Jewellery Historian, issue # 06 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

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08-Issue Globe 12-Editor's letter 14-News News from around the globe 18-Auctions Ruby world record at Sotheby's 26-Interview : Lydia Courteille 36-Special Christmas Wishes from beloved jewellery designers 64- Lydia Courteille L'ĂŠsprit visionaire 92- Carrera y Carrera More than 125 years of jewelry tradition 106- Education Baroque pearls of the 16th century 118- Carrera y Carrera Once upon a time 134- ZOLOTAS Quintessential Greek jewellery 152-The unique breathtaking beauty of gems Diamond 158-Our Faves Diamond jewellery we loved this month 201-JH Travel ( supplement )

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WORLD AIDS DAY

I am a person living with HIV. I face these issues. 1 DECEMBER

2014

I may have tuberculosis

I am criminalized

My status was disclosed without my consent

I can be arrested for exposing my partner to HIV

My family may reject me I do not have access to treatment I am scared that I will lose my job I face discrimination from health staff

I have no one who understands I have a right to dignified care I am proud to help my peers living with HIV

I had the courage to seek treatment and care

Source: UNAIDS

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Editor's letter

Jewellery gives you experience glamour, luxury, and elegance. With the right jewellery you can cherish the special memories and intimate luxury that a real piece of jewelry will bring to you on important days of your life. Our readers travel worldwide and throughout their journey, they want to enjoy amenities and services designed to help them to rest easy or get down to business. For this reason we created our new travel supplement. Our new travel supplement answers to the needs of our readers, who want to experience dedicated service, exceptional comfort and understated elegance in every stage of their journey. This special issue, is our first December issue and we are so proud and happy to celebrate the holidays with all you. You are so many around the globe and I would like to thank you for your precious love and support. At the Jewellery Historian, every month, we handpick the finest jewelry for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. At this issue, we focus on diamonds. Our "diamonds" are the talented jewellery designers and they send you their wishes and season greetings. We handpick for you the most beautiful diamond jewellery for "our faves". A special issue, made with lot of love, for you all, our precious readers.Thank you for your friendship, your loyalty and the opportunity to be a part of your life. Our best wishes for a happy holiday season and a prosperous, happy new year !

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief

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$'/(5 819(,/6 ,76 1(: %287,48( ,1 *67$$' This year, Adler is changing its Gstaad address. Previously located on Lauenenstrasse, the new boutique will open its doors on 20th December 2014 at number 74 on the Promenade. This pedestrian street and historic Gstaad location welcomes the jeweller into a new, exclusive and prestigious setting. Customers will be able to discover unique Haute Joaillerie creations and Adler’s collections in a 100 m2 space, where the brand’s identity blends seamlessly with the refined location. /GNSN BNTQSDRX NE #+$1 ). (++($12 g #+$1 ). (++($12

Divided into small rooms for more intimacy during your visit, the boutique also offers a bright and contemporary atmosphere. Adler’s signature tones of red and cream, the exposed woodwork and walnut flooring create a warm welcome and reflect Gstaad’s identity as an iconic Alpine resort. This is a unique and authentic space that Adler is delighted to present to its customers. About Adler 2HMBD CKDQ G@R ADDM @ '@TSD )N@HKKDQHD AQ@MC MDRSKDC @S SGD UDQX GD@QS NE SGD FQD@S SQ@CHSHNMR NE FNKCRLHSGDQX @MC IDVDKKDQX %NQ LNQD SG@M @ BDMSTQX HS G@R DMRTQDC DWODQSHRD @MC DWBDKKDMBD CQ@VHMF HSR HMROHQ@SHNM EQNL GTL@MHSXŗR FQD@SDRS @QSHRSHB VNQJR @MC BTKSTQDR "QD@SHUD @MC HMMNU@SHUD CKDQ OQDRDMSR DWBDOSHNM@K @MC SHLDKDRR OHDBDR SG@S DLANCX QDEHMDLDMS DWBKTRHUHSX @MC L@CD SN LD@RTQD CDRHFM M CKDQ IDVDKKDQX BQD@SHNM HR @ KTWTQX HSDL O@Q DWBDKKDMBD @ TMHPTD @MC DWBKTRHUD NAIDBS SG@S CHEEDQR EQNL GNLNFDMDNTR OQNCTBSR Adler has six boutiques around the world, where customers can discover its creations: Geneva, Gstaad, Hong Kong, London, Tokyo and Doha.

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-(:(//(5< +,6725,$1 6 23(1 &$// )25 ('8&$7,21 The Jewellery Historian proudly opens its doors to potential collaborators, scholars, contributors, collaborators, brands, designers and friends. The open call for scholars, contributors & collaborators has just been announced! The new program is intended to create networks of researchers, entrepreneurs, journalists, geeks, and public intellectuals who are sharing our research interests and have a vision for a project related to jewellery.

We are looking for scholars, researchers and PhD students to join our team of volunteers. All our positions are aimed at the motivated individual who wants to promote jewellery and art education.

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We are searching for people who want to make education and educational resources accessible to all. We are searching for people that can contribute in making the Jewellery Historian's Educational Resources, resources freely accessible, documents and media that are useful for teaching, learning, and assessing as well as for research purposes.

We are not a school or educational institution. We simply want to create digitised materials offered freely and openly for educators, students, and self-learners to use for teaching, learning, and research. At the Jewellery Historian, we believe that this is also a great way to showcase the work of unique talented artists and brands, not known to the general public.

