n.117 NOVEMBER
2021
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editorialis
New challenges for the year 2022
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riting an editorial article to talk about the coming new year is always complicated. We could write and wish all the best and best wishes in the world, as usual in these circumstances. As well as telling that the old year is finally gone, and that now we can start again in the best way that would be possible. But these are words destined to remain on a sheet of paper, while the new year inevitably arrives, only to realize in the end that there isn’t anything new. We shall discover that it is not since January 1st that we can or could have “changed our lives”, but changing is a companion that accompanies us every day of the year; that the moment of the restart can take place at any hour of any day and you don’t have to wait for New Year’s Eve to remember, note down and wish each other good intentions. Every moment is good for the restart, even now, while you are reading this article. But along with this certainty there is another one: there are no shortcuts to get back on track to tackle the rise that the catering world has before it.
A recovery that represents an undertaking, that is, a difficult challenge in which nothing is given for granted. A recovery where there are no shortcuts, the discontinuity that the pandemic crisis has caused places pizza chefs and restaurateurs in front of new scenarios where we will be in front of more aware consumer, increasingly accustomed to the use of technology also to choose what and where to eat a good pizza. Other changed scenarios are the new trends for the use of the service, the delivery (exploded during the pandemic) is still destined to grow, as well as particular attention must be paid to the offer, the new trends say that the menus must be simple clear and of top-quality ingredients. For all these innovations, the recovery that next year promises will be a challenge, certainly difficult but not impossible, that now or never the time has come to grasp. So, in addition to our classic Happy New Year, we would wish you good luck for this new challenge. Giuseppe Rotolo 3
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chefs for Made in Italy
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he main objective of the project presented in Milan during the HOST fair is that of telling the ability with which Italian Chefs transform top-quality products which are expression of the regional traditions, into dishes that become a real experience of Made in Italy agri-food both at home and abroad. The initiative is promoted by ICE - Agency for the promotion internationalization of Italian companies aborad and by FipeConfcommercio. Testimonials of the project are five of the best Italian Chefs: Massimiliano Alajmo, Silvia Baracchi, Herbert Hintner, Claudio Sadler and Giuseppe Santoro. They will be the protagonists of promotional events in France, the United States, Germany, Russia and England. They will
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participate in trade fairs, shooting video pills that will be promoted during the week of Italian cuisine in the world. All this to show the audience how, by attending certified restaurants, it is possible to enjoy a 100% Italian gastronomic experience even abroad. After all, Italian restaurants, ambassadors of our lifestyle in the world, are an extraordinary vehicle for knowledge and promotion of our excellence, an added value for two fundamental supply chains for the Italian economy, tourism and agrofood. A process of valorization of Made in Italy that is extremely meaningful, especially considering the risks generated by Italian sounding which puts the reputation of certified venues at risk, with all sorts
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edited by Antonella Leoci
of counterfeits. To confirm this the data. As many as 94% of certified Italian restaurateurs abroad found themselves in front of counterfeit products, 60% found fake Italian restaurants, while 89% noticed recipes that were not appropriate but passed off as originals. 43%, albeit without certainty, had serious doubts about the origin of the used products. Obviously, the opposite trend if we consider what certified Italian restaurateurs do themselves. All, 99% of them, always check the origin of the products used, and 62% contact the manufacturer directly. «Italian catering has always been a flagship of our country’s agri-food offer, even abroad. - declares Lino Enrico Stoppani, President of FipeConfcommercio - Its role as a showcase is absolutely essential for the promotion of our lifestyle and the excellent products that make possible to create dishes that the world envies us. The project set up with ICE aims to promote all this. Through a series of initiatives in Italy and abroad that will feature some of the best chefs. Protecting Made in Italy and promoting the catering sector, as an essential component for relaunching the tourism sector, is necessary. Especially in a particular moment like the one we are experien-
cing, in the midst of a difficult recovery after the crisis generated by the pandemic». The network of Italian restaurants in the world has 2,218 certified restaurants in 60 foreign countries, in 451 different cities, for a total of 250,875 seats per meal. As regards the continental division, we see about 33% concentrated in EU countries, 23.3% between Asia and Oceania, almost 30% in North America, about 13% in Latin America and the remaining 10% between Africa, Middle East and non-EU Europe. It is interesting to note that these places are able to cover the regional gastronomic offer in its entirety and that 77% do not just offer a restaurant service but also the sale of typical products. Many restaurateurs try to keep up to date: almost all, 92%, return to Italy at least once a year, and many of them take the opportunity to visit Italian restaurants and bars, respectively in 75% and 68% of cases. . «This initiative and many others that we have planned in the coming months, - says Roberto Luongo, Director General of the ICE Agency - are part of our effort to support Italian agri-food exports which, despite the pandemic crisis, has registered a growth of 10.42% in the first half of 2021 compared to the same period of 2020».
