Jewellery Historian
Summer issue
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INSIDE THIS ISSUE
Summer 2015 INTRODUCING MORATORIUM A unique perspective on simplified and timeless style
COVER STORY PALMIERO Exquisite pieces of art, unique as the people who wear them
INTERVIEW FRÉDÉRIC MATHON & FRÉDÉRIC MANÉ An introduction to the creative world of MATHON
A NEW MUST YANNIS SERGAKIS Different level of commitment, a different tying knot
NEW COLLECTION LEYLA ABDOLLAHI Bold, beautiful and with a touch of darkness
SPOTLIGHT GUCCI Gucci introduces Flora motif in a contemporary assortment of feminine designs
EDUCATION GECI Time for a “Master in Gem and Jewelry management”
DESIGNER MOMENTS MEGHNA PATEL Jewellery designer Meghna Patel talks about what she treasures most in life
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REGULARS EDITOR’S LETTER Our editor-in-chief introduces you the new issue
ISSUE GLOBE All the jewellery designers of this issue at a glance
NEWS News from around the world
ESTHÈTE The editor’s jewellery choice of the month
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS TURQUOISE Eva introduces us a new gemstone in every issue
OUR FAVES Jewellery for an important moment of life
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Kallithea springs, Rhodes, Greece
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EDITOR’S LETTER This issue represents so much for us all at the Jewellery Historian. It is our twelfth issue that marks our first birthday as a magazine. This issue represents a huge amount of love and support, the love and support all of you unconditionally offered us during our first year. This issue also marks the arrival of Panayiotis Simopoulos, who accepted to join our team as creative director-at-large. Panayiotis is the rarest kind of creative artist, one who creates extraordinary images. With a unique creative vision, whilst maintaining a clear vision of delivering a message that speaks directly to the reader, he ultimately creates an exciting and balanced visual experience, which is the perfect approach for our vision of Jewellery Historian. Together with many of the most talented young photographers, I am sure that he’ll deliver, from our next issue, the most memorable, exciting and unique images and fashion editorials that the magazine has ever published. When I decided to create this magazine, I wanted to share my aesthetic vision of my biggest passions, jewellery and creativity. I believe that with our great team we succeeded and we promise to offer you the best quality and keep our standards at the highest levels. Our standards are definitely high and will remain high. We are not snob or arrogant, but we are very selective. One of our missions as a team and as a magazine, is to educate, inspire and to promote jewellery & timepieces designers, the expertise and vision of famous international maisons and talented young designers with the goal of raising the awareness of jewellery & timepieces design, as a form of creative expression. After all, luxury is not an industry, but a language. I hope you will enjoy reading and I wish you all a great summer 2015 !!!
Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief
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ISSUE GLOBE
In every issue, we introduce you to the most talented jewellery designers and business people. At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest
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quality. We value creativity and innovation and we're not afraid to challenge ourselves and others. Discover the designers & brands that we are honored to showcase in this issue.
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Carlo PALMIERO
Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO
Carlo Palmiero grew up in the 60’s in Valenza, a small town of Piedmont, a region in the northern part of Italy. Palmiero by bucking the trend and modifying the standards of classical jewellery (which in those years mostly referred to solitaire, contrarié or important centers surrounded by diamonds) moved the attention from the “centre” to the whole object. He dilated the shapes and expanded the attention to the whole jewel surface. His rings become 360° sculptures, including the shank, which is now protagonist and not only simple stand. Nowadays, Carlo Palmiero, together with his team, conceives his fantastic and fascinating creations in the modern laboratory-atelier inaugurated in Valenza in 2007. PALMIERO Jewellery Design shows top quality and creativity, authentically “haute de gamme” and authentically Made in Italy.
Frédéric MANÉ Frédéric Mané was born in south France, in Perpignan, in 1982. He spent his childhood near Collioure, the famous city of painters.
Photography by YOAANN L’HOSTELLIER. Photo courtesy of MATHON PARIS © MATHON
He first started his artistic career in 2000, when he studied product design in Paris. Working his different design studios in Paris, from Nina Ricci, to Arthus Bertrand jewellery and Swarovski, he had the unique opportunity to work on different collections, including perfume’s bottles and jewellery. After this creative trip, he joined a design agency, creating precious items for Montblanc. He also collaborated to elaborate different luxury life-style projects for Lancel, and accessories for italian designer Roberto Cavalli. Since 2009, he is the head designer for Mathon’s collection and designs as well all special orders, produced by Mathon. His sources of inspiration are arts and famous muses of history. Antique legends meet nature in motion and dragonfly wings the dewdrop of leaves.
Leyla ABDOLLAHI
Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI © LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
Bold, beautiful and with a touch of darkness, Leyla Abdollahi’s jewellery successfully demands your attention. The seductive pieces have a unique edge that appeals to confident sophisticated women who are drawn to strikingly dramatic jewellery with a story to tell. Born and raised with both Eastern and Western influences, Leyla Abdollahi who has a fine arts background successfully honed her natural ability in jewellery design when she studied for her BA in Jewellery Design at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design. Her handcrafted jewellery provokes the kind of visual pleasure that has caught the attention of many industry insiders and has led to collaborations.
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Yannis SERGAKIS Yannis Sergakis is the descendant of a well-established family of Greek diamond traders. He was drawn into the alluring world of precious stones while still a child, when he spent hours observing his uncles in their showroom.
Photo courtesy of YANNIS SERGAKIS © YANNIS SERGAKIS
After studying gemology and design at the Gemological Institute of America, Yannis Sergakis worked as a trader alongside his family until 2004, when he set up his own business. More interested in creating exquisite jewels than signing them, he started collaborating with renowned jewellery houses in Greece and abroad. Over thirty collections later, with the maturity of a designer who has spent a decade honing his craft and the assertiveness of someone whose sought after pieces sell at the world’s most exclusive boutiques, Yannis Sergakis has taken the most important step yet – creating his own signature line.
Jeanette Lai THOMAS
Founded in 2009 by designer Jeanette Lai Thomas, Moratorium has an evergrowing following of non-conformists around the world. Transcending season, trend or gender, each piece is designed and hand-finished by Lai Thomas in her workshop. Working within a design ethos founded on creativity and authenticity and only accepting the highest quality possible, Moratorium designs are perpetually refined throughout the creative process. In a provocative expression of individuality, Moratorium works exclusively with precious metals and diamonds—a rare quality in contemporary jewelry today.
Photo courtesy of MORATORIUM © MORATORIUM
Moratorium is a creator of precious metal jewelry designed and handcrafted in Brooklyn, New York. Drawing inspiration from lines, forms and structures — both man-made and natural —Moratorium presents a unique perspective on simplified and timeless style. Dynamic and meticulously crafted silhouettes are the heart of the collection and create immediate distinction from other contemporary collections.
FRÉDÉRIC MATHON
Photography by YOAANN L’HOSTELLIER. Photo courtesy of MATHON PARIS © MATHON
Frédéric MATHON is one of the rare French CEO who is leading company and workshop where jewels have always been producing in a pure French traditional way. After he has graduated from High School of Commerce in 1976, Frédéric MATHON joined family workshop bringing young and dynamic breath to the company. Nevertheless, this visionary CEO looks further. This dynamic CEO is more than company’s President. He is soul and body of the company. He works closely with Design Department, participates in development of new collections and supervises all levels of production process from the drawings to the final jewel on customer’s finger.Even if his passion for jewellery is immense his curiosity and the interest in other people makes him much more rich. Jewellery Historian
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NEWS
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U LY S SE N A RDI N Classico Lady Luna
Honoring the moon’s majesty is the Classico Lady Luna. Moon’s lure has affected and fascinated the natural world for millenniums. A traditionally styled timepiece, the Classico Luna draws inspiration from the moon in a different way. Similar in principle to the limited-edition Moonstruck’s indication of the moon’s phases and based on a development with Ludwig Oechslin DNA, the Classico Luna precisely depicts the moon’s rotation in a realistic representation. The moon reflects the light of the sun as it rotates clockwise around the earth, and the Classico Luna depicts its angle of illumination as its moon rotates around the center of the timepiece – a portrayal of earth – making one rotation in 12 hours. In its speed to fulfill its moon phase circle in 29.5 days, the color of the moon phase disc will change, increasing and decreasing as the moon wanes or waxes. A self-winding watch, the Classico Luna makes reading the moon’s phases simple. The moon phase is set over a corrector at the 4 to 5 o’clock position. Classic and slim dress watch, the mother-ofpearl dial features straight indexes as well as an hour hand representing the sun.
The Classico Lady Luna is expressive, honoring the moon’s powerfully feminine mystique through its glamorous aesthetic, particularly when set with diamonds on the aventurine disc of the dial and on the bezel. In 1846 in Le Locle, at the age of 23, Ulysse Nardin founded the company that still bears his name. He paved the company’s future with his pocket and marine chronometers, setting the benchmark in both civil and military realms. Ulysse Nardin grew steadily in success and renown and was crowned by more than 4,300 watchmaking awards, including 18 gold medals. For nearly 170 years, Ulysse Nardin has forged ahead, anchored in seafaring roots with sights set on the horizon. Forever inventive, the manufacturer remains steadfast in its pioneering precision of fusing bold innovation with undeniable style. September 2014 heralds a new era for Ulysse Nardin who joined Kering’s “Luxury – Watches and Jewellery “ division. For more information, please visit www.ulysse-nardin.com
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Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN © ULYSSE NARDIN
OUR NEWS
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Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN Š ULYSSE NARDIN
OUR NEWS
The dial of both Classico Lady Luna, is White mother of pearl with 7 diamonds. The case, is in 18kt rose gold without diamonds ( left ) or set with 76 diamonds 0.88 ct (right )
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Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN Š ULYSSE NARDIN
OUR NEWS
The dial of this version, is White mother of pearl and blue aventurine set with 72 diamonds 0.13 ct
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T I F F A NY & CO. Meet Tiffany T
In her new role as Tiffany’s design director, Francesca Amfitheatrof took the measure of the city—its power, energy and daring—and captured it in the graphic Tiffany T. Born in New York, Tiffany T is an icon for a new era. Amfitheatrof dedicates it to the world’s great cities and the global travelers who gravitate to art and culture—and the edge, where creativity sparks change. “I wanted to create a symbol for modern life and its relentless energy that flows through New York and drives art and culture around the world,” she says. “This is just the beginning of what I hope to accomplish.” A trained jeweler and silversmith, Amfitheatrof found her edge in sketches inspired by the newness all explorers seek and the sheer lightness of Tiffany design. Her work was also infused with the spirit of American design that thrives on a bold approach to established traditions. These influences translated into strokes of genius, a flurry of forward motion as rhythmic and effortless on paper as it is in precious metal.
ling silver gives Tiffany T the strength of architecture with which it travels from chic to sublime. Wide cuffs and minimal bracelets perfectly contour the wrist. Multiple chains of varied lengths and elegant pendants drape the neckline. Rings stack seamlessly and earrings move with grace. Altogether, Tiffany T is a rich mix of options, layered in striking looks of pure ease and sensuality. Stonesetters bring the light of the finest diamonds and glowing gems to Amfitheatrof’s beautiful beginning as Tiffany’s design director. They are like the capstones of a bejeweled city rising in the night sky, alive with possibility. Tiffany & Co. operates jewelry stores and manufactures products through its subsidiary corporations. Its principal subsidiary is Tiffany and Company. The Company operates TIFFANY & CO. retail stores in the Americas, Asia-Pacific, Japan and Europe, as well as in the United Arab Emirates and Russia. It also engages in direct selling through Internet, catalog and business gift operations. For more information, please visit www.tiffany.com
Tiffany artisans are the master builders of Amfitheatrof’s brilliant play of angles and curves. Their skill with 18 karat gold—rose, yellow and white—and ster-
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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.
