Drinks: Magical—And Often Misunderstood—Mezcal

Magical —And Often Misunderstood— Mezcal

GET TO KNOW THE SPIRIT WITH A TASTE OF PLACE

STORY: Angela Hansberger

Thanks to its versatility for making cocktails, mezcal has long been a favorite of cocktail enthusiasts and bartenders, and now it’s surging in general popularity. Frequently confused as merely a smoky sibling to tequila, mezcal is often misunderstood. Its unique qualities enable it to highlight different flavor spectrums of a drink.

Similar to how all bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon, all tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila. In this case, both are made by distilling the core—called the piña—of the agave plant. Of more than 200 species of agave, about 40 can be used for mezcal production, but only blue agave can be used for tequila.

Place matters, too. Ninety percent of mezcal is produced in Oaxaca in southwestern Mexico. Tequila is mainly made in the state of Jalisco (also where mariachi music originated).

After harvest, the large, spiky leaves are sliced off, revealing the heart of the agave. Here is where the largest difference (and all the talk of smoke) comes in. The piñas need to be cooked to transform their starches. For most tequilas, this happens in ovens. In contrast, most mezcal piñas are arranged over red hot stones in wood-fired earthen pits, roasting for days and taking on the flavor of smoke. Both kinds of spirits undergo similar last stages of production, where the cores are crushed, fermented and distilled.

Aging is what separates types of mezcal. Most fall into the Joven/ Blanco/Silver categories that are un-aged or aged in stainless or plastic for fewer than two months. Reposado is mezcal aged in oak for two to 12 months. Añejo is aged for more than one year in oak.

Mezcal’s taste is expressive of the process and the plant base with green, herbal notes and often a hint of smoke. At Westside’s Miller Union, head bartender Angela Guthmiller adds another drought-tolerant succulent into the mix. The Holy Elixir cocktail fuses mezcal with the fresh scent and vegetal elements of Chareau aloe liqueur along with cucumber, basil and a celery shrub. Aloe adds a softness, brings out floral aromatics and hits off the smoky body of mezcal, while the other ingredients keep things lively, vivid and refreshing overall. “Mexico calls mezcal, the beautifully crafted spirit that is such a part of the culture, its Holy Elixir,” she said of the drink’s naming.

Celebrating the food regions of Oaxaca, Puebla and Sinaloa, Chido & Padre’s has an extensive mezcal list to accompany the homemade tortillas, moles and hand-smashed guacamole. The cocktail program brings out the flavors of mezcal varieties in delightfully balanced beverages that are equally visually appealing. El Bad Bunny is a bright, zingy mix that includes a traditional Dominican drink that is both nutritious and refreshing. Jugo de zanahoria y naranja sounds unusual, but it’s simply a blend of carrot and orange juice, chock-full of beta-carotene, B6, vitamin K and vitamin C. It’s stirred together with sweet and smoky Xicaru Mezcal and finished with a spicy kick of fresh ginger. If you’re truly an explorer of mezcal, look no further than Casi Cielo, which translates to “almost heaven.” The restaurant boasts the largest selection in Atlanta with more than 80 options to choose from, including flights that arrive with house made grasshopper salt, an earthy and herbal accoutrement. The verdant La Llorona offers great expressions of vegetal, citrus and floral notes when ordered with Banhez Joven Mezcal. The rich mix of mezcal, lime juice, agave and a pepper puree of jalapeno, habanero and serrano comes rimmed with house made chili powder. It’s a great match for the eatery’s Oaxacainspired dishes. n

If it grows together, it goes together. The Holy Elixir at Miller Union combines mezcal and aloe liqueur for a desert experience. Chido & Padre's kicks up healthful ingredients with ginger and mezcal in El Bad Bunny. La Llorona at Casi Cielo blends the spice of three peppers with floral mezcal and bright lime juice for a well rounded cocktail.

