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INSIDE THIS ISSUE
SEPTEMBER 2015 INTRODUCING MASSIMO IZZO High-end jewelry inspired by the Mediterranean culture
COVER STORY ETHO MARIA Exquisite pieces of art, unique as the people who wear them
INTERVIEW INÉDIT An introduction to the creative world of INÉDIT
A NEW MUST ALEX SOLDIER Timeless appeal, intricate detail, daring mastery
SPOTLIGHT POMELLATO A story of creativity, consistency and visionary research
SPECIAL FAVES AURORA BOREALIS We illuminate the new season with Northern lights
TIMEPIECES ULYSSE NARDIN Artemis Racing Partnership with commemorative marine diver
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REGULARS EDITOR’S LETTER Our editor-in-chief introduces you the new issue
ISSUE GLOBE All the jewellery designers of this issue at a glance
NEWS News from around the world
ESTHÈTE The editor’s jewellery choice of the month
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS BLUE SAPPHIRE Eva introduces us a new gemstone in every issue
OUR FAVES Jewellery for an important moment of life
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EDITOR’S LETTER Life can be a hard pill to swallow. On a daily basis, we are consumed with regrets, failures and insecurities that plague our minds and control our actions. Many times we are overwhelmed by situations and things we wish we could change. We experience heartbreak, loss and fear, along with betrayal, jealousy and bad memories. Things we’ve lost in the past, whether it be a lover or a piece of jewelry, can be hard to let go. However, the ghosts of things and people have no room in our present and will only haunt us as long as we let them. We choose not to let the memory of things departed to become part of our life any longer. Change can come in many forms in our lives. It might come forcefully like a tidal wave, or creep along incrementally like a glacier. It might come in the form of devastating tragedy, difficult choices, broken relationships, or even new opportunities. Many times, the only way to improve our lives is to force ourselves to undergo difficult change. That might mean breaking up and leaving a stale – but comfortable – relationship, leaving a mediocre – but stable – job, moving away from a nice – but uninspiring – location, moving away from a person or anything else that’s holding us back from accomplishing our dreams. Of course, dealing with uninvited change in our lives is often difficult and painful. In many cases, instigating major, but necessary, change in our life can be just as painful. Even though change is often difficult, many times it’s also for the best. Accomplishing anything great in life requires significant change that pushes us beyond our comfort zones. Whatever change you’re dealing with, know that how you cope with that change will have an impact on your future. Try to keep all positive things life gave you and continue your path of life. It is essential to accept change and move forward. It is important to keep the best of the past and as C.P Cavafy wrote : “And if you can’t shape your life the way you want, at least try as much as you can, not to degrade it”. This September issue, is dedicated to change, to any change we have to deal at some moment in our life. This issue is dedicated to everything new, new collections, new designs, new season. I hope you will enjoy reading this issue, as much as we enjoyed creating it.
Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief
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ISSUE GLOBE
ISSUE GLOBE In every issue, we introduce you to the most talented jewellery designers and people. At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. We value creativity and innovation and we're not afraid to challenge ourselves and others.
VOLODYMYR LESHCHENKO / SHUTTERSTOCK. COM
Discover the designers, brands & people that we are honored to showcase in this issue.
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MASSIMO IZZO The marvelous Sicilian heritage with its charm and history give roots to Massimo’s creations. His collections evoke a magic world of astonishing colors and enthralling shapes, crafted by the finest Italian jewelry school. Diamonds, raw aquamarines, morganites, lavander jade, moore and orange corals mixed with white, rose and yellow gold, sandtreated, hammered or polished by expert hands. For over 27 years Massimo’s creations have been chosen by celebrated customers around the world, royalty, film directors and art galleries.
FRANK MARGUERON For the interview of this issue, we meet Inédit Joaillier and its founder Frank Margueron in Rouen, in France. French jewellery-making is famous throughout the world, first and foremost because of the creativity of the country's jewellers, constantly in search of perfection. They use their time-honoured expertise to transform a designer's dream into a perfect piece of jewellery. At Inédit, pieces are unique, since they are crafted by exceptional artists.The jewellers, setter and polisher have inherited their knowledge and skills from the French jewelry tradition. Inédit perpetuates a unique know-how and keeps standards of French jewellery at the highest possible levels by creating unique amazing pieces of jewellery.
ALEX SOLDIER Known for his elaborate metalwork, distinctive style and unparalleled craftsmanship, Alex Soldier counts the most stylish tastemakers, celebrities and organizations as clients and the jewelry trade has long praised him as a leader in the field. His incredible talent and innovative spirit has captured the hearts of leading editors, style experts and buyers that often proclaim him as the most innovative designer of our time. Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry and precision and represents a constantly evolving combination of shape, color and texture—making each piece as individual as its wearer.
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ETHO MARIA Etho Maria is the signature brand collection of a well established international fine jewellery manufacturing company. Marrying impeccable craftsmanship with superior design, the Etho Maria fine jewellery line translates into exquisite, wearable pieces of art that make a bold and lasting statement. The flexibility of the pieces, the application of rose and antique cut in sapphires and the motion of the forms have become the brands’ trademarks. ‘’Etho Maria’’ is famous for creating prestigious modern pieces that are handcrafted in the company’s ateliers around the globe. That international exposure is evident in the brands’ aesthetic, the design being influenced by a diverse range of cultures.
POMELLATO In today’s ever changing world, few pieces of jewellery are recognized as icons. Nudo by Pomellato is one of the few. This ring, created in 2001, has remained an unmistakable classic over the years, as if it has existed forever. Yet the apparent simplicity of the Nudo collection is the result of a true revolution in taste and design. A trademark of the Milanese brand. Synonym of creativity and personality on the international jewellery scene, Pomellato was founded in 1967 thanks to the intuition of its founder, Pino Rabolini. Heir to a family of goldsmiths, Rabolini was the first to introduce the philosophy of prêt-à-porter into the world of jewellery, attributing a strong distinctive identity to the brand, thanks to which Pomellato soon became renowned on the Italian market and in the rest of the world, becoming the fifth jewellery company in Europe and one of the biggest players in the entire sector at international level.
PANAYIOTIS SIMOPOULOS Panayiotis joined our team during summer as creative director-at-large. In his new role, he will contribute to special projects and will serve as roving ambassador with links to all creative areas of the magazine, in close collaboration with our founder & editor-in-chief. Successful and talented, he is the rarest kind of creative artist, one who creates extraordinary images. With a unique creative vision, whilst maintaining a clear vision of delivering a message that speaks directly to the reader, he ultimately creates an exciting and balanced visual experience. Together with many of the most talented young photographers, he’ll definitely deliver, the most memorable, exciting and unique images and fashion editorials that the magazine has ever published. Jewellery Historian
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NEWS
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T I F F A NY & C O . Design Director Francesca Amfitheatrof Imbues Jewelry with New and Unmistakable Style
Design director Francesca Amfitheatrof anticipates a brilliant fall with new interpretations of Tiffany Victoria, Tiffany Bow and Tiffany Infinity. In reimagining these signature collections, she brings out the strengths of each, sculpting them in metals of harmonious colors highlighted with diamonds, creating jewelry that is as beautiful worn delicately alone or in dazzling multiples. “This is jewelry that can be worn day and night,” Amfitheatrof says. “The designs are fluid and elegant, working together or on their own to create a spectacular diamond look” Introduced in 1998, Tiffany VictoriaTM, a graphic floral pattern of marquise diamonds, is inspired by a diamond corsage ornament that was a centerpiece of Tiffany’s exhibit at the 1889 Paris World’s Fair. The new collection evolves with round and pear-shaped diamonds. Matched for color and clarity, the diamonds are set in platinum pendants, bracelets and earrings that radiate with the light and energy of the brightest stars in the sky.
ber something—or someone—with whom one shares a close bond. Eighteen karat rose and white gold form asymmetrical loops and off-center knots on slender chokers, curvaceous cuffs traced with diamonds and delicate, sparkling rings. Tiffany Infinity symbolizes the continuous connection, energy and vitality of an ancient symbol. Amfitheatrof goes minimal with this balanced form, refining its contours in cuffs and rings of sterling silver, as well as 18 karat gold and diamonds with fluid modern style. These Tiffany collections are available at Tiffany & Co. stores worldwide. Tiffany is the internationally renowned jeweler founded in New York in 1837. Through its subsidiaries, Tiffany & Co. manufactures products and operates TIFFANY & CO. retail stores worldwide, and also engages in direct selling through Internet, catalog and business gift operations. For additional information, please visit www.tiffany.com
Tiffany Bow recalls the slender thread one might tie around a finger to remem-
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Photo courtesy of TIFFANY & CO. © TIFFANY & CO.
