Pizza&corre International N 105

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n.105

September 2020

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OUR FLOUR, YOUR PASSION FOR AUTHENTICITY.

To obtain a light and digestible pizza, Le 5 Stagioni has created two special products, Semina and Pizza Delight: they maintain intact the most noble part of the grain, giving friability and intense flavor. Suitable for your long leavening doughs. Find out your ideal flour on le5stagioni.it

Is a brand Agugiaro & Figna


editorialis

in all the languages of the world

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izza is an universal language, after all the term pizza is untranslated and untranslatable, a word that leads to the promise of something warm and tasty, friendly and consoling all over the world. A magic that happens every day, at least millions of times a day, indeed hundreds of millions of times, because pizza is everywhere and everywhere it keeps (although not always with the same quality) its friendly and tasty promise. Pizza is therefore food for the world, and it isn’t a casualty that the art of pizza maker has been sanctioned as a UNESCO unmaterial heritage, a dish that expresses great social value, not only in Italy but also abroad. Although Italy, starting from Naples, remains the birthplace of this global product, it is equally true that the followers of this school now inhabit the four corners of the globe. To photograph this panorama, the one beyond the borders of our country, is dedicated 50 Top Pizza Europe, the “foreign” editorial staff of the guide to the best

pizzerias in Italy, which streamed the 2020 edition of the ranking. Where it emerges that the capital of pizza (outside Italy) is London. But in this capital city, there is an Italian pizzaiolo: Ciro Salvo with his 50 Kalò London in Trafalgar Square. Following him on the podium, there is Via Toledo “enopizzeria” (that means tasting of wines and pizzas) in Vienna and the Bijou in Paris, that also won the Pizza of the Year award, with his Tuna and onions pizza, a very Italian tradition brought to the heart of the Ville Lumière. Among the top 15 awarded pizzerias, there are also many places in Scandinavian countries, such as Baest in Copenhagen, fourth in the ranking, which got the medal for sustainability and Luca Platania’s Pizzeria Luca, present both with the Copenhagen office (9 Place) than with that of Helsinki (15th). In short words, the top pizza speaks almost all the languages of the world, its taste is a pandemic of goodness.

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Trends

Catering and the new that advances

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Trends

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In the field of preparation, sale and consumption of food a revolution is coming soon. It is favored by two factors that are in some ways the antithesis: technology and pandemic.

n fact, Italians are becoming more and more omnivorous digital consumers: during the lockdown, in just two months of isolation, e-commerce practically exploded and changed (perhaps) forever the consumption habits of Italians. At least 29 million digital consumers were guided by the search for a “safe experience� and by the so-called proximity commerce, that is the integration between the large e-commerce players and small retailers thanks to logistics and platforms delivery. A trend that concerns and will increasingly affect Ho.re.ca. as well. For example, concerning this last aspect, for those restaurants and pizzerias that operate with delivery, it is estimated that the proceeds generated by the home delivery apps are equal to approximately 800 million euros and that, within two years, the figure may quintuple. Today commissions range from 8 to 14% for apps that only act as a showcase and up to 25/30% for apps that also offer a logistics service. In short, it’s a nice piece of the pie. Delivery is a market to keep an eye on, which is getting richer, colossal alliances arise such as the merger in Italy between Just Eat and Takeaway. An alliance where a series of synergies are triggered in services, marketing and technology, all to seize the

extraordinary opportunities of the delivery market. But the hunger of the giants did not end here, the dish is even richer and more substantial worldwide. Just Eat Takeaway aims to acquire Grubhub in the first quarter of 2021 through an equity transaction worth $ 7.3 billion. The largest food delivery company in the world (apart from China) would be born. Under the agreement, the awareness of how the food delivery industry will have to consolidate in the coming years to reach its full development potential, to the benefit of consumers and restaurants. But delivery is only one aspect of the new advances, a phenomenon that uses and exploits all kinds of technological innovations, especially in order management and in breaking down the barrier between consumers and suppliers. Just think of AUTOGRILL which offers the possibility, through its APP, to book your drink on the go, even before the traveller reaches the service station. Therefore, no more queues and long stays inside. Book on the go, withdraw on the fly and then eat open air. The goal is to obtain health security, speed and digital payment that will soon be able to be done also via Telepass. 5


