TOQUE 17 - The Provisions Issue by Toque Magazine

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Eby Street Bodega, Downtown Kitchener

THE PROVISIONS ISSUE

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17.

R e le ase d M A R . 2022

magazine TM CAi SEPULIS, partner art d irec tor. d esign & i l l ust rat i on

CHRIS TIESSEN, partner ed ito r. writin g & phot ography

Contributors: Tim Crawford, Dani Kuepfer, Monica Mazun, Christina Mann & Sonia Preisler.

This global pandemic continues to affect almost all industries – including the paper industry. Just weeks before going to print with this issue of TOQUE, we were once again informed that, as a result of difficulties in this industry, our regular paper stock was no longer available. Like many businesses during these challenging times, we were forced to pivot – compelled to choose a new paper stock, sight unseen. Please bear with us as we – like so many of you – find ourselves doing our best to adapt to this new 'normal'.

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YOU CAN TELL A LOT ABOUT PEOPLE BY THE THINGS THEY CARRY. THE OBJECTS THEY USE. THE CLOTHES THEY WEAR. THE FOOD AND DRINK THEY CONSUME. THE PROVISIONS THEY EMBRACE SERVE AS EMBLEMS OF LIVES LIVED. THEY SIGNAL (TO THE WEARER, USER, CONSUMER – AND TO OTHERS) WHAT ROADS THEY'VE TRAVELLED, THEIR PRESENT POSITION IN LIFE, WHAT FUTURE ADVENTURES THEY MIGHT DREAM ABOUT. THE PEOPLE AMONG WHOM WE LIVE ARE UNLIKELY TO GATHER SEASHELLS, LIKE TRAVELLERS IN THE MIDDLE AGES DID, TO CONFIRM WHERE THEY'D ARRIVED ON A PILGRIMAGE. BUT ALL CARRY EVIDENCE THAT GESTURES TOWARD THEIR INTERESTS AND SUGGESTS WHERE THEY'VE BEEN, WHO THEY ARE, AND WHAT THEY VALUE. IN THIS ISSUE THE FOCUS IS ON PROVISIONS – SUPPLIES FOR LIVING. AND THINGS THAT ADD COLOUR AND FLAVOUR AND FULNESS TO EXPERIENCE. THESE MIGHT INCLUDE THE MOST BASIC STAPLES, BUT ALSO LOCALLY-CRAFTED ITEMS, ETHICALLY-SOURCED PRODUCTS. SUSTAINABLE GOODS, CURATED GEAR, AND VINTAGE TREASURES. PIECES THAT ARE FUNCTIONAL, AESTHETIC, ASPIRATIONAL – STEPPING STONES FOR HEALTHY LIVING, AND HAPPY TIMES, AND MEANINGFUL EXPERIENCES AND MEMORIES. HERE WE SHINE A LIGHT ON THOSE FOLKS WHO BRING PROVISIONS TO LIFE. BECAUSE THERE ARE SO MANY OF THEM HERE IN OUR REGION. MAKERS. FARMERS. CURATORS. BUILDERS. FAR TOO OFTEN THEY DON’T GET THE ATTENTION THEY DESERVE – OR THE PATRONAGE THEY NEED. AFTER ALL, THE GIANTS OF COMMERCE ARE ONLY A CLICK AWAY. IF THIS PANDEMIC HAS TAUGHT US ANYTHING, IT’S THE CONVENIENCE OF ONLINE SHOPPING. AND THE CONCOMITANT VULNERABILITIES OF OUR LOCAL CREATIVE INDUSTRIES. WE MIGHT BEST BE DRIVEN NOT SO MUCH BY WHAT'S CONVENIENT, OR PERHAPS EVEN BY WHAT'S SUSTAINABLE, BUT BY WHAT CAN SUSTAIN US AND/IN OUR COMMUNITIES. NOW MORE THAN EVER IT'S TIME TO SUPPORT LOCAL. SHOP LOCAL. LOOK TO OUR NEIGHBOURS FOR THE THINGS WE VALUE, THE THINGS WE NEED. AT THIS TIME IN THIS WORLD WE NEED TO LOOK TO EACH OTHER FOR THE THINGS WE CARRY. THE OBJECTS WE USE. THE CLOTHES WE WEAR. THE FOOD AND DRINK WE CONSUME. AFTER ALL, THEY’RE ALL RIGHT HERE. THOSE PROVISIONS THAT ENLIVEN OUR LIVES AND PROMISE TO FORTIFY US FOR THE JOURNEY. EMBLEMS OF, RESOURCES FOR, LIVES WELL LIVED. WELCOME TO ‘THE PROVISIONS ISSUE'.

.ca

CONTENTS 9. EDITOR’S LETTER: THE PROVISIONS ISSUE 14. ILLBURY + GOOSE: A ‘FRONTIER CHIC’ CANADIAN BRAND 24. DAYTRIPPIN’ WITH LINDSEY & JOE MRAV 26. MEET YOUR MAKER: STRAUS DESIGN CO. 30. INTERNATIONAL GROCERS: A WORLD BEYOND THE EVERYDAY 38. # PHOTOSPREAD: LOTS TO LEARN! 40. THE DAILY GRIND: GOING BEHIND THE SCENES AT DETOUR COFFEE 50. #PHOTOSPREAD: FOOD TOUR 56. GETTING TO KNOW: KEEPING THE BOOKS INC. 60. PARAMOUNT SKIS BIKES BOARDS: WHERE THERE’S NO OFF-SEASON 74. #PHOTOSPREAD: STOCK UP 82. EXPERT OPINION (INVESTMENT): MONICA MAZUN 84. UNCOVERING WELLINGTON COUNTY: THE BARREL HOUSE 86. BOTTOMS UP: BEER HOPPING IN DOWNTOWN CAMBRIDGE 92. #PHOTOSPREAD: FEED YOUR SOUL. 96. SETTING THE SCENE: EXPLORING THREE LOCAL FARM MARKETS 104. MEET YOUR MAKER: FRINGED ELORA 106. ANATOMY OF A BRAND: SOMEDAYS 110. RELISHING THE HUNT: DIGGING IN AT MARKET ROAD ANTIQUES 118. CHANDELIERS & VELVET: GETTING COZY AT ELORA DISTILLING COMPANY 128. COMIC: GOOSE 130. COCKTAIL HOUR WITH TIM CRAWFORD

illustration: Cai Sepulis

@caisepulis

14 ONT ARIO ST

DUN

DAS

LONDON

I LL B UR Y + G OO SE: A ‘FRONTIER CHIC’ CANADIAN BRAND WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN ‘Our goal has always been to move toward

I take a closer look. Feel the shirt's weight in

one hundred percent Canadian production,’

my hands. Note the details in the stitching

Daniel tells me as I thumb through a rack

and the reinforced patches on the elbows.

of heavy duty plaid button-ups – searching

Try it on. Button it up. I’m a tall drink of water,

for my size. ‘These shirts, for instance,’ he

to be sure, and have a tough time finding

remarks as I pull a sweet green and black-

anything long enough that doesn’t then

patterned piece off the rack, ‘are pretty much

also drape over me like a blanket. But this

an all-Ontario affair – with just a little help

shirt fits like a glove. The sleeves just right.

from America.’ When I glance quizzically at

The shoulders roomy. The length perfect. It

Daniel, he elaborates. ‘All design was done

has me feeling like Goldilocks – minus the

in-house,’ he tells me. Fantastic. ‘The buttons

criminal instinct. I take the piece off and hand

are fabricated in Toronto.’ Amazing. ‘The shirt

it to Daniel. ‘I’ll take it,’ I tell him, ‘but not

is cut and sewn in the GTA.’ Proper. ‘In fact,’

before browsing a touch longer.’ I can be a bit

he concludes, ‘the only part of the process

of a clotheshorse, after all.

that isn’t Canadian is the material – and even that’s sourced from North America.’

It’s a sunny Tuesday morning in mid-

California, to be precise.

February, and my TOQUE Partner Cai and I are in London to check out Illbury + Goose – a

clothing and provisions boutique that’s been

For Cai and me – both fans of rugged brands

on my radar for a hot minute. Founded and

like Filson and Patagonia and Red Wings – the

run by the aforementioned Daniel James

Illbury store is like some sort of wonderful

Phillips, Illbury is like a heaven (and haven)

oasis. Perfect for the urban cowboy – or,

for enthusiasts of archetypal Canadiana.

perhaps more fittingly, the urban trapper. Just

From the vintage canoe hanging behind the

wandering around the place makes me feel

counter (and stuffed with quintessential

strikingly more cool.

Illbury toques, blankets, and other goodies) to the taxidermized stag head mounted on a

And it all started, Daniel tells me, with a logo.

barn board wall to the Hudson’s Bay blankets

‘The Illbury + Goose brand grew out of my

draped over a weathered leather couch at

earlier work as a designer,’ he explains. ‘Well

the back of the shop to the antique crates

over a decade ago I began making graphic

and vintage coolers piled high with Illbury-

tees and selling them at festivals. At some

branded wool socks and handmade soaps

point I created – for a bunch of shirts and

and beard oils and other apothecary goods

hats – what’s now the Illbury logo: an anchor

(all made right here in Canada), the place

that’s finished at the top with a maple leaf.

exudes frontier outpost vibes.

FROM THE HORSE’S MOUTH – A QUICK Q+A WITH ILLBURY + GOOSE’S DANIEL JAMES PHILLIPS: FAN FAVOURITE? Definitely the Classic Snapback – it’s like Canada’s version of a Yankees hat

PIECE THAT MAKES YOU MOST PROUD? Our flannels and button-ups. Our superior fabric will last a lifetime

COLLAB OF YOUR DREAMS? Something with The Hudson Bay Company – the brand is a Canadian icon

YOUR MOTTO FOR THE BUSINESS? Truly unique, entirely Canadian

THINGS YOU DO WHEN YOU’RE NOT WORKING? I love spending time on Lake Huron at the family cottage with my partner, Emily, and our dogs, Cooper & Marty

BEST SPOTS TO EAT & DRINK IN LONDON? Powerhouse Brewing for beer & bbq. Paradigm Spirits Co for cocktails. Delilah’s is super tasty. Hunter & Co, Milos Craft Beer Emporium, The Morrissey House, Pho Lee Restaurant

Those shirts and hats sold out fast. So I did it

other apothecary items made for Illbury by

again, and they sold out fast again.’ He looks

London’s Purdy Natural and other regional

at me, shrugs his shoulders, and adds: ‘Soon

companies. The theme is becoming clear.

enough there was sufficient interest to build a brand around the logo, and I began creating

‘We love collaborating with local companies,'

products that I’d been looking for from other

Daniel remarks, 'helping to build their names

companies but couldn’t find'.

through the Illbury brand. And there are so many incredibly talented individuals making

Like crewnecks with kangaroo pockets

awesome products right here in the region.

made for Illbury by Barbarian Rugby Wear

It’s a mandate at Illbury to work with as many

in Kitchener, for instance (which are virtually

as we can.’ Cai and I tour around the boutique

indestructible). Aromatic candles made for

– dazzled by the range of items. Trucker hats

Illbury by London's Mood & Co (including

emblazoned with the anchor and maple

their ‘Illsbury Doughboy’ scent that smells

leaf logo. Bamboo joggers. Classic enamel

so good you’ll want to eat it). Chipotle Maple

camping mugs.