OUR NEWS
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U LY S SE N A RDI N Ulysse Nardin Introduces First In-house Movement for Classico Collection For the first time, Ulysse Nardin introduces a Classico Collection timepiece with an in-house movement conceived and developed exclusively by the manufacture. Set within a classically designed timekeeper conveying purity in form and effortless elegance, the UN-320 caliber boasts a silicium hairspring and anchor escapement for supreme accuracy. On the watch’s dial, the hour, minutes, small seconds and date are at 6 o’clock – a stronghold of the Classico Collection’s basic design executions. With the implementation of the movement in the new Classico Manufacture timepiece, wearers can now easily set the date backwards and forwards, a function offered largely by Ulysse Nardin; use the stop seconds feature with a mere pulling of the crown; and rely with confidence on the 48-hour power reserve. Available in a striking sunray blue finish and a timeless eggshell version, both held in a 40 mm gold case, this latest addition to the Classico Collection shows that tailored style always makes a statement. Born in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1823, Ulysse Nardin followed in the watchmaking footsteps of his father, Léonard- Frédéric, apprenticing for him, and later, working with precision timepiece expert William DuBois. In 1846 in Le Locle, at the age of 23, Ulysse Nardin founded the company that still bears his name. He paved the company’s future with his pocket and marine chronometers, setting the benchmark in both civil and military realms. When he died in 1876, his son, Paul-David, took control. Ulysse Nardin grew steadily in success and renown and was crowned by more than 4,300 watchmaking awards, including 18 gold medals. Despite its vast achievements, the firm fell victim to the quartz crisis in 1983 and was put up for sale. Yet, this setback transitioned into something remarkable: a creator of high horology that would propel its own renaissance and become revered, once again, for its revolutionary developments.
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Convinced the imaginative firm could become a market leader, Rolf W. Schnyder purchased the company. It was Schnyder meeting with watchmaking genius Dr. Ludwig Oechslin that sparked the turning point for Ulysse Nardin, resulting in the development of many milestones in the watch industry. Innovation remains embedded in the Ulysse Nardin culture, often expressed through breakthrough achievements and the proactive use of new materials, like Silicium. Its many models, including its most iconic works, are housed within a four-pillar system for simple navigation: Marine, Functional, Exceptional and Classico. The Marine pillar pays tribute to Ulysse Nardin’s rich history with the sea and includes exquisite timepieces such as the Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Marine Diver and Lady Diver. “Functional” presents the gamechanging Perpetual Calendar, Dual Time and Sonata. “Exceptional” showcases the Trilogy of Time series, which catapulted the brand’s comeback, and of course, one cannot forget the Freak, which stunned the Swiss watchmaking industry for its groundbreaking use of Silicium. The category also encompasses the minute repeaters, where time is not only seen, but also heard. The Classico pillar comprises timepieces that integrate in-house dials with the rare, centuries-old art of enameling. For nearly 170 years, Ulysse Nardin has forged ahead, anchored in seafaring roots with sights set on the horizon. Forever inventive, the manufacturer remains steadfast in its pioneering precision of fusing bold innovation with undeniable style. November 2014 heralds a new era for Ulysse Nardin who joined Kering’s “Luxury – Watches and Jewellery “ division. Through this acquisition, Kering will support the continuation of Ulysse Nardin’s path of innovation and ensure the future growth of independence in the manufacture of inhouse movements. For more information, please visit www.ulysse-nardin.com
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Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN © ULYSSE NARDIN
OUR NEWS
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Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN Š ULYSSE NARDIN
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Available in a striking sunray blue finish (this page) and a timeless eggshell version (right page), both held in a 40 mm gold case, this latest addition to the Classico Collection shows that tailored style always makes a statement.
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Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN © ULYSSE NARDIN
OUR NEWS
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MA I S O N M AT HO N The “Glycine” collection.
For the 2015 summer season, Maison Mathon is launching its “Glycine” or wisteria collection as a tribute to the plant and its pastels colours, synonymous with freshness and renewal. This climbing plant delicately winds around pergolas, decorating them with its tumbling little flowers. Wisteria colours stretch from white to violet and include powdery pink shades too. In Japan, wisteria is considered a sacred tree in the Iwata sanctuary, where it has been names a “natural monument”. One tree is believed to be over 800 years old. Locally, this wisteria is called “Kujaku-Fuji” which literally means “the peacock wisteria”. Its branches are so thick and imposing that tea ceremonies are served during the day beneath the freshness of its flowers. The “Glycine” line revolves around a long necklace dressed with pink and white pearls, balls of smoked quartz, white topazes and rhodolites. The fine branches in pink gold bloom as buds and flowers in teardrop-shaped pink sapphires. The ring is like a fan of sapphires. Worn very close to the hand, it wraps around the finger like a delicate embrace. The bracelet, sits comfortably on the wrist, secured by a simple rotation of the branches. The earrings, climb up the lobes to decorate them with spring coloured sapphires, like wisteria climbing over houses and homes in the spring and summer. The delicate “Glycine” is emblematic of the naturalist style of Maison Mathon.
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Photo courtesy of MATHON © MATHON
OUR NEWS
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S O TH EB Y ’ S Sotheby’s Hong Kong to present The Cowdray Pearls
Sotheby’s Hong Kong is honoured to present The Cowdray Pearls, one of the finest and rarest grey pearl necklaces known (Est. HK$35 – 55 million / US$4.5 – 7 million*), at its Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Autumn Sale to take place on 7 October at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Formerly in the collection of Viscountess Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860 – 1932), a distinguished connoisseur and collector, this magnificent necklace strung and mounted by Cartier comprises 42 extremely rare and superb natural grey saltwater pearls well-matched in lustre, shape and size, and is accompanied by a pair of natural grey pearl earrings, mounts by Cartier London. The Cowdray Pearls will be exhibited in Singapore (12 – 13 September), Taipei (19 – 20 September), New York (24 September), London (28 September), Geneva (29 September) and the Middle East (date to be confirmed) prior to the auction in Hong Kong. QUEK Chin Yeow, Deputy Chairman of Sotheby’s Asia and Chairman of International Jewellery, Asia said, “We are extremely honoured to offer the Cowdray Pearls in Sotheby’s upcoming Autumn sale. Natural saltwater grey pearls are rarely seen at auction and the present necklace, strung with 42 superb grey pearls and of aristocratic provenance, is arguably the greatest of its kind in existence. This is an extraordinary collecting opportunity for pearl and jewellery connoisseurs around the world.”