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Our goal is to offer educational resources & material s available to anyone who wants to learn about jewellery. To join us, e-mail us at info@jewelleryhistorian.com

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MEETING LYDIA COURTEILLE Interview to Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

Taking a stroll along the rue Saint Honoré, a stone’s throw from the Place Vendôme in Paris, Lydia Courteille’s small boutique stands out as a beacon to all jewellery connoisseurs and gemstone lovers. Here flamboyant and theatrical design meets rarity. Lydia Courteille – biochemist, antiquarian and collector, traveler – has always had a fascination with the beautiful, the strange and the curious. An autodidact, her inquisitive mind knowsnno limits, be it for design or her choice of stones. Her unique jewels start with either a drawing or evolve around a central theme, which is usually a stone. Iridescent stones are a favourite, especially opals, moonstones, cat’s eyes; the play of light on the surface creates a special atmosphere, a mystery.

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MEETING LYDIA COURTEILLE ,QWHUYLHZ WR /XFDV 6DPDOWDQRV )HUULHU The most important names in fashion and the arts are openly your fans. How did you start your career? After science studies I found myself in jewelry and antiquities field by a pure chance…I had to pass a gemology license, though, before launching my own brand. Each collection you make shows us your amazing creative universe. Where do you get your inspiration? I travel a lot which is an amazing source of inspiration for me! I am also fascinated by archéology and civilisation studies! I collect stones and fossils since I am eight so my initial idea of jewelry is to reconcile natures and human creativity! Which is the artistic or historical period you consider a great source of inspiration. 18th century in Europe Are there any persons in art, fashion, architecture and design that inspire you with their work? I love Art Deco, particularry R. Mallet-Steven’s architecture. I admire Van Gogh’s emotional painting, French decorator Madelaine Castaing for her indefinable “blue”, Janine Janet for her incredible shell sculptures, illustrator Christian Berard for the impact he made on contemporary perception of fashion, decorator Leila Menchari for her astonishing set designs.

Which are your favorite materials? Which materials and techniques your favor? I love working with gold. I use a lot of blackened gold in my creations. Also – precious stones with strong and contrasted colors. Which material you believe that you will never stop using in your collections? I love and will always be using colored stone – sapphires, diamonds. I am sure to stay always loyal to my favorite opals! What according to you contributed to your success? I think it is my unconventionality, my boldness. The generosity that makes me share my culture, my emotions through my jewelry. I like to make my customers discover things, initiate and provoke amazement. What do you like most about being a jewelry designer? My ambition is to leave behind me something more than just a piece of jewelry – a creation that will mark a certain time period. This is a way for me to cope for immortality- the way to express my rebellion. Your heroes in real life? People taking care of others without asking anything in return. > -HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ

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>What according to you contributed to your success? I think it is my unconventionality, my boldness. The generosity that makes me share my culture, my emotions through my jewelry. I like to make my customers discover things, initiate and provoke amazement. What do you like most about being a jewelry designer? My ambition is to leave behind me something more than just a pice of jewelry – a creation that will mark a certain time period. This is a way for me to cope for immortality- the way to express my rebellion. The most valuable lesson you have learned until today? To make the most of the moment and share happiness with those who are worth it! How do you define luxury? Luxury is something we do not actually need, but that makes one happy whenever it is acquired! Do you think that there is a relation between fashion and jewellery design? 100% Which fashion designers inspire you with their work? ALAIA – for his independence and architectural approach, Marni for boldness of color combination and irony, Karl Lagerfeld – for his energy and erudition. Are men more open-minded about wearing jewellery than they used to be?

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>Which piece of jewellery every person should wear ? Ring and earrings Could you please tell us about your latest collection? My latest collection is inspired by kites. Those are gracious, easy to wear and very colorful earrings, which I propose to wear on one-ear only! Which is the destination that you find the most inspiring? India & Ethiopia Which is your favorite destination for summer holidays and which is your favorite for Christmas ? Last one was India. Next will be Patagonia Your favorite addresses ?

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Alaia boutique for dresses. Martine de Richeville for her fantastic therapeutical massage. Hotel’s Costes restaurant for dinner, Saint James D’Albanie for lunch. Galeries Lafayette or Bon Marché to make a quick fashio update. Avenue Montaigne for shopping and especially Marni boutique. What we should expect from you in the future? My book to be published. Could you tell us about your upcoming projects? Collaboration with µParis Museum of Decorative Arts Your favorite motto? "Le Bonheur se reconnait au bruit qu’il fait quand il s’en va" by Tristan Bernard Which is your advice to young and aspiring jewellery designers? I don’t know. “I create jewelry like others write poems” by Madelaine Castaing

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Lydia Courteille L'ésprit visionaire

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Lydia Courteille L'ésprit visionaire

Parisian born Lydia Courteille is very passionate; her principal ambition is to share her courage and extravaganza by creating jewels; possessing a lot of humour and imagination. Expert in gemology and history, lover of nature and symbols, Lydia Courteille creates one-of-a-kind «Conversational» jewelry pieces. She was also one of the first to re-introduce in contemporary jewelry the eternal symbol of «passing time» - the skull, alias; Vanitas. As a real visionary, Lydia Courteille is never in fashion - she is ahead of it. Courageous in her creativity, she constantly develops designs for several permanent collections, as well as eloborating new ones in parallel..>

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>Lydia Courteille works in collaboration with artisans through-out the world. Lydia Courteille’s workshops are situated around the world in order to benefit from the most varied and high quality techniques provided by contemporary artisans. She preserves a cultural heritage by using in the production of her designs local techniques, in order to maintain a workshop’s speciality. Lydia Courteille is strongly focused in collecting some of the most extraordinary precious stones and the most unusual materials for unique jewelry designs. Each collection by Lydia Courteille represents a universe: 2D BQDS &@QCDM 3N "@RR@MCQ@ !DRSH@QX EQHB@M 5@MHSHDR $RNSDQHBHRL "@LDNR SGD SG 2HFM @MC SGD "TQHNRHSX "@AHMDS &@QCDMR NE 7NBGHLHKBN L@YNMH@ VHSGHM D@BG XNT VHKK EHMC @M HMEHMHS @LNTMS NE OHDBDR -DV L@SDQH@KR @R VDKK @R OQDBHNTR FDLR NESDM RDQUD @R @ EHQRS HMROHQ@SHNM ENQ SGD BNKKDBSHNM K@FTM@ AKTD NO@KR EQNL /DQT O@Q@HA@ SNTQL@KHMDR EQNL AQ@YHK i'@HQ NE 5DMTRy QNBJ BQXRS@KR FQDDM STQPTNHRD EQNL 3TQJLDMHRS@M DSB !

