Asia Family Traveller February & March 2020 by Asia Family Traveller

february / march 2020

HK$35/S$6/US$4 Printed in Hong Kong

Big adventures for little people

New year, new horizons

Camel train

Dingos and dunes

Fly â&#x20AC;&#x2122;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; flop

adventures in Mongolia

off-roading in Oz

spa escapes for mums Asia Family Traveller

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Asia Family Traveller 3

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Editor Carolynne Dear carolynne@asiafamilytraveller.com

Art Director Anna Schulteisz anna@asiafamilytraveller.com

Sales & Marketing Manager Enoch To sales@asiafamilytraveller.com

Digital Editor Gayatri Bhaumik hello@asiafamilytraveller.com

Consultant Editor Adele Brunner

Web Design & Technical Support TeamAlfy.com

Online asiafamilytraveller.com Facebook @AsiaFamilyTraveller Instagram @asiafamilytraveller Twitter @family_kong Asia Family Traveller is published bi-monthly by Penn & Ink Communications Limited. The content provided here is the property of Penn & Ink Communications Limited and no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without permission in writing from the Publisher. While the editors do their best to verify information published, Penn & Ink Communications Limited, its editors and its writers do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. The information provided by Penn & Ink Communications Limited’s contributors do not necessarily reflect the views of the Publisher or the company. The information here is provided in good faith but Penn & Ink Communications Limited bears no responsibility or liability for any recommendations or advice offered.

hello

E DI TO R ' S NOT E

OUR TEAM

from the editor’s desk

ung Hei Fat Choi, Gong Xi Fa Cai, Happy New Year and welcome to the very first issue of Asia Family Traveller! As a resident of Hong Kong and a mother of four children, I have been lucky enough to have spent many years enjoying Asia and all that it has to offer as a family travel destination. From culture, to adventure, or holidays where all we wanted to do was relax on a white sandy beach, this spectacular area of the world has spoilt us. No matter how big or small the trip, travel creates long-lasting memories. According to neuropsychologists, travel and travel memories even have the power to shape our personality. We retain travel memories all our lives, as they are so often associated with positive emotions. And according to research, more than half of what we remember is time spent with family and friends. I hope that Asia Family Traveller will inspire and inform, giving you, our readers, the best possible recommendations and advice for creating your very own special family memories.

This issue we’ve travelled from Central Asia to the Indian Ocean, and from Australia to southeast Asia. Wherever you’re reading this, we hope you enjoy the journey!

Contributors

AMELIA SEWELL

MARIANNE ROGERSON

KATE FARR

Where’s your top Asian familyfriendly destination? Nothing beats Phuket with young children. It's got everything you need to do nothing at all - beach bars, massages and baby equipment hire.

Where’s your top Asian familyfriendly destination? Hoi An in central Vietnam as I can’t get enough of the food there! If I had it my way, I would always stay at the Nam Hai Four Seasons.

Where’s your top Asian familyfriendly destination? Fusion Resorts in Cam Ranh, Vietnam. There’s a fun, beachside kids' club for the boys, a great coral reef for my dive-mad husband - and allinclusive spa time for me.

@bundlesewell

@hungrymaz

@katefarrwrites Asia Family Traveller 5

CONTENTS

REGULARS On the cover

Welcome to our launch issue, where we'll be taking plenty of time out to relax. Check out the white sandy beaches of Asia Pacific and some top spa spots for mums.

In the loop

Dive action in the Maldives and Belize

On our radar

Small toys for long journeys

Holiday hacks

The bluffers guide to public holidays

Weather watch

Where’s hot and where’s not this spring

Reading matter

Always travel with a good book

Hot & happening

Tops spots for 2020

Around-the-world

Travel diary of a family on the move

Talking point

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Holiday challenges for differently-abled kids

Dining adventures

Hong Kong’s new foodie waterfront

Grown-up getaways

Spa treats for weary mums

Expat travelling mum

It’s not all sandy beaches and swaying palms

IN THIS ISSUE FEATURES 34

Carry on Glamping

Canvas holidays with attitude

Hotel review

Siem Reap's new grande dame

Shipwrecked

Washed up on Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s east coast

Maldives glamour

Corals and cocktails in the Indian Ocean

Mongolian moves

Time-out with nomadic tribes

Kazakh adventures

Discovering Central Asia

February / March 2020

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Takeaways this issue

China's Terracotta Army has grown with an exciting excavation of new warriors, find out more on page 9. Bali descends into an incredible 24 hours of silence this spring, even the airport closes. Find out why and when on page 17. Time to knock sunscreen OFF the packing list. A number of countries will soon be banning it, find out where on page 12. Fraser Island boasts a 'perched' lake, a lake that is made up entirely of rainwater. More on page 44. Forget the allotment, Western Mongolia is the place to be looking for wild rhubarb, see page 54.

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TRAVEL NEWS 08

Australian wildlife is under threat following the country's horrific bushfires, find out how you can help

Hong Kong's Ocean Park is offering a raft of perks to raise dwindling visitor numbers

Suncream is set to be banned around the world in a bid to save coral reefs

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I N T H E K NOW MALDIVES MAGIC The weather in the Maldives is perfect at this time of year. Blue skies and negligible rainfall mean great visibility for diving and in March the surf season begins. But where to head? Kurumba Maldives is positioning itself as the perfect getaway if you’ve got kids in tow. The resort is a snappy ten minute speedboat ride from the international airport in Male - so no expensive seaplane transfers. And the secluded Majaa Club offers a packed kids' club schedule, enabling mum and dad to confidently sneak away for some downtime. Children’s activities include getting involved with the resort’s Coral Restoration Program and the Kurumba Marine Team Program. The resort also boasts a vibrant house reef and white sandy beaches - not to mention the obligatory swaying palms and crystal clear waters. Kurumba Maldives is offering savings of up to 49% on accommodation on holidays from now until October 31, 2020. Further benefits include early check-in and a 30-minute photo shoot with printed photo. kurumba.com

BUSHFIRE RESCUE Sydney’s Taronga Zoo reports it is caring for an ‘unprecedented’ number of injured and rescued wildlife impacted by this season’s devastating bushfires. Animals rescued include koalas, bats, wallabies and echidnas. Throughout the crisis, Taronga has been involved in numerous emergency response operations and is now providing shelter, medical care and rehabilitation for displaced and injured animals. These include 12 genetically valuable koalas rescued from the path of fire in the Blue Mountains, a number of orphaned, heat-affected grey-headed flying foxes and platypus rescued from 10 Asia Family Traveller

drying river systems. “After we have dealt with the imminent crisis, we will settle in for the long haul and use our unique skills in small population management and breed and release programmes,” said Cam Kerr, chief executive officer of Taronga Conservation Society Australia. In November, Taronga launched a Koala Emergency Appeal to ensure the ongoing survival of koalas in the wake of the bushfire crisis. Contributions to this appeal are critical if the species is to be safeguarded. To donate, go to taronga.org.au/ savewildlife

CHECKING IN

Stansted Airport The British airport is trialling compostable security bags for passengers carrying liquids in their hand luggage. Passengers have been required to place liquids, aerosols and gels in clear plastic bags since 2006 and the airport says it gets through 11 million bags each year. The airport is also cutting waste by donating items surrendered at security to local food banks.

In-flight dining

Artist's impression of Doha's airport expansion

Hamad International Airport in Doha is to expand ahead of the 2022 Football World Cup. Construction is due to start this year and the project will increase the airport’s capacity to more than 53 million passengers annually by 2022. Further extension work will begin in 2022. The current project includes an indoor tropical garden and water feature, similar to that of Singapore Changi Airport’s Jewel

which opened earlier last year boasting tropical gardens and the world’s tallest indoor waterfall. The 10,000sqm garden will be located in a central concourse along with a 267sqm water feature. The space will also include 11,000sqm of retail and food and beverage outlets. The flora and fauna for the space will be brought in from sustainable forests around the world.

WAR GAMES China-based news agencies are reporting the discovery of a further 200 terracotta warrior soldiers. The find was made as part of a ten-year excavation of one of the three major pits containing the figures. All the soldiers discovered so far are well-preserved, with distinct expressions and physical features. Further relics including clay horses, chariots, shields, bronze swords and other weapons have also been uncovered.

The Terracotta Army was first chanced upon in 1974 when farmers digging a well uncovered a lifesize clay soldier. Subsequent excavations revealed an army of 2,000-year-old clay warriors. Archaeologists believe around 7,000 warriors in total were buried alongside Emperor Qin Shi Huang, who reigned between 221 and 210BC. It is believed the soldiers were placed there to protect Qin Shi Huang in the afterlife. The Terracotta Army can be viewed at the Terracotta Warriors Museum in Xi’an, China.

Qatar Airways has overhauled its economy dining menus, including its kids’ meals. Children’s dishes have been selected based on a study group of children of 15 nationalities. Youngsters on-board will be offered healthy juices, snacks, fruits and a toy. The new menus are part of Quisine, the airline’s upgraded dining experience, available on all China-bound flights (including Hong Kong).

- CHECKING OUT Aussie wildlife Australia’s devastating bushfires have decimated the local animal population, with estimates about the number of victims running into the billions. Asia Family Traveller has lent its support to WIRES (NSW Wildlife Information, Rescue and Education Service), the country’s largest wildlife rescue operation. If you’d like to donate, go to wires.org.au

Ocean Park Hong Kong Following months of political unrest, the popular theme park saw a 60% plunge in visitor numbers between July and December last year. In an effort to get back on track, it’s now offering exclusive promotions for Hong Kongers, including free entry for kids under 11 years until March 31. It has also launched a nightly, HK$100 million light show featuring flaming jets, music and stage performances. Let’s hope it can turn things around.

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I N T H E K NOW

DOHA WARMS UP FOR FOOTBALL WORLD CUP

I N T H E K NOW

Diving the stunning waters of Belize

INTO THE BLUE Adventure holiday specialist Aggressor Adventures is offering a 25% discount for junior divers in the Caribbean this summer. Kids aged five to 17 years taking part in a Family Week diving safari are eligible for the offer. Family Weeks combine a fun, safe and educational programme

- plus the opportunity to spend quality time together as a family. Activities are organized - and supervised - throughout the day and into the evening and there’s also a free ‘Intro to Scuba’ course. The Belize Aggressor IV Family Week runs July 25 to August 1. aggressor.com

WAVE OF NEW HOTELS SET FOR PHILIPPINES

The Philippines is set to welcome new international hotel brands this year (below)

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Asia Pacific’s largest hotel group, Accor, is planning to increase its presence in The Philippines to 22 hotels over the next five years. This is an increase of 14 new properties. “With nine hotels signed to date, we have doubled our existing portfolio in just over nine months,” said Andrew Langdon, Accor’s senior vice president of development - Asia. The 14 hotels will include

six brands that are new to the country; Pullman Living, MGallery, Swissotel, Novotel Living and Ibis Styles. The Philippines is already home to Raffles, Fairmont, Sofitel, Movenpick, Novotel and Mercure, all chains under the Accor umbrella. Accor opened 128 hotels in Asia Pacific last year. The group launches, on average, a new hotel every three days in the region.

I N T H E K NOW

HUGE SKI NETWORK PLANNED FOR ITALY

The Dolomites in Italy are a mecca for skiers

According to reports, Italy is set to create what it says would be the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest skiing network. The project is planned for the Dolomites and would include 1,300kms of pistes linking with existing ski resorts and lifts. It forms part of plans for the 2026 Winter Olympics which are being jointly hosted by the Dolomites resort of Cortina dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ampezzo and Milan. It is hoped that by building more lifts and ski stations, the number of cars and coaches on mountain roads will reduce. However, environmentalists are concerned about new lifts and cable cars being built in pristine mountain valleys. The Dolomites hold UNESCO World Heritage status.

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I N T H E K NOW

TOKYO AIRPORT EXPANSION

BEST VALUE DESTINATIONS IN THE YEAR OF THE RAT If you’re looking for a bargain villa holiday, Perth, Chiang Mai, Goa and Sri Lanka are the places to be heading. According to a recent study, these destinations are currently the cheapest to holiday in, with some villa rentals coming out at less than US$200 per night. The findings were uncovered by villa rental agent, Villa Finder. Since its last market research study in 2017, the Asia Pacific villa market has expanded by 12%. Goa has experienced the strongest growth since 2017 with villa rental demand rising by 23%. It is predicted the market will continue to grow in 2020. Australia came out as one of the best

value destinations owing to its favourable currency exchange rate. Perth’s properties on the west coast were around 60% cheaper than Byron Bay and Sydney on the more populous east coast. Other up-and-coming markets included Japan, New Zealand, Vietnam and Malaysia. Vietnam and Malaysia are expected to be among the fastest growing markets in 2020. Meanwhile, Thailand has been marked out as a struggling destination. The Thai villa market has dropped since 2017 and increasing numbers of new-build rental properties have saturated the market.

A fishy business in Palau

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Japan’s Haneda Airport is set to open a mixed-use complex dubbed Haneda Airport Garden this spring. The completion of the project coincides with the opening of the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. The new addition to the airport will include two hotels, a hot spring zone and a shopping mall. It will link directly with the International Terminal. The 2,000 square metre natural hot spring area will be located on the top floor of the new Villa Fontaine Premier Haneda Airport Hotel, with views over Mount Fuji and the airport’s runways. It will be open 24-hours a day offering an open-air bath, indoor baths, hot stone spas and relaxation rooms. Meanwhile, the shopping mall will host 60 shops and 30 food and beverage outlets, including a food court. Stroller rental will be available at the new omotenashi (hospitality) centre.