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The Finest Grey Pearls in Existence As noted by Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF), the Cowdray Pearls is an “exceptional pearl necklace” that has been described to possess “extraordinary characteristics and merit special mention and appreciation”. Their colour subtly varies in different shades of grey and brown, partly combined with highly attractive rosé , purple and green overtones. SSEF also notes that “apart from its aesthetic beauty and rarity, this pearl necklace is also exceptional due to its documented historic provenance”. An Illustrious Provenance Formerly in the collection of Viscountess Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860-1932), the Cowdray Pearls originally comprising 42 pearls had been re-strung to 38 pearls. Two pearls from this strand after 1937 were mounted into a pair of earrings by Cartier, which remained with the Cowdray family. These and two other pearls originating from another antique jewel were recently re-strung back to its original number of 42 pearls – “to make it a superb layout of historic pearls” (SSEF, 2013). The Cowdray Pearls first appeared at auction at Sotheby’s London in 1937, with a catalogue note stating that “there is probably no finer collection of such pearls in existence”. www.sothebys.com
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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
OUR NEWS
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M AR T I N KA TZ Unique wedding proposal packages
Couture Jeweller to the stars, Martin Katz, has unveiled two new packages – ‘The Ultimate Proposal’ and ‘Luxury Wedding’ package within the exquisite Jewel Suite of The New York Palace hotel. As part of Katz’ newly unveiled Bridal ring collection, the renowned Jeweller will also debut The Palace Engagement Ring. The ring features a striking threecarat cushion ring replete with an architecturally-inspired setting that mimics the Manhattan skyline, as seen from the windows of the hotel’s Jewel Suite by Martin Katz. Two trapezoid side diamonds and a micro pave halo surround the center stone and are incorporated throughout the band. To celebrate the launch, The New York Palace is launching two lavish new travel packages that provide magnificent accommodations and supreme experiences. For those looking to dazzle their significant other with a truly unparalleled proposal, they can choose the hotel’s Ultimate Proposal Package, including a two night stay in one of the majestic Corner Suites when they purchase a Martin Katz engagement ring valued between $50,000 and $100,000. For a truly unforgettable experience, those who purchase a ring priced at over $100,000 will receive a two night stay in the sumptuous Jewel Suite by Martin Katz. The ring of choice will be proudly displayed in one of the beautiful floating show-
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cases in the suite until the time of the proposal. In addition to accommodation the couples will also receive: • Roundtrip airport transfer via a luxury sedan from any of the four New York metro airports. • VIP welcome amenities and a floral arrangement by famed florist, Kostas at Floralies. • Romantic Couples Massage at the Spa at The New York Palace. • Seven-course dinner for two catered by the hotel’s Executive Chef. Dedicated Palace “Proposal Consultant” who will work with the guest to flawlessly execute each detail of the proposal Couples who pop the question with the Ultimate Proposal Package can also choose to purchase The New York Palace Ultimate Wedding Package at The Mansion on Madison. For an additional $35,000, couples can host their wedding at the Mansion on Madison, encapsulating a true fairytale wedding that spares no detail, including a cocktail reception for up to 85 guests, a wedding cake by Ron Ben Israel, a 3 course dinner, champagne, canapés and a premium bar service. For further information visit : w w w . m a r t i n k a t z . c o m
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Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
Photo courtesy of MARTIN KATZ © MARTIN KATZ
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1 Interior view of the Jewel Suite 2 Ashoka Diamond Drops 3 Interior view of the Jewel Suite
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1 View of the Jewel Suite 2 Martin Katz 3 Exterior & terrace of the Jewel Suite All photos, courtesy of Martin Katz Š Martin Katz
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F A BE RG É Summer in Provence
Summer in Provence- A delicious season of coloured petals dancing in the warm breeze to the sound of the cicadas. It is also the season of the newest Fabergé High Jewellery timepiece. Its floral strap tells the time at the heart of a colourful stream as you sit back and watch time flow by. With summer in Provence, Fabergé has captured the blend of colours and happiness that characterise the south of France. This latest creation from the Fabergé workshops is a High Jewellery watch that dazzles with its poetic colors and shapes. Designed to resemble a garland of flowers woven on a hot afternoon, summer in Provence offers a new vision of jewellery timepieces. The sophisticated skills of Fabergé workmasters are evident in the delicacy with which the precious gems are interlaced with coloured fine stones and hard-stone micro-
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sculptures. A series of interlocking precious ribbons move across a rounded pebble, in which the movement of the watch is housed. The lines intermingle and envelop the perfectly round and harmonious contours of the case. Two flexible little bands in the lower section are filled with enamel to highlight the Fabergé name with which the piece is emblazoned. Other, snow-set with precious gemstones, unfurl across the dial to envelop the case. The softly shaped bracelet, made of diamonds strung together like beads on a necklace, caresses the wrist. In the centre, a tiny floral chain meanders over its entire length. Like a garland of lights, it mimics the gentle swaying of wild flower in the breeze.
For more information please visit www.faberge.com
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Photo courtesy of FABERGÉ © FABERGÉ
OUR NEWS
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A DLE R J o a i l l i e r s The Four Seasons
The Four Seasons, the timeless musical masterpiece by Antonio Vivaldi, is the name given to the four violin concertos that left a profound mark on the history of classical music. Inspired by the beauty of these enchanting melodies, and the fruit of a century of expertise, Adler have created four Fine Jewellery sets in 18kt white gold set with sparkling gemstones, representing Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. Four sets for four violin concertos, which open up “the confrontation between harmony and invention�. Autumn The joyous season of song, harvest and Bacchus announces the arrival of peaceful days. The air becomes lighter and the leaves start to fall, dancing a flamboyant waltz from the sky to the ground. To pay homage to this majestic ballad, 60 oval-cut rubies and a myriad of diamonds form a necklace like no other. Meanwhile six determined, dancing rubies cause a stir with more diamonds, comprising a sparkling pair of earrings. Winter Snowflakes create a bewitching whirlwind before reaching the ground, while crackling fires gladden those who relax by the hearth. In spite of the slow waltz of the short, cold winter days, the season also brings delight. Diamonds, like glistening crystals of ice, are the only jewels adorning this set. 58
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pear-cut diamonds totalling 57 carats sparkle amongst a further 4,057 diamonds in an intrinsically pure necklace, which is complemented by earrings set with 4 pear- cut diamonds for a total of 2.86 carats. Spring A season welcomed joyously by both man and beast, where verdant natural scenery and the fluttering wings of birds punctuate the gentle whisper of renewal. To celebrate this melody, a necklace set with 11 pear-cut emeralds and 395 diamonds encircles the neck of its delighted wearer, while earrings set with diamonds and 2 pear-cut emeralds complete this charming dawn serenade. Summer Passionate and mysterious, through thunderstorms and momentary lulls, summer finally emerges into tranquil sunshine. Then the night takes over, with its infinite sky and benevolent stars. The scent of pine trees, the solemn movement of the sea, and a chorus of crickets ceaselessly accompany this summertime refrain. Ten intense sapphires and hundreds of diamonds form a cascade of carats on the necklace and earrings that compose the cadence of this star-spangled set. For further information visit : www.adler.ch
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Photo courtesy of ADLER Š ADLER
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Necklace "L'Automne" in 18kt white gold set with 60 oval cut rubies 107.22 cts and 280 diamonds 58.23 cts
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Photo courtesy of ADLER Š ADLER
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Necklace "L'Hiver" in 18kt white gold set with 58 pear-shaped diamonds 57.57 cts and 4057 diamonds 17.37 cts
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Photo courtesy of ADLER Š ADLER
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Necklace "Le Printemps" in 18kt white gold set with 11 pear-shaped emeralds 62.79 cts and 395 diamonds 61.93 cts
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E NTI C E Entice your loved ones with Diamonds this festive season
Entice, the fine jewellery brand by the renowned KGK group has come up with a gorgeous and splendid range of jewellery which are perfect for gifting to your loved ones, in this season of weddings and festive galore. With Rakhabandhan and Teej round the corner, this is the best time to gift your special someone nothing less than glittering diamonds which they will dote on for years to come. Festivities and occasions like family weddings are the best time to express your feelings, with treasured gifts to keep the bond of love strong. Weddings are especially a lifetime occasion for anyone and what can be a better way of bestowing your good wishes than giving them a beautiful diamond creation, which will be preserved for ages. These gifting options from Entice celebrate the Indian spirit of occasion gifting. The bejeweled diamond collection comprises of sparkling bracelets, classic bangles, floral rings and also some beautiful detachable jewellery pieces like earrings, ear studs and necklace. These gorgeous jewels in inimitable cuts and designs reflect the style and sophistication of the new age women. Dazzling diamonds in varied shapes/cuts such as emerald cut, marquise, pear, round etc. set with impeccable finish in white, rose and yellow gold, offers choices in wearbility – from everyday wear to special occasions.
love filled sentiment of gifting something valuable to your loved ones. As it is, there is no bigger joy than the joy of giving; Go ahead and add some shimmering joys in your life with this beautiful gifting range from Entice. About Entice Taking the rich Indian jewellery heritage and enhancing it with a contemporary twist, Entice Jewellery offers a classical yet contemporary style; boasting an elegant rich look. 'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of millennium in 2004 in Hong Kong. Following a huge success with boutiques in Hong Kong and with an impression that India is now modern by design, KGK launched its first boutique of ‘Entice’ in Jaipur in 2009. Entice today has 6 standalone boutiques in Hong Kong and India (Jaipur, Mumbai, New Delhi & Bengaluru). Entice designs meet the mounting demand for an internationally aesthetic look, lending a unique artistic blend to their pieces. Associated by the strength of KGK, Entice aims to create an unparalleled position of credible leadership by providing unmatched customer delight and exceeding customer expectations at every opportunity with its precious gems and jewellery. For more information www.entice.in
Each of the baubles of this range compliments the pure and selfless
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Photo courtesy of ENTICE © ENTICE
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INTRODUCING
MASSIMO IZZO
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Photo courtesy of Massimo Izzo Š Massimo Izzo
M ASSI MO I ZZO For over 27 years Massimo’s creations have been chosen by celebrated customers around the world. MASSIMO IZZO, designer and creator of high-end jewelry inspired by Mediterranean culture is definitely an amazing artist and jewellery designer that all jewellery lovers should know and the designer all collectors should own a piece of jewellery from his amazing collections.
