Jewellery Historian, issue #07 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

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inside this issue 36 LEVIAN Le Vian, fine jewelers with an illustrious history. The house of Le Vian is famed for jewelry that combines a reverence for the past with a passion for defining future trends.

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-HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ 09 Editor's Letter Editor-in-chief, Lucas SamaltanosFerrier writes about the passion of creativity..

12 ISSUE GLOBE Meet the designers featured in this issue.

62 SETHI COUTURE The Sethi Couture jewelry line from San Francisco-based designer Pratima Sethi is an intricate mix of an old world charm yet contemporary glamour.

88 JORGE ADELER Born and raised in Argentina with a deep appreciation and love for the gemstones, he moved to the United States in the early 70â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and opened Adeler Jewelers and honed his skills in design through the years.

114 PASQUALE BRUNI Pasquale Bruni was drawn into the world of jewellery as a very young boy in the workshops of Valenza, the center for the production of jewellery in Italy. He rapidly mastered the techniques and learned the secrets of the goldsmith's trade, as well as one of the fundamental traits of the firm: a keen eye for detail.

Ę&#x2DC; 14 NEWS Our team brings to you the latest news from the jewellery universe.

24 NICOLE LANDAW Nicole Landawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sensuous surfaces and seductive, innovative forms have quickly established her as one of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading young jewelry designers. Nicoleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jewelry has been acknowledged by Gen Artâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Design Vision Award and the American Jewelry Design Councilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s New Talent Grand Prize and can be seen in numerous books, films and television series.

74 ANASTAZIO Anastazio is always aiming for the very best quality, innovative design and uniqueness. His passion is creating exceptional high jewelry masterpieces, whose purpose is to inspire beauty and confidence.

138 BEAUTY OF GEMS The unique breathtaking beauty of gems, the monthly column of Eva introduces us to a unique world, full of gems and beauty.

146 OUR FAVES At the Jewellery Historian, every month, we handpick the finest jewelry for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life.

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issue globe In every issue we introduce to you, jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. Meet the artists featured in this issue.

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news Boutique openings, coffee table books, auctions, exhibitions & events. Everything new jewellery lovers must know, is here.

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new design Jewellery Historian introduces new layout

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competition

* : Large “Centaurea” pendant, diameter 3.1mm, in gold plated silver with a polished finish and a black silk cord. Retail price 160 euro

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Nicole Landaw

Jewellery that merges natural elements and modern aesthetics

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Everything started few years ago, when Sarah Jessica Parker chose a pair of Nicole Landawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s earrings to wear on Sex & the City.

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"When first I discovered that I could move metal to create expressive forms, I was captivated,â&#x20AC;? she recalls. "And that sense of possibility and enchantment is still with me and calls me to the bench."

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cover story

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LE VIAN DISTINCTION FINE JEWELLERY WITH AN ILLUSTRIOUS HISTORY

ThehouseofLeVianisfamedforjewelrythatcombinesareverence for the past with a passion for defining future trends. Le Vian jewelers have been purveyors of fine jewelry in Persia since the 15thcentury.Thefamily,however,cantraceitsancestrybackmore than 2500 years to the ancient Levi tribe, one of the 12 tribes of IsraeldescendedfromJacob.Theirsisasagaofendurance,offaith and, ultimately, of spiritual triumph.

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JORGE ADELER For more than 35 years, some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most luxurious jewels have been handcrafted by Jorge Adeler. Meet the artist who uses the most precious gemstones, platinum and gold as his canvas. From his hands and rich imagination spring extraordinary masterpieces.

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"When purchasing a piece of colored gemstone jewelry, consider your favorite colors or tonal families. Do you dress in bright primary colors? Do you favor soft pastels? Maybe you feel best in black and white? Do you prefer warm or cool tones? Regardless of your answer, there is a perfect colored gemstone for you. And regardless of your budget, you can afford a colored gemstone to add to your jewelry wardrobe."

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"There is a perfect colored gemstone for you. And regardless of your budget, you can afford a colored gemstone to add to your jewelry wardrobe."

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"Through his over 30 years of travel in the world of gems and his subsequent accumulation of knowledge and contacts in the field of gemology, Jorge Adeler has been able to hone in on the finest sources for gemstones, pearls, Italian gold and shipwreck coins."

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"Adeler Jewelers has become world renowned for their unique designs. Generations of loyal clientele seek Adeler Jewels, which showcase unusual stones, exotic pearls and ancient coins."

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Jewelry is an outward expression of one's personality. It is a small glimpse into the person who wears it. Imagine it is like inviting someone into your living space, your home. A person who loves modern art and clean lines would probably not, by choice, have a classic French sofa or old fashion oil paintings. And a person who relishes the classic and rich traditions of history would likely not have a Lucite cube table and modern art on their walls. Similarly, jewelry should reflect the wearer. Through the choice of materials and the design of a piece, we can facilitate that expression. Bold and brilliant or classic and timeless, or a wonderful combination of the two....there is not a limit...that is the beauty of custom!

