelry and handbags. The result is an urban feel with warmth: an excellent mix of function and style.

Photo courtesy of KARA RROSS © KARA ROSS

www.kararossny.com

Photo courtesy of KARA RROSS © KARA ROSS

Photo courtesy of Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier © Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

travel

Töölönlahti means Töölö bay in Finnish. It is a park in the heart of Helsinki and a very popular walking and jogging area. Located in the heart of Helsinki Töölönlahti is one of the most beautiful parks and a great spot to admire the beauty of Finnish nature.

Hotel k채mp Hotel K채mp is housed in a beautiful 19th century building, opposite the Esplenade Park in the heart of Helsinki. It offers spacious rooms that combine historical elegance with modern facilities. At Hotel K채mp, experience the luxury of timeless elegance and European glamour. In the spacious hotel rooms of the most luxurious hotel in Helsinki, enjoy your stay whether you're on a business trip or vacation.Definitely a great place to stay for a unique experience right in the heart of Helsinki and few metters from department stores and boutiques.

www.hotelkamp.com

Hotel KLAUS K The Klaus K is a contemporary design hotel in Helsinki's city centre, marking the first of Helsinki's lifestyle hotel with a modern and fun feel. Located in the late 19th-century Rake building, the hotel Klaus K is inspired by Finland's national epic, the Kalevala, with each of the 137 playful guestrooms boasting a theme that illustrates the Kalevala's primary emotional elements: desire, passion, mysticism, and envy. Yet at the same time, this Helsinki hotel aspires to go even further, to "take the hotel out of the hotel," creating an ultra-designed lifestyle experience.

www.klauskhotel.com

Helsinki is a sea-town par excellence and an exciting, dynamic place.Halfthecityseemstobewater.Unlikeothercapitals,youfeel that people go to places because they enjoy them, not to be seen. Definitely a great place to visit or to live.

Photo courtesy of DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH © DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH The beauty of nature

Like any epic story, the history of diamonds is one of mystery, intrigue, and great romance. Long before the first known instance of human life, diamonds graced the Earth with their natural beauty and mystical allure. In 2005, Diamond in the Rough re-introduced the beauty of rough, natural diamonds into modern jewelry, quickly becoming the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest natural roughdiamondjewelrybrand.Inspiredbytheuntouchedanduniqueshape of each rough diamond, the company creates one of a kind pieces unlike anything the world has ever seen before. Just as it was done so many years ago, the beauty of the natural diamond is celebrated and is never refined or changed from its original and perfect form.

Diamonds are formed at great depths within a layer of the Earth called the mantle. They crystallize at extremely high pressures and the process is thought to take over a billion years to complete. These rare gemstones are brought to the Earth’s surface in the form of molten rock or magma.

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

Photo courtesy of DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH © DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

The word “diamond” conjures many thoughts and feelings. It symbolizes strength, being the hardest substance in the world, and is thus the perfect representation of a lifelong commitment. The word “diamond” itself is derived from the Greek word “adamas,” which means “indestructible” and “unconquerable.”

The beauty of nature In 2005, Diamond in the Rough re-introduced the beauty of rough, natural diamonds into modern jewelry, quickly becoming the world’s finest natural rough diamond jewelry brand. Inspired by the untouched and unique shape of each rough diamond, the company creates one of a kind pieces unlike anything the world has ever seen before. Just as it was done so many years ago, the beauty of the natural diamond is celebrated and is never refined or changed from its original and perfect form.

"We source the majority of our one-of-a-kind, conflict-free diamonds from South Africa, Russia, and Australia."

Photo courtesy of DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH ÂŠ DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

Diamond in the Rough is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading natural, rough diamond jewelry brand. Inspired by the unique design of each rough diamond, we redefine perceptions of diamond jewelry by showcasing the inherent beauty of these gemstones in their untouched form.

highest priority and you can rest assured when purchasing a piece of their jewelery.