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His collections evoke a magic world of astonishing colors and enthralling shapes, crafted by the finest Italian jewelry school.
Welcome to the world of MASSIMO IZZO, designer and creator of high-end jewelry inspired by Mediterranean culture. The marvelous Sicilian heritage with its charm and history give roots to Massimo’s creations. His collections evoke a magic world of astonishing colors and enthralling shapes, crafted by the finest Italian jewelry school. Diamonds, raw aquamarines, morganites, lavander jade, moore and orange corals mixed with white, rose and yellow gold, sand-treated, hammered or polished by expert hands. In the Sicilian Lacets collection, grandmothers’ crocheting tradition at the beginning of the 19th century inspire refined rings with white and yellow gold filigrane, diamonds, Sardinian and Japanese coral. In the Sicilian Lacets collection, grandmothers’ crocheting tradition at the beginning of the 19th century inspire refined rings with white and yellow gold filigrane, diamonds, Sardinian and Japanese coral. Byzantine crosses, ancestral Greek coins and masks become necklaces and earrings of finest metals, peridots and emeralds. Coral pendants, rose tourmaline and lapis-lazuli earrings, Peruvian opal or fire opal rings enrich his Classic collection, crafted with precious and semi-precious gemstones. Exuberant and fantastic designs characterize the Jewels of the Sea collection. Enchanted underwater atmospheres populated by sea horses, octopuses, starfish, crabs and corals revive thanks to virtuoso craftsmanship.
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Photo courtesy of Massimo Izzo Š Massimo Izzo
The ‘Massimo Izzo for you’ service is Massimo’s special tool for creating jewels or collections made-to-order. He designs and creates unique pieces or collections exclusively for Retailers or Customers, according to their needs and desires.
For over 27 years Massimo’s creations have been chosen by celebrated customers around the world, royalty, film directors and art galleries. He has been acknowledged among the 108 contemporary designers by Olivier Dupon in “The new Jewelers” publication (Thames and Hudson), the red carpet for the new jewelers’ generation. His boutiques are located in the Fashion District in Milan and in the suggestive Archimede Square in Syracuse, Sicily.
Photo courtesy of Massimo Izzo © Massimo Izzo
Exuberant and fantastic designs characterize the Jewels of the Sea collection. Enchanted underwater atmospheres populated by sea horses, octopuses, starfish, crabs and corals revive thanks to virtuoso craftsmanship.
A longtime customer from NY asked Massimo to create the wedding rings for him and his fiancée. He created two beautiful and special rings with a little twist inspired by their family history. Massimo delivered the creations himself, while on a business trip to NY, and included in the package the video with the handcrafting process in his laboratory in Syracuse. It was an absolute success, the couple loved it and included it in the touching moments of their ceremony.
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COVER STORY
ETHO MARIA
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COVER STORY
ETHO MA RIA Etho Maria is the signature brand collection of a well established international fine jewellery manufacturing company. Marrying impeccable craftsmanship with superior design, the Etho Maria fine jewellery line translates into exquisite, wearable pieces of art that make a bold and lasting statement.
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If someone had to describe the Etho Maria style in just a few words, they would probably choose the unrivaled ability to astonish and impress on observing the fine craftsmanship of each piece.
‘’Etho Maria’’ was established in 2008 as the signature brand collection of the well known in the trade, manufacturing company ‘’Lithos’’. More than twenty years of passion and expertise in gemstones and high-end jewelry are at the heart of the ’Etho Maria’’ label. The flexibility of the pieces, the application of rose and antique cut in sapphires and the motion of the forms have become the brands’ trademarks. ‘’Etho Maria’’ is famous for creating prestigious modern pieces that are handcrafted in the company’s ateliers around the globe. That international exposure is evident in the brands’ aesthetic, the design being influenced by a diverse range of cultures. Ancient Greek pottery, Byzantine Icons, Islamic Tapestry and Chinese Handicrafts are some of the sources of inspiration and are transformed in fine pieces of jewelry in the most unexpected way. Despite the variety of the inspiration sources jewels of ’Etho Maria’’ are instantly identifiable and comfortably wearable. ’Etho Maria’’ jewels are sought after throughout the globe both by stylish women and collectors alike. The company’s creations are always a source of inspiration for the industry. Everything they do at Etho Maria rests upon one core value: their desire to offer genuine value to their customer. Every piece of fine jewellery is made with stones that have been carefully hand-picked for their exquisite beauty and value. Being masters at the art of fine crafted jewellery, each piece is lovingly created with great care at every stage in the process. This ensures the finished product will not only possess a unique beauty, but will stand the test of time. Such a philosophy encapsulates their fundamental belief that the craft of fine jewellery creation is indeed an art form. If someone had to describe the Etho Maria style in just a few words, they would probably choose the unrivaled ability to astonish and impress on observing the fine craftsmanship of each piece. Each unique design, reveals an unexpected harmony between elements and stones which appear to be made for one another. They design jewellery for those who expect the unexpected. Suffice to say, in embracing variety and a passion for innovation, their designs are truly one of a kind. Etho Maria designs are dynamic, expressing the aesthetic values the world of fine jewellery considers timeless. Each piece has a charm all of its own, a timeless value which makes them the ideal choice of the eclectic customer. At the Jewellery Historian, we are honored to host as our cover story, the amazing creations of Etho Maria. Every piece they create is definitely a masterpiece created by human hand. Marrying incredible craftsmanship with superior design, the Etho Maria fine jewelry translates into exquisite, wearable pieces of art. Every piece of jewellery created by Etho Maria is meant to convey feelings and emotions and definitely to inspire future generations of artists. For further information visit the official website www.ethomaria.com
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INTERVIEW
INÉDIT JOAILLIER
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IN É DIT J OAILLI ER
Designing and crafting are definitely means to express the artist’s spirit, ways to display the sensibility of the artist. It is a natural need to communicate.
It is a world famous guarantee that each jewellery piece was made entirely in France but also a symbol of quality, and the assurance that the piece was made to the highest professional standards
For this issue, we meet Inédit Joaillier in Rouen, in France. French jewellery-making is famous throughout the world, first and foremost because of the creativity of the country's jewellers, constantly in search of perfection. They use their timehonoured expertise to transform a designer's dream into a perfect piece of jewellery. That expertise can now be readily identified and certified thanks to the "Joaillerie de France" collective brand. Created by jewellery craftsmen and manufacturers, it guarantees that a piece of jewellery has been manufactured, assembled, set and polished in France, according to the criteria of quality and excellence that are synonymous with French jewellery. The "Joaillerie de France" seal embodies the commitment and dedication of people who have devoted their skills and talents to creating beautiful jewellery.
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A person who acquires a piece of Joaillerie de France jewellery can be sure that it has been designed and made according to the standards of perfection and distinction of French jewellery. At Inédit, pieces are unique, since they are crafted by exceptional artists.The jewellers, setter and polisher have inherited their knowledge and skills from the French jewelry tradition. To set a gem on a jewel, however small it may be, it must be conform to the strictest norms of quality : cut, color and purity. Their diamonds come straight from Anvers and Tel-Aviv, theirSapphires are certified natural and mainly come from Sri Lanka, while their rubies come from Burma and their emeralds from Colombia and Zambia.