Whisky BBQ Sauce by London’s The Hot Sauce Co (which is a definite fan favourite).

I spot a black tee emblazoned with

Leather baby moccasins, satchels, and wallets

‘ONTERRIBLE’ across the front and smile to

made in Ontario with Canadian leather by

myself. A sign of the times, for sure. Catching

Lodge & Co. All natural soaps and body oils

my grin, Daniel notes that these cheeky tees

and vapour rubs and salves and so many

have overnight become a shop favourite.

‘You wouldn’t believe how fast they've sold,’ he notes. ‘We must’ve gained at least a hundred new customers because of them.’ Not that the brand is

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lacking when it comes to a solid client base. Indeed, Illbury duds have been spotted on some pretty heady company – including the Maple Leafs’ Auston Matthews, John Tavares, and Jake Muzzin, for example, and even New York City's celebrity realtor Ryan Serhant.

We have a process to set you into a location that will feel like it was customized for your lifestyle, so you can fall back in love with your home.

And yet, even with such international attention, Daniel is adamant that Illbury + Goose will always remain a hyper local, staunchly London store – located in the city’s Old East Village neighbourhood. ‘I opened Illbury’s flagship in this neighbourhood because it’s home,’ Daniel remarks. ‘I grew up just minutes away, and I live here still. While I am working to keep the business expanding, its roots will always be here in London.’ To be respected, for sure. While Cai grabs a couple of gold Illbury logo pins (no doubt for our matching Filson Mackinaw

cruisers) and a handful of Illbury stickers (for our trucks’ ski boxes), I make one last tour of the place before we head back out into the wintery morning. I spot Illbury-branded beer (a collab with London’s Powerhouse Brewing), and coffee (collabs with London’s Fire Roasted Coffee Co and Cafézia Coffee), and even honey (a collab with Pure Honey out of St Thomas). And I realize that Illbury doesn’t just look the part of a frontier outpost – it plays the part too. Indeed, the place is like a one-stop shop for (almost) anything a person might ever need, from socks to beer. All branded beautifully with the Illbury anchor and maple leaf.

Frontier. Chic. Emphatically

Darryl Watty SALES REPRESENTATIVE

ILLBURY + GOOSE 884 DUNDAS ST, LONDON

illburyandgoose.com

519.590.0579 watty@wattyway.ca wattyway.ca

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DAYTRIPPIN’

A BREWING FAMI LY SHARING A CHOCK-FULL SATURDAY AROUND THEIR HOMETOWN OF HAMILTON.

LINDSEY & JOE MRAV

OWNERS AT GRAIN & GRIT BEER COMPANY, HAMILTON When Lindsey & Joe aren’t spending long hours at their most wonderful Hamilton brewery, Grain & Grit, they’re galivanting about town with their two kids, Ella and Evan. The pair have graciously invited us all along for this installment of Daytrippin’, so buckle up and enjoy the ride.

1. Our morning begins with coffee at our favourite local café, Domestique. We each get flat whites — oat milk for Lindsey, two percent for Joe — while the kids

C A FÉ D OM ES T IQ UE 102 KING ST W, DUNDAS

get hot chocolates. The café offers amazing breakfast pastries, cookies, sausage rolls, and sandwiches. We revel in friendly banter with Krys, Kendra, and other café staff before leaving (with big smiles on our faces) – ready to take on a day of adventuring.

M A IN L O OP HIK E , D U N D A S VALLE Y C ON S ER V A TIO N AR E A 650 GOVERNORS RD, DUNDAS

2. Now that Joe and I are adequately caffeinated (and the kids sugared up), we tackle our go-to trail – the Main Loop in the Dundas Valley. It’s a 3.4km hiking and biking trail that takes 60-90 minutes to complete. After parking in the main lot just off Governors Road, we head to the trail centre where we hop on the Main Loop. The Dundas Valley has 40kms of trails, so there are lots of great options here, but we love the Main Loop: it’s the perfect length for the kids and the scenery is varied and beautiful. If you’re hiking here in winter, crampons and poles are recommended as the hilly trail can be challenging.

3. Before lunch we stop at Dundurn Market for provisions. This local grocer has D U N D U R N MAR K E T 346 DUNDURN ST S, HAMILTON

terrific organic produce and locally-produced goods. While we have our groceries delivered weekly from Dundurn, we always forget something, so invariably grab some groceries at one of the market’s three locations. We can’t leave without a beautiful bouquet from Billie Flower Co.

4. For lunch, we’re excited to try the famous sausage rolls and Australianstyle hand pies at Sunny Corner Bar. This spot was born out of the pandemic when owners Dahlia and Ray pivoted their Meanwhile Wine Bar into a bodega/

S U N N Y C OR NE R BAR 302 JAMES ST N, HAMILTON

restaurant and bottle shop – offering local beers, wines, homemade goods, and scratch-made pastries. Our mouths water the instant we step into the place, our nostrils filling with delicious smells of fresh-baked pastries. We order sausage rolls and an assortment of hand pies — Mac N Cheese w/ Panko Crust, Curried Chickpea & Cauliflower, and Braised Brisket Cottage Pie. The sausage rolls – made with ground pork and beef, house-made bacon jam, beer onions & puff pastry – smash our high expectations. Before we move on we grab some cans you won’t find in your local LCBO.

C A FÉ B A F F IC O 1375 KING ST E, HAMILTON

5. When it’s time for our afternoon pick-me-up, we head to Café Baffico – right around the corner from Gage Park. During the pandemic, Baffico pivoted from an Italian restaurant into a wonderful neighbourhood bakery and bottle shop. Here the kids make a b-line for the table display of doughnuts. Ella chooses a ‘Nutella Bombolini’, while Evan delights in a ‘Ticats Dip’. Joe and I grab coffees and a box of Madam Bonbon chocolates: locally-made, hand-painted, and too beautiful to resist. And a loaf of sourdough for breakfast tomorrow.

6. Coffees in hand, we stroll around Gage Park – a 71-acre gem in the middle of the city. The kids devour their doughnuts (with a touch

GAGE PARK 1000 MAIN ST E, HAMILTON

of help from us) and take off for the well-equipped playground. While the park’s Tropical Greenhouse – its ponds featuring fish, turtles, and waterlilies – is closed when we visit, it’s a must-see attraction.

7. After Joe’s home-brewing hobby became his full-time career at J A M I E WA L DR O N B UT C HE R S 353 BARTON ST E, HAMILTON

Grain & Grit, he took up a new pastime — smoking meat. He never lets us go downtown without hitting up Jamie Waldron Butchers. We can order online, but Joe prefers to go into the shop for the full experience. When we enter the small, bright shop, Jamie offers us a cup of bone marrow soup on the house. Joe orders his favourites — T-bone pork chops, pork brisket, ribeye steaks, and homemade meat pies (our kids’ absolute favourite). All stocked up, Joe is already trying to decide what to throw in the smoker first.

8. We swing by MaiPai to pick up a Detroit-style pizza we had M A IP A I T IK I BAR 631 BARTON ST E, HAMILTON

preordered online. While it’s nearly impossible to choose between this joint’s enticing flavours, we settle on the ‘Secret Pickle Pizza’ (dill pickles, bacon, roasted garlic mayo & fresh dill) for us, and a classic ‘Pepperoni Pile On’ for the kids. MaiPai sells out quickly, so order early. We’ve been big fans of owner and Chef Salar Madadi for years – ever since we first tried Pokeh Bar (which has since closed). MaiPai is Salar’s latest venture and the pizza – featuring thick crust, lacy, crispy cheese edges & unique toppings – never disappoints.

G R A I N & GR IT B E E R C O MPANY 11 EWEN RD, HAMILTON

9. Hungry and exhausted from a day well spent, we hit up Grain & Grit – our second home – to enjoy our pizza with beers on the patio. (‘Ghosted IPA’ for Joe, ‘Little Thrills German Pils’ for me, and ‘City Seltzer’ for the kids). With the heaters cranked and the patio bustling

with our wonderful community, it’s a perfect ending to our day of exploring our own terrific hometown

DAYTRIP, TAG & POST!

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MEET YOUR MAKER

W H EN C A N A D A ’S O W N F I V E MA N EL EC T R I C A L B A N D S A N G ‘S I G N S , S I G N S, EV ER Y W H ER E A S I G N ’ W A Y B A C K I N 1971,

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OUR REGION IS VAST AND VARIED – AND INTERWOVEN WITH DIVERSE COMMUNITIES, CULTURES, AND FOODS. DELICIOUS, DELECTABLE, TANTALIZING FOODS. FOODS (AND FOOD INGREDIENTS) THAT, IN MANY CASES, CAN BE FOUND ONLY AT ONE OF OUR LOCAL INTERNATIONAL GROCERS. THESE DISTINCTIVE ENTERPRISES, WHICH ARE STREWN THROUGHOUT OUR REGION, ARE EASY TO SPOT – IF YOU’RE LOOKING. FOR THIS FEATURE, TOQUE WRITER DANI KUEPFER VISITS THREE OF THEM, AND REPORTS ON WHAT SHE FINDS.

AMERI CA LA T I N A

'Latin American food & the best tacos around.'

1120 Victoria St N, Kitchener americalatinavariety.ca

In my ongoing pursuit of the region’s best tacos, I

wildflower with a bright, green flavour) plus an order

find myself in a busy plaza along the bustling Victoria

of churros, and stroll the aisles while I wait for my

Street North corridor at the east side of Kitchener.

food.

