American in Britain Spring 2023

EATING OUT

Sticks ‘n’ Sushi, Wimbledon

58 Wimbledon Hill Rd, London, SW19 7PA

Telephone: 0203 141 8800

As the summer approaches, and it cannot come quickly enough for me, those of you who love tennis will start to wistfully think about Wimbledon, and its incredibly manicured grass courts graced by the best players in the world. When you do visit, and you really should if you can, after a wonderful day’s tennis, what better way is there to finish off the day, than with a great meal, and I have just the place.

Wimbledon is ‘where the town meets the country’, and is an eclectic blend of chic shops, cafés and bars, set amongst period buildings and ultra-modern mansions, and it is this mix that has resulted in it being named the capital’s most sought after area by Rightmove, pushing the usual suspects into the lower places. It is against this strong background that restaurants need to stand out from the others, and Sticks ‘n’ Sushi not only stands out, it truly excels.

Located close to Wimbledon Station your first sight of Sticks‘n’Sushi is its fully glassed front providing good light to its large space. When I entered, on a cold Thursday, early evening, I realised just how large the space is. It is truly massive, and I understand it used to house horse carts (which explains why the tables have wheels at their ends), and boasts high ceilings supporting Japanese styled hanging lights which provide gentle light to the mixture of longer, large party tables, and smaller ones for couples or families sitting below.

At the far end of the restaurant there is a bar, busy providing a multitude of drinks, along with a number of Japanese inspired cocktails, and beyond that an open kitchen spanning the whole of the back of the restaurant where the chef’s prepare the tasty

dishes just bursting with flavour. As we were led to our table our waiter welcomed us to the restaurant by calling out ‘namaste’, which is the customary Hindu greeting meaning ‘I bow to the divine in you’.

The menu is inspired by the very different cuisines of Japan and Denmark and has something for everyone, and it is nice to know clearly from the name of the restaurant what it offers, namely fresh sushi and yakitori sticks (although there are other delights including crispy salads and moreish desserts).

The menus helpfully provide you with an image of each dish, which I like a lot, as it really helps with ordering what you think you will like, and takes away the fear of what you are ordering, as you can actually see what you are choosing, rather than guessing what some of the dishes are from their names, which is difficult in a Japanese restaurant.

We started with a generous bowl of Edamame Beans (£5) coated with spicy miso and sesame. Edamame are young soybeans harvested before they ripen and harden and are served in their pods. They are usually served with salt, but we chose the spicy sauce as it was something different, and the spice was an able alternative to the usual salt coating as it enhanced the edamame’s sweet and nutty flavour.

Our next course was some Ebi Bites (£9.50) along with two selections from the Uramaki Sushi selection, Nanban (£13) and the Spicy Tuna (£11.10). The Ebi Bites had fresh shrimp covered in panko breadcrumbs topped with a miso aioli and chilli, and were crisp and light, and our Uramaki, or inside out sushi as it is fondly known, as the rice is on the outside and the seaweed on the inside, were packed with succulent chicken (Nanban) or delicately flavoured fresh tuna, both providing a flavour explosion with each piece.

After our cold starters we then moved onto the warm ‘sticks’ and selected the Tsukune Chilli, Chicken Meatballs, chilli dip, teriyaki and spring onion (£3.50), Gindara No Miso, Black Cod & Miso (£11.50) and Shake Teriyaki, Salmon, Teriyaki & spring onion (£3.30), along with a bowl of rice with crunchy chilli (£2.60), and Cauliflower, fried and served with black truffle goma (£6.20). The chicken meatballs had a slightly charred flavour from being cooked on the grill, and the mildly sweet buttery flavour of the black cod was well supported by the salty miso coating. Salmon teriyaki is a firm favourite and it is not hard to see why, as the sweet teriyaki sauce compliments the flaky salmon perfectly. The star, however, was the cauliflower, and is a must order dish. Goma means sesame in Japanese and this rich black truffle sesame sauce and the crunchy roasted cauliflower is a combination made in heaven.

Although we chose from the à la carte menu, there are a number of set menus which will allow you to sample all that Sticks’n’Sushi offers with starters, maki, nigiri, as well as sticks, which is aptly named ‘As good as it gets’ (£115 for 2 people), and these are perfect for larger groups.

Sticks‘n’Sushi’s food appeals to all groups of people, and whilst we were there this was ably demonstrated as there were a number of families in the restaurant with their young children, couples enjoying a pre-theatre meal, and also a number of adult groups all enjoying the food.

Sticks‘n’Sushi provides the best that Japanese and Nordic cuisine offers, and does it in a stylish location with knowledgeable staff who care about you having a good time, and this is an intoxicating combination that will have me returning again and again.

www.sticksnsushi.com/en/restaurants/ london/Wimbledon

Big Easy Canary Wharf

Park Level, Crossrail Place, London, E14 5AR

Telephone: 0204 580 1172

There are many restaurants offering American food in the UK, and one of the foremost is the Big Easy, which was established in Chelsea in 1991. As well as serving American-style food, it also serves it in the portion sizes I remembered from my numerous visits to the US! This chain currently has several restaurants in the UK, the largest of which is in Canary Wharf, which impressively sits atop the Canary Wharf Crossrail terminal looking imperiously down on the myriad of waterways that make up the Wharf. We visited on a Sunday afternoon and the restaurant was buzzing, as it was full of groups of adults enjoying a meal and a Sunday drink, as well as lots of families treating their offspring to traditional American fare.

The entrance into the main restaurant and bar takes you past the vast kitchens where ‘the magic happens’, and then the space opens up to the Rum Bar & Lounge, which is inspired by the melting-pot of cultures found in the American Gulf Coast,

with the feel of Jamaica’s Port Royal in the 1700’s. The Lounge has an impressive 10-metre bar with over 550 bottles of spirits (100 of which are of rum, well what would you expect in Jamaica in the 17 hundreds?), and is where the bar staff create a vast number of tipples, including the Big Easy’s world-famous frozen Margaritas, boozy juices, grown-up milkshakes and cocktails on tap. The Big Easy also have their own exclusive Big Easy Brew, and an extensive wine list, so you will certainly find something to drink whilst you enjoy live music, every evening at 7pm, as you unwind after work.

The menu is simple and offers you everything you were imagining you would like to eat whilst travelling to the restaurant, with the starters including Chicken Wings, Ribs, Fried Chicken and Shrimp. My wife chose the loaded Potato Skins (£7.90) and added bacon (£1.90) for good luck. The skins are twice-baked and topped with mature cheddar and spring onion and with the addition of the bacon were spot on. My choice was a no brainer, as when I see chicken wings in a spicy sauce I just can’t help ordering them, and so the Original Voodoo Chicken Wings was my selection. The wings were crispy and coated with the Big Easy’s voodoo sauce and a light

blue cheese dipping sauce, and tasted just like wings I have eaten in the US, with the voodoo sauce being the star of the dish, providing a good zing which can be countered by the creamy blue cheese dip.

Choosing what to order for your main is very difficult as everything sounds so appetising (I guess I will just have to come back a few more times then!), and the choice is extensive.

What makes the food here good? Well, the simple answer is the quality of the produce and the way it is cooked. Their steaks are hand cut quality beef, and the pork is taken from Gloucester Old Spot and Saddleback breeds renown for their flavour. The Lobsters are fished from the icy Nova Scotia waters and flown in by Air Canada three times a week to ensure the lobster is as fresh as possible. I am not sure where the chicken comes from, but I do know it tastes wonderful! These quality ingredients are enhanced further as they have all been cooked the old fashioned way, slowly over a wood fire, which maximises the flavour even more.

Big Easy has a special daily deal every day of the week starting on Monday’s with the wonderfully named ‘The Big Pig Gig’ (£25 per person), providing unlimited Pork Ribs, Pulled Pork and BBQ Chicken, served with slaw and beans and a 2 pint stein of Big Easy Brew or a glass of wine, through to Thursday’s where the deal involves Steak, Lobster and Wine. The weekend deals offer Whole Lobster or Unlimited BBQ Brunches (up to 4pm) for £29.50, which again includes a drink, or for an additional £5 for unlimited drinks which is a fantastic deal. These specials are not just for the evenings or weekends, there are some available for lunchtimes, as well starting from a very generous £10 for one course with a drink.

Although the Big Easy is a large venue, (it has space to accommodate 5,000 people for a standing event), the space is well laid out into sections which gives the diner the feel of a much smaller venue, so couples can enjoy their meal as much as the larger parties that Big Easy caters for. It also has an extensive outside terrace so, when the summer comes, diners and drinkers can enjoy lovely views of the docks whilst enjoying a drink or bite to eat, and if you want a little more privacy for your group. The Big Easy also has a private dining room called the ‘Captain’s Table’, which has a big TV and sound system and is perfect for a special family event.

The Big Easy provides its diners with an authentic American dining experience in London as it provides quality food cooked in the traditional way in authentic surroundings with swift and friendly service. That combination makes it a great place to enjoy a meal out with a group of friends or to treat your kids, all at a wallet pleasing price. www.bigeasy.co.uk

Dishoom

Dishoom Canary Wharf

13 Water Street, London, E14 5GX

Telephone: 0207 420 9326

Every time I go to Canary Wharf there seems to be a new part open, and from its origins, seemingly a lifetime ago, when there were only a few firms here and fewer restaurants, and bars, Canary Wharf is now one of the places to live, and there are restaurants a plenty.

Dishoom is a new comer to the thriving Canary Wharf scene, and its eclectic menu is fast becoming a firm favourite, if our visit early on a Friday afternoon was anything to go by.

The vibe is buzzy with trendy music, and the aromas coming from the kitchen are to die for. Dishoom is a chain, and Canary Wharf is its latest offering, as it looks to bring back to life the glittering-shimmering, big business metropolitan scene of 1970’s Bombay, India. The design mirrors the Irani cafés that surrounded the Bombay Stock Exchange where fortunes were won and lost and, although it is the largest of Dishoom’s restaurants so far, it still retains its authentic feeling of such a 1970’s café.

It is a testament to the quality and value of the food Dishoom serves, that those who have been to one before, will know that you sometimes have to wait for a table, but the stylish bar area and the outside seating are perfect to sip a drink whilst waiting, despite the fact that it always seems to be windy in Canary Wharf!

Irani cafés, on which the Dishoom premise is based on, broke down barriers at that time and promoted bringing people together, and that feeling of togetherness does permeate throughout this restaurant. We luckily arrived early afternoon, so just before the Friday evening rush (although the restaurant was almost full even then), and were shown to our table where we were given some water from metal beakers, which took me back to my student journeys across India (albeit later than the 1970’s as I am not that old!), and an extensive menu from which to choose from.

Dishoom is open from 8am weekdays and 9am at the weekend, so offers you the option to start the day with a Parsi Omelette a bowl of Date & Banana Porridge, or my personal favourite, the Bacon Naan Roll.

I want to let you know that for every meal you have at Dishoom they donate a meal to a child in the UK and India. So far, over 15 million meals have been provided to children in schools to give them a meal so they can focus on learning, so hats off to Dishoom for supporting such a wonderful charity.

The menu is extensive and includes all the Dishoom favourites from their other restaurants, so making selections is tricky. One tip I can impart is to order each course one or two at a time, as the dishes you

order will come out when they are ready, not when you are! Therefore, if you don’t order in stages you may well get your main course only a few minutes after your starters which forces you to eat the food too quickly to ensure you eat it hot.

For our starters we choose the Pau Bhaji (£6.90) the Bhel (£6.20), the Dishoom House Chat (£7.90), the Chilli Chicken (£8.70) and the Prawn Koliwada (£9.50). The Pau Bhaji was a wonderful mix of mashed vegetables Chowpatty style, which was rich and warming with a hint of heat, served with hot buttered buns. The Bhel is cold and was crunchy and light with the mixture of puffed rice, crushed peanut and Bombay mix countered by the sharpness of pomegranate, onion and lime. Chat is a staple diet of Indian’s, and this was a cut above the many I have tasted, and the prawns were juicy and well spiced. The only real imposter (although still good) was the Chilli Chicken, which is really an Indo-Chinese dish, but its place on the menu is secured by the flavour of soy and ginger that bursts through.