SLIP, SLAP, BUT NO SLOP The Pacific island of Palau has become the first country in the world to ban ‘reef-toxic’ sunscreen. From January 2020, sun cream containing ten damaging ingredients, including ultraviolet light absorbing oxybenzone and octinoxate, will be prohibited. The island, which is located midway between Japan and Australia, prides itself on being a ‘pristine paradise’ for divers. One of the lagoons in Palau’s Rock Islands is a UNESCO World Heritage site. But Palau’s dive sites are becoming increasingly popular with tourists and there are concerns that a build-up of chemicals commonly found in sun creams would cause irreparable damage to the reefs. “We have to live and respect the environment because the environment is the nest of life, and without it nobody on Palau can survive,” said the country’s president,Tommy Remengesau. Any reef-toxic sunscreen imported or sold in Palau will be confiscated and the owner fined US$1,000. Other destinations around the world that will be introducing a similar ban include the US Virgin Islands in March this year and Hawaii in 2021.

H OT L I ST

Entertain me Got a trip coming up? Here’s our travel toy edit. By Florentyna Sue My Super Fun Playbook by Smart Mama I love this book because it’s been a big hit with kids from two years old right through to six years. It’s a soft cloth book, so it looks like it’s aimed at infants and toddlers, but the twelve pages are crammed with challenging activities. Favourites include tic tac toe, role playing, finger puppets and create your own pizza. smarterconcepts.com.hk

Go Happy Travel Tray

Colourlogue by Luckies of London This is a colouring journal from the designers of Scratch Maps. It includes maps, guides and flags, all based around colouring, and is great for kids to keep track of all the places they’ve visited. luckiesoflondon.co.uk

Hong Kong gift boutique The Lion Rock Press has launched some fun travel accessories this spring

Sticky Track Build-your-own-track washi tape fits in your pocket and instantly adds some entertainment to the plainest of hotel rooms. The tape is made from rice paper and printed with non-toxic ink. It’s safe, environmentally-friendly and reusable. Simply use the sticky tape to create a road, railway or runway - and add toy vehicles.

A mum from San Francisco designed this clever tray to make sure her kids were kept busy in their own personal space. If you’re a crafty parent, it’s handy to have at home, but it really comes into its own when you’re travelling or in a confined space. The surface acts as a dry erase white board, with raised borders to stop pens and toys falling off. It has a grippy ‘bottom’ and adjustable straps so it stays put on plane and train tables. It’s also BPA, PVC and Phthalate-free. gohappykids.com

Chess by Kikkerland Let’s face it, chess is a winner and being able to play is a skill kids will be able to enjoy throughout their lives. This version is small enough to pack in your purse. It’s been fantastic for pulling out at family gatherings and getting some inter-generational interaction going. And if chess isn’t your thing, there are Checkers and Dominoes versions, too. kikkerland.com

Hong Kong Wildlife Bingo Designed to celebrate the incredible biodiversity of Hong Kong, this fun game is suitable for all ages and can be played with up to eight people. Each beautifully illustrated species card has a challenge fact, which helps kids learn more about the animals to be found in the territory of Hong Kong. There’s also a wildlife guide for players who really love to geek out. thelionrockpress.com

Florentyna Sue is founder of online kids’ travel boutique, Wandercubs. If you have a product you’d like her to review, reach out at hello@asiafamilytraveller.com

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I N T H E K NOW 16 Asia Family Traveller

I NDO NE S I A

FLOAT YOUR BOAT Enjoy some of the best coral in the world at Wakatobi. The luxe, family-friendly dive resort is located in southwest Sulawesi, Indonesia, and reached by private direct guest flight from Bali. The resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s house reef, just a short swim from the beach, has won the accolade of best shore dive in the world. And the expansive local reef system includes shallow and deeper coral formations that accommodate everyone, from young and novice snorkellers to veteran divers. Along with a fleet of launches that make daily trips to more than 40 sites within the marine preserve, Wakatobi also offers a 22m boat custom-configured for families. Included are meals and refreshments, a shaded deck and a dive and snorkelling guide. Plus there's the opportunity for mum and dad to dive alone while youngsters nap under the watchful eye of the crew. wakatobi.com

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I NDO NE S I A

SILENCE IS GOLDEN Balinese boys celebrating Nyepi, the Balinese Day of Silence that occurs in March. The event also marks the start of the Hindu new year. Restaurants close, the beaches empty and restrictions are placed on travel, entertainment, eating and talking as the entire

island observes this religious time of self-reflection and contemplation. Non-Hindus and tourists are also expected to respect the occasion. Even Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s airport shuts for the day. This year Nyepi begins at 6am on March 25 and ends at 6am on March 26.

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T H A I L AND

PATTAYA PIT-STOP The Thai seaside resort of Pattaya is set for expansion over the next few years, with new hotels and faster transport links in the pipeline. A high-speed bullet train linking Pattaya with Bangkok is scheduled to start running in 2023, reducing the journey time to just 45 minutes. Transferring between Bangkok airport and the popular resort currently involves a tedious shuttle bus of over an hour.

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I N T H E K NOW

High days and holidays Good news this year for both Hong Kong and the Lion City, with plenty of public holidays happening around weekends. Here’s our guide for a year full of travel

SINGAP ORE Good Friday

Labour Day

Friday April 10

Friday May 1

Where to head - Malacca on the west coast of Malaysia is just a four-hour drive (hire a driver or catch a luxury bus). Take a stroll around town and take in the colonial architecture followed by great food in the night markets.

Where to head The Tioman Islands are gorgeous for a long weekend. Catch a ferry from Mersing and enjoy great snorkelling and diving, or just chill on the beach.

Vesak Day

Hari Raya Puasa

Thursday May 7

Sunday May 24

Where to head - Pack a picnic and catch the ferry (or organize a junk) to St John’s Island and head to Lazarus Island Beach. The sand is white and the water is crystal clear. There are no grocery stores on the island, so don’t forget supplies.

Where to head - Perth is a snappy four-hour flight and there’s no time difference. Take a day trip to Rottnest Island to check out the cheeky quokkas and shop up a storm in Fremantle markets.

Hari Raya Haji Friday July 31 Where to head - Medan, the capital of North Sumatra in Indonesia, is only a one-and-a-half hour flight away. Stay in the city, or head out into the bush - a hike to Sipiso waterfall and a trip to Lake Toba are musts.

The day following Hari Raya Puasa Monday May 25

National Day

The day following National Day

Sunday August 9

Monday August 10

Where to head - fly over to Yogyakarta in Java, Indonesia. Set your alarm to catch the sunrise on Borobudur, check out Prambanan Temple and go cave-tubing at Goa Pindul.

Deepavali

Christmas Day

Saturday November 14

Friday December 25

Where to head - take it easy and rent a cabana on the sand at one of Sentosa’s beach clubs.

Where to head - Sri Lanka is a mere four-hour flight and the weather in Galle is beach-friendly at this time of year. Sightsee in town or enjoy the stunning beaches such as Hikkaduwa, where you can surf, snorkel or feed the turtles that swim up to the shore.

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Ching Ming Festival

Good Friday

The day following Good Friday

Easter Monday

Saturday April 4

Friday April 10

Saturday April 11

Monday April 13

Where to head - don’t go anywhere it’s Hong Kong Sevens!

Where to head - with four days to enjoy, Phuket is just a three-hour flight and hot and sunny at this time of year. Songkran Water Festival begins on April 13, so don’t forget your water pistols!

Birthday of the Buddha

Labour Day

Tuen Ng Festival

Thursday April 30

Friday May 1

Thursday June 25

Where to head - if you can ‘bridge’ the weekend by taking a leave of absence on Friday, head down to the Philippines. The flight is under two hours and the diving is great at this time of year.

Where to head Vietnam is warming up nicely. Da Nang is under two hours away and perfect for a three-day weekend.

Where to head - stay in Hong Kong and hire a junk to view the Dragon Boat racing.

Hong Kong Establishment Day Wednesday July 1 Where to head - a perfect opportunity for another midweek junk day in Hong Kong.

National Day

The day following Mid-Autumn Festival

Thursday October 1

Friday October 2

Where to head - if you can manage another leave of absence on Friday, take a four-hour flight to Bali on Wednesday evening and enjoy some beach-time and great eats in Seminyak.

Where to head - Koh Samui is just three hours from Hong Kong and throws up some good weather at this less crowded time of year. Hit the beaches and markets of Chaweng or head to the quieter, southside of the island.

The day following Chung Yeung Festival

Christmas Day

Boxing Day

Monday October 26

Friday December 25

Saturday December 26

Where to head - As the weather starts to cool, take the chance to check out historical Macau. Catch a ferry from Shuen Tak or a bus from Tung Chung and head to Old Taipa Village for some colonial Portuguese charm.

Where to head - bliss out in the Maldives. There’s nowhere more conducive to turkey salad on the beach! Male is a six-hour flight and the area enjoys dry season at this time of year.

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PUB L I C H O L I DAYS

HONG KONG

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WE AT H E R

Asia weather watch Brolly or bikini? What to pack this spring

Thailand

Vietnam

Expect clement conditions in most areas - this is the time to soak up the sun in the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s popular beach destinations, including Phuket, Koh Samui and Krabi. In March temperatures heat up further still as Thailand heads towards the hottest time of the year.

The Philippines

Rainfall is low in February and temperatures are comfortable, although the mercury is on the rise. By March, the heat really starts to pick up as summer approaches.

Expect cooler, wintery weather in the north. The central coast is just about to tip into summer, while the south remains warm and beachfriendly. March welcomes pleasant temperatures everywhere, combined with low rainfall.

Malaysia

Expect sunshine and blue skies across the majority of the country, although the monsoon-hit east coast experiences strong winds and heavy rainfall at this time. In March, the monsoon clears, leading to great weather across the whole country.

Indonesia

Cambodia

Rain is the order of the day everywhere in February. Bali is warm and humid with intense downpours and rough seas make diving inadvisable. In March the rain starts to ease off, although it remains humid.

Relatively cool temperatures make February an ideal month to visit, especially as rainfall is low. In March, things begin to heat up. This is the tail-end of the dry season, so expect a dry and dusty terrain.

Sri Lanka

Maldives Warm, dry weather prevails throughout the country with minimal rainfall. This is a great time of year to hit the beaches on the south and west coasts. March is even better, with fabulous weather across all regions.

February is the driest month of the year, so look out for fantastic dive conditions. In March, temperatures remain high and visibility is still good for diving. This month also sees the start of the surfing season.

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READING MATTER

Travel tales

Inspiration for parents The Vegan Travel Handbook

Atlas Obscura 2nd Edition: An Explorer’s Guide to the World’s Hidden Wonders

Lonely Planet Food Maybe you’ve been a vegan for years, maybe you’re travelling as a plant-based enthusiast for the first time. Either way, The Vegan Travel Handbook offers heaps of advice for discovering, planning and booking vegan-friendly adventures around the world. There’s expert advice on the best vegan restaurants, how to stay healthy on the road and how to order food with confidence. Plus there’s information on all the unmissable vegan tours, festivals and food trucks.

Joshua Foer This completely revised and updated second edition includes 120 new entries that offer readers even more of the most unusual, curious, bizarre and mysterious places on earth. This edition also includes a full-colour, gatefold Atlas Obscura road trip map, with a dream itinerary. Beautifully packaged and well researched, the book is filled with photographs, maps and charts. Perfect for the travel lover and curious reader in us all.

Stories of the Sahara

The Bigger Book of Everything

Sanmao Taiwanese author and adventurer Sanmao was born in China in 1943, when Taiwan was under martial law. She went on to live all over the world, including Chongquig, Spain, Germany, Canary Islands and Central America. In the 1970s she spent several years living in the Sahara with her Spanish husband. Stories of the Sahara is a travelogue, exploring her life in the desert, and was published at a time when China was beginning to look beyond its borders. This is the first time Stories of the Sahara has been published in English.

LANDMARK PRINCE’S Shop 326-328, 3/F Landmark Prince’s Building 10 Chater Road, Central Tel: 2522 1785

ifc MALL Shop 3092C, Podium Level 3 8 Finance Street, Central Tel: 2813 2770

EXCHANGE SQUARE Shop 305-07 One Exchange Square Central Tel: 2542 1133

LYNDHURST TERRACE Shop 1, G/F, 46 Lyndhurst Terrace Central Tel: 2970 3999

THREE PACIFIC PLACE Shop 4, Level B3 Three Pacific Place Wan Chai Tel: 2997 3018

www.bookazine.com.hk 26 Asia Family Traveller

Lonely Planet Dive into this know-it-all tome for to inspire you to better, safer, more exciting travel. Everything you ever needed to know when on the road and more. How do you wear a kilt? How do you exit a sinking car? How do you predict the weather? How do you dive for pearls? How do you serve tea the Japanese way?

TIMES SQUARE Shop 925, 9/F Times Square Causeway Bay Tel: 2521 1649

REPULSE BAY G/F, Shop G107C-D The Repulse Bay Arcade Repulse Bay Tel: 2750 1136

DISCOVERY BAY Shop 104B, Block A 1/F, DB Main Plaza Lantau Island Tel: 2987 1373

FESTIVAL WALK Shop UG-46 80 Tat Chee Avenue Kowloon Tong Tel: 2808 1901

of the k o o B month

Incredible Journeys

Too Small Tola

Levison Wood

Atinuke

Set out on 20 epic expeditions alongside real-life explorer, Levison Wood. Take in the Silk Road, medieval pilgrimages to the Holy Land and missions to the moon and the Mariana Trench. Wood shares his insights into adventuring, such as explaining what it’s really like to follow in the footsteps of Alexander the Great. The book is beautifully illustrated with maps detailing the routes and lots of detail to help bring the different cultures to life. The perfect gift for mini Marco Polos.