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However, even if our inspiration is multiple, first and foremost it comes from our common interest in observing the fine details whether it be the shapes or colours. Resulting in perfect design association.
Frank, tell us a little bit about yourself and your work. My name is Frank Margueron and I was born the 24 April 1958. My parents were Jewelers in Guingamp in a little town in Brittany, in France. Despite having grown up in the world of jewellery, I saw myself having a sports career divided between the sea and the mountains. However, a skiing accident put an end to my career plan. Having always been passionate about the Arts, its the world of photography at the age of 20 that leads me to Paris for the first time and then, after making several acquaintances, I decide to move to Rouen, Normandy. It is here that I met Carole, my wife, who shares the same passion for the Arts and Literature, and together in 1984 we create the future INEDIT. We also have a son, who not only works as a Photographer but also contributes to the development of our Collections. Being both very close to nature, we live in the countryside and have a common passion for the sea that remains a great source of our inspiration. However, even if our inspiration is multiple, first and foremost it comes from our common interest in observing the fine details whether it be the shapes or colours. Resulting in perfect design association. Nature as well as architecture and certain artworks are also sources of inspiration. It was during a visit to New York that we design our first collection, the Charleston line, inspired by the « Chrysler Tower ». This symbol of Art Deco can also be found in later collections.
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In 2003, the « Arabesques » collection is born. Inspired by Italian earthenware, this proves to be our signature collection, establishing the brand INEDIT. A mix of Italian renaissance and Art Nouveau that can often be found in metal work. Followed by the « Art Nouveau » Collection, inspired by a Hector Guimard drawing found in an artwork collection in a Brittany hotel. INEDIT is a real story of a passion, and in particular a natural means to communicate and a way of expressing a sensitivity. Without this sensitivity, whether for Carole or me, no creation is possible. What were your aspirations when you were young?
Tell us about your design style. What makes your collections unique in the industry? To say that our collections are unique, would be extremely pretentious. They are only a reflection of our state of mind.
Photo courtesy of INÉDIT © INÉDIT
INEDIT is a real story of a passion, and in particular a natural means to communicate and a way of expressing a sensitivity.
The willingness to preserve our know-how and participate to the development to vocations.
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Frank Margueron
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Being both very close to nature, we live in the countryside and have a common passion for the sea that remains a great source of our inspiration.
Which are your favorite materials? Which materials and techniques your favor? Gold and forged metal. Precious stones are also extremely important in our collections. We only work with natural stones that are untreated and meet the most stringent quality standards. What according to you contributed to your success? Everyday is a new challenge and I refuse to create by proxy. How does work take place in your atelier when you design a new collection? We are 5 in the atelier working around a single set, encouraging a exchange of ideas. Each trade is represented; Designer, Jeweler and Setter. What do you like most about being a jewelry designer? Living my dream. The most valuable lesson you have learned until today? To be and remain yourself. How do you define luxury ? I would answer you the same way as I did in another question, by living the dream, to be and remain yourself.
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What is your idea of elegance ? Simplicity What is your favorite piece you’ve ever created – and what made it so special? Every piece that I design is my favourite, from the moment that it makes someone happy. What kind of person wears your jewelry? There is no archetype. Which is your “customer” ? Women and men who refuse the stereotypes and with whom we share the taste for a unique, rare and high quality object.
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INÉDIT is a real story of a passion, and in particular a natural means to communicate and a way of expressing a sensitivity.
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Gold and forged metal. Precious stones are also extremely important in our collections. We only work with natural stones that are untreated and meet the most stringent quality standards.
If you could see any woman wearing your beautiful designs, who would it be? In my opinion, the goal is that the object I had created for her makes her happy. Are men more open-minded about wearing jewellery than they used to be? I don’t know, I work very little for men Do you believe that a man should wear jewellery ? I really don’t know. My main category of customers are female and I work very little for men. What’s it like to see someone on the street wearing one of your creations ? A certain kind of happiness. Which is the destination that you find the most inspiring ? My birthplace, Brittany. Which is your favorite destination for summer holidays and which is your favorite for winter ? Every summer with Carole, we sail on our yacht in Brittany and the winter, I return to my first love ; the mountains and skiing.
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Every summer with Carole, we sail on our yacht in Brittany and the winter, I return to my first love ; the mountains and skiing.
Your favorite capital ? It’s difficult to name just one but I do love Paris, New York and basically all cities full of history. Your favorite addresses ? The cafe « Bonaparte » in Saint Germain des Prés, Paris. Your heroes in real life ? The simple women and men that know how to give a part of their existence to others. Do you think that there is a relation between fashion and jewellery design ? I don’t know. I fear that fashion is just something short-lived. Which fashion designers inspire you with their work ? Yves Saint Laurent, who was able to shake up the codes whilst remaining timeless. If you could choose one fashion designer to collaborate with, who would it be ? Ralph Laurent, who corresponds to my lifestyle. Are there any persons in art, fashion, architecture and design that inspire you with their work? No, the sources of inspiration are multiple and evolve over the years Which is your favorite author ( and / or book ) ? Any author that makes me dream Your favorite motto ? Waking up every day with the same passion for life and having new projects Which is your advice to young and aspiring jewellery designers ? Stay yourself as it will always be the best source of inspiration. If you could change one thing about your career to date, what would it be ? Nothing If, you could live the life of another designer or creative, for a day, who would it be, and why ? I have never wanted to live someone elses life. I would feel that I was creating a counterfeit. How would you define success ? Do you think you’ve found it yet ? I am not motivated by success, only sharing my passions motivates me.
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Our son Frederic is my biggest accomplishment. Today in addition to his career as a photographer, he contributes greatly to the development of our collections. We are very happy and proud because the activity, the skill will probably be transmitted . Frédéric through his shrewdness, his critical sense and talent help us to think differently. He and I are connected. I think when connected as we are it is the height of complicity.
What’s your greatest accomplishment ? Our son Frederic. Today in addition to his career as a photographer, he contributes greatly to the development of our collections. We are very happy and proud because the activity, the skill will probably be transmitted . Frédéric through his shrewdness, his critical sense and talent help us to think differently. He and I are connected. I think when connected as we are it is the height of complicity. For me the family that we form all three with my wife is by far the greatest achievement of a lifetime. What’s your greatest weakness? Most probably being too sensitive. Are you a realist or fantasist ? I am more of a realist, but a little bit of a fantasist. Your favorite quote ? I have a quote that I like a lot of Edward Hopper: "If you could say it in words, there would be no reason to paint".
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For the second year running, we are going to participate at the Biennale des Métiers d’Art, at the Revelations Exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris. Under the dome of the Grand Palais we will create, in public, a unique piece of jewelery that will later join our heritage collection.
Could you please tell us about your latest collection ? Historically, we only work with precious stones but recently, I have started to develop certain pieces with a floral theme set with fine natural untreated stones. These are very rare stones due to their high quality. What we should expect from you in the future ? The same as in the past I hope, stay myself. Could you tell us about your upcoming projects ? For the second year running, we are going to be participating at the Biennale des Métiers d’Art, the Revelations Exhibition at the Grand Palais. We will be repeating the presence that we gave in 2013, the installation of our workshop under the dome of the Grand Palais and create, in public, of a unique piece of jewelery that will join our heritage collection. In 2013, we created a ring incorporating the architectural concept of the Grand Palais. This year, based on our son Frédéric’s idea, we will create a piece that will be the meeting point between geology and jewelry. This being a symbol as France will be the host country this year for the preservation of our planet.
At the Jewellery Historian, we are grateful to Mr. Frank Margueron for meeting us and sharing with all our readers his universe. We are grateful and thankful to the entire team of Frédéric for all photos that illustrate the interview, to Carole for her warm welcome, to Gregory for helping us to realize this interview and to the entire Inédit team for allowing us to visit their ateliers and see how their amazing jewellery pieces are born and created, that we will showcase in a future issue.
