Fashizblack Magazine - September-October 2010 issue : Solange, our very own muse. by FASHIZBLACK

COTE MINOU

Crédits photos : Nawcious Fliksosik,Vanessa Caesar,

VIDA MAHIMBO

KOZBY WORLD SOLOME

KIRETTE COUTURE

FASHIZâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RUNWAY It is right in the middle of the cosmopolitan Big Apple that Adiat Disu, a Fashion industry entrepreneur, decided to organize a fashion week that would gather several African designers. The event took place from July 12th to July 18th, with the support of very famous brands like Iman Cosmectics. Among the present designers, were the Cameroonians of Cote Minou and Kirette Couture, the South African Darryl Jagga and the Ghanaian Charlene Amankwah.

CHARLELNE AMANKWAH CHIANU INTERNATIONAL

KOSIBAH

OSUN DESIGNS

SUMMARY FASHIZ’ACCESS’: 7 accessories for this back to school period Page 12 FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Back to School/Work Essentials Page 14 FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Five pairs for back to school/work Page 16 FASHIZ’TRENDS : Let your feet be spectators ! Page 18 FASHIZ’TRENDS : Living the Beige Life Page 20 FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Fashionably androgynous Page 22 FASHIZ’TRENDS : This Fall sneakers selection Page 24 FASHIZ’ACCESS : Scarfs as standards Page 26 FASHIZ’TRENDS : Teddy Boys Page 28 FASHIZ’ZOOM : Great season for African Fashion Page 30 FASHIZ’MODEL : Joan Smalls Page 40 FASHIZ’MODEL : Anais Mali Page 42 FASHIZ’FOCUS : USA : Promised land for black designers? Page 44 FASHIZ’WISHLIST : How to wear your combishort Page 48

FASHIZ’FOCUS : Designers’s Confessions Page 49 EDITORIAL : Solange, the ultimate cool girl Page 64 INTERVIEW : Solange Knowles in 10 Questions Page 74 FASHIZ’ZOOM : In Solange Knowles’ s wardrobe Page 82 FASHIZ’FOCUS : Did Zara go too far this time ? Page 84 FASHIZ’HOTSPOT : We tested studio beyoga Page 88 EDITORIAL : The escape Page 92 FASHIZ’ACCESS : Little Treasure Page 104 FASHIZ’BEAUTY : The Hair extensions 101 Page 108 EDITORIAL : The patient beauty page 112 FASHIZ’BEAUTY : 4 Make Up BRANDS Made in USA Page 122 FASHIZ’MUSIC : SMOD, The Foreign Exchange, Bilal & Trey Songz Page 128 CULTURAL SCHEDULE Page 132 ADDRESS BOOK Page 136

Editorial Director Paola-Audrey Ndengue Fashion Editor-in-chief Raissa Tchoulague Fashion Editors F.R, Paul-Arthur J-M, Stella Mpoy Culture Editors Damien ÂŤKeyzzÂť Ribeiro Beauty Editors Love Voundi & Sam Translators Kim-Kevin Ninkuru (Main translator), Leila Poumbga Production Paola-Audrey Ndengue & Laura Eboa Songue Communication & marketing Laura Eboa Songue Webmastering & graphism Patrick Privat & Stressy Bitody

Special thanks to the following people, for their contribution to this issue : Photographer : Itaysha Jordan Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Assistant : Roddy Wardrobe : Chichi et Ogo Offodile Make Up : Lottie Hair : Dante Blandshaw Manucurist : Crystal Clark Thanks to Mark, Liz & Indigo for their availability, to Monique & Erica at Akwaaba Mansion, Brooklyn, NY( http://www.akwaaba.com ) and of course..to Solange K.

THE EDITOR’S LETTER

September.... What a month ! To begin with, we are back to work, just like you. Some changes here and there, a quick glance at our favorite fashion shows ( page 30 ), a bit of shopping (page 22 & page 24) and here we are, ready to go again for an exciting 2010-2011 year . One year ago exactly, in our September 2009 issue, i made an appointment with you, in order to celebrate a second birthday...OUR birthday ! Indeed, the 14th of September 2008, FashizBlack Magazine was born. So as to enjoy it like we should, we invited the ultimate FashizBlack girl, the one who keeps on inspiring us in so many ways ; Solange Knowles . For a couple of months now, she somehow became modern African Fashion’s ambassador (page 64). This specific kind of Afro style, aware of its environment, a style which can blend in with so many others..that is THE Fashion we’ve been militating for since 2008 . Yet, Solange managed to establish her own personality, and this isn’t one easy thing to do when your sister’s name is Beyoncé Knowles . It hasn’t been easy neither for the 4 designers we discussed with . Naana B., Washington Roberts, Farai Simoyi and Tennille McMillan are Afro-American Fashion scene rising stars. We couldn’t find any better to tell us if, yes or no, being a black fashion designer in the US is easier than it is anywhere else (page 49). If there’s no typical answer to the question, their optimisim and determination will certainly tip the scales . Then, finally. In this celebration day, the whole team and i would love to let you know how grateful we are, for your suggestions, support and all you’ve been doing to make FashizBlack getting bigger every day. Thanks to you all and...would you mind toasting a cup of champagne with us ?

P.A.N

FASH

HION

Fashiz’

Access’

7 ACCESSORIES FOR THIS BACK TO SCHOOL PERIOD by F.R

or a back to school/work period that is said to be classic but extremely chic, we picked up seven accessories so you can follow this season motto; «effortless chic».

1. AMERICAN APPAREL - 115 EUROS 2. H&M- 70 EUROS 3. ASOS - 25 EUROS 4. MARC BY MARC JACOBS - 275 EUROS 5. PAREGARBIA - 180 EUROS 6. TOP SHOP - 20 EUROS 7. MISS SELFRIDGE - 45 EUROS

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

TRENDS

7. 4.

5. FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

WISHLIST

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

Fashiz’

Wishlist

BACK TO SCHOOL/WORK ESSENTIALS 8.

by Stella-Tshika Mpoy

f, for a lot of us, September matches with low spirits, here is a taste of the trendy essentials of this back to school/work period, that will make you change your minds in many ways.

1. LYLE AND SCOTT HARRIGTON - 180 EUROS 2. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN RANTUS ORLATO - 745 EUROS 3. RAY BAN - 129 EUROS 4. 666 JAMES LED - 115 EUROS 5. BACKPACK - FROST RIVER - 195 EUROS 6. NEW LOOK - 30 EUROS 7. IPAD COVER - TRUSSARDI 1911 - 195 EUROS 8. SNOOD TOPMAN - 17 EUROS 9. PAUL SMITH - 135 EUROS

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

WISHLIST

CHLOE

BURBERRY From the loafer â&#x20AC;&#x201C;from Chloe- which stays on top of all Must-Have lists, to the unexpected return of the pointed toe shoe (Stella McCartney) buried in 1998 between the first and the second season of Sex and The City, the shoe choice, this season, requires to be large and eclectic. FASHIZBLACK team already chose ONE and ONLY ONE pair of shoes: it will be the beautiful Louis Vuitton pumps which has that retro elegance and sexy arch that will seduce every fan of the fifties.

STELLAMCCARTNEY PRADA LOUIS VUITTON

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

Fashiz’

Wishlist

FIVE PAIRS FOR BACK TO SCHOOL/WORK by F.R.

SAN

MAR

INA -

70 E

4 K-

R EU

URO

COSM

RIDGE MISS SELF

110 EUROS

ASOS

- 110 E

UROS

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ROS

EU - 145

Fashiz’

Trends

LET YOUR FEET BE SPECTATORS ! by Stella-Tshika Mpoy

JUNYA WATANABE

LANVIN

GIORGIO ARMANI

GUCCI

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

TRENDS Aside from this season superstars , which are sneakers and boots, here is a newborn from the outdated charm of the 3o’s & 40’s : the Spectators, some bicolor laced-up shoes. Thrown in the fashion purgatory since the 60’s, they are back again in a fashion sphere that is more than ever marked with nostalgia. But we can be relieved, we are over with the old-fashioned wearing of the black & white, or brown & white Spectators. Now it’s time for subtle color plays – black and burgundy, different shades of brown or even matching tones- that are more prone to bring up both these little vintage and contemporary touches to your outfits. In leather, suede, or in their sneakers versions… Whatever it is, as long as we can have fun with it.

