Jewellery Historian, issue #09 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian

#09

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#09

April 2015

musts news

cover story portraits

inspiration

Editor's Letter Passion for creativity

Issue Globe The designers at a glance

Christie's amazing jewels to shine in New York

Basel World strengthens its leadership position

Entice At Basel World 2015

Sotheby's Magnificent jewels in New York

Maria Kondakova Designer's passion jewellery

Maria Kondakova The passionate artist

Todd Pownell Respect for the innate properties

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JazyChic In touch with the stars

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Garrard 280 years of rich heritage

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Tourmaline The breathtaking beauty of gems

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Our Faves we introduce you to our Secret Garden

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EsthĂ¨te the editor's favorite for this month

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Jewellery Historian ISSUE 09, YEAR 01 APRIL 2015 Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-chief

*** CONTRIBUTORS Eva Kountouraki Martin Huynh Christina Rodopoulou

***

LAY-OUT & DESIGN Jewellery Historian

*** www.jewelleryhistorian.com info@jewelleryhistorian.com

*** For a free subscription visit www.jewelleryhistorian.com

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editor 's letter

Creation This period is one of the most creative periods of the year. We are delighted to discover the amazing new creations of talented artists and we are proud to showcase them to you. It is also a period of unique auctions that allow to buyers to bid on historical jewellery, created by the most talented artists for the most prestigious Maisons. Creation is a process that never stops. An artist will source inspiration in everything surrounding him or her. The creation of beautiful or significant never ends. In the perspective of the history of art, artistic works have existed for almost as long as human kind. Jewellery is definitely a form of artistic creation. All art consists of a concept embedded in a medium. In every issue, we work to showcase the most talented jewellery designers, the ones that are unique artists. Their work is a artistic creation of emotions and full of emotions. The concept is what the artist wants to show to the audience. Working with the most talented goldsmiths they succeed by combining imagination to skills and to precious metals and breathtaking gemstones, to offer to us jewellery lovers, the creations that make us dream. Their creations are the ones that will capture our unique moments and make them a part of our personal history. Then, the sentimental value of each piece, makes it precious. Once more, I would like to wekcome you to our new issue, an issue full of unique creations. I would like to welcome you to our "fairytale", full of gorgeous jewellery, unique gemstones and the most important full of creativity and passion.

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief

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issue globe In every issue we introduce to you, jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. Meet the artists & columnists featured in this issue.

Maria KONDAKOVA Born in Moscow, Maria spent her childhood there, growing up in a family which enjoyed travelling and exploring new places. This instilled curiosity and passion for expressing herself through art. Afters studyies in London, at Central Saint Martins, in Art and Design and with a BA in Jewellery Design combined to a diploma in gemology at GIA , she started working with private clients as well as to develop other collections including the ‘YouVdiamonds’ collection unveiled at Baselworld 2015.

Todd POWNELL TAP Jewelry designs evolve from emotion to (aesthetic) experience and back. Romanticism underlies the forms of expression within the jewelry. The interaction of dark and light metals mixed with fine gold and diamonds combine to evoke a strong sense of mystery and sublime nature. The diamonds are bead set “upside-down” onto the surface in pave’ or scattered across the piece. This reverse setting effectively captures and reflects light in a succession of broad flashes from oblique angles creating the feeling of twilight. The emotive experience is primary with passions held over order and the senses are moved into the pleasures of the imagination.

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Jasmin DJAHABCHAHI Jasmin Djahanchahi has always been driven by a passion to create beauty influenced by her love for the ancient Zoroastrian values and her appreciation of modern western art. Designing is her world, her essential way of expression. Being of German and Persian heritage and having lived in many different locations worldwide gives her a truly multifaceted flair, reflected in all of her work. Her creations embody simplicity and a fine sense of harmony and balance, her very personal translation of unconventional wisdom into objects of desire. Timeless objects that reveal unlimited imagination and a fresh vision of glamour intended to grace the modern woman.

GARRARD In 1981 Charles, the Prince of Wales, chose a Garrard sapphire and diamond cluster engagement ring. The vibrant and striking ring worn by Diana, Princess of Wales was bequeathed to Prince William, Duke of Cambridge and presented to Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge upon their engagement in 2011. Garrard has formed a reputation for distinguished craftsmanship, utmost attention to detail and everlasting prestige, for over 280 years.

Eva KOUNTOURAKI Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. Evaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA, the world famous Gemological Institute of America. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world. At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the "Unique breathtaking beauty of gems". In this issue discover and learn about tourmailines.

Jewellery Historian

news Boutique openings, coffee table books, auctions, exhibitions & events. Everything new jewellery lovers must know, is here.

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Auction

Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York on April 14 On April 14 Christieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s will offer more than 300 jewels for sale including a four strand natural colored saltwater pearl necklace, a fancy intense purplish pink diamond ring of 5.29 carats, and a cushion cut diamond ring of 80.73 carats as a few of the highlights. With jewelry from major houses such as Bulgari, Cartier, Graff, Harry Winston, JAR, Tiffany, and Van Cleef & Arpels collectors have the opportunity to acquire exquisite signed jewels priced from $1,000 to $2,700,000.

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Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S

A colored diamond and diamond necklace, by Graff Estimate: $500,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 700,000 A pear-shaped D-color potentially internally flawless diamond pendant of 25.49 carats Estimate: $2,500,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3,500,000

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Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York on April 14 On April 14, Christie’s will present its spring sale of Magnificent Jewels in New York. Featuring more than 300 jewels, the sale is led by an outstanding four-strand natural colored saltwater pearl necklace. Black pearls count amongst the most rare of natural gems. Much scarcer than their white counterparts, they represent beauty of the highest order. Very few black and gray pearl necklaces have been offered for sale in the past fifty years, the most famous in comparison being The Nina Dyer Black Pearl Necklace, first sold at Christie’s Geneva in May 1969 and more recently, The Cowdray PearlssoldatChristie’sLondoninJune2012.Theauction is expected to achieve in excess of US$40 million. RahulKadakia,InternationalHeadofChristie’sJewelry, commented: “After a record-breaking year in 2014 in which Christie’s Jewelry department realized an unprecedented $754.7 million in sales, we are proud to begin the jewelry auction season with this exceptional sale of Magnificent Jewels in New York. The auction on April 14 is comprised of superior quality diamonds, rare colored gemstones, and natural pearls that present collectors remarkable opportunities to acquire one-ofa-kind rare jewels.”

of $120,000 – 150,000; and a collection of fine white natural pearls priced from $40,000 to $400,000. EXCEPTIONAL SIGNED JEWELS Great design is the core of what makes classic jewelry hold its value over the long term, and Christie’s is proud to present the best and most iconic examples from the major jewelry houses this April. Among the scores of jewels is a leading selection from master jeweler, Laurence Graff. Having established his first retail shop under his name in 1962, the company draws upon generations of training to create the extraordinary fine settings and intricate designs synonymous with the Graff brand. Further highlights include offerings from Bulgari, Cartier, Harry Winston, JAR, and Van Cleef & Arpels. www.christies.com

A four-strand natural colored pearl necklace measuring from 12.65 to 4.90 mm ; Estimate: $3,800,000 – 4,500,000

THE FINEST NATURAL PEARLS

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Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S

Prized since ancient times, strands of natural pearls matching in color, luster, and shape are exceedingly rare. The early Spanish merchants in the pearl trade found it much easier to sell fine white pearls in Europe and it was not until the second half of the nineteen century that black pearls began to grow in popularity. This was largely due to Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III (married 1853), who developed a taste for these exotic gems. The present lot comprises over two hundred and eighty-nine colored pearls with highly attractive rosé, green or purple overtones and very fine orient. Additional highlights include a pair of Art Deco pearl and diamond bracelets each comprising five strandsofnaturalpearls,measuringapproximately5.00 to6.60mmindiameterandcarryingapre-saleestimate

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S

A fancy intense purplish pink diamond of 5.29 carats Estimate: $3,500,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5,000,000

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Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S

A pair of D-color diamond ear pendants of 10.06 and 10.02, by Harry Winston. Estimate: 1,500,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2,000,000

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Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S

A magnificent & rare natural colored pearl and diamond necklace measuring from 12.65 to 4.90 mm ; Estimate:$3,800,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4,500,000

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Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S

Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York

A sapphire and diamond necklace, by Graff Estimate: $250,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 350,000

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Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S

A pair of Art Deco natural pearl and diamond bracelets Estimate: $120,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 150,000

A superb emerald, ruby, and diamond necklace, by Bulgari Estimate: $300,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 400,000

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Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S

Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York

A cushion-cut D-color potentially Internally Flawless diamond of 11.03 carats, by Graff Estimate: $750,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 1,000,000

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Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S

A pair of emerald, diamond, and colored diamond earclips, by JAR; Estimate: $250,000 – 350,000

An octagonal-cut Kashmir sapphire of 11.88 carats Estimate: $1,200,000 – 1,800,000

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Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York

THE “WHIMSIES” OF PAUL FLATO Born in Texas in 1900, Paul Flato was the original jeweler to the stars. He founded his company in New York City in the 1920s and opened a Los Angeles store in 1937. His designoriented style, which was figurative and often humorous, reached its peak in the 1930s. Millicent Rogers, the Standard Oil heiress, was one of his most

photographed

clients.