The diamonds used in Diamond in the Rough pieces are evaluated on a variety of measurable factors including carat weight, color, and natural shape, but also on their inherent beauty and Diamond in the Rough was founded by Daniel rarity in nature. Since each of our diamonds are Eskapa in 2005 and first launched at Bergdorf one of a kind, they cannot be measured using a Goodman, with Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth typical standardized scale. Instead, like a work of Avenue following suit shortly after, later art, each diamond is carefully examined for its expanding globally to select independent profound beauty and its occurrence as a natural retailers in London, Switzerland, and South phenomena. Korea. Today, unique fine jewelry and engagement rings from Diamond in the Rough They examine thousands of rough diamonds for are appreciated all over the world. the most unique in color, shape and radiance and ultimately choose only a few to bear their name. Diamond in the Rough is the only jewelry They go through great measures to find only the company that uses natural rough diamonds of best representations of natural diamonds to this caliber and they bring only the finest showcase in their pieces. Each individual stone is diamonds to each of their clients. They only studied, and a setting worthy of showcasing its source conflict-free diamonds that are certified brilliance is created in response to its natural by the Kimberley Process. Ethical sourcing is their characteristics.>

Photo courtesy of DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH © DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

One of a kind

design

because there is nothing more precious than a diamond & love.

Diamond in the Rough is the only jeweler to undergo such a painstaking process while others would pay very little, if any, attention to the stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural beauty. Every piece is designed with a specific stone in mind. Their team reviews each individual gemstone, studying its unique texture, shape, color, and characteristics which drew us to it.>

Photos courtesy of DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH ÂŠ DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

Apart from jewelry, the origin of an engagement ring is thought to date back thousands of years to ancient Rome where the poet Plautus first used a ring to symbolize his love. Officially recognized as the first diamond engagement ring, however, was Archduke Maximilian of Austriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gift to Mary Burgundy a mere 24 hours before their formal marriage ceremony in 1477. Since then, the design, value, and nature of these rings have changed dramatically, but other aspects like their placement have remained constant. Engagement and wedding rings were traditionally worn on the fourth finger of the left hand as it was believed that a vein in that finger led directly to the human heart. The practice continues to this day.

The first step in the creation of the ring is sourcing the rough diamond, which is always the focal point of the design. Since there are so few people in the world that have access to rough diamonds, they have the unique opportunity to acquire gemstones with different shapes and distinctive character for our clients. Whereas other manufacturers care little about the natural beauty of the rough, as they will later cut and facet the rough diamond into almost a completely different gemstone, their job requires much more time, patience, and artistic integrity. They examine thousands of rough diamonds to find just one or two that are naturally striking enough to to bear our name.

www.diamondintherough.com

Photos courtesy of DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH © DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

>Some diamond’s proportions lend themselves better to one of our bridal boutique settings than another, while others are so large or uniquely shaped that they deserve a design all their own. These exceptional stones ultimately become part of our “Exclusives” collection. They draw our inspiration from the diamond itself, and carefully sketch designs that best showcase the diamond’s natural beauty. They examine the sketch to assess technical aspects like ratios, space, number of pavé diamonds needed, which side the stone will be set on, etc. and sometimes we may go through as many as 25 sketches before deciding on the final blueprint. Unlike traditional jewelry, every one of their settings is

designed and hand-crafted uniquely for that stone. It is a much more labor-intensive process, but it yields extraordinary results. Knowing just how your one of a kind Diamond in the Rough engagement ring is made is important, but knowing that it will be a beautiful and unique symbol of your lifelong love is paramount. Their sorting process is so discerning and so selective that even if every bride desired a Diamond in the Rough ring, it would be impossible to match every woman with a diamond that would be up to our standards further cementing the fact that each our rings are incredibly unique and special.

Their unique jewelry is for the woman who is confident, sophisticated, self-assured, and a fashion leader. She is a lover of the truly unique, with her individuality ultimately reflected in her choice of diamonds.

