Jewellery Historian, issue #15 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian

速

1Viktoria/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

INSIDE THIS ISSUE

November 2015 INTRODUCING BAVNA The essence of luxury and elegance

ICONS QEELIN When China and the West, meet at the “Silk Road”

INTERVIEW CARLO PALMIERO We meet one of the world’s most talented jewellery designers

A NEW MUST SETHI COUTURE Discover the new Heritage Collection

SPOTLIGHT VIVAAN Goodness of Life

TIMEPIECES ULYSSE ANCHOR TOURBILLON The Quintessence of mechanical technology timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel

23 41 67 83 133 151

REGULARS EDITOR’S LETTER Our editor-in-chief introduces you the new issue

ISSUE GLOBE All the jewellery designers of this issue at a glance

NEWS News from around the world

ESTHÈTE The editor’s jewellery choice of the month

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS AQUAMARINE Eva introduces us a new gemstone in every issue

OUR FAVES MUST-HAVE IN PARIS Jewellery for an important moment of life

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

03 05 09 101 103 111

Max Topchii / Shutterstock.com

Countryside

| Finland

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

EDITOR’S LETTER When I was studying jewellery design one of my favorite teachers was saying almost every day the same inspirational phrase “Artists do not follow trends, they liberate people from them”. The reason she was telling us this phrase was to motivate us and more importantly to liberate us from any “obligation” to follow trends. She wanted us to focus on semiotics, instead of trends. Jewellery pieces are created with aesthetic considerations, with a strong emphasis on craftsmanship for a specific purpose, to communicate with people. They always have a meaning and their significance is usually based only within that context. The comprehension of unconscious content in design ,as well as the interpretation of techniques that free the unconscious mind, allowing it to be expressed through the jewellery piece is a definitely a fascinating subject. I was recently talking with a world famous jewellery designer for whom jewellery designer is a ritual based on semiotics. As a former student in linguistics, I was not surprised to hear that, since I also consider a piece of jewellery as the communication channel used by a sender, in that case the jewellery designer. The jewellery designer who is the sender, encodes and transmits information via a jewellery piece, the communication channel with is received by a receiver who decodes the message and interprets the unconscious mind of the artist. Semiotics is a general theory of signs. As different from linguistics, however, semiotics also studies non-linguistic sign systems. In semiotics, a sign is something that can be interpreted as having a meaning, which is something other than itself, and which is therefore able to communicate information to the one interpreting or decoding the sign. The semiotic tradition explores the study of signs and symbols as a significant part of communications. Semiotics excavates the foundations of cultural meaning associated with the linguistic, visual, gestural and sensory world we live in. This meaning is encoded in our everyday world, but semiotics makes these codes obvious. This issue is like every issue, full of messages emitted by jewellery designers and brands. This issue is the channel used to communicate to you, our readers and receivers of these messages. The Jewellery Historian will always stand next to all designers and brands as a partner that will help and allow them to reach a unique audience. Our readership, has been accumulated only by word-of-mouth and in short time reached an international audience due to high quality content, exceptional aesthetics and the creativity of the designers, we choose to showcase and we would like to thank you all for your precious support. I hope you will enjoy this issue, as much as we did when preparing it, because jewellery is not only an industry, but also a language.

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

ISSUE GLOBE

Helsinki

| Finland

In every issue, we introduce you to the most talented jewellery designers and people.

Discover the designers, brands & people that we are honored to showcase in this issue.

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

Mika Heittola / Shutterstock.com

At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality.Â We value creativity and innovation and we're not afraid to challenge ourselves and others.

ISSUE GLOBE

CARLO PALMIERO Palmiero jewellery is a synonym of exclusivity witnessing top quality, creativity and authentically Made in Italy. The Palmiero creations are the result of a unique savoir-faire and are definitely amazing. Carlo Palmiero from over 35 years creates limited edition jewellery and watches that convey strong emotions to those who give them and to those who wear them, recognizable at first sight, created without fear of daring. Palmiero' s creations celebrate Nature, Art and Culture, they represent and recount them. In this issue, we meet him for an exclusive interview.

BAVNA Through the vision of founder Sunny Jain, the Bavna jewelry line embodies the essence of luxury and elegance with a modern approach to the timeless elements from the classic styles of fine jewelry. Bavna designs incorporate shapes, textures and images to create unique jewelry which signifies the essence of Designer Sunny Jain’s pure inspiration. Using only the finest materials and natural stones, each piece captures an ageless aura through exquisite craftsmanship interpreted for the modern lifestyle of today’s confident woman.

SETHI COUTURE Inspired by a passage to India and finding beauty in the flaws and imperfections of a century old courtyard home, the “HERITAGE” collection tells the story of the past, a story of heritage. Unique shapes of old mine and rose cut diamonds and the selection of one of a kind stones influence the covetable designs in this collection. The Sethi Couture jewelry line from San Francisco-based designer Pratima Sethi is an intricate mix of an old world charm yet contemporary glamour.

7 Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

ISSUE GLOBE

QEELIN The story of Qeelin began at the hub of cultural exchanges between China and the West, along the “Silk Road”, the caves of Dunhuang stand out among the art treasure of the world by possessing a special geographical and cultural significance. It was during a visit to these legendary caves in 1997 that Dennis Chan had a revelation and decided to turn this into a creative idea; translating all his emotions about China into meaningful, contemporary and universal jewellery – and Qeelin was born. The magic of Qeelin began when talented Chinese designer Dennis Chan and accomplished French entrepreneur Guillaume Brochard connected through a deep friendship and shared vision. “I am enchanted by Oriental aesthetics,” remarked Brochard. “French perfectionism allows us to preserve the enchanting essence of the East in the way it deserves.”

VIVAAN VIVAAN is a Luxury Fine Jewelry Collection, where name “VIVAAN” translates into “Goodness of Life”. It is with inspirited pristine touch that VIVAAN delivers the finest quality and a niche’ in design, using only the finest materials and natural gemstones, diamond rose cuts, slices, bi-color tanzanites, tourmalines to name a few intricately handcrafted in 18 karat. The leading edge designer Yogendra Sethi for VIVAAN is a renowned jewelry artist and acclaimed international painter. Landscapes and ever-changing prismatic nature inspire the jewelry designs. VIVAAN team is a group of young, zealous and arduous individuals, bringing into reality its vision.

ULYSSE NARDIN anchor tourbillon The quintessence of mechanical technology timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel, this new model incorporates the constant Ulysse Anchor Escapement, a constant force escapement with a design that breaks completely with the traditional watchmaking approach. A breakaway current, the kind of waters where Ulysse Nardin loves to sail. This exceptional timepiece is available in two limited editions of 18 pieces each, the Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon definitely for the Jewellery Historian the “Timepiece of the Year 2015”, with Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon awarded 3 times consecutively the last days.