Our mains, please remember, don’t order these until you have finished your starters, were the Dishoom Chicken Tikka (£11.50) and the Mutton Pepper Fry (£16.90) with basmati rice (£4.20) and a Tandoori Roti (£4.20). The Chicken Tikka is, I believe, a family recipe, and whether it is or isn’t, it is very, very good, with succulent and well charred chicken which has been marinaded in a sweet vinegar rather than yoghurt and well spiced. However, the star was the mutton. Mutton is usually the meat of a female sheep over 2 years old, but in the Indian subcontinent the term mutton refers to goat meat. Either way, there may be a slight snobbery about the cut of meat (think of the phrase mutton dressed as lamb), but please ignore those prejudices and select this dish, as you will not be disappointed. Here, the finest mutton has been marinaded in chilli, garlic and ginger and slow cooked to make the curry rich and meaty which is a perfect foil for the light and fluffy rice and the crumbly Roti.

If you have eaten too much of the starters and mains, rather than a dessert, you can select a number of clever dessert cocktails, including the Velvette Fogg (£11.20) which my wife chose. This is a heady mixture of chai ice cream, coffee liqueur and vodka, a wonderfully decadent end to a meal. I, however, had enough room, and despite the pull towards the Dishoom Chocolate Pudding (£8.90) I chose a more traditional dessert of Basmati Kheer (£7.90). The silky caramelised rice pudding had hints of coconut, vanilla and cardamon running through it, and perfectly calmed my taste buds after our spicy meal.

Although a chain, each restaurant has its own specific feel, whilst still serving those signature dishes Dishoom is famed for, and the value for money just can’t be faulted, and neither can the food.

www.dishoom.com/canary-wharf

Flight Club

6 Sir Simon Milton Square, London, SW1E 5DJ Telephone: 0203 019 3093

Since the set-up of the PDC (Professional Dart Corporation), the image of darts as being a game that is played in a dingy smoky room by overweight men drinking heavily has been erased, and darts has now become a more mainstream game which can be played by everyone.

For any game to be accessible to the whole population it is important to make it simple for everyone to play, regardless of their ability, and Flight Club does just that, with its innovative electronic darts and dart board, and variety of games available to play.

When I started to play darts at a very early age, rather than playing 501 with a double finish which is what you see on the television, I started by playing a few games that weren’t so difficult, and a number of these are now part of the Flight Club offering, (although when I played them they were not so high tech!), and this is the best thing about the Flight Club, as you don’t have to be a darting or maths expert to enjoy your time there, as it is all electronic, so you don’t need to count or score, it is all done for you.

Flight Club set up in 2012, when the co-founders Steve Moore and Paul Barham were in a Devon pub, and saw a crowd of people enjoying a game of darts, and realised the potential of social darts as it really is great fun. From those small beginnings. Flight Club now has 12 sites around the country, introducing a considerable number of people to the joy, and the pain, of darts!

I visited the Victoria venue on a Sunday evening with my wife and a friend, all of differing darting abilities, and we were all struck immediately by the décor of the venue before you even enter the main area. The staircase has been decorated as if it were a helter-skelter, and once you reach the top the room opens out to a mixture of dartboard areas and seating surrounding the bar, all in the style of a fairground.

You do need to book a time slot for your darts games, and at our designated time we were taken to one of the 18 oches they have and given a quick guide as to how to play. The first, and probably the most important choice, is to take your photograph for the system, as it is critical to at least look good, even if your darts aren’t, as your picture comes up over and over again during your games. Once that is over you select from a number of games including ‘Killer’ and a really fun game of ‘Snakes and Ladders’, where the number you move is determined by where your dart lands in the board. Although it clearly helps to be able to throw a dart, the games are designed in such a way to even out the differing skill levels of the members of your group, so the games are always close. Our group included a regular darts player, a casual player and a total beginner, and the games enabled all of us to have fun and to compete which made the evening fun for each of us.

In addition to the darts, the food and drink adds to the enjoyment of your Flight Club experience. The drink’s selection is extensive and is served from a central bar in the middle of the room, but whilst you are playing if you press a button on your dart system a server

will come and take your order, so we were never short of liquid encouragement!

After our time was up, bringing to a close our glorious journey into the world of darts, we retired to the buzzing bar area to have something to eat and relived our amazing treble twenty and bull shots.

The food, like the darts, is based on a sharing concept, and so most of the food is designed to share between your group. We selected the Mac and Cheese Croquettes with cheese sauce (£5.95) and the Salt and Pepper Squid with green chilli aioli (£8.50) as starters, and what better than to combine macaroni cheese and a crunchy batter to make a dish? The squid was also well seasoned and a great start to our meal. To follow you can select individual dishes like burgers etc, but we continued our sharing theme and selected from the sharing pizza paddles the Pepperoni Pizza with red pepper relish (£15.95) and the Meat Feast Pizza with pepperoni, nduja, bacon, smoked cheese and oregano (£16.95). The pizzas are thin and crispy and packed with toppings and are definitely to share, as the three of us struggled to finish the two we had ordered as they are so big, and at least two of us are hearty eaters!

Darts has now become one of the fastest growing sports in the world, and when you watch it on TV it seems so simple, but unfortunately it really isn’t! Despite this, and regardless of your skill level, Flight Club makes playing darts fun and provides a great and original night out accompanied with great food and drink all at very reasonable prices, for both large and small groups.

www.flightclubdarts.com

TRAVEL

Essaouria, Morocco, Featuring The Hotel, Le Jardin Des Douars

For those wanting a lovely peaceful break from the dreary UK weather, I can totally recommend Essaouria, a port on the Moroccan coast, which is a mixture of historical port, bustling Medina, and top-notch hotels, all with an all-year-round warm climate.

The easiest way to get to the tiny airport of Essaouria from the UK, is to get a Ryanair flight from Stanstead (flights on Tuesdays and Saturdays), but there are other options with other airlines, but they have longer transfer times.

Unlike the other Moroccan costal resorts Essaouria has retained its traditional culture and character, mainly due to the winds that blow throughout the year, but don’t let that put you off coming, as the winds don’t always blow and the beach next to the town is large and sandy and is a lovely place to experience a horse or camel ride.

Essaouria was a significant port in its time, and there is still a strong fishing presence where the fishermen still mend their nets, and fish from their traditional boats. Built to protect the port, and another site to visit, is The Sqala of the Kasbah, built in 1765. The Sqala consists of a number of rooms to store the ammunition and weapons, and is equipped with a beautiful collection of Spanish cannons dating from the 16th century. The real star is, however, the Medina, with its dramatic ramparts protectively surrounding the narrow streets bustling with street vendors selling clothes, souvenirs, food and of course Argan Oil. We happily spent a morning wandering through the stalls and shops haggling occasionally to get the best price on our purchases, and to see life as the locals live, because this isn’t just for tourists, as it also sells fruit, vegetables, chicken and fish.

Essaouria has always been a city that attracts artists and that hasn’t changed over the years, so when you visit there will certainly be a number of exhibitions to enjoy.

Essaouria is also blessed with a number of wonderful restaurants all serving traditional food in a traditional environment dotted around the Medina, and there are a number of rooftop bars where you can enjoy the sunset whilst sipping on a cold drink.

For our more active readers, Essauoria is known as the windy city of Africa, and so is a kite- and wind- surfing mecca for part of the year, and there is a wonderful Gary Player designed 18 hole championship golf course, which makes the most of the contours of the rugged landscape and just oozes quality and wonderful sea views.

Less than a fifteen-minute drive from the airport, and up an unmade, dusty road, almost in the middle of nowhere, is an oasis of calm and tranquillity in the form of the hotel, Le Jardin des Douars.

The hotel is independent and privately owned by three couples, which may be why the hotel has such a friendly, personal feel to it, and it still remains an absolute mystery to me that the official star rating for the hotel is 3, when personally I would rate it 5, and everyone who has been there agrees with me!

The gardens surrounding the property are what first make you feel like you are in a very special place, as they are beautifully kept and are abundant in their numbers and species of plants. On the way from the airport our driver told us about the protected forests of argan trees which line the roads, and whose fruit yields Essaouira’s “gold”: Argan Oil. Argan oil has subtle properties scientifically recognised for their effects on skin and beauty, and many botanists have tried to plant argan trees around the world, all the way to Asia. However, all attempts

have failed, so seemingly the tree prefers its native land of Essaouira above all others.

As you enter the property, there are six stunning villas, each with three, four or five bedrooms, that are available to rent, and believe me, are breath-taking. The décor is warm and welcoming and their outdoor areas are perfect, each with large, separate swimming pools, comfortable, padded sun loungers, and their own beautiful gardens, just right for family holidays or trips with a group of friends. Each villa has its own staff member, who will come in every morning and make breakfast, and can then also cook dinner for you at an extra charge, or you can choose to eat in the hotel, or cater for yourselves in the well-equipped kitchen - (there are large supermarkets a short drive away).

The hotel itself is built in the Moroccan style, with a number of outer buildings surrounding the main ’palace’, all with rustic, terracotta walls, floor tiles and bedrooms, which all have en-suite bathrooms and their own private outdoor space. Some of these spaces are more

private than others, and our room included a secluded rooftop terrace with wonderful views of the sunset over the dusty Moroccan countryside, which I would whole heartedly recommend. All the buildings are no more than two stories high, and are built on different levels, so they are not imposing at all, and blend well with the ambience of the entire hotel. The bathrooms have showers, and some have large, tiled baths, that do take quite a long time to fill up, as they really are large, but well worth the wait if, like me, you are a bath lover! The towels aren’t the usual soft fluffy type, but traditional cloth which adds to the authenticity of the hotel and its commitment to sustainability.

Although not a large hotel, indeed many refer to it as a guesthouse, there is a wide selection of rooms to choose from (19 bedrooms, 6 suites and 6 villas) and all are individually decorated in an authentic style giving the guests that Moroccan feel, and the suites are perfect for that extra bit of luxury for a couple or a joint space for a family.

Le Jardin des Douars has two restaurants, one for families, with a large glass tiled wall looking out on to beautiful scenery, and a comfortable communal area around the open fire, whilst the other adult only restaurant (which offers the same menu), has a quieter, more intimate atmosphere. There is also a fabulous outdoor terrace and dining area that is used for lunchtimes, and is a great place to enjoy a drink whilst chatting to fellow guests and listening to the call of the frogs in the rockpool, before enjoying the Moroccan cuisine.

Each evening there is a set menu on offer, as well as the à la carte menu, and the same options are available for lunchtimes, although the menus are different. We thoroughly enjoyed all our meals at the hotel, that included flatbreads with a guacamole dip, smoked salmon, an onion tart tatin, vermicelli with chicken, linguine with green vegetables, a crispy prawn burger, pavlova with fruits and chocolate pie. All were beautifully presented and reasonably priced for a hotel that has no other restaurants within walking distance, which made it easy to continue the relaxation, as the quality and variety of the food is so good that there is no reason to have to head into town for dinner.

Breakfast is taken in the family restaurant, and is continental in style, offering cereals, cold meats, cheese, breads, jam, and fruit, and then there are four extra options to choose from the menu, including Moroccan Pancakes, French Toast, Eggs and Omelettes (the Moroccan pancakes are highly recommended, and very popular!).

There are two immaculate swimming pools at the hotel, one for families overlooking the Ksob Oued River, and the other, an adult only infinity pool, both with stylish turquoise tiling. Both have a sunbathing terrace with thick sun loungers, towels and sun hats, and a bar with waiter service should you require a drink. At around 4pm, Moroccan tea and cake are served to guests by the pool, which incidentally is heated to a very acceptable level, which is not always the case in some hotels who leave their pools unheated throughout the year. In fact, the pool was at such lovely temperature it was a total pleasure to swim in, and was never crowded.

There were also enough sun loungers for all the guests, so there was no need to get up early to reserve them!

