TOQUE 19 - The Food Issue

TOQUE

The Cornerstone owners Syd & Thuy at their downtown Guelph culinary digs

Gallery

Tuesday

Saturday 10 am to 5 pm

Sunday 1 to 5 pm

25 Caroline Street North, Waterloo, ON, N2L 2Y5 519-746-1882 theclayandglass.ca

Matthew O’Reilly, Smoldering Grecian, 2020. Ceramic, plaster, metal, paint. Photo Courtesy of the artist.

Jared Last, Optic Series (Clear Ohira), 2022. Blown, sand carved glass. Photo courtesy of the artist.

EST. 1892 - BERLIN, ON

This global pandemic continues to affect almost all industries – including the paper industry. Just weeks before going to print with this issue of TOQUE, we were once again informed (for the fourth issue in a row now) that, as a result of difficulties in this industry, our regular paper stock was no longer available. Like many businesses during these challenging times, we were forced to pivot – compelled to choose a new paper stock, sight unseen. Please bear with us as we – like so many of you –find ourselves doing our best to adapt to this new 'normal'.

Contributors: Dani Kuepfer, Shelby Leenders, Christina Mann & Monica Mazun

magazine TM

CAi SEPULIS, partner art director. design & illustration CHRIS TIESSEN, partner editor. writing & photography

‘THERE IS NO LOVE SINCERER THAN THE LOVE OF FOOD.’ – GEORGE BERNARD SHAW

WHILE WE’RE NOT INCLINED TO TELL ANYONE TO GO EAT THEIR WORDS, WE’RE MORE THAN HAPPY TO DIRECT YOU – OUR WONDERFUL READER – TO EAT OURS. OR, PERHAPS MORE SPECIFICALLY, TO SAVOUR THESE WORDS – AND THOSE THAT FOLLOW – WHICH ARE ABOUT EATING, AND DRINKING, AND OTHER FOOD-RELATED GLEE. INDEED, WE’RE KEEN TO HAVE YOU SHARE THEM WITH US. AFTER ALL, FOOD – AND FOOD-RELATED PROSE AND IMAGES, WE WOULD ARGUE –IS MOSTLY ABOUT SHARING. WANT SECONDS? GOT LEFTOVERS? HAVE ROOM FOR DESSERT? NEED A SNACK? THESE ARE ALL QUESTIONS THAT POINT TOWARD A COMMUNAL ACT OF FILLING BELLIES. WITH FOOD, YES. AND WITH LOVE, TOO. AND WHILE EATING IS SO OFTEN ABOUT SHARING, SO IS CREATING. CREATING FOOD. CREATING DRINKS. CREATING SPACES FOR FOLKS TO COME TOGETHER AND SHARE JOY WITH EACH OTHER. IN THIS ISSUE WE FOCUS ON CREATORS OF GREAT FOOD AND DRINK AND ON THOSE SPACES WHERE WE ENJOY THESE TOGETHER-MAKING THINGS. WE TELL THE TALE OF BEVERAGE ALCOHOL BARON JOHN SLEEMAN AND HIS FIRST BATCH WHISKY RELEASE, OF EMERGENT RESTAURANTEUR JILL SADLER AND HER UPTOWN CULINARY SANCTUARY, OF SECOND-GENERATION VINTNER ADRIAN TROCHTA AND HIS WINE- AND BEER-MAKING MECCA, AND MORE. WE INVESTIGATE THREE KITCHENER BREWERIES AND DELVE INTO THE PRODUCT AND PRODUCE OF THE RE-INVIGORATED GUELPH FARMERS’ MARKET. AND WE ALSO TAKE A SERIOUS LOOK AT MORE COMPLEX ISSUES OF FOOD SECURITY AND CIRCULAR FOOD SYSTEMS. THE NARRATIVES WE OFFER HERE POINT TO ENTERPRISES THAT ARE, UPON FIRST GLANCE, DISTINCT AND UNIQUE. AND YET WE RECOGNIZE – AND APPLAUD – THEM AS CLOSELY-RELATED AND HARMONIOUS PIECES OF A REGIONAL FOOD ECOSYSTEM THAT IS, TRULY, ALL ABOUT SHARING. INDEED, OUR REGION’S FOOD BUSINESSES AND FOOD PERSONALITIES AND FOOD INITIATIVES ALL SHARE A SEAT AT THE SAME TABLE – A TABLE THAT HAS ROOM FOR ANYONE, AND THAT AIMS TO FEED EVERYONE. SO WE BRING YOU HERE, AMONGST AN OFFERING OF SOME OF OUR MOST CHERISHED STORIES AND IMAGES, SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHT. WELCOME TO OUR ANNUAL FOOD ISSUE.

ARTHUR ST S

ELIZABETHST Speed River

PASSION, HARD WORK, AND ASPIRATION: DISTILLING

SPRING MILL’S INAUGURAL WHISKY RELEASE

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

As John deftly lifts the copper whiskey thief by its chain from the small round hole at the top of the virgin oak barrel, small splashes of amber-coloured liquid overflow from the brim of the distilling tool and onto the barrel’s top. John’s son Cooper is standing close by. ‘Just look at that colour,’ he says, almost in awe. 'Glorious,’ John responds, decanting a generous trickle of the alcohol into a couple of tumblers set atop the barrel. As father and son raise their glasses to inspect the stuff more closely, I take up my camera to capture this magical scene. It’s not every day that a person gets to document John and Cooper Sleeman –Canadian beverage alcohol royalty – inspecting the contents of a first-batch barrel of their inaugural traditional straight whisky.

It’s late August, early afternoon, and the three of us are gathered in the impressive rack

house at Spring Mill Distillery – John Sleeman’s ‘no expenses spared’ craft distillery built into a former stone mill abutting the Speed River in Guelph’s storied ‘Ward’ neighbourhood. It’s a magical space: the perfect amalgam of metre-thick stone walls, heavy wooden beams, and natural diffused light. The distillery’s stills alone – among the largest hand-hammered copper units in North America – are enough to make even the most hardened whisky drinker buckle at the knees. Its wash backs – crafted by a father and son team in Scotland from Canadian douglas fir that was imported from Canada for the construction of these specific pieces of distilling equipment – are things of unadulterated beauty. And the place’s ‘Ward Bar’ – featuring the mill’s original hearth poised to warm the room with roaring fires during cooler months – is an elevated watering hole that any lover of fine spirits and creative

GUELPH

John & Cooper Sleeman sampling whisky from a barrel in the Spring Mill rack house

cocktails will find to their liking. (The bar’s barrel aged negroni is a showstopper.)

And yet, each time I visit it’s the rack house that draws me. The massive room, located three floors up from the distillery proper, is packed with hundreds of barrels: some handcrafted for the distillery by Kelvin Cooperage in Louisville; others crafted closer to home from white oak pulled out of the woods near Belleville by an Amish farmer and his horse, by cooper Quinn Sleeman – John’s other son. The place is the embodiment of passion, hard work and, perhaps most poignantly, aspiration. ‘Because whisky takes at least three years to mature,' John tells me, ‘getting a whisky distillery up and running is all about looking to the future. While the investment has to be put up on day one, the fruits of a whisky distillery’s labour only begin to be felt years later.’

As I look around the rack house – taking in the scene of barrel upon barrel upon barrel – the weight of John’s remarks sinks in. Everything in here was crafted (by Spring Mill master

distiller Doan Bellman and his team) with the future in mind. Aspirational, indeed. ‘Every barrel in here is on its own unique journey to maturation,' Cooper remarks as he waves his hand toward the casks in front of him. ‘Some of these are filled with pot-finished –or Irish-style – whisky; others are filled with single malt. Some with Canadian rye, and yet others with traditional straight – or Bourbonstyle – whisky.’ Like the one the three of us are gathered around.

John lifts his glass, sniffs its contents, and takes a small sip. ‘This barrel isn’t quite ready,’ he notes, ‘but it’s getting there.’ Cooper concurs, and then turns towards me. ‘A few months ago,’ he begins, ‘I would have told you that the whisky in this barrel was still years away from maturation. But now I’d have to say that it might actually be ready to bottle in mere months.’ When I ask for an explanation, Cooper is quick to respond: ‘It’s our everchanging Canadian climate. Each barrel 'breathes' with the seasons. First its contents are absorbed into its white oak staves. This happens at different rates depending on

Quinn Sleeman

temperature and humidity. Then the contents are released again. As the barrel 'breathes', its content 'ages'. This year’s hot summer months really seem to have sped up this aging process.’

Just a bit longer, then, for the whisky in this particular barrel. Lucky for me (and for spirits lovers everywhere who have been waiting expectantly for Spring Mill’s first whisky release) dozens of other barrels from this first batch have already been bottled and distributed. And even luckier for me, I’ve been gifted one – here, in the rack house – by John Sleeman himself. I've placed it, appropriately enough, on an oak barrel of maturing traditional straight whisky a few feet away.

During a break in the action, I can't resist looking at the fifth glass vessel John has conferred on me – intrigued by the design of the thing. Straight away I note the distinctive, and somehow familiar, shape of its neck*. ‘We designed it to echo the silhouette of a Sleeman beer bottle,’ John tells me. Ah, of course. What a fantastic ‘easter egg’, I think to myself – a subtle visual cue (or ‘wink’) that connects the Sleeman beer business with its emergent spirits business. I like this game and go searching for more ‘eggs’. I tell John that I'm intrigued by the sepiatoned scene (done in the style of a nineteenthcentury engraving) stretching across the label, from edge to edge. It features a horse-drawn wagon transporting barrels of whisky (presumably) crossing in front of an old stone building, while a handful of folks chat around a large fountain in front of the place.

‘That’s a reproduction of an engraving of the first Sleeman distillery that my great great grandfather founded in St Davids in 1836,’ John tells me, adding: ‘He called it Spring Mill.’ Sensing that there are more stories lurking behind the rather intricate artwork, I ask John about the other image on the label – a black and white silhouetted illustration of three men, each defined, it seems, by a tool or a distinctive object. One is holding a coopering tool, one grasping a bottle, and the third wearing a tie.

‘My boys and me,’ John tells me, noticing where I've cast my querying eye. Quinn the cooper. Cooper the manager. And John the businessman. Hearing the

sense of pride in John's voice and sensing an opportunity to delve a bit into his sentimental side, I ask him what it means to have his sons working with him in the family business.

‘It makes me happy,’ the doting father begins, before the businessman adds, ‘as long as they don’t mess up.’ Cooper chuckles nervously, and I realize that any further move in the direction of sentiment won’t be realized today. John, always the businessman, observes matter-of-factly: ‘I never forced my kids to join the family business. In fact, I never even encouraged them to get into it.’ Indeed, John himself didn’t want to resurrect the Sleeman name when he first found out about the family business – which had been shuttered for fifty years because of less than aboveboard business practices that may or may not have included running booze to Al Capone. All that was before John brought the family business back to life in 1988. Recently his sons joined in. 'They’re here now and I’m happy for it,' he observes. 'Ultimately, though, their success rides solely on how well they do at their jobs –and not on their relation with me.’ Fair enough.

And so far so good, it would seem. Indeed, while John still works long hours at the brewery, it’s Cooper who manages much of what goes on at the distillery and Quinn who skilfully constructs barrels for its most important product. ‘By the time all of the contents of these barrels mature,’ Cooper notes, ‘we’ll have crafted sixteen different whiskies for release. Some will be complex, daring, sophisticated. Others – like the traditional straight whisky in your bottle there – will be more mellow, approachable, familiar.’ I pick up the bottle, turn it in my hand, and crack the seal. Now’s as good a time as any, I think to myself, chuckling discreetly at the thought that my first taste of the stuff will be in this distillery in the presence of two of the Sleeman clan.

‘It’s best with a bit of ice,’ John tells me as I pour some of the whisky into three more

(top & bottom) The distillery’s custom handcrafted wash backs

tumblers (which are not in short supply here), ‘but this will do.’ We raise our glasses, hold eye contact, and take a nip. It goes down smooth. Warm. Wonderful. Fulfilling. I set my glass down on the nearest barrel and ask John what he thinks of all this: the distillery he’s built, the brand he’s resurrected, the legacy he’s building on as a true beverage alcohol baron. He takes a minute, stares into his glass, and answers slowly: ‘Ultimately’, he begins, ‘I’m pleased with how far we’ve come – and I’m happy to keep going. To be sure, I’ve never aspired to rest on any laurels. Instead,’ he continues, ‘I’m most content when faced with a challenge and meeting it head on.’

