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n.110
MARCH
2021
editorialis
C
The Renaissance
“Come si cambia, per non morire ... “ these are the words of a famous song by Fiorella Mannoia, they mean that the human beings have to change for not dying. A phrase that is an absolute imperative these days, we live and work in an era where changes are evident and unavoidable, even in the wake of the pandemic that has overwhelmed us. We will find ourselves in front of a consumer who, after the traumatic experience, will be in some way conditioned and more oriented in the choices and particularly attentive to a lower environmental impact of food and, therefore, to sustainability. A change where technology will be increasingly at the center: it is evident the fact that different applications have invaded and pervaded the food delivery sector. As a matter
of fact, the “digitalization of consumption” is among the trends launched in 2020 concerning the world of out-of-home consumption, which we will find again in the coming months. Together with tools such as online reservations, contactless payment and digital menus to be the masters. We must adapt, adapt to new situations, in order not to die, but rather than die I would use a much more beautiful and fascinating term ... to be reborn. Yes, to be reborn, finding the necessary energy in the strength and resilience that has always belonged to catering operators, making use of the experiences gained in these terrible months and above all exploiting all the news, the new trends that have emerged in these pandemic months. Nothing will be the same, but it might be better than before. Let’s get ready for the Renaissance. Giuseppe ROTOLO
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HORETAIL
Chef at home
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HORETAIL
Haute cuisine directly at home
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o call for a home chef is a trend that began in the United States several years ago, which for some time has also been gaining success in Europe and now also in Italy. The global pandemic that has kept us all at home for over a year has obviously accelerated the rise of the trend. Not everyone likes to cook or not everyone manages to organize themselves in the kitchen: there are people who don’t have time and those who don’t want to. In these cases, the chef at home could be a very valid alternative. Whether it’s a dinner to surprise friends or a special event, the personal chef combines high professionalism and the convenience of enjoying haute cuisine dishes directly at home, in your comfortable intimate rooms. That means, a private restaurant, to which you can only invite whoever you want.
But, don’t forget that this kind of service is very different from home catering or food delivery service. A personal chef, in fact, does not deliver readymade food, but cooks directly at your home or in the place you have chosen for your event. It means having a chef who, starting from the excellence of the raw materials, prepares them with knowledge and competence, removing the burden of culinary efforts and leaving those who organize only the pleasure of the event. The peculiarity is that it is a tailor-made service. First of all, it is the chef who comes wherever you decide
But what exactly does a home chef do? What does it prepare and how much does it cost? Where can he/she be found? The home chef is a professional with two passions: the first is good food; the second brings quality directly to the customer’s “home”. Not only he is an Executive Chef, who creates the dishes and coordinates the kitchen, but he also takes care of the entire set-up. 5
HORETAIL
to organize your event. Then, the menu is decided together with the customers: some professionals specialize in certain types of gastronomy, but there is always the option of being surprised by the chef’s creativity. Not a pre-packaged package, therefore, but a sensory journey declined each time according to tastes and preferences, with a tailored approach. With the increase in demand, supply has obviously also grown. Thus a specific association was also born, the Italian Federation of Professional Personal Chefs, which organizes training courses to obtain the relevant qualification. The services of the personal chef Once the personal chef has been chosen and contacted, a good professional inspects your home or the location of the event, both to establish the menu and to see the kitchen. In fact, your kitchen will be his workplace, so he will evaluate the equipment and size of the spaces. Based on the number of participants and the complexity of the courses, he may also decide to get help from some collaborators. It will then be during the preparation of the menu 6
that the personalized approach of this service will emerge, with the possibility of participating in the creation of the dinner according to your tastes. It is important to always report any intolerances and allergies or culinary preferences. However, a competent home chef knows how to range from the vegetarian menu to the ethnic one, passing through the great traditional classics. It will be the chef’s responsibility to do the shopping, the cost of which will be reimbursed on the basis of the receipts. Usually, the professional also takes care of buying the wines that best match the dishes. The chef at home, therefore, will cook the dishes directly at home or in the chosen location while the hosts will be seated comfortably at the table with their guests. If you want, however, you can also attend the preparation, taking the opportunity to steal some secrets. Finally, the professional will also take care of the mise-en-place. Every occasion is good, for a home chef The home chef can also be an excellent solution for firm events: it is business lunches, conventions or meetings, the personal chef will guarantee a particular,
HORETAIL
personalized and impactful character to the company’s organized appointment. One of the characteristics of the service, in fact, is the fact that the chef at home will guarantee attention to detail and attention that cannot always be found in great restaurants.
