Fleurieu Living Magazine Winter 2020 by Fleurieu Living Pty Ltd

FLEURIEU LIVING T H E B E S T O F S O U T H A U S T R A L I A’ S F L E U R I E U P E N I N S U L A A N D K A N G A R O O I S L A N D

FLEURIEU LIVING MAGAZINE

Rustic industrial charm: Strathalbyn · The COVino diaries Wide open spaces · Change is local · Notes from the outback Hope and healing: Kangaroo Island www.fleurieuliving.com.au

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WINTER 2020

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Art · Design · Food · Wine · Fashion · Photography · People · Destinations

KANGAROO ISLAND I

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STAFF & CONTRIBUTORS

Key Personnel Petra de Mooy Petra has always loved, art, design, photography and words. Combining all of these into a career has been the fulfillment of these interests. She loves working with all of the creatives on the Fleurieu to showcase the best the region has to offer. Jason Porter Jason has worked as a graphic designer and creative director both locally and overseas for over thirty years. When not in the office, he can usually be found tweaking the crossover filters on his high end audio system. Kate Le Gallez Kate started her working life as a lawyer and consultant, before turning to a lifelong love of writing. She confesses to suffering a mild podcast addiction, which results in her overuse of the phrase ‘I was listening to a podcast … ’ as a conversation starter. Holly Wyatt A self-described ‘city-escapee,’ Holly moved to the Fleurieu chasing wide-open spaces and the spoils of semi-rural life. Those spoils include a good coffee in the morning, a glass of wine in the evening and a bountiful supply of inspiration for her art, music and work. Kirsty Gannon Setting up home on the Fleurieu only two years ago, Kirsty feels like she has found her place in the world. With a background in film and television production in Sydney, Kirsty now thrives on the ease and pace of semirural living. Lulu Our company mascot Lulu started appearing in way too many of our Instagram posts – so now she has her own profile (sad, we know) where you can follow her charmed life. Search ‘@miss_majestica’ if you’re so inclined.

Featured Contributors Hayley Taylor Hayley is a freelance writer and budding journalist with her feet planted on the Fleurieu, the ideal place to be for someone equally pulled towards good wine and good waves. She’s a true environmentalist, but two years of acting in high school allow her to perform impartiality and polite conversation with those who don’t care. As often in an apron as with a pen, she also dabbles in illustration, poetry, and anything that gets the tastebuds going.

Christobel Kelly Christobel is a South Australian artist who has a lifelong attachment to the Fleurieu Peninsula. She lectures in art history at Flinders University and her artworks are held in the collections of the Art Gallery of South Australia, the University of Adelaide, the City of Onkaparinga and the Ballinglen Museum of Contemporary Art, Ireland. She is a fellow of the Ballinglen Arts Foundation, County Mayo, Republic of Ireland, and a contributor to Imprint, a quarterly journal of the Print Council of Australia.

Publisher Information Esther Thorn Esther recently swapped her comfortable life in Willunga for an outback adventure in one of the most remote places in Australia. The mother of four has had a career in journalism spanning more than twenty years. She has worked in radio, television and print and has been a regular writer for FLM for five years. Esther loves good stories, strong coffees and McLaren Vale wines. Follow her outback experiences on Facebook and Instagram.

Other contributing writers, photographers and stylists: Mel Amos, Poppy Fitzpatrick, Robert Geh, Gil Gordon-Smith, Lori-Ellen Grant, Nina Keath, Mark Laurie, Heidi Lewis, Helen Mouneimne, Liza Reynolds, Marcus Syvertsen and Corrina Wright.

PUBLISHER Fleurieu Living Magazine is published four times a year by Fleurieu Living Pty Ltd. ISSN 2200-4033 PUBLISHING EDITOR AND MANAGING DIRECTOR Petra de Mooy petra@fleurieuliving.com.au EDITOR Kate Le Gallez ADVERTISING SALES Holly Wyatt holly@fleurieuliving.com.au Kirsty Gannon kirsty@fleurieuliving.com.au GRAPHIC DESIGNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jason Porter jason@fleurieuliving.com.au PRINTER Graphic Print Group DISTRIBUTION Integrated Publication Solutions SUBSCRIPTIONS Print: isubscribe.com.au Digital: zinio.com ALL ENQUIRIES Petra de Mooy petra@fleurieuliving.com.au POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 111, Aldinga, South Australia 5173. ONLINE fleurieuliving.com.au facebook.com/FleurieuLivingMagazine instagram.com/fleurieulivingmagazine/ COPYRIGHT All content copyright Fleurieu Living Magazine Pty Ltd unless otherwise stated. While Fleurieu Living Magazine takes every care to ensure the accuracy of information in this publication, the publisher accepts no liability for errors in editorial or advertising copy. The views of the contributors are not necessarily endorsed by Fleurieu Living Magazine. Printed on paper from well managed forests and controlled sources using environmentally friendly vegetable-based inks.

THIS ISSUE

Contents

16 FEATURED HOME Rustic industrial charm: Strathalbyn. FRONT COVER PHOTO by Robert Geh.

FEATURED ART COLLABORATION Zinc: Rosina Possingham and Brianna Speight.Â

FOOD & WINE

PENINSULA PEOPLE

54 Food & wine matching: Roman style carbonara with Lake Breeze Bernoota

76 Trailblazers: Russell Jeavons and Katrina Kytka

52 Producer profile: Richard Casley-Smith of Bull Creek Organics

24 Trailblazer: Joff Chappel 58 Ask a local

36 The sharing table: A generous feast created by Helen Mouneimne

ART & DESIGN 56 A yarn pulled by passion: The Woollen Earth 84 So much more: Fashion / photography / collaboration 44 Winter landscape: Horace Trenerry 28 Billy Goat Brick & Stone: A timeless marriage of art and utility

DESTINATION FEATURE Notes from the outback.

PANDEMIC FEATURE The COVino diaries.

DESTINATION FEATURE Hope and healing: Kangaroo Island.

BOOKS & WORDS

LIVING GREEN

BEING SOCIAL

90 Great winter reads by Mark Laurie featuring Thea Astley

62 Change is local: Meet some local change makers 68 Wide open spaces

95 FLM sees who was out and about at: · Temperance Precinct launch · FLM autumn issue launch at Pearl Aldinga

HEALTH & WELLBEING 22 The cult of busy-ness

WEDDINGS

07 Make a date with nature

92 Ash and James Irwin married on 14 March 2020 at Woodburn Homestead

EVENTS 74

Fleurieu Classic: Christies to Hobart Sailing Challenge February 29 – March 1

ACKNOWLEDGES

Our advertising partners A special thanks to the advertising partners that have made a long-term commitment to FLM. GOLD PARTNERS

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pril (Bookings 03 9005 7750) Road, Goolwa on 8 and 9 April otographic Exhibition at olwa from 9 to 23 April Mike - Kids Magic ary Hall, Goolwa on 17 April oden Boat Festival at the on 22 and 23 April hael Griffiths at Centenary l

Silent Disco 4 Kids Party at Strathalbyn Library Community Centre on 27 April *Sista Girl, at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 5 May Our Mob 2015, Aboriginal arts at Signal Point Gallery, Goolwa from 5 May to 11 June Good Things Small Packages, at South Coast Regional Art Centre, Goolwa from 5 May to 18 June *Goodbye Yellow Brick Road - The Elton John Tribute Show at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 20 May * tickets/ booking required

call Councilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Visitor Information Centre on 1300 466 592. Alexandrina Council a copy online for more events in the region, www.alexandrina.sa.gov.au

Above: Walk the picturesque pathways around The Bluff and along Petrel Cove.

Make a date with nature Time seemed to assume an entirely different character in autumn 2020. For the purposes of these pages, which usually list the events for the upcoming season, this strange phenomenon posed a very mundane problem – the cancellation of most events left these pages empty. While we hope to return to the usual programming of events and festivals in spring, for this issue we’re doing something a little different. We asked some of our friends and colleagues to share their favourite ‘dates with nature.’ It’s a chance to hang on to that slower pace of life, enjoy the newly greened landscape, fresh from autumn rains, and explore the many natural assets the region has to offer. Follow it up with a well deserved stop at one of the fantastic cafes or bakeries or perhaps dine-in – at a responsible distance of course. FAMILY FRIENDLY FISHING: Willunga Esther Thorn A short and pleasant walk down a gumtree-studded slope to the creek at the bottom of Willunga’s old Court House grounds.

summit to catch a romantic sunset. Pat yourself on the back; you’ve done well. If you can see the festoon lights switched on at Pearl, pop in and grab something to go. Only for you – no sharing. NEW MEMORIES, OLD FAVOURITES: Port Elliot and surrounds Kirsty Gannon Horseshoe Bay, The Bluff, Petrel Cove, Waitpinga. It’s a greatest hits list of long lost summers and family holidays. But when did you last stop to appreciate them? Pedal a bike or don your sneakers for a jog from the Flying Fish Cafe in Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot, to Middleton and back. The waft of freshly brewed coffee or the crackle of chips hitting hot oil will spur the legs on the home stretch. Race the kids to the top of The Bluff, or for added strength-training, strap a small one onto your back. The views are drop dead, and the kids will feel like they’re on top of the world.

Bring a picnic rug, some refreshments, sticks, old wool and plenty of imagination as you let the kids loose for a fishing experience they’ll never forget.

Back at sea level, Petrel Cove’s Jurassic-esque rocks will entrance the budding paleontologist, while Waitpinga awaits along the Heysen Trail. New memories will build on the old.

The only thing you’re likely to catch is a bit of peace and quiet as the children splash in the water trying to find ‘The Big One’.

MEDITATE IN NATURE: Onkaparinga Gorge hike Meg Carr and baby Odie A dirt trail tracks mellow switchbacks down to the belly of the gorge. There, the tannic water of the Onkaparinga River can be so calm and silent it seems to be barely flowing at all. Walking along the bank of the river the trail quickly becomes rocky, overgrown, elusive.

A cautionary note: if the kids are too quiet it probably means one of them has fallen in the deep pool and you may have to rouse yourself at this point. Alternatively, dress them in life jackets and bring headphones for yourself. ROMANTIC DATE FOR ONE: Aldinga Scrub Poppy Fitzpatrick Take some you-time to explore the smooth, undulating dunes of the Aldinga Scrub. The only curious onlookers you’ll face will likely hop away before you can say the words ‘socially distanced’. Find the boardwalk near the Aldinga Beach ramp and climb the short

The rhythmic beat of hiking poles accompanies us, their steady support preventing more than one slip and slide into stagnant rock pools. Eyes up, we’re rewarded with beautiful views of the red gorge rising steeply from the waters below. The river teeming with life: fish, frogs, snakes. Birds roosting in towering pink gums. Nature can offer a soothing balm for the heart; respite from daily updates and statistics. And baby Odie, lulled by birdsong, dozes. A little zen buddha in the landscape. 7

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Welcome to FLM From the FLM team On March 10 as we celebrated the release of the autumn issue at the stunning location that is Pearl Aldinga, the COVID crisis was just a niggling concern. Our speech that night reflected on Kangaroo Island after the bushfires and how the community had rallied together. Within a week or so, businesses across the state began to close and events were cancelled. Like many, we came to a bit of a standstill while we grappled with what to do and how we could contribute. We spent time on the road checking in with business owners and friends to see how they were coping. It was heartening to hear a common sentiment expressed – ‘we’re so lucky to live here.’ We were in a heady state and kept asking ourselves, how do we move forward sensitively and with the right tone? We began to map out a new path and we would like to personally thank Liza Reynolds, Holly Wyatt, Kate Le Gallez and Kirsty Gannon

for helping us through. A few of our long time writers also put their hands up to help create meaningful content. Get out the tissues. We’re grateful too for the support of our long time friends at Mildura Living Magazine, who we bounced ideas around with during week two of the lockdown. We loved the activation of the foreshore at Aldinga close to home and were energised by some stunning autumn weather. As the winter chills crept in, we began to see the light at the end of the tunnel and we are beyond thrilled with the outcome that this adversity has created in terms of the content within these pages. We hope you enjoy. The FLM Team

Above: Take a stroll along the Wetlands Loop Trail, Onkaparinga River this winter. (There were plenty of kangaroos on the trail when this photo was taken!) 9

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Zinc Story by Petra de Mooy.

All images of the artwork courtesy of the artists. Original works are archival pigment prints. Page left: ‘Above’ (throwaway unicorn), 2020, 26 x 21cm. Top image: ‘Below’ (suspended states), 2020, 60 x 90cm. Bottom left: ‘Below’ (the surface), 2020, 60 x 90cm. Right: ‘Below’ (it’s fine), 2020, 60 x 90cm.

Timing is so often everything. When artists Brianna Speight (Bri) and Rosina Possingham (Pos) decided they wanted to collaborate, the timing felt right. An advertised residency at Sauerbier House came at just the right time to provide the two artists with the space, and yes, the time, to sink into the collaborative experience within and alongside their busy lives. But in 2020, time has stretched and contracted in unusual ways. They commenced their residency as Kangaroo Island burned and ended it as the world locked down. In between, they created a series of

startlingly vibrant images that explore the everyday activities of a visit to the beach through a lens of visibility, protection and heat. Sauerbier House sits at the mouth of the Onkaparinga River – a place of recreation with nearby sand dunes, an estuary, a jetty, a reef, but also with the richness of a place steeped in history. It spoke to the two ‘water girls’ and their personal connections to the sea, Bri through growing up at Brighton near the beach and Pos through a lifelong love of swimming and finding the beach and the ocean a place of fun, contemplation and rejuvenation. ‘We were wanting to look at water and figures in water, and fluidity and that was the response we were envisioning for the work,’ says Pos. Bri and Pos had been distant admirers of each others’ work before they met, but admiration isn’t the soul ingredient in the often challenging matrix of a collaborative partnership. In their earliest conversations though, they found commonality in the ideas they > 13

Top image: ‘Below (in-between)’, 2020, 60 x 90cm. Bottom left: ‘Below (where to from here)’, 2020, 60 x 90cm. Bottom right: Brianna Speight with Rosina Possingham. Photo by Jason Porter.

interrogate through their art, particularly how the female body is represented in the context of the landscape and a questioning of the images that are often presented of women’s bodies. Brianna describes her photographic work as translating her concerns around female subjectivity through photographs. ‘I look at objects and materials and how I can translate my ideas through those objects,’ and though the subject matter is serious the work is playful and sculptural. She elaborates, ‘If there is an issue I feel uncomfortable about – through making and by rearranging objects I can tease out how I feel about something as a way to feel empowered by an idea or understand something a bit more.’ When they arrived at Sauerbier these two disciplined practitioners had a plan ready to go. ‘We’d mapped out the time into month one, two and three: first one being research and experimentation, second one being more play and experimentation and starting to produce and the third month being to create the work, refine and do production for the exhibition and plan our presentation,’ Pos explains. Against the background of all their planning and creation, the bushfires across Australia were having a devastating impact. The two had arrived at the residency halfway through January and were sitting on the beach. ‘You could see the fires on Kangaroo Island and there was a thick smoke haze,’ recalls Bri. ‘We were feeling a bit melancholic,’ adds Pos. The two chatted about how they could create in the landscape but also be sensitive to the climate they were working in, agreeing they weren’t comfortable making work that was directly responsive to the fires. They started to observe that everything was solemn and sad but people were still going to the beach. The area was full of activity with school groups, kayaking, snorkelling, swimming. A theme began 14

to emerge that gathered in the joy of recreation but also concerns over danger, safety and protection. This suggested a colour palette that tended towards the bright and neon, colours that signal fun but also warning. From there came a concept of safety with hats, rashies, goggles, wetsuits, lifejackets. ‘We put a call out for anybody who had old broken beach items to send them our way and we ended up getting piles of things by the door every day – neoprene, goggles and old flotation devices – heaps of them,’ says Bri. Armed with all of this gear they not only had the raw materials for their own work, but to create the community outreach aspect of their residency by offering art workshops for kids. ‘We pitched it to the kids that they had to make a beach suit for the year 3000 imagining what that would be like and how hot it would be. That was really fun,’ says Bri. As part of the residency they also had the use of an underwater camera and with some grant money they commissioned a backdrop they hoped to use in a traditional sense, but using it in their underwater location proved challenging. They invited friends to get involved and help out as models, to steady the rigging and to help capture the images they envisioned. What evolved is a series of brightly coloured photographs depicting a fantastically colourful underwater world with invented futuristic safety gear. And then, just as the exhibition was about to open the COVID restrictions were announced and the event was cancelled. Yet, when I happened to meet Bri and Pos they were still full of the energy and optimism that characterises the images they created together. We are honoured to present part of their work here.

Rustic industrial charm Story by Petra de Mooy. Photography by Robert Geh. Styling by Liza Reynolds.

Page left: The new ‘black block’ extension reveals a warm interior. Above: The expertly crafted kitchen by SpaceCraft is the heart of the home and where the couple spend most of their time.