John pauses, and then adds: ‘What we’re trying to do here is create strong products – whiskies and other spirits that we can stand behind. Products that make us – and our community – proud. As you can see,’ he adds, motioning towards the barrels all around us, ‘we’re in this for the long haul. Nothing about this distillery has been an effort to make a quick buck. Instead, it’s a slow burn – a project where we can work each day to grow something that we hope will be respected not only here but across Canada and beyond.’

While John pauses for a minute, Cooper and I stand in the stillness of the rack house. Then John delivers a succinct conclusion: ‘Ultimately, quality is always in fashion.’

Passion, hard work, aspiration – and quality. Words to live by.

DAYTRIPPIN’

ANDRA ARNOLD (BROKER, ROYAL LEPAGE ROYAL CITY REALTY), WITH HER HUSBAND KELLY ARNOLD (REALTOR®, ROYAL LEPAGE ROYAL CITY REALTY)

There aren’t many days (or hours, even) when Guelph broker Andra Arnold can get away from the ‘office’ – which is really wherever she happens to be. So when she does get some time to herself, she makes it count. Tag along with Andra and her husband Kelly as they spend a Saturday together in the region. (Just keep your phone on – after all, you never know when work might come calling.)

BALZAC’S COFFEE

ROASTERS

5 GORDON ST, GUELPH BALZACS.COM

1. All great Saturdays start with coffee. While Guelph has a lot of terrific cafés (The Common, Planet Bean, Double Rainbow, Red Brick, and more), on this particular morning Kelly and I choose Balzac’s. Its beautifully-appointed downtown location is close to the Guelph Farmers’ Market, offers great Fairtrade and Organic beans, and always serves up delicious fare. I grab a latte to-go, Kelly chooses a Balzac’s Blend coffee to-go, and we keep it movin’.

POLESTAR HEARTH

22

535 WOOLWICH ST, GUELPH POLESTARHEARTH.COM

2. Coffee in hand, we drive the short distance down Woolwich St to Polestar Hearth for a loaf of its awesome Superseed sourdough – perfect for tomorrow’s Sunday brunch. There’s almost always a line-up and parking’s not the greatest, but the bread is worth the hassle. Every. Single. Time. Kelly waits in the car while I collect the bread. After all, teamwork makes the dream work.

ST JACOBS FARMERS’ MARKET

878 WEBER ST N, WOOLWICH STJACOBSMARKET.COM

CAMBRIDGE BUTTERFLY CONSERVATORY

2500 KOSSUTH RD, CAMBRIDGE CAMBRIDGEBUTTERFLY.COM

LA REINA

10 WYNDHAM ST N, GUELPH LAREINA519.COM

3. By this point in the morning, we’re ready for breakfast. Today’s breakie destination: the St Jacobs Farmers’ Market. The world-famous Market is fantastic at this time of year - for autumn vibes, fresh produce, baked goods, and people watching. We find parking in the Market’s massive lots, pick up pastries from A Portuguesa Bakery and butter tarts from Bake my Day, a few new crop apples for good measure, and find a table outside to dig in. Good feelings all around.

4. After getting our fill of the hustle bustle at the Market, something a bit more relaxed is in order. The Cambridge Butterfly Conservatory is the perfect solution. Kelly and I drive from St Jacobs to the Conservatory and enjoy a walk around the place. Experiencing so many tropical plants and colourful butterflies in one place is a blessing, for sure. We agree that the Conservatory is a regional treasure.

5. Next up: lunch. A favourite spot of ours has got to be La Reina in downtown Guelph - the perfect mecca for fantastic Mexican food. Kelly and I manage to grab the last available patio table and start things off right: with a Pineapple Express Margarita for Kelly and a Margarita Clasica for me. For mains, I order a Ceviche del Mercado while Kelly gets the Baja Fish Tacos. Pure bliss.

A ROYAL CITY BROKER AND HER HUBBY SHARE A FANTASTIC AUTUMN SATURDAY DAYTRIPPING IN (AND OUT OF) GUELPH.

SMITH PROPERTY LOOP HIKING TRAIL

COOKS MILL RD AT WATSON RD S, PUSLINCH

6. While an afternoon nap could easily be in order after so much action, we don’t succumb. Instead, Kelly and I drive home, pick up the dogs, Beau and Ellie, and head to the Smith Property Loop Hiking Trail for a good hike. This well-marked 4.3 kilometre loop is fantastic in the fall – with trees turning colours, crispness in the air, and a great view from the top of the trail. Life doesn’t get much better.

FIXED GEAR BREWING

20 ALMA ST S, GUELPH

FIXEDGEARBREWING.COM

7. After the hike, we hop in the car and head straight to Fixed Gear Brewing – a staple of Guelph’s hip Junction neighbourhood. Our mission: to grab some cans for a Sunday afternoon gathering we’ll be having with friends. Kelly chooses a few cans of Breakaway IPA and Dutch Classic Blonde Ale while I make sure we grab some of my fave Fixed Gear brew – the Borraccia Italian Lager. We also chat with Fixed Gear owner Mike, who’s a very dear friend and always up to something.

PAOLA’S FINE CHEESES

1027 GORDON ST, GUELPH PAOLASFINECHEESES.CA

8. Now that we’ve collected beer, all that’s left to grab for our Sunday get together are items for a charcuterie board. For these bits, we book it to Paola’s Fine Cheeses where we settle on hunks of Château de Bourgogne and Red Storm (two of our faves), a mound of thinly sliced prosciutto, and tasty fig spread. These items will pair perfectly with what’s left of the Polestar loaf.

ELORA MILL HOTEL & SPA

77 MILL ST W, ELORA ELORAMILL.CA

MANHATTANS PIZZA BISTRO MUSIC CLUB

951 GORDON ST S, GUELPH MANHATTANS.CA

9. After so much non-stop activity, it’s time for some late afternoon pampering. Our solution: the spa at Elora Mill, of course. We drive through the countryside to what’s been dubbed ‘Canada’s Most Road-trippable Town’, park just across the river from the Mill, and make our way across the walking bridge to our destination. While I’m here for a pedicure, Kelly enjoys a massage. Our sessions are sublime. Having the world-class Mill so close by is a gift.

10. All blissed out and ready for dinner, we drive back to Guelph where we join friends at Manhattans for great food and terrific live jazz. While I make sure our table orders the mussels and Caesar salads, every item on the menu – from the ‘gillespie’ pie (basil pesto, caramelized onions, chicken, spinach, mozzarella, honey) to the ‘house made gnocchi’ (basil oil, ricotta, lemon) – is a winner. We sit back, catch up with each other, eat and drink, enjoy the music, and toast what has been a fantastic day.

After dinner, Kelly and I head back home for a nightcap and bed. It’s been a long – and oh so enjoyable – day in the region.

24

MEET YOUR MAKER

CAFÉ 245 245 Hanlon Creek Blvd GUELPH @ cafe245_

MOST POPULAR SANDWICH? The Cuban (but hard to tell because our menu changes up so much)

ESSENTIAL KITCHEN TOOL?

Connie: Our Rational Oven – it does everything

FAVOURITE PLACE TO GRAB A DRINK?

Michael: The Fat Duck

ANYTHING YOU’D LIKE TO ADD? We do fantastic catering too

THERE’S A BUZZ IN THE AIR ABOUT A NEW-ISH GUELPH CAFÉ THAT’S SERVING UP SERIOUS EATS. LOCATED IN THE HANLON CREEK BUSINESS PARK AND RUN BY CHEF CONNIE (IN THE KITCHEN) AND MICHAEL (FRONT OF HOUSE), CAFÉ TWO FORTY FIVE HAS A MODEST BUT SLEEK VIBE. ITS ROTATING MENU FEATURES GOURMET SANDWICHES, SALADS, BREAKFAST TAKE-AWAYS & MORE. LOOKING FOR A MORNING FIX? TRY THE ‘D’OUGHNUT’ SANDWICH – WITH BACON, BLACK FOREST HAM, FRIED EGG, CHEDDAR, GARLIC AIOLI AND SPINACH ON AN APPLE FRITTER. IN FOR LUNCH? DIG INTO A ‘RISK IT FOR THE BRISKET’ SANDWICH – WITH SMOKED BRISKET, CHEDDAR, HAVARTI, ROASTED SWEET POTATOES, SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS, CARAMELIZED ONIONS, SLAW & BBQ SAUCE. DID I MENTION YOU CAN ORDER ONLINE? WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?

Conversations about homelessness

Conversations about homelessness are hard and uncomfortable. They are also essential. Thanks to The Oak Tree Project we are pleased to share video conversations about homelessness in our community. They connect people with lived experience, business owners, and some of the agencies in the community that support individuals experiencing homelessness.

Learn more and join the conversation.

HomeForGoodGW.ca

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JILL SADLER’S S&V UPTOWN:

A SITE OF LAID BACK SOPHISTICATION

WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

‘I think I’m going to have to come back for a second visit,’ I tell Jill before I take the last bite of beef tartare – with egg yolk jam and pickles, set delicately atop what’s surely the greatest finger of brioche I’ve ever tasted. ‘To do more research,’ I mumble – savouring this bit of culinary delight. While my tastebuds frolic amongst a perfect balance of sweet and savoury, I scan our table for the slim chance there’s a remaining bite of some other dish we’ve been sharing. Maybe some Parisienne Gnocchi (with duck, roasted allium, and baby swiss chard). Or a bit of Braised Pork Ragu (with saffron pasta sheets). Or a forkful of Sweet Corn Risotta (with acquerello rice and chanterelle mushrooms). But alas – every plate’s been wiped clean. ‘Ya, I think you’ll need to get back here,’ Jill grins in response.

‘Besides’, she adds with a laugh, ‘the place is so much better when we’re open.’

It’s a Wednesday early evening in late August, and I’m sitting across the table from Jill Sadler in her bougie Uptown Waterloo restaurant, S&V Uptown. Correction: I’m sitting across from Jill in her closed bougie Uptown restaurant. The place is shuttered on Wednesdays. And Mondays and Tuesdays too, for that matter. ‘Staff shortages,’ Jill tells me with a shrug. Damned pandemic. But at least the empty space offers me the opportunity to chat with Jill about the phenomenal (and phenomenally quick) ascent she’s taken in the restaurant industry without fear of disruption.

Wishful thinking.

Despite the restaurant's being closed, every few minutes (it seems) we’re interrupted by couples and small groups walking in through the unlocked front door – hopeful of a table for dinner. And while at first I wonder why Jill leaves the door unlocked between these unexpected visits, it dawns on me that she welcomes these interruptions as opportunities to connect with these would-be diners: to build rapport, recommend other Uptown dining options, and, ultimately, serve as a consummate host.

‘I never would’ve predicted I’d still be working in restaurants at this stage of my life,’ Jill tells me when she returns to our table after suggesting to a young couple looking for dinner that they try Red House down the street instead. ‘I got into the industry in my late teens, bussing and serving as a way to earn money for school,’ she says. ‘In those days, I remember customers asking me what I wanted to be when I grew up, as though working in food couldn’t possibly be a career.’ And so – for a while, at least – it wasn’t.

‘After graduating,’ Jill goes on, ‘I used my degree in criminology to get a job managing a group home that included looking after about twenty staff. But while I finally had that ‘grown up job,’ there was little pleasure in it for me. When I’d get home from work, I’d shake off the stresses of the day by reading cookbooks or creating unique cocktails or trying new recipes.’ Food offered her escape and comfort, then, as well as a sense of home.

‘When I was a kid,’ she tells me, ‘family time was always structured around food. Both of my parents loved to cook. While my mom was proficient in the kitchen, my dad – who had at one time lived in Germany – was passionate about crafting dishes like rouladen, schnitzel, spaetzle.’ Jill recalls more than a few occasions when she’d wake up in the morning to her dad’s ‘German breakfast’ specialty: bread with liverwurst. ‘It’s probably not what many of the kids in my class were eating for breakfast,’ Jill laughs, ‘but those meals meant the world to me.’