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>The collection by Lydia Courteille are often influced by antique jewelry: such as anitique cameos set in baroque styled rings. The brand’s collections are always very different, nevertheless they retain natural, historical or symbolical references. They are extremely luxurious and spiritual - every time. Even though Lydia Courteille fascinates the fashion world with her advertising campaigns she stands apart from the images we are used to seeing in the fashion press and media. The fairy-tale like ambiance, bold and disturbing images are Lydia Courteille’s signatures. Glamour is pushed to it’s extreme; the drama and suspense make these images almost as surreal as a fantastic vision. Lydia imagines the women who are going to wear her jewelry: strong, mystical, liberated and ready to assume, fragile and feminine at the same time. Lydia Courteille’s clients appreciate the dual personality of her jewels; they express at the same time a sense of unease and an overwhelming happiness. One of the most striking examples of a project collaboration is Lydia Courteille’s website CDRHFM CDUDKNOODC VHSG SGD +HSGT@MH@M @QSHRS -@SG@KHD 2G@T VGNŗR CHFHS@K @QSVNQJ QDOQDRDMS RTQQD@K @MC RSQ@MFD VNLDM 'DQ BG@Q@BSDQR @QD RSQNMF @MC ONVDQETK @S SGD R@LD SHLD ITRS KHJD +XCH@ "NTQSDHKKDŗR IDVDKQX The result - nine fascinating illustrations for each of Lydia Courteille’s emblematic collections combining fairy tale,

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>Lydia Courteille’s creativity, the baroque character of her jewelry and it’s bold attitude was subject to numerous fruitful collaborations with many talented artists. Her jewelry has been solicitated for Woody Allen’s movie, Midnight in Paris, for the publicity campaigne of Yves Saint Laurent’s perfume «Opium», for various fashion shows by Carven, Alexis Mabille, Prada and McQueen for Givenchy, in collaboration with the digital artist Nathlie Shau, with Roxanne Rodriguez for interior design, even Bettina Rheims in a photography project depicting Paris. The international jewelry show «Couture» reunites every year in America the most re- markable jewelers in the world. In 2012 Lydia Courteille was debuting in the event, presenting her latest collection «Amazonia».

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The prestigious members of the jury (Susan Abels, Stephen Webster, Janice Blumberg, Eric Ford, Claudia Mata & Alison Rowe) selected from over 200 participants the most innovative, creative and bold designs. Lydia Courteille was chosen award winner as the best «colored gemstone Design» for the green turquoise bracelet with diamonds, emeralds and green garnets. >

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>A recent and important collaboration influenced the renovation of Lydia Courteilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Parisian boutique ÂŤRue Saint HonorĂŠÂť. %NQ SGD O@RS XD@QR SGD ANTSHPTDĹ&#x2014;R @SLNROGDQD G@R ADDM HMROHQDC EQNL @MSHPTD BTQHNRHSX B@AHMDSR VHSG QDEDQDMBDR SN RXLANKHRL M@STQD GHRSNQX @MC FDLNKNFX 3GD CDDO QNX@K AKTD AK@BJ @MC FNKC BNKNQR BQD@SD @ LXRSHB@K LNNC (M VGDM +XCH@ "NTQSDHKKD LDS SGD S@KDMSDC HMSDQHNQ CDBNQ@SNQ 1NW@MD 1NCQHFTDY RGD F@UD GDQ @ MN KHLHSR ANTMC@QX SN FHUD @ MDV EK@HQ SN SGD EK@FRGHO RSNQD Roxanne Rodriguez kept the main codes of the boutiqueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sappearance,andre-createdanatmosphereof timeless luxury.

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7LPHOLQH 1980 In the hope of repairing an old wrist watch, Lydia COurteille frequently visits and antique jeweler, where she will discover her passion for jewelry. 1981 The begining of Lydia Courteilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s journey into the jewelry world. 1985 Her curiosity for antique jewelry encourages her to obtain her degree as a certified gem- mologist. 1987 Lydia Courteilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first boutique opens on rue Duphot. She is then a passionate collector of 18th Century jewelry sets and jewelry pieces created by Suzanne Belperron. 1989 For her most loyal customers Lydia Courteille starts creating custom made pieces. The boutique carries the signboard ÂŤBijoux Anciens & CrĂŠationsÂť. 1993 Lydia Courteille moves her boutique to rue Saint HonorĂŠ in Paris and will rapidly gain the reputation as a jewelers cabinet of curiosity. 2004 Lydia Courteille established her first international retailing in America, Russia and Hong Kong. 2007 Lydia Courteilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creations step up onto the catwalk with Givenchy and Alexi Mabilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hautre couture collection, they are also exposed during the Prada boutique presention and begins to be coveted by International press. 2009 In collaboration with the Lithuanian digital artist Nathalie Shau, the website www.lydiacourteille.com is created. 2010 The sale of her one-of-a-kind pieces expand all around the world. 2011 Lydia Courteille opens her first franchise store in Moscow. Newly re-decorated by the talented Roxanne Rodriguez, the boutique rue Saint HonorĂŠ becomes the envy of interior design.

