KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE
Neighbours
Illustration by Justina Norkutė-Širin
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Photo by Lukas Mykolaitis
Borrowing sugar, salt or coffee seems like the oldest of stereotypes when discussing being a neighbour. Nevertheless, neighbours are not necessarily people that you socialise with – you might be of different generations, political views, incomes or sources of incomes. You can try to pick your neighbours when considering buying or renting a home, but there are more substantial things to evaluate. You’ll probably really get to know the ones living across from you or in the same house when you settle in.
Can you spare some sugar? May will be an extra neighbourly month for Kaunas: one after another, various events will invite you to be a neighbour in many new senses by not limiting the action to borrowing spices. Your neighbour is never just a person who lives close to you; he or she is a citizen of the city who paints, writes, buys, sells, learns, cooks, builds, travels, shouts, blesses, creates or destroys. Just like you. Exchanging experiences might become a much more meaningful ritual than borrowing salt that no one ever pays back for. Going through the pages of the 33rd issue of Kaunas Full of Culture will have you exploring different back-
yards or streets of the city. What did the old wolves of Putvinskio street learn last year during the day dedicated to their street? Which famous Lithuanian painter has the organiser of Gallery Weekend Kaunas living inside one of the paintings? What happens when the author of the article and the hero find out that they shared the same metal globe when they were kids in Milikoniai? Do most counties of Kaunas and Kaunas District welcome guests willingly? Why do academicians, who’d like to be heard by someone else than their colleagues, have to start speaking the language of neighbours? Who’s your neighbour?
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The occupation of Lithuania resulted in the nationalisation of real estate. Houses were distributed to new residents, and after the independence was regained, they were returned to the previous owners or privatised. All this came down to big and rapid changes in the way the buildings looked, and often the initial owners and original architects weren’t part of the change. It’s interesting to observe such two-faced, even many-faced structures – are the people living inside that different as well? Perhaps it’s the opposite – they might be very friendly and neighbourly, since the situation could be interpreted as two separate houses glued together. Lukas Mykolaitis takes his photo camera to Žemieji Šančiai, but this photo story could continue all throughout Kaunas.
Two-faced buildings By Gunars Bakšejevs Photos by Lukas Mykolaitis
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Even though Andrius Pukis invited us to meet at the POST gallery, we forced ourselves into his backyard. And if it wasn’t for this bold move of ours, we’d probably only have half of this interview. There were two reasons for our meeting – the third Gallery Weekend Kaunas on May 10-13, which connects all the galleries in town (find the programme in our calendar), and certainly the Kaunas Culture and Art Prize that A. Pukis recently received. But since the aura of Žaliakalnis is so powerful, the talk expanded quite a bit.
Andrius Pukis, Vaisių street and white apple-trees By Daina Dubauskaitė Photos by Donatas Stankevičius
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We’ve recently read that Gallery Weekend Kaunas was accepted into the international network of gallery weekends. What was that about? I believe we owe it to the English name of our event. In the capital, this event is called “Vilniaus galerijų savaitgalis”, in Klaipėda they refer to it as “Galerijų dienos”, so the international crowd probably skipped these events due to the Lithuanian language used in the titles. We were noticed and invited to an organisers’ meet-up in Barcelona. During this conference, various countries were discussing and sharing their experiences, and a decision was made to create a new joint website for gallery weekends, which would include all the information about such weekends around the world. All gallery weekend organisers in Europe will prepare a mutual application to get funding from the European Union. We hope to be collaborating with our colleagues as much as possible, to go visit them and encourage our visitors to do the same. None of this would be possible without our team members Viktorija Mašanauskaitė, Lina Pranaitytė, Rūta Stepanovaitė, Vaida Stepanovaitė and Margarita Žigutytė. Are there any other events out there that are similar in terms of their principles to the weekend in Kaunas? I think the closest one in that sense would be in Bucharest, Romania – they have no budget and therefore create the programme based on the deals galleries make with each other. During the whole weekend, performances, presentations and other events take place in every single gallery of Bucharest. The budget of Paris’ gallery weekend is over €300,000. Most of that money goes into organising a VIP event for
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the most important collectors, who then head straight to all the spots of the weekend to buy art. In rich countries, most gallery weekends focus on selling artworks; they seem more like art fairs. For example, the Barcelona art fair is not that important – the gallery weekend is enough for sales. It’s even more cost-effective for the city since the buyer comes directly to an actual gallery instead of visiting a temporary stand at the fair. It’s a whole other method than we use – we don’t typically think about selling as the market in Kaunas is way too small for that. The only event for art sales in Lithuania is the Art Vilnius fair. I’m not saying it would hurt the gallery weekend to sell some stuff, but we concentrate on collaboration, getting to know the culture, not on shaping the art market. Are the ideas from two years ago being implemented today? Or did you change the initial goals? Everything is going according to our plan. We haven’t moved far from the initial ideas, we just expanded our team a bit. There probably won’t be more galleries in Kaunas, so there’s really not much space for us to grow. Of course, we’d love to see some newcomers that would add value to the cultural map of Kaunas. That’s what we wanted to chat about – growth. Last year, you held an exhibition in Vilijampolė at a flower warehouse, and this time you’re exploring the first M. K. Čiurlionis gallery on Pelėdų hill. Are you after discovering a less-known place each time? Definitely, we’re always looking for an additional, fairly unknown, exciting space to host an exhibition. There aren’t many galleries in Kaunas, so we’re hoping to provide new experiences for the public. Of course,
the number of pop-up galleries can’t be higher than the one of official exhibition spaces, since that wouldn’t match the weekend’s objectives. How’s the budget? Do any businesses help out? We’re partially financed by the Kaunas municipality. Still waiting for the decision of the culture council. The first GWK was financed from our own pockets. We have no private sponsors – maybe we should try harder in this field. It might be a stereotype, but businesspeople don’t look into sponsoring culture that much. That probably has to do with the overall cultural climate of Kaunas. If those with large amounts of money believe it’s more purposeful to create another “trophy alley” for
companies or build a gigantic statue, what can we actually do about that? You’ve just received a Culture and Art Prize along with four other deserving Kaunasians. What was your reaction? I knew I was considered for the prize, and later I received a call about not checking my emails. I won. Ok, cool! Obviously, I’m very pleased that people appreciate the things we have been doing for five years at POST without pay, for the sake of contemporary culture. The appreciation motivates us to continue. I immediately transferred the prize money to the gallery’s bank account to pay the taxes.
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Do you think this will encourage more Kaunasians to drop by the POST gallery? Many people visit us already, however the prize will definitely be a plus for us when applying for future projects. It’s great that it wasn’t a lifetime achievement award – young creators should be encouraged like this more often. Cultural initiatives are what keeps the city going, not the bureaucratic files. The POST gallery is the only private gallery for contemporary art in Kaunas. We probably can’t compare it to budget galleries within art associations, which have regular funding. We surely can’t. But everyone’s saying they’re not getting enough money. At least the people in those institutional galleries get regular paychecks! As the director, I have to pay the salaries. The smallest possible salary is €40, but from January 1st of 2018, I have to pay the taxes as if it was the official minimum wage. So I get €40 and pay €130 in taxes. We’re a non-profit organisation, mind you! Well, people from budget galleries have the right to complain since the state is obliged to finance them. No one has to give you anything, so do you get to complain at all? No! So what am I doing here, you might ask. Right! Well, I started moulding things when I was little. Castles, cars, people, entire cities. Art gymnasium was next, then Vilnius Academy of Arts, travelling and studying abroad. Coming back to Kaunas made me realise the contemporary art scene is very narrow here, therefore I have an opportunity to mould this sector. The biggest satisfaction is experiencing a solid exhibition or an artwork. That’s
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what personally motivates me the most. What else could I do? I don’t want to complain about things not happening, it’s much better to work hard at trying to make them happen. You’ve said many people do visit the POST gallery. But, looking from an outsider’s perspective, have the two gallery weekends changed the habits of Kaunasians? Is the number of visitors in galleries growing? It’s perhaps too early to say after just two years. I’m scared that there’s an actual finite number of potential visitors, and the reasons for it might lie in education. A lack of cultural education. Also, there’s not enough content, and if there is at times, it’s not being shaped strategically. If the projects are of poor quality, even the best advertising in the world wouldn’t bring good results. People will just notice that the king is in the nude. Do your neighbours know what you do for a living? They know, but they’re not that into culture and arts. Of course, if they were into it, more people would benefit from culture and the city would be a better place for everybody. But I’m just not the type of person to convince them individually. There’s enough information available. You can’t shove people into galleries against their will, that’s communism. Tell us about Vaisių street. Why is it special? Our neighbours are the owners of the Mažasis Paryžius café [we wrote about this bar in the March edition]. Since Benas Fainšteinas is a painter, we sometimes chat. Artist Antanas Samuolis was a relative of mine, he used to live and create here. He painted “White apple-tree”
But expressing myself through art is more important to me than being a gallerist, which I see as more of a hobby or a public service, hoping to be part of shaping the contemporary culture of Kaunas. That’s why I’m always thinking about my next exhibition in Kaunas or Vilnius. The process is a continuous one, however I need some time. As a gallerist, are you more critical of other curators or organisers? Certainly! I see everything – how the project is presented, how it is constructed… The details are all very evident to me. There aren’t many exhibitions that capture the whole of me. In order for this to change, we need new people and a more responsible take on the matter.