Tola lives in Lagos with her big brother Dapo, her big sister Moji and her Grandmummy. Tola is very small, but very determined, and proves to be stronger than she seems when she goes to market with Grandmummy and manages to carry a basket full of yams, vegetables, chilli pepper and fish. When the taps at home don’t work, Tola brings the water from the well. And she saves the day when Mr Abdul the tailor needs his goods to be delivered super-fast.

A House Without Walls

Winnie and Wilbur at Chinese New Year

Elizabeth Laird The powerful story of 13 year old Safiya and her family who have been driven out of Syria by civil war. Safiya knows she’s lucky to be alive, but it’s hard to feel grateful when she is now forced to look after her father and brother rather than go back to school. As the family struggles to rebuild their lives, Safiya realizes that her family has always been incomplete and it’s time to uncover the secrets that the war has kept buried.

Valerie Thomas Winnie the Witch and her sidekick Wilbur the cat make a welcome return when they decide to celebrate Chinese New Year. Everything is organised for a fabulous party. Family and friends are invited, the food is prepared and everyone is having fun. But when Winnie waves her wand to conjure up costumes for everyone, Wilbur goes missing. Will Winnie find Wilbur in time for the fireworks?

Big Cities Little Foodies Hong Kong Cheryl Yau Chepusova Explore and experience the city of Hong Kong through the much-loved theme of food. From assorted dim sum to wonton noodles, Big Cities Little Foodies serves up ten treats from local cuisine with big, bold and colourful illustrations. This is a visual board book for globe-trotting families to share and it’s sure to whet the appetite of children and parents alike. Hong Kong bookstore Bookazine will be welcoming author Cheryl Yau Chepusova for a book signing at their Prince’s Building store on February 15.

The Proudest Blue

Where’s the Royal Family?

Ibtihaj Muhammad & SK Ali

Hachette Children’s Group

Asiya’s hijab is blue like the ocean and blue like the sky. It’s Faizah’s first day at school and her big sister Asiya’s first day of hijab. But not everyone sees the hijab as beautiful. This is an uplifting story of sibling bonds, new experiences and being proud of who you are.

A fun search-and-find book for kids. As adults we may be reaching saturation point with this season’s coverage of the royals, but for kids this is a colourful round-the-world addition to their bookshelf. Where’s the Queen in Buckingham Palace? Where are William and Kate in Time Square? Travel the world seeking out the senior royals and their corgis. Asia Family Traveller 27

READING MATTER

Catalysts for kids

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Rooms with a view Top-up your bucket list with this year's most tempting resort openings

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TUNISIA Hit the desert sands at Anantara Tozeur Resort. The Sahara Desert-based property officially opened in December 2019 (but hey, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s practically 2020) and boasts a smorgasbord of sandy adventures. Buckle-up for a 4x4 dune bashing expedition, hop on a dromedary for a camel trek, enjoy a horse ride in a nearby date palm oasis, or head out for a visit to Tozeur Medina. But perhaps the biggest draw card for Star Wars fans is the chance to visit many of the filming locations used in the original Star Wars trilogy. The resort is offering a two-night Tatooine Journey Package with excursions to some of the most recognised backdrops used in the movies. Return airport transfers to nearby Tozeur Nefta International Airport are also included. anantara.com

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BALI

INDIA The ambitious Six Senses Fort Barwara hotel is due to open in March. The property is located in a fourteenth century fort, three hours drive from the city of Jaipur. The fort was originally owned by the Rajasthani Royal Family. As a hotel, it will offer 48 suites, two restaurants, a Six Senses Spa, fitness centre, two swimming pools and a kids’ club. This is the international hospitality brand’s first foray into India. The fort was constructed 700 years ago and is being restored in partnership with a descendant of the noble family of Barwara. The build is being led by a team of conservation experts and it is hoped it will achieve a five-star green rating from Integrated Habitat Assessment certification, the highest classification of national sustainable design in India. Along with the hotel amenities, guests will also be able to enjoy daily forays into Ranthambhore National park, home to tigers, leopards and more. sixsenses.com 30 Asia Family Traveller

The Westin Resort & Spa Ubud opened in January, rather romantically located amongst rice paddies, ancient temples and lush greenery. This is a family-oriented destination with a focus on wellness. Activities include early morning yoga and meditation classes, a Run Concierge that provides guided group running along a five kilometre countryside trail, a signature spa and a fitness centre. Youngsters will be kept busy at the Westin Family Kids Club, which has been set-up next to the children’s pool and waterfall. And the stunning resort infinity pool overlooks the jungle and winding Wos River below. Accommodation comprises 120 rooms, suites and villas, all kitted out with a Westin signature ‘Heavenly Bed’ and ‘Heavenly Bath’. Two pool villas are available for larger family groups. mariott.com

Hilton is scheduled to open a property in the farflung Faroe Islands later this year. Hilton Garden Inn will be the first international hotel brand to operate in the Faroes. The property will be within walking distance of the harbour, with views over the Atlantic Ocean and an emphasis on sustainability. More than 100 guest rooms, a restaurant, a fitness centre and a spa will be available if you decide to make the journey. The Faroe Islands are located between Iceland and Norway. Don’t forget to rug-up. hilton.com

QATAR Zulal Wellness Resort is set to be Qatar’s largest wellness destination and first full-immersion wellness resort in the Middle East. It will also include a Family Wellness Resort for guests of all ages. The Family Wellness Resort will be located adjacent to the adult-only Wellness Resort and aims to promote family bonding, with

opportunities for shared experiences, as well as dedicated children’s activities. Zulal Wellness Resort is located in the northern tip of Qatar and will be managed and operated by the renowned Chiva-Som wellness sanctuary in Thailand. It’s scheduled to open in the second quarter of this year. zulal.com

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FAROE ISLANDS

ROUND-THE-WORLD DIARY

Fun in Finland It’s goodbye Hong Kong and hello Finland, as the Chenoweth family embarks on a year-long, round-the-world adventure. Mum Brooke takes us through the first stop-off

fter 12 years in Hong Kong, we had decided it was time to move on. But we weren’t quite ready to go home to Australia and so were faced with the question, ‘what next?’ So we thought we’d try, well, everywhere. Part of Hong Kong’s appeal for us, as Antipodeans, has always been its proximity to the rest of the world. Along with our two boys, now aged ten and eight, we’ve always travelled as much as we possible within the limitations of work and school, but every trip left us wanting more. We often read stories of people who packed up everything and hit the road, home-schooling and teaching their kids about the world whilst actually seeing it in real life. It’s an idea that sounded slightly mad, but somewhat idyllic to us. Frozen flights in the Arctic Circle

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The family snuggles up on a reindeer ride

So last summer, as tensions in our adopted city rose, we suddenly found ourselves plotting ways to make our escape a reality. And over a few glasses of wine and a lot of ‘pros and cons’ lists, we realised not only was it possible, it was something we really wanted to do. Unfortunately, the boys took some convincing, and we weren’t prepared to pack up our lives and walk away completely. So, we settled on a ‘lite’ version of a world tour, a family-friendly ‘gap’ year if you like.

My husband is still working out of Hong Kong, so he has spread out his leave and planned work trips based around where we want to be throughout the year. Even though he’s only with us half the time, he’s able to bring us things we need from home, and take back anything we don’t. So while it’s not ideal, it’s workable. And he’s also still living in our house, which means we will have somewhere to return to when we’re ready. And we’re hoping that by the end of the year, we’ll know where

we want to be. Once the decision had been made, we moved pretty quickly. We had already planned a holiday in early December, so we used that as our starting point. Finnish Lapland has been at the top of our bucket list for a while, and I could think of no better place to kick-off our adventure. In the lead-up I was torn between wanting to get started, and feeling overwhelmed by everything I had to do. When I finished work in late-October, I had two weeks to pack and stock up on cold weather gear, while the boys were still at school. We threw in a quick trip to Australia to see family and three days after landing back in Hong Kong, we were off. We had two nights in Helsinki to acclimatise, and despite the jetlag, freezing cold temperatures, and the fact that we arrived on a public holiday, we managed to see some of the sights. It’s a very easy city to get around, and there is a lot to do with kids any time of year, so I highly recommend a stopover en route to the North Pole. While I was tempted to take the Polar Express (yes, it’s a thing!), we decided to fly to Rovaniemi, 1000kms north, and right on the edge of the Arctic Circle. We organised our flights from Hong Kong to Helsinki to Rovaniemi, and back, through Flight Centre. Arriving at the airport, surrounded by snow and an enormous grey sky, felt like landing

The reindeer were a hit, as was the husky sled ride (inset)

inside a snow globe. It really is as magical as you hope it might be. Most hotels in Rovaniemi and the surrounding area book up a year in advance and require up-front payment. I had left reservations till quite late in the year so we had to be a bit flexible, and we ended up in three different hotels during the time we were there. However, each one was fantastic, and it was all part of the adventure. We planned this trip to coincide with our eldest son’s tenth birthday and he had a couple of requests for activities on the big day. We booked the husky sled ride and farm tour in advance through Wild Nordic. Being pulled along by huskies on a sled through the forest as it snowed was a pretty incredible experience, and learning about the lives of the dogs and how they are raised was also really worthwhile. We followed this up with minisnowmobiles, another big hit.

Everything else we arranged once we were there, and even though it was peak season it was easy to do. Wild Nordic also took us on a reindeer ride, which was much more my pace! And of course, no trip to Lapland would be complete without meeting the big guy himself. Santa Park is the place to go for every Christmas fantasy you can imagine, and it was the highlight of our trip for this family of believers. The timing wasn’t right for the northern lights unfortunately, but our Hong Kong kids were perfectly content playing in the snow until well after dark, while we investigated the Finnish concepts of sauna and Glöggi. We left Rovaniemi very reluctantly on one of the coldest days of the season. Crossing the tarmac to board the plane in minus 18 degrees and blizzard conditions is an experience I hadn’t planned on, but it was definitely memorable! We had a few more days exploring Helsinki and it’s safe to say we fell in love with Finland. The land of Fazer chocolates, Moomin, Marimekko, Santa Claus and so much more should be on everyone’s must-visit list. Next issue - the Chenoweths head south into Europe.

When we announced our plans, most people responded with positivity and support - with the exception of a few who think we’re completely bonkers… Spending 24 hours a day, seven days a week with your kids is daunting enough for most parents, but having to teach them as well takes it to another level! I’m a qualified teacher, and even I found the prospect challenging. But it has been easier than any of us expected. I have a lot of resources and we’re roughly following the Australian curriculum for the basics. We start each day with a couple of hours of schoolwork and follow a set routine. The rest of the day is free for play, but we’ve built some non-traditional learning in to it, or what I like to call ‘sneaky learning’. Every museum or landmark we visit is considered a field trip. Every time we move countries, we do research about the culture, history, geography, and attempt a few words in the local language. The boys are also developing a huge number of new life skills too; from budgeting and packing, to building a fire and extreme temperature survival skills. We’ve made lessons out of everything we do, every day, which means we’re learning too. A huge motivating factor for us was wanting to spend this time together as a family while the kids are old enough to benefit from it, but still young enough that it won’t impact too much on schooling. For the most part, we’re enjoying their company, but there have been some very small hotel rooms that have really tested the limits... It has taken us a few weeks to settle into a routine and get used to the idea that this isn’t a holiday; it’s going to take work to make it work for all of us. But so far, it’s been, as my boys would say, “epic.”

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ROUND-THE-WORLD DIARY

LIFE ON THE ROAD

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FEATURES 34

Where to camp under canvas in comfort and style, across Asia and beyond

Australia's Fraser Island (pictured) has heaps of fun attractions, from whale watching to seaplane rides

One family's adventures with the nomadic tribes of Western Mongolia

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A camping holiday doesn’t have to mean a damp tent in a muddy field. On the trail of jungle safaris and desert adventures, Kate Farr ditches her sleeping bag and takes a look at ‘glamping’ 2020-style

hat do the words ‘family camping holiday’ mean to you? If you immediately conjure up images of lugging children across fields to the toilet block, showering in your flip-flops and boiling up saucepans of water for your

morning coffee, then think again. Contemporary family camping has long since evolved from the bad old days of damp canvas and clammy sleeping bags. These days there is an abundance of luxury options that will enable you to get back to nature with all the comfort of a five-star hotel. Luxury camping is often a greener option too, with many of the more luxe-end camps making great strides in environmental protection, working in harmony with nature to develop innovative green features such as solar panelling, the harnessing of wind energy, and stringent recycling programmes.

FINCA DE ARRIETA ECO VILLAGE, LANZAROTE, CANARY ISLANDS The volcanic island of Lanzarote is blessed with near-constant warm weather, making it an ideal European escape year-round. The luxurious yet environmentally conscious Finca De Arrieta is a small development that runs entirely "off-grid" using solar and wind power. Designed with the needs of families in mind, the resort's Mongolian yurts are spacious, comfortable and loads of fun for kids of all ages, with an extensive range of extras options to select from, including private garden terraces, alfresco kitchens and barbecue pits. Baby and toddler equipment such as cots, highchairs and booster seats can be requested at time of booking, and the cosy bedrooms offer plenty of space for everyone to stretch out. And while it can get hot outside in the summer, the yurts' ingenious traditional double-skinned construction and opening skylight ensures that the interior is kept at a constant ambient temperature, without the need for additional air-con. Situated in the peaceful north of Lanzarote, the resort's location offers an ideal escape from the Canaries' often brash and overcrowded tourist areas. The local village of Arrieta is a scenic and peaceful place to enjoy a lunch of fresh local seafood, while nearby Playa de La Garita belies the island's volcanic reputation with a pristine stretch of golden sand.