Photo courtesy of DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH © DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

The beauty of the diamond rough Photo courtesy of DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH © DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

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Photos courtesy of CROW'S NEST © CROW'S NEST

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CROW'S NEST visually breathtaking

CROWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEST is the phenomenal fine jewellery line by 27-year-old Daniel-Phillip Belevitch. A dynamic young designer of Russian heritage, with a unique eye for contemporary design, Belevitch created his debut collections through his vision to celebrate uncompromised quality and impeccable craftsmanship.

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CROWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEST is the phenomenal fine jewellery line by 27-year-old DanielPhillip Belevitch. A dynamic young designer of Russian heritage, with a unique eye for contemporary design, Belevitch created his debut collections through his vision to celebrate uncompromised Daniel-Phillip Belevitch quality and impeccable craftsmanship.

CROW'S NEST visually breathtaking

CROW’S NEST is the phenomenal fine jewellery line by 27-year-old DanielPhillip Belevitch. A dynamic young designer of Russian heritage, with a unique eye for contemporary design, Belevitch created his debut collections through his vision to celebrate uncompromised quality and impeccable craftsmanship.

Photos courtesy of CROW'S NEST © CROW'S NEST

Daniel founded Crow’s Nest with a desire to fulfil the void in imaginative fine jewellery for both men and women, and thus created his first collections, ‘Dream Feather’, ‘Believe it or Not’, ‘Deluxe Russian Nature plays inspiration to Crow’s Nest, Grooves’, ‘Jungle Fever’, capturing the magnificence of our natural ‘Who Needs A Rose?’, world into elegant statement pieces. The ‘Snatch’, ‘Secret Keeper’ majesty of jewels is showcased and ‘Amulet’. throughout the exquisite collections using only the finest precious and semi His ethos is to create stones including white and black striking fine jewellery to diamonds, garnet, blue topaz and also satisfy the wildest of black spinell beads in his first collection imaginations and . Each piece is set in 18kt gold with a vivid specialises in bespoke pear shaped green tsavorite, signature to jewellery design, each CROW’S NEST design. creating pieces beyond limitations.

“My interpretation of the fine art and antiques which filled my home as a child influenced my vision for the jewellery designs that you see in my collections today. I believe the best inspiration comes from the past, embracing the history that has shaped our presence today. My collections are not confined to any mould, I want each piece to be visually breathtaking in design and bring fine jewellery to a new contemporary platform.” All CROW’S NEST fine jewellery is handcrafted in Austria and available from Five Story in NYC, Roseark in LA, Boutique 1 in Monaco,K11 in St Tropez & Monaco and soon to launch at Tsum in Russia.

Photos courtesy of CROW'S NEST © CROW'S NEST

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Photos courtesy of CROW'S NEST © CROW'S NEST

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Photos courtesy of CROW'S NEST © CROW'S NEST

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www.crowsnestjewels.com

Photos courtesy of CROW'S NEST ÂŠ CROW'S NEST

HELSINKI

Photo courtesy of Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier ÂŠ Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

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Photo courtesy of ORLOV © ORLOV

ORLOV Precious dream

Amazing Emeralds come from Columbia, rubies and sapphires from Burma, Africa and Sri Lanka - they are carefully selected and set by professional hands of Italian master jewelers.

Photo courtesy of ORLOV ÂŠ ORLOV

ORLOV jewelry designs and manufactures highend jewelry specializing in precious gemstones. They are involved in every stage of the jewelry making process - from sourcing of each precious gemstone to the final setting of each jewelry piece.