Where to find a home chef? Obviously, after word of mouth, the web is the easiest way to find a chef at home to book and invite to your home. You can search directly through the Internet or rely on a portal like Showgroup.it that aggregates the various professionals. Here many home chefs have personal online showcases. Inside you can find the presentation, the training course, their culinary philosophy and the gastronomies in which they specialize. Obviously, the cards also indicate the methods of contact. However, the advice is to do a geo-localized search so as not to waste time. Often, personal chefs organize cooking classes at home (or at their homes) and, at times, they take care of catering, even if the two services are different. It is always best to read the reviews of other customers and choose a reputable professional.
Cook at home: the costs There are no standard rates for this type of service. Costs vary and depend on the number of participants, the number of courses, the use of particular products, the complexity of the preparations, the need of collaborators and any additional services. Indicatively, the prices range in a fairly wide range, from 30 to 300 euros per person. In total, there will be items such as expenses, to be reimbursed, and the possible rental of equipment (such as dishes or pots). And if you call a chef from another city, the price could increase for the trip costs. Finally, it must be considered that a dinner for a few guests has a higher cost than one for more guests, because the expense is divided between a lower number of seats. Therefore, the best thing is to ask for a detailed and personalized quote. The advantage, however, will be to have a great chef at our service for one evening. And this will give the opportunity to taste haute cuisine dishes, in a complete relax, at the time you desire and the tranquility of the chosen location. 7
Trends
Edible flowers
feeding body and soul 8
Trends
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dible flowers in the kitchen are an increasingly growing trend because they give dishes color, liveliness but also taste. More and more often we are witnessing gourmet dishes adorned with pansy, with nasturtiums or with velvety rose petals. Edible flowers are not only a feast for the eyes, but also for the palate. Borage, for example, tastes of watermelon, calendula adds a little bit of sourness, the beautiful rocket flowers a pinch of pepper. Now, eating flowers may seem a bit strange, but certainly each of us ate them, perhaps without thinking about it. After all, broccoli, artichokes, cauliflowers, are all inflorescences of the plants we have a sweet tooth. Cooking with flowers may also seem like a novelty, but in fact there is a certain history behind it: the Chinese have been using them for thousands of years, and there is evidence of their use by the Romans. In Victorian England, roses were used for a variety of dishes. Today we are witnessing a beautiful renaissance of this idea. But before you go to the garden below the house to pick flowers, you need to be careful! Some flowers are poisonous; therefore, it is necessary to select with care the types to be used in the kitchen, following the cycle of the seasons and relying on producers who are able to provide useful information regarding the conservation and transformation of the product. The Antea project is based on these premises, an ItalianFrench initiative promoted by CREA (the Council for research in agriculture and the analysis of the
agricultural economy) and financed by the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF), with the aim of creating a network of experimentation, research, dissemination and training relating to the floriculture sector. The flowers of: yarrow, wild garlic, orange, basil, borage, calendula, chamomile, honeysuckle, carrot, centaury, chrysanthemum, dandelion, dahlia, chives, cornflower, carnation, jasmine, geranium, sunflower, iris are edible, lavender, lilac, magnolia, mauve, daisy, mint, myrtle, nasturtium, poppy, passionflower, peach, primrose, locust, rose, rosemary, rocket, sage, elder, mustard, lime, clover, tulip, pansy, pumpkin, courgette. From a nutritional point of view, however, edible flowers are an excellent source of minerals, proteins and vitamins A and C; the content of antioxidants is also noteworthy, due to the presence of flavonoids and carotenoids, which determine the color of the petals (purple in the first case, orange or red in the second). These are the good reasons to bring them on the table.
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gliATTREZZIdelmestiere
Boxes, backpacks and thermal bags all the solutions for an excellent delivery service
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oes your pizzeria make home delivery service? Are you sure to have all the necessary equipment to ensure your customers a quality delivery service? Gi.Metal has a wide range of products designed for this need: different types and capacities to adapt to the dimensions of the cartons commonly used for the transport of pizza.
The boxes to be fixed on the scooter are insulated, that is with thermally insulated double wall, or not insulated with single wall. Available in 5 sizes, they can accommodate standard ø 33 cm cartons up to ø 50 cm and rectangular 40x60 cm cartons. 10
gliATTREZZIdelmestiere
The black semi-rigid cases (up to 12 boxes of ø 33 cm, or 8 of ø 40 cm) have a triple use: on a scooter, in the car or as a backpack.
The thermal bags in soft fabric are available in 5 different sizes, for standard size pizzas (33-36 cm), maxi sizes (40, 45, 50 cm) up to pizza in shovel (size 40x60 cm) The fabric is soft and durable, with side air intakes for condensation to escape and a practical housing for orders. Excellent thermal insulation thanks to the rapid and effective opening and tear-off closure that guarantees perfect closure even with fewer
cartons. The bags with rigid walls (in 3 sizes) have an insulating zip closure, are made of nylon with air intakes for condensation to escape and comfortable carrying handles. Finally, the thermal bag with rigid backpack walls is available in 2 sizes: capacity 10 cartons ø 33 cm or 7 cartons ø 40 cm 10 cartons ø 36 cm.
