JULY 2016
CELEBRATING AMERICAN EXCELLENCE IN MENSWEAR
Awards CALVIN KLEIN INC. JOSEPH ABBOUD MILTONS SAKS FIFTH AVENUE TRUNK CLUB VINEYARD VINES
Thank you to MR Magazine for the prestigious honor of GLOBAL BRAND OF THE DECADE
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SURVIVAL STRATEGY
Contemporary specialty stores are facing a slew of challenges in today’s marketplace— most notably, how to keep their doors open to customers.
Digital influencers Marcel Floruss and Nathan McCallum outside the Fortezza at Pitti Uomo's 50th edition."
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2016 MR AWARDS We salute six special honorees— Calvin Klein, Inc, Saks Fifth Avenue, Trunk Club, vineyard vines, Miltons and Joseph Abboud—on their continued commitment to American excellence.
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HOW ____ WORKS Agentry PR head honcho Erin Hawker takes us on a behind-the-scenes look at her office.
NYFW:M—THE SEQUEL Fashion Week isn’t ending completely; it’s evolving as brands refocus on the best way to present their new collections.
Contents
Also in this issue: 6 Editor’s Letter 8 Ones to Watch 14 Sceme 18 People 60 Fashion 2
MR JULY 2016 | MR-Mag.com
EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ______________________________________________________________________________________________Karen Alberg Grossman (212) 710-7422 KARENA@MR-MAG.COM MANAGING EDITOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________Brian Scott Lipton (212) 710-7459 BRIANL@MR-MAG.COM FASHION DIRECTOR ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Buckley (212) 710-7424 WILLIAMB@MR-MAG.COM WEB EDITOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Stephen Garner (212) 710-7436 STEPHENG@MR-MAG.COM COPY EDITOR ______________________________________________________________________________________________________Jillian LaRochelle (212) 710-7442 JILLIANL@BUSJOUR.COM EDITOR-AT-LARGE _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________Michael Macko MICHAELM@MR-MAG.COM CONTRIBUTING WRITER _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Kissel (805) 693-5838
ADVERTISING PUBLISHER EMERITUS _______________________________________________________________________________________________Stuart Nifoussi (212) 710-7407 STUNIFOO@MR-MAG.COM PUBLISHER ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin (212) 710-7414 LIZETTEC@MR-MAG.COM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER _____________________________________________________________________________________________Michelle Brown (212) 710-7413 MICHELLEB@MR-MAG.COM DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS __________________________________________________________________________________________Samuel Johnson (212) 710-7421 SAMUELJ@MR-MAG.COM ADVERTISING COORDINATOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________Donna Doyle (212) 710-7417 DONNAD@MR-MAG.COM
ART/PRODUCTION CREATIVE DIRECTOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Hans Gschliesser DESIGNER _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Joanne Kvaka DESIGNER __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Jean-Nicole Venditti DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Peggy Eadie EDITORIAL/SALES OFFICE _______________________________________________________________________________1384 BROADWAY, 11TH FL., NEW YORK, NY 10018 (212) 686-4412 FAX: (212) 686-6821 BUSINESS OFFICE __________________________________________________________________________________________________50 DAY STREET, NORWALK, CT 06854 (203) 853-6015 FAX: (203) 852-8175
ADVISORY BOARD Mario Bisio __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT, MARIO’S Wayne Drummond ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Doug Ewert_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________CEO, MEN’S WEARHOUSE Dan Farrington _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________GMM, MITCHELLS RETAIL GROUP David Fisher___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP/GMM, BLOOMINGDALE’S Ken Giddon___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________OWNER, ROTHMANS Jonathan Greller _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT, OUTLETS, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Tom Ott ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________VP/GMM, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE David Witman _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________EVP/GMM, NORDSTROM
BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC. CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Christine Sullivan VICE PRESIDENT, MENSWEAR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin
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MR ISSN 1049-6726 is published six times a year (January, February, April/May, July, August and November) by Business Journals, Inc. 50 Day Street, Norwalk, CT 06854. Periodical Postage paid at Norwalk, CT and at additional mailing office. Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 143678. Subscription for the U.S. $34 one year, $53 two years; Canada $63 one year, $95 two years (Canadian currency). Foreign $102, Air Mail. Single copies: U.S. $4.00; Foreign $4.00 plus postage. Claims for undelivered copies not honored after 30 days from publication (90 days for overseas). ©2016 Business Journals, Inc. Address correction requested. Postmaster send address changes to MR, P.O. Box 47370, Plymouth, MN 55447-0370. Printed in the USA.
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{ EDITORIAL }
AN INDUSTRY WITH SOUL
Especially in tough times, our menswear family comes through.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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PHOTO BY KEITH BARRACLOUGH PHOTOGRAPHY
AN ACRIMONIOUS election coupled with the worst mass shooting in U.S. history has made me a bit emotional these days. As a journalist, I know I’m supposed to be rational, focusing on facts rather than feelings. But after a quarter century in the menswear industry, I’ve come to appreciate a very special breed of people: concerned, caring, supportive, generous, some more than others of course, but as a group, exceptionally giving and kind. I felt it personally two years ago when I lost my daughter: the outpouring of love will be with me always. I see it now on Facebook: a colleague is struggling with a medical issue or a personal loss and hundreds of menswear friends are right there with comforting words of encouragement. I see it all the time at our various fundraising events. It’s what life is supposed to be about, and I’m both grateful and proud to be part of our amazingly compassionate industry. Always in our July issue of MR, we recognize a handful of business success stories. The joy for me this year is that our honorees are not just successful apparel execs, but also exceptional human beings. I’ve known Joseph Abboud for 26 years and he’s the real thing: talented, driven, eager to teach, willing to learn, genuine, generous and humble. His Lifetime Achievement Award could not be more well-deserved. And speaking of humility, Dana Katz of Miltons is another prime example. “My very wise father permitted me to make mistakes,” he tells us in our interview, explaining that over the years, he’s had to close five out of seven stores. “I realize one learns from mistakes; I just wish he hadn’t let me make so many.” For the past 18 years, Shep and Ian Murray of vineyard vines have been growing a lifestyle brand that has been widely imitated. Their message, “follow your dreams and have a good time,” drives everything they do and has enabled them to create a company that values employees over customers. Employee benefits include flex time, summer Fridays, a waterfront office with gym, tuition reimbursement and more. Says Shep, “We believe that to build a healthy business, you first need a satisfied team,” Calvin Klein CEO Steve Shiffman, one of our industry’s shining stars, credits his immigrant father (an engineer, architect, and artist) and first generation American mother (a teacher in NYC) for instilling in him strong values. Tom Ott of Saks Fifth Avenue, one of the most beloved and admired retailers in our industry, is as much a class act and friend as he is a great merchant and leader. Then there’s Brian Spaly, founder of Trunk Club, who I first met on an Eton trip to Sweden a few years back. A true visionary and one of the smartest guys I know, he never hesitates to share his knowledge with those who stand to benefit. To these industry icons and so many others, I thank you for your vision, your inspiration, and your willingness to impart your wisdom as we all blaze new trails.
Congratulations to Saks Fifth Avenue for consistent Excellence in Luxury Retailing
love
Congratulations Calvin Klein MR Magazine’s Global Brand of the Decade
{ ONES { CLOTHING } } TO WATCH
“We wanted to create a collection that has the ability to be in different places around the world at the same time.”
Well Traveled PALMIERS DU MAL
Brandon Capps and Shane Fonner, co-founders of modern luxury resort collection Palmiers du Mal, are on a mission to outfit the global traveler. So it’s only fitting that the designers—who have worked for Billy Reid, Maison Kitsuné and Saturdays Surf— look all over the world for inspiration in their work. “What we saw missing in the marketplace was a men’s resort collection,” says Fonner. “Being that we now live in a global society, consumers are traveling a lot more often. We wanted to create a collection that has the ability to be in different places around the world at the same time. Being able to transcend physical boundaries and be adaptable to our customer’s specific environment is important to us.” The brand’s second collection, to debut this fall in stores ranging from CHCM in New York to Le Bazaar in Mexico, borrows silhouettes from around the world and uses quality Japanese and Italian textiles. “The cloth and textiles we use are what dictate what the shape of the piece will be, and that’s what gets us excited,” says Fonner. Throughout the collection, which retails between $165 and $1,500, customers will also find cashmeres and very tailored items, next to lightweight linens and robeinspired outerwear. “The places where we are sold speak to the collection’s mindset,” adds Capps. “Selling to clients at a resort level and to metropolitan locations as well is great. We’d love to keep that dynamic, but we still have tremendous room for growth in markets like Miami, Los Angeles, and Western Europe. We’re excited to see what happens this upcoming season.” -—SG
We Are the Champions WE NORWEGIANS
In a world of here-today, gone-tomorrow brands, Tove Grane wants to ensure that her first foray into her own line will be around for years, if not decades. So her approach for every piece in her collection for We Norwegians is anything but disposable. “I really like the idea of creating a garment the same way an architect or industrial designer might work,” says Grane, who began the line in 2014. “I want to use good materials, I want to make it functional and I want it to stand the test of time.” Intriguingly, whether it’s a short-sleeve summer woven or a scarf, every piece in the collection is made from premium merino wool from Italy and can be worn allyear round. “There are qualities that you might not think of with wool. But once you touch these clothes, you realize they are not just contemporary and comfortable, but they also contain all the good stuff ‘traditional’ wool garments have,” she notes. Grane usually adds two or three new colors every season, along with some new patterns; but that doesn’t mean you should replace what you already own. ”I have always loved basic garments that you can wear and style in different ways season after season,” she says. So it’s hardly surprising to Grane that the brand is already taking off in America “Norwegians are both practical and active people, and I feel we are more similar to Americans in that way than some of our fellow Europeans,” she says -—BSL
“Once you touch these clothes, you realize they are not just contemporary and comfortable, but they also contain all the good stuff of ‘traditional’ wool garments.” 10
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COMMITTED TO TRADITION Platinum-plated writing instruments with ornate uted barrels in dark brown Grenadilla, black matte Ebony or red-brown Pernambuco wood.
F ! "# $" > > &&& ! % ! "# > &&& ! "# Contact: Sheila Hopkins - Sheila@FaberCastell.com
%/7/8 97 (8 MRKET > The Jacob Javits Center, NYC > 91< > (11 448.
{ ONES { CLOTHING } } TO WATCH
California Comfort SWEAT TAILOR
Everything that one-year-old brand Sweat Tailor produces has to pass the test of comfort, fashion, and versatility. That may explain the growing success of this made-inLos Angeles brand, which was founded by David Kranz and Adam Bolden to produce the perfect pant. Not only have they created one that combines the sizing and fit of a tailored pant or jean with the comfort of sweatpants, but Sweat Tailor has since expanded its offerings to include chinos, shorts, polos, sweatshirts, henleys and T-shirts (Retails $44 to $119). “Every time we do a trunk show the sales go through the roof because our customers can try the product on, which was one of the obstacles we met with launching initially online,” says Bolden. “But our referral business has been awesome and our wholesale account base is growing. Guys have been responding well.” The brand’s number one seller is still its breakthrough five-pocket pant. “Our fivepocket is made from custom-engineered cotton spandex fabric blended into our secret recipe,” adds Bolden. “We currently stock it in five colorways and it remains our breadand-butter.” So what’s next for Sweat Tailor? “We will be joining the MRket show’s new MOVE section this July,” says Kranz. “We’re excited to be in the presence of other active and active-friendly sportswear brands. Adam and I are also working on launching pop-ups around the country this fall in L.A., San Francisco, NYC and possibly Chicago.” —SG
“Our five-pocket is made from custom-engineered cotton spandex fabric blended into our secret recipe.”
Shades of Gray MICHAEL BASTIAN GRAY LABEL
This new line, launching in spring 2017, will have the same indelible spirit and attitude of the Michael Bastian collection but at much more accessible price points. 12
MR JULY 2016 | MR-Mag.com
Good taste and good design are not exclusive to one price tier. Designer Michael Bastian will reach a much broader audience of men with the introduction of the Michael Bastian Gray Label collection. This new line, launching in spring 2017, will have the same indelible spirit and attitude of the Michael Bastian collection but at much more accessible price points. “This is something I’ve always wanted to do since I started 10 years ago,” says Bastian. “To me, this is how a designer’s brand should evolve. You have the luxury line at the top that launches first, and then you add a mid-tier line that is accessible to more consumers. I’m so proud of this collection, and I can’t wait for consumers to get their hands on it.” The new label was made possible in part by the recent majority investment in the company made by Bluestar Alliance. While Bastian notes that his collection is all made by different licensees, it will come together to form one cohesive collection. “We will offer dress shirts, shoes, tailored clothing, neckwear, and small leather goods for this first upcoming season,” says Bastian. (Retail prices should sit between $125 and $195 for dress shirts, $795 and $1,295 for suits and $150 to $300 for shoes.) To get a first look at the new Michael Bastian Gray label, be sure to stop by the BMG Imports booth at MRket NY. A larger presence will be made available at the Project show in Las Vegas. —SG
n ew yo r k
J U LY 1 7-1 9, 2 0 1 6 Jaco b Jav i ts C e n t e r
l a s v ega s
AU G U ST 1 5 -1 7, 2 0 1 6 M a n da l ay B ay Co n v e n t i o n C e n t e r
R e g i s t e r N ow » at t e n d m ag i c .C o m @ P R O J E C T S H O W
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UP, UP AND AWAY
Whether you’ve spent a long day walking a trade show floor, sitting in a stifling office, or standing in the middle of a store, you’ll be ready to end the workday at these remarkably relaxing spots for drinking, dining, and de-stressing! BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON 1. THE SKYLARK This gorgeous getaway nestled 30 floors above the hustle and bustle of midtown, developed by nightlife impesario David Rabin, offers both indoor and outdoor spaces with spectacular views of the city. Equally dazzling are such summery cocktails (by mixologist Johnny Swet) as the Key Lime Swizzle, the Caramelized Pineapple Mojito, and King Kong Capirinha, all of which pair well with such truly tempting bites as shrimp and corn beignets, tuna wonton tacos, and, wait for it, mac and cheese cupcakes. Yum! (200 West 39th Street. 212-257-4577).