S&V Uptown Culinary Director, Chef Jonathan Gushue, with Head Chef Kris Simmons

While Jill shares with me something of the texture of her early life, S&V Uptown Head Chef Kris Simmons – who cut his teeth in such esteemed area establishments as Langdon Hall, Janet Lynn’s Bistro, and Elora Mill –interrupts us in the best possible way: with dessert. ‘Grilled peaches with vanilla bean, amaretto, and sabayon,’ Kris tells us as he sets the dish down. A perfect choice for this fall season, I think to myself. While I take the liberty of indulging in a first bite – and revel in the magic that is fruit baptized by fire – Jill continues: ‘It wasn’t long into my job at the group home when I realized I wanted back into the industry. Despite its many challenges – the physical demands, mental exhaustion, emotional drain – food has always been home for me.’ And so, within a whirlwind two-week span in 2017, Jill quit her job at the group home, found an available space in Kitchener to open her first place and, with husband Mica, began renovating. ‘Within a month of getting the key,’ Jill reminisces, ‘we were open for business.’

That first restaurant, Swine & Vine, focused on small plates and sharing items. And while it proved to be a great experience and developed a sort of cult following in the region, when the lease came up for renewal Jill knew she wanted to evolve the concept beyond sharing plates to include tasting menus, fullservice dinners, and lots (and lots) of events. Oh, and she needed a new space that could accommodate these changes too. So Jill and Mica looked toward Uptown Waterloo. ‘The Uptown food scene has always been pretty incredible – with such a great variety of destinations,' Jill explains. ‘There’s everything from [the aforementioned] Red House for elegant rustic dishes to Ethel’s for straight up burgers and pitchers; Loloan Lobby Bar for cocktails and sophistication to The Jane Bond for vegetarian and a sweet vibe; and now there’s us too.’ Smack dab in the middle of things. And, since opening in summer 2021, fitting right in.

Located on King Street just down from the busy intersection of King and Erb, the newlynamed S&V Uptown boasts an open concept interior space featuring exposed brick walls, barnboard accents, heavy wooden beams, custom chandeliers, high ceilings, and lots of greenery – a perfect balance of airiness and coziness. ‘We want the space to match the vibe we’re going for,’ Jill tells me, ‘which is all about laid back sophistication.' She knows exactly what she means. 'S&V Uptown is a place where you can expect the highest level of food and service while still feeling comfortable in a nice pair of jeans and ball cap.’ Laid back, then. And sophisticated. I look around the empty space and imagine it filled with patrons – laughing and chatting and enjoying each other’s company. I can picture it in my head, and I'm keen to experience it in person. ‘About that second visit, then,’ I chuckle to Jill. ‘I know just the occasion,’ she replies with a grin.

* * *

It’s a Thursday evening on the first of September, and I’m back at Jill’s restaurant for a second round. (To do more research –remember?) Except this time, the place is filled with diners and there’s a palpable buzz in the air. The occasion: S&V Uptown’s monthly Supper Club, in which S&V Uptown chefs develop uniquely-themed multi-course dinners for thirty patrons who’ve been fortunate enough to snag a ticket. (Visit svuptown.ca and keep your eyes peeled for upcoming dinner club events; they sell out fast.) For this Supper Club installment, the kitchen is being led by none other than Chef Jonathan Gushue – of Langdon Hall, The Berlin, Fogo Island Inn, Elora Mill & Spa, and, currently, S&V Uptown where Jonathan serves as Culinary Director. ‘It’s still sometimes hard to believe,’ Jill exclaims to me when I ask about how she managed to convince such a celebrated chef to work at her relatively upstart restaurant. ‘We see eye to eye about so many things,’ she says, ‘and he’s been an extraordinary teacher to our entire team.’

Jill Sadler

A team that’s pretty stacked – with or without Chef Gushue. There’s Head Chef Kris and the kitchen team whose unbelievable cooking skills I’ve already discussed. And the front of house team – a fantastic group of dedicated pros whose enthusiasm for proficient service is evident from beginning to end of my Supper Club experience. ‘Since the pandemic it’s been almost impossible to find good cooks and servers,’ Jill tells me when I comment on her crew. ‘I’m grateful every day for the solid team we’ve got here,’ she adds. And then there’s Aaron Hatchell. Former Head Bartender at Wilks’ Bar at Langdon Hall, Aaron’s a tour de force at S&V – developing the place’s impressive cocktail program, teaching cocktail classes (visit the restaurant’s website for upcoming classes), and serving as Jill’s creative partner-in-crime.

Indeed, since joining forces in 2021 Jill and Aaron have combined their creative resources and worked hard to realize the vision of the restaurant. One of Jill’s favourites among the

things they’ve collaborated on are cocktail menus that double as maps of the region, for example, showcasing drinks inspired by twenty area businesses featured on the map. Other cocktail menus have been designed as decks of oracle cards. Most recently, the menus have taken the form of complete food and drink magazines featuring articles, recipes, and more. ‘We’re always trying to think outside the proverbial box,’ Jill remarks. ‘Our menus are a creative outlet, as are our regular cocktail classes. We also host classes in cooking and baking, which have been well-received, and even turn the kitchen into a sort of commercial bakery where customers can purchase loaves of sourdough – on their own or paired with a bottle of wine.’ These inventive projects serve to animate the space and keep S&V Uptown in people’s minds.

As we bring our focused conversation to an end, Jill shows me to my Supper Club table, where she introduces me to her husband Mica and a handful of their friends. I take a

Head Chef Simmons

seat, poised for adventure as Jill and Chef Jonathan introduce the night’s theme: ‘Ocean Bounty: Newfoundland & Labrador.’ For the next three hours I enjoy what can only be described as a mindblowing culinary escapade. Course after course arrives, each one delivered like an episode of a sort of love letter from Jonathan to his east coast roots. There’s Jarred Cod (with mussel duxelles and parsley sauce); Butter Poached Snow Crab (with chanterelles and sea lettuce soup); Poached Lobster (with poached beets, smoked trout roe and pork consummé); and Lamb Loin (with sea baked turnip, sea asparagus and sauce charcuterie). All paired, of course, with fine wines curated by Aaron & Jill. And, for dessert: blueberries with dulse, dark rum, and white chocolate; hay ice cream with ginger marmalade; and partridgeberry steamed pudding and custard. I'm exuberant and hugely satisfied by the mere recitation of this bounty.

As Supper Club winds down, and Jill and Chef Jonathan give their last instructive and enticing commentaries to this intimate gathering, I can’t help but be amazed by Jill’s vision come to life. Far from existing merely as a restaurant, S&V Uptown is an experience: a place of comfort and pleasure and satisfaction. This is indeed a place that Jill can call home – all the while creating a very special rendition of home for her staff and guests. And for me, of course.

I'm looking forward to my third visit. But not for research, this time.

UPTOWN 15 KING ST N, WATERLOO svuptown.ca

S&V

MAJESTIC WATER BUFFALO

40

When Karen Mansfield was traveling through parts of southeast Asia almost a decade ago, she couldn’t help but notice all the water buffalo dotting the landscape. These majestic beasts, domesticated three thousand years earlier than cattle, were raised and bred on the other side of the world for draft power, milk products, and meat. Fast forward to today, and Karen – along with Andy Fraser –can be found raising and breeding their own small herd of water buffalo on their ninetyseven acre farm, Majestic Water Buffalo, outside the town of Erin.

‘Our breed of water buffalo actually has its roots in Italy,’ Karen tells me as she feeds a two-year-old cow an apple at the farm. ‘They’re called Italian Mediterranean Buffalo and most commonly raised and bred for their milk –which is used to make buffalo mozzarella, burrata, ricotta, and more.’ She continues: ‘While we do sell buffalo dairy products at our farm store [including spectacular water buffalo ice cream], we raise and breed our herd for meat.’

Roasts. Ribeye and sirloin steaks. Ground meat. Tenderloin medallions. The cuts are diverse and similar in taste to beef – although slightly sweeter. ‘You can substitute buffalo meat for beef in any recipe,' Karen assures me. 'And what’s so great is that it’s lean, low in fat and cholesterol, and easy to digest.’

Tempted to give it a try? Swing by the farm shop (Fri-Sun 10-5 or by appt); stop by the Elora, Guelph, and Rockwood farmers’ markets; visit Fraberts (Fergus), Top Market Family Farms (Preston), and more; or order online at majesticwaterbuffalo.ca.

Like so many other remarkable farms and food businesses that dot Guelph and Wellington County, Majestic Water Buffalo is a partner of Taste Real – a County of Wellington program that promotes local food and facilitates valuable connections among food businesses, consumers, craftspeople, and farmers alike. That includes farmers like Karen Mansfield and Andy Fraser, whose enterprise brings unique local food to our lives. Learn more at majesticwaterbuffalo.ca and tastereal.ca

ERIN

WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

RECIPE

WATER BUFFALO SHORT RIBS BY CHEF SCOTT YATES

INGREDIENTS:

2-4 water buffalo short ribs

RUB

¼ cup canola oil

1 tbsp Montreal steak spice

1 tsp garlic powder

1 tsp onion powder

1 tsp dried thyme

1 tbsp kosher salt

½ tsp ground pepper

ACCOMPANIMENTS

2 cups beef stock

½ cup BBQ sauce

¼ cup maple syrup

2 tbsp tomato paste

5 sprigs fresh thyme

4 sprigs fresh rosemary

1 tbsp kosher salt

½ tsp fresh ground pepper

1 cup red wine (Ontario Pinot Noir)

3 carrots (chopped)

2 medium onions (chopped)

3 stalks celery (chopped)

1 head of garlic

salt & pepper to taste

TOP TEN RURAL

WORTH A TRIP

BAKERIES

1. Small-town charm and incredible baking await at Holtom’s Bakery in beautiful downtown Erin

2. Located just outside of Guelph, Mosborough Country Market’s bakery is famous for pies, buns and tarts

3. Magpie’s Bakery in downtown Mount Forest offers gourmet doughnuts that are a must-try

4. For the most wonderful sourdough bread, check out the Elora Bread Trading Company along the downtown strip in Elora

METHOD:

Serves 3-4 people (½ hr prep/ 4-6 hrs cook time)

1. Place rub all over meat. In hot pan, sear off all sides of each rib until it has nice caramelization or color.

2. Mix all liquids & seasonings (BBQ sauce, syrup, paste & wine) together. Whisk until smooth.

3. Place all veg (onion, carrots, celery, garlic) into large crock pot, roasting pan, or dutch oven.

4. Lay seared short ribs on top (bone resting on the veg). Add fresh herbs around it. Liquid should just cover ribs. If not, add a touch more stock or water.

5. Place lid on or top with foil to seal.

6. Place in 300F oven for 6-8 hours or, if it’s an electric crock, start on high for an hour then switch to low for rest of the time.

Pull meat out after allotted time and make sure it’s ready to fall off the bone. Strain the braising liquid and place it in a pot and back on the heat to simmer. Let it reduce for about half an hour, keeping the ribs aside, covered and warm. As the liquid is reducing, take a ladle and slowly skim top of the sauce to remove any grease. It may take a few times.Then, mix 3 tbsp of cornstarch and 3 tbsp cold water to make a little slurry. Add to simmering liquid and whisk. It will thicken the sauce. Taste and serve with your favorite vegetables and starch –pouring some of the jus over top.

5. Harriston Bakery is a local favourite for bread, muffins, pies, doughnuts and more

6. Thatcher Farms’ Butcher Shop and Bakery serve up sausage rolls, tarts and cookies alongside a vast assortment of local foods

7. Looking for amazing butter tarts, pies and desserts? Then head to Jess For You Café and Baked Goods in Hillsburgh

8. Pick up incredible pies and butter tarts at Misty Meadows Country Market in Conn

9.

Fergie’s Fine Foods in downtown Fergus features tasty take-home meals, desserts and baked goods

10. HomeStyle Flavours in Teviotdale is famous for pies, preserves, delicious sandwiches and more

For more information, see tastereal.ca

Monica Mazun | Monica.Mazun@RichardsonWealth.com

BY MONICA MAZUN

Navigating the markets has never been an easy feat, even in the most optimistic times. But when you have to contend with unprecedented macroeconomic challenges, and 24/7 media channels broadcasting click-bait headlines about economic forecasts, planning a course gets even more overwhelming.

