Powder power! This season’s top snow destinations
Win A lu ! x
villa ury fam ho ily Tha liday in ilan d
Christmas sunshine Why we (still) love Phuket!
Chilling in Chiang Mai
Adventures with teens Laos on a bus
The perfect weekend getaway
Mistletoe and wine Europe’s best festive markets 1 Hong Kong Family Traveller
2 Hong Kong Family Traveller
OUR TEAM Editor Carolynne Dear carolynne@hongkongfamilytraveller.com
Art Director Anna Schulteisz anna@hongkongfamilytraveller.com
Digital Editor Gayatri Bhaumik gayatri@hongkongfamilytraveller.com
Classified Sales Sara Hopkirk hello@hongkongfamilytraveller.com
Consultant Editor Adele Brunner
Web Design & Technical Support TeamAlfy.com
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Online hongkongfamilytraveller.com Facebook @AsiaFamilyTraveller Instagram @asiafamilytraveller Twitter @family_kong Hong Kong Family Traveller is published bi-monthly by Penn & Ink Communications Limited. The content provided here is the property of Penn & Ink Communications Limited and no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without permission in writing from the Publisher. While the editors do their best to verify information published, Penn & Ink Communications Limited, its editors and its writers do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. The information provided by Penn & Ink Communications Limited’s contributors do not necessarily reflect the views of the Publisher or the company. The information here is provided in good faith but Penn & Ink Communications Limited bears no responsibility or liability for any recommendations or advice offered.
hello
from the editor’s desk
W
elcome to the end of the year and our wonderful Winter issue. It’s a social time of year and we are very pleased to be supporting Hong Kong’s Ladies Recreation Club and their charity lunch for breast cancer awareness this month. Ladies, we wish you all the best with the event and if you’re attending, please give generously to this worthy cause. As I write this, the mercury is still hitting the big 3-0 and it’s difficult to imagine ever being cold again. But even so, in the interests of good investigative journalism, we’ve rugged-up to bring you the most comprehensive family ski report. From the US and Canada to the Alpine resorts of Europe, discover the best resorts are whatever your ability. And if you are hitting the slopes this year, have fun. Snow isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, so we’ve also headed down to the sun-kissed shores of Phuket. It’s a perennial favourite beach destination and with good reason. This time of year is the perfect time to visit, as rainy season draws to a close and the sun starts to shine again.
Teens in tow? Photographer and mum-of-teengirls Tara J Smyth brings us a brilliant report about crossing Laos on a bus. From jungle camps to languid luxe in Luang Prabang, it’s an inspiring adventure. Happy festive season, enjoy your Christmas travels and see you in 2020!
Contributors
AMELIA SEWELL
TARA J SMYTH
International schools enjoy the pick of the crop when it comes to overseas camps. But are these great expeditions benefiting our children? Education correspondent Amelia Sewell goes on the trail on page 58.
Tara hit the highroads of Laos with her teenage daughters. Find out how they went on page 54.
What’s on your bucket list for 2020? Cape Town and Franschhoek. God bless friends who marry in exotic locations - it’s a perfect opportunity for some fabulous holidays! @bundlesewell
What was your best trip of 2019? In April I attended a four-day photography retreat in Goa. I stayed in an exquisite boutique villa with 12 other female amateur photographers. There were photographic successes and failures and enormous amounts of raucous laughter. We bonded like I’d never experienced before. @nitty_gritty_images Hong Kong Family Traveller 3
CONTENTS
REGULARS On the cover
Welcome to our Winter issue. This month we’ll be slaloming the world’s top ski resorts, taking it easy in Phuket and hitting the history trail in Chiang Mai. Plus there’s heaps of Christmassy destination inspiration.
06
Online
This month’s digital stories
09
In the loop
Legoland opens in New York plus other news
25
Weather watch
There’s no such thing as the wrong weather
26
Hotlist
What we’re excited about this winter
28
Travel sage
Wine trips without the whine
30
Reading matter
Great reads for Christmas
32
Hot & happening
Christmas markets worth the trip
58
Talking point
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Kids on school camp
62
Wellness travel
Art attack in Cambodia
64
Dining adventures
Waffling on and tea at Tiffany’s
68
Grown-up getaways
Charming Chiang Mai
Hong Kong Family Traveller 5
IN THIS ISSUE Winter | 2019
FEATURES 40
Focus - Phuket
If it ain’t broke
46
Ski special
From Aspen to St Anton, this year’s top resorts
54
Laos
Laid-back and perfect for teens
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2
3
4
5
6 Hong Kong Family Traveller
Takeaways this issue
Legoland is coming to New York. Find out more on page 12. You can now enjoy breakfast at Tiffany’s - in Asia. Find out where on page 64. Phuket’s got a new waterpark. Details on page 44. Australia’s annual Sculpture By The Sea event is moving out of Bondi. Find out why on page 18. You don’t have to leave Asia to enjoy a German Christmas market. Find out where to go instead on page 37.
Hong Kong Family Traveller 7
O NL I NE
digital stories
1
St Regis settles in as one of Hong Kong’s most exclusive staycation locations
The luxe, five-star hotel has ramped up the glamour on Harbour Road since its opening earlier this year. We stepped inside for a 24-hour staycation, road-testing the lavish amenities and sleek restaurant offerings. hongkongfamilytraveller.com - news and views
2
Hong Kong is host to a plethora of glitzy Christmas markets this festive season
From school fairs to five-star hotel events, there’s no shortage of shopping opportunities in Hong Kong in the festive run-up. Most events support local businesses and offer a huge variety of imaginative, stocking-friendly gifts, plus plenty of card, wrap and ornament inspiration. We’ve compiled the ultimate guide. hongkongfamilytraveller.com - latest news
Behind the scenes at Singapore’s new ‘hands-on’ science exhibition for kids A Hong Kong design company is behind this fun new learning experience for children. And these events don’t just happen, months of skill and planning has gone into the permanent exhibition. We go behind the scenes to find out what went where - and why you have to visit. hongkongfamilytraveller.com - news and views 8 Hong Kong Family Traveller
Giveaway
WIN
three nights at the sensational Anantara Mai Khao Villas!
Anantara Mai Khao Villas and Hong Kong Family Traveller have partnered to offer this fabulous prize, including: • Three nights accommodation for two adults and two children in a gorgeous, two-bedroom family pool villa, half-board. • Includes airport transfers. Anantara Mai Khao Villas is an all-pool villa oasis on Phuket’s tranquil northwest coast. Fringed by Sirinath National Park, the resort opens onto a quiet expanse of Mai Khao Beach and the Andaman Sea. The pool villas are spaced around the tropical gardens and lagoon and each have a private pool garden with comfy loungers. Relax at the beachfront infinity pool and jacuzzi with bubble massage beds and fountains, sun loungers in ankle deep water and a swim-up bar. Or if you’re feeling active, enjoy the resort’s championship-sized tennis courts, ‘cycle the lush tropical gardens, or try your hand at sea kayaking, bodyboarding, paddle boarding, Hobie wave sailing, Hobie Bravo sailing and windsurfing. Meanwhile, youngsters will have a ball at The Jakka Kids’ Club, with arts, crafts, games and nature excursions.
* Competition closes on December 15. The winner will be announced in the next issue of Hong Kong Family Traveller. ** Please read the full terms and conditions when you sign up.
To enter, sign up at hongkongfamilytraveller.com
Hong Kong Family Traveller 9
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TRAVEL NEWS 10
Hayman Island by InterContinental (pictured) is making all the right moves on Australia’s Great Barrier Reef
11
Singapore is wooing families by breaking ground on its S$90 million Sentosa SensoryScape project
13
Club Med has unveiled a US$110 million ski resort renovation in the French Alps
Hong Kong Family Traveller 11
I N T H E K NOW Relax at Hayman Island by InterContinental in tropical Queensland
AUSSIE WAVE OF NEW RESORTS Australia’s Whitsunday Islands are hot holiday news at the moment. New openings include the Great Barrier Reef’s first solar-powered resort, Elysian Retreat, and a luxe InterContinental resort on Hayman Island. Hayman Island by InterContinental has reopened following a AUS$135 million refurbishment. The resort boasts Planet Trekkers kids club, five restaurants and bars, 166 rooms and suites and is the closest private island to the Great Barrier Reef. Further water-based attractions in the area include a new underwater art-trail for snorkellers and divers and a floating pontoon, Heart Island, off Whitehaven Beach - visitors are flown in by helicopter and have 90 minutes to explore the heart-shaped island by boat, or simply relax by the turquoise waters.
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KIDS SLIP BEHIND THE SCENES Holiday Inn Resorts has launched a Little Big Hotelier programme for children aged four to 12 years. Kids will get the chance to see how a big resort works ‘below stairs’ as they take up roles in different departments under the guidance of the Holiday Inn Hotelier crew. “Children of various nationalities and ages can come together to spend their day with our crew,” said Shantha de Silva, head of resorts Thailand and Indonesia at InterContinental
Group. “They’ll have a whale of a time learning not only the operational aspects of running a hotel but also learning from each other and the resort staff that they’ll meet during their stay.” Departments covered include reception, porters, kitchen and kids club. Families can signup at Holiday Inn resorts Bali Benoa, Baruna Bali, Batam, Penang, Krabi Ao Nang Beach, Phi Phi, Phuket, Phuket Mai Khao Beach, Vana Nava Hua Hin and Kandooma Maldives.
The Swedish concept of ‘flygskam’, or ‘flight shame’, appears to be gaining ground. According to a survey by Swiss bank UBS earlier this year, one in five people asked said they had cut the number of flights they had taken over the last year due to climate change worries. The high profile climate campaign led by Swedish schoolgirl Greta Thunberg
has pushed environmentalism into the spotlight and appears to be triggering a change in global flying habits, particularly in the US and Europe. Twenty-four per cent of US travellers surveyed said they were worried enough to change their flying habits. UBS has since forecast that growth in US flights will fall from the 2.1% expected per annum to just 1.3%.
Nestopia outdoor playground opened in Sentosa earlier this year, part of the island’s wave of new developments
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CHECKING IN
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Snail mail Picture postcards are back. Why? UK-based Facebook Group Postcards of Kindness is asking travellers to put a smile on the dial of an elderly care home or hospice resident with a colourful card in the mail. The Postcards of Kindness Appeal aims to combat loneliness and isolation with this simple gesture from a stranger. Join the group for a list of participating homes.
Winter bathing The world’s largest water park is now open in Germany. Tropical Islands Resort is located inside a former airship hangar and boasts more than 16 acres of waterbased fun, including baby wading areas, waterslides, a lagoon and a ‘tropical sea’ that covers the area of three Olympic-sized pools. And for those that dare to brave the below-freezing temperatures, head outdoors for a dip in the Amazonia pool.
- CHECKING OUT Walking to your gate
FUN TIMES FOR SINGAPORE’S SENTOSA It’s all systems go in Sentosa, Singapore’s ‘State of Fun’, for a new, themed thoroughfare that will link Sentosa’s north and south shores. The new, two-tiered S$90 million Sentosa Sensoryscape project will link the mainland-facing Resorts World Sentosa with the beaches in the south of the island. Controversially, the Sentosa Merlion has now been removed to make way for the link. The project is due for completion in 2022 and will be the first milestone of long-term plans to reshape Sentosa and push neighbouring island Pulau Brani as a top leisure and tourism destination. Pulau Brani is around a quarter of the size of Sentosa and currently houses a port terminal.
Siloso on Sentosa will also be welcoming Siloso Green lifestyle quarter at the end of this year and a new family-themed attraction at Palawan Beach. Siloso Green will feature bars, food trucks, live music and waterfront accommodation. Sentosa received more than 19 million visitors in 2018. According to the Singapore Tourist Board, the redevelopment of the two islands “forms an integral part of Singapore’s efforts to rejuvenate its leisure offerings and maintain its appeal.” And if you’re missing the merlion, there are other statues throughout the Lion City at Merlion Park, Mount Faber, Tourism Court and Ang Mo Kio.
Why walk when you can slide to your departure gate? Along with Singapore’s tallest slide, Slide@T3 inside Terminal 3, Changi airport has now opened a second giant slippery dip in Terminal 4. It welcomes both kids and kids-at-heart - for every S$10 you spend in the airport, you can redeem a single, same-day ticket and simply swipe your boarding pass before riding.
Hong Kong flights It’s been a challenging few months for Hong Kong’s travel industry. Falling passenger numbers has meant Cathay Pacific has axed its Dublin route for the foreseeable future, with promises to re-look at it in the spring if demand resumes. Medan has also been dropped, as well as daytime flights to Paris and Frankfurt. Rival carrier Hong Kong Airlines has cut seven per cent of passenger flights until the end of the year.
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I N T H E K NOW
‘FLIGHT SHAME’ THREATENS AIR TRAFFIC GROWTH
I N T H E K NOW LEGOLAND ANNOUNCES NEW YORK OPENING The Fourth of July is the official opening day set for Legoland New York Resort. The huge park will boast more than 50 rides, shows and attractions across seven themed ‘lands’ on 150 acres. “Our park is in high gear and we’re on track for opening,” said a Legoland spokesperson. “Ride components are arriving for installation and our Lego models - more than 15,000 of them - are being shipped to our site from workshops all over the world. There are thousands of people working together to build the ultimate Lego theme park destination here in the Hudson Valley.” The park’s three tiers of Annual Passes are now on sale online, starting at US$119.99, and single-day passes at $62.99. Details about the Grand Opening will be announced in 2020 - watch this space
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VALUE FOR MONEY Italy is the cheapest country overall for European ski holidays, according to a UK-based cost analysis of a family trip to the slopes. The research was conducted by tour operator Crystal and the finance arm of the British Post Office. The annual survey examined the costs for a family of four over a week’s holiday, including lift passes, tuition and on-mountain lunches. It did not include accommodation, flights or transfers. The Bulgarian resort of Bansko came out as the cheapest, followed by the Italian resorts of Bardonecchia, Sestiere, Passo Tonale and Claviere. The top ten resorts also included areas in Slovenia and Austria, but none from France or Switzerland. The most expensive resort was found to be Saas Fee in Switzerland, followed by Kitzbuhel in Austria.