America Latina, with its tidy storefront, is so much more than an independent food market. The shop stocks pantry staples and fresh foods from a variety of South and Central American origins – from Mexico to Colombia to Chile, and everywhere in between. But

The rows are stocked with good stuff from across the continent. An endless variety of spices, coffees, quesos, and tortillas. Banana leaves and corn husks for tamales. Items I can never seem to get my hands

the real reason I’m here? Lunch.

on: ancho sauce, date syrups, tomatillos. A small army

If you’re not hungry already, you will be the moment

guajillos, morita, chipotle, pasilla.

you step inside America Latina. The smell of delicious food cooking and the inviting buzz of people eating and chatting fills the space. I am immediately transported to memories of warm evening wanders

of hot sauces. And, of course, a sea of dried chiles –

While I explore the shelves, a steady stream of folks cycles through the food counter – apparently well versed in the secret I have only just discovered. On

and late night street food.

weekends, you’ll find the dining area packed with

What brings me here on this sunny afternoon is

soup, for example, or regional favourites that offer a

tacos, but, standing in front of the impressive menu,

salute to national holidays. You can also order their

I’m willing to reconsider. The shop offers a variety of

dishes through delivery apps, but I suggest you stop in

traditional latin street foods – each particular to their

and explore the store (and maybe take home a bottle

region of origin: Colombian empanadas, Mexican

of hot sauce – or three).

birria tacos, tamales in Salvadorian and Guatemalan varieties. I settle on pupusas, a stuffed tortilla that’s griddled and served with a pickled slaw and salsa roja. The national dish of El Salvador. The handheld flatbreads are generally filled with meats, cheese, or beans – although I suggest you indulge in all of the above and go for the America Latina Special – stuffed with jalapenos, beans, fried pork, and cheese. I also grab a version with loroco (a Central American

customers drawn in by rotating specials like seafood

I’m lost in front of a cooler full of house-made takehome meals, trying to decide how many empanadas will fit in my freezer, when I’m told my order is ready. It smells delicious. And it is. The pupusas are warm and crispy and super decadent, cut perfectly by the bright slaw. The churros are churros, which is to say they are crispy, fluffy, cinnamon-y parcels of joy. I crush the entire meal in minutes. Pleased, I begin scheming my return before I can even leave the parking lot.

'Your source for authentic Portuguese products & fresh fish.'

T O RREEN S E 223 Mill St, Kitchener torreense.ca

You’ll have no trouble finding Torreense thanks to

selection of fresh fish is imported weekly from a

the badass, two-storey mural (by regional muralist

variety of regions in Portugal and its islands, plus a

hero Steph Boutari) emblazoned on the side of

few other areas of Europe. Silvery mackerel from the

this Portuguese market in south central Kitchener.

mainland and speckled grouper from Azores. Ruby-

The place has been a neighbourhood staple for

hued seabream and striking coral Atlantic salmon.

Portuguese fare for half a century – a tradition carried

Glittering salt cod caught in Norway and aged seven

on by current owner Paulo Neves and his family.

months before finding its way to Paulo’s shop. Like

Specializing in baked goods, deli sandwiches, and

precious gems, sparkling in their glowing glass case,

a unique selection of fresh fish, the shop is an ideal

they’ll disappear if you take your eyes off them for too

destination whether you’re planning to spend an

long. Every Thursday morning Torreense opens its

afternoon cooking a celebratory feast or grabbing

doors (often, to a patiently waiting crowd) and offers

something delicious to eat on the run.

some of the freshest fish you’ll find in the city – that

The shelves and coolers are stocked with a variety of imported staples and locally-produced delicacies,

is, until it’s sold out. Which, generally, is around midafternoon.

all of which cater to the shop’s majority Portuguese

If you have a love for simple things done exceptionally

clientele. Bottles of piri piri and olive oils sidle next to

well – like fresh seabass, stuffed with citrus and

tins of coffee and, of course, sardines. In the deli, you’ll

grilled whole – Torreense is the spot for you. I watch

find imported goat and ewe cheeses alongside mild,

Paulo’s daughter skillfully clean a fish for an awaiting

fresh cheeses made locally, prosciutto, blood sausage

customer, though beautifully cut fillets are also

(and a similar variety made instead with wine). There's

available. From the deli, try their ‘serrana’ sandwich,

a revolving selection of produce as well, including

with soft cheese, prosciutto, and not much else (Paulo

white-fleshed yams, Spanish garlic, etc. Wooden racks

likens the aged meat to a fine scotch, keeping the

are restocked regularly with ring loaves, sweet breads,

sandwich simple to let the ingredients shine). Perfect

and pastries from a local Portuguese bakery. I would

for an impromptu picnic, with Victoria Park just a quick

be remiss if I didn’t declare my love for pastel de nata,

stroll down the street.

a heavenly custard tart and an absolute must try – that is, if you get there before they’re sold out. There’s also a humble selection of gifts sprinkled throughout the store, notably clay cookware and Galo de Barcelos (hand-painted roosters – a symbol of integrity and

Not that you need another reason to check out Torreense, but the grocer’s stunning mural is truly worth a visit. The towering piece blends Boutari’s signature high-contrast, multicoloured geometric

good luck).

patterns with traditional Portuguese imagery. A

The true gem of Torreense, though, is tucked away

your sandwich-in-hand Insta pic.

in the back of the pantry-like shop. An impressive

stunning welcome sign – and the perfect backdrop for

'Helping the region go Dutch for over six decades.'

D UT CH T O K O 666 Woolwich St, Guelph (second location at 760 Upper James St, Hamilton) dutchtoko.ca

A few blocks north of downtown Guelph, in a plaza

The star of the show, taking up the entire length of

along Woolwich Street, an oranje sign with a distinctive

the shop, is the deli. A wall of fridges is filled with

windmill motif pops out amongst its neighbours. It’s

imported cheeses (sharp goudas, tangy goat cheeses,

a thawing Friday afternoon, and this is my first visit

and funky blues) and meats – including roast beef

to Dutch Toko (previously a downtown staple) since

and blood sausage from local butchers employing

it moved into its new suburban home – just in time

traditional practices. You can also pick up Dutch

to celebrate its sixtieth anniversary. This fourth and

favourites like pickled herring, rookworst (a traditional

largest iteration of the family-owned European deli

smoked sausage you’ll find hanging from hooks along

lives in a massive and bright space – with soaring

the wall), and locally-baked raisin buns. But the shop’s

ceilings and tidy, petite aisles. (A second location, in

most popular item? Classic deli sandwiches, with

Hamilton, also flourishes.)

simple ingredients like ham, cheese, mustard, and

The shop is unabashedly filled to the brim with cheerful gifts and punchy-coloured pantry staples – most imported from The Netherlands. There's an

mayo – a nod to the simple joys of Dutch cuisine. Next time you’re in the area, grab one to go. You certainly won’t be disappointed.

alphabetical display of chocolate letters, for example

I wrap up my visit with a perusal of the salted licorice

– always a popular gift around the holidays. There are

aisle, where dozens of varieties of bitter, chewy, and

rows and rows of teas and biscuits (plus a selection of

inky-black treats are arranged in order of saltiness.

tea cozies that speak to my picnic-loving tendencies).

Naturally I fill a bag with a blend of them all, setting

Also Dutch favourites like pea soup, tinned herring, and

my friends up for a delightful surprise later on at the

curry ketchup. And, of course, hagelslag – chocolate

pub (once I’ve forgotten which one is the triple-salted

or fruit-flavoured sprinkles that top buttered toast, a

brain melter).

10/10 snack.

While I wander the sprawling shop, I notice how cozy it

I find myself lingering in front of a jam-packed wall

feels and remark to Hilke that the place must remind

of dozens of varieties of stroopwafels and speculaas

many folks of home. She agrees and adds that ‘people

cookies, plus blue-and-white ceramics and wooden

sometimes get emotional when they step inside – the

tulips. The combination of the distinctive cookies

foods, the smells – it reminds them of their homes,

and adorable tchotchkes reminds me of layovers

or of their grandparents and their loved ones.’ I

in Amsterdam. Shop clerk Hilke informs me that

make a mental note to save some licorice for my own

some long-time customers have been known to, on

grandmother, who is sure to enjoy it with much less

occasion, pick up souvenirs for loved ones at the shop

fuss than any of my pals

when they have forgotten them on their visits home. (Don’t worry, she’s not naming names.) As someone who packs light, I don’t blame them. The back walls are filled with gifts for all ages – sports jerseys, puzzles, and, naturally, wooden clogs (plus an adorable plush slipper version that makes me squeal with delight).

Freedom to focus on your dreams

@keepingthebookscambridge 1.866.469.2121 www.keepingbooks.ca

#PHOTOSPREAD

Detour Coffee production roaster Dan Sherrington

THE DAILY GRIND: GOING BEHIND THE SCENES AT DETOUR COFFEE WORDS BY CAI SEPULIS; PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN As I turn the truck down Clinton Street in

Dundas café location (on King Street West)

Hamilton’s Stipley neighbourhood, my TOQUE

a regular stop any time we’re touring from

Partner Chris riding shotgun, I can’t help but

our home in Guelph into Hamilton and then

feel as though we’ve been transported to

back out through Dundas. The café’s interior

another world – to another time. Rows of

design is on point, its side patio is gorgeous,

detached blue collar homes dot both sides of

and the coffee is among the best in the entire

the narrow street – seemingly distinguished

region. What we’re visiting today, in Hamilton,

only by the colour of their horizontal siding.

is Detour’s roastery and head office – to chat

Mauve. Rose. Sky Blue. Pale yellow. As we

with Detour’s directors and to check out their

crawl up the street, counting the house

digs.

numbers as we go – 87, 89, 91, 93 – the dwellings suddenly give way to a patina’d blue

We park right outside the building and make

industrial building with strong Brooklyn vibes.

our way toward a nondescript metal door that

99 Clinton. The new(ish) headquarters of

we can only assume is where we need to be.

Detour Coffee Roasters. We have arrived.