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Carrera y Carrera MORE THAN 125 YEARS OF JEWELRY TRADITION Its jewelry tradition and exceptional craftsmanship have made Carrera y Carrera one of the international references among jewelry brands, renowned as one of the 30 most prestigious jewelry firms in the world. The brand has become an icon of luxury due to its unique style, imaginative designs, and magnificent jewelry pieces where gold and precious stones come to life.

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"It is the time of Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Balenciaga and prĂŞt-Ă porter. In 1960, when King Baudouin I of Belgium married the Spanish aristocrat Fabiola de Mora y AragĂłn, the bridal tiara with set stones was crafted in the Carrera workshop."

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"Carrera y Carrera came to life at the hands of a jeweler and artist, a visionary and master of goldsmithing techniques. Manuel Carrera has been at the forefront of Spanish jewelry design since the second half of the twentieth century. He is widely acknowledged as the most respected designer, creative visionary, and innovative entrepreneur of the sector."

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At the Jewellery Historian our main mission is to promote, inspire and educate and for this reason we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. The main goal of the Education column is to offer in every issue materials and resources that are available to you completely free of charge, that will allow you to learn further. It is also an open invitation to educational institutions, museums & cultural institutions, researchers & scholars to join us, in order to make education and knowledge accessible to all. Created to promote jewellery, the expertise and vision of famous international jewellery maisons & with the goal of raising the awareness of jewellery design as a form of creative expression, the Jewellery Historian is one of the few free e-magazines worldwide, related to jewellery, to offer free of charge such a quality of editorial line and ressources.

Left page : Portrait of Hortense de Beauharnais, Queen of Holland, Anne Louis Girodet-Trioson, c. 1805 - c. 1809 canvas, h 60.9cm × w 49.8cm. Hortense was Napoleon’s stepdaughter. Through her marriage to Napoleon’s brother, Louis Napoleon, she became Queen of Holland in 1806. Their marriage was not a success, and Hortense found Holland a cold and gloomy place. She preferred to live with her sons at Napoleon’s court in Paris, where she had her portrait painted by Girodet, the leading artist of the day. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

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Amphitrite on a dolphin, anonymous, ca. 1580 - ca. 1600 Figure: gold, partially enamelled, pearls and precious stones; pedestal: patinated gold, h 14,5cm. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

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Baroque Pearls of the 16th century Many thousands of years ago, long before written history, human beings probablydiscoveredthefirstpearlwhilesearchingtheseashoreforfood. Throughout history, the pearl, with its warm inner glow and shimmering iridescence, has been one of the most highly prized and sought-after gems.Countlessreferencestothepearlcanbefoundinthereligionsand mythology of cultures from the earliest times. In this issue, we focus on baroque pearls, used in jewellery from the 16th century.

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Pendant in the form of a cock Germany, Anonymous, c. 1600 baroque pearl, diamonds, rubies gold and enamel. h 7.5cm Ă&#x2014; w 4.5cm. In the 16th century, large, irregularly shaped pearls often served as the point of departure for a jewellery design. In this case, the pearl forms the body of a cock. Its head, tail and feet are made of gold. The jeweller enamelled these parts in various colours and set them with (what are probably) rubies. This cock was certainly part of the Dutch stadtholdersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; collection from the 18th century.

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Pendant in the form of a sphinx Italy, Anonymous, c. 1600 baroque pearls, rubies gold and enamel. h 8.5 cm Ă&#x2014; w 2.9 cm Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam -HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ

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Plate with the bust of a woman, Anonymous, France, c. 1500 - c. 1600 baroque pearls, gold and enamel. h 3.8cm Ă&#x2014; 2.8cm w. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam -HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ

Margarita Trip as Minerva, Instructing her Sister Anna Maria Trip Ferdinand Bol, 1663 ( h 208 cm Ă&#x2014; w 179 cm ) Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

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VFKRODUV MRLQ RXU WHDP You are an scholar, researcher, a PhD student ? We invite you to join us today ! We are looking for scholars, researchers and PhD students to join our team of volunteers. All our positions are aimed at the motivated individual who wants to promote jewellery and art education. We are searching for people who want to make education and educational resources accessible to all. We are searching for people that can contribute in making the Jewellery Historian's Educational Resources, resources freely accessible, documents and media that are useful for teaching, learning, and assessing as well as for research purposes. At the Jewellery Historian, experience is important, but for us passion and commitment are even more important than experience. You must speak, write and understand english, since all our articles are published in english and english is our working language, but any foreign language is a plus. Please note that at the Jewellery Historian we do not have and/or offer any salary position. All our team are freelancers & volunteers. Conctact us today at info@jewelleryhistorian.com

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NEXT MONTH

JH Travel

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THE TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT OF THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

JH Travel

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year 01 | number 02 | january 2015

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6 : , 6 6 F i r s t Your home above the clouds Timeless elegance at the Plaza New York

EXCLUSIVE

Polynesian hospitality at Pearl Beach Resort

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Fine dining at Le Meurice, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Hotel of Kingsâ&#x20AC;?