FOUR SEASONS BANGKOK OPEN FOR BOOKINGS
The brand new Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River is now accepting reservations for stays from February 1 2020. The eagerly anticipated luxe hotel is set along 200m of riverfront and offers 299 guest rooms including suites with garden terraces and a twostorey Presidential Suite. Additional facilities include a complimentary kids club, spa, two infinity pools overlooking the river and a variety of food and beverage options.
All-inclusive family holiday specialist Club Med is set to open a refurbished European mountain resort on December 15. Club Med Alpe d’Huez is located at 6,100 feet in the Grandes Rousses mountains in the Savoie region of the French Alps. The US$110 million renovation has transformed the resort into a modern, skiin, ski-out property. The ski terrain includes 155 miles of runs, with 18 black trails, 28 red trails, 31 blue and 34 green trails. The Club Med all-inclusive package comprises ski lift pass and access to daily group ski and snowboard lessons. Non-ski activities include snowshoeing, hiking, Nordic walking, cross-country skiing, skijoring, dog sledding, paragliding, rail sledding, ice skating and swimming lessons at the resort’s indoor pool. There is also a kids’ club programme for children aged four to 17 years. The 441-room resort offers Family Superior Rooms and family-friendly Suites, all with two bedrooms. Suites also feature
The all new Club Med Alpe d’Huez, France
two bathrooms, in-room lounge and private terrace with views over the valley. Club Med currently operates 50 beach resorts and 20 mountain ski resorts globally, but is aiming for an equal number
of ski and beach resort openings over the next few years. According to reports, it will be adding to its four Asia-based ski resorts with new openings in China, as well as a resort a year in the European Alps.
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I N T H E K NOW
CLUB MED UNVEILS ALPS RESORT
I N T H E K NOW
THE RIGHT FLIGHT Could zero-waste on board become a reality? A pop-up exhibition at London’s Design Museum in collaboration with the China and UK-based design studio PriestmanGoode is making positive moves. Get Onboard: Reduce. Reuse. Rethink. showcases ecoalternatives to single-use plastic disposables, including partiallyedible food trays made from used coffee grains and husks and food containers made from wheat bran.
Banana leaves and algae have been used to create eco-friendly cups. It is estimated that each passenger on a long-haul flight currently produces around one kilogram of rubbish, from toiletries to food waste, which equates to more than five million tonnes of cabin waste on global passenger flights each year. The exhibition runs until February 9, 2020.
Zero-waste flight packaging on display at London’s Design Museum
SAUDI WOOS TOURISTS
SYDNEY EMBRACES WILD SIDE Sydney’s Taronga Zoo has opened a wildlife eco-retreat. The Wildlife Retreat at Taronga offers overnight accommodation inside the zoo and guests will also be able to join guided tours with keepers and guides. The retreat includes five, environmentally-sensitive, sustainably-designed lodges built into the native bushland setting at the city zoo. The 62 guest rooms and suites overlook wildlife habitats and many have views of Sydney Harbour. Dining options at the retreat include menus with a focus on local produce and native ingredients. “For a zoo to remain relevant, 16 Hong Kong Family Traveller
it must constantly evolve,” said Cameron Kerr, chief executive officer of Taronga. “Guests will leave… with the knowledge that their stay has made a meaningful difference to wildlife and its conservation.” The retreat is owned by Taronga Conservation Society Australia and will contribute funding towards the care of Taronga’s animals and conservation and education programmes. Taronga is a not-forprofit organisation. Rates start at AUS$790 per night for two adults, including two-course dinner, buffet-breakfast and exclusive Australian animal experiences and complimentary general admission to the zoo.
Saudi Arabia has opened its doors to overseas tourists by launching a new visa regime for 49 countries. The visa now allows multiple entries and stays of up to three months. Additionally, there are no restrictions for unaccompanied women, as in the past. The tourism board has indicated that abayas (full Muslim robes) will not be mandatory for female visitors to the kingdom, but modest
dress covering shoulders and knees will be, including at public beaches. Alcohol will remain banned. Visas are available online or on arrival and will cost around US$120. China, Japan, Europe and the United States were among the top targets for the new visa. The move is part of the kingdom’s plans to develop industries away from the oil business. Saudi Arabia is the world’s top exporter of crude oil.
ELEPHANT TOURISM A NO-GO FOR BRITS New guidelines from the British Travel Association (ABTA) are set to label elephant riding by tourists as unacceptable. The guidelines also deem washing and touching elephants and viewing shows where elephants are forced to do tricks as inappropriate. According to World Animal Protection, around 3,000 elephants are currently used in the tourist industry in Asia. In order for elephants to be ‘tamed’, babies are
taken from their mothers and ‘broken’ with beatings and bullhooks. “ABTA strongly believes that elephants should not be subject to punishment and cruelty,” said a spokesperson for the travel association. “By classifying these activities as unacceptable practices, it sends a clear message to suppliers and holidaymakers.” The guidelines were due to be released in November.
The new play lounge at Cebu International Airport
Plaza Premium Lounge has introduced a Plaza Premium Playroom to its International Departure lounge in Terminal 2 at Mactan Cebu International Airport. The Playroom has been launched in collaboration with toy brand Masterkidz and the toys are sustainably made using FSC-certified European beech, Canadian wood and eco-friendly materials including waterbased paint and o-zone friendly glue. The family-friendly lounge is open 24-hours. Cebu’s tourist arrivals increased by more than 14% in 2018 and Terminal 1 is now undergoing a complete renovation. Plaza Premium lounges can be found in 35 international airports. The company is headquartered in Hong Kong.
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I N T H E K NOW
CEBU AIRPORT UPGRADES
I N T H E K NOW
PEAKY BLINDER Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in Lijiang, Yunnan province, China, is among the highest ski resorts in the world. The snowy and fog-shrouded mountain is revered by the local Naxi people as a holy mountain. All 13 of its peaks are covered in snow year-round. The mountain obtained its moniker as when it’s seen from Lijiang Old Town, it resembles a giant jade dragon lying down in the clouds. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is a haven for rare animals and wild plants and a quarter of all plant species in China can be found on its slopes. The ski resort is at an altitude 4,500-4,700m above sea level, is open from November to early May and is suitable for beginner and intermediate level skiers.
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L I JI ANG Hong Kong Family Traveller 19
I N T H E K NOW 20 Hong Kong Family Traveller
Sydney’s Sculpture By The Sea event is open until November 10. This 23rd annual event is the largest free-to-view public sculpture exhibition in the world and features more than 100 sculptures by artists from across the globe. Visitors are
invited to wander along the city’s stunning Bondi coastal path to view the two kilometrelong pop-up sculpture park. Over 500,000 visitors are expected and the growing popularity of the event led in the early 2000s to the creation of
Sculpture By The Sea, Cottesloe in Perth, which is now held every March. But this year could be the last that the Sydney leg is held in Bondi - proposed council upgrades and changes to the coastal footpath mean the
event is looking for a new home. The neighbouring councils of Northern Beaches, Woollahra and Sutherlandshire have all expressed interest in hosting the attraction.
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SYDNE Y
OCEAN VIEWS
I N T H E K NOW
POSITIVE VIBES The world’s first energy-positive hotel above the Arctic Circle is hoping to open its doors in 2021. The stunning Svart Hotel ‘floats’ on Holandsfjord at the foot of the mighty Svartisen glacier in the remote northern reaches of Norway and around 800 miles north of Oslo. The hotel will boast stunning 360 degree views of the glacier and the surrounding arctic nature. It is set to use 85% less energy than traditional hotels through a combination of solar panels, terraces to eliminate the need for artificial cooling and thick windows to maximise insulation. It will also produce its own energy. Activities for guests will include ice climbing, trekking, kayaking, swimming and fishing. Guests will also be able to witness the midnight sun in summer and the northern lights through the winter.
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NO RWAY Hong Kong Family Traveller 23
I N T H E K NOW 24 Hong Kong Family Traveller
Thailand is set to boost tourism to its ‘Andaman Triangle’ region with the recent ‘in principle’ approval for a new airport in Khao Lak, just north of Phuket. According to Airports of Thailand (AOT), the new international airport will help ease passenger traffic in the nearby airports of Phuket and Krabi. Under the plan, the new airport is expected to be completed by 2025 at a cost of around 60 million baht. Last year, Phuket International Airport welcomed 8.4 million passengers, and that figure is set to rise to 9.7 million this year. Meanwhile, Krabi International Airport welcomed 4.23 million visitors. Once the new airport is completed, each province in the ‘Andaman Triangle’ will effectively have its own airport.
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K H AO L AK
THAI FLY-BY
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WE AT H E R
Asia weather watch Brolly or bikini? What to pack this winter Cambodia
Cambodia is entering its dry season in November and temperatures are at their coolest. A great time of year to visit both the temples of Angkor as well as the beaches around Sihanoukville in the south of the country. Moving into December, expect dry, sunny weather with low humidity. This is one of the most popular months for visiting the country.
Vietnam
Laos
Sunshine in Vietnam too, at least in the north. Temperatures are beginning to dip making this an extremely comfortable time of year to visit - average temperatures hover around the 24 degree mark. If you want to go north and trek, the dry conditions mean this is the season to do it. However, expect storms and high rainfall in the centre - Hoi An has been known to flood at this time of year. If you venture further south, there is some great beach weather to be had.
Welcome to dry season! Hello blue skies and comfortably warm and sunny days. Chances of downpours are minimal for the next five months or so. Following green season rains, rivers are full and the countryside lush, so it’s a good time for a boat cruise. The great weather continues into December - but expect higher visitor numbers at the main tourist sites accordingly.
Hong Kong
November is traditionally the most popular time of year to visit Hong Kong. Falling humidity, easing temperatures and plenty of blue skies make this perfect weather for visitors, hikers and for generally hanging outdoors. By December, temperatures have dipped again but expect continuing sunny conditions.
The Philippines
It’s “hello dry season” in The Philippines, too. Some rainfall persists, but days are predominantly sunny and dry. The favourable conditions continue into December with humidity levels also starting to drop off. Expect temperatures of up to 32 degrees in popular beach regions such as Bohol, Cebu and Palawan.
Thailand
The rain is drying up and the humidity also begins to drop as November moves into December. The best beach weather can be found in the west (Phuket), although some rain continues to fall in the east (Koh Samui). November is also a good month to visit northern Thailand, including Chiang Mai and Kanchanaburi. The lower humidity and more comfortable temperatures continue into December and by Christmas, beach weather is perfect throughout the country.
Indonesia
Malaysia
Brollies at the ready as November welcomes Indonesia’s rainy season. Expect daily showers and the odd thunderstorm, especially moving into December. Temperatures are slightly cooler but still warm. December sees the height of the rainy season, although there is still plenty of sunshine interspersed betweens showers. Expect winds and rougher seas along Bali’s south coast beaches.
November is peak season for the west coast. Expect hot and humid conditions and the
Sri Lanka
A month of changing conditions for Sri Lanka as rainfall begins to drop away along the west and south coasts and the sunshine returns. In the hill country, temperatures can be chilly overnight and there is still plenty of rainfall. Expect rain in northern areas, as well. December is a fantastic time to visit the western and southern coast beaches, with lots of blue skies and sunshine. Rain continues in the north and east.
Singapore
occasional downpour in Langkawi and Pangkor. Over on the east coast it’s a different story with deteriorating weather and rough seas - some hotels and resorts close at this time until the spring. The favourable weather on the west coast continues into December while the north-east monsoon brings rain and storms to the east coast.
Hot, humid and with a chance of the odd thunderstorm. Who doesn’t love a mono-climate?! Expect plenty of sunshine at this time of year.
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H OT L I ST
On our radar
What we’re excited about this winter
Enjoy Hong Kong’s first-ever biennial light festival this winter. Lumieres Hong Kong is a community event inspired and in partnership with Fete des Lumieres Lyon, France, one of the world’s oldest light festivals. Landmark sites and buildings across Hong Kong will be turned into ‘canvases’ from 11pm, November 21-24 and November 28 - December 1. Venues include Man Mo Temple, PMQ, Tai Kwun, Hong Kong Museum of Art and Kowloon Park. The event is free-of-charge.
Following a massive UK tour, Madagascar the Musical is hitting Hong Kong this autumn. Follow the adventures of Alex and his Central Park Zoo friends live on stage, with fabulous costumes and scenery. The musical runs September 12-15, at Lyric Theatre, Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai. Tickets from hkticketing.com
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CATS is coming to Singapore. The curtains open on this perenniallypopular musical in December for a limited season. The Andrew Lloyd Webber production is one of the longest running in London’s West End and on Broadway, since its world premiere in 1981. The Singapore season runs from December 17, 2019 to January 5, 2020 at Sands Theatre at Marina Bay Sands.
Rug kids up with Bonpoint’s new winter collection. The pieces embrace prints, colour and flowers to brighten cooler days - mix floral prints with Harris tweed, cotton voile, corduroy and cashmere. And there’s a super-cute range of taffeta dresses, tulle skirts and sequined knits, perfect for the party season. In Hong Kong stores now.
Christmas and jigsaws go hand-in-hand. Lion Rock Press has now launched a super, Hong Kong-themed puzzle for the whole family. The fun puzzle is available online from this month.
Tiny transport-lovers will adore Build Your Own Track washi tape from Lion Rock Press. Perfect for life on-the-move, the rice paperprinted train and road-print tapes can be applied to a variety of surfaces without leaving a sticky residue - ideal for hotel room floors and restaurant dining tables. The tapes use non-toxic ink and are reusable. Just add toy vehicles and small children. Available online.
Ice skate beneath thousands of twinkling lights with one of London’s most recognisable buildings as a backdrop. The Natural History Museum in London’s South Kensington district has now opened its annual al fresco rink. There’s a huge Christmas tree, plus an alpine-style Cafe Bar for filling rumbling tummies with winter warmers. Most skating sessions run between 10am and 9pm. The rink runs until January 12 and will close on Christmas Day.
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H OT L I ST
Hong Kong’s swanky new K11 MUSEA on the regenerated harbour front at Victoria Dockside has opened Nature Discovery Park. The sustainability-themed education park supports local social enterprises and environmental conservation. It boasts a guided nature tour organised in association with the Jane Goodall Institute Hong Kong, which introduces kids to more than 180 plant species woven into K11 MUSEA’s interior and outdoor landscapes, with tips on adopting eco-friendly everyday habits. Additional plant-based learning workshops are available.