Tendenze

The example of Uber Eats, which launched the Pickup function in Italy, is also worthwhile, allowing all users of the App to collect dishes directly from the chosen restaurant after ordering from the platform. With Pickup, Uber Eats confirms its commitment to supporting the catering sector in this particular moment, which has seen a decrease in on-site supply and which sees food delivery and take-away as an increasingly important solution. Therefore, it can be said that artificial intelligence will also mark the future of catering, in fact there are many new technological solutions present in different application fields and which will increasingly dictate the rules for the management of a restaurant: from restaurant menus to the possibility of analyze customer Big Data, forecast orders and organize work in the kitchen. Digitization, optimization, maximization of activities and costs, after Covid, and thanks to the increasingly pushed use of artificial intelligence, a real revolution has been launched, where Ho.re.ca. will be increasingly social media. As a matter of fact, there is a precise data: investments in social marketing in the Ho.re.ca. sector, in Italy, are on the rise according to the AddLance observatory, social media management projects for hotels, tourist and accommodation facilities, restaurants and catering, have exceeded the expense items for web projects only. A ripple effect on all Italian Piedmont whose request for web services had a 600% surge between February and May 2020. To conclude with the revolution, some opportune considerations must be made on these three “strange” words: ghost, dark, virtual kitchen. What are we talking about? On the other side of the ocean they are already a re-

ality and it’s safe to bet that in a few years they will also be protagonists in Europe. Ghost is a restaurant that supplies delivery platforms with its own brands or signs, while the dark kitchen is managed by a traditional restaurateur who dedicates a space to delivery, while in a virtual kitchen, an established brand or sign enters a market where is not present, through a franchise agreement. According to Ho.re.ca. experts, the growth of delivery will also be functional to the growth of these “strange” kitchens that deliver ready meals only at home. In this kitchen there is a piece of the future and from here we need to start if we want to imagine what the catering of tomorrow will be like and better read the revolution underway, operators and companies that exist according to the web, aiming to build new economies proximity on foundations, of a highly technological nature. But in the long run, will these phenomena, more virtual than physical, also eat up the good old pizzeria with its walls, chairs and tables? We hope not.


Neapolitan quality and tradition Stefano Ferrara a third-generation craftman, has began with his job when he was a teenager at the side of his father, an appreciated and well known craftman named Mastu Natale, with which he learnt all the tecniques and secrets handed down from the past generations to build authentic neapolitan pizza ovens, that are, nowadays, still built brick on brick without using any prefabricated part, as old tradition wants. Through the years the various skills have reached a specialization level of considerable importance, and today, thanks to all the passion, care and attention for the details, our ovens not only ensure excellent performances in terms of cooking and heat retention, but they are unique pieces of neapolitan craftmanship, appreciated and requested in the whole whorld. http://www.stefanoferraraforni.it/en/


l’INTERVISTA

Davide Civitiello the future is a challenge

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izza&core interviews Davide Civitiello, a passionate ambassador of quality pizza around the world.

When was Davide Civitiello born as a pizza chef? «I must admit that I was precocious, I was just 9 when I began to “damage” the first pizzas, practically a “scugnizzo”. I began in the pizzeria Da Gennaro by Vin-

cenzo Costa, who took me under his wing and taught me all the secrets of the job: I always remember those hours I spent in that pizza kitchen and above all I remember his teachings, concerning even before the art of pizza, that of life. A great teacher, in every sense. Shortly after my 18 years I decided that it was time to test myself: so I left that pizzeria that had now become like a second family, to begin my path of professio-


l’INTERVISTA

nal and personal growth, which led me to meet Rossopomodoro. It was a very particular historical moment for pizza which was seen as something inviolable, to be kept as anchored as possible to tradition, instead even the most advanced tradition needs innovation. A vision that belonged to Rossopomodoro Team, who experimented with completely new recipes and doughs, placing itself in a highly innovative way within this world. A vision that belonged to me too, to get involved, always. I accepted the challenge, a challenge that led me to reach an important goal: the victory in 2013 of the twelfth edition of the World Championship of Pizzaiuolo Trofeo Caputo. A victory that marked the beginning of my collaboration with Caputo, the Mill of Naples. Thanks to Molino Caputo, I learned how important it was knowing the details that lie behind and inside the ingredients and the best way to use them, apart from the knowledge of how to do my job well. After many years of doing this job, I realized that the secret is to never feel like you’ve arrived: day after day, I never lose an opportunity to learn something new, always approaching this job with the same enthusiasm as on the first day. In short, always new challenges». Your work experiences fundamental for your professional growth? «These were undoubtedly the years of growth in the Rossopomodoro group, all the experiences working alongside the chefs Antonio Sorrentino and Enzo De