Café 49 could be called our neighbour – it never leaves us hungry. And the Movido bar is just across from us, on Laisvės avenue. Konrado café was here too, later – Tulpė. Do you think we could recreate such a cultural area here? When everything’s gone, recreating something seems meaningless. There are many cafés for culture people to meet today, so why should we focus on Tulpė? We can’t reopen Merkurijus, but if it wasn’t demolished, it would probably get into the cultural heritage register. Can you imagine the letters spelling out “Merkurijus Art Centre” on the building in the same font? I’m now working on an idea to establish a space for creative workshops in one of the abandoned buildings of Kaunas. This would be a place for artists, a hall for exhibitions and performances, welcoming at least 200 visitors. Creators are always coming to the POST gallery to ask us about any opportunities to settle somewhere, rehearse, organise events, make art installations or simply store equipment. So there’s a demand for it. The main thing is making sure there are no residential buildings around the place, and that the construction itself wouldn’t be in a state of emergency. We’re working on it.
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But you’re not entirely a gallery man, you’re an artist first! Right now, I’m not creating art. I simply have so much to do at the gallery – projects, reports, curating, everyday stuff. The last exhibitions I took part in were in 2015, at the Žalgiris arena and Art Vilnius.
Which galleries of Kaunas are POST’s closest colleagues? In other words, who would you run to in order to borrow pliers? We’ve actually borrowed a few things from the Kaunas Photography Gallery on many occasions, also Meno Parkas – they need something once in a while too. Microphones, frames, racks, stuff like that. Although we’re not neighbours, we feel like we are.
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in this very backyard – the painting is now in Vilnius, hanging at the National Gallery of Art. His nephew Raimundas Samulevičius, who mostly worked with Juozas Miltinis as a dramaturg, lived here too, there’s even a memorial plank for him [points to it]. The culture people of Kaunas used to gather here, even some like-minded artists from Poland would visit. The place was vibrant and very anti-soviet. That’s probably the reason why R. Samulevičius was shot in the eye in 1981, in Vilnius, by a government agent. Interestingly, they’ve found an auto portrait by R. Samulevičius later, and one eye was painted all white. 1981 was the year I was born, by the way. I’d like to own “White apple-tree”, but that seems impossible. Still, any work by A. Samuolis would be fantastic to have.
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Kęstutis Zenonas Šafranavičius lives in Aukštieji Šančiai, and for four days of the week, you can visit him on V. Putvinskio street. House no. 42 was a consulate of Argentina during the years of the first republic of Lithuania, later it was a trading office of the Soviet Union, where a Polish military attaché worked as well. The huge balcony even had people giving speeches for military parades, Mr Šafranavičius told us when opening the doors to his antique shop-gallery GK Galerija, inviting to one of the spaces packed full of paintings. You can look around for those, also books, photos, records and other objects on Tuesdays through Fridays. As for Saturdays, come here on May 26th – this will be the day of Putvinskio street, initiated by the Kaunas Artists House. So even the residents of the street that take a break on weekends will be here in full-on action.
A Tatar warrior of the Putvinskio steppes By Kotryna Lingienė Photos by Dainius Ščiuka
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It’s a specific way of living that requires a lot of information and knowledge, a certain patience to discover things and then find the places for them. I started collecting almost right from my birth – I was always into it. My mom and dad weren’t collectors, but maybe my ancestors were? History, geography and other related disciplines were truly interesting to me in school, and that’s all linked to collecting! For instance, postal stamps – during the Soviet years, apart from special collectors’ clubs, Kaunas had only a single shop (on the current S. Daukanto street) where you could buy stamps from such countries as Cuba or Nicaragua. Of course, there was a chance these were printed in Lithuania.
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What made you consider becoming a collector, owner of an antique shop? Collecting things is an outlook on life – everyone does it, most of us just don’t admit it or we pay no attention to it. But three different cups to drink tea from is already a collection!
The knowledge that collectors hold is varied – I know people who look for information about Kaunas and then publish such books. One of the most known Kaunasians, professor Liudas Mažylis, is also a collector. If he wasn’t one, I’m sure he wouldn’t have found the Act of Independence of Lithuania. It was a hunch of a collector that led him to it, not the thinking of an academic historian. There are thousands of interesting subjects, and this kind of curiosity is the engine to move forward. I’m an engineer-builder by profession, but that has little to do with what I’m into. Perhaps that experience helps a bit, but today my business is collecting. And it’s not a successful one at times. The middle class of Lithuania has shrunk, and
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there aren’t many collectors left. Still, people come by the shop and buy some things. Foreigners love the old vinyl records by the Melodija company. I’m glad they can discover something here. When did you settle in this building? Six years ago. The house was in bad shape when we bought it – this was a warehouse for the post office during the Soviet occupation, and before that, people lived here. We worked hard at turning it into a safe place, making it look more like a gallery. This hall can host exhibitions of up to 30 artworks – artists do tend to address us about it. It’s been three years since we started collaborating with ceramicist Kristina Alšauskienė, who gives ceramics classes here. I’m happy to see three- or five-year-old kids moulding objects, appreciating them, bringing some home. This livens our gallery up a lot. And if kids feel at home here, then this space must have good energy! How do you feel in V. Putvinskio street? Why this place? When we were looking for a building that could host us, we explored many locations of the city centre. I loved this one instantly, and the house has a serious history. I’m a fan of history, after all! The museums nearby bring balance to the street. For example, Vytautas the Great War Museum is a destination of military objects, while our place is all about art. Also, it’s a good street strategically for me since I have many errands to run in the city, and it’s the spot where Tatars from the Kaunas region meet – I’m the head of the community.
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You’re a Tatar? I see myself as a Lithuanian with Tatarian roots, even though most of my blood is from Tatars. Ipolitas Makulavičius, the head of the Tatar community of Alytus, is my cousin. My mom was born in Alytus. Tatars have been living in Lithuania for more than 600 years. Is the community in Kaunas large? When I was elected as the head of it ten years ago, we counted the members, finding about 150 residents of Tatarian origin, but there are obviously many more of them here. The assimilation processes were strong, people would forget their roots. As I have always been into digging deeper, I frequently suspect people being of Tatarian origin because of their last names – I want to invite them to join our community! Sometimes it’s enough to talk to someone about their grandmas, grandpas, villages, and they get very surprised by a few facts. The genetic code of the Iranian peoples has left its trace in many locations of Lithuania, and I’m not just talking about Tatars, other nations of Central Asia are in the mix too. By the way, Lithuania was always a place that armies would cross, or they would fight here – armies including people from very different nations. Our family, we think, came from Crimea. Last names and family signs (tamgas, which later were included in Tatarian coats of arms) have led us to believe that. Our coat of arms is perhaps from the 17th or 18th century; it has a tamga with a heart pierced by an arrow.
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During those community meetings, do you focus on everyday issues or do you champion any rituals as well? We engage in cultural activities only. We don’t have a main religion – there are Muslims among us, Catholics, Lutherans, but that’s no obstacle to communicate. The songs and dances are basically extinct. I do remember some small bits from my childhood, but nothing more. Together with the community, we were trying to teach kids a few Tatarian songs: we bought national costumes for them, and the head of our ensemble was a graduate of the J. Gruodis conservatory – her father came here from Ufa, so he and his children spoke the Kazan dialect. Tatarian language was gone in this country by the 17th century. People from the current Kazakhstan steppes, Crimea and the Volga region came to Lithuania, but they could barely understand one another, and all of them were seen as Tatars. Many fled from the country (Grand Duchy of Lithuania) in the 17th century since those opposing Islam often attacked them. They settled near the Black Sea, in present Romania. Around 30,000 Tatars are now living next to the Constanța city, and they speak the same language that Tatarian people spoke in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania! We found out about this pretty recently. Maybe we could learn the language from them. That’s interesting! I could go on and on. Some things about the past that we know today should be preserved. I believe that’s important. We’ve established a virtual museum, and the first part of the material is already up there. The Department of National Minorities gave us a bit of funding, so perhaps we’ll be able to continue this, let’s say, eternal project.
Club Building. The tournament is an international one and has a solid rating, with the best players of Lithuania taking part. I’m an amateur myself, but that doesn’t get in the way of organising the event.