We're ready to go in, but not before pausing to marvel at the building a bit. ‘Imagine this

Detour has long held a special place in my

as a brewery,’ I exclaim to Chris, ‘or our

heart. For the best part of the past decade,

TOQUE office.’ Indeed, we’ve been hunting

my wife Sonia and I have made its sweet

for a space just like this (though not quite so

41 big) for the past several years – but the crazy

about a half dozen people busy working on

market has so far kept us locked out. We step

the other side of the glass – packing, labeling,

inside, where we’re greeted by Detour’s Co-

shipping roasted beans. I'm taken by the

Director, Ryan McCabe, whom we recognize

massive scope of this warehouse space, at

immediately from his tenure at Planet Bean

least a few thousand feet in size. The roaster

Coffee Roasters in Guelph. After our happy

itself presides over this expanse, towards

reunion, Ryan guides us past a few offices

the back. ‘Every day we’re performing about

and into a beautiful open concept area at

forty roasts on that machine,’ Ryan, who has

the back of the place. Sleek white tables, a

joined me at the window, tells me. It's a true

large island, comfortable couch, and coffee

workhorse, for sure. 'Every month,’ Ryan

equipment (grinders, espresso makers,

adds, ‘we receive new pallets of fresh green

brewing apparatuses) are sprinkled about the

beans from different origins.’ He points out

room. This industrial space almost looks like

the impressive shelving stacked with massive

it could be Detour’s next café – or at least a

burlap sacs of fresh beans occupying a good

tasting room.

bit of space, waiting their turn to be enlivened into the freshly roasted beans every coffee

‘Actually, that was the plan,’ Ryan tells me

aficionado craves.

when I remark on the potential of this sweet interior landscape, ‘but the pandemic has

'The beans come from various places around

put that scheme on hold – at least for now.’

the world, but mainly Central and South

While Chris takes his camera out of his bag

America,' Ryan tells me. ‘Emma [Emma

– preparing to shoot for this story – I note

Howarth-Withers, Detour's Co-Director and

an expansive interior wall of windows that

main buyer] travels multiple times a year to

divide the room we’re in from the roastery.

meet with farmers to purchase beans.' I’ve

When I walk over to take a closer look, I see

known Emma for years through the roller derby

wheels start turning; it is a comparison worth

scene in Guelph and as a seasoned bass player

thinking about. I can see the similarity when

in the Royal City’s music scene. As if on cue, she

considering all the roasts, regions, beans,

saunters into the room, suited in a denim jacket

blends. And yet millions of coffee drinkers are

and band tee. Another happy reunion.

just up for a standard cup of joe. All sorts of

things are coming into focus, including how Emma pauses just long enough to begin to

ironic it is that the Tiger-Cats home stadium,

identify some of the vast range of beans she's

‘Tim Hortons Field’, towers over this very

purchased for roasting. It's quite an array –

neighbourhood just a few blocks away.

everything from single origin varietals like Gesha beans from Costa Rica to Caturra beans from

But the operational parameter Ryan is invoking

Colombia to Heirloom beans from Ethiopia. As

is craft beer, with the specific appeal of its

Ryan notes: ‘Ethiopian beans tend to possess

huge range of options, each set apart by

more delicate flavours – with floral and citrus

distinguishing brands and logos. The fact that

notes. Colombian beans, on the other hand,

coffee bag design has changed so markedly

produce richer cola-like flavours.’ I’m busy

over the years takes on new meaning in this

scribbling notes.

context. Unique labels and quirky names have become so much more important. While we

‘What do you like to drink?’, he asks. I’m like a

explore the pros and cons of various trends

deer in the headlights, suddenly becoming acutely

in label design, Ryan lets us in on the fact that

aware of the shallowness of my knowledge of this

Detour is slowly revealing a rebrand. ‘We want

coveted constant companion to my day-to-day

it to represent us now,’ Ryan explains. ‘We’ve

life. ‘I guess I like my coffee the same way as I like

all been with the company for so long and

my beer,’ I stammer. ‘Bold and dark – like a smoky

we want more personality, we want it to feel

stout.'

approachable and, with all the heart we put into it, we want it to feel more like us.’ Warmer

Ryan's response makes me feel like I might have

colours, a soft retro vibe, more playful. More

said something profound. ‘It’s interesting you say

fun. Chris and I are more than persuaded.

that', he begins, 'because coffee is at a similar stage to where craft brewing was a decade ago

This little visit has become quite the adventure.

– there’s so much potential for growth.’ Aha. The

While I take quiet pleasure in discovering

Detour Coffee production roaster Dan Sherrington with co-director Ryan McCabe

Detour Coffee co-director Emma Howath-Withers

some of the mysteries of my favourite liquid food provision, I hear a distinctive slurp. Slurp. Slurp. Our attention is quickly drawn to Detour head roaster, Dan Sherrington. ‘He’s cupping,’ Chris proudly recognizes. ‘I did that once with Diana Olsen, founder of Balzacs, who explained it to me then as a rhythmic movement of ‘breaking the crust’ to push aside the grains and release the aromatics to give them a

BE KIND UNWIND

whiff. You then slurp the coffee and spit it out.' Our paradigms have now shifted from craft beer to wine (tasting). Slurp and spit. ‘Basically, I’m profiling and doing quality control,' Dan explains. 'This is how we go about comparing different roasts, checking for consistencies, things like that.’ Another bit of insight into coffee I'd never have guessed. I am taken with not only the craft, but also the art of it all. We linger in the back of this cavernous space just long enough to hear the satisfying sound of a sixty kilogram bag of coffee beans being poured out of the roaster. We've heard the beans popping as the machine whirred, as if proudly announcing its massive role in our daily pleasure.

Ryan, Chris, and I eventually loop back to the tasting room, where the aroma of a fresh roast percolates in the air and Morrissey plays softly in the background. I find myself transported to the coffeehouses in the early twenty-first century (before many craft breweries emerged in our regions) where we’d sit for hours, cup after cup, chatting away or reading paperbacks. Or, in my mind's eye, even further back, to the age of the great coffeehouses, when even so prodigious a spirit as Johann Sebastian Bach could be quoted as declaring: 'Without my morning coffee, I’m just like a dried-up piece of roast goat.' Even then people loved coffee, and enterprises like this. Downto-earth. Yes, Detour's rebranding makes sense. After all, when it comes to coffee, which is in the midst of a renaissance of sorts, we are talking not only about a vast range of taste, but also about artistry, skill, and even sound. It took a sweet tour like this one to

reveal to me things that were perhaps always there but I never slowed down enough to look and listen DETOUR COFFEE (CAFÉ) 41 KING ST W, DUNDAS

detourcoffee.com

P H O T O G R A P H E D

AT:

T H E

AT T I C

Y O G A

@DTKITCHENER DOWNTOWNKITCHENER.CA

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#PHOTOSPREAD

F O O D TO UR : FEATURING STRATFORD’S CULINARY PORTS OF CALL PREAMBLE & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

I’VE HEARD THAT IT WOULD TAKE ABOUT TWO HUNDRED DAYS FOR A VISITOR TO APPRECIATE EACH WORK OF ART ON DISPLAY AT THE LOUVRE IN PARIS. AMAZING. I’M BETTING THAT IT WOULD TAKE AT LEAST AS MANY DAYS TO ENJOY MEALS AT EVERY ONE OF OUR REGION’S FANTASTIC CULINARY DESTINATIONS. HOW WOULD ONE EVEN BEGIN SUCH A MONUMENTAL (AND FLAVOURFUL) EXPLORATION? ONE BITE AT A TIME, OF COURSE. AND PERHAPS ONE COMMUNITY AT A TIME. 50

WITH THIS IN MIND, SOME TIME THIS WINTER THE TOQUE TEAM HUNKERED DOWN FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS IN THE FOODIE-RICH ENCLAVE OF STRATFORD TO EMBARK UPON THIS DELECTABLE TASK. OUR MISSION: TO CRUSH FIVE DISHES FROM FIVE DIFFERENT SPOTS IN FESTIVAL CITY. BREAKFAST AT THE BRUCE HOTEL. LUNCH AT THE PLANET DINER. AN AFTERNOON RE-FUEL AT MERCER HALL. DINNER AT BRAAI HOUSE. AND POST-DINNER NIBBLES AT CAFÉ BOUFFON. HEY – STRATFORD AND PARIS ARE SURELY DIFFERENT REALITIES, BUT WHAT WE DEVOURED OVER THE COURSE OF OUR STAY CAN CERTAINLY STILL BE CLASSIFIED WORKS OF ART. ENJOY THE VIEW.

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B RA A I HO U S E 34 BRUNSWICK ST B R A A I H O U S E. R ES TA U R A N T

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GETTING TO KNOW: KEEPING THE BOOKS INC. INTERVIEW BY CAI SEPULIS; PHOTO SUBMITTED BY KEEPING THE BOOKS INC. W HET HER Y O U ’ RE J U S T G E T T I NG Y O U R BUS I N ES S O F F T H E G R O U ND O R T H E O WN E R OF AN ES T ABLI S H E D C O M P A NY , M A K I NG S UR E T H AT Y OUR BOOK S A RE I N O RD E R I S A N E S S E N T I AL – AN D T OO O F T E N O V E R W H E L M I NG – PAR T OF T HE JOB. T H E S O L U T I O N? F I ND I NG A G R E AT BOOKKEEP E R . S O M E O NE Y O U C A N T RUS T, W HO’ S EAS Y T O U ND E R S T A ND , A ND W HO H AS Y OUR BUS I N E S S ’ B E S T I NT E RE S T A T H E AR T. A FEW W EEK S A G O , T O Q U E ’ S C A I S E P U LI S S AT D OW N W I T H K E E P I NG T H E B O O K S I N C ’ S JEN N I FER S I M S T O D I S C U S S H O W J E NN I F E R T AKES CAR E O F H E R C L I E NT S . P A Y A T T EN T I ON .

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WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT KEEPING THE BOOKS? 56

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WHAT ARE YOU UP TO WHEN YOU’RE NOT TAKING CARE OF BUSINESSES?

We mainly focus on service businesses – from sole

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P A R A M O UN T SK IS BIK ES BO ARD S: WHERE THERE’S NO OFF-SEASON WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

While a blustery wind picks up and blows

It’s truly amazing what a difference good

across the hill, I feel our chairlift sway from

quality gear makes.

side to side. The biting gust assaults our bodies and blasts the grainy snow into the sky. I pull my balaclava up over my nose, adjust my goggles, and cinch my hood. My fiancé, Liz, who’s beside me on the lift, does the same. Below us, a threesome of skiers carve deep cuts into the corduroy. Our breath, visible in front of our faces, blows sideways in the wind. ‘You warm enough?’, I ask Liz – my voice muffled behind the layers. Liz nods. ‘And you?’, she queries. I nod back. In fact, I’m downright cozy. On this frigid day in late February. Up here on this lift. Exposed to the elements.

And what opportunities it creates, too. For fun in the great outdoors. With friends. Family. Indeed, ever since I got my little ones properly fitted with new skis and boots and helmets and goggles – and did the same for myself and Liz (and her kid too) – our winters have gone from tolerable to downright terrific. My go-to destination for kit? Guelph’s Paramount Skis Bikes Boards, of course. Because the staff are super knowledgeable (and downright rad) and the sweet gear they’ve got is always on point.