TRAVEL ADVICE
The travel sage Our travel guru explores Bali, Australia and ski-free snow resorts
Q&A DEAR MARIANNE
Bliss-out in Bali
We want snow, but we don’t want to ski! Where do you recommend? In Japan, Hoshino Resorts Tomamu in Hokkaido is a great option for non-skiers. There is an abundance of fun winter activities to be enjoyed off the ski slopes here, including snow rafting, banana boat rides, snow shoeing, ice fishing and even making your own baumkuchen (a type of cake). There’s also an ice village with an ice-rink, an ice hotel, slides made out of ice and even an outdoor natural hot spring made out of ice. Within the village there is also a bakery and café, sweet shops and gift shops to explore. Kids will also love Mina Mina Beach, the largest indoor beach in Japan, with one of the biggest wave pools in the country. Home to the alpine skiing events of the 2018 30 Hong Kong Family Traveller
Pyeongchang Winter Olympics, Yongpyong Ski Resort is the largest ski resort in South Korea and another fun option. Take Asia’s longest gondola ride at 7.4km to enjoy fabulous views of the mountain scenery, or head to Peak Island, Korea’s first alpine water park for some splashing good fun. There’s also snow tubing, sledding and a zip line on offer. If skiing is completely off the menu, consider visiting one of the Asian ice festivals. The Harbin International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival in China is the most famous, with its incredible ice sculptures attracting around 18 million visitors last year. A similar festival on a more modest scale is held in Sapporo every year in February.
DEAR MARIANNE We’re spending Christmas in Bali with the in-laws. Where to stay? With Bali it really depends on the type of holiday you are planning as each area has its own pros and cons. One thing to bear in mind is that the traffic can be terrible, so you do really need to pick the area you plan to spend most of your time. There is no point in staying in Nusa Dua if you hope to try out the Seminyak restaurants every evening. If you are mainly there for the beach and to relax, then Nusa Dua is probably your best bet. This is where you will find the best beaches on the island. However, don’t expect to find much in the way of local culture here. Popular hotel choices in Nusa Dua include the Grand Hyatt, Westin and St Regis.
All of these have good kids clubs, multiple swimming pools, beach access and a nice choice of restaurants. There is also a golf course if you have golfers in the family. Hiring a villa is a good option for multi-generational holidays, with family members getting their own space but having a communal living area to spend time together. Canggu is a popular area and is a bit quieter than Seminyak with a chilled, laid-back vibe. It’s also easy enough to travel into Seminyak for dinner if you want to try out some of the top restaurants there. And there are plenty of family-friendly villas in Seminyak itself if you prefer to be closer to the action.
TRAVEL ADVICE
Wine, not whine, in Australia’s Margaret River vineyards
DEAR MARIANNE Family-friendly vineyards in Margaret River - do they exist?! You are in luck as Margaret River does family-friendly wineries very well! Most of the winery restaurants have kids menus and you will also find toy boxes, outdoor garden games and even playgrounds at many. One of our favourites is Will’s Domain. Not only does it serve up some of the best cuisine in Margaret River, it also has a playground in full view of the alfresco dining area. They do a lunchbox-style lunch for the kids, and the views are fabulous too. Two more wineries with playgrounds onsite are Xanadu Wines and Aravina Estate. In addition to the playgrounds, they both also have large lawns to run around on, and both restaurants do fabulous mod-Aus cuisine and have kids menus.
Swings & Roundabouts is another family favourite. It’s the perfect place to kick back and relax with a chilled glass of rose in the afternoon. There is loads of space for the kids to run around and garden games such as swing ball, cricket and soccer balls are all on offer. Kids will love the wood fired pizzas here and I’m sure mum and dad will appreciate the very reasonably priced sparkling wine! If you want the opportunity to discover the wineries without having to nominate a designated driver, I can highly recommend a private wine tour with Wine for Dudes. They have vehicles to suit all group sizes and are really knowledgeable about the area. The guides are great with the kids too.
MOST WINERY RESTAURANTS HAVE KIDS MENUS, PLUS TOYS, GAMES AND SOMETIMES PLAYGROUNDS
MARIANNE ROGERSON Mum-of-two Marianne Rogerson is a travel blogger and author and has lived all over the world. If you have a question, email her at hello@mariannerogerson.com. Follow her adventures at mumonthemove.com
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READING MATTER
Cool reads for Christmas Stuff stockings with a good book FOR KIDS
The Book of Dust: The Secret Commonwealth
Christmas Stories
Dog Man: Fetch-22
Enid Blyton
Dav Pilkey
Philip Pullman
A timeless collection of festive tales from one of Britain’s most prolific writers of the 20th century - perfect for snuggling up with the kids on a chilly evening. From Santa Claus and his helpers to a family putting up their tree, the characters in the stories embrace the Christmas spirit. This collection contains the original texts and is unillustrated.
Petey the Cat is out of jail and while he has a brand-new lease on life, Li’l Petey is struggling to find the good in the world. Can Petey and Dog Man stop fighting to put their paws together and work as a team? From the popular Dog Man series exploring themes of empathy, persistence and staying true to yourself.
The second volume of Philip Pullman’s The Book of Dust sees 20-year-old Lyra and her daemon Pantalaimon drawn into the complex and dangerous factions of the world they had no idea existed. They must travel across Europe and into Asia, searching a city haunted by daemons, a desert secret and the mystery of the elusive Dust.
Diary of a Wimpy Kid: Wrecking Ball Jeff Kinney Following an inheritance windfall, the Heffley family begins on a home improvement programme but with far from perfect results. When things get rough, will the Heffleys be able to stay? Or will they be forced to move? The latest in the adventures of the infamous Heffley family.
We Are Book of th e All Greta m
Launch event Hong Kong author Jane Karen Ho has compiled a clever and compact backpack-friendly picture book story about life in the territory. Emi Takes Hong Kong is perfect reading if you and your child are new to Hong Kong or if you just want to get to know the city a little better. The inspiring story about creativity doubles up as a travel guide, with a colourful map, quiz and picture glossary also included. And there’s a fun ‘search-andfind’ element on each spread. The book is set to launch at a family-friendly event hosted by Bookazine, Exchange Square, Hong Kong on November 9.
LANDMARK PRINCE’S Shop 326-328, 3/F Landmark Prince’s Building 10 Chater Road, Central Tel: 2522 1785
ifc MALL Shop 3092C, Podium Level 3 8 Finance Street, Central Tel: 2813 2770
EXCHANGE SQUARE Shop 305-07 One Exchange Square Central Tel: 2542 1133
LYNDHURST TERRACE Shop 1, G/F, 46 Lyndhurst Terrace Central Tel: 2970 3999
THREE PACIFIC PLACE Shop 4, Level B3 Three Pacific Place Wan Chai Tel: 2997 3018
www.bookazine.com.hk 32 Hong Kong Family Traveller
TIMES SQUARE Shop 925, 9/F Times Square Causeway Bay Tel: 2521 1649
Valentina Giannella
onth
Author Valentina Gianella follows in the footsteps of Swedish environmental activist Greta Thunberg in her global mission to save the planet from climate change. We Are All Greta sets out the basic ideas required to understand climate change, explained in an accessible way and drawing on the most authoritative sources.
REPULSE BAY G/F, Shop G107C-D The Repulse Bay Arcade Repulse Bay Tel: 2750 1136
DISCOVERY BAY Shop 104B, Block A 1/F, DB Main Plaza Lantau Island Tel: 2987 1373
FESTIVAL WALK Shop UG-46 80 Tat Chee Avenue Kowloon Tong Tel: 2808 1901
Christmas Shopaholic
Me
Sophie Kinsella
Elton John
Lighten up with the latest ‘chick lit’ read from this number one bestselling author. Becky Brandon adores Christmas. Mum and dad hosting, carols playing, mum pretending she made the Christmas pudding and the neighbours popping round for sherry in terrible festive jumpers. But this year looks set to be different. Unable to resist the draw of craft beer and smashed avocado, Becky’s parents are moving to uber-trendy Shoreditch - and they’ve asked Becky to host. Will she cope?
This is the singer’s first official autobiography and claims to reveal the truth about his extraordinary life. A shy child, Elton John grew up in London suburbia and dreamt of becoming a pop star. By the age of 23 he was performing his first gig in the US. The book covers his friendships with John Lennon, Freddie Mercury and George Michael and there is powerful prose about getting clean following drug addiction, finding love with David Furnish and becoming a father.
Agent Running in the Field
The Guardians
John Le Carre
Twenty-two years ago Quincy Miller was framed for murder and sentenced to life without parole. He was accused of killing a Florida lawyer but there was no reliable witness and little motive. But the lack of evidence made no difference to judge and jury. After 22 years comes Quincy’s one-andonly chance of freedom. But there are powerful, ruthless individuals behind Russo’s murder and they’d prefer an innocent man in jail than one of them. From the master of legal fiction.
Nat is a 47-year-old veteran of Britain’s Secret Intelligence Service and believes his years as an agent are over. He’s back home in London with his longsuffering wife, Prue, when the growing threat from Moscow Centre means the office has one more job from him…
John Grisham
Last Christmas Greg Wise
The Water Dancer Ta-Nehisi Coates
Grand Union
Hiram Walker is born into slavery in America’s deep south. When his mother is sold, Hiram is robbed of all memories of her. A near-death experience spurs him to execute a daring escape from home and he begins an unexpected journey from the corrupt grandeur of Virginia’s proud plantations to guerilla cells in the wilderness and dangerously idealistic movements in the north of America. Through it all, Hiram is resolved to save the family that he has left behind.
A collection of nineteen short fiction stories from the award-winning author. Weaving ten completely new and unpublished stories with some of her best-loved work from the New Yorker and elsewhere, Smith presents a rich collection of fiction. From 1950s London to modern-day Manhattan, this is a sharp examination and clever commentary on the lives we live today and what might be yet to come.
Zadie Smith
A collection of stories including writing by Meryl Streep, Bill Bailey, Emilia Clarke, Olivia Colman, Caitlin Moran, Emily Watson and others. It has been compiled alongside the upcoming movie, Last Christmas, starring Emma Thompson, Emilia Clarke and Henry Golding and is a soulful set of personal essays about the meaning of Christmas. Away from the tv adverts, the high street decorations and the commercialisation of the holiday season, this uplifting book celebrates the importance of kindness and generosity, acceptance and tolerance. Introduced by Greg Wise and curated by Emma Thompson.
The Institute Stephen King Deep in the woods of Maine is a dark state facility where kids abducted from across the US are incarcerated. They are subjected to tests and procedures meant to combine their exceptional gifts - telepathy, telekinesis - for concentrated effect. Twelve-yearold Luke Ellis is the latest recruit. He’s super-smart and has another gift the Institute wants to use… But Luke and his friend Kalisha are in no doubt they are prisoners with no hope of escape. And then they team up with a new, even younger recruit whose ability to read minds is off the scale. Hong Kong Family Traveller 33
READING MATTER
FOR GROWN UPS
H OT & H A PPE NI NG 34 Hong Kong Family Traveller
for Christmas
Glitz-up your Christmas shopping experience this year with a trip to the world’s most gorgeous festive markets
PRAGUE CHRISTMAS MARKETS, PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC
Where to stay The elegant Mandarin Oriental boasts a rooftop terrace, heated pool and cafe with stunning views across the city. The hotel is in the heart of the Old Town and perfect for a luxe break to get you into the Christmas spirit. Neuturmstrase 1, 80331 Munich.
Prague, one of Europe’s most stunning capitals, doesn’t disappoint when it comes to Christmas vibes. The main markets are located at Old Town Square, Wenceslas Square, Republic Square and Peace Square. Expect plenty of yummy winter fare, warming drinks and a huge selection of decorations, jewellery, toys and accessories. November 30 2019 - January 6 2020 Where to stay With views over Old Town Square, Charles Bridge and Prague Castle, Four Seasons Hotel Prague is one of the best-appointed hotels in the city. The hotel is sited on three historic buildings and oozes charm. Veleslavinova 1098/2a, 110 00 Praha 1.
The market is held on Marienplatz (St Mary’s Square) in the city centre. Enjoy a huge, beautifully-lit Christmas tree and live, advent music performances every evening at 5pm from the balcony of the Town Hall. In nearby Neuhauser Strasse is Germany’s largest ‘manger market’ with ‘live’ nativity scenes. There is a free, cultural and historical tour of the Christmas Market on the first Sunday of Advent from 4.30-6pm, led by certified tour guides of the City of Munich. Meet at the Christmas tree on Marienplatz. November 27 - December 24
Left - All the fun of the fair in Prague Below - Enjoying the Munich Christmas Market
GERMAN CHRISTMAS MARKET, SAPPORO, JAPAN This event has been held every year since 2002 when it was inaugurated to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the sister city partnership of Munich and Sapporo. There will be stalls selling festive European fare and for kids there’s an indoor decoration-making workshop, performances and outdoor concerts. The event coincides with the Sapporo White Illumination (520,000 light bulbs illuminating Odori Park), which runs adjacent to the village. November 25 - December 25 2019 Where to stay The sleek Sapporo View Hotel offers complimentary breakfast and overlooks Odori Park. It’s walking distance from Sapporo Clock Tower Museum and a short drive from Sapporo Maruyama Zoo if you’re looking for additional activities. 8 Chrome Odorinishi, Chuo Ward, Sapporo.
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H OT & H APPE NI NG
Twelve markets
THE MUNICH CHRISTMAS MARKET, MUNICH, GERMANY
H OT & H A PPE NI NG BATH CHRISTMAS MARKET, ENGLAND The award-winning market is held in one of England’s most picturesque cities. Enjoy more than 150 twinkling chalets spread across Bath’s pretty Georgian streets, selling anything from homewares to handcrafted jewellery, artisan gifts and Christmas decorations. And of course there’s plenty of mulled wine to keep you toasty. November 28 - December 15 2019 Where to stay The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa enjoys a rich, 250-year history and boasts some of the finest examples of Georgian architecture in the country. Expect magnificent four poster beds and all the trimmings of a true five-star property. 16 Royal Crescent, Bath, Somerset.
