Little Paris
Illustration by Teklė Ūla Pužauskaitė
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“Mažasis Paryžius” [“Little Paris”] café. Photo by Lukas Mykolaitis
It’s impossible to pin down just how often the French hello was being said in Kaunas, a city which people gently referred to as Little Paris. However, it’s a huge number. For instance, there were 349 Lithuanians studying in France in 1927: many of them stayed there, but some came back to create a new Kaunas following the subtle yet wild model of liberty, equality and fraternity.
Bonjour! Jonas Prapuolenis, a prominent artisan of art deco furniture, was a sworn francophone. He created over 120 unique sets of furniture and contributed to Kaunas being a UNESCO design city today. A known and respected graphic artist, sculptor, painter, stained glass artist Vytautas Kazimieras Jonynas was also one. By the way, a gallery named after him is open in Druskininkai – it’s a branch of the National M. K. Čiurlionis Museum of Art. Arbit Blatas used to rush to Konrado café to capture the life of local bohemians after his return from Paris. To be honest, we’d need a separate magazine edition to name all of the Lithuanian talents who studied or worked in France: Adomas Galdikas, Justinas Vienožinskis, Antanas Gudaitis, Vytautas Kasiulis, Antanas Mončys! And what about Algirdas Julius Greimas, to which the year 2017 was dedicated? We’ll mention Greimas again in the Merkurijus section, as this edition was inspired by The Month of La Francophonie. Talks with French people who lived in Kaunas, memories about the friendship between Lithuania and France, unique facts from the history of Lithuanian medicine and the events that wouldn’t have taken place if it wasn’t for the relationship of our two countries it’s
all here. Of course, there are tons of French-oriented events in Kaunas due to the francophone month: we’ve marked them with the francophone flag in our calendar. The flag’s five colours symbolise five countries of the world and the wide spread of the French spirit. Even though the 50-year occupation after World War II destroyed any bridges between Paris and Kaunas (those admiring France weren’t exactly rewarded during the Soviet years), the nickname of Little Paris was never lost. The centre of R. Schuman, which was renamed the French Cultural Centre, didn’t really start the relationship, it only continued the work of the French-Lithuanian fellowship of the Interwar period. The terms “francophone” and “francophonia” were coined in 1880 by geographer Onésime Reclus, but their modern meaning was attached to them almost a hundred years later. So let’s not focus only on France since March is perfect to think about many things: Canadian music, Moroccan poetry, Belgian take on geopolitics. Things that have no walls and even contradict the very essence of walls themselves. Let’s celebrate that.
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The first private bar to be opened in Kaunas after the Independence of Lithuania was reinstated was a joint called “Mažasis Paryžius” [“Little Paris”]. The bar’s owner Zina Fainšteinienė, who said the licence number they received was 1, told this story to us.
Over at Fainšteinas’ By Gunars Bakšejevs Photos by Lukas Mykolaitis
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Angelė Petrauskaitė / Monikos Požerskytės nuotr.
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For almost three decades, Little Paris survived the crowds of basketball players, bandits, officers and so on, and yet, just like in movies, it remains to be the most stable spot of Kaunas for the evening. Not for the night anymore.
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Zina loves to start work later, while her husband Benas FainĹĄteinas is an early bird. You can always see his tapestries in the Best Artwork of the Year exhibitions. He turns the lights on close to the door, grabs a needle and starts weaving another painting. The most impressive one is dedicated to his beloved wife, but other works also have a touch of wistful love.
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“You know, when you’re walking up the stairs to Montmartre, there’s a bar like this on the left, exactly like this. Only the chairs are older, but it all smells the same,” a frequent visitor of Little Paris tells us on the coldest evening of the year. Who knows, maybe he’s also imaginary, weaved or painted.
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“We’re continuing a very old story” By Kotryna Lingienė Photos from the respondent’s personal archive
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Anne-Marie Goussard would probably fail to count how many times she visited Kaunas, and this March will see her attending the events of the francophone month. “That’s a great symbol of the relationship between our countries”, she says and invites people who weren’t interested in the francophone culture before to these events too. She calls Kaunas the brother of Troyes, a city in the ChampagneArdenne region, north-eastern France, claiming that the stories of the two cities are very similar. So let’s chat about it eye to eye with Lithuania’s Honorary Consul in the Champagne-Ardenne region and the head of the coordination of French-Lithuanian associations.
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It’s not an overstatement to say that she was with our country during our darkest hours, even though she didn’t feel much support for her work back in France, especially from intellectuals leaning towards socialism. A 2010 article by Skaidra Kulakauskienė reads: “This January, a Parisian publisher L’Harmattan presented a new book in its series Mare Balticum. The book’s title “Des murs a abattre” could be directly translated as “walls to be brought down”. The publication also has a subtitle: A testimony of an engaged freedom fighter: Moscow, Vilnius, Kaliningrad, Jamba, Kiev.”
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This article notes that Anne-Marie had no links to Lithuania 30 years back – no friends, relatives or scientific interests: “The start for her anti-Communist position was prompted by her Marxist professors in France. She wouldn’t accept the situation of forcing an ideology on people in the context of the fights between the social classes. Her young enthusiasm rejected those ideas”. So the sustainable friendship isn’t a miracle as well. Maybe it’s a victory of the morals?
Vilnius, 1992. A lorry full of medicine has stopped at the French embassy.
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Anne-Marie Goussard (second from the left) with her friends in Lithuania.
Is it a coincidence that you became interested in Lithuania and not Latvia or Estonia, which had a similar political situation? I like to state that Lithuania and France are very close in terms of the culture: the same spirit of Asterix, a similar mix of freedom and resistance. “Lithuania” is another name for liberty. I’ve read that your first trip to Lithuania in 1991 was “accompanied” by four trucks full of medicine and other charity things. How did you manage to collect all that, and did you know any of the people you were bringing it to? The Resistance week in Troyes, in 1990, had a delegation of Lithuani-
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ans coming from Kaunas. They met a lot of people and told them about the political situation in Lithuania. When the tragic events of January 13th took place, many people addressed me, encouraging me to do something. After the news hit local papers, we started collecting clothes, medicine and other things to donate. There was a Lithuanian playing at one of the handball clubs, and the club’s president had a transport company – he also offered his help. We travelled through Germany, Poland, Belarus, explaining everyone that this humanitarian help is for Minsk. Finally, we turned left to Lithuania and had a hard discussion with the Soviet soldiers at the border.
Lithuanians were truly surprised to see us. We called the people we knew in Vilnius – they were waiting for us at the airport and couldn’t believe we arrived with lorries and cars. What made you come back to Lithuania again? Did you make any friends during your first trip? We coordinated the activities of around 50 NGOs in France, all of which wanted to help Lithuania. This was humanitarian aid at first, but soon we started other work as well – helping the country get into the EU and NATO, assisting in order to develop its economic and political climate, support Lithuanian scientists, universities and so forth. We didn’t imagine everything would improve so fast. To be honest, we feel at home in Lithuania, and yes, we have real friends here for more than 25 years. When the relationship started, was promoting French values and culture one of the aims? We had a clear mission – to help Lithuanians fight for their freedom and independence. I supported countries that fought communism in the Baltic countries, Eastern Europe, and I support people in Vietnam or Angola the same way. You’ve mentioned Baltic countries and Eastern Europe separately, even though most Europeans see it as the same exact thing. For tourists, the Soviet heritage looks exotic, but Lithuanians feel somewhat uncomfortable about it. Should we be more relaxed about it? Well, it’s important to show people what’s left after the occupation – objects like the Genocide Museum and Grūtas Park. However, you should also focus on keeping the Lithuanian culture alive – architecture, history, gastronomy.
