LET’S GET
contents
Fall 2017 8
Angles and Aesthetics: Architecture at Miami
10
Madness within Beauty
14
Let's Get Weird
16
Uniquely Chic
22
Maintenance for the Modern Male
26
Just Be a Queen: Defining Drag Culture in Oxford, Ohio
28
UP in Smoke
34
I Do...I Don't: Miami Mergers Then and Now
36
Get Accustomed
42
Moody in Monochrome
48
The American Dreamers
52
Limitless Beauty: Age in Modern Culture
56
Arthur
58
Athleisure
66
Divine Inspiration
22
42
14
36
3 | Fall 2017
staff list Editor-in-Chief Madelaine Wood
Creative Director Libby Swofford
Publisher
Lily Manchester
Director of Operations Karolina Ulasevich
Fashion Director Olivia Mancy
Photo Editors Junho Moon Livvy List
Event Planners Rachel Price Coley Frommeyer
Marketing Directors Britt Czodli Claire Markley
Senior Blog Editor Tori Levy
Blog Editor Vivian Drury
Web Editor Allie Herriott
Copy Editors Kev O’Hara Haley Jena
Social Media Manager Brooke Figler
Social Media Designer Becca Nissen
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writers
Erin Adelman Adrienne Bechtel Maddie Clegg Bella Douglas Nina Franco Madysen George Evie Howard Lauren Klocinski Molly Nicholas Emma Nolan Julia Plant Adler Smith Kaylee Spahr Sophie Thompson bloggers
Tyler Aberle Julia Asphar Hannah Blaze Lizzie Carter Gabriella Dini Bella Douglas Allie Eames Madelyn Hopkins Abby Malone Abigail Padgett Meg Scott Kaylee Spahr Megan Stapleton Hannah Star Claire Vaughn layout designers
Caroline Adams Corinne Brown Alissa Cook Stephanie Hamilton Morgan Lawrence Adzaan Muqtadir Becca Nissen Hanna Sylla Anneliese Zak
print photographers
Douglas Chan Kendall Erickson Allison Jenkins Bel Meals Kira Salsman Christina Vitellas Lauren Walker Katie Wickman
blog/street style photographers
Grace Dafler Shuo Han Morgan Minnock Caroline Plonski Daniel Romo Avery Salomon Maggie Smerdel Sophie Thompson videographers
Maddie Brown Emily Brustoski Astrid Cabello Ashley Hetherington Daniel Romo Christina Vitellas Katie Wickman Julia Wilson print stylists
Sofia Bazianos Amelia Boo Katrina Kariotis Ben Krautheim Kate Kronstein Caitlyn Maskalunas Maggie Miller Olivia Petas Lilly Schneider Tatum Suter Gigi Zhu makeup
Olivia Brown Erin Haymaker Hannah Silverman Lily Sloan
blog stylists
Natalie Gruenwald Hailey Lowe Jaclyn Schutjer Meg Scott Samantha Shore Lily Sloan event planning
Brooke Bantle Bridget Bonanni Kendall Chabut Cora Harter Amy Holbrook Alex Jimenez Lauren Marchese Jenna Mrocko Jessica Pembroke Aleah Sexton marketing
Alexandra Bogut Madison Clement Casey Doran Morgan Henry Jillian Jensen Alex Jimenez Ellie Krug Annie Lougheed Taylor McManus Maggie Miller Pooja Ramchadani Brett Schaaf Sarah Semon Adriana Wilcoxon faculty advisor
Annie-Laurie Blair finance advisor
Fred Reeder Jr.
| 2008 Lauren Kelly Kelly Phelan founders
printer
RR Donnelley
letter from the editor
We live in a time when the outlandish doesn’t hold the same shock value it used to. To garner a reaction, creativity and ingenuity must be held in a higher regard than ever before. Famed fashion houses like Dolce and Gabbana, Gucci and Saint Laurent are pushing the creative envelope in fresh and exciting ways. People with unique stories to tell are finding their voice and learning that confidence doesn’t have to be so hard to come by. That’s why we crowned Unconventional as this issue’s theme. Lily Manchester (UP’s wonderful publisher) and I wanted to express how crucial it is that we as a generation continue to do things our own way. Pursue your passions regardless of presuppositions. It’s okay if your mind doesn’t think like it’s supposed to. In fact, variances should be celebrated. In this issue, we spin convention on its head. We revamped UP’s overall structure in order to mature our brand and bring you content that feels authentically curated with the Miami community in mind. Learn more about Miami’s impressive architecture department on page six in a feature that beautifully showcases the inherent ties between style and structure. Do you revel in traditional timelines when it comes to wedded bliss? Or are you open to a more modern approach? Flip to page 34 and decide for yourself after reading Co-Copy Editor Kev O’Hara’s piece about commitment in the contemporary world. Speaking of contemporary thinking, check out Co-Copy Editor Haley Jena’s article on page 52 highlighting the new wave of older models taking the fashion and beauty world by storm. Sixty has never looked so chic. There’s nothing wrong with doing things conventionally, but it’s a lot more fun when you don’t. Take a glance at the work of Fashion Director Olivia
Mancy and Co-Photo Editor Livvy List in UP in Smoke on page 28. It’ll provide you with inspiration in case you ever find yourself with a pet snake at a hookah lounge. See? I told you it would be fun. To UP’s incredibly talented staff: you have wildly exceeded my expectations and continue to inspire me with your innovation and passion for the UP brand. I am beyond excited to see where the rest of this year takes us as a magazine and how we all continue to grow as creative individuals. To last year’s editorial team: thank you. I will be eternally grateful for the guidance, support and love you’ve given me and our new executive team as we attempt to carry on your legacy and mold our own. To UP’s devoted readers: I strive to bring you content that will challenge your minds, feed your souls and provide a sweet escape from the hum of everyday life. I want UP to be a pleasure for you to indulge in, and not necessarily a guilty one. As you read this Unconventional issue, keep in mind the ways in which you can push your own boundaries. In a world where individuality is finally commanding the attention it deserves, don’t be afraid to be unapologetically you in your decisions and delivery. Hope you enjoy! Much UP love,
Madelaine Wood Editor-in-Chief
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un·con· ven·tion·al
\ ,ən-kən-'vench-nəl (adjective) not bound by or in accordance with convention; being out of the ordinary; not based on what is generally done or believed. 6 | Fall 2017
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T
here is a running joke in architectural communities that architects wear only black.