The township of Strathalbyn is well recognised for its historical significance. Beautiful stonework on grand facades shielded by generously proportioned return bullnose verandahs define many of the early homes dotted throughout the town. Owing to strict heritage guidelines these historic buildings, both residential and commercial, have been proudly preserved. With the Angas River meandering through a large parkland in the centre of town there is a unique charm to the scale and lay of the land. All of this formed part of the attraction for Terence (Terry) and Gerardine (Gerry) Cousins when they decided to buy and settle in ‘Strath’. Terry and Gerry lived in South Australia until a career move to Melbourne in 1992 turned into twenty-four years, with Terry working his way through the ranks in the fast-moving world of internet technologies. As time passed, the couple’s three children moved out of home and Terry and Gerry started to think about their own next move, with plans to downscale and a desire to return to SA. ‘We’d

been holidaying in Goolwa and did a day trip around to all of these beautiful little towns,’ says Gerry. ‘Driving through Strath, we saw this beautiful old house for sale and it really made us get a move-on to finish getting our house ready for sale in Melbourne. It happened very quickly,’ she continues. ‘Basically our house there sold at auction on the 19th of December and we put an offer on this on the 21st of December.’ They took ownership in April 2016. Their ‘beautiful old house’ was built in 1909 by the Johnstons – the original owners of the Laucke Flour Mill and a significant family in the early days of the township. The couple loved the character of the historic property while its regional location was an appealing > 17

Page left top: The return bullnose verandah and sandstone facade beautifully crafted brick quoining. Bottom left: The clean minimal bathroom features a freestanding bath and beautiful wood, white and metal vanity by SpaceCraft. Right: Old and new are mixed and matched to create a lovely still life photo op. This page: The lounge is warm, filled with natural materials, art and objects personal to the owners.

counter to big city living. The home would have been very grand for its time and its curb appeal is easy to appreciate. The large entryway opens to a high-ceilinged hall graced with an archway, beautiful timber pillars and fretwork. Extra-tall skirting boards, plasterwork details and timber sash windows are standard throughout. Six sets of French doors form separate entrances from the verandah to each generously proportioned room. A restored rustic cellar provides a great place to store wine and preserves. While the period details recalled its original glory, very little had otherwise been done to the house in a long time and it offered something of a clean slate. And so, after living in the house for a time, Gerry and Terry decided to renovate. Their wish list included a walk-in robe, ensuite, refreshed main bathroom and a laundry located next to a new super functional kitchen space to replace the outdated original. After much thought, their renovation plans expanded to include an

extension and they committed to engaging as many local trades as possible to realise their plans. As luck would have it, they had the resources they needed close at hand in their neighbours. On one side lives building designer Gaetane Zufferey of Tailored Form and on the other, bespoke kitchen manufacturers Ellen and Nathan Wundersitz of SpaceCraft Joinery. Neighbours and renovations can sometimes make for uncomfortable bedfellows, but this trio found the opposite. Gerry and Terry found great rapport with Gaetane, Ellen and Nathan and looked no further for their design advice. The couple had looked at some of Gaetane’s plans for another project and they liked how she rationalised her designs. After working through a few sketch concepts, Gaetane identified that a clear delineation between old and new would be the most sympathetic solution to retaining the integrity of the original home. ‘That old wraparound verandah was so special that having the ‘link’ [a 1.2 metre > 19

This page: The vintage bed, neutral bedding, wooden night tables and small collectables all make for a very relaxing vibe.

breezeway] helped keep the original building more intact,’ she explains. Gaetane also carefully considered the scale of the rooms and material selections. The use of recycled red brick on the interior creates a connection to the original quoin brickwork around the windows of the old house, while vertical cladding on the outside of the new addition subtly matches the metal corrugation on the original roof. Gerry has also been working to marry together the new with the old, painstakingly restoring and repainting the twenty verandah posts, the change from white to black creating a visual connection to the new ‘black block’ extension.

Smith Builders were hired to do the construction and the couple were very impressed with all of the trades who helped them through the process. The SpaceCraft team did a superb job on the joinery in both the new ensuite and renovated bathroom of the original house, as well as the new ‘heart of the home’ kitchen, pantry and laundry in the extension. ‘They just listened and came up with different ideas – they just seemed to really understand what we wanted and the kitchen just works so well,’ says Terry. Gerry concurs, ‘We’ve been in the extension for eighteen months and we still talk about how much we love working in the kitchen.’ ‘It just flows,’ says Terry. Practical polished concrete floors with recycled red brick walls are married

Top: The black box extension is married up to the old home via a breezeway. Bottom left: Small collections and details make the home personal and inviting. Bottom right: A protected courtyard area is great for a morning cuppa or a happy hour canapé and drink.

with warm grey cabinets, wormy chestnut wood accents and Gerry’s pick: a unique tiled benchtop. ‘People said I was crazy to want a tiled benchtop but now that it’s done they love it,’ she says. ‘We wanted to walk in from outside undercover right into the pantry too,’ says Terry. The large pantry houses the fridge, a large benchtop and an appliance garage so that the main kitchen remains free of visual clutter. Keen entertainers, the kitchen space needed to be big enough to host a crowd and the long benchtop has ended up becoming a focal point and gathering area for guests. ‘I can put the food out on the dining table but people always seem to gravitate back

to the bench space,’ says Gerry. And Terry and Gerry have found more than enough new friends to share their space with, including their neighbours the Zuffereys and the Wundersitz family who helped them realise their vision. Terry and Gerry feel really lucky saying: ‘We didn’t really know Strath but we knew the town had a lovely feel. Now that we actually live here – it has been a bit of a surprise to us what a wonderful place it is. The community is lovely, we can walk to absolutely everything and don’t really need to get in the car.’ It seems their intuition was right and they’ve found both a beautiful house and a wonderful community with whom to share their lovely space. 21

HEALTH & WELLBEING

The cult of busy-ness Story by Lori-Ellen Grant.

Families come in all shapes and sizes, all with their unique challenges. There’s single-parent households and singlechild households. Families with many children and families with no children. Some manage disabilities, others mental wellbeing. Then there’s the household pets, chickens, gardens, after-school activities and the myriad needs of children, ranging from nappies to reassurance to discipline.

closer to family and time to just be – without doing – something I’ve always found challenging. There’s also time for the things that have been avoided or ignored in relationships, even when we are working and living as our best selves, to arise.

In our house we have four children ranging from early teenager to infant. We also both work from home in a recently completed extension where we run a thriving acupuncture and Chinese medicine practice. Until the COVID-19 outbreak, we had managed all this in a kind of challenging equilibrium.

What an opportunity! And now I am renewed to re-enter my ‘normal’ life, albeit a refreshed vision of my life, and the possibilities present. This shedding, falling away, stripping back is like the season of winter. A going inwards until the return of the sun. Nourishing the soil by understanding what is of value and returning to the soil the things that aren’t. Observing afresh what is at the core of our business, family, and life has allowed us to simplify and feel clear. I feel fortunate that I like what is left.

We find our work incredibly fulfilling, but in the wake of the pandemic which has unfolded over the last few months, we’ve slowed down. Finding ourselves in the same place at the same time, we’ve unearthed new space in our lives. A different kind of space, but one that still has much domesticity to attend to. In the clearing that has appeared as our lives have slowed, there’s an opportunity to see into ourselves; our habits, our fears, our assumptions, and the fabric of our lives. When the cult of busy-ness is gone, what’s left can be revealing. It’s been so long since I had time to sink into my life and think about my values and how I am in the world. Who I am, what that means and how I live. It’s like being in my twenties again, but with twenty years of life experience behind me. There’s been time to enjoy, time to be 22

I notice all the people I haven’t been able to see and how I value my relationships with them more than I realised. I see what it means to live in a community, where people offer of themselves to others, where people see a need and make it happen. People offer food, car rides, plants, phone calls. Loneliness is acknowledged. People learn new ways to connect, new ways to enjoy, new ways to work. We adapt. There’s been a tightening of our family bond with all the time spent together doing simple things: cooking, walking, drawing, playing games, laughing. The pull to go, to do, to see, to accomplish, to make was quiet for a time.

How time poor we must have been, I say, reflecting on the months that have come before. Now there’s time for gardens, homemade food, quality time, walks. All so good for our health, and has anyone ever seen so many people out walking? We did these things before, but always with a sense of urgency in the background. When I ask people how they are lately, they don’t just say ‘I’ve been busy.’ The simple things have yielded so much pleasure and reflection. And so much sourdough bread. ‘Be content with what you have; rejoice in the way things are. When you realise there is nothing lacking, the whole world belongs to you.’ Lao Tzu

Vale Joff Chappel Story by Kate Le Gallez. Photography by Josh Geelen.

Joff Chappel’s soul might have been in Adelaide’s East End, but his heart was in Aldinga. The iconic co-owner of the Miss Gladys Sym Choon boutiques in Adelaide and their Fleurieu sibling, Miss Gladys on Sea, passed away on April 4, 2020 after a long illness. Joff’s death came just over a month after the official opening of Aldinga’s The Temperance Precinct, a project that Joff and his partner Razak Mohammed, together with David and Alison Smallacombe, had passionately pursued. ‘The end result is certainly something he was proud of and the community is proud of,’ says Joff’s longtime business manager and friend, Michele Bowler. The Precinct is just the latest manifestation of the creativity, energy and adventurous spirit that were seeded in Joff from a very early age. Son of the renowned South Australian architect John S Chappel, Joff was drawn to Adelaide’s artistic community in the East End. ‘Razak was reminding me that as a school boy, Joff would actually walk through Rundle Street and back then it was fishing tackle and potato markets and that sort of thing,’ says Michele. ‘Back then [he] used to make leather bangles and things like that out of old leather sandals ... so he just always had a flair for design.’ By the eighties and nineties, Joff and Razak were firmly ensconced in the East End, mixing with artists like Stephen Bowers, Annabel Collett and Nick Bean. Razak, passing on his memories of Joff via Michele, recalls this as a time when their ‘whole existence was around friendship and a supportive community.’ Together, Joff and Razak took over the Miss Gladys Sym Choon store at 235a Rundle Street in 1985. The store had been first opened in 1928 by Gladys herself, who, at age 16, was the first woman to incorporate a business in South Australia. It wasn’t just the name that lived on through the store under Joff and Razak’s carriage, but also the championing of young, enterprising talent. ‘Joff was always so concerned with the wellbeing of young ones and tried to promote their business and was a great mentor,’ says Razak. For Michele, generosity was one of the defining characteristics that made Joff, Joff. ‘Nothing was ever too much trouble,’ she says. Even as his illness progressed, ‘he would always give of himself.’ His business philosophy also came from a place of generosity. Boutique staff were always encouraged to help customers be true to their personal style rather than cleaving to passing trends. For Joff it was not about making a sale but gaining a customer. Joff’s connection to the Fleurieu started not through fashion but through real estate. After accompanying his architect father and brother Simon on a number of jobs in the region, Joff was entranced

by Port Willunga. He and Razak began spending their weekends there and over a period of twenty years bought, renovated and sold a number of houses in the area. Things changed in 2014 when the original Miss Gladys Sym Choon building on Rundle Street was put up for sale for the first time in one hundred years – it was an unmissable opportunity for Joff and Razak, but it meant selling their Port Willunga weekend home. Serendipitously, the sale was brokered by David Smallacombe, who recognised that Joff and Razak would miss heading south on their weekends and offered them his newly vacated office in the old temperance building in Aldinga. It was a basic abode with just a bathroom, shower and serviceable bedroom – Joff and Razak added a rudimentary kitchen. Over the following years, this move would not only spawn Miss Gladys on Sea but would play an important part in the revitalisation of Old Coach Road. It started with just a couple of racks of clothes. Joff and Razak had been in the temperance building barely a fortnight, but it was the height of summer and with the bakery across the road, there were people everywhere. ‘So they just started every Friday night dragging a few racks of stock down and putting them on the front balcony and having a little pop up shop,’ says Michele. ‘Then one car wasn’t enough. So instead of a couple of racks it was six racks and a table.’ Soon, they were moving out and converting the bathroom into a shop floor area (the black and white bathroom wall tiles remain in situ) and Miss Gladys on Sea was born. Just as they did in the East End, Joff and Razak saw community as central to their personal and professional lives in Aldinga. Momentum was already building on Old Coach Road with Maxwell’s Grocery and Homegrain Bakery reinvigorating the strip. In the run-down condition of the temperance building and grounds, Joff saw an opportunity to expand the community further and approached David Smallacombe about investing in the property. This partnership made The Temperance Precinct possible, but it was Joff’s initial vision, his persistence in negotiating with council and his dedication to bringing the right mix of businesses together which defines the precinct today. Joff’s passing meant he didn’t have the opportunity to see his grand vision for the area fully realised. He hoped to create the foundations for an artist community reminiscent of the East End experience, with ‘shop houses’ – similar to the Rundle Street terraces – enabling artists to have shop fronts at street level with accommodation above. It’s Razak’s hope that he can one day bring this vision to fruition. Joff expressly requested there be no long speeches to celebrate his life. There doesn’t need to be. The communities he helped create, both in Aldinga and in the East End, will speak of his spirit, creativity and inclusive nature loud and long into the future.

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A timeless marriage of art and utility Story by Petra de Mooy. Photography by Jason Porter.

Page left: The feature stone work on this Max Pritchard designed home in Inman Valley is a real standout. Above: Master mason Rohan Grantham in front of a huge thermal mass, internal feature wall of another new home build.

Early in the process of grappling with the COVID-19 lockdown I received a message on Instagram with a picture of our autumn issue attached and a note: ‘Got me a copy today. Who is the best person to talk to about being a partner? Always bought the mag. It’s time to contribute.’ This unexpected but welcome message came from second generation mason Rohan Grantham of Billy Goat Brick & Stone. I clicked over to his page and found a well of inspiration on his feed. One square captured the golden expanse of an in-process stone wall in the late afternoon light. In another, a large array of dusty hand tools told the backstory. It was clear that Rohan’s work was executed by a skilled craftsperson and I felt a bolt of excitement that went well beyond the prospect of a new partner. These are the moments that characterise what our magazine is all about: sharing the stories of the everyday artists in our community. Stonemasonry is one of the oldest professions in history and South Australia is rich in stone buildings constructed from the state’s abundant limestone, sandstone, bluestone and slate. In times past,

stone was seen as an inexpensive and readily available material, with buildings often built from unshaped limestone rubble quarried on site. This gave way to a more refined approach with many buildings having carefully shaped and carved facades with rougher side and rear walls. Now, the labour-intensive work required to quarry and build from stone has seen masonry shift from utilitarian to luxurious, with stone feature walls, fireplaces, retaining walls and fencing taking pride of place in many higher-end builds. Rohan grew up in the Adelaide Hills in an old stone cottage that his parents restored from a derelict state. ‘My dad went on to build (amongst lots of things) a garage true to the era of the house with big stone gable ends and recycled red brick quoins and arches. I still love driving past this property, admiring his work. Proud he did the old cottage justice,’ he says. Rohan was still a teenager when he started working with his dad on replicating old buildings using recycled red bricks and stone handpicked from a small local quarry. From these basic building methods and materials, Rohan learned the fundamental techniques that would become his trade, while honing his sense of scale, balance and proportion has elevated that trade into art. In his early twenties, Rohan struck out on his own after being asked to build a few houses. ‘Initially I felt a little out of my depth, but after > 29

Above left: This new chimney blends stone recovered from an old ruin with paddock stone from the site and Goolwa quarry quartzite. Top right: Early to midcentury hammers that Rohan feels lucky enough to be the current custodian of. Centre right: Rohan’s number plate tells his story. Bottom right: Splitting a piece of sedimentary sandstone on site.

a few jobs, more and more work came in,’ he says. Building on this confidence, Rohan started bringing friends into his projects: ‘I wanted to teach them the trade my dad had taught me,’ he continues. So began fifteen busy years, with Rohan managing a large crew and taking on a good share of the masonry requirements on the South Coast. The work was good, but he began to feel the need to scale back and focus on more boutique projects and ‘getting back to where I started,’ he says. It also meant Rohan could get back to working with a smaller crew and focusing on the camaraderie of working in a tight team. ‘Building a close relationship with builders and clients along the way and the bond you have with your mates working alongside you day in, day out is the best,’ he says. ‘Problem solving, teaching and supporting each other. Having a laugh while doing what you love.’ Rohan’s experience over the years has given him clarity around what Billy Goat Brick & Stone is about and he is now sought out for his skills and artistry. The work he’s doing now is varied in scale, materials and technique. We spent an afternoon with Rohan driving around Inman Valley, seemingly a hotbed of amazing building projects. One home at Mt Alma designed by architect Max Pritchard and built by 30

Dylan Gilbert has settled peacefully into the landscape. Owner Peter Bardy shares his appreciation of the feature wall on the west side of this beautiful building. ‘The joy of his work for us has been how he’s fashioned a strong ageless structure from the stone harvested from the earth below our house. The large wall stands as a buffer against the wild winds that emanate from the west as such walls have done since European colonisation. His choice of stone colour, size and shape was perfect. Every time you look at the walls you see something new.’ Rohan’s own satisfaction too comes from this timeless marriage of art and utility: ‘I think masonry would have to be one of the most rewarding trades – to start with a pile of rocks or bricks and some basic hand tools that haven’t changed in centuries – to then walk away at the end of the project with the creation of art and structure is something to be really proud of.’ His expansive stone creations often become a building’s most talked about feature. They’re there not simply for the enjoyment of the inhabitants today, but will stand the test of time ready for the day Rohan’s own son drives past, admiring the skills handed down from grandfather to father, father to son.