OUR NEWS
Tiffany T bracelets (from left): Medium Wire Bracelet in 18 karat rose gold, Square Bracelet in sterling silver, Wire Bracelet with Diamonds in 18 karat yellow gold. Photo courtesy of GUCCI Š GUCCI
Price available upon request
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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.
OUR NEWS
Tiffany T square bracelet in 18 karat gold (from left): rose gold, white gold, yellow gold. Price available upon request
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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.
OUR NEWS
Tiffany T smile pendant in 18 karat rose gold with diamonds. Price available upon request
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GU C CI Gucci timepieces & jewelry presents a duo of seasonal interlocking watches
Bringing colour into the Interlocking watch collection, Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry is pleased to introduce two new Interlocking watches in a bright, seasonal palette. The timepieces come in charming tones of Pink Peony or Indigo Blue and can be teamed with other Gucci accessories, released in the same colours. The Interlocking design, clearly highlighted by these new shades of colour, is made up of two bold ÂGÊsÊ, a reference to the entwined initials of GucciÊs founder, Guccio Gucci. The motif is worked in contrasting brushed and polished stainless steel and the watchÊs large 37 mm size accentuates the sweeping curves of this recognisable emblem. Pink or blue sun-brushed dials are paired with matching coloured calf leather straps, adding a vibrant splash. The pure colour design on the dials simply show the ÂSwiss MadeÊ seal at six oÊclock and the Gucci logo at 12 oÊclock. Colourful and playful, this pair is an ideal way to accessorise the summer season and beyond. About Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry
1970s. Taking advantage of the worldwide recognition of the Florentine house – and its unique duality in brand positioning, pairing modernity and heritage, innovation and craftsmanship, trendsetting and sophistication – Gucci Timepieces is one of the most reliable and consistent fashion watch brands, with a clear design approach and positioning. Made in Switzerland, Gucci watches are recognized for their design, quality and craftsmanship and are distributed worldwide through the exclusive network of directly operated Gucci boutiques and selected watch distributors. Since January 2010, Gucci Timepieces has also been distributing the Gucci Jewelry collections, capitalizing on the expertise gained in the watch sector and leveraging the synergies between the watch and jewelry industries. Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accessories which develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands. Gucci Jewelry offers Italian made designs that can be worn everyday and treasured forever. For more information about Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry, please visit www.gucciwatches.com.
Gucci Timepieces has been designing, developing and manufacturing iconic Gucci watches since the early
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Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
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E NTI C E A Bouquet of Floral Bloom
Entice, the fine jewellery brand by the century oldKGK group has unveiled an exoticcollection of jewellery inspired by exquisite flowers. Each bauble of the collection transpires a timeless saga of pristine beauty and delicacy. Since a long time, flowers have been associated with feminity, grace and charm. The same attributes are exhibited in Entice’s floral collection, where each piece is intricately crafted with stupendous precision and skills to make it a perfect adornment for a beautiful ‘you’. In this collection, there is something for everyone who loves jewellery and has a penchant for alluring fresh flowers. The collection is lightweight and strikingly gorgeous. It comprises of beautiful necklace, ring, earrings, ear stud and bracelets. Ear studs and rings withstunning rubies set in dazzling diamonds are certain to make you fall in love with them in a single look itself. Bracelets and earrings with diamonds in various shapes, set in white, rose and yellow gold are indeed irresistible for an avid jewellery lover. Diamond necklace and earrings in unique and intricate designs are a perfect bet for a glamorous evening out and are bound to get you loads of compliments. The variety of styles and designs make this assortment a ‘must-have’ for a versatile jewellery collection. Add some bloom to your jewellery collection with this exclusive floral range from Entice where each bauble is a treasure to own and a pride for the wearer.
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About Entice Jewellery Taking the rich Indian jewellery heritage and enhancing it with a contemporary twist, Entice Jewellery offers a classical yet contemporary style; boasting an elegant rich look. 'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of millennium in 2004 in Hong Kong. Following a huge success with boutiques in Hong Kong and with an impression that India is now modern by design, KGK launched its first boutique of ‘Entice’ in Jaipur in 2009. Entice today has 6 standalone boutiques in Hong Kong and India (Jaipur, Mumbai, New Delhi & Bengaluru). Entice designs meet the mounting demand for an internationally aesthetic look, lending a unique artistic blend to their pieces. Associated by the strength of KGK, Entice aims to create an unparalleled position of credible leadership by providing unmatched customer delight and exceeding customer expectations at every opportunity with its precious gems and jewellery. About Parent Group KGK The KGK group, established in 1905 by Kothari family of Jaipur, is a global corporation with fully integrated operations in the Gems & Jewellery industry, with presence across 15 countries. A pioneer in the world of precious stones, KGK Group has been sourcing, manufacturing and distributing diamonds, colored stones and jewellery for decades. Being sightholder with industry barons like De Beers, Rio Tinto &Alrosa, KGK ensures nothing but the finest diamonds and at the most reasonable prices. The strength of KGK is vast, resulting in unmatchable benefits to the end consumer.
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Photo courtesy of ENTICE © ENTICE
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GU C CI Gucci timepieces & jewely introduces Horsebit watches in pink gold PVD
Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry presents two new additions to the Horsebit watch collection in pink gold PVD. Gucci’s horsebit motif, one of the House’s signature icons, has been translated into a stylish watch design, as seen in the existing Horsebit timepiece line. The two new variants are available in a delicate 28mm size and are treated with a glossy pink gold PVD finish. The variant with a black dial and Roman numerals offers a classic look, whilst the second model, with a mother of pearl dial set with diamonds at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, provide for a more precious touch. The horsebit design takes centre stage and the curves of this elegant motif gently embrace the bangle, sweeping around the understated dial. Simple and elegant, the dials show the ‘Swiss Made’ seal at six o’clock and the Gucci logo at 12 or 3 o’clock. These new timepieces are worked in the chic bangle style adding further refinement to these extensions, whilst remaining wearable for every day. About Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry Gucci Timepieces has been designing, developing and manufacturing iconic Gucci watches since the early
1970s. Taking advantage of the worldwide recognition of the Florentine house – and its unique duality in brand positioning, pairing modernity and heritage, innovation and craftsmanship, trendsetting and sophistication – Gucci Timepieces is one of the most reliable and consistent fashion watch brands, with a clear design approach and positioning. Made in Switzerland, Gucci watches are recognized for their design, quality and craftsmanship and are distributed worldwide through the exclusive network of directly operated Gucci boutiques and selected watch distributors. Since January 2010, Gucci Timepieces has also been distributing the Gucci Jewelry collections, capitalizing on the expertise gained in the watch sector and leveraging the synergies between the watch and jewelry industries. Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accessories which develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands. Gucci Jewelry offers Italian made designs that can be worn everyday and treasured forever. For more information about Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry, please visit www.gucciwatches.com.
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Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
OUR NEWS
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A ncie nt G r ee k S a nd a l s & I l i a s L a la o u nis Limited-edition jewelled sandals The absolute must-have for this summer For Spring / Summer 2015 Ancient Greek Sandals collaborate with the iconic jewelry brand Ilias Lalaounis to develop a collection of 7 precious sandals. Ilias Lalalounis (1920-2013), jeweler, artist, and academician, has become world renowned for creating luxurious gold jewelry steeped in history. His vision breathes new life into Greek museum artifacts and transforms them into jewelry by reviving age old neglected/forgotten techniques while also introducing the use of modern technology. Known for his collections inspired by Greek history, the Lalaounis jewelry style became a reference of the socalled Greek chic and women such as Jackie Onassis, Elisabeth Taylor and recently Charlize Theron wore his jewels. Christina Martini, creative director of Ancient Greek Sandals worked closely with Maria Lalaounis, one of Ilias Lalaounis daughters and creative director of the brand, in order to design sandals using Lalounis iconic jewels and unique techniques. lias Lalaounis has always been a great inspiration for me, not only in my designs but also in founding my own brand. Ancient Greek Sandals, which uses centuries old techniques in order to make sandals for modern women, has the same concept as Ilias Lalounis had in the 1950’s. It was a dream going through the archives of this heritage brand, visiting its headquarters and witnessing the art of craftsmanship. With Maria we had the same vision from the start and the whole procedure was very creative and fun’
For the 7 sandals have been used gold plated jewels from Lalaounis ‘Minoan & Mycenaean’ and ‘Paleolithic & Neolithic’ collections and they are available in natural, chocolate brown, grey, black and white vachetta leather. Born and raised in Greece, cofounder and designer, Christina Martini is a BA (Hons) graduate in Footwear Design and Product Development from the prestigious Cordwainers College (2000). Christina previously worked as a shoe designer for Balenciaga (2008-2010), Louis Vuitton and Iris srl. Her business partner and co-founder Nikolas Minoglou, was born in London and raised in Greece. An MBA graduate from Babson College (USA), in 2006 returned to Athens and took over the family’s well established footwear business, before joining forces with Christina. Ancient Greek Sandals are available at some of the best retailers worldwide including Harvey Nichols, MATCHESFASHION.COM and Joseph in London, Le Bon Marche, Colette and Merci in Paris, Excelsior and Antonia in Milan, Theresa in Munich, Apropos in Dusseldorf, Cologne and Hamburg, Bergdorf Goodman and Kirna Zabete in New York, Barneys, Neiman Marcus, Forty Five Ten, A’Maree’s and Just One Eye in the USA, Boutique One in Dubai, Club 21 in Singapore, Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, Net-a-Porter, Luisa via Roma, Moda Operandi and My Theresa online.