Opposite page Top - giant chess fun Top - relaxing by the resort pool at Finca de Arrieta eco village Left - feeding the resident chickens Below - al fresco entertainment Opposite page Top - giant chess fun at Finca de Arrieta in the Canary Islands Below - one of the resort’s family-sized tents; Finca de Arrieta is run entirely off-grid using solar and wind power

Upgrade your stay to include exclusive use of a hybrid car (with car seats available on request) and enjoy the freedom to tour the rest of the island, and marvel at those black sand beaches at your leisure. lanzaroteretreats.com Asia Family Traveller 37

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F CUS Kids under canvas

F O CUS

Left - the luxurious pool at Four Seasons Tented Camp Below (l & r) - drinking in the views at the camp

FOUR SEASONS TENTED CAMP, GOLDEN TRIANGLE, THAILAND If you're travelling with hard-to-please teens, then the Four Seasons Tented Camp, sited in the Golden Triangle region that borders Thailand, Myanmar and Laos, is sure to impress. Suitable for children aged ten and over, the 15-tent resort continues to be a pioneer of luxury camping, offering that trademark impeccable Four Seasons service and attention to detail, all served up with an adventurous twist. The safari-style tents are as plush as you'd expect, featuring airconditioning, comfy king or twin beds, full bathtubs, outdoor rain showers, and private decks that offer the option of in-room dining – many come with hot tubs, and all include with panoramic jungle views as standard. Arguably one of the camp's biggest draws is its rescued elephant population, with Four Seasons working in partnership with the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation to rehome these gentle giants in the surrounding jungle habitat. Another fascinating option for families wishing to learn more about the surrounding region is a private tour with Four Seasons' own Camp Guide, Somkid Chaisan Khun Paul. With a range of tour options including hot spring bathing, jungle hikes, bird spotting and the opportunity to meet and chat with individuals from the local indigenous hill tribes, the tours are as educational as they are entertaining. fourseasons.com/goldentriangle 38 Asia Family Traveller

BACK TO NATURE The Cardamom Tented Camp is nestled in 18,000 hectares of pristine land in Southern Cambodia’s Cardamom mountain range. It entrusts carefully vetted organisations both the right and responsibility to protect and manage designated “concessions” of forest. Since 2014, the concession of land on which the camp sits has been funded via international hotel group Anantara’s charitable organisation, The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation. Proceeds from the camp are used to fund the rangers that patrol the concession, protecting against deforestation and poaching. Guests staying at Cardamom Tented Camp can be as involved as they want to be, including joining the Khmer rangers on jungle patrols, heading out on overnight trips deep into the jungle - or simply relaxing and admiring the local wildlife from the tent’s decking. The camp is environmentally sustainable throughout and guests can expect a quality three-star camp complete with comfortable beds, sturdy bamboo and rattan furniture, electric fans and bathroom facilities with hot water and rain showers.

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This picture - Natra Bintan is just an hour from Singapore Below - time for sunset drinks in the bar Below inset - serious luxe at bedtime with 'real' beds

NATRA BINTAN, BINTAN, INDONESIA Situated right on the shore of the Crystal Lagoon, Southeast Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest man-made seawater lagoon, Natra Bintan offers the ideal balance for families looking for an active holiday that also offers plenty of opportunity for downtime. Conveniently located just an hour's ferry ride from Singapore, the resort offers a selection of spacious, airconditioned Garden- or Lagoonview tents, all of which come with a king bed, double sofa bed,

and plenty of space for an infant cot, which may be booked prior to arrival. Those travelling in a larger group should opt for the resort's Safari Tents, which are clustered in groups of four or six around a private courtyard area â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ideal for social sundowners or a tent-side barbecue while the kids play. There's a full daily programme of family-friendly water sports on offer at Crystal Lagoon, including bumper boats, kayaks, slides and wakeboarding, meaning that

active kids in need of burning off some energy will have plenty to keep them occupied. Looking for something a little more serene? Guided sunrise yoga, gentle kayak tours through the lush mangrove reserve, or a round of

golf at the nearby Ria Bintan Golf Club will make your stay every bit as memorable for the grownups in your party as the kids. marriott.com

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4 RIVERS FLOATING LODGE, TATAI, CAMBODIA The world's very first eco-lodge built on water, 4 Rivers Floating Lodge lies at the foothills of Cambodia's imposing and beautiful Cardamom Mountains and has been mindfully built to have the least possible impact on the surrounding protected forest ecoregion. The resort's strong commitment to the environment and its people includes employing and training staff via a Phnom Penh-based youth employment NGO and creating a freshwater catchment area to provide safe drinking water to the local community. Best suited to older children due to its over-water nature, the Lodge 40 Asia Family Traveller

comprises just 12 spacious fan-cooled, solar-powered safari tents, all with the option of either double or twin beds. The gentle motion of the floating pontoons, along with the luxurious natural dĂŠcor, deep wooden soaking tubs and spacious balconies combine to create a singularly soothing space in which to relax. As you might expect for a resort with environmental respect at the centre of its operations, guests are promised a fully immersive natural experience. This includes dawn jungle trekking, guided rainforest and mangrove walks, and hikes up into the lush Cardamom Mountains for more

energetic guests. There are also plenty of options to explore the surrounding river, including by boat trip to the powerful Tatai Waterfall, a tranquil sunset cruise, and solo night kayaking, guided only by the dancing glow of fireflies. ecolodges.asia

Clockwise from left - the tents are located in Cambodiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful Cardamom Mountains; learning to dive from the floating platform; discovering the waterways by kayak

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CAMP SARIKA BY AMANGIRI, UTAH, USA Five minutes' drive across the beautiful Utah desert from Amangiri's main resort lies Camp Sarika, a brand new, ultra-exclusive wilderness destination comprising just 10 private pavilions. Enabling families to immerse themselves in the surrounding desert landscape in absolute privacy and luxury, the tented camp welcomes children of all ages â&#x20AC;&#x201C; although you'll need to pre-book cots and highchairs prior to your arrival. Sarika's fully air-conditioned two-bedroomed pavilions are particularly well-suited for family groups: in addition to two palatial ensuite king or twin bedrooms, you'll enjoy private outdoor showers, (perfect for a good water fight!), spacious lounge and dining spaces, large outdoor terraces with heated plunge pool, and, best of all, unobstructed 270-degree views of those spectacular desert sunsets.

Top - plunge pool in a desert landscape at Camp Sarika Left - there are just ten pavilions at the wilderness camp Bottom of page - chic set-ups in Mahooraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s carbon-neutral safari camps in Sri Lanka

If you can bear to tear yourself away from the comfort of your stylish suite, there's plenty here to keep everyone busy. The camp has an extensive network of desert and mountain hiking trails to explore by foot or on horseback. Meanwhile, older

and more adventurous children can experience the thrill of guided canyoneering, following the camp's own expertdesigned Via Ferrata route. If that all sounds a little strenuous, there are nightly campfire storytelling and star-gazing sessions,

designed to help guests of all ages learn more about Native American culture, the night sky above, and the magical landscape all around them. aman.com

MAHOORA TENTED SAFARI CAMPS, VARIOUS LOCATIONS, SRI LANKA As the world's first and only carbon-neutral safari camp, you can be confident that your stay at one of Mahoora's Sri Lanka-wide destinations will support, rather than harm, the stunning wilderness all around you. The camp's safari tent accommodation is available a range of differing options, from the plush Elite, which includes luxurious private bathrooms, lounge areas and wall-towall carpeting, to Explorer, which offers a smaller, more rustic experience in some of Mahoora's less-visited locations. And although the

focus is on leaving no trace, there's still plenty of comfort included with every option, with added touches such as fans, eco-friendly toiletries and crisp bed linen included. Suitable for children who are old enough to respect the need for quiet voices and slow movements around wildlife, Mahoora welcomes families with open arms, offering the option of pre-arranged customised menus and flexible dining times, jeeps with seatbelts and child-friendly game drive routes, plus a specially trained naturalist who

can answer all their burning questions. Aside from the obvious draw of the animals, the various National Park locations offer many other attractions, such

as family nature walks, alfresco barbecues, cooking classes and lessons hosted by noted wildlife photographers and watercolour artists. mahoora.lk

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STOP PRESS Siem Reap saw the opening of the stunningly renovated FCC Angkor hotel last year - and now it’s welcoming families. Carolynne Dear files copy from this historic hacks’ hang-out

he Foreign Correspondents’ Club Angkor, Cambodia, emerged gleaming last year following an extensive and thoughtful renovation. The heritage building was taken over by Avani Hotels & Resorts and was closed until late 2019 for renovation work. It re-opened as a boutique hotel and has this year added family rooms. The original building, which was formerly the French governor’s house, has been transformed into The Mansion, an elegant restaurant complete

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with verandah, huge rattan wing-backed chairs, ceiling fans and an eclectic menu. The hotel counts 80 guest rooms and suites split between two wings, each wing with its own saltwater pool nestled beneath the branches of the property’s fragrant frangipani trees. The mansion house was built in 1917 and was home to the governor during the final decades of French colonial rule, until Cambodia was granted self-rule in 1946. At this point it became a popular hang-out for celebrities and journalists, although it was never actually a foreign correspondents’ club. The FCC

moniker came about when the FCC Hospitality Group acquired the building in the 1990s. The group also owns the Phnom Penh FCC, which was a former Foreign Correspondents’ Club. The hotel is located moreor-less in the centre of town, adjacent to the Siem Reap river and opposite the Royal Residence and Royal Independence Gardens. The cafes, galleries and homeware and jewellery boutiques of Kandal Village are minutes away by tuk tuk, as are the temples of Angkor Wat. The hotel itself is a gorgeous combination of tropical modernity and classic French

FAMILY FUN The new family-size suites are due to open later this summer. fcccollection.com

Opposite page - the historic Mansion dominates the entrance to FCC Angkor This page (top to bottom) - evening drinks at Scribe; one of the saltwater pools; dining in The Mansion

SIEM REAP WITH KIDS Throw some clay at Khmer Ceramics & Fine Arts Centre. Kids are welcome for three years and workshops include instruction on creating an Angkorian bowl on the potter’s wheel. Plus you get to keep the fired piece. khmerceramics.com

THE HOTEL IS A GORGEOUS MÉLANGE OF TROPICAL MODERNITY AND CLASSIC FRENCH COLONIALISM

On my second day, following a sumptuous breakfast at The Mansion (don’t miss the French pastries) I was collected bright and early by tuk tuk for a tour of the Angkor Wat complex. At that time of day, crowds were minimal and by the time the heat set-in at midday, I was ready to escape back to my lounger beside the frangipani-shaded pool. Siem Reap is an easy weekend escape and FCC Angkor makes it rather special. fcccollection.com Asia Family Traveller was a guest of FCC Angkor.

Enjoy a circus show with a difference and support impoverished local students. Phare The Cambodian Circus performers use theatre, music, dance and modern circus skills to tell Cambodian folk stories. pharecircus.org Whizz over the treetops in the middle of the Angkor Wat temple complex. Angkor Zipline is a network of ten ziplines which are great fun and the perfect antidote for kids who have reached their temple-viewing limits. angkorzipline.com

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colonialism. The ‘new bits’ segue sympathetically with the old and the Phnom Penh-based architects have succeeded in maintaining the cultural foundations of the property, with the historic mansion remaining the focal point. The modern guest room wing to the rear of The Mansion is just two storeys high and decked out with plenty of trickling water features and gorgeous foliage - some of the trees are centuries old. I was hosted in a ground-floor Deluxe Courtyard room, which opened out onto one of the pools and was within waving distance of the pool bar and restaurant. The clean, modern lines of my room were complemented by quirky nods to the hotel’s past. On the desk was a manual typewriter, a typed welcome note from the general manager curling out from behind the carbon ribbon. Other details included a Bakelite rotary telephone, an oldfashioned wireless, Khmer arts and Cambodian hand-pressed geometric tiles. The bed runner and chair cushions had been woven in neighbouring villages as part of the hotel’s outreach programme committed to empowering local women. Having checked in, had a stretch in the pool and a wander around the the cute boutiques of nearby Kandal Village, it was soon dusk. Scribe, a ‘new bit’ located at the front of the hotel in the beautifully lit gardens of The Mansion, is the place to be for cocktail hour. Beautiful surroudings and a deliciously mixed gin and tonic made for an entirely relaxing pre-dinner drink. The menu at The Mansion covers all bases, with western favourites as well as local dishes. And the elegant interior is conducive to much lingering over after-dinner drinks.