ORLOV Precious dream

The ORLOV family business, which was founded in 2010, is run by husband and wife team, Angela Orlova and Christian Orlov. Christian Orlov, CEO of ORLOV jewelry Ltd and Absolutesolid Ltd. has over 20 years of experience in the diamond and precious gemstone business and travels around the world, selecting only the finest precious gems and diamonds. "We are involved in every stage of the jewelry making process - from sourcing of each precious gemstone to the final setting of each jewelry piece" says Christian Orlov. Angela Orlova, Head of design team, a graduate of the State University of St. Petersburg in Russia, the Sotheby's and Christie's institutes of art in London always wanted to incorporate her love for art with her interest in fashion.

Designing jewelry accommodated both of those passions. Their designs are inspired by ancient cultures, art and nature but mostly by the precious gemstones themselves. The Orlov collection consists of colorful extravagant pieces and as well of classical jewelry, which makes the beauty of each gemstone stand out. The focus of a ORLOV design is and has always been the stone itself. The ORLOV brand is positioned at the pinnacle of the luxury jewellery market, with a product offering unmatched by our publicly traded hard luxury peers. The brand is underpinned by our heritage of consistently high quality jewellery that blends truly exceptional gemstones and diamonds with exquisite design and craftsmanship. >

Photo courtesy of ORLOV © ORLOV

> Their focus to a target market of high and ultra high net worth customers has allowed them to maintain a high level of brand credibility, consistency and exclusivity which differentiates them from accessible and aspirational luxury jewellers. "We categorise our jewellery by price bands: less than US$100,000; US$100,000 to less than US$1 million; US$1 million to less than US$10 million; and US$10 million and above. " says Christian Orlov. "We primarily use unheated and untreated precious gemstones perfect in color, clarity and cut, including sapphires, rubies and emeralds in combination with diamonds that are rated G and above for colour and VS2 and above for clarity, as certified by the GIA. " The design aesthetic of all of our jewellery focuses primarily on precious gemstones." says Angela. "We are involved in every stage of the jewelry making process - from sourcing of each gemstone to the final setting of each jewelry piece. " Emeralds we buy from Columbia, Rubies from Burma, Madagascar and Mozambique, and Blue Sapphires from Burma and Sri Lanka - they are carefully selected and set by professional hands of Italian master jewelers in our factory in Valenza, Italy. We produce around 50 pieces of jewellery a year -each piece is unique."

www.orlovjewelry.com

Photo courtesy of ORLOV © ORLOV

RECYCLING IS A RESPONSIBILITY WE ALL SHARE

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Photo courtesy of Eleuterio ÂŠ Eleuterio

C I R O T HIS ND BRA

ELEUTERIO the filigree master

The Portuguese jewellery house Eleuterio is an expert in fine jewels in gold with filigree technique. Eleuterio joins the traditions of the past and a contemporary look, skillfully uniting the art of filigree and the modern tendencies of the jewellery industry. Blending an elegant and creative signature with classic style for contemporary feel, each piece is a unique mix of heritage and excellence.

ELEUTERIO the filigree master It all began in 1895 when Manuel Joaquim Antunes started revealing the secrets of goldsmith mastership to his son Eleutério Antunes. Thirty years later, in 1925 in Travassos, Portugal, in the heart of the region known for its crafted goldsmith traditions, Eleutério Antunes founded his first workshop. Across the decades Eleuterio has created spectacular pieces of filigree work presented at the highest official levels, both in Portugal and abroad, granting Eleuterio recognition and fame for its great elegance and crafted perfection. For over 80 years, Eleuterio continued to be a family-owned business and today the third generation of the Antunes family, Luís and Rosa Antunes, give the company its new incitement. In its spectacular pieces, Eleuterio joins the traditions of the past and a contemporary look, skilfully uniting the filigree art and the modern tendencies of the jewellery industry, making timeless jewels and giving this almost lost and forgotten craftsmanship a new beginning. >

Photo courtesy of Eleuterio ÂŠ Eleuterio

>Eleuterio produces fine jewelery inspired by the filigree art, with contemporary design, being the first to combine the tradition of this art with the demanding nowadays. The pieces are produced by craftsmen with decades of experience in the art of handmade, distinguishing factor compared to other brands, giving them a high standard of quality and workmanship. Forerunner in the use of diamonds and other precious stones with filigree, Eleuterio stands out by emerging in the international market for its distinctive aesthetic and the tradition combined with innovation.