We’ve been hearing all the buzz words for months: inflation, shrinkflation (less air and more ketchup chips in my bag, please), recession, volatile markets, and more. How do these affect the average investor? What would another interest rate hike mean? Have the markets finally hit bottom? The apparent chaos can be overwhelming, and even cause panic. You should always follow your gut about how to respond, but our advice is typically to not make rash decisions; to keep calm and carry on – but with a watchful eye.

Sound decision-making in stressful times comes down to what you’re looking for as an investor, and what you’re comfortable with. On the positive side, inflation already seems to have peaked and is slowly coming down. As

It's times like these when it makes the most sense to work with a trusted investment advisor with the experience, market insights, and resources to build a solid investment strategy with you and make sound recommendations when things get complicated. For example, using alternative investments to protect against the downside can really make a difference in a portfolio’s returns during trying times.

History has taught us that stock markets are cyclical. There will be highs, and there will be lows. Advisors can’t predict what the future holds but finding someone with a proven process to assist you in building a more bullet-proof strategy helps you remain confident that your investments are achieving what you want – in good times and in tougher times, too.

We can’t do much about that smaller bag of chips, though.

All material has been prepared by Monica Mazun, who is an Associate Investment Advisor with the Mactaggart Hryn Team at Richardson Wealth Limited. The opinions expressed in this report are the opinions of the author and readers should not assume they reflect the opinions

BEYOND THE FAMILIAR: GETTING A TASTE FOR #DTK’S UNCUT CULINARY GEMS

PREAMBLE

& PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

WHEN IT COMES TO DINING OUT IN THE REGION, WE’RE ALL TOO FAMILIAR WITH THE USUAL SUSPECTS. YOU KNOW THE ONES: THOSE HIP AND SHINY CULINARY DESTINATIONS THAT ARE BUSY SLINGING JUICY SMASH BURGERS, OR SERVING KILLER TRUCKER FRIES, OR SMOKING PHENOMENAL BARBECUE, OR WOOD-FIRING PIZZAS – ALL PAIRED WITH THE LATEST CRAFT BEER RELEASE, OR FUNKIEST CIDER, OR FLASHIEST COCKTAIL. THESE ARE OUR REGION’S BASTIONS OF CULINARY COOL, TRAILBLAZERS OF GOOD TASTE, MECCAS OF INSTAGRAMABLE DELIGHT. WE’RE BIG FANS, TO BE SURE. AND, JUDGING BY THE READING MATERIAL YOU’RE CLUTCHING IN YOUR MITTS, YOU PROBABLY ARE TOO. WHILE THERE’S CERTAINLY COMFORT AND JOY IN THE FAMILIAR, THERE’S A CERTAIN TITILLATING DELIGHT IN EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY TOO – OF THOSE ‘AROUND THE CORNER’ SPOTS, ‘HOLE IN THE WALL’ MARVELS, ‘BLINK AND YOU’LL MISS IT’ GEMS.

WITH THIS IN MIND, IN EARLY SEPTEMBER THE TOQUE TEAM WENT SEARCHING IN DOWNTOWN KITCHENER FOR A HANDFUL OF FOOD SPOTS THAT EXIST (AND SUCCEED) BEYOND THE FAMILIAR – #DTK’S UNCUT GEMS. A HASTY MARKET WITH A FULL-SERVICE SHAWARMA BUFFET. A WHOLESALE WAREHOUSE WITH A FANTASTIC KABAB SPOT TUCKED IN THE BACK. A NONDESCRIPT STOREFRONT SERVING KILLER BANH MI SANDWICHES. A BARE BONES SUSHI SPOT WITH A ‘BY THE PIECE’ À LA CARTE MENU. A RE-PURPOSED RESIDENTIAL HOME SLINGING MOUTH-WATERING BIRRIA TACOS. ALL FANTASTIC. ALL WORTH A VISIT – AND A TASTE. JOIN US FOR A TOUR.

THE HUMBLE LOTUS

PUPUSERIA LATINOS Tacos Birria (beef tacos) & Plantain w/ sour cream. Pairs nicely with a bottle of lime Jarritos

IT’S TIME FOR MEN TO ADDRESS MENTAL HEALTH

One million Canadian men suffer from major depressive disorder. Three of every four completed suicides in Canada are by men. One third of Canadian men worry that talking about mental health at work could put their job at risk.

Men are just as likely as women to have mental health issues yet are far less likely to seek help. Men are more likely to believe that mental health services are difficult to access, ineffective and invasive.

At Cogent, Ontario’s new mental health clinic focussed on supporting men, we’re changing that.

It’s time for a new mental health experience

Cogent provides discreet, professional psychological assessment and evidence-based psychotherapy delivered by regulated health professionals.

Access is straightforward with online appointment booking and no wait lists. We offer daytime, evening and weekend appointments, and free initial consultations. We serve all of Ontario via secure virtual sessions and in-person sessions in our Guelph office. Psychological Services are covered by most extended health benefits plans.

It’s time.

NOT YOUR MOTHER’S MARKET:

DIVING INTO THE ‘HARVEST HOEDOWN’ AT ST JACOBS FARMERS’ MARKET

PREAMBLE & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

‘This is like a scene out of ‘Yellowstone’,’ I exclaim to my TOQUE Partner, Cai Sepulis, as we wade through the crowd to get a better look. When we get closer to the action the sea of bodies parts – revealing a brilliant tableau that really could have come straight out of the popular cowboy-themed Paramount Network show or, possibly, the town of Stars Hollow.

To our left a large group of people done up in blue jeans, flannel shirts, and ten-gallon hats – cups of beer and cider in hand – laugh and joke and jostle. To our right, a sprightly milliner, dressed in a brown suede jacket decked out with foot-long tassels, models one of her fantastic hand-crafted cowboy hats to a couple of potential clients. In the background, the twangy sounds of a three-piece country band ring out above the din. And, straight ahead, what everyone has gathered around to witness: a valiant member of the crowd riding a large spinning, bucking, gyrating mechanical bull that – after an exciting (albeit short) ride – casts its human cargo onto the cushioned ground.

‘This is definitely a vibe,’ Cai almost gasps –mouth agape at all the magnificent sights and sounds.

It's Friday night, late September, and Cai and I are attending the ‘Harvest Hoedown’ – a special evening event hosted by the St Jacobs Farmers’ Market. Folks have come to enjoy everything from live music and line dancing to craft beer and food vendors. But there's more: fire pits and harvest arrangements, picnic areas and rodeo clowns, and a fantastic array of vendors you wouldn’t usually find on a regular Market day. And also, of course, the aforementioned mechanical bull. It’s an ambitious affair. And – based on the massive turnout and countless smiles on folks’ faces –a successful one, too.

For most of us the St Jacobs Farmers’ Market is something to do on Thursday or Saturday mornings: a destination for hot cider and doughy apple fritters and fresh meat and produce and a vast array of craft and antique and artisan vendors. Events like the ‘Harvest Hoedown’ and the upcoming Sip and Shop Holiday Night Markets (visit stjacobsmarket. com for info) are turning on its head this broadly-held conception of what the Market is. It’s a brilliant strategy. But don’t take my word for it.

Make the trip out to the Market District and take a look for yourself.

(facing page)

Live country music onstage at the Market’s Main Courtyard

(this page, top to bottom)

• A lil’ one getting rowdy on the mechanical bull

• Sampling cider & spirits at the Spy Cider House & Distillery booth

Georgia of Off The Block with some of her custom handmade hats

A blooming onion from The Colossal Onion inside Peddlers Village

A welcoming rodeo clown greeting crowds at the front gates

(facing page, clockwise from top left)

• Pints are pouring at the TWB Brewing stand

• Autumnal flourishes outside the Market Tent

• Enjoying food & drink in the Market’s Main Courtyard

(this page, top to bottom)

• Belt buckles galore inside the Market Building

• A box of fritters from The Fritter Co inside the Market Building

• One of the many craft booths set up in the Market grounds

(facing page, clockwise from top left)

• More autumnal flourishes at the Main Courtyard

• Cold cans of Stockyards Brewing suds

• Dancing to live country in the Main Courtyard

• Cozying up at the firepits in the Main Courtyard

(this page)

• The Dark Horse Estate Winery trailer

• A group of friends pose in front of an Instagrammable autumnal display

ST JACOB'S FARMERS' MARKET

878 WEBER ST N, WOOLWICH, ON stjacobsmarket.com

A REGIONAL GEM: GETTING ACQUAINTED WITH THE CANADIAN CLAY & GLASS GALLERY

WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

‘I’ve got to be honest with you,’ I whisper to Denis with some trepidation as he leads me into the main gallery space, ‘I’ve never actually been here before.’ Even as the confession trickles from my lips, I’m not sure why I feel the need to tell him. There are lots of places I’ve written about after only one visit. Restaurants. Breweries. Entire neighbourhoods. And yet here, at The Canadian Clay & Glass Gallery in Uptown Waterloo, walking with the Gallery’s Executive Director and Chief Curator, Denis Longchamps, I feel compelled to divulge this (surely) innocuous transgression.

Maybe it’s because from a young age I was taught that a city tour (whether in Europe, or the States, or closer to home) is never complete without a museum or gallery visit. Maybe it’s because this place, with its high ceilings and poured concrete walls, stained

glass and natural light, bears more than a fleeting resemblance to a medieval cathedral – that is, to a literal place of confession. And maybe, just maybe, it’s because this gallery –planted firmly in the heart of Uptown Waterloo, along the edge of Waterloo Park – has been in my mind ever since my dad, a retired Film Studies and English Lit prof, championed this ambitious project back when it was being imagined. Whatever the case, the words are out. And, lucky for me, Denis is the forgiving type.

‘You aren’t the only one,’ Denis chuckles through a distinctly Quebecois accent. ‘When I took over as Executive Director, I heard from many folks that they didn’t even know we existed. Indeed, at least three individuals I spoke with thought the Gallery was a high school.’ He pauses for a second, pondering his next words, before uttering them with

WATERLOO

The Gallery shop

67 Gallery Executive Director & Chief Curator Denis Longchamps

Selections from the Gallery’s Permanent Collection

certainty: ‘I’m here to change all that.’ Indeed, he is – and has been.

As we enter the main gallery – a glorious open space with sloped wood-slatted ceiling, large windows and a fantastic array of rose window stained glass on display – Denis elaborates: ‘My primary mission is to re-introduce the Gallery to our community: to create a groundswell of excitement about the place.’ He continues: ‘It’s not enough that the Gallery is free to visit. Instead, there should be no confusion about the fact that this is an hospitable place – an entertaining and cultural destination that individuals, friends, and families think about when they’re deciding what to take in around the region.’

And how does one manage this re-introduction?

‘In small steps,’ Denis replies, unreservedly optimistic. 'And from day one.' Indeed, during the very first week that Denis began his job at the Gallery, he installed, in the otherwise empty front foyer, children’s art tables generously equipped with paper and colouring tools. ‘The very day we set up the tables,’ Denis recalls, ‘there was a line of kids waiting to get creative at them.’ A line of future artists, visitors, collectors, donors. At around the same time, Denis set up a community gallery in the main foyer and moved the staffed front desk – at the time directly facing the main entrance – off to the side of the foyer space. ‘I wanted it to be less imposing – and more welcoming.’ Mission accomplished, then.

Another evolution of the space that Denis and his fantastic staff (whom he does not stop lauding throughout the length of my visit) have accomplished is the Gallery shop. Truly, this 'gift shop' full of hand-made glass and pottery and jewelry is a gem. In fact, understandably, much focus has been placed on transforming this part of the Gallery into a destination unto itself. As Denis leads me into the shop space, I can’t help but look to buy birthday and holiday gifts for friends and family. My gaze falls onto a modernlooking stained glass panel by Cambridge artist Gord Brown – the perfect piece for any window

in my brother’s west end Toronto semi. Next I lust after an earth-toned vase (with miniature ceramic birds perched on the lid) by Quebec artist José Drouin – something I know my fiancé, Liz, would love. And it doesn’t take long before I lose myself in a minimalist pastel ceramic serving platter by Nova Scotian artist, Toni Losey – an ideal candidate for a Christmas gift for my mom. The place is magical, its shelves of tantalizing merchandise seemingly endless. Filled with fantastic examples of clay, and glass, and more – a wide range of gorgeous decorative and functional pieces. So worth a visit – quite apart from a visit to any of the Gallery's fantastic and ever-changing exhibitions.