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SHIPWRECKS AND SANDCASTLES Marianne Rogerson feels the sand between her toes on a family adventure to Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fraser Island

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AU ST RAL IA Asia Family Traveller 45

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When shipwreck survivor Eliza Fraser was swept ashore on a rugged Our 4WD bus takes us on a turbulent rollercoaster of a ride Australian beach in 1836, little did she know that the sandy island she through the maze of potholed tracks that snake through the interior had washed up on would soon be named after her. of Fraser Island, before depositing us on spectacular 75 Mile Beach. And what an island to be named in your honour. Named as one of the best coastal drives in the world, this famous Located offshore from Hervey Bay in Queensland, Fraser Island is beach may sound like the perfect place for some family fun in the the world’s largest sand island and one of eleven World Heritage sites sun, but its main function is actually as a highway. Swimming is in Australia. definitely not recommended here due to dangerous currents and The traditional owners of the land, the Butchulla people, have their predatory sharks. Nor is building sandcastles, due to fast moving own name for Fraser Island: K’Gari (pronounced Gari), which means traffic. But cruising along the coastline with the waves lapping at Paradise. And it certainly dishes up a healthy serving of beauty. your wheels and the beach stretching as far as you can see in either The island, which measures 120km by 25km, is home to long direction is certainly a memorable experience. stretches of beach, glistening freshwater lakes, lush mangroves and 354 The more surprising function of 75 Mile Beach is as an airstrip. species of bird. It is also one of the only places in the world you will find And at 75 miles long, it is the longest airstrip in the world. It is also rainforest growing in sand dunes. one of only two places on Earth where you can take off from a plane Fortunately, our arrival on Fraser Island is a little less dramatic than on the beach. (The other being Barra Island in Scotland). that of Eliza Fraser. Far from being washed up on a So when our bus pulls up alongside an eightsandy outcrop, we cruise in aboard the ferry from seater plane and the pilots invite us to take a Hervey Bay, our hair ruffling in the breeze on the 15-minute sightseeing tour over the island, we jump alfresco roof deck. We arrive directly into Kingfisher at the offer. After an exhilarating take off, we scan Bay Resort, our eco-friendly base on the island. the ocean below us for sharks and whales before Designed to integrate with and have minimal sweeping inland and admiring the rainforest and the impact on its natural environment, Kingfisher Bay glistening blue lakes from above. AFTER AN Resort attracts more than 145,000 visitors every The most famous of all the 75 Mile Beach year, drawn in by the natural bush surroundings attractions is rather surprisingly a rusting shipwreck. EXHILARATING and incredible attractions of Fraser Island. There I’ll admit to being rather sceptical as to how exciting is a wide range of accommodation to choose from, a washed up hunk of metal can be, but once we TAKE OFF, WE think executive villas (where Harry and Meghan learn of her romantic and turbulent history, we too SCAN THE OCEAN famously stayed during their recent Australia tour), are keen to marvel at this former doyenne of the villas, houses and hotel rooms. seas and try to envisage her during her glory days. BELOW FOR The villas are the optimal choice for families. Originally a luxurious ocean liner, the SS Maheno SHARKS AND Available with one- to three-bedrooms and was the first turbine steamer to cross the Pacific and incorporating fully fitted kitchens, laundry facilities one of the fastest ships of her day. Her fancy dining WHALES and separate lounge and dining areas, they offer room, complete with grand piano, was frequented by plenty of space and privacy. We settle for a Family passengers traveling from Sydney to Auckland. Resort Room, which comprises two adjoining hotel During World War I she was used as a hospital rooms, each with ensuite and is perfectly adequate ship before returning to being an ocean liner, until for our three-night stay. she grew too old and was decommissioned in 1935. She was bought All buildings at the resort are built below the treeline and are limited by a Japanese shipyard, who sold her propellers to pay for her, and to two storeys, while the stilted foundations allow the island wildlife to so her last voyage from Sydney to Osaka was taken under tow. When go about their daily business uninterrupted. We relish the sound of the a cyclone caused her towline to snap, she was swept ashore on cicada orchestra that bursts forth from the lagoon at night and love Fraser Island, where she remains to this day. watching the kookaburras swooping between the trees from our table on During World War II, the Australian Air Force used the SS Maheno the breakfast deck. for bombing practice and she is now broken in two as she lies The only local wildlife you won’t encounter in the resort is the rusting on the shore. As her name means ‘island’ in Maori it seems infamous dingo, thanks to a protective fence encircling the resort to fate played a hand in her resting place, where she can remain keep its guests safe. glorious and famous - rather than rusting away in a Japanese We spend some time exploring the resort’s nature trails and lounging shipyard. by the swimming pool before heading to the Sunset Bar to enjoy happy The undoubted highlight of Fraser Island is Lake McKenzie, the hour as the sun lazily slips out of view. As we slope off to sample feature of many a Fraser Island postcard and fridge magnet. As the the local delights of signature restaurant Seabelle, the kids set off island’s finest example of a ‘perched’ lake, the water here is entirely with their torches to join a night time nature walk, this evening’s Eco made up of rainwater. With only around 80 of these perched lakes Rangers activity. in the world, 40 can be found right here on Fraser Island. But we haven’t come all the way to Fraser Island to sip cocktails at With the underlying lakebed acting like the backing on a mirror sunset and indulge in fine dining cuisine, as lovely as this is. There is a and reflecting the colour of the sky, Lake McKenzie is famed for its whole island to explore and so we sign up to the 4WD Beauty Spots tour vibrant blue water, made all the more spectacular by the brilliant with Fraser Explorer Tours, which sets off from the resort every morning. white sand that lines its shores. 46 Asia Family Traveller

AU ST RAL IA Sights and sounds of Fraser Island and Kingfisher Bay Resort (bottom left and spa centre)

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Left and below left - the stunning blues of Lake McKenzie, created entirely of rainwater

Below centre and right - building sandcastles and inspecting shipwrecks kept the kids busy

With the surrounding ocean rife with dangerous marine life and dreaded rip tides, this is where tourists flock to for swimming on Fraser Island, and we waste no time running into the crystal blue water for a splash around, building sandcastles on its soft sandy beach and taking a leisurely stroll along the shoreline. The perfect ending to a hot dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sightseeing. The next morning we are up bright and early to head out into Hervey Bay in search of migrating whales. Having just been named the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first Whale Heritage Site, Hervey Bay is renowned as the best place in the world for sustainable whale watching, and boats leave every morning from the Kingfisher Bay Resort jetty during whale watching season (July to November). Humpback whales make their 48 Asia Family Traveller

yearly migration from Antarctica to Queensland to have their babies, as the water is too cold for the young in the icy Antarctic waters (making humpback whales officially Queenslanders according to our skipper aboard the Hervey Bay Whale Watch tour!) The relatively calm Hervey Bay provides good shelter for the whales, and so it is a popular stop-off point before they continue their journey. As they head south towards the end of the season, mothers and their calves often spend several days here, fattening up the calves and teaching them the life skills needed for their long trip south. This offers excellent opportunities to view these magnificent sea creatures up close in their natural habitat, and we are excited to set off out into the bay to find them.

TRAVEL STATS KOOKABURRAS SWOOP BETWEEN THE TREES AS WE EAT BREAKFAST ON THE DECK

The Rogerson family visited Fraser Island in October, during the Australian spring. Temperatures are clement all year round, hovering between 14 and 25degC in the winter and between 23 and 30 degC in the summer. Whale watching season runs from July to November; the best time to see mothers and calves is between August and September. Brisbane International Airport is a four hour drive from Hervey Bay. Hervey Bay/Fraser Coast is the domestic airport for Fraser Island.

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We are not disappointed. Within minutes of arriving in Hervey Bay, a mother and her calf are spotted off the starboard side and are soon circling our boat and diving underneath us, allowing us to admire their magnitude at almost-touching distance. We spend more than an hour following them into the bay, clicking away with our cameras and cheering them on every time the curious whales swoop in for a closer look at us. Just when we think it canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get any better, a large male appears and treats us to an incredible breaching display, leaving us in no doubt of his strength and might. We gaze on in awe as he launches himself out of the water, twists onto his back and crashes back down with an almighty splash, sending water flying in all directions, before slapping his tail and fins on the surface and doing it all over again. Asia Family Traveller 49

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OCEANS HEAVEN A new kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; club and a sleepover with the fish beckon at Conrad Maldives Rangali Island. Carolynne Dear flies out to take a look

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M AL DIVES

upine on a downy bed I can vaguely hear someone calling me. “Cocktails are served!” But even the thought of an ice cold G&T can’t shift me. I’m mesmerised, drawn in by the circling antics of the underwater world before me. Fish flip, sharks shimmy and then a turtle glides past. I’m lost in my own little watery world. I’ve been invited to experience the Muraka (meaning ‘coral’ in the local Dhivehi language), a two-level residence in the Maldives whose master bedroom lies on the ocean bed, five feet below sea level in the Indian Ocean. Initial fears about claustrophobia dissipated as soon as I walked into the luxe room. The soft, snowy-white bed, it turns out, is the perfect place from which to conduct an underwater exploration. And despite remaining dry and unencumbered by gear, I still get that lovely feeling of total peace and other-worldliness that comes with diving. Asia Family Traveller 51

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Previous page - The Muraka, Conrad Maldives Rangali Island's underwater residence Opposite - the beach beckons on Rangali Island Top - The Muraka comes with private jet skis Centre - views of The Muraka Bottom glamping with the fish

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LOOKING FOR A FAMILY TRIP TO REMEMBER, HOLIDAYS DON’T COME MUCH MORE MEMORABLE THAN THIS

The property itself is breathtaking. Floor-to-ceiling glass doors swing back onto a large deck boasting an infinity pool and hot tub (it’s east-facing, so this is where you catch the sun rising in the morning) and there’s a further deck to the front of the property for sunset gazing, freshly mixed drink in-hand. But the best was yet to come. Following the spiral staircase down (there is also an elevator) you find yourself surrounded by fish. The villa has had time to bed down and is now a part of the underwater ecosystem. Divers plunge twice a day to clean the windows, but the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island is part of the Alifu Dhaalu Atoll, a 45-minute seaplane ride north of Male. The resort has been on the receiving end of the accolade ‘Best Hotel in the World’ not once, but twice. It even featured on the Keeping Up with the Kardashians TV series a few years ago. But the one-year-old Muraka, located on a jetty that links the two islands that make up the resort, is next-level luxury travel.

reef is beginning to make the interloper home. The 600-tonne structure was built in Singapore before being shipped to the Maldives in December 2018. The residence took a full two years to build before it was hauled into place and tethered to the seabed using concrete piles. The resort’s on-site marine biologists are kept busy ensuring the structure enhances rather than impedes the nearby reef. Existing coral was carefully removed before the arrival of Muraka, and replaced around the structure once it was successfully in situ.

It is the world’s first underwater villa hotel and its launch followed that of Ithaa, the resort’s underwater restaurant. The three-bed villa comes with private 24-hour butler and chef, private jet skis and on-call fitness trainer. During my stay, I sipped on signature cocktails and enjoyed incredible Maldivian inspired dishes. With this level of dining, the fitness trainer is maybe not such a bad idea.

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IF YOU’RE

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As part of the resort’s reef conservation programme, visitors can ‘adopt’ a coral and have it placed on the Muraka reef. The submerged suite includes floor-to-ceiling glass windows in the bathroom and in the bedroom, the glass - in this instance acrylic - curves overhead for 180 degree views. And if all the marine activity is playing havoc with your sleep, there are remote control blackout curtains (after all, even fish deserve a little privacy). I felt perfectly comfortable in the oxygen-controlled, air-conditioned bedroom, but you can always decamp to the master bedroom upstairs if you need a break from the depths. The ocean-views above sea-level are almost as breath-taking. If you’re looking for a family trip to remember, holidays don’t come much more memorable than this. At US$50,000 per night, the Muraka admittedly may not be within everyone's reach, but this doesn’t mean to say you can’t enjoy the resort on a more modest budget. Rangali Island is a stunning strip of sand in the Indian Ocean. The resort offers plenty of (above ground) villas and suites dotted across two islands. The twobedroom Deluxe Beach Villas and Beach Villas are perfect for families, with ample space for two adults and two children. And the Beach Suites sleep six and include two private plunge pools and a private island host. If you’re not staying in the Muraka, you can still enjoy an underwater experience at the resort’s underwater restaurant, Ithaa. The same New Zealand engineering company behind the Muraka was used for both the resort’s underwater projects and when it was installed, Ithaa was the world’s first underwater restaurant. 54 Asia Family Traveller

Left - the resort offers heaps of watersports Below left - sailing between the resorts two islands Below right - breakfast with the fish at underwater restaurant, Ithaa Opposite top - jetting into the resort by seaplane Below - the infinity pool on Rengali Island

Breakfast involved plates of pastries and a la carte hot dishes and plenty of glasses of bubbles amongst the bubbles. The established reef hosts a plethora of corals and fish and again I was lucky enough to see a couple of turtles glide past. Dining beneath the waves is a fantastic experience, but the

resort offers plenty of aboveground facilities, too. These include the Sunset Grill, Chineseinfluenced Ufaa, various bars and even a climate-controlled cheese and wine venue. There’s plenty to keep you busy if you can tear yourself away from the picture-perfect white-sand beaches and gelato-coloured

waters. Fins and snorkels are provided by the dive centre and it’s no distance to paddle your way out to the house reef. The resort launched a newlook kids’ club in late 2019. The Majaa Explorers Hub is open daily and is complimentary for children over the age of three years. Daily activities

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FISH FLIP, SHARKS SHIMMY, AND EVEN A TURTLE GLIDES PAST

are supervised by the experienced team and babysitting for littlies is available with 24-hours notice. There is an extra-charge for selected activities, such as motorized water sports. For older kids, ocean watersports include catamaran sailing, glass-floored boat trips, kayaking, jet skiing and water skiing, paddle boarding and wake-boarding, wind-surfing, scooter snorkelling and X-Jetpacking and X-Jetblading. The on-site dive centre offers bubble-making courses for youngsters, adventure diver certification courses, day and night dives and open water entry-level and advanced certifications. I also enjoyed a fun evening on a dolphin-viewing sailing trip. Asia Family Traveller was a guest of Conrad Maldives Rangali Island.