Routinely

the

International Best Dressed list as a woman of high fashion and distinctive taste, she had many ideas for jewelry designs that Flato turned into innovative creations, such as the puffy heart. The present lot (illustrated right; estimate: $350,000 – 500,000), a ruby, sapphire, and colored diamond enamel brooch was designed and worn by Millicent Rogers and is pierced with an arrow draped with a blue ribbon with the words, “Verbum Carro” (“A word to my dear”). It is evocative of the South American Milagros icon related charms that were worn

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Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S

The Millicent Rogers heart by Paul Flato Estimate: $350,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 500,000 Jewellery Historian

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Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S

Magnificent jewels to shine at CHRISTIE'S New York

A sapphire and diamond necklace, by Van Cleef & Arpels; Estimate: $300,000 – 500,000

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A pair of cushion-cut diamond ear pendants of 10.28 and 10.42 carats ; Estimate: $600,000 – 800,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S

A cushion-shaped diamond of 80.73 carats Estimate: $4,000,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5,000,000

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Photo courtesy of Baselworld

Baselworld 2015

More than 4,300 (+ 7.5% vs 2014) representatives of the press from over 70 countries attended the show. These numbers signify a new all-time record further underscoring the international

A RESILIENT, RESPONSIVE AND CREATIVE INDUSTRY The show has been a positive one for the watch and jewellery brands. With resilience, responsiveness and creativity, the industry continues to lead the way forward such that the attractiveness and interest that this sector creates continue growing. Nowhere else are more innovations, creations and new collections revealed than at Baselworld - all the elements that make this show THE trendsetting event worldwide. Reflecting on this year's edition of Baselworld, FranĂ§ois ThiĂŠbaud, President of the Swiss Exhibitors' Committee, said he was reminded of the show's rich history and the evolution from its simple roots to the superlative event it is today. "Baselworld is universally acknowledged as the premier event for the global watch and jewellery industry. What makes it exceptional is that Baselworld is the only show that fully reflects the excellence of the industry by uniting everyone from the smallest to the largest brands representing every sector; and it offers each of these a prestigious platform to present themselves in the best light." >

Photo courtesy of Baselworld

Universally acknowledged as the one unmissable trendsetting event for an entire industry, Baselworld is the only show that unites key players from all sectors from around the world: watchmaking, jewellery, diamonds, gemstones and pearls, as well as machines and suppliers. The undisputed premier event once again saw 1,500 brands unveil and showcase their innovations and creations. With marginally fewer buyers present (-3% vs 2014), Baselworld 2015 had around 150,000 attendees (including representatives from exhibiting companies, buyers, journalists and other visitors) from over 100 countries. They felt the pulse of the industry, discovered the novelties, and purchased the latest collections which will set the trends for the coming year.

interest in the show. In keeping with Baselworld's wide reach and universal attractiveness, a livestream of the opening press conference was broadcast and followed by some 3,000 journalists from all over the world.

Photo courtesy of Baselworld

Baselworld 2015, THE global trendsetting event for the watch and jewellery industry, concluded the 2015 edition on a positive note after eight intensive and memorable days. The biggest and most prestigious brands in the world, the finest retailers and the global press once again united under one roof and capitalised on the myriad of business and networking opportunities that are exclusive to Baselworld. A record number of press attendees underlined the relentless growth of interest in the show.

Photo courtesy of Baselworld

Strengthens its Leadership Position

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This opinion was also shared by Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe, for whom Baselworld continues to be the most important annual event where "we get to meet all our partners and the entire global network in a concentrated time". Mr Stern found this year's show to be "an excellent edition that was really successful in terms of numbers and the interest in our products from retailers and the press". Enthusiastic about Baselworld and the success of the LVMH Group at this year's show, President of the group's watch division, Jean-Claude Biver, said that for their brands, TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith, "the results are excellent and we are above all our expectations".

SHINING SUCCESS FOR DIAMONDS, GEMSTONES & PEARLS TRADE Baselworld goes beyond the world of watches and jewellery as it is also the leading global event for diamonds, gemstones and pearl merchants. The best players and dealers from around the world participate in Baselworld because of the immense audience it attracts among which are the biggest customers from all markets.

More than 4,300 (+ 7.5 % vs 2014) of the world's financial press, major dailies, lifestyle publications, all the trade press, the biggest TV channels and key players in the field of social media from over 70 countries attended the show to be among the first to discover those innovations and creations unveiled at Baselworld. With everyone from magazine editors seeking to discover cutting-edge trends and innovative designs to bloggers who deliver up-todate editorials to consumers in every corner of the planet, the international press once again played a major role in creating an unrivalled global impact and underlining the show's premier position for the watch and jewellery industry.

BASELWORLD - NEVER CEASING TO INNOVATE TO MEET EVOLVING REQUIREMENTS Summing up the successful conclusion of the 2015 edition of this superlative show, Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director of Baselworld, said that "Baselworld is the heart of a whole industry which spreads throughout the entire world from here. This statement is becoming increasingly true with every year that passes, as Baselworld strengthens its position as the leader year after year". Further reflecting on what makes this show the one unmissable event for the entire industry, Ms Ritter very clearly states: "This envied and enviable position has to be defended untiringly; that's why Baselworld moves forward every year, improving convenience and impact, and never ceases to innovate to meet the constantly evolving requirements." THE NEXT BASELWORLD WILL BE HELD 17 - 24 MARCH 2016

Photo courtesy of Baselworld

First time Baselworld exhibitor, Shanghai Kimberlite Diamond Co., Ltd, very enthusiastically praised the value of their participation. "This is the first time we've exhibited at Baselworld and we can honestly say this is the one and only show that offers us so many

PRESSATTENDANCEATBASELWORLD 2015 SETS NEW RECORD

Photo courtesy of Baselworld

Commenting on the value of the show, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, is of the opinion that "Baselworld continues to be the major milestone in the year, allowing us to meet and work with all our major clients around the globe. Our press meetings are equally important and increasing every year".

unique opportunities. In the course of the eight days we were able to maximise the effect of our participation as we met with the most important buyers from all over the world and talked to the most significant journalists. All in all, this has been a tremendously successful show for both our brand and our business," said Kimberlite Chairman Dong Liusheng.

Photo courtesy of Baselworld

> Summarising his impression of this year's show, Mr ThiĂŠbaud said that the feedback he had received from brands over the course of the eight days, leaves him "convinced that this year will be a positive one for the industry because everyone has continued to innovate, not just with creating products, but also with intensifying communication with the media and buyers".