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A NEW MUST
ALEX SOLDIER
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ALE X SOL DI ER Known for his elaborate metalwork, distinctive style and unparalleled craftsmanship, Alex Soldier counts the most stylish tastemakers, celebrities and organizations as clients and the jewelry trade has long praised him as a leader in the field. His incredible talent and innovative spirit has captured the hearts of leading editors, style experts and buyers that often proclaim him as the most innovative designer of our time. His work is filled with timeless appeal, intricate detail, daring mastery and affordable price points that it becomes impossible to resist his magical touch. Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry and precision and represents a constantly evolving combination of shape, color and texture—making each piece as individual as its wearer.
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ALE X SO LDIER Known for his elaborate metalwork, distinctive style and unparalleled craftsmanship, Alex Soldier counts the most stylish tastemakers, celebrities and organizations as clients and the jewelry trade has long praised him as a leader in the field. His incredible talent and innovative spirit has captured the hearts of leading editors, style experts and buyers that often proclaim him as the most innovative designer of our time. Artisanal workmanship defines Alex Soldier’s jewelry. His work is filled with timeless appeal, intricate detail, daring mastery and affordable price points that it becomes impossible to resist his magical touch. Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry and precision and represents a constantly evolving combination of shape, color and texture—making each piece as individual as its wearer. Alex Soldier designs with a passion for distinction, using innovative proprietary techniques for decorating metal surfaces to achieve an effect of original texture and detail that surpasses the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship. Handmade in New York City, the beauty of Alex Soldier jewelry lies in the way it blurs the line between fine ornament and miniature sculpture. His work is precious poetry that speaks to the heart. Alex Soldier was born on a threshold of two continents, Europe and Asia, in the Ural Mountains region, city of Perm. This region is known for its abundant natural resources such as gold and adamants. Based on a Russian folk legend, in the bosom of these mountains once lived a Russian craftsman named Danila, who spent seven years of his life to carve a flower out of malachite which would be ideal in form and beauty. So much time and effort had Danila invested into his creation that the final outcome turned out to be a masterpiece—the flower looked as if it had its own soul, even though it was made out of stone. This legend serves as an inspiration for Alex Soldier to this day. When designing jewelry, Soldier strives to create miniature works of art. He gives life to his work—be it a jewelry design or an objet d’art—making it more a piece of art than an accessory. Even as a child, Alex Soldier displayed a talent for sculpture, woodcraft, and painting miniatures. But before pursuing art as a career, he earned a master’s degree in computer engineering.
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“For me, jewelry is a work of art. Each piece of my collection is a creation of a new form, texture and structure, representing a part of me and expressing my individuality, given that I carefully plan and design with great thought. Balancing of the color, light and form perfects the composition of every creation.
In 1981 Alex Soldier made a drastic change in his profession: in just six months he was promoted from an intern to a chief designer of the largest jewelry plant in the Urals region.
Alex Soldier
His profound understanding of precious metals in concurrence with an extraordinary gift for improvisation gave birth to an entirely different and drastically novel line of one-of-a-kind miniatures. Imbued with a timeless quality, mesmerizing in the intricacy, and daring in mastery, Soldier’s objects are sought after by private collectors worldwide.
His unconventional approach to the jewelry-making process has taken the plant to a new level of recognition by winning numerous awards at trade shows across Eastern Europe. When he arrived in the United States in 1990, Soldier began to work independently, developing new methods of designing and producing contemporary jewelry in 18k gold and platinum with precious gemstones. His innovative approach and artistic aspirations led to a development of an extensive line of conceptual jewels, earning awards and professional recognition. In 1998 Alex Soldier won a Platinum Passion Award from Platinum Guild International and in 2002 a Spectrum honor from American Gem Trade Association.
Many of Soldier’s pieces are also given as prizes to distinguished artists. “Triumph,” for example, is a prize awarded annually to exceptional Russian artists in art, literature, and music. The statuette is based on a design by famed sculptor Ernst Neizvestny. For Alex Soldier, each piece he creates is a new life waiting to tell its story, like his conceptual miniature called “Nabokov’s Butterfly” that involves Jacqueline Kennedy and Andrei Voznesenski as the story’s backdrop. Or a special present to Tonino Guerra called “Dancing Man” among many others. More than just metal and stones, Soldier’s jewelry is as meaningful as his miniatures, incorporating layers of details that offer its wearer many visual surprises. Seeing jewelry as art is central to Alex Soldier’s philosophy. His longtime legacy has been rooted in creating one-of-a-kind jewelry masterworks marked by his intellectual force, mastery of techniques and the science of materials. His work is a precious poetry that speaks to the heart. What you witness here is a journey of evolving mastery of an incredible talent that bodies forth a deeply expressive voice in a world of fine jewelry. At the Jewellery Historian we love Alex Soldier for his innovative and timeless creations, his amazing style and work. We are extremely proud to feature his work in this issue because his work is definitely a must. For further information www.alexsoldier.com
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ESTHĂˆTE
Une personne qui considère l'art comme une valeur essentielle
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E STH È T E
An amazing ring by Noudar
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BREATHTAKING GEMS
By Eva Kountouraki
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. © Tiffany & Co.
BLUE SAPPHIRE
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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. © Tiffany & Co.
Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS © ADLER JOAILLIERS
[Photo in Public domain]
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
BLUE SAPPHIRE The blue color of the fine quality sapphires is the standard against which all other blue gemstones are compared. A colour so intense, so deep and fulfilling that time seems to stop when you immerse your eyes in it. Magnificent, sacred, ancient, mighty, the terms used to describe sapphires throughout the millennia have always been strong. And there is a reason for this. Sapphires grow in mountainous regions and their formation requires powerful earth transformations. They are born inside the hearts of the high rocks; however they hold the secrets of the ocean and the immensity of the universe inside them and speak right to the soul of those who have the sensitivity to listen.
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It was in 1881 when a divine landslide revealed one of the world’s greatest finds. Climbed at a great height, the famous Kashmir blue sapphires were enthroned and waiting. At the “region beyond the snow” and an elevation of more than 4.500 meters, the earth exhibited the home of probably the most beautiful sapphire crystals ever found. As the years went by and various other sources of sapphires were discovered, this original Kashmir source kept and reinforced its first position in the highest quality ranking. Those sapphires had such a special character that has never been found elsewhere until today. And just like every special thing in this world, these crystals were only mined for a short period before the source was exhausted. Today the Kashmir mines
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The magnificent and crisp Burmese crystals are often referred to as “Royal blue” in the market. A good example of the high quality Burmese material is the 62ct “Rockefeller” sapphire set on a ring that was sold in auction for over 3 million $ in 2001.
may still give some sapphires sporadically, but they newer finds do not even remind the shadows of the legendary first ones. Myanmar is another well-known area for its sapphires. Gorgeous blues come from the Burmese mines; intense colour, often dark but transparent gems, lacking the inclusions that scatter the light and create the characteristic sought-after “sleepiness” of the Kashmir material. The magnificent and crisp Burmese crystals are often referred to as “Royal blue” in the market. A good example of the high quality Burmese material is the 62ct “Rockefeller” sapphire set on a ring that was sold in auction for over 3 million $ in 2001. The famous “Ceylon” sapphires, found in the mines of Sri Lanka are equally important. This is a trustworthy source that has constantly supplied the world with blue sapphires over the centuries. Their major characteristic is their lively brilliance and often light tone. Also, many of the world’s largest sapphire crystals originate from this rich and exotic island. Other blue sapphire sources include Australia, Montana USA, Madagascar, Thailand, among others. Blue sapphire is a variety of the species Corundum, together with ruby and the fancy colored sapphires. It is a very durable and hard gemstone suitable for everyday use on all kinds of jewelry. Its blue colour ranges from very light to very dark tones, with the medium to medium-dark and vivid blues being the most valuable. Its pure blue may be slightly enriched by a violetish tint that adds to its beauty, or it can be somewhat altered by a greenish secondary hue that would lower its appeal in the market. The most highly prized sapphires in today’s markets exhibit a violetish blue to pure blue hue in medium to medium -dark tones and have a smooth “velvety” look.
