Leona König by Visionnaire MM

MORALMODA VOL 3 ISSUE NO. 49 SPRING-SUMMER 2022 THE WORLD'S 1ST ART & ECO-LUXURY MAGAZINE

MAGAZINE

Leona König

in the ORF TV Show "Goldene Note" and "Stars & Talents" 2022

Adorned with Chopard Jewellery and Zuhair Murad dress Photographs by

Thomas Ramstorfer

Cannes Film Festival Fondation

Louis Vuitton

Fine Watchmaking and Jewellery from Geneva

MORALMODA | MAGAZINE

High Jewelry Collection

Chaumet Bague Transformable Chaumet Déferlante Chaumet.com

Courtesy of Chaumet

High Jewelry Collection

Chaumet “Déferlante” Bague Transformable Chaumet Déferlante Chaumet.com

Courtesy of Chaumet

High Jewelry Collection

Chaumet “Déferlante” Bague Déferlante Chaumet.com

Crédit photos : L’École des Arts Joailliers.

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Contents

Haute Horlogerie & High Jewellery

Contributors p 10 Editor’s Letter p 12

24 2nd Ed. Of Haute Jewels Geneva

WHIMSICAL & WONDERFUL, MOVEMENTS UNVEILED IN GENEVA: 46 Riviera Coast line by Baume & Mercier

40 Chaumet announces show in Paris 42 Chopard's 25th Red Carpet Collection for the 75th Cannes International Film Festival 49 Blancpain supports Sulubaaï Environmental Foundation 48 Manufacture Breguet 52 Explore the Universe - with JaegerLeCoultre

Lifestyle & ART 16 Yusuke Akamatsu art

17 The Fondation Louis Vuitton

32 Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2022 Georges Hobeika Rami Kadi Zuhair Murad Valentino

Cover-story:

Leona König

ORF TV Show Host and Moderator, Producer and Founder of Classical Show GOLDEN NOTE /ORF2and STARS & TALENTS. She is Founder of the International Music Foundation for Highly Gifted Children.

International Contributors & Editorial Board Members

Liliya Tippetts Principality of Monaco

Dr. Yana Leonova United Arab Emirates

Raquel-Elena Hernandez Díaz Spain

Corinna Nebgen von Klitzing Austria and Switzerland

VP Moralmoda, Monaco marlidresses.com ArteLia-Consultancy.com

Business Communication Dir. Moralmoda, The GCC Region

International Relations for "The Diplomatic World"

Liliya has an art & business consul-tancy company between London and Monaco (media communication, art & business advisory). She was previously involved in capital raising and wealth management at a London family office. Liliya is also Co-Founder of sustainable fashion label MARLI Dresses (Monaco-London), focusing on designing eco-luxury wardrobe essentials. Liliya@artelia.co.uk +0033609105519

Dr. Leonova is a strong believer in disruptive technology transforming modern industries and businesses. She provides knowledge-based consultancy to multinational startups, R&D teams in the UAE. Dr. Leonova is a frequent speaker and a co-organiser of high-end events devoted to technology (G20 Foundation event in Hamburg 2017 and during Davos World Economic Forum 2020).

In 2010, she became Director of International Relations for "The Diplomatic World" an organiza-tion, subscribed by 68 ambas-sadors and chaired by Her Majesty, Doña Sofía de Grecia, Queen of Spain. She co-organized Spanish-Russian political forums, in Munich, Prague and Madrid, attended by the ex-President of Spain and the Vice President of Russia.

Corinna is Founder and Creative Director of: Deluxe-Dynasty.com, an elite platform focusing on Luxury, Fashion, Lifestyle and Art. She is a Luxury Consultant to the world’s wealthy and Brand Ambassador for several selected high-class brands. As a fashion and luxury enthusiast she loves to present exclusive style to her clients and audience in well selected environments of Switzerland.

Omar Al Ba Dubai, UAE

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"One w experienc Dubai-ba a brand t early 202 Al Bataine and ban analyzed global lux and decid for high some investors in watche

Isabel Jiménez Principality of Monaco

Adriano Davoli Italy Adriano is an Italian freelance author, a jewelry historian and a collector, a refined connoisseur of magnificent jewels and unique gemstones. A GIA graduate in gemology, he writes as Jewelry Expert and Consultant for Moralmoda since 2019, on the most important high jewelry Maison such as Boucheron, Bulgari, Mellerio, Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels. Read his most recent editorials on Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels, both recently exhibiting in Venice at the second edition of Homo Faber 2022.

Brenda Li Quadri Italy and USA

LinkedIn:www.linkedin.com /in/brenda-li-quadri59b28b71/ Brenda is an international PR, Marketing and Communications consultant, entrepreneur and coach based in Italy and operating worldwide. In her background there’s also years of experience in events planning spanning from finance to beauty, in between London, NYC and Italy.

Isabel Jiménez is Chairwoman MVD Invest Group S.A. and represents the Pacific Rim Business Council (PRBC) in Europe, and the Pacific Rim Chamber of Commerce for the MENA region. Isabel is Senior. Advisory Consultant at The Private Office of H.E. Sheikh Abdulaziz Carlos Mundy bin Duaij bin Khalifa al Khalifa of Bahrain. Stay Spain tuned for the upcoming Royal Investment Summit, taking place later in 2022. Carlos Mundy was born in Spain. From an early age, he was fascinated by music and history. An art advisor by profession, Carlos Mundy is a published author of several novels and historical essays and currently collaborates as a writer with V Magazine and MoralModa Magazine. Mundy is the co-founder of Moralmoda Special issues that focus on world regions.