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Above - Soaking up the history at Bath Christmas Market, UK
VENICE CHRISTMAS MARKET, VENICE, ITALY For the three weeks leading up to Christmas, Campo Santo Stefano is transformed into a sparkling Christmas village. The campo (square) adds to the festive atmosphere with its backdrop of stunning Venetian palaces. The market is filled entirely with Venetian craft specialities - shop Christmas ornaments, Morano glass, traditional carnival masks and Venetian marbled paper. December 3-24 2019 Where to stay Hotel Santo Stefano is a boutique hotel in a Renaissance building which is in the thick of the action and a short walk from St Mark’s Square and Rialto Bridge. Families are welcome with rooms for two adults, two children. Campo Santo Stefano, 2957, 30124 Venezia.
Whilst not the only Christmas market in Hungary’s capital city, the Christmas Market on Vörösmarty Square is the oldest and most spectacular. Craft stalls are only open during the advent period - unlike St Stephens Square where you’ll find heaps of Hungarian handmade goods throughout the Christmas lead-up and up until New Year’s Day. Fill up on local sweet delicacy, kürtőskalàcs (chimney cake), and don’t miss the lighting of the advent candle on the huge Christmas wreath at 4pm every Sunday, followed by carols. November 8 2019 - January 1 2020 Where to stay The historic New York Palace Budapest is centrally located on the city’s Grand Boulevard and its famous New York cafe on the ground floor has been a longtime centre for Hungarian literature and poetry. After the ravages of communism and World War II, the building was completely renovated in 2006. Erzsébet krt. 9, 1073 Budapest.
COPENHAGEN CHRISTMAS MARKET, COPENHAGEN, DENMARK Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen knows how to turn on the charm come Christmas - and of course nowhere does Hygge better. Tivoli gardens transform into a winter wonderland for kids, while the cafes along the picturesque Nyhavn ladle oodles of steaming hot glogg (mulled wine) and platefuls of pastries as you browse the stalls. Save the diet for the new year. November 16 - December 22 2019 Where to stay The charming 71 Nyhavn Hotel is located in a converted nineteenth century warehouse with stunning views over Nyhavn Canal. It’s walking distance from both the city centre shops and the Nyhavn. Nyhavn 71, Copenhagen 1051.
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H OT & H APPE NI NG
CHRISTMAS MARKET ON VÖRÖSMARTY SQUARE, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY
H OT & H A PPE NI NG THE STRASBOURG CHRISTMAS MARKET, STRASBOURG, FRANCE Christkindelsmarik is held on the Grande Ile near Strasbourg Cathedral every year and draws around two million visitors. The market dates back to the 1500s, making it one of the oldest in Europe. You’ll be mesmerised by the fairy lights, the aromas of delicious food and the 300 wooden chalets set up in the city’s historic centre - and of course there’s a tree, too. With good reason has Strasbourg been nicknamed the ‘capital of Christmas’. November 22 - December 30 2019 Where to stay The modern, five-star Sofitel Strasbourg Grande Ile is conveniently located in the heart of the UNESCO world heritage site of the Grande Ile district. And it’s strolling distance to the Cathedral, luxe boutiques and the Petite France district. 4 Place Saint Pierre le Jeune, 67000 Strasbourg.
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HONG KONG WINTERFEST, HONG KONG Stay right here in Hong Kong as the territory dresses up for the yuletide celebrations. Statue Square will be welcoming a huge Christmas tree and most of the main shopping malls will be setting up grand displays - worth checking out are ifc mall, Landmark, Ocean Terminal, Pacific Place and Heritage 1881. There will also be festive markets a-plenty. Check our online guide for more details. Throughout December 2019 Where to stay Fancy a staycation? Mandarin Oriental is in the thick of the action and overlooks Statue Square. It’s a stroll from most of Central’s shopping malls and if you’re bringing the kids, cots and rollaway beds can be requested. 5 Connaught Road, Central.
CHRISTMAS WONDERLAND FESTIVE MARKET, SINGAPORE Expect a huge yuletide celebration at Gardens By The Bay in the Lion City, Singapore’s biggest Christmas celebration. Enjoy massive light sculptures, a Christmas market, a giant tree, an ice palace and plenty of entertainment for children, including carnival rides, entertainers, theatrical performances and a parade. And of course there’ll be plenty of food and drink. November 30 - December 26 2019 Where to stay Marina Bay Sands is walking distance from Gardens By The Bay, plus it boasts possibly the most impressive pool in which to cool off in Singapore. 10 Bayfront Avenue, Marina Bay.
Enjoy a taste of Germany at the festivities that mark Japan’s most extravagant Christmas market. The event is held in partnership with German Tourism and the German Embassy so there will be plenty of European cheer, including a 14-metre Christmas tree shipped from Germany, Christmas workshops, a German choir, handmade festive ornaments and lots of hot chocolate, beer, mulled wine and other treats. December 14-25 2019 Where to stay Tokyo’s Grand Hyatt hotel is directly connected to Roppongi Hills, which is where the Christmas Market is held. The modern hotel also offers a spa, pool and fitness centre. 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-Ku, Tokyo.
VIENNESE CHRISTMAS MARKET, VIENNA, AUSTRIA
Above - The giant Christmas tree and picturesque backdrop of Strasbourg Christmas Market
Vienna’s picture-perfect squares magically transform into Christmas markets, one of the most well-known of which is the traditional Vienna Magic of Advent at City Hall Square. Enjoy festive food and drinks, Christmas workshops for kids and gift stalls. Another market worth noting is in front of Schonbrunn Palace - shop handicrafts and homemade gifts while enjoying a programme of Christmas concerts. November 16 - December 24 2019 Where to stay The elegant Hilton Vienna Plaza is just is just minutes from City Hall Square, St Stephen’s Cathedral, the State Opera and Hofburg Imperial Palace. It boasts large rooms as well as family rooms. Schottenring 11, 1010 Wien.
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H OT & H APPE NI NG
TOKYO CHRISTMAS MARKET, TOKYO, JAPAN
Giveaway
WIN a stunning Hong Kong Typographic canvas by artist Louise Hill! Louise Hill Design and Hong Kong Family Traveller have partnered to offer this fabulous prize. Louise Hill is a graphic designer and artist with a passion for Asia. Her vibrant and highly detailed digital artworks include photography of vintage objet d’art from her extensive private collection, as well as her own street photography celebrating the architecture, food and culture of life in Asia. She is currently based in Singapore having lived in both China and Hong Kong. Hong Kong Typographic is a colourful memory of Hong Kong. “The images are photographs of vintage objects I have collected or buildings on the street that relate to a ‘nostalgic’ look at Hong Kong’s heritage. I have added images of recognisable landmarks, including taxis and trams, the Aqua Luna junk, letterboxes and various ‘good fortune’ symbols." *Competition closes on December 12. The winner will be announced in the next issue of Hong Kong Family Traveller. **Please read the full terms and conditions when you sign up.
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FEATURES 40
The best of sunny Phuket this Christmas - where to stay and what to do
46
Hitting the slopes with the kids, from the glamour of Aspen (pictured) to the European Alps
54
Getting the best out of Laos in green season with the family in tow
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F O CUS 42 Hong Kong Family Traveller
PHU K ET
F CUS Phuket If you’re looking for winter sunshine, now is the perfect time to hit the beaches of Phuket. Carolynne Dear flew over with the family for a multi-generational break
T
he ice in our glasses sparkles in the last of the day’s sunlight as we watch the glowing, titian sun sink into the shimmering ocean on the horizon. It’s another glorious sunset on the holiday island of Phuket, viewed this evening over a family meal from a bar at Karon View Point in the south of the island. Our busy day had begun with a trip to the Big Buddha and ended with a browse around the town and markets of Kata before hitting the cliff road for sundowners. Sunny and short-haul, Phuket is a perennial family favourite, and with good reason. The palm-fringed Thai island serves up a fine line in, well, pretty much everything you’d ever want from a tropical holiday destination. From family-friendly hotels to luxe and lovely resorts, and from beachside food shacks to swanky beach clubs, Phuket ticks all of the boxes. The most popular of the island’s 36 beaches are situated along the western shores. The interior is junglecovered and if you’re looking for culture, the pretty capital, Phuket City, boasts plenty of insta-friendly old shophouses, busy markets and great street food. The beaches are mostly golden and gorgeous and lapped by the crystal-clear, jade waters of the Andaman Sea. In terms of recommended times to visit, you can expect the best of the sunshine from November through to May, although by April it is steamingly hot. From May to October there can be daily downpours and wild seas. But, as with all destinations these days, climate change is making weather patterns less predictable. Earlier this year, we enjoyed a multi-generational holiday in Phuket, entertaining three children plus Nanny and Grandad who were visiting from the UK. Our overseas visitors wanted some guaranteed sunshine, a nice resort and somewhere not too far away (given they’d just stepped off a 12-hour flight from London). In terms of resort accommodation, in Phuket you are spoilt for choice. From the popular northwestern coast which offers proximity to the airport in a quieter part of the island, to the beach resorts in the south and the lively night markets. Hong Kong Family Traveller 43
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We had opted for the Laguna Phuket complex, which occupies a Fishy business on central-ish position on the west coast. Banana Beach, Three hours after take-off from a rainy Hong Kong, we landed at Coral Island Phuket International Airport just as the sun was setting. We were whisked into a minibus for the 40-minute drive to our accommodation at Angsana Villas Resort. The sprawling Laguna Phuket complex is set along the shores of Phuket’s Bang Tao Bay and when built was Asia’s first integrated resort. The resort comprises seven hotels, Banyan Tree Phuket, Angsana Laguna Phuket, Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket, Outrigger Phuket Beach, Best Western Allamanda Laguna, Laguna Holiday Club Phuket and Movenpick Resort Laguna. With the exception of Banyan Tree and Movenpick, all cater admirably for families with plenty of kids’ clubs, family pools and child-friendly dining. The hotels are spread between myriad lagoons and canals on 1,000 acres of landscaped parkland. In addition to the resorts’ facilities, there is a shopping village, spas and an 18-hole golf course. And it’s all just a stone’s throw from the sandy eight kilometres of Bang Tao Beach. We’d opted for a four-bedroom villa which we thought would be more conducive to a family-centered holiday than hotel rooms. And we were also able to enjoy the Angsana’s resort facilities, including the daily buffet breakfast. The villa itself was spacious and well-appointed. A huge open-plan dining, kitchen and lounge area led out onto a patio and a frangipani treeflanked pool to the rear of the property. And over the back fence was the If you want to explore a bit more of the island at your own pace, it’s 18-hole golf course. definitely worth hiring a car; we rented ours though the hotel reception. The bedrooms were large - three were ensuite - and we benefited from With right-hand drive vehicles and reasonable road conditions, getting hotel staff popping in every morning to mop round and see to the garden around Phuket is straight-forward. and pool. We were also able to order room service. In fact, the villa was One of our favourite day trips was to (another) Banana Beach, this one so tranquil we didn’t bother using the resort pool at all. Lazy mornings on Coral Island just off the south coast. You can pick up a speedboat were spent taking a dip and playing endless rounds of ‘Marco Polo’ with on the jetty in Chalong Bay (don’t forget to haggle) and then it’s a forty Grandad, and then we’d motor off for lunch on the sand at one of the minute journey out to the island. This is not off-the-beaten-track desert numerous beach shacks and a swim in those jade ocean waters. island territory, it’s tourist-friendly, but in the nicest possible way. There On the downside, it was a ten-minute walk back to the hotel and are loungers on the beach, snorkel gear for hire and a breakfast - the shuttle bus didn’t seem to run very small shop selling swimwear and sunscreen and other regularly and Nanny didn’t feel up to pedalling in the essentials. So while it might not appeal to off-the-grid heat on one of the complimentary bicycles that are millennials, it was really rather useful when you’re getting provided with each villa. However, as we had decided four children out of the door and will definitely have to hire a car so we could access a bit more of the THE BEACHES ARE forgotten something important (like your son’s swimmers, island, we ended up driving into breakfast each which is just an example of course; obviously I didn’t morning. If you’re toting a stroller, the walk was flat MOSTLY GOLDEN really do that). and pram-friendly, but it might be worth checking just AND GORGEOUS The snorkelling was fantastic - there was plenty of how far your villa is from the hotel when you book. living reef a little way out and all manner of beautiful fish In terms of dining, you can use the resort AND LAPPED BY THE which could be seen right up to the shore, great for littlies restaurants or, as we did, head over to Bang Tao to splash in the shallows. The water was crystal clear and Beach in the evening where there is plenty of relaxed, JADE WATERS OF local-style dining on the sand and lots of fun activities THE ANDAMAN SEA not a scrap of rubbish was to be seen on the seabed. We spent hours bobbing around, mesmerised by the watery to keep kids amused - one restaurant even had a depths, and Nanny had a wonderful time with my eldest bouncy castle. daughter in a glass-bottomed kayak. There’s heaps to do in Phuket. Top beaches around the island include And there was a beach shack serving platters of Thai favourites and Karon, Kata, Yanui, Ao Yon and Kamala. We particularly enjoyed our local bottles of ice cold Singha beer for lunch - all in all, a perfect family day. Banana Beach, which you had to scramble down a wooded path at the If you want to head even further out from Phuket, the island of Ko edge of the road to reach. If you hit the sands early enough, you were Racha is also worth the trip. rewarded with an empty beach and a beautiful swimming bay with plenty On another afternoon we headed to Phuket Elephant Sanctuary. of snorkelling opportunities. By midday the tourist boats had started to Asia’s elephant ‘sanctuaries’ are a controversial topic with the labels pull in. 44 Hong Kong Family Traveller
PHU K ET
‘sanctuary’ and ‘ethical’ being bandied around to attract the tourists. A basic rule of thumb is to find out whether the elephants are asked to ‘do’ anything - if you’re being invited to watch them do tricks, ride them or even bathe them, then the venue is not truly a sanctuary. PES rescues elephants from the Thai tourist and logging industries and enables them to retire in peace. PES can pick-up from your resort and from its headquarters, visitors are driven in pick-up trucks out to the facility. We were provided with rubber boots, divided into small groups and shown around the park on foot to view the herd. The guides are informative
and patient and there is plenty of opportunity to take pictures from a distance and ask questions as the elephants amble around freely. We watched a mahout take his charge to bathe in a muddy lake which was beautiful to watch. I would recommend bringing a camera with a zoom. Back at the hut, we were invited to feed a cucumber afternoon tea to a couple of the herd and then a delicious Thai buffet was served to the humans. A fascinating afternoon that proved you don’t need to be sitting on or swimming with these beautiful animals to appreciate them. Do take sun-hats and sunscreen, though, as it is hot touring the park.
