MR August 2017 by MR Magazine

AUGUST 2017

LAS VEGAS PROJECT PREVIEW

SPRING ‘18

Beach Boys Menswear’s Next Moves

MALL OVERHAUL

INTRODUCING

OUR NEXT BIG HIT

1 FLEX COLLAR

EXPANDABLE COLLAR STRETCHES 1/2 INCH

2 FLEX ARMHOLES ELASTIC THREADS FOR INCREASED MOBILITY

3 4-WAY STRETCH FOR ALL-DAY COMFORT AND FLEXIBILITY

28 NEXT MOVES

Menswear executives, both in retail and wholesale, talk about their strategies for reinvenition.

STRETCHING THE BOUNDARIES New fabrics and innovations are resulting in more men buying shirts, ties and belts than in past seasons.

A MODERN TAKE

Tailored clothing’s leaders are facing an uncertain future by refining the mix and adding more contemporary pieces.

DRESS CASUAL

Sportswear is feeling the influences of the 1980s and 1990s and the world of athletics.

STAYING CENTERED

Who says malls have no future? The death of the shopping mall has been greatly exaggerated.

Contents

Also in this issue: 4 Masthead 6 Editor’s Letter 11 Guest Editorial 14 Guest Editorial 16 Ones to Watch 22 Scene 26 Milestones 42 Trends 44 Footwear 50 Fashion 80 How Onia Works COVER: SPORT COAT & SHIRT, BEN SHERMAN. THIS PAGE: PEN, MONTEGRAPPA

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BUGATCHI.COM

EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF _________________________________________________________________ Karen Alberg Grossman (212) 600-3201 KAREN.GROSSMAN@UBM.COM MANAGING EDITOR _______________________________________________________________________ Brian Scott Lipton (212) 600-3375 BRIAN.LIPTON@UBM.COM WEB EDITOR _____________________________________________________________________________ Stephen Garner (212) 600-3350 STEPHEN.GARNER@UBM.COM FASHION DIRECTOR _____________________________________________________________________________________ Michael Macko MICHAEL.MACKO@UBM.COM

ADVERTISING GROUP PUBLISHER ______________________________________________________________________ Stuart Nifoussi (212) 600-3382 STUART.NIFOUSSI@UBM.COM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER _________________________________________________________________ Michelle Brown (212) 600-3325 MICHELLE.BROWN@UBM.COM ADVERTISING COORDINATOR __________________________________________________________________ Donna Doyle (212) 600-3347 DONNA.DOYLE@UBM.COM

ART/PRODUCTION CREATIVE DIRECTOR __________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Hans Gschliesser DESIGNER _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Jean-Nicole Venditti DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Peggy Eadie EDITORIAL/SALES OFFICE ________________________________________________________________ 2 PENN PLAZA, 15TH FL, NEW YORK, NY 10121 (212) 600-3000 BUSINESS OFFICE ____________________________________________________________________ 535 CONNECTICUT AVENUE, NORWALK, CT 06854 (203) 523-7000

ADVISORY BOARD Mario Bisio _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ PRESIDENT, MARIO’S Erick DeLeon _____________________________________________________________________________________________ STORE MANAGER/BUYER, MARTINPATRICK3 Doug Ewert ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________ CEO, TAILORED BRANDS Dan Farrington _____________________________________________________________________________________________________GMM, MITCHELLS RETAIL GROUP Dan Leppo ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________ EVP/GMM, BLOOMINGDALE’S Ken Giddon _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ OWNER, ROTHMANS Jonathan Greller ________________________________________________________________________________________________ PRESIDENT, SAKS OFF 5TH, GILT.COM Tom Ott _________________________________________________________________________________________________ CHIEF MERCHANT, SAKS OFF 5TH, GILT.COM

U B M FASHION GROUP MANAGING DIRECTOR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Michael Alic MICHAEL.ALIC@UBM.COM PRESIDENT MEN’S FASHION _________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Erik Ulin ERIK.ULIN@UBM.COM

FASHION EVENTS MAGIC/PROJECT LV/FN PLATFORM AUGUST 14-16 — MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER, LAS VEGAS, NV

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MR ISSN 1049-6726 is published four times a year (January, February, July, August) by UMB plc, 535 Connecticut Avenue, Norwalk, CT 06854. Periodical Postage paid at Norwalk, CT and at additional mailing office. Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 143678. Subscription for the U.S. $34 one year, $53 two years. Foreign $102, Air Mail. Current-issue copies (prepaid only): $10 in the United States & Possessions; $20 in Canada and Mexico; $30 all other countries. Back issues, if available: $20 in the U.S. and Possessions; $25 in Canada and Mexico; $35 in all other countries. Current-issue and back issue copies shipped inside the United States, include $7.50 for shipping and handling plus $3.50 per additional copy. Currentissue and back-issue copies shipped outside the U.S., include an additional $15.50 per order plus $6.50 per additional copy. Claims for undelivered copies not honored after 30 days from publication (90 days for overseas). POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to MR Magazine, P.O. Box 6000, Duluth, MN 55806-6000. Canadian G.S.T. number: R-124213133RT001. PUBLICATIONS MAIL GREEMENT NO. 40612608, Return Undeliverable Canadian Addresses to: IMEX Global Solutions, P. O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2, CANADA. Printed in the USA. UBM provides certain customer contact data (such as customers’ names, addresses, phone numbers, and e-mail addresses) to third parties who wish to promote relevant products, services, and other opportunities that may be of interest to you. If you do not want UBM to make your contact information available to third parties for marketing purposes, simply call toll-free 866-529-2922 between the hours of 7:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. CST and a customer service representative will assist you in removing your name from UBM’s lists. Outside the U.S., please phone 218-740-6477.

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AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED

AGJE ANS.COM

{ EDITORIAL }

WHY INDEPENDENTS WILL SURVIVE Despite much press about Amazon taking over the universe, independent stores are in a winning position. IT’S HARD TO ABSORB ALL THE BAD NEWS THESE DAYS ABOUT THE SORRY STATE OF RETAIL. New head-

lines about a retail “apocalypse,” about major industry “disruption,” about the “over-stored” state of retailing in America, appear in print, online, and on the news every day. David Rubenstein of Rubensteins in New Orleans recently had a customer come into his store (where business is healthy) and ask when they’re going out of business. “There’s so much press about the problems big department stores are having that people assume all stores are in the same shape. But we’re not mismanaged by financial guys who know little about merchandising; we don’t have skyrocketing rents. We’ve updated our mix from brands, we’ve added exciting product from emerging designers and we’re marketing in new ways. It’s all working.” Also on the plus side, most menswear independents are firmly entrenched in their communities and obviously, people like to do business with friends. Other smart moves independents are making: intensifying their web presence, hiring young sellers, adding exclusive and customized product, and creating a more eclectic ambiance with cafes, salons, wine bars, etc. Says Jerry Park from DLS buying service, “The shopping experience today needs to provide a certain level of socialization. When Howard Schultz was asked about the success of Starbucks, he noted, ‘With the sprawl and urbanization of America, people needed a Third Space to go other than home or office.’ Independent menswear stores should be that Third Space, where customers can come for relaxation, conversation, a glass of wine or just a clean bathroom.” (Hopefully they’ll buy something while there, which is why MR always suggests featuring interesting, affordable gift items.) Jerry Park, DLS buying service Park strongly believes that independents have the edge in today’s retail battlefield. “Just ask Nordstrom, who would love to own their business again and get back to being a retailer. Independents need simply to step up, take the blinders off, be innovative and have fun. Every successful sports team relies on talent, experience and a sense of team spirit; retailers who nurture these traits will be the winners in years to come.” To nurture team spirit and customer enthusiasm, Brittons in Columbia S.C. hosts about 25 events a year, including Christmas in July, Parents Weekend parties (in conjunction with USC’s Parents Weekend that welcomes 5,000 visitors) and, on this August 19th, a “Solar Eclipse” celebration (featuring Moonpies, Sunchips and Solar Eclipse cocktails.). Says Perry Lancaster (who’s in the Guinness Book of Records for a bowtie event), “It’s all about the experience.” Bob Rosenblum from Rosenblums in Jacksonville Beach, Florida suggests an industry-wide effort to bring back more formal dressing. “Once a campaign is developed, each store using social media can have their customers post a picture of themselves dressed up for the week, and everyone can vote for the best outfit. Prizes can be awarded at the store level or maybe this can be a national campaign. It seems to me our industry does little to promote appearance and dressing up to the public” We agree with Bob and would love to hear relevant ideas from our readers. Please email me at Karen.Grossman@ubm.com or let’s brainstorm in Vegas amidst all the great spring ‘18 fashion!

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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PH OTO BY KEIT H BARRACLO UG H PH OTOG RAPHY

“Independent menswear stores should be that Third Space, where customers can come for relaxation, conversation, a glass of wine.”

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{ GUEST EDITORIAL }

A MATTER OF TIME If you don’t deal with your company’s future now, the market will. BY ALLAN ELLINGER

BY FRE D HO/SH UTT E RSTOC K

“D

uring the past few years, I’ve met with many CEOs and leaders in our industry who have lamented the state of their businesses. While they acknowledged that their business was at risk if radical changes were not made, more often than not, these executives ‘tinkered’ rather than reinvented or radically changed their business structures. For the most part, they were unwilling to endure the pain and angst needed to reverse their companies diminishing future. They were in denial, rationalizing why they couldn’t do what had to be done. A number of these same CEOs are now asking themselves why they didn’t do what they should have done when they should have done it. The reality is that if you don’t deal with your company’s future now, the market will. It’s just a matter of time.” I originally wrote these words for MR magazine in 2003; ironically, they ring even more true today than back then. While top of mind issues among industry execs today are the current state of retail and the e-commerce revolution, others, such as the threatened B.A.T. (the Border Adjustment Tax) and the possible renegotiation of NAFTA, are clearly outside of our control. Now is the time to control the controllables, not pause for outcomes. Don’t wait for something to happen; take action.