The hotel does have a spa which offers treatments such as the traditional Hamman treatment, as well as massages. I braved the traditional black soap Hamman, and having been wound up by my wife about me being scrubbed to an inch of my life (which would remove all of my tan), entered the heated room with great trepidation. This unease increased when I was asked to lie face up on what was a marble alter and was rubbed down with black soap and left to lie there whilst the soap opened the pores on my skin. Thoughts of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom and the sacrifice scene flashed through my mind, but I needn’t have worried, as after a few minutes the lady returned and my whole body was gently scrubbed down and the rejuvenating soap washed off with hot water. This is how the Romans and others used to bathe, and I can see the appeal, as when I left my skin was renewed (and my tan still intact) and I felt refreshed and relaxed as well as being spotlessly clean. My wife had a sports massage which was expertly done by one of the masseurs in a candlelit room that was beautifully scented with shafts of daylight shining through tiny holes in the wooden windows, creating a very relaxing and calming atmosphere.

The hotel is an oasis a few miles from Essaouria, and so to get into town the hotel offers a shuttle service, should you wish to go shopping, dine in one of the local restaurants or visit the UNESCO World Heritage listed Medina with all its colourful stalls, which those devotees of Games Of Thrones will recognise as the home of the Army of the Unsullied.

The pace of life in Essaouria is gentle and laidback, and from the moment you land at the airport you just feel relaxed and at one with yourself, and that feeling of peace and relaxation permeates throughout the whole hotel and sets the perfect backdrop for a relaxing, luxury holiday.

For further information please visit www.jardindesdouars.com

THEATRE REVIEWS

By Tim Baros

Dirty Dancing

There’s a lot of dancing in ‘Dirty Dancing,’ and it’s a bit dirty - but will you have the time of your life?

Returning back to the London stage (now playing at the Dominion Theatre), ‘Dirty Dancing’ will be one for the jukebox musical lovers (out of towners and tourists), but not for the die hard theatre goers.

It’s the late 1960’s and ‘Baby’ (Kira Malou) and her family are vacationing in the Catskills (upper New York State resort). They partake in all the activities the resort has to offer, including dancing, and Baby takes up a dancing class with Johnny Castle (Michael O’Reilly) as she really, really fancies him. And as many of you have seen the film with Patrick Swayze and Jenifer Grey you all know how it plays out.

Bonnie & Clyde

Bonnie & Clyde are back in the West End with their crime and murder spree, but this time they are on a rampage in a much larger venue.

Last year their crimes took place at The Arts Theatre, now it’s at the much larger Garrick - and opening night proved a major draw (attendees included Luke Evans and Rhydian).

Luke Gordon Gage and Francis Mayli McCann reprise their roles as Clyde and Bonnie, though as Bonnie prefers ‘Bonnie & Clyde’ in a production that pulls out all the stops in telling the true story of America’s most famous crime couple.

Sweet and innocent Bonnie lives with her mother (father is deceased), and then one day meets Clyde Barrow, who along with his brother Buck (George Maguire) are career criminals, much to the dismay of their mother (Pippa Winslow) and Buck’s wife Blanche (Jodie Steele). Bonnie & Clyde start their relationship nice and sweet, but eventually Bonnie gets caught up in the

crimes of her husband and soon enough she’s in it for the long haul. And there’s no turning back when Clyde kills a policeman so the couple have to live life on the run.

Bonnie & Clyde was so successful in its first run that it’s great to see it come back. While Mayli is good, no one can match the voice and energy and performance of Gagethe show is his (previously he was Romeo in ‘& Juliet’, but this time he’s the star). Gage belts out one in ‘Raise a Little Hell’ and ‘Bonnie’, while Steele steels scenes away from Maguire and Mayli - Steele has been in many shows and her experience shows.

While nothing can replace the masterpiece of the film (Faye Dunaway and Warren Beatty), this production is well done and an able starter for people who haven’t seen the film and don’t know much about the gun-slinging murderous couple of the 1950’s.

Bonnie & Clyde is playing until May 20, 2023. www.bonnieandclydemusical.com

But in this theatre production, Malou looks way to young to play Baby, and O’Reilly is too chiselled (and too stiff) to play Johnny (he has an obligatory underwear scene that’s actually a bit cringe worthy). They both can dance their hearts out (as do the rest of the cast - especially Charlotte Gooch as Penny - she’s the best of the lot, as are the vocals provided by the house band called Kellerman’s Band). But it’s a short run (in London until April 29th, 2023 before heading off on tour again). The music is singalong and the set and sound are adequate for the huge stage. It may not be for the purists, but it is a fun and uncomplicated musical and for many I am sure going will be ‘the time of their lives’. www.dirtydancingonstage.co.uk/west-end/

BONNIE & CLYDE. Jodie Steele ‘Blanche’, George Maguire ‘Buck’, Frances Mayli McCann ‘Bonnie’, Jordan Luke Gage ‘Clyde’. Photo Darren Bell

Kira Malou, Michael O’Reilly & the ensemble of Dirty Dancing (c) Mark Senior

The Lehman Trilogy

Scene 1, Act 1: Glass office in a high rise building with the NYC skyline in the background. Three rooms: one a lounge, the other a conference room, and the last one a small office. This is The Lehman Trilogy.

Opening to rave reviews at The National Theatre in 2018, The Lehman Trilogy is back, now at the Gillian Lynne Theatre in Covent Garden. It brilliantly tells the story of the rise and mighty fall of the investment bank that once was Lehman Brothers. Three actors grace the stage, skilfully playing the three Lehman brothers who started up the business, as well as other characters instrumental in the history of Lehman the company, including the sons and grandsons. Nigel Lindsay is absolutely brilliant as Henry Lehman, who left his home country of Bavaria to start a new life in America, winding up on the Deep South in 1851 in Montgomery, Alabama, and opening up a general store. Emanuel arrives next into America, (played by a very good Hadley Fraser). The third brother, Mayer, arrives next (Michael Balogun).

Henry and his brothers start buying and reselling raw cotton, but despite the unforeseen death of Henry and the start of the US civil war, it didn’t stop the remaining brothers opening up an office in downtown NYC. A decade later

the company becomes a bank, and as well as diversifying into other industries, eventually morphing into an investment bank. With the determination, drive, and confidence, and name, the sons and grandsons morph the company into one of the most valued and respected companies in the US, But what goes up must come down, and Lehman Bros. was heavily entangled in subprime mortgages that caused its demise in September 2008.

The Lehman Trilogy, at three hours and twenty minutes (with two intervals), never

once flags, thanks in part to the the sharp script (by Stefano Massini, and adapted by Ben Power) and smooth direction (the great Sam Mendes). An excellent set (as described above) is mesmerising, and the backdrop changes with the mood of the show, but it’s success is ultimately down to the actors who command the stage - and it is quite an achievement to memorise all that dialogue. It’s a story that could be deemed an American Tragedy, and unfortunately it is not inconceivable that it could happen again in our lifetime.

www.thelehmantrilogy.com

The Lehman Trilogy West End 2023, L-R Michael Balogun, Hadley Fraser, Nigel Lindsay © Mark Douet

TAXING ISSUES Tax

Considerations For American Families In The United Kingdom

The following is designed to provide general tax information for Americans living abroad or contemplating a foreign move. As with all tax and legal issues, seeking tailored advice from qualified counsel is advisable.

Complicating factors abound, but American families in the United Kingdom have options to ensure they keep financial plans heading in the right direction despite the added nuance. The approach includes optimising the annual US tax filings, maximising tax incentives collectively offered by both countries, and determining if there are ways to ease the pain for children who may love apple pie and the New York Yankees, but remain oblivious to the dark side of the blue passport.

Filing Status

With tax returns generally filed separately by spouses in the United Kingdom, the concept of combining family income will primarily focus on US tax attributes. Filing status is a straightforward determination for American families abroad when both spouses are US citizens or permanent residents. The same decision-making factors facing US-based families will predominantly apply with joint US tax returns often providing a more favourable outcome.

Yet, when only one spouse is a US citizen, limitations on the ability to optimise filing status will follow. By default, an American taxpayer married to a nonresident will be obliged to use the Married Filing Separately (MFS) filing status. Primary disadvantages for those using this status include:

1. Higher tax brackets. The top tax rate of 37% kicks in for MFS at $323,925, whereas single taxpayers do not hit this threshold until $539,000, and jointly filing taxpayers at $647,850 (2022).

2. Lower annual tax filing threshold. Taxpayers using MFS status must file a US tax return each year if total income is greater than $5. Other Taxpayers may not need to file unless their income is more than the standard deduction amount for that year, $12,950 for single Taxpayers and $25,900 for those filing jointly (2022). Different thresholds will apply to self-employed individuals and those over age 65.

3. Elimination of certain tax credits and deductions. Taxpayers using MFS status will generally be limited from claiming the Child and Dependent Care Credit or education credits, such as the American

Opportunity Credit or Lifetime Learning Credit. Deductions for tuition or student loan interest are also unavailable.

4. Lower threshold for Net Investment Income Tax. The threshold for the 3.8% NIIT, which cannot be offset by British taxes paid, is set at $125,000 for MFS taxpayers, whereas single filers do not pay until $200,000 and joint filers at $250,000.

5. Limitations on Roth contributions. MFS filers cannot contribute to a Roth IRA if income is greater than $10,000, thus rendering such accounts largely unavailable. Given that high rates of tax are assessed in the United Kingdom and incomes are not combined locally when determining tax liability, the true disadvantages of MFS filing status may be unimpactful to the bottom line. However, when one of the restrictions described above does prove problematic, two options may permit a more favourable filing strategy.

The Head of Household filing status is available for those who pay more than half the cost of maintaining a home for a dependent child. Generally, married taxpayers must be living apart from their spouse to use this filing status; however, when a spouse is nonresident during any portion of the year, the Taxpayer is “considered unmarried” for Head of Household purposes.

Determining which spouse is paying more than half of household support will often be a straightforward determination. In borderline cases, keeping good records and structuring finances to ensure that the American spouse’s support is being allocated directly to household expenses will be helpful.

Americans may also elect to file a joint US tax return with a nonresident spouse. The result of the election is that the nonresident spouse is subsequently classified as a US resident for tax purposes, taxable on his or her worldwide income. Given the notoriety as the most challenging tax status on planet earth, this may be a difficult sell and starting the conversation with some hard and fast numbers is likely to be the best approach here.

Every situation is unique but families in certain scenarios may be able to use such an election to bypass limitations or incremental tax liabilities created by MFS status, such as inability to make contributions to a Roth IRA or exposure to NIIT due to the lower threshold.

Making such an election requires careful consideration of future tax planning for the family. Importantly, many of the challenges American investors face with respect to

stocks and shares ISAs and the dreaded PFIC tax exposure would thereafter be encountered by a nonresident spouse. For example, the election would undermine any strategy that would leverage a spouse’s nonresident status to pursue local savings incentives that would be toxic for a US taxpayer to maintain.

The election remains in effect in later years until revoked and can only be made once by both spouses. If made and subsequently revoked, the joint filing election will be eliminated from future tax planning opportunities that may arise as retirement approaches. A long-term view of this election should be taken.

US Tax Credits

As a general matter, the high rates of British tax and the ability to claim foreign tax credits will mean that the economic impact of any tax credit is often lost unless the credit is “refundable” and can be paid out as a cash outlay beyond the tax liability for the year. Notable credits available to American expats that contain this feature are the Additional Child Tax Credit and American Opportunity Credit.

Nevertheless, scenarios can arise where a nonrefundable credit reduces US tax exposure in a manner that does not drive an incremental UK tax liability. For example, though the amounts have been steadily reduced in recent years, the United Kingdom offers more generous specific exemptions for different types of investment income than may be available on the US side. An American opting for remittance basis taxation in the UK may also be in a better position to improve tax outcomes with nonrefundable US tax credits.

Examples of common nonrefundable credits include the Child and Dependent Care Credit, Credit for the Elderly and Disabled, Adoption Credit, Lifetime Learning Credit, and Saver’s Credit. Understanding the overall impact of these tax benefits from a cross-border perspective is important.

With nonrefundable credits often providing minimal benefit to those paying a high rate of British tax, determining eligibility for the Additional Child Tax Credit is crucial for American families abroad. This benefit was expanded significantly in 2017 and is currently available to those filing jointly with income below $400,000 and single taxpayers with income below

$200,000. The refundable payment totals $1,500 per child below the age of 17.

This refundable credit will reduce NIIT and any excess is paid out as a tax refund. Please note the higher income thresholds established in 2017 are to sunset in 2026 without legislative action.