Photo courtesy of Eleuterio ÂŠ Eleuterio

Expertise in fine Jewels in gold with filigree technique, the Portuguese jewelery house Eleuterio, combines the traditions of the past with a contemporary look, uniting masterfully the filigree heritage with the latest trends in the jewelery industry. Elegant pieces reveal the fusion between classic style and modern features, in a unique blend of ancestral lines and sophistication. >

Photo courtesy of Eleuterio ÂŠ Eleuterio

Eleuterio designs and produces high jewelery for refinement lovers and the pieces are handmade in Portugal, according to traditional methods by the high jewelery best craftsmen and reflect an environment of cosmopolitan luxury. Eleuterio maison presents the world an audacious vision, that dares to go beyond the costumes instituted by tradition. On the other hand, the brand is provided with a unique and expert production unit and a accumulated mastery over the years, provided by artisans, with rare technical skills, in line with those that are required by the hard and laborious white and pink gold. The reinterpretation and originality of the brand are not based only in the use of new materials, but also in the adoption of stylized and geometric shapes in his compositions, challenging the romantic and usual inspiration of traditional filigree.

>Always keeping in mind the filigree tradition, Eleuterio stands out for the attention to detail to produce unique and delicate pieces. Some of their collections, focus in the filigree and are inspired in the eighteenth century, in the timelessness and engraving gold, as forms of celebration of art. 1925 Collection, Oriental Heritage and even Venezia collections are some exemples of it. Others, have more contemporary influences and design, such as Couture Filigree, Arty or even Art Deco that is inspired in the international design movement by the same name, bringing to daylight, geometrized filigree jewelery with synthetic and strict lines, pure forms and exquisitely ornamented with diamond and different types of gold. Eleuterio works all its collections and pieces to make them memorable and amazing, dictating trends, defining periods, styles and moments. At the Jewellery Historian we had a look to their collections and we can say few things about them.

Photo courtesy of Eleuterio ÂŠ Eleuterio

The Arty collection is an intricate interpretation of Byzantine Motifs but it is far from being related to the past. A delicate diamonds frame designs a geometric and elegant patter trough an engraved gold surface, this two combined techniques share an incomparable sparkle. Pieces with yellow gold and black rhodium on the setting with brilliant cut diamonds and perfectly hand engraved.>

Photo courtesy of Eleuterio ÂŠ Eleuterio

>The Flora collection is inspired by the flowers and its absolute feminineness, celebrates the free forms designed by nature, making the perfect frame for the delicacy of the handmade filigree. An exquisite diamond pave ensures a very light and graceful shine. In yellow gold and handmade filigree completed with brilliant cut diamonds. The Couture Filigree requires exceptional techniques that can only be compared to "Haute Couture" with thin gold filaments that draw traditional Portuguese filigree with an extreme delicacy revealing an extraordinary craftsmanship. A pave diamond frame follows and protects the shapes of this intricate work. Some pieces are in white gold with brilliant cut diamonds and others in yellow gold with black ruthenium. All the pieces with the handmade filigree touch. From the foundation of Eleuterio, the 1925 collection leads them to the brand's heritage, where tradition reaches its highest expression. The braided gold among the many other forms used in the 1925 Collection, reflect all the ancient knowledge passed along for decades trough the three Eleuterio generations. >