GENERIC SURPLUS BROGUE - 60 EUROS

KEDS CHAMPION - 45 EUROS

VANS VAULT SPECTATOR LX - NO INFORMATION ABOUT THE PRICE FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

Fashizâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Trends LIVING THE BEIGE LIFE

by F.R.

rought by Hannah McGibbon and her seventies neo-preppy style, Beige is the new black at Chloe for this back to school period. Amber, brown, Havana, honey or camel, this colour is the best for black skinned and mixed people. It will be associated to other colours like grey, or even more surprising : vermillion red (another hot colour for this season), and can also be paired with jean. The MUST-HAVE of this season, that you will need to get ASAP, is the camel coat Max Mara way, which will give a chic touch to any of your winter outfits.

1. FROM LEFT TO RIGHT : DRIES VAN NOTEN - CHLOE - MAX MARA 2. FROM LEFT TO RIGHT : GUCCI - MICHAEL KORS

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

TRENDS

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

Fashiz’

Wishlist

FASHIONABLY ANDROGYNOUS

by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie

all is almost here and it’s already time to put those shorts and miniskirts back in the closet. However, it’s not time to bring back fur coats and wool vests yet. For now, you still have time to enjoy blazers to match a tailoring look leaning between masculine and feminine.

1. COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS, 95€ 2. CACHE-CACHE, 29,95€ 3. ZARA, 49,95€ 4. NEW LOOK-12€ 5. H&M-39,95€ 6. TOPSHOP, 20€ 7. ANDRÉ-69€

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

WISHLIST 4. 1. 5.

6. 2.

3. FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

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Trends

THIS FALL SNEAKERS SELECTION by F.R.

f it is undeniable that on the catwalks, the star shoe of this season is the boot, we cannot but admit that for the next winter, sneakers are still climbing up in the urban man wardrobe. And this movement is supported by the Hype and the new designers’ wave like Lucas Ossenchijver, who inspired the revival at Lanvin Homme. So here is a little selection for your feet’s greatest pleasure.

1. SUPRA SKYTOP II - 110 EUROS 2. TRUSSARDI 1911 - 410 EUROS 3. YVES SAINT LAURENT - ON-DEMAND PRICE 4. ADIDAS HARDLAND - 90 EUROS 5. CONVERSE JACK PURCELL BOAT MID - 70 EUROS 6. NEW BALANCE PRO HI - 45 EUROS 7. GIULIANO FUJIWARA - PRIX NON COMMUNIQUE 8. CLAE JONES 110 EUROS SUR REVOLVECLOTHING.COM 9. NIKE AIR CHUKKA - 85 EUROS 10. ALIFE CHUCK - 95 EUROS 11. GUCCI HI TOP LACE - PRIX SUR DE DEMANDE 12. ADIDAS X JEREMY SCOTT - 200 EUROS 13. HUF HUPPER - 55 EUROS - WWW.HUFSF.COM 14. LACOSTE STORM - 120 EUROS 15. RADII FOOTWEAR - ON-DEMAND PRICE

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TRENDS

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

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Access’

SCARFS AS STANDARDS by Stella Tshika-Mpoy

s ties went skinnier in the necklines, the scarf is meant to be the rising manly accessory for the next winter. Ultimate fancy of a relatively gloomy closet, it can be worn with an eruditely studied disregard, and like all the basics, is always prone to suit all your fantasies.

1. FROM LEFT TO RIGHT : HERMES - H&M - DRIES VAN NOTEN 2. FROM LEFT TO RIGHT : JOHN VARVATOS - TOM FORD

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

ACCESS’

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

Fashiz’

Trends TEDDY BOYS by Stella Tshika-Mpoy

he teddy jacket is more than ever essential in a dressing in complete retro reminiscence. It is the American students’ emblematic jacket and it gives a vintage look along with a freshman college attitude.

1. FROM THE LEFT TO THE RIGHT : 3SUISSES - KAYNE WEST- GANT 2. FROM THE LEFT TO THE RIGHT : DELUXE - KRIS VAN ASSCHE

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

TRENDS

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Fashiz’

Zoom

SUMMER 2010 : GREAT SEASON FOR AFRICAN FASHION by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie Photos : Simon Deiner / SDR

ith summer behind us, we just can’t notice its biggest African fashion events which are Dakar Fashion Week, Cape Town Fashion Week and Africa Fashion Week. From Senegal’s capital to beautiful Johanesburg, all podiums rose to give African designers but also designers from other continents the chance to express their talent and creativity. Everybody gathered to bring the African fashion industry on a higher level.

ZOOM

AFRICA FASHION WEEK

ith Johanesburg hosting the World Cup, South-African fashion microcosm decided to take advantage of all the hype occasioned by the sportive competition. Johanesburg was vibrating then to the rhythm of supporters’ screaming in stadiums and to the sound of stilettos hammering the catwalks. Lamine Badian Kouyate (Xuly Bët) from Mali started the night with an interesting offer. He presented a collection that was inspired, as he says, by Grace Jones’ dark universe, his forever muse. Models dressed all in black were walking the runway one after the other. The Jamaican diva’s eccentricity and androgynous accents were for sure present, but you coud also see the designer’s urban touch. Ituen Basi’s show was also amazing. One more time, Ankara was the designer’s predilection fabric. On the menu: amazing prints, magnificently coloured pieces and clothes that are naturally cheerful. However, as seasons go by, we have more and more More more difficulties separating one of the Nigerian designer’s collection to another...Let’s just keep hoping that next time, the déjà vu impression will only be a bad memory.

pecial guest of fashion week was American designer Laquan Smith whose fashion sense was more than breathtaking. His collection was futuristic and displayed exaggerated, owned and claimed femininity. Curves are far from being hidden while some shoulders, dressed with sequins, are owned up with originality. Deep blue dresses, graphic and structured skirts, short and adjusted vests: Smith has been pertinent from the start until the end. He makes it in our redaction’s top list of favourites designers. Another African fashion favourite that was there is David Tlale who held a fashion speech that was extremely superb. His collection was recalling softly Theyskens years at Nina Ricci, it was focused a lot on the night. The dresses are fantasylike and have a touch of Italian baroque. As usual with the designer, the boundaries of fashion and ready-to-wear are pushed to the limit to enter a world of poetry and art. Finally, the great and excellent discovery has been “Boudoir D’Huitres” label, with American designer from Ghana, Mimi Plange, as the leader of the brand. The perfect motto for their collection could be: Elegance-Glamour-Romanticism. With leather, silk and lace, the BDH woman is chic in all circumstances, with a touch of Victorian look, structure and a lot of confidence.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

XULY BËT

BOUDOIR D’HUITRES

DAVID TLALE

CHRISTIE BROWN

DEOLA SAGOE

HENI

ITUEN BASI

LAQUAN SMITH

KOKESTO CHIEPE

ZOOM

DAKAR FASHION WEEK

n Senegal, it’s Parisian designer Adama Paris, from the country, who creates the event with her fashion week gathering designers from different horizons. We had the chance to discover numerous designers with different worlds, and to make a stronger opinion about renowned designers. The first one to attract our attention was Eva Gabarra and her fantasy fashion. The different and adventurous forms and the graphics both contributed to the collection’s charm. We also kept in mind Paul Herve Elisabeth, from Martinique, because of his original collection and his ethnic inspiration with particular accents. Adama Paris’s collection was a success as well and at her image. Apart from timeless chic celebration brought by the colour black, the models were audaciously sexy without being vulgar. Only problem: the lack of “wearability” of a lot of collections.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

ADAMA PARIS AMADOU DIOP

PALESA MOKUBUNG

PAUL HERVÉ ELISABETH

EVA GABARA

ZOOM

CAPETOWN FASHION WEEK

ack on south-african territory with fashion week at Cap. Shorter than the one in Johanesburg, it’s not less of good quality. The majority of designers are local like Suzaan Heyns and Craig Port. At Fashizblack, we enjoyed a lot the eclecticism that came out of this Cape Town Fashion Week. At Stephania Morland’s fashion show for example, models wore nude colour outfits, accessorized to give a neo-bohemian and girly aspect to the ensemble. Viyella brand had a noticeable show with their men collection, coloured, classy, chic with a touch of humour. David West’s show was really impressive with a collection inspired from pop and the fifties, and an excellent work on shapes and constructions.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

SUZAAN HEYNS

CRAIG PORT

VIYELLA

STONED CHERIE

Fashiz’

Model JOAN SMALLS by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie

Crédits photos : Models.com, Imaxtree, Getty Images

nless you want to emigrate to Mars, it will be almost impossible not to hear of her this winter. It took Joan Small three years to reach the higher realms of modelling, after signing up with Elite in 2007. During this fall winter fashion week, she paraded for Etro, Cavalli, Anna Sui, Burberry, Prada, Valentino and YSL. Moreover, she appeared in Givenchy and Gucci fall ad campaigns and several photoshoots for prestigious magazines. Considering her satin complexion, endless legs and devastating smile, it was to be expected that she’d success.

