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n.108
January
2021
editorialis
T he P hoenix T
he phoenix was a beautiful bird similar to a golden eagle with red feathers and a goldcolored neck, legend has it that it was able to dominate fire and, when it happened that the fire burned it, it always managed to rise from its ashes, magically. At the time of the Coronavirus and the serious economic crisis that followed, the legend of the Phoenix becomes an essential point of reference, it is quite necessary to believe into this myth, because we need to nurture our hope, the hope that after this recent tragedy we can, indeed, be reborn. After all, we were born in order to be reborn, an assumption, an imperative that applies to everyone and also to the world of pizza and catering. The lockdown and the pandemic have in fact brought the sector to its knees, days and days without being able to open the premises, then an uncertain reopening with even small revenues and to have to face with enormous increased costs of management. Yet in this very difficult situation, the restaurant world has reacted, is trying to react. It researches new and possible paths, reorganizes itself, reviews and optimizes costs, makes the most of technology, opens up to innovation, rides the changes in progress. In short, he does not give up. It
throws his heart over the obstacle, he points to the future after Covid. Restaurateurs and pizza makers embody this spirit well, they will know how to reinvent themselves as, for example, the symbolic dish of Italy, pizza, tricolor like its flag, has been able to make in its bicentennial history. An ancient and very modern dish is at the same time a bridge between the gastronomic past and the future, a democratic and cosmopolitan product. We say democratic, but apolitical, which satisfies every taste, always faithful to its original intuition, a simple disk of pasta that although stuffed with few ingredients is appreciated everywhere, becoming the essence of gastronomic happiness. Like the happiness that we are chasing and that we deserve after this incredible year‌where Covid, like a fire, burned the Phoenix. Will 2021 be the year of the restart? Yes, absolutely yes, it will be the year of the Phoenix. My best Wishes Giuseppe Rotolo
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Events firstFLOOR
It’s a far cry from how it was before
E
verything changes because nothing changes” is a famous expression contained in the novel “Il Gattopardo”, a masterpiece by the Sicilian writer Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa (1896-1957). A statement that attested to the immutability of some social conditions in Sicily in the 1800s. But in the current time of the Coronavirus can this maxim still be applied? Or we have to take into consideration the much declaimed: “Nothing will be the same as before”. As usual, the truth lies in the middle. Tracing the reflections back to the world of pizza and catering, certainly one of the sectors most affected and penalized by the crisis from Covid-19, the changes taking place are evident, such as the delivery phenomenon, consecrated to the time of the Coronavirus, which will remain even after. In facts, some forecasts affirm that
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in 2025, one out of four meals in Italy will be served in delivery mode. The evolution of dining away from home, at home, will even contribute to re-designing a new layout of the restaurant with an extension of the kitchen, a rearrangement of the dining room and spaces equipped for delivery and take away. The chefs in the kitchen will continue to be there, but the waiters in the dining room will probably become riders. This is the great change! Furthermore, there are also the changes that will lead to the increasingly sophisticated and targeted use of technology such as the use of digital menus, apps for reservations, restaurant management through the use of devices to allow savings and improvements. The changes occurred in the catering sector are evident, but what should not change are the pillars on which good catering is based: professionalism of the operators, quality of the products, enhancement of
firstFLOOR
the food specialties of the territory, of the different regions with that immense food and wine heritage that belongs to our country. And then, after putting together what changes with what does not change (it could be appear a nonsense) we can trace the road after Covid, where nothing will be the same, but we must imagine that afterwards it could be better than before, considering the winning factors that the change brings into play are at stake, without neglecting the pillars of the world of pizza and catering. Undoubtedly But as always, at the center of the question there must be always the consumers. Without them, nothing would exist. We would like to imagine the future and foresee what follows: the number of people who are moving towards healthier consumption will grow, attention is being paid to what they eat, aware that food and health are interrelated. Hence the search for healthier and healthier foods, without sacrificing taste and increasingly looking for the typical products of the area. From healthy ingredients to functional ingredients in dishes. Proposals and formats are multiplying that focus on the beneficial effects of particular dishes and ingredients
on health. The range of restaurants or individual dishes designed for specific dietary needs is expanding. Freefrom menus (lactose, gluten) and vegetarian and vegan proposals are multiplying. Customers and consumers who will increasingly use technology to choose the place to live their experience, which will not just be tasteful, but will want to experience the so-called “Consumer experience�, for this it is necessary to create attractive environments and experiences. This is a central element to conquer them. The growing attention to sustainability issues pushes the world of outside the home to rethink the processes to reduce the use of plastic, waste, waste, greenhouse gas emissions, etc. The customer will appreciate these choices by the restaurateur. The importance of information on supply, food origins, cultivation methods and product processing is growing. And the attention to eco-initiatives. Customers want to become experts. They surf the internet in search of news on the unknown ingredient, the properties of food, producers, restaurateurs and consumers. 5