Owning The Family Home

The US and UK tax systems incentivise ownership of a family home; however, the rules in place on both sides of the pond are not identical. The incentive gap can create scenarios for American families where tax is due in one country, but not the other.

In the United Kingdom, gain is fully excludable from capital gains tax, provided the property had been used as a main home during the entire period of ownership. The ownership period is allocated between time as a main home and the period of nonqualifying use, with only gain attributable to the nonqualifying period being subject to UK tax at a rate of 18% for basic rate Taxpayers and 28% at the higher rate.

In the United States, taxpayers may exclude up to $250,000 in gain ($500,000 for married taxpayers filing jointly) from the sale of a main home, provided they owned and used the home as a principal residence for two of the prior five years before the home sale.

Accordingly, if significant gain were to be produced from the sale of a British home or, alternatively, a home with a period of nonqualified use produces gains below the relevant US exclusion threshold, a one-sided tax liability could be produced.

Tax paid on the sale means less to reinvest in a new home. With the profound impact ownership of a family home can have on the ability to build wealth, taxes should not arise unexpectedly.

Education Savings And State Residency

State residency following a move from the United States will be a subjective and heavily nuanced issue for families that contemplates the length of the stay in the United Kingdom, specific attributes of the family and business, and the state where ties are maintained. Given the challenges faced in many states with reducing state-level tax on income earned abroad, efforts are often taken to break residency in the home state to avoid a continued tax liability on already highly taxed British source income or investment earnings.

A family moving to the United Kingdom on an indefinite basis, with no specific plans to return stateside, is often in a position to break residency in the state where they were living prior to the move. This change does have the potential to reduce overall tax exposure, but families who have been thinking about US colleges for their children

would want to understand whether such a change could result in-state tuition rates becoming unavailable.

US education savings plans are generally ineligible for the same tax protection granted to pensions and ISAs in the United Kingdom, meaning the opportunity for tax-free growth on higher education savings could also be undermined. Furthermore, the deduction for contributions to these arrangements is claimed at the state level and would be neutralised if US state tax returns were no longer being filed. Following a mid or long-term move to the United Kingdom, strategies to change how contributions for education savings accounts are made in the United States and analysing the potential of converting such an arrangement to an IRA or leveraging it for pre-university education expenses may be worthwhile.

Accounts And Investments For US Children

Challenges with US-based education savings plans would logically lead to the pursuit of UK savings options for children, such as Junior ISAs or Childrens Bonds. Helping a child start saving for the future as early as possible does not need to be deterred by potential tax or reporting issues that would follow. As with all other decisions in this space, the approach will undoubtedly be a bit different than it will for US-based families.

US citizens can gift children up to $16,000 annually without triggering a gift tax return and even after that threshold is passed, gift tax is not due until the significant lifetime gifts are made. Similarly in the United Kingdom, a gift is not subject to any transfer tax unless the donor passes away within seven years of having made the gift. But keep in mind that a child receiving a gift from a nonresident parent or relative will be required to disclose it on Form 3520 if the amount received during the year exceeds $100,000.

Accounts and investments owned by US citizen children will encounter essentially the same tax and financial reporting obligations as those held by their parents. Moreover, tax rules will require in many situations that investment earnings of children be taxed at the respective tax rates of their US parents. An election can be made to include a child’s investment income on a parent’s tax return to avoid a separate filing being needed for their child. Otherwise, a US citizen child would need to file a tax return in the United States if their investment income is greater than $1,150 (2022) annually.

To complicate matters, as clarified by our friends with the Financial Crimes Enforcement Network (FinCEN), “… a child is responsible for filing his or her own FBAR report. If a child cannot file his or her own FBAR for any reason, such as age, the child’s parent, guardian, or other legally responsible

person must file it for the child”. The notion of child being assessed FBAR penalties on their Junior ISA raises a single eyebrow for all, but the requirement to file is clear nonetheless.

Unlike with US tax return filings, there is not an option to include a child’s accounts on a parent or guardian FBAR. A minor child with title to accounts valued greater than $10,000 does need to file an independent report on Form FinCEN 114. In fact, US citizen parents who maintain signature authority over these same accounts may need to report them on their personal foreign bank account report as well so the account may need to be reported twice.

The long-term benefits of helping children to start saving early cannot be denied. Fortunately, optimising tax and reporting considerations in pursuit of this goal is a very real possibility.

Conclusion

The additional layer of complexity surrounding tax decision-making for families may lead parents to question whether to pass these complexities on to their children. While citizenship is often conferred automatically when a child is born abroad to US citizen parents, there are scenarios where parents may be faced with the choice of whether to proactively pursue US citizenship for children who are likely to maintain minimal ties to the country going forward.

Considering the difficulty in predicting how having a US passport may benefit or impact a child in the future, the normal expatriation rules provide relief for children until the age of 18 ½, thus giving them the flexibility to make the decision for themselves in the future without facing exposure to classification as a covered expatriate if they choose to relinquish their US citizenship status.

Despite the potential banking and savings challenges faced by US citizens in general, families who would benefit from child tax credits while living in the United Kingdom may not want to leave this support on the table. Ultimately, this decision is highly personal and must reflect on many details beyond simply tax matters.

Roland A.

Sabates Managing Member, Expat Legal Services Group

Expat Legal Services Group serves the American expat community in the areas of international tax, immigration law, and cross border business and estate planning, leveraging a suite of modern technology solutions.

Contact Expat Legal Services Group today at info@expatlegal.com or visit the website at www.expatlegal.com.

The choice of an attorney is an important decision and should not be based solely on advertising.

WEALTH MANAGEMENT

Team America: The Importance Of Working With US-Aware Advisors In The UK

“Growth is never by mere chance; it is the result of forces working together” - James C

Penney, American Businessman and Entrepreneur, Founder of the JCPenney Stores.

Building a strong team of professional advisors is crucial for people moving to the UK and adjusting to life in a new country. Dealing with financial issues, paperwork and planning can be overwhelming for families that are busy with work commitments and time spent adapting to the culture of their new home. Therefore, it is essential to have a team of trusted advisors who can provide the foundation for dealing with unexpected events, whether positive or negative.

Moving to the UK, and adjusting to how life works across the pond, can be a daunting task. The right team of professionals can provide the foundations for dealing with unexpected events, whether positive or negative, and building the right team from the outset provides the comfort that there is always someone on hand to help.

The UK and the US have enjoyed a ‘special relationship’ for generations that has fostered a healthy tradition of transatlantic migration in both directions. As the relationship has grown and developed, so too have specialist advisory practices like MASECO Private Wealth, who enjoy ‘simplifying the complex’ when it comes to being American and living in the UK or vice versa. Finding the right Wealth Manager is a strong starting point as they often become the ‘quarterback’ of your advisory team. The skill of a good advisor also involves knowing their limits and it remains important to tap into a wider network of professionals in the US-UK space as and when required. Often, experienced advisors for UK clients might be restricted or less qualified in their ability to advise on the US considerations, and it is preferable to work with professionals with a proven track record of helping Americans in the UK. The following are some of the most common situations requiring cohesive teamwork:

1. Tax Compliance:

a. Americans in the UK must consider tax implications from a UK (HM Revenue & Customs (HMRC)) and US (Internal Revenue Service (IRS)) perspective, which often involves working with someone who understands the interplay between the two tax systems by interpreting the US-UK tax treaty and ensuring proper usage of foreign

tax credits. This creates a third field in tax for specialist US-UK advisors, and a good Wealth Manager can introduce you to an appropriate firm.

b. You may benefit from paying taxes in the UK within the calendar year to allow you to file in the US and not overpay taxes, having to reclaim them at a later date. This highlights the potential benefit of working with one firm on both tax returns.

c. Interests in Trusts and company shareholdings often require deeply specialist advice from professionals for dual taxpayers. Your Wealth Manager should be able to flag areas that require closer attention from a tax or legal professional.

2. Estate Planning

a. Families with a transatlantic financial footprint may have to consider inheritance tax and probate in both the US and UK. To avoid any contentious disputes during probate and ensure assets are distributed appropriately, drafting a Will that allows for flexibility in retirement could be sensible. Lawyers that understand both jurisdictions are rare, but your Wealth Manager should know where to find them.

b. Trusts can be effective estate planning tools when set up correctly. As is often the case, what works in the UK for a Briton might not be appropriate for those holding a US passport. Legal and tax professionals with a clear understanding of the US and UK are invaluable when setting up wealth protection vehicles for future generations, as-is your Wealth Manager for ensuring the underlying investments are held in a diversified, taxefficient investment strategy.

c. Life insurance policies established in another jurisdiction may not always remain fit for purpose when you move. Your Wealth Manager can assess the policies from an investment and currency exposure standpoint and bring in professionals on the insurance and tax side to determine whether it might make sense to wind down existing policies or consider a restructure (for instance, migrating them into Trusts) with the help of a specialist lawyer.

3. Purchasing Property:

a. If an American is buying a new home in the UK, they may need a specialist mortgage advisor or credit specialist to help them access the best rates on offer.

b. A US-UK tax advisor might be required to comment on remitting assets to the UK for the purchase, selling down property in another jurisdiction, or to clarify the ongoing US tax implications of taking on and repaying debt in a currency other than the US dollar. There could also be US tax implications of paying down large portions of overseas debt, particularly if the US dollar strengthens over the loan period.

c. Your solicitor might need to consider the legal ownership structure, particularly between US and non-US spouses.

4. Business Ownership:

a. A common theme for US taxpayers in the UK is that not every UK-based solution is fit for purpose, which remains true when it comes to setting up corporate entities.

b. A combination of specialist wealth, legal and tax advice can be a valuable resource for startup creators, legal partners or those looking to transfer their existing businesses across the pond amidst ever evolving regulations.

Families with a transatlantic financial footprint may have to consider inheritance tax and probate in both the US and UK

5. Banking Relationships

a. Private Banks often impose higher than standard minimum cash balances on US individuals living in the UK. Such individuals may benefit from being introduced to lending options against their invested assets, whether in the UK, US or offshore, or to banks that have a wider range of options for Americans living in the UK.

b. Business and personal banking options are available that allow for accounts to be held and payments made in multiple currencies, including the US dollar and Pound Sterling.

6. Charitable Giving

a. Donating can be more tax-efficient for the donor in many cases if they seek the advice of a firm that understands how to create tax-relief from both an IRS and HMRC perspective when making donations in either jurisdiction.

b. For wealthier families, setting up a Foundation or Donor Advised Fund can have a multitude of benefits, from tax-efficient investment to ensuring donations are tax-efficient on both sides of the Atlantic. Specialist firms exist to set up charitable giving solutions fit for dual US-UK taxpayers.

Americans have a natural gift for finding their counterparts when they relocate to the UK, be it through youth softball leagues, Oscar viewing parties, college alumni events, or watching late-night playoff football games on a Sunday down at Passyunk Avenue (in West London… not Philadelphia).

Advice professionals have gleaned some of this similar social spirit, and so firms that enjoy working with Americans in the UK are becoming ever more familiar with one another and will share best practices and recommend clients to work with one another.

This collegiate spirit and specialist network is an important asset, and so whether you are wondering if it makes sense to fund an ISA account like your British neighbours (usually not, unfortunately) or whether an element of your financial plan requires legal or tax advice, your Wealth Manager will be happy to direct you to an appropriate professional for the job and advise on future-proofing your investment portfolios and pensions.

The Legal Stuff

This document may not be forwarded, copied or distributed without our prior written consent. This document has been prepared by MASECO LLP for information purposes only and does not constitute investment, tax or any other type of advice and should not be construed as such. The information contained herein is subject to copyright with all rights reserved.

The views expressed herein do not necessarily reflect the views of MASECO as a whole or any part thereof. All investments involve risk and may lose value. The value of your investment can go down depending upon market conditions and you may not get back the original amount invested. Your capital is always at risk.

Information about potential tax benefits is based on our understanding of current tax law and practice and may be subject to change. The levels and bases of, and reliefs from, taxation is subject to change. The tax treatment depends on the individual circumstances of each person and may be subject to change in the future. MASECO Private Wealth is not a tax specialist. We recommend that anyone considering investing seeks their own tax advice.