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EDITOR’S NOTE

ear r e a d e r,

The e n t i r e team is pleased to share with y o u the t o p i c s highlighted in our i ssu e f e a t u ring Leon a König.

Leon a K ö nig is adorned with Maison C h o p a r d J e w e l l e r y i n t h i s cove r - s t o ry dressed in Zuhair Murad dre s s Phot o g r a p hs by Thomas Ramstorfer. Le o n a K ö n i g i s O R F T V S h o w Host a n d Moderator. She is Producer a n d F o u n d e r o f C l a s s i c a l Show G O LDEN NOTE /ORF2and STARS & T A L E N T S . S h e i s F o u n d e r of t h e I n t e rnational Music Foundation fo r H i g h l y G i f t e d C h i l d r e n . You' l l n o t ice that w e've started the issu e o f f w i t h a r t p a g e s a n d the m o s t anticipate d fine art events, as w e a l w a y s d o . T h i s i s s u e i s a l s o feat u r i n g the Watches & Wonders Gen e v a e d i t i o n , A p r i l 2022 . A r t Biennale i n Venice is distingu i s h e d b y a s e l e c t g r o u p o f l ead i n g international artists, showcas e d i n a m e t i c u l o u s l y desi g n e d exhibition space, enriched by a p r o g r a m m e o f s p e c i a l exhi b i t i o ns that encourage dialogue bet w e e n t h e p e o p l e a n d t h e i nst i t u t i o n al world. Fondation Louis V u i t t o n w i l l p r e s e n t a n i nte r e s t i n g artist tha t you can read mor a a b o u t i n t h i s m a g a z i n e .

MORALMODA MAGAZINE is the rld’s first & only As a l w a y s , I wish independent l i c a t i o n d e d i c a t e d a lov e l y moment rt and sustainable u x u r y . E x c l u s i v e thi s n e w i s sue. insight with interviews and xury news from orld's top luxury stinations, thanks teams in Monaco, Geneva, Madrid, Dubai, Istanbul, ondon, New Delhi and Paris.

opyright 2021 ©. l rights reserved. No part of the erial protected by yright notice may be produced or lised in any form r by any means, without written rmission from the lisher. Moralmoda doesn't endorse ncorrect info or vert and oppinions their respective brands are not cessarily those of the publisher.

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COVER PHOTOGRAPHS BY THOMAS RAMSTORFER. PHOTO LEONA KÖNIG

No. 49 MORALMODA MAGAZINE WWW.MORALMODA.COM

EDITOR, GENEVA, SWITZERLAND

NERMIN AHMET, C E O & P R E S I D E N T, LILIYA TIPPETTS, VP MONACO E-MAIL: LILIYA@ARTELIA.CO.

READ ON-LINE: WWW.ISSUU.COM/MORALMODA

R A Q U E L - H E L E N A H E R N Á N D E Z D Í A Z, FASHION/DESIGN EDITOR-AT-LARGE CARLOS MUNDY, DEPUTY EDITOR, DR. YANA LEONOVA, BUSINESS COMMUNICATION DIRECTOR ESTELLE ARIELLE BOUCHET, STYLE EDITOR, COURCHEVEL SHALINI PASSI, FINE ART & DESIGN

SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR VALUED BRANDS AND PARTNERS: ABU DHABI MAGAZINE, ALDO COPPOLA, AL HABTOOR POLO CLUB, AMBER LOUNGE, ART IN TIME, ARTELIA CONSULTANCY MONACO, BERIN ART MANAGEMENT - BERIN IGLESIAS ART, BOUCHERON, BOVET 1822, BUGATTI, BRAEMER HOTELS, BUTTERFLY BALL MONACO, CAUDWELL CHILDREN, CHAUMET, CEO CLUBS NETWORK, ELITE CLUB INTERNATIONAL, ETIHAD, FOUR SEASONS, FRANCK MULLER, THE FUTURE OF LUXURY TRAVEL, GREEN COFFEE MONACO, GÜBELIN, IMMERSION4, IMPERIAL COSMETICS, INTERNATIONAL FOUNDATION FOR HIGHLY GIFTED CHILDREN, JABOY PRODUCTIONS, JACOB&CO., LADALIZA, LEVIAN, MARLI, MASH, MB&F, METROPOLE MONACO, MONACO ART WEEK, ZUHAIR MURAD, PIAGET, PIRANESI FINE JEWELLERY, PITTI UOMO, ROLLSROYCE, STEFANO RICCI, YALIHAN INTERNATIONAL.

CORINNA NEBGEN VON KLITZING AMBASSADOR, SWITZERLAND DYNA FAYZ, TRAVEL EDITOR, LONDON B A R O N E S S I S A B E L J I M É N E Z - S Á N C H E Z, DIGITAL PUBLISHING/LUXURY EVENTS MONACO O M A R A L B A T A I N E H, W A T C H S P E C I A L I S T H.E. SIR MANUEL FREIRE-GARABAL Y NÚÑEZ, HEAD OF INT. PRESS DEVELOPMENT EUROPE AND AFRICA

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MARGARITA POGOSYAN, RESEARCH EDITOR, MARIA HALL, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIR. GCC, R O S I T A B H A G W A N D I N, DIGITAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, NETHERLANDS AND LUXEMBURG,

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PHOTOGRAPHERS: STÉPHANE GAGNARD MATTEO DE FINA, BARBORA GERN, ELISABETH LECHNER, JM MANAÏ, N I C H O L A S M A S T O R A S, P A T R I C K S A W A Y A , VASILIKI.