And Denis’ expressed urge to make the entire place more accessible hasn’t been limited to ‘front of house’ improvements, either. Indeed, many of his first months on the job he spent toiling on the second floor – organizing the Gallery's archives to make things easier for visiting researchers. ‘When I first arrived,’ Denis tells me, ‘the Gallery’s archival materials –documents, photographs, and other ephemera from artists whom worked in ceramics, glass, and copper enameling – were strewn here, there, and everywhere.’ He chuckles: 'I even found boxes of materials in one of the broom closets.’ And so, with help from staff, Denis consolidated and organized the materials into a wonderful upstairs room: the Ann Roberts Archival Centre. (Another confession: callow youth that I was during my first year in Fine Arts at Waterloo, I paid little attention to the stunning achievements of Ann Roberts, who I was fortunate to have as my studio prof.) Adjacent to the Ann Roberts Archival Centre Denis and his staff have organized and refined the resource-filled Sinclair Family Library, comprised of books, exhibition catalogues, and periodicals related to ceramics, glass, and copper enameling locally, nationally, and internationally.

‘Resurrecting the Archival Centre and Family Library have been especially meaningful acts for me,' Denis observes. 'Both Ann Roberts and the Sinclair family have been important

Gallery Curator Peter Flannery

founders and donors of the Gallery. Making sure that their legacy is preserved here is so utterly important as we continue to grow this place.’ Indeed, nurturing relationships with committed supporters – as well as with the larger community – has become especially important during the COVID era, when so many arts and culture institutions have registered a need for all the help they can get.

With this in mind, I ask Denis about how the pandemic affected the Gallery. ‘We actually used the lockdowns and closures as an opportunity,’ he tells me. My curiosity is piqued. He continues: ‘Lockdowns meant that the bread-and-butter activity of the Gallery –hosting visitors in the exhibits – completely halted. We knew that if we wanted to continue, and build upon, any sort of community outreach, we’d have to look toward other avenues. And so we did.’ Soon after COVID forced the Gallery to shut down, Denis and his staff began creating DIY pottery kits (including clay, underglaze, tools, and more) that were complemented by instructional online videos where folks could learn a technique and complete a project from their homes.

‘Once these projects – mugs, charcuterie plates, what have you – were complete,’ Denis tells me, ‘participants could drop them off at the Gallery where they would be fired and made ready for pick-up.’ This initiative was wildly successful. ‘Soon after,’ Denis goes on, ‘we received funding from Toyota Motor Manufacturing Canada and the Grand River Rotary Club to make available three hundred free drawing kits for kids.’ Another success. And it didn't end there. When pandemic lockdowns ended, Denis and his staff kept making their popular pottery kits available – for an affordable price. They even came up with a ‘Date Night @ Home Kit’ which includes two kiln-fired clay kits (including clay, underglaze, and basic tools) and a bottle of wine. Fantastic.

And there's more. Once pandemic lockdowns ended, the Gallery leaned into the public’s interest in crafting their own pottery by offering a number of classes and workshops in-house. These continue to be offered. Every Saturday and Sunday from October until June, for instance, the Gallery host ‘Claytime’ – an all-ages beginner’s pottery workshop. It also hosts stained glass workshops, vase-making classes, date night pottery-making events, glass ornament-making sessions, and more. The staff even host workshops that engage with current exhibitions and the permanent collection where instructors talk about artists’ pieces on display while teaching the specific techniques the artists used. (Schedules are kept updated at theclayandglass.ca – go take a look.) ‘We even rent out our classroom for bachelorette parties, friends’ get togethers – the options are almost endless,’ Denis tells me excitedly. Community engagement at its most robust.

At this point in our conversation, my head is reeling at all the terrific initiatives the Gallery offers. The shop. Archives. Library. Classes and workshops. And Denis hasn’t even begun to tell me about the place’s permanent collection – comprised of nearly one thousand pieces, including mostly contemporary works in ceramic, glass, and copper enameling by Canadian artists. But perhaps this will have to wait for another day. Another visit. Another exploration of this extraordinary regional gem.

As Denis walks me back to the main entrance and bids me adieu, I still feel a little guilty that, after so many years, this has been my first trip to the Gallery. It certainly won’t be my last.

CANADIAN CLAY AND GLASS GALLERY 25 CAROLINE ST N, WATERLOO theclayandglass.ca

THREE’S COMPANY: DIVING IN TO KITCHENER’S COLOURFUL BREWERY SCENE

WORDS

BY

DANI

KUEPFER; PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

SURE, SUMMER’S OVER – THE WARM PATIO NIGHTS ARE BEHIND US, THE LONG WEEKENDS SQUEEZED OF THEIR JUICE, THE BLOOMIN’ ONIONS CONSUMED AND REGRETTED – BUT THAT’S NOT TO SAY WE’RE DONE EXPLORING THE REGION.

WINDOWS-DOWN DAY TRIPS BECOME PHOEBE BRIDGERS-FUELED DRIVES, AND I’M NOT READY TO GO HOME YET. I’M LOOKING FOR A COZY PLACE WHERE I CAN TUCK INTO A TASTY PINT AND, LUCKY FOR US, WE’VE GOT A FEW SWEET SPOTS CLOSE TO HOME.

SHORT FINGER BREWING CO

20 HURST AVENUE, KITCHENER

@SHORTFINGERBREWING

Right off the Iron Horse Trail, Short Finger Brewing Co (SFBC) holds its ground in an industrial building on the outskirts of downtown Kitchener. It’s a moody late summer day and I stroll past a few folks on the unpretentious patio, through the open garage door into what is a pretty massive space and, impressively, it’s fully utilized.

I wander past a pop-up bakery set up by neighbours after they were rained out of a local market (another reason to keep an eye on Short Finger's social media, if dad jokes and dorky puns aren’t reason enough). Inside the towering space, rows of bins and fridges fill out the brewing supply shop – a sort of bulk-barnslash-toy-store for home brewers. Up a set of stairs is an uncomplicated bottle shop and tap room space filled with a tight selection of unquestionably killer beers.

Kitchener’s only sci-fi punk brewery (a sought-after title proudly clinched by the folks at Short Finger) frequently doubles down on their impressive space, hosting events like dog talent shows, Golden Girlsinspired beer tours, and, of course, punk shows. ‘We’re not everyone’s cup of tea,’ shrugs Rob Hern, the mastermind behind the puns, as well as head brewer and owner of SFBC, ‘but those who do visit usually get our vibe pretty quickly.’

That’s the great thing about Short Finger: they’re not cranking out colossal amounts of beer to be gobbled up by the masses. Instead, you’ll find uncommon yet

accessible styles like ‘Katharine the Mild’, a malty, low ABV dream that’s perfect for an afternoon pint in the tap room’s old leather armchairs.

The real gold, though, as evidenced by the dozens of barrels stacked in rows and filling the brewery space to the far corners, is the mixed fermentation brews. Funky, tasty, tart ales, aged in a variety of barrel and fresh ingredient combinations, like ‘Ain’t No Sunshine’, a peach cobbler-inspired sour matured in whiskey barrels with peaches, vanilla, and cinnamon.

‘Is anyone else aging beer in gin barrels?’, I prod, eyeing a bottle of golden ale with chamomile, lavender, and beets, aged – Rob informs me – in the spunky, spicy oak barrels that previously held gin from our friends at Willibald. ‘No,’ he muses, ‘not around here, anyways.’

While the craft beer scene feels at times like a revolving door of trends, Rob is out here brewing what he loves, experimenting with new ideas, and making brewing accessible to anyone with a similar thirst for cool beers. It’s a special thing and I’m certainly not the first to take notice. A dedicated following from across Ontario shows that if you fly your flag, your people will find you. And when they find you, you can bet there’ll be a few pints to share.

DON’T SLEEP ON

Lando: SFBC’s darling, a mixed-ferment sour saison available in ever-evolving varieties. Grab a pint to sip and as many bottles as you can carry home.

TOGETHER WE’RE BITTER CO-OP BREWING

1-300 MILL STREET, KITCHENER

@TWBCOOP

I love a good hodgepodge – a non-intuitive coming together of different pieces that, as a complete thing, just works. It’s what makes potlucks so great (six dips and a shrimp ring, baby). And that ‘more than the sum of its parts’ outlook is where TWB thrives.

Together We’re Bitter is an owner-operated, democratically-run microbrewery specializing in bringing the community together in a really brew-tiful way. (Yea, I said it.) Cranking out collab after collab on their brewing setup, the folks at TWB are building roots in the region beyond the food and bev world.

‘I think people seek us out when they have weird ideas,’ co-owner Amanda tells me across the gathering table that serves as the heart of the taproom. The table is plastered with beer labels that corroborate her story: collabs with the local Hydrocut trail network, DTK’s AOK beer bar/arcade, and London Brewing (Ontario’s only other co-operative brewery), to name a few. During my short visit, chefs from two local restaurants, Wooden Boat Food Company and Lancaster Smokehouse, drop by about projects they’re working on with the TWB team.

As the Ontario craft beer scene comes to a saturation point, and many breweries start to diversify, I’m drawn to TWB’s against-the-grain ethos. There’s something so delightfully organic about the way they operate: being open to new ideas, pulling from a variety of skill sets

DON’T SLEEP ON

Sunny autumn afternoons on the patio – bring the dog, the kids and a blanket, and cozy up with a couple flights while enjoying the last sips of warm weather.

and points of view, and bringing unexpected products and experiences to the community as a result.

TWB’s origin story is unsurprisingly similar to their current-day projects: starting with a bold idea, a series of invitations, and plenty of conversation. They found and retrofitted a space (their current location, in the heart of the Courtland-Mill neighbourhood) and got their hands on a second-hand brewing setup they nicknamed Sputnik, originally from a brewery in Croatia, that looks like the kind of equipment one might use in preparation for a long journey into space.

I’m fascinated by the co-operative model, and coowner Alex is the perfect person to indulge my curiosity about it (she’s actively involved with a variety of local businesses looking to bring the co-op model to their own ventures). The brewery in this model is run by a small group of local owner-operators, big decisions are made by an elected board, and an owner onboarding track is offered to new employees who want to buy in. The TWB team pride themselves on offering a living wage with career growth and skills acquisition at the centre of their vision. ‘This isn’t just a job; I’ve built a career here,’ chimes Amanda, one of TWB’s newest owners.

The story of TWB is one that rewrites the rules, keeping money in the local economy while offering a gathering space to the community at the same time.

‘Most things you can just figure out for yourselves,’ Alex tells me, with the nonchalance of someone who built a brewery from scratch with a few colleagues, some great ideas, and a whole lot of passion. I can only imagine.

COUNTERPOINT BREWING CO

4-935 FREDERICK STREET, KITCHENER

@COUNTERPOINTBREWINGCO

It’s a sunny September afternoon when I saunter into Counterpoint Brewing, a modest storefront sandwiched between assorted businesses, differentiated by the cozy block of picnic tables out front. The straightforward tap room – a handcrafted wood bar, seating and standing room for a few dozen folks, the wall of windows filling the space with afternoon sun – feels comfortable and familiar. And oh so stylish.

Indeed, every detail of the tap room seems to hit the right aesthetic notes. The white walls. Plants on every table and everywhere else, too. Geometric-shaped gold light fixtures. And, especially, the front of bar ‘accent wall’ featuring chevron-shaped wood bits painted teal, hot pink, and acquamarine. Indeed, this neon ‘ode to the eighties’ palette even extends to the place’s tasty-looking beer menu boards, whose chalk script is all pinks and teals and everything wonderful. Clean. Minimalist. Lovely.

‘Want a pint?’, owner/brewer Graeme Kobayashi snaps me out of my blissful reverie. I eye the lineup – a respectable six taps, with a punchy and inviting selection. A ruby-hued sorrel sour (brewed with Chef Teneile of Nyam for their Emancipation Day bash). A low ABV pale ale with a big dose of Amarillo – the sort of afternoon crusher I would lean to for a few, if I weren’t here on business, of course. A big West Coast IPA, another collab with local designer Jon Johnson of BRFC. In the end, I’m pulled towards a Belgian Stout. It’s got the satisfying roasty-ness that I chase as the days cool down, with a distinct flush of baking spice and a face-warming booze that feels like the visceral heat of embarrassment after learning a lesson you know you

ought already to have learnt. Introspection aside, it’s a tasty pint that makes the leap from summer to fall not so bad at all.