TRAVEL STATS Cathay Pacific operates direct flights from Hong Kong and Singapore Airlines flies direct from Singapore. Conrad Maldives Rangali Island is a 45-minute seaplane ride from the international airport at Male. We flew with Trans Maldivian Airways

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EU RASIA SPECIAL

The eagle has landed Hong Kongâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Felgate family flew to Mongolia for an unforgettable experience with the nomadic Kazakh tribes. Mum Sandra tells Carolynne Dear why it was the trip of a lifetime Asia Family Traveller 57

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itting around a bonfire in the wilds of western Mongolia, our host pulled out a bottle of white wine. Perfectly chilled in the local river, it complemented our simple meal of grilled fish beautifully, although I have no idea how he had managed to get hold of it. Earlier that day, myself, my husband and our three children had helped the tribe we were staying with catch grayling in the nearby river. We had stuffed the fish with wild-growing mint and thyme and and had now set them to cook on a huge fire. The ensuing meal was accompanied with much laughter and bursts of song and our busy, everyday lives back in Hong Kong had never seemed further away. I’ve always dreamt of travelling to Mongolia. It’s one of the few truly wild places left on the planet. As a family, we were looking for a quiet place where we could think and recharge, reconnecting with each other and with nature. We were craving peace and quiet, where nobody could hide behind a screen and all there is left to do is to talk, play cards, draw, sing and laugh. We also wanted an immersive insight into a simpler way of living before these ways of life disappear completely. I guess in summary, we were looking for

a digital detox and a true break from our life back in Hong Kong. Earlier last year I had attended a talk at Hong Kong’s Royal Geographic Society led by Adrian Bottomley of bespoke travel company, Whistling Arrow. I loved the sound of his adventures and went home and pulled up the website. A family booking to Mongolia quickly followed. And so it was that myself, my husband and my children 14-year-old Theo, ten-year-old Eden and eight-year-old Nova - found ourselves on a flight last July, bound for Mongolia. We flew to the far west, to the area that borders Kazakhstan, where we were met by our guides. The trip objective was to spend time with two nomadic Kazakh

eagle hunter families, living alongside them and taking part in their daily lives. We had also chosen to trek for a few days, supported by Bactrian camels, to reach the first family, although it is possible to drive. To say it met our expectations of getting away from it all would be an understatement. There were no power lines, no electricity, no running water, no planes overhead. A digital detox was what we had wanted and this was exactly what we got. From the airport we were driven through the most incredible landscape to a large lake at the foot of the Altai Mountains. And from here that we started our trek to the first eagle hunter family.

Learning to horseback ride

We were quickly befriended and invited into gers for tea, dinner and vodka! 58 Asia Family Traveller

Damel demonstrates the art of eagle hunting

Opposite page Clockwise from top left - the kids enjoy ‘fat-biking’; local gers; camels ford the waterways; the beautiful interior of a family ger; the nomadic tribes were very friendly; sights of western Mongolia; horseback success; the stunning countryside Centre - making friends with the tribespeople

Any apprehensions that we might have had melted away the moment we met our hosts. The nomadic families were so warm-hearted and interaction happened very naturally. Despite the language differences, we were quickly engaged in conversation and invited into their gers for tea, vodka and dinner. We got the feeling they were genuinely excited to have us there and enjoyed our company.

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TRAVEL STATS The Felgate family flew Mongolian Airlines from Hong Kong to Ulan Bator. They then picked up a domestic flight to Ulgii. From here, they joined a four-day camel trek out to the eagle hunting families, although it is possible to be driven over this section. The best time to visit is from early June to early September. Each trip is custom-designed to meet the requirements of your family. whistlingarrow.com

Packed up and ready for adventure On our first day, we were introduced to the eagle hunter, his family and his brother’s family and were invited to a big family celebration involving Mongolian wrestling. It was one of the most extraordinary days of my life. The next day, the eagle hunter’s oldest daughter, Damel, demonstrated the art of eagle hunting. Her strength and skill blew us away, just one of the family’s two eagles weighed a whopping ten kilograms. It also proved a valuable lesson for our kids to meet the nomadic children and see how they helped out with all the chores. Even the youngest fetched water from the river, milked the cows and goats and made sure the animals were safely locked back in their pens at 60 Asia Family Traveller

the end of each day. The children also assist with herding and hunting from a young age. Our days were blissfully free of fixed schedules. Whenever we felt like it we could go for a beautiful wilderness hike or a (chilling) swim in the river. Whistling Arrow provided fat bikes, there were horse riding opportunities and we were also invited to help out with the tribe’s animals. On a couple of occasions we were also invited to join a local festival or a family gathering. We had no fixed itinerary and just went with the flow. It was marvellous. The kids, of course, had a ball. From riding horses (and camels!) to interacting and playing with the local children, they had

With no electricity or running water, we were certainly getting away from it all

a great time. We’d brought a football with us and this opened many a door for us, with hours of fun along the way. We had two fantastic guides and although the camel and horse men didn’t speak any English, it didn’t seem to matter. The camel man took Nova fishing with him, Theo was taught Kazakh songs and Eden came home able to ride a horse. My husband particularly enjoyed a trek up to a remote waterfall where he had a wild swim in the freezing water. But I think the highlight for me was the welcome we received from the nomads. They seemed so excited to meet us and couldn’t have been more

hospitable. Tea, bread and vodka were always at the ready and every day we were shown new locations to explore. The scenery was absolutely spectacular. And each evening we returned to the comfortable Kazakh gers that Whistling Arrow had pre-assembled. The kids had their own ger and each tent had a warming fireplace that was lit for us every night. We slept in proper beds with pillows, duvets, sheep skins and woollen blankets. The Kazakh gers are beautifully decorated with hand embroidered felt tapestries. Additional home comforts included a shower tent with piping hot water; something I certainly had not been expecting. We also had a dining tent.

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There was a lot of opportunity to help the tribespeople look after their animals

The family joined a Bactrian camel trek to the wilds of western Mongolia Fresh fruit and vegetables were served every day, as well as wild foods and flora and fauna that we had collected and prepared, much of which I recognised as similar to my native Sweden. We wanted to eat as local and as authentically as possible. We tucked into grilled lamb from the local herdsmen, fresh yoghurt and cheese, wild onions and rhubarb, wild herbs and freshly caught fish. On several occasions the locals handmade delicious noodles for us, something the kids still talk about now. Travelling in the summer months, we enjoyed sunshine and temperatures as high as 25 degrees. But there was also the

odd hailstorm and we did have a windy night by one of the lakes while we were trekking. We hid in our snug tents and watched the surrounding peaks being slowly blanketed with snow. Even though it was summer, I would advise fleeces and windcheaters as packing essentials. It was a special and humbling trip, mostly thanks to the relationships Whistling Arrow has forged with the local families. Running multiple expeditions to this remote corner of Mongolia means the company has expert, first-hand knowledge and we could never have hoped to have gained such access to the people and locations that we did without

Eagle hunters Hunting with eagles is a traditional form of falconry found throughout the Eurasian Steppe. It is practised by the Kakakhs in Kazakhstan as well as in the province of Bayan-Olgii, Mongolia and in Xinjiang province, China. There are around 250 eagle hunters in Bayan-Olgii in the Altai Mountains of western Mongolia. Tribes hunt with golden eagles on horseback, chasing red and corsac foxes. Each October, Kazakh eagle hunting customs are celebrated at the annual Golden Eagle Festival.

them. We were incredibly well looked after. I would return to Mongolia in a heartbeat. I loved the beautiful landscapes, the snow-capped mountains, rivers, lakes and meadows full of flowers.

Who knew wild rhubarb grows in western Mongolia? And who knew how many fish we would manage to catch in the rivers?! The trip will be forever etched in our memories.

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Almighty Almaty Kazakhstan's garden city of Almaty, with its snow-capped mountains and wild surrounds, is the perfect introduction to central Asia's 'Stans. Catharine Nicol flew in for a fun week, uncovering the city's Russian past, its Kazakh present and its European vibe

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’m an avid adventure traveller and when I was offered a trip to Kazakhstan, of course I jumped at the chance. But I had no real idea about the country. Other than the knee-jerk reaction of comedian Ali G’s Kazakhstani altar ego ‘Borat’ (eye roll), friends and family looked surprised and somewhat

concerned. Pre-visit, I expected a raw, rugged ‘cowboy-country’ destination; safety questionable. Raw and rugged, yes, but beautifully so. It’s more horsenomad than cowboy, it’s extremely safe and its people are some of the warmest and most hospitable you could hope to meet.

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Almaty Green parks glinting with fountains playing in the sunshine, buzzing cafés and restaurants with tables spilling out onto the pavement, the Ascension Cathedral with its beautifully painted exterior, imposing grandiose buildings against a backdrop of snow covered mountains – I could be in Europe. Instead, welcome to Almaty, Kazakhstan’s biggest metropolis. Almaty may no longer be the capital of the country (it was moved to Astana, now NurSultan, in 1997), but Almaty is where you’ll find the country’s urban heart and soul. Named after its most famous produce, apples (there’s a small, sweet, juicy museum dedicated to the ‘alma’ (apple) at the Almaty Hotel) the city runs at a relaxed pace. It’s easily walkable, the buildings are low rise and there’s more green than concrete. And the streets are full of life in the evenings, at weekends and during the monthly craft market. My mornings started early, rising to explore the quiet, pre-workday roads. I discovered the pedestrian Panfilov Street, had a stretch on the alfresco gym equipment on the corner of Astana Square Park, and carried on to the imposing Abay Kazakh State Opera and Ballet Theatre. I then went back down the hill, zigzagging through parks, past dog walkers and through appetite-whetting wafts emanating from the bakeries. Cafés are growing in popularity in Almaty, and spots like Coffeedelia and Vanilla serve up delicious Benedicts, healthy chia bowls and quality coffee. But leave space for the foodie paradise that is the Green Bazaar. I walked around the ‘70s retro Soviet building 64 Asia Family Traveller

Almaty is peppered with parks and greenery

Apples are the city’s most famous produce

with Dennis Keen, founder of Walking Almaty. We started by climbing the stairs to Bowler Café for the view of the hustle and bustle below. Barista Andre shook up his special Caffe voc Freddo, an Americano spiked with orange and spices, as Keen pointed out the ebullient Tajik dried fruit and nuts stalls, the Korean salad area, the tea merchants, many from Russia, and the local honey and curd sellers. Later, in amongst it all, we tasted roasted, salted apricot

We tasted roasted, salted apricot kernels, spicy pickled carrots, healing teas and mountain honeys

Colourful wares at Green Bazaar

kernels, spicy pickled carrots, healing teas, mountain honeys and salty chalky curd. I also picked up ingredients for a picnic. But beware the meat area - it includes lamb heads and huge slabs of horse, the nation’s favourite meat and a popular beer snack. After a short walk up to the Park of 28 Panfilov Guardsmen, I did like the locals and relaxed on the grass under the trees in soft dappled sunshine, snacking on market goodies including the triangular savoury pastry

a maze of sauna, steam, pools and marble tables for swift and no-frills body scrubs or massages. You get segregated, naked and baked – in that order. The Finnish sauna is so hot you need to fold your towel up on the bench just to sit down. In the Turkish steam room it’s a challenge to find oxygen to breathe. And the Russian banya is just insane. Thank goodness for the bucket showers (gasp) and the beautiful cool pool under the dome (sizzle). After a few rounds of roast-and-refresh, arrange a scour (sorry, scrub) on the top floor. Squeaky clean, you’ll be ready for some retail therapy. The local, impossibly light felt-silk jackets and coats come with local patterns woven in, felt slippers mix an exotic look with

total cosiness, rugs and carpets hail from all over Central Asia in a kaleidoscope of colours, while ceramics are charming. The Green Bazaar has clothing and homewares sections for good value buys, the Esentai Mall and Villa Almaty are good for luxury brands, and the pedestrianized Arbat has high street fashion, Kazak-style. When it’s time for dinner, just wander the streets and you’ll pass eateries for Kazakh, Georgian and Russian food. Expect meat, meat and more meat on the menus. The locals love horse cold cuts - it’s like beef but – ahem – not.

Manty, deep fried dumplings with pumpkin or meat, or chebureki, bread folded over a filling of meat and onion into a crescent shape, are great starters.

Imposing architecture in the city’s parks

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‘samsa’, served hot and stuffed with meat, and a crispy baursak bread roll. This park is home to a towering black monument dedicated to the 28 Almaty soldiers who died protecting Moscow during the Great Patriotic War. On a lighter note, the park’s Russian Orthodox Ascension (Zenkov) Cathedral is all colour and spires, with children and pigeons playing a fluttering tag outside. Built entirely of wood (even the nails), the cathedral is just as colourful inside, but blissfully hushed. In the afternoon, I hopped on the tram to Kok Tobe for retro amusement rides and great views of the city at the First President’s Park. I also received a full cleanse at the Arasan Baths. The modernist, post-war building is

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Plov is a comforting mix of rice, chicken or lamb, with colourful strips of carrot, or go for shashlik, the juiciest chicken or lamb threaded on a skewer, barbequed over hot coals and served with whisper-thin breads, raw onion and beer. Wash it all down with local wine (a little on the sweet side), beer, or for non-alcoholic, kymys or shubat, fermented horse or camel milk respectively.

Kolsai lake

Out and about

Shymbulak ski season

Shymbulak

Kazakh eagle hunters Kolsai lake

An easy day trip from Almaty, Shymbulak is the ski resort just 30 minutes’ drive from downtown. In the summer it’s a Mecca for hiking. You can catch three gondolas up to 3,200m and from there it’s a rocky, rubbly walk to the glacier. The resort area has a few cafés, bars and restaurants for refuelling with local food in the fresh-fresh air before you return to the city. During the ski season (late November to late March) the mountain looks completely different, with a thick coating of snow and a buzz on the slopes. The 20km or so of slopes are great for skiing or boarding, and there’s a good selection of black runs, plus off-piste and backcountry skiing. Check out powder. kz for more information and stay at the Shymbulak Ski Resort.

The Medeu ice rink

Shymbulak 66 Asia Family Traveller

Enjoy the winter vibe at The Medeu, an outdoor speed skating rink nestled in a mountain valley on the southeastern outskirts of Almaty. At 1,691m above sea level, The Medeu is the world’s largest high-mountain skating rink. Originally home to a sanatorium, the area was developed into a rink in the 1940s and it was opened in 1951. In 2011 The

Medeu was fully renovated for the Asian Winter Games and became a major training base for skaters from the USSR. More than 200 speed world records have been set here. The rink is open for members of the public throughout the winter season. It’s open every day except Monday and entrance is free for children under seven years old.