You will always have someone to talk to Adam is now back in the office and also available via email and phone, for safety and convenience. No matter where life takes you, Elders Insurance will be right there with you. We might not know what the future holds, but when you’re covered with us, you can feel safe knowing that you’re in good hands in those times of trouble. With Agents that live and work in their local communities, you’ll always speak to someone who truly understands your unique circumstances. Whether you just want to chat or you need to make a claim, we’ll always be there to help and provide a cover that’s just right for you. Whether it’s business insurance, farm insurance, personal insurance or even fleet and commercial motor insurance, we’ve got you covered. 11-13 Victoria St Victor Harbor SA 5211 e: insurancesouthernfleurieu@elders.com.au www.eldersinsurance.com.au/elders-insurance-southern-fleurieu

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Notes from the outback

Story by Esther Thorn. Photography by Channie Matcott.

Page left: Charlie soaking up the Oodnadatta sunset. Above: Another spectacular sunset over the dam.

Long-time FLM writer Esther Thorn is currently living in Oodnadatta, where her husband is the town’s police officer. She reflects on living in one of the most remote places in Australia during a global pandemic. ‘DO NOT ENTER – 5 years imprisonment or a $63,000 fine’ said the sign posted at the entrance to Oodnadatta. It was 2am and we’d just made an 800 kilometre dash from Alice Springs back to our home in outback South Australia, as COVID-19 fear swept across the country. In the two weeks we’d been in the Red Centre, coronavirus had gone from being an unfamiliar word to saturating news bulletins, dominating social media feeds and blanketing the ABC News page. Our world was at once expanding and narrowing. We’d gone to Alice Springs in order for me to complete my final teaching practicum. This trip was supposed to be the last hoorah to a master’s degree that had been hard won; essays written while breastfeeding newborns, extensions begged for in desperate emails to tutors, placements interrupted by gastro outbreaks. You know the drill. But this was the sprint to the finish line. My husband Sam had taken time off from his job as the Oodnadatta police officer, three of our four children had been enrolled at the Alice Springs Steiner school and we were now somewhat uncomfortably ensconced in our camper trailer at the MacDonnell Range Holiday Park. All was going well. Then the Ruby Princess passengers disembarked and COVID-19 began its insidious spread through the cities. The swimming pool at the caravan park was taped off, communal pancake breakfasts were cancelled, student numbers at the school in which I was working rapidly dwindled and, finally, my placement was cancelled. Then Sam got the call telling him all police officers’ leave was revoked and we had to return to Oodnadatta. Our town, with its high Indigenous

population and geographical isolation (it’s a bit over a thousand kilometres from Adelaide) was in lockdown under the Biosecurity Act 2015. As the sign, illuminated by the headlights of our four-wheel drive on our return home spelled out, no one was to enter the town without quarantining for fourteen days. Sam, as the town’s only police officer, was exempt from quarantine, which left me home on my own with our children, aged between two and eight. In many ways it was a relief to be in self-isolation. I could relax my compulsive washing of the children’s hands and no longer had to constantly scream ‘Do not touch anything!’ (Only to turn around and see the two year old licking the floor of the caravan park toilets on one occasion.) I felt guilty watching livelihoods crumble on the small screen and seeing images of New York brought to its knees, while our lives really hadn’t changed greatly. While the rest of the world reeled under the new social restrictions, our social (and geographical) isolation had begun eight months earlier when we moved to Oodnadatta. We’d left our little slate cottage in Willunga in search of adventure and a simpler life in the desert. I wanted to work in Indigenous education and Sam was very willing to swap his police blues for the khaki uniform of an outback cop. We took the kids out of their beloved Willunga Waldorf School, re-homed our chooks and headed north. We were in good spirits until we left Coober Pedy and the enormity of the move, and the landscape, hit us. We felt like we’d landed on Mars; red gibber plains stretched in every direction as far as the eye could see. The only break in the landscape was the dirt road, pitted with bulldust holes and strewn with jagged rocks, waiting to pierce an unwary tyre. I often think back to that first drive; our enthusiasm posing for a family photo under the Oodnadatta Track sign, of the children’s pockets bulging with ‘precious’ rocks collected when we stopped to explore a creek line that provided short relief from the ‘Marscape’. I had just read Bruce Pascoe’s book Dark Emu and was full of ideals about what life in an Aboriginal town was going to be like. >

Top left: Cracked earth. Top right: The roadhouse. Bottom left: The kids take in an evening stroll. Bottom right: A thirsty rainbow bee-eater.

What we found, when we arrived in Oodnadatta, was a community that was all too familiar with another white copper and his family rolling into town, setting up home in the only house with a large fence around it and telling people how they should live, before packing up two years later and going back to the comforts of city life. No one was interested in my many views on the colonisation of Australia and the disempowerment of its First Peoples. They were all busy living their lives in the middle of the desert, as people had done for many thousands of years before we got there and would for many thousands of years after we left. Our arrival in Oodnadatta meant everything to us, but nothing to Oodnadatta. The kids took to life in the outback immediately. They kicked off their shoes, jumped on their bikes and rode off down dusty tracks. Sam too settled in; he had a role to fill and a job to do. But who was I in this town? I wasn’t a teacher (yet), I wasn’t one of the cattle station mums and I wasn’t a local. All the ties that had anchored me in Willunga had been cut loose and I was adrift on a sea of uncertainty. I longed for the green tapestry of the Willunga Hills, for coffee at Three Monkeys and pizza with friends at Russell’s. I missed the routine of the Willunga Farmers Market, dropping the kids off at school, writing for FLM and grocery shopping in McLaren Vale. Our food in Oodnadatta comes on a truck from Coober Pedy every Thursday. If the road’s bad the truck’s late. If it has rained then the truck doesn’t come and we drink powdered milk and eat baked beans. The only shops in town are the iconic Pink Roadhouse, where we pick up our post, and the general store, where we buy 34

things overlooked in our ‘bush order’. Soon after we arrived, the pub shut down. The Transcontinental Hotel does this periodically by all accounts, depending on the number of tourists passing through or simply whether there’s anyone with a ‘responsible person’ licence to sell alcohol. We were saddened when it closed this time. It’s a focal point for the community with walls steeped in history. You can still see a bullet hole above the bar from a 2001 police shooting and the roof has been held up with a temporary strut ever since someone drove into the front bar a couple of years ago. Oodnadatta has long been a place of beginnings and endings. The town made its way onto a map in 1890, as the northern terminus of the Central Australian Railway. It was also the starting point for the camel caravans laden with supplies for remote desert communities. When the railway closed in 1980 the community was told to leave, but they stood their ground and founded their own council, known as Dunjiba. Many current day community members are skilled visual artists, musicians and craftspeople, and all have a deep connection to their land. They have seen this country in all its cycles – dry dams and dying brumbies in fifty degree heat, downpours of rain, swarms of mosquitoes. The only constant is the flies. As our weeks in Oodnadatta rolled into months, my vision adjusted. I saw subtle shades of green, where previously I had only seen brown. I noticed wildflowers growing against all the odds and heard birdsong in the trees. I watched a pair of Willie Wagtails build a nest in a Mulga tree and hatch a chick that was almost as demanding as my two year old. Slowly I started to pay attention to the small things,

Top: A small dust storm breaks up the clear blue sky. Bottom: Cockatoos settle for the night in the silhouette of an enormous moon.

and it was only then that I was rewarded with a smile from a local and snippets of songlines and stories. I softened and my surroundings softened with me. Still, I was looking forward to our trip to Alice Springs. I was eager for a hairdresser and takeaway coffee, a visit to a bookstore and a new pair of shoes. I wanted the kids to be back in the Waldorf system doing morning circle and drawing with Stockmar crayons. Alice Springs is a long way from Willunga, but it seemed somehow like a step closer to home. So when the coronavirus outbreak cut short our trip, it was with disappointment that we packed up the camper trailer and started the long journey back to Oodnadatta. The children were cranky and tired, with infected eyes from fly bites, and I was anxious about the unfolding pandemic and how the world was dealing with such an unprecedented event. Whenever we came into phone range on the journey, I would obsessively scroll news sites searching for the latest COVID-19 death toll. At the Northern Territory border we passed a stop point with army-style tents set up and police on round-the-clock duty. They waved us through, our check-point would be at Marla. When we arrived there it was a bit of an anticlimax. We wrote down our address, showed our driver’s licences and were told the kids and I would have to quarantine once we got home, which we were happy to do. At first quarantine was kind of fun. I homeschooled the children, they called me Miss Esther, we planted a herb garden, stuck an avocado seed in water, I sought inspiration from Instagram. But as the days

wore on, my intake of wine steadily increased and my patience rapidly decreased. And then it rained and rained. And rained. We had 56 millimetres of rain in one day. The bone-dry dam filled in a matter of hours and the waterhole overflowed cutting the town off completely. Parched creek beds turned into flowing rivers. Quarantined behind our high fence, we could only see glimpses of the water from our front yard and by looking at photos on Sam’s phone. But the day after our quarantine ended and not one of us had so much as a sniffle, we walked down to the dam and found a landscape transformed. The red gibber plains had turned into a seemingly endless meadow of wildflowers. Delicate daisies, lilies, orchids and grasses rippled before us. Creek beds were swarming with tadpoles, frogs and strange prehistoric looking creatures I would later find out are Shield Shrimp. Butterflies and dragonflies zigzagged around us with every step we took. This was not a dry, barren landscape, it was teeming with life. I want to write something neat and tidy, comparing the transformation of Oodnadatta during our time in self isolation to the transformation I hope to see in a post COVID-19 world, but I’m not sure life works like that. Nothing is that clean cut. But maybe if we use this pause in our busy lives to let our eyes adjust, like I have been trying to do since we arrived in Oodnadatta, maybe then we will start to see a different world. In the words of Arundhati Roy ‘Another world is not only possible, she is on her way. On a quiet day, I can hear her breathing.’

FOOD & WINE

The sharing table Photography by Heidi Lewis. Styling by Marcus Syvertsen.

Above: Pulled beef ragu with polenta chips and steamed greens dressed with blood orange Agrumato. 36

We asked Helen Mouneimne from The Greek Vegetarian to help us gather together a winter-warming feast inspired by the spirit of sharing. The Market Precinct at Colonnades provided a wonderful all-inclusive shopping experience with food from Barossa Fine Foods, Charlesworth Nuts, Go Vita and Bakers Delight.

Above: Orange and almond frangipane tart with a morello cherry and balsamic compote. 37

RETAIL THERAPY

The perfect platter Photography by Jason Porter. Styling by Liza Reynolds.

Above: Food procured from The Market Precinct at Vicinity Colonnades. Thank you to Barossa Fine Foods, Charlesworth Nuts, Go Vita and Bakers Delight. 38

As social isolation restrictions ease, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll all be able to partake in more social activities â&#x20AC;&#x201C; long tables, platters of delicious food, local wines ... and great friends. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s celebrate!

Colonnades Shopping Centre | Noarlunga @colonnadesshopping 39

The COVino diaries A story by Corrina Wright.

Page left: Corrina Wright at Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards. Photo courtesy of Wine Australia. Above: Socially distanced tractors between the shiraz and sangiovese blocks. Photo by Jason Porter. (Shot on Nicky Connolly’s drone!)

Diary writing has a long history in my family. We have my great-grandmother’s diaries beginning in 1917, my grandmother’s from the 1930s, and my mum keeps one daily. Alas, I have not kept this tradition strong. Maybe it has something to do with my brother finding my diaries full of teenage angst and unrequited love in the eighties and teasing me mercilessly. This changed when I had an inkling that vintage 2020 was going to be one imprinted on our collective memories forever. So, I picked up a pen (metaphorically only – I went digital) and started doing a weekly diary as things got weird. 1-7 March 2020 Vermentino fermenting. Picking fiano, sagrantino, shiraz, tempranillo. Crops low due to bad set. Worried we won’t have enough shiraz. Mild weather. Strange to be picking sagrantino so early, but tannins and flavour are right. Hearing stories out of China from our importer Anson. Sounds like this coronavirus thing will have an impact on our export to China. Send a note to friends on WeChat, hoping they are all safe. One of our customers asked how he could help those impacted by the fires in the hills and makes a direct cash donation. Bloody legend. 8-14 March 2020 Shiraz picking ramps up. Plenty of ferments to look after. Brain working hard on pulling the vintage logistics puzzle together. Surf lifesaving carnival is cancelled due to coronavirus. Seems like an overreaction. Son is gutted, footy training provides welcome diversion. Celebrate International Women’s Day at the Adelaide Central Markets guest speaking with Kris Lloyd from Woodside Cheeses and Barbara Knoll from Barossa Fine Foods. Why is there panic buying of toilet paper?

15-21 March 2020 Homeless Grapes pick kicks off the week. Our community picks grapes for Hutt Street Centre, supporting Adelaide’s homeless. Massive week of shiraz intake. Harvester breakdown drama but only offline for twelve hours. Pick grenache and mataro. Pressing of reds ramping up. Loads of barrel work. COVID updates become daily norm. Upcoming events I was hosting interstate cancelled. Footy training cancelled. ‘Social distancing’ is implemented at cellar door. Couple of our pregnant cellar door staff elect to be taken off roster. Cancel our upcoming Porchetta Parties. Buying toilet paper has got silly, but the memes make me laugh. Went grocery shopping for the first time in three weeks. See the empty shelves with my own eyes and worry that I should be panicking more. Realise that the s**t has hit the COVID fan. 22-28 March 2020 Government announces stage one restrictions. No guarantee vintage is going to be allowed to continue. Restaurants are shut down. Nightmare. Close cellar door and stand down all our weekend staff. They are very understanding. I feel sick. Emergency board meeting to determine impact of losing export, restaurant and cellar door sales. A lot of handpicking planned for this week. Handpicking gangs are reduced as workers return home while they still can. > 41

Above: An excerpt from great-grandmother Dulcie’s diary.

All hands on deck to get the picks done. Winery team decides that we will isolate onsite to get the job done. Pack my swag. Eventually get confirmation of ‘essential service’ capacity. Relief. SA borders close and staff stuck in Victoria. Must ‘self-isolate’ for two weeks. Quickly get technology sorted so everyone can work from home. Busy out in the winery and vineyard in our biggest week of picking. Trying to concentrate on doing what I know while everything else is uncertain. Laugh when I read early diary entries and wish for the days I thought we were overreacting. Worried for my friends in Italy. Thankful that we can still harvest, our staff are understanding, and no one is ill. 29 March-4 April 2020 Picking grenache and cabernet. Winery packed after last week. Cellar doors banned from takeaway sales due to a cluster of cases in Barossa region. Hope we haven’t put our staff at risk. Start to hear stories of people that I know having COVID-19. ‘JobKeeper’ announced by the government, trying to get my head around what that means. Easter holiday plans cancelled. Delve into Great Gran’s diaries from 1918-1919 during the Spanish Flu epidemic to get some perspective. Turns out her brother was waiting to come home from WW1 when he succumbed to ‘enfluenza’. He was 24. Grateful that we have been safe so far. 5-11 April 2020 Cellar door still closed. So quiet. Homeschooling of son begins. Thankful for one hundred hectares to roam on his motorbike. Extra thankful not to have neighbours while he does trumpet practice. Ferments and pressing continues. Grateful that favourite local restaurants have opened for takeaways. Last pick on Easter Thursday. No end of vintage party makes the troops a bit grumpy. My calendar has been wiped clean. Looks like international travel won’t resume until 2021. Worried for USA and UK friends. Son turns ten on Good Friday. Family organise a drive-by birthday party featuring tractors, motorbikes, four-wheelers, trucks and cars decorated with streamers, 42

lots of beeping and yelling. He tells me it is his best birthday ever. Older daughter cooking, cleaning and babysitting instead of travelling overseas on a gap year. Full COVID measures for the vineyard team. Each have their own tractor and have gone to the extreme of having their own toilets. Vineyard manager drew the short straw and now shares the old long drop with the spiders. Marketing now about ramping up online promotion, creating lots of video content. Daily COVID curves, Zoom meetings, cash flow and staffing schedule updates. Is this the new normal? 12-18 April 2020 Very very quiet Easter. Usually our busiest weekend in cellar door. Cooked, cleaned, gardened, visited ferments. Hair not at best. Worked out we qualify for JobKeeper. Happy for our staff but sad our turnover is reduced. Tried working from home. Failed. Energy levels suffering from lack of adrenalin now that picking is finished. Leaning on fellow family business owners and friends to make sense of the weird. Great Gran’s diary tells of the Spanish Flu locking down NSW, Victoria and notes the first death in the region in February 1919. 19-25 April 2020 Prepping whites for bottling. Reds all in barrel. Big tasting of all the 2020 batches. Very happy in the end that the wines haven’t suffered while focus was demanded in so many other areas of life. Small pat on back. Cellar door still closed. Staff on reduced hours. Kids still at home. South Australia looks to be ‘flattening the curve’. In her diary Great Gran discusses the terrible losses, but quickly goes back to recording the daily comings and goings of the family. The new normal establishes itself, and I go back to my prior nondiary keeping ways. We always say that each vintage wine in bottle is a physical representation of a particular time and place. 2020 will perhaps trigger a diary of emotions in each of us, and we will remember the roller coaster ride and reminisce while we enjoy the fruits of the wine producers’ labour.