Type “famous architects” into Google Images and you will find world-renowned architects like Zaha Hadid and Tadao Ando decked out in black attire. Cordula Rau, a well-known German architect, even wrote a book titled “Why Do Architects Wear Black?” Perhaps you’ve even come across the cat meme on Twitter that says, “Architects wear black ALWAYS.” Yet, why do architects stick to this dark hue? Quinn Kelsey and Molly Meyer, two senior architecture majors at Miami University, sat down with me to answer that very question. Kelsey has a minor in interior design and Meyer minors in urban planning. “Yes, it is a major joke that everyone wears black,” Kelsey said, “but I think it kind of goes off the idea that while some people use fashion and style to show who they are, we have the outlet of designing, so we keep our clothing muted to show off our designs more.” As an architecture major, expressing yourself through your designs is of the utmost importance, because you must learn how to sell yourself to employers by way of clear design plans. Architecture students at Miami project themselves through personal design portfolios. Kelsey and Meyer explain that they are the hardest project because you have to show employers exactly who you are in just a multitude of your best designs. Luckily, Miami architecture students have a bit of time to figure out their own personal style before jumping right into portfolio design. Freshman year is the time when about 70 interior designers and architecture students work in the same studio without computers and develop their hand drawings, which is meant to discourage technological limitations. Then, architects and interior designers split to develop their own craft, only to come back together second semester of sophomore year. The architecture and interior design majors at Miami are pretty much laid out for students. There are specific class requirements for each semester in addition to room for two or three general education classes.
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angles aesthetics architecture at Miami written by Nina Franco
It isn’t until an architecture student’s third and fourth years that they begin to pick a studio to work in based on their own personal design interests. Miami’s Studio options include Interior Design, Sustainability and Landscape, but students are also able to choose one of the many studios found abroad. This past summer, Meyer took Miami’s Design and Build Studio program in Ghana, and Quinn took a Passive House Principles and Sustainability Studio program in Germany and Malta. Not only were these good resume builders, but “the overall kind of cultural experience and the psychology of design is fascinating, so the fact that you are extending your inner-self is awesome,” Meyer said. While expressing individuality through fashion isn’t always what architects are thinking about, Meyer and Kelsey said that they often notice they do it unintentionally. Kelsey’s portfolio is simple. It is not a huge graphic display or crazy colorful. She keeps it simple, with clean-cut, minimalistic and free handed sketches. Similarly, the outfits she tends to gravitate towards are the same when it comes to her style. “I don’t wear a ton of colors or chunky things. I am more of a ‘clean-cut-lines’ kind of person and that is kind of the same when I design, I sort of play with angles rather than a lot of stuff going on,” she said. Meyer, on the other hand, wants her portfolio to have a touched-by-the-hand feel. Therefore, when she creates computer drawings, she puts them into Photoshop to make them feel more hand-drawn. Meyer believes this is why she’s obsessed with texture in her day-to-day wear. For instance, when she goes shopping for clothes, she finds herself constantly asking, “What is the quality of this?”
styled by Amelia Boo makeup by Olivia Brown models: Barry Hunter and Noelle Lutterbie photographed by Allison Jenkins
Both girls hope the quality of their designs will ensure their acceptance into a good graduate school and eventually allow them to get licensed and work in their desired locations. For Kelsey, the dream would be to work at a firm in Australia or London, even though she may have to start out in Boston or Seattle. Meyer, on the other hand, plans to stick around the Midwest because she likes the unique design of buildings in this region and how the buildings’ histories are reflected through their architecture. One thing to take away about architects: Meyer said, “Even though we keep it simple, we are really meticulous.” Kelsey agreed, “It’s like the little details will sell us.” 9 | Fall 2017
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styled by Tatum Suter makeup by Hannah Silverman models: Anna Grace Smith and Chloe Smith photographed by Bel Meals 11 | Fall 2017
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LET’S GET written by Vivian Drury
C
arrie Bradshaw once said, “Every year, the women of New York leave behind the past and look forward to the future . . . this is known as Fashion Week.” Millions of people watch in awe as art worthy of hanging on museum walls struts across their line of vision. Bulbs flash in the dim room, their light attempting to capture the fabric of the dresses as it flows across the slick runway, lenses and eyes widening in complete amazement. As beautiful and glamorous as runway fashion is, it can be just as intimidating and overwhelming. In today’s world, even with trends being as limitless as they now are, wearing runway fashions every day is shied away from and the thought of, “Can I really pull this off ?” lingers in the back of our minds far too often. “There is this notion that runway fashion only belongs on models and that its weird, twisted sense of beauty is too out-there for daily life,” said merchandising intern Lane Allen. Allen works for New York fashion designer and company, Lela Rose.