What are you bsite it our we is V r? fo g in it wa l.it www.gimeta nge of ole ra to see the wh . products
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Events
new dates new events
Welcome back to our old home, Olympia National Hall, London!
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fter being forced to take a year out due to the pandemic, the European Pizza & Pasta Show (EPPS) is set to return in October 2021 to Olympia Exhibition Center, London with plans for a bigger event with more cooking programs and competitions. The show, which is now 5 years old and which is supported by The Pizza Pasta & Italian Food Association (PAPA), will feature a broad range of exhibitors from around the world covering all sectors of the market, from Italian restaurants to pizza delivery. As well as showcasing some of the innovations that have emerged during the lockdowns of 2020, the show will provide a much needed opportunity for this £ 4 billion UK industry to get together with opportunities for renewing contacts and networking. It will also provide the backdrop for the finals of the UK Pizza Chef of the Year competitions.Now well established as the premier exhibition for the European pizza, pasta and Italian food in-
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dustry, EPPS 2021 is expected to include exhibitors from the USA as well as from across Europe. “I am very excited that the show has been able to secure key dates in October (18/19) at Olympia, which has always been our first choice as it provides the exhibitors and visitors easy access to central London and to the airports,” says Slava Blagoeva, the show’s director. “The timing is also perfect as it is well ahead of the busy Christmas season.” Says PAPA Director Jim Winship: “EPPS is the annual showcase for our industry - it was really missed in 2020. The return of the show in 2021 will provide a real fillip for everyone and an opportunity for us all to catch up again and start thinking positively about the future. “ For more information or how to exhibit, please contact the team behind The European Pizza and Pasta Show, 1819 October 2021, National Hall, Olympia, London at: info@pizzapastashow.com - Tel: +44 (0) 2073524356
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In Hong Kong, Italian good taste signed
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Giovanni Pina and Caffè Milani
he century-old Italian bakery brand Giovanni Pina has expanded the business outside its border, and the world’s first branch settled in Hong Kong. Caffè Milani, one of the most famous coffee brands in Italy that arrived at Hong Kong at a similar time, has joined forces with Giovanni Pina to deliver authentic Italian coffee and pastries to Hong Kong market, creating an Italian sensation in the city. Italian Master Chef, Giovanni Pina, is in town to lead the team Giovanni Pina, a master bakery brand from Italy, takes everyone on a journey into the world of delightful and sweet pastries. It was founded a century ago in the heart of Trescore Balneario (Bergamo), Italy, and is a bakery brand that has been in existence for three generations. The third generation of Giovanni Pina, bearing the same name as the brand, is a master of the Italian baking industry. As the third generation, Giovanni Pina has been specializing in baking for 40 years. With his family roots and natural talents, Giovanni Pina won the International Pastry Gold Medal and the honorary title of “Master of Desserts” in 1994,
being the youngest one to have this achievement. In 2009, he was selected as one of the 100 best dessert masters in the world, an honor that only 6 people in Italy have received so far. Giovanni Pina arrived in Hong Kong and is in charge of the Hong Kong operation of this century old brand to ensure an authentic taste of Italian pastries is served to every Hong Kong diner. 13
ristochef
a cura di Marianna Calderaro
Cod in “cooking oil”
on potato cream and Ciliegino tomatoes baked with tarallo wafer
Teacher, chef, cooking tutorial and gastronomic consultant, Marianna Calderaro is a FIC member, a passionate professional and will handle this new section on Pizza & core collection. Her experience and preparation were formed with the Professional Course at the Eccelsa Institute; participated in professional courses and won competitions; she collaborated with ALICE TV where he carried out cooking tutorials within the television program “Casa Alice”, she also took part in the 7th Edition of Masterchef, working under the guidance of chefs Bruno Barbieri, Antonino Cannavacciuolo, Antonia Klugman. Selected as a teacher by the CEF (European Training Center), she currently works at Masseria Montalbano - Masseria Villaggio of the sixteenth century.
