april / may 2020
HK$35/S$6/US$4 Printed in Hong Kong
Big adventures for little people
Fishy business Asia’s best family dive spots
Wind power Sailing the kids around the world
WIN! A family holiday in the Maldives!
Stormy seas ahead Inspiration for travels post-coronavirus
Kia ora!
Fun on the road in New Zealand Asia Family Traveller 1
Relax & dive Sorido Bay Resort Raja Ampat A real home far away from home. One of Indonesias most remote & comfortable dive resorts. Sorido Bay resort is for the discerning traveler. It is not just another dive resort. The resort offers a selected and personalized service and is nestled in the lush green jungle overlooking a kidney-shaped lagoon, meters away from the world’s most famous dive site ‘Cape Kri’. Here you will meet people with a passion for Raja Ampat and a passion for sharing it with the most important person of all: you, our guest.
Book your holiday today
www.papua-diving.com 2 Asia Family Traveller
Editor Carolynne Dear carolynne@asiafamilytraveller.com
Art Director Anna Schulteisz anna@asiafamilytraveller.com
Sales & Marketing Manager Enoch To sales@asiafamilytraveller.com
Digital Editor Gayatri Bhaumik hello@asiafamilytraveller.com
Media Representative Chris Ng chrisn123@netvigator.com
Consultant Editor Adele Brunner
Web Design & Technical Support TeamAlfy.com
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Online asiafamilytraveller.com Facebook @AsiaFamilyTraveller Instagram @asiafamilytraveller Twitter @family_kong Asia Family Traveller is published bi-monthly by Penn & Ink Communications Limited. The content provided here is the property of Penn & Ink Communications Limited and no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without permission in writing from the Publisher. While the editors do their best to verify information published, Penn & Ink Communications Limited, its editors and its writers do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. The information provided by Penn & Ink Communications Limited’s contributors do not necessarily reflect the views of the Publisher or the company. The information here is provided in good faith but Penn & Ink Communications Limited bears no responsibility or liability for any recommendations or advice offered.
hello
E DI TO R ' S NOT E
OUR TEAM
from the editor’s desk
W
elcome to our second issue. When we launched earlier this year, we had no idea 2020 would pan out quite how it has. The coronavirus pandemic is wreaking havoc on the travel industry, holiday plans have had to be shredded and many of you will be going through extremely stressful periods of self-quarantine or simply trying to get yourselves and family members to areas of safety or back to home base. And experts are now predicting that this precarious situation could run for many more months. Putting this issue together was, as always, a labour of love. Travel, particularly for expat communities, is what makes our world go round. And it won’t be destroyed by the coronavirus. The travel industry is vast and one of the world’s biggest employers. It will survive to see another day, maybe not this month, maybe not this year, but one day we will all be safe to explore our wonderful world again. So while we certainly don’t advocate travel at this time and fully encourage readers to respect travel restrictions hastily being put into place by many countries around the world, we do want to continue to
bring you exciting, feel-good travel tales. Maybe you won’t be taking a cruise or a dive trip or even a basic holiday - this year. But please take this issue in the manner in which it is intended, to inform and to inspire. Pour yourself a coffee, put your feet up, have a flick through our pages, and we hope that you take away some fabulous family travel ideas for when this situation has become nothing but a bad memory. And above all, stay safe.
Contributors
FRANCES MARCELLIN
MARIANNE ROGERSON
AMELIA SEWELL
Frances is a British journalist based in France. She covers cruise, travel and technology for titles including Britain’s Daily Telegraph, Future Cruise and ZDNet. This issue she discovers the best cruise holidays for kids.
Marianne is a Sydney-based freelance travel writer and blogger at mumonthemove.com. Check-out her fascinating interview with a family who sailed around the world on a yacht.
Amelia is a freelance writer currently based in Switzerland. When she’s not travelling, she can be found talking - and reading. This issue she fills us in on flight hygiene with kids.
Where’s your first port of call after COVID-19? I’d started to plan a family cruise in the South Pacific, so I’d love to pick that holiday project up again. @ fran_in_france
Where will you be heading once the coronavirus is over? I’ve just had to cancel a long weekend in Uluru which is something that has been on my bucket list for years. So that’s going to be the first thing I re-book. @hungrymaz
What’s top of your postpandemic travel hit list? Vienna for the opera, Seville for a girls weekend - and the UK so I can get my highlights done! @bundlesewell Asia Family Traveller 3
CONTENTS
REGULARS On the cover
This issue we bring you a peek at life after COVID-19. We're navigating rough waters at the moment, but at the end lies a world still full of fun and adventure. This is our 'water issue' with heaps of wet and wild stories. 4 Asia Family Traveller
05
In the know
New resort openings and ‘the virus’
14
Reading matter
Inspiration for days at home
16
Hot & happening
Underwater adventures
20
Around-the-world
Travel diary of a mum on the move
56
Talking point
How to travel during the coronavirus
58
Grown-up getaways
Cruising Komodo National Park
64
Expat travelling mum
Life stuck at home base
IN THIS ISSUE April / May 2020
FEATURES 28
Focus
Asia’s best dive resorts
32
Review
Hitting Malaysia’s south coast
34
Home turf
Staycation deals in your backyard
38
Boat breaks
Where to cruise post-COVID 19
44
Setting sail
Yachting adventures with the kids
50
Exploring NZ
5 1
2
Family fun in the Land of the Long White Cloud
3
4
5
Takeaways this issue
A reef in Raja Ampat, Indonesia, boasts the widest variety of fish species counted on a single dive - a massive 374. More on page 30. There’s an association that promotes star-gazing. And it hands out awards - tiny Niue in French Polynesia was a recipient. See page 7. Hand washing kids’ clothes on board a yacht is more efficient with a plunger. It’s all on page 45. Disney Cruise Line is set to open a second resort island in 2022. Construction has started. More on page 6. A plucky reptile has swum 37,000km in the first recorded movement of a sea turtle between Africa and Australia. Take a look on page 12.
Asia Family Traveller 5
Giveaway
WIN!
A family holiday in the Maldives
Kurumba Maldives is offering one lucky winner a three-night stay at its award-winning resort! The prize includes: • Three-nights’ accommodation for two adults and two children under 12 years in a Deluxe Bungalow. • Complimentary breakfast. • Shared speedboat transfer between Velana International Airport and the resort. Kurumba is a Maldivian-owned and managed resort and an idyllic tropical escape. Enjoy endless diving possibilities and fun activities for all ages, including excursions, water sports, diving, spa, renewal of vow ceremonies, culinary events and evening entertainment. The resort is just a short and convenient seven to 10 minute speedboat ride from Valena International Airport. Once you land, your vacation is moments away from starting, and you can be checked-in, with a cocktail in hand on the beach, within 30 minutes. The award-winning Kurumba Maldives offers eight styles of
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accommodation across 180 rooms, including family villas, ideally suited for the summer family holiday season. Dining options are varied, with eight restaurants and 3 bars, and a selection of meal plans to suit all preferences. Whether a memorable family vacation or romantic getaway, the Kurumba Team is on hand to help you plan an unforgettable experience. The prize is available from July 1 2020 onwards. Black out dates run from December 10, 2020, to January 10, 2021. Competition closes May 31. *Please read the full Terms and Conditions when you sign up.
To enter, sign up at asiafamilytraveller.com
TRAVEL NEWS 06
Adopt a clownfish and help boost the fishy population of a Thai marine park
08
The cruise industry has announced a raft of suspensions and rebooking arrangements as it struggles to stay afloat
09
Singapore (pictured) and Hong Kong have drastically ramped up quarantine requirements
Asia Family Traveller 7
I N T H E K NOW
JUST KEEP SWIMMING Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort has launched an ‘adopt-a-clownfish’ programme. The resort’s marine centre currently breeds around ten clownfish babies each month, but the team is hoping to increase that number in 2020. The resort is located within the Hat Noppharat Thara-Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park, a tropical reserve that surrounds the Phi Phi islands. Guests can support the centre’s ecological endeavours by contributing THB 9,000 to choose and name a clownfish. When the
Thailand’s underwater world is a veritable playground
fish is strong enough, it is taken by long-tail boat and released on a coral reef. Each ‘adopting parent’ receives a certificate of appreciation and is named on the donor
recognition wall in the Marine Discovery Centre. Proceeds from the initiative will go towards the centre and its various marine projects. Book a stay at Phi Phi
FLAGSHIP RESORT HEADING TO MAURITIUS
Island Village Resort before October 31 and receive a ten per cent discount, room upgrades and flexible check-in and check-out times. phihiislandvillage.com
DISNEY RESORT IN PIPELINE Disney Cruise Line is to build a new resort on a private island in the Bahamas. Known as Lighthouse Point, the 750-acre resort is expected to open in late 2022 or early 2023. Construction is set to begin this year and artists’ impressions of the resort show
The Lux Collective is set to open Lux Grand Baie Resort & Residences in Mauritius next year. The resort is to become the flagship property for the hospitality group. London-based designer Kelly Hoppen has been tasked with the interiors - think Hoppen’s signature neutral colour palettes and soft textures with wooden accents. The main resort complex will house suites and two-bedroom villas with private pools. Adjacent to the resort will be an additional collection of twobedroom residences with private pools and small kitchens. They will be connected by bridge to the main resort. 8 Asia Family Traveller
Residences are set around the resort’s sheltered beach lagoon. The resort will offer plenty of food and beverage and wellness options, as well as a PLAY Kids Club for children aged three to 11 years. The play space includes an outdoor garden area, an aquatic zone, library, arts and crafts area and an activities programme with kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, beach football and volleyball. Teens aged 12 to 17 have access to STUDIO 17, an adult-free hang out area. Lux Grand Baie Resort & Residences is currently slated to open in the second quarter of 2021.
that it will have bungalowstyle suites, restaurants and entertainment venues, alongside the island’s white sandy beaches. A long pier will allow Disney cruise ships to dock and there will be an adventure camp with trails for visitors to explore. This will be Disney’s second island resort. Castaway Island, also in the Bahamas, was opened in 1998.
+
CHECKING IN
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Stargazing The tiny Polynesian island of Niue has earned recognition from the International Dark-Sky Association (IDA). The organisation works to end light pollution and promote opportunities to see the stars. This is the first time an entire country has been recognised. Niue is one of the least-visited places in the world, with most travellers mostly arriving on the two flights a week from New Zealand. The Grand Ho Tram Resort & Casino in Vietnam has launched an ongoing family staycation package. The 160-hectare resort is located alongside two kilometres of pristine beach at Ho Tram, a two-hour drive from Ho Chi Minh. The resort offers four swimming pools, including two children’s pools, 13 restaurants and bars (with family friendly menus), an outdoor cinema, karaoke rooms, a casino and heaps of beach-based
activities. There’s also mini golf and The Bluffs, a Greg Norman-designed golf course. And of course, there’s a spa. The family package comes with complimentary breakfast for up to two children aged under 12 years and a 500,000 VND food and beverage credit redeemable at any of the resort restaurants. The hotel also offers a complimentary VIP shuttle to/from Ho Chi Minh. thegrandhotram.com
Couch potatoes As more and more countries introduce compulsory quarantine and ‘lockdown’ measures, a raft of museums are opening up online. Google Arts & Culture has teamed with over 2,500 museums and galleries around the world to bring virtual tours and online exhibits to those stuck at home. Venues include London’s British Museum, the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam and New York’s Guggenheim. Go to artsandculture.google.com
- CHECKING OUT Ski school One by one, ski resorts across Europe have closed ahead of the scheduled end of season. However, at time of writing there are a handful of ski areas that remain open. According to media group inthesnow.com, slopes in Finland, Japan, US, Scotland, Canada and Sweden are operational, although presumably only to locals. This year may be out, but it’s never too early to start planning for next season...
DESERT DREAMING Six Senses will be opening a property in the Negev Desert, Israel, in June. Six Senses Shaharut will have 60 suites and villas and plenty of sandy adventures. Start the day with sunrise yoga, take part in hikes and camel treks and finish up with late-night stargazing. Flash facilities include an Earth Lab, camel stables and an open-air amphitheatre. Further activities such as
Aussie koalas overnight camel camping in the desert, jeep safaris and a local Kibbutz tour will also be available. Six Senses spa will be drawing inspiration from the surrounding landscape with a menu of restorative treatments and wellness programmes. Book three consecutive nights or more before August 31 and enjoy a Dusk Camel Trek Experience. Reservations open on June 1.