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Rooftop bars and lounges can make the troubles of the day feel a million miles away! 2.
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2. MONARCH ROOFTOP LOUNGE This three-year-old hotspot, featuring 5,000 square feet of both interior and exterior space, would be worth a visit just for its bird’s-eye view of the nearby Empire State Building. But you’ll want to sit (or stand) awhile. How else can you sample mixologist Genesse DeBeaux’s heavenly creations, such as the Lychee Peachee, Red in Bed or Mexican Sunset, which go perfectly with chef Daniel Billheimer’s luscious light fare, which ranges from lobster rolls and crab cakes to green pea hummus and a variety of flatbreads. It’s an experience fit for any urban king or queen. (71 West 35th Street. 212-630-9993). 3.GALLOW GREEN The Garden of Eden is no myth; it exists right here in New York on the roof of the mysterious McKittrick Hotel (home of the theatrical phenomenon Sleep No More). After you settle into this tranquil tree-filled aerie, you’ll be tempeted to indulge in the fruit of the vine (as well as large selection of beers and specialty cocktails). If your taste buds are tingling, fear not. There are many delicious dinner options, ranging from Caesar salad and heirloom carrots to crispy suckling pig and charred octopus. (542 West 27th Street. 212-564-1662). 4.BRYANT PARK GRILL ROOFTOP Odds are if you live in Gotham (or have visited more then once), you’ve already been to the Bryant Park Grill, one of midtown’s prettiest (if priciest) eateries. But you probably went without ever knowing what’s right above your head. You enter the rooftop bar through a stairway in the back, and in just seconds, you feel like you’re above the clouds (not to mention above the crowds). And whether you’re a single come to mingle or a part of a group who want to dine, being perched atop this oasis will make the day’s troubles feel very far away. (25 West 40th Street. 212-768-4242).
THIS DOG HUNTS
© 2016 Southern Proper
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ONLY IN NEW YORK
Summertime in the Big Apple means you can bask in (and sometimes bake in) the sort of sizzling entertainment that simply can’t be experienced anyplace else in the world. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
Music and mayhem, high notes and high kicks; it’s all at your fingertips! 1.
KEVIN YATAROLA
1. LINCOLN CENTER OUT OF DOORS This annual celebration of global music, held at Lincoln Center’s lovely Damrosch Park, brings us unforgettable performances by some of the world’s finest artists--all for free! This year’s lineup begins with a bang on July 20 as legendary poetess and rock goddess Patti Smtih (left) is joined by musical collaborators Lenny Kaye and Tony Shanahan, as well as special guests Mariachi Flor de Yolache. Additional don’t-miss events include concerts by South African vocal ensemble Ladysmith Black Mambazo (July 21), the Mostly Mozart Festival Orchestra (July 22), R&B great Darlene Love (July 23), Broadway’s Maurice Hines (July 28), and dance superstar Soledad Barrio (August 3). (For a complete schedule or for more information, visit www.LCOutofDoors.org).
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TAMMYSHELL
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2. SHAKESPEARE IN THE PARK: For more than 50 years, the beautiful Delacorte Theatre smack in the middle of Central Park has been home to the Public Theater’s free Shakespeare in the Park series, giving millions of audience members joy, and maybe their first introduction to the works of the Bard of Avon. Even the most seasoned Shakesperean lover, however, may never have seen Troilus and Cressida (July 19-August 14), a love story set against the atrocities of the Trojan War. Given the credentials of Tony-winning director Daniel Sullivan, who has assembled a superb cast of newcomers (including the equally beautiful Andrew Burnap and Ismenia Mendes in the title roles) and seasoned pros (including Max Casella, John Glover, David Harbour, Corey Stoll and John Douglas Thompson), there’s probably no time like the present to join the ranks. (For more information, visit www.publictheater.org). 3. THE NEW YORK SPECTACULAR Few theaters in the world match the grandeur and brilliance of Radio City Music Hall, and no group of dancers in the world match the precision of the Radio City Rockettes. These leggy, lovely ladies are the main attraction for Radio City’s newest theatrical offering, The New York Spectacular, a multi-media showcase choreographed by the always inventive Mia Michaels (of So You Think You Can Dance fame). This family-friendly outing, featuring a book by the hilarious Douglas Carter Beane, will provide a journey through the Big Apple, stopping at some of the city’s most iconic landmarks, and giving us a never-before-seen glimpse at some larger-than-life statues, including Lady Liberty and the Wall Street Bull. (Tickets are available through August 7 by calling 866-858-8007).
MRket — Javits Center ANTHIME MOULEY BREUER L’AIGLON LORDS&FOOLS MAISON F
PROJECT — Javits Center LA SQUADRA VICOMTE A
CAPSULE — Pier 92 1789 CALA 18 WAIT ARPENTEUR ARMORLUX BASUS CUISSE DE GRENOUILLE JAGVI L’EGOISTE LES GARÇONS FACILES TOKA-TOKA
MAN — 540 West 21st Street BLEU DE PANAME
LIBERTY FAIRS — Pier 94 ELEVEN PARIS HARTFORD MBM PAUL & JOE
July 10-12 - July, 17-19
www.promas-international.fr
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Show Business
ample, our recent “Swim Lessons” events in NYC and LA featured numerous experts (in logistics, legal, retail, etc) who shared their experience with both young companies entering the market and more established brands. By leveraging the collective knowledge of UBM and BJI, we can bring more content to the show floors.
UBM is an events company not a publishing company: what does that mean for MR magazine and mr-mag.com? “Events First” does not mean “Events Only”. We are delighted to have MR and MR-mag.com as quality vehicles for more regular communication with our exhibitors and retailers. We value the magazine’s emphasis on industry issues and look forward to building on this focus, especially as these issues impact our exhibitors and retailers.
UBM President of Men’s Erik Ulin discusses the future of men’s trade shows. By Karen Alberg Grossman
In April, events company UBM bought BJI (owner of MR and MRket). So we decided to ask Erik Ulin, UBM’s President of Men’s, for his thoughts on the acquisition and its effects on trade shows and the magzine.
We listen to our retailers and brands who have been wanting a more consolidated market show for some time now. MRket is a very complementary show to Project, both in Las Vegas and NYC. The consolidation will make it a better experience for buyers, who will now save time, money and stress going back and forth (needing only one pass), and for exhibitors, who will get to see more buyers. In Las Vegas especially, the proximity of MRket to Project at Mandalay Bay opens up a whole cadre of opportunity for traditional retailers to explore and develop contemporary product for a new generation of customers. Both Project and MRket are great brands and our goals include building on the strengths of each.
In this disruptive era for retailers and wholesalers, how might your trade shows help solve their problems? We are aggressively expanding our calendar of events and seminars. We’re clearly in the midst of an industry shake-up and we view our trade shows as platforms not only for doing business but also for exchanging ideas so both retailers and exhibitors can learn and improve their businesses. Toward that end, we will be doing more events not only at shows but also in between them. For ex-
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What else should MR readers know about UBM? We’re a global, public company based in London and we’re very entrepreneurial: personal initiatives are encouraged and supported throughout the organization. In other words, we’re a big company that acts like a small company. We’re very community-minded with core values that include an agile growth model, customer insight and innovation, operational excellence, standardized technology and a high performance culture. These are genuine pillars of our business, not just lip service.
Could you tell us a little about yourself? I headed up J. Lindeberg U.S.A. for more than four years. Since I’m fresh off being an exhibitor (at The Tents at Project), I can empathize with the various issues and problems that brands deal with in this changing environment. I’m also a runner: I ran my first NYC marathon this past November in three hours and 14 minutes! In Las Vegas between 5:30 and 6:30 a.m., you’ll usually find me running five to six miles on the strip. It’s fun to see everyone coming back from their night-time partying and very cool to exchange nods of respect with the five or six other brave runners I pass. (I say brave because it’s already 90 degrees on these August mornings.) I find these early morning runs a perfect time for meditation before the trade show madness.
PHOTO BY KEITH BARRACLOUGH PHOTOGRAPHY
Why did UBM buy Business Journals and what will this mean for men’s trade shows going forward?
congratulatÄąons
from your partners at
{ RETAILING }
he past decade has taught us that as the By MICHAEL MACKO world has evolved, menswear retailing has had to follow suit. Since the economic shakedown of 2008, men are not getting as dressed up as they once did. In fact, some do not need to dress up at all, as many now work as freelancers or consultants. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, in 2014, 23 percent of employed persons did some or all of their work from home. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more, social media and internet shopping have made the world smaller, as we can now buy virtually anything anywhere. But at the same time, men are shopping more, spending more and are more interested in how they look. Fortunately for our industry, despite the precarious economy and an unstable world, new guard retailers have much opportunity to capture a new generation of shoppers. The tricky part appears to be figuring out how. In the past few years, many contemporary stores with great product and seemingly viable
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business models have been struggling or have already closed their doors. Take Carson Street (the store that I considered the epitome of new guard menswear with top labels including Michael Bastian and Missoni and an equally exclusive customer base). In January of this year, Carson Street moved from their original 1,000-square-foot location on Crosby Street to a bright airy loft on Greene Street, thereby tripling their selling space. A M A N DA K HO
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Retailingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new guard gets serious about staying in business.
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Moreover, by focusing less on tailored clothing and more on selling exclusive, narrowly distributed contemporary designer brands such as Lou Dalton, Craig Green, Rare Weaves and Visvim, they seemed to have created a winning strategy. (They also dropped “Clothiers” from their name.) Then in February, co-founder Brian Trunzo along with partner Matt Breen launched Deveaux, their own take on a designer collection that they planned to retail and wholesale. In early spring, Trunzo unexpectedly announced he was leaving; shortly after, the store announced it would be closing at the end of June. When I recently sat down with Trunzo — now a consultant himself — in the garden of Saturdays, a surfinspired sportswear shop just a few blocks from the original Carson Street location, I asked what he considered the biggest challenge facing emerging retailers. “You need to stay true to who you are as you evolve, and make sure your customer evolves with you,” he responded. Although Trunzo hates the word ‘omni-channel,’ he feels that e-commerce and technology are crucial to today’s retailing. (He is actually consulting with the PROJECT Show on a retail technology segment for July and August.) I mention that as a customer, I was most impressed to receive emails from my Carson Street sales associate telling me about a new collection from my favorite designer and asking if he could email a look book or link to the designer’s runway show. Trunzo agreed that “technology can’t be used to replace customer service, but it should be used as a tool to enhance it.” I asked Trunzo what advice he would give to a retailer just starting out today. He responded without hesitation: “Be yourself. Don’t chase trends. And hire a Special Projects or Experiential Director.” We also discussed how retailers today cannot simply sell clothes; they need other ways to keep customers entertained and coming back. Store owners have so much to focus on (buying, selling. running the store) that this Experiential Director is now a critical role. When I asked Trunzo if it was a challenge getting brands to sell Carson Street, he responded without hesitation. “Initially not at all, but as we evolved into the designer world it became more of a challenge, especially brands that were already selling to other retailers downtown, or who were contemplating opening their own stores,” he said. Mark Cho, Alan See and Ethan Newton opened The Armoury in Hong Kong in 2010, where they now have two locations. In 2013, they opened a third location in Tribeca. Their retail mantra was to sell products with exceptional craftsmanship, outstanding design and timeless style. They have a true passion for classic menswear and hope to share this passion with others. The store carries such brands as Ascot Chang, Borsalino, Drake’s, Fox Umbrellas, Frank Clegg, Liverano & Liverano, Nackymade, Rimowa and Ring Jacket.
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I asked Cho, who is in Japan on a buying trip, about the key challenges facing this new guard of better men’s retailers. “The biggest one is exposure,” he said. “Exposure can come from a number of different places, all of which require time, effort and money.” Cho’s three pillars are “physical exposure (i.e. a good location), a strong social media presence and effective advertising. “Retail is as much about a customer’s time and experience in the store as it is about the products he walks out the door with,” said Cho. “Building a wardrobe is an enjoyable experience, but it competes with numerous other enjoyable options in a person’s life.” Brand exclusivity is a big concern for The Armoury, Cho admitted. “I worry about over-saturation, both brand availability and over-distribution (the number of stores that sell the same stuff ). In the long term, as shops become more homogeneous, they’re under more pressure to compete solely on price. This is ultimately bad news for everyone.” Clearly, the current retail environment is challenging, due to oversaturation of brands, too many stores, and tech-savvy customers who purchase everything online at the best price. But for every Scoop that shuts down and Carson Street that closes suddenly, a Spruce opens in Chicago or there’s a new Magasin in Culver City or Stag in Texas and California. The retail pendulum swings both ways, and fortunately, there are still opportunities, especially in under-saturated markets, for merchants who are creative, nimble and willing to provide a unique shopping experience.