PROFILE: Date of birth: 01/01/1988 Measurements: 81-60-88 Height: 180cm Shoe size: 41 Agency: IMG

BACKSTAGE JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER

BURBERRY

GIVENCHY CAMPAIGN FW 2010-2011

PRADA

VALENTINO

Fashiz’

Model ANAÏS MALI

by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie

ew to the business, this mixed-race girl of Chadian and Polish origins is already one of the models of tomorrow. Angelic face, really good-looking, Anais Mali has everything to tread the most popular catwalks. French, she pursues a brilliant career in the US. No sooner had she become a model than she parades for L.A.M.B. ( Gwen Stefani’s brand), Betsey Johnson, Vivienne Westwood this october, Catherine Malandrin and Rachel Roy in february. The sites style.it and models.com already declared we should keep an eye on her. You can admire her looking at the fall Levi’s ad campaign that featured Anais Mali, among other models.

PROFILE: Date of birth: 01/22/1991 Measurements: 83-60-89 Height: 174cm Shoe size: 38 Agencies: Wilhelmina (NY City) Karin Models (Paris)

CYNTHIA STEFFE FW 2010-2011

SOPHIE THEALLET SS 2010 CATHERINE MALANDRINO FW 2010-2011

Fashiz’

Focus

USA: PROMISED LAND FOR BLACK DESIGNERS? by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie

If, in France, Afro-Caribbean designers struggle to stand out –and they’re far from not being talented-, in the USA, things are a little different. A lot of African and African-American designers make it to the big places in the industry. Let’s take a closer look on the “black” fashion scene in the Uncle Sam’s country.

THE BIRTH OF A MARKET: Historically, it is said that it all begun with designers like Stephen Burrows, first AfricanAmerican designer to ever win a Coty Award (reward for the best American designer, EN) in the seventies. Some African-Americans, who were in the process of becoming middle-class and to whom affirmative action (positive discrimination) was no stranger to, most of them being attorneys or doctors; or the “Black Hollywood” opening up, constituted a strong amount of consumers. Of course big labels like Louis Vuitton, Gucci or Chanel were on the top list for this custom in particular, some new designers start to emerge and appear as new options. It’s Laquan Smith’s case, 21 years old, whose young label is get-

ting more and more recognition as the seasons pass. Multi-label Workshop buyers, New York chic Upper East Side, have already fell in love with his creations which have a subtle touch of eccentricity and glamour. Same thing for Lady Gaga who can’t get enough of Laquan’s sequin leggings or Cassie and Nicki Minaj who made of his dresses the ultimate outfit.

WHEN CELEBRITIES DROP IN: Celebrities have been the perfect “platform” for new designers since the end of The Bold and The Beautiful era. In that category, there is Maya Lake whose label Boxing Kitten is one of Knowles sisters favourite (see Solange Knowles photoshoot), Farai Simoyi, Naana B., Côté Minou, Washington Roberts, Tennille McMillan, Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty from SUNO…All of them are starting to get more media coverage and especially a widely diversified custom. It’s even a stronger signal since it’s a country where communitarianism is still a fragile topic. Although financially-wise those designers

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

FOCUS can be struggling, some black people in the business like Adiat Disu and her fashion agency Adiree don’t hesitate anymore and invest money in those young and promising designers. As Burrows was recently confessing: “It’s a really hard industry to be in, and financial supports are not always present. And it’s harder for black designers. The key is solidarity but also talent.” Next to this new trend, we have veterans like Tracy Reese who owes her success –as wellto celebrities’ attraction to her creations. Alicia Keys, Kelly Rowland and Michelle Obama are usual customers of this Detroit native woman. There’s also Patrice Robinson, one of a few African-American at the head of an international brand. After being formed at Giorgio Armani and Perry Ellis, he became, in 2007, GAP’s artistic director and gave a new inspiration to the American giant of clothing.

STREETWEAR REIGN: How one could talk about black designers in the USA without talking about the empire of streetwear? In the late nineties, black celebrities (especially rappers) decide to create their own labels which had an average success at that time. Sean John by P.Diddy, Rocawear by Jay-Z, Apple Bottoms and Vokal by Nelly, Phat Farm by Russel Simmons and its twin sister Baby Phat that was once owned by Kimora Lee Simmons-Onsou, are or have been the biggest names in a market that went over billions of dollars in 2006. Even though good taste and good quality of the fabric are sometimes an option, those labels are usually solicited a lot by people between 15 and 35 years old. However, labels that are qualified as “urban” and are almost exclusively attached to HipHop and its trends tend to disappear prema- ►►►

PATRICE ROBINSON FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

FOCUS

SESSILEE LOPEZ FOR LAQUAN SMITH F/W 2010/2011

turely. The best example shall be Daymond John, who launched his label called For Us By Us (mostly known as FUBU) and paved the way for a lot of similar labels...before missing the 2000’s era’s turn and Rap evolution essentially. Or the epic fail of Eve’s brand, Fetish, that has now disappeared.

USA vs FRANCE ? The “black” fashion scene still has a long way to go in the USA but it’s undeniable that that the diversification of potential markets is a positive indicator for the years to come. Despite that, because of its importance, we can’t help but compare overseas black designers to their French colleagues. Both type of designers might be going through the same

problems (lack of visibility, latent racism, doubting investor...), the possibility of evaluating consummers of an «ethnic» fashon is an advantage that is not to be neglected, especially when it comes to promote a fabric that holds as much identity as wax or mud cloth. Is France ready to put its rather hypocritical republican principle on the side, and finally let new talents emerge by focusing on the numbered evaluations of the black population market in the country? It’s not about to happen anytime soon, but while we’re waiting for those changes, we asked 4 designers about their stories, their hopes and their aspirations. ■

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

FOCUS

SUNO, RESORT 2011

TRACY REESE, CROISIÈRE 2011

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Fashiz’

Wishlist

HOW TO WEAR YOUR COMBISHORT by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie

It was the superstar trend last summer, and is holding tight on its place this fall. Some look ideas to stay trendy in combishorts

H&M, 39,95€ Pimkie-5,95€ Topshop-45€

San

Mari

na, 7

Zara, 119€

9€

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Focus

DESIGNERS’S CONFESSIONS by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie

our visions, four opinions about fashion, four styles, but one amazing & unquestionable talent, mixed up with a tangible passion for what they do. Washington Roberts, Tennille McMillan (naKIMuli), Farai Simoyi (FARAI) and Naana B. are African descents designers who are evolving in the US and we believe it is safe to bet that they will make it. For our September issue, we had the opportunity to chat with each one of them. Ambition, creation, frustration: they told us EVERYTHING.

FOCUS

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

WASHINGTON ROBERTS So I took an internship job as an assistant stylist to Stylist KitheBrewster, which later on turned into a freelance job. I wanted to be learnhow to speak to buyers and have an understanding of what buyers arelooWASHINGTON ROBERTS : Washington king, so took I an internship job as a sales Roberts : I was born and raised in Lagos, assistant at Showroom 7.Then I went on Nigeria by my Grandparents. My Grandto intern at William Rast, J.Lindeberg, mother was a coveted seamstress. From and Paris68 and now, at American Rag. I time to time I used to play with the sewing have learned a lot from all this internship machine and i will get beat up by my and freelance jobs. There’s still a lot to be grandmother, because i used to break the learned in this industry. needles. Upon my graduation from Igbobi College Yaba, in Lagos with a Science FM : From Chemistry fo Fashion! What background, I moved to the States to live with my parents and pursue my career as a path! What best defines the ideal Washington Roberts woman? a Chemical Engineer. I was always designing my own clothes from time to time W.R : She is elegant, sophisticated yet moand give it to a tailor to make it for me. dern. Washington Roberts always makes And everyone always seems to love my designs. It is during a school break in 2006 her feel beautiful and confident. Ready to live her life with impeccable taste and that I did a research on fashion schools. style. Then I realized my love for fashion and no matter how much I fight it, this is where my passion lies. So in August 2006 I FM : Tell us about your influences, your enrolled in a Fashion and Merchandising inspirations, your icons… program in Katherine Gibbs, but decided to drop out cause I was having problem W.R : My inspirations comes from paying my tuition, plus I felt like I wasn’t anywhere, everyday women, movies, going to learn everything behind the desk. images, and everyday life experience. I I wanted to experience it in the real world.

Fashizblack Magazine : Tell us a bit about yourself. When you first wanted to become a fashion designer?