Five koalas rescued by Sydney’s Taronga Zoo during the Australian bushfire crisis earlier this year have now been released. Four koalas and a new-born joey were set free in KanangraBoyd National Park in NSW last month. The release schedule was expedited due to the coronavirus crisis. Conservationists have fitted the koalas with radio-tracking devices for research purposes.
Asia Family Traveller 9
I N T H E K NOW
STAYCAY AND PLAY
Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings has announced a voluntary temporary suspension of all cruise voyages for Norwegian Cruise Line, Oceania Cruises and Regent Seven Seas Cruises. “With the COVID-19 coronavirus impacting communities around the globe, we have enacted a voluntary temporary suspension of cruise voyages,” said president and chief executive officer of Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings, Frank Del Rio. “We understand the inconvenience that this disruption may cause our guests and travel partners during these quickly evolving and challenging times, and we appreciate their understanding.” Guests are asked to contact their travel agent or cruise line for more information. All guests
Photo courtesy of Ruth Peterkin
I N T H E K NOW
CRUISE SUSPENSIONS
on impacted voyages will receive a 125% refund of the fare paid in the form of a future cruise credit, which can be applied to any future cruise until December 31 2022. Alternatively, a 100% refund of the fare will be reimbursed within 90 days of
guests’ request. Meanwhile, Royal Caribbean has also voluntarily suspended sailings worldwide until May 12. Guests are being offered a 125% Future Cruise Credit for use on trips before December 31 2021. The credits will be
automatically issued by April 13 via email. Alternatively, guests can request a cash refund and are being given until December 31 2021 to make the decision. To start the refund process, contact Royal Caribbean.
NEW DEVELOPMENT IN RED SEA FOUR-ISLAND RESORT PLANNED FOR MALDIVES
Saudi Arabia will be opening a luxury island destination on its Red Sea coastline. Named AMAALA, the island is located in the Prince Mohammed bin Salman Nature Reserve. It will include 2,500 hotel keys and more than 800 residential villas, apartments and estate homes. In addition, there will be fine dining and wellness and recreation venues and more than 200 high-end shops and boutiques. AMAALA will be divided into three communities, Triple Bay, Coastal Development and The 10 Asia Family Traveller
Island. Triple Bay will offer an holistic wellness retreat, medical facilities and integrated sports and entertainment venues. Coastal Development is to be promoted as a hub of contemporary art in the Middle East. And The Island will host an art community including a contemporary art museum and academy and an artists’ village with working studios, shops and galleries. There will also be an Arabic botanical garden. AMAALA will be rolled out in three stages before 2030.
A ‘super resort’ across a series of islands in the Maldives is set to open later this year. Fari Islands, The Maldives, will be located over four islands and will include a marina, a beach club, boutique shops and a variety of food and beverage outlets. Guests will be free to move across all four islands. Hospitality companies Capella Hotels & Resorts, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company and Patina Hotels & Resorts will manage the properties. The Fari Islands are located in the North Male Atoll, which is a 50-minute speedboat ride from Male International Airport. The project is being led by
Pontiac Land, a Singaporebased luxury property developer. The group will be collaborating with awardwinning architects and designers to develop the resort. Capella Hotel Group, also based in Singapore, will be one of the hospitality groups opening in the Fari Islands. Its property, Patina Maldives, will be the first hotel to launch there. The hotel is slated to open towards the end of the year and has been designed by Brazilian architect Marcio Kogan. It will offer 90, one-, two- and three-bedroom beach and water villas, and 20 Fari Studios.
Singapore shut its borders indefinitely to short-term visitors last month in an effort to contain the rapidly spreading coronavirus. All visitors were banned from entering or transiting through the city state. Travel restrictions were also tightened for work pass holders. Exceptions were being made for essential workers including those in the healthcare and transport industries. The added measures were introduced amid a sharp increase in case numbers. Those allowed to enter Singapore were being issued with Stay-Home Notices (SHNs), which require arrivals to selfquarantine for two weeks. Strict penalties were in place for those who didn’t comply. After a surge in coronavirus case numbers, Hong Kong’s
government also took the decision to close all its borders to non-residents. Starting from midnight on March 25, non-residents, including transit passengers, were banned from entry into Hong Kong. Travellers from mainland China, Macau and Taiwan were allowed to enter the city, as long as they had not travelled anywhere else in the previous two weeks and subject to quarantine orders. Macau announced that Hong Kong residents would have to quarantine in Macau for 14 days if they wished to visit. All arrivals into Hong Kong were being issued with tracker bracelets to ensure they also comply with the mandatory 14-day self-quarantine period. Travellers had to provide details to authorities of where they will be spending this time.
I N T H E K NOW
SINGAPORE SHUTS BORDERS TO TOURISTS
The government had also introduced charges of HK$200 per day for bed and board in quarantine facilities in a bid to
prevent abuse of the system. For regularly updated travel information, see iatatravelcentre.com
Asia Family Traveller 11
I N T H E K NOW
TAKE ME THERE The idyllic Radhanagar Beach on Havelock Island, Andaman and Nicobar Islands, has been named best beach in Asia in a global poll. Visitor ratings were gathered by TripAdvisor and the results announced as the annual Travellers’ Choice Beach Awards. Radhanagar Beach, also known locally as ‘Number 7 Beach’, is located on the western coast of Havelock Island and in 2004 was also named Best Beach in Asia
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by Time magazine. The TripAdvisor results are based on the quality and quantity of traveller reviews over a 12-month period. The overall winner of the world’s best beach was Brazil’s Baia do Sancho, taking the top spot for the second year running. Agonda Beach in India, Ngapali Beach in Myanmar, Nacpan Beach in the Philippines, and Kelingking Beach in Bali also made the Asian top five.
T H A I L AND Asia Family Traveller 13
I N T H E K NOW
TURTLE TIME Yoshi the loggerhead turtle has popped up in Western Australia following an epic 37,000km swim from South Africa. Dodging plastic pollution, fishing gear and boats, Yoshi has completed what is believed to be the first recorded movement of a sea turtle between Africa and Australia. Yoshi was rescued by Cape Town’s Two Oceans Aquarium 20 years ago after a Japanese fishing crew found her with a damaged shell. Two years ago it was decided the time was ripe for her to return to the ocean and in December 2017 she was fitted with a satellite tag and released 30 nautical miles off Cape Town. As Yoshi headed across the Indian Ocean for Australia, the aquarium contacted the WA Government and Australia-based scientists are now tracking her progress. She is currently just off the Pilbara Coast near Point Samson. It is hoped that she will nest next year or the year after.
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Photo courtesy of Two Oceans Aquarium
AUST RAL I A
Asia Family Traveller 15
READING MATTER
Travel tales
Inspiration for isolation. Live life vicariously through these new releases
Saint X Alexis Schaitkin Claire is seven when her collegeage sister Alison vanishes from a luxury resort on the Caribbean island of Saint X during a family holiday. Several days later, her body is found in a remote spot on a nearby cay. Two local men are arrested. But the evidence is slim and they are released. Years later, travelling into New York City in a cab, Claire recognises the name on the cabbie’s licence as one of the men suspected of the murder. The fateful encounter sends Claire on a dogged pursuit of the truth. As Claire shadows the man, an unlikely intimacy develops between them.
For parents
Anna K Jenny Lee
The Flatshare
Girl, Woman, Other
The Jetsetters
Beth O’Leary
Bernadine Evaristo
Amanda Eyre Ward
Tiffy Moore needs a cheap flat, fast. Leon Twomey works nights and needs cash. So, without meeting, Tiffy moves into his one-bedroom flat. She works during the day, and has the run of the place at night while Leon goes to work. They’re sharing a bed, but they’ve never met. Their friends think they’re crazy and it looks like they might be proved right when obsessive ex-boyfriends, demanding clients at work and wrongly imprisoned brothers enter the fray. Will their flatshare last? And will they ever meet?
Girl, Woman, Other follows a cast of 12 characters on their personal journeys through England, from Newcastle in the north to Cornwall in the south, from the beginning of the twentieth century to the teens of the twenty-first. Each chapter follows the life of one of the 12 characters as they navigate the world. Although each character has their own chapter, their lives intertwine in numerous ways, from friends and relatives to chance acquaintances.
Described as ‘dysfunctional family goes away together on a Mediterranean cruise’, there’s not much not to love about this book. When septuagenarian Charlotte Perkins wins a ‘Become a Jetsetter’ contest, she and her troubled family spend ten days travelling sundrenched Europe on an over-the-top cruise ship. Inevitably, long-buried family secrets come to the surface and old wounds are reopened. A delicious, page-turning novel examining the pleasures and perils of family and how we navigate the wild seas of adulthood.
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The American answer to Crazy Rich Asians, Anna K tells the tale of the dizzying New York Upper East Side - home to privilege, partying and scandal. Anna K is a beautiful, rich and popular girlfriend, daughter and student. But a chance encounter at Grand Central Station with playboy Alexi ‘Count’ Vronsky changes everything. Anna knows she has to avoid Alexi, but fate has other plans and she finds it impossible to resist him. And she suddenly finds herself ready to risk everything she has to be with him… Perfect escapism from the rigours of home-schooling, selfquarantine and current world events.
of the k o o B month
David Attenborough Maria Isabel Sanchez Vigara
The Ballad of Songbirds and Snakes Suzanne Collins The prequel to The Hunger Games. It’s the morning of the reaping that will kick off the tenth annual Hunger Games. Eighteen-year-old Coriolanus Snow is preparing his one shot at glory as a mentor in the Games. The mighty house of Snow has fallen on hard times and its fate now rests on Coriolanus and the slim chance that he will be able to mentor the winning tribute. The odds are against him and he finds he needs to weigh his need to follow the rules against the desire to survive no matter what.
Discover the life of David Attenborough, the inspirational broadcaster and conservationist. David grew up in Leicester in the UK on the campus of a university where his father was a professor. As a child, he spent hours in the science library, collating his own specimens and creating a mini animal museum. At university he studied science and zoology but wanted more than anything to be close to the animals he was studying. Filled with quirky illustrations and loads of extra facts at the back, David Attenborough is an inspiring book for kids.
Fantastically Great Women Who Saved the Planet Kate Pankhurst
The Highland Falcon Thief MG Leonard and Sam Sedgman Harrison Beck is reluctantly joining his travelwriter Uncle Nat for the last journey of the royal train, The Highland Falcon. As the train winds its way to Scotland, a priceless brooch goes missing. Suspicions and accusations run rife amongst the passengers and Harrison begins to investigate. Can he solve the mystery of the jewel thief and catch the culprit before they reach the end of the line? A fast-paced and fun story, packed with illustrations and clues with plenty of information for young readers to help Harrison solve the mystery.
LANDMARK PRINCE’S Shop 326-328, 3/F Landmark Prince’s Building 10 Chater Road, Central Tel: 2522 1785
ifc MALL Shop 3092C, Podium Level 3 8 Finance Street, Central Tel: 2813 2770
Yes, author Kate is a descendant of Emmeline Pankhurst, founder of the UK suffragette movement. Here, she has put together a ‘smart, informative, inclusive and accessible’ book about trail-blazing women. Tackle the plastic problem with Gambian activist Isatou Ceesay by recycling waste into beautiful objects. Marvel at the intelligence of chimpanzees with primatologist Jane Goodall. Find out why it’s important to shop fair trade and cruelty free with The Body Shop founder Annita Roddick. Written with hope and encouragement, this book shows that actions both big and small can help save the world.
EXCHANGE SQUARE Shop 305-07 One Exchange Square Central Tel: 2542 1133
LYNDHURST TERRACE Shop 1, G/F, 46 Lyndhurst Terrace Central Tel: 2970 3999
THREE PACIFIC PLACE Shop 4, Level B3 Three Pacific Place Wan Chai Tel: 2997 3018
TIMES SQUARE Shop 925, 9/F Times Square Causeway Bay Tel: 2521 1649
Starstreet Precinct Guidebook Pick up a copy of this family-friendly guide to Hong Kong’s Starstreet Precinct in Wan Chai district. Over the years, the neighbourhood has evolved from a quaint landmark into an eclectic hangout hotspot. Star Street, Moon Street, Sun Street, St Francis Yard and Wing Fung Street make up this funky centre to Wan Chai, an area which these days is stuffed with cafes, restaurants, bars, galleries, boutique fashion and home design stores. The precinct has now launched its first official guidebook. Grab a copy from around Three Pacific Place and discover walking routes, restaurant guides and a ‘Family Fun’ round-up on shopping, sweet treats and child-friendly eats. The book is made of FSC-certified paper and contains a miniature pop-up Starstreet Precinct scene. And what’s more, it’s free!