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“Yet when that beauty is translated onto the streets and it is seen by not only an audience of a show, but of reality, that is the real meaning of fashion.” One of the elements that makes runway fashion so captivating is its shock factor and limitless opportunity. In the spring of 1999, Alexander McQueen put on a show that Vogue claimed “wasn’t a fashion show. It was a performance of art.” It was the first use of stiff exaggerated collars, sheer buttondowns and played with sensuality in such a light, yet daring way. This collection is just one of the many that define modern fashion. One might ask, “how did he pull it off ?” By utilizing the runway as his own personal platform to debate and display beauty. Why are we so afraid to do the same, even when these designers prove year after year there is no right and wrong way to do so? Couture is no longer just to be seen at fashion weeks across the globe. Now is the time for high fashion to take over High Street and beyond. This is our time. Let’s get weird, ladies and gentlemen.
styled by Kate Kronstein makeup by Erin Haymaker models: Molly Shapiro, Sami Brattland and Meg Ussery photographed by Christina Vitellas
Yet when that beauty is translated onto the streets and it is seen by not only an audience of a show, but of reality, that is the real meaning of fashion. Looking for a place to start? UP has you covered. So sit back, kick up your Louboutins and read over these tips on how you can wear the looks from the 2017 runways to Oxford’s own brick-paved streets: Feelin’ Fringe-y: Fringe is one of the hottest trends, filling up the pages in Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and every style blog on the web. The best part about it is it comes in so many forms. It is found on jean hems, boots, jackets, handbags and more. Fringe is and can be anywhere. You can also do it yourself ! Grab a pair of fabric scissors, an old T-shirt, make a few snips and fray some fabric to personalize your style. The Smoke Effect: Fire up the streets with the updated smokey eye. Smokey eyes are no longer just layers of black eyeshadow. They are now all popping up in all sorts of colors, like magenta, turquoise and mustard. Mix up all sorts of colors on your palette along with bold eyeliner and mascara colors.
Belt It Out: Christian Dior’s fall collection features thin high-waisted snakeskin belts worn on the outside of clothing. It is such a simple, delicate touch but really styles up the outfit. Metallics are also in, so a thin metallic belt would work perfectly. Go Bold: It may be fall, but we are not skimping out on colors or patterns this season. Color filled the runway, in all sorts of crazy patterns and unique pairings. From rose velvet to violet faux fur to metallic leather, don’t hold back. From Head to Toe: Nothing says couture like a statement headwear piece. Giorgio Armani, Maison Margiela and many other designers finished off their fall collections with stunning hats. Even if it means experimenting with headscarves, play around with headwear to step up your style game. 2017 is the time to be stared at as you walk down the street. Dare to be talked about. It doesn’t matter if people say, “Wow, that’s amazing” or “Wow, that’s weird as hell.” They’re talking, and you’re not even saying a word. 15 | Fall 2017
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styled by Gigi Zhu models: Ruth Payne, Katherine Menza, Emma Nolte and Emily Watkins photographed by Douglas Chan 17 | Fall 2017
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styled by Ben Krautheim makeup by Hannah Silverman models: Matt Zeldin, Steele Fitzwater and Sofa Bah photographed by Lauren Walker
male maintenance 22 | Fall 2017
Maintenance for the Modern Male written by Molly Nicholas
I
f I’ve learned anything from watching “The Bachelor,” it’s that men have a “getting ready” process that competes with any woman’s routine.
Famous “Bachelor” personalities like Dean Unglert, Robby Hayes and Jordan Rodgers have hairstyles that probably bring them into the salon for far longer, and far more frequent, appointments than me (or anybody else with an extensive beauty routine). Not only is hair maintenance key for both sexes, but applying makeup has become a gender-neutral routine as well. Maybelline and CoverGirl both have a male spokesperson representing their brand: James Charles was the first male model for CoverGirl, and Manny Gutierrez was Maybelline’s.
A style like Karayianopoulos’s is hard to achieve. He has a cut similar to the "Bachelor" stars everyone sees today. This hairstyle features longer, swept-back hair on top with shorter, shaved sides that celebs like David Beckham and Zayn Malik have been sporting recently. Although it looks great, keeping up with this ‘do is no easy feat. Karayianopoulos normally gets his hair cut every three to four weeks on the side and dyes his hair about once every two months. He prefers to get his hair done at home, but will go to Luna Blu in Oxford for touch-ups on his highlights when necessary.
Looking closer to home at the surge in personal beauty care for men, Miami University senior Nick Karayianopoulos believes in the importance of maintaining a clean-cut look.
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Karayianopoulos takes pride in his appearance, and this idea is further evolving in society today. It’s becoming more socially acceptable to see men in makeup. CoverGirl and Maybelline’s move towards male spokespeople shows society that makeup is not just for women anymore. They’re specifically gearing commercials towards men to use their products openly and without hesitation. Covergirl’s whole campaign supports “Lash Equality” and ends with the statement “equal is beautiful.” The company wants people watching the commercial to look at its makeup as a gender-neutral product, not something specifically designed for women. Although Karayianopoulos has not worn a full face of makeup quite like James Charles, he supports the idea. “I think that anyone who wants to use makeup to better their appearance should be allowed to use it,” Karayianopoulos said. “I think that it is super important men don’t feel ashamed for using makeup because it is seen as feminine, because everybody has the choice to style themselves as they want.” I mean, why should women be the only ones able to cover up a blemish with concealer, or make blotchy skin look more flawless with foundation? Additionally, Karayianopoulos has taken a stage makeup class at Miami University, which provided him with a lot of experience using similar products. “I have been in many theater productions where I have worn stage makeup and I have also taken a stage makeup course as part of my music theater minor,” Karayianopoulos said. In those classes, he learned how to apply the products, which made him more comfortable using makeup in general because theater cosmetics are applied in a more liberal fashion than everyday beauty products. “I personally don’t want to wear makeup because it would be another thing to have to do in the morning,” Karayianopoulos said. “However, I love to wear makeup in shows to be honest because it makes me feel very attractive.”