Yusuke Akamatsu, Uncle mirror, 2022, 6144x8190.jpeg, © Yusuke Akamatsu

Parsons made a large impact in NYC as I was able to try out different options of design and technology. I was always into film animation and learned a lot using design software."

Yusuke Akamatsu, Rotating nebula, 6048x8064.jpeg. © Yusuke Akamatsu

Paris-based Yusuke Akamatsu unveils latest digital artworks, which are part of his body of work under the new theme "First Human or Last Human".

Set to explore profoud existential themes, Akamatsu awakes his inherent curisity and poses questions, what is important to humans? When it is lost, humans begin to disassamble, he argues, which leads to new questioning. Are we the first Human beings? Or will be the last Human? See also YusukeAkamats.com.

THE FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON SPRING EXHIBITIONS

Simon Hantaï (1922 - 2008). The Centenary Exhibition 18 May to 29 August 2022. Galleries 1 to 7

Megan Rooney, With Sun, 2022. © Megan Rooney, 2022 Photo © Fondation Louis Vuitton / Charles Duprat

This spring, the Fondation Louis Vuitton will present two exhibitions, in celebration of colour: “Fugues in Color” and “Simon Hantaï-the Centenary Exhibition”.

Fugues in Color 4 May to 29 August 2022 Galleries 8 to 10 Exhibition curators Ludovic Delalande, Nathalie Ogé and Claire Staebler, with Claudia Buizza (Artistic Direction of the Fondation) dedicate the entire top floor of the Fondation, to large presentation “Fugues in Color” (“La Couleur en fugue") exploring the diverse variations of colour, and extend into the architecture of the Frank Gehry-designed building. Historic array of Drapes crafted by Sam Gilliam (United States, 1933), in the late 1960s, are shown here for the first time in France. These coloured canvases, which hang freely in space and form the foundations of his visual technique, marked a major turning point in the history of American abstract art. Juxtaposed with these are an array of Misshaped Canvas by Steven Parrino (United States, 1958-2005). Works of Niele Toroni (Switzerland/France, 1937), thanks to considerable loans from public and private national and international institutions, will also be on display with works by Megan Rooney (Canada, 1985). Katharina Grosse (Germany, 1961) also featured at Espace Louis Vuitton Venezia as part of the 59th edition of the Biennale internationale d’art contemporain from 22 April to 27 November 2022, will execute an unprecedented work commissioned by Fondation Louis Vuitton, which will be on display beginning in September.

This impressive panorama of the artist’s work spans three floors of the Frank Gehry building, covering a total of approximately 29,063 ft2. For the first time, a largely unprecedented workshop collection of Hantaï’s works will be shown. A total of fifteen historical pieces are included in this collection, all of which are emblematic of his approach during the period of 1957-1965. The artist donated most of these works to public institutions, while others are held in large private collections in France or overseas. Hantaï’s works are shown alongside the works of other major artists that had an influence on the artist, including Henri Matisse and Jackson Pollock, and Michel Parmentier and Daniel Buren, who were Hantaï’s peers in the 1960s scene at the Cité des Fleurs. A French artist of Hungarian origin, who came to Paris in 1948 was recognised as early as 1953 by André Breton, who dedicated his first personal Parisian exhibition to him at the Surrealist gallery “A l’Etoile scellée”. On 19 May 2022, his three sons, internationally renowned musicians, will give an unparalleled concert consecrated to Couperin, Leclair, Rameau, see more on FondationLouisVuitton.fr.

Moralmoda Magazine | 17

Simon Hantaï, Sans titre, Paris, 1984 © Archives Simon Hantaï / Adagp, Paris, 2022 © Primae / Louis Bourjac

To celebrate the centenary of Simon Hantaï’s birth (19222008), Anne Baldassari, General Patrimony Curator at Fondation Louis Vuitton, has selected more than 130 of Hantaï’s works, many of which have never before been shown, and the majority of which are large format works from 1957 to 2000, four of Hantaï’s major paintings, belong to the Fondation's collection.

Leona presents two shows. The Golden Note, the big show and award ceremony on 21th May and Stars and Talents are running 10 times per year every Sunday until the Golden Note. All Jury is settled including Clemens Unterreiner.

The "Golden Note" award winners of the instrument categories receive, in addition to concluding performances with the artists of the star jury, as well as all other finalists, including masterclasses in collaboration with members of the Vienna Philharmonic and other musicians. These age-appropriate master classes are held at the Music and Art Private University of the City of Vienna (MUK), crowned by a graduation concert. The public award winner beckons a free study semester, provided by the MUK. In addition, the young musicians are expecting various appearances as well as participation in the ORF show "Stars & Talente by Leona König".

Leona König and Asmik Grigorian in the ORF TV show "Stars und Talente" 2022 and young talents in the Semifinale

Leona König presents Goldene Note prize ceremony in the ORF TV show and "Stars und Talente" 2022

Moralmoda Magazine Cover-story | 18

A reunion with Leona König and a "Golden Note" finalist from last year, supported by her, is already available on Sunday, May 1, in a new edition of the TV series "Stars & Talente"

This is how his enthusiasm for "Stars & Talents" is obvious: At a meeting with Leona König in a Vienna gallery, Revich talks about his own childhood, his love of art and the "eye-jewelery" he created, as well as his various projects. . This includes the "Dreamland" gala - a musical charity event, which the artist has already organized for the fifth time, in favor of the UNICEF Austria project "Children on the run".

