Fleurieu Living Magazine Autumn 2022 by Fleurieu Living Pty Ltd

FLEURIEU LIVING T H E B E S T O F S O U T H A U S T R A L I A’ S F L E U R I E U P E N I N S U L A A N D K A N G A R O O I S L A N D

FLEURIEU LIVING MAGAZINE

When every detail matters ...

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AU $9.95 AUTUMN 2022

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The Fleurieu White House Karl Telfer: ‘The song of the land is the dance of the people’ Create your escape in Willunga Sea dragon at Middleton The healthy hedonist: Wellness travel Art · Design · Food · Wine · Fashion · Photography · People · Destinations

Sights & Gourmet Delights NEW 2-Day Kangaroo Island Tour

South Coast Savour the tastes and stunning sights of Kangaroo Island on this fantastic new two-day/one-night tour with Kangaroo Island Odysseys. Your local guide will take you on a personalised tour of Kangaroo Island, travelling in a luxury 4WD vehicle to see Australian sea lions, kangaroos, koalas, and native Australian birds all in pristine environments and natural habitats. You’ll also visit False Cape Cellar Door, KI Spirits Gin Distillery and the Oyster Farm Shop, explore some of the most famous beaches and natural attractions in Australia, such as Remarkable Rocks, Admirals Arch and Seal Bay, and visit the first lighthouse in South Australia at Cape Willoughby.

Call 08 8553 0386 or visit kiodysseys.com.au

South Coast

The colours of the Fleurieu in Autumn. Awesome!

Sarah Homes are number one for holiday homes and homes that make you feel like you’re on holiday. It’s easy to see why! With generous living areas and expansive decking they provide brilliant space for entertaining or relaxing. Wide opening sliding doors and full-length windows deliver wonderful views, like the vineyards in full Autumn splendour. They also let you retreat to sunlit comfort. We have a brand new range of 1 and 2 storey homes, ask for a brochure to view them all. Visit a Sarah Homes display village and discover just how easy it is to make the most of the Fleurieu’s Autumn weather.

Our display homes are open 7 days a week and are located at Mile End, Pooraka, Old Noarlunga and Victor Harbor. Visit our website for details. BLD 175837 Imagery for illustration purposes only.

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STAFF & CONTRIBUTORS

FLM Key Personnel Petra de Mooy Petra started her career as a furniture designer/maker, but always had aspirations to write so … why not start a magazine? Making the connections we’ve made and getting to know this region in-depth has been a gift. Jason Porter Jason has worked as a graphic designer and creative director both locally and overseas for over thirty years. When not in the office, he can usually be found tweaking the crossover filters on his ridiculously over-the-top audio system. Kate Le Gallez Kate started her working life as a lawyer and consultant, before turning to a lifelong love of writing. She confesses to suffering a mild podcast addiction, which results in her overuse of the phrase ‘I was listening to a podcast … ’ as a conversation starter. Holly Wyatt A self-described ‘city-escapee,’ Holly moved to the Fleurieu chasing wide-open spaces and the spoils of semi-rural life. Those spoils include a good coffee in the morning, a glass of wine in the evening and a bountiful supply of inspiration for her art, music and work. Lulu Our company mascot Lulu started appearing in way too many of our Instagram posts – so now she has her own profile (sad, we know) where you can follow her charmed life. Search ‘@miss_majestica’ if you’re so inclined.

Featured Contributors Meghan Carr Meghan is a Moana local with an affinity for yoga, hiking and fumbling words in her melodic Canadian accent. Meg loves a chat but prefers the space and freedom of composing words to express her thoughts. She recently resigned from her lifelong career in restaurants and now uses her hospitality experience as a muse for her writing (although she does miss eating gourmet food every day!) Fortunately, her partner is a fine cook who whips up decadent dinners, which Meg unapologetically drowns in Frank’s hot sauce.

Emma Masters Journalist and filmmaker Emma has returned to South Australia after spending more than a decade living in the Northern Territory and Southeast Asia. Her career has been dedicated to storytelling. She’s worked in publishing, radio and broadcast, both in front and behind the camera, and has spent a lot of time with film and television crews in some of the remotest corners of the planet. Emma also works independently – she shoots, writes, directs and edits. And recently she’s dipped her toes in podcasting. It’s her love of nature and the environment, good food and wine, and family that made the Fleurieu the obvious choice to settle on her return home.