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Photo courtesy of ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS © ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS
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OUR NEWS
Christina Martini, creative director of Ancient Greek Sandals worked closely with Maria Lalaounis, one of Ilias Lalaounis daughters and creative director of the brand, in order to design sandals using Lalounis iconic jewels and unique techniques.
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OUR NEWS
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INTRODUCING
MO RATORIUM
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Photo courtesy of MORATORIUM © MORATORIUM
M O RATORIU M Moratorium is a creator of precious metal jewelry designed and handcrafted in Brooklyn, New York. Drawing inspiration from lines, forms and structures — both man-made and natural —Moratorium presents a unique perspective on simplified and timeless style. Dynamic and meticulously crafted silhouettes are the heart of the collection and create immediate distinction from other contemporary collections.
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Transcending season, trend or gender, each piece is designed and hand-finished by Lai Thomas in her workshop. Working within a design ethos founded on creativity and authenticity and only accepting the highest quality possible, Moratorium designs are perpetually refined throughout the creative process.
Founded in 2009 by designer Jeanette Lai Thomas, Moratorium has an ever-growing following of non- conformists around the world. Moratorium is a creator of precious metal jewelry designed and handcrafted in Brooklyn, New York. Drawing inspiration from lines, forms and structures — both man-made and natural — Moratorium presents a unique perspective on simplified and timeless style. Dynamic and meticulously crafted silhouettes are the heart of the collection and create immediate distinction from other contemporary collections. Transcending season, trend or gender, each piece is designed and hand-finished by Lai Thomas in her workshop. Working within a design ethos founded on creativity and authenticity and only accepting the highest quality possible, Moratorium designs are perpetually refined throughout the creative process. In a provocative expression of individuality, Moratorium works exclusively with precious metals and diamonds—a rare quality in contemporary jewelry today. At the center of the inaugural series is the androgynous Moratorium Cut Away Pyramid. Universally recognized as one of the strongest structures known to man, the pyramid is an object of strength, beauty and eternal fascination. Currently featuring in a single and triple Cut Away necklace, three styles of ring, two styles of earring, a pair of cufflinks and a bracelet; the Cut Away Pyramid is a simple yet unique expression of refinement and modern craftsmanship. In 2015, Moratorium furthers its experimentation with geometric shapes and deconstructed objects with three new concepts that disrupt and manipulate traditional forms and structures. The Moratorium Cocoon series draws inspiration from nature and the birth of the designer’s first child. Its multi-faceted structure is both powerful and emotional. The Moratorium Sabre series sees Lai Thomas explore new territory with a sweeping curved structure; while retaining the sharp, bold edges and cut away forms that are the trademark of her designs. The Cocoon collection and the Sabre Collection feature an array of necklaces, rings and earrings, chokers and cuffs crafted in New York from precious metals. Lai Thomas’ perpetual experimentation with the concept of luxury and timeless, coveted objects see the introduction of the exquisite Moratorium Fine Jewelry collection. Seductive creations that arrest the eye and the mind, Lai Thomas presents her threedimensional geometric creations in white gold and embellished with diamond pavé. At the Jewellery Historian, we are happy to showcase the Moratorium Fine Jewelry Collection, in white gold and set with black diamonds or grey diamonds.
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Photo courtesy of MORATORIUM © MORATORIUM
Jeanette Lai Thomas
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Photo courtesy of MORATORIUM © MORATORIUM
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Photo courtesy of MORATORIUM © MORATORIUM
COVER STORY
PA LMI ERO
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Photo courtesy of PALMIERO Š PALMIERO
PALM IE RO There are many beautiful sights created by the force of Nature: this year PALMIERO has captured the vivid colours and sinuous charm of the underwater world, the magic of water and life that moves inside it. Jewels that become unique masterpieces, works of art, along with more and more precious jewellery watches and refined accessories. New shapes, dimensions and colours are ready to fascinate "jewellery connoisseurs". At the Jewellery Historian, we are honored to showcase the latest Palmiero creations, creations of top quality and creativity, in this special anniversary issue.
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Palmiero Jewellery Design represents one of the most refined brand in the international jewellery panorama, witnessing top quality, creativity and authentically Made in Italy. Palmiero' s creations celebrate Nature, Art and Culture, they represent and recount them. Carlo Palmiero from over 35 years creates Limited Edition jewellery and watches that convey strong emotions to those who give them and to those who wear them, recognizable at first sight, created without fear of daring. This year at Basel World, Palmiero’s “Underwater World” was definitely one of the most seen and beloved collections. There are many beautiful sights created by the force of Nature: this year PALMIERO has captured the vivid colours and sinuous charm of the underwater world, the magic of water and life that moves inside it. Jewels that become unique masterpieces, works of art, along with more and more precious jewellery watches and refined accessories. New shapes, dimensions and colours are ready to fascinate "jewellery connoisseurs". The origin of a true love story Carlo Palmiero grew up in the 60’s in Valenza, a small town of Piedmont, a region in the nothern part of Italy. The city has always been famous for its goldsmith tradition. He was inevitably influenced by this art and had the opportunity to enter artisanal ateliers and work together with the greatest experts of the field. This is definitely the origin of a true love story, the one with the art of jewellery, which has lasted unchanged until today. The first jewels were realized in the small atelier opened in the 70’s, where objects characterized by small dimensions but already stong personality were created. Carlo Palmiero by bucking the trend and modifying the standards of classical jewellery, which in those years mostly reffered to solitaire, contrarié or “Ballerina” jewellery, important centers surrounded by diamonds, moved the attention from the center to the entire object, dilated the shapes and expanded the attention to the entire jewel surface. His rings, become 360° sculptures, including the shank, which is now protagonist and not only simple stand. In 1979, when Carlo Palmiero founded the company that bears his name. Carlo Palmiero’s creations are an alchemy of thoughts, suggestions, reflections and memories. The magic of nature
meets emotions, art, cultures and places in an endless creative conversation. The “Maître”, Carlo Palmiero, shapes and materializes this abstract inspiration. A sketch, a draft, an idea gradually become real, waiting for being given life by the goldsmith’s ability. Gold and precious stones become the canvas and colors he uses to create his own works of art. Color is definitely the protagonist of Palmiero’s jewellery. The rarest colored precious diamonds are combined with the best natural sapphires, creating unusual and fascinating combinations and shades. Intense topazes, brilliant rubellites and gorgeous rubies, become pure color that Palmiero uses to give life to his courageous ideas. In collaboration with this team of gemologists, Carlo Palmiero wisely combines chromatic tonalities in order to create unique and fascinating pavé shades, which have almost became synonymous of Palmiero Jewellery Design’s creations and let our imagination to run free. Palmiero jewellery is a synonym of exclusivity and unique jewellery. The Palmiero creations are the result of a unique savoir-faire and definitely amazing. Nowadays, Carlo Palmiero, together with his team, conceives his fantastic and fascinating creations in the modern laboratory-atelier inaugurated in Valenza in 2007. The high technology of the laboratory makes it one of the forefront companies in the jewel manufacture. At the same time, it remains a large artisanal laboratory, where manual skill is exalted and expressed through the ability of highly qualified goldsmiths and stone-setters. Thanks to them the brand appears in the most prestigious and select boutiques of the world. Palmiero’s creations are haute couture jewels that communicate through the language of sculpture and the vocabulary commonly used by artists, who shape the material to give it a soul. The diamond pavé and the natural stones become the protagonists, a real raison d’être. They are conceived in intense and exuberant tonalities and “Arlecchino” or shaded effects, creating splendid optical illusions. Neither the gold escapes the virtuosities of the creator, who drapes it, curves it, undulates it, “domesticates” it to his inspiration by crossing the evanescent borders between craft and art.
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Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO
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Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO
PALMIERO Jewellery Design shows top quality and creativity, authentically haute de gamme and authentically Made in Italy. “UNDERWATER WORLD” In these chaotic times, we allow ourselves only for a little the luxur y of observing the magnificence of Nature. We are tormented by negative news and events, so negative that they preclude us the joy of being spectators of the beauty that has been in the world all along and still continues to appear. We should cut ourselves a moment from everyday life, which too many times is painful, in order to rediscover the beauty around us and get used to search for such beauty even for a few instants in our day. This will allow us to fill a tank of pure energy where drawing the strength to face the most difficult times of our existence. There are many beautiful sights originated by the force of Nature. PALMIERO, always attentive to the beauty of nature, pays homage to it through jewels. Today, he presents the theme of the Underwater World, which combines the magic of water and life that moves inside it. He has captured the vivid colours and sinuous charm of the animals that inhabit this Underwater World. Seas, oceans and rivers teem with fantastic life, a universe of shapes and unexpected colours. PALMIERO represents precious tropical fishes with shapes and curves distorted by the movement of water, in the act of greeting you. And then Sea Stars, Nudibranchs, Polyps... Waves are shaped by the wind that lifts the water and creates massive, shimmering and sparkling arches. A real magic for the eyes.
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Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO
PESCI
 they flutter in the water sparkling... Lone or in herds, they inhabit the waters of our planet. 
 Mysterious and increasingly rare, they swim by moving their majestic tails. Illuminated by the sun or with their own light, they turn and hypnotise us. Bright colours attract us to their Underwater World, which has captured our imagination.
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Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO
OCTO total embrace... Champion in camouflage, intelligent and intuitive. Its tireless tentacles move sinuously. How many arms do we need to demonstrate Love: Might be 8?
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Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO
STELLA fallen from sky... In popular imagination, we believe it fell from the sky. 
 It is a charming protagonist of the deep sea. Apparently fragile, it hides the wonderful ability to regenerate.
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Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO
NUDUS soft and sinuous... Gaudy liveries and irregular shapes have caught our attention. Small jewels from the sea that release strong emotions: the nudibranchs. Unique specimens, they dance almost unknown between rocks and corals and are popular as “harlequins of the sea�. Apparently naked, they know how to gain respect.
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Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO
REEF magical barriers... Small towns originated by Nature are home for sea animals and plants almost magical. Charmed, we take a break to observe the reef, which is full of enviable details and richness. Complicated architectures that change over time and generate incomparable emotions.
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Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO
ONDE sensual rhythm... They break foamy and silent at times. Some other times they leave the sign and then disappear in the waters. “Words of sea�, loud and sweet at the same time, comparable to our thoughts and memories that emerge rhythmically in our lives.
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Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO
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“THE LAND AND OUR IMAGINATION”
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PAVONI Emperor in word and appearance... It is symbol of royalty, nobility and beauty. One of the most beautiful performance of Nature, once again portrayed by Carlo Palmiero in this unique and equally elegant collection, a worthy tribute to a true “emperor� of the animal kingdom.