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Photo courtesy of Baselworld

Photo courtesy of ENTICE ÂŠ ENTICE

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ENTICE at Baselworld 2015

Photo courtesy of ENTICE © ENTICE

For the 10th year in a row, Entice, the fine jewellery brand by the century old KGK group, from Hong Kong, participated at Baselworld 2015. ENTICE showcased its mesmerizing range of trendsetting Diamond jewellery from its latest collections. Breathtaking necklaces exuding grandeur, flexible white and yellow gold bracelets studded with white and yellow diamonds in beautiful geometrical patterns, long diamond earrings with intricate detailing, spectacular emerald ring, exquisite combinations of different unique shapes of diamonds like pear, round, rose cut, baguette etc. set in white and yellow gold complimenting the unique designs. The Jewellery displayed is now available at Entice Hong Kong exclusively and would come to India later this year. Each piece at Entice has been handcrafted to precision by an expert team of international designers at Entice’s state-ofthe-art -manufacturing unit in Hong Kong. Each bauble is unique in its own and exudes opulence, making it a prized possession for the possessor. The uniqueness of Entice Jewellery lies in its unprecedented grace and trendsetting flair, which is synonymous with brand’s commitment to create the best! Present at the Baselworld 2015, Mr. Sanjay Kothari, Vice Chairman - KGK Group of Companies said, “Its an honor for the brand to be associated with Baselworld, the biggest jewellery fair in the world. For many years we have been showcasing our finest of the work at this platform and maintain the legacy, this year as well, we have showcased the most premium and best of designs from Entice’s pandora of excellence.”

'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of millennium in 2004 in Hong Kong. Following a huge success with boutiques in Hong Kong & China and with an impression that India is now modern by design, KGK launched its first boutique of ‘Entice’ in Jaipur in 2009. Entice today has 17 standalone boutiques in countries including Hong Kong, China and India (Jaipur, Mumbai, New Delhi & Bengaluru). Entice designs meet the mounting demand for an internationally aesthetic look, lending a unique artistic blend to their pieces. Associated by the strength of KGK, Entice aims to create an unparalleled position of credible leadership by providing unmatched customer delight and exceeding customer expectations at every opportunity with its precious gems and jewellery. The KGK group, established in 1905 by Kothari family of Jaipur, is a global corporation with fully integrated operations in the Gems & Jewellery industry, with presence across 15 countries. A pioneer in the world of precious stones, KGK Group has been sourcing, manufacturing and distributing diamonds, colored stones and jewellery for decades. KGK’s sourcing of its rough diamonds from De Beers as a sightholder, from Rio Tinto, Alrosa and other organized markets, provides it an easy access to diamonds at most reasonable prices.

Taking the rich Indian jewellery heritage and enhancing it with a contemporary twist, Entice Jewellery offers a classical yet contemporary style; boasting an elegant rich look.

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Auction

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

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Magnificent jewels

at SOTHEBY'S New York

Sothebyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 21 April auction of Magnificent Jewels in New York will offer more than 350 pieces that together are estimated to achieve in excess of $50 million. The sale is led by a diamond unlike any offered before: an extraordinary 100-carat perfect diamond in a classic Emerald-cut that is estimated to sell for $19â&#x20AC;&#x201C;25 million. Among the exceptional pieces on this sale, the "Baron de Rothschild necklace", the Monarch Blue Diamond and unique jewellery by world famous maisons.

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Magnificent jewels at SOTHEBY'S New York

Sotheby’s 21 April auction of Magnificent Jewels in New York will offer more than 350 pieces that together are estimated to achieve in excess of $50 million*. Highlights will be on public view in Hong Kong, London and Doha this month**, before returning to New York for exhibition beginning 17 April. The sale is led by a diamond unlike any offered before: anextraordinary100-caratperfectdiamondinaclassic Emerald-cutthatisestimatedtosellfor$19–25million.At this impressive scale, diamonds of this exceptional quality – D color and Internally Flawless clarity – are incredibly rare, and are considered ‘perfect’. What distinguishes the present example within this rarefied league is its beautiful shape: it is the largest perfect diamond with a classic Emerald-cut ever to be offered at auction. The remarkable 100.20-carat, D color, Internally Flawless, Type IIa stone will highlight Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York on 21 April 2015, when it is estimated to sell for US$19-25 million. This modern shape gives the stone an unforgettable presence, whether it is worn as a jewel or admired on its own. The original rough – weighing over 200 carats – was mined by De Beers in southern Africa. The current owner spent over one year studying, cutting and polishing the rough diamond to deliver the spectacular stone. GarySchuler,HeadofSotheby’sJewelryDepartmentin New York, commented: “This 100.20 carat diamond is the definition of perfection. The color is whiter than white, it is free of any internal imperfections, and so transparent that I can only compare it to a pool of icy water. It is the first true emerald-cut diamond over 100 caratstobeofferedatauction–themostclassicofcuts, quietly elegant and very contemporary.”

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Lisa Hubbard, Chairman of North & South America for Sotheby’s International Jewelry Division, said: “The rarest object of natural beauty on the market right now, this 100-carat diamond could be considered the ultimate acquisition. Simply put, it has everything you could ever want from a diamond: the classic shape begs to be worn, while the quality puts it in an asset class of its own. The stone gives you so many options – admire it un-mounted, wear it as a simple but stunning pendant, or mount in a designed jewel.” Since 1990, when Sotheby’s sold the first 100-carat perfect diamond at auction, until the most recent examplein2013,thepricepercaratforthesestoneshas increased from $125,000 to $260,000. The present stone’s low estimate of $19 million represents a valuation of $190,000 per carat. Other highlights of this exceptional auction are a magnificent platinum & 18 Karat gold , ring with a fancy purplish pink diamond, weighing 6.24 carats set in a unique mounting with two-cushion cut Kashmir sapphires of 2.44 and 2.36 carats. (Estimate $2,500,000-3,500,000). At the same sale will be sold also "The Monarch Blue Diamond". This important ring in platinum centering an oval-shaped mixed cut fancy blue diamond of 6.06 carats, in VVS2 clarity and complemented with six pinkhued round dimoands has an estimate of $3,500,000-4,500,000. TheBarondeRothschildNecklace,anelegantandrare platinum, emerald, sapphire, lapis lazuli and diamond necklace, was designed by Charles Jacqueau for Cartier, Paris, circa 1924 and has an estimate $1,800,000-2,200,000.

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

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Magnificent jewels at SOTHEBY'S New York

A Magnificent Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Fancy Purplish Pink Diamond and Sapphire Ring A beautiful color combination of an unmodified pear-shaped Fancy Purplish Pink diamond weighing 6.24 carats, set in auniquemountingwithtwocushion-cutKashmirsapphires of 2.44 and 2.36 carats. Estimate $2,500,000-3,500,000

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Magnificent jewels at SOTHEBY'S New York The Baron de Rothschild necklace Aprofileina1932editionof Voguestatedthat,‘TheBaronnede Rothschildisoneofthesmallgroupofwomenintheworldwho are internationally known for their great chic. Her taste in clothes, in jewels, and in houses is faultless, and she is a person of outstanding distinction among the women of the present generation.’ When one observes the magnificent sapphire and emerald pendant necklace, purchased from Cartier in 1924 by the Baron Eugène de Rothschild for his new bride, it is evident thatiswasonceinthecollectionofaworldrenownedtastemaker. Marking an important moment in the history of Art Deco jewelry design, this Cartier piece becomes all the more iconic when you look at the woman behind the jewel. BornCatherineWolffinPhiladelphia,‘PrettyKitty’asshewas known was always destined to live a lavish international lifestyle. After studying music in Munich, she lived in New York with first husband Dandridge Sportswood, often traveling and socializing in Paris and London. In 1911 Catherine married Count Erwin Schoenborn of Austria; they met in Paris and resided in Vienna. Upon the end of her marriage to Schoenborn in 1924, Catherine married the Baron Eugène de Rothschild, of the famed international banking family. The present Cartier design dates to the same year, and was possibly a gift to celebrate the marriage. It comes as no surprise, given the cities and the social circles in whichtheBaronessresided,thatshewasoftencelebratedasone of the best dressed women of the time. In 1937 a group of elite FrenchdesignersincludingCocoChanel,ElsaSchiaparelliand Jeanne Lanvin (amongst others) named the Baroness de Rothschild the 5th best dressed woman in the world. That year the list was topped by Mrs. Harrison Williams (later known as the Countess Mona von Bismarck). In 1938, Rothschild was named the 4th best dressed woman in the world, only to be surpassed by the Duchess of Kent, the Duchess of Windsor and Madame Antenor Patiño (who topped the list). Around this same time, after abdicating the throne in 1936, the Duke of Windsor stayed with the de Rothschilds at their castle in Enzesfeld, Austria. While the Duke waited to marry Wallis Simpson,newspapersacrosstheglobewentwildaccountingfor each step he took within the Rothschild estate. The Baron and Baroness de Rothschild were one of the few guests invited to attend the 1937 wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, 038 Jewellery Historian