8 Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

NEWS

| Finland

Keijo Savolainen / Shutterstock.com

Helsinki

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

GU C C I Gucci Timepieces & Jewellery, incorporates new honeybee motif into its G-Timeless collection Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry has incorporated one of the HouseÊs latest motif, the honeybee, into the G-Timeless watch collection. The bee ushers in a more eclectic, poetic mood, which was first seen during GucciÊs SpringSummer 2016 runway collections where models sported the new GTimeless honeybee timepieces.

unique and creative approach to materials with traditional ÂSwiss MadeÊ quality. About Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry  Gucci Timepieces has been designing, developing and manufacturing iconic Gucci watches since the early 1970s. Taking advantage of the worldwide recognition of the Florentine house – and its unique duality in brand positioning, pairing modernity and heritage, innovation and craftsmanship, trendsetting and sophistication – Gucci Timepieces is one of the most reliable and consistent fashion watch brands, with a clear design approach and positioning. Made in Switzerland, Gucci watches are recognized for their design, quality and craftsmanship and are distributed worldwide through the exclusive network of directly operated Gucci boutiques and selected watch distributors. Since January 2010, Gucci Timepieces has also been distributing the Gucci Jewelry collections, capitalizing on the expertise gained in the watch sector and leveraging the synergies between the watch and jewelry industries.

G-Timeless has always offered a versatile canvas for GucciÊs many signature collections. The design is a staple within the Gucci Timepieces portfolio, and its enduring appeal lies in the myriad ways in which the watch can be continually reinvented. Furthermore, the bee has a pleasing symmetry, lending itself to striking design possibilities. The collection in fact sees unique embroidered dials with the honeybee rendered in a golden thread, creating a modern motif with unisex appeal. These new variants, all in a medium 38mm size, see GucciÊs striped greenred-green web worked in a colored weave, overlaid with the gold embroidered bee. The unusual textile dial, upholds GucciÊs tradition for innovating materials, and adds a warm touch. These earthy tones of green, red and gold within the dial are offset with a gold PVD case, and an Interlocking ÂGÊ insignia on the crown. The timepiece features a ÂCuoio ToscanoÊ calf leather strap in its three tones of red, green or light brown and all variants include both a „cuff‰ style leather strap and traditional straight strap, easily interchangeable. On the reverse of the watch, the bee motif is engraved on the case back.

For more information about Gucci Timep i e c e s & J e w e l r y, p l e a s e v i s i t www.gucci.com.   Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accessories which develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands.

With these exclusive new G-Timeless variants, Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry once again asserts its position as an innovative watchmaker, marrying a Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of GUCCI ÂŠ GUCCI

OUR NEWS

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

JE W E LLE RY HI S T O RI A N The magazine is making the move from monthly to bimonthly The Jewellery Historian is making the move from monthly to bimonthly—it will publish only six issues, from issue 16 this year. The announcement was made in the end of October, by the founder and editor-in-chief of the Jewellery Historian, Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier. “This decision was made after the important success of the bi-monthly “test issues” during 2015, that had thousands of hundreds of readers. We decided to listen to our readers” said Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier. The Jewellery Historian from 2016 will publish fewer magazines and emphasize to the highest possible quality, but will also to offer to its’ business partners more important and effective exposure. Considered by many decision makers & connoisseurs as the "Best kept secret in the world of luxury", the Jewellery Historian has definitely a uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling, which combined to a minimal and clean design offers to readers from around the globe a unique reading experience. "The Jewellery Historian accomplishes something more than making you want to buy: It makes you realize, or remember, that luxury is not only an industry, but a language. Since our creation, we decided to provide the highest-quality content for free on the internet, while keeping access to our e-magazine free to all users worldwide. One of our goals is to promote, inspire and educate, with the goal of raising the awareness of jewellery & watch design as a form of creative expression. For this reason we look for designers, brands and artists whose Jewellery Historian

work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects.” Each issue of the Jewellery Historian, with new columns and articles, will carry a theme, with issues devoted to topics related to a gemstone, a color or even a poem. “The success of our supplements and special editions certainly contributed to our decision. Our travel supplement answers to the needs of our readers, who want to experience dedicated service, exceptional comfort and understated elegance in every stage of their journey. For this reason our supplements will also be published more often, to allow as well to important advertisers and partners from different luxury industries such as fashion and tourism, that are interested to reach our audience, to be able to”, said Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier. “Our readers are high-end professionals, a connected community of decision makers, connoisseurs with enhanced refinement. Our very important readership, has until now been accumulated only by word-of-mouth and in short time reached an international audience due to the professional knowledge, the high quality content and exceptional aesthetics of our team. At the Jewellery Historian we focus on aesthetics, exclusivity and to the creativity of the designers, we choose to showcase, by letting their creations to speak for themselves, rather that surrounding them with distractions and other imagery.” he added. The issues in 2016, will be : January/ February, March/April, May/June, Summer issue (July/August), September/ October, November/December and the Christmas special edition. | NOVEMBER 2015

OUR NEWS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

U LY S SE N A RDI N Artemis Racing wins in Bermuda.

Artemis Racing claimed a dramatic victory in the final Louis Vuitton America's Cup World Series event of the year. The team headed to Bermuda with plenty to prove, and after racing was abandoned on Saturday, three races were scheduled for Sunday. Team Manager and Tactician, Iain Percy, spoke of his relief after a trying few months. "I'm very proud of the team. We had a lot of pressure to perform”. Winning the Bermuda event means that Artemis Racing rises to fourth place in the overall series rankings, and puts an important marker down in the venue for the 35th America's Cup in 2017. "To be the first team to win an event in Bermuda, the venue of the next America’s Cup is just great for our team. We love it here; we’ve been training here all year, getting ready for the main event in 2017. Our results elsewhere haven’t been great but all that matters is how well we sail in this venue", said Outteridge. It was an important victory for the team who struggled in the first two events in Portsmouth and Gothenburg, and Iain Percy spoke of what it will mean for the wider group. "We’re a big team, and for every one of the sailors to go out today and perform, is a real boost going into the winter. You can’t buy that; you can’t put a value on a

Jewellery Historian

team knowing 100% that they are here to win this competition. Everyone will be working that little bit harder, and we’re going to have that little spring in our step through the whole winter. It’s going to project us towards winning in 2017". Ulysse Nardin as Official Partner of Artemis Racing is extending its congratulations to the whole team. “Artemis Racing’s victory of the ACWS in Bermuda marks an important milestone in our cooperation with the Artemis Racing Team and we are proud to be associated with a team that showed their full talent following a collision with an umpire boat” said Patrik Hoffmann, CEO of Ulysse Nardin. Louis Vuitton America’s Cup World Series Bermuda Results: 1. Artemis Racing: 2 – 1 – 4 – 52 points 2. Emirates Team New Zealand: 5 – 2 – 1– 50 points 3. ORACLE TEAM USA:1–3–5–48points 4. Land RoverBAR:3–6–2–44points 5. Soft Bank Team Japan: 4 – 4 – 3 – 44 points 6. Groupama Team France: 6 – 5 – 6 – 32 points For more information, please visit www.ulysse-nardin.com