The "Golden Note" award winners of the instrument categories receive, in addition to concluding performances with the star jury artists, as well as all other finalists, including master classes in collaboration with members of the Vienna Philharmonic and other musicians. These ageappropriate master classes are held at the Music and Art Private University of the City of Vienna (MUK), crowned by a graduation concert.

Image courtesy of Georges Hobeika

"Golden Note 2022" founded by Leona König An unforgettable moment of art and celebration, emotions and the sensation of preparations for the final show of "Golden Note 2022" are in full swing: This will take place on Saturday, May 21, 2022, as part of a glamorous TV gala at 20.15 in ORF 2 with the distribution of the annual classic remake of the stage. A total of nine of the country's most talented young musicians then compete in three categories (keyboards, strings and wind instruments), for the prize initiated by Leona König, commissioner of the International Association of High-Gifted Children (IMF). For the second time, an audience prize will be awarded here, which can still be voted on until Friday 13 May (11.00), under https://extra.ORF.at. As moderator, this time Leona König will lead the evening together with co-host. Two of the three jury members are already established: The winning decision will be made this year by violinist Lidia Baich and Rebecca Horner, solo dancer in the Vienna State Ballet. The third member of the jury's jury will be announced shortly.

Leona König stated: "Last year it was Thomas Gottschalk, here I am very happy, to lead together with Alfons Haider in the final of 'Golden Note 2022'. For our jury, we have so far been able to win great personalities from the cultural world for the show with star violinist Lidia Baich and Rebecca Horner, solo dancer at the Vienna State Opera. It is definitely exciting, thrilling and enriching for all musicians. With this very skilled team, we will ensure an extraordinary evening! "

Image courtesy of Georges Hobeika

GemGenève 4th Edition 5 – 8 May 2022

GemGenève is sold out with 160 exhibitors registered for the spring edition of the citi's main jewellery event with 16 countries represented Once again, GemGenève holds many surprises and offers precious stones, rare and unique gems, antique jewellery, historic and contemporary designs.

”After the success of the November 2021 edition, we committed to continuing our mission with the same intention to bring together the best of what is being produced in the field of jewellery and precious stones” Thomas Faerber cofounder of GemGenève

Ronny Totah adds: “The palpable enthusiasm of our exhibitors pushes us to renew ourselves with each edition, while still respecting the event’s DNA. The aim is to maintain the show, designed by the exhibitors, on a human scale, bringing together the general public, the industry professionals, designers of today and tomorrow, including the schools, as well as laboratories, worldrenowned experts and informed speakers on the latest trends. GemGenève is a hub which enables quality discussions and examination of major themes of importance to the jewellery trades."

In terms of participation, American exhibitors lead the way; closely followed by exhibitors from Switzerland, Israel, Germany, Hong Kong, Belgium, France, Thailand, India and Italy. And then, by companies, from the UAE, Singapore, the United Kingdom, Sri Lanka, Japan, and finally, Austria.

Isabelle Fa perpetuates the grand tradition of master chain-makers, paying tribute to this centuries-old know-how by expressing it in contemporary creations with straight andelegant lines. Each creation symbolizes the essence of fine craftsmanship. Long Necklace Lyrique & Pendant Rose Gold Special Piece: Bracelet Grace 39 with 6,66ct.G/VVS handcrafted in 950 Platinium

All images courtesy of © hautejewelsgeneva.com

By N. Ahmet

oth customers and exhibitors could gather again in-person and luxurious ambiance, to discover exclusive jewels from global jewellery brands welcomed by Haute Jewels Geneva Founder and CEO of Yoko London (right), Michael Hakimian, who manages brand with clear sustainability commitments.

The Xpandable™ Collection by PICCHIOTTI The new PICCHIOTTI Gold Accent rings and bracelets in the highly popular Xpandable™ are created with the invisible expanding mechanism that can expand comfortably up two ring size.

The creative process is not restricted even in difficult times and inspiration never ends as Sicis Jewels, Platinium Sponsor of Italy Pavilion at Expo 2020 Dubai, proves. The brand renowned for its fascinating jewels, presented a selection of creations undoubtedly above all expectations like Butterfly Romance set of earrings, necklace and rings. In the design of each object explodes the preciousness of materials such as gold, diamonds, precious gems combined with precise craftmanship of cleverly microscopic tesserae, woven into unique, three-dimensional, particular jewels. This technique that Sicis Jewels has been able to study and recover from the past is known as micromosaic, Sicis.com.

Palmiero is presenting the floral inspired creations that represent the latest evolution of the Italian jeweller from Valenza in Piedmont. This region is famous for its goldsmith tradition. Based on the charm that lies inside each creation, its immediacy, unpredictability, playfulness, the feeling connected with the person who choose it each Palmiero rings become 360 degree sculpture. See far right and more on Palmierogioielli.com.

High Jewellery Yoko London

Palmiero

Crédit photos : L’École des Arts Joailliers.