Photo courtesy of Eleuterio ÂŠ Eleuterio

The Art Deco collection, is a special collection that pays tribute to the pioneers of Art Deco movement that flourished in the twenties. An homage to a generation of jewelers who were the creators of the revolutionary aesthetic measure that refined the art of that period. The pieces from this collection are a gathering of elements of filigree in white gold with diamonds. As for the Deco Filigree, simple geometry and absolute elegance characterize this collection, however this linear and minimalist shape only enhances the intricate and detailed richness of the art of Portuguese filigree. In yellow gold and brilliant cut diamonds hand engraved. Each Eleuterio piece reflects elegance and refinement. With timeless collections, the design is one of the most important aspects of the brand. Luxury and sophistication are some of the features that can be found in their pieces, where detail is everything. The Lace collection is one of the latest and one of our favorites. Involving and embracing, the Lace collection leads us to a dimension where tenderness reaches its ultimate exponent through delicate lines with bold flashes, that reveal an elegance and dominant female power. Unveiling an utopia, these pieces bring to real life a particular feminility, where the shapes transmit and elicit deeper feelings of tender and refinement. Eleuterio personality, is build in the fusion of technical and manual skills of the artisans with the creative passion of designers. Inspired in the best classical canons, but designed for the contemporary lifestyle, all of their pieces are produced by hand, combining culture, tradition and the skill of the craftsmen with the latest technology. To all this joins secular tradition and minuteness in the manufacture of gold filigree and the use of precious stones.>

>Meeting Eleuterio team was a unique and great moment. We were able to discover that they work in a dynamic process of innovation, both technological and of design, which requires a constant reinterpretation of the brand. That is why, there are aspects that are fundamental to Eleuterio, such as the high quality of the final product and the finishes. Each piece follows a rigorous quality control and and extremely careful handling. They have for sure great products, but one of their greatest talents is that they are passionate about what they do and it inspires them during the creation and manufacturing process. They believe that their pieces should have a distinctive and individual character. They try to keep with their connoisseurs long and lasting relationships based in the excellence of their products. This is the result of love and dedication, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all this passion that every owner of an Eleuterio jewellery piece definitely feels.

www.eleuteriojewels.com

Photo courtesy of Eleuterio ÂŠ Eleuterio

Next month, discover the unique creative universe of Farah Khan Fine Jewellery, with exclusive "backstage" photos

Carla Amorim Brazilian Passion

The abundance of nature in Brazil coupled with the stunning modern architectural work of Oscar Niemeyer are brought together in Carla Amorim's jewelry creations. These contemporary, fresh and feminine designs make exquisite use of the remarkable variety of precious Brazilian stones, gold and diamonds.

Carla Amorim Brazilian Passion Brazilian jewelry designer, Carla Amorim, created her brand in 1992. Carlaʼs work has four major influences from her native Brazil Architecture, Faith, Nature and Brazilian Culture. “I started making jewelry for me to wear, which people then began to praise,” says Amorim. Then, one day, she realized she had found her calling. “I had the insight that creating jewelry was my gift, and that I should follow this path professionally.” Carlaʼs work has four major influences from her native Brazil - Architecture, Faith, Nature and Brazilian Culture. Her first jewelry pieces were inspired by the aerial views of the architecturally rich city of Brasília. The angles and sweeping lines of the city’s beautiful cathedral, palaces, monuments and the National Congress of Brazil are solemnly mesmerizing. The work of world-famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer has inspired Amorim’s jewelry ever since. Brazil’s nature is another source of inspiration. “Its colors, shapes and movements are simply incredible, whether fruits, flowers, waterfalls, sand dunes or the sea,” she says.

Carlaʼs work is contemporary, fresh, feminine, and delicate. She makes excellent use of the remarkable variety of Brazilian stones that furnish her work with radiance and color.

The stones themselves are at the center of each masterpiece created by Carla Amorim, from drop earrings that mimic palm fronds and the shape and color of pistachio nuts, to a collection of faceted cocktail rings named after herbs, spices and delectable desserts. All her pieces use 18 carat gold, in yellow, white, rose and black and are produced in Sao Paulo, Brazil, at her own facility. Her atelier is in Brasília, where she lives with her husband and twin sons. CARLA AMORIM, the company, is now 20 years old, has more than 120 employees. CARLA AMORIM jewelry is available in her 7 freestanding stores in Brazil and also in the most prestigious stores across the world. Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, Tsum in Moscow, Rustanʼs in Phillipines, London Jewelers in United States and Harvey Nichols in UK among others.