| November 2015

Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN © ULYSSE NARDIN

OUR NEWS

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN © ULYSSE NARDIN

OUR NEWS

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN © ULYSSE NARDIN

OUR NEWS

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

E NTI C E Enchanting Wedding Orchid 2015 Collection

Entice, the fine jewellery brand by the renowned KGK group will be unveiling the fifth edition of its much-acclaimed Wedding Orchid collection on 17th of this month. The much acclaimed collection will be available across all 4 boutiques of the brand – Delhi, Jaipur, Mumbai and Bengaluru. Admired most by the brand patrons, the range has been specially curated to bring more grandeur to the Wedding Galas, which are one of the most special and celebrated occasions of our Indian culture. Keeping in mind the entire pageantry associated with Indian weddings, Entice has added some dazzling and exotic baubles to their treasury with this mesmerizing collection. The bejeweled collection is finely fabricated keeping in mind the pink theme, which looks best when fused with white gold. With hints of rose gold to add that extra feminine touch, the collection is certain to intensify the bride’s charm when she teams up a pink outfit with these spectacular jewels. The collection this time is outlined in tune with various wedding related elements like flowers, delicate glass bangles, ribbons etc. to add that beautiful blush to the ceremony. The beautiful diamond collection comprises of impeccable jewellery with varied shapes of diamonds set in White & Rose gold. Along with diamonds, there are striking combinations of sapphire and rubies which are certain to enthrall the wearer as well as onlookers. The wide range entails something or the other for various occasions related to the D-Day, be it a cocktail party, mehndi, sangeet etc. You have options to choose from exquisite chokers, striking single line to multi line necklaces, classic bangles to

Jewellery Historian

bracelet, chandelier earrings to hoops, studs etc. Each piece of the collection reflects perfect cuts and exclusive designs to add that special magical touch to the devout ceremony of marriage. Marriage is the time that is indeed cherished the whole life by the couple, adding these alluring adornments from Entice will definitely add more charm to the auspicious affair and will make it a remarkable event in the newlywed’s life. About Entice Jewellery: Enhancing the rich Indian jewellery heritage with a contemporary twist, Entice Jewellery offers traditional yet contemporary and elegant designs, which cater to the discerning taste of its customers. 'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of the millennium in 2004 in Hong Kong. Following a huge success in Hong Kong, KGK launched its first India boutique of ‘Entice’ in Jaipur in 2009. Latest addition is an exclusive boutique in Bengaluru, launched in 2014. Entice today has 5 standalone boutiques in Hong Kong and India. (Jaipur, Mumbai, Bengaluru and New Delhi). Entice designs meet the burgeoning demand for an internationally aesthetic look, lending a unique artistic blend to their pieces. Backed by the strength and prestige of KGK, Entice aims to create an unparalleled reputation of credible leadership by providing unmatched customer delight and exceeding customer expectations at every opportunity. www.entice.in

| November 2015

Photo courtesy of ENTICE ÂŠ ENTICE

OUR NEWS

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

GU C C I Gucci Timepieces & Jewellery, reveals new advertising campaign

Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry revealed its new international advertising campaign, creative director Alessandro Michele.

the worldwide recognition of the Florentine house – and its unique duality in brand positioning, pairing modernity and heritage, innovation and craftsmanship, trendsetting and sophistication – Gucci Timepieces is one of the most reliable and consistent fashion watch brands, with a clear design approach and positioning. Made in Switzerland, Gucci watches are recognized for their design, quality and craftsmanship and are distributed worldwide through the exclusive network of directly operated Gucci boutiques and selected watch distributors. Since January 2010, Gucci Timepieces has also been distributing the Gucci Jewelry collections, capitalizing on the expertise gained in the watch sector and leveraging the synergies between the watch and jewelry industries.

The images were shot by Glen Luchford and styled by Jane How. Additionally, Christopher Simmonds served as art director of the ad campaign, Paul Hanlon was responsible for hair and Yadim Carranza did the models' make-up. The campaign focuses to Gucci flora collection in 18kt gold and diamonds, the recently released new jewellery collection “Le Marché des Merveilles” in 18kt gold, the “Horsebit collection” in 18kt gold and diamonds and iconic timepieces such as “Diamantissima”, “Horsebit”, “Gtimeless” and “Gucci dive” collections. The models selected for this new campaign are the female model, Madison Stubbington and male model Laurie Harding. Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry   Gucci Timepieces has been designing, developing and manufacturing iconic Gucci watches since the early 1970s. Taking advantage of

Jewellery Historian

For more information about Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry, please visit www.gucci.com.   Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accessories which develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands.

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI

INTRODUCING

BAVN A

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

BAVN A

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

INTRODUCING

Through the vision of founder Sunny Jain, the Bavna jewelry line embodies the essence of luxury and elegance with a modern approach to the timeless elements from the classic styles of fine jewelry. Growing up in the family jewelry business, Sunny’s fascination with gemstones and jewelry began at a very young age and though he pursued and completed his medical degree, his passion drew him back to jewelry. A lifetime resident of Los Angeles, Sunny has always been a keen observer of fashion and style and as a world traveler he adds an international flair that makes him well suited to understand today’s cosmopolitan woman. Sunny places family at the highest echelon of his priorities. Symbolic of this commitment, he derived the name Bavna from his Mother’s first name, the heritage and roots of which are traced to the ancient language of Sanskrit. The profound meaning of Bavna literally translated means “of good intentions”. It is with unyielding good intentions that Bavna delivers the finest quality and design. Sunny finds inspiration from his immense respect and awe of nature and especially his wonderment and passionate appreciation for the deep beauty and purity of unrefined gemstones garnered straight from the soils of the Earth. Bavna designs incorporate shapes, textures and images to create unique jewelry which signifies the essence of Designer Sunny Jain’s pure inspiration. Using only the finest materials and natural stones, each piece captures an ageless aura through exquisite craftsmanship interpreted for the modern lifestyle of today’s confident woman.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of BAVNA © BAVNA

INTRODUCING

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

ICONS

QE ELIN

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

ICONS

QE EL IN

When China and the West, meet at the “Silk Road”

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

The story of Qeelin began at the hub of cultural exchanges between China and the West, along the “Silk Road”, the caves of Dunhuang stand out among the art treasure of the world by possessing a special geographical and cultural significance. It was during a visit to these legendary caves in 1997 that Dennis Chan had a revelation and decided to turn this into a creative idea; translating all his emotions about China into meaningful, contemporary and universal jewellery – and Qeelin was born.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