TIKEHAU PEARL BEACH RESORT

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Carrera y Carrera 2QFH XSRQ D WLPH An Eastern legend has it that 46 centuries ago, there was a Chinese princess named Liu-Tsu who, at the age of 14, was forced to marry a barbaric Khan against her will for political reasons. As revenge, Liu-Tsu hid in her shawl the best-guarded mystery of the Far East, unknown until that time – the secret of Imperial Silk embroidery – and she threw it into the depths of the ocean. Centuries later, the captain of the Nao San Felipe plied the 7 seas, from Manila to Acapulco and from there to Seville, fighting adversaries from every continent. One day when the seas were calm, he glimpsed something in the water. The shawl appeared in the hands of the captain, who guarded it as if it were treasure. That same night, a storm broke. People say that one April afternoon, the ship appeared by itself in the port of Seville; nothing was known of its captain or crew. A woman found the shawl and gave it to a young embroiderer for embroidering. This woman was the captain’s lover and an aristocrat who, along with the young embroiderer, protected the mystery. Carrera y Carrera now reveals this legend through its new collection, Seda Imperial. Discover all its secrets.

crafted in natural silk with skill and dexterity. The creation of a shawl requires the expert hands of an embroiderer that dedicates months of work to create a garment and adornment of incalculable value. Carrera y Carrera jewels are created in a similar fashion through meticulous work by master goldsmiths. The collection includes the most characteristic elements of the Manila shawl. “To wrap oneself in it is like dressing with a painting.” Benito Pérez Galdós, Fortunata y Jacinta.

Emperatriz : Seduction, femininity, and generous volumes This collection is inspired by the floral patterns of the Manila shawl. In Spain, they were the most valuable. Colorful gardens of varied flowers encompassing different meanings: among others, the rose was secret, the lily denoted purity, the thistle and the lotus were reminiscent of China, the cherry blossom signified heroism and bravery, and the peony symbolized the empress.

The jewels are presented as flowers with petals of varying sizes that provide realism as well as Seda Imperial, Be seduced by the mystery of volume to the pieces. The transparency of the the new collection from Carrera y Carrera precious stones reveals the painstaking work of the interior of the piece, creating a magnifying glass effect that allows each detail to be Over time, that shawl that Liu-Tsu threw in the enlarged and appreciated in an extraordinary ocean became what is now known as the Manila fashion. shawl, considered an adaptation between immemorial Chinese tradition and a Spanish Asymmetrical pieces where different emblem thanks to the fusion of Eastern and proportions are visible and give the pieces a Western cultures. sense of movement with very pure parts and more richly adorned parts through which the The Manila shawl, originally from China, is a whole framework may be appreciated, creating purely handmade, hand-embroidered garment an astonishing set of contrasts. -HZHOOHU\ +LVWRULDQ

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EMPERATRIZ MAXI PENDANT IN YELLOW AND WHITE GOLD WITH DIAMONDS

EMPERATRIZ MEDIUM RING IN YELLOW GOLD AND DIAMOND

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SIERPES MAXI NECKLACE IN YELLOW GOLD, ONYX AND DIAMONDS

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Sierpes : Fascinating pieces full of detail preserves its secrets, traditions, and customs. and movement The name of this collection is inspired by one of the most iconic streets in Seville, Sierpes Street. Located in the center of the Andalusian capital, Sierpes Street partly takes its name from its sinuous shape that mimics the movement of the Manila shawlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fringe, the star of this collection.

The jewels present a pair of love-struck herons linked together in an embrace, wrapped around a prasiolite as if it were a pond and wanting to remain like that for the rest of their days.

Pieces full of great symbolism that emulate the contours of the shawl. Featuring The pieces present lattices that imitate the openwork, lightweight, asymmetric, and openwork of shawls, simulating threads of crafted in great detail, the herons seem to silk that entangle to create embroidered dance in the pond. Jewels that allow one to fly to a world full of secrets and hidden frames. passions. The painstaking work of the fringe is reflected in the meticulous craftsmanship OrquĂdeas : Stunning jewels of of the jewels created by hand, detail by extraordinary beauty detail. The Orchid represents one of the most Sierpes offers the different stages of the popular floral motifs in Manila shawls. shawl: a more figurative stage where the principal motif is a flower; a more geometric A symbol of nature and elegance, this stage with a relief featuring lattices, and flower is the main theme of this collection finally, more theatrical pieces featuring that forms links with great movement, as if they were part of the Seda Imperial Fine Jewelry line. swaying fringe. A love song rises from the orchid, conveying a message of seduction, Garzas : Eternity and passion sinuousness, and The royal heron is the true star of this supreme beauty from the person who gifts collection. A symbol of grace, this bird was a it, as if it were poetry. common decorative element in Manila shawls, adapting to the iconography liked In the early 19th century, the aristocracy by the women of the period. Embroidered distinguished itself from the bourgeoisie with care with a historic beauty where by its particular preference for this flower as a symbol of higher social status. craftsmanship and luxury were latent. The jewels are presented as if they were bouquets, with great volume, and sculpted with exquisite delicacy by the Carrera y Carrera master goldsmiths. Each piece is an orchid itself. Priceless craftsmanship in gold where the mini-sculpture is the star of each piece In Chinese culture, it is considered one of created in yellow gold, diamonds, and ruby the most important birds, one that cabochons. Announcing the arrival of Spring, the heron symbolizes a change of life and is a talisman to attract happiness and prosperity. According to the ancient art of Feng Shui, the image of a heron is used to ward off negative energy.

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supplement

THE TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT OF THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

JH Travel

速

year 01 | number 01 | december 2014

Rea d

The s F i r s t side to t fines C l a s s t rav el way

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On-board elegance

EXCLUSIVE

The Landmark Mandarin Oriental Experience

Fine in-room dining

British Airways's First Class Experience

JH Travel

JH Travel December 2014

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Page 14

With just 113 guestrooms, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental is the best 5 star Hong Kong boutique hotel with luxurious rooms and suites centrallylocated in the heart of chic boutique retreat in the heart of Hong Kong’s business and fashion districts. Famed for it's stunning contemporary design, peaceful ambience and impeccable service, it offer to its guests a highly exclusive experience that exudes style and serenity.