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Photo courtesy of PALMIERO © PALMIERO
INTERVIEW 5
UNTITLED
MATHON
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M ATH ON PARIS
A favored designer of great Parisian jewelers since the 1930’s, the Mathon family made its place in the history of jewelry. Attached to artistic values, Mathon Paris gives an atypical and colorful collection. The skilled hands of his craftsmen give each piece the spark of life, as well as a unique twinkle. Loyal to the artisanal traditions of French jewelry, Mathon is committed to ethical practices, as signified by the “Joaillerie de France” hallmark, which also certifies the French manufacturing.
Nature is the principal inspiration for Mathon’s fabulous creations which are all labeled, "Joaillerie de France," a seal that guarantees the products are French-made.
Mathon Paris workshop was founded in 1931 by Camille Bournadet next to the Palais Royal in Paris. But Roger Mathon, an eclectic artist and painter, who took over after his uncle, who actually contributed to the creative development of the house, increasing the high jewelry creations for “la Place Vendôme”.
MATHON PARIS jewellery pieces embody a genuine passion for beauty and excellence. Jewels are created to tell the stories of dreams through an unmistakable style.
His love for jewelry quickly passed to Roger’s children, Catherine, Frédéric and Pascal, who gave Mathon an international dimension to the house in the 1980s. Today, Aude has entered the picture, representing the fourth generation.
Jewels are crafted in a workshop that comes alive to the bustling sounds of rattling tweezers, the filing of metal, and the crackle of gold melting in the crucible. The creations that come out of this workshop are triumphs of gold and colored stones set exclusively by hand.
The commitment to the preservation of the French “savoirfaire” is a great pride for a family that is devoted to defining a personal aesthetic unaffected by the flow of time. In this issue, we meet Frédéric Mathon, CEO of the company and talk with him about the history and tradition of Mathon, about the jewellery industry and many more. We also meet the creative director, Frédéric Mané, the head designer of Mathon.
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Photo courtesy of MATHON © MATHON
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FR É DÉ R IC M AT HO N Frédéric MATHON is one of the rare French CEO who is leading company and workshop where jewels have always been producing in a pure French traditional way.
learn from renowned craftsmen and masters of French fine jewellery. Frédéric MATHON’s mind is open and without borders.
The CEO – Jeweller likes to work in a family atmosphere in his atelier located in the heart of Paris. This CEO does not take himself seriously, he is absolutely capable to take jewellery tools when circumstances require it. This Human CEO, who can replace any employee in the company was born in jewellery industry. He was born on April 18th 1955 in Paris and he grew up in that Parisian district of Palais Royal, district of small ateliers and jewellery shops. Since his early childhood he was predestined to follow his father’s and his uncle’s way who both of them were painters and jewellery designers and established the workshop in the early Thirties. After he has graduated from High School of Commerce in 1976, Frederic MATHON joined family workshop bringing young and dynamic breath to the company. Nevertheless, this visionary CEO looks further.
In 1997 he is appointed CEO of ROGER MATHON SA and is asked to become President of the French Export Commission (CPDHBJO) and represents the Association of French Jewellers abroad. He organises in collaboration with this Association many International Exhibitions and Promotions and promotes and supports the French jewellery manufacturing and its know-how. Today the most important thing that matter for this ambitious CEO is promoting and working for the “French High Jewellery Label” which he launched in 2006. The real guarantee of “Made by Hande & Made in France” this new Label has only one goal: To promote the excellence of the French fine jewellery and to make known this ancestral trade.
He wants to go further and to break the limits of a simple jeweller and he puts all his passion and his time at the service of this noble trade – French traditional jewellery manufacturing.
This dynamic CEO is more than company’s President. He is soul and body of the company. He works closely with Design Department, participates in development of new collections and supervises all levels of production process from the drawings to the final jewel on customer’s finger.
His generosity and his devotion to jewellery trade brought him in 1992 Presidency of the French Association “Joailliers – Fabricants” which is still honoured President.
Even if his passion for jewellery is immense his curiosity and the interest in other people makes him much more rich.
He represents the Association of French Jewellers to different political organisations and is their privileged spokesperson at the French government. But, his passion for pure craftsmanship bring him to the prestigious Parisian School “Ecole de Bijouterie – Joaillerie de Paris” where he supports young and gifted future jewellers.
He is generous husband and kind and attentive father of his 2 children: a 24 year old daughter and 19 year old son. Besides all his activities this excellent golf player has enough time to challange French or foreign golf competitors at many international competitions.
In 1994 he became President of that school and from that period every year the most gifted students have a possibility to start their training period in MATHON PARIS’ workshop and
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Photography by YOAANN L’HOSTELLIER. Photo courtesy of MATHON PARIS © MATHON
Frédéric Mathon
When he took over the atelier at the beginning of the seventies, he proposed very exciting creations to Mr Boucheron, Mr Arpels, Mr Maubousin or Mr Fred Samuel.
Frédéric Mathon, tell us more about MATHON and it’s history Our Atelier was founded in 1931 by Camille Bournadet - a relative of my father. My father was a genius in creation, found of art and painting. When he took over the atelier at the beginning of the seventies, he proposed very exciting creations to Mr Boucheron, Mr Arpels, Mr Maubousin or Mr Fred Samuel… The success came rapidly. During the 80s, I developed the Mathon collection whose roots are still there. Today the process of creation with the major global brand has changed but we still supply some of them with very strong links. Mathon is a family business. Do you believe that this contributed to it success ? There two positive arguments. Firstly: shareholders being of the family, we know to be patient when there are bad times to pass. Secondly: with a family management , everyone gets much more involved in the company's success. But let’s return to the roots. How did you decided to get in the jewelry industry? When I completed my studies in an international business school my father asked me to come into the company. My conditions was that I could go abroad to develop business (my father was very “Place Vendôme” minded), he accepted, afterwards I learnt step by step all components of this great job: technical aspects, gemology and participating with my father and sister Catherine to creation. In the meantime, I visited new customers all over the world. It was 30 years ago.
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Which is the key philosophy of MATHON ? We have never sought to deceive our customers by producing elsewhere to offer a better price to the market. If we had done that, we would have no longer a workshop. Clearness is very important for us. Which are the main activities of MATHON ? Our activity is divided between subcontracting for major international brands and offering our collection to distributors mainly in Japan, China and in the United States. What differentiates MATHON from others ? We are one of the very few Parisian workshop having our own design studio in-house.
Photo courtesy of MATHON © MATHON
The creation can move easily, but the Parisian production exists only thanks to his workers as we train for years. The whole world wants to make in Paris because they want the “French Touch”
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Label Joaillerie de France meets the need for transparency requested by the French manufacturers. The hallmark stamped to the jewelry guarantees that they are mounted set and polished in France. Today is the only guarantee of origin of manufacture.
For years you have been president of “Joailliers-Fabricants” and of the “ Ecole de Bijouterie-Joaillerie de Paris” and the “CPDHBJO”.Paris, was for years the capital of joaillerie but the latest years we see billionaires and many brands to “move” to London. Do you believe that we have a movement like it happened in the past with fashion or arts ? If there are such movements, it's for financial reasons. The creation can move easily, but the Parisian production exists only thanks to his workers as we train for years. The whole world wants to make in Paris because they want the “French Touch”. What in your opinion is the difference between Parisian brands and brands located in other cities ? The “French Touch” and taste. Tell us about the “French High Jewellery Label”. Label Joaillerie de France meets the need for transparency requested by the French manufacturers. The hallmark stamped to the jewelry guarantees that they are mounted set and polished in France. Today is the only guarantee of origin of manufacture. In many countries, jewellery is hand-made, but they do not have the prestige of Paris. What do you believe makes French jewellery so important ? The most beautiful jewels are manufactured in Paris, because the Parisians workshops are able, thanks to their know-how to access to the creativity and extreme quality requirements of designers or brands. Do you believe that the current financial crisis affects quality ? There are two worlds that have nothing to see with each other. The premium jewelery that meets marketing and mass production requirements, the price is essential, quality and origin of manufacture are not so important. On the contrary, the luxury jewellery displays a high price. High manufacture is involved , the most skilled workforce and the highest quality stones are required, French manufacturers are the best in this field. I think that crisis has opened a gap between this to worlds, Europe will no longer act on access jewellery production. Do you believe that with the current financial situation there is a place for young designers and small independent brands ? This profession will always need genius creators, if only to serve the major brands. I think it is much more complicated today than 30 years to launch its own brand. However I am fairly optimistic: in the near future some of the most exclusive clientele require unique pieces and want to understand how and by whom their jewelry is made. We have seen some historical brands to be sold and loose their prestige or even disappear. Do you believe that this will continue or it will stop ? The luxury world has no room for error, brands have disappeared because they were poorly managed and thought they could make money only with their famous name.
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In France, we are lucky to have the big luxury groups that invest heavily in savoir faire, therefore in the future. Most prestigious brands belong nowadays to huge groups. Do you believe that we can still keep this historical brands without being in a group ?
Thirty years ago “les Maisons de la Place Vendôme” were know by the wealthy elite and lived very well, they become brands that are making significant advertising effort to be known by everybody.
Really, the brand concept distorts our perception. Thirty years ago “les Maisons de la Place Vendôme” were know by the wealthy elite and lived very well, they become brands that are making significant advertising effort to be known by everybody, and open stores in airports as in the four corners of the planet, to sell high mark up products. I think that historical or new jewellers, do not call them “brands”, will work for these elites seeking jewelry specially created for them.Here also appears a dichotomy. You are a successful businessman who keeps a very low profile. Why you chose to keep this low profile ? Simply because it is my nature. I cannot stand arrogance.
Photo courtesy of MATHON © MATHON
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Photo courtesy of MATHON © MATHON
Beside your activities you are also an excellent golf player. How do you balance between the demands of your job and a second-generation interest in a life of advanced pleasure ? Golf requires high control both physically and mentally, during a competition you must manage the stress and find energy very deeply in yourself. It is a good lesson for management but also for life. If you had to pick one bit of advice for the young entrepreneurs of today, what would that be and why? Always look for excellence in everything and be different: don’t follow others. Quality is the most important matter in luxury. Never deliver a jewel which you are not proud of. Where do you see MATHON in 20 years Mathon will be more than 100 years old, managed by my daughter Aude, who belongs to the 4th generation of Mathon Jewelers. Still a reference in matters of fine jewelry, Our workshops displayed on 4 floors of our historical building located closed to the “Palais Royal” in Paris, one floor dedicated to young craftsmen training: and extreme quality required young craftsmen.