Much of today’s fashion industry looks and operates much as it did in the 1980s. But the ecosystem we exist in is rapidly changing around us with a steady stream of new technologies that have fundamentally changed the way businesses operate. If you are to survive, your business must change too. While many vendors will continue servicing the department store channel, the growing retail channels are either direct-to-consumer (“DTC”), online marketplaces such as Amazon, or off-price channels such as TJ Maxx and Burlington. The future for vendors is dependent upon their ability to reinvent their business to service these channels. They need to diversify and mitigate the risk of any one channel or customer segment and adjust their business model to a digital marketplace. Develop the ability to produce smaller runs with exclusive products and more frequent injections of newness. If you are a brand and you don’t have a direct-to-consumer strategy, get one. Be available online, on mobile web, on smart phones, tablets and PCs as well as brick-and mortar retail. Barriers to entry have been permanently lowered with the internet. Digitization has allowed new disruptive entrants to capture the incremental apparel growth. VC-backed web-based businesses operate to a different

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2017 MR

{ GUEST EDITORIAL } set of values—scale quickly, profits later. Social media creates brand awareness rapidly and cheaply, undermining the competitive advantage of established brands. Your brand needs to compete with nimble new startups that may or may not be around in 2018-2019. But I can promise you that if they are not, they’ll be replaced by more of the same. The hard truth is that the pace of change is unprecedented as digitization works its way through the apparel ecosystem, from design, textile production to assembly and manufacturing, to logistics and distribution and finally to point of sale. 2016 was one of the toughest trading environments in recent history and the challenges will increase in the next few years as creative destruction ensues. Over the long haul, the digital shift should generate efficiencies that yield enhanced profitability. Opportunities coexist with these challenges. They require a new framework, out-of-the-box thinking, a willingness to test, even to try and fail, which is a lesson the apparel industry can learn from technology. Do not put off data literacy another day. Your business de-

Wood Underwear® Underwear, Shirts & Lounge Wear for Men +1.310.339.4355 - info@woodunderwear.com

MR AUGUST 2017 | MR-Mag.com

pends on you understanding the proliferation of data out there and turning the data into insights that help you take actions that protect and grow your business. If barriers to entry are down, so are opportunities for economies of scale. Protect your gross margin. Near-term, this may require limiting distribution to mitigate

“Your brand needs to compete with nimble new startups that may or may not be around in 2018.” retail markdowns. Given the number of recent store closings (Fung Global Retail & Technology counts 1,674 store closures in 2016 and 2,026 announced so far in 2017) and the sales guidance retailers are

providing, you can anticipate a high single to low double-digit sales decline this year with many of your existing customers. Reduce overhead so you can pivot to new strategic opportunities as they come to market. We sense growing impatience in the VC and PE communities with burn rates that are too high and success rates that are too low. As their interest wanes and capital dries up for unprofitable ecommerce startups, opportunities for strategies will open up at prices worth negotiating. Your core competencies of design, manufacturing and sourcing, logistics and importing remain intrinsic to the fashion industry. With the right strategic relationship, you can provide digital retailers with much needed business acumen. Invest in your business for the long haul. Digitize your business model now. Multi-decades-old apparel brands and labels were created in a different environment and doubtless many of their business practices exist in silos, a sure obstacle to nimbleness. Make collaboration across functionalities your new business mode. This will enhance speed to market and product accuracy while aligning supply with consumer demand. Finally, ask yourself if you can adapt your business model to meet the needs of these new channels and new consumer preferences/expectations? If all this is too much for you, it may time to consider monetizing your business. One thing is certain: If you don’t make the tough decisions about your company’s future now, the marketplace will do it for you. It’s just a matter of time! ● Allan Ellinger is a co-Founder and Senior Managing Partner of MMG Advisors, Inc. He is a strategic advisor to numerous owners and CEOs of fashion and consumer products companies and has successfully closed hundreds of M&A transactions and corporate restructuring assignments. He is a member of the AAFA Board of Directors, the former President of the Designer’s Collective and a former Executive Committee member of both the Men’s Fashion Association and the Fashion Roundtable. He has taught courses and lectured at fashion universities and has written numerous articles regarding the state of the apparel industry. Allan is also Chairman of Delivering Good, previously known as K.I.D.S./Fashion Delivers. This charity has distributed over $1 billion of donated products to serve the poor and disadvantaged worldwide.

{ GUEST EDITORIAL }

PRIME PROBLEM

Competing with Amazon is not a fair fight. But it’s our fight, like it or not. BY FRED ROSENFELD

I’M REMINDED of Crocodile Dundee saying, “That’s not a knife.” Amazon’s competition with conventional store retailers is not a fair fight. We were all taught to operate under a methodical regime of balance sheets, P&L’s, inventory control, earnings, ROI, EPS, etc. This is the well-ordered world within which retailers have always functioned. Amazon uses a completely different business model and alternative reality, concerned mostly about cash flow and market share, with profits a secondary factor. Investors aren’t worried about Amazon making money as long as they’re enjoying stock prices of $1,000 per share. As I said, it’s not a fair fight. Apparel purchased online has a return rate of at least 35 percent. The standard practice among consumers is to blanket their projected size, buying also a size up and a size down. The three sizes are then shipped to them at no charge. The consumer tries them on, makes his selection and returns the other two, shipped back free of charge. The store must refurbish the returns to put them back in stock. Perhaps they could have sold the returned item when it was first in stock but now, it might no longer be timely. A best-case scenario is the omni-channel retailer who allows returns to a brick-and mortar store in the hope that the consumer, once in the store, will buy something else. I know of no omni-retailer who is able to generate as much margin online as in their bricks. Usually, online margins are a lot lower: high returns and free shipping are expensive. So along comes Amazon Prime Wardrobe. The consumer orders (I did not say purchases) up to 15 items. They’re shipped free and arrive two days later. The consumer tries

them on and returns what he doesn’t want within seven days. They’re charged only for the items they keep. If they keep three, they save 10 percent; if they keep five, they get 20 percent off. The return process is simplified: the box is picked up right on their doorstep. The consumer never enters a store, which is exactly how most men want to shop. I have no idea how Amazon can make money on this concept, but I’m also sure they don’t care as long as they gain market share and their stock price goes up. Once again, it’s not a fair fight. Of course, much of the concept’s potential will depend on which brands become available on Prime Wardrobe. As of this writing, it remains unclear. However, the recent Nike agreement seems to portend the future. Prior to the agreement, Nike was the number one brand on Amazon without selling them a single item. All Nike merchandise on Amazon came through third party vendors. So now Nike will sell Amazon directly which will assuredly eliminate all those third party players. The consumer never understood that Nike on Amazon was not sold directly by Nike. It didn’t matter to them: it was Nike. Now Nike has chosen to make this huge business theirs after all. I’m convinced that most major consumer apparel brands will do the same. The coffin nails are being forged. However, I remain optimistic that the best retailers can survive. Just doing a better job will not be nearly enough: they need more interesting product. They need to reexamine their store fleet. They need to bite the bullet and realize their reality has changed and time alone will not make anything better. ●

“The consumer never understood that Nike on Amazon was not sold directly by Nike. It didn’t matter to them: it was Nike.”

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FRED ROSENFELD is an apparel industry consultant; he can be reached at frosenfeld@comcast.net

{ ONES { CLOTHING TO WATCH} }

“Clothes that look great in any scenario without sacrificing comfort or mobility.”

Upward Mobility PE360

New to the MOVE section of Project Las Vegas this season is Perry Ellis’ line of activewear, PE360, which aims to be the meeting ground of both performance and function with pieces that stretch, reflect and move with the wearer. “Perry Ellis has always been about go-anywhere dressing,” says Michael Maccari, creative director of Perry Ellis. “By adding PE360 to the collection we have been able to go beyond everyday with versatile pieces that match the lifestyle of the Perry Ellis guy. He wants clothes that look great in any scenario without sacrificing comfort or mobility.” So what are some of the more popular items that guys are after? “Our active stretch shirt has become more than just the base for the collection,” notes Maccari. “While the shirt is simple, it is meticulously crafted with details such as underarm venting, four-way stretch and articulated seaming that are topped off with a moisture-wicking finish. The slim fit active tech pant is also a standout piece that’s great for biking to work.” The collection, which retails between $40 and $298, is already available in stores like Dillard’s, Asos, and select Equinox locations, and plans to expand its reach are in the works. “Our current offerings are really resonating well with our consumers, so we’re planning on growing the PE360 brand even further with new silhouettes and styles,” adds Maccari. – SG

In The Mix GABRIELE PASINI

Since he was a boy, Gabriele Pasini would tell the tailor who made his first bespoke suits how to cut the lapels for his jackets and what would be the proper length for his trousers. He later had the good fortune to work with Neapolitan master tailors, from whom he acquired the technique behind the perfect construction of the jacket. Then, after working for various fashion firms and opening his own store in Modena 25 years ago, Pasini signed a joint venture agreement with Lardini in 2012 for the production and distribution of the Gabriele Pasini brand in Italy and abroad. His signature style of British dandyism meets Neapolitan tailoring meets Baroque influence can be seen throughout his line of beautiful three-piece suits, knitwear, denim trousers, and gilets. “I like to take traditional menswear pieces and make them more contemporary,” says Pasini. “I often mix a classic jacket and waistcoat in traditional fabrics with a pair of really cool trousers that evoke more a streetwear element. I love to mix different styles together.” Best-sellers include three-piece suits (which wholesale at $375-$650), jackets ($256-$400), and gilets ($95-$150). With such great value for an impeccable product, it’s not surprising the brand’s reach has grown outside of its Milan and Modena flagship stores to being distributed in multi-branded stores in Japan, Korea, Europe and Los Angeles. “We’re really focusing on the American market now,” adds Pasini. “It’s an untapped market that I believe we can do well in.” – SG

His signature style of British dandyism meets Neapolitan tailoring meets Baroque influence can be seen throughout his line. 16

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{ ONES { CLOTHING } } TO WATCH

Shorts Story MOCHA SALT

Since launching in 2015, Australian swimwear label Mocha Salt has managed to go beyond swimwear to inspire a cult following across Europe and the U.S., with distribution and influence throughout over 35 countries worldwide. The brand was originally founded with the intention to push the boundaries of men’s swimwear a little further by applying advanced technical fabrics and performance innovations to traditional tailoring and craftsmanship. “Women look amazing by the pool, wearing stylish swimwear and beachwear, while men are often lost inside enormous amounts of fabric that make no sense,” said designer and founder Rik van Donk. “It’s not stylish and it’s not practical; the amount of fabric flapping about and weighing down with water just makes it very uncomfortable.” As a result, van Donk went to work to develop a shorter pair of swim shorts, perfect for wearing both in and out of the water; fitted enough to look good on a wide variety of body types; and made of a slightly more robust material than other swinwear. While the brand’s printed swim shorts sell really well, says Van Donk, there are also great tees and linen shorts. (Retail prices for the line range from $69-$129.) As for what’s next, van Donk says: “Each season builds on the previous collection and takes it in a new direction, so the line always feels fresh.” – SG

Applying advanced technical fabrics and performance innovations to traditional tailoring and craftsmanship.

Good As Agolde AGOLDE

Originally established in the late 1980s by Citizens of Humanity founder Jerome Dahan, premium denim label AGOLDE was relaunched a few seasons ago, with an emphasis on appealing to a fashion-forward, millennial customer. In doing so, the brand has taken aim at consumers who connect with the downtown youth culture through exclusive denim fabrications, fits, and collaborations, such as the one with rapper A$AP Ferg. “Due to the success and continued demand of our first A$AP Ferg x AGOLDE denim collection, we’ve partnered with Ferg again for a second collection,” says AGOLDE creative director Karen Phelps. “The collection expands outside of denim, taking on a unisex design approach mixing denim with repurposed utility jackets, shirts, and layers of ‘80s New Yorkinspired tracksuits. The response to the collection has been overwhelming this season, which we are really excited about.” While these ‘80s and ‘90s influences are still important for AGOLDE’s market, Phelps maintains that stretch is what men really want in what they wear. “From a fabric perspective, stretch continues to be a focus for our men’s line,” adds Phelps. “We are adding more ‘90s references in our comfort stretch and rigid fabrications. Neater silhouettes with androgynous connotations as well as a heavy importance on mixing proportions are key for us.” Expect to find the men’s denim collection at retailers like East Dane, Revolve Clothing, Alternative Apparel, TNT and The Webster. Popular denim styles retail between $138 for cleaner, raw denim styles to $178 for more detail-intensive washes. Jackets start at around $188 for repurposed utility and $368 for vintage washed denim jackets. – SG

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The brand has taken aim at consumers who connect with the downtown youth culture.

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{ SCENE }

A WORLD OF FLAVORS

Las Vegas’ hottest new restaurants allow diners to sample delicacies from some of the world’s most exotic and sophisticated cuisines. So when you come for the trade shows, make sure to bring your appetite! BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

1. BANDITO LATIN KITCHEN & CANTINA Local restaurateur Kent Harman’s 4,000square foot eatery in the Hughes Center is a testament to just how varied Latin-American cusine can be. Chef Chris Kight’s extensive menu ranges from turkey chorizo albondingas to habanero shrimp to tacos (made with house-made tortillas) filled with carne asada, braised octopus and baja fish. Natually, everything can be washed down with inventive cocktails, interesting wines, craft beers, and, yes, margaritas! (325 Hughes Center Drive. 702-857-7550).