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Above: Detail of ‘Winter landscape’, 1940, Aldinga, South Australia, oil on canvas laid on composition board; Elder Bequest Fund 1940, Art Gallery of South Australia, Adelaide.

Winter landscape Story by Christobel Kelly.

There’s a particular painting in the collection of the Art Gallery of South Australia that I return to, a work by the South Australian artist Horace Trenerry (1899–1958). The subject is the back road between Aldinga and Maslin Beach. When I was growing up in the tiny town of Aldinga, this road was almost impassable in winter. Pot-holed and slewed with mud, it sat under those flat-bottomed clouds that Trenerry suspended in the winter blue.

Above: Detail of ‘Port Willunga’, c.1934, Port Willunga, South Australia, oil on canvas; South Australian Government Grant 1937, Art Gallery of South Australia, Adelaide.

How do I know the work titled Winter Landscape (1940) is that particular back road? Well, there are two reasons: the first is the recognisable bright patch of yellow ochre on the left. The second is because I asked my father about this painting when he was in his eighties. My father, Paul Kelly – maker of giant lobsters – had known Trenerry when the artist was in his declining years. At that time, my father was a young man, fresh out of art school, and Trenerry was ill and dispirited. For a long time, I had quizzed my father about Trenerry, but somehow I had not known the right questions to ask. This changed in 2014, after I had decided to walk from Mylor in the Adelaide Hills to Second Valley on the Fleurieu Peninsula, a distance of about one hundred kilometres. What I had not anticipated about this walk was how the memory of place roars in to claim ownership over your psyche. All through the walk down the Willunga Hills and past the town of Aldinga, I called to mind those painters who had tethered this

landscape to their canvas; artists such as Dorrit Black, Ivor Hele and Jeffrey Smart. When I returned to my studio, I painted The House at Aldinga, remembering this as the first place where I’d seen the magic of how oil paints work, watching my father paint the view from the verandah. This area, which is a lure for artists, is also a ghosted place where the past and the present wash over each other. The works of artists such as Trenerry and Gwen Reynell sit over a deeper Aboriginal time. And that was how I began the conversation, from a curiosity in places like Port Willunga, where shipwrecks and ghost stories sit alongside Kaurna lore. I asked him about the freshwater spring at Port Willunga, formed according to Kaurna Dreaming from Tjilbruke’s tears of grief over the death of his nephew. But my father had first learned of the spring another way. ‘I’d seen it in one of Trenerry’s paintings of Port Willunga,’ he told me. ‘There was a painting he had done with the geese clustered around the spring, drinking.’ >

Above left: Christobel Kelly, The House at Aldinga, 2014, oil on canvas, 112 x 91cm. Top right: Pines, c.1942, Aldinga, South Australia, oil on canvas on cardboard; Bequest of Miss G.A. Hardy 1974, Art Gallery of South Australia, Adelaide. Below right: Horace Trennerry at work in his studio.

My father used to walk around the area and had sought out Trenerry who was living down south at the time. When I prompt him, he remembers the older artist fondly. ‘Wonderful, the most wonderful artist: kind man,’ he recalls. ‘Back south, he loved it there. You know all those paintings he did at that time, they were his best works.’ I thought of Trenerry’s painting, Port Willunga (1934), where he takes the viewer up onto the cliff looking down at the drowning place of the Star of Greece, as well as to the place where the spring appears. Trenerry was born in Adelaide in 1899, and was helped and encouraged by his family when he began his training as an artist. After night classes, sketching expeditions and joining artist groups, he was rewarded with a scholarship to the South Australian School of Arts and Crafts. His gifts were recognised early, and his solo exhibitions were sellouts. He was known as a charming raconteur and gifted pianist. Trenerry was also a workhorse, and his output prodigious. All this changed, however, after the Depression. His paintings failed to sell and he moved to Willunga, often reliant on the largesse of friends. Here in the south he came into his own. His fragile and refined sense of colour, as well as an unerring sense of design, were exquisitely balanced. We should not be fooled by Trenerry’s great gift for simplicity in works such as, Pines (1942), which is beguiling and quotidian at the same time. His ability to capture a sense of place and atmosphere remains an alchemical mystery. Towards the end of his life, Trenerry was ill at ease and unwell with an inherited disease. He was known to be ‘testy’. My father’s recollection 46

is more empathic. ‘Later when I left art school and I was working as a window dresser at Miller Andersons, I used to see him in Adelaide,’ he recalls before pausing. ‘You know, he was unwell, and people thought that he was drunk. He was just down at heel and I suppose that people thought that they could get his paintings for a song.’ Here’s the thing about Trenerry’s paintings around Aldinga, Maslin and Port Willunga: they open the door and usher us into a landscape that is rarefied and recognisable. And in doing so, their tenderness towards the Fleurieu Peninsula gestures to us. Perhaps when we regard his works we should bring to mind a kind of reciprocal notion of care of landscape, that bends towards long-standing Aboriginal practices. Perhaps in hindsight, we can re-read in that patch of yellow ochre, a drawing back to its original use by the Kaurna people as a means of telling stories into country, long before European displacement. Perhaps the other job of the works of Horace Trenerry, who is buried in West Terrace cemetery, is that they accompany us as companions against dissonance and despondency. As the philosopher Nicholaos Jones tells us, in times of consternation, the greatest gift we have is the ability to accompany one another, and Trenerry’s paintings have accompanied their viewers for much of the last century and into this one. And the geese that my father spoke about? No matter how much I searched, I never did find a record of a painting where they drank freshwater on the beach at Port Willunga.

Wander, discover and enjoy

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Hope and healing Story by Hayley Taylor.

Page left: Signs of life – epicormic growth on stringy bark eucalyptus. Photo courtesy of Nikki Redman Photos. This page: Shane Leahy – after the fires at Kangaroo Island Garlic. Photo by Brad Fleet courtesy of The Advertiser.

As the world bunkered down in March, a glimmer of good news from Kangaroo Island emerged through the gloom. Footage of a tiny Kangaroo Island dunnart had been captured on camera in a new location. For the conservationists working hard to save this endemic species, which was already endangered before ninety per cent of its habitat was razed in the January fires, it was heartening news. That these stories are there to be told is testament to the individual and collective efforts of KI locals supported by their mainland neighbours. This tiny dunnart’s survival is possible because firefighters volunteered to confront the savage fires, saving small pockets of habitat and because Kangaroo Island Land for Wildlife have worked tirelessly since to make that habitat safe for the tiny marsupials. After the January fires, a flood of support brought moments of relief, but these quickly dried up as the world became consumed with the threat of the novel coronavirus. Yet, through what will likely be characterised as one of the most challenging times ever experienced by the Kangaroo Island community, many locals and producers have, like the plucky dunnart, found new ways to band together and adapt to their circumstances.

Going for garlic Shane Leahy – KI Garlic ‘The fires that we had, they carried like wicks on a candle,’ says Shane Leahy, who spent weeks tirelessly fighting the bushfires that eventually consumed his home. When he returned to his property, Shane described the scene as ‘total devastation.’ The vagaries of the fire had spared just one shed full of garlic and the tall tree where his two dogs were chained, scared but safe. This was his small miracle. But the livestock that were the backbone of his business were gone. ‘The positives for me were that my dogs are alive,’ says Shane. ‘I went into my shed, I saw my garlic and went, ‘okay this is where I start my life again’.’ This has become Shane’s focus: transforming his farm, which predominantly ran sheep, into a garlic business. He’s depended on his online presence, which was inundated with support after the fires, and has allowed him to go on. He says Australia was ‘seeing the effect of the bushfires and were all being very supportive but, y’know, obviously with COVID, the whole situation of the world changed.’ Shane calls it ‘a pretty big double-whammy,’ and hopes that we don’t forget about the people on Kangaroo Island, many of who entered this time of unknown, with nothing. kifreshgarlic.com.au >

Top left: Peter Davis – owner of Island Beehive. Top right: Checking the hives. Photos courtesy of Island Beehive. Bottom left and right: Bush vines before and after the fires at Islander Estate. Photos courtesy of Islander Estate.

Feeling the sting

Bottoms up

Peter Davis – Island Beehive The Island has been Peter Davis’ home for his whole life. He was raised one hundred kilometres from the nearest town on the property his parents bought in the mid 40s. Peter, now 73 years old, recalls his childhood saying ‘this isolation has not worried me. That’s how I grew up, in an isolated community.’

Yale Norris – Islander Estate Vineyards The rise and fall of support, peaking after the fires and disappearing with COVID, rings true for these winemakers, too. While the new cellar door, built in Cygnet River, thankfully escaped the fire, the winery and estate met the blaze in all its fury. After cancelling vintage, support and online orders flooded in– until the pandemic began.

‘The first thing that sold out was the plants in the nursery,’ says Peter, ‘and it’s good that people start thinking about self-sufficiency, that’s one of the benefits of this isolation.’ In regards to maintaining a healthy mindset during this time, Peter chuckles ironically and says, ‘it’s been difficult at times, because we have suffered a fairly large trauma, and mentally that does take an effect on you.’

Yale Norris from Islander Estate Vineyards says that their online sales have been a saving grace, keeping the winery afloat. ‘These are not enough to make the business profitable,’ says Yale, ‘but every sale helps keep the doors open.’

He lost his home, forty tonnes of organic honey, and the natural vegetation that his bees rely on. ‘We’ve actually been feeding them for weeks, with sugar syrup and pollen supplements,’ says Peter, who has now begun selling his products predominantly online. The flowers and the foot-traffic may have dried up for now, but you can still purchase the purest Ligurian bee honey by visiting their website. island-beehive.com.au

‘Change is inevitable,’ says Yale, ‘and we will embrace the future with new wines and take the opportunity provided by the challenges of the bushfires and COVID to improve our business practices.’ There’s never been a better time to get your hands on a good drop, and Islander Estate’s online store offers a broad range of their wines in both French and Australian styles, as well as tasting packs. iev.com.au

Top left: Very impressive epicormic growth on stringy bark eucalyptus. Photo courtesy of Nikki Redman Photos. Top right: Photo courtesy of Bev Turner – Emu Ridge Eucalyptus Oil Distillery. Bottom right: Find many unique products available through the online shop. Photo by Shaliza Ferragamo courtesy of South Australian Tourism Commission.

A time to heal

Essential eucalyptus

Nikki Redman – KI Odyssey ‘To start with, I wasn’t doing so well,’ says Nikki. ‘We hadn’t really got over the fires, and then to have this happen.’ Nikki works with KI Odyssey, a tour group that introduces visitors to the magic of the Island, from wildlife to wineries. The fires were hard, but COVID-19 has prolonged the recovery of their vulnerable tourism industry, and stopped normal methods of recuperation in their tracks.

Bev Turner– Emu Ridge Eucalyptus Distillery The Book Them Out campaign was doing really well, says Bev – and then: ‘boom.’ ‘Our community all worked together to stop visitation to keep our island safe,’ she says, admitting that while her products are essential, the Island doesn’t have the facilities to cope with the virus.

Yet, the solitude has given Nikki a chance to stop, and make peace with the past. ‘Maybe we needed this time,’ Nikki reflects, ‘to heal properly.’ Her time has been spent volunteering and revising itineraries, in the hope that domestic travel is on the near horizon. Check in for updates: kangarooislandodysseys.com.au

‘The support has been amazing online,’ Bev says, with new customers scouring their virtual shelves after the supermarkets were stripped bare of cleaning products. She believes it’s been a fantastic opportunity for Australians to discover new, locally produced products including her antibacterial eucalyptus oil. ‘I’m imagining it will be very slow for quite a while, tourism-wise, and we will continue to get our name out there for online orders,’ Bev says. She confidently adds, ‘our community is strong, and we will all work together to get things going again.’ emuridge.com.au In their darkest days, locals are finding the silver linings in the clouds that shadow them, revealing the enduring strength of the community. The once-blackened bush, now greening in rebirth, offers a timely emblem of hope as humans and animals alike collectively step back into the world and adapt to our new landscape. 51

PRODUCER PROFILE

Above: Richard Casley-Smith at Bull Creek Organics.

Garlic in good graces Story by Hayley Taylor. Photograph by Jason Porter.

Across a thin stream draped in weeping willow, the rolling hills of Bull Creek are home to a farm so charming, it’s enough to provoke daydreams of a career change. I hop in a dusty ute with Richard Casley-Smith of Bullcreek Organic Garlic Farm, and drive up to a newly planted paddock of produce, at the highest point of the property. Pointing out his distant perimeter dotted with shrubs, Richard introduces me to his little slice of paradise. He’s a softly spoken man with a deep voice, so I hardly hear him over the cows mooing in the field, when he tells me he wasn’t always a farmer. For years Richard worked in theatre as a rigger, and travelled the world with touring productions. While his parents were doctors, they always had land, so when Richard decided to raise his family on the farm, he was already au fait with wide-open spaces. Back in the shed, over a Japanese beer, we start chatting Allium sativum, and why garlic, like other members of the onion family, tastes so different when grown organically. Taste-wise, there’s no comparison, says Richard, describing the bleached, store-bought bulbs as metallic in flavour and lacking in depth. ‘Then you’ve got that Printanor,’ says Richard, referring to one variety grown organically on his farm. ‘It’s got a really leek-y, really full flavour. It’s as if you’re using other herbs or stocks,’ he continues. ‘Kids like that, and a lot of people who want to eat raw garlic love that.’

And while many of us are used to mindlessly reaching for a loose clove of garlic, understanding the varietal flavour differences can impact the culinary end result. ‘If you’ve only got one bottle of wine and it’s dinner time’, says Richard, pausing to mention that he doesn’t actually like wine, ‘you’re gonna drink it, aren’t ya? So, you can use garlic in anything you’re doing, but some varieties, obviously, are going to be better.’ What began as a specialist garlic farm has now grown to include a number of other vibrant, seasonal vegetables, a decision prompted by the influx of foreign imports which heavily impacted the local market. You can usually find garlic in season from November to January, but other varieties bring them to market throughout the year. Keep in mind it can take nine months for a single garlic harvest and up to six sets of weeds to control mechanically, or by hand. The slow grow, however, is what gives the garlic its incredible flavour. ‘A lot of people grow their food real fast, so they hit it with a lot of water and fertiliser and they get it pumping,’ says Richard. But this approach, he says, is all about money, with flavour and sustainability suffering as a result. Despite the odds in recents months, Richard says ‘markets have been going well, people have been surprisingly good natured, really well behaved, and really patient.’ So, if you’ve decided to head to the markets to get yourself some decent garlic, Richard suggests one of his favourite garlic-forward combinations: a garlic, ginger, chilli and plum marinade. But a word of caution – just one good smell of these organic bulbs, and you’ll never go back.

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FOOD & WINE PAIRING

Finding comfort in the kitchen Story by Mel Amos. Photograph by Jason Porter.

It’s been a rough few months hasn’t it? It’s been a time of uncertainty, of being unsure what the new day will bring and a time when many people are doing it tough. At the same time, we’ve also seen the best of people.

Sauce

Our community continues to show its support for local producers, restaurants, wineries and breweries – the list goes on. Neighbours have been checking in on each other; loved ones have been leaving meals on each other’s doorsteps to eat during their ‘virtual’ dinners over video. Personally, I’ve loved seeing folks getting back to basics and spending time in the kitchen cooking from scratch.

Salt and pepper

One of my favourite things to make from scratch is pasta. It’s surprisingly easy and you can even do it without a pasta machine if you’re willing to apply a little elbow grease. Here, I’m making pasta carbonara, a classic Roman dish made with just five ingredients: pasta, eggs, cured pork, cheese and black pepper. I’ve gone slightly rogue and added some garlic and parsley as well. It would be remiss of me to not suggest a fabulous partner to drink with this delicious meal you’re about to cook up. Afterall, as André Simon, a famous French epicurean, wine merchant and writer once said, ‘food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched they are as body and soul: living partners.’ The perfect partner to this carbonara is Lake Breeze Wines’ 2017 Bernoota. Made from old vines, this blend of shiraz (60%) and cabernet sauvignon (40%) is rich, seductive and full of dark red fruit. Full bodied and beautifully balanced, it hints of chocolate and spice and cuts through the richness of the egg yolks and the saltiness of this dish superbly.