Page 18

AMBER Restaurant

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With a stunning dining room as its backdrop, Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus’ contemporary interpretation of French cuisine has earned numerous awards, including two Michelin stars, No.4 in Asia’s Best 50 Restaurants and Best Restaurant in China by S.Pellegrino. Using only the finest ingredients, Ekkebus uses his classical training and contemporary talent to create dishes to excite and enthuse even the most jaded palate.

Page 22

The Oriental Spa

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Offering a uniquely personalised experience, The Oriental Spa at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental is the perfect urban escape. Spread over two luxurious floors, this harmonious place of wellbeing offers far more than the traditional spa experience. Engulfed in a haven of serenity, you will quickly forget that you are in the heart of a city. Our spa’s tranquil, meditative setting allows you to embark on a personalised journey towards wellbeing and relaxation.

Page 26 /GNSN BNTQSDRX NE #NQBGDRSDQ "NKKDBSHNM g #NQBGDRSDQ "NKKDBSHNM

Landmark Mandarin Oriental experience

Fine in-room dining Dorchester Collection is launching “Taste of Dorchester Collection”, a new in-room dining menu highlighting classic dishes reinterpreted by hotels across the portfolio. Cosmopolitan travellers at any Dorchester Collection address around the globe can enjoy these signature dishes that celebrate and capture the essence of each individual hotel

JH Travel /GNSN BNTQSDRX NE !QHSHRG HQV@XR g !QHSHRG HQV@XR

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Editor-in-Chief

The finest way to travel Since our first issue, we included a travel destination. In this issue, we introduce you to our new periodical travel supplement. JH Travel was created to answer to the needs of our readers for luxury and relaxing ways of travelling. In this very first issue of JH Travel, discover the First Class of British Airways. British Airways was the first commercial airline to introduce a fully-flat bed with its First class cabin in 1996. With more than 170 destinations in 70 countries, British Airways It is one of the few airlines to fly to all six permanently inhabited continents.

JH Travel #01 ®

TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT THE JEWELLERY HISTORIANOF Founder / Editor-in-Chief: Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Publisher: JEWELLERY HISTORIAN / HOMO EVOLUTION Editorial: JEWELLERY HISTORIAN Design: JEWELLERY HISTORIAN Website: www.jewelleryhistorian.com E-mail: info@jewelleryhistorian.com All material published in this e-magazine, it's supplements and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and digital brands, neither the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this e-magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian, publisher and team assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by brands, without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles are the author's own and do not reflect the view of the Jewellery Historian, the editor-inchief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine.© 2014

A founding member of the oneworld® alliance, British Airways's Executive Clubmemberscanearnandredeempointsoneligibleoneworldflights,and use their rewards and privileges throughout the alliance. Experience dedicated service, exceptional comfort and understated British elegance in every stage of your journey, from the moment you book to your final destination. From luxurious lounges to on-board fine dining, we make sure everything meets our meticulous standards. First is your ticket to exceptional comfort and impeccable service in their most elegant surroundings. It's the finest way to travel !

JH Travel 04

British Airways's First

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The finest way to travel

JH Travel 05

On-board elegance First is British Airways’ flagship premium product. British Airways was the first commercial airline to introduce a fully-flat bed with its First class cabin in 1996. The current First cabin and product was launched in 2010. First brings together balanced privacy, comfort, space and contemporary British design. It draws on the airline’s heritage, focusing on quality and attention to detail. First offers unprecedented levels of sophistication, comfort and refinement, and is an experience entirely centred around your relaxation and privacy. The new cabin has a sophisticated and timeless look, by drawingonthecoloursandfabricsofseniorrankingBritishnaval officers’ uniforms, known as Naval Barathea. The high quality material is deep blue and almost indiscernible to black. This is mixed with whites and silvers and accented with reds, giving a modern, understated twist on the Union Flag’s red, white and blue. Taking inspiration from the private jet industry, each customer will now have their own personal double window with electronic blind, to enhance their ownership of the space and control the amount of light flooding their suite. Cabin mood lighting will gently change throughout the flight to reflect key times of the day. Breakfast lighting will be crisp and fresh, lunchtime will reflect soft midday sunshine and the warm feeling of candlelight will be used in the evening. British Airways's First is your ticket to exceptional comfort and impeccable service in our most elegant surroundings. It's definitly the finest way to travel.

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JH Travel

JH Travel 07

Style and comfort Your First suite is a haven of style and comfort where sophisticated and contemporary British design meet impeccable service and attention to detail. Whether you want to unwind or get down to business, you'll find you're equally well equipped. Whenever you want some rest, your seat turns into a 198cm (6ft 6in) fully flat bed with a luxurious 200-thread count Egyptian cotton quilted mattress accompanied by a 400-thread count white cotton duvet and pillow, while you slip into a pair of wonderfully soft cotton pyjamas. Freshen up at any time with a range of premium skincare products including eye gel, lip balm and moisturiser which come in a BA signature Anya Hindmarch bag, exclusively designed for First. Each customer will have their own wardrobe complete with shoe compartment, enabling them to easily access their clothes and belongings. As well as the main table, a side table has been introduced to the arm of the suite for customers who want to continue working whilst they snack. The main table can also be folded in half to become a writing desk complete with leather trim.Your suite includes a personal power supply for laptops and electronic devices that allows you to continue working. The suite control unit makes moving the seat extremely smooth and simple and can be adjusted to the required position. The base of the unit glows green when the seat is in the correct position for take-off and landing enabling cabin crew to make an easy, visual check of the cabin after all the security procedures are complete. The in-flight entertainment screen is more than doubling in size to 15 inches and each suite offers a USB charging point and RCA jack to enable customers to view content from their MP3 player on the main screen. British Airways’ heritage manifests itself through the use on menus of the ‘Care in the Air’ character designed by twentieth century cartoonist Cyril Kenneth Byrd, whose pen-name was Fougasse. The airline’s Coat of Arms, awarded in 1975 with the legend ‘To fly to serve’ appears on the washbags by Anya Hindmarch.