What could be more winning after a long day than a delicious dinner? 2.

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2. CHICA LAS VEGAS You won’t find quesadilla and burritos at this new showplace at the Venetian Hotel. Celebrity chef Lorena Garcia’s menu takes its inspiration from both Mexico and a variety of South American countries, ranging from Venezuela and Peru to Brazil and Argentina. How about anise-and piloncillo arepas stuffed with braised short rib, grilled corn lollipops, or a shrimp and quinoa cazela?As for libations, expect plenty of delicious cocktails made with tequila, mezcal and rum, as well as a wide array of wines (many made by women!) (3355 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-805-8472). 3. BLUE RIBBON New York City-based restaurants are no strangers to Sin City, so it’s no surprise that Bruce and Eric Bromberg have finally opened a branch of their longtime NYC sensation at the aptly-named Cosmpolitan Hotel. Yep, the famed Beef Marrow and Oxtail Marmalade has made the trip. But if you’ve won big at the tables (or made a big sale), make sure to order “The Cosmopolitan,” a multi-tiered platter of shellfish and caviar, served with a cold bottle of champagne! Now, that’s what we like to call a winning combination! (3708 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-736-0808). 4. OTERO ROBATA GRILL & SUSHI Chef Fernando Sposato’s “progressive Japanese” restaurant at the Mirage will have you coming back night after night. How else can you sample sweet-and-sour calamari, a variety of truly unusual specialty rolls, superb ramen dishes, the signature cast iron Wagyu ribeye steak, and the extensive selection of mouthwatering delicacies from the Robata Grill, ranging from baby artichokes and Japanese eggplant to black tiger shrimp, day boat scallops, and baby lamb chops. There’s plenty to satisfy your thirst, as well, from refreshing cocktails to bourbons, whiskeys and Japanese liquors. (3400 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-791-7111).

{ SCENE }

IT’S HOT! BE COOL!

Sin City offers a host of non-sinful ways to have fun in (and out) of the sun, from visiting unusual museums to seeing colorful hotel displays, listening to terrific concerts and seeing touring Broadway shows. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

1. THE NEON MUSEUM Make your reservation now to take a tour of this unusual collection of more than 200 neon signs (the ultimate symbol of Las Vegas). You will not only get to view some of the most unusual, inventive artwork around, but you’ll also learn about who created them, what inspired them, when and where the signs were made, and what role they played in Las Vegas’ distinctive history. Even the museum’s visitors’ center is considered a rare work of art! (770 N. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-387-6366).

Who cares if it’s 110 degrees in the shade? You can still play it cool, even in August!

2. THE BELLAGIO CONSERVATORY Long a favorite of tourists for its spectacular outdoor fountain, elaborately-decorated lobby, and indoor art gallery, the popular Bellagio Hotel is adding one more attraction this summer. Its conservatory and botanical gardens are being transformed into the Italian island of Capri by renowned designer Ed Libby. This free (and open 24-hours) installation will feature such wonders as 26-foot-high stone arches, a four-tiered fountain, a 30-foot high lemon tree, a 12-foot-high bell tower, and a foliage-covered wall lined with four lemon toparies comprised of 1,400 flowers. It’s like two trips in one. (3600 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 888-987-6667).

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DANIELLE ADAMS

3. RICHARD MARX These days, it seems like you can’t swing a proverbial cat on the Las Vegas Strip without hitting a pop music icon. So it should hardly be surprising that 1980s heartthrob Richard Marx is settling into the Flamingo Hotel for a limited engagement (starting on August 15). His new show, “Satisfied: Only the Hits,” promises to live up to its title, guaranteeing that his fans will hear such chart-toppers as “Hold onto the Nights” and “Now and Forever” (as well as the stories behind them) in a wonderfully intimate showroom. (3555 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-772-2782). 4. SOMETHING ROTTEN You don’t really have to be a Renaissance man, or even a lover of the Bard of Avon, to laugh your way through this endearing, entertaining Broadway musical, which hits the Smith Center (from August 8-13) as part of its national tour Not when there are such spectacular performers onstage as Rob McClure and Josh Grissetti as the Bottom brothers, a pair of struggling playwrights, and the super-sexy Adam Pascal (of “Rent” fame), who brings down the house as a rock-star-like William Shakespeare. And yes, fear not, all ends well! (361 Symphony Park Avenue. 702-749-2012).

{ MILESTONES }

THREE DECADES After a tumultuous but highly successful 30 years, Joseph Abboud is exactly where he wants to be: directing menswear design for about 1,500 stores. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

t’s always a pleasure to interview menswear designer Joseph Abboud, who cares more about making beautiful salable clothing than getting rave front-page reviews. ‘‘I know I'm not the darling of the press," he confides without hesitation. ‘‘Editors love to write about the newest and most outlandish fashion whereas I'm about brand integrity, consistency and relevance." That is exactly why the brand has evolved aver the past three decades and why the award-winning designer has such incredible influence on how real men dress. On the 30-year anniversary of launching his own label, Abboud sits down with MR to talk about milestones, challenges, creative courage and the future of retail. Can you talk briefly about how your career got started? I started working part-time for Murray Pearlstein at Louis Boston during college. When I graduated in 1972, I had three options: graduate school, teaching French at Brookline High School, or management team at Louis Boston. I chose the third option and spent eight years working with Murray, the most brilliant merchant I’ve ever known. From Murray, I learned creative courage: if your store looks like you believe in something, your customers will believe it too. For example, instead of showing a few units of a trend he believed in, he'd show all flatfront pants or all brown suits with such conviction that he actually made trends hap-

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pen! Few merchants these days have that kind of courage. At age 30, I moved to NYC to work for Ralph Lauren, starting in sales and moving to design. No one has a clearer vision of or fiercer dedication to his brand than Ralph: even with recent management problems, it’s a multi-billion-dollar business built on a dream that has remained true to its core DNA. From there, I worked with Barry Bricken; then the Freedberg Company offered to back me in creating my own label. We launched in 1987 with a shop at Bergdorf Goodman. The collection was ultimately in every major specialty store; I believe its success was because we filled a void between the American Ivy looks of Ralph Lauren and the fast Eurofashion of Armani. If Ralph was New York and Armani was Milan, we hit a sophisticated spot in the mid-Atlantic Ocean! Let’s skip the stressful years of selling your name and buying it back (and your successful stint directing design at Hickey Freeman and HSM) and jump to the present… I joined Tailored Brands in 2012, we got back the Abboud label in 2013 and I now have a 4000-square-foot Joseph Abboud collection store on Madison Avenue that serves as a laboratory for product that ultimately translates to 1,500 Tailored Brand stores (TMW, Jos. A. Bank, Moores Canada). The flagship helps me diffuse ideas: for example, the success of linen this season

{ MILESTONES } will define the trend at moderate pricepoints for spring '18. You know, Tailored Brands has a huge advantage over many of its competitors: numerous online businesses are now looking to open brick-and-mortar stores while we already have that down pat. We’ve got the infrastructure, the wardrobe consultants, the expert tailors. You can't underestimate the importance of fit these days, which is why the tailoring component is so critical! About 35 percent of clothing business at our flagship is now MTM, at retails from $795 and up. And Men’s Wearhouse is definitely moving more upscale, too. More upscale, perhaps, but isn't the core business still largely promotional, based on Buy One, Get One deals? We're moving away from that but it takes some time. Our mission is to offer the best quality at the best price possible, to underpromise and over-deliver. We're also in the midst of a sea change at Jos. A. Bank where the DNA is definitely getting younger. This business, established in 1905, has always been a bastion of traditional menswear, which is not a bad thing if we can make traditional relevant for a younger customer. I truly believe in the Bank brand, in the potential of updated traditional product with an authentic heritage. Established in 1905, Bank should have been (and can still be) an American icon like Brooks Brothers. What do you see as the key challenges confronting the menswear industry and what solutions do you suggest? I believe that menswear has been infected by womenswear, and that quest for critical acclaim has set menswear back hundreds of years. Runway shows are important but fashion editors have an obligation to consider relevancy vs. Cirque de Soleil; if they're talking to men, talk to them in a language they can understand. Fashion is trend-driven but the revolutionary changes that often bolster the women’s business are rarely successful in menswear. By featuring extreme and outlandish men’s fashion, we turn a lot of guys off. Historically, menswear is evolution, not revolution. Maybe a fraction of one percent of men are interested in extreme runway fashion, which is why I believe in brand integrity and consistency. But consistency can get boring! What should menswear merchants be doing do reignite sales that seem to be in a slump? Everyone talks about creating an experience. I don’t think it’s so complicated; I believe it’s about exciting presentations of compelling

fashion that’s relevant to men’s lives. The experience we offer in our Madison flagship is a bit old world, focusing on an enticing environment, exceptional service and expert tailoring. And this is what young guys are responding to! But young today is not limited to millennials: our young-thinking guys are mostly between 36 and 55. I also believe that the greatest myth about menswear retailing is that guys shop by price. No, they don't! Stores need to lead with compelling product rather than price promotions. After 30 years of this, I’ve learned to be true to my vision and not go off on too many tangents. Unfortunately for many great conventional store merchants, I believe the future of retailing is vertical. In 1967, when Ralph first launched his collection, there were probably 100 great deCaption: partment stores and 5,000 specialty Top: Abboud in his heyday; stores. In 1987, when I launched, middle, a label there were maybe 25 department for a special stores and 2,000 great specialty collection; stores. Thirty years later, there are bottom; his about five department stores and 100 Madison Avenue store. independent specialty stores. So the retail world is changing: the value proposition that vertical stores can offer customers makes it hard for conventional stores to compete. Of everything now happening at Tailored Brands, what are you most proud of ? Definitely our MTM business, which has tripled in size over the past year; we make 400-500 (and growing) Joseph Abboud MTM suits a day in our New Bedford factory, providing good jobs to 750 talented artisans, men and women. How can I not be proud when I see how much pride they take in their work? The value in these canvas garments (all Biella goods from top mills) is amazing as is the three-week delivery (with a 10-day rush option). Of course I'm extremely proud of our Abboud flagship and the exceptional product we sell there. And I'm eternally grateful to Doug Ewert who understands that the true value of a brand is not just about a label sewn into the clothes. He’s a terrific leader who doesn't take a lot of credit for himself but is doing so much to create a dynamic organization. Do I think there are other things we can do? Of course. And one is to better tell our story, to get the word out about who we are and what we offer. But we already have a presence with a huge number of American consumers, and these numbers will grow as the product evolves. Are you even thinking about retirement? They’re going to have to drag me out in a casket. This isn't a job for me: it’s what I love; it’s who I am. ●

“From Murray Pearlstein I learned creative courage: if your store looks like you believe in something, your customers will believe it too.”

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2017 MR

{ INDUSTRY ROUNDUP }

NEXT MOVE

Top menswear execs, both retailers and wholesalers, talk reinvention. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

“We’ve encouraged our associates to be forward thinking, with a focus on adapting to the evolving consumer environment, enhancing our brands and their competitive positioning across product lines and geographies and adjusting our procedures to make it easier to effect change. From a business perspective, we diversified our distribution of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger products into specialty accounts in the U.S. and Europe that have relevance with younger generations. We significantly increased our brands’ social and digital reach. We enhanced our own online digital commerce platforms, recalibrated our relationships with our traditional wholesale customers to account for the growing digital component of their businesses and expanded our presence with pure-play digital accounts. Across our digital footprint, we’re working closely with our top wholesale partners to better transform the online consumer experience across each of our brands. In addition, we’ve invested in our future by evolving our supply chain, building upon our operating platforms and harnessing sustainable innovation to enhance our efficiencies across the organization, with a focus on embracing speed across PVH, working to reduce lead times, leveraging the power of data and simplifying processes in a world that is becoming faster-paced and more rewarding of companies that are dynamic and responsive. As we work toward these objectives, we remain committed to corporate responsibility, as we recognize both the opportunity and the responsibility for business to take a leading role in addressing global issues.”