ICONS

The story of Qeelin is a distinctive one. Since its inception, Qeelin has embraced the exquisite artistry of its French origins merged with the evocative myths of the East, creating lavish high-end jewellery that is abundant in symbolism. In each collection, iconic designs, carefully selected materials and exceptional craftsmanship deliver a beguiling combination of French poise, playfulness, child-like whimsy and enchanting Oriental beauty. The magic of Qeelin began when talented Chinese designer Dennis Chan and accomplished French entrepreneur Guillaume Brochard connected through a deep friendship and shared vision. “I am enchanted by Oriental aesthetics,” remarked Brochard. “French perfectionism allows us to preserve the enchanting essence of the East in the way it deserves.” Chan’s career in design first launched in London following his graduation from the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. Later, he returned to Hong Kong to work for the renowned ‘godfather’ of product design, Mr. Ken K. Shimasaki. In 1989, Chan established studio Longford, gaining international recognition as the designer of choice for various high-end brands. As one of the world’s leading Chinese jewellery designers, Chan has a long list of awards to his name. His accolades include honors from The Chartered Society of Designers, Japan G Mark, Singapore Design Awards and Maison & Object Paris, and his designs have exhibited at the world-famous Louvre in Paris and the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Qeelin first caught the attention of the world in 2004 when actress Maggie Cheung appeared at the Festival de Cannes wearing the mesmerizing Wulu collection. Since then, Qeelin has been coveted among stars and luminaries the world over. In 2007, Qeelin opened the doors to its boutique in Paris at Jardin du Palais Royal. Today, Qeelin’s boutiques can be found in fashion capitals across the globe, including Paris, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai. In 2013, Qeelin joined Kering group, a French conglomerate renowned for international luxury goods. In 2014, Qeelin celebrated its 10th anniversary, marking the momentous occasion with a collection that captures the tenets of the Mogaoku culture. The collection, unveiled at a high jewellery exhibition at Jardin du Palais Royal, signifies the brand’s determination to reach ever greater heights of design and craftsmanship. DENNIS CHAN Mr. Chan received his design education from the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. His scholarship brought him to London, where he started his career as a designer in a local consultancy. He then came back to Hong Kong to join the design consultancy headed by the renowned “Godfather” of product design, Mr. Ken Shimasaki. In 1989, Mr. Chan set up his own company, Long ford, providing professional design consultancy services to international brands and institutions. Mr. Chan has been invited to work on many international projects. These include designing an elegant wristwatch as the Hong Kong Government Official Souvenir for VIPs at the Hong Kong Handover Ceremony in 1997 or the 33-metre high Millennium Clock Tower, celebrating the new century in 2000. He is a winner of numerous local and international design awards including The Chartered Society of Designers, Japan G Mark, Singapore Design Awards and Maison & Object of Paris.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

ICONS

Over the years, Mr. Chan has been continuously challenging himself on multi-discipline designs. He believes that design has no boundaries, and his move to fine jewellery design is the natural extension of his lifetime passion for exquisite timepieces and fine jewelleries. His designs are original, unique and outstandingly modern. With his unique artistic sensibility, Mr. Chan brings a contemporary viewpoint to Chinese arts, creating jewellery designs that are meant to become icons of modern Chinese arts. Mr. Chan's fine jewellery designs for Qeelin first made headlines when the charismatic Ms. Maggie Cheung wore the Wulu collection while receiving Gold Palm Award for the “Best Actress” at 2004 Cannes Film Festival. The vision of Mr. Dennis Chan toward Qeelin: To bring the best of contemporary Chinese design to the world. Classic in design, the Qeelin Wulu collection is inspired by the traditional Chinese Wulu symbol and its undulating lines. Elegant, simple and refined in detail, the design mingles gold with white diamonds to create the prestigious Wulu – a symbol of good fortune and wealth that also serves as a stylish amulet for accessorizing. In 2006, Qeelin Bo Bo came to life with the name ‘Precious’. Living up to its moniker, Bo Bo is carefully crafted from gold, encrusted with black and white diamonds. Exemplary workmanship gives the piece a smooth and silk-like finish. Bo Bo conveys the innocence of a child in its sweet teddy bear appearance. The panda – the figure after whom Bo Bo was modeled – represents peace and friendship, lending Bo Bo its deep sentimentality and striking charisma. The combination of subtle Chinese sensualities and Parisian romance works divinely in Qeelin’s Qin Qin True Love collection. The graceful collection sparkles with glamorous colors, assuming the figure of diminutive goldfish. A tiny magnet caresses the lips of each diamond-encrusted goldfish, drawing it into a ‘kiss’ when it meets its goldfish soulmate. Good fortune and romance take flight. The Yu Yi collection raised craftsmanship to a new level of excellence with its reinterpretation of the Chinese longevity lock. Coated either wholly or in part with the finest diamonds and rubies, every detail on the lock reflects Yu Yi’s understated elegance and sophistication. Crafted in the form of a majestic dancing lion, Qeelin’s Xi Xi is as playful and energetic as it is decorative. Glittering diamonds, dark onyx and red rubies are dynamically arranged, capturing the spirit of the lion dance in a stunning piece of jewellery. Xi Xi features a flexible jaw that allows the lion to open and close its mouth, giving the piece a remarkable liveliness.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

ICONS

Since its inception in 2004, Qeelin has embraced the evocative myths of the East, creating lavish fine jewellery that is abundant in symbolism. In each collection, iconic designs, carefully selected materials and exceptional craftsmanship deliver a beguiling combination of poise, playfulness, childlike whimsy and enchanting Oriental beauty.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

ICONS

The combination of subtle Chinese sensualities and Parisian romance works divinely in Qeelin’s Qin Qin True Love collection. The graceful collection sparkles with glamorous colors, assuming the figure of diminutive goldfish. A tiny magnet caresses the lips of each diamond-encrusted goldfish, drawing it into a ‘kiss’ when it meets its goldfish soulmate. Good fortune and romance take flight.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of QEELIN © QEELIN

ICONS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

CONRADO / SHUTTERSTOCK. COM

T I M E P I EC E S SPE CI A L FAVE S DEC EMBE R 2 015

INTERVIEW

CARLO PALMIERO

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

Jewellery Historian

Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO

| NOVEMBER 2015

INTERVIEW

CA R L O PA LMIE RO Palmiero jewellery is a synonym of exclusivity witnessing top quality, creativity and authentically Made in Italy. The Palmiero creations are the result of a unique savoir-faire and are definitely amazing. Carlo Palmiero from over 35 years creates limited edition jewellery and watches that convey strong emotions to those who give them and to those who wear them, recognizable at first sight, created without fear of daring. Palmiero' s creations celebrate Nature, Art and Culture, they represent and recount them. Interview to Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

INTERVIEW

Carlo Palmiero by bucking the trend and modifying the standards of classical jewellery, which in those years mostly reffered to solitaire, contrarié or “Ballerina” jewellery, important centers surrounded by diamonds, moved the attention from the center to the entire object, dilated the shapes and expanded the attention to the entire jewel surface. His rings, become 360° sculptures, including the shank, which is now protagonist and not only simple stand.

Palmiero Jewellery Design represents one of the most refined brand in the international jewellery panorama, witnessing top quality, creativity and authentically Made in Italy. Palmiero' s creations celebrate Nature, Art and Culture, they represent and recount them. Carlo Palmiero from over 35 years creates Limited Edition jewellery and watches that convey strong emotions to those who give them and to those who wear them, recognizable at first sight, created without fear of daring. This year at Basel World, Palmiero’s “Underwater World” was definitely one of the most seen and beloved collections. There are many beautiful sights created by the force of Nature: this year PALMIERO has captured the vivid colours and sinuous charm of the underwater world, the magic of water and life that moves inside it. Jewels that become unique masterpieces, works of art, along with more and more precious jewellery watches and refined accessories. New shapes, dimensions and colours are ready to fascinate "jewellery connoisseurs". The origin of a true love story Carlo Palmiero grew up in the 60’s in Valenza, a small town of Piedmont, a region in the nothern part of Italy. The city has always been famous for its goldsmith tradition. He was inevitably influenced by this art and had the opportunity to enter artisanal ateliers and work together with the greatest experts of the field. This is definitely the origin of a true love story, the one with the art of jewellery, which has lasted unchanged until today. The first jewels were realized in the small atelier opened in the 70’s, where objects characterized by small dimensions but already stong personality were created. Carlo Palmiero by bucking the trend and modifying the standards of classical jewellery, which in those years mostly reffered to solitaire, contrarié or “Ballerina” jewellery, important centers surrounded by diamonds, moved the attention from the center to the entire object, dilated the shapes and expanded the attention to the entire jewel surface. His rings, become 360° sculptures, including the shank, which is now protagonist and not only simple stand. In 1979, when Carlo Palmiero founded the company that bears his name. Carlo Palmiero’s creations are an alchemy of thoughts, suggestions, reflections and memories. The magic of nature meets emotions, art, cultures and places in an endless creative conversation. The “Maître”, Carlo Palmiero, shapes and materializes this abstract inspiration. A sketch, a draft, an idea gradually become real, waiting for being given life by the goldsmith’s ability. Gold and precious stones become the canvas and colors he uses to create his own works of art.