What else do you work on with the community? We’re organising a chess tournament for the 12th year in a row, as there are many chess players among Tatars. The chess federation of Kaunas was founded by a late member of our community, former head of the association of Lithuania’s Tatar communities, KTU associate professor Romualdas Makaveckas. The fast chess tournament is named after him – it will take place on September 15th, at the Kaunas Garrison Officers’
We also have a Tatarian club for military history, named after general Juzefas Beliakas, who was a partner of this club. My family had at least three generals since warfare was one of the most popular fields amongst Tatars – it’s only me that’s an engineer-builder! I have collected loads of iconographic material, objects, so one of the spaces at the gallery is dedicated to the history of war. So now let’s talk about the thing I came here to talk about – what did you offer visitors last year during the day of the Putvinskio street? An open door? Kind of. I visited a few neighbours and looked around – I liked some activities and some not that much. There weren’t many people like me who brought their objects outside and talked to the passers-by. The street had many activities, but most of them weren’t commercial. I’d like to have more events on this day, and not only on this street! It’s a significant celebration, however some streets might not have such rich stories… We’ll take part this year too, so I’ll have to convince our ceramicist Kristina who couldn’t make it last year. I have many photos of this very building from different periods – there’s now a salon for curtains here, so maybe they’ll join us as well. Last year our neighbour, ceramicist Gediminas Šibonis organised a tour in his flat, and a large number of people came to visit him, just like they visited us. Overall, my goal is to bring people here.
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As I have always been into digging deeper, I frequently suspect people being of Tatarian origin because of their last names – I want to invite them to join our community!
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Kaunas is expanding quite rapidly today – new blocks of individual houses are surrounding the city from all sides. And although most people living here are linked to the city through their work, the bigger part of the new Kaunas is being shaped outside of the official city limits. If we were to believe that a certain caricature of a Kaunasian is true, then these new lands are really “Kaunastic” in that sense: individualism led to the need for separate houses while the financial benefits of living in the outskirts outweigh the poor state of the streets, a chaotic web of roads and a deficit of infrastructure. This is almost exactly what happened during the Interwar years: big prices of urban flats and the ability to have your own garden nudged residents to move outside of Kaunas. However, there was another dimension to it in those days: new industrial companies were settling out of the city, and the largest suburbs naturally formed around them. Those are now solid parts of Kaunas in our minds, but back then they were seen as kind of separate small towns that just had roads leading to the city. So let’s take a closer look at those “satellites” of Kaunas – Petrašiūnai, Julijanava and Veršvai-Mikalinava.
Neighbours of Kaunas, or Cities near the city By Paulius Tautvydas Laurinaitis
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Built for the top level managers of a Swedish-owned paper factory, the residential block is one of the first of its kind in the suburbs of Kaunas during the interwar period. Picture (1956) by S. Lukošius.
The Kaunas of today still actually lies within the limits that were decided on during the Interwar period and confirmed in 1943: only 20 percent of the current territory was added over the Soviet years. This shows a strong strategic urban thinking of J. Kovalskis-Kova, who was the city planner: exchanging the status of a temporary capital for a one of a Soviet industrial centre, Kaunas was developing all the time yet still managed to fit into the planned area right until the independence was regained. In 1940, however, the mentioned satellites officially became the city’s suburbs – two of them took a decade, while Petrašiūnai took two years.
In the beginning of the 1920s, Petrašiūnai was starting to look more like a town – it used to be just a little village of a few houses, surrounded by uncultivated land. The first glass factory in Lithuania was placed here, creating around 300 jobs, and this wasn’t the first industrial innovation of the country that settled in Petrašiūnai – the first white brick factory found its home here at the end of the decade. But the most powerful nudge was the construction of two other industrial objects – a thermal power plant built by the Belgian Concession and a paper factory
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Built in 1939, the Julijanava school had quite a few modernist details. Picture (2013) by the author.
owned by a group of Swedes, in 1930 and 1933 respectively. The town grew quickly, and regular road transportation to Kaunas became a daily thing. By 1938, a few thousand people were living here, using 20 grocery stores, three restaurants and two barbershops. It was the perfect location for this new industrial centre since the soil was infertile (the land was therefore cheap) and the geographical situation was just right – Petrašiūnai was pierced by a railroad, a Vilnius-Kaišiadoriai highway and the Nemunas river, which, as the press noted many times back then, “was basically running through the veins of Petrašiūnai residents”. The Nemunas was hoping to get a new role in the town’s life – in 1931, there were talks about where to build a hydroelectric power plant near Pažaislis. Despite being an industrial centre, Petrašiūnai attracted many visitors from Kaunas in summertime due to the sandy dunes and pleasant pine forests. Interestingly, Petrašiūnai was often referred to as “the only town that grew without any help after the independence was declared”. However, in 1932, it was still considered to be one of the dirtiest and dangerous spots – the police station was situated quite far away, so Petrašiūnai
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was full of crime, and “cars and motorbikes were speeding through the town, going 60 km/h instead of the allowed 35 km/h”. Petrašiūnai was the administrative centre of the Pažaislis county, generating approximately 80 percent of the region’s revenue – soon the municipality of Kaunas District started paying attention to the town and turned it into one of the cleanest places around. A big school, the most advanced sauna in the country and an administrative building of the county were all quickly built here, not to mention taking care of the town’s infrastructure and transportation. Julijanava experienced a boost when the Maistas [Food] factory was established right here in the 1920s: to no one’s surprise, the town became known as the “food neighbourhood”. However, the biggest growth was seen after the expansion of the factory in 1930-1932, and when the former minister of finance Vytautas Petrulis started parcelling his land and selling it to workers. By 1934, there were 50 houses, five shops, three pubs, a restaurant and a “fortune teller which can look at the cards for you for only 1 litas a card”. Aiming to earn more from selling land, the streets were made barely six metres
wide. Architect Vytautas Landsbergis-Žemkalnis even began using Petrašiūnai as a bad example of all urban flaws, determined by non-existent human resources and imperfect law-making: “This new Siedlung [settlement] was laid out dismissively in only two days. It’s chaotic. There’s no single, consistent, evident style. The plots of land have sharp and blunt corners, encircled by tiny streets without sewers or pavings”. This acted as a certain push in the future design of Lithuanian cities, and 1939 had one of the most modern blocks in the country built nearby – the colony of Maistas workers. The match factory opened in 1927; it was then sold to the Swedes. Most importantly, it gave a start to the development of the Mikalinava village, while Inkaras, a factory making galoshes, was built close by in 1933, helping the Veršvai village grow. The mini-agglomeration was often called “factory city”, but the residents wanted to officially name it Mindaugas, however the bureaucrats were against it. This wasn’t the only problem the residents had with the state: the small suburb was home to 2,000 people by 1938, but it was ignored by the municipality of the Raudondvaris county: the streets were dark and had no pavings, the house numeration was all wrong, and the Raudondvaris highway (which wasn’t in bad shape!) was being renewed instead of taking care of the Tilžės street, like the residents wanted. Petrašiūnai, in contrast, was presented in the press as an exemplary, clean, orderly place. Just like the Maistas factory, Inkaras was planning to build a small residential block for its workers in Veršvai, nicknamed “Inkaras [Anchor] city” by journalists. In 1931, Panemunė became a part of Kaunas along with Aukštieji Šančiai,
Freda and a few other suburbs. Expanding the city limits was critiqued on many occasions, since the suggested industrial outskirts weren’t added to the territory of Kaunas, and the mentioned areas that were included were pretty small, paying not much in taxes. Even though this issue was raised every several years, only the residents of Mikalinava and Veršvai agreed to become a part of Kaunas. People of Julijanava were against it, saying the city taxes were huge, and all landowners even signed a request to the head of the Garliava county, asking not to include the town to the formal territory of Kaunas in 1935. But many of them used the city’s infrastructure – the school in Aleksotas had over a hundred children that lived outside of city limits. Petrašiūnai kept a negative attitude towards joining Kaunas too: the early 1930s had promising plans about it, but in 1934, when the town was already clean and doing very well, the residents wanted to keep it an independent destination, suggesting that becoming a part of Kaunas would leave the rest of the Pažaislis county’s territories suffering. The fancy new municipality building became a certain manifestation of such “independence” here in 1938. Anyway, all these suburbs had to be included in the area of Kaunas according to the 1940 expansion plan. This was a way to ensure that the outskirts are consistent with the city and its network of streets, preventing any chaotic constructions, and redesigning any existing urbanist structures by following the advanced rules of urban planning. Sadly, this didn’t happen in time, but the suburbs maintained their industrial character even when they were expanded according to totally different criteria later, without paying any attention to the relevant flaws.
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West with Vorobjovas
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Two volumes of the book “Dailės istorikas ir kritikas Mikalojus Vorobjovas” [“Art historian and critic Mikalojus Vorobjovas”] were published in 2017 – they introduced one of the most significant intellectuals of the Interwar period. The amount of information in these two volumes suggests that most people will be reading about this personality for the very first time. Authors of the book focused on Mikalojus Vorobjovas (1903-1954) as a graduate of the Munich university, an explorer of the Baroque, an expert on M. K. Čiurlionis; you can also find texts by him and his peers, even letters from his family.