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Sam Glaser, Stitched

“At a time in retail defined by e-commerce, we're tripling-down on the in-store experience in our three haberdasheries (STITCHED Miami and DC, as well as our Las Vegas flagship). This includes Scotch Locker Lounges in every store and a styling-first approach to sales. At the same time, we're in an era of fast-fashion in which consumers see and demand trends in real-time. So we’re using our custom clothing resources to produce our XXXX Collection of ready-to-wear suiting in four weeks from concept to sales floor.”

Gary Flynn, M. Dumas & Sons

“We saw an opportunity on King Street here in Charleston when the neighboring shoe store closed. We created a beautiful shoe shop in the front of our store and now have all the brands our customers have been asking for (Ferragamo, Tods, New Balance) as well as a terrific team of shoe experts running that department. Another focus is our website. We haven't had an online shopping platform that our loyal customers could access from their own homes. We have out-of-town customers who’ve been shopping with us for years via phone or email, and we want to make their experience even simpler. I feel that’s critical; we have to think like our customer thinks. We want to be here for another 100 years and we're focused on evolving the business with, and ahead of, what our customers desire.”

Ron Wurtzburger, Peerless

“Our business continues stronger than it’s ever been. The major change we’re making is to more aggressively and more frequently

SHUTTERSTOCK

Ken Duane, PVH

PROJECT LAS VEGAS | BOOTH 29250

{ INDUSTRY ROUNDUP } update fabric, fit and color. We’ve just changed all of our in-stock programs to stretch fabrics and, looking at the stores’ weekly sellthroughs, this has been a great move! Retailers shouldn’t be afraid to make major changes in their business, especially now that so much of the industry is going through a revolution. The retailers who remain are the smart ones, the survivors, who are already making bold moves to stay on top. I realize we’re in a digital age but a computer can never give the same service and attention to customers as a great salesman. We as an industry are far from dead: I’m not at all worried about our future!”

Ken Gushner, Boyds

“We are rebuilding the entire store: we’re in phase 1 as we speak. Stores today have to evolve and invest to provide a proper engaging experience for their customer or they are on their way to obscurity.”

Erick DeLeon, MartinPatrick3

“We dive into what works and constantly push ourselves to keep our customers engaged. So whether it's events or products, we want our clients to have a great and different experience with every visit. Above all, though, our service will always remain number one!”

Joseph Janus, WeSC

"As a streetwear brand, it’s important that we understand not only the consumer shopping habits but also the consumer mindset. The lines of gender and how streetwear consumers dress are much more blurred and fluid. This is why we have decided to no longer have a Men’s and a Women's collection, but to make our whole collection gender-neutral. Brands and retailers really must take the lead from their customers to survive the changing landscape."

Steve Shuck, Stag

then maybe the retail business is not right for you. Granted, there are all types of factors and outside variables that interfere with this utopian view but optimism must be the driving force.”

Joelle Grunberg, Lacoste

“Two years ago, Lacoste leadership in France decided to reinvest in the brand here in America. As you know, Rene Lacoste felt very connected to the U.S.; his son developed the business here in the 1950s. Although recent business in the U.S. has been tenuous, our multitiered strategy has been working. We are strengthening the more premium parts of our business, as well as our sports heritage (tennis and golf). Our new face of the brand is Novak Djokovic and we’ve created a namesake collection available only in Lacoste boutiques. Department stores are still a key part of our U.S. strategy; in most, we have 2,000-3,000-square-foot shop-in-shops. We also sell better specialty stores, we own 80 company stores, 20 in Canada, and we’re strengthening our direct-to-consumer ecommerce. Our goal is to tighten our wholesale distribution to better control pricing. While most companies want to sell more, more, more, we are looking to put less product in fewer doors to ensure exclusivity. This is difficult at first, but it pays off later on. Fortunately, as a family business, we can focus on healthy long-term growth rather than meeting quarterly sales plans.”

Larry Rosen, Harry Rosen

“If you believe “If you believe the media, there will be one reretailer in ten years and that will be the media, there will maining Amazon. But I don’t believe the media. Retailers will adapt to change. There’s no be one remaining doubt that digitally augmented selling is retailer in ten years and the future so our goal is to find ways of taking our in-store strengths and interpreting that will be Amazon. them digitally. That’s what we’re working on.” But I don’t believe the media.” David Katz, Randa

Larry Rosen, Harry Rosen “We’re approaching the changing landscape on “Randa is responding to challenges in the new a lot of levels: improving our service in stores; retail landscape via our strategic template: Moats, providing a more interesting store experience Boats & Bridges. Moats represent “protecting the through product, presentation, and events; expanding our core” and building barriers to competitive entry. We are getrange of products (we recently launched a home collection); lis- ting better at what we do best, investing capital and human retening to our customers and finding ways to build even greater sources in product innovation, understanding and leveraging the loyalty; building on our social media successes; and fueling our evolving consumer path-to-purchase, increasing customer enrobust online business. We believe it's mportant to listen to your gagement at current points of sale, reinforcing our industry-leadcustomers and tailor your offerings to their needs in terms of ing market share, and recruiting, training and retaining great product itself but also editorially.” talent. Bridges represent expanding our reach into “adjacent” markets with new retail partnerships and expansion into product classifications related to those we already dominate. Boats are Reece Crisp, Farfetch “Over the past few years, we’ve established ourselves as the online transformational investments in people, process and business platform to sell the world’s greatest selection of luxury goods. It is models. Randa is investing in wearable technology, artificial intelligence, direct-to-consumer marketing, and entirely new gocrucial for us to continue to push this message.” to-market strategies, with more to follow. For fashion and retail, the acceleration of change is faster than ever, and we believe the Wayne Gross, East Dane “We will continue to put our customer first and ensure that we’re best is yet to come.” assorting for his needs and tastes through the East Dane filter.”

Jerry Park, DLS/BATA

“Great Broadway performers go on stage each night thinking this will be the performance of a life time. The good independent retailer opens his doors each day thinking today will bring record-breaking sales. If you don’t have this type of optimism or enthusiasm,

MR AUGUST 2017 | MR-Mag.com

Doug Ewert, Tailored Brands

“Our goal is to innovate the men’s specialty retail store of the future by delivering unmatched convenience, service, and personalized solutions in a seamless, integrated omni-channel experience. There has never been a more exciting time to be a men's apparel retailer.” ●

FALL/WINTER 2017 VIEW THE ENTIRE STEVEN LAND COLLECTION AT T H E U P C O M I N G C O L L E C T I V E L A S V E GA S S H I R T S & T I E S : L N D N E C K W E A R • S U I T S : S T I T C H E D H O L D I N G S • S H O E S / B E LT S : G LO B E F O OT W E A R • S O C K S : GA R M E N T G R O U P • WAT C H E S : R K I C O R P • U N D E R W E A R : T E X T I S S • H AT S : B R U N O CA P E LO B o o t h 3 3 0 7 5 - 3 3 0 9 0 • S T E V E N L A N D. C O M • 8 0 0 - 5 5 5 - 4 0 0 9

{ TAILORED CLOTHING }

A MODERN TAKE Facing the future by refining the mix.

here are many creative ways to merchandise a tailored clothing department these days, including eliminating the department all together and mixing tailored components in with sportswear. That said, in our still very casual world, many retailers are seeing a long-overdue and much welcome resurgence in tailored clothing sales. Tom Ott, SVP and GMM of Saks Fifth Avenue, is sensing a renaissance in tailored clothing that he hasn’t felt in many years. “It reminds me of the way business tracked in the ‘90s; it feels to me like the beginning of an important change,” he says. “Young guys are really interested in tailored clothing, in styles that are unique, fresh and different. This customer is more sophisticated and interested in building a wardrobe; they understand subtle differences in models. It all bodes well for future growth.” To appeal to this younger customer, Ott confides that he’s adding some “gentler” price points. “But it’s more about attitude than price,” he notes. “Even in the luxury business, the best models are trimmer and closer to the body so the appeal is to all age groups. We’re using our Brookfield Place men’s store as an incubator to test new looks. Our younger customers want something different, something fresh, not the standard European looks, but styles that are designed and refined for today’s American lifestyle.” Ott also shares that he’s working with manufacturers to develop more exclusive models and fabrics, as well as designs based on yesteryear yet totally modern. “There’s a huge change in the population as Baby Boomers continue to move on,” he maintains. “It’s hard for the clothing industry to change so it’s our job to challenge the status quo, to listen to the young people on our teams to maximize this monster opportunity.” Durand Guion, fashion director at Macy’s, is also optimistic based on current sales trends. “Seasonal fabrications including khaki, seersucker and linen blends have been top performers and should continue next spring. We are integrating more

fashion into separates and sportcoat assortments as our customer is increasingly confident in expressing himself through tailored clothing.” Guion gives much credit to the tailored clothing buying and planning teams at Macy’s. “They’re extraordinarily talented and have been recognized for their outstanding achievements in this ever-evolving retail climate. They continue to listen and respond to our customers’ needs while at the same time curating compelling assortments from seasonal to evening that are clearly resonating.” At Lanes in South Miami, Ed Boas (whose clothing business is 60 percent suits, 40 percent sportscoats) is selling “clothing that’s different from what the guy already has in his closet.” He observes with regret that the market and mills are contracting so the breadth of their collections is shrinking. “You sometimes see the same swatch in several lines, which is unfortunate because uniqueness is key. If someone told me last year that I’d sell out of a red windowpane linen sportcoat, I would have laughed. We’re seeing tiny checks slow down in favor of sportcoats with presence and personality.” Bruce Liles from Liles Clothing Studio in Raleigh N.C. benefits from being in a shopping center heavy on sportswear stores (Peter Millar, Southern Tide, Vineyard Vines). “Although we do mostly MTM (85 percent in suits, 50 percent in sportcoats), we’re starting to move our rack clothing into more fashionable looks, including DBs and vested models. Blues continue as a strong trend, although they’re slightly less bright, A “sport tailoring” look from Eleventy. while sage (a dusty grey-green) sells great in sportcoats.” Liles adds that hiring younger sellers has proven beneficial, as has outfitting the local hockey team! David Rubenstein from Rubensteins in New Orleans reports much more action in sportcoats than

Must-Haves for Spring ‘18 Tailored Clothing: Performance fabrics / Bolder patterned sportcoats / Linens, linen blends, seersuckers / The knit blazer 32