DETAILS Casi Cielo 404.549.9411 casicielo.com @casicieloatl Chido & Padre’s 404.848.9100 chicoandpadres.com @chidoandpadres Miller Union 678.733.8550 millerunion.com @millerunionatl

Adelina Social Goods' Sarah Noble knew her cocktail-of-themonth delivery kit would be a huge hit with the home entertaining set.

Mexican flavors made with local ingredients are Antiguo Lobo signatures.

Entertain like an expert

AUTUMN ENTERTAINING TIPS FROM THE OWNER OF ADELINA SOCIAL GOODS

with spiced fig jam or wine-poached pears wrapped in prosciutto with a dollop of tangy bleu cheese.

Any advice for making fall gatherings feel extra-special? A favorite fall party spot for us is next to the fire pit. I’ll make homemade marshmallows in a few fun flavors like bourbon vanilla bean, blackberry black pepper or Luxardo cherry swirl and let friends roast them over the fire and sip hot cider spiked with bourbon. It’s an entirely make-ahead, low-maintenance party that everyone loves. Don’t forget to provide blankets and lots of wet wipes for cleanup. n

Being a star host is the name of the game at the Westside’s Adelina Social Goods, offering stationery, party supplies, gifts and home decor. The store has also launched the Adelina Cocktail Club, a monthly cocktail-of-the-month delivery kit that includes ingredients, barware and educational tips. Here, we chat with owner Sarah Noble about her entertaining tricks.

How can someone create a beautiful bar cart? Every bar cart should include one or two gorgeous decanters where you can store your most-used spirits; a cocktail shaker set and mixing glass; and a set of extraspecial glassware. We also keep a set of cocktail napkins handy, and we love to display craft bitters and a cocktail recipe book on our bar cart, too. The perfect finishing touch is a bud vase with a fresh-cut bloom to soften things up.

What do you recommend serving for a cozy evening? Fall entertaining is all about savoring the changing seasons and tucking into warm flavors. Serve simple foods with bold, spice-infused flavors like a great cheese board

Adelina Social Goods 404.565.1930 adelinasocialgoods.com @adelinasocial

SOUTH CITY KITCHEN’S MUST-MAKE SEASONAL DISH

For a warming fall dish, whip up this cozy Brussels sprouts recipe from South City Kitchen Buckhead Executive Chef Chip Ulbrich. Find more fall-forward dishes on the restaurant's menu, which now features new autumn additions.

Brussels Sprouts & Farm Egg

Serves 4

2 lbs Brussels sprouts, ends trimmed 4 large eggs 1 cup French’s Crispy Onions 1 tbsp sliced chives 3 tbsp miso paste 1 qt roasted vegetable stock

Peel and separate the Brussels sprouts leaves into a bowl. Rinse with cold water. Bring vegetable stock to a simmer and whisk in miso paste. Keep hot for serving. Fill a medium-sized pot 3/4 of the way with salted water and bring to a simmer. Crack eggs into the pot and poach for 3 minutes. Place sprouts leaves on the bottom of four large dinner bowls, pour 1 cup of broth over each, place 1 egg in the middle and top with crispy onions and chives.

South City Kitchen Buckhead 404.815.6677 southcitykitchen.com @southcitykitchen.atl

FOOD NEWS

n Restaurateur Jesús Oñate Jr., whose Atlanta concepts are Zapata, Taqueria on Broad and Monterrey of Marietta, recently opened his latest concept, Antiguo Lobo, in downtown Chamblee. The Mexican restaurant and tequila bar features cuisine made with primarily local ingredients, along with agave-based spirits and specialty cocktails. antiguolobo.com

n The team behind Buckhead's Mission + Market has opened a new Italian concept called Tre Vele in the former Three Sheets location in Sandy Springs. Specializing in handmade pasta, the restaurant features classic Italian dishes with a modern twist. treveleatl.com

Velvet Taco’s second Atlanta location is now open at The Interlock development in West Midtown. Like the restaurant’s Buckhead location, expect a diverse lineup of more than 20 creative tacos (think chicken and waffle, Korean fried rice and shrimp and grits). velvettaco.com