Fettuccine carbonara (Roman style) serves 4 Ingredients Pasta dough 400g tipo 00 flour 4 small eggs (or 3 large) 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Fine semolina for dusting

6 large egg yolks, lightly beaten together 70g parmesan cheese, finely grated, plus extra to serve Extra virgin olive oil 1 large clove of garlic 300g piece pancetta, rind removed and chopped into small dice

Handful of Italian parsley, finely chopped Method To make the pasta dough, mix all ingredients together in a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Continue mixing on medium speed until the dough is smooth and elastic. The dough should be dry but not crumbly and definitely not sticky. Shape the dough into a log, wrap in cling film and set aside to rest for at least 30 minutes. Once rested, divide the dough into 4 or 5 pieces, covering the dough with a tea towel as you go to stop it drying out. Now’s the time to get out the pasta machine if you have one. For fettuccine, I take the roller thickness to level 6. If not, use a rolling pin to roll out the dough to around 2mm thickness. Flour the dough, then roll it up like a swiss roll, and cut (as if you’re cutting slices) into ribbons approximately 8mm thick. Toss the pasta in fine semolina and set aside to dry out a little. For the sauce, combine the egg yolks and parmesan cheese and set aside. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. While you wait for the water to boil, heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Peel the garlic and squash it slightly with the palm of your hand and add it to the oil for a minute to flavour the oil. Don’t let it colour or burn. Add the pancetta and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta crisps up. Remove the garlic from the pan and discard. Turn off the heat while you cook the pasta. Once the water comes to a rapid boil, add the pasta. Being fresh pasta, it will cook very quickly – around 2-3 minutes – so don’t walk away. Scoop out a cup of the pasta water and add a couple of spoonfuls to the pancetta pan. Once cooked, drain the pasta and tip it into the pancetta pan. Toss to combine and then pour the egg mixture over the pasta and toss well to combine. The residual heat in the pan and the pasta will cook the egg as you mix it (don’t be tempted to add heat, this will only end up in scrambled eggs). Add a little more pasta water until it is beautiful and glossy. Serve topped with extra parmesan, cracked pepper and a sprinkling of parsley. Now give yourself a pat on the back for making something from scratch!

BOUTIQUE & UNIQUE

Above left: Gorgeous oversized hats to keep you warm all winter. Above right: Sally Cairns with one of her throws.

A yarn pulled by passion Story by Hayley Taylor.

Sometimes it just takes a bit of free time to realise your passions and discover a new path in life. Despite a childhood surrounded by her oma’s woollen crafts, it wasn’t until Sally Cairns began travelling that she picked up the crochet hook again, and was, well, hooked. For many, this new found passion may have remained a hobby but for Sally it’s grown into a successful business – The Woollen Earth – which she now runs from her Fleurieu home. In the beginning though, she was unplugged and on the road, travelling in a campervan with her husband and two young sons. After a friend showed her the basics of crochet, Sally began to work intuitively with the wool, experimenting, she recalls, with ‘different ways of wrapping the wool around the hook and pulling it through.’ Discovering stitches that worked, and unravelling the ones that didn’t, she realised her new obsession with yarn they found in the rural towns they passed through, albeit much of it cheap and itchy. The uniquely large loops that make Sally’s work so recognisable were born of the same creative curiosity. ‘I’d seen giant knitting,’ Sally recalls, ‘and I thought, what if I could make my own kind of giant crochet? Because I hadn’t seen anything like that before.’ In the fifteen years prior, Sally had been designing and making couture wedding gowns, so her experience with 3D textiles design was far from that of a novice. However, her jump from the meticulous intricacies of bridal wear, to wool and crochet, allowed a new kind of softness and organic form into her work. She was adamant about working with the finest Australian wool, which was a more difficult prospect than you might expect. Australia 56

famously rode to prosperity on the sheep’s back and it seems the good stuff continues to ride off overseas. Eventually, she found a local farm producing irresistibly soft merino wool. On the drive home, Sally began crocheting straight away. ‘I just had to start working with it. I was so excited, sitting in the passenger seat with all this massive wool on me,’ she says. Everything about The Woollen Earth is locally sourced, soft, and handmade with love – even Sally’s crochet hooks. Custom carved by Sally’s husband, they begin as fallen gum branches, foraged during family walks around the Fleurieu Peninsula. Naturally varnished to a gorgeous, golden brown with lanolin as the wool slides up and over the hook, Sally says part of the charm is knowing where each eucalypt branch was collected. As demand for her products has increased, Sally is building a backyard studio inside of a shipping container where she can better fit her giant bundles of wool. ‘There was wool just bursting at the seams in the house,’ Sally says, ‘you’d even end up with wool in your undies, it was just everywhere!’ It’s a labour of love, and with a fashion background, Sally has found her niche in combining an age-old technique with modern design and a sense of place. ‘It’s this ancient craft and I’ve now brought it into a new light,’ Sally says, keen to pass on the knowledge of her craft. She’s currently putting together a kit, for anyone who’s ever wanted to have a crack at crochet themselves. Sally’s family picks fruit from their trees and collects eggs from their chickens, hoping to teach her boys the joy of sustainable living. Sharing that sentiment, she hopes to use her woolly work to inspire a new generation to ‘think outside of the box instead of just going to a shop to buy.’ You can find the new website featuring Sally’s woolly wares, handcarved hooks, and take-home kits at thewoollenearth.com.au

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Ask a local

01. Kim Steele Director of Business Development at Take a Break Holiday Rentals What is the best thing you have put in place to adapt to the COVID-19 stay at home order? We have had many people look to bunker down for longer stays and quiet family time by the beach. For our own family, it’s meant a chance to slow down. What have you done to adapt professionally? With regional travel having been on hold for a couple of months, we have been coming up with great ideas to offer to our guests to make their stay with us even more amazing, now that some travel has resumed. What do you hope stays the same? I hope the slower pace of life continues, with our appreciation of the simple things we were reminded to value in this time: family, friends, exercise, exploring nature, relaxing, and how good holidays really are!

02. Matt Grant General Manager Growth at Alexandrina Council What is the best thing you have put in place to adapt to the COVID-19 stay at home order? Concentrating on maintaining healthy choices, programming in some exercise each morning, making sure there aren’t too many snacks in the fridge, and not drinking too many beers at night! What has made you most proud regarding human behaviour amidst the crisis? People showing genuine care and empathy for each other’s personal situations, and looking after each other. What have you done to adapt professionally? Getting familiar with multiple teleconferencing platforms. Our workplace also set up an initiative, where each morning a message went to staff, asking them to take a break, and share a riddle or a song with the team. 03. Steven Reeves Owner / Manager at SR Construct What has made you most proud regarding human behaviour amidst the crisis? The amount of people out exercising with their families and enjoying outdoor activities. What have you done to adapt professionally? Pushed hard! I identified the parts of my business that I could see would be less affected, and spent three weeks looking for ways to expand in those areas. What are you most looking forward to when things go back to normal? Being able to catch up with all my friends in one place. What do you hope stays the same? Carbon levels.

04. Brioni Oliver

Operations Manager at Oliver’s Taranga What is the best thing you have done to adapt to the COVID-19 stay at home order? We have an awesome little pine forest on the property where I have set up some playthings for the kids to dig and build cubbies. Catching up with friends on applications like House Party and, I don’t know if I should admit this but, doing TikTok dances – and after a few wines, even better! What has made you most proud regarding human behaviour amidst the crisis? People looking out for each other. It’s little acts of kindness that have made me think: yes, we are all in this together and we will all be ok! What have you done to adapt professionally? One tip I do have is, playing hide and seek is a great time to check emails on your phone!

05. Mark Taylor New Home Consultant at Sarah Homes What is the best thing you have done to adapt to the COVID-19 stay at home order? Live Chat has been created on our website, where we can interact with our clients, as well as Virtual Home Tours. What has made you most proud regarding human behaviour amidst the crisis? I feel the majority of our population has now become more understanding, respectful of everything around us, whilst showing compassion for each other. What are you most looking forward to when things go back to normal? I really look forward to taking my wife Tracey out for a meal. What do you hope stays the same? I hope we keep our focus on the important issues in life; thinking more about other people, not being too self-focused, and adapting to do things differently. 58

06. Lori-Ellen Grant Co-owner of Deep Water Medicine What have you done to adapt professionally? We’ve set up online consultations, stocked up on our herbs and supplements, and we’ve studied together to consolidate and explore ideas. What are you most looking forward to when things go back to normal? Being out in the community, enjoying conversations, visiting friends, going on mini-adventures with my children. Hugs are nice, too. What do you hope stays the same? Dinners together as a family, where we make up stories about giant chickens, cockles, and Mary Poppins turning her umbrella into a surfboard. 07. Clay Sampson Sales & Marketing at Fleurieu Milk What is the best thing you have put in place to adapt to the COVID-19 stay at home order? 90% of our office staff are working from home, we’ve split the shifts in production, and isolated certain staff from each other. What has made you most proud regarding human behaviour amidst the crisis? The social distancing, although it is difficult, we are now so much more aware of how we can contract any sort of virus. What are you most looking forward to when things go back to normal? Being able to hug my parents and family, being able to shake someone’s hand when I greet them.

08. Michael Ebert Assistant Head of Middle School at Tatachilla Lutheran College What is the best thing you have done to adapt to the COVID-19 stay at home order? I crumbled at the family pressure to clean out our shed and create an exercise space. Our treadmill, that had become an expensive coat hanger, has finally been dusted off. What have you done to adapt professionally? As a teacher, we have had to make significant changes to the way we deliver content and care to our students. Teachers and students have experienced more change in delivery, than the teaching profession has seen since the Industrial Revolution. What do you hope stays the same? I hope my shed remains uncluttered and that the council comes to collect our hard rubbish before I see the value of the broken drill and drag it back into my possession. I also hope that my family can resist the urge to be dragged back into the busyness of life. 09. Belinda Delyster Head of Senior Students at Investigator College What have you done to adapt professionally? If anything, the desire to help young people reach their potential has intensified, and coming up with new ways to engage and support students has been at the forefront of my mind. What do you hope stays the same? Recognising that everyone is a contributor, and has a role to play within our communities. I hope that we remember we are more alike than different. How do you see children adapting? By and large I think children will cope with the changing world. We are often guilty of suggesting that the current generation lacks resilience, I think we may be surprised.

10. Jason Porter Creative Director at Fleurieu Living Magazine What has made you most proud regarding human behaviour amidst the crisis? As a small business owner I was pretty proud of the way people were quick to support any local business that was able to keep their doors open. What are you most looking forward to when things go back to normal? Hopefully the disappearance of catchphrases such as ‘the new normal’, ‘we’re all in this together’ and ‘stay at home’. What do you hope stays the same? The reduced impact on the environment would be a good start. I’ve seen photos of how much cleaner the canal waters of Venice are now that there’s no traffic on them. And bison have been seen roaming on the beach of Catalina Island in California. They’ve come down from the hills because there haven’t been any holidaymakers around. 59

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Change is local . Story by Nina Keath.

Above: Nina Keath at a Fleurieu workshop about climate risk.

People are often surprised when I tell them I have hope about climate change. My hope is not blind. It’s true, our response has been slower than I’d like and sometimes I feel very worried and sad. But I’ve seen enormous progress over the past decade. The change I’ve seen has been driven by largely invisible, compassionate and humble leaders. It’s a pity they’re invisible, because, just like coronavirus, behaviour is contagious. If everyone could see their success, like I do every day, I think we’d see progress at the rate that’s needed. We’d have a pandemic of climate action. To that end, this article is the first in a series that will shine a light on the unsung work of the many people working to combat climate change in our community. I’ll start on my home turf. When I’m not writing for Fleurieu Living Magazine, I work for City of Onkaparinga supporting our region to build resilience to climate change. In other words, I’m a bureaucrat, which it turns out is not a popular term. So, this is something of a confessional piece. 62

The prevailing narrative about inefficient and anti-innovation bureaucracies so uncomfortably (and hilariously) satirised in shows like Utopia, is only one small and bitter truth of working in government. It’s eclipsing a larger, better and sweeter truth about what our bureaucracies can achieve. COVID-19 has shown that when we adequately fund and expect the best from our bureaucrats and scientists, we can make well-informed decisions that protect our communities from terrible risks. Since the 1990s, councils across Australia have been systematically reviewing the science about climate change, assessing the risks and responding. It’s not sexy. There are probably too many spreadsheets, fluoro vests and acronyms involved. But it’s working in a way I don’t think many people realise. My work is channelled through South Australia’s Regional Climate Partnerships – a large multi-sector network spanning the entire state. One of the challenges in responding to climate change is that, much like coronavirus, it requires coordinated action by all people in all sectors at all levels of government, business and the community, everywhere, all the time. We’ve shown we’re capable of achieving this for COVID-19. The Regional Climate Partnerships are doing the same for climate change. Councils – and the people working within them – have been their engine room.

This is the first in a series of stories profiling community leaders from across the Fleurieu who are taking action on climate change

Above left: Mark Siebentritt of Edge Environment has worked with councils and businesses across Australia to support their climate change response. Above right: Donovan Burton of Climate Planning explaining to councils that climate change can no longer be considered a physical risk alone. It’s also a legal, financial and reputational risk.

So, what have we achieved? To begin, we’ve recognised that our best way of reducing climate risk is to reduce emissions. Through renewable energy, smart building design, LED street lighting and reducing landfill, councils are leading the transition to a low carbon future. The City of Onkaparinga has saved money and reduced our corporate emissions by 42 percent since 2010-11 and we have no plans to stop there. Electric vehicle fleets will be next cab off the rank. The business community are starting to follow suit. Mark Siebentritt, of consultancy Edge Environment, has worked with councils across the Fleurieu and says, ‘While councils have been the most consistent type of organisation responding to climate change in recent decades, businesses are becoming a powerful driver of change. This goes to the top of the ASX with the biggest companies in Australia, and the world, now deeply embedding climate change risk into how they run their companies … I think we’ll recognise the period from 2017 onwards as a time where the corporate world as a collective got serious about tackling climate change.’ I came to the same conclusion after attending a climate conference in 2018. A conspicuous new set of delegates – lawyers, insurers, bankers, and defence force personnel – were telling us they were

worried. The defence force said they see climate change as one of the greatest threats to our national security. Insurers told us they’re haemorrhaging billions annually from escalating bushfires, storms and flooding. Lawyers said that if corporations and governments can’t show they’re managing climate risk, then shareholders and communities will make sure they do. This was confirmed by councils who’d been sued for approving developments that were later impacted by climate related events, and by banks who were sued by shareholders for not disclosing the exposure of their portfolio to climate risk. It became clear that the legal, financial and reputational costs of climate change were starting to bite. To get on the front foot, councils involved in the Fleurieu’s Regional Climate Partnerships – Resilient South and Resilient Hills & Coasts – undertook an assessment of how well we’re managing our corporate climate risks. When compared against over 200 other Australian councils, City of Onkaparinga was ranked in the top five. The consultant who undertook the assessment, Donovan Burton of Climate Planning, told us he’d never seen such uniformly high achieving councils in a single cohort. In his view, that’s in large part because of the collaboration fostered by the Regional Climate Partnerships and our investment in shared learning. So much of what we’re trying is new, so shared learning is key. > 63

‘COVID-19 has shown that swift, transformational change is possible. We’ve flattened the curve of COVID-19 and if we all work together, we can flatten the curve of climate change too.’

Above left: Salvador Jurado, Coastal Asset Planner for the City of Onkaparinga. Right: Shen Mann, Principal Strategy and Policy Officer at Alexandrina Council.

One of many examples of this collaborative approach is the way in which the partnerships have tackled urban heat. Many people are unaware that heatwaves kill more people than cyclones, floods and bushfires combined – a worrying fact as heatwaves escalate. The partnerships have brought together diverse councils and state agencies to map heat exposure across Adelaide’s entire metropolitan region, and an interactive online Adelaide Urban Heat Map now allows residents to check their homes and streets. The heat mapping revealed that water and vegetation have a cooling effect, prompting the partnerships to map vegetation too. Good data like this allows us to know when we’re on track and when we’re not. Right now, the mapping shows we’re falling short. In response, many practitioners are now working to green and cool our towns and suburbs, and I’ll introduce you to some of these people in the next issue. Drier conditions mean we need to find alternative water sources, and Onkaparinga has responded by harvesting recycled water and stormwater for the irrigation of parks, reserves, schools and sports fields, as well as commercial demands. We’re also increasingly using green technologies such as wetlands, raingardens, grassed swales and permeable paving. The importance of greening doesn’t stop at urban areas. Healthy native vegetation provides habitat for our native species, stores large amounts of carbon and cleanses air and water. Council is working closely with state government, the wine industry and community groups on bush regeneration and planting of native species. One area where plantings have been particularly important is our coastal zone, which relies on vegetation to protect our erodible softsedimentary cliffs and sandy beaches. Detailed 3D mapping allows us to monitor erosion in vulnerable areas, and citizen scientists help by photographing coastal storm impacts. 64

Since 2007, we’ve been striving to help our organisations and communities understand the complex interactions between sea-level rise, storm surge, ecosystem health, human behaviour, and erosion. This is work with no easy answers requiring tough conversations about how to respond and who is responsible. As my colleague, Coastal Asset Planner, Salvador Jurado says, ‘Adapting to climate change impacts requires a holistic approach, not just engineering solutions. We need to question what we value and how we can reduce human impacts.’ Sal remains optimistic, using our recent response to COVID-19 to argue, ‘If we can make effective decisions around protecting human health, why not do the same for the health of the planet?’ In Alexandrina, tough conversations have yielded outcomes. Shen Mann is the Principal Strategy and Policy Officer at Alexandrina Council and she explains, ‘Our community was pushed to the brink of economic and ecological collapse during the millennium drought, and council worked hand-in-hand with community to push for end-of-system targets to be included in the Basin Plan. Healthy rivers flow to the sea, and environmental water recovered under the Basin Plan is helping to restore the health of the Coorong, Lower Lakes and Murray Mouth.’ She cautions there is still a way to go and decades of degradation can’t be undone in a few short years, particularly as climate change continues to reduce inflows. But she maintains hope, saying, ‘COVID-19 has shown that swift, transformational change is possible. We’ve flattened the curve of COVID-19 and if we all work together, we can flatten the curve of climate change too. I think COVID-19 has also demonstrated the importance of local resilience – in food and economic systems, and community connections especially – and has refocused people’s attention on the things that really matter such as connection rather than consumerism.’