Haute Metaverse "LUCID ALGORITHMS" Rami Kadi’s Collection Couture Spring Summer 2022, disrupts the boundaries between the physical and the digital. On the following pages Zappeion Megaron, a prominent national heritage locale of the Greek civilization is the backdrop for the collection shooting. Rami Kadi always keen on adapting new technologies to convey the couture to clients. With his new collection, Rami Kadi invites us all further into a world of codes, NFT, and metaverse.

Images ©Vasiliki

Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2022

Zuhair Murad

"VERS LES JOYAUX DU TEMPS" urad proposes long dresses made for summer's events, yacht parties and variations of short cocktail dresses adorned with fine

chains and exquisite pendants for Murad's conquers. As he dresses new explorers inspired by courage to discover the joyful future and nearly pirate-like bravery. Maison Murad is one of the few to unveil a live couture show, where front row guests could admire up-close Murad's extravagant vision of maritime explorers. Many evening and cocktail looks are completed with matching monochromatic tricorn hats. The famous tricorne arose from the evolution of the broadbrimmed round hat worn by Spanish soldiers in the 17th century.

The hat style became a signature look at the royal court of King Louis XIV, who made it fashionable throughout Europe, both as civilian and military dress. Tricorn hats, now playfully combined with pleated organza couture looks, give the wearer a sense of regality and majesty, sending her to a world of secret hidden islands and restoring the opulence of the high seas era. Murad combines all this in a collection featuring a bouquet of pleated organza shirts with balloon sleeves, brocade waistcoats, midi skirts in sunray-pleated lamé fabric, cascades of tulle enveloping shorts, long dresses in silk chiffon, jumpsuits, and fitted jackets in crepe cady, as well as jewels incorporated into the textiles. As the show progresses, in the elated interior of the Westin Paris, the very modern collection silhouettes were perfectly fitted to a seemingly longerlegged cast than what you normally see on a Zuhair Murad couture catwalk—that was enhanced by asymmetric dresses, often with a dramatic thigh-high slit, as in looks like draped burgundy red and a strapless black velvet gown, with sculptural neckline ruffles, a bustle, two diamond clips, and a wraparound belt around an asymmetrical bodice.

Murad's signature asymetric lines and Hellenistic drapery morphed into shapes that were more dynamic, more 21st-century, and more glamorous. The floor-length dresses are so long and light that they touch the front row, as they fly in the air following the model, and it is possible to admire up-close silver embroidery on their outfits that is darkened on purpose, in striking contrast to the tangles of gold chains and pearls slung from the models' slender waists, In an all-encompassing palette dominated by the aged pink of maritime dawns. Front-row seated guests included Heart Evangelista, who admired Murad's couture up-close with the pallid red of canopies faded by sun and salt, and the rust of oxidized metals, along with traces of the blue or green reflections coming from brocades and embroideries bring back to life the late 2010s flamboyance By N. Ahmet See more on Zuhairmurad.com

VALENTINO

NATOMY OF COUTURE Haute Couture show by Pierpaolo Piccioli for Maison Valentino questions the feminine figure as a socio-anthropological construct. Appreciating how the latter is more fluid, Piccioli adapts new cuts, savoirfaire, and mixes of materials to cut to the bone (no pun intended) to present a silhouette as unbiased as possible. Held at Valentino’s gilded salons on the Place Vendôme, the intimacy of the show (in contrast to past couture shows staged in Venice) allows guests to appreciate its message and silhouettes, which are made possible by the Haute Couture ateliers, where everything is unique and finely tailored to fit each individual. Acknowledging that there is no "one size fits all" ideal of beauty, silhouette, or age, while remaining faithful to the

Maison's aesthetics, Piccioli takes Valentino couture one step further and proposes a variety of looks that are not constrained by old social notions about women. His new silhouette is a tribute to feminine anatomy in all of its forms and variations. And the atelier brilliantly brings his vision to life in a variety of individually fitting styles, such as Lara Stone's sequin tiny dress under an oversized white embellished jacket, revealing her black stockings, and Kristen McMenamy's plunging black dress, which she wore to begin the show. Marie Sophie Wilson, who is still modeling in her 70s, wore a blousy couture Tshirt in wool crepe over a glittery fishtail skirt to underline the show's message. Piccioli's candid portrayal of woman necessitates a reassessment of the status quo of beauty ideals and underlines how the body is the starting and ending point of the whole process. By N. Ahmet

ANATOMY OF COUTURE Spring/ Summer Haute Couture show by Pierpaolo Piccioli for Maison Valentino questions the feminine figure as a socio-anthropological construct. Appreciating how the latter is more fluid, Piccioli adapts new cuts, savoirfaire, and mix of materials to cut to the bone (no pun intended) by presenting a silhouette as unbiased as possible.

Credit: courtesy of Valentino

Moralmoda Magazine Haute Couture |36

Alexis Mabille

lexis Mabille's Spring/Summer Haute Couture show that was unveiled during his scheduled sow at the official Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week with fresh and sophisticated looks.

Courtesy of Alexis Mabille.

Alexis Mabille's line is elongated almost divine and often Greek inspired incorporation of timeless woman who choses elegance Haute couture isof many things today. comfortable dressingBack within the 90s, couturiers would sense compete present the most elegant suit for to carnal Couture. pieces and ballgowns that would fit into their clients' and the French Chambre syndicale de la haute couture's requirements, however which are today vastly different.