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mondoHO.RE.CA
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Beer is female!
eer is female, not only because of its feminine name, but also because there is much affinity between the malty drink and the female universe, as well as there are many affinities with the symbolic dish of our country: pizza. The women’s world appreciating the “nectar of the gods” as beer was called in ancient times, are on the rise, according to a survey by AssoBirra and AstraRicerche, it certifies that 70% of Italian women consume beer and 30% of them do so at least twice a week. Furthermore, in the last five years, four out of 10 women report
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having increased their consumption of beer. The motivation lies in the taste, which for 58% of the sample represents the main reason for preferring this drink. The bond between beer and woman was also the protagonist in the long months of the pandemic, we can also define it as a consoling drink. According to a study conducted by the Friedrich-Alexander University of Erlangen-Nuremberg and published in Scientific Reports, hordenine, a substance found in malted barley, would have benefits on mood. In other words, drinking beer would make you happy. Even if during
the lockdown the ways of consumption changed, because the restrictions limited social life, people did not want to give up on beer, as evidenced by the research conducted by BVA Doxa for AssoBirra, in which it emerges that the number of Italians who bought beer online grew 19%. And as a woman, beer is extremely versatile. Able to create sharing and propose itself for different consumption occasions with many possibilities of pairing with food. The “favorite beer” of Italian women, however, has markedly different characteristics from those of men: 55% prefer it with a light flavor (compared to 38% of men), 80% enjoy it only slightly alcoholic and - surprisingly - a lot sparkling (versus 39% of men). A Doxa research for Birra Messina, found that for women beer must gratify the palate (59%), it must have an intense and decisive taste (44%) without any compromise in terms of lightness and drinkability (43%), they love a low alcohol content (26%) while 30% of the sample looks for thirst-quenching properties in the malted drink. For 24% of women the “fruity notes” count a lot, for 16% the “persistence of the foam”, for 15% the “sparklingness” and for 10% the “bitter taste”. The research also highlights an unprecedented openness to novelty and to beers characterized by the presence of particular ingredients. In fact, the “original recipes” would most intrigue women (even 95% of the sample). Finally, Italian women would be looking for more and more detailed information on beer: 51% of the interviewees would like to know more in the future and as many as 30% would like to know much more. More and more beer lovers in skirts, but also more and more women engaged in making beer: female-run companies in the sector, according to UnionCamere data, now represent 10.8% of the entire beer sector. A figure destined to grow. Pizza & core suggests the combinations to offer to customers, a drinkable lager is perfect to combine with pizzas with velvety flavors, while for those who love an intense and rich taste we offer a blanche together with a pizza with intense flavors and Mediterranean aromas.
Beer is also a female legend
According to a legend, beer was born thanks to the mistake of a woman, who forgot a plate of cereal outside her home. Let’s imagine that the fact happened once upon in the history, about 6-7000 years ago in the zone of the fertile land bathed by the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, an area of the world now known as Iran. What happened? Legend tells that there was a storm, the dish with the cereals inside fell into a jar full of water, where they remained to soak for some time and while fermenting they flavored that water. It was the first beer. A fortuitous case resulting from the mess of a woman who unwittingly gave birth to an ante-litteram fermentation. Since that fateful and very lucky mistake, beer has always remained strongly linked to women, who can undoubtedly be considered the first true brewers in history. Since then, in the primitive brewing civilizations, the choice and care of the ingredients, as well as the preparation of what can be considered the first form of beer, was in fact the prerogative of women and took place within the home.