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO

INTERVIEW

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

INTERVIEW

Palmiero jewellery is a synonym of exclusivity and unique jewellery. The Palmiero creations are the result of a unique savoir-faire and definitely amazing.

Color is definitely the protagonist of Palmiero’s jewellery. The rarest colored precious diamonds are combined with the best natural sapphires, creating unusual and fascinating combinations and shades. Intense topazes, brilliant rubellites and gorgeous rubies, become pure color that Palmiero uses to give life to his courageous ideas. In collaboration with this team of gemologists, Carlo Palmiero wisely combines chromatic tonalities in order to create unique and fascinating pavé shades, which have almost became synonymous of Palmiero Jewellery Design’s creations and let our imagination to run free. Palmiero jewellery is a synonym of exclusivity and unique jewellery. The Palmiero creations are the result of a unique savoir-faire and definitely amazing. Nowadays, Carlo Palmiero, together with his team, conceives his fantastic and fascinating creations in the modern laboratory-atelier inaugurated in Valenza in 2007. The high technology of the laboratory makes it one of the forefront companies in the jewel manufacture. At the same time, it remains a large artisanal laboratory, where manual skill is exalted and expressed through the ability of highly qualified goldsmiths and stonesetters. Thanks to them the brand appears in the most prestigious and select boutiques of the world. Palmiero’s creations are haute couture jewels that communicate through the language of sculpture and the vocabulary commonly used by artists, who shape the material to give it a soul. The diamond pavé and the natural stones become the protagonists, a real raison d’être. They are conceived in intense and exuberant tonalities and “Arlecchino” or shaded effects, creating splendid optical illusions. Neither the gold escapes the virtuosities of the creator, who drapes it, curves it, undulates it, “domesticates” it to his inspiration by crossing the evanescent borders between craft and art.

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO

INTERVIEW

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

INTERVIEW

When I was only 15 I made a tiny engagement ring for a girl I was in love with. It was not a very important piece but it had a unique design and became important for whom has become my wife. She still keeps it in one of her drawers.

Carlo Palmiero, let’s talk about yourself, including what you do and how you got there. When I started shaping wax rings and pulling out the hacksaw, I was merely a child. I attended the School of Goldsmith Art and a few years later, after graduation, I became apprentice. In the 70s, I opened a small laboratory. It was my own. I was still very young but soon demonstrated to be creative, and instead of classic central stone solitaires, I decided to focus on more plastic shapes and outstanding designs by making use of colored gemstones pavé. In 2007, I opened a bigger atelier in which I currently follow all the steps for jewellery design and manufacture. My passion for jewellery as a form of Art gives me constant inspiration and enlightens my days and my creativity. What was the first piece of jewelry you ever made? How have your designs evolved? When I was only 15 I made a tiny engagement ring for a girl I was in love with. It was not a very important piece but it had a unique design and became important for whom has become my wife. She still keeps it in one of her drawers. What was the motivation / inspiration for your very first collection? When I created my first collection, the jewellery world was already saturated with classical jewellery pieces. I wanted to give life to something special, something unique, impossible to find elsewhere. Where do you get your inspiration? Nature gives me inspiration everytime. Its shapes, colours, perfumes… Besides, Art is another source of inspiration for my creations as it directly talks to people’s heart. Is your jewellery inspired from architecture? I did create some collections inspired to both modern and traditional architecture, as Windows or Landscapes. Since we are talking about architecture, which architect you admire? I particularly admire the contemporary Renzo Piano and Zaha Hadid, for the singularity in the design and their will to harmonize people and landscape. Which is the artistic or historical period you consider a great source of inspiration. The XX century artistic avant-garde have been my greatest sources of inspiration.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO

INTERVIEW

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

INTERVIEW

Artists as Kandinsky, Gauguin, Matisse, Picasso, Van Gogh and Mondrian with their innovative look into reality have inspired me in the design of my jewellery pieces.

Are there any persons in art, fashion, architecture and design that inspire you with their work? Artists as Kandinsky, Gauguin, Matisse, Picasso, Van Gogh and Mondrian with their innovative look into reality have inspired me in the design of my jewellery pieces. What about literature. Which is your favorite book ? The Odyssey by Homer. It tells about incredible achievements and mysterious places. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s talk about jewellery. Which are your favorite materials? Which materials and techniques your favor? Gold and gemstones to create jewellery. But also materials findable in nature as wood and stone. Which material you believe that you will never stop using in your collections? I believe gold and precious stones. You like to challenge yourself? Which piece would you say was the most difficult to create? I do challenge myself all the time, in each creation I make. What according to you contributed to your success? Passion for beauty, attention to detail and enthusiasm for life. Tell us about your design style. What makes your collections unique in the industry? The use of colored precious stones, the perfectly made pave settings and the sculptural designs. How does work take place in your atelier when you design a new collection? I follow my experienced team of designers, goldsmiths, gemologists and stone setters in each step of the creation of a jewel. What do you like most about being a jewelry designer? I have the chance to create beauty and to bring happiness to a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heart. The most valuable lesson you have learned until today? To be an attentive and humble observer of Nature.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO

INTERVIEW

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

INTERVIEW

The Underwater World wants to be a representation of sea life and phenomena. Colorful and playful, mysterious and charming. It is a symbolic collection and a way to escape nowadays negative world events.

If you could change one thing about your career to date, what would it be? None. How do you define luxury? Exclusivity. What is your idea of elegance? Elegance is a state of being. What is your favorite piece you’ve ever created – and what made it so special? All of my creations are special to me. Do you think that there is a relation between fashion and jewellery design? Of course there is, but not all the time and not in every case. There is fashion jewellery which is more similar to fashion and fine jewellery, more similar to haute couture but slightly different. If you could choose one fashion designer to collaborate with, who would it be? Elie Saab. Do you believe that a man should wear jewellery ? A woman that already owns a jewellery collection and is looking to something more special, exclusive, something she could stand for with. But also men that are jewellery and art connoisseurs. Which piece of jewellery every person should wear ? Everyone has a different personality and different taste. What’s it like to see someone on the street wearing one of your creations? Every time it makes my heart beats so fast. Could you please tell us about your latest collection? The Underwater World wants to be a representation of sea life and phenomena. Colorful and playful, mysterious and charming. It is a symbolic collection and a way to escape nowadays negative world events.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO

INTERVIEW

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

INTERVIEW

My advice to aspiring young designers would be “Never give up and always challenge yourselves”.