‘THEY WHO SING THROUGH THE SUMMER MUST DANCE IN THE WINTER.’ Lee Ferneyhough getting near-horizontal on the slopes

-ITALIAN PROVERB

Like the get-ups that are keeping Liz and me toasty up here on this lift – including (for our torsos) Patagonia Cap base layers, Patagonia Better Sweater second layers, The North Face ThermoBall Eco Financial empowerment starts Jacket (for me) and Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket (for Liz) third layers, and Arc’teryx shells (a Sabre AR for with us listening. me and Beta Ar for Liz) to bring it all together. On our noggins: Smith insulated helmets with Airhole balaclavas. And goggles – Oakley (for me) and SPY+

Our a base strategy Opticsteam (for Liz). Forwill our legs:build Patagonia Cap layers with The North Face bibs. And on our feet: with you that’s just right for K2 Disruption (me) and Anthem (her) skis with BFC (‘Built For Comfort’) boots. ‘Because at this infant you. stage in your ski journey,’ I recall Paramount’s Lee Ferneyhough telling us when he helped curate our gear just over a year ago, ‘comfortable boots are key.’

We are your navigators.

Sound advice, then. And sound advice now – my feet all toasty and content up here in the air at Caledon Ski Resort. Liz and I are here at Caledon – together with my TOQUE Partner Cai and her wife, Sonia – as guests of Lee and his stepdad, Gord Wilson. Anticipating a fantastic experience at one of Ontario’s sweetest private clubs, of course. But also looking forward to

talking with Gord and Lee – co-owners of Paramount – about where the business has come, and where it’s going. But talk, as they say, can wait. Or is it cheap? Whichever the case – these hills are calling, and we’re nearing the top of the lift. ‘Which run should we try?’, Liz asks as our chair crests the hill. To our immediate left: ‘Brimstone’ – a black diamond run. Further left still: ‘Philpott’s Folly’ – a slightly easier blue square. While Liz (with years of snowboarding out west under her belt) is keen for either route, I commit to the blue run. After all, black diamonds can wait until next week – or, more likely, next season – when I’m hoping to shred the gnar with a little more aplomb. And so we turn left off the chair and glide past ‘Brimstone’ to the top of ‘Philpott’s Folly’. The view down into the valley and across the hills surrounding Caledon is nothing less than spectacular – and tinged (for me) with a warm pink through these Oakley goggles. ‘And now look a little further,’ suggests a voice behind me. It’s Lee – who’s just come off the lift with Gord and has joined Liz and me at the top

Financial empowerment starts with us listening.

Paramount co-owners Lee Ferneyhough & Gord Wilson

of the run. I gaze toward the horizon. Spot a

Lee told us a few days prior, ‘it’s got its perks

cityscape. Skyscrapers. Office towers. Condos.

– including the fact that members are allowed

‘That’s Toronto,’ Gord says. ‘On a really

to bring wine and beer to designated spots

clear day, you can see the CN Tower.’ The

on the hill.’ And because Liz just happens

juxtaposition between where we are (here, on

to be General Manager at Elora, we’re able

these hills, in this quiet solitude) and where

to take advantage of this provision nicely.

we’re looking (toward a hustling bustling

Serendipitous, indeed.

metropolis) is striking. And also exactly why I’m prone to believe that what Gord and Lee are creating at Paramount is nothing less than a form of therapy; that is, a ticket to an alternative reality. The great outdoors. Away from city life, and from incessant screens, and social medias that divide more than they’ve ever brought closer together.

Before long, we’re all seated on Muskoka chairs around an outdoor fire that overlooks a good part of the resort. Cai and I grab boxes of poutine and sandwiches for everyone, while Liz hands out tall cans of Elora brew – including TOQUE’s annual collab with the brewery, ‘Friends Forever’, a New Englandstyle pale ale that packs a juicy punch. I’m

After a few runs the four of us take off

keen to hear all about Paramount’s history,

down the hill (Lee going devilishly fast on

back to when the shop was founded in 1993

his snowboard, the rest of us following on

by Gord and then-partner Ken Embree in

skis) toward Caledon’s Main Lodge where

Harvard Plaza. (Then they specialized in

we’re meeting Cai and Sonia – who’ve been

everything from racquet sports to camping

honing their skills on ‘Eaton’s Annex’ (a

gear to competitive swimming, before

green run that’s perfect for learning) – for

narrowing their focus solely to biking, skiing,

lunch, conversation, and a few Elora Brewing

and snowboarding endeavours.) However,

Company cold ones we’ve brought along to

Gord and Lee are less interested in discussing

the hill. ‘Because Caledon is a private club,’

the past than in exploring more existential

things, like how Paramount is, ultimately, about nurturing community and, in turn, creating memories. As Lee notes: ‘While it’s true that, on the surface, we’re in the business of selling quality skiing, snowboarding, and cycling gear, I firmly believe that we’re really in the business of bringing people together.’ I’m intrigued. Lee elaborates: ‘There aren’t many sports that can be thoroughly enjoyed by two, three, four generations of the same family all at once. Skiing, snowboarding, and biking are lifelong endeavors, and – when strung together – can be enjoyed through the entire year.’ Gord chimes in: ‘Since I initially founded Paramount back in the nineties, I’ve literally fitted with gear customers whose great-grandkids are now being kitted out at the store. It’s meaningful for us to know that we’re helping facilitate and foster family time together.’ I couldn’t agree more – considering how Paramount has almost singlehandedly created an opportunity for my young kids and me (along with Liz and her tyke) to spend full days together outdoors. Not to mention how skiing has reignited regular sibling time with my older brother and his wife, who have begun regularly driving in from their uptown digs near Toronto’s Annex neighbourhood to meet us at Blue Mountain (near Collingwood) or

Chicopee (in Kitchener) for days on the hill. And while the truck can get a bit cramped packed with adults and kiddos and all the food and drinks and equipment (and hand and feet warmers) essential for a full day at Blue, for instance, my Thule Motion XT XL ski box – courtesy of, who else, Paramount – ensures that there’s room to spare. And, of course, Paramount doesn’t limit itself to winter activities. Skiing is where my mind’s at here, in front of this fire, with good peeps and good drinks on Caledon’s impressive patio; but Paramount is also a full-service bike shop for less snowy endeavours (or, if you’re a winter fat biker like Liz and me, for snowy endeavours too). And with over five thousand square feet of space, the shop can accommodate showrooms for both winter and summer sports gear alongside separate service areas for skis, snowboards, and bikes. No off-season for Lee and Gord, then. Just sweet therapy all year round. While I down the last bit of my ‘Friends Forever’, I scan my environs. From my Muskoka chair I can watch the closest lift bring eager skiers and snowboarders to the top of ‘Eaton’s Annex’. A bit further afield I am able to catch glimpses of Caledon members darting down steeper runs. But I choose to focus my attention on the folks right in front of me: Lee and Gord – a father-son

We are your navigators.

team who’ve been brought closer (and bring others closer, too) by the sports they love. Cai and Sonia – a married couple who are loving learning new things together. And Liz and me – parents of young kids who are consolidating family traditions with every ski trip. ‘Wanna hit the hills for a few more runs?’, Lee asks the group as he stands and stretches his legs. I grab my helmet and goggles, pop them onto my head, pull my balaclava over my nose, and nod. I’m cozy in this gear. With these friends. On these hills. I might even be ready for that black diamond.

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ON A PARTICULARLY COLD DAY THIS PAST JANUARY, THE TOQUE TEAM TRUDGED THROUGH DEEP SNOW AND DANCED ALONG FRESHLY-PLOUGHED SIDEWALKS IN DOWNTOWN KITCHENER WHILE WE MADE OUR WAY TO FIVE WONDERFULLYINDEPENDENT BUSINESSES THAT OFFER A MYRIAD OF UNIQUE ITEMS – FROM FERMENTED WHITE PEPPERCORNS TO UNPASTEURIZED FRENCH CHEESES, TINNED ORGANIC MUSSELS TO JAMAICAN-STYLE CURRY POWDER, GOLDEN GUERNSEY MILK TO LOOSE INCENSE, CLASSIC PULP FICTION TO VINTAGE VINYL, GLASSBLOWN SMOKEWARE TO TENDER CACTUS NOPALITOS. IT WAS AN EYE-OPENING EXPERIENCE – ONE THAT REMINDED US OF ALL THE VIBRANT AND VITAL EMPORIUMS THAT MAKE UP THIS ESSENTIAL POCKET OF OUR REGION. SO GET OUT THERE. EXPLORE. ADVENTURE. AFTER ALL, PANTRIES AND SHELVES DON’T FILL THEMSELVES.

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EXPERT OPINION | INVESTMENT

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Looking back, I really wish my first thought had been why not me? I’m educated, I’ve worked in finance for a decade, I’m progressing towards further designations, I’m personable and truly care about our clients. But maybe my initial feelings were valid. After all, the financial industry has always been male dominated, especially in leadership roles. In fact, currently only seventeen per cent of full-service brokerage advisors are women. I hadn't seen many examples of female advisors around me, so my initial doubts regrettably seemed to make sense. Fortunately, the landscape is changing. Financial firms are building more diverse teams and supporting gender equality. Richardson Wealth has set a target

for half of its advisors to be female within five years, and currently nine of the fourteen members of the executive leadership team are women. I am proud to work for a company that strives to make sure all voices are heard. The fact that women’s wealth in Canada is growing cannot be ignored. It is estimated that over the next few years women will represent half of all privately held wealth in this country. Studies have shown that women think about money differently than men when it comes to their investments. As a woman, I am poised to help women meet their goals while investing according to their values. I’m grateful to work for a team and firm that believe in promoting women and supporting women-led companies while recognizing and encouraging women’s different wealth management goals. But most importantly, I’m looking forward to witnessing how diversity in perspective and leadership will change the mold for women in finance. All material has been prepared by Monica Mazun, who is an Associate Investment Advisor with the Mactaggart Hryn Team at Richardson Wealth Limited. The opinions expressed in this report are the opinions of the author and readers should not assume they reflect the opinions or recommendations of Richardson Wealth Limited or its affiliates. Richardson Wealth Limited, Member Canadian Investor Protection Fund. Richardson Wealth is a trademark of James Richardson & Sons Limited, used under license.