You need to stay true to who you are as you evolve, and make sure your customer evolves with you.” – BRIAN TRUNZO, CO-FOUNDER, CARSON STREET
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#NYFWM – What’s Next
As panicked predictions prevail about the end to Fashion Week as we know it, the real changes will be much more measured. BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY
We can all point fingers at who started the so-called end of Fashion Week, but Burberry, who was among the first major companies to pull out of these recently revived dedicated men’s weeks in London, does have a point. Folks who truly like fashion love seeing the collections presented at the seasonal shows in real time, through social media such as Snap Chat and Instagram, but by the time the piece is available to buy, the customer is already over it. So Burberry changed the game by deciding to present collections (both men’s and women’s) that will be essentially seasonless, with product available to buy immediately after the show—and others have followed suit. For many brands, rolling both women’s and men’s into a single show has much less to do with aligning the runway and retail calendars,
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and probably more to do with budgets. If you have both men’s and women’s collections, showing two separate shows takes resources that can be used, if at all, for better purposes. So why all the doom and gloom? While some naysayers hang out at every industry event spreading their own personal gospel and spewing every garbled, ill-informed tidbit they’ve ever heard, the CFDA’s CEO Steven Kolb believes the situation isn’t really so serious. “It’s actually very simple. The way it works is as follows: in July, the industry will be showing spring, but the retail season is moving into fall, so two things have to happen at the same time,” he explains. “The designers still have to show spring to the trade, to the buyers and to the longlead press, but this can be in a scaled back,
intimate setting, where those images that come out of that presentation are perhaps embargoed and aren’t shown to the public. That’s something that the editors and buyers we’ve talked to are very comfortable with. The designer might agree that five looks from that collection can be released as a teaser or a way to kind of create some preview or excitement. At the same time, marketing money from the big show or activation that has been traditionally done only for trade, will be used to create a more consumer-driven opportunity, showing clothes that are close to in-store or actually in-store at that time. I think some people get confused and think that this incredible opportunity to gather menswear designers in one place for presentations and runway shows will go away, but what’s happening is
{ FASHION }
simply a refocus on the way some brands are talking to their customers and the industry.” Adds Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman: “I certainly think we are in a time of flux, where designers are closely analyzing the great investments that, both monetary and creatively, they put into showing their lines seasonally. I think each house is looking to optimize its return, to find the best, most effective way to get their seasonal message out there, for the industry and for consumers, and the solutions will vary distinctively from brand to brand. So while it’s true that some of the big names like Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein have taken a hiatus from doing runway shows this season,menswear designer Todd Snyder isn’t going anywhere. “There’s definitely a shift happening, but of course, we’re continuing on with New York Fashion Week: Men’s, because it’s such a beneficial initiative for everyone involved,” he says. “First of all, it took forever to get this dedicated men’s week up and running. It was a huge undertaking involving Steven Kolb, Jim
Moore, Tommy Fazio and all the designers. Every season has been incredible for us, so for us to walk away makes no sense. We get so many impressions from that single event, but we will move to make it more inclusive, so this season we’re adding a shop-now capsule.” Still, Snyder readily admits that the economics of participating in Fashion Week can be prohibitive for some smaller brands. “The
of that, and everyone benefits.” Reece Crisp, menswear buying manager at Farfetch, also sees a bright future ahead. “Yes, fashion weeks will develop, and new ways of showcasing collections will emerge. Brands that do this first and in the most innovative ways will be the ones that succeed. The industry itself is about change, so it’s important that brands think about this holistically when it comes to showcasing their collections. “Theory and practicalityin fashion are two very contrasting forces.,” adds Crisp. “This is where innovation and new ways of thinking come in to play. The cycle in general is not as easy to change as some people seem to think, but being agile and not restricting yourself to one single strategy means brands will be able to continue to drive demand and create excitement.”
What’s happening is simply a refocus on the way some brands are talking to their customers and the industry.” — STEVEN KOLB, CEO, CFDA fact is, doing these shows on your own is prohibitively expensive,” he says. “Just the lights alone for a show cost tens of thousands of dollars. When we all come together we can share those costs so more people can take advantage
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Special Advertorial Section
ITALY@
{ ITALIAN { CLOTHING }} MADE IN STYLE ITALY
MR Magazine takes a look at the brands of Made In Italy at the MRket NY show scheduled for Sunday, July 17 to Tuesday, July 19, 2016 at the Javits Center in New York City.
BELTS + DI PIAZZA STEFANO BOOTH 133
Belts
ITALO FERRETTI BOOTH 247
Ties, Pocket Squares, Scarves
MONTECHIARO IMPULSO BOOTH 150
Basic, Classic, Fancy Knitwear
TACCALITI SHIRTS BOOTH 136
Shirts and Made to Measure
ALESSANDRO GHERARDI BOOTH 229
Sartorial Shirts
GIANNI GALLUCCI ATELIER BOOTH 336
Luxury Shoes
MALEDETTI TOSCANI BOOTH 346
Leather Wear. Leathergoods, Shoes
MISTERNIC BOOTH 248
Knitwear in precious yarns
FLANNEL BAY BOOTH 134
Hand Made Tailored Clothes
GIMOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BOOTH 125
Outerwear
DI BELLO BY NIPAL BOOTH 146
Outerwear
JULY 2016 MRKETNY
LUCIANO MORESCO BOOTH 227
Total look
ZANNI BOOTH 252
Shoes
GALLIA BOOTH 324
Shirts
ALESSANDRO SIMONI TELERIA ZED BOOTH 352
Pants
BOOTH 334
Luxe cashmere and Merino knitwear
FC UNIVERSE BOOTH 253
Formal and Informal Total look
PAOLO ALBIZZATI BOOTH 232
Ties, Scarves, Pocket Squares
PAOLO VITALE 070 STUDIO-LANDI
BOOTH 350
Hand made belts
BOOTH 128
Outerwear
VITALIANO BOOTH 126
Ties and Accessories
CALABRESE 1924 BOOTH 237
Bags
JULY 2016 MRKETNY
ITALWEAR/ANDREA BOSSI BOOTH 233
BRESCIANI 1970 BOOTH 124
High quality socks
Shirts, Sweaters, shoes
RENCO MILANO BIG AND TALL BOOTH 235
Total Look
ZENOBI BOOTH 348
Shoes
SILVIO FIORELLO BOOTH 137
Neckwear, Pocket Square
FABIO DEI VELAPAZZA BOOTH 251
Total look, Knitwear, Accessories
GIOSBRUN ROMA PARIOLI BOOTH 246
Jackets, Shirts, Accessories
MILANO140 BOOTH 325
Lifestyle and casual wear
DOLCEPUNTA BOOTH 225 Sartorial Ties, Scarves, Pocket Squares
BOREAN MEN'S COUTURE
FILIPPO DE LAURENTIIS
BOOTH 148
BOOTH 234
Sartorial Ties, Scarves, Pocket Squares
Knitwear in precious yarns
JULY 2016 MRKETNY
GALLOTTI BOOTH 328
Outerwear, Rainwear
MONTALIANI BOOTH 236
Shirts and Made to Measure
ARCURI TIES BOOTH 228
Hand made Ties and Scarves
ALPETORA/G. MANZONI BOOTH 147
Suiting
CALIBAN BOOTH 129
Shirts
UMBERTO VALLATI BOOTH 135
FLY3
Knitwear in precious yarns
BOOTH 132
Seamless, Reversible, Two-tone Knitwear
PASOTTI
MARCHESI DI COMO
BOOTH 343
BOOTH 332
Luxury Umbrellas, Shoe Horns
Shirting, Ties, Pocket Squares, Scarves
BRETELLE & BRACES MON ART BOOTH 250
Accessories, cufflinks
BOOTH 326
Suspenders, Belts, Pocket Squares, Bow Ties
HMS and Gladson congratulate Tom Ott
Luxury Retail Excellence Award
Joseph Abboud Lifetime Achievement Award
Brian Spaly
Online Retail Excellence Award
... and all the honorees
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TRUNK CLUB PROFILES
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE
CALVIN KLEIN INC.
JOSEPH ABBOUD
VINEYARD VINES
inEXCELLENCE MILTONS
MR
AWARDS
2016
MR MAGAZINE SALUTES
American Excellence in Menswear A Joseph Abboud
Calvin Klein Inc.
Trunk Club
Saks Fifth Avenue
Vineyard Vines
VINEYARD VINES
KLEIN JOSEPH INC. ABBOUD
SAKS FIFTH CALVIN AVENUE
lthough fashion operates in a global universe, we are delighted, in this issue and at our MR Awards dinner on July 18th, to honor six American companies that have adhered to the highest standards in manufacturing, merchandising and marketing men’s fashion. Saks Fifth Avenue, our luxury retail honoree, has recently focused on upscale menswear with a modern sensibility, investing in its stores, its sellers and its product to provide the ultimate shopping experience. Calvin Klein Inc, our Global Brand of the Decade, has been a presence in our lives for nearly 50 years. Under the direction of CEO Steve Shiffman, they plan to evolve from a global fashion brand to a global lifestyle powerhouse. About 18 years ago, two young guys from the suburbs quit their financial jobs in the city to sell some ties on Martha’s Vineyard. Shep and Ian Murray, founders of Vineyard Vines, share some tips on creating a successful lifestyle brand and staying relevant. Miltons is a two-unit menswear store in the Boston area with moderate to better goods, value pricepoints, impact presentations, an exceptional team and a very loyal following. Dana Katz keeps it all together and shares some secrets. With its focus on customized assortments and personalized service. Trunk Club created a whole new way of shopping that has been imitated but not equaled. Brian Spaly explains his concept and Pete Nordstrom tells why he bought the company. With years of devotion to the menswear industry, Lifetime Achievement honoree Joseph Abboud continues to design, manufacture and retail beautiful men’s clothing with unsurpassed expertise and passion. We salute all our winners, and thank them for keeping American on top.
Miltons
MILTONS
TRUNK CLUB
TAILORED BRANDS CONGRATULATES JOSEPH ABBOUD ON THE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD Thank you to MR Magazine for this incredible honor and recognition.
FLAGSHIP STORE MADISON AVE & 49TH ST | JOSEPHABBOUD.COM
{ GLOBAL BRAND OF THE DECADE }
The EMOTIONAL Connection Calvin Klein CEO Steve Shiffman explains the power of the brand through almost 50 years. By KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
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ust as Calvin Klein is a unique kind of brand, influencing American (and now global) culture for almost five decades and generating, in 2015, an impressive $8.2 billion in sales, so too is Steve Shiffman a unique kind of CEO. Says PVH chairman Manny Chirico, “Steve Shiffman is a highenergy, customer-focused leader who has delivered outstanding results in every position he has held. He had worked at PVH for more than 20 years before being promoted to this CEO position and has been a key senior executive in the transition of PVH over the last decade. With his experience and proven track record, Steve is the ideal executive to lead our Calvin Klein business forward.” Here, we chat with Shiffman about the past, present and future of Calvin Klein Inc.
What do you think has accounted for the success of the Calvin Klein brand to this point in time? Calvin Klein has been a significant presence in people’s lives for almost 50 years. From the very beginning, the brand has consistently changed the way people feel about themselves and the world around them. Calvin’s first jeans ad featured a 15-year-old Brooke Shields. The ad provoked enormous controversy. But importantly, it did something else: It made us think about what Brooke was feeling. The touch of denim on soft skin. Sexy? Sure. But sensuous too. In 1982, we put an underwear ad on a billboard in Times Square and turned men’s underwear into a fashion statement virtually overnight. Great fashion is like great architecture: it compels us to experience the world differently. Mr. Klein was heavily
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{ GLOBAL BRAND OF THE DECADE }
Calvin Klein’s first jeans ad featured a 15-year-old Brooke Shields. The ad provoked enormous controversy. But importantly, it did something else — it made us think about what Brooke was feeling.”
influenced by both fashion and architectural design and built the brand on timeless principles that provoke both physical and emotional sensations. Great brands, enduring brands, make people feel more alive. Our willingness to encourage people to fully explore their senses has been at the heart of Calvin Klein’s longevity. It will always be a big part of how we connect to the world.
When PVH bought Calvin Klein in 2003, what was the strategy and how did it evolve? You took over from Tom Murry in 2014—what changes did you make? When PVH bought Calvin Klein, it was an acknowledgement that the brand represented untapped potential. PVH showed early on that they completely understood what makes Calvin Klein unique, and they continue to invest heavily to support our evolution and our growth. Under Tom Murry’s leadership, the company grew from $2.8 billion in global retail sales in 2003 to $7.6 billion in 2012 — culminating in PVH’s acquisition of Warnaco, which allowed us to become one company again, designers and supply chain sitting under one roof. That’s
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been critical as we establish Calvin Klein as a truly global business. My job is to deepen and widen that mission, to take us from a global fashion brand to becoming a leading global lifestyle brand. That requires significant investment in both talent and technology, and a seamless marriage between the two. It also requires that we hold ourselves to our own highest standards, that we take the things that made Calvin Klein a household name — originality, courage, empathy, sensitivity — and lean into them with an unwavering commitment to make the lives of our consumers richer and more vibrant. That’s what this brand deserves and what our customers deserve.
With the exit of designers Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli, what is your new strategy? In today’s world, the consumer is bombarded by limitless questions and choices. Who do we want to be, which values do we want to uphold, with which communities do we want to be associated? In the midst of all that, I think great brands represent a constancy in people’s lives. There’s a lot of talk today about 360-degree brands. But I don’t think people want brands in every aspect of their lives. I’m not sure you want Calvin
{ GLOBAL BRAND OF THE DECADE } Klein in your refrigerator, for instance, or Apple in your underwear. But I do think consumers want 365-day brands. Brands they can depend on every day. Brands that understand them and brands they can understand. I came to the conclusion that to be a 365-day brand we need to have a single creative vision running through the DNA of the company. This single ‘thread’ will give consumers confidence that, even when we’re encouraging them to experience the world more fully, we’re doing it from a place they can trust. A place that is familiar even while it is provocative. I think that is Calvin Klein at its best.
According to a recent article in The New York Times, American fashion has been fairly stagnant since the 1980s. The Big Three (Ralph, Calvin, Donna) have lost their power but no one has come along to replace them. Do you agree? America has contributed enormously to the world of fashion over the last 50 years, and none more so than the three talented icons you mention. Each of these designers has left an indelible mark, not just on fashion but on culture. Over any long-term cycle, it’s inevitable that every business will go through periods of success and periods of reinvention. You work very hard to ensure that the successful times last significantly longer than the others. We’re committed to being a driving force behind both American and global fashion. Over the past 50 years, Calvin Klein has had an enormous influence, not just on fashion but on culture. We intend for that to be true 50 years from now.
At less than five percent of the Calvin business, Collection has been a halo but not meaningful to top or bottom line. How do you change this? Investment in world-class talent. Over the last few months we’ve added a new President for the business, a Chief Operating Officer based in our European headquarters, and new heads of Sales and Merchandising. They are veterans in the luxury fashion industry and bring us the expertise to drive both the art and commerce of the collection business. We will also grow Collection via our company-wide commitment to delivering exceptional design that creates value for our customers. Economic value, of course, but also value in the way they feel about themselves and their lives. And the better we do that, the better the return on
investment of time and talent.
Your assessment of the current tenuous state of retail: what’s needed to turn things around? I think the ground on which retail takes place has shifted. Mostly online. That means we have to engage with our customers on their terms, through channels that matter to them. The store experience is still very important, but we also have to provide new kinds of shopping experiences. That might mean virtual reality, it might mean relationship management software, it might mean personal shoppers through apps. We and our partners have to understand what today’s consumers want from a modern brand and make sure we’re meeting and exceeding those expectations.
