D R I NKS
l a c i g a M —And Often Misunderstood— Mezcal T
hanks to its versatility for making cocktails, mezcal has long been a favorite of cocktail enthusiasts and bartenders, and now it’s surging in general popularity. Frequently confused as merely a smoky sibling to tequila, mezcal is often misunderstood. Its unique qualities enable it to highlight different flavor spectrums of a drink. Similar to how all bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon, all tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila. In this case, both are made by distilling the core—called the piña—of the agave plant. Of more than 200 species of agave, about 40 can be used for mezcal production, but only blue agave can be used for tequila. Place matters, too. Ninety percent of mezcal is produced in Oaxaca in southwestern Mexico. Tequila is mainly made in the state of Jalisco (also where mariachi music originated). After harvest, the large, spiky leaves are sliced off, revealing the heart of the agave. Here is where the largest difference (and all the talk of smoke) comes in. The piñas need to be cooked to transform their starches. For most tequilas, this happens in ovens. In contrast, most mezcal piñas are arranged over red hot stones in wood-fired earthen pits, roasting for days and taking on the flavor of smoke. Both kinds of spirits undergo similar last stages of production, where the cores are crushed, fermented and distilled. Aging is what separates types of mezcal. Most fall into the Joven/
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October 2021 | Simply Buckhead
GET TO KNOW THE SPIRIT WITH A TASTE OF PLACE STORY:
Angela Hansberger
sweet and smoky Xicaru Mezcal and finished with a spicy kick of fresh ginger. If you’re truly an explorer of mezcal, look no further than Casi Cielo, which translates to “almost heaven.” The restaurant boasts the largest If it grows together, it goes Chido & Padre's kicks up La Llorona at Casi Cielo blends selection in Attogether. The Holy Elixir at Miller healthful ingredients with ginger the spice of three peppers with lanta with more Union combines mezcal and aloe and mezcal in El Bad Bunny. floral mezcal and bright lime juice liqueur for a desert experience. for a well rounded cocktail. than 80 options to choose from, including flights that arrive with house “Mexico calls mezcal, the beautifully Blanco/Silver categories that are made grasshopper salt, an earthy and crafted spirit that is such a part of un-aged or aged in stainless or herbal accoutrement. The verdant La the culture, its Holy Elixir,” she said plastic for fewer than two months. Llorona offers great expressions of of the drink’s naming. Reposado is mezcal aged in oak for vegetal, citrus and floral notes when Celebrating the food regions two to 12 months. Añejo is aged ordered with Banhez Joven Mezcal. of Oaxaca, Puebla and Sinaloa, Chido for more than one year in oak. The rich mix of mezcal, lime juice, & Padre’s has an extensive mezcal Mezcal’s taste is expressive of agave and list to accompany the homemade the process and the plant base with a pepper tortillas, moles and hand-smashed green, herbal notes and often a hint DETAILS puree of jalaguacamole. The cocktail program of smoke. At Westside’s Miller Union, peno, hababrings out the flavors of mezcal head bartender Angela Guthmiller Casi Cielo nero and servarieties in delightfully balanced adds another drought-tolerant 404.549.9411 casicielo.com rano comes beverages that are equally visually succulent into the mix. The Holy @casicieloatl rimmed with appealing. El Bad Bunny is a bright, Elixir cocktail fuses mezcal with the house made zingy mix that includes a traditional fresh scent and vegetal elements Chido & Padre’s 404.848.9100 chili powder. Dominican drink that is both of Chareau aloe liqueur along with chicoandpadres.com It’s a great nutritious and refreshing. Jugo de cucumber, basil and a celery @chidoandpadres match for zanahoria y naranja sounds unusual, shrub. Aloe adds a softness, brings Miller Union the eatery’s but it’s simply a blend of carrot out floral aromatics and hits off 678.733.8550 Oaxacaand orange juice, chock-full of the smoky body of mezcal, while millerunion.com inspired beta-carotene, B6, vitamin K and the other ingredients keep things @millerunionatl dishes. n vitamin C. It’s stirred together with lively, vivid and refreshing overall.