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COURTESY OF ELVENTY

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

VIEW THE SPRING

COLLECTIONS AT MAGIC BOOTH #35222 IN PROJECT MENSWEAR

{ TAILORED CLOTHING } in suits. “Our sportcoat business is way ahead, especially fancies in nice blue/gray plaids and the fabulous knit blazer from Eleventy ($595 retail). We also do great with Canali sportcoats ($525$1,800) and we’re still selling brighter blue suits. We in the industry might be overdosed on bright blue but when you think about it: only a small percentage of customers have it in their closets, so I’m buying more for 2018.” But for Scott Shapiro from Syd Jerome in Chicago, whose store mix is 80 percent clothing/furnishings, 20 percent sportswear, it’s classic suits that sell best, especially from such great brands as Canali, Samuelsohn, Isaia and Zegna. “For us, tailored clothing drives sales of everything else. For example, a guy came in this morning and bought six sportcoats, six pants, some shirts, ties and belts. If we didn’t have clothing inventory, we couldn’t sell anything else,” notes Shapiro, “We still cater to professionals—attorneys and financial guys—so a suit to them is a commodity, a business expense,” he adds. “Blue suits drive the business, from ice to navy. And grays from pearl to charcoal. Even in warm weather, we sell mostly wools thanks to incredible new performance fabrics that hold their shape, don’t wrinkle, and are totally breathable.” Shapiro acknowledges that his business runs against the norm. “While most stores are growing made-to-measure, we carry a lot of inventory. And while most stores are adding more sportswear, we’d like to expand tailored clothing. I’ve learned that success with sportswear brands is fleeting. whereas guys are incredibly loyal to their clothing brands. So we’re investing more than ever in clothing: in inventory, in skilled tailors (we now have 10), in new equipment for our tailors. We’re also looking at new ways to work with our wholesale partners on exclusives.” From a vendor perspective, manufacturers are also responding to the need for change. Says Nelson Suriel, vice president at Jack Victor, “Our sportcoats continue to evolve through the introduction of softer, less constructed models that are lighter and feature a more natural and rounder shoulder. Through R&D at our manufacturing facility, we’ve been able to develop comfortable, less structured clothing that still has clean lines and the refined look of a premium product. In suits,

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performance remains key. Men want clothing that travels easily and stays comfortable. New this season is our ‘Performer’ suit featuring stretch, wrinkle- and moisture-resistance in a luxury fabric that’s soft to the touch and not overly technical.” “We’ve just changed all of our in-stock programs to stretch fabrics and, looking at stores’ weekly sell-throughs, this has been a great move!” confides Ronny Wurtzburger at Peerless, who dominates the department store business with dozens of strong clothing labels. At Eleventy, a hot Italian collection relatively new to the United States, it’s all about the mix of clothing and sportswear. “Sport tailoring is the new office casual,” proclaims Geoff Schneiderman, president of Eleventy North America. Over at Corneliani, celebrating its 60th anniversary and famous for its ID jacket, Maurizio Mantovani, CEO of the Americas, explains, “The clothing world is changing: we’re moving from a suit company to a more contemporary maker offering a broad range of men’s fashion from dayinto-evening, weekdays into weekend to beautiful leisure business wear.” Pino Vaghi, an upscale rep for Maurizio Baldessari and other great European collections, sums it up well. “From having to wear tailored clothing to wanting to wear tailored clothing, young guys today are loving to wear tailored clothing!” If the clothing industry has not yet inspired a revolution, increasing interest from a growing Tom Ott, Saks Fifth Avenue demographic is a very good omen! ●

“It’s our job to challenge the status quo, to listen to the young people on our teams in order to maximize this monster opportunity.”

Above, a contemporary look from Corneliani. Below, jackets and suits from Jack Victor.

{ FURNISHINGS }

STRETCHING THE BOUNDARIES Innovations that allow for greater comfort are one key to why men are buying more shirts, ties and belts than in the past. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

risp and clean-looking shirts. Colorful ties. Beautifully hand-crafted leather belts. If someone tells you these are remnants of the past, tell them they’ve been misinformed. Even in the era of so-called “business casual,” men continue to take great pride in their appearance, especially as new fabrics and other inventions are giving them more options to both look and feel wonderful. “Innovation has paved the way for unparalleled advances in the world of fashion,” says David Sirkin, president of dress furnishings at PVH. “We have embraced technologies that provide the ultimate

MR AUGUST 2017 | MR-Mag.com

in comfort from advances in stretch to innovative garment construction in our portfolio brands.” “I feel very encouraged by what I am seeing on the street,” says veteran neckwear designer Barbara Blank. “The bottom line is that when you give the customer a reason to buy something, they will buy. It sounds corny, but it’s true.” Top: Ledbury is banking on shirts that more easily transition from day to night. From left: a woven belt from Anderson, coloful ties from the Tie Bar, and new Italian leather belts from Boconi are among the furnishings that well-dressed men will be wearing in the coming months.

{ FURNISHINGS } For example: while selling ties is the raison d’etre of Chicagobased retailer The Tie Bar, it’s now only one part of the company’s ever-growing business. “The Tie Bar’s expansion into dress shirts has become a driving force for our business, with a positive impact on all our categories,” says Allyson Lewis, the company’s CEO. “Moving forward, that means we will continue to release new seasonal shirt collections.” In shirting, the key words are comfort and stretch, say both retailers and vendors. “We’re finding our customers are demanding comfort and versatility more than ever,” says Sam Glaser, vice president at specialty store Stitched. “Within furnishings, we’ve seen that trend in both performance and athleisure shirting.” Among the leaders in the category (and a big seller at Stitched) is Dallas-based brand Mizzen + Main. “Our performance fabric shirts have seen a far better sellthrough rate than average and that’s because consumers are looking for what we call dress-comfortable shirts,” says CEO and founder Kevin Lavelle. “As a result, our spring/summer 2018 collection will be our largest and most diverse yet.” Another customer favorite, Virginia-based luxury shirtmaker Ledbury is also seeing major changes in its business. “Dress shirt walls and men’s furnishings departments look more and more sporty as customers want clothes that can transition easily from day to night, from business to casual settings,” says CEO Paul Trible. “While the plain whites and blues will never disappear, they are losing closet space. Fabric is also very important to us, so we are big on blends this year, such as 70/30 linen combinations that offer the benefits of linen without the wrinkles.” Mitch Gambert, director of business development at Mel Gambert Shirtmakers, a leading made-to-measure company, warns that there are two sides of the newness coin. “While comfort has always been a priority, it is now even more important to consumers, many of whom are confusing ‘fitted’ with ‘ill-fitting,’” he says. “And while I do believe stretch fabrics have merit, the evolution of fabrics is not necessarily in step with the evolution of commercial laundries. So while some of the newly introduced fabrics may feel great the first couple of times they are worn, they might not perform up to par with the daily rigors of washing and wearing,” he adds. It should come as no surprise that, as in every segment of the apparel business, technology is bringing consumers into the furnishings department. “We’ve put stretch into some of or our neckwear which meets the technology in our shirts,” says Richard Carroll, vice president of marketing and creative director at Randa.

“Most specifically, we’ve introduced a back-neck panel so that when you move, it moves with the shirt.” Randa’s biggest technological push, however, is its new ExactFit belt. “We’ve engineered this belt that looks like your normal leather belt, but actually stretches up to two inches,” says Carroll. “There are no holes in the front, and the mechanism in the back allows you to adjust it by each quarter inch. It’s something we developed by looking at footwear technology.” Meanwhile, at three-year-old company Vardama, their stainand-sweat resistant shirts and ties are catching on with retailers and consumers alike. “We have definitely seen a strong demand for this product,” says the company’s founder and CEO Kautsubh Vardama. “In particular, millennials are highly interested in all sorts of differentiated products, such as ours. And while we’re constantly on back order with our blue and white shirts, we’re working on expanding into designs that translate from work to evenings.” Still, there are many reasons that customers are returning to furnishings. Blank says she has seen an uptick in both engineered prints and ties that feature flowers, paisley, tiny micro neats, as well as textured solids. “All of these are trending well, and I expect these categories will be even better for spring 2018,” she says. At Randa’s Countess Mara brand, sales are strong in their new line of made-in-Italy neckwear. “When a consumer is in a store, they’re not only looking for something they don’t have, but they want to hear that artisan story,” says Carroll. “When you give them that, plus a great hand and wonderful prints, they’re less worried about Clockwise from top left: price. For spring ‘18, we really beStain-resistant shirts from lieve fabrications and color will Vardama, Randa’s adjustable drive neckwear business. Ties ExactFit belt, “dress-confortable” won’t be as shiny as before and shirts from Mizzen & Main and beautiful exotic belts from Torino we’re banking on a lot of pink.” are making their mark in the Artisanship and color are funrishings market. also key in the belt business, say such diverse companies as suit maker Blujacket (which just launched a gorgeous line of Italian-made belts), Anderson (featuring plenty of stretch leathers in its upcoming collection), and Nashville-based Boconi, which is launching a spring line of nearly two-dozen Italian-made leather belts inspired by such rock stars as Bono, Stevie Wonder, Phil Collins and Steven Tyler. Meanwhile, despite their cost, exotics continue to do very well for New Orleans-based Torino. “Exotics and color always give guys great alternatives, whether they’re out on the golf course or going out to dinner,” says owner Tom Torino. “I believe business is bouncing back for everyone now that the election is finally over. No matter who they voted for, men now see that things are going to be okay, economically at least, so they’re willing to let go a little financially.” ●

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2017 MR

STEVEN VISNEAU FOR STAG

{ SPORTSWEAR }

DRESS CASUAL

Changing customer behaviors and influences from the ‘90s are moving sportswear in a more active direction. BY STEPHEN GARNER

t’s no surprise to anyone in the retail and fashion communities who has been paying attention to consumer behavior and their changing demands that the casualization of America is a real thing. Blame it on the millennials if you wish, but Americans of all ages are opting for more items that are casual, comfortable, and multifunctional. Indeed, from specialty items that can take wearers from the beach to happy hour all the way up the clothing totem pole to business attire, consumers are looking for more ways to optimize their wardrobes for their busy lives. Unsurprisingly, designers from every level have paid attention to this notion. Even traditionally buttoned-up collections like Ferragamo, Zegna, and Berluti have relaxed their lines to reflect this change. And when spring arrives, one will see a true resurgence in the importance of the sportswear category, as well as how much it’s changed in recent years.

HOW HAS SPORTSWEAR EVOLVED? “One of the largest ways men’s sportswear has evolved is the inclusion of stretch and flex fits. We’re seeing the fusion of activewear

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with everyday classics that can go from the gym to office to dinner,” says Michael Fisher, menswear creative director at trend forecasting agency Fashion Snoops. “Men want styles that are appropriate for year-round wear and have an element of added value such as convertible silhouettes, softer construction and fabric innovation.” While what Fisher is saying is true to the category at a macro level, some of the retailers we spoke to are in agreement that the 1990s are to blame for some of that change. “On the product side, we’re definitely seeing more influence from the ‘90s impacting the color, pattern and shape of goods,” mentions Steve Shuck, co-owner of Austin-based specialty store Stag. “The athletic trend is part of that. We’ve also seen a bit less risk in new makers entering the market. Many of them are designing a line of goods that is territory already well covered by a lot of great competitors. What we really need from these new players is a lot more variety and fresh ideas.” Wayne Gross, fashion director of East Dane, agrees with Shuck: “I feel that the more voluminous, relaxed silhouettes that we have been seeing for the last year or so will prevail for the next few seasons, as will the urban sportswear trend.”

www.robertgraham.us

{ SPORTSWEAR } Reece Crisp, menswear buying manager for online retailer Farfetch, believes that sports has played a major role in the category’s evolution. “Adidas track pants worn with a $1,200 Balenciaga double-breasted blazer is the norm, and this is something that is going to continue,” he says. “As the trend has become more casual, the sports giants seem to be having more and more of an impact on high-end design.”

WHAT’S TRENDING?