What are your thoughts on attracting millennials, that elusive generation not necessarily inspired by the same values as previous generations? It has become fashionable to separate out ‘millennials’ as a different kind of consumer. But the fact is that every generation emphasizes some values more than others. There are six different generations alive in America today, from the GI Generation through the Mature/Silents, the Baby Boomers, Gen X, Millennials and Gen Z. Successful brands have to build meaningful connections through multiple demographics and we’re proud that we’ve both inspired and been inspired by each successive generation. I believe our success is that we’ve managed to speak to each successive generation on its own terms.
I’d love to conclude with some lessons you’ve learned from any mentors or role models you’ve encountered. A wise man once wrote, “simplicity and elegance should be applied to everything.” That wise man is my father. He is still with us, and still wise. He and my mother have been my biggest influences. They taught me to have values and to live by them. In the day-to-day running of a multi-billion dollar global business, it’s easy to lose sight of what’s important to you. I constantly remind myself of my values. They help me to make sure I’m creating an environment that allows talented people to fulfill their potential. They also help me to make sure that together, we’re growing a business that delivers extraordinary results for all of our constituents: customers, consumers, partners, employees and shareholders.
Steve Shiffman
Up Close & Personal I was born in New York City. My mother is a first-generation American and taught in the New York City school system for 50 years. My father is an immigrant who came here when he was 15. He was an engineer by trade, but an architect and artist by love. I would often go into the city with my parents and spend many hours at the Met and Guggenheim museums. They love art, as do I. Everything in our house was midcentury modern and
was influenced by the great modern designers of the time. My father designed his first home in 1968 – coincidentally, the same year that Calvin Klein was founded. When I graduated college, I took a job as a social worker for the state of Massachusetts, working with mental health patients, which had a profound effect on me, personally and professionally. It reinforced what I already believed — that all of us need the same things: to be heard, cared
“All of us need the same things: to be heard, cared for and respected.” about and respected. After that, I took a job working at Bloomingdales as a sales person for Christmas, and then I went to Macy’s
and spent 10 years helping to develop many of the private label programs that exist today. I came to PVH 24 years ago, and nine years ago Manny Chirico and Tom Murry asked me to take over the Calvin Klein retail business. I’m grateful to have received tremendous, continual support from Manny and our Board of Directors since I joined Calvin Klein. Throughout the nine years I’ve been here, Calvin has always felt different.
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{ BEST LUXURY RETAILER } The inside of Saks Fifth Avenue will look very different by 2019, thanks to a $250 million renovation that will include a branch of the Parisian restaurant L’Avenue.
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the new LUXURY
ust its name, Saks Fifth Avenue, conjures up visions of shopping on one of the world’s most celebrated streets, with customers reveling among the finest and most fashionable goods in the world. While the mission of this global retailer, whose 40 full-line stores stretch across 22 states and Canada, remains firmly committed to luxury, what customers will find, both now and in the coming years, is a new definition of luxury, one that fits the 21st century perfectly. “Luxury doesn’t just have to do with price,” says Mark Metrick, SFA’s president. “It has so many meanings. And while people have always thought luxury meant buying something expensive, what it means above all is offering quality.” As Metrick stresses, in Saks’s case, the idea of quality extends far beyond the brand names that Saks carries, which in the menswear world includes such top-tier makers as Ermengildo Zegna, Kiton, Isaia, Ralph Lauren, and Brunello Cuccinelli to name a few. In part, that’s because Metrick knows as well as anyone that Saks is not the only store in the world where today’s man can find those brands. “The first thing we have to do is tease out the challenges we can ef-
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Saks Fifth Avenue is redefining what the luxury store means to the 21st-century shopper. By BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON fect,” he says. “Speed to market is getting faster and customers are more informed than ever. This makes the ever-present need for newness, exclusivity and uniqueness more important. Today’s consumer is shopping more broadly, has more information, and has less patience. You need to overcome someone’s urge to go someplace else to shop.” Metrick knows that words and good intentions are not enough to accomplish his mission. “Our goal is to become the hero, and by that I mean connecting to the customer. We want the customer to have a relationship with our stylists and associates, just the way they might with their hairstylist. I want people to feel special when they walk in the door and after they leave. We can do that through data; it’s a lot easier than ever before to know your customers and offer them personalized service.” Still, it’s the people selling the clothes who are the true key players in this equation. “We are concentrating on giving our customers world-class service every day,” says Tom Ott, the company’s SVP and GMM, Mens. “We take sales training very seriously. We meet six times a year with associates in different parts of the country and make them experts in products, wardrobing and every facet of a customer’s needs. We want them to
{ BEST LUXURY RETAILER }
The new Houston store showcases both Saks’ commitment to lifestyle dressing and a more calming and welcoming environment.
understand our customers’ lifestyles and be able to cater to them.” accessories to go with whatever outfit they just bought,” he says. “It’s Speaking of product, Ott is determined that Saks keep up with the about lifestyle dressing. In the smaller stores, it can be harder to commen of 2016 “We keep saying around here that men are the new women. pletely merchandise the way we do at the flagship, but we always try to They are very well-read, well-educated men, maintain a lifestyle point of view, so there’s both and you can never underestimate their knowlworkday and weekend apparel wherever you go.” edge,” says Ott, who joined Saks in 1995. In fact, Saks no longer buys categories the way “We really need to be the first to market. We it did some years back. “There’s no specific suit have one buyer who travels extensively to buyer anymore, it’s no longer about clothing verNorthern Europe, the UK and Paris, looking for sus sportswear,” notes Ott. “We have one person new brands,” he continues. “Every generation in charge of luxury, and another in charge of dehas its own idea of what’s fashionable, but signer, and that person buys all categories.” what’s also true is that the Saks customer has Moreover, private label has become Saks’ always wanted fashion and product with a biggest business. “In some cases, our private label modern edge, whether the look is advanced demerchandise has a higher opening price point signer, classic or contemporary, or whether than some of the brands we carry, but it’s all part they’re a young consumer or an older one who of a value equation. It’s all made in Italy using topjust thinks young.” quality fabrics. We have the finest manufacturers Indeed, Ott makes sure that customers will and a wonderful design team in the United States,” constantly find new offerings in the stores says Ott. “We’re especially proud of our SFA Clasevery season. “We have a great portfolio of sic line, and we recently added Madison Supply, brands that we’ve been with forever, but the which is a more contemporary, denim-friendly colone constant in retail is change, so there is a lection. It’s really exciting to be so relevant.” constant churn,” he says. “Coming soon we’ll Product, of course, is only part of the story. have new players in the athleisure sector; that One of the biggest changes customers are seeing is definitely becoming a bigger portion of our in Saks’ world is the design of the actual stores. buy,” he notes. (Saks is also debuting a celebrityThe Fifth Avenue flagship is undergoing a $250 driven brand this summer; more details are still million, three-year renovation which will result to come.) in updated common areas and fitting rooms, a One other thing that has changed in recent new Fifth Avenue Club, where customers and asyears is the assortment of product a man can sociates can meet to do consultations and cus– MARK METRICK, PRESIDENT, find at Saks, from shoes to socks, jewelry and tom fittings (one of Saks’ strongest-growing SAKS FIFTH AVENUE sunglasses. “What we’re seeing is, more and sectors), and the addition of a branch of the more, that guys are coming in and want to maximize their shopping exfamed Parisian restaurant L’Avenue. perience here. Male shoppers are no longer hunter-gatherers just lookAcross the country, some customers are already seeing big changes ing for one dress shirt,” says Ott. “They want to be able to find the right in their shopping environments. “We recently opened our new Houston
“Today’s consumer is shopping more broadly, has more information, and has less patience. You need to overcome someone’s urge to go someplace else to shop.”
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{ BEST LUXURY RETAILER } store just doors away from our old one, and it really makes you feel at home,” says Metrick. “Our older store is full of marble and dark wood and gorgeous chandeliers, all the things that screamed luxury in 1997. Our old store was cavernous. This new store is truly representative of the new luxury. It is not ornate. It’s calming and welcoming and bright. And it’s open. You know how when you used to go to a fine restaurant 20 years ago, and it was forbidden to see the kitchen. Today, it’s all about the open kitchen. And at the new Saks, it’s also about the openness. There are great sightlines around the whole store.” There are also new stores planned for downtown New York, Hawaii, Greenwich, Connecticut, and New Jersey’s American Dream Mall, an expansion of Saks’ existing store at Miami’s Brickell Center, among other retail developments. It’s all thanks in part to Saks being part of the giant Hudson’s Bay Company family since 2013. “Saks Fifth Avenue’s entrepreneurial spirit has been reignited since we’ve become a member of HBC,” says Metrick (who worked as HBC’s EVP Chief Marketing Officer and then EVP and Chief Administrative Officer before joining Saks in 2015). – TOM OTT, EVP “These expansion plans simply wouldn’t have
been possible without the strong capital structure, foundation and the vision of HBC.” Being part of HBC, however, also means the Saks customer can sometimes be found at the conglomerate’s off-price stores, notably Saks OFF 5th (which recently opened its first NYC store just a few blocks from the flagship on East 57th Street). Is he worried? Not in the slightest. “If off-price is causing us to up our game and forcing designers and brands to elevate their core offerings, it’s all good. You can’t survive without newness or evolution,” says Metrick. “Also, I think off-price introduces some of the best brands to the aspirational consumer, who will grow into the mainstream Saks consumer. And to be honest, I’d rather see product go to one of our 100 OFF 5th locations than having it left over and sold cheaply at our full-line stores.” The bottom line is that the new Saks will always come out on top, says Metrick. “I want people to come to Saks because it has great brands, great service, and an environment in which they are comfortable. Ultimately, my goal is to make Saks what the consumer wants. What should be AND GMM, MEN’S great about Saks Fifth Avenue is that it’s just Saks Fifth Avenue.”
“There’s no specific suit buyer anymore; it’s no longer about clothing versus sportswear.”
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Randa congratulates our valued partner Saks Fifth Avenue on receiving MRâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Luxury Retail Excellence Award.
© 2016 RANDA WWW.RANDA.NET
{ BEST ONLINE RETAILER }
Ace of CLUBS S With plans to build Trunk Club into a billion-dollar business, founder Brian Spaly and Nordstrom look like they’ve struck gold. By WILLIAM BUCKLEY
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ince Brian Spaly graduated from the Stanford Graduate School of Business in 2007, retail has changed drastically. While it might have crossed his mind, as he sat in classes on Entrepreneurship and Formation of New Ventures, that in due time he’d play some part in fashion’s future, his role in what has become a truly tectonic shift might best be described as groundbreaking. Some background: Spaly launched the men’s pant brand Bonobos out of his dorm room because he couldn’t find anything like it: flattering pants in different fits. The brand is still quite successful (and has expanded way beyond pants), but it didn’t start a revolution. Trunk Club did. Since its launch in 2009, the concept of sending men a personalized package of goods selected specifically for each has been repeated with varying levels of success. But Trunk Club’s unswerving commitment to service has set them apart. “I think customers continue to vote with their pocketbooks. When it comes to super-fast, faceless service showing up at your door, Amazon is winning that contest. But we’re at the forefront of offering a richer, more customized connection, a relationship where customers can engage more personally. Our mission: to provide top-shelf service in a way that inspires people. We connect not just on the customers’ terms, but also through the channels that work best for them. That hasn’t changed in the years we’ve been running this business.” Indeed, as the fortunes of both independent retailers and department stores are foundering, the challenge to keep up with retail’s rapid transformation has been significant. With a view to that challenge, Nordstrom acquired Trunk Club in 2014. “Nordstrom’s commitment to us, among many other initiatives they’re
{ BEST ONLINE RETAILER }
Any business that has grown from hundreds of customers to hundreds of thousands of customers has challenges.” –Brian Spaly, Trunk Club
engaged in, proves them to be among the most forward thinking of the major players,” Spaly maintains. Being part of Nordstrom has changed Spaly’s life drastically. “My job has evolved from being a pioneer on the leading edge of an unproven space to navigating that into a billion-dollar business over the the next
five years. And to do that within the Nordstrom structure: online, offline, full-price, off-price and globally. Trunk Club sits in between online and off-line as a sort of high-end, experience-driven concept so it’s a really exciting time to be with the company,” he says. “There are challenges, but I firmly believe that with Nordstrom, we have this incredible
Pete Nordstrom’s Perspective What were Nordstrom’s reasons for acquiring Trunk Club? “We were intrigued by the Trunk Club model as a new and innovative way of serving customers by combining personalized service and convenience: essentially being able to potentially serve a customer who does not favor a department store experience, but likes the kinds of products we sell and wants to look good. Our decision was to either create that capability and channel internally or buy a company that does it well and be able to do it faster and potentially better. We chose the latter and picked Trunk
“What’s keeping us on track is our common objective is to serve customers.”
Club because they were best in class. How has the partnership developed over the last two years? What are you excited about moving forward? We’ve learned a lot from each other. It’s always tough to merge two
companies together regardless of their respective size. What’s keeping us on track and aligned is our common objective to serve customers and create a value-add channel for Nordstrom. The DNA at Trunk Club around service is well aligned with ours. They have their own experiences that are both different and constructive to add to
ours. This is helping us create the best possible operating model that leverages what Nordstrom has to offer and leverages the expertise Trunk Club has in this space. We have also added women’s to the Trunk Club offering. This is potentially a very big opportunity. Brian and his team are enthusiastic and motivated. They have interesting experiences and a point of view about how to succeed. We are working closely with them. We are excited to grow the business in a way that both adds value to Nordstrom as a company and delights customers in new ways.”
