EATING OUT
Crocker’s Folly
24 Aberdeen Place, St Johns Wood, London NW8 8JR Telephone: 0207 289 9898 Even in a city as busy and celebrated as London there are hidden gems to be found- sometimes you just need to be pointed in the right direction. On this occasion a reader contacted us to recommend that we visit Crocker’s Folly in St Johns Wood, and we are very glad that we listened to his recommendation, as we had a really memorable meal here, in the unexpected splendour of the restaurant’s interior. Crocker’s Folly is a Grade 2 listed former Victorian Gin Palace and from reading up on its history, it is a testament to one man’s optimism. In the mid-1890s, on hearing that the new terminus of the Great Central Railway was to be sited in St John’s Wood, local entrepreneur Frank Crocker decided to build a new hotel to capitalise on the increasing numbers of people that this would inevitably bring to the area. Hiring architect Charles Worley, Frank spared no expense building his Crown Hotel. Every wall, window and ceiling was decorated in ornate style, with Romanesque columns, carved mahogany panelling and gambolling cherubs. Its grand saloon used 50 types of marble to create a magnificent bar-top, archways and an enormous fireplace. Then there was the opulent part-gilded beamed ceiling. Even the chimney and walls were faced with marble. The development included a sumptuous restaurant, a large billiard room, a concert room and several different bars, including one reserved for women only. Unfortunately, Crocker’s ambitions were scuppered by the wealthy local residents who campaigned vigorously to have the train route changed. Their opposition resulted in the line terminating not at the door of the Crown Hotel, but about a mile away, where Marylebone Station now stands. The Crown Hotel became the grandest folly in London. Legend had it that Frank went bust and killed himself by jumping out of an upstairs window, with his ghost haunting the pub ever since. In reality, Crocker died in 1904 of natural causes, and was a much respected member of the community. The tale of his death might not have been true, but it did lead to the pub changing its name to Crocker’s Folly in 1987. For nearly a century the pub remained a popular venue, particularly on match days at nearby Lord’s Cricket Ground, but by the dawn of a new millennium things had begun to change. The quality of the ale and the food declined. Less events were held there. Crocker’s Folly eventually closed in the autumn of 2004 and was placed on the English Heritage Buildings at Risk Register. Despite many protests, its future looked bleak, until its purchase by The Maroush Group. The Group sympathetically and painstakingly restored the venue as a stylish restaurant and bar and the new Crocker’s Folly was born. It has certainly given locals and visitors the chance to enjoy the renaissance of one of the capital’s most striking www.theamericanhour.com
examples of Victorian design. The venue is divided into sections: The 1898 Bar, with its lovingly restored stucco walls and gilded ceilings, is an opulent yet warm and inviting room providing the perfect backdrop against which to enjoy drinks; The main restaurant area is in the stunning Marble Room which houses the building’s legendary and imposing saloon bar and huge open fireplace (we must also mention the summer harvest images on the richly decorated ceiling); The Lord’s Dining Room, named in honour of famous neighbour Lord’s Cricket Ground, is a more intimate dining room, boasting a dazzling Baccarat crystal chandelier and original Victorian Bay windows - Diners can even watch their food being prepared in the open kitchen- making it a great location for a private event or party; and finally The Outdoor Terrace – a covered area where guests can choose from an expertly selected cigar, brandy and whisky pairing menu. Hopefully we have set the scene for this stunning venue and as you would hope, the modern European menu is as interesting and imaginative as the venue itself. The starters, ranging in price from £6.50 to £17, include Roasted Octopus with Pappa Al Pomodoro Sauce and Crocker’s Folly Quinoa Salad. I opted for the Beef Tartar & Black Truffle with Chives, Paprika, Red Onions & Free Range Egg Yolk (£17). This was a great combination of flavours and was beautifully presented. My wife ordered Scallops with Cod Croquet & Pea and Beetroot Cream (£14), which she enjoyed so much that I had to beg to sample one of the scallops! The main course options offer a good variety including Pan Fried Whole Sea Bass (£22), Roasted Mediterranean Quiche (£12), and Pan Fried Lamb Cannon (£22). There is also a selection of options you can choose from the Josper Grill including Rib Eye Steak 300g, Angus Beef Fillet, Rack of Lamb and Whole Grilled Baby Chicken (£20-£28). How could I resist one on my favourite dishes, Lobster Tagliolini (£24), cooked in Lobster and Tomato Bisque? The lobster meat was deliciously tender and
generously portioned, being complemented perfectly by the delicious Bisque. My wife’s choice was the Pan Fried Whole Sea Bass (£22), flavoured with Chopped Tomato, Fresh Basil and Black Olives and served with Rosemary & Thyme Potatoes. Our son chose the Soy Marinated Pork Belly (£16), served with Potato Ponte Nuovo & Apple Cream, which provided another tasting opportunity for me and was quite delicious and not too fatty, as pork belly can sometimes be. The wine list is extensive and includes a good range of wines, priced from £24 a bottle. We opted for a bottle of Te Kairanga Pinot Noir (New Zealand) to accompany our main courses and were pleasantly surprised by the quality and flavour. Housed behind the huge bar, the cocktail and spirit options are extensive, and it seems from the menu that they can pretty much create whatever drink you feel like! I imagine a cold Gin & Tonic is perfect on The Outdoor Terrace in the summer, whilst I think we would have no problem in sampling some of the Crocker’s Folly Signature Cocktails in The 1898 Bar is the winter months. There are also over 30 options of tea and coffee to enjoy all year round. Desserts are priced at £6.50, apart from the Selection of Cheeses with Biscuits & Chutney, which is £9. I opted for this, as it seemed like the perfect follow on from my Lobster dish, and I managed to polish off most of the cheese platter. My wife had the Pistachio Mousse Mille-Feuille, as recommended by our waiter, served with Lavender Cream. She (along with a little help) www.americaninbritain.co.uk
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