UNCOVERING WELLINGTON COUNTY

THE BARREL HOUSE WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

CLIFFORD

‘Here, man – stuff this into your mouth,' laughs Pete Bradford – excitedly pushing a butter tart into my hands. I lift it to my lips, take a bite, and search for a descriptor that can do justice to this little piece of heaven. ‘It’s made with our own whisky barrel-aged raisins,’ Pete tells me with a wide grin, ‘and our barrelaged brown sugar too.’ In fact, everything at Pete and Marla Bradford’s place – The Barrel House, in Clifford – is made with barrels on the brain. Barrel-aged vinegars (including ‘apple crisp’ and ‘raspberry’ flavours), barrel-fermented pickles (called ‘Dill Dawgs’ and sold individually on a stick and in one-litre containers), and of course freshlymade butter tarts, scones, and other tasty treats – all made with barrelaged ingredients. There's more. Pete, a bonafide cooper (one of only a small handful around), and Marla, a seasoned woodworker,

re-purpose spent barrels into furniture, full drum kits, and even Japanese Takio drums. So the place, with its full kitchen and gift shop, is well worth a visit this spring – whether you're looking for sweet treats, or more. Like so many other remarkable farms and food businesses that dot Guelph and Wellington County, The Barrel House is a partner of Taste Real – a County of Wellington program that promotes local food and facilitates valuable connections among food businesses, consumers, craftspeople, and farmers alike. Craftspeople like Pete and Marla – folks whose enterprise brings beauty (and bounty) to our lives. Learn more at thebarrel-house-canada.business.site and tastereal.ca

T O P T E N CR A F T BEV ER A G E D EST I N A TIO NS

REC IPE THE DALBY COCKTAIL

by Marty Van Vliet, Elora Distilling Company

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Ingredients: 2 ounces Gin (Great Expectations Elora Distilling Co)

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1 ounce Cassis 1 ounce Triple Sec 1 ounce lemon juice Method: Pour ingredients into a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake for a minimum 45 seconds. Strain, and serve in a cocktail glass with a slice of lemon. The cocktail is named after Robert Dalby who opened the Dalby Hotel in 1865 as well as a local brewery. The Dalby Hotel, later called the Iroquois, was the longest operating drinking establishment in Elora , serving drinks for over 120 years.

– Centre Wellington

4. Elora Distilling Company – Centre Wellington

5. Fixed Gear Brewing Company – Guelph 6. Heartwood Farm and Cidery – Erin 7. Silver Fox Distillery – Guelph 8. Spring Mill Distillery – Guelph 9. Royal City Brewing Company – Guelph 10. Wellington Brewery – Guelph For more information, see tastereal.ca

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‘Meander’, the permanent living architecture sculpture at Tapestry Hall

BO T T OM S U P:

BEER HOPPING IN DOWNTOWN CAMBRIDGE WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN ‘Wanna try something straight from the tank?’,

early March afternoon. We are on a singular

head brewer of Foundry Brewing, Geoff

mission: to check out this cozy community’s

Wiseman, asks while I'm gauging the natural

beer scene. While we’re well acquainted with

light in his brewhouse – deciding where

much else Galt has to offer (like Witty & Co,

best to take photos in this snug space. My

Phidon Pens, Art of Home, Sugar Daddies,

TOQUE Partner Cai and I glance at each other

Idea Exchange, Monigram's and more),

before nodding enthusiastically in unison.

we’ve never actually focused on its diversely-

‘Sounds good,’ Geoff says, grabbing some

textured beer scene.

tasting glasses, ‘at the moment I’m brewing a sessionable IPA, a pretty straightforward pale

Until now.

ale, and a crushable lager – any preferences?’ Before we have a chance to reply, he pushes

And where better to begin such a sudsy

on: ‘How about we try all three?’ Words to live

exploration than at Galt’s second newest craft

by.

brewery, Foundry Brewing, located in HIP Development’s Tapestry Hall – a magnificent

And what a wonderful way to start the

wedding and event space and the hub of

afternoon.

HIP’s grandiose Gaslight District adaptive re-use project. While Geoff hands us each a

Cai and I are in Downtown Cambridge –

sample of the ‘crushable lager’ – a low-carb,

affectionately known as historic Galt – this

low-alcohol content beer – he explains the

Foundry Brewing head brewer Geoff Wiseman

philosophy behind the brew, and brewery.

made a DIPA with Counterpoint in Kitchener,

‘Because we brew exclusively for Tapestry Hall

for instance,' he tells me, 'as well as a smoked

[and for a small bottle shop on location], we

lager with Powerhouse in London, a pale ale with

know that our clients are primarily folks who

Old Galt Bottle Shop, and ‘Brave Noise’ pale ale

attend weddings and other celebrations on site,’

– an international collaboration that promotes

Geoff tells us. ‘They’re here for a good time and

a more diverse, inclusive beer industry free of

to enjoy a few drinks. It’s best, then, to serve

discrimination.’ Busy times. And an impressive

them something that’s not too heavy or boozy.’

output.

Makes sense to me. And tastes great too. Indeed, as I move away from the hop-forward phase of

When we return to the taproom for flights, I

my life (with some exceptions, mind you) I have a

embrace the warehouse vibes – and take special

real appreciation for a light drink like this one.

pleasure in the ‘Lief’ American Farmhouse Ale. But we need to move on. Our next destination:

After chatting some more we bid Geoff adieu

Local 13. Not before popping into EVO Kitchen &

and – traveling on foot – make our way past

Bar (located right on Water Street) along the way,

the Cambridge Sculpture Park onto the Grand

though. (While a cocktail might seem too great

River Pedestrian Bridge, which offers wonderful

a diversion from our beer-focused afternoon, a

sight lines of the quaint downtown along the

whiskey sour in EVO’s industrial-chic space is just

riverbank. We're off to Farm League Brewing,

too pretty not to shoot for this story.)

across the river from Foundry. Local 13 is actually two restaurants (Local

By the time we arrive at Farm League (which was

Taproom and 13 Food & Beverage) stacked on

until recently the former home of Grand River

top of each other. It's fast becoming a favourite

Brewing and which began over a century ago

bar for Cai and me. Besides the great beer list

as the Cambridge Knife Company) I’m excited

and full menu, it’s the interior design that tugs

to enjoy a bit of time in their beautiful taproom.

at our heartstrings. The heavy wood and brass

With patina’d yellow brick walls facing massive

and exposed brick give the place a real Boston

windows, a wooden accent wall with painted

vibe. Gritty. Romantic. I half expect to see Mark

signage letting people know that Farm League

Wahlberg’s character from ‘The Town’ walk in the

brew is ‘Best Paired With Good Times’, it’s just

front door while Cai and I settle down for food

what I’m looking for. We’re greeted by co-owner

and drinks. Fish Tacos. Wings. And incredibly

and head brewer Mike Mayo and taproom

juicy pints of Wishbone Brewing’s ‘Hazy IPA.’

manager Kirstie (both of whom we know from

(What can I say – old habits die hard.)

their tenure in Guelph), and Matt, one of Mike’s business partners in the enterprise.

While we eat and drink, Cai and I peruse the bar top’s elaborate display of vintage inscribed

While Kirstie sets us up with flights – including

miniature brass placards – sponsored by patrons

‘Hauler’ lager, ‘Fun Police’ IPA, ‘Big Ticket’ Kolsch,

over the years to support the local Firefighters’

‘Lief’ American Farmhouse Ale, and ‘Sun Dive’

Gift Basket Fund. We could go on reading these

Cranberry Gose (a collab with Wave Maker Craft

little jewels forever. With lines from poems,

Brewery) – Mike gives me a quick tour of the

declarations of love, inspirational quotes, and

brewhouse itself. While we walk through what

plenty of inside jokes presented for all to see, the

seems like never-ending rooms of brewery, he

bar top at Local 13 is one of the region’s ‘seven

lets me know that Farm League, which opened

wonders.’ (And the bar itself, and bar back – a

its doors only last summer, is focusing right

century-old piece that was purchased at an

now not only on its own recipes but also on

antique shop in Philly – are just as impressive.)

collabs with other breweries. ‘We’ve already

With food in our bellies and jovial messages in our heads, Cai and I pay up and begin our short

Farm League Brewing’s bright & airy taproom

Farm League’s Mike Mayo

Local 13

EVO Kitchen & Bar

A plethora of choices at The Black Badger

Old Galt Bottle Shop

amble down Water Street to our next stop: The Black Badger. If going to Local 13 has me feeling as though I’ve traveled to Boston, then The Black Badger definitely has me feeling as though I’m back in small town England – where my family and I traveled extensively when I was a kid. With its Tudor-style wood beam and stucco exterior and dark, carpeted interior, the place is Cambridge’s home to all things British. Indeed, even the regulars seem to have British accents. Once Cai and I have seated ourselves at a corner table, I order a pint from our affable server. ‘I’ll have a Guiness, please,’ I tell her, before correcting myself. ‘No – make it a Kilkenny.’ When in Rome – or, in this case, Britain-by-way-of-Downtown Cambridge. Behind us a screen plays a football match. Around us regulars regale each other with tales of mischief. Cai and I are drawn into conversation from across the bar. The place feels like it’s one big family. While I nurse my pint, Cai and I nibble on nachos with deep fried jalapenos. By the time we leave, the place has filled up. I imagine it’s going to be a good night here. But onto the next. Our last stop on this beer hopping tour of Downtown Cambridge is the Old Galt Bottle Shop – back on the side of the river where we started hours before. We’re well-acquainted with the place. Indeed, it’s one of our favourite stops in the region. A bottle shop that’s also got a handful of rotating taps, ‘OG’ is where, as Cai says, ‘you’re guaranteed to find the best beer around.’ We post up on benches at one of the place's three family-style tables and order one last flight for the day – Dominion City’s ‘Strange Rain’ pale ale with blackberry and prickly pear, Blood Brothers x Third Moon’s ‘Chug Marry Trill’ DIPA, Jackass Brewing’s ‘Haze #3’ sabro lemondrop, and Town Brewery’s ‘Breaking Tables’ English bitter. ‘Holy smokes,’ Cai exclaims, ‘you’ve gotta try the ‘Strange Rain’ – it’s like kool-aid with bubbles.’ I take a sip and am swept up into a sweet cloud of childhood happiness. We make a note to grab a few cans on our way out – because that’s the beauty of this bottle shop. Co-owner Robert Quilty joins us for a while before leaving us to train a new hire. And so we sit – and sip. Taking in the day that was. From brand new craft breweries to an old-fashioned British pub; from event spaces and a killer bottle shop to a ‘Local’ that everyone wishes could be their local, Downtown Cambridge holds its own, and more, when it comes to beer.