Clockwise, from top left - Phuket is blessed with golden beaches; long-tail boats, Coral Island; Kayaks stacked and ready, Coral Island; set sail on the Andaman Sea; paddle-boarding at The Village Coconut Island; Surin Beach
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WHERE TO GO James Bond Island & Phang Nga Bay Phang Nga Bay is a must-see with multiple islands and towering limestone cliffs. The most famous island is Koh Tapu, also known as ‘James Bond Island’ for its role in The Man with the Golden Gun. Try and arrive early as it can get very busy as the day progresses. A sunrise tour can work well. Kayaking adventures around the islands are also available.
Old Phuket Town Head away from the beach and book a walking tour of Old Phuket Town. This historical area is not huge but there’s enough to fill a half-day tour. There are also plenty of cafes and restaurants to break things up. Expect to see lots of Sino-Portuguese style shophouses, Thai temples, Chinese shrines and a couple of museums.
‘James Bond’ island in Phangnga Bay.
Similan Islands The Similan Islands National Park is located northwest of Phuket. Tours here include stops for snorkelling and swimming in the crystal clear waters. The journey out to the national park takes just under two hours - start out from Khao Lak if you want a shorter journey. From February to April migrating whale sharks and manta rays can be spotted. The park is closed between May and October for monsoon season.
‘Little Amazon’ river tour Hop in a kayak and explore Thailand’s wilder side, paddling through the jungle. Spot monkeys, crabs and snakes as you cruise along. To access the trip, you’ll need to head over the bridge that joins Phuket with the mainland and on to Takua Pa. If you want to stay longer in the area, check out the white water rafting and waterfalls at Khao Sok National Park.
Exploring Old Phuket Town
Blue Tree Water Park
Phuket’s Big Buddha
The newly opened Blue Tree Phuket water park is located by the freshwater, Blue Tree Lagoon in Angsana Laguna. The lagoon is Phuket’s first man-made and eco-friendly lagoon and has been tailor-constructed for use as a water activitybased fun park. Kids under 90cm are admitted for free.
Phuket Big Buddha Phuket’s Big Buddha is one of the most revered landmarks on the island and worth the trip. It sits serenely atop the Nakkerd Hills between Chalong and Kata. It’s an impressive 45 metres tall and it can be seen from as far away as Phuket Town and Karon Beach. Sarongs are provided for coverage of bare shoulders and above-knee shorts and if you can last the queue, you’re rewarded at the top with 360-degree views over Phuket Town, Kata, Karon and Chalong Bay.
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THE VILLAGE COCONUT ISLAND
Check out Phuket’s east coast at this idyllic, family-friendly resort. Coconut Island is just 500m off the coast of Phuket and hosts a luxe offering of accommodation, including Jacuzzi suites, Grand Villas and Pool Villas. Channel the resort’s adventurous past with family-friendly activities including mountain biking, sailing, water skiing, stand-up paddle boarding, kayaking, tennis, Thai cooking courses and boat trips. A 24-hour water taxi whisks guests to and from the resort and the mainland. thevillage-coconutisland.com
HILTON PHUKET ARCADIA RESORT & SPA, KARON BEACH This stunning 75-acre resort is set in lush tropical gardens and surrounded by mountains and the golden sandy beaches of Karon. Just 45 minutes from Phuket airport, the resort boasts rooms and suites including deluxe gues rooms and executivesuites. All rooms have balconies with either sea or garden views. Family-friendly facilities include Kidz Paradise kids club for youngsters, highchairs in all restaurants, no less than five pools featuring two split-level pools with waterslides, games room, gym, spa and four restaurants. phuketarcadia.hilton.com
DOUBLE TREE BY HILTON PHUKET BANTHAI RESORT The brand new resort opened this autumn and marks the Double Tree by Hilton brand’s second hotel in Thailand. Double Tree by Hilton is located opposite the white sandy beach of Patong with close proximity to the town’s local markets and shopping malls. Each guest room has a private balcony with views over the resort gardens and one of the three swimming pools. Additional facilities include five restaurants and bars and a 24-hour fitness centre.
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PHU K ET
WHERE TO STAY
F E AT UR E
SNOW PATROL We’ve slalomed the slopes of some of the world’s most popular winter destinations to bring you this ultimate family ski guide Aspen, United States The former silver-mining town is one of the world’s most glamorous ski destinations. Well-heeled visitors and Hollywood greats have been visiting since the 1950s and celebrities can regularly be spotted out and about. Four mountains make up Aspen Snowmass - Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Buttermilk and Snowmass. They are all included in the ski pass and they are connected by a free shuttlebus service.
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Local skier Victor Major has been carving up Aspen’s glistening slopes for the last five seasons Why Aspen? Aspen may not get the most snow, but it does get some of the best snow. And if you combine that with beautiful, consistent weather, diverse terrain and smooth operations you end up with a world-class experience. We offer four distinct mountains with varied experiences and terrain.
First tracks in glistening Aspen
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How reliable is the powder? Aspen is blessed with moderate temperatures and more sunny days than not, so with along plenty of powder there is always good skiing. We ski from late November through to April and sometimes into May. Last year we even managed to hit the slopes in June. Which ski levels are catered for? We have access to all four mountains which means the terrain is varied and we have something for everyone. Whether you’re a complete beginner or an expert, there will be something to suit. We also have a ski school on every
mountain. More experienced skiers can enjoy wide-open Alpine bowls and steep technical trees. What do you offer off-piste? There are heaps of fun, non-ski activities if you want a day off. We have the Alpine Coaster, snow bike lessons, tubing, ice skating, an indoor climbing wall, snow-cat dinners and snowshoe tours at the top of Aspen Mountain with our partner, ACES. My personal favourite is the Breathtaker Alpine Coaster in Snowmass. You get to zoom through the snowy forest in a coaster cart.
Where do guests stay? Limelight Aspen in the downtown core of Aspen is walking distance to the gondola. Limelight Snowmass is a brand new resort in the Base Village core of Snowmass, with ski-in, ski-out access and lots of options for shopping and dining. When’s the best time to come? We’re busy over the usual holiday periods, including Christmas and New Year and over the US school spring break. But come anytime because to be honest, it’s always going to be significantly less busy than any other major resort in Colorado.
Gre at f glam o our r
Travel stats From Los Angeles pick up an internal flight to Aspen Airport; flight-time is approximately two hours. Aspen is the only slopeside airport in North America and guests can transfer to Aspen in under ten minutes and to Snowmass in 20. Most lodges offer free airport transfers and there are free buses between mountains and towns. Guests do not need to hire a car.
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Soaking up the sun in Val d'Isere.
Val d’Isère, France Val d’Isère is one of the most popular resorts in Europe and with good reason. The area offers high quality, snow-sure slopes for everyone, from beginner to veteran, and some of the most varied and challenging pistes in the Alps. Snow cover is reliable throughout a long season and is backed up by the largest snow-making facility in Europe. Val d’Isère is a favourite destination for Virginie Charlès and family.
Why Val d’Isère? The resort is quite high, at 1,850m, so you’re pretty much guaranteed snow all year long. In the summer you can ski on the glaciers at 3,197m. It’s a resort where you’ll find some of the fastest ski slopes in the world - think World Cup and Olympic standard. The resort also borders a national park, perfect for long snow-shoe walks. And the village of Val d’Isère is very cute, with lots to do in the evening.
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When did you start skiing in France? I’m French, I started skiing in my 20s and these days I ski in France at least twice a year. I don’t have a huge experience of ski destinations outside of the Alps, but for me, French resorts stand out for their size as they often interconnect with one another. Val d’Isère, for example, in connected to another resort called Tignes, so with one ski pass you have access to 300km of ski runs and 90 lifts. You could spend a couple of weeks here and still discover new pistes you’ve not tried before!
holidays. Group lessons are great for children who will enjoy the social aspect and will have fun making friends. For adults, group lessons are great but if you splash out on a private lesson you will progress much faster. Either way, the quality of the teaching we’ve always found to be excellent.
Is the resort suitable for beginners? There is terrain for everyone. Experienced skiers will appreciate the amazing snow conditions and fast slopes, as well as the beautiful off-piste scenery. There are also plenty of green and blue beginner slopes.
When are the best times to ski? Val d’Isère has one of the best snow records around, making it a safe bet for snow throughout the entire season, which stretches from the end of November to the first week in May. The village is located at 1,850m, with the upper slopes at an altitude of nearly 3,400m beneath the summit of Pointe du Montet. The top lift in Tignes on the Grande Motte reaches 3,456m.
Top tips for families new to the area? Make sure you book lessons in advance, don’t wait until you arrive at the resort as you might find it difficult to find a course, especially during the European school
And what about gear hire? It’s all very easy and often your hotel will be able to organise this for you. This way you’ll have everything ready and waiting for you in your locker ahead of your arrival.
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Left - The Charlès children ready to hit the slopes Below - Charlie, Hannah and a knock-out view
Fa famb for ilies
What can you do off the slopes? A great experience for animalloving children is to go dog sledding - contact Stephane (stephane-ttmushing@sfr.fr) for a ride across the mountain trails. For a more unusual treat, book a seat on one of the huge slope grooming machines and find out how they prepare the ski runs overnight. Where’s good to eat? There are heaps of amazing places to eat, this is France, after all! Our family loves a good lunch on the slopes or a dinner in the village in the evening. When you’re on the slopes, no stay in Val d’Isère is complete without a stop at La Folle Douce for a fun evening with live music. Also, stop for a drink at Le Blizzard and then head to La Grande Ours for a fine dining experience. And finally, my top
recommendation is l’Arolay, a hidden gem of a restaurant tucked away near the Le Fornet cable car and accessible both on skis or on foot. It serves a variety of Savoyard specialities such as cheese fondue, raclette and tartiflette with fantastic views from the terrace over the river and mountains. What are your best memories of skiing here? We have this little ritual where at the end of the day we wait at the top of the mountain in a small hut, sipping a hot chocolate and waiting for the ski lifts to stop for the day. We watch the sun-set over the Alps and once we can see that the slopes are free of the last few skiers, we put our gear back on and ski full-blast all the way down to the village.
WE SIP HOT CHOCOLATE, WATCH THE SUN-SET OVER THE ALPS, AND THEN BLAST DOWN THE EMPTY SLOPES TO DINNER IN THE VILLAGE
Where will you be skiing this year? Val d’Isère! We’ve tried other resorts over the last couple of years but I’m really looking forward to coming back. It’s definitely my favourite place to ski. Travel stats To reach Val d’Isère, you can catch a train to the nearest large town of Bourg Saint Maurice and from there it is a short taxi ride to the village. There is a fast train from Paris to Bourg St Maurice, or catch the Eurostar from London which also runs a direct service during the winter ski season. The closest local airports are Geneva and Lyon. There is no need to hire a car, in fact cars are banned in most of the village and there is extremely limited parking.
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Whistler, Canada Whistler-Blackcomb is North America’s largest ski resort. Think three glaciers, 37 lifts, 200 marked trails and a mindboggling 3,300 hectares of skiable terrain. Kristin Westlake has been skiing with her family in Whistler for a decade
Why Whistler? It’s a longer season, running from November to the end of May, it’s bigger than anything in Japan and all but the very biggest inter-linked resorts in Europe, it’s super-easy for English-speakers, and the lift line etiquette is better than in Europe! The village is also relatively low so there is no chance of altitude sickness. Whistler has an amazing ski school for kids and there are loads of other activities as well as skiing. Plus, there’s a huge variety of places to eat and a really gorgeous village.
OFF THE SLOPES, DOG-SLEDDING
When did you start skiing here? My husband’s been coming since 2001 and myself since 2010. All of our kids learnt to ski or board here - they’re now 26, 22, 13 and six and are all beating mum and dad down the black runs these days! The ski schools here are excellent. There’s a variety of beginner terrain but the ski instructors get the kids up to the top of the mountain very quickly. The Magic Castle on Blackcomb and the Tree Fort on Whistler have been built specifically for kids to enjoy and include slippery slopes. My tip would be to use Blackcomb ski school for an easier drop-off and pick-up and slightly less crowding. What about accommodation? There are two mountains, Whistler and Blackcomb, and options include Whistler Village near the Whistler gondola, the Upper Village - which is nearer to Blackcomb, or Creekside which has its own lift access to Whistler. I would recommend ski-in, skiout at Blackcomb as it’s quieter than being right in the middle of Whistler village, it’s walking distance to Blackcomb ski school and it has good access to the new Blackcomb gondola which has shorter lift lines.
Pe begrfect fo inn r ers
IS A FAVOURITE GORGEOUS DOGS, FRIENDLY GUIDES AND STUNNING TERRAIN MAKE THIS A TRULY MAGICAL EXPERIENCE
What are your tips for families new to the slopes? Book lessons for everybody. Learning to ski on your own is no fun at all and the instructors here tend to be pretty sensational. For best value for mums and dads, get a group of four adults together, but remember to book well in advance. Any must-do activities away from the slopes? Dog-sledding is a favourite. I can recommend Canadian Wilderness
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Adventures in Callaghan Valley, who offer a shuttle service to Whistler village. They have gorgeous dogs, friendly guides and the stunning terrain makes this a truly magical experience. Zip lining in the snow is also amazing. There’s a thrilling boardwalk high among the fir trees with several fast ziplines over Fitzsimmons Creek. It’s tons
of fun for ages six and up. There’s also plenty of snowmobiling action; try Cougar Mountain for more sedate family fun, or wannabe sled-heads should head to Pemberton and book a day out with Broken Boundary Adventure Company who will take you into the backcountry at speed.