theINTERVIEW
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theINTERVIEW
Simone Padoan The sense of my job
H
ow has the pizza world changed in this Covid era and what has to be done to “jump” into the future? These are the most meaningful themes of the catering and food field in the current pandemic. The answers are under our eyes: resilience and expectation…waiting for the most difficult challenge that is the rebirth. Let’s talk about it with Simone Padoan. Hi Simone, let’s start with the hottest trouble: the pandemic of Coronavirus. It has actually brought the world of catering and pizza to its knees, a sector that risks to come out after the Covid with its bones broken. We hope that it will soon find a successful way out. How is Simone Padoan reacting to this storm, what can you suggest to your colleagues? «It is really a leap year, a fatal year, of course I don’t have the magic sphere to predict the future, but what I can say that never as in this moment we have to keep a clear mind, do not let ourselves be taken by the pessimism, trying to make the effort to see the glass half full. Personally, even if the end of these times is somewhat out of place, I strive to be positive, calm, with the awareness that everything will pass, trying to maintain the clarity of thought to make the most appropriate choices. However, the situation remains very complicated. Many colleagues are in great difficulty, they are suffering the economic crisis, especially those who work in the big cities. Resilience is needed, it is important to keep the flame burning, even if only with take-away and delivery, certainly not much is earned. It is not just an economic issue, but a mental fact, working even with little is a sign of hope which is fundamental at this moment». 7
theINTERVIEW
The COVID 19 phenomenon risks being a historic watershed: in social relations, in work, in short, there will be a before and after Coronavirus. Will there be in your opinion a before and after in the pizza world too? In other words, once the emergency is over, will everything be the same with the reopening of the premises? «I thing that nothing will be as before, at least I hope so: on the contrary I hope that the previous mistakes will not be made again, see this summer, when with a minimum “green light” and with regained freedom, the conditions for the second wave of the pandemic were unfortunately created. Here these mistakes must not be repeated, we cannot afford it. We will go back to normality, but it will take time. In the meantime, we are studying and analyzing this change which has certainly been accelerated by the Covid crisis. A change that, as far as the catering offer is concerned, will represent a watershed between quality catering and junk food. There will be no middle ground, quality will increasingly be a determining unit of measurement, and not everyone will make this choice. There will be a gap between the restaurateur and the pizza chef who aims to enhance with an adequate offer the best products with their organoleptic characteristics and above all their history, and those who will instead be forced into the “war of the poor” by lowering every level of offer and professionalism to get by. But it won’t get very far. Here the Covid crisis has accelerated this gap». 8
And What about the customer? The consumer is always at the center of every commercial policy, even more so for the catering sector. Will we have a “new” kind customer? How will you approach the consumer experience outside home, What are you preparing for your customers? «To answer this question, let’s analyze ourselves, because we are restaurateurs and consumers at the same time. I say that we will have more curious consumers, who will want to treat themselves better. They will want to know, to understand what they are eating or drinking, they will be able to make conscious choices». Looking to the future (as hope and as a good omen), what do you think are the three “commandments”, the three key words that pizza operators will have to implement to face the future? «I can give, without any presumption, the three rules that have always been part of my professional experience and which I am convinced will also be valid in the Post Covid path. The first is “Rigor”, that is to impose rules, like commandments and do everything to observe them without ever giving in to compromises, a sort of consistency that customers appreciate, but not only them, I would also say suppliers, rigor and consistency always pays off in the end. The second rule is “Discipline”, a serious professional cannot
ignore first an education and mental strength, then the discipline of work and professionalism. The third rule is called “Quality”, quality at 360 degrees, from the product to the profession to the relationship with customers, quality as a positive unit of measurement remembering that the simplicity of the proposal is not important, but the quality of the proposal. Finally, to conclude, always find a sense in what you are doing, in your job. In the search for meaning, and therefore for reason, there is a path that leads us to improve. Improving ourselves is something we must always strive for, even and especially after Covid». Interview with Simone Padoan by Giuseppe ROTOLO 9
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trends
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trends
Bitter, grappa and vermouth are the most popular after-meal classics in bars and restaurants.