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Photo courtesy of MATHON © MATHON
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F RÉ D É RIC M AN É
Frédéric Mané was born in south France, in Perpignan, in 1982. He spent his childhood near Collioure, the famous city of painters. He first started his artistic career in 2000, when he studied product design in Paris. He found his first experiences in designing accessories and precious objects. In 2005, he got a master degree in luxury product design.,this time at the ESDI Creapole design school in Paris. His love for jewellery design, pushed him to take classes on the art of jewellery design at the world famous school BJO. Ecole du Louvre. Working his different design studios in Paris, from Nina Ricci, to Arthus Bertrand jewellery and Swarovski, he had the unique opportunity to work on different collections, including perfume’s bottles and jewellery. After this creative trip, he joined a design agency, creating precious items for Montblanc. He also collaborated to elaborate different luxury life-style projects for Lancel, and accessories for italian designer Roberto Cavalli. Since 2009, he is the head designer for Mathon’s collection and designs as well all special orders, produced by Mathon. His sources of inspiration are arts and famous muses of history. Antique legends meet nature in motion and dragonfly wings the dewdrop of leaves. We met Frédéric Mané in Paris, for this exclusive interview, that we are honored to publish in this special anniversary issue.
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80 Photo courtesy of MATHON © MATHON
Photography by YOAANN L’HOSTELLIER. Photo courtesy of MATHON PARIS © MATHON
Frédéric Mané
I learnt the real process of jewelry design in the Mathon workshop in Paris, with the Mathon family, I discovered the true rules of art of French jewelry, inherited in 1931 by the Mathon family, and how these true rules are always being renewed.
Frédéric Mané, tell us about yourself, including what you do and how you got here. Six years ago, i was taking a jewelry drawing lesson when my collaboration with this family company started. Before I used to work as a designer for different design studios in Paris, I had the opportunity to work on more types of projects including perfume bottles and luxury goods for French and Japanese luxury groups. Since 2009 I have been the main designer for Mathon Paris and in charge of designing their collection, including the specials orders, I’m used to working with the high jewelry workshop in the same building all the time. How did you decided to be a jewellery designer ? I started designing jewelry in my own design studio, I made big paintings with mesmerizing characters like Wise men or mystics queens with huge and extravagant jewels on their royal suits. Afterwards I learnt the real process of jewelry design in the Mathon workshop in Paris, with the Mathon family, I discovered the true rules of art of French jewelry, inherited in 1931 by the Mathon family, and how these true rules are always being renewed. What was the motivation / inspiration for your very first collection? My first project, 6 years ago, for Mathon Paris was inspired by the sea’s depth and its treasure… this theme has really developed in the Mathon Paris collection. One of the most original pieces in this collection is the Nausicaa ring, the center stone is even cut like a shell ! The collection is inspired by Homer’s Odyssey, each piece symbolizes a dif-
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ferent goddess met by Ulysses in his mesmerizing travels ! Also I’m catalan and that’s why those Mediterranean legends have always been in my imagination, since my childhood… Where do you get your inspiration? My sources of inspiration are the arts and the famous muses in history, the ancien legends, but what influences me the most in my his creations is observing nature in motion, such as the dewdrop on leaves, the beating of a dragonfly’s wings, the sudden blooming of a flower, or the flight of a bird; the final drawing translates these poetic moments into pure lines and synthesizes these movements of life into a fresh color panel. Which is the artistic or historical period you consider a great source of inspiration. I like discovering old and new creations in the classic museums and the contemporary arts galleries.
Photo courtesy of MATHON © MATHON
One of the most original pieces in this collection is the Nausicaa ring, the center stone is even cut like a shell ! The collection is inspired by Homer’s Odyssey.
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Photo courtesy of MATHON © MATHON
The commitment to the preservation of the French “savoir-faire” is a great pride for this family who is devoted to defining a personal aesthetic unaffected by the flow of time.
Are there any persons in art, fashion, architecture and design that inspire you with their work? I’m really inspired by different artists like Gaudi and Dali, sometimes Jeef koons or architects such as Zahaa Hadid and Santiago Calatrava. What according to you contributed to your success? Tell us about your design style. What makes your collections unique in the industry? All our jewels are designed and made in our Parisian workshop. Manufactured according to the renowned traditions of French jewellery, our jewels are subjected to rigorous controls during the production process and extreme care is taken though out their completion. Nature in motion is the principal inspiration for Mathon’s fabulous creations which are all labeled, "Joaillerie de France," a seal that guarantees the products are French-made. Jewels are crafted in a workshop that comes alive with the bustling sounds of rattling tweezers, the filing of metal, and the crackle of gold melting in the crucible. The creations that come out of this workshop are triumphs of gold and colored stones set exclusively by hand. MATHON PARIS jewelry pieces embody a genuine passion for beauty and excellence. Jewels are created to tell the stories of dreams through an unmistakable style.The commitment to the preservation of the French “savoir-faire” is a great pride for this family who is devoted to defining a personal aesthetic unaffected by the flow of time. The company is also RJC certified. ( Responsible jewellery council )
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High jewelry is a collective work, the final piece is the perfect combination of different skills and talents !
Which is your favorite author ( and / or book ) ? Definitely Beaudelaire Which are your favorite materials? Which materials and techniques your favor? I ‘m truly inspired by gold, precious stones, enamels, ceramic, crystal. Which material you believe that you will never stop using in your collections? Titanium, this material offers us an original color panel ! What do you like most about being a jewelry designer? High jewelry is a collective work, the final piece is the perfect combination of different skills and talents ! The most valuable lesson you have learned until today? Trust in your fate and learn from your previous mistakes How do you define luxury? In jewelry : Taking the time to do things well, having the freedom of expression and inspiration, being able to choose beautiful stones that are rare. What is your favorite piece you’ve ever created – and what made it so special? One of my favorite pieces is the Nénuphar ring : This new range is inspired by the water lily, characterized by its broad, flat, rounded leaves and its delicate flowers that can be white, yellow, purplish or reddish. As a ring, the leaves are in white gold and the flower opens into pink tourmaline petals. ( photo in next page ) Your heroes in real life? My Ancestors ! Do you think that there is a relation between fashion and jewellery design? Traditionally, the seasonal trends in fashion work against the sustainability of jewelry. Of course there are trends in jewelry but personally I prefer the personal expression of a jewelry artist who is not swayed too heavily by other trends; but, instead, who can tell the story of their client. Which fashion designers inspire you with their work? Christian Lacroix, Stephan Rolland with his very elegant dresses, or even Gareth Pugh, a transgressive fashion designer! What kind of person wears your jewelry? Romantics, dreamers with discreet tastes, sensitive types.
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Are men more open-minded about wearing jewellery than they used to be? Do you believe that a man should wear jewellery ? History has shown us how mens fashion has changed from kings and maharadjas to the actual dandies who wore amazing pieces. Personally , I’m not used to wearing jewelry and I prefer to design new models for women who inspire me. Which piece of jewellery every person should wear ? Jewels that tell the owner's stories! What’s it like to see someone on the street wearing one of your creations? Jewels pieces from Mathon, made in the French rules of art, are really appreciated by the connoisseurs and i don’t think they are common in the street… ( He smiles ) Could you please tell us about your latest collection? the Galapagos ring, a strong style with unusual stones, the stone is even cut like a tortoise carapace ! The imposing carapace typical of a Galapagos tortoise is set with sugar loaf stones, which are the main argument of this new line. Transparency and the colour of the stones, going from sea-green to mint tints, evokes the shores of the mythical archipelago. Tourmalines and peridots are specially cut on the jewels by the lapidaries of IdarOberstain, in order to create the tabular shapes of the animal’s scales. The eyes are made from bright green emeralds which are in harmony with the carapace of the animal. This special cut gives beautiful volume to the animal design. A line of scallop-setted diamonds wraps around the fine stones to underline their glare.
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“Appreciate the moment like it is a unique grace given by fate” written by my grand father the catalan poet , Henri Segonne.
Which is the destination that you find the most inspiring? In the Thailand Sea, there is Kohtao island a wild landscape surrounded by a green lagoon where fishermen live. A lost but preserved paradise Which is your favorite destination for summer holidays and which is your favorite for winter ? The county of Roussillon is my hometown, a typical and traditional city on the border of the Mediterranean sea. Antique castles in front of the sea, wild coast, sweet sun, old legends and a strong culture characterize this county. Your favorite capital ? Paris, but Barcelona as a city, has a special place in my heart. Your favorite addresses? The best pastries in Paris come from Pierre Hermé, and one of the best star restaurants in Paris is Yamtcha ! And Jeffrey’s cocktail bar for their delicious cocktails! What we should expect from you in the future? New amazing projects and more global partners. Could you tell us about your upcoming projects? I’m working on a new concept in jewelry that is really fascinating. It includes a cameo stone with an animated screen inside. Your favorite motto? “Appreciate the moment like it is a unique grace given by fate” written by my grand father the catalan poet , Henri Segonne. Which is your advice to young and aspiring jewellery designers? It is a true challenge to convert your passion into a job, but you have to trust in your creative intuition and work a lot, it’s important to know the history of jewelry, including the traditional and new techniques, and to understand that jewelry is really a collective work!
At the Jewellery Historian, we are grateful to Mr. Frédéric Mathon and Mr.Frédéric Mané, for meeting us and sharing with all our readers their universe. We are grateful and thankful to the Maison Mathon for all photos that illustrate the interviews, for the privileged access to unique archives, historical and important drawings, for allowing us to visit their ateliers and see how their amazing jewellery pieces are born and created, that we will showcase soon in a future issue.
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Photo courtesy of MATHON © MATHON
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A NEW MUST
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YANNIS SERGA KIS
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Photo courtesy of MARKIN Š MARKIN
YAN N IS SE RGA KIS A team of skilled Greek craftsmen works closely with the very best gemologists to bring to life the designs of Yannis Sergakis. Inspiration is drawn from literally everywhere: architecture, fabrics, people, senses, silhouettes, feelings. Each transformed into wearable statement pieces with a timeless quality and beauty. Yannis Sergakis works exclusively with gold - the everlasting guarantee of value - and diamonds - the most precious of stones. Pure, simple and bright. Powerful and dazzling. Their precious qualities recognized since time immemorial.
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Photo courtesy of YANNIS SERGAKIS © YANNIS SERGAKIS
Yannis Sergakis works exclusively with gold the everlasting guarantee of value and diamonds - the most precious of stones. Pure, simple and bright. Powerful and dazzling. Their precious qualities recognized since time immemorial.