REPULSE BAY G/F, Shop G107C-D The Repulse Bay Arcade Repulse Bay Tel: 2750 1136
DISCOVERY BAY Shop 104B, Block A 1/F, DB Main Plaza Lantau Island Tel: 2987 1373
FESTIVAL WALK Shop UG-46 80 Tat Chee Avenue Kowloon Tong Tel: 2808 1901
www.bookazine.com.hk Asia Family Traveller 17
READING MATTER
Great reads for kids
H OT & H A PPE NI NG
In the swim Grab your snorkel for our round-up of Asia's top fish-friendly viewing spots
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H OT & H APPE NI NG
GILI ISLANDS, INDONESIA The Gilis are a group of three tiny islands - Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air. These picture perfect, palm-fringed isles are located just off the coast of Lombok in Indonesia. There is no motorised transport on the easy-going, laid-back islands. The gentle ocean currents and mostly good visibility make them a great spot for beginner divers and snorkellers. Expect to see lots of turtles, as well as reef sharks and manta rays at certain times of the year. The Gilis are a fairly reliable location
for diving year-round, although visibility can be reduced in December and January when there is the potential for heavy rainfall. The best season is coming up now, May to September. Gili Meno (pictured) is the quietest of the three islands. How to get there: Catch a fast ferry from Padang Bai, Serangan or Amed in Bali. Or fly from Ngurah Rai International Airport, Bali, to Lombok International Airport and catch a taxi to Bangsal Harbour and then a local boat to the Gilis.
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H OT & H A PPE NI NG
PERHENTIAN ISLANDS, MALAYSIA
BLUE BAY MARINE PARK, MAURITIUS Snorkelling is one of the most popular activities in Mauritius, an island that boasts a vibrant marine environment. The island is located in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean and is surrounded by hundreds of miles of coral reefs. Mauritius is in the southern hemisphere and the best time to snorkel is in the less windy summer months, between October and December. High 20 Asia Family Traveller
season is between November and February. Blue Bay Marine Park is located in the south-eastern corner of the island and is one of the most popular snorkelling spots. Expect to see damselfish, angelfish, parrotfish, clownfish and wrasse. How to get there: Fly to Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport.
The Perhentians are a small group of coralfringed islands off the northeastern coast of Malaysia. The two main islands are Perhentian Besar and Perhentian Kecil. The islands are popular with families and most of the islands’ beaches boast clear, shallow waters that are alive with rays, cuttlefish and parrotfish. There’s plenty of great snorkelling to enjoy, but if you want to take your diving a step further, there are also plenty of venues that offer PADI certification courses. Five further, uninhabited islands offer yet more snorkelling opportunities. Expect to see turtles, clownfish, blue spotted rays and black tipped sharks. There are lots of accommodation options on the main islands of Perhentian Besar and Kecil. Avoid the Perhentians during monsoon season, which runs from November to February, when many of the islands are closed to tourists. How to get there: Fly from Kuala Lumpur to Kuala Terengganu or Kota Bahru and take a bus or taxi to Kuala Besut. From here it’s a 40-minute boat ride to the Perhentians.
Phu Quoc is a collection of one main island and a handful of smaller islands just off the coast of mainland Vietnam. It’s home to some of the best snorkelling in Southeast Asia, boasting vibrant marine life in clear, shallow waters. Look out for bamboo sharks, dugongs and cuttlefish. While it’s all good, arguably the best snorkelling is to be had is in the south of Phu Quoc near the village of An Thoi. There are plenty of dive and snorkel operations throughout the main island that can arrange day trips or private boat tours. The best time of year to visit is from November to April, which are the driest months. If you can, avoid the first couple of weeks in February when Tet, the Vietnamese New Year occurs. It’s a national holiday and the area can get very busy. How to get there: Fly direct into Phu Quoc International Airport.
PALAWAN, PHILIPPINES The Palawan group of islands in Southern Luzon is about an hour’s flight from Manila. The area is named after its largest island, Palawan. Pristine beaches, clear blue waters and stunning limestone cliffs make this one of the best places in the Philippines to snorkel. Top spots in the area include Matinloc
Island in El Nido, which has great marine life and corals close to the shore. In Coron, Coral Garden is a must-see. It’s a regulated marine sanctuary with only a limited number of boats allowed in at any one time. The corals are plentiful and expect to see lots of clown fish wafting in and out of their anemone.
The best time to visit Palawan is from mid-October to early May when it is warm and dry. Wet season runs from late May to early September. How to get there: Fly into Manila International Airport and pick up a direct domestic flight to El Nido.
Asia Family Traveller 21
H OT & H APPE NI NG
PHU QUOC, VIETNAM
ROUND-THE-WORLD DIARY
Hunkering down in Sweden
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The Chenoweth family’s round-the-world adventure has taken on a new challenge with the spread of COVID-19. After a busy start to the trip in Finland, we caught up with mum Brooke as the family moved on to Sweden, Belgium and the Czech Republic
hen news of the coronavirus first emerged, we were busy exploring Sweden. It presented us with an interesting conundrum. Was this such a good time to be travelling? we asked ourselves. We decided to take a ‘wait and see', approach, not plan too far ahead and avoid major cities and crowds. And for a while, the plan worked. By the end of January, we had visited five countries, taken eight flights, and stayed in 13 different hotels or apartments. To say we had hit the ground running would be an understatement. We left the snowy skies of Finland behind in midDecember and made a beeline for Brussels, Belgium. Staying in the heart of the city made exploring easy and we managed to see most of the sights pretty quickly. But after dragging our reluctant children through the Grand Place, we changed tack and our visit took on a distinctly foodie focus, with some child-friendly sights thrown in. We included a visit to the MOOF museum, Manneken Pis, and countless Christmas markets, along with plenty of hot chocolate, croque monsieurs, waffles and frites
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Left - Sunset over Prague Below; Grand Place in Brussels and Hamley's toy store in Prague
to keep spirits high. It was cold and often crowded, but the home of TinTin didn’t disappoint. Once we’d soaked up as much of the capital city as possible, we took a train to the nearby mediaeval city of Bruges. It’s a fabulous town, and a child-friendly walking tour turned it into an interesting and
educational field trip. From Brussels we flew to Prague. This was the first time any of us had set foot in Czech Republic. When I was planning our trip, I had researched places where we might find a white Christmas, and Prague was a destination that frequently came up in online searches.
ROUND-THE-WORLD DIARY
Above - the coastal town of Slottet Below - Climbing up to the castle in Prague Sightseeing in Bruges
Well, we didn’t get snow, but it was quite possibly the most beautiful city I have ever visited. Prague takes the Christmas period very seriously and there were markets and ‘hot wine’ on every corner. We explored the old town on foot, climbed all 287 steps to the castle on a sunny day for spectacular views, made our wish lists at Hamley’s Toy Store, bought handmade ornaments, and ate traditional Trdelník. It may not have snowed, but we certainly left feeling very
festive. The Czech Republic is also high on our list of places we hope to return to in the summer. After we realised that my husband would have to fly back to Hong Kong for work commitments and wouldn’t be with us for Christmas, we made a last minute decision to spend some time in Sweden. We flew to Stockholm two days before Christmas and arrived in the city as the sun was stunningly setting. We had high hopes for Sweden.
AFTER DRAGGING RELUCTANT CHILDREN THROUGH THE GRAND PALACE, OUR VISIT TOOK A FOODIE TURN
Unfortunately, they were dashed as soon as we checked in and were told that many of the city’s shops and restaurants had already closed for Christmas including the hotel’s own bistro. This was a low point. We were hangry and cold, and it was the first time it really hit me that we were so far from home and would be spending Christmas on our own. I admit it was not my finest hour. After tracking down a local Thai restaurant, we bounced Asia Family Traveller 23
ROUND-THE-WORLD DIARY
The Stockholm waterfront
Above - downtown Bruges Opposite page clockwise A brief stopover in Copenhagen Shopping at NK department store The Nyhavn in Copenhagen
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back and did some research. As it turned out, a few of Stockholm’s museums were offering free entry on Christmas Eve. We set out the following morning with a clear plan and a rough idea of where we’d be eating - essential research when travelling with kids. Stockholm is a great city for walking, and we found it very easy to get around. We started off in the old town of Gamla Stan, past the royal palace and into the city itself for some last minute window shopping at NK department store. Fortified by a quick hot chocolate, we trekked over to Skansen, an open air museum/zoo. We had a very quick visit then headed over to the Nordiska Museet, a fascinating mix of traditional Swedish artefacts and modern fashion. It appeared that every tourist in Stockholm had had the same idea that day, and as we ate our meatballs and listened to the different accents all around us, we didn’t feel quite so homesick. The boys were true explorers and we managed an impressive 20,000 steps that day. Our Christmas Eve dinner was pizza, again surrounded by other tourists from all corners of the globe. Christmas Day itself was less subdued and many more people were out in the streets, shopping and catching up with friends. We didn’t get a white Christmas, but the city literally lights up during the festive season and it was well worth seeing. On Boxing Day we drove south-west to a little town
outside of Gothenburg. Friends from Hong Kong own a summer house on the coast and kindly offered it to us for three weeks. We were keen for some downtime, away from major cities and holiday crowds, and Slottet provided the perfect break. I mastered left-hand driving on Swedish country roads, while the boys developed a love for lingonberry jam and fika. It was bitterly cold some days, but that didn’t stop us from exploring the fjords and coastal towns. We travelled to Gothenburg for New Year’s Eve and saw in 2020 with a fireworks display on the harbour. Afterwards, we happily retreated back to our little coastal hamlet. We combined our nights playing board games by the fire with plenty of schoolwork and days outside. Trips included Norden’s Ark, a Swedish wildlife park that focuses on conservation and
preservation of endangered species, and was a highlight. Universeum in Gothenburg, which holds a rainforest, aquarium, science and technology hub, and more interactive exhibits than you can poke a stick at, was quite possibly the best museum we’ve ever visited. The boys were also quite taken with the playrooms inside the Swedish shopping centres. Sweden was restorative, and we left feeling like we’d had a proper holiday for the first time since we left home. It was also while we were in Sweden that we first got wind of the coronavirus outbreak back in Asia. After a brief 24 hours in Copenhagen - which was just enough time to see Amalienborg Palace, Nyhavn, and the playground outside Rosenborg castle - we headed off to Manchester for the next part of our adventure; two months exploring the United Kingdom and ‘lockdown’.
When we announced our plans, most people responded with positivity and support - with the exception of a few who think we’re completely bonkers… Spending 24 hours a day, seven days a week with your kids is daunting enough for most parents, but having to teach them as well takes it to another level! I’m a qualified teacher, and even I found the prospect challenging. But it has been easier than any of us expected. I have a lot of resources and we’re roughly following the Australian curriculum for the basics. We start each day with a couple of hours of schoolwork and follow a set routine. The rest of the day is free for play, but we’ve built some non-traditional learning in to it, or what I like to call ‘sneaky learning’. Every museum or landmark we visit is considered a field trip. Every time we move countries, we do research about the culture, history, geography, and attempt a few words in the local language. The boys are also developing a huge number of new life skills too; from budgeting and packing, to building a fire and extreme temperature survival skills. We’ve made lessons out of everything we do, every day, which means we’re learning too. A huge motivating factor for us was wanting to spend this time together as a family while the kids are old enough to benefit from it, but still young enough that it won’t impact too much on schooling. For the most part, we’re enjoying their company, but there have been some very small hotel rooms that have really tested the limits... It has taken us a few weeks to settle into a routine and get used to the idea that this isn’t a holiday; it’s going to take work to make it work for all of us. But so far, it’s been, as my boys would say, “epic.”
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ROUND-THE-WORLD DIARY
LIFE ON THE ROAD
MY HOLIDAY ALBUM
Diving with my daughter Photographer Karin Bremer jetted off for an underwater adventure in Palau with her daughter Emilie earlier this year. We took a sneak peek inside her photo album
The country prides itself on being a ‘pristine paradise’ for divers. On entering Palau, Karin and Emilie had to sign a pledge promising to look after the nature there.