You’re Lithuania’s Honorary Consul in the Champagne-Ardenne region, and you’re leading the coordination of French-Lithuanian associations. What does this work entail? As a consul, I develop the relationship between our two countries by collaborating with the embassy, and I help Lithuanians deal with their issues in France. The association sends press releases about the Baltic countries to thousands of people in France every week. We’re working not only with Lithuanians but also with Georgians, Romanians, Ukrainians and Polish communities. Do you meet many Lithuanians in France? There are basically two groups of those – families who moved here during the Interwar years and people who came after the independence was regained. A lot of students stay for a year or two, others start families. It’s a real pleasure to meet their children at the small school of the Lithuanian community. In your opinion, what are the most important achievements of the association during the last 25 years? I’d say the French Cultural Centre and the head of it Birutė Strakšienė certainly deserve a honorary mention. Overall, we’re glad to be writing a mutual and vibrant history for a quarter of a century already. The fact that French soldiers were deployed to Lithuania makes us proud. Fighting for a free Lithuania means fighting for a free Europe, so we’re continuing a very old story.
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Alvydas Laiškonis has been practicing medicine for more than 40 years and has written 13 specialised publications. This professor, habilitated doctor, infectologist, honorary doctorate at the University of Health and Law in Lille, France, is one of the pioneers of diagnosing and treating HIV in Lithuania. A keen fan of classical theatre and opera, also a sworn francophone. Since 1989, Alvydas has been a member of the council at the Lithuanian and French association as well as French Cultural Centre of Kaunas University of Technology, and now he’s part of the organising team behind the month of francophone events. In this interview, A. Laiškonis speaks about the influence that the French language had on him and on the history of Lithuanian medicine too.
Schuman, Dobilas, Hugo and a doctor By Julija Račiūnaitė Photos by Donatas Stankevičius
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What was the beginning of your francophone story? It all started at a high school in Panevėžys, where French was being taught. I wasn’t so keen on learning a foreign language then, but something interesting happened – there was an Interwar poet in Lithuania called Julijonas Lindė-Dobilas. He worked at a gymnasium for boys in Panevėžys, and left his own library for that school later. In 1949, the government decided to burn the library. I loved to visit it and read, so the head of the library invited me and a few other kids to take some of the books before it all burned down. I took “Mother of Kings” by J. I. Kraszewski and “The Hunchback
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of Notre-Dame” by V. Hugo. The latter simply enchanted me – chimeras, Quasimodo, everything seemed magical. When I was choosing a foreign language, I picked French just to be able to read this book in its original form. We had some great Interwar specialists teaching us, however most of my classmates didn’t really try as they thought they’d never use it later. So the poet’s library was burned, but that was how I was introduced to the language. Many years later, in 1989, I was already working in Kaunas, and someone told me about the French and Lithuanian association being founded. This is my member’s card, No. 27
[shows]. Several known personalities were part of the association, like the late Danutė Gvildienė, Birutė Strakšienė, many former French teachers and so on. These were Soviet days, let’s not forget, so our events and discussions took place in the library’s basement [K. Donelaičio g. 8], while the M. Žilinskas Art Gallery held French movie screenings. Our main goal was to continue the work started by the French-Lithuanian fellowship during the Interwar period. After the independence was regained, the French embassy was one of the first ones to settle in Lithuania. Philippe de Suremain, the ambassador, announced an internship for five doctors in France. I applied. It was somewhat awkward to compete with my students who had just finished their studies (by the way, most of them came from Alytus). I hadn’t talked, written or read in French for 35 years, but I somehow managed to get to the top five, along with a few doctors from Vilnius, Kaunas and Alytus. I was the oldest one! Later, the cultural attaché in France said that they chose me for “civil courage”. So we went to France for three months in 1993, and I experienced quite a severe psychological trauma there. What happened? Well, it was very hard for me to talk – I didn’t understand a word anyone said for about a month. All of my Lithuanian colleagues stayed in Lille, while the department for infectious diseases was outside of the city. I was alone. The French team understood my situation and supported me as much as they could. I told everyone about Lithuania, since locals didn’t know anything about it. I was living in a dorm. The women working there were constantly
When the Soviet army occupied Lithuania, most intelligent men were exiled, so their educated wives moved to the provinces due to safety reasons, and thus became French teachers. For instance, Pasvalys is a francophone city.
asking me whether I know how to eat with a knife and fork, whether I sleep with my shoes on and so forth – they thought I was a Russian from Siberia. So I basically educated them about Lithuania for three months. Anyway, I came back with stress-induced stomach ulcers. Soon after my return, I was giving a speech in Vilnius, I lost a lot of blood and had to be transported to the emergency room. All that because of insane stress.
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I did become friends with some French medics, and I invited them to a conference in Kaunas to talk about HIV infections. The French nurses, doctors, professors gave lectures to Lithuanian professionals. It was a taboo subject in Lithuania at the time. We had to host the guests in our friends’ homes since the economic blockade was still on. I used to bring them breakfast myself in the morning. But the conference was a huge success – the interest was massive. The French were impressed with our enthusiasm and professor Yves Mouton initiated an internship programme for Baltic doctors to go to France. He made me in charge of these internships, so I started looking for French-speaking medics – I found one in Latvia and none in Estonia. Therefore, almost all of the money (around a million francs) was spent on Lithuania. 35 students, nurses and midwives went to France. Since the scholarship was relatively big, some of them even brought a car back. Interestingly, the best French speakers were not from Kaunas or Vilnius, they were from Krekenava, Kretinga, Palanga, Pasvalys, Alytus and Surviliškis. These places had French being taught as the main foreign language in school. This was a result of historic circumstances – when the Soviet army occupied Lithuania, most intelligent men were exiled, so their educated wives moved to the provinces due to safety reasons, and thus became French teachers. For instance, Pasvalys is a francophone city. The mentioned 35 young people were so very lucky to go abroad and acquire priceless knowledge, understanding the importance of
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speaking foreign languages. Upon their return, they could already tell others how to fight HIV infections. In the Soviet Union, this was a forbidden subject – everything was “pretty”, so something like HIV just couldn’t exist. My first encounter with this infection was in Moscow, where I met a few people from Africa. They were there to see a famous optician Fiodorov, and one of them was diagnosed with HIV. I remember everyone being scared to shake that person’s hand, and a survey in Lithuania even showed that 98 % of doctors would simply refuse to treat such a patient. I’m truly happy today – our minister of health signed a law that makes it a norm to treat HIV-infected people right from the first day, without waiting until their body weakens. When treatment starts on time, the patients can live on for decades, just like those with diabetes. In this case, knowing French helped us gain lifesaving experience. Another thing that I always wanted to know more about is the diagnostics and treatment of tropical diseases, since Lithuania had essentially no knowledge base of it. Whereas around six million French medics go to Africa each year; they visit former colonies and explore the whole spectrum of such diseases. How long were you collaborating with French doctors? From my first internship right up until 2009, I was visiting that same department in Lille instead of going on holiday. I also managed to form bonds with a French association Pharmaciens Sans Frontières [Pharmacists without Borders]. Because of the work of that association, various medical institutions of Kaunas received a total of 80 million litas in charity: many hospitals got the
needed drugs when there was a major shortage of them in 1995 and 1996. I later engaged in cultural activities too – traveling around French hospitals, schools, giving lectures, organising contests about Lithuania for the pupils. Together with the team of R. Schuman centre, we went to the city where Schuman himself was buried; we introduced the locals to Lithuanian cuisine. What did you bring? Šaltibarščiai [Cold borscht]. The French called it “communist soup” at first. They weren’t eager to try it, but later grew fond of it and asked for more potage rouge [red soup]. However, the flaming sausages was a real miracle to them! I used to soak the sausages in spirit the evening before, and then light them on fire in front of the people. The French couldn’t believe that sausages in Lithuania were flammable. Burning like bonfires! Curd donuts were the dessert. Since the R. Schuman centre [previously a foundation, now French Cultural Centre] was established in Kaunas, the city went on to become the francophone hotspot of Lithuania. We were the first ones to make croissants here! A French person’s life would stop without croissants. The ambassador at the time used to joke that we need to move the embassy to Elektrėnai, so people from Vilnius and Kaunas would be able to visit it often. The cultural centre celebrates its 25th birthday this year, and the Kaunas municipality is helping us a great deal now. The last five years saw us spending our own money – all we had was enthusiasm. I’m also glad that we’ve rekindled the relationship between Kaunas and Grenoble.