The ability to feel more attractive is something no one should be denied. With the idea of male maintenance becoming more conventional than unconventional, there is no beauty routine that men should be afraid or ashamed to try. A huge part of maintenance is personal style, which Karayianopoulos definitely employs. His go-to outfits usually include graphic tees, flannels and shorts that fall above the knee. Karayianopoulos loves to pair this kind of outfit with black Converse or Birkenstocks. The clothing a person wears is another factor of looking your best. As he changed throughout high school and college, so did his style choices. “In high school, I normally wore things that were mostly for comfort and I didn’t really understand how to dress for my body shape,” Karayianopoulos said. “Now, I try and dress myself to look as thin as possible by wearing less tight fitting tops and tighter fitting jeans.” Even though maintaining his look is important to Karayianopoulos, he’s a regular college student that has those mornings where getting ready just isn’t an option. “Sometimes I will try on a few outfits the night before and just lay it out if I know I have to wake up early and won’t have time,” Karayianopoulos said. “Most of the time though, I just look at the weather in the morning, and that’s how I decide what type of clothes I will wear. The more time I have, the more I put into my appearance.” Even though the idea of “male maintenance” is newer to society, Karayianopoulos believes it is an idea that will continue to grow. With brands like CoverGirl and Maybelline picking up male models, there is no doubt other companies will follow in their footsteps. “I think that male maintenance will continue to become more popular. Men are more comfortable today grooming their eyebrows, getting highlights, using face masks or any tip of skincare ritual,” Karayianopoulos said. “Maintaining a clean-cut look is something that I take pride in, and I think that a lot of men also take pride in.”
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just be a queen
d e f i n i n g d r a g c u lt u r e i n o x f o r d , o h i o
written by Bella Douglas
O
xford, Ohio is the fount of many things, considering the mere seven square miles it encompasses. Home to Miami University’s 17,000 undergraduates, the Crunch and Munch and Brick Street Bar and Grill, Oxford provides a picture-perfect college existence for many. More surprisingly, it also used to house a vibrant—albeit underground—drag scene on 13 W. High St. To be clear, I mean underground in both senses of the word. Aptly named, Cellar Bar happens to be literally underground, but it is also the former host of one of Oxford’s more subversive scenes. In the past, queens such as Kisha Summers, Khloee Jae and Sarah Jessica Darker graced the humble dive with their presence on Turn Up Tuesdays.
worked to make me a lot more confident and comfortable in my own skin. I love that drag is a subversive culture formed by people who were sick of dealing with a society that constantly persecuted them for being different. how and why did you become involved with the drag scene at miami? what did turn up tuesdays consist of?
I heard about the shows at the Cellar from a friend who really wanted to go, so it was very spur of the moment. We went, hung out with some of the queens and loved every second of it because it wasn’t something we expected to see in Oxford during our time here—Oxford’s nightlife is not super diverse.
Events like these are extremely important in diversifying campus life for students who may not fit into the traditional roles established by our heteronormative culture. It’s a shame that Turn Up Tuesdays have fallen through the cracks. With the rise of “RuPaul’s Drag Race” and the increased visibility of drag culture, one can only hope that something similar will take its place and offer a welcoming environment for the marginalized.
The shows usually involved six to seven queens that did two or three lip-sync performances each, with banter between sets with the host. During the songs, the audience tipped the queens and the queens interacted with the audience—it was just a very inclusive and fun environment, as long as everyone was respectful. I really hope to see it come back this year, because it was honestly the highlight of my week.
I reached out to avid drag-fan and former Turn Up Tuesday regular, Eli Graham, to gain more insight into drag in Oxford and its influence on Miami’s ethos.
what do you think drag’s purpose is in
what is your personal history with drag culture and how has it shaped who you are? what do you love about drag?
I first found drag culture toward the end of high school, and was immediately obsessed. Like a lot of others, I tumbled into drag starting with “RuPaul’s Drag Race” and now I’m attending shows whenever I can. To me, it’s this world of taking everything that was ever used to put you down and reclaiming it as your own. Finally there was this culture where I didn’t feel like I was trying to meet society’s expectations of gender, and I think that has 26 | Fall 2017
2017?
do you think our country’s current political climate has influenced the culture of drag?
I think drag is very important in 2017 as a tool for the queer community to stay loud and proud, and to be a reminder that life is not always that serious. The political climate has definitely changed drag culture, as they are issues that can heavily effect [sic] everyone involved. Same-sex marriage being nationally legalized is a very recent event, and a right many in the community are scared to lose under our new leadership. Transgender people are losing their right to serve a country that has been less than friendly to them all the way up to this day. There’s a new fear holding the community together tightly and now’s the time to be louder than ever.
do you think that miami university has a welcoming and inclusive environment where drag can be embraced as an acceptable form of self-expression and entertainment?
I think that Miami is welcoming enough, but I’m not sure that we’ll see drag fully embraced too quickly. When we would walk down High Street with the queens, there were always hateful comments and plenty of weird looks, so it’s not exactly the most appealing location for performers. However, even more discouraging than that, it seems to be treated as a novelty. After the first week, the Cellar was quickly losing attendance because everyone had already gotten their Instagram picture. It was sad to see that there were not very many people who wanted to support the show and make sure that these hardworking queens would be able to come back. However, I do hope to see a lot of attendance when BenDelaCreme from “RuPaul’s Drag Race” season six performs in Armstrong in November. To see such a huge name from the drag community being brought in by Miami makes me very, very happy and I can’t wait to see curious people to come see what the world of drag is all about. drag has long been considered a form of insurrection and a powerful protest of heteronormative society. do you feel like this is still the case?