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Where’s good to eat? For mountain lunches, book at Steeps on Whistler mountain for fine, on-mountain dining the short-rib poutine is to die for. A good Blackcomb option is to ski down early and head to Portobello in the Fairmont Chateau - this way you avoid the crowds in the mountain restaurants and get better food for the same price. In the evening, almost all the restaurants are family-friendly. Our own favourites include Sushi Village - you can’t book for groups under six people so arrive before opening and join the queue, and don’t miss the sukiyaki. Teppan Village is loads of fun, with Japanese chefs preparing
fresh dishes in front of you - the local salmon is a must-try. Hy’s Steak House is great for hearty ‘apres’ meals. For an adult night out, book a sitter and head to Bearfoot Bistro, starting off in the Ketel One vodka room, the coldest ice bar on earth. Ask the sommelier for a cellar tour and order the tableside ice cream for dessert. Rimrock, Araxi and Red Door are also highly rated fine-dining options. Any must-pack items? Ski gear prices are comparable to anywhere else in the world. There are at least two ski shops that offer year-on-year tradeins for kids gear - buy new and return the items the following
year for a 50% discount on the next lot of new stuff. Whistler Village Sports also offers good quality second-hand kids’ items. And check out the Whistler Outlet Store in Squamish on the way up from Vancouver, as they offer some good discounts. Arc-teryx, a cult local brand that we use exclusively, has a factory outlet in Vancouver. Any other advice? If you’re renting a car in Vancouver, double-check that it has snow tyres. It’s not compulsory for rental companies to offer this service and over the years a few families have ended up in a ditch on their way up the mountain. We always use VIP Whistler - call and ask for Sean.
Inset - Dad John and Toby rugged-up and ready to go Above - Enjoying the white stuff in Whistler-Blackcomb
Travel stats Cathay Pacific flies direct from Hong Kong to Vancouver International Airport. The flight time is around 12 hours. From Vancouver it is a two-hour drive to Whistler.
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St Anton, Austria St Anton is a village in the Tyrolean Alps. It’s often referred to as the ‘cradle of Alpine skiing’ for its role in inventing the sport. St Anton is frequently listed as one of the world’s top skiing resorts both in terms of skiing available and apres-ski entertainment. The Forster family loves to ski in Austria. Mum Megan explains why What’s the attraction of central Europe? From a purely practical perspective, now that the kids are experienced enough to ski with us, we try and choose destinations where great snow is guaranteed and there are there is a good selection of runs to choose from. We head to St Anton because it’s the largest 54 Hong Kong Family Traveller
connected ski area in Austria and it’s also considered one of the snowiest areas. The town itself is gorgeous, as is nearby Lech, which is full of European old-world charm and glamour. Where do you stay? For us, catered chalet accommodation is always a winner. It’s a luxury to have all of your meals organised for you so you don’t have to think about cooking. We usually use expedia.com with varying results. This year the chalet was clean, warm and comfortable and although the cooked breakfast was adequate, we did miss the lashings of unlimited porridge, eggs and bacon that we’d enjoyed at other catered chalets in previous years. The dinners provided as part of a ‘full board’ package are typical Austrian fare - hearty
and warming and served with plenty of wine. My advice would be to do your homework - unfortunately this year dinner was served at a restaurant down the road, so instead of pulling on comfy lounge clothes and settling in for the night, we had to layer-up and head back out to eat. How do the slopes compare with other resorts? We were blessed with plenty of snow and good weather this year. We arrived just after a huge dump and enjoyed a week of pretty much perfect conditions. Of course you won’t get the powder like you get in Japan, but I’m not much of a powder skier anyway. On the downside, there isn’t much in the way of adventure parks for the kids and there wasn’t much opportunity for them to practice
Id imp eal for rov ers
THE DIFFERENCE IN THE KIDS’ SKIING ABILITY FROM THE START OF THE HOLIDAY TO THE END WAS PHENOMENAL
Is the terrain suitable for beginners? If you are a total beginner, there are resorts I would recommend before Lech or St Anton. Lech is a little more intermediate than St Anton, but still not really suitable for a complete beginner. St Anton suits intermediate to advanced level skiers and snowboarders. There are a few beginner slopes at the base of the main ski area, but you’ll need to get your ski legs working pretty quickly if you want to progress past the nursery slopes. If you’re an intermediate skier looking to improve in a short space of time, St Anton is perfect. There are plenty of blue runs with lots of trickier sections to challenge you. My three kids were leaving me behind after the first few days! The improvement in their skiing ability over the holiday was phenomenal. And how was the apres ski? Both Lech and St Anton are filled with bars and restaurants and both resorts ooze charm and old world glamour; it’s easy to see why the rich and famous choose to ski here. Lech especially is absolutely stunning. If you decide to have a day off the slopes, rugging up
Opposite - The ski resort of San Anton, Austria Above - Apres-ski fun in San Anton Left - Dad and the Forster kids enjoying the Austrian mountains
and simply wandering through the town is enthralling. How cold did it get? During the day, temperatures hovered between zero and minus ten degrees. It was warmer on the slopes where there was very little wind and clear skies, so we were lucky. However, it can drop as low as -15 in the town. Is there any action away from the slopes? As a family we do love to spend all available time skiing. However, one afternoon we did hang up our skis for the Audi Ice Driving Experience, which I would absolutely recommend. You get to sit behind the wheel of a luxury vehicle and drive like a lunatic over an ice rink as big as a football field. There is something very thrilling about attempting a 180 degree turn on the ice with your ten-year-old screaming “faster, mum, faster!” as you fishtail out of control, traffic cones scattering in your wake. Any top tips? If you’re travelling in peak season, do your restaurant research and book well in advance. We always book accommodation with laundry facilities so we can pack relatively lightly. If you can, schedule your trip for the second or third week in January to avoid the crowds.
Travel stats Fly to Zurich International airport and there are direct trains from Zurich to St Anton. Lech is a 20-minute drive from St Anton; the Forster family booked a taxi for this part of their journey.
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their tricks and jumps. However, there is a speed check at Lech which was fun. Mind you, it is quite unnerving watching your 11-year-old daughter clock almost 60km/hour!
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JUNGLE JANES Tara J Smyth flew her teen girls to laid-back Laos for a ‘green season’ adventure
I
’ve lived in Hong Kong for more than 20 years, but Laos is a destination that has never really popped up on my radar. But with our girls now in their teens, my husband and I felt a destination slightly off the beaten track was something we could now enjoy as a family. So myself, my husband, 16-year-old Megan and 14-year-old Anna packed our bags, and with only a few loose plans and no set agenda, jumped on a plane. We were expecting adventure and a bit of ‘slumming it’, and we were hoping for stunning scenery, a completely new culture and the discovery of sleepy backwaters of a bygone era. We booked the trip just one week before we flew. I had no idea where to start, so I asked for advice and destination ideas on Facebook Group Hong Kong Family Traveller and was immediately inundated with top tips and an approachable eightday itinerary. There are no direct flights to Laos from Hong Kong so we flew via Bangkok. We took Thai Air and ThaiSmiles going out and ThaiSmiles and Cathay Pacific on the return leg. To be honest, there were
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very few options, so we just took what was on offer on SkyScanner. Visas were also quick and easy; I googled the application form and printed it out as we were too last minute for the online e-visa option. Although the girls’ school holidays coincided with the rainy season - or ‘green’ season as it is sometimes more optimistically described - the weather certainly didn’t put a dampner on our plans. It rained most days, but the passing storms only lasted an hour or so and they generally cleared the air. It also gave us an opportunity
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F E AT UR E to have a massage, go for lunch, or reconvene back at the hotel to make plans for the following day. Temperatures were much cooler than Hong Kong and the dramatic, cloudy skies were a welcome reprieve from the relentless sunshine beating down all day. Travelling at this time of year also meant the country was quiet, activities weren’t booked-up to the hilt and temples weren’t flooded with selfie stick-wielding tourists. We began our adventure in Vientiane, the sleepy capital, and spent two nights there enjoying the delicious food on offer. This was plenty of time to get a feel for the place and to dial our headspace back from the chaos of the Hong Kong protests and onto a more relaxed setting. From Vientiane we travelled 150km north to Vang Vieng by VIP tourist bus, which was perfectly 58 Hong Kong Family Traveller
efficient and comfortable. Vang Vieng has a heap of adventures and offered something for everyone. We ended up spending three days here, hiking, exploring caves, riding giant inner tubes and kayaking down the Nam Song River. Further activities on offer included hot air ballooning, rock climbing, 4WD buggy driving and cycling. We then booked a private driver to venture a further 180km north. Here, we spent a night at Kuang Xi waterfalls, often referred to as the ‘menthol falls’ due to the stunning colour of the water. To be honest, this was a bit of a random stopover. The falls are just 20km from Luang Prabang and most people enjoy a halfday excursion from their Luang Prabang accommodation, but we decided to camp out in the jungle huts around the falls. I loved the back-to-nature feel of the place, but our teenage girls did have very different thoughts! The lack
Above - Kuang Xi waterfalls, Luang Prabang; the girls and dad in a tuk tuk; (below) with mum at the waterfalls
TRAVEL STATS The Smyth family travelled in July. Wet season runs from June through to October. They flew into Vientiane and out of Luang Prabang via Bangkok using a combination of ThaiSmiles, Thai Air and Cathay Pacific, booked through SkyScanner. Transportation was arranged through hotel receptions as they travelled.
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Golden buddhas, temples and monks - soaking up the country's rich culture
of WiFi didn’t help, but I think it was the spiders cooked into our breakfast eggs that was the last straw for them. We were the only people staying in the huts and the village restaurants shut up shop the minute the last tourist bus left at 5pm. Fortunately, we managed to persuade somebody to cook us some food, but it wasn’t exactly the best dish of the holiday and none of us were completely sure what we were eating. It was certainly an adventurous 24 hours, but even if you skip the jungle huts, the falls themselves are a must-see. We then headed into Luang Prabang and checked in for a luxurious final couple of nights. Despite my back-to-basics aspirations, it’s extremely difficult to slum it in Luang Prabang.
There’s a plethora of serene, luxe, heritage-style accommodation with exquisitely dressed staff in monogrammed uniforms proffering lemongrass-scented freshening towels on arrival. I would describe it as chic, Seminyak-style garden villas at Kuta backpacker prices.
FOR THE GIRLS, IT WAS THE SPIDERS IN OUR BREAKFAST EGGS THAT WERE THE LAST STRAW
And so we enjoyed two nights in beautiful Luang Prabang, soaking up the stunning French architecture, hopping from cafe to bar and from temple to temple, people-watching and soaking up the serenity. The highlights of the trip for me were the food in Vientiane, the hiking in Vang Vieng and the stunning waterfalls at Kuang Xi. What did surprise us was how advanced the country was and I must admit we came away feeling we hadn’t really done
anything truly off the beaten track. Shopping for nick-nacks was actually quite expensive and there was nothing in the night markets that we hadn’t already seen over the last 25 years of holidaying in Thailand. If we were to go again, I would love to spend more time exploring the more remote northern areas. However, wet season is not the time to do this as the roads can get quite flooded. For the eight days we had, I’d say our itinerary was perfect.
KID-FRIENDLY RATING For the exciting activities in Vang Viang, I would say children need to be at least six years old and enjoy a bit of adventure. Languid Luang Prabang is not particularly child-friendly and it’s not really kids club territory. While I wouldn’t say “don’t go” with littlies, I would recommend you save Laos for when they’re a bit older.
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TALKING POINT
Camping carry-ons From surviving the Aussie outback to 'cycling through rural China, Hong Kong's international students are turning traditional school camp on its head - and reaping the rewards. Amelia Sewell heads off on their trail
Alexander Bray (second from left) and friends exploring Australia with ESF Island School
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have frequently proclaimed that I would rather chew wasps than go through adolescence for a second time. Once was quite enough; the hormones, the awkwardness, the social uncertainty, the lack of understanding that I really could not pull off a fringe. Total minefield. But, I only half mean it, because some aspects of modern day schooling are pretty sensational and one of those is the much broader access students now have to be able to travel as part of the curriculum.
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And whilst some might write this off as over-privileged twaddle, there are two key reasons why these experiences are important. The first is exposure to ‘the different’, to the cultures and lives that are nothing like our own and appreciating that they are just as relevant. The second is to confront our children with a bit of grit. Particularly in a place like Hong Kong where we are privileged, comfortable and sanitised to within an inch of our lives, breaking away from day to day life to endure an element of challenge and risk can be a hugely beneficial experience.