who made several trips back to Enzesfeld after their nuptials. By 1940 the Baron and Baroness had moved to New York; the BaronmadehisjourneyinAugustandtheBaronessfollowedin October after a brief stay in Lisbon. According to an October 6, 1940 article in the Chicago Tribune, ‘She carried with her a collection of jewels, declaring their listed value at more than $100,000.’ Likely hand carried by the Baroness de Rothschild on her journey from Lisbon to New York, the sapphire and emerald necklace by Cartier has a design as striking and modern as the dayitwaspurchasedin1924.CreatedbyCartier’schiefdesigner CharlesJacqueau,afrontrunneroftheboldArtDecoaesthetic, this jewel perfectly blends Eastern and Western motifs by modernizing the blue and green ‘peacock patterns’ often seen Mughal jewels and artwork. Suspending three important Mughal stones carved with floral motifs, the larger emerald is framed within a geometric lapis lazuli and diamond border. Composed of graduated Kashmir sapphire beads spaced by lapis lazuli and diamond rondelles, the length of the necklace would have perfectly suited the columnar dresses of the 1920s, yet maintains the same contemporary elegance when worn in the present day.

In the style of Mughal Empire art, the necklace combining elements of Indian and Persian decorative traditions, the pendant suspending a hexagon-shaped emerald, an ovalshaped sapphire and a pear-shaped emerald, all carved with Mughal floral motifs, completed by a necklace composed of 41 sapphire beads, spaced by 80 lapis lazuli beads and diamond-set rondelles, further applied with diamond and lapis lazuli accents, length 29 inches, adjustable, signed Cartier, Paris, numbered 0310, with French assay and partial workshop marks; circa 1924. Designed by Charles Jacqueau for Cartier, Paris, circa 1924 Estimate $1,800,000-2,200,000 Text from the sale catalogue and reproduced with permission of Sotheby's

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

This Mughal Empire-style necklace was exhibited recently at the Denver Art Museum exhibition ‘Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century’. Created by Cartier’s chief designer Charles Jacqueau, the blue and green necklace – highlighted by three colored stones carved with Mughal floral motifs – was acquired by Baron Eugene de Rothschild in 1924 for his new American wife Catherine. In 1927, Vogue wrote about the Baroness and her Cartier necklace in an article about ‘the beautiful new jewels on the smartest women in Paris,’ stating that her taste in fashion and jewels was faultless.

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

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Magnificent jewels at SOTHEBY'S New York

A Highly Important Platinum and Diamond Pendant-Necklace Suspending a pear-shaped diamond of 52.26 carats, D color, SI1 clarity, with excellent polish and symmetry Estimate $3,800,000-4,200,000

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

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Magnificent jewels at SOTHEBY'S New York A unique brooch, by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., France FormerlyintheCollectionofMrs.PaulMellon,thestylizedflowercenteringan octagonal-shapedmixed-cutsapphireweighingapproximately17.00carats, theframessetwithnumerousrounddiamondsweighingapproximately8.00 carats, signed Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger, Made in France, with French export marks; circa 1960. AsstatedinthecatalogueoftheexceptionalsaleatSotheby’s "Mrs.Mellonand Schlumbergerhadalong-standingfriendshiprootedintheirmutualpassion for horticulture; Schlumberger’s designs often are inspired by flora and fauna,andlikeMrs.Mellon’sgardeningstyletheyshareameticulousattention todetail.UsinganexceptionalKashmirsapphire,thepresentpieceresembles the vibrant flowers that decorate the grounds of Oak Spring Farms, the sprawling estate shared by Mr. and Mrs. Mellon in Upperville, Virginia. Mrs. Mellon bequeathed her Schlumberger jewels to the Virginia Museum of Fine Art in Richmond, Virginia; among one of the rarest pieces in the museum’scollectionisaflowerpotfrom1960,featuringabejeweledsunflower bursting from a terracotta pot from Mrs. Mellon’s greenhouse. Although the flower currently centers an amethyst, it was reportedly first centered by an impressive sapphire. It remains unknown if the present brooch was the original center to the flowerpot work; however, there are striking similarities between the quality of the current sapphire and accounts of the original Schlumbergerpiece.AquotefromSchlumbergerinthebooktitledTheJewels of Jean Schlumberger (page 46), notes, ‘…Sometimes that led me to find solutions that were fun rather than practical. One day, a dealer brought me a singularlybeautifulKashmirsapphire,knownas‘TheDancingGirlofIndia.’ I was astonished by it, and proposed it to someone who greatly loved special things.Hiswife,Iknew,didn’tliketowearlargestones,butshelovedgardens, andthat’showthatsapphire-turned-flowerendedupgrowinginarealterracotta flowerpot selected from her greenhouse!’ " Estimate $750,000-1,000,000

Text from the auction catalogue and used with permission of SOTHEBY'S

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Magnificent jewels at SOTHEBY'S New York 'Tutti Frutti' Bracelet, Cartier, New York The epitome of Eastern influences on Art Deco designs, tutti frutti pieces by Cartier are jeweled masterpieces. The artful arrangement of carved colored stonesanddiamonds,togetherwiththepreciseapplicationofblackenamelall serve to tell a jeweled story that only Cartier could author. After first being exhibited at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts DĂŠcoratifs et IndustrielsModernesinParis,thetuttifruttistylerapidlygainedpopularity amongstthemostfashionablewomenanddiscerningjewelrycollectorsofthe time such as Mrs. Cole Porter and Daisy Fellowes. Perhaps what is most mesmerizing about these iconic jewels is that each creation is completely unique. As with colored stones and diamonds, tutti fruttijewelsmayshareresemblanceshowevernotwoareeverthesame.What makes this a quintessential tutti frutti piece is the large presence of carved emeraldsandrubies,connectedthroughoutbyadiamond-setvine,aswellas the chevron motif on the clasp, seen on similar examples of the style. What makes this an exceptional tutti frutti piece, however, is the delicate framing appliedaroundeachjeweledflowerandleaf,theblackenamelprovidingadded contrast to each stone while also creating a harmonious balance throughout. ThesupremelyArtDeco-styleclasp,withitssleekgeometry,servesasstylized vasesfromwhichthetuttifruttivinemaygrowandflourishfromendtoend of the bracelet. As iconic as the floral festoons which adorn its original fitted case, this tutti frutti bracelet beautifully showcases the ultimate craftsmanship for which Cartier is known. Tutti frutti designs have long been enchanting jewelry connoisseurs; the present example with its vibrant hues and highly flexible form is both a wonder to see and a wonder to wear. Estimate $1,300,000-1,800,000

The above text is from the official auction catalogue and used with permission of SOTHEBY'S

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Magnificent jewels at SOTHEBY'S New York

The Monarch Blue Diamond An Important Platinum, Rose Gold, Fancy Blue Diamond and Colored Diamond Ring Centering an oval-shaped mixed cut Fancy Blue diamond of 6.06 carats, VVS2 clarity and complemented with six pink-hued round diamonds. Estimate $3,500,000-4,500,000

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY'S © SOTHEBY'S

Cover story

Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY ©MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY

Photo courtesy of MEGHNA JEWELS ©MEGHNA JEWELS

cover story

050 Jewellery Historian

Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY ©MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY

MARIA KONDAKOVA

Designer’s passion for fine jewellery

Maria

Kondakova

Fine

Jewellery

was

produced luxury jewellery brands. It is

founded in 2007 and caters to the most important to highlight and accentuate the discerning clientele, who value individuality beauty and character of the wearer, in every aspect of their image. The Swiss-

ensuring the creations are pleasing to the

based high-end jewellery house is a family

eye and have emotional appeal, which can

business with Russian and Greek heritage. A subsequently strong

work

ethic

reflected

create

emotional

the connection.

company culture, where every member of the team is committed to providing the High quality and craftsmanship translate the highest levels of service and creating a full

poetry

the

designer’s

vision

into

brand experience.

innovative pieces, which can be cherished for many years to come. Deep meaning

The company mission is to provide timeless embedded in every piece communicates designs, unaffected by changing trends, for

the stories and elements of inspiration

elite clientele wishing to highlight their reflective of the designer’s experiences. individuality.