I think it’s a huge form of protest to this day. It’s a way to speak up and be seen, especially with “Drag Race” being more popular than ever and a large number of homophobic people in positions of power. It’s time for the queer community to be seen and respected, and I think it’s finally time to get rid of our societal notions of what men and women, and all those who feel stuck in the middle, should be.
styled by Olivia Petas makeup by Erin Haymaker model: Abby McFadyen photographed by Kendall Erickson 27 | Fall 2017
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styled by Olivia Mancy makeup by Lily Sloan models: Julien Griffin and Hannah Warner photographed by Livvy List 29 | Fall 2017
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written by Kev O’Hara
J
ane Doe, humming softly, rolls the dial of the radio between her fingers and pirouettes across the floor. Frank Sinatra’s voice fills the air as Mrs. Doe, mitts in hand, takes the pie from the oven and rests it on the sill. Its buttery crust flakes atop an ocean of syrupy-sweetness, the cinnamon scent carried on a soft breeze flowing in through the open window. A smile is on Mrs. Doe’s lips as the front door clicks open, her fingers tidying her loosely-curled locks as John Doe enters the foyer. Mrs. Doe rushes into Mr. Doe’s arms, the couple laughing heartily as Mrs. Doe strokes Mr. Doe’s slicked-back hair, the ring on her left hand sparkling in the dim, evening light. Could anything be more perfect?
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styled by Caitlyn Maskalunas makeup by Hannah Silverman models: Jesse Dever and Paige Pennington photographed by Bel Meals
Jessi Wright, a junior at Miami, rolled her eyes. “No, thanks,” Wright said, laughing. “The pie sounds good, and maybe that description sounds perfect to someone else, but the rest of it does not sound perfect to me.” It seems Wright may be far from the only college student uninterested in the traditional, picturesque idea of finding ‘Happily Ever After,’ much less while enrolled in college. According to a recent report published by the U.S. Census Bureau entitled “The Changing Economics and Demographics of Young Adulthood From 1975 to 2016,” writer Jonathan Vespa reports that “in the 1970s, 8 in 10 people married by the time they turned 30. Today, not until the age of 45 have 8 in 10 people married.” Vespa investigated this fact further, explaining, “most of today’s Americans believe that educational and economic accomplishments are extremely important milestones of adulthood. In contrast, marriage and parenthood rank low.”
“I cannot fathom legally binding myself to another person before I’ve even finished my education, gotten a job and stabilized my finances.” I cannot fathom legally binding myself to another person before I’ve even finished my education, gotten a job and stabilized my finances,” Wright concurred, her opinions matching many of Vespa’s statistical findings. Vespa discovered especially interesting data concerning the marital habits of adults in their early 20s, a time when many Americans are away at college. He found that “between 1976 and 2014. . . the decline in marriage. . . [fell] from 57 percent to just 17 percent among women aged 20 to 24 years old.” Considering the amount that has changed in the United States over the past 38 years, it comes as no surprise to learn that Americans’ values have evolved alongside the ever-changing social, political and economic climates. Moreover, with numerous economic downturns having occurred over the past decade, as well as the legalization of gay marriage in 2015, analysts must consider more variables than ever before when studying the future of younger generations.
Yet, what about those people who have become engaged and who plan to be married in their early 20s? How must it feel to have chosen a path in which, once considered conventional, is now being seen as unconventional? Fish swimming against the tide, Chris and Kaylee* have the perfect answers to all your burning questions. “Chris went out and bought a ring and the rest is history,” Kaylee said. The couple, who met sophomore year and started dating two weeks after meeting one another, became engaged this past July. “The [overall] reaction to our engagement was overwhelmingly positive. Everyone from friends, to family, to people that just happened to glance at her ring reacted with surprise and excitement,” Chris said. “Kaylee’s parents . . . were very excited and happy, [too], and even said that they kind of saw it coming.” Although Chris graduated in 2017 and Kaylee will be a Miami graduate come December, the couple agreed that having one another during college “actually helped to relieve the stress of college.” “Other than being madly in love with each other, we realized that we . . . [also] had met the perfect partner, and throughout the two and a half years we’ve dated, the relationship has been perfect,” the couple harmonized. UP could not agree more: This Miami Merger is picture-perfect. In the end, whatever your beliefs may be, the important thing is to do what is right for you and your partner. If you would love nothing more than to dance around your kitchen, bake pies and await the arrival of your husband or wife, bake away! But if your hands are far too full of books to even begin rolling out dough, have no fear, for your future looks just as bright! And if you just aren’t sure? Join the club. Life is a process, to say the least, and a complicated one at that. Especially when you throw romance, marriage and parenthood on top of everything else? Who could blame you for wanting to take your time? So, sit back, relax and put a ring on it (but only if you so wish). That’s what Jessi Wright plans to do. “I have so many other things I think about in terms of my future, so I don’t even know if marriage is for me,” Wright said, smiling. “I guess only time will tell.” *students’ surnames omitted for privacy
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styled by Lilly Schneider makeup by Erin Haymaker model: Ellie Lyon photographed by Katie Wickman and Christina Vitellas 36 | Fall 2017
written by Madysen George
T The past few years have given minimalism its time in the spotlight... but now it’s all about the details.
he year was 2008. I was 11 years old, and suddenly Raven from “That’s So Raven” was no longer my fashion icon. I couldn’t brave the halls of middle school in jeans that were bedazzled or—worse—embroidered. The summer before sixth grade, I boxed up my fun polka-dotprinted tights and knee socks. I said goodbye to my four different “M” necklaces and, yes, several pairs of embroidered jeans. Lo and behold, I embraced conformity—I went to a public school, but there was a uniform: skinny jeans, a graphic tee and a hoodie. Somehow, this seemed better. Thankfully, most of us left this uniform behind with our over-straightened side bangs and angsty mirror pictures, but it is only recently that we have dared to once again have fun with fashion. I wish I could go back in time and shock my adolescent self with the knowledge that by age 20, I will be the proud owner of a pair of pink suede heels with stitch floral detail. I want to tell her to not throw out that jean jacket with the multicolored flowers on the back and inform her that pretty soon it will be cool again to play with your clothes. And it is: Understated has no place in the whimsical trends reappearing not only on the runway and city streets, but on campus. Think tulle skirts and chunky bags; think sneakers with fun colors and tassels on everything. Patchwork, nameplate necklaces, lace on the outside and cotton on the inside—the return to customizable fashion holds limitless potential. In the right hands, these resurrected statements can be stylish and chic. Here are the looks you shouldn’t-and really can’t—miss.