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JH Travel

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First dining First dining is indulgent and delicious, choose from an exclusive ‘a la carte’ menu designed by leading chefs from around the world. Classic British dishes feature highly with an emphasis on simplicity, freshness and quality of ingredients. Enjoy our enhanced dining experience at a time that suits you. The dining experience will begin with an amuse bouche, in the style of top restaurants. K@B@QSDCHMHMF@KKNVRBTRSNLDQRSNDMINX@ENQL@KLD@KRDQUHBD 6GHSD KHMDM S@AKDBKNSGR @MC EHMD ANMD BGHM@ RDS SGD RBDMD ENQ @ LDMT NE !QHSHRG BK@RRHBR @MC QDFHNM@K CHRGDR NM RODBHEHB QNTSHMFR "TRSNLDQR VGN VNTKC ITRS KHJD @ RM@BJ B@M BGNNRD @ LNQD HMENQL@K @ K@ B@QSD RDQUHBD SG@S VHKK AD K@HC NTS NM SGD RHCD S@AKD DM@AKHMF SGDL SN BNMSHMTD VNQJHMF HE SGDX RN BGNNRD 3GDQD HR DUDM @ !HRSQN RDKDBSHNM RGNTKC SGDX E@MBX RNLDSGHMF @ KHSSKD KHFGSDQ The wine selection remains among the best in the sky, with the addition of a classic champagne cocktail. If you are flying over breakfast time you can start your day with a classic English breakfast, with a choice of juices, smoothies, yoghurts, cereals and pastries. (E XNT OQDEDQ @ KHFGSDQ NOSHNM SG@S HR @U@HK@AKD SNN @KK XNT MDDC SN CN HR @RJ If it’s more important for you to sleep then request the Express breakfast, which will be served closer to landing maximising your sleep time. Afternoon tea has been an English tradition since 1830. An Afternoon Tea service inspired by iconic London hotel, The Dorchester is offered on board, recreating the British ritual and tradition of finely cut sandwiches, sumptuous cakes and teas from around the world. (E XNT RSHKK G@UD QNNL ENQ LNQD HMBKTCD V@QL RBNMDR I@L @MC BKNSSDC BQD@L @BBNLO@MHDC AX @ RODBH@K AKDMC NE SD@ BQD@SDC DRODBH@KKX ENQ !QHSHRG HQV@XR A real experience to savour.

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Premium service First customers are used to the very best in life, be that at home, work or whilst on the move. Consequently, all cabin crew that serve in the First cabin have been through British Airwaysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; premium service training. This results in a style parallel with that of the industry leaders in hospitality, delivering exceptional and consistently excellent levels of service. The cabin crew set the scene and bring the British style alive. Their attention to detail, attentiveness and intuitive service style has the power to make the experience second to none. British Airawys's First crew, is equipped with the ability to prepare and present the meal service at its best and has a knowledge of the food and wines they are serving to the level of a top restaurant. Every aspect of the First experience has been thought through and developed by some of the best names in design, service and hospitality. At British Airways, the customer is at the heart of everything.

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Ground experience First customers can enjoy a dedicated check-in area and Fast Track security. Each customer is allowed three items of luggage, weighing up to 32kgs each. Flyers can relax before their flight in one of over 60 dedicated British Airways lounges and 90 partner lounges worldwide, none more luxuriousthantheGalleriesLoungesatHeathrow’sTerminal5giving customers the choice of The Concorde Room or the Galleries First Lounge. The Concorde Room can accommodate up to 156 of British Airway’s First customers. The lounge contains a fully serviced ‘Concorde Bar’ serving wines and spirits from across the world. A restaurant is available for First customers, which offers a selection of freshly prepared refreshments and meals throughout the day. A dedicated concierge desk enables customers to manage various aspects of their lives from booking theatre tickets and taxis to changing flight details. A discreet boardroom enables customers to conduct meetings and check their computers in complete privacy. The Concorde Room is also mirrored at New York’s JFK airport. Alternatively, First customers can choose to use the Galleries First Lounge with 542 seats. The lounge features ‘The Gold Bar’, which is covered in gold leaf and is lit by a Swarovski crystal chandelier. During peak times the bar, again stocked with some of the world’s most interesting wines and spirits, is manned or, if they prefer, customers can simply help themselves. The Wine Gallery has a selection of prestigious wines and offers wine tastings at selected times throughout the day. Customers looking for a glass of the best bubbly can head to the Champagne Bar. A Work and Entertainment Zone provides wired PCs across the lounge for customer use with free internet access and expansive download content. A dedicated customer service desk enables customers to arrange or amend flights and handle general queries. There are two large Elemis Travel Spas situated in the southern Galleries Lounges and the Galleries Arrivals Lounge both boasting six treatment rooms each and a slightly smaller version in the Galleries Club Lounge in the satellite building with four treatment rooms. These spas are open to First class and Club World customers or Gold Executive Club members travelling on long haul flights and all treatments are offered on a complimentary basis.