Could you tell us more about the friendship of these cities? This story should begin with cherchez la femme [look for the woman]. Marie Destot, the wife of the former mayor of Grenoble, came to Kaunas in order to look for her roots – her ancestors were from the Ukmergė region and moved to France just before World War I. Our cultural centre was looking for new contacts: we tried Lille, but it was too large of a city. And then, thanks to Birutė Strakšienė and Marie Destot, Grenoble appeared on the map – a delegation of French people came to Kaunas, appropriate documents were signed and the collaboration started between medics, jurists, police officers, music teachers, youth detention centres, sportspeople (especially handball players). Back to the francophone month – which events would you personally recommend? I’m excited about the play “Aš – Mojleras” [“I am Molière”] by Inesa Paliulytė, dedicated to the 25th anniversary of the centre. We’re happy that these events have their audience – we see those same people coming back every year and filling the seats. Which part of France do you miss the most while living in Kaunas? To be honest, it’s the department of infectious diseases at the university in Lille – the hospital I’ve worked at for many years. I always want to come back there, I think I’ve even become a regular member of the team. When that department was declared to be the best one in France, the colleagues invited me to take a photo with all of them. A part of me is there, and part of them is here, in Kaunas. By the way, we saw a wooden Lithuanian religious statuette next to that hospital.
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“Let’s talk in Lithuanian, and if I won’t manage to reply, I’ll do it in English, French, German or by gestures,” Marc Muylaert tells us right away after sitting down at the Galeria Urbana café. We laughed and joked around, and remembered the AmericanLithuanian Vijolė Arbas (whom we interviewed last year) at the end of our talk. She was also among the first ones to return to Kaunas after Lithuania regained its independence, and she saw just how cold and troublesome the city was at the time. Vijolė didn’t leave Kaunas for longer periods of time, whereas Marc is still an avid traveller that keeps a very Kaunasian attitude and sense of humour.
The third Frenchman in Lithuania By Kotryna Lingienė and Kęstutis Lingys Photos by Donatas Stankevičius, taken at the Galeria Urbana café (Vilniaus g. 22)
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So tell us how you ended up in Kaunas. I’d say I’m a love emigrant. I love Lithuania and a Lithuanian woman, so I live here. Actually, that’s not always true – I have a home in France, some stuff there to do as well. I was just there two days back.
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I came to Kaunas for the first time in 1992, after getting to know Kaunasian students in Norway on a trip, when I was working for a university in France. Back home, I talked to my boss about the benefits of starting a relationship with Lithuania. A new country on the map! For sure, we didn’t know much about it. We knew the basics prior to the war, but later… Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania – which ones are higher, which one’s below? Anyway, my boss sent me to Kaunas. I needed a visa. My visa’s number was three, so I was the third French person to visit Lithuania after you regained the independence. I had to get angry at the embassy in Paris after learning how much the visa was. I shouted at the secretary that I was going to give free lectures in Lithuania and my university sent me. She ran to the ambassador and came back with good news. Ha! Vytautas Magnus University was experiencing a tough period – the blockade was still on. For example, there was only one fax machine for the whole institution! Lecturers and professors didn’t have any money, so they had other jobs. There was a lack of initiative too. I gave a few lectures on French literature. I returned to France and didn’t keep in touch with the VMU people. No one had the time for it, it was too complex for them to come
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to us, therefore the interactions stopped. I think one of the first Kaunasians to visit France was a basketball team – they took an ancient bus… A nightmare! But people wanted to do it, and when there was a chance, they took it. So this was my first time in Kaunas. My boss asked me what happened, I answered, “nothing really happened, but… it was very interesting”. When I was a kid, France was like that as well after the war: ruined buildings, old cars on the streets. Basically, an interesting economic zero. Although our countries didn’t really communicate for 50 years, I instantly knew that Lithuanians are just like us. I told everyone back home that these were our cousins – they think alike and have similar values. I could sense that we’d get along one day. We have loads of foreigners in France, and some of them don’t really want to be close to us due to cultural differences, but here, in Lithuania, we feel as Europeans. Later, during my holidays, I visited Lithuania quite often. I saw the country progressing. The beginning was fairly slow up to around 1995, and that’s understandable. This wasn’t the case like the one of East Germany, who had a rich neighbour – West Germany – when the wall was brought down. Lithuanians were self-dependent and had to do everything themselves. Youngsters might not understand it, but those days were a very different era. I liked it. My daughter was born, she’s 22 now. When I retired back in France, I started spending more and more time in Kaunas with my family.
What was the Lithuania that the French knew before the war? What have you heard about the old Kaunas? They say Kaunas is the Little Paris. I’d agree! I’ve read the memoirs [Lithuania in the 1920s: A Diplomat‘s Diary] of Robert Wayne Heingartner, the consul of the USA who worked in Kaunas from 1926 to 1928. He writes about the social life in the temporary capital, and it sounded just like the situation in France. When he came to Kaunas, many things we see now weren’t here, including famous buildings – that’s a separate topic. However, Kaunas was on par with Paris and Vienna in terms of fashion and culture. A small, charming city. What did you want to say about the famous buildings? Well, I was truly surprised when I first got here. The whole world wants to see Dessau. Why? Because of several Bauhaus buildings. Yet no one knows about Kaunas! There are at
least three streets here full of houses like that. 25 years back, I was already saying we need to convince people to go here – everyone should come to Kaunas to see the architecture! We also need to protect these buildings. Now, some good work is being done about it, even though we had to wait quite a while. The ideas aren’t enough, they have to turn political. There was no money in 1992, and the situation isn’t much different now, but it has changed a bit. People just had to find a system to help owners take care of such houses. The municipality programme that deals with the renovation of façades, in my opinion, is brilliant. We have a similar one in France – people get tax cuts if they invest in the façade. A few years will go by and Kaunas will be a real heaven. You know that recently renovated building at the foot of Parodos hill? A beauty! The whole city could look like that, so that no one would want to live in Vilnius anymore!