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At the end of the trip, the pair explored Jellyfish Lake. Karin admits to being stunned by the diversity of marine life in Palau.
MY HOLIAY ALBUM
All set and ready to dive - on board the dive boat. Karin and ten-year-old Emilie dived twice a day during their break.
The dive operator picked the pair up each morning from their water bungalow at Palau Pacific Resort for another packed day diving the archipelago.
The pair enjoyed a scenic flight over the islands on one of the few afternoons when they weren’t diving.
The diving in Palau is extremely varied. When the current was strong, the dive guides hooked the divers to a rock or dead coral for a ‘reef hook dive’ so they could float with the current - “it was like being a spectator in a huge aquarium,” says Karin. At one point, hundreds of sharks swam by.
Mum Karin and ten-year-old Emilie.
Emilie obtained her PADI Junior Open Water Dive certification in Japan last year and was able to dive to a maximum of 12m in Palau. An additional dive guide stayed with her while the rest of the group explored deeper. Karin Bremer is a Hong Kong-based photographer, get in touch at karinbremer.com. Asia Family Traveller 27
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FEATURES 32
A new property on Malaysia’s south coast is the perfect weekend getaway
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High jinks on the high seas as one family sets sail from England to Australia
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Cruising the stunning Komodo National Park on the look-out for dragons (pictured)
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F O CUS
F CUS Big blue adventures Asia boasts some of the best diving in the world. Carolynne Dear rounds up the region’s top located resorts
WAKATOBI There are certain experiences in life that shouldn’t be missed. Floating weightless in warm, crystal clear waters surrounded by the colours and marine life of a coral reef is one of them. Wakatobi Resort is located in southwest Sulawesi, Indonesia, and is a mecca for divers. Its pristine surroundings, spectacular underwater landscapes and amazing diversity places it firmly amongst the world’s best diving destinations. The island of Sulawesi lies east of Borneo. Wakatobi Resort is located within the Wakatobi National Park. It’s the third largest marine park in Indonesia and the late Jacques Cousteau, French pioneer of marine conservation, is said to have nicknamed the Wakatobi islands an ‘underwater Nirvana’. The marine park covers 1.4 million hectares, of which 900,000 hectares host tropical coral reefs. Wakatobi has the highest number of reef and fish species in the world. Though remote and unspoilt, Wakatobi Resort is easily reached via private, direct guest flight from Bali to the resort’s private airstrip. 30 Asia Family Traveller
The resort offers a collection of bungalows and waterfront villas set in a beachside palm grove. The resort may be barefoot, but don’t expect to rough it. The service is stand-out, with gourmet dining and relaxing spa treats. Directly in front of the resort and a short swim from the beach is the house reef, which has received the accolade of world’s best shore dive. This expansive reef system is available to guests day and night and includes both shallow and deeper corals to accommodate everyone from snorkelling youngsters to veteran divers. Wakatobi also operates a fleet of launches that make daily trips to more than 40 dive sites within the marine park. Many of the sites are suitable for both divers and snorkelers. Families and smaller groups have the option of chartering a private boat to enjoy the reefs at their own pace. Additional facilities for families include nanny services, children’s programmes and kid-friendly dining. wakatobi.com
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The secluded Wakatobi Resort and vibrant house reef
Exploring Wakatobi’s underwater world
Heading out on a boat trip
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F O CUS PAPUA DIVING This well placed dive group operates two private resorts along the shoreline of Kri Island in the stunning marine sanctuary of Raja Ampat in Indonesia. Sorido Bay and Kri Eco resorts are centrally located inside the marine sanctuary. The Raja Ampat Islands are an archipelago in West Papua. The hundreds of jungle-covered isles are renowned for their silky sand beaches and coral reefs rich in marine life. The archipelago straddles the Equator and is part of the Coral Triangle, an area that boasts the richest marine diversity in the world. Less than a minute from the Papua Diving resorts is the
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house reef of Cape Kri. It holds the world record for the widest variety of fish species counted on a single dive - the total came to a massive 374. Besides hosting the world’s most vibrant reefs, the area surrounding Kri Island also contains some of the best dive sites in Raja Ampat. Papua Diving’s Sorido Bay resort encompasses seven private bungalows in the lush jungle located next to a kidneyshaped lagoon. And Kri Eco resort offers 13 cottages across three categories which are built with respect for Papuan architecture. papua-diving.com
Top - Kri Eco resort, one of Papua Diving’s properties in Raja Ampat Middle - an aerial view of the islands Bottom l to r - Sorido Bay resort; underwater explorations
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AGGRESSOR ADVENTURES If you’d prefer to try a ‘liveaboard’, Aggressor Adventures is one of the world leaders. Operating at top sites around the globe for nearly 40 years, the company boasts a fleet of 23 yachts offering 40 itineraries in 19 countries. Great spots in Asia include The Philippines, Palau, Raja Ampat, Komodo, Thailand and the Maldives. In Thailand, Aggressor offers itineraries in the stunning Similan Islands on the country’s west coast. The nine islands boast snowwhite beaches, lush tropical jungle and spectacular dive sites. The stunning Similans are ranked amongst the top ten dive sites in the world. The islands are surrounded by huge underwater rock formations which are home to a wide variety of marine life. For more advanced divers, depths reach up to 40m or more. Guests get to experience narrow swim-throughs, caverns and
underwater canyons. During the trip, groups get the chance to visit the uninhabited islands of Koh Bon and Koh Tachai located between the Similan and Surin National Park. They offer excellent dive sites, including a breathtaking dropoff, a wealth of corals and great opportunities to see passing
mantas and whale sharks. The Thailand Aggressor is a spacious 114’ yacht that can host up to 16 people in eight guest rooms, attended to by a crew of eight. Expect air conditioned rooms with showers, fresh towels and flat screen TVs. The communal salon area
boasts a large shady sun deck, Jacuzzi hot tub, loungers, bar and grill. Evening entertainment includes night diving, fish identification presentations, movies and games. All meals, snacks and drinks are included. aggressor.com Asia Family Traveller 33
F E AT UR E
Lazing by one of the two resort pools
LAZY LONG WEEKENDS Malaysia’s languorous Desaru Coast has been brought to life with luxury hotels, championship golf courses and an adventure waterpark. Carolynne Dear flew down to take a look
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liding through the waterways, dappled sunlight slanting through the mangrove trees, birds chatter all around us. But this is no faraway island. I’m bobbing around in a small boat just around the corner from the Straits of Johor, a bustling deep-water shipping lane with a causeway linking the nearby city of Johor, the state capital, with Singapore. The waterways of the protected Belungkor Forest couldn’t be more of a contrast. I’m here on a morning ‘Mangrove Cruising’ experience courtesy of the brand new Anantara hotel 34 Asia Family Traveller
that has just opened its doors in nearby Desaru. The hotel is in the throes of engaging with locals to initiate a menu of activities in the area. Along with the cruise, a walking foodie tour of Johor Bahru’s Old Town is already up and running. Our guide hails from Langkawi and is an expert on Malaysian flora and fauna. Our boat driver deftly navigates under trailing branches and through an altogether otherworldly landscape before mooring up at a local village. Here we are invited to help plant mangrove saplings as part of the wetlands regeneration programme and are rewarded with a cup of mangrove
tea and some delicious donuts made with ground mangrove leaf flour, courtesy of the village ladies. Around 80% of the local communities living here depend on the mangrove ecosystem for their daily livelihood and it was a feel-good moment to be lending some support. The opening of the five-star Anantara property in the sleepy backwater of nearby Desaru is part of a planned regeneration of the area. Desaru Coast, with its 17kms of sweeping sandy beach, has long been a favourite sandy hang-out for local Malays, and even the odd Singaporean looking to relax and recharge.
The surrounding 3,700-acre coastal area was launched in 2017 as the country’s first, ‘premium integrated destination’. What that has meant is the arrival of a raft of big-name five- and six-star hotels, two championship golf courses, a retail village and a waterpark. Anantara Desaru Coast opened in November last year and is an impressive, tworesort pool, 90-room, low-rise, beachside property overlooking lush gardens and the ocean. If I could sum the resort up in a word, it would be generous. Generous gardens, generous pools, generous rooms, generous beach - everything is
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Ocean views from the second pool
comfortably scaled. The resort also offers standalone one- and two-bedroom pool villas which have been designed in the style of traditional ‘kampong’ (village) houses, as well as a collection of schmick three- and fourbedroom residences with private pool, direct beach access, full kitchen and chef and butler service. If you’re a larger family or group, there’s plenty of accommodation to suit. My hotel room is wellsized with a huge balcony and daybed - to be honest it’s more of a terrace - with all the luxury touches you would expect from an Anantara property. The bathroom is equally spacious, with plenty of eco-friendly amenities, including bars of soap and refillable pump shower gels and shampoos. The freestanding bath is an added treat as I’ve flown into Malaysia and Johor on the back of a trip to London.
The property was quiet when I visited, presumably it is even quieter now. I enjoyed a completely deserted pool one morning and managed to tuck away a handful of meditative lengths before breakfast. It was also nice to see an a la carte brekkie served to the table rather than a free-for-all buffet. The menu has been carefully thought out and designed to please the most health-conscious of guests. The property is familyfriendly - the bikes provided for getting around are available with child seats and there is also a kids club on-site. My own children were green-eyed when I told them about the huge water-park just next door to the hotel. A return trip en famille is already being eagerly planned… For Singaporians, Desaru Coast is an easy weekend getaway, at just an hourand-a-half by road from the Lion City. There are also
direct, one-hour sailings to Desaru’s brand new ferry terminal, with a free shuttle service linking the terminal with the Desaru Coast complex. For Hong Kongers, it’s a slightly more convoluted route. Malaysian Airlines (usually) flies direct to Kuala Lumpur and you can then transfer onto a domestic, 25-minute shuttle flight to Johor. It’s then a 45-minute airport transfer to the hotel. By the time the current coronavirus crisis is over, we will all no doubt be looking for a restorative bolt-hole by the beach. Anantara Desaru Coast certainly fits the bill.
Lending a helping hand to local mangrove regeneration projects
Gliding through the sunlit waters of Belungkor Forest
Anantara Desaru Coast Resort & Villas is currently running the following promotion. If you book a room before December 31, you will receive a daily resort credit of MYR 150; book a villa or residence and receive a MYR 250 daily credit. anantara.com Asia Family Traveller 35
F E AT UR E
HOME SWEET HOME There’s no place like home, especially during these testing times. Carolynne Dear rounds up the best of the Hong Kong and Singapore’s family-friendly staycation deals.