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Bakery gourmet a cura di Nico Carlucci
by Nico Carlucci
Ca-RiVe 78 by Nico Carlucci
CAnapa flour and RIso VEnere flour for an extraordinary pizza in the pan
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emp flour contains all 8 essential amino acids, including methionine and cysteine which are normally poorly represented in other plant-based proteins. 65% of hemp protein is represented by edestin, a protein that is easily digested, while gliadin and glutenin, or gluten, are completely absent. For this reason, hemp flour is suitable for people with celiac disease and is also useful for strengthening the immune, nervous and hormonal systems. The fibers are very abundant and make it an ideal food for the fight or prevention of constipation. The mineral salts present in a significant way are: potassium, magnesium, iron
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and zinc, while as regards vitamins, tocopherols (vitamin E) are mainly present. Hemp seed flour is a food rich in omega 3 and omega 6, fatty acids important for our body for their antioxidant properties, also useful for the prevention of cardiovascular disorders. Venere rice flour is an excellent alternative to white flour and boasts a high fiber content. This flour gives foods the aroma of Venere rice, an aromatic, fragrant rice with a hint of freshly baked bread and sandalwood. The flour has a grayish color as the pericarp (the outermost film) of the Venus rice grains is black, while the inside of the grain is white.
Bakery chef
Procedure The ingredients can make the difference but even the simple pizza in a pan with coarse salt, extra virgin olive oil and rosemary is fabulous to fully enjoy the fragrances of the flours used.
Ingredients - 800 gr of flour of 360W strength - 100 gr of hemp flour - 100 gr of Venere rice flour - 10 gr of malt powder (1% of the weight of the total flours) - 6 gr of compressed fresh brewer’s yeast (0,6% of the weight of the total flours) - 750 gr of water (very cold but which allows to have a final dough with an optimal temperature around 25/26 degrees) (75% of the weight of the total flours) - 30 gr of extra virgin olive oil (3% of the weight of the total flours) - 25 grams of Himalayan pink salt (2.5% of the weight of the total flours) - Corn flour craved for handling and processing - Filling: Fine tomato pulp, julienned mozzarella, capocollo, black olives, rocket, stracciatella, fresh sprouts, capers, yellow tomatoes, balsamic vinegar and edible flowers.
Prepare the dough in a planetary mixer with a hook by inserting the flour, malt, yeast and oxygenating the powders for about 2 minutes at low speed. Then add cold water in small doses up to 650 g. As soon as the dough has absorbed all the water, add the oil in small doses until completely absorbed. This procedure should take about 10 minutes in 1st speed or at moderate speed. Continue adding the salt and the last 100 g. of water, activating the 2nd speed for about 5 minutes. If the dough is made by hand, follow the same procedure for adding the ingredients but kneading in a fairly large bowl. When the dough is smooth and homogeneous, place the mixture obtained in a previously oiled tub (the weight of the dough should be around 1.890 kg at a temperature of about 26 °) and proceed with pointing for about 45 minutes at room temperature . Then place in the fridge at a controlled and constant temperature of 4 ° C for about 12 hours. Take out of the fridge and let point to room temperature for about 30 minutes. Cut into rectangular shapes of variable size and weight (600 gr.) And place in a previously oiled pan to proceed with fermentation in the cell at 32 ° C with 78% humidity to obtain a regular cell for about 3 hours not covered or at temperature environment covered with a non-contact plastic sheet until doubling the initial volume. Handling with care so as not to lose the leavening acquired, crush the dough with the fingertips forming “cells” and spread the tomato pulp and then stuff it later. If you do not have a static professional oven with a stone plate, you can use a home oven with refractory stone. Cook at 250 ° C directly on stone for about 10-12 minutes with steam and closed valve until golden in color; cooking times vary according to the type of oven used, the manufacturer and especially the size, so even if only slightly, the times are indicative (in a pre-heated home oven we can even cook for 20 minutes). Stuff and put back in the oven for another 3 minutes to melt the mozzarella and make the chosen ingredients uniform or stuff “cold” with ingredients that must not be cooked. You can keep the pizzas in the shovel for 1 day in the refrigerator in an airtight container and heat when needed or as soon as they are cooked, chill directly or freeze in the freezer while still hot (don’t stuffed).
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Ricettando con
by Giuseppe Laudato
Oro di Napoli Ingredients - Tomato sauce “I datterini gialli in succo” by Cirio Alta Cucina - DOP buffalo mozzarella from Campania - Black pepper - Salami Napoli type - Extra virgin olive oil - Basil
Procedure Stretch out 280 gr of dough. Arrange the tomatoes “I datterini gialli” on the disk, add about 100 grams of buffalo mozzarella and the Napoli salami cut into strips. Bake in a wood oven at a temperature of about 400 ° C. In exit, complete with a sprinkling of black pepper, fresh basil, some pieces of mozzarella and drops of extra virgin olive oil. Enjoy your pizza.