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Vilnius is beautiful too, however the things that are in Vilnius can be found in other places. I’ve lived in Bavaria, I also know Austria. Baroque is much more impressive there compared to Vilnius. Classicism? Look at France. What else? The Church of St. Anne. Gothic. A truly great structure with exceptional red bricks, which are very rare, but as for the style… We have the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, and it’s ten times larger. The Old Town of Kaunas is not unique too, but the New Town – that’s a whole different deal. You won’t find one like that anywhere! We were talking about cultural life before the war. What about
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now – do you, as a Kaunasian, feel satisfied with the culture here? Yes, definitely. The events taking place in Kaunas are of high quality and there are certainly enough of them. The theatre, many concerts, maybe just a particular lack of operas. But you can go places on any given evening. I often visit the philharmonic, jazz gigs as well. I also like theatre. What are your hopes for 2022, when Kaunas becomes the European Capital of Culture? I believe this is a huge opportunity for the city. Kaunas is in a rush already. And you need to! Time doesn’t
wait, these several years will fly by. For decades, Kaunas was asleep – it was similar to Vilnius after the independence was reinstated, but Vilnius worked tremendously hard to grow. So Kaunas needs to speed up! You’ve mentioned Germany a few times. What’s your relationship with this country? I’ve spent 12 years in Germany, both East and West, giving lectures at a university and working at the French culture institute. I speak fluent German. Is it easier to learn than Lithuanian? Well, I started learning German way earlier! Ha ha… I’m not a fluent speaker of Lithuanian, though it’s enough for me to live here. I often joke that with my language baggage, I could go to Samogitia and back to Kaunas with no troubles. I’ve studied Lithuanian for a bit back in France, and soon I understood that you have to sacrifice at least ten years at a university to become a specialist of this language. But all I wanted was to learn how to speak. Later, I learned some more in Kaunas, but never seemed to be able to talk fluently. I’m no longer 20, you know. Actually, it can get difficult here without knowing the language. When many people surround you and they talk fast, it’s hard to catch up. But you know what surprised me the most during my first stay in Kaunas? I’ve met people here who’ve never been to France yet they knew the language perfectly! A clean, classical pronunciation – better than most French people have. One of these magic speakers was Birutė Strakšienė, the head of the French Cultural Centre at Kaunas University of Technology.
Does something stand out in Kaunas for being extra French? You can go to the plank that says Napoleon was here – he walked through the fields to the Jiesios mound and watched his army go across the river Nemunas. Nevertheless, I don’t think French people come to Kaunas to eat beefsteaks with fries. The things that unite us are our thoughts and culture. And it doesn’t really matter that Napoleon visited Kaunas – he could’ve crossed the Nemunas in Vilkija. The traces of the French culture are not relevant today, so people come here to see how Lithuanians live. And there aren’t many differences in lifestyles, in fact. Well, maybe that’s not true in terms of food. Sometimes it’s great to come back to France, ha ha! What about your passion for motorcycles? I’m riding a motorbike for 50 years now. And I’m still alive! You have to be alert while riding in Lithuania – things are a little bit different here, so to say. I love travelling by bike. It’s fantastic to ride it in Lithuanian forests – following the roads, of course. You’re closer to nature when you’re on a bike. The smell, the fresh air… you can’t compare it to a car. My significant other Ina and I have participated in a Lithuanian rally close to the border; it was fun! We visited manors, the Rambynas hill, Luizės bridge to Tilžė [now Kaliningrad]. Also, there are some magnificent, unique seaside landscapes in Neringa! What’s your favourite Kaunas route? I love riding on the coast of the Nemunas to Vilkija,crossing the bridge there and coming back via Kulautuva, a beautiful resort.
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Many green-white boys were sad to see Leo Westermann leave Kaunas last summer. BC Žalgiris didn’t stay without a French touch for long though. Just before the start of the season, Axel Toupane, a 25-year-old with a couple years of NBA experience, joined the team. Versatility is what makes him stand out, as well as pristine personal style.
Always happy to discover new countries and cultures By Kotryna Lingienė and Kęstutis Lingys Photos by Dainius Ščiuka
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Can you tell us more about your childhood? We know that your father is a basketball coach; does it mean you started playing the game before you could walk? My father was a basketball player before he became a coach, but I had the freedom to choose which sports to practice. I always had a basketball in my hands since I was, like, four years old. My father never put pressure on me, I was really focused in school. He left me alone until 17, when basketball started getting really serious. Once he figured out that was what I wanted to do, he started giving me more advice and help. Do you use his advice now too? We always talk about basketball – not only about my game but about his team or the games that we’ve watched. He watches my games as much as he can. He‘s really paying attention. Which city in France are you from? I‘m from the area of Strasbourg. I was born in Mulhouse but I lived in Strasbourg my last five years in France. Besides that, we were always moving because of my dad‘s work. Is basketball important there? Nah, in France it’s more about soccer. Basketball is getting better, thanks to the national team – they won the European championship and had good results in the World Cup, even the Olympics. Still, soccer is dominating. What‘s your favourite soccer team? Paris Saint-Germain, since, like, year 2000.
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Could you compare soccer fans and basketball fans? I think, in France, they’re way different. Obviously, there are much more soccer fans. They have these little groups, they‘re way louder, way crazier and just more intense in terms of everything. I feel that in basketball countries like Serbia, Greece, sometimes even in Lithuania. But not in France. Basketball fans in France are calm and just come to watch a good show.
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What else is your region interesting for? If you could invite people to come to Strasbourg, what would you recommend doing there? They should come for the Christmas market. There‘s a huge one in Strasbourg itself and a lot of smaller nice ones in surrounding smaller towns. Besides that, well, I‘m not an expert but I know the area has some good wine as well. Of course, check out the basketball team! You‘ve had some NBA experience. What did those couple of years on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean teach you, both as a sportsman and as a person? It‘s the highest level, that‘s the league where they have the best players; everything is faster, everybody’s stronger and they jump higher. It definitely pushes you to improve your standards and yourself as a basketball player, your body and mind too. You really need to step up if you want to make it. They also teach you, for example, how to take care of your money, because there‘s a lot of people coming at you. It‘s important to learn how to say “no”. These are the main things.
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Isn‘t it hard to move from place to place so often? Are you planning to settle down permanently soon? Not really. I‘m always excited for the future and the next destination I‘m going. When I was young, my dad didn‘t want me to leave too early, I stayed with my parents until I was 16-17. It was hard at the moment, but now I get it, maybe I would have been tired of basketball at a young age. If I can settle in a nice team in a nice city, it would be great, but I‘m always happy to discover new countries and cultures. What was your first impression of Kaunas? Very good! In summer, we came here with the French national team. We had a friendly game, people were cool and welcoming. Then, when I first got there during the season, I spent a lot of time in the gym, working out and practicing. But I really like the city. You have a bunch of small, nice restaurants, I really love that. Especially Sushi Masters – it‘s the best one by far. It‘s really calm, not too much noise when you wake up in the morning – I live on K. Donelaičio street. If I do have some free time, I go to the movies or a spa. Do you hope to become a coach in the future? No, of course not. I‘m more interested in the business side than becoming a coach. My dad is well aware of that, it doesn‘t matter for him, really, it‘s not a big deal. We‘ve read that your father comes from Senegal. Have you been there? Yes, we were going there a lot when I was younger. Then basketball started, so I haven‘t been there for almost ten years now. It‘s a beautiful country, people are really nice.
