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Sustainable labels also for the fashion sector

progetti sempre nuovi. L’azienda è specializzata in etichette, smart label, cartellini, accessori, imballaggi, stampe e lavorazioni varie per abbigliamento, calzature e pelletteria per i migliori marchi della moda del lusso (stampe particolari, digitali, 3D, laser, termosaldature e lavorazioni varie su tessuti, pellami e sintetici), dando vita a prodotti unici, selezionando tecniche di lavorazione e materie prime innovative. Doriana spiega: “siamo specialisti della personalizzazione e ci rivolgiamo alle aziende proprietarie di marchi del settore moda ma anche a quelle del settore arredo, vinicolo e design. Siamo in grado di stampare su qualsiasi materiale usando le più recenti tecniche di stampa, siamo comunque un’azienda artigianale, siamo coloro che realizzano le idee dei designer”. Per sottolineare il forte impatto della moda sull’ambiente e il problema dello sfruttamento delle lavoratrici del settore moda, Doriana ha ricordato il crollo del Rana Plaza del 2013, quando un edificio commerciale di otto piani (con varie fabbriche di abbigliamento) crollò a Savar, un sub-distretto nella Grande Area di Dacca, capitale del Bangladesh. Le vittime furono 1.129. È fondamentale operare anche in termini di tracciabilità della filiera produttiva per rendere trasparenti i processi produttivi ed i percorsi di sostenibilità nel fashion: esempio di questa filosofia è la collezione Eco Farm, per la

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ENGLISH Version Sustainable labels also for the fashion sector

EASYFAIRS ITALIA, THE COMPANY THAT ORGANIZES PACKAGING PREMIÈRE DEDICATED ONE OF ITS INTERESTING WEBINARS TO THE ROLE OF SUSTAINABLE LABELS: IN THE FIRST PART THEY TALKED ABOUT APPLICATIONS IN THE WINE SECTOR (CONVERTER-FLESSIBILI-CARTA-CARTONE MARCH-APRIL 2021), IN THE SECOND, IN THE FASHION SECTOR

It is undeniable that the pandemic has highlighted, and the phenomenon is continuing, the direct and reciprocal link between health, well-being and environment, in fact there is more and more talk of sustainability in all areas. Fashion cannot be exempt from this trend, most likely fashion will also take over the concept of circularity, with clothes designed to last longer and with a view to reintroducing used items into the production process. Recall that the clothing sector affects a lot household budgets, in fact, after food it is the second item of expenditure. If we also consider that 45 million tons of clothes end up in landfills every year, it is necessary to let become value all this enormous amount of fabric, ink, buttons and zippers. Cristiano Berto Design Office, designer who has developed creative projects for clothing, said that fashion lags behind the food sector, where packaging is now an integral part of the history of a product. Even the fashion product must be told with the packaging, with a shopping bag and with the label. For a truly sustainable fashion the whole supply chain must be sustainable, starting from the materials, the fabric and the way of producing an item of clothing, collaborating all together, pursuing sustainability in all senses, for example forgetting the frenzy typical of brands before presenting a collection, managing to take the right time, in a word, working calmly, to arrive at a sort of slow fashion.

DIENPI LABELS: SUSTAINABILITY IN FASHION ACCESSORIES Doriana Marini, CEO and co-founder of Dienpi, presented her company, which is based in San Benedetto del Tronto (AP). Dienpi, born in 2011, targets the national and international fashion market, designs and produces accessories for

quale tessuti e pellami di scarto vengono riutilizzati per produrre pregiate carte hand-made, ideali per cartellini e packaging; etichette con filati in poliestere riciclato e cuoio rigenerato; o la collezione e/ art-h, carte ecologiche fatte con scarti agro-industriali per etichette davvero speciali. Ha concluso gli interventi Giovanna Baglio, Sustainability Manager di Ostinelli Seta, di Casnate con Bernate (CO), che produce e lavora tessuti in seta. L’attenzione alle nuove esigenze del mercato di riferimento ha portato l’azienda ormai da molti anni ad impegnarsi in un’attività costante di monitoraggio e controllo dei propri prodotti, al fine di garantirne il rispetto dei requisiti di compliance, sia da un punto di vista qualitativo/prestazionale che chimico. Ostinelli Seta ha adottato una Politica per la Sostenibilità volta all’adozione di pratiche che portino ad una riduzione dell’impatto ambientale della propria produzione comprese le azioni di tipo sociale ed etico. Un bell’esempio del suo modo di lavorare è il progetto Uniti dal Gusto, scaturito dai mesi difficili del 2020 quando non potendo lavorare in azienda i suoi collaboratori hanno iniziato a scambiarsi mail con ricette, poesie, fotografie. Tutte sono stati raccolti in un volumetto stampato su una carta unica, realizzata utilizzando ovviamente i tessuti di seta stampati non più utilizzabili, che sono stati lavorati da Dienpi, ridando così valore alla seta, creando una carta seta molto particolare, per raccogliere in un involucro prezioso la creatività di tutti i dipendenti. 

clothing, prints and decorations for leather goods and footwear. The company starts with the graphic design, then moves on to the creation of prototypes/samples and delivery. Only certified raw materials are used and the collections often involve the use of ecological materials (recycled paper, ecological leather, water-based inks, etc.). Dienpi stands out for its continuous search for eco-friendly raw materials and production processes and for the recovery of production waste that comes to life in ever new projects. The company specializes in labels, smart labels, tags, accessories, packaging, prints and various processes for clothing, footwear and leather goods for the best luxury fashion brands (special, digital, 3D, laser prints; heat-sealing and various processes on fabrics, leathers and synthetics), giving life to unique products, selecting innovative processing techniques and raw materials. Doriana explains: “we are specialists in customization and we address companies that own brands in the fashion sector but also those in the furniture, wine and design sectors. We are able to print on any material using the most recent printing techniques, we are still an artisan company, we are the ones who realize the ideas of designers”. To underline the strong impact of fashion on the environment and the problem of exploitation of women workers in the fashion sector, Doriana recalled the collapse of the Rana Plaza in 2013, when an eight floors commercial building (with several garment factories) collapsed in Savar, a sub-district in the Greater Dhaka Area, capital of Bangladesh, killing 1,129 people. It is also essential to operate in terms of traceability of the production chain to make transparent production processes and sustainability paths in fashion: an example of this philosophy is the Eco Farm collection, for which waste fabrics and leathers are reused to produce fine hand-made papers, ideal for tags and packaging; labels with recycled polyester yarns and regenerated leather; or the e/art-h collection, ecological papers made with agro-industrial waste for truly special labels. Giovanna Baglio, Sustainability Manager of Ostinelli Seta, of Casnate con Bernate (CO), which produces and processes silk fabrics, concluded the speeches. The attention to the new needs of the reference market has led the company for many years to engage in constant control of its products, to ensure respect of compliance requirements, both from a point of qualitative/performance and chemical point of view. Ostinelli Seta has adopted a Sustainability Policy aimed at adopting practices that lead to a reduction of environmental impact of its production, including social and ethical actions. A good example of its way of working is the Uniti dal Gusto project, which arose from the difficult months of 2020 when, unable to work in the company, its collaborators began to exchange e-mails with recipes, poems and photographs. All were collected in a small volume printed on a unique paper, obviously made using the printed silk fabrics that are no longer usable, which were worked by Dienpi, thus giving value to the silk, creating a very particular silk paper, to collect in a precious wrapper the creativity of all employees.