Yannis Sergakis is the descendant of a well-established family of Greek diamond traders. He was drawn into the alluring world of precious stones while still a child, when he spent hours observing his uncles in their showroom. Soon, Yannis began collecting and trading jewels. Much later, he realized that his true passion was not collecting but creating jewellery. Not a conventional route, but one that indicates his deep love and appreciation for the fine art of jewellery. After studying gemology and design at the Gemological Institute of America, Yannis Sergakis worked as a trader alongside his family until 2004, when he set up his own business. More interested in creating exquisite jewels than signing them, he started collaborating with renowned jewellery houses in Greece and abroad. Over thirty collections later, with the maturity of a designer who has spent a decade honing his craft and the assertiveness of someone whose sought after pieces sell at the world’s most exclusive boutiques, Yannis Sergakis has taken the most important step yet – creating his own signature line. A team of skilled Greek craftsmen works closely with the very best gemologists to bring to life the designs of Yannis Sergakis. Inspiration is drawn from literally everywhere: architecture, fabrics, people, senses, silhouettes, feelings. Each transfor med into wearable statement pieces with a timeless quality and beauty. Yannis Sergakis works exclusively with gold - the everlasting guarantee of value - and diamonds - the most precious of stones. Pure, simple and bright. Powerful and dazzling. Their precious qualities recognized since time immemorial. A legacy that inspires Yannis Sergakis and his team to keep reinterpreting these two eternal symbols in new ways that intrigue and attract. COMMITMENT is the debut collection by Greek jeweller, Yannis Sergakis. How many ways to describe commitment; one’s attachment to the other, the desire to be tied together. This is the starting point of the COMMITMENT collection. The way past generations of Greek jewellery makers used to tie precious stones together; the way those who love intensely are intertwined. A meaningful bond - sweet but not cloying, sharp yet not painful. An elegant aggression.
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Photo courtesy of YANNIS SERGAKIS © YANNIS SERGAKIS
Two lines of fine jewellery made exclusively from gold and diamonds. CHARNIÈRES & CROCHETS. Each line a different level of commitment, a different tying knot. Grace, intimacy, lust. Timeless pieces of discreet elegance; an elegance of ancient Greek origin that is identifiable, yet not imposing. The collection starts with the CHARNIÈRES. An elegant hinge used by jewellers in centuries past to tie precious metals and stones together. A rich heritage that is always relevant, with a contemporary twist. Authentic, valuable pieces reminiscent of the way jewels were appreciated in earlier times. The elegance of the first line is still evident, yet with an aggressive almost erotic take. Here the hinge takes on a different form - angular, edgier, sharper but always chic. It becomes a hook that represents an adult, playful game of seduction. This is CROCHETS. The collection represents purity, uses simple lines, but with a powerful twist. It is characterized by symmetry, clarity and a sense of sophistication. The lines are designed for women who co-exist with jewellery in harmony, without hyperbole. Inspiration was driven by diverse elements, such as architecture, people, senses, silhouettes, the full-of-light, vibrant city of Athens and the way it joins past and present, the combination of grace and sensuality that a woman can deliver. Arianne Labed, was chosen as the brand’s model, as she passes across this feeling of a woman that is sexual, erotic and at the same time possesses finesse. The photography portraying the collection wants to create the atmosphere surrounding the brand, in a theatrical manner. That is why the products are not photographed at close range, showing just an ear, a hand or a neck. The collection is shown in an environment representing the sophisticated, urban chic feeling of the city that we wish to associate the brand with. At the Jewellery Historian we felt in love with the creations and work of Yannis Sergakis immediately when we first saw them in his Athenian boutique. Their minimal, but rich in meanings and cultural heritage lines, the elegance created by the combination of the gold with diamonds in a minimal discreet elegance, the elegance of ancient Greek origin that is identifiable, yet not imposing, are synonym to purity as only few designers can reach. By letting the gold and the diamonds to speak for his amazing creations and themselves, rather that surrounding them with distractions, he captures the purity of the Greek sun and beauty, reinterprets the rich Greek cultural heritage by keeping the essential of it, it’s purity.
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Photo courtesy of YANNIS SERGAKIS © YANNIS SERGAKIS
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ESTHĂˆTE
Une personne qui considère l'art comme une valeur essentielle
Photo courtesy of FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY © FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY
E STH È T E
An amazing bracelet by Farah Khan Fine Jewellery
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NEW COLLECTION
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L E Y L A ABDOLL AH I
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI © LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
L EY L A A BDO L L AHI Bold, beautiful and with a touch of darkness, Leyla Abdollahi’s jewellery successfully demands your attention.The seductive pieces have a unique edge that appeals to confident sophisticated women who are drawn to strikingly dramatic jewellery with a story to tell. At the Jewellery Historian, we are honored to showcase in avant-première the new collections “Passion” & “Radiant” of one of the most talented jewellery designers of her generation.
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI © LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
The seductive pieces have a unique edge that appeals to confident sophisticated women who are drawn to strikingly dramatic jewellery with a story to tell.
“My jewellery reflects emotions, passions, and desire with a burst of creativity. I start with a concept that then blossoms into an elegant ornament” Bold, beautiful and with a touch of darkness, Leyla Abdollahi’s jewellery successfully demands your attention. The seductive pieces have a unique edge that appeals to confident sophisticated women who are drawn to strikingly dramatic jewellery with a story to tell. Born and raised with both Eastern and Western influences, Leyla Abdollahi who has a fine arts background successfully honed her natural ability in jewellery design when she studied for her BA in Jewellery Design at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design. In 2011, Leyla Abdollahi was launched- “I do not simply create jewellery, I create pieces for collectors who want something beautiful to enjoy and treasure”. Leyla Abdollahi is a label that is unafraid to challenge conventions, explore new materials and push boundaries. Her handcrafted jewellery provokes the kind of visual pleasure that has caught the attention of many industry insiders and has led to collaborations. Leyla Abdollahi is currently acclaiming a stance as one of Britain's hottest new fine jewellers.
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Leyla’s success has been highlighted within the industry with her being nominated for Jewellery Designer of the Year at the UK Jewellery Awards 2012. Leyla’s creations continue to convey an everlasting enchanting artistic experience. Expanding internationally, particularly in the Middle East, Asia and the United States, Leyla Abdollahi will continue to create fine jewellery that will deliver an artistic experience that is everlasting. In this issue, we are proud to showcase in avant-première the two new collections of Leyla Abdollahi, the “Passion collection” and the “Radiant collection”.
Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI © LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
Leyla’s creations continue to convey an everlasting enchanting artistic experience.
Ring in 18k white and rose gold, with blue moon stone, blue sapphire, white diamond, ruby.
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI Š LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
A combination of wonderfully individual designs using vibrant colourful gemstones.
The Passion Collection The Passion Collection, with nature at its heart, offers a combination of wonderfully individual designs using vibrant colourful gemstones. Jewells are gracefully designed with curvaceous flowing lines and forms. What makes the collection more desirable is the versatility and adaptability of the pieces, thus adding another element to the design excellence, finished with elegance and sophistication that fine jewellery has to bear. A playful collection with seductive forms using vibrant colour combinations, but with a nod to gothic influences with dark and dangerous undertones, this will have an instant appeal amongst those that appreciate jewellery design as an art form.
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI © LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI Š LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
Ring in 18k white and rose gold, with blue moon stone, blue sapphire, white diamond, ruby.
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI Š LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
Earrings in 18k white and rose gold, with blue moon stone, blue sapphire, white diamond, ruby and rhodolite.
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI Š LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
Necklace in 18k white and rose gold, with blue moon stone, blue sapphire, white diamond, ruby.
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI © LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI Š LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
The collection is inspired by the beautiful forms, shapes and colours that can be seen through a kaleidoscope
The Radiant collection The Radiant Collection is inspired by the beautiful forms, shapes and colours that can be seen through a kaleidoscope. The magic of random symmetrical patterns and their infinite colour combinations, changing with each and every turn of the tube, is almost hypnotic. These images of patterns and intense colour variations are amongst some of my most favorite sources of inspiration, which always leave me in awe and amazement. The playfulness of forms and colours merging with and complimenting each other is a beautiful sight to behold, and one that has been at the core of this collection. The use of coloured stones, their shapes and cuts, and how light reflects and interacts with the jewellery is what makes this collection so special.
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI © LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
Leyla Abdollahi
Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI Š LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
Necklace in 18k Rose Gold, with Rhodolite, Tourmaline, Amethyst.
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI © LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI © LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
Ring in 18k Rose Gold, with Rhodolite, Rose quartz, Ruby, Diamond.
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI © LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI Š LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
Earrings in18k Rose Gold, with Rhodolite, Tourmaline, Diamonds.
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI Š LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
Ring in 18k Rose Gold, with Rhodolite & Tourmaline
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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI © LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI © LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
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BREATHTAKING GEMS
By Eva Kountouraki
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.
TURQUOISE
Hedge and Row earrings of turquoise and diamonds in platinum and 18 karat gold by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Price available upon request
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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. © Tiffany & Co.
[Photo in Public domain]
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
TURQUOISE It may lack the transparency and sparkle of the transparent gemstones, but Turquoise has nothing to envy from any other gem. Its rich colour, its lengthy history, its relation with the humans throughout the world and its gentle feel when touched or worn against the skin, make people desire it. The name Turquoise, that translates as “Turkish stone”, derives from the fact that the gem was brought in Europe by Levantine traders, through Anatolia, reaching the Mediterranean region by passing across the areas of Turkey. The same name is used to describe its easily recognizable bluegreen characteristic colour.
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The oldest mention of turquoise comes from ancient Egypt where burial masks, funerary objects and other ornaments carved out of this gem that date back to 3000 BC have been found; for example, we encounter turquoise in the inlays of the important golden death mask of Tutankhamun. The great goddess Hathor of ancient Egypt was also called the “Mistress of Turquoise” and was the protector of the turquoise miners, the patron of the mines and consequently of the whole Sinai peninsula. In ancient Persia, turquoise was used as a protective talisman, a belief that has been transmitted throughout the years so that turquoise is still used today as protection against the evil eye in many markets of the world. The thirteen century Persian Scholar Al-Qazwini
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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.