Anyways, enough about me. On the other side of the bar is Graeme, who opened Counterpoint just three and a half years ago, in that time weathering a storm or two and carving out a sweet little spot for the brewery in the KW community, as evidenced by the long list of collabs and the steady stream of regulars popping through the door.

Wide open from the taproom is the brewhouse, and when we turn the corner I’m surprised by the scale of their setup. Maxing out at three hundred litres (that’s roughly six hundred pints), Counterpoint is truly cranking out all batch, small batch. (Another benefit of their modest size: Counterpoint’s brewing operation is fully net-zero, repurposing water used by the heat exchanger for reduced waste, and offsetting use via their partnership with Tree Canada.)

Counterpoint offers a reliable lineup of drinkable styles, with the specific brews themselves swapping out on a weekly basis. Always something fresh and always something you’ll love, it’s the perfect spot for a quick pint while you're out running errands or on your way home from work. Throw in a food pop-up and some live music here and there, and you’ve found your new watering hole.

DON’T SLEEP ON

BYO Takeout – my recommendation: a pint of Treetop IPA and birria tacos from America Latina Grocery across the street.

ANATOMY OF A BRAND:

Cox Creek Cellars

COXCREEKCELLARS.ON.CA, DESIGNER: CAI SEPULIS, TOQUE LTD

ESTD 1998

ESTD 1998

WITH ACRES OF VINEYARDS AND ORCHARDS, AND WITH DECADES OF WINE-MAKING EXPERTISE, COX CREEK CELLARS IS A LOCAL TREASURE AND ONE OF THE REGION’S BEST KEPT SECRETS AS AN EVENT VENUE AND LOCAL WINERY. WHEN COX CREEK LOOKED TO US TO RE-BRAND, WE DECIDED TO DRAW OUT THE RUSTIC AND HANDS-ON NATURE OF THE FARM. DIRT. GRIT. HARD WORK. PLAYING WITH LANGUAGE, TYPE-FACE, AND IMAGERY, WE CREATED BADGE-LIKE EMBLEMS WITH A TOUCH OF COLOUR TO EVOKE EVERYONE’S LOVE OF THE OUTDOORS, AND THE JOY OF DAYS SPENT AT A CAMP OR ON THE FARM.

FINAL LOGOS

Table’s set!

'We eat with our eyes first,' Chef Giada De Laurentiis once declared. We know this to be true – and so does the team at Karger. That's why they offer extraordinary dinner sets handmade in Portugal, vintage dough bowls found in India, Lake Huron driftwood tablescapes crafted in Kitchener, distinctive charcuterie boards made locally, and everything natural and creative to please your senses. Experience what this downtown destination has to offer and you’ll have a craving to host that next dinner party. Visit Karger in person, or online at kargerlife.com

Rare black clay platter, handcrafted in India

Hand-sculpted birds on Lake Huron driftwood, crafted locally

Molinillo, or hot chocolate frother, carved in Central America

Reclaimed dough bowl, crafted long ago in India

Black grain dinnerware, handmade in Portugal

Charcuterie board, made locally

Blue glass tumblers, handcrafted in Morocco

PEOPLE SAY

First, our home needs changed. Then, the market changed.

Now, we’re bringing change to the industry.

Home Group Realty has partnered with Keller Williams to take our team of educated, passionate & collaborative REALTORS® to the next level.

“YOU’VE CHANGED” WE SAY “THANK YOU”

A FISTFUL OF FLAVOUR:

SHINING A LIGHT ON FIVE OF DOWNTOWN GUELPH’S FOODIE FAVOURITES

PREAMBLE & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

I’VE CALLED DOWNTOWN GUELPH HOME FOR ALMOST TWO DECADES NOW. MOVED HERE FROM KITCHENER FOR A PHD AND – LIKE SO MANY OTHER ROYAL CITY TRANSPLANTS – STAYED TO BUILD A LIFE. MY HOUSE IS IN THE CORE, AS IS MY OFFICE. I’M A FIVE-MINUTE WALK TO THE TRAIN STATION, A SEVEN-MINUTE WALK TO THE SLEEMAN CENTRE, A NINE-MINUTE WALK TO THE NEAREST CRAFT BREWERY, AND TEN MINUTES BY FOOT TO A MULTITUDE OF MAGNIFICENT FOODIE DESTINATIONS.

INDIE CAFÉS. A REVITALIZED FARMERS’ MARKET. WORLD-CLASS BUTCHERS AND BAKERS. REGION-LEADING GASTROPUBS. (I’M LOOKING AT YOU, BAKER STREET STATION AND THE WOOLY.) HECK, EVEN GUELPH’S DOWNTOWN HOTDOG CARTAROUND SINCE 1998 - IS A MUST-VISIT BANGER.

MY TOQUE PARTNER, CAI, LIVES JUST AS CLOSE TO ALL THESE AMENITIES - ALBEIT ON THE EXACT OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE CORE. THIS MAKES DOWNTOWN FOOD SPOTS THE PERFECT PLACES FOR US TO MEET UP. GRAB A BITE. DRINK A PINT. DINE IN. TAKE OUT. TALK SHOP. NO MATTER HOW OFTEN WE EAT IN THE CORE TOGETHER, CAI AND I ARE ALWAYS AMAZED BY THE KILLER SELECTION: THE UP-AND-COMING SPOTS AND MORE ESTABLISHED JOINTS; THE GRAB-AND-GO GEMS AND SIT-DOWN, STAY-ALL-AFTERNOON-ON-THE-FRONT-PORCH LOCALS. (I’M STILL LOOKING AT YOU, BAKER STREET STATION AND THE WOOLY.) FOR THIS ‘FOOD ISSUE’, CAI AND I DECIDED TO SHINE A LIGHT ON FIVE DOWNTOWN GUELPH FOOD SPOTS THAT HELP DEFINE THE ECLECTIC NATURE OF THE ROYAL CITY’S CULINARY SCENE. A BRAND-NEW BRITISH BAKERY THAT SERVES UP EXTRAVAGANT MEAT PIES. AN ESTABLISHED – AND EXTREMELY POPULAR – CAFÉ THAT DOUBLES AS A GALLERY. A CUPCAKERY WITH A KILLER VIBE. EVERYONE’S FAVOURITE VEGETARIAN (AND OPEN MIC) DESTINATION. AND THE AFOREMENTIONED HOT DOG CART. THESE MAY NOT BE BAKER STREET STATION OR THE WOOLY, BUT THEY’RE CERTAINLY WORTH A VISIT. SO SEEK THEM OUT. GRAB A BITE OR A DRINK. OR BOTH. AND ENJOY YOUR STAY.

BELLA, OWNER

KEAGHAN, CHAILEY & ALYSSA, OWNERS

MOE, OWNER

The highlights:

• dogs & sausages with all the fixin’s

• a recognizable, friendly face

• serving up dogs since 1998

MOE’S HOT DOG CART ST GEORGE’S SQUARE, DOWNTOWN GUELPH

We are ArtMed!

We are Guelph’s award-winning, industry-leading experts in the art of cosmetic medicine.

We are ArtMed, a centre of excellence offering a truly comprehensive range of treatment options, products, and services.

We are ArtMed, a welcoming community of expert practitioners. Locally women-owned and operat ed, we are located in a century landmark building in downtown Guelph.

We are ArtMed – the trusted professionals you’re looking for to help you reach your aesthetic goals.

Owners, sisters, & Guelphites - Dr. Mary Peirson and Jane Watson.

UE R OP

THE HOLIDAY SEASON IS UPON US!

Give the gift of an ArtMed aesthetic service, a pampering facial or a holiday skincare set. Shop gift certificates and products in-store or online at shopartmed.ca.

Rachel Woodcock

OUR FOOD FUTURE: WORKING TOWARDS A CIRCULAR FOOD ECONOMY

WORDS BY CHRIS TIESSEN (WITH OUR FOOD FUTURE, REIMAGINE FOOD); PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

It’s late afternoon – almost five o’clock – on a Wednesday in early September when I round the corner from Wood St onto Ontario St in the heart of Guelph’s Two Rivers neighbourhood. Just a few dozen metres down the block, spread across the driveway and side yard of a house almost directly opposite the historic Tytler school building, I spot the serendipitously choreographed melee I’ve come to experience: ‘Community FEWD’ in action.

A handful of volunteers, led by Chef Yasi Zorlutuna, buzz around a long wooden table laden with an array of chafing dishes – each filled with something wonderful. Ribs in orange barbecue sauce. Lentil vegetable coconut curry. Brussels with caramelized onion and ham. Citrus harvest slaw. And more. Yasi spots me as I approach and grabs an empty plate. ‘Are you allergic to anything?’, she asks as she

plunges a large spoon into a pile of fragrant rice. ‘I eat everything,’ I reply. She loads a plate and hands it over. I take a first bite of the curry and swoon. It’s five o’clock now, and folks have begun to line up in front of the serving table – some with empty Tupperwares, others with plates, and yet others with nothing at all. Chef Yasi and I step aside and find a quiet corner where, while I continue to enjoy the curry, we can talk about what’s going on.

‘At its core,’ Yasi tells me, ‘Community FEWD [Food Equity With Dignity] is about offering equitable, dignified, and nourishing meals made from fresh produce and food items to anyone who wants to eat well – no matter their economic status.’ What distinguishes this food is that it was made from ingredients that were destined for landfill. Yasi explains: ‘Many food security programs lack the labour force and facilities required to safely process,

Chef Yasi Zorlutuna

Powered by Our Food Future

on an ongoing basis, and in a timely and foodsafe manner, mass quantities of perishables. Community FEWD does this.’ Fantastic. And so tasty too. While we chat, I note FEWD volunteers fill a family-size container with ribs and brussels for someone in line. ‘We offer as much food as these folks request,’ Yasi tells me. ‘Some of our clients are here to feed just themselves, while others are here to collect meals for their entire families.’

And the cost? ‘Whatever anyone feels like paying – if anything,’ Yasi notes, pointing to a donation box. ‘Our goal is to offer delicious food for anyone who wants a good meal. No questions asked.’ And so how does Yasi make her money to keep FEWD going? ‘When we’re not doing pop-ups like this one,’ she tells me, ‘we do traditional catering jobs for the forprofit and non-profit sectors. And we also get help from wonderful funders.’ Makes sense to me.

Over the next hour and a half, Chef Yasi and her small but mighty team feed between sixty and one hundred people – a number that’s

reached each time Community FEWD hosts a pop-up like this one. Some weeks Community FEWD sets up in Two Rivers. Other weeks they pop up in Onward Willow, Brant Ave, Grange Hill East, Parkwood Gardens, or the North End Harvest Market. Always weekly. Always over the dinner hour. (Visit fewd.ca for the schedule and to learn more about its catering services.)

‘Since early May,’ Yasi tells me as I clean a rib from its bone, ‘we’ve served over four thousand meals to folks.’ Fantastic. ‘What’s more,’ she adds, ‘over this same time period we’ve diverted almost two thousand kilos of food that was destined for landfill.’ Incredible. Community FEWD is a phenomenal program, to be sure, and just one of a number of local initiatives that’s supported by Our Food Future – a Guelph-Wellington program working hard to create a regional, sustainable circular food economy.

So what’s a circular food economy? Listen up. In our current food system, we tend to use a ‘take-make-waste’ model; that is, we take

UNDERSTANDING CIRCULAR FOOD SYSTEMS

CASE STUDY: SPENT

GRAIN

GRAIN USED (AND SPENT) IN THE BEER-MAKING PROCESS STILL CONTAINS VALUABLE NUTRIENTS. RATHER THAN THROW IT AWAY, IN A CIRCULAR FOOD SYSTEM BREWERIES GIVE THEIR SPENT GRAIN TO FARMERS AND FOOD BUSINESSES FOR USE AS LIVESTOCK FEED AND IN PRODUCTS SUCH AS BREAD, FISH FEED, AND PROTEIN SUPPLEMENTS.

resources from the earth, we make products, and then those waste products end up in our landfills. Not exactly sustainable. A ‘circular’ food system, on the other hand, designs waste out of the cycle and also aims to regenerate our natural systems to boot. This can include alternatives to plastic packaging, smart agricultural practices that use fewer resources and build soil health, and creative use of by-products from the production of our produce and/or proteins – including spent grains to make delicious bread, meat bones to make nutritious broth, and more.