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The art historian aimed to move Lithuanian culture more to the West, spending many years in the academic outskirts of the country – for the most part, his works were known only to the specialists of relevant fields and separate educated individuals. The multi-layered story of M. Vorobjovas’ life made a few stops in Lithuania, Russia, Germany, ending in the USA, where, as Joseph Brodsky put it, it became “another tragedy of an intellectual from Europe”. The compiler of this long-needed publication, art researcher, professor Giedrė Jankevičiūtė speaks about the many faces of M. Vorobjovas, which finally can be explored by delving into these two volumes.
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It seems like Vorobjovas was feeling lucky in Germany – studying there, often noticed and praised by his colleagues. Why did he decide to continue his professional career in Kaunas? Well, we didn’t focus too much on this in the book, but there’s a correspondence between Vorobjovas and a buddy from Russia who stayed in Germany. He tried to talk Vorobjovas out of returning to Lithuania, saying “an art historian feels like an exotic bird there”, and the country would suffocate Mikalojus. There were many career opportunities in Germany, however they required loads of time, and getting a job with a good salary wasn’t easy. Vorobjovas was a bit afraid to come to Kaunas, but his parents probably convinced him to do it.
Mikalojus Vorobjovas in the USA. Archive of Lithuanian Art Museum, M. Vorobjovas foundation
And how did he do after returning? He moved to Kaunas in 1935, and to Vilnius in 1940. So he spent a relatively short amount of time in Kaunas, but it’s fascinating how many traces he managed to leave here. Vorobjovas was a teacher in a Jewish gymnasium, he also worked at a German bookstore called Pribačis, which was owned by the Holcmanas family. Maksas Holcmanas, by the way, published a book about M. K. Čiurlionis. The talent of Vorobjovas didn’t go unnoticed – the most important periodic publications like Vairas or Lietuvos Aidas used to print his critical articles. One of his closest friends in Kaunas was Vosylius Sezemanas, who in my opinion is also greatly underappreciated. When Vilnius became a part of Lithuania again, Vorobjovas moved there to teach, and to work at the city museum.
What was his achievements in examining M. K. Čiurlionis’ works? He basically gave the appropriate international context to the artworks of Čiurlionis. Even in the beginning of the 21st century, our researchers were arguing about how to link all of Čiurlionis’ modernism together considering that he was a symbolist. When Vorobjovas was writing his habilitation thesis, the Čiurlionis situation was pretty clear – the painter was a symbolist during the period of early modernism. And Vorobjovas portrayed that perfectly: he wrote in a direct, transparent, understandable and definite manner, avoiding complex terms that other art critics discussing Čiurlionis used to manipulate; he also backed away from metaphors or explanations leading nowhere. Vorobjovas was a master of specifying the goals of the artists from that period – he used the freshest literature at the time, and his text allowed the reader to feel the author’s solid preparation process as well as his education and the talent to gather and combine the relevant in-
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Could we say that this work by Vorobjovas steered Čiurlionis towards the context of Western culture? He never had the chance to defend his thesis, so he published separate parts of this work in Lithuanian publications. In 1938, he released a book about Čiurlionis in German – this publication was a tool for the Lithuanian cultural propaganda, using M. K. Čiurlionis as the main personality within it. Vorobjovas was also part of an interesting publicity campaign for this book, contacting the celebrities of European art criticism and asking them for texts he could use to advertise the book and the works of Čiurlionis. He printed these short reviews on multilingual flyers; there are even some advertising stickers left in the archive! Lithuanian diplomats working in foreign countries helped him to promote the book.
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formation, evaluate and understand it. The text is far from getting old, even in terms of the language or information.
So the answer about the influence that this book had is quite a controversial one. The monography on Čiurlionis was published just before the war, when Europe could already smell the gunpowder. Such political circumstances simply made it almost impossible to talk about some symbolist artist, no matter how original or refined he might have been. And how did his book “Vilniaus menas” [“Vilnius art”] do? This book was published at the wrong time too, in the spring of 1940, when Lithuania was seconds away from Soviet occupation. There were those who read “Vilniaus menas”, but there weren’t many of them. It was seen as a political text (this once again proves that the work of Vorobjovas was noticed and deemed to be of
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the highest level) to the residents of “the Lithuania of Kaunas”, who had to tame the historic capital city Vilnius that was returned to them. Interestingly, Vorobjovas wrote “Vilniaus menas” very quickly, yet the results were impressive: the book was praised by many local intellectuals, including Tomas Venclova, who said it helped him fall in love with the architecture of Vilnius, understand it and appreciate it. Vanda Zaborskaitė beautifully described the influence that “Vilniaus menas” had on romantic, idealist youngsters from the provinces of war, who came to the capital that was in ruins and used the insights of M. Vorobjovas to see a shining historic city in an almost destroyed Vilnius. The author displays the changes of the city perfectly, combining all the elements of the Renaissance, Baroque, Classicism and Mannerism. He wasn’t a fan of Historicism though, probably because of the ideological motives too as he was inspired by many Polish authors. He believed that everything done by the Tsar was bad for Lithuania and its culture, so the architecture symbolising this period is ugly in itself already. This was a popular opinion of those days, but that doesn’t mean that Vorobjovas wasn’t a man of principles and bravery when it came to defending an uncomfortable truth. For instance, the author took a very courageous political and civic stance when he reacted to the aggressive national attack on modernists. I’m talking about the critique by Vincas Rastenis on the expressionist graphic art of Viktoras Petravičius and on open emotionality as a whole, “using deformation to express it”, as the attackers noted. V. Rastenis wasn’t alone – Ignas Šlapelis, who was admired by the politicians, wrote about the need for stricter censorship in Lithuania, preventing young people to indulge in meaningless egocentric art experiments and instead nudging them to
create things that would be useful to the state and the nation. Vorobjovas was very harsh with his feedback on this opinion, and he probably was the first one to comment on the “degenerating art culture” in Germany, telling people about the confiscated artworks by modernists – these pieces were then sold, often destroyed. Vorobjovas informed Lithuanian readers about the first auction of “degenerate art” in Lucerne, June of 1939. Whenever he used to notice any signs of taking away the freedom to create or think in Lithuania, Vorobjovas opposed it publically right away. The spectrum of his opinions and people he spent time with was wide: he had more conservative friends as well as avant-gardists, modernists. There’s one letter by Henry Parland to M. Vorobjovas left in the archive – obviously, they had a mutual understanding, and the famous bohemian unconstraint of the Finnish poet, pioneer of avant-garde in his country, was not a problem to the Lithuanian author at all. The letters by Vorobjovas’ mother tell us that there was a lot of sitting through the night, Easter breakfasts turning into a very late dinners, card games and a good deal of cigarette smoke. By the way, Vorobjovas was a keen smoker all throughout his life – there are even letters from the director of a tobacco factory in Vilnius, inviting Vorobjovas to come to the factory to take his smokes. The businessman was sincerely helping national intellectuals of Lithuania like Balys Sruoga or Mikalojus Vorobjovas – he was making sure they didn’t run out of cigarettes or tobacco, both of which were valuable products during a time of war. The archive of Vorobjovas is a true treasure: among other notes, there’s a small piece of paper with his to-do list. The fourth thing on the list is 1
Giedrė Jankevičiūtė. photo by Teodoras Biliūnas
“the filming plan”. Perhaps that meant consulting a director of photography Stepas Uzdonas, who filmed the historic spots of Vilnius – the video tape was returned from Krasnogorsk, Russia in 2015; it’s now at the Lithuanian Central State Archives1. Others believe that “the filming plan” was about Alfonsas Žibas’ movie “Vilniaus miesto paminklai” [“Sculptures of Vilnius”]. Vorobjovas had a very progressive and contemporary take on using new means of communication to spread the word about culture and the arts. He gave lectures on the radio, wrote clear and understandable texts about the art heritage of Lithuania, and was even planning to use cinematography as a new tool to speak to the masses about culture. This up-to-date approach probably came from his former professor Wilhelm Pinder. Researchers of Pinder’s works state that without any doubt the professor would’ve been a TV star if only television had become the window to the world earlier, before World War II, and not after it.
, www.e-kinas.lt/objektas/kinas/5720/vokieciu-okupacijos-laiku-vilnius 2018
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In Šilainiai, by the Baltic Sea By Gunars Bakšejevs Photos by Donatas Stankevičius
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The whole autumn and winter had the coordinators of Kaunas 2022’s programme Fluxus Labas! [Fluxus Labs] crocheting blankets in Kaunas and Kaunas District, which were then combined into a single large one and sent to the Netherlands to be part of the project to create the biggest, recordbreaking crochet blanket in the world. The idea was born in Leeuwarden, this year’s culture capital of Europe. And the Kaunas 2022 team is… crocheting again. But this time they’re knitting the festival of courtyards together, which will begin on the 24th of May, during the second Courtyard Celebration on Laisvės Avenue, and it might actually never end. That’s not true though – the final event of the festival is already planned, but it’s exciting to think about a positive project not having an end. We’re thinking about this with Egidijus Bagdonas, coordinator of community laboratories.