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

FOCUS also love looking at other designers work especially the once that’s being doing it for a while and does it exceptionally well. Designers such as Ricardo Tisci, Chado Ralph Rucci, Oscar de La Renta, and the late Alexander Lee McQueen.

it hard for people not to acknowledge it. I’m also not designing because I want the fashion industry to validate me and accept me. I’m doing it because I love and enjoy what I do, and enjoy seeing Women wearing my designs.

FM : What is the structure of your collections ?

FM : Indeed. You are based in New York. Does this cosmopolitan city give you more opportunities ?

W.R : As a designer, I always focused on silhouette and design details. I design interchangeable items that work together to create an entire wardrobe that goes from day to evening, weekday to weekend, and season to season.

FM : What are the fabrics that you mostly use ? W.R : I’m in love with luxury and elegant fabrics such as Silks, Wools, Wool flannels, Cashmere, Silk and wool blends and Finer fabrics.

W.R : The local fashion scene isn’t that bad; unfortunately this is where you find a lot of talented black designer. I refused to settle for only the local fashion scene, I believe I have what it takes to make an impact in the world of fashion. To also show that among black people, you can have find a high fashion designer and that we can also have high end fashion house.

FM : You are talking about owning a couture fashion house. What are your feelings about the lack of diversity when it comes to this matter ?

FM : Do you think it’s more difficult for a black designer than it is for a white W.R : I’m not so happy about it, but I can’t sit here and complain about it which isn’t one, to make it in the USA ?

going to change anything. I think lack of monetary support, lack of support from W.R : Yes, I think it is, because I am less likely to be recognized and accepted. With friends, family and the black community also play a big role. As a black designer, it that being said, I can’t settle for that as is very hard to get an investor or backer to an excuse not to make it. Which is why take your brand to the next level. And this I challenge myself to create and show is one of the biggest reasons why there growth in each of every collection. When are lack of black designers. I do believe you do an exceptional work, you make

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

FOCUS this is going to change eventually.

FM : This season, we saw a lot of african fabrics and patterns on the runways. What do you think about this “ethnic” trend ? W.R : I think it’s great because it brings more attention to African fashion. It’s also very inspiring to see all these talented African designers getting recognition. Which gives emerging designers like myself hope and a bright future. ■

http://www.washingtonroberts.com/

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

TENNILLE MCMILLAN

Fashizblack Magazine : Hello Tenille, klyn, NY. I got the idea to launch naKIMuli when I was around 17 years old. I was thanks for taking the time to answer our questions. How was naKIMuli born ? always a quirky dresser and people would TENNILLE MCMILLAN : I am from Broo-

suggest I become a stylist. But once I began to teach myself how to sew, I realized

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FOCUS I liked designing more than styling.come a stylist. But once I began to teach myself how to sew, I realized I liked designing more than styling.

white consumers. I think the real racism and discrimination comes from the high fashion bureaucracies. But I think that we have to create our own fashion institutions instead of trying to conform and be a FM : What best defines the ideal Naki- part of the ones that do not want us. Black people exist in fashion. I think the muli woman? problem is with high fashion. Of course T.M : The ideal naKIMuli woman is defini- the reason for the lack of black people is racism, but it just makes no sense why the tely someone who likes color and unique silhouettes. She does not follow tends, she ratio of black to white people in fashion is so unbalanced. Also, the lack of exposure is an innovator. The naKIMuli woman is to the fashion world in the black commuan individual who wears what she wants; she marches to the beat of her own drum. nity contributes to it. But I see that changing and the internet is playing a major role in that. There are so many amazing FM : What are your favorites fabrics? black fashion designers, photographers, media outlets, including you guys here T.M : I think because of my dance backat FASHIZBLACK, that I think things will ground, I love using jersey fabrics. Anychange and maybe they will see what we thing that stretches is a great thing! And have to offer. But first we have to prove then I love African Dutch prints because that to ourselves, which is happening now. of the colors and prints.

FM : Some people talk about racial cleavage in the fashion industry… What is your opinion on that matter ? T.M : No. I mean, in some ways it may be but I don’t think that it has affected me. At least not directly. I think it is more difficult to be an emerging designer than a black designer because you are working with very little capital and that limits what you can do more than the color of your skin. I don’t experience much racism on the level that I am on. There is a huge community of black designers in NYC and my designs are embraced by black and

FM : This season, we saw a lot of African fabrics and patterns on the runways… T.M :: African prints and fabrics are just trends on the runway. But I don’t see it as a negative thing because : 1- the fashion world is all about trends and they chew and spit out trends so African prints/fabrics are no different 2- the people who love African prints were wearing it before the trend and they will continue to wear it after it is trendy. ■

http://nakimuli.com/

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FARAI SIMOYI Fashizblack Magazine : Tell us a bit about Farai Simoyi. Who is she, where does she come from and when did the idea to be a fashion designer first come about ? FARAI SIMOYI : To be honest… I’ve just grabbed life by the horns and I used the gifts that were given to me to make my dreams come true. I was born in London, England, originally from Zimbabwe, and grew up West Virginia. Ever since I was a little girl living in Zimbabwe I always loved making clothes for me and my dolls. My aunt actually studied at the London School of Fashion and had her own lingerie boutique and company in Zimbabwe. She was the one that taught me to knit and sew at a young age and thus the passion for creativity was born. It wasn’t until I was in my sophomore year in college that I realized that I could turn a passion and hobby into a career and that this was something I would be happy doing for the rest of my life.

FM : What best defines the ideal FARAI woman in a few words ? F.S : She is a worldly thinker and is aware

of global issues that are changing the fashion, music, and film industries among many others. She is independent, curious, daring, bold, intelligent, loving, and exudes beauty in all facets.

FM : What are your favorite fabrics to dress this woman in your opinion ? F.S : I use a lot of soft & hard woven fabrics. I love the structure that woven fabrics create on the body. To me designing is like creating a sculpture; building one element on top of another to create a masterpiece.

FM : You’ll be a part of New York’s Fashion Week. How are you feeling about it ? F.S : “Get Busy Living or Get Busy Dying” is a song from Fall Out Boy, I personally do not like the song but the title has a lot of truth to it. We can all choose to get busy living or get busy dying and with NYFW I’m…LIVING. This is what I’ve been waiting for my entire life and to finally be there is more than incredible. This is what I live for. I am excited, anxious, nervous, thrilled…I think I go through about 10 different emotions everyday. But it feels good

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FM : Can you tell us a bit about your collection ? What are your inspirations ? The global mood ? F.S : My 2011 Spring-Summer collection called ‘Primordia’ is a collective of design ideas that I’ve had for years and that I’ve placed in my Design Files Archive. A portion of the archive consists of ideas that I’ve presented to other design companies and have in one way or another been put to the side, but that I have always felt where amazing ideas. And the other portion of the archive are ideas that I’ve dreamed of and woken up to sketch. The global mood is multi-faceted. You will get a taste of African, British, American inspiration... The mood will be something that many people can relate to.

with much enthusiasm. They then asked me to send them images of my work and myself, and if you look at my past collections you will notice that they are very ethnic & afro centric…a few minutes after pressing the send button I get an email back saying they are no longer interested. Now, one can interpret this many different ways and maybe the way I’ve interpreted it could be completely wrong, but take it as you will.

FM : Do you think it’s more difficult for FM : Do you think there was a true evoa black designer than it is for a white lution this past few years? one to make it in the USA ? F.S : Absolutely. True Story: A few weeks ago I emailed a company, which I will not disclose their name, about possible goody bag sponsorship for my fashion show. The email had information about the line and my accomplishments and the company wrote back eager for more information

F.S : Things are getting better. There is still racism and discrimination, but here we have more of a chance to succeed. Most of my opportunities have been given to me by other black or minority designers or entrepreneurs. I’m starting to see us unite more and support each other; I think it’s a beautiful thing.

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FOCUS We are here…we are just taking other avenues to get there. We are coming in full force. You must have been thrilled to see all the African fabrics and patterns on the runways… As African Designers we have always found the beauty in African prints & African fabrics, but apparently this is the year that international designers are now jumping on the bandwagon. I can appreciate the Designers that are using these prints as a form of expression and a love for our culture, but for those that are doing it for promotional and commercial reasons because of the events such as the World Cup then I’m not in support of that.

fashion once had is spiraling because no one seems to have a purpose anymore. I believe if our fashion philosophies can have purpose we will see a change in the way we view ourselves and fashion.