Bottoms up

EAT. SHOP. EXPLORE. #DTCbridge

#PHOTOSPREAD

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SETTING THE SCENE: EXPLORING THREE LOCAL FARM MARKETS WORDS BY CAI SEPULIS; PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

AROUND HERE, THE DEPARTURE OF WINTER BRINGS ON THE URGE FOR SCENIC DRIVES THROUGH THE COUNTRY – TO CLEAR OUR HEADS, EXPLORE, AND FIND SOME UNIQUE FARM GATES AND MARKETS TO SOURCE LOCAL AND FRESH PRODUCE AND MEATS. FOR THIS FEATURE, TOQUE’S CAI SEPULIS ASKED FRIEND AND REGIONAL FARM GURU CHRISTINA MANN FROM TASTEREAL TO SUGGEST THREE LOCAL FARM MARKETS SHE MIGHT CHECK OUT. JOINED BY TOQUE PARTNER CHRIS TIESSEN AND HIS CAMERA, CAI SET OUT TO TAKE A CLOSER LOOK.

M OS BO RO UGH MA RK E T 5284 Wellington Road 32, Guelph mosboroughmarket.ca

Located just outside of Guelph, Mosborough Market

time staff. ‘People seem to have discovered the joy in a

is named after the tiny hamlet which once was: a wee

little drive to the country, and even though we’re small,

spot with a general store, post office, and train station.

we offer a great variety of products. We’re humble and

For the past decade, Mosborough Market has been

uncomplicated,’ Sue says. And she’s right. Much like

one of my regular stops for seasonal produce. You

the hamlet that once was, the market seems to have

can always tell what’s in season by what's on display

all the staples one would need: local vegetables, in-

outside. Pumpkins in October, of course, squash in

house-made baked goods, meats, maple syrup, coffee

fall, homegrown sweet corn in summer and fall, and

beans (from Lost Aviator, The Seventh Coffee, and

fresh cut flowers in spring.

Planet Bean), fudge, and local crafts. Mosborough also

On a sunny February morning, Chris and I head to Mosborough to meet with Sue Dickieson who, along with her husband Bruce, has been operating the farm market for over two decades. When we step inside the market shop we are immediately enveloped by

features an array of over twenty ready-made soups and entrées made in-house from scratch – including quiche, tourtière, and the local favourite, turkey pie. ‘It’s big and hearty and full of turkey,’ Sue tells us. ‘We have people drive in from all over for it.’

the rustic coziness created by all the green produce

‘I can’t come in here without buying something,’ I laugh

and local crafts. ‘Can you imagine that many years ago

to Chris as I grab some of Mosborough’s scrumptious

this was a storage barn for equipment?’, Sue remarks.

buttertarts and a couple turkey pepperettes for him

‘We’ve come a long way.’

and me to snack on during the ride home. Walking out

The pandemic precipitated an interesting shift for Mosborough since they suddenly had much more demand for their little store: less busyness, fewer

the front door, I feel myself excited for the freshness of spring. Without a doubt I'll be coming back in the coming weeks for asparagus and local fiddleheads.

lines, and an enticing and healthful excursion into the fresh air made them more appealing to many than a chain grocery store. So Mosborough transitioned from

YOU SHOULD KNOW:

being open one day a week over the winter months

•M osborough sells maple syrup from local producer,

to being open three days a week now (Thursdays through Saturdays) with twenty five full-time and part-

Shady Grove •a ll the brownies, muffins, date squares, and butter tarts are baked in-house

M APLET WI S S FA RM 8507 Line 6, Kenilworth mapletwissfarm.com ‘This must be the place,’ Chris exclaims as we turn up

deliver throughout Wellington County and also into

the long windy driveway that stretches across scenic

Kitchener-Waterloo, Cambridge, and Puslinch.’

rolling hills at Mapletwiss Farm, north of Fergus. We're immediately struck by how beautiful – and rustic – the place is. This is a working farm. Barns. Pigs in the

As we continue chatting and shuffling through the cozy shop, I get distracted looking at some savoury

distance. Fresh country air.

herb blends from Tullamore Lavender Co in Arthur

We’re met at the end of the drive by Amanda Twiss,

beans. Chris discovers a carton of eggs in a small

who runs the farm along with her husband James and

fridge whose colours range from deep red and brown

their two kids. When Amanda and James purchased

to blue. ‘They’re all from our pastured chickens,’

the property in 2018, their plan was to offer pasture-

Amanda remarks when she sees Chris readying his

raised meats in an educational context. ‘We want to

camera. 'On any spring day, you can see them running

welcome everyone who visits the farm to become

through the fields.’

more connected both to their food and to the story behind it,’ Amanda tells us. We sense her enthusiasm about the place even before she starts listing the farm events she plans to participate in this year, including

while Chris points out some Elora Coffee Roaster

Indeed, there's more to be seen outside, where we finish our tour with James, who gives us a closer look at their heritage bred pigs. They're a combination of

TasteReal’s ever-popular spring Rural Romp.

rare Large Black breeds, Tamworth, and Berkshire –

We head inside the wee farm store (which is really

to see and learn more. Another time.

not much larger than an oversized backyard shed) that features a range of product carefully curated by Amanda, alongside freezers filled with packed pork, chicken, turkey, and cuts of beef. ‘I could fill my freezer at home and not run out of options for weeks,’ I exclaim as I survey the list of all available cuts of beef. ‘If you can’t come out to the farm, you can order

each with their own history and character. I'm eager

As we drive away, I imagine coming back in the spring, grabbing a cup of coffee from the shop, picking up some provisions for dinner, and settling in to discover more about this exotic world next door. Besides, wandering around the farm would be a perfect way to spend a spring morning, don't you think?

online for bi-weekly delivery,’ Amanda tells me. ‘We

YOU SHOULD KNOW: • all meats in the shop are raised on the farm (except the beef, which comes from Alma) • i n the fall, Mapletwiss hosts a pumpkin party where folks can bring their expired Jacko-lanterns to feed the animals • in the spring, the farm taps their three acres of sugar maple trees

T H A T CHER FA RMS 5727 5th Line of Eramosa, Rockwood thatcher-farms.com ‘Remember the time we came out here for the

Chris is still reminiscing about the field dinner when

TasteReal field dinner all those years ago?’, Chris

we arrive and meet up with Dana – the place’s

begins to reminisce while we’re on our way to

dynamic ideas woman who left a career in education

Thatcher Farms, just outside Rockwood. ‘Especially

to expand the family farm business with her husband,

after these past couple years, it feels like a dream to

Adam, a life-long farmer. ‘Have you heard what we’re

have been to such a gathering.’ That field dinner was

up to back there?’, Dana asks with scheming eyes

an incredible feast featuring local produce and meats

while pointing out through the kitchen window to

teamed up with local chefs and paired with local craft

a beautifully-crafted – and massive – barn. ‘We’ve

beer. What made that event truly memorable, though,

named it Barn Swallow Fields. Once we’ve got it up

was the location here at Thatcher's.

and running, we’ll be using it to host events and music

Thatcher Farms began simply as little more than

100

– and we’ve already started booking weddings.’

a freezer in a shed – and the Thatchers' desire to

Chris and I are wide-eyed as we follow Dana to take

share their farm-raised meats with friends. Dana and

a closer look. We marvel at the barn's enormity and

Adam’s meticulous attention to detail and savviness

at the beauty of the post-and-beam construction –

allowed them to envision and develop the farm as a

almost-four thousand square feet with white pickle

destination butcher shop, bakery, and market. Before

wash barnboard paneled walls. Walking through the

long, Thatcher Farms also became a farm playground

space, I gaze up at the twenty-foot ceiling and imagine

with an area for kids, with a corn maze in the fall, and

myself sharing a mid-summer evening event here

strawberry fields in the spring. You never know, from

with friends – the large barn doors open and the fresh

year to year, what other new features they might add.

breeze dancing through the space and into the fields.

My wife Sonia and I make the trip out to the farm a

Heavenly.

few times a season, especially before heading out

After our tour of Thatcher's latest development, Chris

canoeing. We might pick up some of their summer

and I both leave with an armful of local cheese and

sausage, baked goods, and fresh local produce. Even

marinated chicken for dinner, hoping we'll be invited

my parents buy their holiday meats from Thatcher's.

to enjoy another field dinner at Thatcher Farms before

Like other regulars, they're attracted by this bright and

too long.

airy farm market where the aroma of freshly-baked goods makes any stopover feel like a visit to a perfect country home.

YOU SHOULD KNOW: • you can find Thatcher Farms at the Guelph Farmers’ Market (but the trip out to the real deal is worth it) • online orders for farm pick-up is an option

MEET YOUR MAKER

photo provided by Wildwood

B E C A U S E A P P A R EN T L Y B EI N G A S P EC I A L 104 104

FRINGED ELORA @fringedelora W H Y M AC RAM E ? It offers endless opportunities for design and creativity M OS T I M POR TA N T TO O L?

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MA C R A ME P I EC ES – I N C L U D I N G MA C R A M E AND

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D OW N T I M E ?

A N D B OU T I Q U ES L I KE S T U D I O KA MP I N A , SHE’S

Hiking with my dog and

S EL L I N G H ER B EA U T I ES T H R OU G H H ER SO CI AL

experiencing live music

MED I A C H A N N EL S , ON H ER ET S Y S H OP , AND AT FR I N G ED EL O R A . C OM – S O T A KE A P EEK.

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ANAT O MY O F A B R A N D :

so me d a y s GE T SOME DAY S . CO M ,

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DESIGNER: CAI SEPULIS, TOQUE LTD; CREATIVE DIRECTOR: LUX PERRY, SOMEDAYS PHOTOGR APHY: JACK PERRY ‘SOMEDAYS’ IS COMMITTED TO HOLISTIC AND INCLUSIVE PERIOD CARE. THEY CREATE RELIEF PRODUCTS THAT EMPOWER PEOPLE TO TRANSFORM THEIR RELATIONSHIP WITH PERIOD PAIN AND TAKE CONTROL OF THEIR BODY. FOR THIS PROJECT WE AIMED TO CREATE A SIMPLE, APPROACHABLE BRAND AND LABELING SYSTEM THAT WOULD BE BOTH PROMINENT AND ICONIC. WE PAIRED THE SIMPLICITY OF THE CIRCLE WITH THE SOFT AND FLUID SHAPES OF A FONT REMINISCENT OF THE 1970S, SUGGESTING A FEELING THAT IS AT ONCE MODERN AND FRESH. THE DESIGN, COMBINED WITH A WARM MUTED COLOUR PALETTE, IS MEANT BOTH TO INTRIGUE AND TO ENTICE.