In a recent survey, 77% of Onkaparinga residents told us they’re concerned about climate change, and their number one priority is for us to foster a sustainable, connected and supportive community.

Above left: Artist Laura Wills who participated in the Resilient South Climate Arts Exchange. Above right: Jen St Jack sorting ‘how can we do better’ sticky notes from a Resilient South and Resilient Hills & Coasts workshop.

Our communities seem to agree. In a recent survey, 77 percent of Onkaparinga residents told us they’re concerned about climate change, and their number one priority is for us to foster a sustainable, connected and supportive community. Last year, thousands of people participated in Sustainable Onkaparinga and Resilient South events on topics such as energy and water efficiency, renewable energy, planting to cool your home, and passive solar design. The Climate Arts Exchange invites artists to interpret council’s climate data through their art and the resulting work has fostered rich community dialogue. One of my favourite partnerships was with artist, Neville Cichon, who distilled technical council studies into a series of compelling and humorous images about coastal erosion. Our Climate Ready Schools program, a partnership with NRM Education, supports students to understand localised climate impacts and then design solutions for their schools. Their designs are practical, creative and making a genuine difference. One set of students recently saved their school thousands of dollars by revealing that the school’s solar panels were underperforming. Climate Ready Communities, a partnership with Red Cross, offers a similar program for adults in which Climate Ready Champions receive intensive training in how to support their communities. The consistent feedback is, ‘I had no idea so much work was already happening!’ Jen St Jack knows better than anyone what’s happening on the ground. She builds collaboration and coordinated projects across the eleven Regional Climate Partnerships and says, ‘I am constantly inspired by the extensive and effective work being delivered by the hundreds of climate practitioners I work with across the state … There is just so much happening to fight climate change in South Australia, and I am driven to share, encourage and support that however I can.’

One of Jen’s Fleurieu based projects is Where We Build What We Build, which aims to encourage more climate resilient development in the Adelaide Hills and Fleurieu Peninsula. The project’s economic analysis shows that building and retrofitting houses to a climate resilient standard will realise huge economic savings – $72 million just by retrofitting existing vulnerable homes – and of course a far more resilient community. Jen says, ‘The Fleurieu has all the right ingredients, including one of the mildest climates in South Australia, to become a leader in climate-ready housing. As we see more climate refugees seeking a cooler and wetter climate, the Fleurieu will become even more attractive as a place to live, invest and visit. We have a real opportunity to make every decision a move towards a liveable, resilient and flourishing Fleurieu.’ This is just a tiny sample of the behind the scenes leaders I’m privileged to work with. But there are so many other people and projects making a difference. We know from the social sciences that behaviour is contagious – both good and bad. One of the many challenges with climate change is that our media often presents peoples’ worst behaviours, focusing on the level of government taking the least action. We need to flip the balance and get better at showcasing the widespread positive action being taken by state and local government, in the community and businesses, and dare I say, behind the scenes at a federal level. If we could all get better at sharing our stories, then I suspect the behaviour contagion might just kick in and help shift our collective fear and apathy into the level of hope and compassion-filled action that is required. Stay tuned for more stories in future issues.

DON’T JUST GET BETTER, STAY WELL. What we do today will shape the way we live tomorrow.

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Story by Poppy Fitzpatrick.

If you’re experiencing a persistent itch in your feet or still feeling the after effects of isolation-related cabin fever, there are few places in the world you’ll find more effective relief than right here on the Fleurieu. A strong dose of crisp coastal air, or the soft thud of grass under foot may be just the tonic you seek. The best part is, such remedies may exist within your very own postcode.

Myponga Reservoir Reserve Only opened for public recreation just over a year ago, you may not yet have had the chance to explore the natural beauty that surrounds this significant local water supply. Walk, run or cycle along the 3.3-kilometre loop trail, keeping an eye out for over 120 different species of native birds and various other wildlife who reside in the

reserve. Share a picnic with friends, or – if you have a fishing permit – try your luck dropping a line in. Gather up a picnic with something from the bakery or a takeaway from the Myponga General Store to enjoy at one of the designated picnic spots along the trail. Rehydrate with a well-deserved brew from Smiling Samoyed.

Page left: Myponga Reservoir. Photo by Laszlo Bilki. This page top: Just off the bike trail: Commodore Point. Photo by Jason Porter. Bottom: Encounter Bikeway pitstop – the beach! Photo by Heidi Lewis.

Encounter Bikeway (Victor Harbor to Goolwa trail) The Encounter Bikeway is a thirty kilometre coastal thread connecting Victor Harbor, Port Elliot, Middleton and Goolwa. Whether you wish to take on the entire length or would prefer a short stroll along a smaller section, the flat, sealed, wheelchair-accessible path makes it suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Walk, cycle, skateboard – even rollerblade – your way along while breathing in the salty air. In winter you might catch a glimpse of a whale!

There’s no doubt you’ll require at least one pit stop along the way. Get your legs moving with a quick caffeine hit from Yilki Store in Encounter Bay, grab some fish and chips by the water at Port Elliot, sneak in a sweet treat from Home Grain Bakery at Middleton, and finish off by grabbing a roadie from the Fleurieu Distillery at Goolwa’s Wharf Barrel Shed. >

Top: Granite Island’s Kaiki Walk features sculptures from national and international artists. Photo by Jason Porter. Bottom: In winter don’t forget to look out for whales! Photo courtesy of the South Australian Tourism Commission by Gary Riley.

Kaiki Walk, Granite Island circuit Take a brief escape from the mainland and walk across the causeway from Victor Harbor to Granite Island. The easy 1.9-kilometre Kaiki Trail will give you panoramic views of Encounter Bay, The Bluff and surrounding islands, while showcasing an outdoor gallery of sculptures and granite boulders along the way. If you’re lucky, you

might even spot some whales. For those with prams or wheelchairs, the path can be enjoyed in an anti-clockwise direction. If you work up an appetite on your island odyssey, circle back to Nino’s Victor Harbor for a bite to eat.

Top and bottom: The Onkaparinga Gorge is full of surprises from native wildlife and birds to gorgeous lookouts with amazing geological features. Photos by Jason Porter.

Onkaparinga Gorge Tucked behind the hills and pockets of suburbia, the stunning Onkaparinga National Park often gets overlooked. Offering a number of different trails with varying degrees of difficulty, the spectacular views of the Onkaparinga Gorge can be enjoyed by many ability levels. Admire the river from above on leisurely lookout trails or immerse yourself in nature by trailing the waterways inside the gorge.

Longer treks are possible in the summer months but be aware that some sections of the trail may become submerged after rainfall.Â Finish off your descent to the bottom of the gorge with a quick drive to Port Noarlunga. Grab a takeaway at Port Burger or one of the many eateries nearby.Â >

Above: The Heysen Trail is as long as it is diverse. From dense vegetation to open coastal. Top image by Jason Porter. Bottom image courtesy of Heidi Lewis, procured from her new stock photo site: @heidiwho.com.

Heysen Trail No other path flaunts the Fleurieu’s infinite natural assets quite like the well-trodden and widely loved Heysen Trail. Whether you crave an adventure scaling windswept cliffs alongside the untamed southern ocean, or an inland journey through farmland, scrub, pine forests and

waterfalls, the Heysen Trail combines it all without ever having to step foot outside the region. If we have to stay put for a while, at least we’re stuck in a little piece of paradise.

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Fleurieu Classic: Christies to Hobart Sailing Challenge February 29 – March 1

On the leap day in February, the Christies Beach Sailing Club (CBSC) hosted their fourth annual Fleurieu Classic, otherwise known as the Christies to Hobart Sailing Challenge. The two-day event sets off from the club, down the southern coastline past ‘Hobart’ – the HMAS Hobart Memorial Lookout – to Wirrina Cove and back again. Six clubs and over fifty participants in classes ranging from small trailer sailers to large keel boats took up the challenge. Sponsors for the 2020 event included Hugo Wines, Southern Vales Air Conditioning, Bennett Design and Boundary Solutions. Race-goers enjoyed carving their path through the deep blue water of Gulf St Vincent accompanied by spectacular views of the cliffs and 74

hills of the Fleurieu hinterland. Less enjoyable were the challenging weather conditions on the Saturday, with light winds slowing the pace and only three boats finishing within the time limit. While Sunday looked like it may be a repeat, a front came through in the late afternoon putting wind in sails and smiles on faces as the fleet headed for home. Craig McPhee, a participant from the Clayton Bay Boat Club, praised the Christies Beach Sailing Club and the many volunteers for running a well-organised event. While the sailing may be the main drawcard, it seems the catering isn’t far behind – sticky date puddings and pavs for dessert on the Saturday night ensured sailors were well fuelled for the coming day. The Christies to Hobart will return again in 2021, with the fifth annual race scheduled for 27 and 28 February 2021. The club hopes to grow the event even more and looks forward to welcoming returning participants as well as sharing the beauty of the south coast with newcomers from South Australia and beyond.

Fleurieu getaways: Beachfront luxe

KINGS BEACH RETREATS

THE JETTY, PORT WILLUNGA

SURFERS PARADE

Waitpinga This exclusive beachside accommodation is situated on the spectacular Kings Head, where communing with nature is food for the soul. Kings Beach Retreats offers three totally private and spectacular wilderness retreats, each with their own all-weather conservatory and unforgettable ocean and coastal views. Headland House, with five ensuite bathrooms, is pure luxury and perfectly suited for extended family reunions, special celebrations with friends and corporate or health retreats. Sea and Sand Retreats are ideal for couples or smaller families. Sleeps up to 18 guests. 0401 693 552 kingsbeachretreats.com.au

Port Willunga The Jetty, Port Willunga is a modern coastal escape overlooking the idyllic Port Willunga beach. Enjoy sea views and breathtaking sunsets from The Jetty’s thoughtfully styled apartments which are uniquely catered to couples, as well as being able to accommodate larger groups via multiple adjoining apartments. Relax and eat in, soaking up the luxurious coastal vibe or treat yourself to a night out at The Star of Greece restaurant which is just minutes away by foot. Sleeps 2-12 guests. 0447 440 704 thejettyportwillunga.com.au

Middleton With uninterrupted sea views from Middleton’s Surfers Parade, this brand new luxury property has everything you need to complete your luxury stay. The two-storey property offers designer furnishings, four bedrooms, large decking areas, multiple living areas and a great family-friendly backyard. Large picture windows offer views of wild winter seas, inviting the outside inside in the best possible way. Sleeps 10 guests. (08) 8552 5744 harcourtsbeachhouse.com.au

Picturesque retreats

SOUTHERN OCEAN RETREATS

LAPITO HOUSE

SEASCAPE RETREAT LUXURY VILLAS

Deep Creek Only an hour’s drive south of Adelaide, but a world away, Ridgetop Retreats offer guests a true escape. Overlooking stringybark forest in the Deep Creek Conservation Park, these three award-winning and architecturallydesigned hideaways can accommodate up to four people in each retreat in stunning comfort. Relax in the open-plan living space with parquetry floors, stainless steel kitchen and leather sofas, while enjoying expansive views through the large windows and sliding doors that showcase the stunning location and abundant wildlife. Each retreat sleeps up to 4 guests – no pets. southernoceanretreats.com.au

Myponga Lapito House is a pet-friendly country retreat nestled among the rolling hills of Myponga. The restored stone farmhouse sits on 116 acres of land and borders with the Myponga National Park and Heysen Trail. It’s the ideal place for couples, families and friends to relax, unwind and soak up the South Australian scenery. Sleeps up to 8 guests. lapitohouse.com

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TRAILBLAZERS

Russell Jeavons and Katrina Kytka

Story by Kate Le Gallez.

Russell Jeavons wants to talk about the maritime environment of the Fleurieu and Kangaroo Island. He thinks it doesn’t get enough attention. He’d keep talking, except for the assertive but good-natured redirection by his wife and partner of nearly forty years, Katrina Kytka. It’s not surprising that Russell’s thoughts would turn to the sea. For one thing, they’re currently on a boat, speaking to me from their anchorage in Kangaroo Island’s Vivonne Bay. They’ve finally set off on a long dreamt about sailing odyssey, albeit one currently limited by COVID-19 to South Australian waters. For another, it’s quite obvious that when Russell and Katrina are passionate about something, they thoughtfully and tirelessly pursue it, whether it’s food, education or, indeed, the ocean. Trying to tell the story of their contribution to the region in a linear way feels almost impossible. So much of their professional and personal lives are indelibly woven together. Pull the string that says ‘Salopian Inn’ and a connected tumble of learnings lead you to Russell’s Pizza. But the Russell’s Pizza string won’t untangle from the one connected to the Willunga Waldorf School. Even the fact they’re currently sailing speaks to these connections. After meeting in Mount Gambier in 1982, the couple set sail for a year in 1984. ‘During that time we were gestating our first born son and then it was him in many ways, and looking for a home that brought us to the Fleurieu,’ Katrina recalls. That baby, Tim, is now a new father himself. ‘So there’s this lovely little loop there,’ she continues. ‘Quite a big loop,’ Russell adds drily. They moved to Blewitt Springs in 1985, and Russell took a job at the soon to be opened Salopian Inn. McLaren Vale was just beginning to establish a regional identity for wine and the young Russell wanted in on the latest trend – the marriage of food and wine. In the Salopian’s proprietors Kerry and Zannie Flanagan, he found like-minded pioneers. Russell remained at the Salopian for the next eight years, going on to work with Pip Forrester when she bought the business in 1988. They slowly began lifting their eyes from the cookbooks, instead looking locally for menu inspiration, searching out small producers and taking their cues from the land. A new ecosystem began to emerge, where producers, restaurants and wine existed together. ‘It was a very exciting time,’ Russell says. ‘We could all prosper together and work together towards the one thing, which was McLaren Vale; what that meant when you put it on a label.’ The late eighties was a busy time for the Jeavons-Kytka family. Baby Tim was joined by three younger siblings – Elliot, Jordan and Anna – and as their young brood approached school age, Katrina and Russell, like all parents, began considering schools. But unlike most parents, they decided to start their own school together with a group of like-minded families in the district. One of those like-minded people was Tony French-Kennedy, whose daughter Greta joined Tim Jeavons and six others in the first class of what would become

the Willunga Waldorf School. The school came about through joint effort and commitment, but in Tony’s recollection, it was Katrina and Russell who suggested Steiner education might offer what they were all looking for. ‘They strike me as a renaissance couple in a way,’ says Tony. ‘They have different strengths and characters that complement each other. Katrina’s got a very strong education, organisational side to her and Russell has got this real creative approach and slightly left of field approach and perspective.’ Over the years, they both brought their differing skills to bear on the school with Katrina dedicating many volunteer hours, before joining the school as a teacher librarian and learning support teacher and eventually becoming head of school from 2017 to 2019. Those early years were an inspired and inspiring time. ‘It’s what happens when a group of people get together with a common vision and bring it into being,’ says Katrina. Their next venture, Russell’s Pizza, continued to explore and expand their ideas of community. Russell hadn’t only been cooking at the Salopian, he’d been observing and considering. Questioning things, as Tony puts it, ‘in a gentle, unexpected way.’ And he noticed the difficult economics involved in running a restaurant. For Russell, viability required simplifying both the cooking and the restaurant apparatus, while emphasising food quality and amplifying the culture both inside the kitchen and out. At the centre of it all was the woodfire brick oven. ‘It just seemed to be a symbol of everything we needed to do. It was traditional, it was cultural, it was incredibly economic and efficient at engaging people.’ Famously, the restaurant was initially only open on Friday nights and operated for the first two years without a liquor licence. Over the years, the whole family worked there, joined by a rotating roster of local kids often from the Waldorf school. ‘The two things grew up together,’ says Katrina. ‘The business and the school grew up side-by-side so there were so many links and so many friends and family connections.’ And perhaps it was this integration of philosophy and community that spoke so strongly to people, whether from Waldorf, Willunga or beyond. Jules Rydon, now chef and co-owner of Pearl at Aldinga Beach, was then just another local kid who spent Friday nights at Russell’s. ‘Russell’s was about provenance, it was about locality, it was about ingredients,’ he tells me. ‘It was about a community. In essence, that’s what Bec and I are trying to slowly build down here at Pearl.’ Russell handed over his business to Emma Baxter and Gerard Liddle some ten years ago. Then when Katrina retired last year, they finally completed their loop and again set sail together. ‘In some ways it’s our time to get out of the way and make way for the next generation,’ says Katrina. It’s both a modest recognition of the contributions they’ve made and also something of a gentle challenge to others to step up. For now, they’re just letting life unfold. ‘We’re sort of living the dream at the moment,’ says Russell. ‘We were dreaming for a long time and now we’re not dreaming anymore, we’re in it.’