WHAT DO CONSUMERS WANT? As for what consumers are seeking, the key word is comfort. “Anything with stretch in it is selling really well,” says Fisher. “It took years to convince men that a little added flexibility works for everyone, from guys who are super fit to guys who need a little extra give. Casual bottoms and woven shirts with a flex fit are experiencing really good sell-throughs. Also, ‘90s-inspired retro styles, especially ones with oversized logos, are doing really well with the young men’s market. If it’s sporty, it’s selling.” “We have introduced brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo, Bally, Lemaire and Rick Owens DKSHDW, which have all been very well received by our customers,” notes East Dane’s Gross. “We are seeing a lot of success in novelty sweaters and denim, especially anything referencing ‘90s streetwear.” In a different vein, new and emerging brands are picking up momentum in Farfetch’s sales. “Brands such as Gosha Rubchinskiy, Fear of God and Palm Angels have really given the market something to think about,” adds Crisp. “These relatively new brands are building a following that the luxury brands are struggling to compete with. As a result, growth in the contemporary market has been faster than ever.” ●

STEVEN VISNEAU FOR STAG

So what exactly should buyers and retailers be looking for as we move through the spring 2018 buying season? “For spring ‘18, we’re seeing two main sides of menswear where most buyers should put their open-to-buy,” Fisher notes. “One focus is on these campground classics that celebrate everything colorful and technical. Lots of billowy nylon parkas, tailored anoraks, techno suiting, and rip-stop t-shirts — all further amplified with digital florals and all-over motifs inspired by things like weather radar. On the flip side, we are happy to see a renewed appreciation for tradition after so many seasons of athleisure (which is still important, of course). There are heirloom-inspired surfaces, band collar shirts, nubby linen sport coats, as well as an overall recognition of handeddown, hand-crafted technique when it comes to lightweight knits and sweaters.” Gross echoes many of these sentiments. “Bold graphic stripes and color blocking are inescapable,” maintains Gross. “The anorak and parka are the new must-have summer outerwear pieces. Hawaiianinspired florals and prints are everywhere, and the return of denim is expected in a major way. Interestingly, though, the beige chino pant will be the new key wardrobe piece for spring/summer ’18, but they’ll be reinterpreted and updated from your dad’s old pants.” And floral prints are not going anywhere, adds Shuck. “The success we had with short-sleeved printed floral aloha shirts this year will continue to be important for us heading into next spring,

as will the movement toward more washed-down and broken-in fabrications,” he says. “Lightweight outerwear is always an important category for us, and classic silhouettes like bombers and barracuda jackets should continue to be winners with our customers,” he continues. “Lighter, softer palettes and more tonal dressing will also be significant.” Crisp also notes that tracksuits are really important for his customers moving into spring ’18. “The trend of sportswear in its most literal sense is still very much a focus for us,” he says. “Tracksuits and the introduction of short shorts are interesting, too; for me, those are a nod to soccer shorts in the ‘80s.”

“ The success we had with short-sleeved printed floral aloha shirts this year will continue to be important for us heading into next spring, as will the movement toward more washed-down and broken-in fabrications.” —Steve Shuck, Stag

MR AUGUST 2017 | MR-Mag.com

g e t a s n e a k p e e k at t h e

latest fashion collections for wholesale visit shopthefloor.com >

{ EUROPEAN TRENDS }

TIPS FROM AN EDITOR ABROAD

The four most prominent spring/summer 2018 trends from the European runways that belong in the U.S. BY STEPHEN GARNER

We touched on some key items for spring â&#x20AC;&#x2122;18 in our last issue, but here I get into the strongest trends I found during my visit to London, Florence, Milan and Paris this past June.

RE LAX ED TRO USERS Having reached peak skinny jean just a few seasons ago, we have slowly but surely seen the legs of trousers and jeans loosen up. Popular styles featured in Europe included cropped carrot-legged trousers from Sulvam and loose, but still flattering, dress trousers from Zegna. Men here are just as sure to embrace this look given the chance.

Sulvam

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Valentino

Zegna

S H O RT SH O RTS Call it an ‘80s throwback, but I couldn’t help but notice the shrinking inseams in shorts this season. I know that it’s a European thing for men to show more thigh than we do. But from swimwear to lounge shorts in every city, designers sent their models down the runway in shorts that not only keep you cool, but make a statement. After all, who wants to see your tan lines from your tired boardshorts, bro? Munsoo Kwon

Daniel W. Fletcher

Prada

FA NNY PAC K S

Liam Hodges

Louis Vuitton

I couldn’t escape this polarizing accessory — an unapologetically useful, but less than aesthetically pleasing “tourist” bag — during my visit. I keep coming back to the time I was sitting at a café in Paris around 10pm and seeing six men in their late twenties all heading out for a night on the town with fanny packs thrown across their bodies (Yes, you have to feature it across your body or under your armpit to reach peak-level coolness.) And, let’s face it, no matter your personal taste, adding these to your store will start a conversation among your customers.

Valentino

D ON ’ T B E A F R A I D O F CO LO R Spring and summer are not the seasons for dull and muted colors. Designers throughout Europe showed various shades of light blues, pinks, oranges, reds and yellows in their colllections. Encourage your customers to step out of their navy, black and grey wardrobe to embrace these wonderful hues, which will be arriving stateside next spring. Of course, they don’t need to wear a head-to-toe look of all pink; a pop of red or baby blue will definitely help them stand out from the crowd.

Band of Outsiders

Diesel

Facetasm

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2017 MR

{ FOOTWEAR }

SHOE BUSINESS

Spring 2018 is all about the casual shoe, without a pinchy brogue or tight wing-tip in sight. Espadrilles are worn with suits; the rubber-soled slide comes out of the locker room and onto the runway; and sneakers get sent on exotic vacations to soak up some culture. There are even casual hybrids like the Tod’s shoe above that don't have names yet. It has the upper of a sneaker, the jute rope trim of an espadrille and the sole of a classic Tod’s driver. “Espadriver” ? “Driverdrille”? Whataver you call it, your feet are going to have one happy spring. BY MICHAEL MACKO

S NEA K ATTACK Valentino designer Pierpaolo Piccioli showed only brightly colored sneakers with the spring collection and he wasn’t alone. While the sneaker itself is certainly nothing new, what is different are the exotic fabrications and embellishments, such as needlepoint, vintage kilim rugs and cork. What we’re seeing isn’t a ‘‘Forrest Gump’’-like running shoe paired with a suit, it is a sneaker as interesting as the clothes it is being worn with.

Right Bank Shoe Co.

Res Ipsa

Valentino

MR AUGUST 2017 | MR-Mag.com

Stubbs & Wootton

D R ILLE T EA M Ralph Lauren showed espadrilles, long regulated to lawn parties and beach dressing, with all the suitings in his ultra-luxe Purple Label Collection. Traditionally shown in lighter-colored canvas, espadrilles arrive next season in a rainbow of sophisticated shades, plus in leather and suede. Some even have added laces to make them look like a chic hybrid of slipper and sneaker.

Tom Ford

Manebi

OAS

Ralph Lauren Purple Label

SLID E SH OW The shower slide, reinvigorated in the past few years by street culture, is now a musthave shoe silhouette. We are seeing leather and suede versions as well as the traditional rubber one. Says Perry Ellis creative director Michael Maccari: "Slides can be worn with socks, as we've shown in past seasons, or simply as is. The versatility of these slides is completely modern and helps to solidify an effortless look."

Bottega Veneta

UGG

Jimmy Choo

Perry Ellis

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{ RETAIL }

STAYING CENTERED

The death of the shopping mall has been greatly exaggerated. BY TOM MASTRONARDI

A rendering of the American Dream mall

t a time when retail at every level is striving to reinvent itself, the traditional shopping mall, whether large or small, urban or suburban, is facing an even more uncertain future. According to the real estate research firm Reis, the national retail vacancy rate ticked up to 10 percent by the second quarter of 2017, which has affected the survival of many malls. Moreover, Moody’s Investors Service reports that nationally, there are now a higher number of retailers with debt ratings of Caa or lower (meaning poor standing and high credit risk) than during the rockiest months of the Great Recession. And it’s not just underfunded upstarts or legacy deadwood that have raised Moody’s eyebrows. Such household names as Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, JC Penney and Sears, all of which anchor various malls, have announced plans to shutter numerous locations in the coming months. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, say experts. If the American shopping mall is to flourish, innovators must put a plan in place to cull the worst performers and shore up the foundational business in places that can still drive demand. But even if some traditional malls may be on the brink of extinction, shopping centers will still be part of the American landscape. A recent report by global real estate agency Transwestern finds that those retail centers that exhibit the best demographics, which include per capita income and population density, will be most capable of managing the secular shift in how goods are sold and purchased in the 21st century. As Nick Hernandez, the firm’s

managing director for retail, states: “For the most part, malls are attracting new tenants through strategic marketing and property enhancements.” For example, North American Properties bought Atlantic Station in Atlanta, Georgia back in 2011, when it was struggling to hold on. Managing partner Mark Toro, a self-proclaimed re-urbanization zealot, trademarked the job title “Experience Maker” and hired a handful of employees whose entire job was to create unique retail experiences at Atlantic Station. Soon, events such as concerts, Mother’s Mornings Out, yoga classes and U.S.T.A tennis tournaments were casting a wider net, demographically speaking. In early 2016, Toro’s company sold Atlantic Station for double its investment price.

LIVING THE GOOD LIFESTYLE In 2017, however, consumers are most interested in lifestylefriendly, developments which are all carefully curated and deeply invested in “experiences” as much as “things.” Indeed, Paula Rosenblum, co-founder and retail analyst at RSR Research, says she believes future shopping centers will be driven by the demands of millennials and members of Generation Z behind them, who are more likely to spend money on entertainment rather than just clothing. “Malls are going to become more of a destination, not just for shopping but for activities and experiences,” she says. That’s the hope of the developers of the American Dream Mall,

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2017 MR

{ RETAIL } the retail, tourist and entertainment destination scheduled to open in the New Jersey Meadowlands in 2019. The three-million-squarefoot mall will not only house 450 stores, including Primark, Century 21, Saks Fifth Avenue and Lord & Taylor, but will host numerous amenities such as an indoor DreamWorks Water Park, a 16-story Big Snow Indoor Ski & Snow Park, a 1,500-seat performing arts theater, a 285-foot tall Observation Wheel, luxury movie theaters by Cinemax, a 70,000-square-foot Sea Life Aquarium & Lego Discovery Center, an NHL-sized ice rink and an 18-hole miniature golf course. In New York’s Battery Park Center, Brookfield Place caters to a wide swath of neighborhood residents, tourists, as well as the thousands of workers who are employed by such mega-companies as American Express and Bank of America. This diverse cross-section of consumers can spend their time buying (or looking at) some of

square feet of high fashion, dining and entertainment, dozens of high-end shops and the country’s first CMX movie theater. Still to come is Miami’s first Italian food hall, which will take up three floors of the project. Meanwhile, the project’s two other completed towers include two 390-unit luxury condominium residences, two class-A office buildings, and the Brickell City Centre’s flagship hotel, EAST, Miami. “Brickell City Centre is a destination in and of itself – with the hotel, cinema, and other attractions creating an environment where shoppers want to stay longer and make a day out of their visit,” said Debora Overholt, vice president of retail at Swire Properties. Another good example of the mixed-use trend is CitiCenterDC, an open-air development incorporating retail, dining, residences (both rentals and condos) and office space, located in our nation’s capital. CitiCenterDC delivers, on an impressive a 10-plus acre par-

The mixed-use CitiCenterDC mall in Washington, D.C (right) houses offices, residences, and a mall with a branch of luxury menswear retailer Paul Stuart (right and below).

the world’s most luxurious fashion brands, including Gucci, Hermes and Ermenegildo Zegna (not to mention that there are two separate Saks Fifth Avenue stores). In addition, dining options abound, from the French mega-market Le District to upscale eateries like Del Frisco’s Grille to Hudson Eats, which may be one of the country’s most sophisticated food courts. You can also lounge outdoors during the summer, skate during the winter, and listen to music or watch performances all year long. As Ron Friedman, a retail expert and partner at the accounting and advisory firm Marcum, LLP, notes: “You’re going to see a future where you’ll be living at the mall.”