MASECO LLP (trading as MASECO Private Wealth) is established as a limited liability partnership under the laws of England and Wales (Companies House No. OC337650) and has its registered office at Burleigh House, 357 Strand, WC2R 0HS. For your protection, telephone calls may be recorded.

MASECO LLP is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority for the conduct of investment business in the UK and is registered in the US with the Securities and Exchange Commission as a Registered Investment Adviser. The individual partners are Mr J E Matthews and Mr J R D Sellon; Mr A Benson, Mr D R B Dorman, Mr H Q A Findlater, Mr E Howison, Mr T Flonaes, Ms A L Solana and Mr N B Tissot.

Ollie Cutting, Wealth Manager, MASECO Private Wealth

Private Banks often impose higher than standard minimum cash balances on US individuals living in the UK

Donating can be more taxefficient for the donor in many cases if they seek the advice of a firm that understands how to create tax-relief from both an IRS and HMRC perspective when making donations in either jurisdiction

HOTEL REVIEW

Four Seasons Hotel, Hampshire

There are certain brands that are synonymous with luxury and quality, and none more so than the name Four Seasons in the Hotel sector. The Four Seasons have luxury hotels all over the world, many occupying wonderful settings, and one such hotel is The Four Seasons hotel in Dogmersfield, Hampshire, which is situated in what used to be, Dogmersfield House.

This country manor has a long history which dates back to the Doomsday Book, and includes frequent visits from 3 English Kings - Henry VI, Henry VII and Henry VIII, and the present Grade 1 Georgian building’s construction was started in 1728, with additional buildings added in the late 18th Century, and the final amendment being relatively recently, when the stable block was converted into an ultra-modern spa and swimming pool.

Although set in 500 acres of rolling Hampshire countryside, the hotel is only a 6-minute trip from Fleet Station where you can reach Waterloo in 55 minutes, or a 53 minute drive from London, so is the perfect weekend retreat for those looking for some much needed rest and relaxation, or an adventure weekend, as there is lots to do and enjoy.

On our drive up to the house we passed their equestrian centre, and on arrival were greeted by the concierge team who whisked away our luggage and took our car to the car park, leaving us to just walk through the marbled entrance hall to the check-in desk. Check-in was swift and efficient and our luggage arrived at our room almost the same time as we did.

The hotel caters for all type of travellers, and so offers a wide range of room choices, from a mews room all the way up to a speciality suite, but regardless of your choice all their rooms are stylish and packed with luxuries to make your visit a special experience. These include thick terry bathrobes and the fluffiest towels you could wish for. What is clever is that the rooms are decorated in the style of a country manor, but alongside these period features the rooms are filled with the latest technology, with premium wifi throughout, wallpaper-thin LG TV’s with satellite TV and on demand movies, chromecast etc., and for me, the bane of my life, a top of the range coffee machine (because I still can’t work out how to use them!).

We had a Grand Manor room with wonderful views over the Hampshire

countryside and in the distance the Basingstoke canal. Our bathroom was enormous with a stand-alone bath tub and a separate shower cubicle with the most powerful power shower that I have ever experienced, and our bed was vast with crisp, fresh sheets - just perfect!

Having settled in, our next stop was the spa area, as my wife was having a massage and I was planning on enjoying the jacuzzi and sauna, hoping the bubbles and heat would melt my stresses away.

The spa is located in the old 18th century stable block, but there is nothing old fashioned here. The large swimming pool is housed in a glass roofed and sided conservatory which provides wonderful natural light to the slate grey tiled pool, with a large relaxation area with padded sun beds at the far end. There is also an outside vitality pool for the more hardy (especially in March!) where the water jets can soothe away the aches and pains of the day. There is also a sauna and steam room, and to guarantee that your experience is relaxing, these areas are child free after certain hours, but for all those parents out there don’t worry, children are more than well catered for.

In keeping with the concept of looking after all types of visitors without impacting on the other guests, there is a separate children’s pool and water play area called ‘Sharkie Reef’, where children can be children and be lively without their parents needing to be constantly worrying about the noise and other adults’ reactions.

Whilst I was enjoying the sauna and braving the sharp Hampshire air in the vitality pool, my wife sampled one of the extensive spa treatments, namely the full body massage, where the therapist weaved their magic and kneaded away her knots! The spa has been beautifully designed, with fresh flowers and dimly lit lighting, oozing relaxation, calm and luxury throughout.

Having whiled away a happy couple of hours at the spa (it also has a modern gym, but I didn’t use that!), it was time for dinner, and our destination was the Wild Carrot restaurant. We passed down the sweeping staircase, and as the bar looked so inviting, decided to have a quick pre-dinner drink. The bar is decorated in such a way that you feel like you are sitting in your own lounge at your country estate having a quick tipple before being called through to dinner (one can dream!).

The Wild Carrot restaurant’s décor is in line with the bar, completing that thought of you dining in your own house and transporting you back to a bygone age where life was slower paced and more relaxed. The service in the restaurant was efficient and friendly and the menu showcases all of the finest local produce Hampshire has to offer, all skilfully and sympathetically prepared by Executive Chef, Talha Barkin, and his team.

After a relaxing night’s sleep, and an excellent English breakfast brimming with sausages, bacon and eggs, along with all the other accompaniments a good English breakfast should have, we decided to enjoy all that is on offer around the estate and maybe walk off a few pounds. There are a considerable number of outdoor pursuits on offer, including horseback riding, clay pigeon shooting, fishing, croquet, tennis and archery, but we opted for a brisk country walk. There are a number of walks available of varying distance and difficulty, and we chose the one that follows the route of the Basingstoke Canal, that runs through the grounds of the hotel.

The Basingstoke Canal, which was built in 1794 to link Basingstoke with the River Thames,

was never really a commercial success, and fell into disrepair until eventually being restored in the 1970’s, which allows guests to now enjoy boat rides along it, making it the perfect backdrop to a lovely walk which takes around 1½ hrs and takes you via a few quaint Hampshire villages (and a lovely village pub!).

It is hard to fully describe how well the Four Seasons look after all of their guests, but I think a good way is that they look after everyone as if they were the only guest staying at the hotel. Our trip was ultrarelaxing, and a great break from the stresses of working life.

For those with families there is so much for the children to do. As well as a wonderful Kids Club with activities for children of all ages, there is also a thrill packed Highwire Adventure which includes high and low rope courses, adrenalin pumping zip lines, a giant see-saw, a parachute simulator, horse riding, and that amazing children friendly swimming pool, with slides and water jets.

As I said at the start, the Four Seasons has a reputation for luxury and quality, and that reputation is based not only on the quality of their hotels, it is also based on the quality of their service, and that is down to their staff, and the fact that nothing is too much trouble for them. Whilst other hospitality business’ service qualities decline due to lack of quality staff, the Four Seasons is a beacon, as the service is impeccable, but unobtrusive and not forced, which is a lovely combination.

For those who need a relaxing break, or a family who want an action-packed break, this is the place for you, and being so close to London, why are you waiting?

Four Seasons, Dogmersfield Park, Chalky Lane, Dogmersfield, Hampshire, RG27 8TD www.fourseasons.com/hampshire

HEALTHCARE

Get To Know Your Gynae

With International Women’s Day in March, it’s the perfect time to shine a spotlight on women’s health and some common conditions that many women will be affected by at some point during their life.

1. Let’s Start With Fibroids

Fibroids are incredibly common benign growths that develop in the womb. They are made of muscle and tissue, can vary in size, and can grow anywhere within the uterus. Around 2 in 3 women will develop at least one fibroid during their lifetime, though they are more prevalent in women aged 30-50.

Many women won’t have any symptoms and it’s very common to find a fibroid during an ultrasound scan which a patient didn’t know about.

When women do have symptoms, these will be influenced by the location, size and number of fibroids. The main, and most common, symptom is heavy periods, but women could also experience painful periods, a feeling of pressure in their tummy, spotting between periods, a frequent need to pee, backache, and leg pain.

2. Moving Onto Ovarian Cysts

Again, ovarian cysts are very common. The vast majority of these are called ‘functional’, which means they develop as part of the usual menstrual cycle, and therefore won’t occur after the menopause. Most of the time, these cysts will disappear on their own within 6 – 12 weeks. They are not dangerous and are absolutely fine to have.

Sometimes, a cyst can bleed or rupture, which can be very painful. Most of the time, this pain will be short-lived and can be managed with painkillers. However, if the pain is intense or doesn’t go away, it’s best to see a doctor and have a scan straight away.

Another type of cyst is called ‘pathological’, and this is more likely to become nasty. These are more common after the menopause, but can happen at any age. Thankfully, they’re not that common, but it’s still very important to have a check-up and see a gynaecologist for advice if you have any symptoms or are worried. Symptoms can include bleeding or spotting, needing to pee often, pain, and a swollen tummy.

Another type of cyst (and the strangest!) is called a dermoid cyst. These are more common in younger women and can be

filled with all sorts of funny things, such as hair, teeth, or sebum (oil that’s found in the skin). These cysts will often develop over a period of years and grow over time. The risk with dermoid cysts is that they can twist, particularly when they grow to a larger size.

When a cyst twists the ovary on itself (ovarian torsion) this can cause sudden, sharp pain, nausea and vomiting. This is an emergency and will require keyhole surgery.

3. What Is PCOS?

PCOS is a common condition that affects how a woman’s ovaries work.

The 3 main features of PCOS are:

1. Irregular periods

2. Hormone imbalances in your body

3. Polycystic ovaries – ovaries which contain many fluid-filled sacs (follicles) that surround the eggs.

PCOS can make it harder to get pregnant, cause weight gain and acne, lead to excessive hair growth – usually on the face, chest, back or bum, as well as hair loss from the head.

PCOS is also associated with an increased risk of developing health problems in later life, such as type 2 diabetes and high cholesterol. The good news is that it’s very treatable, and can be managed with both lifestyle changes and a medical management plan.

Did You Know?

Waiting times for gynaecology care have trebled in the past decade, with more than 540,000 women in the UK facing extremely long waits for gynaecology care.*

Over this time, the average waiting time to see a gynaecologist has also increased, with many women waiting almost five months (18 weeks) for an appointment.

Gynaecological issues can cause extremely distressing symptoms. Waiting months for help, often not knowing what’s wrong, only adds unnecessary stress and suffering.

*as of October 2022

Help Is At Hand

No matter where you are in your health journey; whether you’re looking to have a routine check-up or have a diagnosed condition that needs treating, St John & St Elizabeth Hospital’s Gynaecology Clinic can help. Their compassionate consultants are all experts in their field and available to help without a wait.

If you are experiencing any symptoms or would like some advice, call their friendly team on 020 7806 4098

Find out more: www.hje.org.uk/gynaecology

A Hospital With A Heart

Founded in 1856, St John & St Elizabeth Hospital is one of the UK’s largest independent charitable hospitals. All treatments in the hospital help fund the

onsite St John’s Hospice, which provides free care to over 4,500 people and their families each year, across seven boroughs.

Thanks to Mr Yinka Akinfenwa, Ms Sasha Maitra and Mr Joseph Aquilina, Consultant Gynaecologists who practice at St John & St Elizabeth Hospital, for sharing their expert knowledge.

St John & St Elizabeth Hospital, 60 Grove End Road, London, NW8 9NH

PROPERTY Living In Chelsea

Located on the north bank of the River Thames in South West London, Chelsea is as popular today as it has been for centuries. Its excellent shopping, dining and cultural activities, along with world-class schools, make Chelsea super desirable. It’s been home to royalty, celebrities, artists and musicians, and its interesting history gives it a certain kudos.

Chelsea: Favourite Of The Rich And Famous

Royal figures have been attracted to the Chelsea neighbourhood for centuries. King Henry VIII bought a Manor House there to house former wives. Elizabeth I was a fan of the area, and it’s said that mulberry trees she planted remain in Cheyne Mews.

In the 20th century, legendary musicians including The Rolling Stones, The Beatles, Bob Marley and Elton John lived in the area. These days, it’s home to London’s largest American expatriate community.