Fleurieu getaways: Relaxed coastal

Take A Break Holiday Rentals

THE LOBSTER

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Normanville The Lobster is all about making memories. A renovated 70s a-frame that instantly transports you back to long, simple beach days. Situated in a quiet street, only a short walk to Normy Beach and the main street shops, cafes and pub, The Lobster is the perfect getaway for couples, friends or families (including furry, four-legged family members) and can be enjoyed at any time of the year. Sleeps up to 8 guests thelobster.com.au

Aldinga Beach Nestled among gum trees, Southern Exposure overlooks Aldinga’s conservation park, where kangaroos thrive and kookaburras laugh, all just 400 metres from the famous drive-on Aldinga Beach. Stunningly presented, this is an art-inspired space with comfort in mind. There’s plenty of room to move inside and out, with an expansive entertaining deck with fire pit, trampoline, pool table, dual living spaces, well-appointed kitchen and luxurious bedding. Perfect for the family getaway. Sleeps up to 8 guests 0418 816 915 @southernexposure_aldingabeach

Clayton Bay Clayton Shore is a spacious, light-filled home with uninterrupted views over the water to Hindmarsh Island and the big southern sky. Set on 10 acres of absolute water frontage, this amazing property offers simple, functional elegance the whole family can enjoy. All bedrooms and living areas enjoy water views, while raked ceilings and louvre windows provide full cross ventilation to take advantage of those cooling lake breezes. With its elevated footings and expansive decks, this home appears to float between earth and sky! Sleeps 8 guests 0414 516 120 info@takeabreakholidayrentals.com

BEAUMONT HOUSE

THE PINES

RIPPLE

Port Elliot Set atop the rise overlooking Boomer Beach, sits this impressive family entertainer. A recent refurbishment has reinvigorated the property with new furniture and quality bed linen to create a luxurious beach escape that parents and kids alike can enjoy. The cafes and boutiques of Port Elliot are just a short walk away or take the coastal walk around the cliff top of Knights Beach through to Horseshoe Bay. Sleeps 12-14 guests 0414 516 120 info@takeabreakholidayrentals.com

Maslin Beach The Pines at Maslin Beach is your ultimate relaxing beachside getaway. Recently renovated and styled in collaboration with retail store, Artistic Lifestyle, The Pines has a vibe like no other. Boasting many upcycled furniture pieces that create a unique, homely feel, guests can enjoy the retro coastal style inside or relax on the enormous entertainer’s deck. Just a five minute stroll to the iconic Maslin Beach, fences and a large backyard make this a perfect spot for children and pets. Sleeps 6 guests 0414 356 375 Book via Airbnb

Port Willunga Set in the quiet and exclusive survey area of Port Willunga, this modern oasis awaits your next escape. Situated two blocks from the famous Port Willunga beach and a 10 kilometre drive to the endless vineyards and cellar doors of McLaren Vale, it’s the perfect base for exploring the Fleurieu. Sun-filled rooms, contemporary furnishings and openplan living set the scene for a relaxing and restorative stay. Sleeps 6 guests @rippleatportwillunga

Take A Break Holiday Rentals

Fleurieu getaways: Heritage haven

LEONARDS MILL

JIMMY SMITH’S DAIRY

SUNNINGDALE HOUSE

Second Valley The gardens surrounding the historic 162 year-old Leonards Mill provide a gorgeous setting for two intimate cottage rooms, each with ensuite, queen-sized bed and lounge area. Reservations include a meal in the Leonards Mill restaurant, with Friday and Saturday night bookings enjoying a stunning five course degustation dinner and weekday bookings treated to a three course lunch. The perfect spot for your next well-earned weekend of relaxation, a special celebration, or romantic getaway. Each cottage sleeps 2 guests. (08) 8598 4184 leonardsmill.com.au/accommodation/

Port Elliot This thoughtfully restored colonial dairy offers luxury accommodation among Port Elliot’s pristine beaches, rugged bushland trails and charming wineries. Carefully curated and designed for absolute comfort, it offers the chance to truly unwind. Qantas Travel Insider loved the combination of heritage and modernity, saying ‘while original features such as exposed-bluestone walls remain, it’s modern additions such as floor-to-ceiling windows, bamboo flooring and luxe bathrooms that make this place so inviting.’ Sleeps 2-4 guests. 0409 690 342 jimmysmithsdairy.com.au

Port Elliot Sunningdale House is a beautifully renovated 1800s early settler’s house in the heart of Port Elliot, which now offers a bespoke luxury holiday retreat. Enjoy a stroll to the nearby eateries and boutiques in Port Elliot, swim in the turquoise waters of Horseshoe Bay, or simply relax on the expansive deck. With luxury 1500TC linens, fine furnishings and a gourmet chef’s kitchen, Sunningdale is your home away from home. Furry friends are also welcome in the secure, fully fenced yard. Sleeps 8 guests. 0426 828 120 Instagram: @sunningdale.house

FREELING ST

BROOKLANDS HERITAGE B&B

MILL ESTATE

Port Elliot This c1920s stone cottage is perfectly situated to enjoy everything Port Elliot has to offer. Recently renovated, the cottage offers a touch of class when it comes to holiday living, with four bedrooms, two bathrooms, dual living areas, an executive kitchen and dining area plus a great entertaining deck. This home really is something special for the whole family or a cast of friends to enjoy. Sleeps 11 guests. (08) 8552 5744 harcourtsbeachhouse.com.au

Port Elliot The perfect romantic getaway for two, this charming self-contained cottage is a magical place, resonating with the spirit of a bygone age. Built in the 1840s and State Heritage listed, it’s set in 65 acres of farmland and overlooks the ocean between Port Elliot and Victor Harbor. Beautiful gardens landscaped by Sophie Thomson on the outside and a cosy wood fire, well-appointed kitchen and spa bath on the inside make Brooklands a treat in any weather. Sleeps 2 guests. 0424 341 045 brooklands.net.au

Goolwa Located just off the main street of Goolwa, Mill Estate boasts two self-contained luxury cottages, the original c1853 Mill Cottage and The Abode Spa Retreat. Each dwelling balances the warmth and comfort of home with the premium indulgence of sophisticated living. Whether it’s a romantic seaside escape for two, or a getaway with family or friends, Mill Estate offers the perfect base to explore the Fleurieu Peninsula. Come and enjoy all that the region has to offer and let Mill Estate provide you with a recharging ‘winter weekender’. Sleeps 8 guests 0448 016 951 millestate.com.au

Bespoke artisans Introducing six diverse craftspeople, all creating specialised and unique hand-crafted pieces that optimize style, design, skill, aesthetic and quality.

ASTLEY WRIGHT KNIVES

YELLOWBIRD

A SMALL ART FACTORY

Located at 71 Hill Street in Port Elliot, Astley Wright Knives create hand-forged Damascus, carbon and stainless steel knives for direct sale or as custom commissions. Simple in principle, but complex to make, their knives are functional art, balancing usability and ergonomics with aesthetics. Andrina and Phil also offer one- and two-day knife making courses, where they will guide you through designing and crafting your own bespoke knife. astleywright.com.au

YellowBirdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stunning range of clutch purses and bags are designed and handmade by Lynley Slater on the Fleurieu Peninsula. Her slow fashion approach uses small quantities of leather and fabrics chosen for their quality, structure and design paired with sustainably sourced blackwood and maple frames. Lynley handmakes each piece in her home studio, incorporating beautiful details to ensure every YellowBird bag is unique and offers timeless appeal. @yellowbirdhandmade

Warm the heart of your garden and home with metal art and sculptures by local artist team Anna Small and Warren Pickering. From small beginnings, their artistic output has grown and evolved. Utilising laser cutting technology and hand cutting tools, Anna and Warren create small production pieces through to larger wall or garden sculptures and bespoke structures. Their work can be found at the Fleurieu Arthouse in Hardyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tintara Winery McLaren Vale. asmallartfactory.com.au

Photo by Russell Millard.

INDIGO CLAY Chris Wilksch is a ceramic artist. She loves the meditative process of wheel throwing, carving, decorating and the challenge of glaze chemistry. ‘There’s something beautifully respectful about turning earth into finely made objects to be treasured by their owners. The process is fun, rewarding and always a little unpredictable.’ Chris’ studio is in Port Noarlunga where she offers pottery classes, workshops for special events and small groups that combine creative therapies and mindfulness processes. indigoclay.com.au

HAND BLOWN GLASS BY LLEWELYN ASH Llewelyn has been working in glass since 2008, learning his art at the University of South Australia and then honoured as a JamFactory Associate. He is now an award-winning artist and has exhibited around Australia. Llewelyn specialises in bespoke lighting, corporate awards, artworks and unique products for your home or that special gift. Llewelyn is one of the award-winning glass blowers behind Eternity Memorials, carefully embedding ashes into glass keepsakes. llewelynashglass.com

SHE SEWS She Sews is located in the heart of McLaren Vale and specialises in made to measure bridal and evening wear. Megan offers no obligation quotes on creating an individual dress or outfit to fit perfectly – and reflect your individual style. She Sews offers an extensive range of lace, silk, wool and satin fabric perfect for a winter wedding. If you have purchased an ‘off the rack gown’, a made to measure alteration service is also available and this includes bridesmaids, mother of the bride and men’s suits. shesews.com.au

To your door: Six Fleurieu businesses offering something local and a little special, delivered right to your door.

WINE TASTING POD PACK

FLEURIEU GIFT PACKS

SEASONAL ORGANIC PRODUCE BOX

Dowie Doole Dowie Doole’s Tasting Pod Pack recreates the cellar door experience at home, so you can taste some of the highlights of the Dowie Doole range without leaving the house. There are three packs to choose from and each includes a curated selection of six wines in generous tasting pours (enough for two people to taste) as well as branded Riedel wine glasses. Read the included tasting notes and winery information at your leisure, or watch winemaker Chris Thomas tell the story of each wine on YouTube. dowiedoole.com

The Local People Co Beautifully presented, hand wrapped and sustainable, The Local People Co’s care packages celebrate the small businesses, producers and artisans of the Fleurieu. Founder Mandy Scanlon thoughtfully curates packages to suit any occasion or simply to encourage a little self care on a weekend away (or at home!) Orders can be placed via the website, or email Mandy with a price range and your wishlist and she will create a personalised package. The Local People Co is about community, networks, friends and celebrating life’s moments in style. thelocalpeopleco.com

Girl Fleurieu Organics Getting to the shops isn’t always easy, or even possible as recent times have shown. Girl Fleurieu Organics home delivers mixed boxes of 100% certified organic fruit and vegetables each week. You can also add in Goolwa Heritage Bakery bread, Cleland Gully free range eggs and DeGroot Coffee beans. Girl Fleurieu owner Lou Nicholson loves enabling easy access to certified organic produce and she’s more than willing to brave the elements through winter to bring it to your door. girlfleurieuorganics.com

FIREWOOD

AWARD WINNING ARTISAN PRODUCTS

WINE AND PROVIDORE

WOOD’N’LOGS Not all firewood is created equal, and Wood’N’Logs are your trusted local supplier of high-quality, well-seasoned, hardwood varieties plus all the accessories you need to keep your fireplace running efficiently. And as part of their friendly service, they can deliver your firewood right to your door! Offering quick, easy payments over the phone, the experienced team can arrange delivery when you need it, so your home can continue to stay toasty and warm throughout the cooler months. woodnlogs.com.au

Matchett Productions & Big Sissy Foods Vicki Matchett has been producing exceptional, multi-award winning artisan food products for over 15 years from the southern Fleurieu Peninsula. Her broad, sustainably produced range covers the full foodie gamut, with favourites including the Bad Sally balsamic reduction over veggies, a salad dressed in the Storm soya sesame dressing or perhaps olives and crackers to round out your cheese platter. FLM readers can enjoy 15% off using discount code FLM15 at checkout. (Expires 30/9/20) matchettproductions.com

Hither & Yon + Three Monkeys Hither & Yon and 3 Monkeys Fine Foods teamed up as neighbours and friends to create The Local Care Package. Their mission: to help take care of their community – a community that has shown them tremendous support during this tough period. Create your own care package from their selection of wine, tea, coffee, chocolate and good smells (thanks to Etikette Candles) or choose one of their curated selections from local makers: the Local Grazing Box or the Brekkie Box. Free local delivery or pick-up. hitherandyonwith3monkeys.square.site/

www.littleroad.com.au @littleroadstudio Interior Design & Styling Building Selections Furniture Specification Concept Retail Store

W I N T EARY G ETAWbetween

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INTERIOR DESIGN STUDIO & CONCEPT RETAIL STORE The Temperance Precinct, 206 Port Road, Aldinga Marcus Syvertsen / 0419 158 784

INTER

A unique and luxurious base to explore the Fleurieu Peninsula.

Bookings 0448 016 951 · stay@millestate.com.au

NEED JAW-DROPPING IMAGES OR VIDEO OF YOUR BUSINESS FROM THE AIR? AERIAL DRONE PHOTOGRAPHY AND VIDEO www.fly-the-fleurieu.com

FLY THE FLEURIEU

So much more Photography by Deb Saunders. Garments designed and made by Megan Caldersmith.

Page left: Full length textured coat worn over seven panel navy blue velvet dress. Top left: Native Australian floral jacket is finished with vintage glass buttons. Top right: Box pleated floral skirt features pockets and is worn with navy blue velvet shell top. Bottom left: Leather clutch with wooden handle by YellowBird handmade. Bottom right: Native floral arrangement by Lyn Whish Mclaren Flat.

This isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the feature we were intending to publish on these pages. Back before social isolation, we imagined a collaborative fashion feature with local photographer Deb Saunders capturing event wear created by Megan Caldersmith from She Sews in McLaren Vale, as we looked ahead to the Ladies Long Lunch and Bushing Lunch. We found a model. Megan sourced fabric and began fittings. Then everything changed. > 85

Above: Long sleeve fitted red dress with low back feature.

After, with events cancelled into the foreseeable future, we knew a different approach was needed. The answer wasn’t immediately obvious. Things came to a standstill for a while, as we reeled from the implications of social distancing requirements – retailers like Megan were shutting down and weddings and special events were being cancelled or postponed. Behind closed doors many of us panicked and wept and waited to see what was next. But not for long – as entrepreneurs and business people we are used to adaptation and change. It’s second nature to add to our workload or learn new skills to fulfil a need in our businesses. Taking pause made the path forward clear: it was more important than ever to proceed, albeit in a different format. In light of social distancing laws, we adapted the plan. Megan would alter the clothes 86

to fit her daughter, whom she could responsibly dress and Deb would choose an outdoor space and use suitable lenses to stay the mandated 1.5 metres away. The result is this: a beautiful homage to what can be done in adverse conditions. A beautiful young woman reluctantly agreeing to help her mum out of a bind, dressed in lovingly created garments and photographed in the spectacular Fleurieu landscape by Deb. Megan designed these pieces to suit the Fleurieu lifestyle – versatile and fun. A range to take you from event wear to casual, simply by bringing a hem up or by pairing with jeans and a t-shirt. They’re classic pieces with joyful prints that move with you. This isn’t the feature we planned, it’s so much more.

Why not wind down in the wine region?