Publisher Information Izzy McMillan Izzy has lived on the Fleurieu for over ten years, and loves being out and about meeting both the locals and visitors to the region. She thrives in busy environments, is a keen networker and is always ready for a wine and a chat. As a final year journalism student, she spends a lot of time between the city and home, but when she’s not writing you can find her at the top of Willunga Hill with her horses, or down at Southport for a surf. Her favourite part of the Fleurieu is the variety, specifically the ability to gallop around Kuitpo forest in the morning, and finish her day with a pizza in Aldinga.

Other contributing writers, photographers and stylists: Evan Bailey, Poppy Fitzpatrick, Kaylee Hooper, Zoë Kassiotis,Nina Keath, Mark Laurie, Heidi Lewis, Sam Marchetti, Joel Maung, Liza Reynolds, Heather Millar and Karl Winda Telfer.

PUBLISHER Fleurieu Living Magazine is published four times a year by Fleurieu Living Pty Ltd. ISSN 2200-4033 PUBLISHING EDITOR AND MANAGING DIRECTOR Petra de Mooy petra@fleurieuliving.com.au EDITOR Kate Le Gallez ADVERTISING SALES Holly Wyatt holly@fleurieuliving.com.au GRAPHIC DESIGNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jason Porter jason@fleurieuliving.com.au PRINTER Newstyle Print DISTRIBUTION Wrapaway SUBSCRIPTIONS Print: isubscribe.com.au Digital: zinio.com ALL ENQUIRIES Petra de Mooy petra@fleurieuliving.com.au POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 111, Aldinga, South Australia 5173. ONLINE fleurieuliving.com.au facebook.com/FleurieuLivingMagazine instagram.com/fleurieulivingmagazine/ COPYRIGHT All content copyright Fleurieu Living Magazine Pty Ltd unless otherwise stated. While Fleurieu Living Magazine takes every care to ensure the accuracy of information in this publication, the publisher accepts no liability for errors in editorial or advertising copy. The views of the contributors are not necessarily endorsed by Fleurieu Living Magazine. Printed on paper from well managed forests and controlled sources using environmentally friendly vegetable-based inks.

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THIS ISSUE

Contents

FLM

COVER FEATURE The Fleurieu White House.

TOWN FEATURE Create your escape in Willunga.

FRONT COVER PHOTO by Jason Porter.

FOOD, WINE & SPIRITS

FACES & PLACES

60 Local hero: Harry’s Garden at Wirra Wirra 52 Uncorked: Southern Rhone 86 Willunga Farmers Market Producer Profile: Harvest the Fleurieu

94 Bev MacInnes at Coco & Raj

NEW LOCALES 72 Fresh destinations

PENINSULA PEOPLE 48 Who we are: Josh Morphett, Space Jams 46 Who we are: Karena Armstrong, Expanding tastes 50 Who we are: Evie Harrison, Eve Bud Blooms 68 Fleurieu Future Leaders: Five years on 82 The Fleurieu through a local traveller’s eyes

34 FEATURE Karl Telfer: ‘The song of the land is the dance of the people.’

HOME FEATURE Sea dragon at Middleton.

ARTIST FEATURE Honor Freeman.

ART & DESIGN

BOOKS & WORDS

BEING SOCIAL

64 Ordinary, extraordinary: Honor Freeman

92 Autumn book reviews from South Seas Books 22 Poem: Zoë Kassiotis

100 FLM turns 10 at Oliver’s Taranga 104 Out and about: My Goolwa

24 Love and furniture: Huw McConachy 40 Let there be light: Bespoke makers

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

96 Photo from a reader

12 Diary dates to keep you busy this autumn 88 Tasting Australia’s Fleurieu events 98 Autumn events: Kangaroo Island

HEALTH & WELLBEING 78 Wellness travel: A healthy hedonist

WEDDING 102 Morgan and Arron Lyall – Chapel Hill 11th November, 2021

Let there be light. But not too much.