FM : If you had to bring up your own definition of Fashion, what would it be ? F.S : If you’re a designer, design with a purpose and if you’re a fashion lover or consumer, dress with a purpose. Our fashion ideals have become sloppy in the way people design and in the way people dress because the purpose has been lost in translation. It starts with us as designers. Our mission should be to create clothing that makes a statement and can create positive emotion in our customer. We should want our customers to feel something when they wear our clothing, but sometimes I feel that the energy that

http://www.faraisimoyi.com/

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NAANA B Fashizblack Magazine : What is hidden behind the brand Naana B. ? Or better yet, who ? NAANA B : The idea behind the collection Naana B. evolved through an exciting creative process. Having attended college at Columbia University in New-York, I had the art and fashion world at my feet. I majored in Art History and Fine Arts. I concentrated in Painting and Steel Sculpture. I created a body of steel sculpture/ installation using fabrics and wood. I also worked on set and theatre designs. That is where I learned to use and sew fabrics. Once I finished my degree, I continued to experimenting with fabrics. In 2007, I then launched the line starting with handbags and then moving into clothing.

FM : What kind of woman are you talking to and what is the message you want to spread ? N.B : The ideal Naana B. woman is well traveled and knowledgeable about Africa as a leader in Art, Culture and Fashion. My influences are of course African Art and Textile Design. My inspirations are all things beautiful. I love to travel and have been all over the world - Brazil,

Paris, Switzerland, Costa Rica, Turkey, Puerto Rico, Barcelona, Madrid, South Africa, Zambia, Ghana, Kenya, Ethiopia and Mozambique, Jamaica, just to list a few. I love to meet different people and see new things – to really live – is to push the boundaries. I want my clothing line to reflect that. Turkish and Indian jewelry are also design inspirations, I love the intricacy.

FM : Africa is always coming back in your designs and in your words... N.B : That a big question – Africa is such a dynamic place. There are so many people and events that have made a profound influence on the world that come from Africa. Being from Ghana, I am very proud of the achievements we continue to build on. The World Cup was a wonderful way for the world to focus on the positive aspects of Africa. Africa means a sign of hope to me. I am an optimist and I believe Africa remains an untapped resources. It’s wonderful to see African Fashion take front stage in recent years.

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FM : What are the fabrics that you used the most?

FM : How do you interpret the lack of diversity America’s fashion industry ?

N.B : All the fabrics I use are made and printed in Ghana. The fabric is called “Sika” print. Sika means money. The fabrics are extraordinary - so diverse & beautiful.

N.B : I think it’s a challenge for all designers. But those of color especially. I believe that African designers have struggled over the years to break out of the so called “ethic-craft” category that has branded designers as not high fashion.

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FOCUS It is extremely refreshing to see African designers covered in high fashion magazines. I was very excited when Teen Vogue featured one of my pieces in March in their “Global Citizens” spread. The fashion world is coming around – but we have a long way to go. It’s a challenging market. I think racism has been prevalent in many industries – fashion is no different. It still prevails. It baffles me that the world seems more comfortable when a European launches an “Africa Inspired” collection. I do not believe there is lack of black people in the industry, I just believe those individuals haven’t been given the roles/assignments or collections that are in the limelight. I have met many many many talented African artists of all kinds in the fashion industry. The world just isn’t ready to discover that multitude.

FM : We can feel it’s a fight quite close to your heart...How would you sum it up ? Stay true to yourself and never change for anyone. Go in your own direction. I believe in my brand and I believe in Africa. I will continue to experiment with and develop clothing and accessories that speak to that. ■

http://www.naanab.com/

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Solange, the ultimate cool girl Photographer : Itaysha Jordan Photo Assistant : Roddy Wardrobe : Chichi and Ogo Offodile Makeup : Lottie Hair : Dante Blandshaw Manicurist : Crystal Clark

ew York, it’s the end of August . The heat is intense, and the big Apple’s streets are crowded. We arrived at the amazing Akwaaba Mansion in Brooklyn, and as we were getting ready for our photoshoot, our covergirl showed up: Solange Knowles aka SOLO . Energic, passionate, cracking plenty of jokes, with a funky sountrack as a background. Very accurate in her style picks, she could not be a better a model . Author, artist, Mother , fashionista, Solange is as eclectic as her style , and that’s why we love her . While some people would exclusively keep on seeing her as Beyoncé’s little sister, she slowly but surely succeeded in existing by herself both in her music and the medias . When she decided to go natural and shaved her hair, she had people talking but in the meantime, she became an icon for Pro-Nappy girls , and she didn’t stop there . Solange appeared as being independent and fearless regarding Hollywood’s conventions . She sang it : « F*ck the industry ! « When it comes to Fashion, among her fellow celebrities wearing nothing but mainstream brands, Solange would appear on a red carpet, fully dressed in African prints and there’s a reason to it : Solange LOVES prints and patterns, for better or worse . She is daring, she’s bold and she’s one of a kind . And for these few reasons, she’s a muse . OUR muse .

Blouse- Givenchy Jacket- Dries Van Noten Shorts - Jewel by Lisa Boots - Lawrence Scott Necklace- Dinosaur Designs

Dress - Yiorgos Eleftheriades Necklace - Who needs Diamonds Clogs - Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony

Top - Ingrid Valsov Shoes - Alaia Shoes

Jacket -Tina Kalivas Bathing Suit- Acne Skirt by- Boxing Kitten Shoes - Alexander Wang Bracelet- Laruicci Earrings- Vintage

ÂŤIt is trully my goal to make and create things that I am passionate about.Âť

Dress- Marc Jacobs Shoes- Nicholas Kirkwood

Shirt dress- Acne Necklace- Who needs Diamonds

Necklace- Dinasour Designs Shirt - Tina Kalivas Pants - Costello Ta pant

Solange Knowles in 10 Questions par Laura Eboa Songue

How important is Fashion to you ? Has it been the case since you were a child ?

Solange Knowles : Fashion is just another

red by people but places and culture. It can be that great book cover from the 60’s, that has totally influenced me with the mix of colors and patterns. Or even this table full from Kenya. Also, lately, a display of all kind of vintage toys. There was this plastic Rondald McDonald, a Mickey Mouse. Oh ! And of course, Chaka Khan. .

extension of expression. Since I was a little girl, I have always taken some kind of pride in that expression. When I was about 5 years old, I developed Who are your favorite designers ? the footprints of the style I have today. My mom let me put up my outfits, which she sure regrets (laughs). S.K: I would say Chloe, Boxing Kitten, Marni, My style has been an evolution, it went Acne, Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs. And through many different phases and maturing. of course, I still love my American Apparel, And that’s a good thing. H&M, Topshop.

Who were your fashion influences and style icons ?

S.K: For sure, my Mom. In the 70’s and 80’s.

I have a lot of great pictures of her at that period; she was just flawless and amazing. As I said, my style is made of different phases and they all combined. Grace Jones, Prince, Bob Marley, Chloe Sevigny, Erykah Badu, there are so many of them, in different ways. But now, I can say that I am not much inspi-

How do you judge your style’s evolution ? Does it match with your artistic & musical evolution ?

S.K: Absolutely, i think that...From about

13 until 17, i had this really intense period where I would wear as many patterns and prints and texture. I went to Japan by that time, so Tokyo and Harajuku girls, but also a trip to Jamaica, really influenced me, all

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Necklace - Vintage African Head wrap

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INTERVIEW at the same time. It was really strong , I was completely overwhelmed. It was a bit of a hot mess looking back on it (laughs), but that’s who I was. From 17 to until maybe 20 , I became a mom, I was in Idao, was a stay at home mother, and my style was very very basic, I just didn’t have the time for the looks. At the time, at the point where I was in my relationship, I sort of lost a sense of myself. I look back at those outfits and I’m like, who is this? Maybe I was trying to become who my husband was attracted to or I tried to be like a mom should look like. Then I got back to the music, got out of the relationship, and started to be drawned to this influence again. It was all about that 60’s Pop culture, paired it with a very comfy hat or a fun pattern. But I still hadn’t grasp the sense of mixing. Over the past 2 years, it (my style) had definitely followed my music, which is a mix of great 70’s and 80’s sounds. There are definitely some influences there. But I also started to listen to a lot of great afro beat music, and discovered amazing things that you can do for example with ankara, and mixing it up with meanstream pieces. There are so many great designers who just do this. I’ve been introduced to them, and I’m getting deeper and deeper into this.

Do you have a stylist or are you the type of Fashionista to keep on searching for new pieces ?

S.K: I’m REALLY REALLY not used to work

with a stylist. I do work with some stylists, but just for big events, and they just provide me a template, ans I’ll elaborate from there. But after our shoot, I think I would definitely work more with them.