Charyn Canyon, Kaindy and Kolsai Lakes A tour or a private taxi can transport you a few hours south east of the city into the steppes, where the wild horses roam. The distances you drive without seeing any civilisation remind you how incredibly vast this country is. For surreal Insta photos, the Charyn Canyon is Kazakhstan’s version of the Grand Canyon. The Charyn River has carved a 154-km canyon through the sandstone, leaving towering jagged rocks and cliffs. The Valley of Castles is the easiest area to visit, first from the top (Kazakh style, no barriers or fences) and then down along the canyon walking past rocks that look like dogs, witches and castles. At the very end is the stunning Charyn River crossing

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next to the Eco Park where you can camp or stay in bungalows and yurts.

The Lakes A few hours further still and you reach Saty, a village of homes that have now been turned into guest-houses thanks to its location between Kaindy and Kolsai Lakes. Don't miss an overnight at one of these delightful homes – Gostevoj Dom for example is run by Shynar who juggles her mother (in-law?), husband, kids, sheep, two dogs and a horse - and still manages to rustle-up phenomenal meals and organise trips. A Soviet era four-wheeldrive van picked me up for the tortuously bumpy 40-minute drive to Kaindy Lake. It’s a tranquil spot and when the sun shines, it is luminously turquoise and looks surreal thanks to the stillpreserved trees growing out of the water. The eight kilometre hike to Kolsai Lake follows occasionally steep trails skirting the connecting river, winding through forest and past wildflowers coated-hillsides, people trout fishing and the occasional tent. The second lake is just as beautiful as the first with the same incredibly clean cold water, fresh air and meditative atmosphere. If you want to explore further, there is also the Big Almaty Lake and Lake Issyk, white water rafting trips, horse riding and falconry experiences.

Valley of Castles

Charyn Canyons

flights and airlines for the onward flight to Nur-Sultan, as well as a very efficient overnight train service with easy online booking in English.

When to go Almaty’s temperate climate makes it a year-round destination with warm summers, colourful autumns, ski-friendly winters and green springs.

How to get there

Where to stay

Air Astana flies the six hour and 50 minute flight to Almaty direct three times a week. Visas are not necessary for many countries including Hong Kong (14 days). There are a number of internal

The Ritz-Carlton Almaty (ritzcarlton.com/almaty) and the Hilton by Doubletree (hilton.com/ almaty) are luxury and comfy options set in the south of the city with great mountain views.

The Lakes

In a nutshell Central Asia’s Kazakhstan is the world’s biggest landlocked country. Bordered by Russia, China, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, and the Caspian Sea to the west, it was part of the Silk Route in the Middle Ages. The country of nomads has been at various times invaded by the Mongols, colonised by the Russian Empire, then dominated by the Soviet Union from 1918 and declared itself an independent nation in 1991. During World War II, Stalin deported ‘political opponents’ from the USSR to Alma-Ata, as it was called then, including ethic Russians, Koreans and Germans. Today it still has one of the most diverse populations in the world, spanning Kazakhs, Russians, Uzbeks, Ukrainians, Germans, Koreans and more. The population is around 70% Muslim, 26% Christian.

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TALKING POINT

Running with the crowd Travel with kids is a challenge, but travelling with special needs children can take things to a whole other level. Amelia Sewell finds out what companies are doing to help parents with differently-abled families

hen my eldest son was just over a year old, we began to feel that we were no longer total novices at this parenting lark. We had more or less got home life down to a relatively predictable routine and things were running about as smoothly as one can expect when you have an adorable but emotional miniature terrorist sharing your flat. But then we went on holiday. Which meant our vaguely ordered life was thrown into total and utter disarray. Suddenly we were negotiating issues such as running out of formula and the terrorist rejecting the only one sold in the Thai supermarket; there were stairs to which 68 Asia Family Traveller

stairgates couldn’t be attached and the torturous early morning screech of the cockerel in the neighbouring field completely stuffed up his sleep. It was therefore on this holiday that I decided that travelling with children was the metaphoric equivalent of taking your neatly stacked pack of cards and chucking the whole thing in the air: you have absolutely no idea how it will land and the only guarantee is that it will be messy. So what happens when parents have the extrachallenging situation of a child with special needs? A child who may find the flights distressing, the destinations terrifyingly unfamiliar and the cultures

EVEN IN 2020, MANY TRAVEL COMPANIES ARE WOEFULLY ILL-PREPARED TO COMPETENTLY HELP FAMILIES WITH SPECIAL NEEDS

overwhelming? Do they shelve travelling entirely and stay at home in front of the television? Not Mary Schaus. Schaus’s six-year-old son Alexander has autism. For Alexander, the diagnosis presents itself in the form of cognitive and sensory challenges as well as delayed speech; all things that could make jetting off to a foreign land an extremely stressful experience. Yet since Alexander was born, the family has travelled to no less than – take a deep breath - Turkey, Hungary, Greece, Italy, Spain, Morocco, Thailand, the Philippines, Indonesia, New Zealand, Australia, Japan, Singapore, Sri Lanka, China, Dubai and the States.

inform their staff about the code, or implement an internal infrastructure for its use. “I recently had a representative from a five star airline ask me what the code was and then ask me to explain what autism is. I have had every single Asian airline have no understanding what the code is for,” says Schaus. We’ve all had strained conversation with airlines but this level of incompetence must really test the patience. British Airways however appears to be one airline that is proactively moving in the right direction.

and we've created a team dedicated to educating our engineers and designers,” says the company. This includes search filters to only show places or experiences that meet the family’s requirements. After that there is the “accessibility features” section in which each listing has photos and descriptions of the relevant features. Hosts are then encouraged to speak directly with the guests to understand any other special requirements. This level of attention and helpfulness has gone down very well amongst customers. Mary Schaus is certainly a big fan.

with the parents on a case by case basis to see how and where they can help. “We have one to one care available for children with special needs in three of our resorts, all at no extra cost,” explains a spokesperson. “Our childcare team is fully trained so that these children can take part in activities on and off the water. We put a big emphasis on inclusion,” While going on holiday with children of any description is never straightforward - I refer you back to that pack of cards going up in the air - the rewards and experiences these trips can bring are immeasurable.

WE DON’T LET ALEX’S CHALLENGES LIMIT US. TRAVEL IS Mary Schaus with her family in Greece

ESSENTIAL FOR GROWTH AND SHOULD

Last April, they became the first (and still only) airline to be awarded the Autism Friendly Award by the National Autistic Society. That is in addition to the launch of a visual guide, which explains the sights, sounds and smells travellers may encounter during their flight. This helps special needs travellers arrive prepared for what could otherwise be a stressful new ordeal. For holiday accommodation options, Airbnb gets a gold star for effort; they have developed their website and app in order to make it easier for families who require certain facilities or lay out. “We've learned a lot about what's working and what isn't,

“They now also ask you when you are reviewing a property if it is accessible for special needs. This is amazing. We really need companies to care and be forward looking about these issues. By simply asking, they are bringing awareness to the importance of being accessible and they really need to be commended and supported with our business,” she says. For those more in the market for package holidays, Mark Warner might be the company to tick the box. Their unique selling point is to offer excellent childcare and kids clubs from five months to eighteen years, and that includes those with special needs. In these cases, they work

INCLUDE THE WHOLE FAMILY

This could be the time they learn to swim, spot one of the big five or just gain a better appreciation for a different pocket of the world. Travel is a phenomenal teacher; that is no less the case for a child with special needs and it is crucial that awkward airlines and unhelpful travel providers do not deter these families. And where is Alex the intrepid traveller heading next? “He’s off to Italy for his third time this Easter. Pizza and gelato everywhere!” I call that living the dream. Asia Family Traveller 69

TALKING POINT

“The most surprising trips were the ones to Turkey and Morocco,” says Schaus. “There was so much love and respect for family travel, no issues for Alex's challenges and they were so kind to my children. Turkey especially.” Travelling to so many exotic and far-flung places might seem brave to some but Schaus does not see curtailing the family’s wanderlust as an option. “We don't let Alex's challenges limit us. Travel is essential to growth in any human and I believe it should include the entire family,” she says. So what makes these adventures possible? Answer - a herculean amount of planning, time and effort. This is for two reasons; firstly to sniff out the experiences that will delight Alex as much as the rest of the family. And secondly, to make sure that the service providers know what is required from them to ensure that travelling is a pleasure rather than a pain. This last point is crucial. Even in 2020, many travel companies are woefully ill-prepared to competently help families with special needs. There are however some good steps being made. The International Association of Air Travel (IATA) has introduced a Special Service Request (SSR) code. When someone books a flight and uses this code, it informs the airline that they will have a customer who has an intellectual or developmental disability, and will therefore need to provide extra assistance and consideration. (And, FYI, the code for those who might need it is DPNA). Excellent, you might think. And you would be right, in theory. But in practice, the introduction of this code has not yet packed the punch that it needs to: frustratingly many airlines have neglected to either

Water world Hong Kong’s new Victoria Dockside waterfront development is groaning with fabulous family eateries. Carolynne Dear tucks in

fter years of tedious construction and blocked access, the new Victoria Dockside waterfront development in Hong Kong’s Tsim Sha Tsui district is now open and fabulously accessible. Wide, pedestrian walkways 70 Asia Family Traveller

wind alongside the glistening harbour and with a brand new Rosewood Hotel, the glitzy K11 Musea ‘cultural and retail destination’ shopping mall and the revamped Hong Kong Museum of Art (HKMoA) lining the path, the glam factor has been ramped right up. Strolling distance from Star Ferry is Ink, an Aussie-style

coffee shop and bakery, slapbang on the harbour’s edge. Overcoming stiff competition, Australian expats Chris Woodyard and Bronwyn Cheung, founders of hospitality group Woolly Pig Hong Kong, won the coveted contract to launch casual dining space on the waterfront, which has become Ink, as well as a fine

DIN IN G ADVEN T U R ES

dining space above to form part of the new-look HKMoA. The level one dining room opened as Hue (pronounced Huw) at the tail-end of last year. So how difficult was it for them to score a rock-star location like this? “Obviously the location has always been here,” says Woodyard when we caught up for coffee. “But it was the good intentions of the HKMoA team and the Hong Kong government’s Leisure and Cultural Services Department (the museum is a governmentowned building) to open up the building and make the space really attractive to people passing by. The HKMoA team has been working on this development for the last seven years, we came in two years ago.” The museum was closed for four years in total, while it underwent a multi-million

Seafood with a view at Ink

dollar expansion. Like other museums around the world, it wanted to open with a signature restaurant. Woolly Pig’s turned out to be the successful tender. “Ink has to appeal to a wide

range of visitors, from locals and families to tourists from all over the world, as well as many different age groups,” says Woodyard. “We have tried to bring our

ethos of ‘made locally’ to the cafe, so all of our food is made on the premises or by local Hong Kong artisan producers. We wanted a seafood vibe but with an Asian-style fusion.”

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DIN IN G ADVEN T U R ES

‘Build-your-own plate’ combinations come with a protein (fish or chicken or soft-shell crab), a base, such as udon noodles, black fried rice or a tortilla, and an add-on, including kimchi, coleslaw or Sichuan vegetables. Or there are serves of prawns, oysters, seafood platters, poke bowls and chowders. “HKMoA is a community space, so we’ve picked menu items that are popular all over southeast Asia and Hong Kong,” says Woodyard. Hue, on the other hand, is a high-end, fine dining affair. The stunning, level one space boasts floor-toceiling windows with stellar views of Victoria Harbour from every table in the house. The ‘modern Australian’ menu features top quality produce from ‘down under’ and influences from around the world. Hits for me included the grass-fed Wagyu beef from South Australia, the smoked English duck with quince

British glamour

Dish of the day at Ink

and black garlic, and the dreamy dessert trolley (the baked cheesecake is a knock-out). And if you’ve got littlies in tow, the restaurant also offers a children’s menu. Hue had only been open a week when I visited, but Woodyard and Cheung were already looking forward to the Year of the Rat, with a Taittinger Sunday brunch and a sparkling afternoon tea on the cards. Ink and Hue, G/F and 1/F, Hong Kong Museum of Art, 10 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong.

WE HAVE TRIED TO BRING OUR ETHOS OF 'MADE LOCALLY' TO OUR VENUE

Fine-dining space Hue boasts knock-out harbour views

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London’s historic foodie department store Fortnum & Mason has also set up shop in Victoria Dockside. The ground floor store is much more compact than its London-based older sibling, but nevertheless stocks a fine line in beautifully packaged teas, biscuits, hampers and other treats. Upstairs, Fortnum’s has opened an all-day restaurant overlooking the harbour. Afternoon tea is highly recommended and includes a selection of finger sandwiches - think Norfolk cured ham with English mustard, cucumber with mint cream cheese, and Fortnum’s smoked salmon with Tartare sauce - a selection of individual patisseries and (natch) plain and fruit scones served with Fortnum’s own strawberry preserve and lemon curd, plus the obligatory dish of clotted cream. It all comes with a fresh pot of Fortnum’s tea. Add a glass of Fortnum’s Blanc de Blanc or Fortnum’s Sparkling Tea to make it a really special occasion. A special Children’s Afternoon Tea is also available for younger diners. Bookings are recommended. Afternoon Tea costs HK$588 per person, the Children’s Afternoon Tea is $288 per child. Afternoon Tea with a glass of Fortnum’s Blanc de Blanc champagne costs $688 per person, or $648 per person with a glass of Fortnum’s Sparkling Tea. Fortnum & Mason, Shop 022, G/F K11 Atelier Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

If you’re craving local fare, Mr Ming’s Chinese Dining has just opened in K11 MUSEA shopping mall. The casual, all-day eatery is spread across two floors and serves up a sizzling take on traditional Chinese favourites, including dim sum, seafood and roast meat platters. The eponymous owner’s family hails back to the Qing dynasty and Mr Ming himself is a poet, Chinese arts and antique enthusiast and gourmand. A collection of Chinese artwork and his coin collection is displayed throughout the restaurant. Dishes have been created around Mr Ming’s grandfather’s book of Cantonese dishes, which contains recipes that have been passed down through the generations. The dim sum collection is freshly steamed, fried and roasted on site and includes sweet and custard buns, savoury buns, dumplings and rice rolls. Ming’s thick-cut, fat-marbled Iberico BBQ Pork serves three and Ming’s Roasted

DIN IN G ADVEN T U R ES

Cantonese feast

Peking Duck is served with the skin separated from the meat and alongside homemade Mandarin pancakes and condiments. Plant-based diners can chow down on dishes specially created using meat substitutes OmniPork and Beyond Meat.