MIXING IT UP Meanwhile, mixed-use developments are all the rage. Take the recently opened retail center at Brickell City Centre in Miami, Florida. The nine-acre property (which cost over $1 billion to build) features an extensive three-level, open-air retail center with half-a-million

MR AUGUST 2017 | MR-Mag.com

cel, the street-activated urban center that the city was seeking. Not surprisingly, it has been successful, with footfall reaching double – and even triple -- initial expectations. Says Timothy R. Lowery, CitiCenterDC’s general manager: “Consumers have myriad shopping choices today. There are popup shops, online, what have you, and they just want a more elevated experience at the brick-and-mortar level. We’ve created one that is repositioned to be more exciting, fun and aesthetically pleasing.” That’s one reason Bob Green, chief merchandising officer of Paul Stuart, opened the company’s two-level, 10,000-square foot shop at CitiCenterDC in the spring of 2015, making the menswear stalwart one of the earliest retail tenants in the center. “We were drawn by the multi-use concept, as well as by the clear thinking and completely modern approach that we perceived to be in place early on,” he says. “So far, we are very pleased with our decision. We have been solidly ahead of projection both in terms of sales and, significantly, in foot traffic.” Bigger isn’t always better, though. California-based menswear

{ RETAIL } brand Robert Talbott maintains several street-level storefront locations, along with shops at the open-air Fashion Island in Newport Beach, Highland Park Village in Dallas, and The Shops Buckhead in Atlanta. “Being a family-owned American brand, we want to be in locations that are quaint, with a little more character, a little less cookiecutter, and where there is a sense of community,” says John McManus, the company’s GMM. “The enclosed mall is not for us; open-air or freestanding street stores are more on brand for us, because customers today say, ‘My shopping is in my hand’, we need to offer some new experiences to bring them to brick-and-mortar.”

TRAIN YOURSELF TO SHOP HERE As with all of real estate, the idea of “location, location, location”

tage of shops featuring more than 100 fashion, beauty, lifestyle and technology brands – including Cole Haan, John Varvatos, and Turnbull & Asser -- across 365,000 square feet of retail space. In addition, the Oculus features restaurant concepts, rotating art exhibits, cultural events and entertainment.

OUTLETS ARE DEFINITELY IN On the other end of the spectrum from luxury-based retail centers is the outlet mall, where over the past five years, sales have doubled to about $50 billion, according to Green Street Advisors. Some experts say that increase shows that shoppers are looking for experiences like the bargain-hunting thrill that outlets provide, and that these consumers tend to spend more time at these malls shopping (in part, by going to more stores on each visit), and come back more

Miami’s recently-opened Brickell City Centre features an extensive three-level open-air center hosting high-fashion stores, entertainment options, residences and a hotel.

remains paramount, because daily foot traffic is still the lifeblood for any traditional mall or mixed-use space. And in some cases, it has proven simpler to bring the water to the horse. Case in point, the successful expansion of retail at airports and train stations, which have become their own form of indoor malls. At many of these transportation centers, the options have matured well beyond just the reliable bookstore, magazine/sundries outlet and shoeshine stand of yore to include branches of nationally-known retailers including Brooks Brothers, H&M, Jos. A Bank and more. Perhaps the strongest example of this shop-on-the-go trend is the Oculus, which opened in 2016 within NYC’s World Trade Center transportation hub (one of international mall developer Westfield’s portfolio of 35 malls). The Oculus creates a seamless connection between PATH trains to New Jersey, 11 subway lines and a Hudson River ferry terminal, and serves an estimated 60,000 neighborhood residents and 300,000 daily commuters. As a result, this highly targeted audience can now take advan-

frequently, since new bargains are available on an almost daily basis. That would explain why Simon Property Group’s Premium Outlet division also continues to expand, both within the U.S. and internationally, and places great emphasis on the look of its malls. “Our primary focus continues to be in our physical product to enhance our guests’ experience. Nothing is more important to us,” says CEO David Simon. In the end, Rosenblum thinks that many gloomy forecasts about the future of the American mall overstate the problem, and expects that lower-tier shopping centers in particular will bear the brunt of the blow, while more upscale retail centers will still thrive. Respected commercial realtor Joan Siegel, president of New York’s Siegel Consultants, is on the same proverbial page. She believes that malls are simply going through a necessary period of adjustment. “The publicity surrounding ‘the end of the mall’ has been overdone,” she notes. Perhaps, like Mark Twain’s passing, the death of the shopping mall really has been greatly exaggerated. ●

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2017 MR

Jacket THADDEUS O'NEIL; Bathing Suit KATAMA; Shoes BRANDBLACK; Necklace VENESSA ARIZAGA.

At the tip of Long Island; jutting out into the Atlantic is a sleeply little fishing village; filled with surfers trying to catch one final wave before the last summer sun sets; they call it the end... BY MICHAEL MACKO / PHOTOGRAPHY BY MENELIK PURYEAR

1. 1. Jewelry CARTOGRAPHY 2. FROM LEFT: Bathing Suit

SURFSIDE SUPPLY; Shirt GILDED AGE; Shoes BRANDBLACK; Necklace AHOLANYC; Bracelet RASTACLAT; Backpack PATAGONIA; Hat GENTS. Bathing Suit ORLEBAR BROWN; Shirt VELVET; Bag SWIMS; Shoes VIBRAM FIVEFINGERS. Bathing Suit PARKE & RONEN; Shoes,SWIMS; Necklace BYTHIEL; Sunglasses MIKOH. Bathing Suit ORLEBAR BROWN; Shirt, OXFORD LADS; Towel SLOWTIDE. 3. Shirt FAHERTY; Jeans CITIZENS OF HUMANITY; Belt, CAMP HERO 4. Pouch DEN & DELVE; Shoes SABAH; Sunglasses SAFARRO Ring; VENESSA ARIZAGA.

LEFT: Shirt MATIERE; Shorts GILD BY GILDED AGE; Necklace AHOLANYC; Shoes SABAH; Sunglasses SAFARRO. RIGHT: Jacket & Pants THE LOST EXPLORER; Shirt NANA JUDY; Shoes RES IPSA; Sunglasses MIKOH; Necklace BYTHIEL Pin VENESSA ARAZIGA.

LEFT: Jacket; shirt & pant FORTUNE GOODS; Shoes RES IPSA;

Necklace AHOLANYC; Turquoise bracelets & rings CARTOGRAPHY; Silver & brass bracelets & ring CARTOGRAPHY; SPEEDOMETER; #203 MIDDLE: Shirt FAHERTY; Jeans CITIZENS OF HUMANITY; Necklace BYTHIEL; Blanket JUNGMAVEN; Shoes BIRKENSTOCK. RIGHT: Shirt ADAM MAR; Shorts WILLY CHAVARRIA; Necklace SURFDOGS UK; Hat BROOKLYN HAT COMPANY; Belt CAMP HERO; Bracelet SOULMAKES; Shoes BRANDBLACK.

ON LEFT: Jacket PALMIERS DU MAL; Pants MATIERE; Shirt JACHS NY; Shoes STUBBS & WOOTTON; ON MIDDLE: Jacket pants & shirt MAX â&#x20AC;&#x2122;N CHESTER; Shoes SEEDED; Bag DEN & DELVE. ON RIGHT: Jacket & pants POST IMPERIAL; Shirt JUNGMAVEN; Scarf DEN & DELVE; Shoes STUBBS & WOOTTON; Ring VENESSA ARAZIGA.

Wetsuit Jacket BODY GLOVE; Bathing Suit PARKE & RONEN; Sunglasses MICHAEL KORS; Necklace BYTHIEL; Shoes VIBRAM FIVEFINGERS;

TOP: Jacket KRAMMER & STOUDT; Jeans CITIZENS OF HUMANITY; Belt CAMP HERO; Shoes BIRKENSTOCK. Shirt KRAMMER & STOUDT; Pants PREPPY PIMP; Shoes STUBBS & WOOTTON; Ring VENESSA ARAZIGA RIGHT: On All: Rash Guards

MICHAELâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SWIMWEAR; Clockwise from top left: Bathing Suit 2(X)IST; Sunglasses RAY BAN; Bathing Suit STRONG BOALT; Sunglasses MIKOH.

LEFT: Shirt THADDEUS O’NEIL; Bathing Suit EVEREST ISLES; Sunglasses SHWOOD. MIDDLE: Pants ROCHAMBEAU; Shirt BUGATCHI; Necklace AHOLANYC; Sunglasses MIKOH. RIGHT: Shirt POST IMPERIAL; Bathing Suit MICHAEL’S SWIMWEAR; Sunglasses RAY BAN.

Sportcoat MR. TURK; Pants ZACHARY PRELL; Shirt JUNGMAVEN; Shoes SEEDED; Watch G-SHOCK; Sunglasses MODASTEN, Lapel Pin MYTE.

PRODUCTION & STYLING: MICHAEL MACKO; PHOTOGRAPHY: MENELIK PURYEAR; GROOMING: LUIS PAYNE; MODELS: JESSE GWINN/SOUL; ALEX LABBEE/SOUL; PAUL KOEHLER/WILHELMINA & KAWAN/WILHELMINA

BACK: Bathing Suit FAHERTY; Shirt MATIERE; Shoes RES IPSA; Necklace FORTUNE GOODS; Watch G-SHOCK; COUCH LEFT: Bathing Suit THORSUN; Shirt;KATAMA X THE SURF LODGE; Shoes VANS; COUCH RIGHT: SHIRT; GITMAN VINTAGE; Shorts GILD BY GILDED AGE; Hat & Bag;PATAGONIA; Shoes BRANDBLACK FRONT: Jacket & Shorts NIKOLAJ DETOILES; Shirt GITMAN VINTAGE; Sunglasses SHWOOD; Shoes RES IPSA.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: 1. On far left: Jacket PATAGONIA; Bathing suit RON DORFF; Sunglasses RAY BAN; Shoes

HAVAIANAS; On Middle left: Shirt ROWING BLAZERS; Shorts ARGYLE GRANT; Belt CAMP HERO; Shaka Necklace AHOLANYC; Beaded necklaces; BYTHIEL; Shoes HAVAIANAS; On Middle right: Shirt SURF BAZAAR; Bathing Suit PRINCE & BOND; Bag PATAGONIA; Towel SLOWTIDE; Shoes BRANDBLACK; On Far Right: Shirt SOL ANGELES; Bathing Suit THORSUN; Bag HYPERLITE; Shoes BIRKENSTOCK 2. Shirt OLIVER HAWAII; Bathing suit JACHS NY; Shoes MICHAEL BASTIAN GRAY LABEL; Turquoise bracelet CARTOGRAPHY; Fabric bracelet RASTACLAT; Watch G-SHOCK; 3. Shirt KAHALA 4. On left: Shirt SOL ANGELES Bathing Suit RON DORFF; Sunglasses LOWERCASE; Shoes BRANDBLACK; On Right: Sweatshirt SURFSIDE SUPPLY; Bathing suit NIKBEN.

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UBMFASHION.COM | AUGUST 14ï&#x161;º16, 2017 | L AS VEGAS

How do you navigate a vast and alluring fashion landscape like MAGIC? By filtering your search and knowing exactly what to look for. With five men’s-focused shows covering everything from luxury to lifestyle brands, fast fashion to high fashion, and children’s to menswear collections, MAGIC’s men’s shows cover every price point and fashion audience. From the top in tailoring to the latest in luxury and more, see who should be on your watch list, and get ready to chart your fashion course. MAGIC Men’s shows are merchandised with today’s retailer in mind, immersing buyers in the most popular niches in men’s fashion. PROJECT influences the market with its renowned collection of contemporary apparel and footwear, while THE COLLECTIVE remains the mass-market fashion headquarters for men’s and young men’s branded and licensed apparel. If it’s unconventional designers or boutique-ready collections you’re after, take a dip at POOLTRADESHOW, fashion’s top breeding ground for art-inspired fashion and accessories. Shopping for an elevated price point? Experience the height of luxury at THE TENTS, a juried platform for elevated and contemporary men’s designers. And when you’re ready to take a step back from apparel, FN PLATFORM, the global showcase for branded footwear, presents an incomparable array of men’s shoes from athletic to formal. August 14-16, 2017 | Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday Mandalay Bay & Las Vegas Convention Centers, Las Vegas

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PE360 Project X Paris Reyn Spooner Sock it to Me Spears Hinkle STANTT Stitch’s Jeans Suit+Tie The Levy Group Tommy Jeans Tortoise Denim Wild & Wolf + more!