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The courtyard of Egidijus’ childhood is on Baltijos street, in the “fourth” Šilainiai neighbourhood, which people often refer to as Milikoniai (in respect of the name of the village that used to be here). Another curator of Fluxus Labs, Evelina Šimkutė is also from Šilainiai – we visited the roof of her nine-storey residential building in the autumn of 2016, before Kaunas got the title of the culture capital. The community labs are coordinated by “agents” that know these neighbourhoods – they were either born here, raised here or are living here. There are eight such agents (with three additional explorers) in Kaunas and Kaunas District at the moment – in Šilainiai, Eiguliai, Dainava, Šančiai, Vilijampolė, Žaliakalnis, Sargėnai, the territories around Garliava, Akademija and Zapyškis. The team plans to have a total of 35 agents –
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that’s almost the number of counties in the region. Interestingly, the communities of the Kaunas District are more active than the ones in Kaunas city since the infrastructure for it is a bit better – the district people typically have leisure halls, cultural centres, whereas the neighbourhoods in Kaunas, in most cases, lack such places. Let’s start with the Courtyard Festival and its opening event – the Courtyard Celebration. Will it be different this year? The location will change. On May 24th, artist Vytenis Jakas and Kiemo gallery, Centro Būstas, and us, Fluxus Labs, will invite everyone to celebrate in the renewed part of the Laisvės Avenue – from around Soboras to the A. Mickevičiaus street. Let’s all sit around a massive joint table and share everything. We
don’t want this to turn into a fair, so nothing will be sold outside. We didn’t need to change anything else since the idea of a courtyard celebration is an old one – many countries have such events, but not all people want to open themselves to it. And they don’t have to. That’s the principle we follow when organising this – we’re happy about those who join us in Kaunas, and we’re definitely not forcing those who don’t. Are those who wish to join you doing it to get the attention of other communities, or maybe to spark the curiosity of neighbours? Some of them sincerely want to be part of a big celebration for the whole city, others try to get to know the locals first and then start inviting people. So far, our agents are assembling teams of like-minded individuals to organise the small celebrations for particular communities. Almost all of these are open – I doubt that someone would close the door if you came. Building a network is what’s important. The Courtyard Festival, with a different name, was included in the application of Kaunas 2022 to get the title, right? Right, we just didn’t plan the date or the structure. We wrote about residencies for professional artists, and now we have a clear idea for it – you can invite foreign artists, but is that really what the communities need? We want to nurture them, strengthen them, build strong bonds between them. We as coordinators are just helping these organisms grow. International curators and contemporary artists will join the communities later. In fact, we’ll start talking during the European Capital of Culture Forum on May 18-19th.
Will the Courtyard Festival have a detailed programme, or will its calendar just be open and free? Since we’re supporting the existing initiatives, the calendar will be free, even chaotic at times. For instance, the residents of Dainava want to organise their celebration at the beginning of June, whereas a few destinations are thinking about July or August. Some feel the State Day of Lithuania (Coronation of King Mindaugas) is important, others will go on a bicycle trip or a picnic by the river Neris, while Šilainiai will have sports-themed celebrations almost every week, and Šančiai will try to catch up as well. We don’t want to tell people to organise something here and then; we don’t control the content. However, if the communities want to, we can help them spread the word about the events since the communication problem is a frequent one. How to reach an audience, that is the question! The grand finale will take place in Samylai (Kaunas District), on the 25th of August, with the event “Pėdos marių dugne” [“Footprints at the bottom of the lagoon”]. This annual celebration is counting several years now; it’s filled with legends about the deep lagoon. As you know, the Kaunas Lagoon is a result of damming the Nemunas river – tens of villages were flooded, and many backyards with them. This is where we overlap with the programme of river recreation of Kaunas 2022. Right! Your village is your backyard. How loose are you in interpreting the notion of a courtyard in the context of the Fluxus Labs programme? We believe that a courtyard can be any place to gather and do something together.
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There are very different communities out there, so the yard can be either an open or a closed one. Some communities want to open up, but maybe they don’t know (or have) a few things to make that happen, or perhaps no one comes to visit since the community is not trying hard enough. Ideas can get old as well. Then there are those who are about rethinking things, and that’s where we can be most useful.
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A few people have said that successful examples from foreign countries don’t really apply here, while others beg us to tell them more about creative placemaking and community art in the world. For instance, Lewis Biggs, art director of Kaunas 2022, spoke about local research in order to understand your city and look for interesting spots that you could activate. The easiest method is to assemble people close to a school or a mound if there’s one, but no one typically talks about other possibilities. “What if no one comes? What if it’s unsafe?”. Of course, those afraid of the change come to the annual events and see that not many locals take part, because… nothing changes. When we started organising events at the Seventh Fort, a few individuals said “no one would ever come to that junkyard”, but people came. And they came back the next year. Maybe a change of play is all we need. We’re going to a yard, after all, a place for playing. We just need to have better reasons to come there. Or meet people when they’re going home after work. Precisely! When these activities didn’t have the name Fluxus Labs yet, my philosophy was to make as many “obstacles” in everyday routes as possible – then people have to stop, to listen. For example, there was a project of surprise tours, when a tour guide would get on a public bus
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and start telling everyone what they see through the bus windows. Even those who were riding that bus for 20 years found out something new! I was lucky to participate in that one. As a local of Šilainiai, can you tell us more about the Seventh Fort? It was abandoned for a long time, however it doesn’t have a negative aura about it. It wasn’t used even during war times, and one older man living nearby told us that there was a pond in that place around 1960, with clean water from the springs coming in. People bathed in the pond. Later, Milikoniai started growing, the residents took care of the sewers and the pond was gone. Now the fort is being renovated, events are being organised, even nightly poetry readings. What would you like to leave after yourself when you finish your career as a Fluxus Labs coordinator? What’s the purpose of this project to you? As a philosopher, I enjoy exploring different locations, roaming around in terms of semantics and semiotics, reading urban poems, watching the city’s choreography and broadcasting the stories to others. It’s all very captivating for me, and I’d like the agents of Fluxus Labs to feel it, gathering more details to create interesting narratives. When I was maybe fourteen, I became part of an ethnography club – my classmates and I decided that the inner city is nothing too spectacular, so we went all the way to Dotnuva. It’s as if I didn’t move away from similar activities, but now I see more meaning in them. And we can create that meaning ourselves. I’m always eager to tell foreign artists that come to Šilainiai about the Baltic Sea here, made of asphalt. I grew up on the coast of it, on Baltijos street. I probably saw the real Baltic Sea when I was already 12, but I felt that I’m living
The aim of our team is to make the laboratories fearless in experimenting, to make “fluxus” not only a name of the project but also the active idea behind it, finding new forms for it every day. I’d like to see more community spaces for people to gather. I’m not talking about some identical yellow containers – flats, garages, cafés would do just fine too. Maybe a theatre? It’s not up to us to come up with the form.
While reading the community comments about the mentioned project for the huge blanket, I stumbled upon a good quote: “It’s nice to feel as a part of something bigger”. Would you agree? Absolutely. And someone has to organise that bigger part. You can make a yard celebration happen at any time, but you still need a day, a location. It’s great if that particular day means something to the people, if it makes them say “let’s do something today”.
Can your programme help communities when talking to the city’s municipality? That is, can community art really be useful in solving real problems? For sure. Playing and activating are linked. Often talking about it makes the problem evident, while the problem brings the community together. For instance, a local park in bad shape is an opportunity – residents can work together to get others interested in the relevant issues by showing enthusiasm. I’d call it creative resistance, but the fight for an idea doesn’t have to be based on anger. Fluxus Labs can act as a middleman – I spend a lot of time get-
If our backyard would have many apples and we’d like to organise a happening to pick them, can we write to you even if the Courtyard Festival would already have begun? You can. Even though we couldn’t include it in the printed programme, we’d publicise it in a different fashion. By the way, an apple celebration takes place in Babtai already! The Kaunas District is a magical place, and it never stops to surprise us. For instance, there’s an old fishing village next to the Nemunas – just a few houses with a single resident, who can make a tremendous fish soup!
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ting people to sit at one table and helping them start solving the problems.
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very close to it here: crossing streets like they were bridges, watching the sunsets, listening to cars roaring like waves. I’d like to hear more personal stories like this.
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We keep talking more about and visiting the forts of the Kaunas Fortress. Some of them, such as the Ninth Fort and its memorial, are an obvious part of the Kaunasian identity, others are still looking for their new face and function. The Seventh Fort, which is close to the Kaunas Clinics, has plenty of faces and ideas.
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The first concentration camp of World War II in Nazioccupied territories was founded at this very fort – from 3,000 to 5,000 people were killed here. Today, the fort has a completely different function compared to the one planned in the Tsar’s documents or decided on by war criminals.
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When we were writing about Kaunasian childhood in our edition of last summer, we mentioned a live museum of the Seventh Fort that’s being created every day, at least that’s how the head of the fort Vladimiras Orlovas and his team introduce their work on the website. They don’t really limit themselves to being a plain museum – the fort has classes on getting to know nature in a contemporary way, scientific experiments that wouldn’t find their place in conventional schools. Almost every week, the team announces that they’ve received or built a fresh machine, a new programme or something else. In May, we introduce the things that came here from Kaunas.