What about Šarūnas Jasikevičius – what do you think about him as a coach? I had seen him before, I watched some games in the past. He’s just the same when he was playing –passionate, with much will to win. He can’t
You‘ve just won your first trophy with Žalgiris – the Karalius Mindaugas Cup. Congratulations! Is the fact that the team won more important for you than your personal results? The team matters more, for sure. We have the trophy all together. When you come to Žalgiris, the main thing is to beat Rytas. We had no other choice than to win the cup, and everybody is really proud about it. What do you think about the Ball brothers coming to Lithuania? I believe it‘s all good. They’re talented. Even if their dad is talking a lot and some people don‘t like that, at the end of the day, you talk about basketball. You talk about basketball in Lithuania. A lot of people are following them. If that can help LKL to get a little bit more visibility, it will be a great thing.
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What about the atmosphere in your team – do you spend more time with other foreign players, or is everyone together all the time? Sometimes it‘s easier like that – I have spent some time in America, Aaron White and Kevin Pangos are also from there. But in general everybody is close and cool with each other. Lithuanian players help us all the time with things we don‘t know.
hide it. You have to know it‘s not personal – he‘s just doing that to make us better, encourage us and help us improve. You just have to take the message.
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There‘s the famous pink lake where you can float. Nice beaches too. Dakar, the main city, is fantastic. There‘s great energy over there. A part of my family lives there – my grandma, my uncle and my aunt. The food is also great! My favourite dish is yassa – it‘s chicken with onion and special sauce.
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Running from a crisis, or designing Interwar happiness By Paulius Tautvydas Laurinaitis
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1 , Today, this term is used in much narrower contexts. Back then, it was a term to refer to various spots for people to gather, in this case – houses or blocks.
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Illustration by Gie Vilkė
In today’s Kaunas, finding a decent place to stay for a relatively good price is not a big problem. However, 100 years back, the new Kaunasians faced a completely different challenge. The flat crisis – this was how people referred to the “disease” that Kaunas had in those days. With its ups and downs, everchanging stats and the lack of good flats, the city’s real estate field was under a lot of pressure from as early as 1919 until it had to return the title of a capital to its rightful owner. “Flat colonies“ 1 became the solution to this crisis.
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Aukštieji Šančiai workers colony after WW2. Photo by Stanislovas Lukošius. Property of KTU ASI.
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The first stage of the crisis was an especially harsh one: even government officials had to live in tiny flats with their families, and often those places weren’t in good shape. When the early economic troubles were already in the past, residential houses started growing fast, but it still wasn’t quick enough for the needs of new city residents. Much like in Europe, most apartment buildings were private before social housing came along, and rental prices depended on the conditions of the free market. So even when the situation was changing, the supply still wasn’t adequate for the working people’s quality of life to improve. This wasn’t a unique case: at the end of the 19th century and in the beginning of the 20th, almost all cities that grew after the industrial revolution had to deal with this problem. Kaunas had to overcome it too, although the reasons behind its growth were very different. “Brasil” and “Argentina” – the famous blocks of slums on the slopes were built, and they were even more known for their terrible living conditions, the lack of hygiene and high crime rates. The city’s government didn’t have much money, therefore colonies of cheap flats were being established inside old, unsuitable structures for the poorest residents of Kaunas. Two of such colonies were built in-
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side forts, and living there was truly horrific – the local press at the time wrote that these flats looked more like caves. The question of worker accommodation was one of the most popular ones in the political discourse of Europe. Both left- and right-leaning parties used this problem of the most rapidly growing part of the city’s population to their advantage, boosting their political stock and ideological visions. There were basically two clear directions in order to solve this issue: a model of municipal apartment buildings which was cheaper and more effective; a smaller neighbourhood model that’s more about individuality and traditions, funded by the city government, the country’s budget or private companies. The latter houses were rented out in low prices or given to residents for instalments with minimum interest. When residential areas grew, the municipality began liquidating the old flat colonies around the 1900s: the purpose of these colonies was to be useful under the most critical moments of the crisis, therefore they turned out to be unnecessary since matters got better. Still, there were many workers who didn’t have a place to live in Kaunas – even though the sanitary conditions were
Other things interfered with Kaunas having more apartment buildings too, so it was decided during a council session in 1934 to start building small houses for the workers. Events in Austria played a role here – one of the municipal apartment buildings in Vienna became the heart of a civil war, so cities feared putting large groups of workers in one place. Due to finances and the imperfection of laws, the opportunities to implement such ideas came about only in 1938-1939. This was a time when companies were also building houses for their workers: the first modern structures for the employees of Maisto company were built, Inkaras was planning a similar project, while the Aleksotas neighbourhood was supposed to have a 90-house block funded by the Vailokaičiai family for workers of various companies and institutions. Apart from other plans, a project for cheap accommodation was being prepared with a strategy to provide quality apartments for working people in cities and agrarian areas too. Kaunas, together with the whole country, was on the verge of solving one of the most delicate problems, but the war put a stop to it all.
The municipality was planning to build 300 flats for workers during the year 1940 alone: since the problem was a truly relevant one, most of these structures were supposed to be built following the “easy to disassemble, Norwegian” model of six-flat houses. Some biased critique was thrown towards this project in the press – one reader noted that houses grouped together with thin walls, hosting large numbers of workers are “potential spots for binge drinking and indulging in lust”, whereas a somewhat different model would “ensure a safe, independent, isolated life for a worker’s family”. The process of giving out flats payed attention to the reputation of a particular resident and the length of the period that he or she held the job. Interestingly, apartment buildings didn’t seem like such a bad idea anymore: Varnių street got several modern three-storey buildings with 76 flats inside them. We know so little about these first municipal structures, because soon they found themselves in the ghetto and were burned at the end of the war. The smaller six-flat houses were planned to be built in Žaliakalnis, Vilijampolė, Aukštieji Šančiai: after the occupation, these projects were used for the state’s propaganda – “the government cares about working people”; this was also the base to expand the city after the war. Nowadays, these fruits of Interwar labour are still here – the houses that were supposed to be temporary became home to whole generations of Kaunasians. Surrounded by a modern city environment, they don’t look too great (with their reputation being very poor in some cases), however 80 years back they marked an important breakthrough for Kaunas, becoming a dream home for many residents at the time.
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improved, rental prices were way too high and there wasn’t enough living space. Both state and private constructions were harmed by the lack of long-term loan strategy; the municipality had to decide whether to go along with apartment buildings or smaller, less dense blocks. Anyway, the municipality didn’t own enough vacant land to make a difference. One apartment building for workers was built in 1934, at the Vileišio square, however instead of hosting newcomers, it was used by the municipality institutions that didn’t have a place to settle as well.
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Photo taken at the Birštono st. underground crossing. A new installation - Transition by Karolis Nekrošius was recently installed there.