Four Seasons Hong Kong enjoys stellar views over Victoria Harbour
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ith borders being closed all over Asia, residents of both Hong Kong and Singapore are now facing the prospect of a travel-free spring and possibly summer. It looks like the humble staycay might be the only way to experience a holiday this year. Hong Kong’s hotels have been promoting staycation breaks for much of 2019 in an effort to boost trade during the government protests. Reduced room rates and a plethora of inducements including restaurant credits, spa discounts and complimentary breakfasts have been used to attract local trade. Many promotions have now been extended and new deals introduced, often catering for the whole family. If you’re looking to indulge yourself with a break at one of the city’s top properties, now is the time to do it. Four Seasons Hong Kong has launched a Kids Stay For Free package, which will be running until May 3. The luxe property 36 Asia Family Traveller
commands a prime position overlooking Victoria Harbour on Hong Kong Island, with arguably one of the best rooftop pool decks in town. A Deluxe Harbour View Room comes with a free-of-charge connecting room for up to three children. Further perks include 20% discount off breakfast and in-room dining and a menu of family activities. Prices start at HK$4,600. The Shangri-La Group has three Hong Kong properties and is currently offering a family-friendly staycation package across all of them. Stay before June 30 and receive a HK$1,000 dining credit per night, access to the hotels’ pools and fitness facilities and a child’s amenity bag. Golden Circle members also benefit from double GC Award Points on booking. The properties include Island Shangri-La in Central, Kowloon Shangri-La in Tsim Sha Tsui, and Kerry Hotel in Hung Hom. Prices start at HK$2,500 per room, per night. Meanwhile, The Langham Hotel in Kowloon is offering similar staycay benefits. Bookings for the family staycation package must be made before April 30 on stays before June 30 and benefits include daily breakfast for two adults and one child up to 12
STAYCAT IO N
Enjoying family time at Novotel Singapore
IF YOU’RE LOOKING TO INDULGE YOURSELF AND YOUR FAMILY WITH A STAYCATION AT A TOP HOTEL, NOW IS THE TIME TO DO IT
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F E AT UR E
Clockwise from top - Having a splashing time at Four Seasons Hong Kong; The Murray hotel in Hong Kong; All setup at The Langham Hong Kong
years, early check-in and late check-out, one HK$1,000 dining credit, a complimentary Langham limited edition Octopus card with HK$100 credit, a care kit including kids’ bath set and hand sanitizer, complimentary 24-hour parking and access to the 24-hour fitness centre. Prices start at HK$1,990 per room per night and the offer is exclusively for Hong Kong and Macau residents. Hong Kong’s plush The Murray hotel on Cotton Tree Drive has extended its Murray Staycation package into the summer. It’s nicely tailored for young families and includes complimentary breakfast for two adults and children under six years at The Tai Pan or Garden Lounge, a child’s gift, a complimentary roll-away bed, one HK$1,200 dining credit per night and free parking. Prices start at HK$2,500 per room per night and the offer has been extended until August 31. Rosewood Hong Kong is setting up for Easter with a room package available from April 1 to May 31. Book two consecutive nights and receive a third night free along with a HK$1,000 dining credit, a HK$1,000 voucher for the hotel’s Asaya wellness facility, in-room Easter and spring-themed treats, private access to the 38 Asia Family Traveller
Manor Club and a complimentary KLUB Gold Card Membership. Over in the Lion City, similar deals are available, both in the city and on the laid-back resort island of Sentosa. Sofitel Singapore City Centre is targeting both locals and overseas travellers with a deal available until December 31. It includes daily breakfast, a three-course Chef’s Signature Dinner in its awardwinning Racines restaurant and late check-out until 6pm. Children under 12 and sharing a room with their parents (one child per room) can enjoy free accommodation and breakfast. Cribs and roll-away beds are available on request. The deal is valid for stays on Friday, Saturday and Sunday only and prices start at S$340 in a Luxury Room. Meanwhile, Hilton Singapore has launched a Steak-Cation Celebration Package. It’s available on bookings until May 31 and includes a Deluxe Room for two adults, children under 12 years stay for free in the same room (valid for up to two children), daily buffet breakfast, sharing steak dinner for two including two-hour free flow wine, 50% discount on a 60-minute body massage treatment and late check-out until 3pm. Prices start at S$390 per night.
Travel to Sentosa for free Visitors will be able to enter Singapore’s resort island of Sentosa for free until the end of June. Sentosa Development Corporation is waiving the island’s admission fees in a bid to attract locals and support businesses during the COVID-19 outbreak. Entry to Sentosa is free for those on foot, but for visitors in cars, taxis or on the VivoCity monorail, there is normally an entrance charge. This is now being waived.
Singapore’s Shangri-La Hotel has launched an Egg-citing Easter Staycation Package. The offer runs between April 2 and 15 and includes daily buffet breakfast for two adults and two children under six years, two hours of play access at Buds by ShangriLa, choccy Easter amenities, S$100 daily dining credit and a shuttle bus service to shopping malls at Orchard. Prices start from S$395. And at Novotel Singapore, stay from S$195 per night with the hotel’s Weekend Family Staycation Package. The deal includes a free breckie for two adults and two children, 20% discount on food and non-alcoholic drinks at any of the hotel’s restaurants and bars and late check-out to 2pm. The offer is valid on stays until December 31. For a beach break away from the city, hop down to Senstosa where Capella Singapore is offering a
TRAVEL OUTSIDE OF HONG KONG IS NOT AN OPTION AT THE MOMENT
Sentosa Staycation. The luxe property is set amongst 30-acres of lush rainforest, proving for Singaporians that you really don’t have to jump on a flight to get away from it all. The just-launched staycation deal is valid on stays until June 30 and includes 20% off best available rates, free parking, early check-in and late check-out. Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa Resort & Spa has a Tropical Family Escapade guests can take advantage of until May 30. The deal includes one-night accommodation with complimentary upgrade to the next room category, buffet breakfast for two adults and two children up to 12 years, buffet dinner for two adults and two children with unlimited house wines, beer and soft drinks, use of water sports facilities, access to Toots Club and Mini Toots club, access to Nestopia outdoor play space, early check-in and late check-out and one children’s Fun Pack. Prices start at S$480 per room per night. Asia Family Traveller 39
STAYCAT IO N
Drink in the Singapore skyline from the pool deck at Hilton Singapore (top); having a ball at Shangri-La Rasa Senstosa
F E AT UR E
CRUISE CONTROL Luxe liners are embracing young families with a heap of innovative offerings, from ‘smart’ ships to cutting edge kids’ entertainment. Frances Marcellin hits the high seas to take a look
MSC Cruises anchors up
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MSC Cruises has finely tuned its innovative children’s programme and Entertainment for the whole family includes karaoke night, activities are age-targeted through its five dedicated kids clubs catering poolside games, theme nights and movies. There’s also fencing and for littlies from zero years to teens. archery. The aqua show (which hires expert Red Bull cliff divers) is These ships cruise all over the world, including Asia, and the facilities extraordinarily thrilling. on board will entertain your kids every step of the way. Symphony of the Seas has Ultimate Abyss, the scream-inducing The waterslides are a big hit with young and old – some ships have tallest slide at sea, as well as a family suite with a slide from bedroom ‘interactive slide-boarding’ (which is like playing a video game at the to lounge and an in-suite cinema. Loft suites, family staterooms and same time). Younger children will love the colourful splash playground connected suites are also available. and there are always plenty of swimming pools, outdoor as well as covered, to choose from. Carnival Partnerships with Chicco and Lego form the basis of the play areas, Carnival says it takes fun very seriously and the cruise line provides but there are all kinds of board games, sports and dance contests to activities though Camp Carnival (for two to 11year olds); Circle C enjoy. There are Wii, Xbox and PS4 machines, but kids can also use (12-14); and Club O2 (15-17). The activities depend on the ship, but technology in other ways, from creating designs and printing them in games, activity walls, climbing mazes and computer labs are common 3D, to sharing a table-sized iPad and piloting a drone. across the fleet. The latest ships have a virtual reality maze, full-size bowling, a Notably, the crew has also been trained to be ‘sensory inclusive’ video arcade and a 4D cinema. You’ll always know where everyone meaning adults or kids with conditions such as autism, ADHD, down in your group is too (kids and adults) as the MSC for syndrome, and PTSD can maximise their enjoyment Me app can track their geo-located smart wristbands on board. (if you opt in). A partnership with Zumba and BabyFirst has Chat to members of your group through the app (free created Zumbini, where young kids can sing, dance via the ship’s WiFi), use Google Maps-style navigation and play musical instruments. Carnival Horizon’s CARNIVAL’S to find your way, make reservations and create an inDr Seuss WaterWorks has an aqua splash area and MARDI GRAS app personalised itinerary. a raft slide, as well as an enclosed body slide with In Europe, MSC Cruises’ Family Explorer Club lighting effects. Kids can bounce to their hearts’ LAUNCHES IN gives kids missions to solve and has storytelling tour content on Carnival Panorama, which has a fun NOVEMBER WITH A zone for all ages, including a 12-lane trampoline guides to keep kids interested. MSC Cruises has also introduced a ‘Protectors’ programme, connecting ROLLER COASTER park, a climbing wall and soft blocks for toddlers families with nature and local communities. Saving and babies. baby sea turtles in the Caribbean and assisting Mardi Gras, which launches in November 2020 57 METRES ABOVE at a honey-bee farm in Corfu are just some of the and operates in Europe and the Caribbean, will SEA LEVEL experiences you can share. feature a roller coaster with a 220-metre track, 57 Family accommodation is abundant on MSC Cruises. metres above sea level. It surrounds a three-slide Options include duplex suites (double bed upstairs and aqua park, suspended rope course and mini golf. sofa bed downstairs), two-bedroom grand suites and Football, volleyball and basketball are also part of family cabins. A clever modular system and bunk beds mean you can the programme. There are also several pools to splash around in. connect multiple staterooms for families of up to ten people.
Royal Caribbean If thrilling water parks are more your style, then CocoCay, Royal Caribbean’s private island, is worth a visit on a Caribbean cruise. An enormous aquapark and balloon rides add yet more fun. This is just one of the 300 destinations Royal Caribbean sail to. Alternative regions include Europe, Alaska, America, Asia and the South Pacific. Exploring the decks of a Royal Caribbean ship feels like a playground for all ages. Specifics vary from ship to ship – the virtual reality game on Sky Pad (a bungee trampoline experience) is only available on China sailings – but the range is vast. Waterslides galore, aqua playgrounds, crazy golf, surf simulator FlowRider, escape rooms, merry-go-rounds, laser tag, a towering climbing wall and an ice-skating rink are some of the highlights. Royal Caribbean is renowned for the range of its kids’ programmes that cover babies to tweens and teens, including science and art-based activities, storytelling and a teen-only nightclub.
Taking time out from an MSC cruise for a paddle
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MSC Cruises
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Family-friendly staterooms, including inter-connecting are ideal for small and large families. Family Harbor accommodation on Carnival Vista, Carnival Horizon and Carnival Panorama offer staterooms and suites for families of five. There is also a separate dedicated lounge and family concierge desk. Destinations include Singapore, Australia, the Caribbean, Alaska, Hawaii, Canada, Europe and the Bahamas. Cruising in the latter means guests can explore Carnival’s 2,400-acre private island resort Half Moon Cay. Horse rides, nature trails, lagoons and an aqua park are waiting to be discovered.
Crystal Cruises Children are particularly well catered for on Crystal Symphony and Crystal Serenity. On certain sailings there are activities for kids up to the age of 17 years and dedicated play areas for all ages. Fantasia (for youngsters) includes supervised activities, board games, arts and crafts and puzzles. Waves (aimed at teens) offers PlayStation, Nintendo Wii and Xbox 360 gaming. There is a swimming pool on board and special children’s activities run during the summer holiday season. Cruise holidays operate close to home in destinations such as Singapore, Japan and China, and some depart from Hong Kong. Elsewhere, most corners of the world are covered, including Africa, Australia and New Zealand, the Caribbean, the Middle East, South America and the South Pacific.
Paul Gauguin Do your kids love the Disney film Moana? If so, check out this luxury cruise line with a special ocean-based, Moana Explorer programme for those sailing to 42 Asia Family Traveller
Tahiti, French Polynesia and the South Pacific. The programme has been developed in partnership with the South Pacific Marine Education and Conservation Foundation, Te mana o te moana. Youngsters aged seven to 15 years get to explore the natural habitats in this part of the world through science, art and games-focused activities. Water experiments, treasure hunts, Tahitian culture and discovering underwater life are some of the highlights. Also included in the overall cruise price are watersports such as kayaking and paddle boarding. And don’t miss a visit to the private islet Motu Mahana, where the whole family can snorkel among the fish and bright coral in warm, crystal-clear waters.
Surf and water fun on board Royal Caribbean
Celebrity Cruises Celebrity Cruises, with its allfemale bridge and officer team on Celebrity Edge, is pushing the boundaries for gender equality. Kids programmes include Toddler Time for under threes and run all the way up to Senior Teens
Diving the South Pacific with Paul Gaughuin
CRU ISIN G
Paul Gauguin cruisers exploring the waters off Tahiti
for 16 to 17 year olds. Celebrity also holds a Camp at Sea for three to 12 year olds and an X-Club for teens aged 13 to 16. Kids can investigate marine organisms, delve into the world of plastic pollution and learn how lifestyle choices can impact positive change. Overall, there are more than 500 activities that aim to nurture young directors, artists, scientists and chefs. The cruise line’s foodie focus enables children to enjoy hands-on culinary experience with the chefs on board. STEM experiences launched on Celebrity Equinox are a result of a partnership with Frost Science Museum. This is the third ship to have been part of a $500 million fleet revamp, which is set for completion in 2023. Celebrity operates across 79 countries and sails to 300 destinations all over the world. Asian countries include Hong Kong, China, Japan, Vietnam, South Korea, Thailand, India and Malaysia.