Maria

Kondakova

Fine Delicate

and

Jewellery aims to fill the gap in the market for multicultural

thoughtful influences

designs showcase

with a

a fine jewellery house offering bespoke and definitive design signature. Intricate pieces limited edition pieces of innovative design reflect with classic elements, which will rival mass-

the

delicate

nature

the

relationship of the wearer and jewellery as Jewellery Historian

051

> All creations are very special and come

connecting the aesthetics of the brand and

made-to-order or in a limited edition. Many the individuality of the client. Being open to have been specifically designed for the clients’ feedback generates a two-way brand’s very special clients. Every element of communication

resulting

couture-like

every jewel is carefully sourced and selected pieces that hold a special place in the heart to fit the fairy tale that is Maria Kondakova of the client. Fine Jewellery. The brand prides itself on achieving the highest levels of quality and The innovation

working

with

the

most

combination

strong

concept

thoughtful and

design,

exceptional

outstanding craftsmen in Italy and using the craftsmanship, along with Maria’s curiosity latest

technology,

which

makes

the about modern technologies in jewellery

creations a truly exceptional choice for design and production, makes the creations those

seeking

unique

and

personal

expression in every aspect of their lives.

an exceptional choice for those looking for individuality in every detail of their image. Customers are invited to indulge in the

This

year

Baselworld

2015,

Maria feeling of being adorned by truly unique and

Kondakova Fine Jewellery presented a precious art, compressed in the smallest number of bespoke creations alongside the forms. new YouVdiamonds collection.

Beauty of the YouVdiamonds collection Bespoke pieces are the core of the brand, as the creative director loves to work with

YouVdiamonds by Maria Kondakova Fine

private clients and to create unique and Jewellery

unique,

limited

edition

exciting pieces. In the world of mass- collection, which is to be unveiled at produced

luxury

jewellery,

customers

Baselworld 2015.

expect more than just good quality from their jewellery and thus Maria Kondakova Fine

YouVdiamonds will lead you to the truly

Jewellery seeks to establish a long standing personal and exclusive world of Maria connection and relationship with clients

Kondakova jewellery, where every piece is

wishing to have truly unique pieces.

made

with

passion,

exceptional

craftsmanship and great attention to detail. Most of the brand’s clients look for rare and Thoughtful and inspirational design instilled bespoke creations with a personal touch, in each creation showcases the designer’s which reflects the essence of their distinctive

passion for fine jewellery as an art form. Each

thinking. Maria works directly with clients to piece tells a story, beautifully conveying the create pieces tailored to a certain occasion emotion and the poetry of the designer’s or theme or to produce designs with

vision.

particular stones. Both the creative director and the client take part in the design process, This limited edition collection comprises 11 creating the story surrounding the piece, thus 052 Jewellery Historian

designs and features a variety of sizes >

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Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY ©MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY

054 Jewellery Historian Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY ©MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY

Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY ÂŠMARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY

The elegance of yoga asanas is encapsulated in precious metals, which projects a light of inner spirit found in yoga practice. The light plays on the gemstone facets reflecting chakra colours, connecting your body and soul through precious amulets.

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> in charms and pendants, to suit the

Maria uses diamonds that have very high

individual taste of every client. All pieces are fluorescence in order to achieve the desired made in 18kt gold, pavĂŠ set with diamonds of image under UV light. Each stone is carefully 2 to 10.5 total carat weight, depending on hand-picked to guarantee perfect fit for the size and design. The exclusivity of the each creation. YouVdiamonds creations is highlighted by a very difficult and time-consuming diamond

To create this unique effect, the specialists at

sorting and precise pave setting process, Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery, go through which took years to develop and perfect. To

an extensive amount of diamonds, a process

create the sought-after effect in every which takes days to source stones just for one piece, MK Fine Jewellery specialists go creation. through an extensive amount of diamonds, a

The

strenght

fluorescence

required to create the desired effect can

process which takes days to source stones only be found in 3 to 5 % of the sorted just for one creation.

diamonds,

consequently

making

each

piece is a truly valuable process. The magic of the collection shines in every piece, which transforms under ultraviolet light to unravel the captivating world of YouVdiamonds. Some diamonds hide an incredible inner light, which can only be seen in special surroundings. Conveying the design inspiration, which relates to the importance of self-belief and self-growth, that could take us to any heights, any horizons, if only we believe. Impossible to guess at first glance, the magic inside the jewel will remain your treasure until you are ready to share it. Maria used fluorescence to create a really gorgeous collection.

Fluorescence is the

visible light that a diamond emits when it is exposed to an ultraviolet rays. Diamond

Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY ÂŠMARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY

each creation reveals that we all have wings

fluorescence, in its most simple form, is the effect that ultraviolet (UV) light has on a diamond. As a gemologist, with studies at the world-known Gemological Institute of America, Maria used an effect to her creations that truly makes them magic. 056 Jewellery Historian

Same piece, under different light. Under UV light we can see the wings, which are hidden under daylight.

Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY ÂŠMARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY

To create these unique creations, the specialists at Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery, go through an extensive amount of diamonds, a process which takes days to source stones just for one creation..

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You are unique. There is no one like you in the world. You deserve to have a special, precious gift that is completely exclusive and made upon your specification, just as you desire. There will only be one piece in the world, unique, just like you.

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Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY ÂŠMARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY

Maria's ironic designs made with beautifully crafted carvings give coral a new meaning. Stories hidden in these jewels are waiting for you to discover them. Jewellery Historian

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Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY ©MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY

Nature’s gift of unique minerals in vivid, magical colors will accentuate your feminine beauty and mirror your nature and distinctive character.

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cover story

074 Jewellery Historian

MARIA KONDAKOVA The passionate artist

The launch and widely anticipated unveiling of the YouVdiamonds collection at Basel World 2015 attracted the world ofnMaria Kondakova's jewellery. The magic of the collection shines in every piece, which transforms under ultraviolet light to unravel the captivating world of YouVdiamonds, which took years to develop and perfect. Thoughtful and inspirational design instilled in each creation showcases the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passion for fine jewellery as an art form.

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Russian born creative jewellery designer, Maria Kondakova-Kaltsidis, has had a long but very exciting journey to get to where she is now. Born in Moscow, Maria spent her childhood there, growing up in a family which enjoyed travelling and exploring new places. This instilled curiosity and passion for expressing herself through art. As a child, she visited studios of various artists, seeking her own style and learning to play with form, shape and texture. This creative journey continued as Maria attended various art courses and learned about history of art. Impressionism is very close to her heart as impressionists also tried to capture a certain moment. Maria was inspired to continue her creative path and decided to go and study in London, at Central Saint Martins. Starting with a Foundation Course in Art and Design, Maria continued with a BA in Jewellery Design. This enabled her to learn to design and create something very personal to her and her way of expression. Strong concept development ensured that behind every piece there must be a certain meaning, concept or idea. Saint Martins was very much about the importance of the concept but in Italy Maria learned that jewellery can be both aesthetically pleasant to the eye and comfortable to wear. She was soon able to communicate and translate her thoughts and feelings in a manner that is closer to her perception of beauty and to connect Italian aesthetics with a part of the sole, creating something very personal. Maria then went on to study at the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) in 076 Jewellery Historian