6 Have you planned to attend New York’s Fashion Week ? S.K: YES, I am very EXCITED !

You’ve travelled a lot . Can you tell us , in your opinion, which city is Fashion’s capital ?

S.K: Oh, that’s a hard one! There are so

many great things about New York, Paris & London. And there are so many others, but I would say New York, Paris and London.

Solange as a Fashion designer...?

S.K: Maybe in the long run, I am definitely

not opposed to it. But I have to admit, I have more interest in opening an amazing store and carry many great lines , that I think, should be more accessible. But, I am definitely not oppsed to that.

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Necklace - Who needs Diamonds

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You, as well as Kelis or Janelle Monae, are some kind of free agents regarding the mainstream industry . Do you think this difference can become a burden ? If yes, in which way ? S.K: It is all a matter of what you want out of your career. And for me, it is truly my goal to make and create things that I’m passionate about. Living in a city like Los Angeles , you start to see so many people, who become victims, chasing fame and loosing sigh of true things. I want a confortable life, I want my son to go to a great school, I want to be able to travel - Travelling is the greatest pleasure to me -, I want to eat good. But there is a way to do that. Absolutely. And without having to do certain things that I have no taste for...

Me and my son, we know how to avoid the paparazzis, and I need to be in the situation where I can still make music, and have privacy to bring my son to the park. I am very akward with the situation (having all the paparazzi around), and you can control where you go to avoid them. I had this restaurant that I absolutly love, but it was took over by the paparazzis, so I had to let it go, and it’s a shame (laughts), but I had to.

Can we have some more information about your next album ?

S.K: It will be heavily influenced by pop

music from the late seventies and eighties and artists like Jimmy Jam, Terry Lewis, Prince or Chaka Khan. It was a heavy inspiration. I can’t confirm any date for the moment.

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IN SOLANGE KNOWLES’ S WARDROBE by M.C

When it comes to style, Solange tried to find her own way for quite some times before she became the It-Girl that she obviously is today. Here is a little retrospective of a style that got lighter , and became a true statement through the years.

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TO THE LEFT ZARA, TO THE RIGHT BALMAIN

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DID ZARA GO TOO FAR THIS TIME ? by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie

As seasons pass, we all noticed that Spanish ZARA is inspired a lot by different big designers for its different collections. That’s how and why the middle class fashionista doesn’t have to save for months or years to get that Miu Miu printed dress or that very chic Chloé cape. She just walks into a Zara store and buys the article she desires at a cheaper price, and therefore, a lower quality. Lately, Zara went a little too far. At the general surprise, they released T-Shirts printed with the faces of French bloggers, Betty and Pandora, knowing no agreement was made between the two parts. Once again, pro-Zara people called it inspiration but other people would call it plain plagiarism. Autumn being next door, it’s time to find out the lookbooks of all “High-street” fashion brands and the conclusion is that the chic spirit set by Phoebe Philo and Hannah McGibbon, respectively Celine

and Chloe’s artistic directors, will be found in all these stores: Mango, H&M, Topshop,... On the other hand, Zara decided to imitate the retro and comfortable style from Marc Jacobs and Prada. Nothing really surprising. It’s after seeing the men’s Autumn/Winter collection that our mouths dropped open. Just one look and you get it: Zara men decided to take their clothing codes from Balmain men. But when you put both lookbooks side to side, it’s no doubt that not only Zara took some ideas from Balmain this season, but it also copied the whole collection. This goes from the clothes cuts to the shoes and even the styling and models poses... We surely are used to this with Zara but at some point, we wonder where does inspiration start to transform into imitation? It might be a good business deal (after all, which man would say no to a full Balmain style without having to suf- ►►►

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fer the economic side of it?), but artistithis large debate, between mass markecally speaking, the brand is losing its cre- ting law and originality, it’s hard to know dibility. But the real question is: Does Zara which one is winning over. still claim to be a real creative brand? In

TO THE LEFT ZARA, TO THE RIGHT BALMAIN

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TO THE LEFT ZARA, TO THE RIGHT BALMAIN

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WE TESTED STUDIO BEYOGA by Sam

Summer is over! We’re on for another period of boring routine and stress (for some it has already started). For you, our beauty editor tested the BEYOGA centre.

Just like every young working person, I go to work during the week and weekend nights out just end up tiring me instead of relaxing me. That’s why I jumped on the occasion when I was asked to try Yoga. Being completely new to it and having heard how it was, my first reaction was “Am I flexible enough?” and “Maybe kick-boxing is better to unwind”. Whatever the case might be, I have never practiced yoga before and I have been interested in it for a while now. I decided to test it. With my appointment taken, I go in Paris 14th district to meet Marie and Alex at the Beyoga Centre.

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12:15pm - I had my appointment at 12:30pm but being fifteen minutes early, Greg and Marie, centre’s creator, tell me that I don’t need to be flexible for this. I’m facing people that are really passionate about it. I quickly understand that there’s not only “one yoga”, that there are many and today I’m going to learn the Lyengar. It’s a kind of yoga that emphasizes on strength and endurance development, correct body alignment, flexibility and relaxation. The class lasts 1h30min. The time required for this type of postures. 12:40pm - First posture, I play the lady who’s on every yoga picture you’ve seen, except the fact that I don’t look so serene. I’m scared to do it wrong, Greg tells me it’s okay and puts my arms and legs in the right positions when I’m wrong. Everything is going okay. “Easy” I would say. Until we get to that posture that makes me think that I may not be well-formed. My arm is not as flexible as Greg’s. What’s going on? Apparently, it doesn’t chock him so let’s keep on. 1:10pm - I’m starting to feel the difficulty in holding a posture for 1 minute that challenges my body just by simple, yet precise, positions of my members. I’m starting to sweat even though I didn’t move from my mattress! During moments of weakness, I take a look at Greg’s slim and sculpted legs and I get stronger. I can’t give up, I have to remain in my position. I want the same legs.

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HOTSPOT 1:45pm - Greg tells us to take some pillows because it’s time for exercises lying on the floor. I love it. 2:00pm - Lights go down and I remain on back with my on the wall. This time it’s all about relaxing. The atmosphere is calm and the softness in my muscles makes me want to go to sleep. 2:10pm - The class is over. I still don’t have Greg’s legs but I sweated. I feel weird, I feel light and calm. A feeling that I’ve been longing for a long time...I exit the centre feeling appeased and with the sun touching my face, I would almost believe I’m in a Beyonce video. I feel completely relaxed...One thing is sure, I’m going to renew this experience.

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HOTSPOT Lyengar class is one among many classes that is offered by Beyoga centre. You’ll be offered a warm welcome and you’ll be surprised by the knowledge and the staff’s little attentions for you. Beyoga studio offers a large range of yoga styles from tonic and challenging classes, dynamic classes and more relaxing ones. There are also specific classes for children with yogaminiparis, before and after birth yoga as well as traditional pilates. The centre also offers 1hour classes to fit your lunch break.

Find out everything about Beyoga centre’s “going back to school/work discovery offers” and visit their website www.beyoga.fr for more information on classes, hours and prices. Centre BEYOGA impasse 17 rue campagne première 75014 PARIS (+33) 01 40 47 67 63

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THE ESCAPE Photographer : Antoine de Laroche http://antoinedelaroche.com/ Model : Jacqueline Silva@Major Paris Styling and clothes: Hugues Bermond Hair & Mu : FĂ&#x2C6;lix Assistant : Eri

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Access’ LITTLE TREASURE by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie

Jewels selection that will add a glamour touch for your going back to school/work time:

1. ACCESSORIZE-15€ 2. ACCESSORIZE-34€ 3. APC-70€ 4. ISABEL MARANT, 68€ 5. MIU MIU-125€ 6. MONET-29€ 7. STELLA MCCARTNEY-195€ 8. SWAROVSKI-65€ 9. TALULLAH TU-17€ 10. TALULLAH TU-18€

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1. 5.

2. 9

6. 3.

10 7

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UTY

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THE HAIR EXTENSIONS 101 by SAM

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American advances in natural hair and extensions are now available on the internet. In 48 hours, you can get hair that has nothing to envy to Tyra Banks`s delivered at your house. It’s important then to understand all the kind of products that are sold on the web and in stores. Fashizblack gives you some explanations and will put forward the “best sellers” wigs in USA.