Blue sapphires were esteemed greatly by all the ancient civilizations and many religions dedicated them to their gods. Ancient Greeks dedicated sapphires to Zeus, the principal god of the Greek pantheon. A potent symbol of divine favor, nobility and truth, blue sapphire was often the choice of important kings and priests. It is said that the Ten Commandments that were given to Moses were inscribed on sapphire tablets. The majority of the blue sapphires found in the mines all around the world are either very dark or very light in tone, while many are heavily included –almost opaque.
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Photo courtesy of THEODOROS © THEODOROS
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Ancient Greeks dedicated sapphires to Zeus, the principal god of the Greek pantheon. A potent symbol of divine favor, nobility and truth, blue sapphire was often the choice of important kings and priests. It is said that the Ten Commandments that were given to Moses were inscribed on sapphire tablets.
People have developed various techniques in order to enhance their appearance and make the gems more marketable. Almost all blue sapphires seen in the market today have undergone some kind of thermal treatment in order to lighten the dark tone or to develop a stronger hue. Often sapphires are also diffused with chemical elements. This creates a superficial layer of strong blue color on a gem that would otherwise be pale and of little or no interest for the market. Controlled heating may also result in making cloudy sapphire become clearer by breaking up the inclusions, or it could also help develop the phenomenon of asterism. In the past, donating a sapphire to someone was a promise of loyalty, trust and purity. Today, sapphires are among the most popular gems everywhere in the world. Used to crown important moments of our lives, as protective talismans, as symbols, these are special gemstones, capable of producing strong emotions that each individual may translate based on their personal beliefs. Whether you may choose a sapphire or it may choose you, the “truest blue” will never fail you.
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Photo courtesy of AS29 © AS29
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
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Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS © ADLER JOAILLIERS
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
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Photo courtesy of OMI PRIVÉ © OMI PRIVÉ
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BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Eva Kountouraki
Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field. She started her first collection of polished and rough gemstones at a very early age and realized that this would be her profession in the future. After studying gemology books in various languages, she attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to accredit those skills choosing the best gemological institute in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), for her studies. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all
Jewellery Historian
the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design. Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologists of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world. Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever accomplished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and precious stones. Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jewelry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and companies, advising and helping her clients to make successful purchases and investments in gemstones. She also organizes and teaches seminars for the training of gemstone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gempassionates. At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems.
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Photo courtesy of ANTONINI © ANTONINI
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OUR FAVES
In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life and in this issue, we chose to present them in a very visual way. - Address book at page 167 -
ALEXANNABUTS / SHUTTERSTOCK. COM
OUR FAVES
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TIFFANY & CO.
OUR FAVES
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CASPITA
LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
POMELLATO
BOUCHERON
OUR FAVES
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GUMUCHIAN
OUR FAVES
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LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
PICCHIOTTI
TIFFANY & CO.
ZAFFIRO
OUR FAVES
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ALEXANNABUTS / SHUTTERSTOCK. COM
OUR FAVES
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MARTIN KATZ
QEELIN
NIKOS KOULIS
MESSIKA
OUR FAVES
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AS29
OUR FAVES
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FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY
DJULA
MARLI
SETHI COUTURE
MAGERIT
OUR FAVES
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ALEXANNABUTS / SHUTTERSTOCK. COM
OUR FAVES
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RICARDO BASTA
CASPITA
LYDIA COURTEILLE
ADLER
OUR FAVES
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JACK VARTANIAN
OUR FAVES
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MARTIN KATZ
LETICIA LINTON
TIFFANY & CO.
GORALSKA
OUR FAVES
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ALEXANNABUTS / SHUTTERSTOCK. COM
OUR FAVES
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ROBERTO COIN
OMI PRIVÉ
QEELIN
BOUCHERON
OUR FAVES
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GUCCI
GUCCI
GUCCI
OUR FAVES
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CASPITA
SUTRA
QEELIN
YANNIS SERGAKIS
OUR FAVES
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ALEXANNABUTS / SHUTTERSTOCK. COM
OUR FAVES
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AS29
THEODOROS
CARRERA Y CARRERA
PASQUALE BRUNI
OUR FAVES
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LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
OUR FAVES
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MICHAEL ARAM
MICHAEL ARAM
MOUSSON ATELIER
GORALSKA
ZOLOTAS
OUR FAVES
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SPOTLIGHT
POMELL ATO
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POMEL L ATO
Photo courtesy of POMELLATO Š POMELLATO
Purity that seduces time
Synonym of creativity and personality on the international jewellery scene, Pomellato was founded in 1967 thanks to the intuition of its founder, Pino Rabolini. The success story of this company runs parallel with the personality and unmistakable style of its creations, unique in their combination of stones, shapes, colours and impeccable artisan manufacture. In today’s ever changing world, few pieces of jewellery are recognized as icons. Nudo by Pomellato is one of the few. This ring, created in 2001, has remained an unmistakable classic over the years, as if it has existed forever. Yet the apparent simplicity of the Nudo collection is the result of a true revolution in taste and design. A trademark of the Milanese brand.
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In today’s ever changing world, few pieces of jewellery are recognized as icons. Nudo by Pomellato is one of the few.
The collection was initially launched in 5 gemstones; now the range includes 13 different nuances, 3 sizes, Nudo Diamond and Nudo Solitaire.
This ring, created in 2001, has remained an unmistakable classic over the years, as if it has existed forever.
To celebrate the 10th anniversary, in 2011, Nudo was launched in a new Maxi version and the most recent additions are the Petit and Diamond interpretations, to enhance the signature design’s spectrum of colours and sizes.
Yet the apparent simplicity of the Nudo collection is the result of a true revolution in taste and design. A trademark of the Milanese brand. Pomellato, founded in the 60’s had the secret from the very beginning. The secret of knowing how to break the rules in the traditional world of jewellery.
There are limitless ways to personalize the sculptural solitaire. Whether worn solo, or stacked in multiples to create an individ-
With a solid background in gold craftsmanship, Pomellato dazzled and amazed with innovative, sensual jewellery that women want to wear everyday and change according to the styles of fashion: the first prêt-a-porter jewellery. An original style expressing itself through generous, cabochon cut, coloured gemstones with proud setting. Like all true innovators Pomellato has continued to amaze and enchant; and so with a new aesthetic the Nudo collection was created. A ring that could seem to be just a classic solitaire, but actually also has all the nonconformist characteristics of the brand.
The gold ring is entirely rounded with a simple understated setting which seems to magically hold the stone so that it creates the impression of being suspended, almost floating, to catch the light and reflections on its specially faceted surface. A seemingly simple line that is actually the work of highly skilled craftsmanship: the setting and stone are registered copyright.
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ual statement, there is only one Nudo. You may slip off your dress, but the Nudo stays on your skin. A story of creativity, consistency and visionary research Synonym of creativity and personality on the international jewellery scene, Pomellato was founded in 1967 thanks to the intuition of its founder, Pino Rabolini. Heir to a family of goldsmiths, Rabolini was the first to introduce the philosophy of prêt-àporter into the world of jewellery, attributing a strong distinctive identity to the brand, thanks to which Pomellato soon became renowned on the Italian market and in the rest of the world, becoming the fifth jewellery company in Europe and one of the biggest players in the entire sector at international level. Inspiration, artisan expertise and flair The success story of this company runs parallel with the personality and unmistakable style of its creations, unique in their combination of stones, shapes, colours and impeccable artisan manufacture. Every new Pomellato collection is the expression of surprising creativity that is always visionary and often becomes a benchmark for the entire category.
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Photo courtesy of POMELLATO © POMELLATO
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Photo courtesy of POMELLATO © POMELLATO
Photo courtesy of POMELLATO © POMELLATO
With 620 employees, Pomellato has always entrusted a role of fundamental importance to the artisan manufacture of its jewels, using highly qualified artisans, today represented by over 100 goldsmiths at the headquarters in Milan. A success story Equally important are the entrepreneurial skills of the founder who, after having brilliantly headed the company for over 30 years, at the end of the nineties decided to hand leadership over to external management. In 2008 came another turning point: Rabolini met Andrea Morante, former COO at Gucci and investment banker for Credit Suisse and Morgan Stanley in London. Morante was appointed CEO of Pomellato and became a minority shareholder. Sergio Silvestris, a well-known and highly respected expert in the jewellery sector, was head of creativity for over 30 years, from 1980 to 2014. Sergio Silvestris started out as advertising manager and then extended his range of action to the image and creativity of jewellery. Some of his milestones are the charity project for the International Committee of the Red Cross in 1994-1995, the Nudo ring in 2001, brand icon known worldwide as synonym of Pomellato, in 2007 the Haute Couture Pom Pom, comprising unique unrepeatable pieces and, in 2012, Pomellato 67, the special line of jewellery inspired by the reworking in silver of the maison’s classic style codes.