BREAKING AWAY FROM THE PRIVILEGED DAYTO-DAY LIFE OF HONG KONG CAN BE A HUGELY BENEFICIAL EXPERIENCE
So if you speak to any teachers about the international travel curriculum, the two words that crop up time and again are responsibility and resilience. Resilience is one of Robin Lister’s favourite words. As founding headmaster of Malvern College HK, he is in the process of putting together the school’s foreign expeditions programme. Whilst at Malvern’s UK counterpart, he was in charge of the overseas programme that included students trekking through the jungles of Belize. Here, his pupils are currently a little younger so the initial plans will be mellower, but
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Hong Kong's schools offer a rich menu of out-of-classroom experiences. At Hong Kong Academy, students (pictured here) can choose a country and a philanthropic project to work on
the purpose behind them will remain the same. One of the first Malvern excursions takes place next summer in Northern China, where the students will be cycling through remote, mountainous terrain. “We can’t underestimate the importance of taking children out of their comfort zones,” says Lister. “I’m a strong believer in taking students out of the classroom and putting them in situations where they have to rise up to challenges that come in many varied forms,” he says. This is something that English Schools Foundation (ESF) would
agree with. Last year they rolled out a unique programme called Limitless, a six-week excursion to the Australian outback designed for Year 9 pupils from all seven secondary schools. Taking place during term time, the structure is an escalating series of challenges, culminating in a ten-day self-led expedition. This includes 24 hours in which the pupils are entirely on their own. Last year, 36 pupils took part; this year word has spread and 60 will be going. James Smith, principal of ESF Discovery College, headed up the development of the course. “It’s still part of the curriculum,
but just a different approach,” he explains. “The environment becomes the classroom and the pedagogies are mostly about challenge,” he says. There are a few key elements to the course. One is being in what Smith calls a “dissonant environment”, somewhere that sits in total contrast to urban Hong Kong. Another is the length of time; six weeks gives an opportunity for pupils to really get to grips with the programme. And the third is the fact that the children are completely unplugged. Mobile phones are handed in at the airport (can you imagine the trauma!) and in their
place, the students write letters home to their parents, relaying their experiences and reflecting on their impact. “Students gain hugely from being in an environment where normal rules of engagement are suspended and social structures are turned on their head. Even for those students who are naturally brimming with confidence, they will be challenged in a brand new ways,” Smith says. Resilience – there’s that word again - is also something that Kellett promotes, with their Year 11 Resilience Retreat, a two-day course to help prepare pupils for Hong Kong Family Traveller 61
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whatever their GCSE year (Year 11) might throw at them. But this is just one element of Kellett’s non-classroom based curriculum. From Year 5, they have a fully structured international programme that sees each year group (other than Years 6 and 12) take part in a compulsory trip abroad every year. This starts with the Year 5 trip to Beijing, followed by Thailand (Year 7), Cambodia (Year 8), Mongolia (Year 9), Malaysia (Year 10), and New Zealand (Year 13). In Year 11, students take a language immersion course in China, France, Germany or Spain. For each project, there is a slight shift on the emphasis and purpose but the overall ethos behind Kellett’s international programme is a balance of cultural enrichment and service to others – which is where the ‘responsibility’ element comes in. What exactly the projects involve depends on the location: the trip to Cambodia, sees 12 and 13 year olds learn about the genocide and the lasting impact this has had on the community. Together with an NGO, they then work on a project providing education to children who would otherwise be forced straight into work. In Mongolia, they work on a water filtration project; in Malaysia they take part in reef conservation and support Rohingya refugees. The issues are as varied as they are crucial. These projects are further backed up by the Kellett Cares initiative which continues to fundraise on an annual basis for the communities that the children visit. “What’s really important to us is that you don’t just go in for five days and then forget about it when you come back. Year62 Hong Kong Family Traveller
Top - Hong Kong Academy students get stuck in with a cooking class Bottom - Hitting the water with ESF's Limitless school camp programme
on-year, the children know that they continue to support these communities,” says Matthew Seddon, deputy head of Senior School at Kellett. This idea of legacy ties into the importance of responsible tourism, which should confront any sceptics who view these trips as glorified holidays. Cornel Marais is the coordinator for Learning Outside the Classroom (LOTC)
at Hong Kong Academy and is particularly conscious of this point. “We want to see how we can expose the students to something different than when they just go abroad for a holiday. We need to develop students who have an understanding of the world, who know the impact that they have when they travel,” he says. HKA has a more selective element to their overseas opportunities. Rather than one blanket trip for each year group, they allow students to choose which project they go on - China to work with the giant panda charity, or South Africa to understand rhino conversation, the ivory trade and indigenous tracking methods are just two options. Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and The Philippines are also on the agenda. Another interesting HKA take is the encouragement of students to carve out their own philanthropic interests. Last year, three students had an interest in a Nepalese orphanage and the not-for-profit organisation that provides education for those children. They spoke to faculty leaders at HKA who told them to come up with a proposal for a trip abroad. “It was entirely student initiated. They planned everything themselves. Flights, accommodation, activities, donations. As the teachers we just want along as chaperones,” says Marais. The Canadian International School (CDNIS) has also been quick off the mark when it comes to innovative, experiential learning programmes. “The overall purpose of our Experience Week Programme is to challenge students to push
camp
Alexander Bray is a Year 10 student at ESF Island School. Last year he took part in the school’s ‘Limitless’ programme - six weeks in the Australian outback
Were you worried about being away from home?
their boundaries in positive ways,” says Barbara Dacho, Upper School vice principal. “The tasks involved depend on the destination and the focus of the trip. Activities undertaken range from trekking, exploring meditation, teaching other children, getting involved with building projects, reef conservation and exploring local cultures.” CDNIS students participate in school camps from Grade 3, with a Hong Kong-based, threeday experience up to Grade 6. And then the world opens up in senior school. But whatever the experience and however near or far from home, all children are impacted by what they have achieved. “All students return having overcome a variety of personal challenges,” says Dacho. “And with that comes an increased level of confidence.
“As a staff member who has participated in over a dozen trips, what I enjoy most is being surprised by the quieter students who absolutely thrive when placed in the types of challenging environments that Experience Week provides.” Indeed, whatever the purposes of these school trips – whether they be centered on charity or on challenge – the lasting impact it has on the student is the vital part. A current fashion amongst schools is the use of the phrase ‘global citizens’ - which can sound like empty marketing talk. However, it is no longer sufficient for children to emerge from secondary education clutching just a half-decent set of exam results. Schools know that their responsibility as educators spreads much further than that – both geographically and holistically.
It takes teamwork to build a raft, discover Malvern College Hong Kong students
I was worried about my friendships and not having contact with them for that length of time, and my family, too. In the end it was great though, and it was worth the lack of contact with home to enjoy the full experience.
What was the best thing about the programme? Learning more about myself as a person and also meeting new people. It has shown me who I really am, by myself, but around other people especially.
What would you say to others thinking of going?
MOBILE PHONES ARE HANDED IN AT THE AIRPORT AND STUDENTS EXPECTED TO WRITE LETTERS
You should absolutely do it. You will make new friendships, improve your teamwork skills ahead of exams and beyond, and you will learn more about yourself as an individual and how you relate with other people. It was one of the best times for me to reflect about myself and my life.
HOME TO PARENTS Hong Kong Family Traveller 63
TALKING POINT
Surviving
WELLNESS TRAVEL
Art attack Hong Kong artist Helen Boyd travelled to Siem Reap as ‘artist-in-residence’ for a local Cambodian school.
Left - Helen Boyd (third from right) and volunteers at Changha Primary School, Cambodia Oposite - Beautifying the school with brushes and paints Inset - Helen (right) on her way to the school
I
was invited to Cambodia earlier this year by a not-for-profit organisation that strives to help support Cambodia as the country rebuilds itself. Build Your Future Today Center (BFT) was originally introduced to me by my good friend, Melissa Megan, who is chairperson of BFT Friends of Hong Kong. We’d worked together in recent years using my art to raise funds for charity. BFT provides support in education and health, as well as introducing peace-building
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initiatives and improvements to the livelihoods of Cambodians. BFT Center was initially established in 2006 with the aim of providing opportunities for people who had been living through hardships and poverty. Extreme poverty after the Cambodian civil war led to ill health and a lack of education. I was invited to fly over to Changha Primary School near Siem Reap as their very first ‘artist-in-residence’. My remit was to lead some painting workshops at the school with the children. Changha is one of 50 or so schools that BFT has built and Melissa and her family have regularly visited Cambodia over the last ten years to help build
ART IS FOR EVERYONE, AND RESIDENCES LIKE THESE HELP DISADVANTAGED CHILDREN EXPRESS THEMSELVES
this particular school. During my visit, they were also hoping to paint the water tanks and the school building and we additionally brought along toys and games donated by Hong Kong families. We also erected a donated shade cloth at the school. It was great to spend time with the community of children, teachers and parents of Changha. Art is an interesting medium for communicating with a new community. Painting as a group allows members of the local neighbourhood to work together to improve their environment, but it also fosters a sense of pride and of belonging. Art really is for everyone, and residences like
Siem Reap? Here are Helen’s recommendations Footprint Cafes
these enable artists to help people to express themselves, facilitated of course by the supply of materials, tools and guidance. Having visited Cambodia the previous year, I was excited to return and spend more time there, especially as it involved contributing in such a positive way in my capacity as an artist. In an ‘in-residence’ role, artists generally stay inside the space, which means they are less distracted by the routines of everyday life and can concentrate on the surrounds. We began the visit watching the homeless soccer children practise and the following day we visited BFT’s centre for an introduction to the organisation which was followed up by a visit to the school. It was a hugely enjoyable trip and aside from the creative collaboration, it was really fun eating communally with the local community and seeing the remote Cambodian countryside on the drive to the school. It was great to meet the local BFT representatives who, despite
The group aspires to become the first global chain of social enterprise book-cafes, linking the tourist industry with the local community. Each cafe is developed in line with the company’s three ‘P’s - People, Planet, Profit. They aim to provide local employment, source ethically and locally, and return 100% of net profits as educational or entrepreneurial grants to the local community. Get involved - reserve a table or donate your second-hand books. All children’s and educational books are made available to help students and local education programmes.
Sister Strey Cafe Sister Srey is a social enterprise established in 2012. It supports landmine clearance programme APOPO, a Belgian registered NGO that trains southern giant pouched rats - nicknamed ‘HeroRATs’ - to detect landmines, working alongside the Cambodian Mine Action Centre. The cafe also supports the local rural community by donating lunches to charitable events. And its own staff is supported through university and further education. Get involved - book a table or make a donation directly to APOPO. a complicated history, are kind and resilient. I really enjoyed checking out non-government organisation (NGO) cafes serving fabulous coffee, shopping the local handmade markets, funny tuk tuk rides, astounding temples and of course, the odd pampering spa. I’m hoping to collaborate again with BFT in the months and years to come and hopefully this will result in more artist residences in Siem Reap to continue this work.
Rehash Trash A social enterprise created by NGO Green Gecko Project to support more than 100 former street children and their 30+ families. Rehash Trash is an upcycling workshop that transforms roadside rubbish into accessories and homeware items. Those involved learn a new skill from which they can earn a living and mothers also receive Kymer literacy and basic English classes. The store also runs workshops for visitors. Get involved - head along to the showroom to shop for a gift or donate on a monthly basis and become a Gecko Guardian.
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ART CAMP
Visiting
DIN IN G ADVEN T U R ES
DINING ADVENTURES What’s new Happenings on the foodie scene this winter
JOIN THE CARAVAN Local dromedaries have been enlisted to guide diners on a culinary journey in Oman. Chefs at The Chedi Muscat have concocted a five-course menu for the Caravan of Taste, an event that wends its way around the resort as the sun sets. The food journey embraces dishes from Arabia, India and Japan, to the beat of a drum and the plod of a camel. The evening kicks-off with drinks in the Lobby Lounge Courtyard and it’s then onto the Long Pool for Japanese appetisers in a family-style set-up at the Long Pool’s cabana. This is followed by the Beach Restaurant for seafood and finally the Serai Pool for shisha and dessert. Muscat is the capital of Oman and picturesquely nestled between mountain and ocean, with old forts and flower-filled parks. Its camels are renowned for being some of the more pampered in the region; they are primarily used for breeding, often for the racing industry, while others are just for show.
Hump day in Muscat
TEA AT TIFFANY’S Luxe New York jewellery house Tiffany has opened The Blue Box Cafe in Hong Kong's Tsim Sha Tsui district. This is Asia’s first Tiffany cafe concept and the brand’s second ever cafe outside of New York. Housed in a glass pavilion at One Peking, Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, the space is now serving afternoon tea and other refreshments. There is also a flagship store next to the cafe with a range of home and lifestyle accessories. Tiffany Blue Box Cafe is open 10.30am-9pm, Monday to Sunday.
SUSHI TRAIN Tokyo is host to a ‘Sushi University’ which aims to take the mystery out of Japan’s most renowned culinary dish. The university has been set up by a local travel group that shuttles diners from their hotels to a local chef’s choice restaurant and guides them through a meal. Chefs give a short talk (all translated by an interpreter) and guests will be instructed on sushi etiquette and how to approach the dishes, as well as how the sushi ingredients are skillfully put together and how to match dishes with different sake. The tour is suitable for families. More sushi information can be gleaned online and bookings made at sushiuniversity.jp 66 Hong Kong Family Traveller
Afternoon tea at Tiffany's The Blue Box Cafe in Hong Kong
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DIN IN G ADVEN T U R ES
Waffley good fun at Duck & Waffle Carolynne Dear reviews the latest foodie arrival to land in Hong Kong
I
t hasn’t quite got the views of its London counterpart, but Hong Kong’s Duck & Waffle is a ‘quacking’ addition to upmarket ifc mall in Central. Poor puns aside, the restaurant has nestled itself nicely into the corner of Podium Level 1 where Simply Life used to sit. Long queues deterred me in the first weeks after opening, but now Duck & Waffle seems to have settled into a ‘busybut-accessible’ dining pattern. I popped in for an early dinner on a weekday, and although reasonably booked-up, the friendly waitstaff were still able to accommodate my ‘without reservation’ status. The decor is sleek and cool - I loved the duck-tapestry upholstered chairs - with lots of vibrant reds and greens. This is casual dining done well. The restaurant is famous for, yes, you guessed it, duck and waffle, which I was slightly apprehensive about. A fried egg is served on a confit duck leg on top of a waffle, with a little pot of mustard maple syrup to pour over the whole shebang. But amazingly, and much to my surprise, it works. Obviously this is of no surprise to the restaurant chain, as they’ve been trading on the unusual signature dish for the past seven years. No fewer than one million duck and waffle
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Enjoy a 'quacking' feed at Hong Kong's Duck & Waffle restaurant
QUOTE
DIN IN G ADVEN T U R ES
dishes have been served in that time. One million diners from Hong Kong to Bishopsgate cannot be wrong. It’s a punchy combination and I would highly recommend pairing it with a side of baby leaf salad. The vinaigrette on the salad was perfectly mixed and sharp enough to cut through the richness of the duck and the syrup. For lunch, just these two dishes would be ideal, but as I was dining with family in the evening, we added sharing starters to our order. To be honest, there was nothing I could fault. Everything was nicely presented and full of taste. The boule of house bread with goats cheese and heritage tomatoes was served piping hot from the oven, the grilled 18-hour pork belly incredibly moreish. But surprisingly it was the puy lentils with a sweet onion ragout that was the standout dish for us. It was a generous, creamy portion and if you were looking for a light lunch, it would work perfectly alongside one of the salads or breads.
Right - The duck and waffle Below - Puy lentils was a standout dish
The dessert menu was enticing and I was tempted by the peanut butter and jam ice cream sandwich, but after my yummy duck and waffle, all I could manage was a waddle to the nearest taxi rank. Duck & Waffle, Podium Level 1, ifc mall, Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong.