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Tiffany pear-shape turquoise and black onyx earrings with diamonds in platinum. Left page : Leaves necklace of turquoise and diamonds in platinum and 18 karat gold by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Price available upon request
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The oldest mention of turquoise comes from ancient Egypt where burial masks, funerary objects and other ornaments carved out of this gem that date back to 3000 BC have been found; for example, we encounter turquoise in the inlays of the important golden death mask of Tutankhamun.
has written: “The hands that wear a turquoise and seals with it will never see poverty”. The name that the ancient Persians used for turquoise was “pirouzeh” that means victory. Turquoise was also a particularly favoured material by Mixtec and Aztec civilizations and was often used by the artists as a mosaic material to cover statues and masks dedicated to the gods. A famous artifact, that dates back to the Aztec art, is a human skull that is decorated with turquoise chips, and believed to represent the god Tezcatlipoca, one of the a creator gods and perhaps the most important deity in the Aztec pantheon. Only by hearing the word turquoise a vivid sky blue color comes to mind, but the actual gemstone’s hues may vary from a blue to a green-blue down to a vivid yellowish green. Although the blue colour may be highly valued, the international market puts a great value to the other hues as well. In fact, finely textured and evenly colored green turquoise may fetch quite high prices. The difference in the possible hues depends on the presence, quantity and chemical state of chromophore chemical elements such as copper and iron. Also, because of the fact that the turquoise used for jewelry is a cryptocrystalline aggregate and not a single crystal gem, it tends to absorb contaminants from the environment which may cause its discoloration or staining. The iron that turquoise naturally contains may oxidize with time for various reasons, and result in the turquoise acquiring a greener hue. People often misunderstand this natural property of turquoise and misinterpret it as if there is “something wrong” with their gem. The turquoise that is generally accepted as being of the highest quality is the finely textured one that exhibits an evenly distributed, medium toned, intense blue colour, with no evident color mottling or matrix. This kind of turquoise is often sold as “Persian”, although it may not originate from Iran, because traditionally the highest qualities of turquoise were found in the Persian mines. Other market terms that are used to indicate different varieties –and not necessarily sourcesinclude the “Mexican” or “American” which is used to describe the lighter toned material, while the term “Egyptian” is commonly used for the greenish hues. Apart from the colour, turquoise is also classified based on its texture and the presence or absence and type of matrix. As mentioned before, being an aggregate means that the material is composed of many tightly grouped microscopic crystals. The smaller these crystals are and the more tightly they are bonded to each other, the finer the texture of the turquoise. This means that not only the material will be tougher and more resistant to blows, but it will take a higher polish and it will be less porous, so discoloration will be more difficult to
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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. © Tiffany & Co.
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Necklace from the Tiffany Blue Book 2015, The Art of the Sea
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Photo courtesy of NIKOS KOULIS © NIKOS KOULIS
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Only by hearing the word turquoise a vivid sky blue color comes to mind, but the actual gemstone’s hues may vary from a blue to a green-blue down to a vivid yellowish green. Although the blue colour may be highly valued, the international market puts a great value to the other hues as well. In fact, finely textured and evenly colored green turquoise may fetch quite high prices.
Photo in this page : Ear cuff in gold, with emeralds, diamond and turquoise by Nikos Koulis
happen. In fact, finely textured untreated turquoise has smooth surface and elegant waxy luster. Sometimes, turquoise may be scattered through its host rock in a way that cutting away all the rock would result in very small specimens. In these cases, the cutters fashion the turquoise so that parts of the rock are included in the finished gem. Matrix, or else, these portions of the host rock present on the polished gem, can affect turquoise’s value. The matrix we may find on natural turquoise can range from light brown to almost black, depending on the type of rock where the gem formed. Generally speaking, the market prefers turquoise without any matrix. However, if it is evenly distributed throughout the gem and there is a nice balance between the turquoise and the matrix, the material can still be desirable, as the delicate dark web-like patterns create an attractive contrast with the brightly colored gem. Since turquoise tends to absorb foreign contaminants that would eventually alter its appearance by darkening or discoloring it, people in the market try to protect it by applying colorless substances on it – simply wax or oils, or more sophisticated polymers- , so that its surface is “sealed”. The same treatment would also add to the luster of the gem and make it somewhat more durable as the protective substance would fill the tiny spaces between the aggregate’s microscopic crystals. This polymer-impregnated turquoise is known as “stabilized turquoise” in the market. Another misconception considering turquoise is a misleading term that is commonly used in the market, the so-called “reconstructed”
Price available upon request
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Photo courtesy of NIKOS KOULIS Š NIKOS KOULIS
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
A two fingers ring in gold, diamonds and turquoise by Nikos Koulis Price available upon request
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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Tiffany turquoise and onyx tassel pendant with diamonds in platinum Price available upon request
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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Jean Schlumberger bracelets in 18 karat gold and platinum (from left): Lapis lazuli and turquoise bracelet with diamonds, lapis lazuli bracelet with diamonds. Price available upon request
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Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
turquoise. Most of the times, the material sold as reconstructed or reconstituted turquoise contains no turquoise at all; it is just a mixture of powdered materials with blue dye, bonded together with resin or plastic. Although people may erroneously think that turquoise is a “semiprecious” material and that is does not have high value, the truth is very different. High quality natural turquoise is scarce and its supply is very limited, fact that leads to high value and thus high prices. The Nishapur district of Iran is still producing some of the world’s best turquoise. The southwest US, and particular the “Sleeping Beauty” Mine in Arizona is probably the top turquoise producer in terms of quantity, while top colour material comes mostly from the mines in Hubei Province of China. Gucci horsebit necklace in18kt white gold, diamonds and turquoise
Turquoise is a joyous gem that with its lively color makes us feel happy. In it, people have always seen the immensity of the bright skies combined with the colour of the sea as it sparkles with green and blue flashes under the sun. When Aquarius caused the great flood of the earth in order to punish the humankind for their misbehavior, Deucalion and his wife Pyrrha survived and were told they should repopulate the Earth. After asking for the oracle of Delphi about how to complete this task, they were told that the only way to do it was to walk on the land and throw the bones of their mother behind them. The way they interpreted this was that they should throw rocks along their path, as the rocks are the bones of mother Earth. Those stones were soaked in the flood and had turned into turquoise. As they tossed the turquoise stones over their shoulders, the new women and men of this Earth were created..
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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Tassels necklace of turquoise and diamonds in 18 karat gold and platinum by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Price available upon request
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Eva Kountouraki
Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field. She started her first collection of polished and rough gemstones at a very early age and realized that this would be her profession in the future. After studying gemology books in various languages, she attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to accredit those skills choosing the best gemological institute in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), for her studies. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all
Jewellery Historian
the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design. Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologists of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world. Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever accomplished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and precious stones. Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jewelry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and companies, advising and helping her clients to make successful purchases and investments in gemstones. She also organizes and teaches seminars for the training of gemstone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gempassionates. At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems.
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Photo courtesy of GUCCI Š GUCCI
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Gucci horsebit earrings in18kt white gold, diamonds and turquoise
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OUR FAVES
In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. In this issue we invite you to find the perfect jewellery for one of our favorite seasons, summer. - Address book at page 189 -
AS INC / SHUTTERSTOCK. COM
OUR FAVES
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KULMALA
LYDIA COURTEILLE
GUCCI
ETHO MARIA
ILIAS LALAOUNIS
CARRERA Y CARRERA
OUR FAVES
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NIKOS KOULIS
FARAH KHAN
TIFFANY & CO.
ZOLOTAS
BOUCHERON
OUR FAVES
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OUR FAVES
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MARLI
ETHO MARIA
INÉDIT
GORALSKA
YANNIS SERGAKIS
OUR FAVES
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GUCCI
KULMALA
OUR FAVES
ILIAS LALAOUNIS
OMI PRIVÉ
FARAH KHAN
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L’DEZEN
ADLER
MARLI
GORALSKA
CARLA AMORIM
OUR FAVES
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OUR FAVES
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NIKOS KOULIS
JACK VARTANIAN
ZOLOTAS
MARLI
LYDIA COURTEILLE
LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
OUR FAVES
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OUR FAVES
LETICIA LINTON
SUTRA
INÉDIT
SETHI COUTURE
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THEO FENNELL
AVAKIAN
ADLER
ZOLOTAS
BORGIONI
CHIMENTO
OUR FAVES
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OUR FAVES
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NIKOS KOULIS
TIFFANY & CO.
MARLI
LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
OUR FAVES
BOUCHERON
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ILIAS LALAOUNIS
OUR FAVES
MARLI
PASQUALE BRUNI
L’DEZEN
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MAURO FELTER
OUR FAVES
INÉDIT
ANTONINI
ZOLOTAS
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OUR FAVES
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JACK VARTANIAN
MOUSSON ATELIER MARLI
Jewellery Historian CARLA AMORIM
YANNIS SERGAKIS
MASSIMO IZZO
OUR FAVES
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KULMALA
MAURO FELTER
YEPREM
NIKOS KOULIS
ADLER
OUR FAVES
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PASQUALE BRUNI
MEGHNA
GUMUCHIAN
ELENA SYRAKA
SYLVIE CORBELIN
OUR FAVES
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SPOTLIGHT
G U C CI
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GUC CI
Photo courtesy of GUCCI Š GUCCI
Gucci jewelry presents Flora motif in a contemporary assortment of feminine designs
Gucci Jewelry is delighted to introduce a new fine jewelry collection inspired by the flora motif. Poetic, delicate and elegant, the line explores different styles featured in both the high jewelry masterpieces and the exquisite fine jewelry. All Gucci jewelry is handcrafted by highly skilled Italian goldsmiths and the high end jewelry collection is the epitome of impeccable craftsmanship. Luxury is defined by the choice of precious materials, the uniqueness of each design and the meticulous attention to detail. Gucci Jewelry offers Italian made designs that can be worn everyday and treasured forever.
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Gucci Jewelry is delighted to introduce a new fine jewelry collection inspired by the flora motif. Poetic, delicate and elegant, the line explores different styles featured in both the high jewelry masterpieces and the exquisite fine jewelry. Gucci Flora’s dainty flowers and butterflies are worked in novel materials and techniques, whilst other new motifs, such as a skull and flower, introduce a bold addition to the original design. The Gucci Flora collection includes highend masterpieces that are stunning in their detail, and which represent the utmost of Gucci’s jewelry artisanship. The signature item in the collection is a necklace in 18kt white and pink gold, closely set with an intricate array of flowers and butterflies, expertly wrought in 5.12 carats of diamonds with white enameling. The necklace lies close to the neck and is a sumptuous work of fine jewelry art. A matching snake ring fully set with diamonds, with sinuous open curves is adorned with a butterfly and Gucci’s iconic horsebit clasp. Those seeking an edgier interpretation of Gucci’s classic pattern will appreciate the skull pendant necklace and ring duo. Studded with 164 brilliant-cut diamonds and accented with sapphire eyes and flower, this pavé pairing is the epitome of contemporary jeweled street chic. Marrying intricate goldsmithing techniques with charming designs, the other pieces in the Gucci Flora line express a different mood. Necklaces, bangles, earrings and rings are worked either in 18kt white or pink gold and offer a perfect combination of femininity and modernity.
rings, deliberately mismatched, featuring a butterfly and a flower design: a nod to Gucci’s unconventional and individual fashion style. The ensemble also comes with a choice of open-work rings, adorned with pink butterflies, flowers or accented with rubies. Completing the look is a matching slim butterfly bangle. All of these delightful pink gold pieces are adorned with charming pink-crimson butterflies, which are enameled and handpainted. Each item is set, assembled, and finished by hand, meaning that each little butterfly has a unique color and allure. Elevating Gucci Flora to new heights are the 18kt white gold items all adorned with gemstones. Rings are chic and modern, making use of diamonds or sapphires, and crafted into a snake design, or in an openwork form, topped by a diamondencrusted butterfly and flower. These sophisticated pieces can be accessorized with a matching slim bangle embellished with a dainty diamond butterfly and pavé horsebit clasp as well as with a dazzling necklace interwoven with 18kt white and pink gold hearts, flowers and butterflies. Gucci Flora is seen here in its many interpretations, expressing a stunning and contemporary new mood that showcases the exceptional skills of Gucci’s Italian master goldsmiths. Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accessories which develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands. For more information about Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry, please visit www.guccijewelry.com.