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#PHOTOSPREAD

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R E L IS HIN G THE HUNT : D I GGI N G I N AT M A R K E T R O A D A N T I Q U E S PREAMBLE & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

THE HUNT. ANTIQUE COLLECTORS KNOW EXACTLY WHAT IT IS: THE SATISFYING ACT OF SEARCHING FOR (VINTAGE) TREASURE – AND FINDING IT. SECURING IT. GIVING IT NEW LIFE AT HOME OR PASSING IT ALONG AS A GIFT. MARKET ROAD ANTIQUES (LOCATED BESIDE THE ST JACOBS FARMERS’ MARKET AND FEATURING OVER ONE HUNDRED VENDORS SPREAD ACROSS TWENTY THOUSAND SQUARE FEET) IS THE PERFECT PLACE TO JOIN THE HUNT. IT’S A REGIONAL GEM FEATURING FURNITURE, GLASSWARE, TOOLS, JEWELLERY, COLLECTIBLES, ART AND BOOKS, VINTAGE CLOTHING, TOYS, AND MORE. HERE ARE A FEW VIGNETTES PROFILING WHAT’S ON OFF ER. VISIT MARKETROADANTIQUES.SHOP TO FIND OUT MORE.

(VENDOR 22)

(VENDOR 20)

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(VENDOR 523)

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(6)

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C H A N D E L I E RS & VELVET :

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GETTING COZY AT ELORA DISTILLING COMPANY TC

RCH

ME AL

CHU

W ST

WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN

ELORA

‘This one’s gotta be my favourite,’ I exclaim

A brainchild of business and life partners

to my fiancé Liz as I finish taking a sip of the

Marty Van Vliet and Mark Anderson – who,

third – and final – cocktail that’s included in

for over a decade, dreamed of opening

my flight of gin and tonics. I look down at my

an international hotel lobby-bar-inspired

notes to see what’s got me so excited. Citrus

distillery that would pay homage to such

pink gin with orange tonic. Refreshing. Bright.

iconic destinations as The Plaza in New York

Like summer in a glass. ‘Ya – I like this even

City, The St Regis in Florence, The Savoy in

more than the one with dry gin and cucumber

London, or the Ritz Carleton in Montreal –

lime tonic,’ I proclaim. Liz doesn’t seem to be

the Elora Distilling Company is like some

listening. And for good reason, I suppose.

sweet love letter to a gilded age. Especially

After all, she’s enthralled by her own cocktail

up here in the Royal Room, which serves as

– a spicy Caesar replete with speared pickle,

the distillery’s social space. With sit-down

pearl onion, and green olives. But it's no big

tables, private booths, a full wraparound

deal. After all, silence is golden. Especially in

bar, and windows overlooking the distillery

this dreamy, sundrenched space: the second-

proper a floor below, it’s definitely an ideal

storey Royal Room at one of the region’s

oasis in which to spend a mid-winter’s Sunday

newest (and prettiest) craft distilleries – the

afternoon like this one.

Elora Distilling Company.

A selection of Elora Distilling’s array of spirits

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‘It’s all chandeliers and velvet,’ Marty had

Marty and Mark, in their other lives, are the

proclaimed when, a few weeks earlier, I got

entrepreneurs behind Mermaid in Elora – a

the chance to ask him how he would describe

business that has the couple scouring the

this (literally) elevated space. Cheeky. And

world for vintage treasures and other unique

ever so fitting. As I polish off my flight of

and eclectic finds. Much of the distillery is

gin and tonics and scan the Royal Room for

filled with the spoils of their travels. I peer

our ever-so-personable bartender (because

through a window dividing the Royal Room

I’m eager to try the place’s Moscow Mule),

from the distillery proper and spot a most

I survey its meticulously-curated aesthetic.

impressive metal and glass chandelier

It takes no time for the unique features to

hanging from the distillery’s ceiling. Looking

catch my eye – including original brass and

closer still, I note that the massive piece’s

glass Art Nouveau chandeliers, polished silver

glass panes have been replaced by glass

antique bar accoutrements, button-tucked

etched with a version of the distillery’s logo.

velvet furniture, vintage suitcases-turned-

A nice touch – and evidence of the detailed

tabletops, and classic movie posters (I spot

attention that’s gone into designing the space.

‘An American in Paris’, ‘A Streetcar Named

I urge Liz – who’s cutting a bit of smoked

Desire’, and ‘North By Northwest’). Heavens –

gouda from the substantial meat and cheese

even the pandemic-induced dividers between

tray we’ve ordered – to check it out when our

the tables that (in most cases) are dreary

bartender arrives with my drink. Following

reminders of the tedious state of this COVID-

our gaze, he tells us that the chandelier was

filled world are beautiful vintage wood and

purchased by Marty from an old church in

glass units.

Woodstock. So very cool.

It should really come as no surprise that

After taking my first sip of the Mule – a very

the place is appointed so ornately. After all,

pleasing spicy combination of ginger beer,

Elora Distilling Co co-owner Marty Van Vliet

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Elora Distilling Co head distiller Paul Lachowich

122

vodka, and lime juice – I walk over to the window

A unique concept, to be sure. And right in line

to take a closer look into the distillery below.

with the distillery’s line-up of creative offerings:

What I see is a tidy jungle of stills and tanks

its ‘Elemental Vodka’ (triple distilled and triple

and barrels and ingredients. It's a familiar sight,

filtered and made with wheat from Wellington

actually, though from another perspective,

County), ‘Great Expectations Ontario Terroir

since I spent one morning a few weeks back

Gin’ (with locally-foraged Staghorn sumac,

getting a tour through the place (for this story)

sweet gale, and burdock root), ‘Dragon’s Cry

by head distiller, Paul Lachowich. I spot the

Spicy Caesar Vodka’ (infused with local dill,

custom equipment that he had introduced me

Ontario garlic and Ontario scotch bonnet

to – including the distillery’s gin still (labeled ‘The

peppers), ‘Sugar Maple Liqueur’ (with local

Queen Mum’ in bright cursive against its shiny

maple syrup), ‘Royal Black Spiced Rum’ (with

metal exterior), the mash tun (labeled ‘Dorothy

vanilla, nutmeg, and cinnamon), ‘Juniperus

Parker’), one of the holding tanks (labeled ‘Dean

Maximus Gin’ (with juniper macerated for

Martin’), and the filtration system specially built

forty-eight hours before being run through

for the distillery’s ‘Amethyst Spirit’. I couldn't

‘The Queen Mum’), and many more. I was

have anticipated Paul's commentary about that:

driven to admire the complexity, subtlety,

‘We craft the spirit by pouring our ‘Elemental

creativity, mystery of the whole enterprise.

Vodka’ through eight feet of activated carbon

My overwhelming impulse, though, was

and four feet of raw Ontario amethyst.’

anticipation. I want to sample them all. And, over my next few visits to the place, I undoubtedly will.

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Before long, Liz and I are finished with our drinks and have polished off the last morsels on the meat and cheese board. And while it’s tempting to order another round and bask in the convivial atmosphere that is the Royal Room, we opt to clear up the bill and head downstairs to check things out.

LEADING WOMEN IN WEALTH

Much like upstairs, the space feels cozy and well put together – with evidence of Marty and Mark’s travels throughout. And while a good portion of the shop is filled with wonderful swag (tees, totes, and other items emblazoned with the distillery’s original logo designed by regional sign god, Adam Straus), I beeline to the heavy wooden shelving that’s filled

Janice Bacon, named as one of Canada’s top 50 females in Wealth*

with bottles of the distillery’s good stuff. Vessels of all shapes and sizes – and with branding and label artwork that’s as varied as the spirits they contain. What a wonderful exercise in eclecticism. Then the distillery’s house label tonics catch my eye:

CIBC Private Wealth 42 Wyndham Street N., Suite 201, Guelph ON 519 823-4402 | 1 844 822-9679 janice.bacon@cibc.ca

‘Seville Premium’ with Seville Orange flavouring, ‘London Premium’ with cucumber and lime, and ‘Premium Traditional’ with no added flavours.

125

Recalling the fabulous flavours of my flight of gin and tonics, I am more than ready to celebrate these distinctive extensions to the distillery's offerings. What a great idea – extraordinary tonics: so appropriate for this place that is all about diversity and detail. While Liz and I stroll back out into the mid-winter Sunday afternoon and towards Elora’s main thoroughfare, we pass by a century-old stone building abutting the distillery. I recall Marty telling me that he and Mark are planning to convert the place into an extension of the business. ‘We’ll teach cocktail classes inside,’ he told me, ‘and build a large patio on the lawn.' Sounds like a fabulous idea to me – especially the patio.

I can barely wait to see how Marty will incorporate the velvet and chandeliers

ELORA DISTILLING COMPANY 102 METCALFE ST UNIT 4, ELORA

eloradistillingcompany.com

*Wealth Professional Canada, 5-Star Leading Women in Wealth 2021. CIBC Private Wealth consists of services provided by CIBC and certain of its subsidiaries, including CIBC Wood Gundy, a division of CIBC World Markets Inc. The CIBC logo and “CIBC Private Wealth” are trademarks of CIBC, used under license. “Wood Gundy” is a registered trademark of CIBC World Markets Inc.

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C O C K TAI L HO UR RECIPE BY SPRING MILL DISTILLERY MIXOLOGIST TIM CRAWFORD

OUR FAVOURITE GUELPH CRAFT DISTILLERY – SPRING MILL DISTILLERY – HAS A FANTASTIC WAY TO GET RID OF THOSE SUNDAY AFTERNOON BLAHS. WITH SPRING MILL MIXOLOGIST TIM CRAWFORD’S AWARD-WINNING CAESAR. AND A GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICH. STACKED. WITH OLIVES AND PICKLES TO BOOT. NOW GO – INDULGE. AT SPRING MILL’S ‘WARD BAR.’ ON SUNDAYS ONLY. WHILE WE WON’T DIVULGE THE INGREDIENTS OF TIM’S AWARD-WINNING CAESAR (OR DESCRIBE HOW TO MAKE SPRING MILL’S DECADENT GRILLED CHEESE), HERE’S A RECIPE YOU CAN TRY MAKING AT HOME:

CAESAR Method: Stirred & garnished Glass: Highball 1.5oz Spring Mill vodka (or gin) 2 dashes of hot sauce 3 dashes salt + pepper

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4 dashes worcestershire sauce 5oz clamato juice Caesar salt rimmer Garnish: green olives, pickle spears, a grilled cheese sandwich – anything you’re heart desires Method: Rim a glass with salt rimmer. Combine the rest of the ingredients in a glass with ice. Garnish with all of your favourite things. Enjoy.

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