A network of collaborators in the GuelphWellington region, armed with a ten million dollar first-prize finish in Infrastructure Canada’s Smart Cities Challenge, are driven by the belief that the only way toward a better food system for all is to adopt more sustainable, climate-friendly practices while boosting the local economy with circular businesses. This bold initiative, dubbed Our Food Future, promises to double current access to affordable, nutritious food, and address food waste by discovering opportunities that create value from food by-products. It’s also set to launch a host of local circular products and businesses through its sister project borne of the movement, the Circular Opportunity Innovation Launchpad (COIL), separately funded with five million from the Federal Economic Development Agency for Southern Ontario.

Working together has proven to be the recipe for success. COIL has been supporting circular

transitions in businesses across southern Ontario, helping them to identify opportunities through funding, education, mentorship and resources. While business competitors are working shoulder to shoulder, local governments are sharing resources and responsibilities. Local social enterprises and food access organizations are pooling their energies, working collaboratively to get more food to people in need.

And the efforts are working. In 2020-2021, over five thousand tonnes of food were diverted from landfill (equal to about thirty six million apples); more than three thousand people saw increased access to affordable, healthy food; enough GHG emissions were cut to heat more than one thousand Guelph homes for a year; and over sixty businesses received funding and support. Incredible (and inspiring) numbers, to be sure.

Transitioning the regional food system to one that is more circular, equitable, and sustainable will require data, partnerships, and a willingness to take risks and experiment. It also requires residents to join the charge. There are many ways community members can support the circular food economy movement. Launching this season, Our Food Future’s Reimagine Food campaign will invite local communities into conversations about our regional food culture – exploring the food system we have and imagining the one we want. Watch for them around Guelph and communities in Wellington County.

OUR FOOD FUTURE IN ACTION:

COMMUNITY FEWD IS JUST ONE OF MANY INNOVATIVE AND INSPIRING INITIATIVES THAT ARE HELPING GUELPH-WELLINGTON GET CLOSER TO BECOMING A COHESIVE, SUSTAINABLE CIRCULAR FOOD ECONOMY. HERE ARE JUST A FEW OTHERS:

FRIENDLIER: TAKE-OUT NEVER FELT SO GOOD

Friendlier’s signature blue boxes have diverted over 100,000 single-use containers from landfill in under two years. Just order from a partnering restaurant, campus cafeteria or food retailer, enjoy your meal, return at your convenience, and get your deposit back through the app. friendlier.ca

HOT CHOCOLATE WITH A PURPOSE

With only three ingredients – beef bones, honey, and cacao – Beck’s Broth’s bone broth hot chocolate uses beef bones that are upcycled from a local farm, and their commitment to sustainability includes locally-sourced ingredients and returnable glass jars. With business and marketing coaching from COIL, the company expanded its product line to include coffee, and has grown its online and retail sales. becksbroth.ca

SLIDING-SCALE ONLINE GROCERY SHOPPING

When the pandemic catapulted online sales and delivery services, The SEED saw an opportunity to strengthen their work in food security. The SEED is Canada’s first sliding-scale online grocery store. Members shop a growing inventory of fresh, prepared, and pantry products, and choose to pay competitive retail prices knowing their purchase helps other members who pay a percentage of retail costs based on need. The program captured national attention and sourced additional funding to expand. theseedguelph.ca

FROM PULP TO PERFECT POWDERS

Troubled by seventy five annual tonnes of organic by-product from their juicing process, Greenhouse Juice teamed with Herbert Labs and SAINA+ to find a solution. With COIL’s one hundred thousand dollar demonstration funding, Greenhouse is piloting an innovative enzymatic treatment to make that pulp into a nutritious whole-plant powder. So far the results are delicious. Their first ‘upcycled’ product, a Ginger Beer, is now available for order. greenhouse.ca

PROMOTING REGENERATIVE SOIL PRACTICES

Brett Israel helps a neighbour unload the manure Brett will use as fertilizer on his farm. In exchange, he will drop off straw to use as livestock bedding. ‘Circularity is as practical as this example,’ laughs Brett, who runs 3Gen Organics. Using outputs as inputs is the essence of the Circular Economy, and in farming this is known as Regenerative Agriculture – a focus on rebuilding biodiversity above and below ground. Our Food Future’s Experimental Acres pilot supports this kind of farming as does Brett’s own family store. 3genorganics.ca

CONNECTING NEWCOMERS WITH COMMUNITY AGRICULTURE

Between Lourdes Highschool and St. Joseph's Health Centre in Guelph you can see a rain shelter and garden shed adorned with over a dozen handcrafted wooden flags. The flags represent the home countries of newcomers who are taking the initiative to grow their native food in a large urban vegetable garden abutting the shelter and shed. This is Food from Home = Food for Home – a project co-founded and run by Dr Karen Houle and Omelnisaa Giddam, and funded by Our Food Future. What’s happening here is significant, as participants are connecting with their homelands through ethnic and culturally specific foodstuffs. Aleppo peppers. Fish peppers. Cowpeas. Perilla. Malabar spinach. Molokhia. And it’s about much more than gardening. It’s about community-building. And memory-making. And empowerment.

110

MEET YOUR MAKER

LADY SARA’S BOUNTY ladysarasbounty.com @ladysarasbounty

WHEN YOU’RE NOT WORKING, WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE WAY TO RELAX? Gardening

FAVOURITE COOKING TOOL? Robot Coupe

FAVOURITE VEGETABLE TO COOK WITH? Sweet potatoes

FAVOURITE THING TO GROW? Flowers

FAVOURITE PLACE TO GRAB A DRINK? Fixed Gear Brewing Co.

WOULDN’T IT BE LOVELY TO HAVE NOURISHING HOMEMADE MEALS DELIVERED STRAIGHT TO YOUR DOOR? IN NO-WASTE CONTAINERS BY 'THE FRIENDLIER COMPANY' TO BOOT! THAT’S THE IDEA BEHIND LADY SARA’S BOUNTY – A ROYAL CITY BUSINESS THAT CRAFTS A WEEK’S WORTH OF DELICIOUS, HEALTHY FOODS FOR BUSY PEOPLE AND DISPATCHES IT STRAIGHT TO THEIR DOOR. AND GET THIS: THE MEALS ARE COLOURFUL, SOUL-SATISFYING, AND MOUTH-WATERING. AND THE MENUS CHANGE WEEKLY. CRAFTED WITH SUPER FRESH INGREDIENTS (MANY OF WHICH COME STRAIGHT FROM LADY SARA’S ORGANIC GARDEN PLOTS), LADY SARA’S BOUNTY IS SURE TO PLEASE. HONEY GINGER SESAME NOODLES. CLASSIC LASAGNA. SPINACH QUICHE. AND SO MUCH MORE. DROOLING YET?

AVE

WILSON ST

GUELPH

THE GUELPH FARMERS’ MARKET:

ANIMATING THE CORE WITH DELICIOUS COMMUNITY

WORDS BY DANI KUEPFER; PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

If you know anything about me – which you probably don’t – you would know I am a diehard Guelph Farmers’ Market regular. It’s been the anchor of my Saturday mornings for several years – perhaps my longest standing commitment besides my rabbit, who is ten and also has a penchant for local produce. Some visits I lumber home, my tote packed heavy with the freshest ingredients grown and made with love, poised to put together a potluck dish that elicits a ‘how is this so good?!?’ from my family and friends. Other visits, I leave nearly-empty handed, satiated with a cup of coffee and a couple chats. In fact, if you know anything about me – which probably you should, because I’m frequently going on tangents about myself – you would know I love to run into acquaintances and chit chat about everything and nothing in particular.

That’s what’s so great about the Market: it’s a destination, an actively-created space that’s the perfect place to linger, chat, and peoplewatch. And, of course, fill your boots with the tastiest treats, the freshest veg, and among the best cuts of meat you’ll find in the region. All this produced by decades-established family farms and fresh-faced entrepreneurs alike. And all of them a part of the historied quilt that is the Guelph Farmers’ Market.

Built in 1911 as an animal barn for the Ontario Winter Fair (now, the Royal Winter Fair), the market building was once connected to modern-day City Hall via an underground tunnel. (The stories of long-forgotten tunnels throughout the Royal City are more than enough to fill several pages of this magazine, but that’s for another issue – today we’re talking about food.)

This particular Saturday morning is basked in a heavy sunshine that takes the edge off the autumn chill, and as I swing around to the backside of the Market with my tote bag full of tote bags, I see the outdoor lot is flush with vendors. As the days grow colder, things will begin to shift inside – though an armful of vendors will bundle up and greet you with a mittened wave throughout the season.

I slip inside and beeline for the back corner, where I am greeted by my pals Jay and Ryan of the Guildsmen Café. While I am by no means married to one particular coffee shop, I’ll happily declare this one my favourite. Here, perfectly pulled espresso meets super-locallysourced ingredients like elderflower foraged from the Yorklands Green Hub. (Depending on the weather and my mood, I might enjoy their Elderflower Wildbrew, which drinks like a strong iced tea softened with a floral veil.) Today I stick to my usual Lavender Oat Latte, the namesake ingredient sourced from

Baroque Botanicals, a local farm whose booth you’ll also find here.

Equipped with my java (and laughing to myself at the thought of using the word ‘java’), I dive back in. I have a few goals today: to find a housewarming gift for my best pals, to find an inspiring way to tackle the dozen ripe heirloom tomatoes on my kitchen table, and perhaps to indulge my urge for a snack, too. When I wander back outside to quickly snap up a few grocery staples from Maryhill Organic and a half-peck of honeycrisps from Brantview Apple Farm, I make a mental note to grab one of the vibrant, oddly-shaped pumpkins from Duurzame Growers on my way home. I stop to chat with the folks at The Seed: a nonprofit run under the umbrella of the Guelph Community Health Centre that makes good, healthy food accessible to our community. I’m familiar with their Souper Heroes fundraiser and grocery program, but their booth at the market is relatively new, offering a range of

locally-sourced produce and pantry items through a pay-what-you-can model. I wander down to La Brehandaise Market to ogle the french pastries and, after sinking my teeth into a croissant – necessary brain food – I have the brilliant, buttery idea to make a tomato galette.

I head inside to Sweet Cheeses and chat with Heather while nibbling on samples of a crumbly, funky goat’s cheddar from Gunn’s Hill. I pitch her my galette idea and she presents me with a chevre from River’s Edge – exactly what I was looking for. (Pro tip: visit Sweet Cheeses at the Market’s new Thursday evening session for their baguette + brie deal, then stop by Two Faces on Wilson Street for a glass of wine and an hour of pretending you’re in Paris, complete with the distant coos of pigeons.)

I wander down the line and scoop up a mishmash of lovely things for my friends, who are eight months pregnant and moving house this weekend (oh boy). Gluten-free oatmeal raisin cookies from Fourfold Farms. A few jars of ready-to-cook porcini risotto from the notorious Mushroom Ladies, Patricia and Maria. A glorious shepherd’s pie from Fergie’s. I say hello to Melku at Laza and grab a couple bottles of hibiscus tea, too. And, finally, I select an enchanting merlot-hued mum from my friend Nicole at Heritage House Farms (plus a dozen eggs and a jar of the best strawberry jam, for my own schemes).

My bags are growing heavy, and I balance the pot of mums on my hip (practice, of course, for my soon-toarrive nephew) and check the last few items off my list: a jar of the good stuff from Doug’s Honey, a mango jerk tofu burrito from Rodolfo’s Rebel Foods (yes, you saw them at Hillside and Riverfest), and a plant-based chipotle mayo from Daniel and Ryan at Grassroots.