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The past few years have given minimalism its time in the spotlight, and it’s not as though clean lines and simple fabrics will ever be out, but now it’s all about the details. Enter: embroidery. It’s everywhere and we still can’t get enough. Look for bright red roses bringing life to the sleeves or neckline of a classic black top, or snag a pair of jeans with a perfectlystitched garden gracing its pockets. There’s no such thing as too pink, too floral, or too loud; it’s time to liberate thread once more! Dark booties with white lilies on the sides, or perhaps pink suede block heels, are your new staple footwear. It’s an effortless way to bring color and interest to your old go-to outfits. If you have a favorite piece already, don’t be afraid to add your own accent by way of patchwork. A simple Google search could lead to a breath of new life for your tried-and-trues. If you aren’t handy with a sewing machine, like so many of us aren’t, don’t worry! There are thousands of iron-on options and I promise nobody will be able to tell the difference. If florals aren’t your thing but being fabulous is, now is your time to shine—literally. Bedazzling is back and better than ever. Use it in place of needlework to spice up your denim or to elevate your jacket game. Put it on a sweatshirt so that even your lazy days are glam. Like embroidery, there are so many ways to DIY that being radiant on a budget is easier than ever!
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For those simply opposed to embellishment of any sort, but still ready to embrace this fresh wave of whimsy, the on-trend fabrics of the moment are your salvation. Velvet has made its return and doesn’t appear to be leaving any time soon. Go for it in a classic slip dress or dare to rock it in a body suit. Metallic is the statement piece for any outfit; from a mini skirt to boots, rose gold to chrome silver, metal and fabric is the power couple we didn’t know we needed, but we all deserve. Tulle is here to free the Carrie Bradshaw in all of us; pair your ruffled skirt with pumps and a blouse, and it’s your dinner party. With fun sneakers and a tank, it’s your brunch date. Give it a denim or leather jacket and top it off with your favorite shades to show you’re a ballerina, but you’re also a rebel. While you’re at it, pay further homage to your inner Carrie with a nameplate necklace of your very own, because your new favorite brand is you. After seeing so many ways to play dress up as an adult, I couldn’t help but wonder: Why tailor only the fit of your clothes, when it’s easier than ever to tailor every last detail to your unique taste? Don’t stop there, though! There are thousands of ways to utilize online shopping to your custom advantage, and never shy away from your local thrift shops, or even TJ Maxx. One man’s clearance rack is another’s conversation starter. Now if you’ll excuse me, I have some embroidered jeans and polka dot tights to unearth.
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styled by Katrina Kariotis makeup by Hannah Silverman models: Yasmine Islam and Hailee Maller photographed by Livvy List 42 | Fall 2017
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Dreamers The Americanler Sm ith written by Ad
C
an you, as a person who’s never committed a crime, be illegal? The honest answer is no. We believe it’s common sense that a person who’s never committed a crime is not a criminal, but when it comes to immigration in the United States, that’s not how the average person might think. “Illegal immigrant” is the term most commonly used when referring to a person who came to the U.S. without applying for citizenship. A person is accused of committing a crime because they moved from one area to another. The argument over whether that is an actual crime or not has been a topic vigorously debated and discussed over the past 10 years.
One of the programs that tried to address this issue came from former President Obama a little over five years ago with DACA. DACA stands for Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals. In June 2012, Obama announced a new policy which would protect young undocumented children—commonly referred to as Dreamers— from deportation. This body of Dreamers isn’t a small group, either: it protected almost 700,000 kids from deportation. However, DACA carries fine-print requirements for its recipients. It only protected those who were enrolled in school from deportation. The policy doesn’t offer any path to citizenship, does not allow students to apply for financial aid and excludes anyone who has been convicted of a felony or significant misdemeanor. On top of all these requirements, those who apply for the program must pay a $495 application fee and prove that they’ve lived in the U.S. at different specified times. Even with all these restrictions in the program, DACA was at least some form of unconventional protection. But under President Trump’s current administration, Attorney General Jeff Sessions announced this September the administration has decided not to extend the program, and to instead rescind it within the next year. The implications of this are devastating to the Dreamers. The U.S. Immigrations and Customs Engagement department (more popularly known as ICE) , the government agency responsible for arresting undocumented immigrants, can now target DACA recipients for deportation. Because of the president’s decision to shorten DACA, students in the program may be deported to countries they have never been to before, or have only lived in briefly. DACA has stood as a shield of protection for immigrant children for more than half a decade. However, like most policies, it certainly has its
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flaws. With several restrictions imposed on DACA applicants, it seems like those protesting to save it are trying to save a broken program. While the program protected hundreds of thousands of undocumented people living in the United States, the number is rather minuscule in comparison to the 11 million undocumented immigrants who currently reside in the U.S. For all intents and purposes, DACA was a reputable program; it protected undocumented students who have lived in the U.S. from the unfathomably scary potential of deportation. But the program does not go far enough. Placing restrictions on who can and cannot stay in this country targets those who are most vulnerable. Additionally, trying to decide who stays and who goes based on merit is just one way we try to justify kicking out certain people without feeling guilty ourselves. Gissel Salas, president of Miami University’s Association of Latin and American Students, said that although DACA wasn’t perfect, it was at least protection. “DACA has given thousands of undocumented immigrants the opportunity to attend school and prepare for a better future,” Salas said. “It has given those, who had no choice where they live, the hope that they can become something more than what America expects them to be.” “However, the removal of DACA also brings to light another issue with immigration,” she continued. “It goes to show that there is no chance for these students to gain citizenship. They have lived here their entire life, or most of it, in
America and their rights can be taken away in the blink of an eye. America has issues with the way it handles immigration. While the removal of DACA has created an issue, it has opened people’s eyes to an even bigger issue America has.” However, there is still some hope for the Dreamers. The bipartisan BRIDGE Act, reintroduced by senators Lindsey Graham and Dick Durbin, allows temporary protection from deportation for Dreamers, with guidelines and restrictions similar to DACA. Additionally, two republican senators (Thom Tillis and James Lankford), have proposed a bill they qualify as “conservative” that would protect DACA recipients. While hope is not gone, these efforts are not sure to succeed in Congress—potentially taking the fear for Dreamers back to square one. Salas said the abrogation of the program would be devastating. “The removal of DACA is going to be detrimental to the education of thousands of students,” she said. Our ultimate goal should be to become accepting of any undocumented immigrants that enter this country. Almost all of us have had relatives come to this country as immigrants and are really no different from those moving here today. Being born in this country is an extremely privileged experience that we should share with anyone who comes here, no matter their race, religion or country of origin.