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Brian Spaly on Fashion “Where we’ll continue to win is with the relationships our people establish with our customers.” “I don’t believe the modern forwardlooking customer that we’re trying to serve at Trunk Club and Nordstrom is necessarily clamoring for more men’s
opportunity to become the preeminent provider of stylist-driven, assisted commerce.” With revenue in the hundreds of millions and new brick-and-mortar stores opening in Boston, Charleston, and San Francisco this year, those challenges are not immediately apparent. “With any business that has gone from hundreds of customers to hundreds of thousands of customers and over a thousand team
fashion content. I think what they want is more convenience, more access, and even more compelling people serving them. At Trunk Club, we give you a thoughtful, empathetic and compassionate human being who is matched to you. We admire companies like Goldman Sachs and Charles Schwab because they do this. We’re doing a lot right now with social media, especially in women’s, where we’re finding our footing around an Instagram account that
members, challenges come with this change in scale. These include inventory management and personnel challenges like how to build a first-class, high-performing team. And growing pains: we continue to grow rapidly in Manhattan, and have a large new space in LA which has an entirely different fashion sensibility. So we have to constantly learn what kind of merchandise new customers want.”
provides photographs of novel ideas. But at the end of the day, a lot of people do that well, but very few have mastered the commerce end of the spectrum. So while we have a wonderful creative team focusing on photography, social media content, images, Twitter, Instagram, blogs and our website, where we’ll continue to win is with the relationships our people establish with our customers. That’s our primary goal; the other stuff is icing.“
For all of Trunk Club’s success, Spaly isn’t resting on his laurels. “Right now, we might have reached five percent of our potential market, so there’s still 95 percent of the people out there who don’t know what it’s like to come to Trunk Club. What we see now is only the beginning of what technology will have to offer. On the one hand, we’re competing with the Banana Republics, J. Crews and Men’s Wear-
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We’ve added women’s to the Trunk Club offering, which is potentially a very big opportunity.” –Pete Nordstrom houses of the world, but we prefer to compare ourselves to companies like eBay, Facebook and Google. The real key for us is attracting talent from these types of companies, to present engineering and technology challenges interesting enough to attract first-class engineers who will want to build things for us. Technology is such an important part of what we do, and technology in startups moves so much faster than in retail and apparel. So while we’re certainly competing with apparel stores, I look to my contemporaries in the tech startup world for inspiration to move even faster. It’s a healthy challenge to face.”
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{ LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT }
Joseph Abboud has dedicated a lifetime to defining (and redefining) men’s fashion. By STEPHEN GARNER
Not YOUR AVERAGE JOE
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here are few name designers in the industry who are as downto-earth as Joseph Abboud: a man whose humble demeanor belies his impressive achievements. He is a designer who has attained much success, but not without a fair share of turmoil. But like most of our great American heroes, he managed to find his way back to the top. When Abboud first entered the fashion industry as a 16-year-old parttime employee at Louis Boston, he knew he’d found his passion. Over the course of 12 years, he served as buyer, merchandiser, and eventually coordinator of promotion and advertising for the famed specialty store. It was from Murray Pearlstein at Louis where Abboud learned the art of the sale, the knack of mixing colors and fabrics, and the importance of creative courage. In 1981, Abboud joined Ralph Lauren for a three-year stint that eventually led him to become associate director of menswear design. “If Louis Boston was my undergraduate degree, then my business degree
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was achieved at Ralph Lauren,” says Abboud. “My two great inspirations in life have been Murray Pearlstein and Ralph Lauren. What I learned from Ralph was dedication to a brand. He is brilliant at fully understanding what his brand is and is not. It’s that focus that has stuck with me all these years.”
THE BRE AKTHROUGH When Abboud stepped out on his own in 1987, he produced what he still calls his most memorable collection. “I remember the night before I launched my very first Joseph Abboud collection. It was at the Designer’s Collective at the Berkshire Hotel on 52nd street. I panicked and thought ‘Why am I doing this? Who wants another label?’ But the response was incredible.” Abboud vividly remember Richard Bowes, then VP of Bergdorf Goodman, walking into his booth at the show. “He said, ‘I have to bring in Dawn Mello’ who was president of Bergdorfs at the time, and a Mer-
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If Louis Boston was my undergraduate degree, then my business degree was achieved at Ralph Lauren. My two great inspirations in life have been Murray Pearlstein and Ralph Lauren.” chant Queen. (Merchants like Fred Pressman [of Barneys] and Wilkes Bashford were also at that level: not necessarily numbers guys but true visionaries.) So Dawn came in, and immediately fell in love with my kilim rugs that I had brought in from home to decorate the hotel room. I’ll never forget that: she immediately got the connection and thus knew where the collection was coming from. She ended up giving us a first floor shop on 57th Street. There was very little men’s at Bergdorfs at the time, and we had a huge shop. And what do you think sold best? Unstructured linen jackets and separates.” This was the beginning of Abboud’s entry into the best high-end men’s specialty stores in the country. In 1988, Abboud’s new company, JA Apparel, inked a deal with Milan-based GFT (Gruppo Finanziario Tessile) USA to help expand the collection and bolster manufacturing in the States. The company purchased a factory in New Bedford, Massachusetts, and outfitted the space as if it were an Italian atelier, with the technology to support the projected volume. “The old saying was: ‘You
Abboud on
Retail Today Retail is still about theater, about putting on a show for customers to win them over. Sadly, we’ve lost a lot of great specialty stores over the years but what we need more of is the specialty store experience. Our Madison Avenue Abboud store, for example, is about recreating the great American specialty store. Guys still want interesting and exciting pieces; price is not always the motivating factor and if you rely on
that alone, someone can always outprice you. Even young guys with limited clothing budgets don’t want to be shortchanged in terms of style. What I’ve learned is that we as an industry often underestimate the consumer: we hold back when the consumer is ready to move forward. I believe we need more merchants with the creative courage to try new concepts.
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It took an enormous amount of intenstinal fortitude to get through this period of my life. It’s hard for creative people to fight corporations.”
don’t choose GFT, GFT chooses you.’ So I felt like I was the prettiest girl at the dance.” With his namesake collection, Abboud established an exceptional style sensibility noted for its elegance and relaxed sophistication. His debut collection of blacks and browns earned him the name “Mr. Neutral;” his palette has since evolved to include beiges, olives, and other sophisticated earth tones. His rise to success garnered him numerous honors, including being the only designer to have received the CFDA’s Menswear Designer of the Year Award two years in a row (1989 and 1990) and the Special Achievement Award from The Neckwear Association of America in 1994. Other awards over the years include The Cutty Sark Award for Most Promising Menswear Designer (1988), the Woolmark Award for Distinguished Fashion (1989 and 1993) and, in 1995, Abboud won the Excellence in American Design by the U.S. Department of Commerce. Most recently, Abboud was honored by the American Apparel & Footwear Association as its 2016 Person of the Year.
TH E T U R NI N G PO I NT In 2000, when Abboud sold his trademark, JA Apparel, to GFT for $65 million, he was to stay on to design under the brand. But he ultimately left the company after creative differences with the management, only
to return four years later when J.W. Childs Associates bought JA Apparel for $73 million in 2004. Abboud then left the company for good in 2005. “It took an enormous amount of intestinal fortitude to get through this period of my life,” confides Abboud. “It would have been very easy to roll up in a fetal position and give up, but I didn’t. I had to fight a lot of legal battles. It’s hard for creative people to fight corporations but since I didn’t want my entire focus to be on reacquiring the company, I chose to define myself through my own creativity.” And that he did. After leaving his namesake brand, Abboud became the creative force behind Lord & Taylor’s private label brand, Black Brown 1826, and launched his own now-defunct label, Jaz. Abboud then went on to be instrumental in reinvigorating Hart Schaffner Marx and Hickey Freeman, after joining HMX in 2010 as its chief creative officer. Abboud’s life changed for the better, once more, when he joined Men’s Wearhouse (now Tailored Brands) as its chief creative director in December 2012. He was reunited with the Joseph Abboud brand when Men’s Wearhouse acquired JA Holding Inc. in August 2013. “I’m tremendously grateful for the opportunity that Doug (Ewert) has given me,” says Abboud. “When Doug and David Edwab approached me and offered a dream scenario, I couldn’t turn it down. Shortly after I joined Men’s Wearhouse we started negotiating with JA Apparel to buy it back, and we did. I’ll never forget what Doug said to me when I was
GettingPersonal What’s one thing most people don’t know about you? My sense of humor: it’s helped me through some stressful moments. I try not to take myself too seriously. What have you learned to value the most? My instincts. Whenever I’ve not trusted my gut feelings, it’s proven to be unfortunate. So I’ve learned to trust my instincts, both in the creative process and when it comes to people and relationships. What is your favorite NYC restaurant? I’m not a foodie: the kind of restaurant I like is a more casual bistro setting. But I’d usually prefer to eat my wife’s cooking at our home in Bedford than going to any restaurant. I know I’m boring but I love spending time at home, gardening, being in nature. I
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really appreciate the separation of city and suburb. Your favorite vacation spot? I love Nantucket. There is an emotional connection because I used to take my girls there every summer when they were growing up. Paris is also very important to me. When I turned 21, I was studying in Paris and my professor took me to a café across from Notre Dame and handed me the book A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway. There’s a line in it that says, “If you’re lucky to live in Paris as a young man, it stays with you for the rest of your life.” And it has. Where do you most want to travel, but have never been to before? I would love to go to Budapest for the dark romance it exudes. I like the mystery.
“I love spending time at home, gardening, being in nature. I really appreciate the separation of city and suburb.”
If you could go back in time, what time period would you travel to? I love the 1930s. I know it was the Depression, but it was also the Golden Era of Hollywood. Do you collect anything? I love antiques; I’m always browsing antique centers in Connecticut. I love things that feel substantive, like old busts and statues. It’s the heritage aspect that I’m drawn to. Name three things that you can’t live without? Playing squash (it kills my stress), being with my family (I’ve been married to Lynn for almost 40 years; she is my rock. And we have two amazing daughters), and the ability to fulfill myself creatively.
Abboud’s Top Three
Business Lessons
1. Be true to who you are, since you can’t be all things to all people. 2. Never be afraid to hire people who are smarter than you. If you have confidence in yourself you should never be afraid. We have some of the most talented people in the world on our design team: I teach them and they teach me. 3. Enjoy the journey: it goes really fast. You can always reinvent yourself and evolve your creativity.
still considering coming on board. He said, ‘If you join us, you’ll never regret it, I promise you.’ That still sticks with me today. He has been a dedicated partner ever since.” Abboud has gone on to produce his first runway show after a 15-year absence, and will do another at New York Fashion Week: Men’s this month. What’s more, his return to his signature American sartorial heritage marks a new chapter for the designer, and heralds more to come. “We are now the largest tailored clothing manufacturer in North America,” says Abboud. “We’re really proud of that. We’re producing over 300,000 units a year. Our custom business (with three to four week turnaround) is going strong and has much opportunity for growth; having our own factory in Massachusetts is a big advantage in producing quality custom clothing.” With all of his success, Abboud takes nothing for granted. “This award is really special to me because it’s about being recognized by my peers in an industry that I love, and have been a part of, for such a long time. There’s a sort of decency and humanity about menswear vs. women’s wear: it’s always seemed more genteel; we’re not afraid to embrace each other,” he says. “I must sound like the champion or poster boy for menswear, but I welcome that role because we’ve been the stepchild in the fashion world for much too long. But what’s happening with menswear today is truly exciting.”
As we celebrate our 70th anniversary, We congratulate all our friends being honored
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{ BEST AMERICAN LIFESTYLE BRAND }
LIVING the DREAM Vineyard Vines clings to its core culture: “Every day should feel this good.” BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
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emember the story of the poor fisherman who lived a and decided there must be a better way. On the exact same day they quit contented life catching fish from his little wooden boat only to their jobs and launched a little necktie collection, inspired by their childbuild a fishing empire so enormous that he had no time to do hood summers at Martha’s Vineyard. As Shep explains it, “In a sense, the one thing he actually loved? we started making ties so that we didn’t have to wear them. At first the And so I ask vineyard vines founders Shep and Ian Murray: Has the idea was to dress people for life’s special occasions; this evolved into business grown so big, so complex, so removed from its original con- bringing those special feelings to everyday life.” cept that there’s little time to truly enjoy it? Clearly, they’ve done just that at their waterfront corporate head“No way!” responds Shep, somewhat indignantly. “We’re still having quarters in Stamford Ct. The fabulous 91,040-square-foot space is all fun. We love what we do. We make time for family and vacations. And open, friendly, and light, with amazing water views, alfresco eating we’ve assembled an amazing team to make it all possible.” areas, common spaces, lounges, a model store and a gym. About 250 “Our brand is about people,” Ian explains. “And storytelling. When we employees make this their second home. “When we moved here in 2015,” started, it appeared we were selling neckties but what we were really notes Shep, “we envisioned three things: our own building, on the water, selling was this story of two guys trying to create something different. and reeking our brand. We researched and spoke to lots of people to deAnd people were buying into this idea that work needn’t be painful. You termine what a successful office looks like. We had asked our people can follow your dream, have a what they wanted and they said great time, surround yourself with HVAC that works, decent bathpeople you like. We still do all rooms and parking spaces. Of that, just on a slightly larger Founded: 1998 on Martha’s Vineyard course we gave them that and scale… Our product is mostly a veFounders: Shep and Ian Murray more: flextime options, tuition rehicle to take you someplace speBusiness breakdown: one third retail, one third direct, one third imbursement, snacks in the lunchcial in your mind.” wholesale. room, and more. (We don’t let For those who don’t know the Product breakdown: 55% mens 35% womens, 10% kids people eat lunch at their desks; we story, it’s a true fairytale: two 20Official Style designations: America’s Cup, Kentucky Derby believe the mental break, camasomething brothers from GreenSponsored pro-golfers: Russell Knox, Jason Dufner raderie and exchange of ideas are wich, Connecticut got fed up with Hot items: anything performance (quick dry fabrics, stretch, mesh all important.) And if you comtheir financial jobs and the requipockets, poly/nylon button down sport shirts) pare this office to our last one, it’s site daily commute to Manhattan a lot different...”