Cassette “City Lfie” by Channel 37
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The electronic music composer who said no to the computer uses analogue equipment from past decades, but that doesn’t mean it all sounds outdated. The audio cassette by the Denmark-based Kaunasian was published by an international company that’s into experimenting with sounds as well as formats.
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Are you admirers of the art by Česlovas Lukenskas or Aušra Vaitkūnienė? Now you can tell that to the whole world with a T-Shirt that has their artworks on it. This unusual move by the gallery working with the two artists is a clever and long-awaited one. Can Kaunas become the home to the first ultras of art?
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Album “Lietuvos kaimo turguose” [“Village markets of Lithuania”] by Aleksandras Macijauskas
Album “Prie pažįstamo pasaulio krašto” [“At the edge of a known world”] by Rimaldas Vikšraitis
Art critic Agnė Narušytė wrote that “the markets of Macijauskas are self-evident masterpieces of Lithuanian photography”, and she’s absolutely right. Just like in our minds we see Jean-Paul Sartre through the lens of Antanas Sutkus, we can frame Lithuanian markets into the photos by Aleksandras Macijauskas. This album could become the start of a long journey for those wishing to know more about Lithuania than just seeing the Trakai Castle.
At first glance, the discussed album by A. Macijauskas would probably seem close to the retrospective one by R. Vikšraitis, however such a juxtaposition would result in both albums losing their true essence. Yes, Vikšraitis focuses on the sort of Lithuania that we don’t usually show to others, we’d never put it on postcards, but the artist’s take is drastically different and is therefore worth exploring.
Lithuanian Photographers Association, Kaunas department, €40 www.kaunasgallery.lt
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Lithuanian Photographers Association, Kaunas department, €39 www.kaunasgallery.lt
Screenprint “Motif” www.motifprintstudio.com
“Motif” are based in London, but both of the founders of the printshop and workshop space are Lithuanian. One of them, Greta Balčiūnaitė, did our cover last year; she also collaborates with a kaunastic philosophy publishing house called “Jonas and Jokubas”. Take a look at their print gallery!
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Calendar Theatre Thursday, 05 10, 19:00
Dance performance “Somaholidays”
Sunday, 05 20, 11:00 and 13:00
Performance “Pasakų namai” [“Fairytale House” Kaunas State Puppet Theatre, Laisvės al. 87A
On an assembly line on 120 beats per minute, three dancers from different generations examine the theme of escapism. They search for means to enter a state of somaholidays as described in the dystopian novel Brave New World by Aldous Huxley – an artificially induced catharsis, a threshold to more real reality without guilt, shame or civic accountability.
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Kaunas City Chamber Theatre, Kęstučio g. 74A
Saturday, 05 12, 19:00
Friday, 05 25, 18:00
Performance “Mirties gyvenimas“ [“The Life of Death”]
Performance “Vestuvės” [“ Wedding”]
Kaunas City Chamber Theatre, Kęstučio g. 74A
“A Respectable Wedding” by Bertolt Brecht talks about society’s moral duplicity. In the play, the plot revolves around the premarital loss of the bride’s virginity. In the performance, Oskaras Koršunovas and his actors look deeper.
An optimistic performance demystifying the contrary idea of death is directed by Pepa Diaz-Meco (Spain). Its single actor is Jose Manuel Graca who’s Portuguese - the performance will be interpreted into Lithuanian.
Kaunas City Chamber Theatre, Kęstučio g. 74A
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“East, West, home’s best”, reminds us an educational performance for 3-year olds and beyond directed by Rasa Bartninkaitė.
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May Saturday, 05 26, 12:00
Performance “Žiogas Zigmas Žalgirio mūšyje” [“Grasshopper Zigmas in the Battle of Grunwald”]
Saturday, 05 26, 18:00
Performance “Cinkas” [“Zinc”] Kaunas State Drama Theatre, Laisvės al. 71
Kaunas State Puppet Theatre, Laisvės al. 87A
The puppetmaster Aloyzas Žiogas can’t wait to tell you all about his relative grasshopper Zigmas who helped Vytautas the Great to win the Battle of Grunwald. Directed by Agnė Sunklodaitė. Saturday, 05 26, 12:00
Performance “Bambeklis bajoras” [‘The Grumbling Nobleman”]
Based on a book by Svetlana Aleksijevich, the play directed by Eimuntas Nekrošius presents a finished époque that left many scars in people’s lives. Saturday, 05 26, 18:00
Operetta “Vienos kraujas” [“Viennese Blood”] Kaunas State Musical Theatre, Laisvės al. 91
„Girstutis“, Kovo 11-osios g. 26
Directed by Aidas Giniotis, the founder of Keistuolių theatre, the performance is part of a trilogy that invites kids of all ages to a journey with a Lithuanian nobleman.
50 years have passed since the waltz of J. Strauss was first played in the Kaunas State Musical Theatre. The operetta is forever young and never fails to attract and impress both veterans and new audiences.
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Calendar Friday, 06 01, 18:00
Saturday, 06 02, 19:00
Kaunas State Drama Theatre (Mažoji scena), Laisvės al. 71
Kaunas Central Bookstore, Laisvės al. 81
The play written by Birutė Kapustinskaitė (directed by Paulius Markevičius) carries on the ideas from Kahlil Gibran’s trilogy of “The Prophet’s Garden”, “The Prophet” and the unfinished “The Death of the Prophet”. The story created for the performance is of a community that has blind faith in their leader. They are waiting for the Prophet’s appearance; however, when faced with unexpected events, they lose their bearings and are not able to communicate among themselves anymore.
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Performance “Vietiniai” [“The Locals”]
Saturday, 06 02, 12:00
Performance “Megztinis” [“Sweater”]
Performance “Noktiurnas” [“Nocturne”]
Gytis Padegimas is one of the most productive Lithuanian directors who staged over a hundred plays here and abroad. Together with a theatre, cinema and TV actor Dovydas Stončius, the director will present a tragic story about forgiveness in the largest bookstores and libraries of Lithuania.
Exhibitions 04 26 – 06 03
Duncan Higgins “Down on the Farm” M. Žilinskas Art Gallery, Nepriklausomybės a. 12
Kaunas City Chamber Theatre, Kęstučio g. 74A
The play directed by Gildas Aleksa and based on the works of Donald Bisset tells us about two girls whose mother doesn’t know any fairy tales – but their grandma does.
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In 2012 Duncan Higgins presented an exhibition at M. Žilinskas art gallery, titled “Unloud” that was a response to his experiences on and related to The Solovki Archipelago in northern Russia from 2005 to 2011. Higgins has returned to Kaunas with his new works that further explore related events in north Russia and Lithuania. The exhibition consists of over 1000 paintings, works on paper, textiles and a book.
May 05 09 – 05 31
“Reconsider Design” M. Žilinskas Art Gallery, Nepriklausomybės a. 12
Thirty carefully selected eco-projects in the exhibition (part of Design Week) are intended to encourage visitors to reconsider their daily habits and reduce the negative impact of human activities on the environment, without sacrificing quality or the items’ unique character. 05 10 – 09 01
“Priešaušris. Lietuvos dailė iki 1918 m.” [“Break of Dawn. Lithuanian Visual Arts before 1918”] National M. K. Čiurlionis Museum of Art, V. Putvinskio g. 55
05 10 – 05 13
„Gallery Weekend Kaunas 2018“ Multiple locations
The Gallery Weekend Kaunas (GWK) is traditionally marking the end of the gallery season. For the third year in a row, we celebrate GWK by entering public spaces and drawing an updated cultural sky-map with the city’s cultural initiatives. The organisers present a selection of nearly 30 events which will take place in galleries and other areas of the city, opened just for one weekend.
Thursday, 05 10 Gallery Weekend Kaunas 2018 Opening: exhibitions, performance, concert, 6 pm
Temporary M. K. Čiurlionis gallery and J. Vienožinskis art faculty gallery Bright & Showy Kaunas, A. Mackevičiaus g. 27 The idea for the exhibition stemmed from the wish to introduce to the society the works of art of the beginning of the 20th century which are most significant to the contemporary culture of Lithuania stored at M.K. Čiurlionis National Museum of Art and in private collections. The organisers intended to unite the art research and historical materials thus recreating in the halls of the museum the resilient spirit of the times.