Norwegian Cruise Lines Norwegian Cruise Lines is loud and proud about its kids programmes. Petrol heads will want to cruise on Norwegian Bliss and Norwegian Joy, the only cruise ships with a racetrack at sea. All cars are electric (cleverly disguised with gas engine sounds) and many have double seats so you can race with your kids. For water-based adrenalinefueled fun you can speed down the waterslides that hang over the side of the ship. The virtual gaming world of Dark Ride 7D is found in the Galaxy Pavilion
Snorkel fun on a Paul Gauguin cruise
(along with other VR games) and augmented reality laser tag is up on the top deck of Encore, Bliss and Joy. On Norwegian Breakaway, there are multi-level rope courses. Those feeling brave can walk ‘the plank’, although you’re safely strapped in as you lurch above the sea below. Teens are well catered for with creative and sports activities, along with gaming and theme nights, such as White Hot Party and College Night. All of the ships in the fleet have family staterooms and most have two-bedroom suites near the kids’ area. Hong Kong is one of the
departure ports for NCL cruises and many Asian destinations are covered.
Disney Most children have at least one Disney film they’ve seen ten times, and the chances are that they’ll meet the characters on board a Disney cruise. The entertainment starts as soon as the ship sails with a Pirates ‘in’ the Caribbean deck party. In terms of kids’ clubs, three and unders are looked after at the nursery. The Oceaneer Club entertains three to 12 year olds, and Tweens (11-14) have access to movies and video games. Teens sailing on Disney Fantasy and Disney Dream are lucky enough to have their very own deck with music, games and food. Disney cruises are obviously big on Broadway-style entertainment. Shows include Frozen, Tangled and Beauty and the Beast. There aren’t any Asia cruises Asia Family Traveller 43
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CRUISE DISRUPTIONS
on offer, but regions Disney does sail to includes Europe, the Pacific Coast, Mexico, Canada, Caribbean and Alaska. Disney also has its own private island, Castaway Cay, in the Bahamas where there’s a snorkeling bay, volleyball and water playgrounds. Disney characters constantly on-hand to meet and greet kids, too. For those who want to explore the more natural side of the island, there are plenty of walking and running trails.
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Character fun on a Disney cruise
The cruise industry has been deeply impacted by the coronavirus, reports Carolynne Dear, with trips cancelled and ships at anchor for the foreseeable future. Bustling ports are silent and workers affiliated both directly and indirectly with the industry have been affected. Lay-offs have occurred in many areas, from port workers and cruise line contractors, to hotel workers, crew and suppliers. This is the biggest challenge the industry has faced since 9/11, But, dire as things may be, experts believe the industry will bounce back, just as it did
in 2001. It’s anticipated that cruise companies will rebound post-coronavirus with deep discounts and special offers. And if you have booked, the advice is to hang on to that holiday, don’t cancel but wait it out. In the meantime, companies have introduced a raft of cancellation and rebooking policies, including cash refunds and full credits on fares which in some cases can be used on sailings until the end of 2021. This is a constantly evolving situation, so be sure to check individual cruise line policies on booking.
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F E AT UR E 46 Asia Family Traveller
Many of us dream of giving it all up and sailing off into the sunset. But for one Hong Kong family, that dream became a reality. Marianne Rogerson finds out what happened when Gemma Simmonds, her husband Ed, ten-year-old Eva and sevenyear-old Henry left Hong Kong to sail the world
I
t all started with the kindness of a stranger in a bar in Seattle. Young newlywed couple, Gemma Simmonds and her husband Ed were struggling to find accommodation during their year-long honeymoon and were offered the use of the stranger’s boat for the night. This serendipitous act of kindness sparked a lifelong love of sailing and a dream that one day they might sail the world together. Years of learning to master dinghies and crewing for friends cemented this dream, and the jigsaw pieces finally fell into place some 14 years later when they were living in Hong Kong. “We’re not people to say something and then not do it,” says Simmonds. Their daughter Eva was 10 years old and about to enter her final year of primary school, and the timing just felt right. “There’s an excellent book, The Missing Centimetre by Leon Schulz, that describes how you look at your life as a tape measure, with every centimetre representing one year of life. Let's say the average life expectancy of someone is 85, so you cut it there. Then you say okay well I'm around 40, so you snip out a centimetre at 40 and you stick the tape measure together again. And you look at it and it looks just the same length. “But then there’s that centimetre on the table. And you lift it up and you go ‘What can I do with that centimetre, that one year?’ And you can do so much! Reading that book was the tipping point for us. We thought, what’s the worst that could happen?” Despite their years of sailing experience, there was a lot of preparation required before they were ready for launch, not least of all selling their house and finding the perfect boat to take them round the world. Added to that there was home-schooling to prepare for and courses in first aid, advanced sailing, boat engines, radio use and more. “We had a medical kit, we had every drug, we had two doctors at the end of a phone should we need them. We had safety equipment coming out of our ears and we had satellite phones and spare parts for the boat.” Finally, on July 30 2018, they were ready to go. Their home for the next year would be a 15m x 3m (42 ft) Halberg Rassy named the Aurora B. She was fitted with six berths, two heads (toilets), a fridge, freezer, oven, water maker and generator. There was no airconditioning and no washing machine. A bucket with a plunger would have to suffice for washing clothes. Their year-long adventure took them 15,534 nautical miles from England to Australia. They started with crossing the Channel to Europe, where they called into Spain and Portugal before heading down to the Canary Islands to prepare for the Atlantic crossing to St Lucia. From here it was on to Colombia and Panama before sailing through the Panama Canal and onto the Galapagos then crossing the Pacific Ocean to the Marquesas. The final part of the journey saw
The manual 'washing machine' on board
them sailing around the Pacific Islands before finally ending up in Australia, one year and nine days after they left England. The experiences the trip rewarded them with included diving with hammerhead sharks in the Galapagos, climbing volcanoes in Vanuatu, sleeping under the stars Survival style in hammocks on a deserted beach in the Cook Islands, snorkelling with manta rays in the Marquesas, and a hundred other life-changing moments. There were parties in St Lucia and Vanuatu, beers on deck to celebrate crossing the equator, and new friendships formed in anchorages and marinas around the world.
Home-schooling at sea Opposite page - sailing into yet another sunset
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SAIL T HE WO R L D
LIFE ON THE OCEAN WAVE
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RICH REWARDS INCLUDED DIVING WITH HAMMERHEAD SHARKS IN THE GALAPAGOS, CLIMBING VOLCANOES IN VANUATU AND SLEEPING UNDER THE STARS IN THE COOK ISLANDS
But it wasn’t all ‘plain sailing’. The family experienced several what they call ‘Armadillo’ moments. When the code word ‘Armadillo’ was used, it meant there was a serious situation at hand and everybody on board had to stop, and do exactly as they were told. The first such situation came four days into their Atlantic Ocean crossing, when a bolt fell off the oven, causing it to sever from the wall and land on the gas line. Four days from land and with the boat lurching from side to side in rough seas, Simmonds somehow managed to fashion a working oven out of the razor sharp pieces of metal that were strewn across the floor. “I just had to work out the problem because otherwise there was no oven for the next 15 days of our trip. Whatever happens, you've got to trust in yourselves to be resourceful. And you know what? You can be, when you are put to the test. The feeling of working it out and fixing it, then cooking that first meal was the best feeling ever.” Other times the family’s resources were put to the test included losing their steering control in rough seas off the coast of Colombia (they managed to find a sheltered anchorage and find someone to fix it, in addition to persuading the Colombian coast guard to allow them to stay overnight) and their engine failing to start as they came into a rocky outcrop in Fiji (they put both children on deck as ‘spotters’ and navigated the reef under sail). Before they set off, the most daunting prospect were the two ocean 48 Asia Family Traveller
crossings: the 18-day Atlantic Ocean passage and 20 days to cross the Pacific Ocean. For these two stints, the family invited an extra crew member on board so that there were three adults to share the night watches. At night they would each do four hours on, eight hours off so that everybody got some sleep. In the morning everyone was responsible for fixing their own breakfast, and then someone would rustle up sandwiches for a communal lunch. In the afternoon they would put on music, make bread, and do a puzzle, game or home schooling. Then in the evening it would be a hot meal together before settling into the night watch again. “It's amazing how quickly that sort of routine becomes the norm, and actually after 10-15 days you think “I don't know whether I want to come into land, I like this way of life.” It's easy; there's not much asked of you. I was reading, I was listening to podcasts, I was watching the most incredible shooting star displays. “I felt at peace. The sea was always a different colour morning, noon and night. There were always either fish or birds or squid or some animal around, even though you think you're in the middle of nowhere.” This included on their last night at sea when Simmonds was alone on deck and a whale came up beside the boat and swam alongside for 15 minutes keeping her company.
Fun on and off the boat
Moored up at Daniel’s Bay, The Marquesas
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SAIL T HE WO R L D
Nuka Hiva, The Marquesas
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Nuka Hiva, The Marquesas
To make these long stretches at sea more manageable, Aurora B signed up for the Atlantic Rally Crossing (ARC), which sees a fleet of around 200 boats cross the ocean from Las Palmas to St Lucia together. Although boats may be several days apart, there is always radio contact between the fleet. This radio became a source of comfort to the Aurora B crew, whether it was having a random chat with a cargo ship that had come into the 20-mile radius of their VHF radio bandwidth, or the twice-daily roll call of the boats in their fleet on the SSB radio. This daily check-in not only allowed boats to help one another trouble-shoot issues on board, but also built a sense of community, with someone running a quiz one day, and the kids getting together to chat the next. “Even if you couldn’t see any other boats, you knew they were
there. You were in contact with them. You didn’t feel so alone. You could appreciate where you were, like when you've got this amazing starry sky and it's crystal clear waters and there's phosphorescence appearing around your boat as you're breaking the waves, and it's just so peaceful. But at the same time you know that somebody’s over there. Maybe 20 nautical miles away, which is four or five hours away, but that's okay. We're okay. We're all good.” Far from being lonely, the sense of camaraderie experienced amongst the boating community is in fact one of the things that Simmonds misses the most. “It’s an unsaid thing that people will just help you, whether it’s with time, resources, spare parts, water, fuel. Whatever it is, people will help, and they’re not looking for you to help them back in any
Left - buying provisions afloat; learning the ‘bird dance’ in Nuka Hiva
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SAIL T HE WO R L D
UK
Galapagos
(San Cristobal, Isabela, Santa Cruz)
Canaries
The Marquesas (Hiva Oa, Tahuata, Nuka Hiva)
Australia (Mackay)
(Lanzarote, Las Palmas)
Panama
Spain
(La Coruna, Baiona)
(San Blas Islands, Panama Canal, Las Perlas Islands)
Tuamotus, French Polynesia (Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora)
Portugal
(Cascais, Lagos)
Fiji Colombia St Lucia
way. It’s like a passing it forward thing. It’s that next level of people going that extra mile and being that extra person for you. I’ve never experienced it before. It’s just brilliant.” Having returned to Hong Kong and settled the kids back into school, the wanderlust that remains in Simmonds is palpable. She has already completed another six-week ocean sailing from Cape Town to Salvador in Brazil with another family, and is busy plotting when she can return to sail the South Pacific in a more leisurely manner. So what advice would Simmonds have for other families with a dream to travel the world? “I would say now to anyone: do something with your family. Whether you can manage six weeks or six months, or a year. It’s different from when you take a holiday and everything is planned. It’s no bad thing for a family to have some boredom, some insecurity, some uncertainty. Yes it’s a huge investment and a huge risk to take, but I genuinely think there can only be a positive outcome.”