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written by Haley Jena
O
ne morning in middle school, my mom complimented my outfit and a wave of disappointment washed over my 13-yearold self. I had switched a bland Hollister graphic tee with an unexpected yet sophisticated army jacket– tunic combo, and my mother—brimming with years of on-point fashion wisdom that she still possesses today at the age of 61—approved of it. To middle school me, her assent was a sign I should change clothes simply because she belonged to an older generation. I was young, I was appalled, and I was wrong.
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I was foolish to dismiss my mom’s opinion of my outfit in middle school, just as the beauty industry has been unreasonable to disregard older-aged models, actresses and other icons in modern-day culture. It feels misguided to say that age in fashion and pop culture is having a “moment” when beauty and cultural goddesses have always guided us to today’s trends. Look no further than the surge of ’70s-inspired fashion you can spot today anywhere from New York Fashion Week to a Saturday darty: circular and splashy sunglasses, suede mini skirts, denim jackets and bell-bottom jeans, vibrant couch
styled by Sofia Bazianos makeup by Erin Haymaker models: Melanie Mortimore and Shara Clark photographed by Morgan Minnock
florals, boho peasant blouses—the list could go on forever. Fashion is cyclical, and slowly but surely new generations of thinkers are realizing it’s nonsensical to push away the icons that championed our trends and culture on the basis of age alone. Indeed, the beauty industry possesses an erroneous decadence of hiding from age. Kate de Medeiros, an associate professor in the Sociology and Gerontology Department at Miami, said that ageism affecting women—especially in pop culture and the beauty industry—is alive and well.
“In models particularly, older women have one thing in common where they look much younger than the average American woman their age. Look at Christie Brinkley, for example,” de Medeiros said. “The media has this fascination with saying, ‘She should look old but she doesn’t! How does she look so good?’” Despite ageism having shoved its way through different eras, it certainly seems to be on its way out. At this year’s fashion weeks—everywhere from New York to Milan to Paris to London—there were over four times the amount of over-age-50 models
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in the fall 2017 shows as last spring, according to theFashionSpot’s newest diversity report. Maybe Musk, a 69-year-old icon who has marched through the modeling world for more than five decades, is the newest face of CoverGirl (and, by the way, has cheekbones superior to mine at age 20). Debbie Harry (more popularly known as Blondie and less popularly known as 72 years old) graced the cover of Nylon this summer and blessed readers with iconic life advice from a lifetime spent ruling the rock’n’roll world.
“Despite ageism having shoved its way through different eras, it certainly seems to be on its way out” And the woman power doesn’t stop there. @IconAccidental, also known as 64-year-old Lyn Slater, started an insanely stylish, fresh fashion blog and within six months had a cover story for Grey magazine; now, her Instagram account is verified and boasts more than 250,000 followers. On an even larger scale, it speaks volumes that the editorin-chief of Vogue and overall empress of fashion, Anna Wintour, is 67 years old. Yes, the woman paramountly dictating every trend in the world, is by common definition a senior citizen. In a recent interview with Vogue, Cher chastised the confinements of so-called age appropriateness. “Look, my mom’s 91 and she is a cool dresser,” said
Cher, 71. “She hasn’t really changed anything since she was in her fifties, so I don’t believe in that ‘Oh, you get to a certain age and you have to cut your hair and you have to stop doing one thing or another’ thing. I just think that I’ll wear some of the stuff I have as long as I can get into it.” So, is there a reason for this surge in badass older women not shying away from the limelight just because of age? “The baby boomer generation is a large cohort of people now around the age-65 mark, and they’re a huge economic force in our culture—on average, they’ve got money to spend, and [the recent surge of age in beauty] comes from the industry targeting to those baby boomers—the people with the money,” de Medeiros said. “It’s highlighting their age and the celebrity icons that they’re familiar with and grew up with.” But have no fear of the overbearing rule of the baby boomer era: there is ample cause for celebration of seeing less and less ageism in present-day culture, and more and more older female avant-gardes move closer to center stage. “People are becoming more aware of the problems [caused by ageism] and are more sensitive to these sorts of issues and discriminations,” de Medeiros said. “Age is one of the things that’s a problem when it doesn’t align with what a particular society values, so if those societal values shift and keep becoming more accepting like it slowly is, then I’m hopeful for ageism to decrease and change.” As the beauty and cultural trailblazers of our era tip into their golden years, they certainly don’t intend to do so quietly, nor submit to the restrictive rules of age appropriateness or beauty—and why should they? They’ve always been quintessentially fabulous—then, now and forever.