Shopping & Attractions

Along the famous Kings Road, you’ll find everything from luxury boutiques and designer fashion stores to emerging independent brands, high street favourites

and pop ups. The weekend farmers’ market is the place for seasonal and artisan produce. It’s also a great spot for beautiful interior design brands. Plus, there’s the smart department store, Peter Jones.

There’s a vibrant art scene in the area. Various galleries, including the Charles Saatchi gallery, showcase contemporary artists and art fairs are held throughout the year. The Royal Court Theatre – known as the writers’ theatre – is a leading destination for the undiscovered, emerging and established playwright.

The world famous Chelsea Football Club play at Stamford Bridge, near Fulham Broadway.

Where To Eat

Café culture abounds in Chelsea and you’re never far from somewhere to grab a coffee and watch the bustling world go by. You’ll find everything from delis and fast food to fine dining. Al fresco dining at Bluebird is a must. And the Michelin-starred Bibendum and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay are coveted places to dine.

Parks & Leisure Space

This South West London enclave is not only in bloom during the annual Chelsea Flower

Show. Chelsea has numerous green spaces in which to relax, unwind and enjoy. In fact, over 30 parks are managed by the Royal Borough of Kensington & Chelsea. These include Chelsea Physic Garden which is London’s oldest Botanic Garden.

Getting Around

Chelsea is bordered by Kensington, Brompton, Fulham, and the River Thames to the south. It’s five miles from the City and only 2 miles from Westminster.

There’s an underground station at Sloane Square with South Kensington and Fulham Broadway as further options nearby. There are many bus routes via Chelsea. The Thames Path offers a scenic route into the city or along to the west by bike or on foot. You can also take a boat along the river to Canary Wharf.

Schools

There’s an impressive range of education options in the area – both independent and state schools, from nursery to sixth form. Those with ‘Outstanding’ ratings include Oratory Roman Catholic Primary School, Christ Church CofE Primary School and London Oratory School. Local independent schools include The Hampshire School Chelsea and Francis Holland School on Sloane Square.

Property In Chelsea

You’ll find some of the finest property in London in Chelsea. Georgian and Victorian buildings are typical of the area. From white stucco fronted townhouses to portered red brick mansion blocks and mews houses, there’s something to suit everyone. On the waterfront, there are world-class new developments offering stylish apartments with views over the river.

Knight Frank’s Relocation Service

We understand that moving home can be a stressful and time-consuming process, even without the added challenges of moving to a different country. Our relocation team is here to help you start this new chapter smoothly. Our bespoke service is available with no cost or obligations and full access to London’s property market, to ensure your experience is as seamless as possible.

John Humphris, FARLA Partner, Department Head Head of Corporate & Relocation Services

John has extensive experience across the residential markets and in particular in Prime Central London having worked

for Private and institutional clients. His experience at Knight Frank includes having run two offices in Hyde Park and Marylebone and is passionate about providing great service and results for clients, and being the go-to for any property needs however diverse they may be. John is backed up by his Relocation & Corporate services team ideally placed to help any international or expatriate clients coming to London or the UK for the first time.

T: 020 7861 1145

E: John.Humphris@knightfrank.com www.knightfrank.com

TAKE FIVE Eating With History

by Judith Schrut

“One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating”.–

Luciano Pavarotti

Although born and bred in California, I’ve lived in Great Britain most of my adult life. One of my all time favourite things about living here is being close to so many incredible layers of history and tradition. That’s not something you’re likely to find on the US West Coast.

And if, like me, you also love to eat, what could be more satisfying than enjoying a delicious meal with a side of history? “People who love to eat are always the best people”, quipped beloved American chef Julia Child, while British author Virginia Woolf said, “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well”. Or, as the late, great actor-director Orson Welles put it: “Ask not what you can do for your country. Ask what’s for lunch”. For this issue’s Take Five, we invite you step back in time and sample five flavoursome ways to feast on history.

1. Timeless Temptations: The Wolseley, Piccadilly

There’s a long and fascinating history behind the Wolseley Café Restaurant’s iconic building at 160 Piccadilly. It all started just over a century ago, in 1921, when then giants of the car-making world, Wolseley Motors, commissioned architect William Curtis Green to design a luxury car showroom for its site at 160 Piccadilly. Green’s grand, award-winning creation could be summed up in three words: Art – Deco – Opulence,

with its walls of polished Portland stone, Italianate domed ceilings, Doric columns and elaborate black and white marble floors laid out like a giant puzzle.

These were early days for Britain’s motor industry and success didn’t quite keep up with the company’s lofty ambitions. In 1926, Wolseley Motors went bust, leaving the grand pillars and lofty archways behind.

Barclays Bank soon bought the site, re-employing architect Green for some stylish re-design, including the addition of swish and colourful Japanese lacquer flourishes. By 1927, the car showroom was re-born as an extremely fancy bank, nicknamed “Piccadilly’s Shining Pearl”.

Fast-forward to 2003, when 160 Piccadilly began yet another life, this time as the Wolseley Café Restaurant. Whilst retaining most features of Green’s triumphant art deco design, it soon became one of Britain’s favourite modern eateries and London’s first ‘Grand Café’. The Wolseley quickly gained, and has since maintained, a reputation for all day opening, an eye-poppingly wide menu, sumptuous surroundings and celeb-spotting status. With its vast marbled floors, mirrored walls, giant balcony clock and timeless elegance, you may think you’ve been transported to a rail station brasserie in Vienna, Paris or Budapest.

Over the years the Wolseley has won many awards and accolades, particularly for its splendid breakfasts, about which late critic and adoring diner AA Gill wrote, “Nothing can compare to the glory of the Full English”.

Today, the Wolseley continues to bring alimentary joy to a steady stream of over 1000 diners daily, seven days a week, from early morning ‘til late at night. They come

from around the world or just around the corner, including one local business gent who has breakfasted here every morningsame time, same table, same spread - for as long as anyone can remember.

Having breakfasted, brunched, tea-timed and lunched at the Wolseley on numerous occasions, I was overdue to take on the Wolseley at dinner time.

Even on the bleak mid-winter Monday of our visit, the restaurant was packed with preValentine couples, award-winning thespians, notable politicians and a jetlagged crowd of tourists enjoying the Wolseley’s Afternoon Tea experience at 7.30pm. The Wolseley takes pride in making customers happy, whatever the hour.

It’s no overstatement to say that what the Wolseley does it does exceptionally well. That means classic European dishes

Breakfast at the Wolseley, photo courtesy The Wolseley Hospitality Group

The Wolseley, Interior, photo courtesy The Wolseley Hospitality Group

The Wolseley’s Coupe Lucian, in honour of the late Lucian Freud, photo courtesy The Wolseley Hospitality Group

in traditional style: Hungarian Goulash with Spätzle, Weiner Schnitzel, Coq au Vin are all perpetual favourites. British and American dishes are equally well represented: Smoked Haddock Kedgeree, Welsh Rarebit, Dressed Dorset Crab; Eggs Benedict; French Toast with Maple Syrup, Chicken Soup and Salt Beef Bagel.

Breakfast, lunch, Afternoon Tea, special occasion meals, cocktails: it all adds up to a nostalgic style of dining so many crave while serving food that still manages to surprise and impress.

My Fish of the Day mains was terrific in every way: fresh sea bass, its deliciously crispy skin contrasting beautifully with the soft pearlescent flesh beneath, parting just enough to reveal velvety spears of salsify and sweet leaves of sautéed kale. My dining companion’s Seared Scallops with fennel and chive butter was equally ace. And everything tasted just that little bit better when presented with the grace, attention and warmth of Wolseley staff, like our server and proud Galician, Xaquin.

The joys of the Wolseley extends to its dessert menu, including several housemade ice cream concoctions. We caught sight of the Lucian Coupe, created in honour of late British artist Lucian Freud, a frequent Wolseley diner (Table 35) and ice cream lover. I opted for the New York-style Vanilla Cheesecake and the tastiest pistachio ice cream this side of Italy. My companion revelled in his Apfel Strudel, a sensuous meeting of buttery, flaky pastry, patchworked layers of apple and Calvadosinfused whipped cream. An elegant glass teapot of fresh chamomile flowers made my perfect finish, while my companion declared his Doppio “one of the most intense experiences of my life…the kind of coffee that would have the men standing at espresso bars in Naples flat on their backs”.

The Wolseley Café Restaurant

160 Piccadilly, London thewolseley.com

2. Scrumptious-By-TheSea: Burnt Orange, Brighton

Next up, a day trip by train to a famous seaside town, a lazy afternoon strolling retro promenades and vintage piers, sampling fish and chips, coffees and cakes, getting gloriously lost in a maze of ancient streets followed by dinner at a tasty and reasonablypriced restaurant before boarding the last train home. We’re talking about Brighton, of course.

Brighton is best known for its Regencystyle houses, which sprang up from the late 18th century, when the Prince Regent (later King George IV) made the town wildly fashionable. In line with medical advice of the time, that bathing in the freezing cold sea could cure all ills, George came here to ‘take the waters’ and to be with his mistress and secret wife, Maria Fitzherbert. The overindulgent Prince ordered an extravagant

pleasure palace, the Royal Pavilion, built as his seaside retreat, complete with eccentric Oriental domes and minarets.

But the town’s history goes much farther back than that, first as an early Anglo-Saxon settlement, then a prosperous fishing port and later a resort for the wealthy and stylish.

Brighton is made for walking and wandering. The heart of the old town is known as The Lanes, stretching from the Royal Pavilion to the sea. With its narrow alleyways (called ‘twittens’), cafés, jewellery and antique shops, The Lanes is a fascinating area to explore. Its buildings are a jumble of ages and styles: from the Cricketers Arms, built in 1545 and still a popular pub, to the Victorian Hippodrome Theatre, once the most popular variety theatre in town, now under restoration, at which both the Beatles and the Rolling Stones famously performed to screaming, sell-out crowds in 1964. Look out too for some interesting religious buildings: the Quaker Friends’ Meeting House built in 1805, the 1874 neo-Byzantine Middle Street Synagogue, St Paul’s, built as a mission church for fishermen in 1848, and Fabrica, a church turned arts venue. Cutting through the centre of all this you’ll find Middle Street, and a rather special culinary destination, Burnt Orange

Burnt Orange hit Brighton’s hip and vibrant food scene just as it was emerging from the Covid pandemic. Restauranteur Razak Helalat’s fourth Brighton eaterie is a cosy neighbourhood restaurant with a garden terrace and late night bar, smack in the heart of The Lanes and moments from the seafront. In its first year of opening, Burnt Orange came top in the prestigious, public votebased BRAVO Restaurant awards, as well as entering Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand, a coveted award for select restaurants with both good quality and good value cooking.

Thanks to brilliant Head Chef, Peter Dantanus, Burnt Orange’s food is deliciously modern and inventive, but make no mistake, you’re dining in one of the oldest streets of Brighton. Formerly a 16th century coaching inn, the now-restaurant takes its place alongside other venerable buildings on Middle Street.

If you’re ravenous but undecided, just follow the Burnt Orange mantra: “Leave the selections to us and we will send a delectable spread of dishes to share - no break in conversation required”.

For the adventurous gastronome, the ‘Burnt Orange Experience’ is the way to go. This seasonally changing menu features the best of the best. The Experience hits the ground running with a sensational Woodfired Flatbread in a rich bath of sesame brown butter and a whisper of za’atar. With difficulty we resisted seconds, as this was swiftly followed by a memorable assortment of sharing dishes, dips and sauces. No doubt you’ll have your favourites, but we were particularly entranced by the tangy, crispy, spiced Calamari Fritti with preserved lemon aioli, the Woodfired Sea Bream with its ravishing basil-mango dressing, Grilled Sussex Halloumi with orange blossom honey and pine nuts, and Smoked Pumpkin, Sage and Chilli with brown butter, a spirited variation on the hummus theme. All these dishes and more are also available à la carte.

Burnt Orange takes its drinks list seriously. When my dining companion mentioned she wasn’t drinking alcohol, manager Charlene and the hospitable staff team were only too delighted to offer her one of everything from its ‘Drivers’ Choice’ menu. This refreshing and original range of mocktails includes Midnight Sun (non-alcoholic gin, lavender syrup, egg white) and Cherry Blossom Brew (Earl Grey tea, cherry syrup, vanilla syrup, lemon juice, egg white).