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GROWN-UP GETAWAYS
The historic 137 Pillars House, Chiang Mai
Teak, tea and time out There’s more to Chiang Mai than night markets, discovers Carolynne Dear on a recent trip to the northern Thai city he congenial clack of mallet hitting ball drifts up from the immaculately manicured croquet lawn, across the verandah of the old teak house and into the sundappled parlour where afternoon tea is being served. All that is missing are a few colonial chaps in pith helmets and the genteel picture of yesteryear would be complete. I’m at 137 Pillars House Hotel in Chiang Mai for a weekend 70 Hong Kong Family Traveller
break of full-luxe relaxation. Freed momentarily from the tyranny of the kids’ weekend sporting fixtures and the ‘joy’ that is Hong Kong’s Kings Park on a Saturday afternoon, I lazily dollop cream onto a second scone and take a refreshing sip of Earl Grey. At just two hours from Chek Lap Kok, the northern Thai city is an easy-to-do getaway if you’re short on holiday leave or just want to step away from Hong Kong for the weekend. The luxe begins as soon as we step off our AirAsia flight.
We are met at the gate, our baggage competently whisked away and we ushered into our airport transfer vehicle, cooling lemon-grass scented towels and water proffered as soon as we sink back into the comfortable leather seats. The hotel is a mere fifteenminute drive from the airport and is located on the eastern - and what used to be the ‘foreigner’ - side of the Ping River. It earned its moniker from the 137 teak posts that were used to elevate the building to protect it from flooding. In
FREED FROM THE TYRANNY OF THE KIDS’ WEEKEND SPORTING SCHEDULE BACK IN HONG KONG, I SIT BACK AND RELAX
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GROWN-UP GETAWAYS
Clockwise from top - The reconstructed front parlor in 137 Pillars House; members of the Gymkhana Club in Chiang Mai at the beginning of the 20th century; a stunning 'green wall' dominates the hotel pool; the welcoming committee at the Gymkhana Club.
Chiang Mai, the importance of a property owner was often measured by the size of their home - the more pillars it had, the more important the owner. We are shown into an elegant suite, complete with rocking chairbedecked verandah, al fresco shower, a stunning claw-foot bath and - joy of joys - a golden cocktail trolley. The sumptuous bed and beautiful furnishings make this one of the most luxurious hotels I’ve had the pleasure of staying in. But 100-odd-years ago, there was no golden drinks trolley and no decadent fixtures and fittings. The teakwood house that forms the focal point of the hotel property was known as Borneo House and it was not a luxury boutique hotel, but the headquarters of the East Borneo Company, one of the first foreign teak trading companies to set up business in Chiang Mai towards the end of the 19th century. At this time, an agreement had been signed allowing foreigners to cut trees for commercial purposes. The highly durable teak-wood that grew in the surrounding forests was in high demand around the world for shipbuilding purposes. And so an adventurous young chap named Louis Leonowens joined the East Borneo Company and opened its Chiang Mai office. (It was interesting to learn that Leonowens’ mother, Anna, was governess to the Thai royal family and it was her that story inspired the 1956 musical The King and I, which was more recently remade as Anna and the King, starring Jodie Foster). When Leonowens first arrived in Chiang Mai in the 1880s, just 50 foreigners were living in the region. The men would spend months at a time, deep in the forests, felling enormous teak trees and floating them down the Ping River, which flowed into the Chao Praya River and on to the shipyards of Bangkok.
GROWN-UP GETAWAYS
The sumptuous suites at 137 Pillars House Hotel
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During World War II, Borneo House was occupied by the Japanese and after the war it was sold to a Scotsman, William Bain, who was the last managing director of the East Borneo Company. His eldest daughter eventually sold the house in 2005 to the Wongphanlert family. It was originally intended to be used as a private family holiday home away from the bustle of Bangkok, but the Wongphanlert family eventually decided to open it as 137 Pillars House Hotel. The house, which prerenovation was known as Baan Dam, or Black House, due to the darkened hue of its weathered teak wood walls, was located in the Wat Gate (or ‘foreigner’) district of the city. By the early 2000s, was derelict and overgrown, but Panida Wongphanlert, who had initiated the family’s holiday home project, could see its potential. She enlisted the help of Chiang Mai University’s architecture department to help with the renovation and the house was ‘lifted’ from its original location and carefully moved to the middle of the current property. The crumbling pillars were replaced, original fretwork was painstakingly repaired or recreated and one ceiling completely replaced to allow for air conditioning units. Old relics uncovered during the renovation are today displayed in a small museum beneath the house. The building is now home to two restaurants and Jack Bain’s Bar, named after the son of William Bain. “Jack was a colourful character,” general manager Anne Arrowsmith explains as we sit sipping cocktails in his bar on our first evening. “His daughter still lives locally and generously shared stories of her father with us.”
GROWN-UP GETAWAYS
Tea on the terrace overlooking the croquet lawn and pool
The mixologist has done a fine job of evoking the past with a cocktail list that includes The Teak and The Legend of Pillar, both of which combine Asian flavours - think cinnamon, nut mage and ground sugar cane along with plenty of malt whiskey as a nod to Bain’s Scottish heritage. And surrounded as it is by all of this rich history, the hotel has now launched a Tales and Trails of the Teak Wallahs tour in collaboration with local historian Frans Betgem. The tour lasts a full day and takes in both Chiang Mai and the nearby old teak town of Lampang. It is a completely
fascinating insight into life in colonial times. Betgem is a Dutch national who has been living in Chiang Mai since the 1990s and has become something of a local expert on the teak wallahs of the 19th and 20th centuries. He is inspiringly enthusiastic about his subject matter and a neverending seam of historical facts and figures. On our first morning, after a filling al fresco hotel breakfast of cereals, eggs and homemade French pastries, we begin the tour with a peek inside one of the most eclectic museums I have ever visited. It was opened by Jack Bain inside nearby Wat
Ket in 1999 and is crammed with a diverse and slightly quirky array of items, from old Thai ceramics and silverware, to historical clothing and a wide collection of old black-and-white photographs of the teak era. We then move on for refreshments at the local Gymkhana Club. Back in the day, it was joked that where there was a handful of Englishmen, there was a club. This particular gathering was started by a group of teak workers including Louis Leonowens and consul-general William Alfred Rae Wood and is today the oldest sporting club in Thailand. We receive a warm
welcome from current club committee members Paul Drew and Non Nontalee Ya-Anan. “I first came to the club to watch the Cricket Sixes in 2003,” explains Drew over a cool drink. “And it was the reason I chose to move to Chiang Mai three years ago. It’s a very special place and these days has a truly international membership. We provide free sports coaching to local children and if you’re a visitor to the area, you’re very welcome to drop in.” What once was a polo field is now a shady golf course, huge, hundred-year-old rain trees spreading their boughs luxuriously over the links. Hong Kong Family Traveller 73
GROWN-UP GETAWAYS
Shopping Chiang Mai's bustling night markets is a must for any visit
THE HOTEL AT A GLANCE The club also hosts the biggest international amateur cricket sixes in the world, which visitors can watch for free. Next year’s event starts on March 31 and lasts for a week. Having bid our farewells, our next stop is the former British consul-general’s private home. The riverside property now stands opposite The Consul Garden’s Restaurant at the edge of a magnificent green lawn. The house itself is an interesting insight into the graceful, colonial life led back in the day of the teak wallahs. We then hit the road out of Chiang Mai and on to the pretty river town of Lampang, a journey of around an hour. Here we stop for a Lanna-style lunch by the river, trying to imagine the gentle waters crowded with giant teak logs jostling their way to Bangkok, before trotting our way across town in a traditional pony-and-gig to the 74 Hong Kong Family Traveller
Louis House. This impressive teak building was once the former office of the Louis Leonowens Company, another teak trading company that Leonowens set up after leaving the East Borneo Company. We also take a look at a breathtaking Burmese temple, glittering brightly against the storm clouds that are beginning to gather over Lampang at the end of a steamingly hot day. Back in Chiang Mai, we shower and head out for dinner at nearby David’s Kitchen to mull over the day’s discoveries. And as I wander across the Ping River on a boutique shopping expedition the following day, I feel I know Chiang Mai just a little bit better than if I had spent the day languishing by the pool or sprawled in the spa. Although fortunately, we still have a day to go…
Thirty suites are set amongst tropical gardens - many of the trees date back to the old Borneo Company trading days. The suites compriseLouis Leonowens Pool Suites, William Bain Suites with private terrace, East Borneo Suites with private terrace and Rajah Brooke Suites which can be interconnected to offer family-size accommodation. Children are welcome at the hotel. Facilities include an outdoor pool, Nitra Spa & Wellness, gym, croquet lawn, Jack Baines Bar, Palette Restaurant (western cuisine) and the Dining Room (Lanna and Thai cuisine). Hong Kong Family Traveller was a guest of 137 Pillars House Hotel. For more information about the hotel, see 137pillarschiangmai.com
COMPETITION TIME Congrats to all our autumn winners!
Lightfoot Travel hosted a ‘wellness travel’ morning tea for Hong Kong Family Traveller readers in September. Guests learned more about family friendly wellness travel options from professional yogi and Lightfoot’s Head of Wellness, Christina Mullett. Guests were also invited to enter a special draw for a lucky door prize - the lucky winner walked away with a three-night Family Wellness package for two adults and two children at Amatara Wellness Resort in Phuket.
Congratulations to Bhwana Shetty who scooped a night at Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel. Well done to Melanie Broomfield, Charlotte Douglas and Tim Felton who won HK$1,000 vouchers for Ciao Chow family restaurants in Hong Kong. And Ruth Benny, Arti Mirchandani and Kim Bongiorno all won a HK$250 dining voucher at Hong Kong Pizza Express restaurants.
For more chances to win, join our Facebook Group, Hong Kong Family Traveller, or sign-up for our Newsletter at hongkongfamilytraveller.com
Hong Kong Family Traveller 75
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76 Hong Kong Family Traveller
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Hong Kong Family Traveller 77
H K T RAVE L L I NG M UM
Case in point Packing dramas are never far away for our frazzled mum
Y
ou know you’ve overpacked when your baggage comes to 127kgs at check-in. To be fair, I was travelling with four children, it was Christmas and we were off to the freezing plains of rural southwest England. “One hundred and twenty seven kilos?” repeated my patently perplexed husband, who had joined us straight from the office and had therefore not been privy to the ‘big pack’ that had taken place earlier that day. “That’s right, sir,” beamed the Cathay lady. “127 kilos!” Thank goodness for my husband having ‘status’ with the airline or we’d have been struggling to afford a turkey that year. “Oh,” I cried as the baggage was efficiently weighed and labelled. “And I also have this!” I added, dragging a Mahjong table out from behind the remaining suitcases still sitting on one of the three trolleys. I think an expletive may have been muttered darkly at this point, but not by the lovely Cathay lady who found it all hilarious. What can I say? Board games and Christmas, they go hand-in-hand, and I’m not going to let 10,000 miles get in the way of me and a winning run of bamboo. You see, despite living away from home for over 20 years and having circumnavigated the world many times, I am still unable to pack. Compactly, that is. I understand the concept, you think about what you might need, write a list, fold it all up and place it neatly in an appropriately sized case. 78 Hong Kong Family Traveller
However, it all goes wrong for me at the last minute. Six sundresses for a three-night getaway in Phuket? What if one gets dirty, what if I don’t fancy wearing another? Best to play it safe and pack six more, plus accessories, a couple more raffia beach bags, another pair of wedges (you can never have
But I think I know where I might get my packing (in)abilities from. On our first Christmas back in the motherland as a family in 2010 we were greeted by a practically life-size remote control Ferrari sitting under my parents’ Christmas tree. It was for my twoyear-old son. My mother was just so excited to have us all home.
HK Travelling Mum lives in Hong Kong with her four travelloving children and a weary husband
too many)... Oh and gym gear, because you never know when a sudden desire to tuck away ten kilometres in the hotel gym might hit, do you? Better to be safe than sorry. A couple of pairs of asics should do it... And coming home to Hong Kong it’s even worse. It is absolutely incredible how a quick trip to Westfield can totally fill up your case. Sometimes forcing you to buy an additional case, which is why our storage room at home looks like Chek Lap Kok’s freight bay. We have more suitcases than a TUMI factory outlet.
“How on earth are we going to get that back?” moaned my depressingly practical husband. “Oh just put it in the overhead!” trilled my mother. And she was right. It absolutely did fit - as long as we sat with our hand luggage wedged under the seats in front of us for the 12-hour flight. Yes, the bit of the plane where our legs were supposed to go. Luckily the children were quite short at the time. The go-kart, of course, was a whole other story. And I must admit that my packing deficiencies have ‘history’. As a 20-something backpacker, I left Heathrow with a shiny new 50
litre North Face pack - and returned 12-months later with a battered 50 litre North Face pack, two bin-bags and a Bali-bought ‘Quiksliver’ holdall. But at 21 you can get away with pretty much anything, even a couple of black bin sacks and a mis-spelt surf bag. And I’m proud to say the incompetent packing gene lives on into the next generation. Preboarding school, I handed the Blonde Child a large case and carte blanche to pack whatever she liked. But on arrival at the school, it turned out she had, quite literally, packed everything. Every single book on her bookshelf (even the overdue ones from her old Hong Kong school - note to self, must take those back), an assortment of sentimental mugs, her old school bag, a netball, three sets of fairy lights, an extension cable (“I don’t know where the plug socket’s going to be,” she pointed out quite reasonably), two packets of chalk (although she’d forgotten the Typo chalkboard) and several H&M bikinis (my stern talk about English weather had obviously had little impact). I was surprised not to see the cat leap out. I’d like to think that this Christmas will be different. But as I approach middle-age, I am no longer under any illusions that my packing habits will dramatically change come January 1 2020. And so, like wrinkles and wobbly bits, I have given into the inevitable. Where normally I would have asked for a spa voucher or perfume, my Secret Santa request this year is for a 28” Samsonite Spinner. At my age, bin bags are no longer an ‘edgy’ look.
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