Which is your favorite destination for summer holidays and which is your favorite for winter ? Sea, mountain, countryside, beautiful cities and historical sites. Your favorite capital ? Rome. Your favorite addresses? Anywhere in the world. Could you tell us about your upcoming projects? I prefer to not reveal anything. Your favorite quote? “Everything you can imagine, Nature has already created” by Albert Einstein. Which is your advice to young and aspiring jewellery designers? Never give up and always challenge yourselves.

At the Jewellery Historian, we would like to thanks Mr. Carlo Palmiero for this exclusive interview. We would like to thanks the entire Palmiero team for their kind support and for helping us to organize this interview and meeting.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO

INTERVIEW

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

A NEW MUST

SETHI COU TUR E

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

A NEW MUST

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

SE THI COUTUR E The Heritage Collection

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

A NEW MUST

The Sethi Couture jewelry line from San Francisco-based designer Pratima Sethi is an intricate mix of an old world charm yet contemporary glamour. With an aesthetic informed largely by her parents, purveyors of gemstones, and their collection of rare natural colored and exquisitely cut old world diamonds , Pratima Sethi’s collection imbues an artisanal eclecticism telling of her childhood. Days spent sifting through her parents’ rare collection of gems and playing with her mother’s jewelry box filled with vintage finds, set into motion a love for fine objects that inspires Pratima’s work today. Following a myriad of global travels during her MBA and further study abroad at HEC in France and a career at LVMH, Pratima’s love of fine jewels was put to work. The natural ease of handpicking stones to sketching elaborate jewelry designs illustrated the influence her past had on this new journey. In 2010, sister Prerna Sethi joined her in building their namesake brand Sethi Couture. Cultivating her passion for design as a student of Architecture at U.C. Berkeley, Prerna developed a love for creating beautiful renderings and ornate objects. She continued to pursue her passion for design in a career in the fashion world but the call to create a lifestyle jewelry line with her best friend and sister using the very diamonds that they grew up admiring was inevitable. The sisters embarked on an incredible adventure to create Sethi Couture going back to their heritage to do what they love. With their contrasting, yet complementing personalities, Pratima and Prerna share a mutual appreciation for travel, history, and architecture where they were endlessly inspired by in their youth and which influence their designs now. Today, Sethi Couture can be found in the most selective stores with an equally noteworthy celebrity following. The Heritage Collection Inspired by a passage to India and finding beauty in the flaws and imperfections of a century old courtyard home, this collection tells the story of the past, a story of heritage. Unique shapes of old mine and rose cut diamonds and the selection of one of a kind stones influence the covetable designs in this collection.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

Photo courtesy of SETHI COUTURE © SETHI COUTURE

A NEW MUST

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

100

ESTHĂ&#x2C6;TE

Une personne qui considĂ¨re l'art comme une valeur essentielle

Photo courtesy of FABERGÉ © FABERGÉ

E STH È T E

An amazing ring by FABERGÉ

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

102

BREATHTAKING GEMS

By Eva Kountouraki

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

CAT’S EYE GEMS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

104

[Photo in Public domain]

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

By Eva Kountouraki

CAT’S EYE GEMS It is purely nature’s hard work to create gemstones that exhibit the cat’s eye phenomenon. All the years of slow growth inside the earth’s ancient rocks, join their forces with special conditions and a particular orientation of certain types of inclusions, and spend their time growing together only to create beautiful crystals that when cut by skilled professionals will show their magic through a chatoyant band. Chatoyancy, or else the cat’s eye phenomenon, can be created by two different mechanisms. When specifically aligned inclusions block the crystal’s growth along certain directions, the result is the creation of internal hollow tubes around which the crystal continues to grow normally. The other way, that usually has more elegant results, is the align-

Jewellery Historian

ment of long and thin needle-like inclusions. In both cases, either the tubes or the needles, reflect the light and reveal the cat’s eye on the dome of the gemstone’s cabochon form. Cat’s eye chrysoberyl is considered to be the most valuable chatoyant gem. This is a rare gem with a bodycolor that ranges from a yellow green to a brownish tint, against which a fine and silvery-white eye is woken up every time a light source is shone on it. The needle-like inclusions that create this cat’s eye are extremely fine, invisible to the naked eye, so that in the highest qualities, the body of the gem can still remain transparent, although it is full of these clarity characteristics. The fineness of the inclusions also results in a very

| NOVEMBER 2015

105

Bildagentur Zoonar GmbH / SHUTTERSTOCK. COM

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

106

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Another very popular gemstone that exhibits this phenomenon is tiger’s eye quartz. In this case, the chatoyancy is created by the light’s reflection off of the gem’s fibrous structure.

sharp and narrow cat’s eye band that rolls smoothly on the cabochon. This is such an amazing phenomenal gem that it is the only one which has gained the right in the market to be called simply “Cat’s eye”. Another very popular gemstone that exhibits this phenomenon is tiger’s eye quartz. In this case, the chatoyancy is created by the light’s reflection off of the gem’s fibrous structure. So it is actually how the quartz was grown that is responsible for its unique appearance. This also means that tiger’s eye quartz is a chatoyant gem that would exhibit its beautiful phenomenon all over its surface regardless whether it has domed or flat surfaces. Its warm golden brown colour reminds of the feline predator after which it is named, while when it is bluegray in colour it is referred to as hawk’s eye. Tourmalines can create very striking chatoyant material. They come in various colours and sometimes they can combine more than one colour in one gem and also exhibit chatoyancy, resulting in unique jewels. Tourmaline’s chatoyancy is usually more “rough” than the one of other gems as the inclusions that create it are somewhat thicker. Still, combined with the intense colours of this beautiful gem the outcome is quite powerful. Another gemstone that may exhibit chatoyancy is diopside, whose colours usually range from a strong green to a mysterious black body. It is a rare gem that is appreciated by gem collectors and those that seek for the unusual. Another interesting but not yet very famous gem that can reveal its beauty through a silver cat’s eye is sillimanite. It usually has a rich and warm brown colour against which we can observe a sharp chatoyant band winking at us! Several, more or less famous gemstones can potentially exhibit this phenomenon, should they contain the characteristic inclusions in the special orientation and quantity required. Apatite, beryls of various colours, kyanite, garnets, etc. are only a few on this list.

Due to a last-minute copyright problem, the photos that were scheduled to illustrate this article, had to be removed. We invite you to use web engines to see photos of cat’s eye gems. We apologize for any inconvenience that this may cause.