Burnt Orange is the kind of restaurant that has you planning your return long before you’ve finished eating. If you really need an excuse for visiting Brighton, let this be it.

Burnt Orange

59 Middle Street, Brighton burnt-orange.co.uk

Burnt Orange, Brighton, Photography by James French, courtesy Tonic Communications

The fabulous flavours of Burnt Orange, Photography by Valerie Spence

3. Flavours of the Raj: Jamavar, Mayfair

There’s history in every bite, slice and piquant mouthful at Jamavar, the Indian fine dining restaurant in London’s Mayfair. It was created here in 2016 by father-daughter duo Dinesh and Samyukta Nair, founding family members of India’s renowned Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts. In its young lifetime, Jamovar has already been honoured with a Michelin Star, Michelin Plaque and listings in the GB & Ireland Michelin Guide.

The restaurant may be a mere youth and its vibe thoroughly modern, but Jamavar’s distinctive design, décor and menu ooze history and heritage. Jamavar is named for the intricate handwoven lace shawls of 16th century Kashmir. Inspired by the Viceroy’s House, the dining rooms feature colonial flourishes, inlaid mother of pearl artwork and traditional Indian pieces in black marble, while a subterranean Games Room celebrates ancient Indian games like Chaturanga and Paschisi

Manager Ashish, who relocated last year from New Delhi, embodies all the qualities of the perfect restaurant manager: knowledgeable, utterly charming and bursting with pride in, and passion for, the restaurant, the staff team and, of course, the food.

Ah…the food. “It is created from a love and respect for regional dishes from the royal kitchens of Northern India to the

coastal cuisine of the Southern States”, Samyukta Nair told us, “as well as recipes passed down from my grandmother, Leela”.

The results are simply stunning. My dining companion and I were easily persuaded to try several unforgettable signature dishes, each a work of art in its own right, other-worldly in both fragrance and flavour. All have been given a creative spark and exquisite finishing touches by Executive Chef Surender Mohan, using the freshest ingredients and authentic cooking techniques.

We had the pleasure and privilege of meeting Chef Mohan. A soft spoken, unassuming man, he’s worked with the founding family for over 30 years. “It’s an especially huge achievement to be awarded a Michelin star”, he expressed, “as we are an Indian restaurant but this is not India”.

If after the first intoxicating read of Jamavar’s menu, you feel the urge to try everything, then its palate-busting ‘Tasting Menu’ is a must, ideally accompanied by the select wine flight. Among its many standouts for us were the Paneer Palak Ke Goolar , an edible wonder of paneer, figs, walnut mustard yogurt, the Tellicherry Pepper & Garlic Soft Shell Crab, and the plump and heavenly Malai Stone Bass, balanced on a cloud of mace, green cardamom, avocado and mint chutney.

Jamavar’s Butter Chicken and its Black Daal are also must-tastes. Chef Mohan explained, “both the Butter Chicken and the Black Daal are timeless staples in Indian cuisine. I’m originally from Old Delhi and have grown up eating these dishes my whole life; for Jamavar London, I developed my own techniques and refined these classics”. The chicken needs eight hours of preparation to arrive at its characteristic blend of flavours, while the daal slow-cooks for 24 hours.

Oh, a word of warning. No matter how full you may feel, Chef Mohan won’t let you leave without sampling his gorgeous signature desserts, such as Winter Berries Rasmalai and Pistachio Milk Cake

Jamavar

8 Mount Street, London W1 jamavarrestaurants.com

4. Goin’ To The Chapel: Chapel Café, Port Isaac

After ten seasons and nearly 20 years, Doc Martin, the world’s favourite grumpy TV doctor, has finally delivered his last baby, hung up his suit, tie and stethoscope and closed his Portwenn surgery door behind him. But mourn not, you can always catch a back episode or ten on Acorn TV, Netflix, and the like, or re-live episodes with fellow Doc fans on Portwennonline.com . Even better, why not visit the real Portwenn in England’s westernmost county of Cornwall and see for yourself?

Cornwall has long been a popular filming location, especially when quaint fishing villages, ancient castles and windswept coastal cliffs are called for. Cornwall-based TV shows include Poldark, House of the Dragon and the Camomile Lawn, while the Witches , James Bond’s Never Say Never Again and Die another Day, and the Beatles’ Magical Mystery Tour, are amongst Cornish movie gems.

Doc Martin takes place in the fictional seaside village of Portwenn and was filmed in and around the honest-to-goodness seaside village of Port Isaac , a small and picture-perfect harbourside hamlet complete with the requisite windswept clifftops, magical sunsets and Doc Martin maps, souvenirs and guided tour offers in every shop window.

Port Isaac was registered as a fishing village in 1340. Its pier dates back to the reign of Henry VIII. There’s been pilchard fishing and a brisk trade in stone, ore, salt and fish here since the 15th century. Fishermen still download their catch in the harbour and sell it off ice in the old fish cellars. The village’s historic centre is densely packed with whitewashed cottages, characterful pubs and steep, twisty alleyways, including the world’s narrowest thoroughfare, Squeezy Belly Alley

A few minutes down the hillside from Doc’s surgery on Roscarrock Hill , with a

History and heritage take centre stage at Jamavar, photograph courtesy of Jamavar & Fraser Communications

A Jamavar collage of flavours, textures and colours, photography by Shawn Scott

Port Isaac’s ancient Harbour, photograph by Judith Schrut

Interior, Chapel Cafe, Port Isaac

vista over the breathtakingly picturesque harbour and out to sea, you’ll come to the Chapel Café. This Grade II-listed converted Methodist Chapel, replete with original altar and musical organ, is the perfect place to rest your Portwenn-weary limbs and indulge in a satisfying lunch or Afternoon Tea.

The Café’s chapel walls ring out with local history. Like much of Cornwall, Port Isaac was a fiercely Methodist village. John Wesley, Methodism’s 18th century founder, was a big fan of Cornwall in general and Port Isaac in particular, calling it ‘the liveliest place in the Methodist Circuit’. He visited many times, arriving on horseback, rain or shine, to preach outdoors to huge, adoring crowds.

Last year, 20-year old Kaci Sutton followed her dream and took over the Café’s lease from its retiring owners. She now runs the popular Café, along with its art gallery, gift shop and social events programme, with the help of Mum Tara and a loyal staff team.

It’s an ideal spot to enjoy a traditional Cornish Cream Tea or other customer favourites, like homemade fish finger sandwiches, in the chapel pulpit or in the Café’s cheerful, light-drenched dining room. The Café has a reputation for exceptional dog-friendliness, so rest assured that your four-legged friends will also be well catered for. They’ll find doggie biscuits, puppucinos and cosy dog beds galore, plus the opportunity to take home a knit jacket or other fur-friendly goodies from Kaci’s lovingly and well-stocked dog accessory shop.

The Chapel Café

Roscarrock Hill

Port Isaac, Cornwall

5. Musical Mouthfuls: Piazza, Royal Opera House

Whether you’re supping before tonight’s opera or just feeling peckish after a leisurely stroll around Covent Garden, a melodious menu awaits you at Piazza, Royal Opera House . Located in the heart of Covent Garden, Piazza is a chic and welcoming space perched high atop the Opera House and overlooking what was once London’s most famous fruit, vegetable and flower market. In addition to the historical splendour of the Royal Opera House (ROH) itself, the Covent Garden setting means you are following in the footsteps of George Bernard Shaw’s Pygmalion and My Fair Lady’s Eliza Doolittle, numerous Charles

Dickens characters and the murderer in Hitchcock’s Frenzy

Now a luxurious shopping and dining spot, Covent Garden’s origins were much more humble. As early as 1200, it was a vast walled ‘convent garden’ of orchards, meadows and fields tended by the Benedictine monks of Westminster Abbey. By the 1650s, it had morphed into a rowdy, bustling market, earning notoriety for its taverns, coffee houses, gambling dens and brothels. Those in the know carried a copy of Harris’s List of Covent Garden Ladies, the “essential guide and accessory for any serious gentleman of pleasure”.

Meanwhile, its prime location and the fact that it had somehow survived unscathed from both the devastating plague in 1665 and the Great Fire of London in 1666, made Covent Garden a magnet for aristocrats, artists and culture lovers. It had two of the earliest and most popular theatres in London. Architect Inigo Jones designed its innovative central square, the Piazza, in 1630, the first modern square in London, inspired by the grand squares of continental Europe. By the 18th century, Covent Garden had become both hovel and upper crust hangout, home to patricians, paupers and prostitutes, the main centre of London’s cultural life and the largest produce market in the world.

The ROH site, originally known as the Theatre Royal, has been staging top tier performances since 1732. The present building dates from 1858, rebuilt after disastrous fires in 1808 and again in 1856, and is home to The Royal Opera, The Royal Ballet, and The Orchestra of the Royal Opera House

As a world-best hub for opera, ballet and music, the ROH has hosted artistic greats of every era, from dancers Rudolf Nureyev and Margot Fonteyn to operatic idols Maria Callas and Plácido Domingo; from musical directors George Frideric Handel and Sir Georg Solti to the charismatic current head, Anthony Pappano.

So, Piazza, the restaurant, is a relative newcomer to the age-old Covent Garden scene. It prides itself on celebrating the best

of contemporary British cuisine while at the same time connecting with the deep heritage of its location. That translates to seasonallychanging menus showcasing fresh market produce as well as imaginative use of offcuts and other ingredients that might otherwise go to waste. It means sustainable and careful sourcing from London and local suppliers. Even staff uniforms are made responsibly and ethically, from materials like recycled plastic and bamboo.

On the evening of our visit, as lovely Manager, Eleanor, and Head Waiter, Christian, led my dining companion and me to our table, we passed jawdropping displays of historic costumes, ballet shoes, original costume sketches and photos of stage superstars. We chose to dine in Piazza’s comfortable, open plan dining room with its fascinating outlook inside the Opera House, but would have been equally delighted to dine in the sweeping, glassed-in terrace with panoramic views across Covent Garden below.

Piazza at the Royal Opera House Covent Garden, London roh.org.uk/eat-and-drink/piazza

Take Five is our quarterly feature bringing the best of British to Americans in Britain. A special thanks to Val, Shawn, Josh, Emeric and our fabulous friends at Tonic and Fraser Communications. I’d love to hear about your favourite taste of history and share it with our readers - email Judith at judith0777@gmail.com.

The enterprising Kaci Sutton and her Chapel Cafe team, Port Isaac

Royal Opera House exterior ©2018 ROH, photograph by Luke Hayes

A delicious tribute to Covent Garden’s historic market days, Piazza Restaurant, Royal Opera House, photograph by Charlie McKay

HIDDEN LONDON TOURS

Everyone knows that London has a multitude of wonderful and interesting places, but what people might not know is that it also has a fascinating world below the ground that is waiting to be explored.

The London’s Underground system is the world’s first underground passenger railway opening in 1863, with a tunnel between Farringdon and Paddington, using gas-lit wooden carriages hauled by steam locomotives. From these humble beginnings the network we know today was developed and expanded over the next 150 years, and it is a little known fact that the London Underground is actually 55% overground! Over these 150 years there have been many new stations built and many stations closed, and a multitude of track is now disused, and it is those disused parts that form the basis of these hidden tours in conjunction with the London Transport Museum.

These tours are special, as they grant guests access to these disused sites which are usually off limits to the public, and there is a choice of in-person tours as well as some virtual tours to choose from.

There are a number of virtual tours available, visiting disused stations such as York Road and Brompton Road, as well as the modern Elizabeth Line stations of Tottenham Court Road and Liverpool Street, but for me it is the in-person tours which are more exciting as you are physically there to experience everything for yourself.

The in-person tours include, Aldwych ‘The abandoned ticket halls, lifts and tunnels’, which was closed in 1994, and the disused

Jubilee Line platforms of Charing Cross which were closed in 1999, which you may well remember from the film Skyfall or Paddington Bear, but the tour we went on was the Down Street: Churchill’s Secret Station (Adults £90).