A
fter all, a digestive bitter is a customer’s veiled request for a ‘little moment of pleasure’. This is why we might say, paraphrasing a well-known Italian advertisement, that “if it is not good, where’s the pleasure?” Serving a carefully crafted bitter is the kind of thing that can really make a difference, something that should give the drinker a pleasant feeling and the will to come back for more. The main effect of bitters is to stimulate the production of gastric juices, deflating the stomach and intestines and giving an immediate feeling of well-being. But appearances also count. Apart from personal taste, as regards the type of liqueur, bitters should always be served in the classic cylindrical or truncatedcone glass. A low, flared tumbler is certainly the best option when serving a bitter with ice. A handful of ice cubes is more than enough, but you can also choose to garnish the glass with sprigs of herbs ( preferably matching those contained in the bitter itself) or by diluting the drink with 1/5 of a tonic, ginger ale or fruit juice. There are countless recipes for cocktails with bitters that require the addition of fruit, from the classic ‘Amaretto’ with orange juice or the brand new Amaro Lucano Cobbler, added with wine, tonic, sugar and garnished with mint leaves or berries. Clear or
transparent bitters, on the other hand, are best served in a completely transparent, thin crystal; for bitters to be served cold, choose stemmed goblets to prevent the sipper’s hand from warming the drink. The dose of bitter should always respect the ratio of 1/3 of the glass capacity. But what are the origins of one of the most popular alcoholic drinks? We usually use the term ‘bitter’ to refer to any herbal liqueur, suitable as an after-meal digestive and with an alcohol content not exceeding 45° (although there are stronger ones). However, a bitter does not necessarily have to live up to its name. Many of these digestive liqueurs are characterised by a sweetish taste, and they are preferred for “corrected coffee” (coffee with the addition of liquor). It is a common belief that the more bitter a liqueur is, the better it helps digestion. After all, it should not be forgotten that the history of many bitters, such as Averna or the bitter made from Gentian (typical in Abruzzo region), stems from the work of the medieval pharmacies of Benedictine monks, who used them as medicines. In fact, the alcohol’s properties made it possible to extract the active principle of the infused herbs or roots, bringing benefits to those who consumed them. 13
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L’Amaro Bonaventura “Erbe e fiori” si ispira al nostro vecchio Amaro Bonaventura del secolo scorso, in cui i fiori sono l’elemento fondante, la nostra eredità. Se Prime Uve Bianche è l’espressione della vigna da cui viene, con “Erbe e fiori” uniamo alla vigna anche il giardino profumato. In questo amaro, che rappresenta idealmente una passeggiata in un giardino fiorito, troviamo note floreali di geranio, legno di rosa, tiglio e fiordaliso; accompagnate dall’amaro dell’ortica e del trifoglio fibrino, e rinfrescate dai sentori agrumati di arancia e cedro. La chiusura dell’amaro è arricchita dalle sensazioni di mela e pera, tipiche dell’acquavite d’uva. Colore: ambrato scuro con riflessi dorati. Olfatto: note di fiordaliso, rosa e tiglio con delicate sfumature agrumate. Gusto: piacevolmente amaro con sensazioni floreali e fruttate. Capacità delle bottiglie: 0.70 L. Gradazione alcolica: 30% Vol.
“Erbe e fiori” is a fresh take on the Amaro Bonaventura the company used to produce during the past century, keeping the original focus on flowers as our true inspiration. If Prime Uve Bianche is the quintessential expression of the personality of a vineyard, with “Erbe e fiori” we add the scents of the garden. This Amaro is like an imaginary stroll in a blooming field: you will experience floral notes of geranium, rosewood, linden and cornflower. The pleasant bitter side is granted, among others, by nettle and bogbean, with a fresh citrusy scent on top. The closing is enriched by echoes of apple and pear, a gift from the grape distillate that inspired the whole bouquet. Colour: dark amber with golden nuances. Aroma: notes of cornflower, linden and rose with delicate citrusy tones. Palate: pleasantly bitter with fruity and floral sensations. Bottle size: 0,70 L. Alcohol by volume: 30% Vol.