A special Chinese New Year menu is available until February 8. Mr Ming’s Chinese Dining, 113A, 1/F, K11 MUSEA, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong. mingfathouse.com

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GROWN-UP GETAWAYS

Yummy mummys Fancy treating yourself to a mid-winter wellness boost? Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve uncovered some of the most relaxing spa escapes in Asia

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Take time out for two restorative wellbeing programmes which have been specially developed by the resort for 2020. Both ‘journeys’ run for a minimum of three nights, which means you get to relax away from it all in the paradisal Anambas Islands. You’ll get to

practice the six key pillars of wellbeing - physical, emotional, intellectual, spiritual, social and environmental - while soaking up the beaches, forests and lagoons of Bawah’s six tropical islands. Sign up for Journey to Calm to combat stress and focus on your breathing and

mindfulness, alongside daily yoga and floating meditation, a garden-to-glass health tonic class and calming daily spa treatments. Or reboot with Journey to Vitality, with one-to-one training sessions, postural analysis, paddleboard yoga, private cooking classes

and rejuvenating daily spa treatments. Either way, you’ll return home with a whole new mindset. A three-night Wellbeing Journey starts at US$6,940 based on two people sharing on an all-inclusive basis. bawahreserve.com

Cam Ranh, Vietnam

Spa treats beckon at Anam, Cam Rahn

Find your zen with a spa package at the sumptuous Anam resort in Cam Ranh. Each treatment is tailored to your birth year, Chinese zodiac sign and zodiac element. The resort’s ‘elements spa specialist’ assesses your birth year to create a customized treatment plan. So if, for example, it turns out you’re a ‘wood-horse’ combination, you would be generally optimistic but prone to high levels of work-induced stress. The tailored spa package would include a bamboo massage using bamboo to roll and knead tissue to alleviate tension and soothe

muscle aches and pains. This would be followed up with a cleansing coffee scrub and rosemary essential oil and aloe vera tea to encourage relaxation. Yoga and meditation sessions are also available with the resort’s resident yogi. And when you’re not in the spa, the Anam boasts three pools, four restaurants, three bars and a 300m stretch of private beachfront. Nightly rates start from US$180. The Vietnamese Zodiac Spa package costs 3,000,000 VND per person per treatment and is available until June, 2020. theanam.com

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GROWN-UP GETAWAYS

Bawah Reserve, Indonesia

GROWN-UP GETAWAYS

Sailing and spas make for a blissful combination on Lan Ha Bay

Lan Ha Bay, Vietnam Relax with a wellness-focused cruise in northern Vietnam. The recently launched Senses of Lan wellness package on board the ten-birth Ylang will see you sailing the stunning limestone seascape of the Gulf of Tonkin. Lan Ha Bay is just south of the muchvisited Halong Bay, but is much quieter. And unlike Halong Bay, it also boasts numerous white sandy beaches, visits to which have been incorporated into Ylang’s three-day/two-night voyage. Ylang’s expansive spa takes up around half of the upper deck and offers three private treatment rooms, a reflexology area, a sauna, steam bath and wellness studio. And the ship’s culinary offerings will keep you on your wellness track, with an emphasis on light, fresh Vietnamese cuisine and vegetarian dishes. Eat and enjoy the knock-out views through the glass-fronted restaurant, with almost 360-degree views of the bay. Further onboard activities include singing bowl meditation and early morning tai chi lessons. Offshore, enjoy hiking and cycling on Cat Ba Island, kayaking in the bay - or simply relaxing on those white sandy beaches. Prices start at US$527 per person for the two-night cruise based on double sharing occupancy. heritage-line.com 76 Asia Family Traveller

Goop wellness sets sail Gwyneth Paltrow’s oftcontroversial lifestyle company, Goop, has partnered with a cruise line to offer an 11-night wellness trip on the Mediterranean this summer. The voyage departs Barcelona on August 26 and returns on September 6. It will include ‘trailblazing healers, transformative workshops and goopy perks’, according to the company blurb. If you book a suite (prices start at US$4,199) you will be able to add-on a one-day, Goop at Sea experience (at a cost of $750). Paltrow will also be stepping on-board to take part in a ‘mind, body and soul’ Q&A session. Further activities include a fitness centre offering cycling and hot yoga, a jogging track and bungee.

Amanemu, Japan Strap on your walking shoes for a four-night, Forest Bathing & Onsen Retreat, hiking the ancient pilgrimage routes of Kumano Kodo in southern Japan. Launching in April, the retreat will combine the Japanese bathing tradition of onsen with forest bathing along the trails in the remote Kii Mountains. The hiking routes lead participants past streams, rivers and waterfall-laced mountains and through cedar and cypress forests to sacred shrines. The Kumano Kodo is a UNESCO world heritage route and the perfect location for Shinrin-yoku, or ‘taking in the forest atmosphere’, also known as ‘forest bathing’. Amanemu is located in an area laden with natural hot springs. After a long day hiking, what could be nicer than relaxing in an onsen? Dip into the 2,000 sqm communal bathing onsen, or there are two private spa pavilions offering indoor and outdoor onsen. The retreat also includes breathing practice, Zazen meditation, shiatsu, acupuncture and water-based body work treatment. Amanemu offers a range of retreats, they run for a minimum of three nights and prices start at US$1,000. aman.com

GROWN-UP GETAWAYS

City escapes

The Peninsula

Don’t have time for a full-blown retreat? Gayatri Bauhmik reviews what Hong Kong’s hotels have to offer this spring

InterContinental Hong Kong

If you’re looking for a relaxing spa experience that combines a restorative treatment with a foodie treat, you’ll want to slip into I-Spa at the InterContinental Hong Kong. Their new Winter Urban Escape is exactly what you need to perk yourself up during the season’s dull, cold days. My experience begins at the I-Spa lounge, where guests are invited to sink into serenity amidst soothing neutral tones of browns and earth pinks while enjoying a cup of jasmine or ginger tea. The consultation form I’m asked to fill out is surprisingly short, but I’m quickly whisked away to the treatment room for a more in-depth consultation with my therapist. After choosing an aromatherapy oil – mine is a relaxing blend that includes lavender – the therapist begins the one-hour body massage. With a combination of smooth, flowing strokes and

pressure-point manipulation, my body relaxes very quickly; the therapist concentrates on particular areas of tension to effectively remove stress. By the end of the hour, my body feels light and rejuvenated. The spa experience is rather no frills – there’s no lingering in heat facilities or tea lounges here – but it is very effective. The escape includes a HK$300 credit to spend at the hotel’s Lobby Lounge, so after the massage, I head downstairs to refuel. There’s a wide range of international snacks and meals on offer, but I opt for the new seasonal afternoon tea – a collaboration with French parfumerie Diptyque – which is divine and sets the seal on an afternoon of pampering. I-Spa Winter Urban Escape: HK$988 + 10% service. Available until March 31, 2020. Book 48 hours ahead at ichk-eshop.com

Sometimes, you just need a little girl time. When that mood strikes this spring, check into The Peninsula Spa with a fellow mummy for their new Spa Day with My Bestie package. You’ll enjoy a day of pampering, food – and girl talk, of course. On arrival, we quickly fill out detailed consultation forms in the beautifully-decorated reception area before heading downstairs to spend some time at the spa’s heat facilities. We alternate between the sauna and steam room before moving into the relaxation lounge where we enjoy fresh fruits and coconut water – along with spectacular views – from the comfort of a plush lounger. When it’s time for our treatment, we’re collected by the therapists and taken into individual treatment rooms (though private spa suites are available at an additional cost). The room is cosy with rich, plush furnishings and Oriental-inspired décor. I hunker down on the impossibly comfortable table and slip under the spell of a blissful 75-minute massage - it’s entirely possible I fell asleep while the well-trained therapist kneaded my achy

muscles into submission. When the treatment’s over, I wander downstairs in a dazed state of pure bliss to meet my friend for the next part of the package. Which, incidentally, is dinner (or lunch, if you book early in the day) at The Lobby. We’re here to enjoy a delicious, restorative threecourse meal and are given three set options to choose from (these change regularly to use the best ingredients of the season). I opt to begin the meal with a Parma ham and baby spinach salad, then move onto a roasted US choice beef tenderloin (with sautéed veggies and gratin dauphinoise potatoes) and finish with a light, fresh pavlova. Of course, the meal was decadent, delicious and perfectly filling – this is The Peninsula, after all, so you can hardly go wrong with the food here! Relaxed and sated, I make my way back home – but I’m already planning my next visit. Spa Day with My Bestie: From HK$3,856. Available until March 31, 2020. Call +852-2696-6682 or email spaphk@peninsula.com for a booking.

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E XPAT T RAVE L L I NG M UM

Call the medic

Travelling with children can have unexpected consequences, discovers our struggling mum

have spent the entire Christmas, New Year and Chinese New Year festive break in the UK and Thailand hobbling around with a torn hip flexor. And then the Blonde Child broke her leg. Hanging around in A&E, memories of holidays past and other illnesses sprang up. Why is it every single time I spend horrifically large amounts of money on a holiday or long-haul flight (or indeed both), there is some kind of medical mishap hours before we’re due to get on the plane? A few years ago, I was invited to attend a talk about adventurous family travel with a panel of ‘experts’. One lady in the audience asked a rather sensible question about curtailing adventure travel with a baby in tow due to the unavailability of comprehensive medical care in off-the-beaten track destinations. “Surely a resort-type holiday would be more sensible when children are tiny?” she asked. “Oh no,” answered the (childless) expert. “As long as you’ve got some Nurofen and Band Aids, you should definitely carry on with your adventurous plans!” I nearly snorted out my lukewarm savvy b. From bitter experience I know that even a day trip down the road can end in disaster when there are small children involved. By the end of our ten-year residency in Sydney in the early 2000s, we had frequented almost every major hospital on the NSW coast. 78 Asia Family Traveller

Nowra? Oh yes, that was the day we’d been invited to join friends on the south coast for a picnic. All was going swimmingly until the Sporty Child fell off the flying fox and had to have the back of her head glued together. Gosford? Ah, yes. That was again a day we’d been invited to join friends for a picnic, this time

way of saying - buy the damn travel insurance. A couple of years ago we decided to go a little bit off-grid with our holiday destination (step AWAY from the Shangri-La) and booked ten days with friends on a remote island in Indonesia. Obviously they were friends with no knowledge of our track record of recreationally-

Expat Travelling Mum lives in Hong Kong with her four travel-loving children and a weary husband

on a Central Coast beach. Again, all was going marvellously, until the Teen Child swam into a smack of blue bottle jellyfish and ended up in an ambulance. “When we got the call, we thought it must be a shark!” laughed the amenable paramedic. Oh my god, I thought, don’t even go there. Funnily enough, by the time we left Australia in 2010, the invites had dried up somewhat. And the overseas trips haven’t fared much better. Singapore? Chicken Pox. Italy? Infected mosquito bite requiring surgical removal. You get the picture. Which I guess is a long-winded

based medical emergencies and the whole holiday was trucking along quite nicely. Until one afternoon when I was settling down for a massage on the verandah of our little island hut. As the soporific ministrations of my masseuse began to send me into a light doze, I could suddenly hear a small voice piercing the tranquility. “Hello?” the voice called. Mothering instinct hauled me out of my somnolent state with a start. Kicking off my sarong I heaved myself up and turned towards the child calling over to me, who was by now becoming quite shrill. “Sorry!” he continued.

“It was an accident!” Charging after the child, I arrived at the bar to find the Boy Child seated on a bar stall with a blood-soaked bandage hastily wrapped around his head. It turned out he and a few of his friends had been playing cricket on the beach with a piece of driftwood. Unfortunately the Boy Child had run behind the batsman just as he was pulling the bat back for a hefty thwack at the tennis ball. The bat had made crunching contact with my little boy’s head. Absolutely nobody’s fault and the poor little cricketers were utterly distraught. It was just another one of ‘those’ childhood incidents. Fortunately the island resort sprang into action and offered us the speedboat to whizz the Boy Child to the nearest hospital. The second option was to call out an emergency medical helicopter from Singapore. I think my husband physically winced at that suggestion. “What’s the nearest hospital like?” I tentatively asked. “Well, it’s better than it was,” came the unconvincing reply. In the end, as the Boy Child seemed to be rallying and hadn’t actually lost consciousness, we decided to give the local hospital a go and three hours later his head was fully chicken-wired up. “They’re quite old-fashioned stitches,” remarked our GP back in Hong Kong. “But they’ve done the job.” The following summer we were back at a Shangri-La. So I guess the moral of the tale is, be careful out there. And don’t forget the Band Aids.