Mabille, however, insists on keeping up the standard with every collection and look. As usual, the designer proposes lines that he describes as inherently feminine, timeless, and trend-proof as ancient Greek architecture, which finds its way into column-like pleated dresses and brightly colored couture. The spring couture collection is strikingly free from embroidery, yet it blends delicate materials, embroidery and finishes like on backless dress in duchess satin adorned with 45 bowties that took 300 hours to make. Mabille's couture is known for its lightness, but the woman who wears it exudes strength. His couture is admired by American artists and Gulf buyers alike, and his woman is undeniably modern and self-assured. Her way of dressing is seemingly poetic and nostalgic, yet uncompromisingly powerful with an eternal elegance and allure.

Moralmoda Magazine Haute Couture | 37

COURRÈGES Fall-Winter 2022/23 Collection pays tribute to youth and brand’s heritage, presented during the Paris Fashion Week, the collection celebrates encounters between eras, worlds and people. It mixes brand’s code with workwear and clubwear inspirations. This is Nicolas Di Felice’s second Fall season collection for the iconic brand. The models including Kendall Jenner looked stunning in strapless dresses. By N. Ahmet.

Moralmoda Magazine PFW |71

Déferlante earrings in white gold

Déferlante necklace detail (left) and tiara in white gold (right)

Natural elements, particularly water, have been a primary source of inspiration for Chaumet for more over two centuries. The Maison is writing a breathtaking new chapter with Déferlante, the new High Jewellery capsule collection. Furthermore unprecedented and ambitious exhibition, 'Végétal – L'École de la Beauté' will take place at the Palais des BeauxArts in Paris, France, from 17 June to 4 September 2022, Chaumet.com.

Déferlante necklace detail (left) and tiara in white gold (right)

Déferlante de Chaumet By N. Ahmet Déferlante High Jewellery spring-summer 2022 collection focuses on Chaumet trademarks, from the tiara to the transformable diamond, as a continuation of Torsade de Chaumet, the Maison's previous High Jewellery collection and an ode to life and movement.

Choker in Fairminedcertified ethical 18carat white gold set with diamonds (204.35 cts). Ref. 810223-1001

Chopard's

25th Red Carpet Collection for the 75th Cannes International Film On the occasion of the Festival 75th Cannes International ━

Film Festival which Chopard has supported since 25 years Caroline Scheufele has created 75 Haute Joaillerie creations, inspired by the movies, from its early black and white era to present. The artistic director and co-president of Chopard's collection of High Jewellery wonders will adorn cinema stars and talents on the red carpet of the Festival's preview screenings. Discover more on Chopard.com

Ring in Fairmined-certified ethical 18-carat white gold set with a 4.40 ct round-cut emerald and diamonds (4.04 cts). Ref. 820904-1002

High Jewellery

“Pumpkin” ring

inspired by the Cinderella fairy tale. Composed of fairmined-certified ethical 18-carat white and rose gold, aluminium and titanium set with spessartite garnets (13.64 cts), tsavorites (3.23 cts) and diamonds (0.49 ct), required nearly 100 hours of expertise. Ref. 828341-9001

Moralmoda Magazine Fine Watchmaking | 42

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Ring in Fairmined-certified ethical 18-carat white gold set with a 4.40 ct round-cut emerald and diamonds (4.04 cts). Ref. 820904-1002

Far right: Jewellery watch in Fairmined-certified ethical 18-carat white gold, entirely set with diamonds (32.82 cts) and multicoloured sapphires (17.48 cts). Ref. 105367-1003 Watch in Fairmined-certified ethical 18-carat white gold, full-set with diamonds (27.21 cts) and rubies (8.40 cts). Ref. 104654-1001 (left).

Métiers d'Art Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier Inspired by the floral clock concept imagined by Carl Von Linné in 1751, the Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier offers a poetic rendition of the passage of time, thanks to a special module opening and closing the 12 corollas on the dial. Telling the time becomes a spectacle, as the flowers blossom and close, renewing the scenery every 60 minutes. The watch displays a springlike tableau with ethereal blue butterflies – emblematic of Van Cleef & Arpels – fluttering between the pink and red corollas, in a striking relief effect.

Riviera Coast line In 2022, Baume & Mercier, Manufacturer of Luxury Swiss Watches since 1830, invites watch collectors to discover the French Riviera spirit, with several versions from the “Swiss-made” selfwinding “Coastline” models. Riviera 10677 - Coastline in its steel case, with a gradated midnight blue lacquer dial, is set with 63 diamonds, that portray the seaboard of the French Riviera, beckoning to an adventure from Monaco to Saint Tropez. Like a sparkling summer wave, the exclusive gem-setting extends to a portion of the bezel, case and integrated steel strap, Baume-et-mercier.com.

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The 43.9 mm-diameter case, available in a choice of white or rose gold, houses Calibre 77F1 whose balance oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz. Calibre 77F1 features a unique asset in the form of its patented additional modules for the dual time-zone mechanism, the second timezone display, the programmable and reprogrammable mechanical memory wheel and the pointertype day/night display. Part of this exceptional mechanism with its 55-hour power reserve can be admired through the sapphire caseback, elegantly adorned with Côtes de Genève.

Manufacture Breguet:

Hora Mundi

The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Breguet launches a new interpretation of its Hora Mundi model within the Marine collection. The Hora Mundi became an instant hit at the time of its launch. This mechanical watch, which had taken three years to develop and been awarded four patents, featured a critical asset in the shape of an instantchange dual-time display with memory function. A timepiece combining technical and aesthetic feats. is accomplished via the pusher and crown. Having selected the first cities time and date, the owner of the watch need only set the second city.