A person deserves a medal for walking out of the Vilnius Book Fair empty handed. We’re not that strong. Before the long weekend, we examined the programme of the fair and chose the kaunastic highlights of it to fill the Merkurijus shelves. Obviously, we’ve deviated from the planned route. This time, the souvenirs are all about Kaunas architecture, people from this city and the events that took place here.
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“Dainius Liškevičius. Labyrinthus”, compiler Agnė Narušytė Lapas, February 27, 2018 18 €
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The publication will surely become a collector’s item. This work is about a work that’s a labyrinth of meanings and hints. People could visit the 16 rooms at the Contemporary Art Centre in Vilnius back in 2014, and then the author himself – Kaunas-born artist Dainius Liškevičius – probably couldn’t have imagined putting the interpretations of his installation on paper. Everyone’s here, from Paulina Pukytė to Rein Raud.
Vinyl record “Stasiui Povilaičiui 70” [“Stasys Povilaitis is 70”] Vinilo Studija, 2018 €25
To most, the first place they think about while listening to Stasys Povilaitis (1947-2015) is Palanga, but we remember that the legendary singer was born in Kaunas. It was a huge surprise to find a brand new vinyl record of the maestro’s best hits (must’ve been an exhausting selection process), along with the records by Teisutis Makačinas and Saulės Laikrodis, sold by the team of Vinilo Studija. This vinyl is for both those who are old admirers and those just discovering chic records.
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“Algirdas Julius Greimas. Asmuo ir idėjos” [“A. J. Greimas. Person and ideas”], 1st tome, compiler Arūnas Sverdiolas Baltos Lankos, 2017 From €20.78
The publication will help to know the famous semiotician, mythologist, linguist, literature and culture critic Algirdas Julius Greimas (1917-1992). The profound tome includes autobiographical writings, letters, interviews, talks, many photos, memories by others and biographical texts. Lithuanian audiences have not yet seen most of this content.
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“Optimizmo architektūra: Kauno fenomenas 19181940” [“Architecture of Optimism: The Kaunas Phenomenon”], compiler Marija Drėmaitė „Lapas“, 2018 12 €
Marija Drėmaitė should also be known to you if you’re a reader of this magazine – we’ve taken her to the Iljinienė house in November 2017, and the round window there inspired the graphic aesthetics of the “Architecture of Optimism” exhibition as well as this publication. However, it’s not just a catalogue – there has never been so many precise, well-written articles about the downs of Lithuania becoming the ups of Kaunas in one place. We’ve heard that the circulation is tiny, and this “optimistic” book became a bestseller at the fair in Vilnius. 6
“Dr. KVADRATAS. Greimas ir jo semiotika” [“Dr. SQUARE. Greimas and his semiotics”], a book by Miglė Anušauskaitė Aukso Žuvys, 2017 From €11.99
To balance things out in terms of the publication just discussed, one of the most creative and imaginative books of the year is also about Dr. Greimas! The only flaw of this comic book is that you’re done reading all of it in a single evening. Let’s hope Miglė Anušauskaitė will turn to other serious subjects, since she’s great at explaining the most complex things in a playful, captivating, rewarding manner.
“99 metai po įvykio” [“99 years after it”] by Liudas Mažylis „Alma Littera“, 2018 Nuo 16,99 €
Professor Liudas Mažylis mentioned the fact that he’s about to introduce his first fiction book during an interview for the last edition of our magazine. The book fair surrounded him with vast numbers of fans, and his new action documentary book should inspire you to start your own adventure.
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Calendar 02 26 – 03 22
Kaunas 2022 goes to Kaunas District As you know, Kaunas, as well as the Kaunas District, will become the European Capital of Culture in 2022. The project’s team continues the series of meetings in the whole district, inviting anyone to discuss new public spaces, share the responsibility, organise celebrations in our squares, parks, yards, saunas or garages. More info and the route of the trip are on Kaunas 2022 Facebook page.
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Various locations
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Exhibition “Future Perfect” of German contemporary art Kaunas Painting Gallery, K. Donelaičio g. 16 M. Žilinskas Art Gallery, Nepriklausomybės a. 12
future perfect tense points to an action being completed at some time in the future. So, the exhibition raises this question: if the future can be perceived as the end of the past, can we break out of the typical paradigms of contemplating and predicting it? 02 28 – 03 17
Rolandas Karalius’ exhibition “Telefonas yra išjungtas” [“Phone’s off”] Meno Parkas gallery, Rotušės a. 27
Communication and the total lack of it at the same time. Misunderstanding each other, serving the modern technologies that were (and still are) created to serve us, actually putting us inside a prison of loneliness where months pass and you don’t know how to talk to people while you’re eating tons of sunflower seeds. Talk to “people”? This exhibition will allow the visitors to experience what it’s like to feel like “people”. 03 05 – 03 09
VMU Asian Week Various locations
The exhibition includes films, sculptures, objects, paintings, collages of the imaginary future by 16 artists working in Germany. The title of the Pet-friendly places 4 2
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The series of events should introduce the society to the countries of East Asia (Japan, China, Korea) by exploring the peculiarities of culture, language, martial arts, cuisine, cinematography. This week is organised by the centre for Asian studies at Vytautas Magnus University, also student clubs Hashi, Wu Wei, Hallyu and a few social partners.
The Month of La Francophonie
March Tuesday, 03 06, 10 am – 5 pm
International conference for political science and diplomacy “Tyla politinėje komunikacijoje” [“Silence in political communication”] VMU Mažoji hall, S. Daukanto g. 28
The plenary speech “Noise and silence in political communication” will be given by a known communication specialist, professor Dominique Wolton (France). Other speakers include philosopher, professor Gintautas Mažeikis, professor of communication Auksė Balčytienė, professor Kristina Juraitė, political scientist, professor Lauras Bielinis and others.
Tuesday, 03 06, 7 pm
Play “Aš – Moljeras” [“I am Molière”]
National Kaunas Drama Theatre, Laisvės al. 81
Inesa Paliulytė has rewritten Molière’s “The Imaginary Invalid” and she gave the main role to the comedic author himself. It’s a play full of clownery, French farce, elements of pastorals and even operettas. Dedicated to the 25th anniversary of the French Cultural Centre (former R. Schuman centre).
Wednesday, 03 07, 6 pm
Lecture “Grafų Šuazelių šeima ir Lietuva” [“Lithuania and the count family of Choiseul”] KTU, A. Mickevičiaus 37, 213 aud.
Specialist of Baltic history, colonel lieutenant Gilles Dutertre is known amongst Kaunasian francophones as he’s given several lectures here, has written a French guide to Kaunas and a book “Prancūzai Lietuvos istorijoje” [“The French in Lithuanian history”]. This time, he’ll tell us about the Choiseul-Gouffier family, who moved to Lithuania in the beginning of the 19th century and ran the Plateliai manor. The lecture will be held in French and translated into Lithuanian. 03 09 – 03 15
Events for March the 11th Historic Presidential Palace, Vilniaus g. 33
The week of events for March the 11th will be started by a play “Šimtmečio moterys” [“Women of the centennial”] on March 9, while March 11 will witness free guided tours of the Historic Presidential Palace (online registration required). Two publications will be presented – the book “Prienų kraštas: iš praeities į dabartį” [“Prienai region: past to present”] by S. Sajauskas and “Tautos žadinimo šaukliai” [“Those who woke the nation up”] by Dr. A. Matulevičius.