London where she learnt about the magical world of gemstones. She got her General Gemologist Diploma and launched her own brand in 2007, working with private clients as well as starting to develop other collections including the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;YouVdiamondsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; collection unveiled at Baselworld 2015. At the same time as launching her brand, she embarked on another adventure and started a family. She now has two kids and a supporting husband. Travel continued to be a big part of Mariaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life as she lived in London, Zurich and currently lives in Moscow. Her distinctive design signature is evident in all pieces as Maria creates modern classics that combine all multicultural influences. Italian aesthetics are blended with cutting edge design and her Russian soul, open to embrace everything new. When did you found the company? Where? What were you doing before then? The company was founded in London in 2007, just after graduating from Central Saint Martins where I was doing a BA in Jewellery Design. What or whom inspired you to become a jewellery designer? During my time at the foundation course at Central Saint Martins, I got a chance to try a number of disciplines and jewellery design was one of them. It instantly became a passion of mine as it gave me the opportunity to express my ideas, however big, >

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Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY ©MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY

> in the smallest forms. Saint Martins was very

forget that throught life we carry an inner

much about the importance of the concept

light, certain strength and potenital, which

but in Italy I learned that jewellery can be has been gifted to us at birth. This unique gift both beautiful and conceptual. I was soon can help us reach harmony and desired able to communicate and translate my horizons. All we need is to believe in thoughts and feelings in a manner that is

oursleves, our ability and strength.

closer to my perception of beauty and to connect Italian aesthetics with a part of my But how we can do that ? sole, creating something personal to me and my way of expression.

Learn to look inside yourself to find the wings you have been given from the start.

How did you progress to where you are now? What do you highlight with this collection ? I progressed to where I am now through hard work. It took many years to get to where I am

Exploring the notion of purity int eh idea of

now as I have a family and juggling the two is

childhood and infancy allowed me to

difficult at times, but it is important for me to highlight the unique identity and mystery continue expressing myself through my art instilled in each baby from birth. Pure angels and to take the brand to the next level.

arrive with a secret path of the future ahead, a truly secret of whom the baby is to become

Where did your inspiration come from for your

and what talents, strength and potential he

YouVdiamond collection ?

or she may possess.

The idea was born during my studies at the So, they are baby angel wings ? Gemological Institute of America, where I learned about fluorescence in diamonds.

The wings are not just a symbol of the essence

The idea of exporing this effect and of an angel but a symbol of being able to incorporating into my designs stayed in my

reach the heights which are meant for each

mind for years until I was able to apply it to a baby from birth. The mystery of a unique truly personal and unique collection.

identity

presented

these

pieces,

reflecting the eep meaning instilled in each What is your philosophy and why you designed creation. wings ? What do you like and dislike about the I was inspired by eleents of the journey one jewellery available today? takes through life. The process of formation of an individual, a personality and a path

Many companies now sacrifice design in

ahead are all deeply rooted in oursleves. order to keep costs down. Designs are more Even though at times we deviate from our true selves, we need to stop and reflect, look beyond any covers or shields. We often 078 Jewellery Historian

simple and commercial and there arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t >

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Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY ©MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY

many companies who hand-make bespoke jewellery. Everything is becoming

mechanized and simplified. It is important to support craftsmen who put their heart and sole into creating jewellery. We are not against technology altogether, we are interested in using it to find creative solutions in order to make some interesting and innovative designs come to life. It is important for Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery to support and work with these amazing craftsmen who translate years of their experience into making very special pieces. There aren’t many such highly skilled creaftsmen left and so we want to work with them and to preserve their skills and trade as well as to create special jewellery, pieces of art with their hands. What is your favourite piece of your jewellery? What are you most proud of creating? I love all MK Fine Jewellery pieces, as each creation has a special meaning and story behind it. The latest collection, YouVdiamonds, is definitely one of my favourite to work on, especially the ‘Sweet Dreams’ piece, which is dedicated to my first son. Tanzinite whispers collection is also very close to my heart because of my fascination with the stone, with which I got acquainted in its beautiful motherland Tanzania. We experimented a lot technically during the creation of this collection, which made it very interesting for me. >

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Photo courtesy of MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY ©MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY

> Can clients choose to design their own pieces? Is there anything you simply couldn’t do for them? I am happy to take on any piece, which inspires me creatively and allows to explore and innovate. However, I wouldn’t take on pieces which go against my morals or aesthetics. Do you have a typical customer? How would you define them? So far, all my customers have been people seeking unique pieces to reflect their own vision and ideas. Most of them have plenty of expensive jewellery from world-famous jewellery houses but these pieces do not reflect or highlight their individuality. Whereas other customers want to invest in something special which will be dear to them and remind of a special moment in their life. Mass produced fine jewellery is available to buy in boutiques worldwide and so does not offer the emotional qualities my clients are seeking. Now luxury consumers want more exclusive pieces, they don’t want to have the same jewellery as others in their social. What has been your greatest accomplishment? Combing work and family life in order to achieve what I have and now moving on to the next stage and presenting the brand to a wider-audience. If you weren’t a jewellery designer, what do you think you would do? I love to paint and so I think that if I wasn’t a jewellery designer, I would be an artist. I would express my creativity through paintings. What are your plans for the future? Immediate plans for the future include taking the brand to the next level and exploring new markets.

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086 Jewellery Historian Photo courtesy of TAP BY TODD POWNELL ©TAP BY TODD POWNELL

TODD POWNELL RESPECT FOR THE INNATE PROPERTIES OF THE MATERIALS

TAP Jewelry designs evolve from emotion to (aesthetic) experience and back. Romanticism underlies the forms of expression within the jewelry. The interaction of dark and light metals mixed with fine gold and diamonds combine to evoke a strong sense of mystery and sublime nature. The diamonds are bead set “upside-down” onto the surface in pave’ or scattered across the piece. This reverse setting effectively captures and reflects light in a succession of broad flashes from oblique angles creating the feeling of twilight. The emotive experience is primary with passions held over order and the senses are moved into the pleasures of the imagination. TAP by Todd Pownell is a Cleveland based jewelry design studio gaining new attention with fresh compositions. Using combinations of dark and light metals, texture, inverted diamonds and cage settings; TAP jewelry designs have an air of mystery by catching the eye and engaging the senses. Their signature style of bead setting diamonds upside down reflects the romantic feeling of twilight.

"The experience of melting steel rods together years ago in shop class started me on my journey towards working with metals and using my hands to make objects. As I studied and explored metals, I began working on a smaller scale with nonferrous metals and copper to create miniature metal boxes. Once I was exposed to silver and gold my seduction was complete and the decision to make jewelry came naturally." says Todd, while talking about the beginning of his love affair with precious metals. "I honed my skills working with “fine jewelers” and learned to set many different types of fascinating gemstones which led me to study gemology. I was mesmerized with the internal properties of crystal structure, refractive indexes, variations and hardness of gems. Monetary displays of gems and solely decorative uses were uninteresting to me and instead I admired gemstones for their intrinsic properties and their ability to naturally interact with light. Today, I work as an artist in the tradition of the independent studio craftsmen and jewelry becomes a vehicle for expressive desires and nomadic Jewellery Historian 087

The interaction of dark and light metals mixed with fine gold and diamonds combine to evoke a strong sense of mystery and sublime nature.

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Photo courtesy of TAP BY TODD POWNELL ©TAP BY TODD POWNELL

> I approach the process of making jewelry with an honest respect for the innate qualities of materials. Noble metals and gemstones have strong qualities of order and structure within their internal nature and this arouses my sense of admiration and attention for the craft of making jewelry objects. My work begins with the thought and recollection that “procrastination is the thief of time” as in Night-Thoughts by Edward Young. With trepidation I enter the process of making jewelry (which is always chaos, yet filled with joys and struggle too). The chaos of the process conspires with my respect of the material to create finished pieces that exist with those traces of chaos and order. The intended visual effect is similar to the tensions of a gathering storm in the night sky or the effect low angled light cast across a landscape has upon the gazing eye. In 2008 Todd focussed on developing his 090 Jewellery Historian

design jewelry line; “Tap by Todd Pownell” that has since grown from a two to a four person workshop. It is sold in stores and galleries throughout the United States. Todd has taught and given numerous lectures and workshops focus- ing on topics including, stone setting, fabrication and sharing incites into building a viable studio. He is a Graduate Gemologist whose work has been featured in publications including the Lark Books series. In 2013 was named recipient of Cleveland’s Seth Rosenberg prize and was recently honored with the Mort Abelson Best New Designer of the Year Award. Todd is also a Member of Ethical Metalsmith’s, Jewelers for social and environmental responsibility, who support ethical mining, sourcing their materials in the most responsible manner while operating their studios with “green” practices. Jewelers

for

social

and

environmental

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The intended visual effect is similar to the tensions of a gathering storminthenightskyor theeffectlowangledlight cast across a landscape has upon the gazing eye.