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"To be able to understand a gem, first one has to understand its origin, its people, its country and its hidden emotion."

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A magical & enigmatic world

A piece of jewellery created by Pasquale Bruni is more than a simple precious object, it is a work of art that charms with its minute details. It reflects every woman and tells every woman's story. It speaks of character and seduction, grace and femininity, dreams and mystery, force and passion.Through symbols, irresistible forms and suggestive colours it communicates beauty, love, stars and dreams, sun andlight,flowersandpoetry.Amagicalandenigmaticworld. The world of Pasquale Bruni.

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MANDALA Mandala blossoms from the lotus flower. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the power of color, fused with an intimate and fascinating light and a labyrinth of emotions from which one emerges full of regenerative energy and the fascinating warmth of light. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The woman is a goddess, each petal encloses emotions and mysteries. The jewel must represent her soul and exalt her lightâ&#x20AC;?.

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BON TON

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The five-petal flower, an icon of the Italian jewelry designer Pasquale Bruni, vibrantly comes to life and seductively blooms anew in the luxurious enchanted garden of the maison. The Bon Ton collection features versatile jewelry with romantic yet casual style. Bon Ton is a jewel that a woman can wear during all the special moments of her day.

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LIBERTY ALEANDRA Butterflies full of elegance and charm become precious pieces of jewelry with surprising designs, where the characteristic pavé of the brand lights up the wings of these enchanting little creatures. -HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ

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“In my youth I was inclined towards tailoring. Moving to Valenza, however, brought me into touch with the world of jewelry, a world which immediately fascinated me. At the age of fourteen, I started to work as a goldsmith in an artisan’s workshop and when I gained the right level of knowledge I decided to product my own creations based on shapes and forms that were at that time unheard of in the world of fine jewelry. Images of my homeland, Calabria, with its radiant sun, it’s star stuffed skies and it’s cobalt blue sea – ever present before my eyes – have inspired my work. Fine jewelry was not a family tradition, but it is now...”

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GHIRLANDA Femininity and strength. Are the key words that describe the jewels of ‘70 Queen collection, a time travel amidst the mysterious sparkling of black spinel centered in the heart of lotus flowers, living in the brilliance of white diamonds, while pouring drops of white kogolon and black onyx, as longing secrets of a remote past, breathtaking jewels with a contemporary soul.

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Eugenia Bruni

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This unique Omi PrivĂŠ awardwinning tsavorite garnet and diamond ring includes a 7.10 carat cushion tsavorite garnet center stone.

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The unique breathtaking beauty of gems

Garnet

by Eva Kountouraki

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Spessartite garnet discovered in the mid 1800's in Spessart, Bavaria. For decades, the best known spessartite source was the Little Three Mine and Hercules Mine, located in San Diego, California. Once a rare collector's gem, the brilliant orange garnet started to grow in popularity in 1990's, after the discovery of deposits in Namibia and later, Nigeria. Today, the Spessartite is one of the most popular of all garnets. It is highly desired by collectors, jewelry designers and gem lovers. -HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Uvarovite is another green garnet that usually occurs as tiny crystals that form a dense bed that covers the surface of the host rock (called drusy encrustations); this gives the designers and jewelers the freedom to create unique pieces with it, by carving it in various shapes. â&#x20AC;? These amazing Kara Ross earrings have been previously shown in our issue 3

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Tsavorite is the most famous green garnet, named after the Tsavo National park of Kenya where it was first mined. Its strong green colour makes it a beautiful and high quality alternative to the more popular gem emerald.â&#x20AC;? This unique Omi PrivĂŠ ring has a 3.82 carat tsavorite garnet center stone accented with 0.09 carats of round fancy yellow diamonds and 0.08 carats of round diamonds set in platinum with 18K yellow gold.

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Our Faves Everymonth,wehandpickthefinestjewelleryfor you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life.

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Ring by MOUSSON ATELIER

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Our Faves

JEWELLERY THEATRE

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BAYCO

ORLOV JEWELRY

LEYLA ABDOLLAHI

MARTIN KATZ OMI PRIVÉ -HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ

Our Faves

FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

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ADLER JOAILLIERS

ANASTAZIO

JEWELLERY THEATRE -HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ

Our Faves

ADLER JOAILLIERS

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OMI PRIVÉ

MATTHEW CAMPBELL LAURENZA DANIELA VILLEGAS

LE VIAN

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Our Faves

JACK VARTANIAN

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JEWELLERY THEATRE

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CARLA AMORIM -HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ

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ADLER JOAILLIERS

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OMI PRIVÉ

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KATHERINE JETTER

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address book brands featured in this issue

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