The pink gold chain necklaces are whimsical and luxurious, scattered with miniature rubies and sapphires for a glamorous yet romantic touch. A more precious necklace variant is seen in a highly detailed version laced with fuchsia enamel butterfly and floral charms, studded with rubies. Continuing this theme are the small stud ear-
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EDUCATION
ADVERTORIAL
ADVERTORIAL
G ECI
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EDUCATION A few years ago a group of scientists and passionate gem experts united their forces under the guidance and according to the vision of an experienced professional and created what was to become one of the “big 6” of the gemological world. This is how GECI, the Gemological Education and Certification Institute was founded and started its operations in Milan, Italy. Although the Institute itself counts only a few years of life, the combined experience of its staff adds up to more than 100 years of hand-on work with gemological research, gemstone analysis and teaching. In fact, one of GECI’s points of strength is the integrity and serious commitment to transparent professionalism that characterizes each one of the staff members, all renowned experts in their fields. Moreover, GECI is one of the very few Gemological Institutes of the world to own unique state-of-the-art gemological equipment with in-house expert scientists to handle the sensitive machinery. GECI is also a proud member of the CIBJO, and actively involved in all Gemological Commissions. GECI divides its operations in three main fields: Laboratory, Research and Education. The GECI Laboratory offers maximum reliability and professionalism in the field of identification and grading of Diamonds, Colored Gemstones, Pearls and Jewels. At the end of each evaluation carried out by the experts gemologists of the GECI laboratory, a report is issued, a statement in English of the identity and quality of the gemstone, which carries identification codes and safety standards, that make it unique and inimitable. There are four different types of Reports: Diamond Report, Colored Stone Report, Pearl Report and Jewelry Report. Scientific Research is among GECI’s primary goals, as a pioneer in gemology and the determination of gemstone origin, but also is the identification of new synthetics and treatments that pose threatening challenges to the international market. The GECI Education department offers courses which provide a modern training process that responds to the demands of the international market and provides students with the highest professional standards and ongoing growth. The GECI gemology courses include both academic lectures and hands-on work, through the use of laboratory-classrooms and gemological instrumentation of the latest generation, with the possibility to take distance-courses. All courses include diamond grading classes, colored stone identification and grading, pearl grading classes, but also dedicated seminars, lab classes, gem and jewelry marketing courses and jewelry design and sketching. Also, GECI offers advanced gemology seminars for the professionals that want to keep up with the latest news of the industry. In GECI, they make sure to study the international market needs and challenges and they continuously update their educational program with short classes that address common market issues, like one-o’-one diamond grading, or new synthetics and treatments and their practical identification, classes that are internationally applicable and essential to all the gem and jewelry professionals. Last month, GECI proudly launched the first ever “Master in Gem and Jewelry Management”. This Master is an innovative program of studies that includes all the subjects that are required for anyone interested in pursuing a career in the gemstone and jewelry business, such as gemology (including diamond grading and colored stones identification, synthetics and treatments), jewelry design, jewelry history and marketing, among others.
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EDUCATION
MASTE R IN GEM AND JEWELRY MANAGEMENT
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Photo courtesy of GECI Š GECI
"Master in Gem and Jewelry Management" program is defined by its integrity and based on the latest innovation techniques in the didactic field and gemological research and supported by innovative technologies and specific case studies.
The "Master in Gem and Jewelry Management" prepares every student for a successful and rewarding career in the gems and jewelry industry. The students will have the once in a life time opportunity to develop the skills and knowledge needed to meet the future challenges of the market. Theoretical, practical and technical issues will be extensively studied and reviewed in both an academic and business environment: ethics, gemstones origin and traceability, identification of synthetics and treatments, jewelry design, sketching and marketing are only some of the topics that will provide each student with a solid cognitive background. "Master in Gem and Jewelry Management" program is defined by its integrity and based on the latest innovation techniques in the didactic field and gemological research and supported by innovative technologies and specific case studies. Even more, the Master takes place in one of the most famous design cities of the world and a country whose history is so linked to the history of jewelry: these are additional intangible resources for all the students that will choose GECI. The "Master in Gem and Jewelry Management" will cover topics like: gemology, diamond grading, gemstones identification and colored gemstones grading, jewelry history jewelry design, sketching, marketing levers for gems and jewelry and management of creativity GECI educational staff is composed of industry leading experts and instructors who have the well-founded intention to lead the students towards starting a rewarding, stimulating and lucrative career such as gemologist, laboratory analyst, professional jeweler, auction house expert, business manager, designer, purchasing manager, product manager, CSR manager. The Master starts on the 5th of October 2015 and will end by end of May 2016. It is a full-time course and frequency is mandatory.
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EDUCATION The lessons will be delivered in English, the international language of this industry. The Master will be held in the GECI classrooms, in Milan, the heart of fashion, art, history and design. Studying in Milan already guarantees a comprehensive vision of the jewelry world.
GECI educational staff is composed of industry leading experts and instructors who have the well-founded intention to lead the students towards starting a rewarding, stimulating and lucrative career.
The course consists of three independent modules, each module providing an in-depth knowledge of the specific theme. It is highly recommended to register for the full course, however the three Modules can be attended separately. GEMOLOGY MODULE (23 weeks): Diamond Grading Course, Colored Stone Course, Pearl Grading Course DESIGN MODULE (5 weeks): Metals, alloys and supply chain, Jewelry history, International brands, Jewelry Design and Sketching MARKETING & MANAGEMENT MODULE (3 weeks): Marketing levers, Innovative sales tools, Customers management, Management of a retail point, Management of a wholesale point, Management of creativity: from the marketing brief to the jewel production
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Photo courtesy of GECI © GECI Photo courtesy of GECI © GECI Photo courtesy of GECI © GECI
The course consists of three independent modules, each module providing an in-depth knowledge of the specific theme.
The educational philosophy of GECI is based on the experience of its instructors and is enriched by laboratory research on a daily basis. Furthermore, the students will meet with professionals from the Italian and the international jewelry market, as well as representatives of the world of branding, design, manufacturing and retail. The course is open to graduates, postgraduates and professionals who wish to pursue an international career in the world of gems and jewelry. Applicants must be at least 18 years old and possess a minimum of a high school diploma. Applicants must be fluent in English.
Photo courtesy of GECI © GECI
At the end of the Gemology Module, participants will receive a Gemologist Diploma, an internationally recognized Diploma. At the end of the "Master in Gem and Jewelry Management", graduates will receive a Gem and Jewelry Management Diploma. For further information visit www.geci-web.com
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Photo courtesy of GECI © GECI
Photo courtesy of GECI © GECI
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ADDRESS BOOK
ADDRESS BOOK
ADLER JOAILLIERS www.adler.ch
GUMUCHIAN www.gumuchian.com
MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.ru
ANTONINI www.antonini.it
ILIAS LALAOUNIS www.iliaslalaounis.com
MATHON www.mathon-paris.com
AVAKIAN www.avakian.com
INEDIT JOAILLIER www.inedit-joaillier.fr
NIKOS KOULIS www.nikoskoulis.gr
BORGIONI www.borgionis.com
JACK VARTANIAN www.jackvartanian.com
OMI PRIVÉ www.omiprive.com
BOUCHERON www.boucheron.com
KULMALA www.kultaseppakulmala.fi
PALMIERO www.palmierogioielli.com
CARRERA Y CARRERA www.carreraycarrera.com
L’DEZEN www.ldezen.com
PASQUALE BRUNI www.pasqualebruni.com
CARLA AMORIM www.carlaamorim.com.br
LETICIA LINTON www.lbldesign.com.br
SETHI COUTURE www.sethicouture.com
CHIMENTO www.chimento.it
LEYLA ABDOLLAHI www.leyla-abdollahi.com
SUTRA www.sutrajewels.com
ELENA SYRAKA www.elenasyraka.com
LE VIAN www.levian.com
SYLVIE CORBELIN www.sylvie-corbelin.com
ENTICE www.entice.in
LYDIA COURTEILLE www.lydiacourteille.com
THEO FENNELL www.theofennell.com
ETHO MARIA www.ethomaria.com
MARLI www.marlinyc.com
TIFFANY & CO. www.tiffany.com
FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY www.farahkhanfinejewellery.com
MASSIMO IZZO www.massimoizzo.com
YANNIS SERGAKIS www.yannissergakis.com
GORALSKA JOAILLERIE www.goralska.com
MAURO FELTER www.maurofelter.com
YEPREM www.yepremjewellery.com
GUCCI Jewelry & Timespieces www.guccitimeless.com
MEGHNA PATEL www.meghnajewels.com
ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr
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Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Creative director-at-large Panayiotis Simopoulos Founder Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier --Contributors Eva Kountouraki, Martin Huynh, Christina Rodopoulou --Creative Jewellery Historian Production Jewellery Historian
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DESIGNER moments JEWELLERY DESIGNER MEGHNA PATEL SHARES WITH US, WHERE SHE GETS HER INSPIRATION & WHAT SHE TREASURES MOST IN LIFE.
Photo courtesy of Tschuggen Hotel Group © Tschuggen Hotel Group
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1 Taj Mahal. I love the intricate designs and details in this monumental building. 2 Inspiration comes from so many different places. This fierce architectural details reflects in my Claw collection. 3 I don't have a favorite gemstone as I feel each precious stone has it's own radiance and beauty. I love creating striking color combination by highlighting each gemstone with different colored stones and sapphires. 4 Switzerland - What I admire most about Switzerland is it's breathtaking greenery, beautiful mountains and valleys. 5 Growing up in India for the first 15 years I have always been surrounded by colors be it Holi(festival of colors), Diwali, clothing or amazing art work. Therefore I am greatly influenced with colored gemstones. 6 It wasn’t long before my love of art and fashion merged and I began to draw jewelry. I envisioned these pieces hanging off the hand of women like me who loved color and haute couture. 7 My creative process is simple and organic. I receive constant inspiration for my designs from anything that I fall in love with at first sight. 8 The Tschuggen Grand Hotel in Arosa, in Switzerland, is one of my favorite hotels. 9 My pieces are not demure; they’re adventurous. What I hope to convey with every bracelet or ring is a warm invitation to go where I have been and see what I have witnessed around the globe. Discover her creations at www.meghnajewels.com Jewellery Historian
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