Angelis, the many business trips abroad that I have made, the comparison with the world opens your mind, curiosity and desire to know everything have enriched my professional background. And then, as I said at the beginning of this interview, certainly the place I started from, the Da Gennaro pizzeria with my ancient and precious master Vincenzo Costa who literally trained me from scratch. Of course, my years at Molino Caputo were fundamental; knowing how flour is made for a pizza maker is absolutely a wealth». What did the award Caputo Trophy in 2013 mean for you? «Winning the Caputo trophy was a decisive moment in my life and my career, it completely turned it upside down. I started traveling, it gave me the opportunity to really bring pizza all over the world, well I would say a role that is not for everyone and I did it with great pride». What do you think about the foreign market? «The foreign market is absolutely growing, from Brazil to Australia everyone wants to learn how to prepare a good Neapolitan pizza and this makes us even more proud and really stimulates the market». What would you say to a young person who wants to do this job? «I would say not to be in a hurry, not to rush, to respect the times, to follow the whole path step by step and to always remain humble and always accept new challenges, because the future is always a challenge» Giuseppe ROTOLO


gliATTREZZIdelmestiere

How do you organize your tools?

Space optimization and guaranteed hygiene with shovel holders

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lacing the equipment on the ground is certainly not a good appearance for any pizzeria; often the oven is located right at the entrance to the room or in a passage position, clearly visible for the customer. These ways of managing the tools are dictated, on the one hand by the limited space available inside the pizzeria, on the other by the belief that the tools, being subjected to the high temperatures of the oven, are immune to bacterial proliferation. In fact, precisely because they come into contact with raw food, they should be kept safe from dirt to ensure that the customer complies with the hygiene and sanitation measures inside the premises. Keeping the work environment clean and tidy means that you can work more efficiently, faster, thus ensuring better customer service. Is it always possible? What to do if the space available in your pizzeria is reduced to a minimum? Gi.Metal, which has always been paying attention to the needs of pizza chefs, produces different types of shovel holders to adapt to the different environments available to the pizza chef. The Gi.Metal best seller for the organization of space is undoubtedly the blade holder with a marble base. It is the most

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AC-BS/1

PORTAPALE AUTOPORTANTE

AC-PPFD


PORTAPALE A MURO ACH-PP3

gliATTREZZIdelmestiere PORTAPALE E PORTAPALETTINI SINGOLI

AC-APT36 ACH-PP

complete tool for the equipment as it includes shovel, small spoon, brush and accessories; it is self-supporting, so it doesn’t need to be fixed to the wall or oven; it is versatile, because it can be moved as needed; the stainless-steel structure with marble base ensures high quality and maximum stability. It allows you to hold 2 shovels, a small spoon, a brush (AC-BS / 1) and two accessories (code AC-PPF), or up to 4 shovels, a small spoon, a brush (AC-BS) and two accessories (code. AC-PPFD). If space is limited and the oven has a wall next to it, Gi.Metal proposes wall-mounted shovel holders: ACAPM and ACH-PP allow you to hook the instruments with the head up; 2 shovels respectively the first and the set consisting of shovel, shovel and brush the second. On the contrary, AC-APL and ACH-PP3 allow you to hook the instruments from the handle, through the special eyelet, avoiding the risk of accidental burns. The material they are made of is anodized aluminum, for greater protection against oxidation. If the space does not provide for the presence of a free wall, you can opt for the individual shovel and pallet holders, entirely in stainless steel, they are robust and ensure optimal protection of the instrument gimetal.it

thanks to the silicone mat on the bottom (codes: ACAPT36 / 50 depending on the size of the blade; code AC-APT26 for small pallets of maximum 26 cm). A pizza chef who is attentive to the safety and cleanliness of his / her place can only keep the worktop tidy. In this regard Gi.Metal has designed the counter accessories holder (code AC-PAC - up to 9 accessories) which keeps your favorite tools perfectly stacked for preparation, cutting and serving.

PORTA ACCESSORI DA BANCO

The advantages of Gi.Metal blade holders • keep the working environment orderly and efficient • they help speed up the pizza chef’s work • contribute to compliance with hygiene/health regulations • they are solid, resistant, avoid involuntary burns

Point the QR Code and discover more 11


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Pizza “Autunno”

chef

by Luigi Buondonno

Procedimento

Ingredienti • Fior di latte by Euroiovine • Cream of Neapolitan pumpkin • Fresh “Porcino” mushrooms • Truffle strips • Tufts of ricotta in a towel flavored with pistachio from Bronte • Chopped pistachio • Crumbled of Neapolitan tarallo

: Prepare the Neapolitan pumpkin soup, cut the pumpkin in little cubes; in a pan sauté garlic, onion and chilli pepper, add a few ladles of boiling court-buillon from time to time if necessary. When cooked, add salt and basil and blend the mixture. Then pass everything through a sieve. Put the mixture obtained on the pizza base, add the mozzarella, some fresh “porcini” mushrooms and bake. In exit, add slices of truffle and sprigs of ricotta in a towel flavored with pistachio from Bronte, grains of pistachio and crumbled Neapolitan tarallo.

www.laciacolada.it



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