FAST FAC TS O N V I N EYA RD V I N ES
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{ BEST AMERICAN LIFESTYLE BRAND } From day one, vineyard vines has operAnother next step for the company: liated on an onmichannel model, fairly censing, which they’ve thusfar eschewed. evenly balanced between their own retail, “A common business mistake is to grow wholesale, and direct to consumer. And too quickly in too many directions,” says from day one, they’ve been growing in all Shep. “We believe that to build a healthy three segments. business, you first need the right team and Major vineyard vines accounts include infrastructure in place. So sometimes the better department stores (Nordstrom, best decision to make is to not make one, Bloomingdales) and some great specialty to focus on making the things you do well stores (Darien Sport, Perlis, Murray’s Togeven better before you add something new gery and many more). There are also 75 to the mix.” company-owned stores (a few are partnerAdds Ian, “But we definitely view liships: Oak Hall, Puritan, Hudson News aircensing as an opportunity. This might inport shops); there will be about 100 clude home, shoes, eyewear, accessories, company stores by year’s end. restaurants. We’re trying to analyze which Explains Ian, “We try to create spaces would be best and in what order.” that are not about selling but rather venAsked about mistakes and challenges, ues where people can drop in, hang out, Shep talks about the need to continually have a bite, listen to music, host events. In evolve the brand, the product, and the the process, they might decide to buy team “so that we continue to make stuff something but that’s not the point. We that people want and provide an awesome learned a lot from the Mitchells about hugexperience. Maintaining our culture is imging our customers; the notions of family portant, but since we’re no longer the and community are intrinsic to our brand.” newest kid on the block, we must make Interestingly, the vineyard vines catalog sure that our message stays relevant.” has become more of a marketing vehicle “Our culture is about learning from misthan a selling tool: it no longer includes takes,” explains Ian. “The bad business cliorder sheets but generates lots of calls. mate in 2008 forced us to put disciplines “We’re all about authenticity,” Shep exin place and run our company tighter re: plains without hesitation. “Instead of modinventory, finances, deliveries. You can’t be els in our catalogs, we feature real people afraid to fail. You can make mistakes as SHEP MURRAY, living real lives. Yes we’re storytellers, but long as you make more right decisions CEO AND CO-FOUNDER nothing is fabricated.” than wrong ones.” Among the “models” in their fabulous Adds Shep, “Why worry about the past summer ’16 catalog: the Toppa family when you can’t change it? So we look back (competitive sailors), Ali (steel drum mostly to help us learn for the future.” player), Matt and Jess Johnson (a married couple on a world beer sail), Ian continues: “The number one thing that we spend our time on is Paul Cayard (world sailing champion and Olympian), Johannes Erdmaking sure vineyard vines is an incredible place to work. I just read mann (journalist at sea) and Tony Rey (a professional sailor who lives this Richard Branson theory that makes sense to me: people first, cuson his boat with his wife and kids). tomers second, shareholders third. This is perfectly aligned to our three As brand ambassadors, vineyard vines also uses professional golfers vineyard vines goals: 1. Make this a great place to work. 2. Provide an who wear their product on tour. This past April, they announced a two- awesome experience for our customers. 3. Drive profitable sales growth.” year deal with PGA Tour Pro Russell Knox, winner of the 2015 WGC Asked about recent reports that the company is looking to take in a HSBC Champions. (They also sponsor PGA Tour Pro Jason Dufner.) partner to ultimately go public, Shep speaks candidly (but without ac“We love Russell’s story,” says Ian, “because we relate to his persever- tually answering the question). “We want to do what’s best for our ance and drive to achieve his goals. We share a sense of entrepreneurbrand. Being privately held has worked well for us these past 18 years, ship: we both worked our tails off to be able to make a living doing what letting us focus on long-term growth rather than beating quarterly figwe love.” ures. But we’re always open to possibilities. We’re always looking at ways Adds Shep, “We chose Russell and Jason because, although they’re to make the company better.” hard-working professionals, they don’t take the game so seriously. Asked about a recent article that valued the company at about a bilThey’re more like Hollywood frat golfers and they embody what vine- lion dollars, the boys responded in unison, “Wouldn’t that be nice?” But yard vines is all about: going out there and having fun. If you don’t have whether or not they go with a partner, both maintain that future growth your best day, you still can have a good day. And every day should feel will come from retail expansion, product extension, and continued custhat good! These partnerships, as well as our work with America’s Cup tomer acquisition. sailing, are bringing our brand visibility on the international stage, Observes Ian, “There are still lots of people out there who don’t yet which is an incredibly exciting next step for us.” know about us.”
Our message is simple: follow your dreams and have a good time.”
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{ BEST SPECIALTY STORE }
MILTONS:
The Store for Men Miltons has built a thriving business by operating in the (comfort) zone. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
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here are few menswear stores in the country as successful as Miltons and few with a mission as clearly defined. “You’ll be as comfortable in our stores as you’ll be in our clothes” reflects an emphasis on well-curated assortments, value pricepoints, knowledgeable sellers, and an overall exceptional experience. The two Boston area stores feature a plethora of better brands (Boss, Barbour, Ballin, Calvin, Tommy, Ralph, Varvatos, David Donahue, Jack Victor, Ted Baker, Vineyard Vines, Tommy Bahama, Tailorbyrd, Circle of Gentlemen, MAC, Citizens, and many more), yet there’s nothing intimidating about them, and not an ounce of arrogance in Miltons’ owner Dana Katz, one of the most well-liked and well-respected guys in the industry. For Katz is a merchant’s merchant, known to be loyal to his vendors, but not to a fault. “The best testimony of true friendship is when we stay friends after we stop doing business together,” he maintains. He lives and breathes the business, regularly shopping the market for great product
FAST FACTS ON MILTON S Founded: 1947 by Isadore Katz and his sons Milton and Nathan Locations: Braintree (30,000 sq ft) and Chestnut Hill (16,000 sq ft) # of suits hanging: 2000 in Braintree, 2,000 in Chestnut Hill Price range (suits): $99-$1,000 Success secrets: Below market real estate costs; suit sizes to 60
including portly, separates and custom; exceptional tailor shop, dedicated 30-person management/sales team, sharp buyers
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based on a grid that’s classic to contemporary, good/better/best. Always, he learns the particular nuances of each collection so that each line has a reason for being with minimal duplication on the selling floor (not easy with 4,000 suits!) Within tailored clothing, each brand represents a specific fit so that all body types are covered and the overall assortment is easily understandable to both sellers and customers. Other clothing strategies: sportcoats are now merchandised in the front of the store away from suits, paired with all types sportswear. Tailored clothing now features suit separates (30 percent to total, replacing athletic fit) as well as nested suits. Portly models in separates have been incredibly successful and custom is a small but growing part of the business. “But we believe in inventory that turns,” Katz insists. “We don’t want anyone walking.” A bit of history: Dana’s grandfather, Isadore Katz, emigrated from Russia and became a custom peddler of linens, sheets and towels. (Immigrants at that time were uncomfortable shopping at stores as they were often mocked for their broken English.) By 1947, after 25+ years of peddling, he decided to open a store in Quincy, with his sons Milton (who had just graduated from Northeastern) and Nathan. “In the 1960s they ultimately noticed they were getting lots of customers from Brookline and Newton, so they opened a second store in Chestnut Hill. In 2000, a tragic fire decimated much of the space next to us right after we did a major renovation, so the future looked precarious. Fortunately, a local developer came up with a mixed-use plan featuring the first urban-size Wegmans, a medical office building, a SoulCycle, specialty salad shop (SweetGreen) and craft pizza shops, etc. It’s a young, energized shopping environment and business has been quite good.”
{ BEST SPECIALTY STORE }
It’s all about controlling your real estate. Fortunately, our occupancy costs are below market so we can put our resources where we need to and compete with the big guys.” DANA KATZ, MILTONS
Back in the day
This was not always the case however. “At one point in time, we were up to seven stores; we closed five of them,” he admits. “My very wise father permitted me to make mistakes. I realize that’s how one learns but I wish he hadn’t let me make so many. Seriously though, once we realized that Braintree and Chestnut Hill were carrying the rest of the stores, the decision to close was simple. This was in the late 1990s and early 2000s. It was these tough choices that enabled us to focus and grow.” Clearly, his dad remains Dana’s mentor and closest friend. (In fact, the phone rang from Jerusalem in the middle of our interview.) “My dad is an ardent Zionist: he first went to Israel in 1967, made some great friends there, and at age 59, he left the business and moved to Israel where he’s had a wonderful life. I know he never regretted moving there with my mother. It was a very thoughtful way of executing a transition in a family business. He didn’t hang over my shoulder, he didn’t pass away, he was always there, just 5,000 miles away!” Asked how business has changed in recent years, Katz is thoughtful. “Early on, success was 90 percent buying, about having the right product mix. Today, I’d say it’s one third product, one third marketing, and one third creating the right team to deliver a memorable experience.” Toward this end, Katz gets a little help from business consultant Eddie Binder from Apex Growth Strategies. “He immediately did a study of our top customers on why they shop in our stores,” he says. “Yes, they like the product and the prices but even more, they like our people—both the sellers and the tailors—who they describe as ‘knowledgeable’ and ‘interested’.” To keep the team engaged and improve communication, Katz has implemented Saturday morning meetings on the selling floor, weekly management meetings and an invaluable phone system (1-2-3 Line) where
sellers call in (in real time) every missed sale and the reason for it. “Eddie Binder has gotten us to function more effectively as a team,” says Katz, who credits his key players for embracing the program. These include Bill Leva (who started at Miltons 31 years ago and just took over the role of CFO from his mother Grace), visual merchandise manager Greg Cash (who started 32 years ago and is responsible for executing presentation according to the OTB plan), and Brianne Dickson (who started five years ago as a department manager in Braintree, and now buys all categories except clothing and furnishings). Mark Sarkis, Cindy Swiman, Tim Gaines and Ryann Curran, all retail veterans, round out the store management team. “Our competitive advantage is people, not product,” Katz insists. “If I gave you a couple of million dollars in OTB, you could duplicate our mix, but not our team.” To attract millennials, a goal of most menswear merchants these days, Katz believes that quality plus value trump brands. He is known to take keystone rather than excessive markups and to offer bonus incentives on entry level goods. “We’re priced a bit under the competition,” he explains without apologies. “We can do this based on real estate costs that are below market. As for BOGO’s (buy one get one), we do them with only a few opening price brands. They’re not for our Boss or Victor customers but they’re an important part of our business and we don’t try to hide it. In fact, our ads proclaim that if you don’t need two suits, bring a friend!” Katz also attracts millennials with a strong business in wedding suits. “Whether it’s an opening price poly/rayon suit in French blue or light grey or a Hugo Boss fine wool tuxedo (we sell 95 percent suits and five percent tuxes), they come in with eight to 12 guys between 25 and 35 years old, then in the next six to 18 months, the guys in the wedding
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These days, you put a guy in a slim fit 36 regular and he wants it smaller, so we’re adding size 34s…” DANA KATZ, MILTONS party are getting married and the business grows exponentially.” Footwear is also a healthy and growing business that was, until recently, leased. “I was worried that we couldn’t make it profitable,” Katz confides. “Shoes turn even more slowly than suits. But we’ve got some great brands (Mezlun, Johnston & Murphy, Clarks, Cole Haan) that are selling really well.” A spectacular downstairs boys department with all the top brands is clearly a destination (as is a clearance area featuring post-season product from both stores.) A definite highlight at Miltons: the fabulous full tailor shop in the Braintree store, where 95 percent of goods from both stores are altered. (Miltons has its own truck that transports between stores.) Here, we meet Tony Mazza, (a Miltons tailor since 1967!), David, Donna, Ellie, Palma and Alberto (who manages the shop and learned to sew in Spain from his dad). Katz explains that charging for alterations has not been a problem: customers appreciate paying for only what they need as opposed to inflated ticket prices upfront. Few people know Katz better than his retail colleague Ken Giddon from Rothmans. “I talk to Dana a few times each week,” says Giddon. “He is a friend, a mentor and a guiding light. He’s also an amazing family man, balancing work with family in a seemingly effortless way. The only thing better than Dana is his wife and kids.” Bottom line, Miltons is a well-oiled machine run by an instinctive merchant who asks as many questions as he answers. “My father used to put our associates through a listening skills program since if they can’t listen, selling skills won’t help,” he says. “I’ve found that in business, as in life, listening is more valuable than talking.”
Getting Personal A chat with chairman Bob Beall
Family First: Wife Ariela, daughter Becky (works for SoulCycle), son Alex (works for Senator Chuck Schumer). Favorite Pastimes: Binge watching all the great new TV shows with my wife, trying to improve my golf game, enjoying the company of family and friends. Best Pals: Ken from Rothmans, Anthony from The Garage and Mike Sheehan, CEO of The Boston Globe: “They’re always there for me as a sounding board.”
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From the top: The exceptional team at Miltons; Dana Katz with good friends Anthony Digirolamo of Garage Clothing, Larry Stemerman of Tailorbyrd and Ken Giddon of Rothmans; Milton meeting with Joe and Gregg Gordon at Marcraft; suits, suits and more suits, always hot sellers at Miltons!
WE CONGRATULATE
MILTONS FOR THEIR EXCELLENCE IN SPECIALTY RETAILING.
THANK YOU
DANA KATZ FOR BEING SUCH A WONDERFUL LEADER IN THIS INDUSTRY.
WE NOT ONLY CONSIDER YOU AN OUTSTANDING PARTNER BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY A SPECIAL FRIEND.
{ FASHION }
LEFT TO RIGHT: Officine Générale JACKET, PANTS; Jil Sander SUNGLASSES. Calvin Klein Collection SWEATER, PANTS; Reebok SNEAKERS; Givenchy SUNGLASSES. Calvin Klein Collection JACKET, TANK, JEANS; Jil Sander SUNGLASSES.
NewGuard, New Garb
While nothing looks as perfectly put together as a well-fitted suit, activewear’s influence is driving designer sportswear sales. BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL CLIFFORD.
