n.114
JULY
2021
Follow us on
editorialis
Two important “S” for the restart
S
ustainability and safety are the drivers that will guide the restoration of catering after Covid pandemic. In fact, respect for the environment is at the moment the central point of company development policies and it will also be for those involved in catering: sustainable production, reduction of waste, enhancement of territories, the future passes from here: it deals with a future, that we tell you in the opening article of this issue of Pizza & core International. Restaurant owners and managers with their own vegetable garden from which to harvest the best, healthiest and most genuine to give to their customers. Exclusive dishes that have something unique and precious that offer great satisfaction to customers. The other meaningful capital S is safety: after what happened with the pandemic, the owners of restaurants and pizzerias will look for those places that guarantee maximum com-
pliance with the rules. A recent survey found that this issue is at the heart of at least 80 customers: correctness, distancing, sanitization, compliance with the rules, after Covid it will be as previously said. As far as safety is concerned, this will certainly be the case. Sustainability and safety then, two elements that can go very well and that find a perfect synthesis in food and wine tourism. In fact, we are talking about sustainable tourism, which can help the development of internal territories, create an excellent connection between the rural and urban areas, can help preserve recipes, as well as products. A system that helps small and medium-sized companies, a healthy system exactly what we all want after the terrible months of the pandemic. We wish you good life and good all! Giuseppe Rotolo
3
HO.RE.CAworld
Chef or
contadino?
C
hef and farmer. This is the emerging professional figure who is an expression of the new agriculture and gastronomy. After all, “peasant chefs” or “farmer chefs”, as they like to define themselves, play a double role: on the one hand they are farmers and on the other hand promoters of the same products they cook in their farmhouses. Agrichef is expression and flagship of a new sector, the farmhouse tourism sector, which now has got about 25.000 facilities in Italy, that are able to offer a potential of more than 253,000 beds and over 441,000 seats. But the presence of “Agrichefs” is also important in farmers’ markets that have transformed over time from places of commerce to moments of aggregation, leisure, socialization and training with the carrying out of various activities, such as cooking shows, tutorials for shopping, workshops, demos and so
4
on. They are also prepared to welcome school classes and are organized for children didactic. In just a few years, a unique international network in terms of size and characteristics was born and grown in Italy. Now it extends its presence from farms to markets, from restaurants to street food, from farmhouses to urban gardens. There are almost one thousand farmer chefs in all Italian regions. They have attended courses and received the certificate with the inclusion in the national register of “Agrichefs” of Campagna Amica. Coldiretti organizes the days of peasant cuisine in the context of the National Assembly of Terranostra, the Agritourism Association of Campagna Amica with initiatives throughout Italy, on traditional peasant menus. The agrichef is a peasant chef who works in farmhouses and in the kitchen uses the products he himself grows in his company where hospitality
HO.RE.CAworld
becomes a fundamental moment for the promotion of the territory and good food, paying the utmost attention to the enhancement of the products and the promotion and diffusion of local and traditional recipes. Three fundamental concepts revolve around the peasant chef: quality, traceability and distinctiveness with the offer of zero-kilometer dishes and the guarantee of transparency and sustainability. Among the well-known names in Italy and abroad, Pietro Zito, who has brought his restaurant into the guide of the best taverns in Italy. The “peasant chef” has been able to consolidate a lifestyle and cooking style, which has even arrived in Japan, exporting the good of Apulia thanks to his recipes that have made and appear in the best magazines of good Italian food, on television and in national events where it happens to meet dozens of starred chefs. In Montegrosso, north of Bari, a modern agrichef has made the soil something precious by crea-
ting Antichi Sapori, a restaurant, which is also tavern and crossroads of identity emotions that are experienced at the table or in other places around. Here he welcomes his guests. “From the land to the table” is not just a message, but the idea that Peppe Zullo’s farm actually applies through traceable, transparent production processes, oriented towards a single goal: quality, the enhancement of products that combine taste, health and authenticity. There is another Apulian chef who lives in Orsara and has climbed the top of Italian catering to the sound of spontaneous herbs often collected together with his guests, cooked, and brought to the table. The restaurant is located between a vineyard, a large vegetable garden, a garden and a wood, from which practically every ingredient of Peppe Zullo’s menus comes. Carlo Petrini, founder Slow Food, defined as a “cook-farmer who was able to return to his land the pride it deserves ”.