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Exported all over the world, from Viking Norway to the Lofoten Islands, cod is a food consisting of two species of northern cod, salted and seasoned. It seems that the salting procedure of cod is attributed to the Basque fishermen. Personally, I was fascinated by the immense expanses of cod and stockfish encountered during a trip to the Lofoten islands. I can testify to the care and passion employed in these areas in treating this food, as well as the strong smell that airs along the streets of the cities. Despite it comes us from distant seas, the cod has conquered our tables. Our grandmothers and mothers, thanks to their wisdom, have made it a unique dish ready to delight our palates with many and different recipes, which contain traditions from north to south. In this virtual space, I’m going to propose a recipe for cod in “cooking oil”. The cooking oil can be done in 2 different ways: by dipping the food directly into the saucepan in which the oil was heated or by cooking it in vacuum cooking. It is a rather simple technique and does not require particularly long times; consists in cooking food immersed in oil at a low temperature (from 40 ° C to 80 ° C), generating a barrier on the surface of the product and allowing all the natural aromas to be preserved. In order for the “cooking oil” to be successful and pleasant, the oil temperature must always be constant, in this regard it is good to have a kitchen thermometer to monitor the temperatures.
Ingredients for 4 people Potatoes cream - 600 gr of potatoes - 500 ml of vegetable broth - 1 shallot - 20 gr of extra virgin olive oil - Salt Cod in cooking oil - 4 slices of desalted cod of 150 gr each
- 1 sprig of rosemary - 500 ml of extra virgin olive oil
Baked Ciliegino tomatoes - 100 gr of red datterino tomatoes - 100 gr of yellow datterino tomatoes - 20 gr of extra virgin olive oil -1 clove of garlic - 4 basil leaves
- Salt
Tarallo wafer - 50 gr of traditional tarallos - 25 gr of egg white For powders - 100 gr of black olives - 100 gr of tomato pulp - 20 gr of parsley
PROCEDURE Clean and cut the potatoes into cubes, put them in a pan with Evo oil and previously heated shallots, brown the potatoes and add the vegetable broth, leave to cook for about 30 minutes; blend and season with salt. In a blender, cut the taralli together with the egg white, spread the mixture obtained between 2 sheets of parchment paper with the help of a rolling pin to reach the desired thickness, cup and bake at 150 ° C for 30 minutes. For the powders: bake the pitted olives, tomato pulp and parsley leaves at 50 ° C until completely dry, blend in a high-speed blender. Cut the ciliegino tomatoes in half, place them in a plate with the crushed garlic clove, the basil leaves and season with oil and salt, bake at 90 ° C for 1 hour. In a saucepan, heat the extra virgin olive oil with the sprig of rosemary, bring it to a temperature of 80 ° C (monitor the temperature with a thermometer), immerse the cod fillets and bring the core to 53 ° C (monitor with a probe). Drain the cod fillets on absorbent paper, lay them on the potato cream, lay the cherry tomatoes on the side, place the tarallo wafer on top and decorate with the camouflage pattern powders.
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L’inserto dedicato al mOndo della pasticceria, gelateria e caffetteria
t e e w s a n o e d u l c n o c o T
sweetadvertorial
presents the “Croccante”
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dedicated to pastry chef
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e are sure that no confectionary preparation, is able to diffuse such a persuasive fragrance as a freshly baked crunchy. In the pastry lab, where goodness is produced, the aroma of the crunchy creates a persuasive impulse to consumption, thus also playing a promotional role, we would say of “olfactory marketing”. Apparently simple to prepare, it requires a balanced dosage of sugars, completed by a well-calibrated oily part. Another focal point is the right moment of extraction from the oven (when it is just browned), to make the most of the shiny appearance and taste of this typical dessert of the Mediterranean tradition. Fugar composes its BASE NEUTRA PER CROCCANTE powder mix by introducing sugars with a lower caloric impact and has chosen cocoa butter for the lipid portion, in place of palmitic fats. The resulting label is clean and certified. How can you transform the mix for Croccante by Fugar? Simply spreading it in purity on supports that can be parchment paper or a Silpat mat and cooking it in the oven for eight / nine minutes at 190 ° / 200 ° with the oven door opened. It becomes greedier if we add dried fruit. In this case, 500 grams of BASE NEUTRA PER CROCCANTE and
300 grams of fruits such as hazelnuts, almonds, peanuts, cashews. The ingredients are mixed, rolled out and baked. If we use sesame as an oily fruit, we get the traditional Sicilian “giuggiulena”. What are the uses of the CROCCANTE in pastry? The Croccante can be used as a base for cakes, replacing sponge cake or other. Inside them, we can insert a thin layer of brittle that enriches the taste and causes a “crunchy” sound. Golden flaps and thin crunchy tips can garnish the circumference of sweets. Its fragments can enrich a smooth cream, or a parfait. As soon as it is taken out of the oven it can be molded and the figures obtained become an attraction for the shop windows and embellish the “mise en place”. What are the uses of the Croccante in ice cream? It is used to decorate cups and trays, or to create baskets in which to serve ice cream. A new idea consists in forming an energy bar by working the Croccante enriched with raisins, chocolate chips and a brush of honey, then softening the mixture slightly with water. Then it is sufficient to shape the bar in the silicone molds. www.fugar.it 19