NOTEWORTHY BRANDS: 2(x)ist Alternative Bed Stu Blank NYC Bugatchi Calvin Klein Civil Society Daniel Hechter Paris Daniel Wellington Fossil Group French Connection Frye Goorin Bros. Happy Socks Hudson Jeans Ike Behar J&M Est. 1850 JACHS NY Mission Mercantile

Nifty Genius OAS Paisley & Gray Peerless Clothing Sol Angeles Stetson Outdoor Hats Stitch Note Strongbody Apparel Tailor Vintage Tallia Orange Tee Ink The Park Showroom Tommy Bahama Velvet by Graham & Spencer Vestige Brand Vineyard Vines + more!

PE360

STRONGBODY APPAREL

UBMFASHION.COM | AUGUST 1416, 2017 | L AS VEGAS

PROJECT |

FRENCH CONNECTION

NIFTY GENIUS

BUBBA BAGS

PAISLEY & GRAY

DE PIED FERME

MISSION MERCANTILE

L AS VEGAS | AUGUST 14ï&#x161;º16, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

| THE COLLECTIVE

BIOWORLD

BURNSIDE

WESTSIDE ACCESSORIES

LCR MENSWEAR

HANG TEN HEADWEAR

THE COLLECTIVE showcases everything from classic collections to lifestyle-driven and licensed apparel for men and young men. As a uniﬁed men’s fashion platform, THE COLLECTIVE gives buyers unparalleled access to the rapidly growing men’s and young men’s market.

UBMFASHION.COM | AUGUST 1416, 2017 | L AS VEGAS

THE COLLECTIVE |

ROYAL BLUE

ROCAWEAR

NEW BRANDS: 247 Inc. Aimee Lynn Angela & William Aung Crown Caps & Hats Averse Buffalo Desen Enterprise E-Flag Ed Hardy Epoch Hat GBTX Glide Apparel Icedout Independent Leaders Joseph David Korbata

LCR Menswear Lee Cooper Life Fitness LocoMödiv Lowe Roy and Sons Masutto Mega Cap, Inc. Mizumi Collezioni O.P. Oakbay Royal Shoes USA Seattle Sport Co. Tahari Zhangfanglian Knitwear Co. Ltd. + more!

DISTORTION

NOTEWORTHY BRANDS: Aquarius Aurelio Garcia Beautiful Giant Bella + Canvas David Alexander Distortion ECKO Unltd. Fennix Italy Fifth Sun Giorgio Cosani Hang Ten Headwear Jimmy Sales Karma Blu Klotho Marenzio Group Ocean Current

Odd Sox One Resolution Pony Radii Footwear Rocawear Rothco Spazio Sportailor Stacy Adams Stacy Adams Headwear Steven Land Steven Land Neckwear The Suit Co. Westside Accessories + more!

KORBATA

L AS VEGAS | AUGUST 1416, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

| FNPLATFORM

CARLOS BY CARLOS SANTANA

LACOSTE

EASTLAND

BRANDS: Global leaders in footwear convene at FN PLATFORM to shape the industry, network and shop for shoes. This international showcase is the pillar of branded footwear featuring men’s, women’s, juniors’ and children’s footwear brands from more than 20 countries. Offering 6 merchandised environments from luxury to lifestyle, FN PLATFORM provides buyers with a convenient and efﬁcient way to shop the most comprehensive selection of international footwear.

ANATOMIC + CO.

UBMFASHION.COM | AUGUST 1416, 2017 | L AS VEGAS

Anatomic + Co. Aquatalia Bugatchi Camper Carlos by Carlos Santana Clarks Originals Cole Haan Conhpol Creative Recreation Eastland G.H. Bass Johnston + Murphy Lacoste Mezlan Oggi

Palladium Ralph Lauren Roan Sperry Steve Madden Supply Lab Swims Ted Baker Teva The Nou Project Toscana Trask Ugo Vasare + more!

P O O LT R A D E S H O W |

CHIEF MADE

THREAD WALLETS

GOOD LUCK SOCK

BRANDS:

LETTERCRAFT

POOLTRADESHOW has been the top breeding ground for emerging fashion brands seeking retail customers for 16 years. Taking place twice a year at MAGIC Las Vegas, it’s where buyers scout fresh new items made speciﬁcally for the boutique market. This juried, carefully merchandised show features everything from unique men’s and women’s apparel and accessories, to lifestyle, apothecary, home goods and stationery.

Blue Planet Eyewear Cali Good Life Chief Made Choke Shirt Co. Curbside Department of Brewology Good Luck Sock Goodie Two Sleeves Headline Shirts In God We Must Jackson and Hyde LetterCraft Local Boogeyman

Made in Mayhem MNKR Oooh Yeah Socks! OppoSuits Polly & Crackers Public Art Apparel Scratch Tracks The Sneerwell Thread Wallets Tote + Able We Are All Smith Woolly + more!

L AS VEGAS | AUGUST 1416, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

| EVENTS

PANELS & SEMINARS After a successful launch at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in February, the MAGIC Seminar Series is back to bring you the most accomplished and successful thought leaders in fashion. This season, you can expect to learn about the power of licensing, re-imagining retail, social media growth and much more.

THE EDIT Stay one step ahead of the market with the latest trends pulled directly from the brands on our show ﬂoor. Get the head-to-toe perspective of what’s on trend and who’s doing it best.

While MAGIC means business, we also know how to have a great time and have become experts at doing just that in Las Vegas. MAGIC provides our attendees with exclusive opportunities that range from the biggest parties and concerts, to the most thought-provoking seminars, to eye-popping presentations and installations, and much more. For full details and schedules, visit ubmfashion.com.

UBMFASHION.COM | AUGUST 1416, 2017 | L AS VEGAS

MAGIC has you covered – let us be the party planner of your August show experience. This season, we have a list of parties you must hit to get out, unwind and network away. Start your Monday off at FN PLATFORM’s Opening Night Concert featuring World Class Rockers from Journey, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Santana, Boston, and Steppenwolf. Then head over to MARQUEE for the party of the season – The Ofﬁcial PROJECT Party. And because you obviously didn’t get enough on Monday, join the POOLTRADESHOW community at Foundation Room on Tuesday night for cocktails by Belvedere and the best view of the Vegas Strip which is sure to be a conversation starter.

P1VOT

LIVE MODEL PRESENTATIONS

P1V0T brings you fashion tech-based innovators and disruptors that are the masters of solutions in design, product development, merchandising, and selling. Find P1V0T on the PROJECT ﬂoor and ﬁnd out how these companies can help propel the industry and your business forward.

Get a live and in-person look at a curated selection of collections showing at PROJECT this season. Produced and styled by industry veterans, our fashion presentations will take place at various times at the main entrance of PROJECT.

L AS VEGAS | AUGUST 1416, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

Since 2011, PROJECT and Marcus Troy have been providing brands and digital editors with a unique opportunity to meet and engage, to shoot and share content, to create and explore, to build new relationships. The Blogger PROJECT provided a platform for the growth of the bloggers, while supporting our brands with a special opportunity to cultivate one on one relationships with the most prominent digital inďŹ&#x201A;uencers in the industry. Visit the #BloggerPROJECT lounge and engage with our digital editors as they style looks and create content featuring brands from PROJECT and THE TENTS. Jump in the studio yourself as well to get snapped by the one and only Naskademini.

UBMFASHION.COM | AUGUST 14ď&#x161;ş16, 2017 | L AS VEGAS

MARCUS TROY

marcustroy.com @marcustroy

BLOGGER PROJECT |

DON’T MISS THESE BLOGGERS IN VEGAS:

DENNY 623

dennybalmaceda.com @denny623

NASKADEMINI

naskademini.com @naskademini

TREND STYLED

trendstyled.com @saulrasco

EVERYDAY DREW

everydaydrew.com @everydaydrew

NORTH OF MAN

northofman.com @eilsoul01

TRINDYS

trindyslive.com @trindys

FRANCIS KENNETH

Franciskenneth.com @franciskenneth

NOVELTY REPORT

noveltyreport.com @xxjmitch

WE ARE NOMADS

weare-nomads.com @wearenomads_

L AS VEGAS | AUGUST 1416, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

UBMFASHION.COM | AUGUST 14ï&#x161;º16, 2017 | L AS VEGAS

SAVE THE DATES! Luxury to Lifestyle Branded Footwear for Men, Women, Juniors, and Children

A U G 14  16 , 2 017 LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER, SOUTH HALL

Fast Fashion Footwear for Men, Women, Juniors, and Children

A U G 14  16 , 2 017 LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER, SOUTH HALL

Footwear for Women and Juniors

S E P T 17 1 9 , 2 017 JACOB JAVITS CENTER, NEW YORK CITY

Luxury Footwear for Women

S E P T 17 1 9 , 2 017 JACOB JAVITS CENTER, NEW YORK CITY

VISIT UBMFASHION.COM

BY MICHAEL MACKO

HOW___________WORK CARL CUNOW; NATHAN RAMANO

Carl Cunow and Nathan Romano founded Onia, which is the Hebrew word for “ship,” in 2009, a year when many people were re-inventing themselves. Cunow had been working with retail icon Steven Alan, while Romano was part of his family's manufacturing business in Asia. They decided to pool their talents and take a risk. Luckily, the gamble paid off, as I learned when I recently spent the morning with them to see how they work.

THE BRAND Don’t call Onia a swim brand! In 2009 it was, just men’s; then in 2013 came men’s sportswear; and then in 2015, women’s wear was added to the line. Now they consider themselves a “lifestyle resortwear brand"

THE PRINTS One of the coolest elements of the new offices is an art studio for their designers. About 70 percent of the brand’s prints are original and begin as paintings as seen here. The new studio allows them to create freely in a sundrenched, decked out art studio.

MR AUGUST 2017 | MR-Mag.com

THE COLLABORATIONS Onia has a long history of working on design collaborations; for years, they’ve worked with Liberty Art Fabrics on their signature prints. For Resort 2018, they tapped NYC-based graphic artist, Nikki Martinkovic, to create this signature print, which is actually the Onia logo done in graffiti style. PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

THE OFFICES We photographed Cunow and Romano in their spectacular new offices the week before they officially moved in. The 9,000-square-foot digs occupy the entire 37th floor in a midtown office building, and boasts 360-degree views of Bryant Park, The Freedom Tower and The Empire State Building.

THE MONTROSE Part of their sportswear expansion, the Montrose is one of the brand’s most popular items, with some retailers on a weekly autoreplenishment because they sell out so quickly. The shoe has the lightweight rubber sole of a flip-flop with the upper of an espadrille in a lightweight, water resistant swim fabric. They even have eyelets to drain any extra water that might accumulate. Shoes are the brand’s third biggest category in mens after swim and t-shirts.

The new CONFORMITY boxer brief. Enhanced with COOL-MOTION performance technology for the ultimate in style, fit and comfort.

it’s what’s underneath that counts ISACO International 212.629.0111 | PERRYELLIS.COM

MR AU GU ST 20 1 7

LAS VEGAS ISSUE

A UBM PUBLICATION

Vol. 28 No 4