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advertorial
L’Amaro Bonaventura “Erbe e spezie” è l’amaro che nasce da Prime Uve Nere, acquavite dal carattere meditativo che viene affinata in legno e presenta quindi profumi speziati e tostati. E sono proprio le spezie il suo tratto distintivo. Il territorio di cui vive questo Amaro è quello della Venezia dei mercanti, dell’incontro di culture, dell’opulenza, dei profumi e sapori esotici che da quella porta arrivavano provenienti da tutto il mondo. Le spezie che sono alla base del suo complesso bouquet sono la cannella, la vaniglia e la fava tonka, unite alla parte amaricante di genziana, china, salvia sclarea e arancia amara e impreziosite dalle note balsamiche del finocchio e del carvi, il cumino dei prati. Colore: bruno con riflessi mattone. Olfatto: note speziate di cannella, china e bacche di vaniglia con un finale balsamico. Gusto: amaro, speziato e avvolgente, con sensazioni di frutta secca e miele di castagno. Capacità delle bottiglie: 0.70 L. Gradazione alcolica: 30% Vol. “Erbe e spezie” is the Amaro that stems from Prime Uve Nere, our most meditative grape distillate with its spicy and toasty notes, a result of aging in wood. And spices are indeed the scents that characterize “Amaro Bonaventura” Erbe e spezie the most. The very territory of which this Amaro is an expression, the region of Venice, has been a crossroad of cultures, of eastern merchants and their opulence, of scents and flavours pouring in from all over the world. The spicy side of its complex structure is firmly backed by cinnamon, vanilla and tonka beans. The bitter side counts gentian, cinchona, clary sage and bitter orange; fennel and caraway, known as Persian cumin, add a delicate balsamic touch. Colour: brown with brick red shades. Aroma: spicy notes of cinnamon cinchona, and vanilla beans, giving way to a balsamic finish. Palate: charmingly bitter and spicy, with notes of dried fruit and chestnut honey. Bottle size: 0,70 L. Alcohol by volume: 30% Vol.
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Ricettando con
by Giuseppe Cardone
O Sole Mio
Ingredients:
- Yellow Datterini tomatoes by Succo Cirio Alta Cucina - Fior di Filetti Cirio Alta Cucina - Provola from the Monti Lattari - Cooked ham “Sant’Angelo IGP” - Buffalo Bocconcino from Campania DOP - Extra virgin olive oil with basil by Cirio
PROCEDURE: Stretch the disc of dough and garnish with the Datterini tomatoes by Succo Cirio Alta Cucina, the “Fior di filetti” Cirio Alta Cucina, add the Provola from Monti Lattari cut into strips and put in the oven. When finished, complete with roses of Prosciutto Cotto Sant’Angelo IGP, basil leaves, placing a bocconcino of buffalo from Campania DOP to in the center of the pizza, complete with drops of extra virgin olive oil aromatized with basil by Cirio.
Giuseppe Cardone is the winner at the 18th edition of the World Championship of Pizzaiuolo - Caputo Trophy in the Classic Pizza category. He has practically always had his hands in the dough, since he was 11 years old, soon after school, he was there on the pizzaiolo work desk, helping his father Vincenzo, in the family pizzeria to roll out balls of dough and to spread the tomato sauce. In short words, his DNA contains pizza and quality food. A professional whose aim to that of keeping the tradition on the first place, but at the same time looking to the innovation with the spirit and enthusiasm of a young man. He is a teacher in many culinary academies, he already successfully manages three dining shops. PIZZERIA LA PERLA 3 - Via Palermo, 80010 Villaricca (NA) - Tel. 081.344 4960
Collected perfectly ripe and processed with care within a few hours, I Datterini Gialli Cirio Alta Cucina are available in 2 flavor variants I DATTERINI GIALLI INTERI AL NATURALE With a bright yellow color, they have a creamy pulp with an extreme sweetness, they are excellent for quick preparations based on fish and seafood, and for filling invitinglooking pizzas.
I DATTERINI GIALLI INTERI IN SUCCO Immersed in yellow datterino juice for an even more enveloping and decisive taste, with their natural sweetness they enhance any fish-bar. www.cirioaltacucina.it