WHAT ARE HUMAN HAIR AND REMY HAIR , AND WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE? In stores and on the internet, you hear a lot about human hair and remy hair. It’s not the same thing. Even though the goal is to have an extension with real hair, the difference resides in applying the hair and their different treatments. Nowadays, human hair mainly comes from India, bresilian hair not being on the market anymore. Hair can also come from China, it’s thicker and straighter. Chinese hair goes through a heavy treatment, it is made softer, its diameter is reduced and a silicone product is applied to make it brighter and to protect it. Indian hair is treated to so it can be coloured. It cost a little more than Chinese hair because it’s easier to handle while doing haircuts. What defines human hair is that it’s neither sorted out nor put back in the same direction, and hair from one lock can have different origins. It’s pretty good quality but its life duration is not as good.

Remy” in “remy hair” comes from French “remettre/remis” (to put back) referring to the old French wig-makers technique back in the 17th century which was putting back all the hair in the same direction. This technique keeps hair from tangling up since all the hair tips are pointing in the same direction. “Remy hair” comes from India and, while collected, the hair direction has to be respected until the commercialisation. Each lock sold holds hair from the same donator. Apart from the cleaning, there is no other heavy or aggressive treatment. It is proven that locks from “remy hair” can be re-used up to 3 times. For example, it can be used for 3 months and, after the removal, can be used 1 to 2 times again. “Remy hair” is then considered as good quality hair... “Remy hair” is more expensive and lasts longer, but if you can’t afford it or if you want a haircut just for an occasion, human hair can be good too when it’s new.

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BEAUTY THE HOLLYWOOD SECRETS : THE LACE WIGS.

It is no secret to anybody; American stars are crazy about real hair extensions. But how does it go from head to head with such a natural result? Their secret is hidden in insensible wigs called «Lace Wigs»! Still not accessible a little while ago, «Lace Wigs» are taking the web over and you can find it in every style and every price. Beyoncé, Mary J. Blige, Ciara, Tyra Banks… They are all going crazy about it and made these new «insensible wigs» a success, beating over extensions. The «Lace Front» is particular, for not giving the head this helmet kind of effect, and above all, it gives a very natural aspect thanks to a tulle that let the skull color appears. Hair are set on the tulle to give the impression of a hair growth. Lace wigs are stuck to the skin thanks to a special glue that totally disappears and blends with the skin once it is dry. Baby hair are the little bonus, they are stuck by hand all over the Lace Wig and fall on the forehead to hide the ends of the net, stuck on the root of the hair : the result is pretty amazing.

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The «Lace Front» is a best-seller in the USA and thanks to the Internet, this product is now affordable for everybody.

THERE ARE DIFFERENT TYPES OF LACE WIGS «Lace Front Wigs» ou «Front Lace Wigs», which are just composed of tulle in front of the wig, and the rest of it is made with an ordinary wig net or other materials, like synthetic skin. Nonetheless, this kind of wig does not allow you to do high or semi ponytails . «Full lace wigs», are made of tulle that completely covers the head, and you can do high or semi ponytails.

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BEAUTY Lastly, «Frontal Laces» are not full wigs; they which is perfect for an last-minute party. are just partial and are maint to be stuck on the forehead. Tulles are from Switzerland, so they are thiner and the quality is better than the French ones, and wigs are all made of human hair. ■ In the USA, the top websites are www.hairsisters.com and www.clairhair.com. But they do not deliver to France. Be relieved, the ones avalaible on the French site Diouda are the American best-sellers.

The quality of your Lace will depend on its inches² hair density, of its percentage of bleached knots (knots that set the hair under the tulle are bleached to give a more natural look), of the tulle origin (France or Switzerland). We recommend that you pick the Swiss one, thiner and therefore, more adapted to every kind of shade. Finally, measure your skull before any order to determine the size of the Cap (the tulle all over the head). If you go for it, we can tell you that Lace Wigs do not damage hair at all and have until 2 years of lifetime when you handle them carefully. In France, we tested www.diouda.fr. When it comes to Lace Wigs, the choice is not really wide but the delivery was made in 24h neat;

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the

patient beauty Stephanie Matthews Photography, www.stephaniematthewsphotography.dphoto.com MUA: Apryl Cook-Richmond Hair: Artra Edwards Model: Erin Leeper-Johnson

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4 MAKE UP BRANDS MADE IN USA by Love Voundi

The African fashion scene is really dynamic in the US, but dedicated ethnic make-up brands aren’t outdone! Discover or rediscover easily affordable classics we selected!

Extra EXTRA Eye Balm

Bobbi Brown is a professional make-up artist who launched her cosmetics line with the help of a chemist in 1991. They started selling only lipsticks, under the brand «Bobbi Brown essentials». That was a complete success and the brand was taken over by Estée Lauder in 1995. The brand offers a wide range of products, adapted to a large consumer panel thanks to their large selection of shades and their formulas that provide customized make up adapted to the needs of every skin type. The only problem is that, unfortunately, not everyone can afford it.

under-eyes concealer

Shimmer brick compact bronzer

Extra teinted face balm SPF 25 FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

BEAUTY

Oil-free foundation, perfect creme to powder

Fashion fair made a conspicuous comeback after a long period in the doldrums. The brand gave itself a facelift and now targets a young audience. Their skin care products’ packagings are silver colored and in a refined style. Prices are affordable but the products often lack of creativity... Except for lipsticks that have beautiful shades.

Gloss cranberry kiss Orange Olé Lipstick Refining face and body scrub

Moisturizing lip balm

Palmer’s brand was founded 160 years ago in Pennsylvania. It’s one ot the first skin care brands, specializing in cocoa butter based products, made from genuine cocoa beans and vitamin E. Really affordable, you should avoid it if you’re looking for an all-natural formula. Indeed, some products aren’t chemical free... After pregnancy toning lotion

Nourishing body milk

Keri Hilson make up look: Here are some hints to get Keri Hilson’s make up to look fierce this September!

Anti stretch mark massage cream FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

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BEAUTY

The black Colossal Volumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Express Mascara Wonder Finish foundation

Chemist T.L. Williams created the first mascara, mixing Vaseline and coal dust. He wanted to help his sister Maybel to seduce the man she loved. And it worked! It was the beginning of the business success story of Gemey-Maybelline who conquered the planet with its must-haves. The brand is adressed to a young female audience, cultivates a dynamic image based on modernity and ethnic diversity. We need to highlight that this brand develops ethnically diverse ad campaigns and was one of the first to take interest in selling make-up to people of color. Innovative and affordable, it has only one tiny weak spot: lipsticks and eye-shadow packagings are a bit too flashy...

Eye Studio Eyeshadow

Superstay Silky Foundation Very Black Great Lash Mascara

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Ti ps

KERI HILSON MAKE UP LOOK by Love Voundi

Here are some hints to get Keri Hilson's make up to look fierce this September!

1. Urban Decay light bronze eyeshadow 2. Clarins dark brown eyebrow pencil 3. Dior diorific sipping cognac lipstick 4. Black Up Fondation 5. Urban decay sting hot eyeshadow 6. Urban Decay dark green eye pencil 7. Guerlain terracota bronzing powder

5. 1. 4. 6.

3. 7. FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE September 2010

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TURE

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SMOD - ÇA CHANTE The new African scene arrives in France with their “rap’n’folk” music style from Mali. Amadou & Mariam’s son’s group takes over and brings his own style in the business. “Ca Chante” is their 3rd album and is produced by the great Manu Chao. Their two previous albums ( “Dunia Kuntala” and “Ta i Tola”) didn’t receive a lot of media coverage, despite the collaboration with King Massassi, rap’s precursor in Bamako, and Amadou & Mariam. For this new try, guitar is clearly the skeleton of the album. Their recipe? A guitar and three voices that are beautifully in tune, with perfect rap verses. No artifice destroys the authenticity of their work or if there are, they’re very few. It’s an audacious choice which is important to notice because if we go from one song to another really quickly, we can be troubled by their resemblance but that’s just because, you have to focus on what’s important to them : the lyrics.

Involved but not revolutionary, they draw a picture of politics in Africa and initiate an original angle on the youth topic. The alchemy is present from the beginning to the end. The only problem: the single song with a featuring “J’ai peur du micro”, with female rapper Keny Arkana from Marseille, which is not a bad song (actually it’s an excellent song), could be dispensable and does not match the album at all. The song looks like a floating cloud in the album which makes it lose its homogeneity and cohesiveness. So, even if Manu Chao’s touch is more than perceptible and could disturb some, SMOD gives an album full of colours with sunny sounds. Paradox? Maybe, but the fusion between rap and traditional Malian music has its effect. It’s a must discover. ■ Strong moments of the album : Les dirigeant africains, Ambola, Fenkoro,...