(Santa Marta)
Suwarrow
Niue
Vanuatu
Tonga
WHATEVER THE CHALLENGE, PEOPLE STEPPED IN TO HELP. IT WAS BRILLIANT
We did it! The end of the journey in Mackay, Australia
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TAKING THE SLOW ROAD Exploring New Zealand had long been on the Armitage family bucket list. Earlier this year they took extended leave and finally flew down from their home in Hong Kong. Mum Niamh reveals how the trip went
Horseback riding in Wanaka
Views over the stunning Tasman Lake, Tasman Glacier
Auckland cityscape
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EU N EW RASIA Z EAL SPECIAL AN D
W
e’ve wanted to tour New Zealand ever since we moved to Hong Kong from Europe more than 13 years ago. But to do such a trip justice, we knew we needed more than the ten days holiday that my husband usually takes for Christmas. Finally, when an extended leave opportunity came up, we, along with our three daughters aged 15, 13 and ten years, hit the road. Advance preparation involved self-booking all flights, accommodation and excursions, which did take a long time. The first issue was that we wanted to do everything. And this is, quite simply, not possible in one, two-and-a-half week trip. So we
re-hashed our original ‘bucket list’ and prioritised everything into a more approachable itinerary. Hours in front of the lap-top told us that taking some internal flights was going to be the only way to fit it all in. We flew out of Hong Kong to Auckland on an overnight flight and then transited onto a domestic flight to Christchurch. In Christchurch we hired a car. The original plan had been to hire a camper van, but as it was high season we couldn’t find a hire company that would allow us to pick-up in Christchurch and drop-off in Auckland, so we stuck with the car for our time on the South Island. From Christchurch we drove to Lake Tekapo for two nights, a small township about three hours south-west of Christchurch. We’d decided to stop off here for some relaxation after our longAsia Family Traveller 53
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The Armitage family at Tasman Glacier
haul flight. It’s also handily located close to Mount John Observatory, Mount Cook and the Tasman Glacier - I’m something of a geography nerd and couldn’t wait to see such a large glacier up close. Tekapo is a stunning, turquoise lake. The lupins were in full bloom when we arrived and it really was a case of ‘view fatigue’. Everywhere we looked was an instagram opportunity. We stayed in a cheap-but-comfortable two-bedroom cabin in the local holiday park, which was right next to the lake. The kids loved playing on the pebbly beach, we could walk into the local village for restaurants and a supermarket, and of course we could ramble around the lake. The main activity here for us was a trip with Glacier Explorers to the Tasman Glacier. The Tasman is the largest glacier in New Zealand and is located inside Mount Cook National Park. It’s one of several glaciers in the area that flow into the MacKenzie Basin from the Southern Alps. We were bused to the glacier park from a local hotel and from there we hiked 20 minutes to the glacier lake. A high-speed jet boat took us out onto the water. An adrenaline-boosting ride was mixed with exploration of the glacier itself at the point where it meets the lake. We got up-close-and-personal with the icebergs and handled ice that was millions of years old, all the while listening to the highly knowledgeable and entertaining guides. As a family excursion, I would highly recommend it. Next stop was Dunedin. Our goals here were to see the penguins and to take a look at the famous boulders on the beach at Oamaru. However, unbeknownst to us, Shania Twain was playing a onenight-only concert in town and there was absolutely nowhere to stay. I 54 Asia Family Traveller
was forced to book a motel in Waihola and discovered there is a good reason why nobody has heard of Waihola. The place is perhaps summed up by the sign that greets you as you arrive - ‘No Doctor, No Hospital, One Graveyard’. Allegedly there is a fabulous fish ‘n’ chip shop, but that, too, was shut, as all the staff had hot-footed it over to Dunedin to see Shania. And sadly we didn’t see a single penguin either. Better luck next time... This slight low point was followed by a stunning drive to Queenstown. We spent three nights here exploring the town and we also spent a full-day at nearby Milford Sound. We’d booked a decent-sized Airbnb and lucked out with a funky, industrial, artist’s house. It was a great space and perfectly located within walking distance of everything. Queenstown is nestled on the shores of Lake Wakatipu and is renowned for adventure sports. A high point for the kids was the luge run. But my highlight of the entire trip was heading out to the spectacular Milford Sound. We took a small plane from Queenstown airport and on arrival at Milford Sound, transferred onto a cruise. Over the course of two hours, we wandered around the boat, taking in the breathtaking views.
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Stunning mountain views in New Zealand’s South Island The kids enjoy a movie set tour in Glenorchy
Packing tips We travelled in the southern hemisphere summer, but even so it was very changeable. Dunedin was 12 degrees and wet and windy while Queenstown basked in 32 degrees and clear blue skies. However, as Scottish natives, we are used to four seasons in one day. Activewear was a big win, as we spent most of our time out and about. A pair of decent trainers was a must, as well as lightweight raincoats and thin fleeces for cooler days. New Zealand is very casual, so shorts and tee-shirts were acceptable in most places.
The kids loved… • Jet boating in Glenorchy • Eco zip-lining in Waiheke • The spaghetti in Wanaka
The kids enjoy a movie set tour in Glenorchy
Back at the cruise terminal, we transferred to a tiny plane for just the five of us and flew to Glenorchy, a small settlement at the northern end of Lake Wakatipu. There’s not much in the town, but the surrounding area has famously been used as the backdrop for a number of films, including The Fellowship of The Ring (the first film in The Lord of the Ring series), The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian, and X-Men Origins: Wolverine, as well as the BBC mini-series Top of The Lake. After a coffee in the sunshine, we were taken on a bus ride around the movie sets, with plenty of stops for photo opportunities. A guide took us on a beautiful Lord of the Rings woodland walk which the kids really enjoyed. Back on the bus, we headed to the River Dart for two fabulous hours whizzing around on a jet boat. The river boasted the clearest, freshest water we had ever seen and we were encouraged to fill our water bottles. The scenery was stunning, with mountains and glaciers on either side of us. We took way too many photos, but it was such a fun experience. Asia Family Traveller 55
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Chilling out in Wanaka (left); dolphin cruise in Auckland Opposite page - New Zealand’s breathtaking South Island
Mum and Dad loved… From Queenstown we travelled over the hills to Wanaka, where we stayed in a cabin with friends from Singapore who had flown down for a few nights. We enjoyed trips on the lake, a stunning morning horseback ride and also some quad biking. And we had a fun morning at the 3D museum in Wanaka. We then travelled back to Queenstown to jump on a flight to Auckland. On arrival in Auckland we did hire another car, but in retrospect we didn’t need it and ended up paying more in parking charges than we would have needed for taxi fares. We had a bit of a splurge here and stayed at the Sofitel on the harbour, with beautiful views over the marina. Auckland is small and easily walkable if you are staying centrally. The highlight here for us was the Auckland Whale & Dolphin Safari. It’s a scientific boat run by marine biologists who have been studying marine life in Auckland for many years. While we didn’t spot any whales, we did see many dolphin pods and entire families with calves. It was entrancing to watch and the bay was stunning. Waiheke Island Resort was our final destination. Ourselves and three other families took over four, two-bedroom lodges. It was basic but clean and comfortable and there was a lovely little pool with great views. However, there are a lot of steep lanes and stairs, so you might want to think twice with very young children, or elderly relatives in your party. A 15-minute walk down a winding lane led us to Palm Beach and it felt like we were miles away from the real world. We hung out on the beach and the kids played and explored and swam and lived off pizza and BBQ sausages for three days. It was wonderful and I would highly recommend it. 56 Asia Family Traveller
• The day-trip exploring the Milford Sound • Horse riding in Wanaka • Dolphin trip in Auckland
We enjoyed a group outing to the EcoZip Adventures and hikes over the vineyards. Three days and four nights here felt about right. It’s a pretty, sleepy island, and we all thoroughly enjoyed it. We fell in love with New Zealand and will definitely be back. Next time, I’d like to concentrate on the North Island. I would love to visit The Bay of Plenty and The Coromandel Peninsula, as well as Rotorua. It would also be lovely to head back to the South Island to go whale spotting at Kaikoura and to visit the vineyards of Marlborough.
Eating out Before I start on the restaurants we visited, I’d like to mention the coffee. New Zealand’s coffee is awesome; it’s impossible to order a bad cup. Our stand-out lunch of the trip was at Tantalus Estate, Waiheke Island. The food was fresh, local and beautifully presented. In Auckland, Botswana Butchery was delicious, combining wine and local produce from the Central Otago region. Wanaka was fabulous for funky little cafes serving great fusion food. Try the pork belly and avocado baos for breakfast...
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TALKING POINT
T
Bleach babies
With the coronavirus pandemic engulfing the world, Amelia Sewell masks-up to find out what airlines and airports are doing to stop the spread
he first time I flew with my son but without my husband was when the baby was five months old. The unfortunate stranger who was allocated to sit next to us took one look at the possible screaming machine cradled in my arms and promptly asked to move seats. Which was the wisest decision she ever made, because half-way through the flight my son sat on my lap and projectile vomited all over what would have been her seat. And everywhere else within a one-metre radius, including his mother. Obviously. Because Murphy’s Law says that just has to happen. Once the cabin crew and I had got things vaguely back to normal, there were a few hours left of the 58 Asia Family Traveller
flight, so my attention turned to the still-very-soiled seat next to me. And I remember wondering how the airline would possibly have time to get it properly cleaned and dried before the plane turned around and headed off on its next journey. I couldn’t see how the two-hour turn was ever going to be enough to get that thing shipshape and sanitised. I never figured out the answer but have since reasoned that ignorance was probably bliss. Battling, as the entire world is, the current coronavirus pandemic, the hygiene of air travel has never had such a spotlight shone on it. So what is being done by airports and airlines to up their game and keep travellers safe in the current climate? And are you really more likely to pick up the virus when flying? Before we dive into that, it’s
important to remember that this is a ‘novel’ virus, meaning it hasn’t previously been identified and therefore its behaviour is not fully known by the specialists. So if the professionals are still a bit hazy on the specifics, the rest of us should expect to be dealing with a fair few unknowns too. However, as far as contracting it goes, the Centre for Disease Control and Infection (CDC) is currently advising that COVID-19 is thought to spread “between people who are in close contact with one another (within about six feet)”. Which is why social distancing as well as sneezing or coughing into a tissue are the main messages. Crucially, at the time of writing, it is not believed to be airborne, but is instead caught from the respiratory droplets and secretions of coughs and sneezes. As these
droplets are heavy, they do not travel very far and therefore do not enter circulating air. The CDC goes on to say that it may be possible for a person to contract COVID-19 by touching a surface or object that has the virus on it and then touching their own mouth, nose, and possibly their eyes, “but this is not thought to be the main way the virus spreads.” So what does this mean for air travel? Well the first thing to address is the airborne bit because it seems that, even when not considering the coronavirus, there’s a general flying myth that needs dispelling. I am one of the many people who steps off a plane, promptly gets a cold and then declares that it’s because of all the dirty recycled air on the aircraft. But it turns out that this concept does not stand up to science.
TALKING POINT
Most aircraft are fitted with High Efficiency Particulate Arrestor (HEPA) filtration systems. These are the same filters that are used in hospital operating theatres and intensive care units. According to a Cathay Pacific spokesman, these filters are capable of filtering “99.999% of dust particles and airborne contaminants such as viruses and bacteria, ensuring the highest possible cabin air quality.” British Airways and Hong Kong Airlines both state the same of their own filtration systems. So in relation to the coronavirus specifically, even if it is airborne, the high grade filtration system of the planes should eliminate it. But what about the cleaning schedules on planes? Have the airlines done anything different to combat the coronavirus? It is impossible to get an exact measure on this because cleaning isn’t a practice that is easily quantifiable. The standard response from most airlines is that in normal situations all planes are cleaned between each flight, while during the current crisis they are being “thoroughly” cleaned. What counts as “thoroughly” cleaned is open to opinion but all state that hard surfaces in the cabin, from baby bassinets and television screens to armrests and overhead lockers, are wiped down, in addition to the bathrooms and communal areas. As most airlines are offering a skeleton service at the moment and therefore have longer turn around times, one imagines that they have more time than normal to make sure sanitation is sparkling. We have to hope that they learnt their lesson from a 2015 study which analysed aeroplane germs on a square inch basis. This research found that, of all places in the cabin, it was the tray table – the thing sitting right in front of you at hand level throughout the flight– that was the most
Emirates had enhanced its disinfecting procedures before the entire fleet was grounded last month
THE HYGIENE OF AIR TRAVEL HAS NEVER HAD SUCH A SPOTLIGHT SHONE ON IT
germ-ridden part of the entire plane; eight times more than the flush button in the loo. Which is enough to make Naomi Campbells of us all. Cathay has been one of the most proactive airlines since the outbreak, publishing a ten point explanation on its website about their approach and the changes it has made to inflight services as well as provisions in the lounges. The airline also states that the chemicals and products it uses are recommended by the International Air Transport Association (IATA) and the World Health Organization (WHO). Should Cathay discover a confirmed case after landing, that plane is then removed from service and deep cleaned. “This includes the replacement of all seat covers, disinfection of all surfaces and galley equipment,
detailed cleaning of the lavatories, disinfection of carpets, sterilisation of the water system and replacement of air filters in addition to standard cleaning procedures,” said a spokesperson. And the airports? It would be no surprise to anyone that Hong Kong International Airport has been one of the most efficient in rolling out new measures to combat any virus spread. Working with the Department of Health, the Airport Authority has instigated quarantine areas, designated specific parking bays for flights from regions with greater outbreaks and introduced temperature checks for all departing, arriving and transiting passengers. Visitors, airport staff and crew are all subjected to the same requirements. Not all airports have been quite as quick out of the blocks. London’s Heathrow has talked about deep cleans and Sydney states that it has increased its public messaging, but Hong Kong is certainly leading the way. So where does that leave us? Parking entirely the reasons why people might need or want to fly at the moment, the logical conclusion to this information is as follows. Recycled onboard air is unlikely
to be a problem. According to the CDC’s current thinking, touching a contaminated surface could lead to transfer and as this cannot be ruled out, we need to keep going with the Happy Birthday hand washing – a practice that will surely now live with us forever. But above all, the primary problem with travel of any description right noaw, whether that be trains, buses, aeroplanes, metros or even just stepping into a lift to go and get lunch, is the chance of close proximity to others.