CURTAINS & BLINDS

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ACKNOWLEDGES

Our advertising partners A special thanks to the advertising partners that have made a long-term commitment to FLM. GOLD PARTNERS

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Mount Compass on 8 April (Bookings 03 9005 7750) Aquafest on Barrage Road, Goolwa on 8 and 9 April *Goolwa Art and Photographic Exhibition at Signal Point Gallery, Goolwa from 9 to 23 April *The Amazing Magic Mike - Kids Magic Workshops at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 17 April South Australian Wooden Boat Festival at the Goolwa Wharf Precinct on 22 and 23 April *Cole - starring Michael Griffiths at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 26 April

Silent Disco 4 Kids Party at Strathalbyn Library Community Centre on 27 April *Sista Girl, at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 5 May Our Mob 2015, Aboriginal arts at Signal Point Gallery, Goolwa from 5 May to 11 June Good Things Small Packages, at South Coast Regional Art Centre, Goolwa from 5 May to 18 June *Goodbye Yellow Brick Road - The Elton John Tribute Show at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 20 May * tickets/ booking required

www.visitalexandrina.com or call Council’s Visitor Information Centre on 1300 466 592. Alexandrina Council and culture program in 2017. View a copy online for more events in the region, www.alexandrina.sa.gov.au

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Welcome to FLM From our publishing editor Petra Many of you that have children will agree that navigating back to school with COVID-19 and all of the internal and external forces can be a bit much, but we hope this issue of FLM will give you all pause for thought – and a reason to feel good about the many good things we have on the peninsula. Winding down after our tenth anniversary edition this past summer felt like a good idea after a busy 2021 – and so we luxuriated in all that is on offer close to home – beaches, bike rides, Friday night wine-downs, even a bit of live music. We also spent time on the

river, staying at Goolwa South and experiencing the township from a tourist’s point of view. We discovered the Encounter Bikeway and visited the Mouth of the Murray River and enjoyed the local market and eateries. We can gush on a bit at times but we are ridiculously fortunate and feel grateful for where we live everyday without fail. We asked some of our contributors to send us a photo from their phones that they felt sums up Fleurieu Summer. What a joyful insight that was!

Clockwise from top left: ‘At the beach.’ Holly Wyatt. ‘Sundowners in my Frankie The Van at Moana –couldn’t get much better.’ Heidi Lewis. ‘Summer on the Fleurieu is letting the coastline’s limestone cliffs, turquoise water and browned hills fool us into believing we’re in the Mediterranean.’ Zoë Kassiotis. ‘Fishing at Myponga Beach.’ Nina Keath. ‘Watching the sunset at Port Willunga.’ Petra de Mooy. 11

DIARY DATES

Autumn Diary Dates MARKETS: Willunga Farmers Market Willunga High School Every Saturday, 8am – 12.30pm Come rain, hail or shine, enjoy fresh produce from more than eighty farmers and artisan food makers. Become a member for discounts on all your goods, and enjoy the nourishing community atmosphere every week.

Penneshaw Market Day Lloyd Collins Reserve/Penneshaw Oval First Sunday of each month including Easter Sunday, 10am – 2pm This market brings together the KI Farmers Market and the KI Community Market. Have brunch and enjoy Kangaroo Island’s top produce and a great village atmosphere by the beach. For discounted market ferry fares, visit sealink.com.au.

Willunga Quarry Market Adjacent to the Willunga Oval Second Saturday of each month, 8am – 12pm Browse through an eclectic mix of wares ranging from secondhand tools to plants and crafts.

Meadows Market Meadows Memorial Hall Second Sunday of every month, 9am – 2pm (returning April 11) A market focused on promoting community. Returning after Covid closure in 2020, the Meadows Market has something for everyone including plants, food, craft and much more.

Willunga Artisans and Handmade Market Willunga Show Hall Second Saturday of each month, 9am – 1pm An inspiring curated market showcasing local art and handmade goods. It’s a great place to buy a unique, handmade gift made from high quality materials. Goolwa Wharf Market First and third Sunday of every month, 9am – 3pm With around eighty stalls including collectables, fresh local produce, plants, books both new and old, unique artisan goods, loads of trinkets and delicious food and coffee, you will find a myriad of goodies at this market. Port Elliot Market Lakala Reserve Port Elliot First and third Saturday of each month, 9am – 2pm A classic country market with plenty of fresh local produce, plants, knick knacks, books, fishing gear, and even a two-dollar stall. Soak up the ambience and variety of wares both you and your dogs can enjoy.