S
itting in my hotel room overlooking the Arno during Pitti Uomo, where the unwritten dress-code is “suits or sportcoats at all times,” it is abundantly obvious that designer sportswear is having a heyday. Even Pitti’s own guest designers, Raf Simons and Gosha Rubchinskiy, are from the world of sportswear, with nary a sportcoat to show. That seems to be suiting major retailers just fine. “We’re seeing a significant uptick in men’s designer and luxury sportswear,” says Saks VP fashion director of menswear Eric Jennings. “Designer sportswear is benefiting from the tremendous influence of celebrities, athletes, musicians and social media personalities, and luxury sportswear is benefiting from the need for a more casual and multi-functional wardrobe. It’s actually a really great moment in menswear!” Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman agrees. “This athletic influence in menswear, truly putting the “sport” into sportswear, will certainly move forward as the athleisure and athluxury trends continue to dominate casual clothing. The design component of these lines is ampli-
fied with the creation of great new shapes and hybrids of classic sporty silhouettes.” At Goodman’s, even as the names remains the same, the looks are constantly changing. “Goodman’s was the first retailer to sell Thom Browne when he introduced his line of trim, cropped, 1960s-style suits,” explains Pask. “We have seen that line evolve to include an offering of sweatpants and jackets in his classic grey and navy with his signature four white bands—they have been great for us! This casualization of designer and luxury sportswear has given the category great accessibility. Comfort is key and men love the high quality fabrics and easy shapes that lines like Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana offer. This casualization of menswear is a reflection of our current culture and its shifting needs. In that respect, this athleisure movement has been a great success.” “Our customers may not be wearing formal business attire as much as they did in the past, but that’s OK,” says Jennings. “We now have an opportunity to help them update and build a new type of wardrobe that is more casual yet still polished. It’s all about reinventing ourselves to remain relevant to the needs of the modern professional.”
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LEFT: Emporio Armani JACKET, PANTS; Calvin Klein Collection SANDALS; Dior Homme SUNGLASSES. RIGHT: Emporio ArmanI JACKET, PANTS; Reebok SNEAKERS; DSquared SUNGLASSES.
THIS PAGE: Kiton JACKET, Palmiers du Mal TANK; Ermenegildo Zegna PANTS; Reebok SNEAKERS; Givenchy SUNGLASSES. OPPOSITE: Calvin Klein Collection JACKET, TANK, PANTS.
THIS PAGE: Calvin Klein Collection SWEATER, PANTS; Givenchy SUNGLASSES; Reebok SNEAKERS. OPPOSITE: Fendi SWEATER; Dsquared PANTS, KEYCHAIN; Calvin Klein Collection VISOR, SOCKS, SANDALS.
PRODUCTION COORDINATOR KALEENA ZANDERS. GROOMING BY LELLIS RIBEIRO, AGENCY GERARD MANAGEMENT. MODELS: RYAN BERTROCHE, KYLE KRIESEL, DT MODEL MANAGEMENT.
OPPOSITE: Bottega Veneta. THIS PAGE: Valentino JACKET, T-NECK, PANTS; Reebok SNEAKERS.
Ferragamo JACKET, SHIRT, PANTS; Dsquared SUNGLASSES.
# INTHEMRKET
SUMMER IN THE CITY: A GUIDE TO THE SHOWS JULY 17-19, 2016 THE JAVITS CENTER, NYC
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AN A-LIST LINEUP The summer 2016 edition of MRket New York again offers you the most extensive and enviable roster of exhibitors to see during NYC’s biannual menswear market week. Boasting more than 320 vendors, who are all leaders in their area of specialty, the show has been carefully curated to satisfy all your buying needs. MRket has become even stronger thanks to its new familial alliance with its now sibling show PROJECT, which runs simultaneously and in the same hall as MRket. Whether you seek the firmly established and always reliable or a fledgling up-and-comer that will add fashion freshness to your assortment, you’re bound to find it at MRket or PROJECT.
611 070 Studio-Landi Alan Paine Knitwear Alden Alessandro Gherardi Alessandrosimoni Alexander Julian * Alfred Sargent * Allsize * Alpetora/G. Manzoni Andrew Fezza Andrew Marc Clothing Angelo * Anthony Miles Antonio Manuel De Sousa * Arcuri Ties Austen Heller Austin Reed Baade II, Ltd. Bacco Bucci Bademci * Baldessarini * Banvard & James Barbour Barnaby Silks Baroni Couture/Prive/Maxdavoli/Trend Bartorelli Belford Men Belts + di Piazza Stefano Benson Bentley Cravats Corp Bertigo Bird Dog Bay Blanqazul Blujacket BMG Imports Inc. Boat 54 Boconi * Bod’hin Drill Hankerchief * Borean Men’s Couture Borgo 28 Bowen * Brackish Brandolini Bresciani 1970 Bretelle & Braces Breuer Sas Brian Toohey Brown Allan * Bruno Piatelli Calabrese 1924 Caliban Calvin Klein Clothing Calvin Klein Neckwear Camp Hero Campobello Cardinal of Canada Castaway-Nantucket Island Cerutti 1881
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Chelsey Imports Chiari Chippewa 1901 Christopher Lena Cockpit USA Codis Maya Ltd Collared Greens Cooper Jones Supply Coral Coast Clothing * Corrente Crombie Cufflinks, Inc. Cutter & Buck Davek Umbrellas Dents Heritage Collection Di Bello by Nipal Di Ruggiero * Dielmar * Dion DKNY Dobbs Hats & Caps Dolcepunta Drake’s Duncan Walton Edward Armah Edward Green Empire Clothing English Laundry En-Soi * Enzo Tovare Euro Fashions Eyebobs LLC F.H. Wadsworth Faber-Castell Design Fabio D - Fabio Dei Velapazza * Fairmount Moccasins * Fairway & Greene Falke Socks * Fariani * FC Universe * Fertini Filippo De Laurentiis Fiorima, S.A. * Fish Hippie * Flannel Bay Fly3 Flynt Fox Umbrellas Fredrick Martin Gallia * Gallotti Garment Group Inc. Geoff Nicholson Gianni Gallucci Atelier Gianni Marcelo Gimo’s Gionfriddo GiosBrun Roma Parioli Gitman Bros
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GJ Cahn Bow Ties GJ Cahn Scarfs Global Mint Graf von Faber-Castell Gruppo Bravo Halsey Hari Mari * Heschung * Highland Shoe Company Holebrook Sweden Hommard Hook + Albert I Italian Soft * I.C. Richard Choi Ibiza iDesign Ike Behar Dress Shirts Ike Behar Neckwear Ike Behar Tailored Impulso Individualized Shirts * International Laundry Italian Trade Commission Italo Ferretti ItalUomo Italwear/A. Bossi J. Grill * J.M. Dickens J.S. Blank & Co/Barbara Blank Jack Victor James Campbell James Tattersall Jan Leslie/Linkup/MaxReed Jared Lang Jimmy Sales Neckwear/ Bruno Piattelli Neckwear John H. Daniel Custom Tailors Johnnie O Josh Bach * Kennedy * L’Aiglon * Lanai Collection Lanfranco * Lanvin Lauren Ralph Lauren Ledbury Lee Allison Left Coast Tee Lenor Romano * Lipson Shirtmakers Lloyd Shoes Loft 604/Cesarani London Fog Lords & Fools * Lorenzoni Luchiano Visconti Luchiano Visconti Boys Luciano Bardelli Luciano Moresco
LV Black Maceoo Maison F Paris * Majestic International Maker and Company Maledetti Toscani * Mantoni Marcello Made In Italy Marcello Sport Marchesi Di Como Marco Valentino Mario Latorre Bags * Martin Dingman Countrywear * Masterclass Apparel Matt Totillo Max ‘N Chester * Max Tonso Cashmere * Mayser Headwear Meyer-MMX Mezlan Michael Bastian Gray Label * Michael Kors Michael Kors Neckwear Michael Zechbauer Michael’s Miguel Bellido Milano 140 Missani Le Collezioni Misternic Cashmere Mizzen + Main Mobile Bay Modena & Proper Shirting Mon Art Montaliani Montechiaro MPG Sport Newport Isle Nicole Miller Nigel Knox Nifty Socks Nigel Richards * Nikky North 56’4 * Northern Cobbler Ox & Bull * Pacific Silk Pantherella Paolo Albizzati Paolo Vitale Papua * Paraboot Pasotti Pat & Can Patrick Assaraf Peerless Boys Peerless Clothing USA, Inc. Penrose London Per-Pedes Peru Unlimited Peruvianni Pete Huntington Peter-Blair Accessories PMF * Private Stock Neckwear Prossimo Jack Victor Prototype 81 * Puccio Di Piero Punto Socks PVH/Insigina Design Q* Quieti R_men * Raffi Ralph Behk * Renco Big and Tall Replika Jeans Cph * Res Ipsa Rhone Richard James Riviera Red Robert Graham Clothing
Robert Graham Hosiery Robert Graham Loungewear & Underwear Robert Keyte Silks Rowdy Gentleman S. Cohen Inc. Saddle & Rope * Sailors & Brides Sanyo New York Sartoria * Saxx Underwear Schneiders Salzburg Scott Barber Scott Nichol Sean John Seaward + Stearn London Sebastien James Collection Silvio Fiorello Simon Carter Smathers and Branson Southern Marsh Collection Southern Proper Southern Shirt Southwick Spivey St. Croix Collections and Heritage by St. Croix State Traditions Stetson Hats Stetson Outdoor Hats Steven Land Sweat Tailor * Taccaliti Shirts Tailor Vintage Tallia Orange Tallia Orange Hosiery Tasc Performance * Tateossian Ltd. Ted Baker London Teleria Zed Thaddeus The Bird Dog Group The British Apparel Collection Ltd. The Oxford Shirt Company * Thompson Tiglio Inc. Tommy Bahama Leather Goods Tommy Hilfiger Neckwear Tori Richard Torras Toscano Trafalgar Trands USA Trumbull Rhodes * Tumi Belts * Turms Umberto Vallati Uomo Sport * Vannucci Versace 19.69 Vineyard Vines Vintage Italia Visconti Black Vitaliano Vluxe * Vuori * Wigens Wood Underwear Yongzheng Tailor * You + Shirt * Zanni * Zenobi * Zero Restriction
SPONSORSHIPS
A favorite purveyor of Southerninspired apparel and accessories, Southern Proper returns to MRket as the sponsor of the lounge in the Modern Prep section. Grab a complimentary and refreshing popsicle there and take a break Dixie-style.
Since 2014 Rhone has been satisfying the market’s thirst for premium activewear. Now it will also literally help keep you hydrated during MRket with complimentary reusable and keepsake 350 ml water bottles that will be distributed to selected visitors. Fill yours at the conveniently located and environmentally friendly water stations located throughout the show floor and help pitch the plastic and keep this planet of ours in prime physical condition. Share your bottle snaps at #WhenInRhone.
* Indicates new to show brands > Listing is accurate as of time of print. Please check mrketshow.com/brands for an updated MRket listing and visit magiconline.com/project-new-york for a full PROJECT brand listing.
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FASHION PRESENTATIONS Produced and styled by industry experts and renowned menswear stylists Michael Macko and Jahn Hall, this season’s on-site 45-minute fashion presentations will take place in the front center of the show floor between the two entrances of MRket. Please stop by to see the newest collections from Barbour, Prototype 81, Vanguards Gallery and Made in Italy section, among others. Keeping with this season’s theme of “Air,” the presentations will incorporate clouds, sky, paper airplanes and wind machines to heighten the dramatic effect – and blow you away!
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WE ARE FAMILY MRket is proud, honored and excited to be the newest member of the UBM family of trade shows and knows that its inclusion into this powerful fold will only serve to strengthen the event and make your show-going easier and more efficient. Running over 400 events per year, U.K.-based UBM is the second largest exhibitions organizer globally and the largest independent organizer in the U.S. and China. In addition to MRket, its American fashion portfolio includes the MAGIC, PROJECT, Coterie and FN Platform shows, among others, and it boasts a time-proven track record of excellence. As a result of this recent unification, MRket and PROJECT will run side by side in an open floor plan for the first time at the Javits Center (see map) and a single registration will grant guests access to both. See, your life is already easier! We are thrilled to be a part of our esteemed new family and look forward to offering our brands and buyers an even more unified show experience and market dates, locations and configurations that best serve all your needs as we go forward.
MRKET SHOW MAP MRKET IS LOCATED IN HALL 3B & PROJECT IS LOCATED IN HALL 3A OF THE JAVITS CENTER.
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DON’T-MISS DEBUTS
MRKET IS PLEASED TO WELCOME THE FOLLOWING FIRST-TIME EXHIBITORS TO THE SHOW THIS SEASON. BE SURE TO VISIT THIS OH-SO FRESH “FRESHMAN CLASS” OF NEW AND NOTEWORTHY BRANDS.
ALLSIZE Based in Denmark, Allsize Company has emerged as a leading producer in the Big & Tall segment and offers a broad assortment of items that span from underwear to sports coats. The trio of brands under its umbrella – North 56°4, Replika Jeans CPH and North 56°4 Sport – cater to three distinct men’s lifestyles and give larger guys the same extensive variety of fashion options as regular-sized guys. Currently distributed in more than 25 countries, the company is now prepared to expand its welcome and needed footprint stateside. BROWN ALLAN A yarn spinner turned apparel manufacturer, this newcomer label offers knitted athleisure looks made from luxurious cashmere blends and exotic, natural fibers. Its modern, clean and simple collection make this collection a definite must-see…and feel. MAISON F PARIS Maison F Paris is a Gallic go-to for quality, uniquely fashionable neckwear that encompasses ties, bow ties, ascots, scarves and pocket squares. This lauded Parisian label has previously collaborated with Petrossian and Michael Bastian and offers a vast range of colors, fabrics and chic motifs that are all magnifique. PROTOTYPE 81 Created by NFL all-star wide receiver Terrell Owens, this new sports luxury lifestyle brand serves up active-inspired styles that are meant to be worn before, in and after the game. It seamlessly mixes fitness and fashion. Launching in the MOVE section within Vanguards Gallery. VUORI Born in the coastal California town of Encinitas, Vuori makes high performance apparel with a distinctively West Coast vibe. Its shorts, pants, tops, graphic T-shirts and accessories are suited for activities from yoga to swimming and incorporate state-of-the-art technical fabrics and/or sustainable ones, including Seacell, which is derived from seaweed and certified wood pulp. Launching in the MOVE section within Vanguards Gallery.