5
mondoPASTRY
6
mondoPASTRY
the future is fusion
T
he Key word is: re-invent yourself! This seems to be the mantra that guides the evolution of the pastry system on formats that seem to be gradually taking shape, while remaining liquid. The pastry world meets the bakery world, but also gastronomy, tradition is reinvented in a street food version and expansion is played on pop-up experiments. There are also hybrid and multitarget formats such as food courts, markets on the London model, mixed spaces where food is combined with design, clothing, services.
Scaiola. The synergy between his training as a pastry chef and that of his brother cook, combined with the family tradition, gave shape to the idea of a space that includes everything. STREET FOOD From the poff-cakes by Chicco Pezzini to the muffins and cupcakes of the “mobile” version by California Bakery, up to the churros by Antonio Lembo who runs in Apecar, the encounter with the delights of pastry takes place in squares, parks and on the occasion
GASTROPASTRY The model is simple: expanding the offer allows you to “capture” a more varied customer group and play on cross selling. Therefore, the number of pastry shops is multiplying which, with a more or less conscious approach, draw attention to the preparations alongside the sweet offer. Who has built an ideal model is the Gastropasticceria Scaiola in Turin. «My parents have always had a gastronomy and we have seen how the new trends were linked to food. We thought it was interesting to have a place where you can enter to have breakfast up to an aperitif», explains Giacomo
7
8
mondoPASTRY
Areadocks - Brescia of special events. Perhaps the most prominent project today is Niko Romito’s Bomba, in which street food, a propensity for pop-ups and a mix of sweet and savory are intertwined. «I set myself the goal of” industrializing “the product, that is, to ensure that in the Bomba store it is fried in an express manner, but that there are no operators who make everything, from dough to frying». MULTICONCEPT This kind of “shops” were born in London and Prague, on New York avenues and in Tokyo. Cafés and restaurants “mixed” with clothing or design shops. They are not new, they have recently developed in Milan and other Italian cities. But the integration of the pastry world is a more recent frontier. An interesting project - because it plays on multiple formats and because it seems to work - is that of Areadocks in Brescia (see the image). «Areadocks is a loft divided into various sales sectors with a single synergy - explains the Director Alessandro Cestaro. - We come from the world of furniture and have imagined a showroom with some tables for catering, we have put design pieces that we are looking for all over the world and this has also made the food offer more
attractive. Little by little, the few tables for the aperitif have multiplied and catering has become important in Areadocks». Here then is the multi-concept, which sees a “modular” asset in the pastry and ice cream laboratory. The space is dedicated to traditional and international pastry and ice cream parlors, in the name of craftsmanship. A shop where you can discover the products that the team produces every day, paying attention to their seasonality. POP UP STORE The pop-up formula was conceived in order to explore the market: this is the challenge that Iginio Massari tells us, forerunner of a phenomenon that could also take hold in the pastry world. The master from Brescia has in fact started, in collaboration with Grandi Stazioni, the opening of some points designed as temporary within the nerve center of Italy’s railway hubs. “The temporary allows us to test the attention possible in a city”. PASTRY BAKERY If flour is the common denominator, sugar and yeast 9
mondoPASTRY
take different forms in gourmet pastrybakeries. Flour is also the common thread of the LuLa Pane e Dessert project, launched in Trani by the pastry chef Luca Lacalamita. «I am a pastry chef who makes bread. I therefore choose a format that could mix together these two macro-worlds”. Together with his partner, Lacalamita focused attention on the utmost craftsmanship and research in depth in his own territory. «In Apulia we were probably the first to combine a bakery, bar and pastry shop in one unique space. While remaining an artisan shop, we are multifunctional and this makes us interesting for the curious customer». DESSERT BAR The dessert bar is a format with soft edges, which expand or contract according to the interpretations. In Milan, the pastry chef Federico Rottigni chooses it as his name, proposing a “white card menu” including dishes made with pastry techniques and accompanying drinks. «I wanted to be a cook, but in the end the world of sweets has kidnapped me forever. I only follow the chemical rules of pastry». FOOD COURT Look carefully at the evolution of pastry META, the innovative food court created by two entrepreneurs under 30 - Leo Schieppati and Ludovico Leopardi - in via Bonvesin de La Riva in Milan. It is a space with five customizable kitchens, all with showcases on the street, with a common area that acts as a cafeteria. META saw the light in April in the area where Gualtiero Marchesi’s restaurant once stood.