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Pomellato and the Kering Group In July 2013, Pomellato joined the Kering Group, world leader in apparel and accessories, Kering develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands: Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Brioni, Christopher Kane, McQ, Stella McCartney, Tomas Maier, Sergio Rossi, Boucheron, Dodo, Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard, Pomellato, Qeelin, Ulysse Nardin, Puma, Volcom, Cobra, Electric and Tretorn. By ‘empowering imagination’ in the fullest sense, Kering encourages its brands to reach their potential, in the most sustainable manner. For more information about Pomellato visit the official website www.pomellato.com
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Photo courtesy of POMELLATO © POMELLATO
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SPECIAL
AUR O R A B OR E A L IS Recently we said goodbye to the last full moon of summer. Aurora Borealis, the Northern lights will definitely illuminate the new season with amazing jewellery.
- Address book at page 167 -
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DOVES BY DORON PALOMA
PASQUALE BRUNI
LYDIA COURTEILLE
CELESTIAL FAVES
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LYDIA COURTEILLE
DJULA
YOKO LONDON
CELESTIAL FAVES
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JACK VARTANIAN
DJULA
LETICIA LINTON
CELESTIAL FAVES
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SUTRA
LYDIA COURTEILLE
LE VIAN
CELESTIAL FAVES
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TIMEPIECES
ULYSSE NARDIN
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ULYSSE NARDIN
Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN Š ULYSSE NARDIN
Ulysse Nardin Marks Artemis Racing Partnership with Commemorative Marine Diver
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The America’s Cup is the most important yachting competition of all time, and for the event’s 35th year, Ulysse Nardin sails into the sport as an official partner of Sweden’s Artemis Racing.
The America’s Cup is the most important yachting competition of all time, and for the event’s 35th year, Ulysse Nardin sails into the sport as an official partner of Sweden’s Artemis Racing. To celebrate the landmark collaboration, the timepiece manufacture is launching an exclusive line of the iconic Marine Diver. Vivid in deep-ocean blue with bursts of signature Artemis Racing yellow, the limited edition of 250 timekeepers was revealed in Gothenburg, Sweden, host to the America’s Cup World Series. This preliminary competition, held on August 28-30, is a fitting atmosphere to reveal the new Marine Diver Artemis Racing watch. Since the beginning, only four countries have won the America’s Cup – the United States, Australia, New Zealand and Switzerland. Artemis Racing is striving to be the Cup’s new steward, bringing it to Europe and Sweden for the first time; and Ulysse Nardin is very proud to support this historical endeavor – and commemorate it with a collectible timepiece. “Ulysse Nardin’s history of navigating the sea, paired with the DNA of innovation and technology, which is firmly established in both companies, makes this partnership a perfect match,” says Patrik Hoffmann, CEO of Ulysse Nardin. “When meeting the Artemis engineers, technicians, and craftsmen at their base in San Francisco, I quickly realized that the spirit of passion and innovation is the driving force behind this extraordinary team.” The energy and ingenuity of the Artemis Racing team is mirrored in this special execution of the Marine Diver, made for the milestone moment. Presenting a sleek yet durable mixture of textures, including stainless steel and rubber, the piece is ideal for yachtsmen who welcome the fiercest of competition. Reflecting love for the sport while honoring the occasion is the original pattern on the watch’s face; here, vessels seem to float on the sea as if awaiting their turn to set sail. Highlighting the partnership is the Artemis Racing insignia and “Challenger 35th America’s Cup Artemis Racing” tribute. These details, alongside the bold hour markers, hands and strap accented in yellow, with the Artemis Racing logo just below the dial, show a highly personal connection between the brand and the team. Reinforcing the nautical roots of each is the intricate wave pattern around the dial.
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Photos courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN © ULYSSE NARDIN
Boasting exceptional water resistance to 300 meters, made possible thanks to the screw-locked crown and case-back, it also features a unidirectional rotating bezel, which prevents any accidental adjustment to the dive time. Forty-four millimeters in diameter and powered by the UN-26 selfwinding base caliber, the timepiece offers a power reserve indicator, small seconds register and a date display at 6 o’clock, among other precise functionality.
Complex in its DNA, robust in its aesthetic, the Marine Diver Artemis Racing is the watch for the yachtsman in all of us. Whether we are avid participators in the sport or watch from the shoreline, Ulysse Nardin celebrates the sailor spirit by way of this partnership and its celebratory timepiece. The Marine Diver Artemis Racing is available through Ulysse Nardin’s worldwide retail network. www.ulysse-nardin.com
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Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN © ULYSSE NARDIN
ADDRESS BOOK
ADDRESS BOOK
ADLER JOAILLIERS www.adler.ch
LEYLA ABDOLLAHI www.leyla-abdollahi.com
RICARDO BASTA www.ricardobasta.com
ALEX SOLDIER www.alexsoldier.com
LE VIAN www.levian.com
SETHI COUTURE www.sethicouture.com
ANTONINI www.antonini.it
LYDIA COURTEILLE www.lydiacourteille.com
SOTHEBY’S www.sothebys.com
AS29 www.as29.com
MAGERIT www.mageritjoyas.com
SUTRA www.sutrajewels.com
BOUCHERON www.boucheron.com
MARLI www.marlinyc.com
THEODOROS www.theodoros.com.gr
CARRERA Y CARRERA www.carreraycarrera.com
MARTIN KATZ www.martinkatz.com
TIFFANY & CO. www.tiffany.com
CASPITA www.caspita.ch
MASSIMO IZZO www.massimoizzo.com
ULYSSE NARDIN www.ulysse-nardin.com
DOVES BY DORON PALOMA www.dovesjewelry.com
MESSIKA www.messika.com
YANNIS SERGAKIS www.yannissergakis.com
DJULA www.djula.fr
MICHAEL ARAM www.michaelaram.com
YOKO LONDON www.yokolondon.com
ENTICE www.entice.in
MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.ru
YEPREM www.yepremjewellery.com
ETHO MARIA www.ethomaria.com
MATHON www.mathon-paris.com
ZAFFIRO www.zaffirojewelry.com
FABERGE www.faberge.com
NIKOS KOULIS www.nikoskoulis.gr
ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr
FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY www.farahkhanfinejewellery.com
NOUDAR www.noudar.com
GORALSKA JOAILLERIE www.goralska.com
OMI PRIVÉ www.omiprive.com
GUCCI Jewelry & Timespieces www.guccitimeless.com
PASQUALE BRUNI www.pasqualebruni.com
GUMUCHIAN www.gumuchian.com
POMELLATO www.pomellato.com
INEDIT JOAILLIER www.inedit-joaillier.fr
PICCHIOTTI http://www.picchiotti.it
JACK VARTANIAN www.jackvartanian.com
QEELIN www.qeelin.com
LETICIA LINTON www.lbldesign.com.br
ROBERTO COIN www.robertocoin.com Jewellery Historian
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Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Creative director-at-large Panayiotis Simopoulos Founder Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier --Contributors Eva Kountouraki, Martin Huynh, Christina Rodopoulou --Creative Jewellery Historian Production Jewellery Historian Publishing Jewellery Historian & 16ml --Photo agencies Shutterstock, Pixabay, The stocks --Advertising info@jewelleryhistorian.com
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Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or magazine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS We would like to thank all who have contributed to the compilation of this issue. It would not have been accomplished without their significant contribution. The successful publication that owes a great deal to the professionals in the creative industry who have given us precious insights and feedbacks. And to the many others whose names are not credited but have made specific input in this issue, we thank you for your continuous support.
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#Committed to Heritage and Creativity
Stand up for their promotion Stand up for their protection
United Nations Educational, ScientiďŹ c and Cultural Organization A campaign led with the support of the French customs
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