DARINGA HOUSE

TENT ON A HILL

MULBERRY LODGE

McLaren Vale Experience the heart and soul of McLaren Vale by staying at the historic Daringa House, the first settlement home in McLaren Vale on Oxenberry Farm. Built in 1840 by the first settlers William Colton and Charles Hewitt, the cottage has been lovingly restored to its former glory and now offers luxury accommodation in an idyllic location. The path to the bottom of your private garden will take you right onto the shiraz trail, where you can enjoy a leisurely walk or visit the cellar door and café just up the trail. Sleeps 4 guests. (08) 8323 0188 oxenberry.com

McLaren Vale Spend the night in a plush bell tent, surrounded by kangaroos and gum trees, with a view over the McLaren Vale vineyards. From the secluded hilltop location, you’re free to relax beside your private fire pit and admire the sunset over the vale whilst sipping on a local wine. Each tent includes a queen bed (with room for two more to bunk on the floor) lit by solar fairy lights, lanterns and candles. It’s the perfect way to escape the norm and connect with nature without sacrificing your creature comforts. Each tent sleeps 2-4. 0438 209 669 tentonahill.com.au

Willunga Award-winning Mulberry Lodge is a country retreat offering a luxurious and indulgent escape to the Fleurieu Peninsula. Nestled among the vines of the McLaren Vale wine region, on the edge of the historic township of Willunga, Mulberry Lodge is the perfect destination to relax and rejuvenate. Indulge in a Winter Warmer getaway or treat someone special with a Pamper Package. Sleeps up to 6 guests. 0424 825 965 mulberrylodgewillunga.com

KARAWATHA COTTAGES

HOTEL CALIFORNIA RD

SHADOW CREEK

McLaren Vale Situated among vineyards, Karawatha Cottages offers guests a quiet retreat with sublime views over rolling hills. Each of the three cottages is luxuriously furnished, with wood/gas-log heaters, fully equipped kitchens, espresso machines, Sheridan linen/ towels and more. Sumptuous breakfast provisions and a bottle of premium wine are included and it’s an easy walk to neighbouring cellar doors and restaurants. Each cottage sleeps 2 or 4 guests. 0434 163 040 karawathacottages.com.au

McLaren Vale McLaren Vale’s newest luxury micro-hotel is your perfect adult escape. Overlooking the vineyards, each carefully curated fifty square metre suite boasts a luxurious floating king bed, dual vanities, rain shower and a soaking tub for soothing the soul while taking in the views through floor-to-ceiling windows. Whether from each suite’s private viewing deck or from the common courtyard, relax and enjoy stunning sunsets with a glass of Inkwell wine. Each suite sleeps 2 guests. 0429 797 575 inkwellwines.com/hotel

McLaren Vale Escape to vineyard country and enjoy modern luxury with views across the vines all the way to the ocean. The lovely large deck is perfect for popping your feet up and soaking it all in after exploring the region or perhaps wandering through the vines with a delicious glass of wine in hand. Relax in the deepsoaking bath and adore the luxurious fine linen on the king size bed. Private, peaceful and all yours. Sleeps 2 guests shadowcreek.com.au

Chill outside

Warm up your winter and create a cosy and inviting outdoor living space that inspires connection with family, friends and nature, with expertise and specialised products from these six local businesses.

YANKALILLA LANDSCAPE AND GARDEN CENTRE Yankalilla Established in 1985 on the banks of the Bungala Creek between the townships of Yankalilla and Normanville. Our qualified staff take pride in providing their local knowledge of the area, combining this with advice and passion for all things horticultural. We also offer pet and fodder supplies, plumbing, hardware and of course landscaping supplies. yanklandscape.com

WOOD’N’LOGS Seaford Meadows

FLEURIEU WOOD OVENS Yankalilla

Wood‘N’Logs is a local, South Australianowned and operated business that has been proudly serving the south for over 35 years. Offering a large range of quality landscape and building supplies alongside outstanding service, their experienced team can work with you to help transform your outdoor areas into something truly beautiful and bespoke, while adding value to your home. woodnlogs.com.au

Enjoy outdoor entertaining for family and friends in style with your very own wood oven. With over 17 years’ experience, this small family-owned business is all about quality craftsmanship and attention to detail. Choose from two standard sized ovens and a variety of accessories or commission a custom designed oven that can be built on site to suit your unique space. If you’d prefer to leave it to the experts and relax, hire a wood oven trailer and catering package for your next event! fleurieuwoodovens.com.au

MCLAREN VALE GARDEN CENTRE McLaren Vale

BETTA QUALITY CURTAINS & BLINDS Victor Harbor

JUNGLE IN WILLUNGA Willunga

Celebrating 36 years in business, McLaren Vale Garden Centre’s qualified horticultural staff are ready to help inspire and create a stunning garden at your home. Their beautiful garden centre is brimming with gorgeous native plants, fruit trees, bush tucker, shade and ornamental plants and trees. And have you seen the gift shop? Their wide range of indoor plants, pots and gifts will suit any occasion. Come in and say hi. Bring your dog too! facebook.com/mclarenvalegardencentre

Since 1997, Betta Quality Curtains & Blinds has been providing Fleurieu homes with quality Australian made indoor and outdoor blinds, shutters, awnings, soft shades and curtains, with motorised options available. Offering Australia’s only self-correcting LUXAFLEX® Evo Magnatrack awning system, strong enough to handle the most extreme windy conditions. Visit our official LUXAFLEX® gallery showroom and we’ll work with you to find the perfect solution for your home. bettaquality.luxaflex.com.au

Specialising in clumping bamboo, palms and tropical plants, the Jungle tribe are your friendly, local gardening experts. Jungle up your home with their wide range of luscious plants or transform your outdoor space into a holiday oasis – aloha baby! Make sure to leave time to explore the inspiring onsite gardens with walkways weaving through a magical forest. Kids can enjoy a wild adventure searching for animals hidden in the jungle and scrambling through the climbing net. jungleinwillunga.com.au 89

BOOKS & WORDS

Winter book reviews by Mark Laurie of South Seas Books, Port Elliot.

Lest we forget Thea Astley A prolific and celebrated Australian writer of her time, Thea Astley wrote fifteen novels and had two short story collections published between 1958 and the turn of the century. She won numerous literary awards, including the Miles Franklin (Australia’s most prestigious literary award) four times, a distinction only equalled recently by Tim Winton and never bettered. While she lived and taught in Sydney for many years, most

of her work is set in Queensland, where she was born and educated, and was the place she considered her heartland. Known for a keen wit, she directed many of her sharpest satirical flourishes towards the small-mindedness and philistinism she witnessed in small town Australia. The innate feminism that infuses her novels manifested in her professional life when, as a teacher and university academic, it drove

It’s raining in Mango

decline preceding it through the stories of seven carefully drawn characters. Set in the ‘sapless weather’ of a perennially drought-stricken central Queensland town, the author traces the lives and departures of its residents, that which brought them to the town, and that which drives them away. However, seething with the continuing history of the indifferent brutality Australians visit upon the land and one another, this compassionate anthem to the marginalised, the victimised and the dispossessed reaches even further beyond its characters and their vignettes towards a broader, more inconvenient truth. At times acerbic and witty, at others achingly sad, this is a work which reads as the culmination of a lifetime of observation, a final salvo against the greed, racism, misogyny, and emptiness she saw overtaking Australia’s dying heart.

(1987)

by Thea Astley Published by Penguin Books ISBN 9780143204749 $12.99 Written while Astley was living in Kuranda, the gold rush and cane fields of far north Queensland with its seasonal rhythms of wet and dry, provides the setting for this multi-generational novel. An antidote to the likes of Ion Idriess, the author skewers the self-perpetuating cant of settler triumphalism in a country which is ‘dangerously new’. She lays bare the disproportionate sufferings of wars and depression, before moving on to the tensions and hypocrisies of the hippie movement, railing all the while against the endlessly repeating oppression and exploitation of the Indigenous, the impoverished and the simply different. Written largely through the voices of strong, original, and self-aware female protagonists, the book explores a history centred around family and place from the ‘human confetti’ flung to this Australian margin. It does so through stories inspired from pictures in a family photograph album, employing multilayered sentences brimming with beauty and ideas. A penetrating eye, sharp wit and majestic literary control enabled Astley to achieve what biographer Professor Susan Sheridan described as ‘an astonishing mixture of comedy and tragedy, satire and violence,’ ever-present but unevenly recognised in our Australia’s heritage.

her to campaign for equal pay and to fail a student who refused to read Henry Handel Richardson once he found out she was a woman. With her passing in 2004, her name has faded for the most recent generations of readers. It will be their great joy to rediscover her, as Thea Astley’s stories and themes are as relevant as ever and the soaring ambition of her language and imagery remain undiminished.

Drylands (1999) by Thea Astley Published by Text Classics ISBN 9781925603576 $12.95 In her final novel, which would win her fourth Miles Franklin award, Thea Astley addresses ‘the world’s last reader’ at the close of the twentieth century. A time which, through her narrator’s eyes, sees cable television and Nintendo, combined with an impoverished education, producing new lows of illiteracy and intellectual passivity. What would she make of us now, twenty years later amidst all there is to recognise and regret? In Drylands, Astley taps into the hollowing out of Australia’s outback settlements and the long history of social degradation, environmental despoliation and economic

books, this work has much to say about our society at large, questioning its currencies and positing what is needed for life to be more than the motion of the body, whether through space or time.

The Motion of the Body Through Space

who risk all of the attendant physical, and increasingly criminal, risks to capture the eggs of wild birds, that ‘most perfect thing’ which ‘fuses sensuality of form with the ultimate symbol of fertility’. A modern-day cat and mouse detective story, featuring well-drawn protagonists, plays out against a deeply researched historical backdrop, a page turner with an intelligence which does nothing to reduce its speed or increase its ability to be put down. The history of falconry and of developing attitudes towards egg collecting and treatment of wild animals adds considerably to the personal stories of thief and detective and their interaction. While the human characters are both interesting and engaging, the true stars are the falcons, the three hundred kilometre per hour apex predators with optic abilities ten times our own, whose lives and existence are worth so much more than as commodified sports stars in (or on) our hands. It is worth unfathomable sums to know they are out there, living wild, their clutches safe from ours.

by Lionel Shriver Published by The Borough Press, a HarperCollins imprint ISBN 9780007560790 $32.99 After decades of exercising alone at the vanguard of the pack, Serenata faces a profound change of life as her knees fail her at the same time her newly redundant husband, Remington, turns to extreme exercise and a personal trainer named Bambi to find his new place in the world. The previously self-contained ease of their marriage, solid even when challenged by the ‘genetic litter’ of their offspring, spins on its axis as they confront their sixties in a society where youth is revered but lives are long. A sharply satirical novel taking aim at western society’s search for meaning and struggle against ageing in fitness regimes, marathons, and triathlons, the latest fad ‘pinballed’ to by its ‘swollen herd’. All its familiar character types are present in their obsessive, lycra-clad, Fitbit-sporting glory, their motives and cultish practices dissected dispassionately to highly amusing effect. However, like the author’s previous

The Falcon Thief: A True Tale of Adventure, Treachery and the Hunt for the Perfect Bird by Joshua Hammer Published by Simon & Schuster ISBN 9781501191886 $39.99 A true account of international wildlife smuggling and its undoing which combines natural history, thriller, crime, biography, and travelogue genres to produce a truly fascinating story. Its narrative ranges widely between the wildlife parks of southern Africa, the glacial frigidity of northern Scotland, Canada and Patagonia, and the oil-soaked deserts of the Arab Emirates. The practice of egg collecting and its motivations are exposed, providing a clear picture of the particular obsessions of those 91

Fleurieu weddings AshÂ and James Irwin married on 14 March 2020 at Woodburn Homestead. Photographs by Klick Creative.

Above left: A large marquee festooned with lighting and gorgeous bouquets was complemented with fine wine and delicious celebratory food. Above right: The outdoor chapel at Woodburn Homestead provides a gorgeous backdrop for a wedding.

James (Jimmy) and Ash met in 2014 at Ash’s workplace, the Australian Institute of Fitness. Jimmy came in looking for information on studying a massage course. Ash spotted him straight away and hoped he’d sign up for the course – he did. There was still a small obstacle to overcome – staff weren’t permitted to date students and it was common knowledge to everyone at work that they were keen on each other. Three months later, on the final day of Jimmy’s course, he asked Ash out to dinner, taking her to Press on Waymouth Street. ‘We shared half the menu!’ says Ash. ‘There’s nothing James and I appreciate more than a good feed.’

Three years later, James surprised Ash by proposing at his police graduation ceremony. After a two-year engagement, the couple tied the knot at Woodburn Homestead – the only venue they considered for their big day. They adored the rustic and rural feel of the place and it only made sense to enter the reception to ‘Home Among the Gumtrees’ by John Williamson. Looking back, Ash and Jimmy are so grateful to have had such a special day surrounded by their nearest and dearest right before the COVID restrictions hit. Their ‘perfect day’ celebrated not only their love, but all they have achieved together – professionally and personally. They’ve both achieved career milestones and together bought their forever home, holidayed overseas and raised two beautiful fur babies. ‘We couldn’t have achieved half as much,’ says Ash, ‘if it wasn’t for the love, support and constant encouragement we have provided each other.’ 93

INDOOR PLANTS · CERAMICS · BASKETS · PLANTERS · HOMEWARES · BEAUTY PRODUCTS · JEWELLERY GIFT VOUCHERS · CARDS · SELECT GARDENING PRODUCTS

Women’s fashion in the heart of Port Elliot Located on The Strand elliotandme.com.au

charlieandjack.com.au · Victor Harbor

lunch + tastings weddings + events handpicked festival bed + breakfast Step Rd Langhorne Creek 8537 3017 lakebreeze.com.au

Learn to Surf

All ages, all levels, all time fun!

When Love and Skill Work Together Expect a Masterpiece! In the heart of the Aldinga Historic Township. (08) 7516 5657

Eternity Memorials is a team of award-winning glass blowers who create beautiful memorials by carefully embedding ashes into glass. These amazing, hand-made works of art allow you to keep the memories of your loved ones close. eternitymemorials.com.au · Instagram: eternitymemorials info@eternitymemorials.com.au · 0480 146 377

P: 0412 950 087

surfcultureaustralia.com.au Hand made with love in South Australia

SOCIAL PAGES

Being Social: Temperance Precinct launch The Aldinga Temperance Precinct is a new nexus for food, fashion, wine and design. The February 29 launch celebrated the official opening among a crowd of loving locals with the late Miss Gladys Sym Choon owner Joff Chappel, who sadly passed away in April, cutting the ribbon.

Being Social: FLM autumn issue launch at Pearl Aldinga On March 10 FLM celebrated the launch of their autumn issue at the new Pearl Aldinga. A great spread of food from Jules Rydon, a surprise appearance from American avant-garde artist Laurie Anderson and a spectacular sunset topped off a great night.

01: Helen and Hani Mouneimne 02: Janice and Charles Manning 03: Sarah Mitford-Burgess and Meagan Harrison 04: Janet Freeman, Christo Reid and Aleecia Murray 05: Holly Wyatt and Bernadette Kelly 06: Imogen Czulowski and friend 07: Richard Seidel with Cindy and John Westphalen 08: Graham Richards, Sande Bruce and Jodi Gryzb 09: Renee Champion, Shana Dunn and Nicole Gelsi 10: Lori-Ellen Grant and Zannie Flanagan 11: Pia, John and Lara Nowland 12: Charmaine Liapis, Leah Ireland, Dean Wilson and Jim Liapis.

SOCIAL PAGES

Being Social: Ah, not so much As large events wrapped up in early autumn and we retreated into our homes to isolate, the spirit of the people of the Fleurieu continued to shine through in the many ways. We adapted. The inspiration that distance afforded us came in all shapes and sizes – from the poignant documentation of families on their porches, to the elaborate costumes pulled on to take the rubbish bin out to the curb for #binnight. In the kitchen experimentation was rife, and in avoiding busy supermarkets we headed to the hills to pick pine mushrooms and generally embrace the opportunity to take advantage of the wide open spaces we are lucky to have in abundance. As we begin to see a light at the end of the pandemic tunnel, we shouldn’t forget the incredible ways that our community brought creativity, closeness and laughter to their time in isolation. (I know one dog was particularly happy with ‘the new normal’ and the increased amount of snack food this involved.)

01: Nicky Connolly with Matiah and Connor Coppard 02: Tom Hilder, Emily Hilder, Noa, Felix and Alfie the dog 03: Heidi Lewis with Ashton and Belle 04: Robin Anthony takes out the bins with Freya and Joe 05: Meg Carr and Matt Bailey with baby Otis 06: Jacob Stavrakis: Feast after forage in the forest 07: Family foraging with the Sidhus: Surahn, Jess, Ted and Bowie. 96

KANGAROO ISLAND I

YOU LL L VE IT

Arrive, unpack and relax.

Mention FLM when booking on our website to receive 10% off your accomodation (2 night minimum). See our Clayton Shores and Beaumont House properties in ‘Fleurieu Getaways’ on page 78.

Experience our quality holiday homes, personalised service and attention to detail. Encounter Bay · Victor Harbor · Chiton · Port Elliot · Middleton · Goolwa · Hindmarsh Island · Clayton Bay

info@takeabreakholidayrentals.com · www.takeabreakholiday.rentals *Conditions apply. Twin share. Travel 1 June to 31 August 2020.

Take A Break Holiday Rentals

FLEURIEU LIVING T H E B E S T O F S O U T H A U S T R A L I A’ S F L E U R I E U P E N I N S U L A A N D K A N G A R O O I S L A N D

FLEURIEU LIVING MAGAZINE

Rustic industrial charm: Strathalbyn · The COVino diaries Wide open spaces · Change is local · Notes from the outback Hope and healing: Kangaroo Island www.fleurieuliving.com.au

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WINTER 2020

We design and build award winning homes

AU $9.95 WINTER 2020

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Art · Design · Food · Wine · Fashion · Photography · People · Destinations

Fleurieu Living Magazine Winter 2020

Articles inside

Trailblazers: Russell Jeavons and Katrina Kytka

Ask a local

A yarn pulled by passion: The Woollen Earth

Producer profile: Richard Casley-Smith of Bull Creek Organics

The sharing table: A generous feast created by Helen Mouneimne

Winter landscape: Horace Trenerry

Trailblazer: Joff Chappel