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MUSIC

THE FOREIGN EXCHANGE - AUTHENTICITY As if someone pulled it out of a hat, Hip Hop/ Soul band The Foreign Exchange’s third album will hit stores on October 12th .Two years only after «Leave It All Behind» ; Phonte ( rapper-singer ) and Nicolay ( the producer ) teamed up once again, for our greatest pleasure. A single has been available online for weeks now : «Maybe She’ll Dream Of Me» , which sounds as Soulful as the previous LP and shall we say..quite far from their first try, the classic and trurthfully Hip Hop « Connected « ( 2004 ) . From this new album, you can expect surprises such as American soul music rising star Jesse Boykins III , as well as some relatives in the names of Darien Brockington and Yahzarah . If this album ends up being as good as its predecessor, it might be the best LP to listen to by the end of this year. ■

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MUSIC BILAL AIR TIGHT’S REVENGE

TREY SONGZ PASSION, PAIN & PLEASURE

First album in almost 9 years for the excellent Bilal Oliver. In fact, “Love for Sale” released in 2006 has been rapidly downloadable on the internet and Universal Records, his disc label, said it was impossible to sale. It proves the singer, who enjoys a good notoriety among connoisseurs, holds a certain interest in the audience. He’ll come back then with his new album “Air Tight’s Revenge” out on September 14th but which can already be listened to on the web since a few weeks now. (Only previews of the songs)...A fantastic come-back.. ■

The ladies’ favourite with his angel face and his swinging choruses will give us his album “Passion, Pain & Pleasure” one year only after “Ready” , which was his first album to go gold. This time, he wants to take advantage of his rising notoriety and surrounds himself with almost the same production team. Let’s point out collaborations by Mario Winans as the producer of his second single “Can’t Be Friends” and rapper Nicki Minaj on “Bottoms up”. Although, we regret the fact that he comes back as a Chris Brown’s successor since he’s not out there anymore when, at the time of his first album, Trey seemed more mature than he is now...What about the album? Well, it’s being released on September 14th. ■

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CULTURAL SCHEDULE CAMEROON COUTURE EXHIBITS IN LONDON

MORE AND MORE VINTAGE

One more time, London will be hosting the “crème de la crème” of Cameroon designers for a unique fashion show where creativity and African inspiration will be at their highest level. More information camercouture@yahoo. com

MUST SEE MOVIE ! BENDA BILILI is a documentary directed by Renaud Barret and Florent de la Tullaye on the Congolese orchestra of the same name. Ricky has a dream: to make of Staff Benda Bilili the best orchestra in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Together, they’re going to face Kinshasa’s dangers and find in music the strength to keep on hoping. Let’s point out that the movie opened the Director’s Fortnight during Cannes 2010. In theatres September 8th. For more information www.bendabilili-lefilm.com

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Book already your September 25th and 26th days for the 6th edition of Salon du vintage taking place at Blancs Manteaux. More information : www.salonduvintage.com

AGENDA

BETTY, THE LIAR Played by actress Mata Gabin, world’s citizen as she calls herself (her mother was liberian and guinean, and she was adopted by her martinican aunt and her Corsican husband, EN), written and set by Jean-Christophe Siriac, “Betty, un one woman show de mytho” is a show retracing young Betty’s life filled of course with…lies. From tragedy to comedy, burlesque to drama, it’s a play that will make you go from tears to laughter in the blink of an eye. Emotions guaranteed. At Splendid, 48 rue du Faubourg Saint Martin 75010, on October 18th, 2010. More information www.lesplendid.com

LET’S GO TO GUINEA For its third edition, the African Festival “Les Voies du Monde” honors Guinea by presenting Guinean ballets. Cradle of Mandingo traditional culture, Guinea remains the first destination for all inspirations and creations for the best dancers and percussionists in the world. That festival is an invitation to the journey, multiples free animations open to everybody in a reconstitution of an African village during the day, and during the night the magic of guinean ballets. At Theatre de Verdure, 1 Promenade des Anglais, 06000 Nice, September 25th 2010. More information www.lesvoiesdumonde.com/festival2010/

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AGENDA

IN THE EYE OF SHAW Mythical fashion photographer to whom we owe Marilyn Monroe’s picture standing on a metro entrance with her dress flying in the air, gets his entire work in a book, commented by Lorie Karnath who was close to the departed photographer. An intimate intrusion in the new-Yorker’s work based on vivacity and spontaneity. Sam Shaw, A Personal Point of View, in Hatje Cantz Editions.

KARL’S VISIONS We all know Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel’s artistic director since 1983, but it’s on Karl the photographer that the Maison Europeenne de la Photographie (European House of Photography, EN) is focusing on this September. In fact, the “frenchiest” german designer enjoys shooting with his camera as much as designing. He lends a lot of his creations in the world of image to the Maison Europeenne de la Photographie, for an exhibition that will be mixing fashion pictures, portraits, places, architecture photos and more personal shots. From September 8th to October 30th at Maison Europeenne de la Photographie. More information www.mep-fr.org

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KEITH SWEAT AND JOE AT ZENITH After their collaboration on “Test Drive”, Keith Sweat and Joe will be performing at the Zenith of Paris, on October 17th. Both emblematic figures of american R’n’B, they will perform their biggest classics. More surprises are, of course, planned. More information livenation.fr

www.

AGENDA

ARTISTIC DISCO-BALL For month duration from September 9th, you will find Cameroon native Barthelemy Toguo’s pieces. Multi-talented artist, he’ll exhibit paintings, drawings, montages, collages and photographs. An occasion to discover or to re-discover the unique universe of such a particular man. At Galerie Lelong, 13, rue du Teheran 75008, Paris, from September 9th to October 9th, 2010. More information www.galerie-lelong.com www.barthelemytoguo.com

CRAZY IN LOVE WITH YVES Another breath-taking and deep tribute to departed designer Yves Saint Laurent: this time, it’s via the artist Pierre Thoretton that his lifelong partner, Pierre Berge, comes back on their 50 years of living together with their ups and downs, and also the day they met at Christian Dior’s funeral and their magical holidays in Majorelle’s villa in Marrakech. Yves Saint Laurent-Pierre Berge, un amour fou by Pierre Thoretton in theaters September 22th, 2010.

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ADDRESS BOOK FASHION 3 SUISSES : 08 92 69 15 00 A.P.C : 01 42 78 18 02 ACCESSORIZE : 01 42 24 84 15 AMERICAN APPAREL : www.americanapparel.net ANDRÉ : 01 53 26 28 28 ASOS : www.asos.com CACHE-CACHE : www.cache-cache.fr COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS : 01 42 60 10 75 COSMO : 04 42 84 60 82 DOROTHY PERKINS : www.dorothyperkins.com H&M : 01 53 20 71 00 ISABEL MARANT : 01 43 26 04 12 LYLE AND SCOTT : http://www.lyleandscott.com/ MANGO : 08 11 60 00 09 MARC JACOBS : 01 55 35 02 60 MONET AUX GALERIES LAFAYETTES : 01 42 82 34 56 MISS SELFRIDGE : www.missselfridge.com MIU MIU : 01 58 62 53 20 NEW LOOK : www.newlook.co.uk PARE GABIA : www.paregabia.com PIMKIE : 08 00 37 29 25 SAN MARINA : 04 42 84 60 98 STELLA MCCARTNEY : 01 47 03 03 80 SWAROVSKI : www.swarovski.com TALULLAH TU : www.talullahtu.co.uk TOPSHOP : www.topshop.com ZARA : 01 42 68 31 10

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BEAUTY AMETIS : www.ametiscosmetics.net AZZAROLAB : www.azzaroparis.com BIOTHERM : www.biotherm.fr BLACK’UP : 01 42 21 36 32 BOBBI BROWN : www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com CARTIER : 01 42 18 43 83 CHANEL : 08 00 25 50 05 CHLOÉ : 01 44 94 33 00 CLARINS : 01 45 44 06 19 CLARINS MEN : www.clarinsmen.com CLINIQUE : www.fr.clinique.com DARPHIN : www.darphin-france.com DIOR : 01 40 73 55 23 GIVENCHY : 08 25 82 55 90 KENZO : www.kenzoki.com KIEHL’S : www.kiehls.com LANCÔME : www.lancome.fr MARC JACOBS : 01 55 35 02 60 MOLTON BROWN : www.moltonbrown.co.uk PACO RABANNE : www.pacorabanne.com PRADA : 01 53 23 99 40 SEPHORA : www.sephora.fr SHU UEMERA : 01 49 64 82 29 SISLEY : www.sisley-cosmetics.com SOFTSHEEN XARSON : www.softsheen-carson.com VIKTOR&ROLF : www.viktor-rolf.com ZVONKO : www.zvonkoparis.com

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