“I started making jewelry for me to wear, which people then began to praise,” says Amorim. Then, one day, she realized she had found her calling. “I had the insight that creating jewelry was my gift, and that I should follow this path professionally.”

www.carlaamorim.com

Our

FAV

VES Every month we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose, enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life.

Our faves Jewellery gives you experience glamour, luxury, and elegance. With the right jewellery you can cherish the special memories and intimate luxury that a real piece of jewelry will bring to you on important days of your life. At the Jewellery Historian, every month, we handpick the finest jewelry for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. We are proud to present you our selection of amazing and unique jewellery, created by designers we love their work. A selection of jewellery made by the Jewellery Historian for you.

All rigns by BAYCO PRÊT-À-PORTER COLLECTION

Our faves

MARTIN KATZ

JEWELLERY THEATRE

L'DEZEN

LAUREN X KHOO ADLER ELEUTERIO

ORLOV

BAYCO

Rings DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

SHAWISH

CROW'S NEST

FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

Our faves

ORLOV KARA ROSS

BAYCO FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

Earrings FABERGÉ

CARLA AMORIM

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

ELEUTERIO MARTIN KATZ

Our faves

FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

ORLOV

CELLINI Jewelers

BORGIONI

KARA ROSS

Bracelets

ILIAS LALAOUNIS

Our faves

FABERGÉ

Bracelets

CARLA AMORIM

BAYCO

MARTIN KATZ

ELEUTERIO

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

address book ADLER www.adler-joailliers.com AVAKIAN www.avakian.com BAYCO www.bayco.com BORGIONI www.borgionis.com BUCCELLATI www.buccellati.com CARLA AMORIM www.carlaamorim.com CELLINI Jewelers www.cellinijewelers.com DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH www.diamondintherough.com ELEUTERIO www.eleuteriojewels.com FABERGÉ www.faberge.com FARAH KHAN Fine Jewellery www.farahkhan.net ILIAS LALAOUNIS www.iliaslalaounis.com MARTIN KATZ www.martinkatz.com JEWELLERY THEATRE www.jewellerytheatre.com KARA ROSS www.kararossny.com LAUREN X KHOO www.laurenxkhoo.com L'DEZEN www.ldezen.com LEYLA ABDOLLAHI www.leyla-abdollahi.com MARTIN KATZ www.martinkatz.com ORLOV www.orlovjewelry.com SHAWISH www.shawish.ch

back cover

Photo : Bangle bracelet by Farah Khan Photo courtesy ofFarah Khan Fine Jewellery © Farah Khan Fine Jewellery www.farahkhan.net

join our team The Jewellery Historian is a website & a free e-magazine for connoisseurs and people who love not only jewellery, but also design and unique craftsmanship. Our passion is to discover the work of talented artists worldwide, and to give all the energy and respect it is hidden through our passion. Their passion becomes our passion. We care only for passionate people who create unique jewellery. Our main mission is to promote, inspire and educate and for this reason we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. To find all these unique talents, we need talented and passionate people around the globe to join our team. To join our team you must be an enthusiastic leader and a great communicator. Continually researching and looking out for new jewellery artists, trends and unique creations. We are looking for talented, hard-working, multi-tasking and creative self-starters to join our team. All our positions are aimed at the motivated individual who wants to build a career. At the Jewellery Historian, experience is important, but for us passion and commitment are even more important than experience. You must speak, write and understand english, since english is our working language, but any foreign language is a plus. A previous experience in journalism/marketing/advertising/digital media/fashion is a plus. You need a positive personality, to be willing to work with us to strengthen our position and to promote our work. Please note that at the Jewellery Historian we do not have and/or offer any salary position. All

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