Myponga Market The old Myponga Cheese Factory (next to Smiling Samoyed Brewery) Saturdays, Sundays and most public holidays, 9.30am – 4pm Browse a range of stalls, including art, books, ceramics, toys, records and collectables. There is also a variety of local food choices including baked goods and seasonal produce. Strathalbyn Market Next to the Gilbert’s Motor Museum on High Street Third Sunday of every month, 8am – 2pm A quaint, country-style market with bric-a-brac, local produce and condiments, crafts, plants, jewellery and much more. Yankalilla Craft and Produce Market Agricultural Hall Third Saturday of each month, 9am – 1pm This lesser-known market is a surprising gem offering homemade jams and preserves, delicious sweet treats, locally grown fruits and vegetables, plus craftwork, trinkets and unique gifts.

Victor Harbor Farmers Market Grosvenor Gardens, Victor Harbor Every Saturday, 8am – 12.30pm Spend the morning choosing from thirty plus stalls, with locally caught seafood, organic vegetables, seasonal fruit, local honey, mushrooms, fresh flowers, Fleurieu wines and much more.

Peninsula Providore Pop-Up Farm Shop Bull Creek Road, Tooperang First weekend of each month, 11am – 4pm Open for tastings and sales of Extra Virgin Olive Oil and other Peninsula Providore products. Drop by for a regional platter or tasting platter and enjoy the surrounds of the Nangkita Olive Grove along with wine by Precious Little.

Summer Twilight Markets Rotary Park, Christies Beach Fortnightly Fridays until the end of March, 5 – 9pm An evening of family fun, overlooking the ocean as the sun sets. Featuring live music, a bouncy castle, playground, face painting, a collection of local small businesses, food trucks and more.

Right: Detail of artwork by Ellen Trevorrow, ‘Interconnected stories’, 2021, is one of the many pieces on display at the Murray Bridge Regional Gallery from February 12 til April 10 during their ‘HARBINGERS: Care or Catastrophe’ exhibition.

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS: MARCH HARBINGERS: Care or Catastrophe Murray Bridge Regional Gallery February 12 – April 10 This collection of works by five diverse artists – Adelaide artist Laura Wills, Fleurieu artists Chris De Rosa, Lara Tillbrook, Clancy Warnerwith and Ngarrindjeri artist Ellen Trevorrow – draw attention to our inherent interconnectedness with the natural world and the complexities of humankind’s influences on our environments. Lions Community Fun Run at Normanville Normanville Beach March 13, 8 – 11am A fun, free event organised by volunteers to bring the community together to enjoy some exercise, friendly competition and good company. The fun run will offer various distances with both running and walking options, between Normanville Jetty and Haycocks Point, Carrickalinga. The Goolwa Caravan Garden of Honour, next to Goolwa RSL March 13, from 10.30am Join Lucky Sam as he introduces an array of acts that will delight audiences from age nine to ninety! Expect music, comedy and mindboggling acrobatics, then stay and enjoy a live music concert after the fun of the caravan.

The Red Hot Summer Tour Kent Reserve, Victor Harbor March 13, 1 – 10pm Join Hunters & Collectors, James Reyne, The Living End, Boom Crash Opera and many more ARIA Hall of Fame inductees at this must-see rock culture tour. Ready your fold-out chair and your voice – you won’t want to miss this. HELLO: Erin Jae’s – Tribute to Adele Centenary Hall, Goolwa March 18, 2pm Adele is one of the biggest names in the world of music with songs like ‘Someone Like You’, ‘When We Were Young’, ‘Hello’, and ‘Rolling in The Deep’ to name a few. Featuring Erin Sowersby as Adele and musical direction by Ray Lindon with their fabulous six-piece band. Bookings online. Friday Night Wine Down 192 Main Rd, Willunga March 18, 5.30 – 10pm Wine down with some fabulous pours from Vigna Bottin, beautiful Italian food from Chef Angelo and stellar entertainment from The Soprano’s accordion artists. >