Those of you who know your London Underground stations will know that Down Street is not a station on the present tube system, as it closed in 1932 due to light use and its proximity to Green Park, but it came into its own again as part of the war effort in 1939. It was believed that in the event of a war, the railway network would be vital to the UK’s war effort, as it was the main form of transport for people and goods, including munitions, and so the Railway Executive Committee (REC) was formed on 24 September 1938, as a response to the increasing threats from Hitler’s Germany.

This important committee had its headquarters near Whitehall, but needed a safer place to work from as it needed to be safe from enemy bombs, so they decided that Down Street station would be the perfect location as it was central, and as it was under-ground it was safe from the bombs and gas attacks above (once they had fitted blast and gas doors). The station was therefore converted to offices and living areas where the committee and it staff lived and worked for 3-week stints at a time, and it is this that you visit on this tour.

As you descend down the central spiral stairway into the depths, you start to realise what a sacrifice the workers

here made, as they had to live and work underground for 3 weeks at a time, and although they were fed well, the lack of fresh air and day light must have been terrible.

The tour takes you around the conversions that were made to the station to make it habitable, and the guides paint a vivid picture of how it used to be, as once the war was over everything that could be taken back to the surface, was.

Over the rumblings of the Piccadilly Line trains that pass less than a metre from you regularly, you are transformed into the world of the war years by the knowledgeable guides, and you also learn about the station’s links with Churchill himself, as he had part of the station redesigned so he could stay there himself to avoid the bombings.

The tour takes about 1½ hours and tells the fascinating story of how a disused tube station played a vital part in the UK’s war effort until it was closed again for the last time on the 31st December, 1947.

One final point to mention is that there are a number of stairs to negotiate, as the lifts were removed many years ago, so you do need to be somewhat mobile, and as you are going into a disused station there are many narrow corridors, so do wear suitable clothes, and maybe not your best boots and coat, as we did!

All of these tours are available to book from the London Transport Museum website www.ltmuseum.co.uk/hiddenlondon and as groups are kept small (so you get the best experience) booking early is recommended.

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AMERICAN CLUBS’ NEWS

Junior League Of London Group

continued to be well attended. Books read included A House for Mr Biswas, and walks around Buckinghamshire were much enjoyed. Much hilarity ensued on the Hurley hike when discussing the merits of a ‘Mormon’ church. Confusion reigned until it became clear it was a ‘Norman’ church we were viewing.

We have exciting activities and events scheduled for the next few months. All the usual activities will be taking place, including our always popular May Tea Party and our end of Club year event in June. Silver jewellery making workshops are planned and our Charity Christmas Bazaar Committee is starting to plan this year’s Bazaar in November.

If you would like more information about our Club, please email: cawcpruk@gmail.com.

AWC London

The AWC London will be hosting new member meetings on the following dates:

April 3 (The V & A museum café @ 10:30 am)

April 25th (The Kings Arms @ 6;30 pm)

May 1st (The V & A Museum café @ 10:30) For more information please email: membership@awclondon.org.

CAWC International

CAWC International has been extremely busy organising activities and events. We had a very successful trip to the Stoke on Trent Potteries. This is always a favourite outing and one that is very much part of our calendar. We have had some fabulous speakers at our General Meetings. We welcomed Naomi Riches, MBE, to our General Meeting where she gave a wonderfully moving and inspiring talk about her journey that resulted in her winning a gold medal at the 2012 Paralympic Games. We also welcomed back Drew Bennett, international wild life photographer. His first talk was so popular with members we had to invite him back to hear more about his adventures.

As we have a number of members who work during the day we have been introducing more evening activities. Ali, our Hospitality Co-ordinator organises a wonderful drinks evening for newcomers at a local café, and Niki, one of our members, organised a colour analysis evening. Bunco, a regular evening event, continued to be very popular.

Other activities such as Tennis, Golf, Book Club, Bible Study, Lunch Club, Country Walks

KCWC

KCWC is an organisation of international women who want to enjoy everything London has to offer. We offer many activities, special events, as well as regular General Meeting Speaker Series.

We appeal not only to expatriates and to those new to London, but also to those who want to experience the UK at its best. We have something for everyone, during the day or evening.

Enjoy more than 30 different activities including languages, art history, book group, walks, museum visits, and much more. Participate in our special events and meet with prestigious speakers. Enjoy special discounts through our membership benefits.

KCWC hosts regular General Meetings, to hear high profile guest speakers. On 12 May, we welcome James Clutton, Chief Executive and Director of Opera at Holland Park Opera, as our guest speaker at the Royal Geographical Society. On Wednesday

7th June, KCWC celebrates with the 40th Anniversary Luncheon at the Landsdowne Club. If you would like to join us at these KCWC events, then please contact: info@kcwc.org.uk to register.

KCWC has many special events for our members in 2023. We invite you to log onto www.kcwc.org.uk to explore our website and the many activities on offer. Join KCWC to experience friendship and the best of London. For more information contact: info@kcwc.org.uk or marketing@kcwc.org.uk.

If you are a member of an American Expatriate Club and would like to share your news, events and photographs with fellow Americans in the UK, please email ben@theamericanhour.com

BRITAIN

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To apply for your free subscription please complete this form and return to us at Subscriptions Department, American in Britain, PO Box 921, Sutton SM1 2WB or email your details to helen@theamericanhour.com.

USEFUL CONTACTS

CHARITABLE GIVING

CAF AMERICAN DONOR FUND

10 St Bride Street

London

EC4A 4AD

Contact: Joe Crome, Senior Manager, CAF American Donor Fund

Telephone: +44 (0) 3000 123 150

(Telephone lines are open Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm excluding UK bank holidays).

Email: cadf@cafonline.org

Website www.cafonline.org/cadf

With over 20 years’ experience, we are the smart, tax-effective way for dual UK and US taxpayers to achieve greater impact with their charitable giving.

The CAF American Donor Fund is a dual qualified Donor Advised Fund which can help you maximise the value of your gifts to charitable organisations. If you pay tax in the UK and the US, the CAF American Donor Fund enables you to claim eligible UK and US tax relief on your global giving, including adding 25% through UK Gift Aid where applicable.

We have a range of flexible products available, starting at one-off giving through to long-term invested funds. We accept donations of cash (any major currency); stocks and shares as well as non-cash gifts.

Whatever stage you’re at with your philanthropy journey, we can help. Our specialist team of Relationship Managers will be with you every step of the way to guide you quickly and efficiently throughout the management and administration of your giving, using our established and trusted service.

EDUCATION - SCHOOLS

TASIS THE AMERICAN SCHOOL IN ENGLAND

Coldharbour Lane, Thorpe, Surrey, TW20 8TE

Contact: Sarah Travis

Telephone: 01932 582316

Email: ukadmissions@tasisengland.org

Website www.tasisengland.org

The educational pathways TASIS England offers to day (3-18) and boarding (13-18) students include a broad-based American curriculum, AP courses, the International Baccalaureate Diploma, and EAL support. Taught in small classes, every student in our diverse community from 50 nations is encouraged to reach their academic potential. Participation in co-curricular activities, the arts, athletics, and leadership programs provides balance, fosters curiosity, and develops Individual talents. With excellent exam results and one-to-one

college counseling, 97% of TASIS graduates gain acceptance to their first- or secondchoice university in the US, the UK, and worldwide. Extensive summer opportunities are also offered to students from all schools. Located close to London on a beautiful and historic 46-acre estate.

TAXATION

BUZZACOTT LLP

130 Wood Street, London, EC2V 6DL

Contact: Carlo Gray

Partner - Expatriate Tax Services team

Telephone: +44 (0)20 7556 1200

Email: enquiries@buzzacott.co.uk

Website: www.buzzacott.co.uk

Buzzacott is a top 20 UK accountancy firm in London, with a team in Hong Kong. For more than 50 years, our dual-qualified US/UK tax experts have helped individuals, companies, partnerships and trusts to comply with everincreasing tax regulations and minimise their tax liabilities. We specialise in preparing US/UK tax returns and providing bespoke advice tailored to individual circumstances. Rely on us for exceptional service with empathy and authenticity.

EXPAT

LEGAL SERVICES GROUP

Website: Expatlegal.com

Telephone: 1.888.502.8579

Contact: Roland Sabates

Email: roland@expatlegal.com

Expat Legal Services Group, with its background in international taxation, offers unique legal services for American expatriates and foreign nationals with financial interests in the United States. We leverage a suite of modern technology solutions that enable us to bring our international expertise directly to you no matter where in the world you might be living.

USTAXFS

3 Harbour Exchange Square, London, E14 9GE

Telephone: +44 20 7357 8220

Contact: Joni Trulock

Email: j.trulock@ustaxfs.com

Website: ustaxfs.com

Twitter: @ustaxfs

With over 35 years’ experience, our US/UK expat tax specialists provide US and UK tax return preparation, planning, compliance, and expatriation as well as all US business tax services, wherever you are in the world.

WEALTH MANAGEMENT

LONDON & CAPITAL

Two Fitzroy Place, 8 Mortimer Street, London, W1T 3JJ

Telephone: +44 (0) 207 396 3200

Email: invest@londonandcapital.com

Website: londonandcapital.com

The core of our expertise at London & Capital is managing investments for wealthy families and our clients generally share similar requirements; they have amassed wealth or capital and now need it to be structured and invested in a way that preserves and grows it for the future. We build investment strategies that are designed to be resilient and help clients achieve their long-term financial goals. Many of our clients are international, with finances, business interests, property and family across multiple countries. We provide clear comprehensive financial strategies and global reporting regardless of currency or location.

US CONNECTED FAMILIES AND INDIVIDUALS

We are also one of the few wealth managers who actively welcome US clients and are both SEC (US) and FCA (UK) regulated, with a dedicated team looking after the wealth of international American families since 1989. Whether you are a US Citizen or Green Card holder living abroad, a British expat in the US or a foreign entity with US reporting, we are uniquely positioned to work you to organise your wealth into a coherent global strategy, invest with a focus on capital preservation and provide clear, concise global reporting.

MASECO PRIVATE WEALTH

Burleigh House, 357 Strand, London, WC2R 0HS

Telephone: +44 (0)20 7043 0455

Email: enquiries@masecopw.com

Website: www.masecoprivatewealth.com

MASECO Private Wealth gives peace of mind by providing expert guidance to US families on how to simplify their cross-border wealth management needs. We serve and care for Americans living at home or abroad through the planning and implementation of rational, practical and tax efficient wealth management strategies.

The Only Ball Marker for Golfers in Stormy and Inclement Weather

Not only can it be used to mark balls in bad weather, it can also be used as a Nearest the Pin Marker, a Longest Drive Marker and a Locker Key Ring

Looking for a New, Fun and Innovative Golf Gift for the golfer in your life? Tired of buying novelty golf presents they won't use?

Why not buy a gift that he/she can use over and over again, but also has that fun factor?

Be the first to buy the golfer in your life Stormarker, the New, Unique, Innovative and Exciting Multi-Purpose Marker, designed and created by Helen Elliott, Founder & CEO of American in Britain!

Stormarker’s main purpose is to mark your ball if you have to leave the course mid-round due to bad weather, but it can also be used as a Nearest the Pin and Longest Drive Marker, and when not being used on the course its striking design make it a fun Locker Keyring.

Stormarker is lightweight and easily portable, and as it is 20cm in height and distinctively shaped as a lightning bolt (with its own name tag attached) will clearly mark the place of golf balls if golfers have to leave the course. Because it is so visible from a long distance, it can also be used as a Nearest the Pin or Longest Drive marker.

It is available in five bright, attractive, vivid colours - Red, Yellow, Pink, Orange and White.

Golfers love nearest the pin and longest drive challenges, and if groups of friends, societies, charity days etc., want to add a bit of extra fun to the round, then all they need are Stormarkers, rather than the large, unwieldly, heavy metal markers that damage your golf bags when carried.

Stormarker will provide a fun and useful alternative to golf balls, towels and tees for those looking for stocking fillers as well as Birthday, Christmas, Father's Day and Mother's Day presents. They are also great for charity day, golf day and society day gifts and prizes.

Price: £9.99

For further information, or to purchase these markers, please email helen@theamericanhour.com

The recipient of your gift will be delighted with this product, as it has only just been created, so they will be the first to own one and will be the envy of their golf friends.