Friday, 05 11 Opening of Textiles and Ceramics students’ works exhibition, 3 pm
Vilnius Academy of Arts, Faculty of Kaunas, Garage gallery, V. Sladkevičiaus g. 6
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Calendar Laura Marija Balčiūnaitė, exhibition “Dream Sequence” and performance “Come to my tent”, 4 pm Vytautas Magnus University art gallery “101”, Muitinės g. 7
Special program of GWK2018, opening of an exhibition, 4:30 pm
Graphics students’ works exhibition “€ 1,95”, opening, 5 pm Vilnius Academy of Arts, Faculty of Kaunas, Muitinės st. 2
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Cellar gallery, Muitinės st. 7
Zine picnic, 1 pm – 4 pm
Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56
Mantas Mikutavičius, installation “Time Machine” and the performative process of hot glass moulding, 1 pm – 3 pm M. K. Čiurlionis National Museum of Art, V. Putvinskio g. 55
Meeting with authors. 12‘th Baltic States contemporary ceramics exhibition „Spring 2018“ and Aušra Andziulytė, “Engraved images”, 6 pm
“Į, Journal of Kaunas”. Presentation of the second edition, 2 pm
“Meno parkas” gallery, Rotušės a. 27
M. K. Čiurlionis National Museum of Art, V. Putvinskio g. 55
Exhibition opening. Ivars Gravlejs, “Creativity and research”, 7 pm
Reading group “Reading extended” with artist Liza Baliasnaja, 3 pm – 5 pm
Kaunas Photography Gallery, Vilniaus g. 2
KAH residencies: “Kaunas Study”. Dalia Mikonytė and Adomas Žudys video installation, a live performance by Pijus Džiugas Meižys (Münpauzn), 8:30 pm Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56
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Contemporary art and theory bookstore “Six Chais Books”, V. Putvinskio g. 56
Meeting with authors. Exhibition “Youthful painting of Kaunas and Riga’18”, 3:15 pm
Kaunas Picture Gallery, K. Donelaičio g. 16
May Project “In the City. In the Street. Gallery without walls”, 4 pm
Kaunas Picture Gallery, K. Donelaičio g. 16
Architectural exhibition “Architectural Symbiosis. Between Man and Nature”, excursion with an architect Vika Pranaitytė, 5 pm POST gallery, Laisvės al. 51A
„Un/Natural Field Recordings / Natural Overdubs”, a collaborative experimental sound performance organised by “Matters. Platform for Industrial Culture”, part of Kaunas 2022, 7 pm “Šelteris“, Vytauto pr. 79
GWK2018 afterparty: “Bionics“ live, 9 pm “O kodėl ne?”, Perkūno al. 4
Sunday, 05 13 Open studio: creative activities for families with children by painter Milda Gailiūtė, 1 pm – 5 pm
Art Studio “Meno kelias“, Laisvės al. 46
More events pilnas.kaunas.lt
Open studio: discover “Teatro Fabrikas” together with the Department of Graphic Design of VAA Faculty of Kaunas, 1 pm – 5 pm Spaces of “Teatro fabrikas”, Kęstučio g. 62
Open studio: educational activity “Joyful Art Laboratory” for families with children by glass artist Sandra Atkočiūtė, 1 pm – 2 pm “Stiklo namai”, A. Mapu g. 20
Tour around photography exhibition “In a Search of Hope in Ashes: Stories from Afghanistan” by Vaiva Bezhan, 2 pm Kaunas Cultural Centre of Various Nations, Šv. Gertrūdos g. 58
KAH residencies: Paulina Drėgvaitė and Nick Wood “Waste”, Youtube presentation and discussion, 5 pm Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56
KAH residencies: Paulina Drėgvaitė and Nick Wood “Good things happen when I leave the house”, Youtube party, 6 pm
Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56
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Calendar 05 19 – 06 09
“The Concrete City”
Music
Gallery “Nyčės ūsai”, Pilies g. 1 Sunday, 05 06, 16:00
Carillon concert by Julius Vilnonis
The collection of Celsius 273, created together with architect Ligita Ažukaitė-Lileikė, is devoted to Kaunas city interwar architecture. Seven of the most prominent structures of architecture were selected, and different jewellery concrete details were created, reflecting the primary accents of these buildings.
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Vytautas the Great War Museum garden, K. Donelaičio g. 64
05 30 – 06 13
Kaunas Comics Residency: Liisa Kruusmägi Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56
Liisa Kruusmägi, the Estonian artist, working in the mediums of painting, illustration and comics, is the resident of Kaunas Comics Residency. Her main creative inspiration is travelling. While travelling throughout the world, the artist has participated in a variety of exhibitions and collaborations that move beyond the framework of illustration – Liisa Kruusmägi has also created performance art, animation and sculpture works.
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Maestro Julius Vilnonis will have the pleasure to announce the start of the carillon concert season. The unique instrument will be heard every Sunday – the program, compiled by Austėja Staniūnaitytė and Julius Vilnonis, will include both classics and unexpected discoveries. Sunday, 05 06, 17:00
Mother’s day concert Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5
Conducted by Vilmantas Kaliūnas, the Kaunas City Symphony Orchestra will perform music by Bedržich Smetana, inspired by the nature, history and traditions of Bohemia region.
More events pilnas.kaunas.lt
May Tuesday, 05 08, 21:00
Friday, 05 11, 21:00
Club “Lemmy”, Girstupio g. 1
Club “Sandėlis”, Muziejaus g. 8
Live: Blaze Bailey
The ex-member of Iron Maiden broke dozens of hearts in Kaunas last year. He’s now back with another legend, Luke Appleton from Iced Earth.
Live: “Freaks on Floor”
For the past ten years, Freaks on Floor have been active in the fields of funk, grunge and hard rock. They have scored a handful of awards and have released four studio albums. Time to meet them face to face!
Friday, 05 11, 18:00
Season closing night
Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5
Conducted by Constantine Orbelian, the Kaunas City Symphony Orchestra will present a wide array of the best known Lithuanian composers, including Juozas Naujalis, Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis, Balys Dvarionas etc., as well as a selection of world classics.
Saturday, 05 19, 20:00
Live: Baltasis kiras” “Largo”, Vaistinės skg.
Bright, crisp and romantic, yet funky and very danceable – no wonder the band has a massive audience in Kaunas.
More events pilnas.kaunas.lt
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Calendar Thursday, 05 24, 19:00
Painting, music and video art performance “Haruspicija” Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56
Tuesday, 05 29, 20:00
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Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56 The concert series dedicated to new music is back for the fourth time and this time focuses on contemporary electronic sounds performed live. Jūra Elena Šedytė and Gintė Preisaitė both fall under the electroacoustic music category.
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Live: “3MA”
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Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5
Vytautas Labutis and Artūras Šlipas have been experimenting with their avant-garde performances for 30 years now. “Haruspicija” is a living organism that never repeats itself and has travelled around the world. The performance would fit well in the avant-garde theatre category. Thursday, 05 24, 20:00
Live: “Junior A”
“PuntoJazz” attic, Kęstučio g. 6 The Lithuanian alternative electronic pop music prodigy has just released a new album called “The Day He Disappeared”. Expect something different – again!
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“3MA” is a band that connects three highest level musicians from very different African regions geographically and culturally: the kora master Ballake Sissoko (Mali), the oud virtuoso Driss El Maloumi (Morocco) and the valiha (tubular citrus) performer Rajery (Madagascar).
May Cinema Wednesday, 05 09, 18:00
05 12 – 05 13
Japanese movie festival Cinema “Romuva”, Kęstučio g. 62
“Redoubtable” Cinema “Romuva”, Kęstučio g. 62
The 2017 French biographical comedy-drama film written and directed by Michel Hazanavicius is about the affair of revered filmmaker Jean-Luc Godard with Anne Wiazemsky in the late-1960s. Friday, 05 11, 16:45
“Pagan Ring”
Cinema “Romuva”, Kęstučio g. 62
The Japanese Embassy in Lithuania, together with the Japanese Foundation, has been organising the festival for 17 years. This year, the screenings take place in 7 cities around Lithuania. Four movies are selected for Kaunas. Tuesday, 05 15, 19:00
“Apocalypse Now. Redux” “Forum Cinemas Kaunas”, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 49
The Pagan King is a historical fiction action film directed by Aigars Grauba and co-written by Max Kinnings and Grauba. The film stars Edvin Endre, James Bloor, Aistė Diržiūtė and others. Dedicated to the Centennial of Latvia.
Francis Ford Coppola’s masterpiece is considered one of the best movies about the Vietnam war. Don’t miss the chance to see the director’s cut (2011) on the big screen.
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Calendar Friday, 05 18, 18:00
“Deadpool” marathon
As the second part of “Deadpool” is hitting the screens worldwide, how about seeing it together with the too funny and very innovative first movie?
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“Forum Cinemas Kaunas”, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 49
05 01 – 05 31
Like Bike 100 000 km challenge Kaunas and Kaunas district
Last year, for the “Challenge of the European Bicycle 2017”, Kaunasians travelled more than 70k kilometres on their bikes. For the Lithuanian centennial, we’re now ready to score 100k during May! Join us in the Naviki app.
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Tuesday, 05 08, 18:00
FC Stumbras – FC Kauno Žalgiris S. Darius and S. Girėnas stadium, Perkūno al. 5
The kaunastic derby will take place at a historic landmark that’ll hopefully soon be properly renovated. Wednesday, 05 09, 18:30
BC Kauno Žalgiris – BC Prienų-Birštono Vytautas “Žalgirio” arena, araliaus Mindaugo pr. 50
The Ball brothers have left Lithuania, but Vytautas, the team they played for still has to finish the season. Catch Žalgiris at home before their big Euroleague weekend in Belgrade!