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The watch mechanism then calculates the time and date by means of a clever system of cams, hammers and an integrated differential. At that point, simply pressing the pusher is enough to travel from one end of the planet to the other, all without disturbing the accurate running of the watch. Visual escapism The dial offers a fascinating interpretation of the world on the wrist by a play on materials and superimposed plates. On the first gold base, the hand-guilloché waves lap gently against the shores of the continents.

The sunburst dial base attired in abyssal blue creates the impression of a permanent waltz of the wave motifs. This effect may also be due to the way in which the continents are depicted: an additional plate made of sapphire is composed of the metallised meridians and the continents are treated to horizontal satin brushing, while their coastlines are subtly outlined with a metallic turquoise border. Finally, an outer flange serves as a support for the various elements present on the dial. The result features brilliantly crafted dimensions and surfaces thanks to various treatments requiring several weeks of work. Essential details Making the dial legible while endowing each indication with a special aesthetic: for Breguet, luxury resides in the details – which is notably why the hours and minutes hands as well as the hourmarkers are adorned with luminescent material ensuring nocturnal legibility. The Sun and Moon positioned at 4 o’clock are hand-hammered to create a strongly realistic result. While the sun is a luminous rose gold, the moon is rhodium-plated and exudes a mysterious grey appearance. Displayed through a 12 o’clock aperture, the date features an additional retrograde hand ingeniously placed beneath the aperture dial and featuring a delicately rounded “U-shaped” tip serving to encircle the date of each passing day.

Blancpain supports Sulubaaï Environmental Foundation - for a safe and sustainable sea Guided by a firmly pioneering mentality, since its founding in 1735, Blancpain has been one of the first Haute Horlogerie brands to be actively engaged to ocean conservation. Blancpain Ocean Commitment The Sea Academy project is one of several projects to conserve the underwater world that the brand has supported for nearly 20 years. This time Blancpain is supporting a critical mission by collaborating with Sea Academy: the Sulubaaï Environmental Foundation as they collaboration with local communities, to create marine protected areas around Pangatalan Island and Shark Fin Bay in the Philippines (image far right), in a pursuit critical to keeping sea safe and clean for all animals. Exploration and preservation of the world’s oceans is at the core to Blancpain, and this legacy is underlined by the Fifty Fathoms – the first modern diver's watch.

Images courtesy of Blancpain.

The partnership between Blancpain and the Sulubaaï Environmental Foundation is part of the Blancpain Ocean Commitment, which brings together all the Brand's actions in support of the oceans. The programme has already led to concrete results, notably by extending the surface of marine protected areas (MPAs) around the world by more than 4Mio km2, after the successful Pristine Seas expeditions co-founded by Blancpain. Through the Sea Academy project, Blancpain and the Sulubaaï Foundation wish to contribute to the development of sustainable management with a positive impact on both the nature and communities, Sulubaai-foundation.com. Australian Biopixel Oceans Foundation The prestigious Swiss watchmaker is recognized today as one of the world’s leading timepiece manufacturers that is not only synonymous with quality, innovation and precision, but its timepieces are also defined by its pioneering spirit and desire to protect oceans. Since the 1953 launch of the first modern diver's watch, Fifty Fathoms, Blancpain has made ocean discovery and protection a priority. In line with this commitment, the Brand entered new partnerships with Biopixel Oceans Foundation and Biopixel, (the aim of this collaboration is to support scientific research, propose innovative restoration solutions to preserve the Great Barrier Reef) and Blancpain partners with Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI®) to help protect 30% of the ocean by 2030 .The organisations unveiled their collaborative partnership at the 9th Annual World Ocean Summit, the flagship event of the Economist Impact’s World Ocean Initiative, attended by the world’s top thought leaders from business, science, governmental and non-profit sectors – to tackle the greatest environmental issues. To date, Blancpain has cofinanced 21 major scientific expeditions, Blancpain.com.

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The Philippines is located within the Coral Triangle, these islands lie within an extremely rich reef zone that is home to 80% of the world's coral species. Unfortunately, this region is heavily impacted by human activity and global warming. It is therefore imperative to protect it, Sulubaai-foundation.com

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WHIMSICAL & WONDERFUL, MOVEMENTS UNVEILED IN GENEVA

Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Atomium The Earth's satellite and orbit holds many secrets and we never see the far side of the Moon, which always faces away from Earth. Nevertheless, Jaeger-LeCoultre combines uncontested mastery of chiming watches, precision mechanisms, astronomical complications and ultracompact watchmaking to help us understand many of the universe's and Moon's secrets, for an example with its anniversary Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 presented in 2021. This year the luxury watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre takes us one step further, into the universe and time measurement, and celebrates its expertise in celestial complications with a range of collections that help measure and unveil the movement of celestial bodies. Reinterpreting its Calibre 945 the new timepiece unites on a unique display a minute repeater and Cosmotourbillon. The universe displayed onto the wrist This timepiece with its spectacular dial, depicts the constellations on the wrist that can be seen in real time in the sky. The shape of the filigree forming the outer section of the dome, echoes the lines that link the stars to form constellations. By N. Ahmet

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Purnell & AS Monaco rise together with a prestigious partnership - Rise. Risk. Repeat Swiss luxury watchmaker Purnell is the Official Timekeeper for AS Monaco, one of the most esteemed clubs in the world which is turning 100 soon! Both the AS Monaco team and the Purnell team share the goal of bringing their skills to the forefront and excelling as a team. Purnell is so naturally associated with AS Monaco, the Principality's football club—and Monte-Carlo, a location of renown, esteem, and elegance—where elite athletes keep breaking world sport records with remarkable precision and dedication. Purnell is noted for its avant-garde haute horlogerie and some of the most unique watches in the world, such as the World's Fastest Triple-Axis Tourbillon. Purnell has also announced a limited-edition co-branded timepiece collection, Purnellwatches.com.