The name of this phenomenon originates from the French word “chatoyer” that means sparkle like the eyes of a cat. The sharp band we observe on the various chatoyant gems remind of the narrow pupils of the cat’s eyes as they shine under bright light. Because of their uncommon appearance and the association of these gems to the mysterious and mighty felines, people have attributed magic powers to them. It is true that throughout history the symbol of the eye has always been very powerful; an eye to protect you, to guide you, to control you.. But looking at the beauty of nature’s eyes drawn elegantly on a gemstone is a unique and lasting sensation that will come to life every time a light source will kiss your chatoyant gem.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

107

Jens Mayer / SHUTTERSTOCK. COM

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

108

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Eva Kountouraki

Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field. She started her first collection of polished and rough gemstones at a very early age and realized that this would be her profession in the future. After studying gemology books in various languages, she attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to accredit those skills choosing the best gemological institute in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), for her studies. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all

Jewellery Historian

the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design. Evaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologists of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world. Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever accomplished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and precious stones. Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jewelry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and companies, advising and helping her clients to make successful purchases and investments in gemstones. She also organizes and teaches seminars for the training of gemstone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gempassionates. At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems.

| NOVEMBER 2015

109

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

110

OUR FAVES

In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. In this issue we travel to Paris, the city of lights and the perfect destination for shopping. - Address book at page 163 -

1Viktoria/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

112

1Viktoria/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

113

BOUCHERON

GORALSKA

THEO FENNELL

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

114

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

GARRARD

POMELLATO

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

115

BORGIONI

KULMALA

JACK VARTANIAN

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

116

1Viktoria/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

117

ZOLOTAS

GUMUCHIAN

PASQUALE BRUNI

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

118

BAVNA

QEELIN

CARLA AMORIM

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

119

MORPHﾃ右

GUMUCHIAN

MORATORIUM

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

120

1Viktoria/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

121

NICOLE LANDAW

NIKOS KOULIS

BOUCHERON

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

122

TIFFANY & CO.

KARA ROSS

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

123

YANNIS SERGAKIS

AS29

BAVNA

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

124

1Viktoria/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

125

ELENA VOTSI

ARTHUS-BERTRAND

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

OUR FAVES

126 Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

MOUSSON ATELIER

BOUCHERON

TIFFANY & CO.

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

127

ROBERTO COIN

YANNIS SERGAKIS

SYLVIE CORBELIN

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

128

1Viktoria/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

129

ARTHUS-BERTRAND

ROBERTO COIN

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

130

BOUCHERON

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

131

THEO FENNELL

CASPITA

ELENA VOTSI

OUR FAVES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

132

SPOTLIGHT

V IVAAN

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

134

SPOTLIGHT

Photo courtesy of VIVAAN ÂŠ VIVAAN

VIVAA N Goodness of Life Inspired from the rich saturation of Autumn colors transcending into the soft hues of Winters, the collection for Fall/Winter 2015 of VIVAAN, features delicate floral and geometrical designs. A collection where the Royal look of Rosecut Diamonds give perfect accents to match the autumn hues while colored stones add the mystic colorful wonder.

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

135

SPOTLIGHT

VIVAAN is a Luxury Fine Jewelry Collection, where name “VIVAAN” translates into “Goodness of Life”. It is with inspirited pristine touch that VIVAAN delivers the finest quality and a niche’ in design, using only the finest materials and natural gemstones, diamond rose cuts, slices, bi-color tanzanites, tourmalines to name a few intricately handcrafted in 18 karat. The leading edge designer Yogendra Sethi for VIVAAN is a renowned jewelry artist and acclaimed international painter. Landscapes and ever-changing prismatic nature inspire the jewelry designs. VIVAAN team is a group of young, zealous and arduous individuals, bringing into reality its vision. The Story Surbhi admires her dad’s artistic prowess so much that she debuted VIVAAN in 2012 as a tribute to him. Surbhi grew up traveling with dad Yogendra Sethi— whom JCK featured in the 2009 issue of LUXURY magazine—while he made and sold paintings and finest gemstones. When she was ready to hang

Jewellery Historian

her own shingle, she decided to nod to her dad’s gemstone-intense high designs and colorful one-of-a-kind paintings in process. Now her Vivaan line of slice-intense diamond and gemstones take subtle inspiration from her father’s work, with Surbhi’s own unique twist. For over a decade, Surbhi has been a spiritual energy healer who energy cleanses all the stones set into designs. Earth Consciousness VIVAAN brand is about uplifting energy and consciousness. The unearthed raw gemstones from VIVAAN collection have a level of consciousness and their natural powers can be brought forth by holistically charging them. VIVAAN jewelry collections with the enhanced 'Earthly Consciousness' are great asset to keep in the family for generations to come. Surbhi shares “Diamonds and essentially all natural gemstones have unique energies that can be attuned for raising one’s individual Awareness”.

| NOVEMBER 2015

136

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

137

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

138

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

139

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

140

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

141

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

142

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

143

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

144

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

145

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

146

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

147

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

148

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

149

SPOTLIGHT

Jewellery Historian

| NOVEMBER 2015

150

TIMEPIECES

ULYSSE NARDIN

Jewellery Historian

| OCTOBER 2015

152

TIMEPIECES

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

TIMEPIECES

U L YSSE AN C H OR TO UR BI L L ON The Quintessence of mechanical technology timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel

Jewellery Historian

| november 2015

TIMEPIECES

The quintessence of mechanical technology timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel, this new model incorporates the constant Ulysse Anchor Escapement, a constant force escapement with a design that breaks completely with the traditional watchmaking approach. A breakaway current, the kind of waters where Ulysse Nardin loves to sail.

Driven by the unending quest for innovation that makes it one of the most dynamic Manufactures, in 2015 Ulysse Nardin dropped a new marker buoy on the capricious ocean of fine watchmaking. An undisputed world first, the new Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon is the quintessence of avant-garde mechanical technology, timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel. The outcome of eight years of research and development, the constant Ulysse Anchor escapement, made entirely of silicium, displays hitherto unknown architecture based on the principle of flexible mechanisms exploiting the elasticity of flat springs. This device, the culmination of the development work on the prototype version presented in 2014, represents the height of timekeeping sophistication today: first, no longer constrained by a pivoting staff, the pallet fork moves entirely without friction; second, the geometrical improvements made to the pallet fork, the escape wheel and the flat springs have resulted in a constant-force escapement; and to crown all of this, this new coinage in watchmaking is brought aboard in a tourbillon cage, the peak of traditional expertise. Ulysse Nardin has always been driven by a pioneering spirit: in 2001, the Manufacture was the first to develop an escapement made of silicium; it was the first to test a diamond balance spring in 2002; the first to use silicium for its Dual Ulysse escapement – a phenomenon in its own right – in 2005; the first to fit a watch with a diamond escapement, also in 2005; and lastly, the first to use silicium as a kernel for growing diamonds, DIAMonSIL. In collaboration with Sigatec, a co-owned company specializing in the production of silicium micro- components, the Le Locle-based company spent no less than eight years perfecting this mechanism, which today appears to be a paradigm shift in the approach to mechanical watchmaking. Challenging the principle of the traditional Swiss anchor escapement, the new constant Ulysse Anchor escapement features a circular frame with a pallet fork fixed in the center, supported in space on two blade springs less than a tenth of the thickness of a hair in diameter. Mounted perpendicular to each other, these are subjected to a bending force that curves them and maintains them in a bi-stable state. This complex structure, made entirely of silicium thanks to the DRIE deep etching technique, exploits the physical capacity of blade springs to become distorted along the leftright axis while remaining perfectly rigid along the up-down axis, thus reproducing the kinetic functions of a pivot. The impulse that issues from each alternation of the balance wheel thus transmits its energy to the blades, which snap from one stable state to the other, very much like a snap hair-clip. The pallet arms thus pivot backwards and forwards about a pallet staff that is purely virtual, without generating any frictional forces. But the best is yet to come: the redesigned pallet fork now possesses an integral resetting face. As the tooth of the escape wheel slides along this surface as far as the banking face, it will bring the pallet fork back every time to within just 3° of the center line – that is, the imaginary straight line between the center of the balance wheel and the center of the escape wheel which defines the system's equilibrium limit. Thus the effort that the balance wheel has to exert to push the pallet fork as far as its tipping point is less than the effort that is restored to it immediately afterwards by the bending of the blade springs. In this way, this positive energy balance is able to maintain the oscillations of the balance wheel at a constant rate. In fact, this interplay of forces is not influenced by the motor torque injected into the escape wheel, which only starts to move once the pallet fork has switched over. In a final touch of artistry, this astonishing construction is housed in a 60-seconds tourbillon, whose cage comprises 35 components but weighs no more than 0.4 grams. With its