May Friday, 05 18, 18:00
“Naktinis krepšinis” [“Basketball at Night”] Shopping town “Urmas”, Pramonės pr. 16
06 01 – 06 03
Formula Junior race Nemunas ring, Kačerginė, Kaunas district
Back in 1960, when the Nemunas ring held its first-ever motor race, Formula Junior was already into its 3rd season. It‘s time for the two to meet face to face! Basketball in the dark is a lot of fun. Even more fun when accompanied by loud hip-hop music, breakdancers, skaters and BMX riders. Add some graffiti on top and cancel you Saturday brunch!
05 26 – 05 27
UIM F2 World Championship Kaunas reservoir
Water formulas can speed as fast as 190 km/h! Last year, the debut session in Kaunas was a blast, and we can’t wait to meet the pilots from around the world again.
More events pilnas.kaunas.lt
Other events 05 02 – 05 13
KAH residencies: „My soul knows my meat is doing bad things“
Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56 Artists and curators Paulina Drėgvaitė (UK/LT) and Nick Wood (UK) will establish an open studio within KAH in which they will be developing Ma new artistic collaboration exploring the notions of failure, boredom and waste. Combining differing backgrounds from both film curation and contemporary art this new project hopes to explore interests within countercultures, defining anti-productivity and alternative modes of archiving. Viewing YouTube as an archive of everyday micro-histories, this project aims to locate alternatives to the notions of success and productivity that dominate the societal discourse. Meet the artists on May 4th, 8th and 13th.
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Calendar 05 05 – 05 06
Weekend in Šančiai “PasiŠANČinėkim” Multiple locations
Wednesday, 05 09, 18:00
Book presentation: “Prezidento žvalgas: du gyvenimai” [“President Agent: Two Lives”]
The residents of lower and higher Šančiai neighbourhoods of Kaunas are inviting to discover the history of the area (including a gunpowder warehouse!) by foot, bike or bus. 05 07 – 05 13
“Dizaino savaitė 2018” [“Design Week 2018”] Multiple locations
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Kaunas Central Bookstore, Laisvės al. 81
The Lithuanian intelligence is celebrating its Centennial in 2018. The book by Arvydas Anušauskas is dedicated to Albinas Čiuoderis, one of its first employees. His memoirs were accidentally discovered in Colombia, where he moved to start a new life.
05 09 – 05 10
VDU Spring festival Multiple locations
Lectures, sports tournaments, dance shows, social initiatives and much more invite thousands of students (future students and alumnae, too!) of Vytautas Magnus University to come together every spring. Can’t miss it! Thursday, 05 10, 17:00
The annual event dedicated to the synthesis of insightful solutions, original ideas and professional performance, while at the same time highlighting the value of good design, takes place in six cities in Lithuania. In Kaunas, enjoy exhibitions, workshops, conferences, discussions, open evenings and other events organised by the participants of the festival, as well as pop-up design displays installed in the windows of shops or cafés located in the city centre.
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Book presentation: “Vilniaus geto dienoraštis” [“Vilnius Ghetto Diary”] Kaunas city council Vincas Kudirka public library, department of youth music and art, A. Mapu g. 18
May “I think my words are written in blood,” Yitzhak Rudashevski wrote in his diary inscribed in school notebooks. After reaching the age of 15 in the ghetto, Rudashevski and his family were murdered in Ponar. His only living relative, Sora Voloshin, also a Jewish partisan soldier, discovered his diary after the war in the family’s hiding place and gave it to Abraham Sutzkever and Szmerke Kaczerginski. The book has been published in many languages previously–in English in 1973–but this is the first full edition in Lithuanian.
Saturday, 05 12, 11:00
Kite festival “Tarp žemės ir dangaus” [“Between Earth and Sky”] Zapyškis, Kaunas district
For almost three decades kite enthusiasts, mostly families (thousands of them!), have been gathering in Nemunas valley in Zapyškis, district of Kaunas, near a charming little church, to colour the sky for one day.
More events pilnas.kaunas.lt
Wednesday, 05 16, 18:30
Kaunas Comics Residency: Workshop with Kaunas Comics Residency Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56
Liisa Kruusmägi (Estonia) will lead a comics workshop which is open to all, no previous experience is required. The participants of the workshop will have the opportunity to enjoy a variety of drawing games and experiments Liisa Kruusmägi uses in the workshops she conducts in Estonia with MUST JOON, an artistic collective.
Thursday, 05 17, 11:30 – 22:00
“Open Kitchen Kaunas” Nemunas island
Every Thursday is street food day in Kaunas! The street food market offers approximately 15 to 20 choices every week, so get out there and choose your favourite food truck and world cuisine before the Summer is over.
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Calendar Friday, 05 18, 10:00 – 15:00
Fascination of Plants Day VMU Kaunas Botanical Garden
The goal of the Fascination of Plants Day is to get as many people as possible fascinated by plants and enthused about the importance of plant science. The role of plants in environmental conservation is also a key message.
European Capital of Culture Forum 2018 “Žalgirio” arena, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 50
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05 18 – 05 19
The aim of the first international forum organised by Kaunas 2022 team is to to present the programme of European culture capitals by European Commission and to improve the cooperation profile of European culture sectors. Presenters of the forum, former and future authors of programmes of capitals of European culture, leaders of Lithuanian and European culture sectors will talk and invite to discuss the impact of the culture to the development of the city in social welfare, to analyse relevant cultural challenges to Lithuania. The experts of international audience development and culture of communities will share their experiences at the unique programme workshops.
05 18 – 05 20
Hanseatic Days Multiple locations
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One of the most significant cultural events in Kaunas is the city-wide birthday of Kaunas. The medieval theme and intense program of the annual celebration distinguish it from the rest of Lithuania. Yes, that’s true – Kaunas is the only Hanseatic city in the country. Saturday, 05 19
Museum night 2018 Multiple locations
The worldwide event is much-celebrated here in Kaunas; most of the city’s numerous museums host special events planned long in advance and, of course, grant free entry till wee hours.
Monday, 05 21, 19:00
Stand-up performance by Domas Raibys Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56
One of the best-known athletes of poetry slam in Lithuania will present his musical preferences and insights. Something old, something new. Maybe something blue, too?
More events pilnas.kaunas.lt
May Thursday, 05 24, 19:00
Courtyard Celebration Laisvės alėja
V. Putvinskio street is throwing its second block party. Flea market, workshops, guided tours, open doors, neighbours, kids, dogs and lots of other things going on – initiated by the Kaunas Artists’ House.
Sunday, 05 27, 08:00 – 15:00
The Neighbours’ Day is celebrated all around the world; a big party was first thrown in the longest pedestrian street in Lithuania last year. In Kaunas, it’s called the Courtyard Celebration and is marking the launch of Courtyard Festival brought to you by Fluxus Labs of Kaunas 2022. Just bring your table, some food and chairs and sit along! If you don‘t have all of the above, you’ll most definitely be asked to join someone else’s table. It’s all about being together.
Saturday, 05 26, all day long
Putvinskis Street Day
Market “Retro mugė” [“Retro Market”] S. Dariaus ir S. Girėno g. 29A
Vintage cars, buses and trucks, retro costumes and dozens of collectors bragging about their hobbies and businesses. What’s not to like?! Wednesday, 05 30, 14:00
Guided tour “Balio Sruogos veikla Kaune” [“Balys Sruoga in Kaunas”] Balys and Vanda Sruogos memorial museum, B. Sruogos g. 21
Once an important diplomatic alley and today a cultural hotspot, the
Parth of a country-wide initiative, the guided tour invites those speaking Lithuanian to take a sneak peek into the lives of one of the most important writers in Lithuania and his wife.
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“When the sign said “Residents only”, the yard was full of junk. When we changed it to “Yard gallery”, it became a space for everyone.”. Artist Vytenis Jakas (Quote from an interview for “Kauno diena”)
KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE Monthly newspaper about personalities and events in Kaunas (free of charge)
Laisvės alėja 59, third floor
Editorial office:
Authors: Andrejus Bykovas, Artūras Bulota, Bernadeta Buzaitė, Daina Dubauskaitė, Dainius Ščiuka, Donatas Stankevičius, Eglė Šertvyčūtė, Gunars Bakšejevs, Julija Račiūnaitė, Justina Norkutė-Širin, Kipras Šumskas, Kotryna Lingienė, Kęstutis Lingys, Lukas Mykolaitis, Paulius Tautvydas Laurinaitis, Tautė Bernotaitė, Teodoras Biliūnas Patrons:
KAUNO MIESTO SAVIVALDYBĖ
RUN 100010COPIES TIRAŽAS 000 EGZ.
ISSN 2424-4481 2424-4465
Leidžia: Publisher
2018 2017No. Nr. 52 (33) (18)