10
«The space will be able to accommodate five major edges of Italian and international cuisine under one roof at the same time, offering diversified proposals made ad hoc, accessible to all and bookable through a dedicated app». The idea is that META can also host food projects in the form of pop-ups. «If a Sicilian or Piedmontese chef wants to stay in Milan for three months to approach a new clientele and communicate new ideas, he can position himself in one of our spaces. In reality we would like the space to be inhabited by independent formats, chefs and gastronomic innovators», they add. A monthly rent and a small percentage of turnover are therefore required to take advantage of the location and the integrated logistics and marketing service and the retail room facing the street. The concept includes an offer of “widespread pastry”, since each kitchen will have its own dessert menu and customers will be able to choose how to compose their menu by integrating the various combinations proposed.
advertorial
At HostMilano 2021 the new
C
limother Easy is the innovative technology that allows you to manage and control the leavening of leavened products for bakery, pastry, pizzeria and catering, and to bake them at any time of the day. By exploiting the natural leavening process (natural energy of fermentations) and the management of time in a climatic cycle (temperature and wetness), Climother Easy reduces waste in the production and consumption of electricity. This innovation will be presented at the HostMilano 2021 edition, from 22nd to 26th October 2021: this technology captures the energy that nature offers us and applies the parameters necessary to create the ideal climate for the management and control of room leavening, allowing a high energy saving in the fresh processes, with the possibility of being used also to improve the recovery of frozen products. Several advantages are linked to this. For example, Climother Easy allows you to manage in a simpler way the dough without waste: in fact, the professional can better manage the time available to cook the product without necessarily being an expert. Furthermore, the system allows to stabilize the leavening of products that can be baked at various times of the day, with excellent results, in terms of flavors and aromas. Finally, the recovery of frozen products is also improved, in addition to lower operating
costs and the possibility of always having fresh and ready products. The innovative Climother® process patented by Esmach, arises from Esmach's growing attention to a consumer who is increasingly looking for genuineness and simplicity in the laboratory and above all to the use of Natural Mother Yeast, much appreciated by the consumer for its digestibility, genuineness and for the unique flavor it releases into products. Esmach has therefore taken advantage of all the laboratory studies and authoritative sources with which it has numerous collaborations in the technological field, developing a cuttingedge technology based on direct observation of the product and its characteristics (life cycle, the maximum leavening curve and stabilization) trying to give a solution to different needs and requests, here is the new Climother Easy line.
advertorial
present gluten-free Born in Torre del Greco on August 3rd, 1967, he inherited the passion for cooking from his father Aniello, the first great cook who was a master of life and profession. He grew up cultivating the passion for the land and for cooking by observing the grandmothers, who every day in their “gastronomic shops” of the time prepared dishes following the seasonality and tradition. He is passionate about and plays rugby at high levels, a sport that is suitable for a boy with a strong and determined temperament, always humble, cheerful, constant, passionate and instinctive. “RUGBY AND COOKING” two different worlds but very similar in passion and determination, which have taught him firmness, discipline, loyalty, tenacity and perseverance. Historic executive chef of Rossopomodoro and creator of all the national and international menus of the brand, today Antonio Sorrentino is also national councilor of the National APCI. Always passionate about gluten free, in 2012 he inserted a menu dedicated to gluten intolerant customers in the historic location of Rossopomodoro Porta Romana Milan, offering the Schär product combined with the best products of Campania and Italy. Today the gluten free Quality by Schär pizza is present on the Rossopomodoro menu in almost all of Italy. “Happy to have made this mission possible by ensuring that anyone who has to exclude gluten from their diet must never give up the taste and flavor of a true Neapolitan Rossopomodoro”. 12
advertorial
oked provosm h it w ce ra e v Pizza pulia, spinach, A m o fr ta a rr u b , la dige PGI, raw speck from Alto A io artichoke carpacc
Basic ingredients for 6 large Neapolitan pizzas: - 1000 g Schär Pizza Mix - 900 g cold water at 4 ° C - 10 g fresh brewer’s yeast - 40 g of fine sea salt - 50 g of corn oil - Schär rice flour for the preparation Ingredients for the topping: - 500 g of smoked provola from Agerola - 300 g Speck from Alto Adige PGI - 300 g Fresh artichokes - 100 g baby spinach - 200 g Burrata from Apulia - fresh basil leaves - 60 g of extra virgin olive oil (EVO) 1st liquid pre-mixing step to be prepared the day before - 900 g cold water 4 ° C - 0.500 kg Schär Pizza Mix - 10 g fresh brewer’s yeast Preparation Mix in the mixer with a paddle in first speed for about 3 minutes. Put the dough in a bowl and cover it with transparent film; lightly pierce the film and refrigerate at 7 ° / 8 ° C for 12 hours.