Before I head back outside, I stop at Gamble Farms and say hello to Kip, who always has a few minutes to chat about his favourite subject: microgreens. I graze on a few samples and settle on wasabi-mustard sprouts, then duck out into the back lot and grab my final prizes: the endearing pumpkin I had my eye on earlier, and a bundle of sunflowers from Janet and Ralph, the last booth before the exit. Though I generally take the long

PLANNING A VISIT TO THE GUELPH FARMERS’ MARKET? THEN MAKE A DAY OF IT. HERE ARE FIVE GREAT SPOTS WITHIN A SHORT WALK FROM THE MARKET TO TACK ONTO YOUR TRIP:

ERIC THE BAKER (46 CARDEN ST)

Love french cuisine? Eric’s got everything from croissants & gâteaux Basques to savoury tarts & quiches

THE COMMON (28 WILSON ST)

Looking to take a load off? The Common is a fully-licensed café & bar with an ascetic hipster vibe

IF.. FOOTWEAR (42 WYNDHAM ST N 101A)

‘Tis the season for Red Wing boots. For these classics (and way more) walk on down to this footwear boutique

MIIJIDAA (37 QUEBEC ST)

Lunch in order? This joint celebrates Canadian-inspired food & drink. After your meal, tour the shops along Quebec Street

SPEED RIVER BICYCLE (112

WYNDHAM ST N)

Every season’s for cycling. Hit up Speed River’s new location to ogle sweet bike gear for the whole year

way home on mornings like these, today I am overburdened with beautiful things, so, freighted with my plentiful treasures, I waddle the few short blocks home.

The Guelph Farmers’ Market has seen plenty of changes since it was reinvented from an animal barn to a public market six decades ago – maybe even more so in the past few years as vendors navigated a changing climate and, most recently, when the market was coopted by downtown-based community hub, 10C. If you haven’t been to the market in a few years, it’s worth a revisit. The crowds have calmed and the space has been reorganized to allow for more flow; gone are the single file days of the old farmers’ market. Blue-vested 10C staff are out and about, happy to answer your questions (and as someone who’s been

coming for years, I still have a surprising number). Many businesses have added card payment to their previously cash-only offerings. And they've grown their social media presences – meaning you can take a peek at what’s being offered at the market before you even roll out of bed.

You don’t need to go far to find exceptional food and beautiful gifts – they’re already here. In fact, they’re grown and crafted right here in our region, and they’re waiting for you to discover them in the heart of the Royal City, every Saturday morning. See you there.

GUELPH FARMERS' MARKET

2 GORDON ST, GUELPH 10carden.ca/market

Ardin Lalui, co-owner of Elora’s The Friendly Society, looking good in Tom Ford Browline frames

FANS OF FERMENTATION:

LIFTING THE HOOD AT KJ URBAN WINE & CRAFT BEER SUPPLIES

WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

‘We harvested these this morning,’ Jeremy Morris calls out to me while he lowers the tailgate of the work truck, raises the rear door of the bed cap, and beckons me to take a look inside. 'I would’ve grabbed even more but I just didn’t have the space.’ As I come closer, allowing time for my eyes to adjust from the harsh morning sunlight to the shaded interior of the truck's bed, the smell hits me – like a wallop to the nostrils. Dank. Pungent. Familiar. Fresh hops – and a whole lot of them. But for what?

‘These are surplus hops from our friends at GoodLot,’ Jer tells me, giving props to the Caledon farm brewery where brewer (and friend) Mike Brooks helped Jer load the truck just hours before. 'We'll be distributing them for free to our customers here.’ I wait to hear

more. Jer continues: ‘For the past two years we’ve worked with GoodLot to collect some of their excess hops, which we distribute to the small army of homebrewers who support us. It's a token of our appreciation.’ Sweet stuff.

It's early-ish morning, late August, and I’m at KJ Urban Winery & Craft Brewing Supplies. Located just off the busy Guelph intersection of York and Victoria, KJ sits in a cute plaza that also houses Royal City Brewing Co and the Guelph Grotto – two wicked destinations where I’ve spent more than a fair share of my time. KJ has always intrigued me but, until this morning, never got my full attention. After all, I never registered a need for what KJ has on offer: wine-making and craft beer supplies. I’m a huge fan of drinking wine and beer, but I’ve never put much thought into making

KJ brewer Jeremy Morris smells the fresh hops from GoodLot

either. After just a few minutes at KJ, though, I’m beginning to think differently.

‘Let’s put these up near the front door,’ KJ owner Adrian Trochta tells Jer as he grabs a fistful of hops and pulls the entangled plants from the truck and onto a skid. Together with KJ General Manager Connor Creighton, Jer and Adrian wheel two overflowing skids of hops from the rear loading door to the front of the store where, when the place opens in just a few minutes, customers can easily collect these fresh hops for their homebrewing projects. In fact, a handful of customers are already lined up outside – waiting for the place to open so they can claim their share of the dank stuff. ‘We should open a bit early to let them in,’ Adrian says.

So Connor unlocks the doors, the hop-craving crew enters, and another day at KJ begins.

Over the next few hours, I experience the hustlebustle of this seemingly non-stop business, watching as wine is bottled, grain is milled, a pilot batch of beer is conceived, and a constant flow of customers keep staff on their toes with questions about everything from brewing equipment to hop strains, wine ordering to recipes, yeasts to juices. But one thing at a time. Let’s begin (as so many lovely occasions do – and as KJ did) with wine.

‘Each year,’ Adrian tells me as he leads me to KJ’s wine-bottling station set up in one corner of the large retail space, ‘we import up to one hundred thousand litres of fresh juice from Europe for wine production.’ I attempt to fathom what the numbers mean. Adrian helps me out. ‘In other words,’ he explains, ‘we produce more wine in a year than many cottage wineries in Niagara produce over the same period of time.’ I’m baffled. I take a look at the bottling station –comprised of a dishwasher, large sink, four winefilling spouts, and a single corker – and marvel at how this can possibly be. I watch as KJ Assistant Manager & Production Lead Devon prepares the station by cleaning lines and gathering empty bottles for filling. She pops on the first four bottles of the day, filling them with red wine from

a large drum. Connor mans the corker – one bottle at a time.

‘You mean to tell me that almost one hundred thousand litres go through these four spouts each year?’, I ask incredulously. Adrian is quick to respond. ‘Eighty percent of this juice is made into wine on-site; the remainder is sold to customers for their home wine-making operations. Anyone can walk in here and purchase as little as ten litres of fresh European juice for their wine-making pursuits. We’re probably the only business in Canada that offers this.’

Adrian continues: ‘We take our wine game extremely seriously. Every year I spend a few weeks in Europe sourcing our juices from production centres in Italy, France, and Germany. I choose which juices KJ will offer, balance them on-site so they’re perfect for our wine-making, and have them shipped here directly.’ He goes on: 'I’ve been in this industry for thirty years now – a tenure that began here at KJ [then Kamil Juices] when my parents first opened the business back in 1980. At sixteen I moved to Europe where I continued to learn the wine game at massive production wineries. I did everything from cleaning floors and sterilizing equipment to bringing in the harvest, conducting lab analysis, and ringing in front of house sales – whatever helped me learn more about this craft.’

Devon joins in: ‘Our clients include everyone from nineteen-year-olds to folks who’ve been coming here for forty years,' she tells me. 'They’ve all got questions. And we give them our best answers.’ Connor, in the midst of corking, pipes up. ‘And when we don’t have answers, we find answers by asking more questions – often directed to other customers.’ He adds: ‘It’s amazing how much knowledge there is in our customer base. We certainly don’t take them for granted. They are our community – our friends.’

Friends who, over the past decade especially, have expanded their passion for wine-making to home brewing. Adrian leads the way to the business’ beer operation, which features a small milling room, pilot brewing system, a phenomenal array

KJ

owner Adrian Trochta

of grains and hops and brewing equipment, and everything else a home brewer might desire. ‘In 2015-2016,' he tells me, 'when the craft beer boom was really heating up in Ontario, Connor [who began working at KJ way back in 2012] convinced me to get into the craft beer game.’ Adrian chuckles while recalling those heady days. ‘And so I let him spearhead the brewing side of KJ. In that first year alone, he must’ve brewed fifty different beers, figuring out what’s good and what’s not. In those days, we definitely learned alongside our customers – and from them.’

At about this same time, Adrian tells me, he gave the business a serious facelift –transforming it from a tired old-school winemaking joint to a dynamic urban winery and craft beer supply mecca. He was aiming to create some sort of fusion between Tuscan winery and bodega. And with exposed wood, brick walls, and a high ceiling he succeeded in

creating this airy space: a blissful destination with style to boot.

Fast forward to today, and KJ’s craft beer game is on point – thanks in large part to Jer's being brought on board as the business’ research and development brewer. A former Wellington Brewery hose dragger (an endearing term for ‘brewer’ that my next-door neighbour and career ‘hose dragger’ Andrew Henry taught me), Jer knows his way around a brewhouse –or, in KJ’s case, a pilot system: a smaller version of a larger brewing system, that allows for experimentation and smaller scale brewing.

‘I brew about five or six times a month on the pilot,’ Jer tells me as he preps the equipment. ‘Many of these brews will become monthly recipes that we send out to our customers.’ A great idea. ‘Brewing on a pilot system,' Jer continues, 'allows me to keep on top of the latest trends in homebrewing, where

the advancements in equipment over the past five or ten years have been dramatic. It’s now possible for a homebrewer to craft on a small scale what breweries do on a large scale.’ In fact, complete newbies can learn the craft of homebrewing, which is why Jer has been developing homebrewing courses to be taught at KJ beginning late October. ‘Over the past little while,' he tells me, 'we’ve been running trial classes as we build our curriculum. We’ve had guest brewers attend to give input. It’s our mission to offer a full range of instruction, from introductory classes for beginners to courses for intermediate and expert brewers. We'll deal with subjects like kegging, clarification, carbonation, and more.’

And KJ’s relationship with brewers extends beyond the homebrewer. ‘We actually work with many area breweries – to supply them with wholesale ingredients, mill grain for them, provide them with juice, you name it,’ Jer tells me. In fact, KJ has worked with – or continues to work with – a number of regional craft breweries, including Grain & Grit (Hamilton), Fairweather (Hamilton), Hop Society (Georgetown), Wrinkly Bear (Orangeville), GoodLot (Caledon), and Elora (Elora). What’s more, KJ works with the brewery next door Royal City Brewing (Guelph), to facilitate after-hour pick-up for KJ customer orders so that KJ staff can prioritize a great work-life balance. And KJ is the largest reseller of Guelph-based Escarpment Labs yeast – which, over the last few years, has seemingly taken over the craft beer industry.

After my hours-long journey of discovery of another dynamic enterprise just around the corner from home, I make my way back to the front door where I notice a small group of customers pulling fresh hops from the skid on the floor. I pause to look around, embracing the heartening realization that the community Adrian and his tight-knit team have created here extends well beyond the passion for fermentation that initially brought them together.

KJ URBAN WINERY & CRAFT BREWING SUPPLIES 199 VICTORIA RD S, GUELPH kamiljuices.com

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COCKTAIL HOUR

AS DAYS GET SHORTER AND NIGHTS GET COLDER, OUR TASTES IN COCKTAILS TEND TO SHIFT FROM BRIGHT, REFRESHING FARE TO COZY, SOOTHING DRINKS THAT WARM THE THROAT – AND THE SOUL. ENTER SPRING MILL’S ‘MULLED CAPONE’: A WONDERFULLYSPICED CONCOCTION THAT (BELIEVE IT OR NOT) CAME TO SPRING MILL MIXOLOGIST SHELBY LEENDERS IN A DREAM. ENJOY THIS DRINK AT ‘THE WARD BAR’ NEAR THE HEARTH, OR CREATE YOUR OWN AT HOME. EITHER WAY, IT’S A DREAMY AFFAIR.

MULLED CAPONE

Method: Shaken with ice Glass: Lowball Garnish: Dehydrated lemon, cocktail cherry & shaved nutmeg

1oz Spring Mill Traditional Straight Whisky .5oz Spring Mill Ward Series No.1 Spiced Liqueur 1.5oz red wine 1oz lemon .5oz demerara simple syrup .5oz apple-cinnamon simple syrup 2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters

Method: Combine ingredients in a shaker with three cubes of ice. Shake for 10-12 seconds. Strain into a lowball glass. Garnish with dehydrated lemon, cocktail cherry & shaved nutmeg. Enjoy.

RECIPE BY SPRING MILL DISTILLERY MIXOLOGIST SHELBY LEENDERS