We are in Marano di Napoli near the Rotonda Maradona. It is precisely here that we find the Pizzeria 280 Grammi, born in 2017 as a family-run business, here you can taste the real Neapolitan pizza and the specialties of Neapolitan street food. The owner is Giuseppe Laudato who suggests the recipe for a delicious pizza: “Oro di Napoli”, made with juice of “I Datterini Gialli” by Cirio Alta Cucina Juice”. Pizzeria 280 Grammi - Via Campana,1 G/H - 80016 Marano di Napoli (Na) - Tel. 081.5765076
Harvested perfectly ripe and carefully processed within a few hours, I datterini gialli by Cirio Alta Cucina are available in 2 flavor variants. I DATTERINI GIALLI INTERI AL NATURALE With a bright yellow color, they have a creamy pulp with extreme sweetness, they are excellent for quick preparations based on fish and seafood, and for filling invitinglooking pizzas.
I DATTERINI GIALLI INTERI IN SUCCO Immersed in yellow datterino juice for an even more enveloping and decisive taste, with their natural sweetness they enhance any fish-based preparation, perfect on pizza. www.cirioaltacucina.it
L’inserto dedicato al mOndo della pasticceria, gelateria e caffetteria
e t o n t e e w s a n o e d u l c n To co
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Pandolce the mix for big and small Leavened products
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andolce is a powdered mix made from selected, carefully balanced raw materials that simplifies and reduces the steps required in the preparation of large, festive leavened items such as Panettone, Pandoro and Colomba. Pandolce Mix is also suitable for making classic leavened baked products, guaranteeing consistent results, excellent volume and longlasting freshness and softness. This 100% complete mix contains natural yeast, does not require the addition of flour and is flavourless, which allows the customisation of the finished cake with complementary products from the
PreGel Pastry line. The versatility of Pandolce Mix makes it ideal for preparing various breakfast leavened products, such as croissants and brioche, but it can also be used to make traditional regional cakes such as Pandolce Ligure, Torta di Rose, Veneziana or Fugassa Veneta. Chef’s tip: try it in combination with the new product Mandorlita Glassa Mix which allows to make the classic crunchy almond-flavoured coating suitable for covering Panettone and Colomba cakes by simply adding water to the mix. A quick and easy way to get a perfect glaze every time. pregel.com
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Aesthetics on the table P
recious fabrics or perfect cooking tools that also stand out in the open kitchens and re-newed mise en place: everything to satisfy the wishes of a customer. Hospitality becomes beautiful in order to return to welcome a customer who has been away for too long, but who couldn’t wait to return to being welcomed and pampered. Thus, the mise en place is renewed with solutions of great style and design. The aesthetics of the dish, however, remains the essential aspect of modern gastronomy that relates different sensorial spheres: what is beautiful to see can seem better when you taste it. The art of decorating and presenting the dish offers a wide range of possibilities with creativity and style, by following some basic principles, in the choice of shapes and use of colors. The use of dishes with different shapes becomes functional to the presentation of food and the enhancement of ingredients. The traditional round dishes remain. A square plate, for example, offers the possibility of using the four corners to place four different versions of the same ingredient, leaving a
common sauce in the middle, or, following the diagonals, to trace brushstrokes of chromatically contrasting or balancing garnishes with the main ingredient. A rectangular or oval plate can become a perfect base for selections of ingredients that must be consumed in a precise order or it can host foods that usually have a trilogy of preparations as their preparations foresee. The infinite variety of chromatic games enhances the hedonistic potential of a dish. Colors are real vehicles of messages that can influence the imagination of food and the desire to eat it. When presenting the dish, it is therefore very important to know the meaning attributed to the various colors, to combine them and enhance them at best. The aesthetics of the dish, the art of decoration and presentation are the result of care, creativity and research of the chefs who, interpreting and revisiting genuine and true ingredients, prepare guests in a positive and captivating way for tasting. By turning desires into surprising and unforgettable experiences, every sense is generously satisfied with wisdom and skill.
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