2nd dough step - All the liquid pre-mix - 0.400 kg Schär Pizza Mix - 40 g fine sea salt - 50 g of corn oil
Preparation 1st step: put all the pre-dough in a planetary mixer using the spatula, add the Schär Pizza Mix and spin quickly for 4 minutes. 2nd step: after 4 minutes add all the salt to rain. 3rd step: after 5 minutes activate the 2nd speed and slowly pour all the oil. In total, processing should not exceed 10 minutes. Turn off and let it rest for 5 minutes and transfer the dough into a container with a lid and let it rest for at least 2 hours. Divide into loaves of about 320 g, place them in a covered container lightly floured with Schär rice flour and leave to rest for 2 hours. In the meantime, cut the mozzarella into strips, slice the speck, clean and cut the artichokes into thin julienne strips and dress them with extra virgin olive oil, salt and lemon. Wash the baby spinach. Take the leavened dough quickly pass it in the Schär rice flour and spread it with your hands. Garnish with the provola cut into fillets, leaving a finger free from the cornice; season with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil Put the pizza in the oven and cook for 120 seconds. Remove from the oven and complete with the baby spinach, the julienne of artichokes, the stracciata di burrata and the speck.
13
L’inserto dedicato al mOndo della pasticceria, gelateria e caffetteria
e t o n t e e w s a n o e d u l c n To co
sweetadvertorial
present
Crema Nocciola Cacao and... CREMA NOCCIOLA CACAO PIÙ DENSA (new recipe) The new, denser hazelnut and cocoa cream, reformulated and updated by the Fugar team, enters the launch pad today. The production and commercial objectives have been fully respected. The cream, always packaged in baskets of 12 kilos (code 40304) and 6 kilos (code 41429) has the following characteristics: • more compact consistency, suitable for brioche and leavened fillings; • soft on the palate, but more consistent in terms of
16
hold, to create a combination of “melt” and “body”; • perfect for filling tarts; • suitable for cooking, without altering the purity of the ingredients, following the typical imprint of “Fugar”. The lipid part of the product was achieved with the use of a high oleic value oil (from sunflower seeds) and a fat of the highest quality profile (cocoa butter).
dedicated to pastry chef
...Crunchytella Crunchytella In the world of food, it is well known that peanut flavor matches nicely with everything, a bit like black colour in the fashion world. This legume which, due to its texture, flavor and aroma is often associated with the dried fruit family, has gained an interesting space in ice cream and pastry shops, thanks to its versatility and its wide range of flavors. At the time of roasting, for example, the peanut takes on a sweetish tone, with definite notes of chocolate, but at the same time releases a slight flavor, ending in a pleasant bitter hint. For this reason, we often see it combined with both savory and sweet culinary dishes, such as cocoa and caramel. Fugar chooses an even bolder combination: salted caramel, to enhance the sweet and savory tones naturally present in the peanut. Thus was born Crunchytella, an innovative product with a hybrid consistency: halfway between a creamy and crunchy variegated and a soft “stracciatella”.
The taste is typical of salted caramel, enriched by the addition of roasted peanuts in pieces, to recreate the “crunchy” effect. What makes Crunchytella special is its multiple use in both ice cream and pastry making; excellent as a crunchy variegate for ice cream, but also as a soft cover or insert for parfaits and sticks.
www.fugar.it 17