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Photo courtesy of TAP BY TODD POWNELL ©TAP BY TODD POWNELL

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JazyChic in touch with the stars Fromthebeginningofourcivilization,thetimesofZoroasterand Babylon,manhasattemptedtoreconnecttotheuniversewithits magnificentandmysteriousbeautyofshimmeringlightsinthe night sky. Jasmin Djahanchahi has always been driven by a passion to createbeautyinfluencedbyherlovefortheancientZoroastrian valuesandherappreciationofmodernwesternart.Designingis her world, her essential way of expression. Jazychic in synergy with Stockert & Cie. launches its first collection of high jewelry creations. A series of truly unique and masterfully crafted zodiac pendants, innovative and enchanting, strikingly elegant and very precious.

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Photo courtesy of JAZYCHIC © JAZYCHIC

JazyChic in touch with the stars

Jasmin Djahanchahi has always been driven by a passion to create beauty influenced by her love for the ancient Zoroastrian values and her appreciation of modern western art. Designing is her world, her essential way of expression.

From the beginning of our civilization, the times of Zoroaster and Babylon, man has attempted to reconnect to the universe with its magnificent and mysterious beauty of shimmering lights in the night sky.

In the pursuance of Excellency only the very Being of German and Persian heritage and best of materials and the most skillful artisans having lived in many different locations have been selected to manufacture worldwide gives her a truly multifaceted Jazychicâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s unique pieces of jewelry. flair, reflected in all of her work. This collection was created with the With a solid background in high-end interior profound intention to unite the most design with her own line of furniture the precious materials in the finest change of scale was tremendous and combinations. Love for texture and color greatly seductive. Her creations embody combined with great attention to detail simplicity and a fine sense of harmony and have resulted in truly desirable objects that balance, her very personal translation of display diligent German Expertise in unconventional wisdom into objects of craftsmanship of the highest quality. desire. Timeless objects that reveal Manufactured entirely by STOCKERT & Cie. in unlimited imagination and a fresh vision of Pforzheim, the Gold town of Germany, all glamour intended to grace the modern pieces are of genuine value and will be woman and to accentuate her beauty and possessed and worn with joy and proudly elegance. passed on to the next generation.

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>shimmering stars of the night sky. About the

first class materials from all over the world.

complex world of our emotions, our spirit and

Eighteen-karat gold or platinum is preferred

our self esteem. By the means of exquisite in combination with precious stones in their materials, shapes and colors, fluid light natural tones, high quality pearls and reflections and playful textures the opulence selected diamonds. of deep thought is captured in splendor. A most glamorous gift that will light up the Inner attitudes take on unique forms heart of each woman. An ambitious company since 1879: Christian Multifaceted in design with passion and Stockert of Stockert & Cie. leads this business precision, translated and manufactured successfully into its fourth generation. This immaculately by Stockert & Cie. with the internationally savvy businessman is quite at finest, intricate craftsmanship in the most home with his collection around the world. luxurious way.

Inspite of this inherent cosmopolitan flair, down- to-earth virtues such as diligence,

This

collection

profound precious

was

intention

created to

materials

unite in

with

the discipline, honesty and precision are highly

the

most

evident at Stockert & Cie. This company

finest stands tall in Pforzheim, Germany with its

combinations. Love for texture and color team of 18 hand- picked staff, each specially combined with great attention to detail have resulted in truly desirable objects that display

diligent

German

Expertise

craftsmanship of the highest quality. Manufactured entirely by STOCKERT & Cie. in Pforzheim, the Gold town of Germany, all pieces are of genuine value and will be possessed and worn with joy and proudly passed on to the next generation. In addition to clear-cut design, Stockert employs the most modern standards to fashion its products. Each piece of jewellery in their Collection is unique and carefully created

with

ultimate

dedication

experienced goldsmiths and precious stone setters, handcraft at its highest form. Most precious materials Stockert & Cie. uses only 110 Jewellery Historian

selected for their singularly skilled expertise.

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Gemini pendant Endlessly charming, in free spirit and youthful exuberance with a constant appetite to expand the mental horizon. Chrysoprase stones exhilarate your optimism.

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CAPRICORN pendant Immensely disciplined, attentive and dedicated. Perceived by others as very stylish and cultured, with a profound resource of emotional strength and earthy endurance. Turquoise stones magically "protect" your health.

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CANCER pendant Radiantly feminine, gentle and supportive with an extraordinary intensity to protect the loved ones in complete devotion. Pink Tourmalines present you extra joy and well being.

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LEO pendant Sincerely generous, dignified and magnetic with a love for luxury and exclusivity in splendor. Allow your intuition and clairvoyance to be powered by Diamonds.

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GARRARD Over 275 years of rich heritage Garrard has formed a reputation for distinguished craftsmanship, utmost attention to detail and everlasting prestige, emphasised by the commissions received from Royalty all around the world. With over 275 years of rich heritage, Garrard has met the challenge to harness its unique past with modern day relevance. Garrardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s combination of tradition and contemporary design is synonymous with creating magnificent jewellery today, to become heirlooms for tomorrow.

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GARRARD 280 years of rich heritage

Garrard’s history of luxury and grandeur began in 1735 when journal entries start with a British Royal commission for Frederick, Prince of Wales, followed by many more for international royalty and the upper echelons of society worldwide. Garrard has since had the honour of serving each successive King and Queen of Great Britain. With over 275 years of rich heritage, Garrard has met the challenge to harness its unique past with modern day relevance. Garrard’s combination of tradition and contemporary design is inspiring.

In 1981 Charles, the Prince of Wales, chose a Garrard sapphire and diamond cluster engagement ring. The vibrant and striking ring worn by Diana, Princess of Wales was bequeathed to Prince William, Duke of Cambridge and presented to Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge upon their engagement in 2011. A Garrard engagement ring preserves its classic beauty becoming a cherished heirloom to be passed down through generations. Garrard celebrated its 280th anniversary with the launch of its exquisite new Bow collection at the 2015 Baselworld fair.

Their in-house design team creates innovative collections as well as unique one-of-a-kind treasures using only the finest gems in the world. Their High The Bow collection features elegant signature pieces, Jewellery, is handcrafted in London. Each piece is crafted in rose gold and delicately highlighted in carefully and intricately designed for the client seeking diamonds, as well as awe-inspiring diamond creations perfection in the aesthetic and verifies that the Garrard including contemporary up-the-ear earrings and design ethos is abundant with luxury, comfort and style.double-finger ring. The collection includes two remarkable High Jewellery necklaces, embracing the Garrard has an illustrious story with the Royal family. This Garrard values of traditional craftsmanship and illustrious story began in 1840 when Prince Albert forward-thinking design. There magnificent pieces can commissioned the house to create a striking sapphire be worn in a multitude of ways, creating a complete, and white diamond cluster brooch as a wedding gift to matching High Jewellery set. his future wife, Queen Victoria of England. The great romance blossomed with nine children, of which the In its modern day interpretation, the bow is a symbol of eldest son, Edward, the Prince of Wales, would celebration,asaribbonisoftentiedasamementoofan commission Garrard for a diamond and pearl parure as anniversary or birthday, marking a special occasion in a gift to his future bride, Princess Alexandra of Denmark life. Each timeless piece of the Bow collection is created in 1863. from a soft flowing ribbon of gold and diamonds, gently tied in a bow to capture an everlasting moment of Garrard continued to serve the British Royal family and celebration that will appeal to women around the by 1919, the firm was credited for designing and world. crafting Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara. Inspired by emerging Russian trends, the tiara was a cherished Garrard. Creating magnificent jewellery today, to modern piece and later worn by Her Majesty Queen become heirlooms of tomorrow. Elizabeth II on her wedding day in 1947.