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I
n a technology-driven world, disrupting companies tend to come out on top. Especially when these companies offer a life-altering service. And especially when it’s free. Leigh Seven and Jinesh Shah did just that. By finding a way to help individual stylists grow, manage and expand their businesses, the idea for Arthur was born. The co-founders saw an opportunity to redefine the shopping experience by providing freelance stylists with the right tools to manage their day-to-day businesses by using Arthur. Arthur is an online platform that helps stylists manage their digital lookbooks, bill their clients and get paid all in one place. Unlike its competitors, Arthur allows both the stylist and the shopper to preview outfit recommendations through digital lookbooks. With easy, one-click access, the shopper has the power to flip through lookbooks before making a choice on which styles they prefer. That way, a stylist is sending the desired clothes and accessories based on the shopper’s personal preference. Coming from an entrepreneurial background, with a primary focus on design, fashion and technology, Seven and Shah wanted to enhance the professional lives of stylists.
“Styling is a very personal and intimate thing,” Seven said. “Stylists provide better service when they can manage their own preference and style.” Take it from UP’s own fashion director, Olivia Mancy. “I love how the lookbooks directed me to the brand’s websites for each piece of clothing,” Mancy said. “Arthur is going to help me stay up to trends and learn from others.” After conducting market research, the pair found that many stylists want to work with their own clients, perhaps on their own time, but have no way of making that happen digitally. On top of that, the companies that employ stylists end up charging those employees for using their tools. “We only work with the stylists to provide tools for free so they can be as successful as possible,” Shah said. “That’s what sets us apart from our competitors.” So how do Shah and Seven fund their venture? Only when a purchase is made. After the lookbooks have been created and a client purchases through them, a stylist earns commission through the sales. That commission is then split between Arthur and the stylist. After seeing a surging success rate, Arthur plans to expand into interior design and beauty. They also hope to become a useful source for retailers who may sponsor stylists in return for name-brand recognition. So, if you are a social media guru or want to expand your fashion outreach, why not try Arthur—styling made easier and better today.
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a Ulasevich
written by Karolin
WWW
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styled by Tatum Suter makeup by Erin Haymaker models: Emmie Hanna, Gabrielle Seni Chloe Ramnarine and Chase Mulholland photographed by Juhno Moon 58 | Fall 2017
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Divine Inspiration written by Madelaine Wood
I
n the interest of full transparency, I’ve always thought astrology was a sham. I’m a firm believer in making your own destiny, not following what Cosmopolitan tells you to do on any given day. Naturally I still read the VICE Snapchat daily horoscope, but that’s mostly because I’m a creature of habit. Growing up in a traditional Roman Catholic household, I was taught to trust in one belief system, and astrology had no place in that. As you can imagine, I was super skeptical when I received my astrological chart as a birthday gift from my mom this year. The chart looked rather unremarkable – it was a simple stapled packet of printer paper – but contained an outline of my entire existence on this earth boiled down to roughly 4000 words. According to the introduction of my chart, “The purpose of an astrological chart is to give a bird’s eye view of a life way; choices, pitfalls and blessings which, if seen beforehand can help minimize those difficulties and enhance accomplishments and joys.
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Just as the moon effects [sic] the earth’s oceans, the placement of the planets at the time of birth influence both direction and how goals are achieved. Astrology is a separate language that provides a compelling metaphor.” With a little hesitation and a large eyeroll, I dove into the chart. I hate to admit it, but a lot of the predictions and personality traits were uncomfortably true. I won’t go into excruciating detail, but my quirky love of libraries and passion for communicating with others hit the nail on the head, as did my fiercely independent spirit and need for alone time.
“If we as human beings have the ability to follow the earth, moon and stars in order to have a better idea of what type of life we may live, why wouldn’t we take it more seriously?”
styled by Olivia Mancy makeup by Lily Sloan models: Gianna Reider and Nicole Bennett photographed by Douglas Chan
Even before I read the astonishingly accurate chart that succeeded the introduction, I was hooked. It’s a shame that this unconventional belief system has become a pop culture talking point instead of a way to be your best self. In regards to the way the 12 zodiac signs work, The American Federation of Astrologers website offers some insight. “The division of the 12 signs of the zodiac … is based on the earth’s year-long rotation around the Sun and relates to character traits and areas of life (e.g., Venus represents affection, Mercury represents speech and writing, etc.). Each planet is associated with two signs, and the Sun and Moon with one each.” Astrology may seem like a bunch of mumbo-jumbo, but it’s grounded in the centuries old science of astronomy, and has been studied since long before we were on Earth. A whole lot more goes into the art of horoscopes than a millennial searching for behavioral excuses. Every single human has a different astrological existence.
What’s even cooler is the way that our astrological signs can become customizable extensions of our personalities. In a time when society is finally accepting people for their true selves, it’s important to embrace the attributes that are unique to you. Even if you don’t believe everything your sign says about you, it’s another way to express individuality. As you read earlier in this issue, custom fashion is making a huge comeback, and astrology-themed looks are no exception. Walk into any boutique, superstore or Urban Outfitters, and you’re guaranteed to find at least one accessory or garment that reflects your zodiac. On the search for astrologyinfluenced pieces? Check out J. Crew’s new line of sign-based T-shirts or Tory Burch’s astrology cuff bracelets. Granted, some signs are cuter than others (sorry to all you Cancers out there), but the zodiacs are a kitschy way to bring a little bit of flair to your everyday look. Next time you’re attempting to blend sense of style with sense of self, look no further than the stars. 67 | Fall 2017
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