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

155

TIMEPIECES

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

156

TIMEPIECES

constant amplitude, irrespective of how much the two seriesmounted spring barrels are wound, this exceptional oscillating mechanism is a major step forward in the field of chronometric accuracy. Visible through a large opening in the dial at 6 o'clock, it is encircled by the indication of its power reserve of at least 7 days on a 140° arc. This caliber UN-178 is housed in a rose gold or white gold case in the Classico collection. A setting with traditional lines enhanced with a white Grand Feu enamel dial created by the unrivaled expertise of Donzé Cadrans, a dial-making specialist company owned by Ulysse Nardin.

power transmission to the regulating system and improves the accuracy of the timepiece. As Ulysse Nardin enters its 170th year, it does so as an imaginative futurist, uniting its exploratory nature with its expertise to clear the path for more inventiveness; innovative elements once reserved for milestone pieces are making their way into core collections. The beholder of six exquisite families of watches and the greatest number of patents in mechanical watchmaking, Ulysse Nardin will flow forward, stretching the limits of design, engineering and technology, and, of course, surprising watch enthusiasts around the globe.

Available in two limited editions of 18 pieces each, the Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon is in the retailers' display windows since May.

Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon awarded 3 times consecutively. During the week of October 19th, the Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon timepiece of Ulysse Nardin was awarded by the International Salon of Haute Horology (SIAR) in Mexico with the Prize of the Year and won simultaneously the Prix Orologio dell’Anno 2015 assigned by the Italian magazine L’Orologio. At the 15th ceremony of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) was held at the Grand Theatre gathering hundreds guests. The international jury of recognized experts, collectors and watchmaking journalists crowned Ulysse Nardin with the Tourbillon Watch Prize for again its Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon timepiece. The Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon is the quintessence of avantgarde mechanical technology. The outcome of eight years of research and development, the constant Ulysse Anchor escapement, made entirely of silicium, displays hitherto unknown architecture based on the principle of flexible mechanisms exploiting the elasticity of flat springs. This astonishing construction is housed in a 60seconds tourbillon. Visible through a large opening in the dial at 6 o'clock, it is encircled by the indication of its power reserve of at least 7 days on a 140° arc. The caliber UN-178 is housed in a rose gold or white gold case. Available in a limited edition. In tribute to innovation, each jury has honored the technological advancement of the Ulysse Nardin timepiece with its constant force escapement in silicium that revolutionizes the

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

157

TIMEPIECES

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

158

TIMEPIECES

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

159

TIMEPIECES

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

160

TIMEPIECES

Picture 1 : Patrik Hoffmann, CEO of Ulysse Nardin holding the Tourbillon Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Picture 2 : The Watch of the Year Prize given by the hands of Carlo Pedrosa, publishing director of Ediciones Tourbillon to José Carlos Garcia (Grupo Mondi) of Ulysse Nardin. Picture 3 : The Prix Orologio dell’Anno 2015 offered to Loris Galeotti, Ulysse Nardin market manager from the editor and readers of L’Orologio magazine.

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

161

TIMEPIECES

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

162

ADDRESS BOOK

ARTHUS-BERTRAND www.arthus-bertrand.fr

JACK VARTANIAN www.jackvartanian.com

SYLVIE CORBELIN www.sylvie-corbelin.com

AS29 www.as29.com

KARA ROSS www.kararossny.com

THEO FENNELL www.theofennell.com

BAVNA www.bavna.com

KULTASEPPÄ KULMALA www.kultaseppakulmala.fi

TIFFANY & CO. www.tiffany.com

BORGIONI www.borgionis.com

MORATORIUM www.moratoriumstudio.com

ULYSSE NARDIN www.ulysse-nardin.com

BOUCHERON www.boucheron.com

MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE www.morphee-joaillerie.com

VIVAAN www.vivaan.us

CARLA AMORIM www.carlaamorim.com.br

MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.ru

YANNIS SERGAKIS www.yannissergakis.com

CASPITA www.caspita.ch

NICOLE LANDAW www.nicolelandaw.com

ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH www.diamondintherough.com

NIKOS KOULIS www.nikoskoulis.gr

ELENA VOTSI www.elenavotsi.com

PALMIERO www.palmierogioielli.com

ENTICE www.entice.in

PASQUALE BRUNI www.pasqualebruni.com

GARRARD www.garrard.com

POMELLATO www.pomellato.com

GORALSKA JOAILLERIE www.goralska.com

QEELIN www.qeelin.com

GUCCI Jewelry & Timespieces www.guccitimeless.com

ROBERTO COIN www.robertocoin.com

GUMUCHIAN www.gumuchian.com

SETHI COUTURE www.sethicouture.com

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

164

Helsinki

| Finland

facebook.com/jewelryhistorian Photo : Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

instagram.com/jewellery_historian twitter.com/jhmag_official pinterest.com/jhmagazine

Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Creative director-at-large Panayiotis Simopoulos Founder Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier --Contributors Eva Kountouraki, Martin Huynh, Christina Rodopoulou --Creative Jewellery Historian Production Jewellery Historian Publishing Jewellery Historian & 16ml --Photo agencies Shutterstock, Pixabay, Freepik, The stocks Cover Carlo Palmiero (Photo courtesy of Palmiero Jewellery) ---

All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and digital brands, neither the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this e-magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” and/or logo, may not be reproduced without prior consent. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited.The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission.All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Web pages of the company are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages & emagazine is for informational purposes only.

Advertising info@jewelleryhistorian.com Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies.

Website www.jewelleryhistorian.com E-mail info@jewelleryhistorian.com --Published & Distributed in collaboration with 16ml --FREE DIGITAL COPY / NOT FOR SALE

The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or magazine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

165

Helsinki

| Finland

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Photo : Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

We would like to thank all who have contributed to the compilation of this issue. It would not have been accomplished without their significant contribution. The successful publication that owes a great deal to the professionals in the creative industry who have given us precious insights and feedbacks. And to the many others whose names are not credited but have made specific input in this issue, we thank you for your continuous support.

Jewellery Historian

| November 2015

166

#Committed to Heritage and Creativity

Stand up for their promotion Stand up for their protection

United Nations Educational, ScientiďŹ c and Cultural Organization A campaign led with the support of the French customs

167