More events visit.kaunas.lt
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Calendar Friday, 03 09, 7 pm
Lizdas cinema: “Italo Disco Legacy“
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Cinema hall at the M. Žilinskas Art Gallery, Nepriklausomybės a. 12
The club of electronic music has been active for four years, operating below the art gallery. Lizdas invites people to the second cinema session, this time about the essence of the Italo disco genre. After the movie, an Italian DJ, frequent guest in Berlin dancefloors, producer Franz Scala will take care of the rest of the night at the club. Friday, 03 09, 9 pm
Concert by the band Žalvarinis Sandėlis club, Muziejaus g. 8
The most popular Lithuanian folk rock band was born 17 years ago. Now, the musicians will present their newest album “Einam tolyn” [“Going forward”] in the format of vinyl and CD to the Kaunas audience. Saturday, 03 10, 6 pm
Play “Pasimetimas” [“Lost”] Šelteris, Vytauto pr. 79
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A drama directed by Gildas Aleksa focuses on improvisation, the doubts that younger generations have and the inability to make up their minds. “What’s contemporary art really about? Does everyone have equal rights? Is art about you, or is it about others? Is depression an illness or a phase?”. Saturday, 03 10, 6 pm
Concert “Young Blood 5” Lemmy club, Girstupio g. 1
Vilnius-based bands Bigsuras (soft/ blues/alternative rock) and MAVV (alternative rock) will make sure this evening at Lemmy is memorable. Sunday, 03 11, 3 pm
Concert of choral music “Laisvės varpas” [“Bells of freedom”]
Kaunas cultural centre Tautos Namai, Vytauto pr. 79 The concert is dedicated to March the 11th, the day of reinstating Lithuanian independence, and the country’s centennial. Mixed choirs Gintaras, Diemedis, Ainiai and male choir Perkūnas will take part, with an accompanying instrumental trio.
March Sunday, 03 11, 5 pm
Concert for the country’s centennial Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5
This programme for independent Lithuania’s 100th anniversary is quite unconventional. Without any chants like “Lithuania!”, pompous remarks and with plenty of humour, the story of the lives of Lithuanian people from 1918 to nowadays told by Dainius Svoboda won’t leave anyone indifferent. Kaunas State Choir will perform Vidmantas Bartulis’ “Juk nieks tavęs taip nemylės” [“No one will love you so”], beautiful music by other Lithuanian composers, and poems by local poets as well as the stories of people will be told.
Monday, 03 12, 6 pm
Lecture “Nuo Prancūzijos iki Taičio: ko ieškojo ir ką atrado Polis Gogenas” [“France to Tahiti: things Paul Gauguin was looking for and things he found”] Kaunas University of Technology, A. Mickevičiaus g. 37, room 213
Dr. Aušrinė Cemnolonskė will give the lecture – she’s sharing her insights at various francophone events every year.
Tuesday, 03 13, 6 pm
Movie “L’Avenir” [“Future”]
Cinema theatre Romuva, Kęstučio g. 62
Sunday, 03 11, 6.30 pm
Movie “Drugelio miestas” [“Butterfly City”]
Cinema theatre Romuva, Kęstučio g. 62
Visaginas is a Lithuanian city shaped like a butterfly’s wings, which was once supposed to be the window for the West to Soviet progress. Becoming a member of the EU meant closing the atomic power plant – the main element of the city’s industry. When geopolitical tension and distrust is felt everywhere, what will the future bring to the people of Butterfly City? Director of the documentary – Olga Černovaitė.
French director and screenwriter Mia Hansen-Løve received a Silver Bear at the Berlinale for her film “L’Avenir”. The main role was written personally for Isabelle Huppert, playing a philosophy professor and book author Natali, who faces some extremely hard challenges of life.
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Calendar Wednesday, 03 14, 7.30 pm
03 15 - 03 29
VMU theatre, S. Daukanto g. 27
Forum Cinemas, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 49 Cinema theatre Romuva, Kęstučio g. 62
Festival “Kino pavasaris” [“Cinema spring”]
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“Closed evening. Persona grata: Jurgis Didžiulis”
In the chair of the respondent – performer, composer, producer, social activist Jurgis Didžiulis, interviewed by moderators Alfredas Chmieliauskas and Sergėjus Bocullo. VMU acting students will perform a musical piece during the event.
The Vilnius International Film Festival grew out of the limits of the capital a few years ago, and Kaunasians are equally flooded with opportunities to get lost in the silver screen. Prepare for a full on two-week marathon of festival bests, Lithuanian promises and cult classics.
Thursday, 03 15, 5 pm
Wednesday, 03 14, 6 pm
Chamber music concert “Mėnesiena” [“Moonlight”] M. and K. Petrauskas museum, K. Petrausko g. 31
Pianist Virginija Unguraitytė-Levickienė will perform together with singer Jomantė Šležaitė.
More events visit.kaunas.lt
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First literature afternoon of francophone countries at VMU V. Putvinskio g. 23, room 102
Mohomodou Houssouba, lecturer and researcher at the African studies department of Basel University in Switzerland, will give a lecture “Latest news about francophone poetry in Africa” (in French with translation to Lithuanian).
March Friday, 03 16, 7 pm
Concert “Jurga. Not Perfect”
Renginių oazė, Baltų pr. 16
“Closer to you,” Jurga describes both her tour named “Not Perfect” and the eponymous album. Cosy concert spaces make sure Jurga’s here to share candid, open emotions. Friday, 03 16, 11 pm
Dark Delights: Daniele Cosmo
Lizdas bar, Nepriklausomybės a. 12
Gytis Padegimas is one of the most productive Lithuanian directors who staged over a hundred plays here and abroad. Together with a theatre, cinema and TV actor Dovydas Stončius, the director will present a tragic story about forgiveness in the largest bookstores and libraries of Lithuania. Sunday, 03 18, 12 pm
Risograph workshop for children Kitokia grafika, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 68-14
Switzerland is a fairly rare guest country on the Lithuanian electronic music scene. Daniele Cosmo explores various electronic shadows – some acidic, some mystical, intensive, however always surprising and interesting. Saturday, 03 17, 6 pm
Premiere – play “Noktiurnas” [“Nocturne”]
Kaunas Central Bookstore, Laisvės al. 81
Kids aged 12-15 will be introduced to illustrations, principles of publishing and self-publishing, also risograph (RISO) printing. Every participant will create a personal two-colour art print. Don’t forget to register!
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Calendar Sunday, 03 18, 4 pm
Concert of French romanticism music
Kaunas Cathedral Basilica, Vilniaus g. 1 Performing – Marija Arutiunova (soloist) and Dalia Jatautaitė (church organ).
Second literature afternoon of francophone countries at VMU VMU, V. Putvinskio g. 23, room 102
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Monday, 03 19, 5 pm
Mohamed Saki, researcher at the University of Western Brittany (France) will give a lecture “Abdelatif Laâbi, or poetry as a source of light, a shelter from barbaric darkness” (in French with translation to Lithuania). Tuesday, 03 20, all day
International Day of Happiness Various locations
March 20th is the International Day of Happiness; it will be officially celebrated in Kaunas for the first time. The team of Kaunas 2022 are the ambassadors of the celebration, but we all need to nurture this festival to grow into an amazing one until 2022. And we’re sure the residents of Kaunas and Kaunas District know what real happiness is! The expanding programme is constantly updated on Facebook.