RESEARCH POINTS TO THE TRAY TABLE BEING EIGHT TIMES MORE GERM-RIDDEN THAN THE FLUSH BUTTON IN THE LOO
But humans don’t tend to be very good at living solitary, sedate lives. We’re used to getting up and going somewhere and doing it with company. So this is proving a challenge for us all. Asia Family Traveller 59
GROWN-UP GETAWAYS
Here be dragons
Getting up-close with the Komodo dragons had long been on the wish list of Singapore-based photographer Anna Schulteisz. Last year, she finally took the plunge with a group of friends on a stunning cruise around the Indonesian islands of Flores, Komodo and Rinca
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Previous page - sunrise over Padar Island Left - a Komodo dragon sunbathing on Rinca Island
Setting sail on from Flores
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Watching the sun come up over Komodo National Park is unforgettable experiance
t’s hot work as we hike over the tiny island of Rinca. But as we pick our way along the paths, the vast indigo blue of the Flores Sea and Indian Ocean stretching before us, we are regaled with dragon tales by our guide. Sightings are not guaranteed, and we’re told there is plenty of other wildlife to look out for. But then, as we turn a corner, there they are - a cluster of giant lounging lizards, soaking up the sunshine. There’s a frenzy of phototaking as we all try to capture the scene before us. It’s an ‘Instamoment’ as the dragons, who we’ve previously only ever seen on David Attenborough-narrated documentaries and the main reason for booking this trip, lie stretched out before us. Rinca is one of the three largest islands in Komodo National Park, the other two being Padar and Komodo.. It’s famous for the park’s eponymous dragons, giant lizards that measure up to three metres and can weigh up to 70 kgs. Because of their size, they dominate the local ecosystem, hunting and ambusing local prey. Two glands in their lower jaw secrete several toxic poisons. They are a force of nature to be reckoned with. We’d been informed that Rinca is a better choice than its more famous neighbour, Komodo, for viewing the beasts. Komodo Island has been inundated with tourists recently, prompting a sharp rise in entrance fees to the national park. Rinca is a quieter option. Komodo National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site located 62 Asia Family Traveller
off the coast of Flores and Sumbawa Islands in the centre of the Indonesian archipelago. I’d wanted to visit for a long time but it was last year, when Indonesia’s president, Joko Widodo, announced that it was now one of the top ten up-and-coming tourist destinations to visit in Indonesia, that I decided it was time to cross it off my to-do list. Hearing that my friends had also planned the same trip during the April public holidays, myself and my husband decided to team up with our Aussie besties and rent a boat to island-hop our way around Komodo National Park. We chose wisely as the dry season starts in April and lasts until December, while the rainy season stretches from January till March. As there are no direct flights from Singapore, we decide to stop over in Bali for a day instead of Jakarta and begin our journey by chilling out on the Island of the Gods and generally getting into the island groove. The following morning, we catch a tiny plane with Garuda Indonesia to Labuan Bajo where all Komodo Island cruises embark. Upon arrival we check in with our tour operator (LePirate) and are
GROWN-UP GETAWAYS
The morning hike on Rinca Island was strenuous but rewarding
offered breakfast, refreshments and an introduction of our trip by our lovely ship captain and tour guide, Harry. After a short jeep ride to the pier, we realize that the catamaran we booked is large enough for everyone to settle in comfortably and allow plenty of personal space (it can accommodate up to ten people and we are just five). It’s basic, but spacious and clean, and is a ‘no emissions’ vessel that runs on and solar energy. Bathroom facilities are basic and to minimise freshwater usage, the shower uses seawater. The bedrooms on the top deck are divided with tarpaulin, which gives everything a bit of a ‘camping vibe’, and in the evening you can open up all the rooms and fall asleep gazing at the stars. The crew is also happy to accommodate route changes and deviations - you don’t have to follow a strict agenda. Once we’ve set sail, we enjoy reclining on the loungers on nets as the water rushes by underneath us. Our first stop is Rinca to see the dragons, and once we’ve had our fill of taking photos and snapping up dragon-themed souvenirs, we are back on board the boat. The remainder of the day is spent listening to music, reading books and playing board games as we cruise to Padar Island, a small dot of land nestled between Komodo and Rinca. The next day we are rudely awakened by each other’s alarm clocks at 5am in order to catch the sunrise. The morning hike up the steep hill takes around 30 minutes, a shock to the system at that time of day. But at the top we are rewarded with breath-taking vistas over what I can only describe as Jurassic Park, a land lost in time. Already at 7am the sun is scorching hot, so we decide to cool off at a nearby deserted beach. No one is around to judge us as we blast our favourite guilty pleasure 80’s music and float around on inflatable unicorns and pineapples. The fun factor is ramped right up. Of course no trip to Komodo Island is complete without a stopover at Pink Beach, the insta-worthy shore where the eroded red coral turns the sand rosy.
Our home during the trip anchored at Pink Beach
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The sandbank in the middle of nowhere Scores of bats flying towarrd Flores Island Swim with Manta rays and turtles Snorkelling is the best way to discover the lively coral reefs Floating around in the sea
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The group booked with tour operator Le Pirate. They flew from Singapore to Labuan Bajo via Bali, although you can also transfer in Jakarta. The trip ran for four days and three nights and prices start around US$500 per cabin for three nights. Included in the price are all meals - mostly Indonesian dishes - and freeflow coffee, tea and water. Alcoholic drinks are offered in packages and you can also bring your own. Additional costs included park entrance fees and a cash tip for the crew.
Things we loved • Snorkelling with manta rays and turtles • The incredible biodiversity of the local reefs • The sense of freedom while sailing
As locations go, it’s stunning, but Harry tells us that there is a pink sandbank which is less crowded and worth the visit, so we hop back on the boat and within an hour we arrive at a true paradise on Earth. I grab my goggles and plunge into the crystal clear, turquoise waters, only to discover the most beautiful, lively coral reef I’ve ever seen. I encounter myriad fish, sea urchins, starfish and even reef sharks as they parade before me in the cool water. In an age of climate change and habitat depletion, it’s incredible to find an underwater world like this still exists. All too soon it’s time to leave and we set sail to Manta Point. Here, we snorkel with massive manta rays and turtles, another incredible experience. We finish the day at Kalong Island, where we arrive just in time to see thousands of bats start their daily commute to Flores (some thirty kilometers away) where they feed during the night before returning at dawn. We eat breakfast the next morning watching mantas doing air flips. It’s another magical destination which again is hard to leave. After stopping for a final snorkel, we arrive back in Labuan Bajo and settle into our room for our last night. The hotel is modern and cool and overlooks the harbour, so we enjoy a round of cocktails watching the sun dip into the ocean before hitting the local night market for dinner.
Top - snorkelling is the main activity on the cruise Above - Sailing towards 'Bat Island' Left - Fresh seafood at the Labuan Baho night market
It was wonderful to have experienced this trip with good friends. We all board our flights concluding it was perhaps the best group trip we’ve taken and vow that we will certainly do it again, maybe next time ticking off another bucket list contender, Raja Ampat. Asia Family Traveller 65
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TRAVEL STATS
E XPAT T RAVE L L I NG M UM
High and dry
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Our mum finds herself marooned with four children, five laptops and a super-size bottle of Dettol
have come to the conclusion that I did, indeed, used to have a really fun life. Not an A-list celebrity or Duchess of Cambridge sort of fun life, with unlimited frocks and really quite nice jewellery, but a fun life in a “let’s go on holiday”, or “let’s go out for dinner”, or “let’s just meet some friends for drinks,” kind of a way. It’s true, you never truly appreciate something until it’s gone. These days my horizons have shrunk to getting through Year 6 maths and twice daily (sometimes thrice daily) trips to Fusion. The pain starts early. I am currently held hostage in my own home by four constantly ravenous, home-schooling children. These days I don’t dare leave my bedroom until I’m fully showered, dressed and made up. The perils of Zoom are everywhere and I no longer dare to roam mascara-free in my own living room. There are rumours that a couple of our primary teachers have seen a little ‘more’ of certain parents than maybe they should have done in recent weeks. So these days my rather baggy M&S nightie is very firmly relegated to the confines of the master bedroom. In the kitchen the Sporty Child is ‘live’ with her science class. At the dining table the Boy Child is in ‘Home Room’ (or registration as we used to call it). I’m greeted with much
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“shhing” and loud whispers of “can’t you stay in your bedroom, mum?” Every surface in the kitchen is covered in dirty utensils or bits of food. There’s some sort of indistinguishable green sludge congealing on the bottom of the Nutribullet cup (the Teen Child).
corruption mean?” she yells, appearing at the top of the stairs in a pair of my yoga pants and one of her dad’s old hoodies. I suspect it could be her who filched my conditioner yesterday. “And who’s Pope Alexander X?” she continues to shout. I lead her back upstairs to
Expat Travelling Mum lives in Hong Kong with her four travel-loving children and a weary husband
Remnants of burned bacon litter a discarded frying pan (the Boy Child). Spilled milk, rogue Shreddies and a banana skin lie scattered across the workbench (the Blonde Child). I decide it might be easier just to slip out for my morning coffee. I know we’re supposed to be avoiding restaurants and things these days but the thought of a nice latte in a relatively empty cafe with nobody shouting into a laptop is almost too much to bear. Just as I’m thinking about sliding my jacket on, the Blonde Child’s dulcet tones ricochet down the stairs. “What does
spend the next hour-anda-half desperately trying to conjure forth my A-level History curriculum. It’s a bit patchy, but at least by the end of it she knows what a corrupt pope is. I slip back downstairs to escape for my coffee, but as I pass the Teen Child’s bedroom door, I notice she’s still in bed. “Morning!” I wave. “Oh my god, this tik tok is sooo funny!” she guffaws. “Are you not supposed to be working?” I tentatively ask. “Oh yeah,” she says, looking up momentarily from the phone. “We had this mental health thing
in class yesterday, and they said if we were feeling a bit, you know, like stressed and stuff, we should take it easy.” “Oh right,” I muster. “Well, no, you shouldn’t let yourself get stressed.” Oh my god, I think. All the Teen Child does these days is lie around on her phone, or lie around on her phone at her best mate’s house. And when they’re not making tik tok videos, they’re watching back-to-back episodes of Gogglebox. How can she possibly be stressed? “Do you think you might find cleaning up your breakfast things a little bit meditative, perhaps?” I suggest. “What?” she grunts, giving me one of those teen looks that basically says ‘are you completely mental?’. “Don’t worry,” I sigh, continuing down the stairs. I look at the calendar. Right now, in another world, or another universe, I would be packing for a holiday in Perth. The Sporty Child would be playing netball in Shanghai and the Teen Child would be on a language immersion week in France. The Boy Child would be happily kicking his lunchbox around the school playground in Kowloon Tong and the Blonde Child would be safely packed away at boarding school in England. Wearily, I wash my hands, hook on a facemask and mentally add another bottle of Dettol to the Fusion shopping list.
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