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V U ORI
MAI S ON F P ARI S
P R O TO TYP E 81
AL L S I Z E
BROWN ALLAN
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MUST-SEES SUPERB SPECIAL SECTIONS AND CANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T-MISS EVENTS CREATED TO ENHANCE YOUR SHOW EXPERIENCE ARE AGAIN IN PLACE THIS SEASON. FROM A HUB OF ACTIVEWEAR AND OTHER THEMATICALLY FOCUSED, AWE-INSPIRING PLATFORMS TO LIVE MODEL PRESENTATIONS, THE FOLLOWING DESTINATIONS ARE ONES THAT NEED TO BE ON YOUR ITINERARY.
MAS T E RC LA S S AP P A RE L
S WE AT T AI L OR P MF
RH ONE
MI Z Z E N + MAI N
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T A S C P E R F O R MA N CE
MOVE, the sweat-fueled subdivision of Vanguards Gallery devoted to the growing breed of active and athleisure consumers, made a triumphant premiere at the show in January and is now back for an even more impressive round two. With a winning team of 11 labels this go-round, its all-star lineup this season will obliterate any of your potential pain in your quest to gain that “gym rat” customer who refuses to dress rattily. We’re super pumped to have drafted these sure-bet MOVErs that will up your selling performance miles ahead of the nearest competition: Fiorima, S.A. Masterclass Apparel Mizzen + Main MPG Sport PMF Prototype 81
UO MO S P ORT
Rhone Sweat Tailor Tasc Performance Uomo Sport Vuori
MOVE is thrilled to have Equinox, our favorite luxury fitness company (and we are not alone in saying so), to serve as the section’s official partner again this season. When we first partnered in January, Equinox and MOVE joined forces and raised funds by having our on-site guests ride for the Cycle for Survival charity, so be sure to stop by MOVE again this season to check out – or better yet participate in – planned athletic activities that will widen your well-being and make for a better you.
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MUST-SEES
MADE IN ITALY Didn’t make it to Florence this season? Fear not! Once again MRket brings you the best of bella Italia with the finest selection of manufacturers from the Mediterranean’s menswear mecca. With their country’s famously fastidious attention to detail and quality, this banquet of Italian brands exudes the excellence and elegance that has cemented this nation’s longstanding reputation as the purveyor of the world’s finest fashion. 070 Studio-Landi Alessandro Gherardi Alessandrosimoni Alpetora/G. Manzoni Arcuri Ties Belts + di Piazza Stefano Borean Men’s Couture Bresciani 1970 Bretelle & Braces Calabrese 1924 Caliban Di Bello by Nipal Dolcepunta Fabio D - Fabio Dei Velapazza
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Filippo De Laurentiis Flannel Bay Fly3 Gallia Gallotti Gianni Gallucci Atelier Gimo’s GiosBrun Roma Parioli Impulso Italo Ferretti Italwear/A. Bossi Lorenzoni Luciano Moresco Maledetti Toscani Marchesi Di Como
Milano 140 Misternic Cashmere Mon Art Montaliani Montechiaro Paolo Albizzati Paolo Vitale Pasotti Puccio Di Piero Renco Big and Tall Silvio Fiorello Taccaliti Shirts Teleria Zed Umberto Vallati Vitaliano Zanni Zenobi
MUST-SEES
BRITS IN NEW YORK Hail Britannia! We’ve assembled more than 20 brands for this season’s incarnation of a mini British Empire to again bring you the cream of the U.K.’s fashion crop. Spanning traditional to trendsetting, the collections from these jolly good names are certain to conquer your customers. So be sure to pop ’round and see them. Alan Paine Knitwear Alfred Sargent Anthony Miles Banvard & James Barbour Barnaby Silks Bowen Codis Maya Ltd Crombie Dents Heritage Collection
Drake’s Edward Green Fairmount Moccasins Fox Umbrellas J.M. Dickens Nigel Knox Nifty Socks Northern Cobbler Pantherella Penrose London
Richard James Robert Keyte Silks Scott Nichol Seaward + Stearn London Simon Carter Tateossian Ltd. The Oxford Shirt Company Thompson
MODERN PREP The Ivy League and its ilk continue to reign as a style standard. Its confident, casual and effortlessly handsome looks are timelessly on-trend but have nonetheless morphed a bit with current times. Our special section Modern Prep returns to celebrate all things polo, plaid, pastel and Princeton-y with another Grade-A class of exhibitors who lead this stylistic charge. Visit it to find the latest looks that are truly and classically all-American. Bird Dog Bay CastawayNantucket Island Collared Greens Cutter & Buck Fish Hippie Holebrook Sweden Johnnie O
Mobile Bay Peter-Blair Accessories Rowdy Gentleman Smathers and Branson Southern Marsh Collection
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Southern Proper Southern Shirt State Traditions Tailor Vintage Tori Richard Vineyard Vines
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MUST-SEES
A one-stop section featuring the crème de la crème of directional, visionary design, Vanguards Gallery returns to the show floor front and center with a compelling, highly sellable assortment of newcomers and old favorites, all of who are at the foreground of modern menswear. While there be sure to visit Vanguards Gallery’s returning special sub-sections: MOVE, a neighborhood featuring active-based brands, and Platinum, our sterling selection of luxury labels. Alexander Julian Anthony Miles Austen Heller Baldessarini Benson Boconi Borgo 28 Brackish Brown Allan Camp Hero Cardinal of Canada Cerutti 1881 Cockpit USA Cooper Jones Supply Crombie Dielmar Halsey Hari Mari Hommard Hook + Albert I.C. Richard Choi Individualized Shirts Lanai Collection Lanvin Ledbury
Lenor Romano Loft 604/Cesarani Lords & Fools Maison F Paris Mario Latorre Bags Matt Totillo Max ‘N Chester Meyer-MMX Michael Bastian Gray Label Michael’s Milano 140 Northern Cobbler Papua Pasotti Pat & Can Prossimo Jack Victor R-Men Ralph Behk Res Ipsa Sailors & Brides Spivey Ted Baker London Trumbull Rhodes Turms Wood Underwear
MILA N O 14 0
VANGUARDS GALLERY
S PIV E Y
L ANV I N
VANGUARDS GALLERY PLATINUM Seeking the finest of the fine? Vanguards Gallery’s exclusive gathering of costly companies is aptly named after what is the world’s most precious metal. (Sorry, gold, but you are first runner-up!) Although their price tags are steep, these brands’ quality and exclusivity will make your customers’ precious dollar well-spent, everlasting and a fashion investment that will undoubtedly be passed on for generations. Whether that’s the world’s best umbrella, a pair of timeless cufflinks or luxurious apparel, Platinum is a one-stop shop of better brands. Brackish Cerutti 1881 Crombie Hommard Lanvin Lords & Fools Maison F Paris
I NDIV ID U A LIZ E D S H IR T S
Mario Latorre Bags Milano 140 Pasotti Ralph Behk Res Ipsa Spivey Turms P APU A
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C AMP H E RO
C O O P E R JO N ES SUP P LY
PAT & C AN
S AI L ORS & B RI DE S
LOF T 604/ CE SA RANI
AL E XANDE R J U L I AN
L E NOR ROMANO
BORGO 28
RE S I P S A
WOOD U NDE RWE AR
H OMMARD L E DB U RY
C O C K P IT USA
HARI MARI
T RU MB U L L RH ODE S
P AS OT T I
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PHOTOSHOP
WE GATHERED IMAGES FROM OUR BRANDS AND PUT TOGETHER THE FOLLOWING MOOD BOARDS TO HELP YOU SHOP THE SHOW. FROM THE SEASON’S TOP NEW STYLE TRENDS TO KEY SPECIFIC ITEMS, THESE COLLAGES WILL GUIDE YOU TO THE BOOTHS THAT ARE BOUND TO BOOST YOUR BUSINESS.
NEUTRAL TERRITORY Shades of browns and beige bring a muted, earthy cool to men’s spring/summer 2017 wardrobes.
DI B E L L O B Y NI P AL
I BI Z A
BA N VARD & JAMES GALLOTTI
B OC ONI P E RU U NL I MI T E D
MAJESTIC I NTERNATI ONAL
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E Y E B OB S L L C
G IM O S
0 7 0 S T U DI O L ANDI
C H E L S EY I MP ORT S
FAB E R C AS T E L L DE S I GN
C O R R E N TE ST. CROI X COLLECTI ONS & HERI TAGE BY ST. CROI X
S T E T S O N HA TS
C AL AB RE S E 1 9 2 4
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PHOTOSHOP BLAZE FORWARD
Informal blazers and relaxed suit jackets are fashion perennials but new fabrics and silhouettes now augment their appeal to the modern man.
J . GRI L L
JA ME S TA TTERSALL
LUCI ANO MORESC O
TELERI AZ ED
I DESI GN
ANDRE W F E Z Z A
T AL L I A ORANGE
CA RDI N A L OF CANADA
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S ANYO NE W YO RK
B ORE AN
T AC C AL I T I S H I RT S
FLA N N E LB A Y
NI KKY
MI CHAEL B ASTI AN F L Y NT MAC E OO G IOSBRUN ROMA PARI OLI
P ROS S I MO JA C K V IC T O R
TI GLI O I NC.
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PHOTOSHOP SOUTHERN CHARM
A pastel palette and a pinch of prep evoke a time-honored look favored by gentlemen who dwell in coastal towns south of the Mason-Dixon.
B RE T E L L E & B RAC E S
GLOBAL MI NT
SCOTT NI CHOL
F .H. WADSWORTH
B EL FORD ME N
AL AN PL AI NE KNI TWEAR
SCHNEI DERS SAL Z B U RG
V I NE Y ARD V I NE S
BREUER SAS
B L ANQAZ UL
C OL L ARE D GRE E NS
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FLY3
FISH HIPPIE
T ORRAS
P E RUVI A N NI
S OU T H E RN P ROP E R
DOBBâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HATS & CAPS
T HA D D E US
J OH NNI E O
P E T E R B L AI R AC C E S S ORI E S
GI ANNI GAL L U C C I AT E L I E R
MOBI LE BAY
RI V I E RA RE D
RAF F I SOUTHERN SHI RT
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PHOTOSHOP STRONG SUIT
Tailored and formal dressing options continue to dress up – and thus provide a leg up to – guys who always want to make a favorable impression.
R A L P H LA UR E N
TR A F A LGA R
EDWARD ARMAH SCOTT NI CHOL
SIL VI O F I ORELLO
AUSTI N RE E D
NI COLE MI LLER
MARI O LATORRE BAGS
I T AL O F E RRE T T I
S E AN J OH N
EMPI RE
DKNY
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B E NT L E Y C RAV AT S C ORP
ANDREW MARC CL OTH I NG
GA RME N T GR O U P IN C
C A LVI N KE LI N
P AC I F I C SILK
S. COHEN
M IC HA E L KORS
P ANT H E RE L L A
VI TALI ANO
BARONI COUTURE PRI V E MAXDAVOLI TREND
J AC K V IC TO R
RAL P H B E H K
JO HN G. DA N I EL C USTOM TA LORS
PETER-BLAI R ACCESSORI ES VE RSA CE
PU N TO S OC K S
P E E RLE S S B OY S
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PHOTOSHOP COLLAR MY WORLD
Universally popular, casual button-ups and polos continue their spin as top tops.
AGH E RARDI CALI BAN
I NTERNATI ONAL L AU NDRY
CUTTER & BUCK
M IS TE R N IC CA S H M E R E
SE BA STI EN JAMES
VI NTAGE I TAL I A
I T AL WE AR/ A. B OS S I
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L ORE NZONI
P E T E H U NT I NGT ON
C HRIS TO PHE R LE N A
FA B IO D E I V E LA PA Z Z A JARED LANG
MONT E C H I ARO
BENSON
GALLI A
U MB E RT O V AL L AT I
MATT TOTI L L O
MARC E L L O S P ORT
LUCHI ANO VI SCONTI
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PHOTOSHOP FINISHING TOUCHES
These days you can’t afford to ignore furnishings, footwear and other accessories so don’t depart MRket without spying and buying the eye-catching collections from these exemplary exhibitors.
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P E R P E DE S AL E S S ANDRO S I MONI
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ANT ON IO MA N U E L DE S O U S A
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BY MICHAEL MACKO
HOW___________WORKS ERIN HAWKER
Erin Hawker, owner of Agentry PR, knows how to get the word out. She has served stints at Donna Karan, Vertu, LaForce & Stevens and Diesel. Her current client roster includes Penguin, Stetson and David Hart, to name a few. In 2013, she founded New York Men’s Day, which will have its sixth season later this month. I spent a recent morning in her Chelsea loft office to see how Erin Hawker works.
THE CHAMPAGNE BUCKET OF TOYS “I’m a former club kid, and always wore plastic Fendi skirts and carried a wand. My mom still buys me wands when she sees them and people love to give me stuffed animals. No more clubs for me, but I’m still a kid at heart.”
NEW YORK MEN’S DAY “In 2013, I had several menswear brands that needed help getting exposure. I thought there was power in numbers, so I created New York Men’s Day. I approached 100 brands as potential sponsors and they all said ‘no.’ Cadillac was number 101 and they said ‘yes,’ We’ve been growing ever since.”
THE LIPS “It’s MAC Ruby Woo and I’ve been wearing the same color for the past 15 years. If they ever discontinue it I’m good, because I buy 20 tubes at a time.”
THE HUMIDIFIER “It’s the ‘Bottle Humidifier’ by Seattlebased designer Yeongkyu Yoo, which I got from the Cooper Hewitt Museum Shop. Our office here in Chelsea, where we have been for the past five years, gets very warm. So I keep it going all year-round.
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PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN
J. HILBURN “They are a direct-toconsumer men’s tailored clothing brand who came to me looking for a way to get some press and sales during the men’s market. So we came up with a 24’ semi-rig that will travel from NYC to Dallas (their home city), making stops in 12 cities along the way. The rig will be a “Suiting Lounge’, mobile showroom, and fitting room that existing and potential customers can use to experience the brand.”
MR JULY 2016
THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MAGAZINE / MR AWARDS
A BUSINESS JOURNALS PUBLICATION
Vol. 27 No. 4