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Tuesday, 03 20, 5 pm
Conference “Francophony, economy and politics”, dedicated to the International Francophone Day VMU Mažoji hall, S. Daukanto g. 28
Participants of the conference include J. E. Philippe Jeantaud, French ambassador for Lithuania, also the Swiss ambassador for Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia J. E. Konstantin Obolensky, professor, VMU rector Juozas Augutis, the head of VMU centre for francophone countries, professor Aurelija Leonavičienė, and representatives of business companies. Tuesday, 03 20, 7.30 pm
Contemporary dance play “Norėčiau būti paparčio žiedu” [“I wish I was a fern flower”] VMU Didžioji hall, S. Daukanto g. 28
Dance theatre Aura will perform a play with the choreography created by Bea Debrabant (France) and Birutė Letukaitė (Lithuania). Tuesday, 03 20, 8 pm
Euroleague: Žalgiris Kaunas – Armani Milan
Žalgirio arena, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 50
Keeping in mind that this is the International Day of Happiness, we’d like for this arena to break the world record of the loudness of 15 thousand happy people.
March Wednesday, 03 21, 6 pm
Play “Mūsų miestelis” [“Our Town”]
National Kaunas Drama Theatre, Laisvės al. 71
Thursday, 03 22, 6 pm
Lecture “Simone Weil: desperatiškas Dievo laukimas” [“Simone Weil: desperately waiting for God”] Kaunas University of Technology, A. Mickevičiaus 37, room 202 (Aula)
In the context of mass rushing, alienating, narcissism and the attempt to desperately follow some plan, the play “Mūsų miestelis” (director Darius Rabašauskas) looks at the lives of regular people and tries to find meaning there. Why do we live at all? What is love? What is death? What is time and why don’t we appreciate it? What happens when our time runs out? Wednesday, 03 21, 6 pm
Gala concert “Lithuania – Ukraine” Kaunas State Musical Theatre, Laisvės al. 91
Soloists and conductors of the Kaunas State Musical Theatre and Kiev National Academic Theatre of Operetta will perform along with ballet artists and the choir from the former theatre. The audience will hear popular arias from operas, operettas, musicals, also duets and ensembles.
Simone Weil (1909-1943) is one of the crucial personas of the 20th century, known not only for her theological, philosophical and social works but also for her life story. Born in a family of an agnostic Jew, she got close to Christianity but wasn’t christened. Her doubts and spiritual experiences are perfectly reflected in the book “Waiting for God”, which was compiled by her friends after she passed away. Professor at Vilnius University, Dr. Tomas Sodeika will give the lecture about this impressive researcher.
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Calendar Thursday, 03 22, 7 pm
European women’s handball championship qualification: Lithuania – Turkey Kaunas Sports Hall, Perkūno al. 5
Earth Hour is a worldwide movement encouraging everyone to turn off non-essential electric lights and gadgets: “We don’t have a second Earth”. The team of Kūrybos kampas 360 invites everyone to talk about various topics linked to zero waste, ecological issues and so forth. Sunday, 03 25, 6 pm
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Play for families “Rūke” [“In the Fog”]
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Kūrybos kampas 360, Pramonės pr. 6
The Lithuanian women’s team started the qualification indeed very strongly, and the price of a victory at this stage is so high. The girls are ready to rewrite the history of handball in Lithuania!
Kaunas City Chamber Theatre, Kęstučio g. 74A
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Saturday, 03 24, 7 pm
Earth Hour
Friday, 03 23, 21:00
Sullen Guest concert Lemmy club, Girstupio g. 1
The Lithuanian death/doom metal musicians will introduce their fresh album, and the evening will be spiced some more by Belarusian bands Dymna Lotva and Victim Path.
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K AU N A S F U L L O F CU LT U R E
Hedgehog, Bear and Rabbit are three adults with their own rituals, ups, downs, and faith. The play following Sergei Kozlov’s film “Hedgehog in the Fog” and his fairy tales is a single-evening story about these three characters, all drenched in routine and the philosophy that’s born out of it.
March Tuesday, 03 27, 6 pm
Evening of documentaries Kaunas University of Technology, A. Mickevičiaus g. 37, room 213
The audience will witness two French movies for art lovers, both with Lithuanian audio – “Louvre: from the first tower to the pyramid” and “The Orsay Museum”.
Wednesday, 03 28, 6 pm
Concert “Myliu Prancūziją” [“I Love France”] Kaunas University of Technology, A. Mickevičiaus g. 37, room 202 (Aula)
The songs and arias by French composers will be performed by winners of international music competitions, students of a VMU professor Sabina Martinaitytė: Gabrielė Kuzmickaitė, Monika Pleškytė and Gabrielė Skromanaitė. Pianist – professor Audronė Eitmanavičiūtė. Members of the Makštutis family will also go on stage: Rokas – clarinet, Artūras – hornpipe, Jolita – piano.
Saturday, 03 31, 6 pm
Play “Balta drobulė” [“White Shroud”]
National Kaunas Drama Theatre, Laisvės al. 71
“A persistent, nearly fanatic aim for perfection in art usually coexists with a slight touch of insanity, and the legendary writers appearing in this piece prove that – Nietzsche, Edgar Poe, Ezra Pound, Kafka, Emily Dickinsom,” says director Jonas Jurašas, who has experienced the path of an emigrant during Soviet times due to political persecution. He’s especially close to the twofold feelings of Antanas Škėma [author of the book “White Shroud”] and his prototype Antanas Garšva: the doubts, the confusion between wanting to go home and not being able to do so, between disbelief and faith, between absurd and meaning. Saturday, 03 31, 9 pm
Garbanotas Bosistas concert „Largo“, Vaistinės skg.
The band which borrowed its name from the curly bass player has just released a new vinyl album. It’s a documentary salad of feelings, really, and if you haven’t loved it yet, the concert is a perfect opportunity for that.
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MARCH
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pilnas.kaunas.lt
“Grand Paris, you‘re a fantasy. A lisp fountain has been telling me stories about you for a century.” Markas Zingeris, “Around the Fountain or the Little Paris” (Tyto alba, 1998)
KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE Monthly magazine about personalities and events in Kaunas (free of charge)
Laisvės al. 59, third floor
Editorial office:
Authors: Andrejus Bykovas, Artūras Bulota, Bernadeta Buzaitė, Dainius Ščiuka, Donatas Stankevičius, Eglė Šertvyčūtė, Gie Vilkė, Gunars Bakšejevs, Julija Račiūnaitė, Kipras Šumskas, Kotryna Lingienė, Kęstutis Lingys, Lukas Mykolaitis, Paulius Tautvydas Laurinaitis, Tautė Bernotaitė, Teklė Ūla Pužauskaitė. Patrons:
KAUNO MIESTO SAVIVALDYBĖ
RUN 100010COPIES. TIRAŽAS 000 EGZ.
ISSN 2424-4481 2424-4465
Leidžia: Publisher
2018 3 (18) (31) 2017No. Nr. 2