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Pink tourmaline and diamond ring handcrafted with a 15.03 carat cushion pink tourmaline center stone accented with 0.77 carats of brilliant diamond rounds set in platinum and 18K rose gold. Ring by OMI Privé

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The unique breathtaking beauty of gems

Tourmaline

by Eva Kountouraki Tourmaline probably holds the first place among the most colorful gemstones known. A fact that most people do not know is that tourmalines are not simply pretty gems but they are a group of minerals that contains more than 10 species with complex chemical compositions, which are responsible for the gem’s beautiful variety of hues. Tourmaline possible colours range from colorless to pure black, including all the rainbow hues and all tones possible, while it is also very famous for the amazing combinations of several colours that occur together in one crystal. The name tourmaline is said to derive from a Sinhalese word meaning “mixed colored stones” originally applied to groups of gemstones of various species.

called “Brazilian sapphire”, as a reference to those famous gems. Because of tourmaline’s wide variety of possible colours it has often been used to imitate or was mistaken for other gemstones. One of those historic “misunderstandings” is a piece from the Russian Crown jewels collection that for years was though to carry a large ruby but the gem was later found to be a red tourmaline.

Tourmaline was also prized through history. Chinese emperors admired this gemstone’s beauty and were buying large quantities that they often carved in intricate shapes for practical and decorative objects such as buttons and toggles for the clothing of the royals and the wealthy. Chinese empress Tzu Hsi loved tourmaline so much –especially One of the major sources of tourmaline is the pink one mined in California- that after South America where many misnomers are using it as an ornament throughout her life, used to describe the different varieties. For she requested a tourmaline pillow for her example green tourmaline is often eternal rest. Some objects of sensational erroneously referred to as “Brazilian beauty and craftsmanship such as snuff emerald” or blue tourmaline is wrongfully bottles carved out of tourmaline are seen in Jewellery Historian

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Photo courtesy of CARLA AMORIM ÂŠ CARLA AMORIM

An amazing Paraiba tourmaline ring by Carla Amorim

> Tourmaline, apart from its beauty, is naturally gifted with some features that are of great interest to the scientific community. In fact, tourmaline is a pyroelectric and piezoelectric mineral, meaning that it can develop an electrostatic charge when heated or pressed along specific directions. Its piezoelectricity is a useful property that has found many industrial applications like in the production of pressure gauges for sensitive equipment for submarines or even for the measurements of bomb blast power. The Dutch traders who brought tourmaline to the European markets were using these properties in their everyday life, before those were scientifically proven. In fact, they would heat tourmaline crystals by rubbing them, in order to clean the ashes from their pipes, as they have found out that tourmalineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s electrical charge could attract small particles and dust.>

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A gorgeous ring by Daniela Villegas with a watermelon tourmaline

Photo courtesy of DANIELA VILLEGAS ÂŠ DIANIELA VILLEGAS

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“ One of the rarest and most highly prized and priced tourmalines is the one discovered in 1989 in Paraíba Brazil, and named after this location. The paraíba tourmalines exhibit an incredibly intense blue-green colour with such a high saturation that is often described as “neon blue”. ” These amazing earrings with paraiba tourmalines by Orlov, has been previously shown in our issue 3

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Photo courtesy of ORLOV ÂŠ ORLOV jewelry

Earrings set with Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds by Carla Amorim

> Tourmaline is breathtakingly beautiful in all its colours and the combinations of them, and the most intense and highly saturated hues are the ones that are preferred in the market and require high prices. Intense reds, mysterious blues and pure greens, multicolored or watermelon – a beautiful variety of tourmaline that resembles this fruit as it has a green outer rim and pink to red core-, you can find a tourmaline to satisfy every taste! One of the rarest and most highly prized and priced tourmalines is the one discovered in 1989 in Paraíba Brazil, and named after this location. The paraíba tourmalines exhibit an incredibly intense bluegreen colour with such a high saturation that is often described as “neon blue”. This exquisite type of tourmaline has been found also in some African mines; still the high quality Brazilian material often requires premium prices in the market. In order to be called paraíba, this tourmaline must exhibit equal amounts of blue and green pleochroic hues and have vivid saturation. Too blue, too green, too dark or too light, cannot qualify as paraíba and will not fetch the prices of a true high quality paraíba, although they may still be gorgeous. Tourmaline is a hard and durable gemstone that with proper care can last for centuries. However it requires sensitive handling -just like all the precious things- as well as protection from harsh use and sharp blows. Humans were always dazzled by the beauty of tourmaline’s colours. An ancient Egyptian legend has it that tourmaline has travelled a long journey from the earth’s core towards the sun and collected all the rainbow colours along the way.. Because its beautiful colours are directly connected to the chemistry of the environment in which it forms, slight changes in the chemical and physical conditions result in variations in the colours of the growing crystal, naturally giving almost all tourmalines a unique look and character. 148 Jewellery Historian

Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design.

These OMI Privé Pink tourmaline and diamond earrings handrafted with 11.26 carats of pear shaped pink tourmalines accented with 0.62 carats of brilliant diamond rounds set in 18K rose gold.

Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaborationwiththeItalianbranchof GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world.

Eva Kountouraki

At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems.

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Our Faves In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. In this issue we invite you in our "Printemps animalier".

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Our Faves

SYLVIE CORBELIN

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FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY SYLVIE CORBELIN

ILIAS LALAOUNIS

BORGIONI

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Our Faves

SHAWISH GENEVE

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JAZYCHIC LYDIA COURTEILLE

LE VIAN

LEYLA ADBOLLAHI

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Our Faves

MORPHﾃ右 JOAILLERIE

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ELENA SYRAKA

CARRERA Y CARRERA

LYDIA COURTEILLE

NIKOS KOULIS Jewellery Historian

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Our Faves

MAGERIT JOYAS

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BORGIONI

ELENA SYRAKA

MAGERIT JOYAS

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Our Faves

LEYLA ABDOLLAHI

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GARRARD

NIKOS KOULIS

FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

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Our Faves

MAGERIT JOYAS

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ELENA SYRAKA

MAGERIT JOYAS

CARRERA Y CARRERA

LYDIA COURTEILLE

ZOLOTAS

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address book brands featured in this issue

ADLER www.adler-joailliers.com

JEWELLERY THEATRE www.jewellerytheatre.com

AVAKIAN www.avakian.com

LE VIAN www.levian.com

ANA DE COSTA www.anadecosta.com

LEYLA ABDOLLAHI www.leyla-abdollahi.com

CARRERA Y CARRERA www.carreraycarrera.com

LYDIA COURTEILLE www.lydiacourteille.com

CHIMENTO www.chimento.it

MAGERIT JOYAS www.mageritjoyas.com

CROW'S NEST www.crowsnestjewels.com

MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE www.morphee-joaillerie.com

CHRISTIE'S www.christies.com

MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY www.mariakondakova.com

DANIELA VILLEGAS www.danielavillegas.com

MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.ru

ELENA SYRAKA www.elenasyraka.com

NIKOS KOULIS www.nikoskoulis.gr

FABERGÉ www.faberge.com

OMI PRIVÉ www.omiprive.com

FANOURAKIS www.fanourakis.gr

ORLOV JEWELRY www.orlovjewelry.com

FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY www.farahkhanfinejewellery.com

SOTHEBY'S www.sothebys.com

GARRARD www.garrard.com

SYLVIE CORBELLIN www.sylvie-corbelin.com/sc/

GUMUCHIAN www.gumuchian.com

SHAWISH www.shawish.ch

ILIAS LALAOUNIS www.iliaslalaounis.com

TAP by TODD POWNELL www.tapbytoddpownell.com

JAZYCHIC www.jazychic.com

ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr

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esthĂ¨te Une personne qui considĂ¨re l'art comme une valeur essentielle

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Photo courtesy of MAGERIT JOYAS ÂŠ MAGERIT JOYAS

Earrings by Magerit Joyas

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