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HOTEL

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RIN 15

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The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, one of Asia’s most luxurious, stylish and contemporary hotels, is renowned for its cutting-edge and contemporary-designed spacious suites that evoke sophistication and luxury, as well as its accredited Oriental Spa that embraces exclusive specialist beauty brands including the chemicalfree spa brand, Sodashi. The spa also offers a range of personalised journeys towards wellbeing and relaxation. The hotel’s signature fine-dining restaurant Amber has won numerous awards and holds 2 Michelin stars. It is also the only Hong Kong restaurant to be listed on the 2014 San Pellegrino’s “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” and was named ‘Best Restaurant in China’ as well as claiming 4th place on the 2014 “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants” list. Helmed by Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus, Amber presents contemporary French cuisine in a stylish setting.The hotel’s comfortable and luxurious suites feature king-sized beds and goose down bedding by Ploh, large circular bathtubs and rainforest showers.

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With just 113 guestrooms, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a chic boutique retreat in the heart of Hong Kong’s business and fashion districts. Famed for a stunning contemporary design, peaceful ambience and impeccable service, it offer to guests a highly exclusive experience that exudes style and serenity.

Landmark Suites enjoy a dramatic and sophisticated feel with a striking design, beautiful furnishings and spacious layout. The entrance to the suite feels like a catwalk with a marble walkway leading into the spectacular open-plan bathroom. Equipped with a large circular bath, twin vanity units and stand-alone rainforest shower, it offers a soothing spa-like feel and place to really unwind. To one side of the bathroom lies the bedroom and to the other, a separate living room and office with a working desk. Designed in a clean, contemporary style with a subtle colour palette and state-of-the-art technology, the suite offers the perfect base for relaxation or entertaining, business or leisure. The Deluxe room is a perfect example of stylish contemporary design. These rooms enjoy a fluid open-plan layout incorporating a large bedroom and separate living room. Dark wood floors and cream walls act as the backdrop to elegantly neutral furnishings which include either a king-size or two double beds, a sofa and working

desk. Most spectacularly, a circular glass-enclosed bathroom takes pride of place in the room. A true oasis of luxurious calm, facilities include a seven-foot round spa bathtub, a walkin rainforest shower, and surround sound system. These rooms also feature a large walk-in wardrobe. The elegant Superior rooms enjoy a sophisticated décor with spacious accommodation. Beautifully designed with dark wood floors and lightly coloured walls, they enjoy something of a serene hideaway feel. Contemporary furnishings include the choice of a king-size or twin beds, a sofa and working desk. Adjoining the bathroom, there is a walk-in wardrobe and large bathroom with a stunning sunken hourglass bath, twin vanity units and separate walk-in rainforest shower. Offering an elegant retreat from the city, these rooms are well-suited to both business and leisure travellers who will appreciate their tranquil ambience, large size and modern décor.

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AMBER restaurant French dishes with Hong Kong influence

Born in Holland, Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus fell in love with food as a child. Following in the footsteps of his restaurantowning grandparents who taught him the importance of using only the freshest produce, he is now regarded as one of the best chefs in

Sunlight illuminates the eponymous hues at lunchtime while evenings feel as Parisian as the restaurant’s two Michelin stars. In the inviting, elegant dining room of interiors by visionary Adam Tihany, Hong Kong’s most conveniently located power tables sit at generous intervals for privacy while allowing diners to cast their eyes upon enticing contemporary French dishes coming from the talent-filled kitchen of Chef Richard Ekkebus.

Hong Kong.His 52-strong team of talented chefs share his committed work ethic and under his leadership have won two Michelin stars for six years running. Blending cutting-edge style with inventive lighting, the restaurant’s dramatic design provides the perfect setting for Amber’s awardwinning cuisine. With a breathtaking bronze chandelier as its centrepiece, the décor uses warm natural hues to create an elegant ambience that allows the masterful menu to be the focus of what is an incredible dining experience at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong.

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20 Sunlight illuminates the eponymous hues at lunchtime while evenings feel as Parisian as the restaurant’s two Michelin stars. In the inviting, elegant dining room of interiors by visionary Adam Tihany, Hong Kong’s most conveniently located power tables sit at generous intervals for privacy while allowing diners to cast their eyes upon enticing contemporary French dishes coming from the talent-filled kitchen of Chef Richard Ekkebus. Trained in the illustrious kitchens of Alain Passard, Guy Savoy and Pierre Gagnaire, the Dutchman cooks firmly in the French tradition while taking full advantage of Hong Kong’s unique crossroads between East and West, incorporating amadai fish line caught and delivered the same day from Japan, seasonal blue lobsters from Brittany, Tasmanian truffles, Spanish fraise de bois and Chinese dragonfruit. Pair Amber classic dishes like Mieral Bresse pigeon breast with wild cep mushrooms with Sommelier’s selection of 980 different references, all artisanal, top quality wines World class wine bottles fill culled from old world vintages in France and Italy as well as out the glass walls inside exciting bottles sourced from Chile, Argentina and Portugal. this sophisticated oasis of 2TQQNTMCDC NM @KK RHCDR AX SGD QDRS@TQ@MSŗR FK@RR BK@C VHMD BDKK@Q SGD /QHU@SD 6HMD 1NNL B@M RD@S TO SN SVDKUD FTDRSR @MC BNMEDQR SGD HCD@K RONS SN RHO @MC BDKDAQ@SD LHKDRSNMDR ODQRNM@K @MC OQNEDRRHNM@K MNS RNNM SN AD ENQFNSSDM Discreet, well-informed staff fluently recommends dishes yet offer a fresh absence of pretention that encourages diners to ask questions and develop their palate on every return.

luxurious privacy, creating a singularly sumptuous nest for discerning diners. The Private Wine Room is one of these refined rooms ideal gathering spots for personal and professional affairs.

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Lobster Club, Le Meurice, Paris

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Fine in-room dining

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JH Travel 28

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