“Monaco is a unique concentration of beauty, prestige and dynamism, just like our masterpieces. Both our brands are rare jewels in our respective fields, and we recognize ourselves with AS Monaco’s tagline: RISE. RISK. REPEAT.” - Maurizio Mazzocchi, CEO of Purnell Moralmoda Magazine | 55

Vacheron Constantin

Patrimony self-winding The attention that Vacheron Constantin has devoted to women's timepieces for more than two centuries is freshly interpreted through the models presented at Watches and Wonders 2022. A response to women's growing desire for complex mechanical timepieces, the Patrimony self-winding watch flaunts a minimalist silhouette exuding a timeless elegance symbolising a distinctive kind of watchmaking classicism.

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Vacheron Constantin

Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton The tourbillon, one of the most emblematic Haute Horlogerie complications, joins the Overseas collection in a skeletonised version. Manufacture Calibre 2160 has been redesigned for the occasion in a contemporary, entirely openworked spirit. Available in 18K 5N pink gold and Grade 5 titanium – first Vacheron Constantin model made entirely of this metalversions complete with integrated bracelets, this watch is accompanied by meticulous attention to the finishing of the movement and case.

French luxury Maisons masterfully present their knowledge of enamel, marquetry and gold bead granulation, in the new watch collections (unveiled in Geneva) celebrating the great animals of Africa.

By N. Ahmet

Métiers d'Art Cartier HPI01517 36 mm. Rhodium-finish white gold 750/1000. Bezel set with 26 diamonds (0.71 ct), 6 yellow sapphires and 9 orange garnets. Buckle set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.29 ct). Dial with zebra motif in mother-of-pearl and black onyx marquetry and giraffe motif in gold granulation. Crown set with a pyramid-cut diamond (0.09 ct). Mechanical movement, manual winding 430 MC. 30 pieces. Van Cleef & Arpels Lady watch Duo de Lions Dial: lions sculpted in relief from white and yellow gold, turquoise and diamonds. With the engraved back, VanCleefArpels.com.

Métiers d'Art Cartier HPI01447 42 mm. Rhodiumfinish white gold 750/1000. Dial with panther motif, 2 pear-cut diamonds (0.11 ct). Crown set with a sapphire cabochon. Manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding 430 MC. Numbered limited edition of 50 pieces, Cartier.com.

Métiers d'Art Cartier HPI01529 Yellow gold 750/1000. Case, dial and buckle set with 242 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.64 ct). Dial and bezel with champlevé enamel and enamel on silver foil. Crown set with a pyramid-cut diamond (0.09 ct). Manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding 1917 MC. 50 pieces. By N. Ahmet

Piaget Altiplano timepiece housed in a 38 mm 18K white gold case set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds. Features the Maison’s ultra-thin, manualwinding 430P movement, attesting to Piaget’s expertise in ultra-thin watchmaking, gem-setting, and artistic craftsmanship excellence. Dial in cloisonné grand feu enamel by masterenameller Anita Porchet. Limited edition of 38 timepieces.

Métiers d'Art Cartier Created in 1967, deep in the heart of Swinging London, the Cartier Crash watch captures the vibrant energy of the city. This year, craftsmen at the Maison des Métiers d’Art explored the dial’s potential, making it the source of creative expression of Cartier’s craftsmanship: the organic and vivid character of its lines evoke a uniquely animal presence.

Cartier Privé WHTA0015 Manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding 9627 MC. Platinum 950/1000 Crown set with a faceted ruby. Numbered limited edition of 100 pieces.

Emré Erturk Turkey Designer, VP Moralmoda, Istanbul emrenewyork.com In 2021, Emré Erturk NewYork, celebrated the 25th anniversary with solo Arts shows to honour his art collectors. His design, art and brand are celebrated from Hollywood to India. Erturk was the IT-handbag designer for the Oscars. Emré Erturk NewYork is also being used as a case and as a role model at the New York Parsons School of Design.

Perpetual Moon Year of the Tiger CNY 2022 The year of the Water Tiger is embodied in an expressive version of Perpetual Moon. Arnold & Son has fashioned a golden tiger, roaring and on the alert. In the background, a waterfall symbolises the element that tempers this feline’s ferocious energy. Rose gold and specular hematite, mother-of-pearl and aventurine interpret a highly symbolic scene on the watch.

All images courtesy of Mandarin Oriental.com.

Courtesy of Chaumet

High Jewelry Collection

Chaumet “Déferlante” Bague Déferlante Chaumet.com

Courtesy Issey Miyake FW 2022

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COACHBUILT MASTERPIECE 'BOAT TAIL' in COLLABORATION with BOVET1822 DURING ITS 2021 GLOBAL DEBUT AT VILLA D'ESTE

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