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

APRIL Vale Polo Classic Park Dr, McLaren Vale April 2, 1 – 9pm Sip and munch on local produce as you enjoy the 20/20 style polo against the scenic backdrop of McLaren Vale. Two polo games will take you from afternoon to evening, with glorious foods and fashion to cater to all tastes. Tickets available online. Willunga Waldorf School Autumn Fair April 9, 10am – 4pm Come along and celebrate Waldorf education in Willunga with good food, live music, fun activities and local craft stalls. Meadows Easter Fair Mawson Road, Meadows April 15 – 18 An annual event held in and around the beautiful Meadows Hall over a four-day period. With stall holders from the Meadows area and the broader region, you’ll always find something new. Vogalonga Down Unda Goolwa Aquatic Club April 24, 9am Come along and row or paddle at your own pace in this regatta inspired by the famous Vogalonga in Venice, Italy. Scull or dragon boat? SUP or kayak? All are welcome, so long as your craft is human powered! Tasting Australia Fleurieu Peninsula April 29 – May 8 Tasting Australia brings together a full-bodied, locally grown program of activity. Long lunches, exclusive dinners, farm tours, tastings, masterclasses, sharing and conversation – they’re all there. See tastingaustralia.com.au/visit/regions/fleurieu-peninsula and page 88 for more information on what’s happening on the Fleurieu.

Southern Surf Festival Middleton Point April 29 – May 1 Head down to Middleton to watch the surfing state titles, eat and drink local food, try some art and craft and generally get involved in all things surf culture.

MAY Great Southern Half Marathon Myponga to Aldinga May 1, 7am – 12.30pm South Australia’s premier half marathon, 12K and 5K event with a stunning course taking in sections of scrub, wetlands, beach, esplanade and quiet back roads around Aldinga Bay. Event open to runners and walkers alike.

EARLY JUNE The Overwintering Project – The Bigger Picture Signal Point Gallery, Goolwa June 4 – July 4 A print-based exhibition curated by Bittondi Printmakers. The Bigger Picture is a South Australian perspective on the Overwintering Project, an Australia-wide series of exhibitions and regional activities that celebrate the miraculous journeys of migratory shore birds.

Below: Head down to Middleton on April 21 to May 1 to watch the surfing state titles.

The White House Story by Emma Masters. Photography by Jason Porter.

Page left: The Fleurieu White House. Above: Inside the house has many levels, with art, design and artefacts carefully selected. A great place to take advantage of the view of the beautiful bay below.

When you spot the Fleurieu White House from across the rugged bay it calls home, it’s obvious how it got its name. Cradled by the sweep of the surrounding hills, you could be forgiven for thinking it’s a traditional Aussie beach shack that’s had a fresh coat of white paint and a new deck built to take advantage of its idyllic, waterfront view. But step inside and you realise there’s so much more behind the bright, modest facade. Anne Taylor and Michael Buchtmann, the architectural duo behind Taylor Buchtman tasked with converting the rustic seaside getaway into a beautiful contemporary home, say that’s part of its unique charm. ‘Our brief was to keep a shack quality, but connect the house to the whole block,’ says Michael. ‘It was originally a two-bedroom shack at the front with a retaining wall, and that’s how it still reads from the street, but it’s actually more than doubled in size.’ Redesigned and rebuilt over two years and completed in 2019, the result is an innovative five-bedroom home that expands back to two storeys, and includes a separate art studio that hugs the back corner of the hillside block. From the front door, visitors are welcomed into an open living space, where wide picture windows put the stunning postcard location on full display. The owners say the front windows remind them of a Brett Whiteley painting that’s continually on the move. ‘We’ve been holidaying here since the kids were babies,’ the owner says. ‘The bay

itself has got this lovely aspect to it that lets kids play on the sand, and then as they grow up they learn to surf and go out on boats and go fishing. We can observe them and watch them play without being there all the time.’ The home retains the intimacy of the original shack, but there’s also room to allow large groups of people to gather and retreat, which the owners say was exactly what they asked for. ‘We wanted to be able to have lots of family, friends and their families stay and not feel on top of each other.’ ‘You know, you’ve got kids in the lounge room and we can be in the kitchen or they can go upstairs but still be with us,’ they continue. ‘We didn’t want to lose that relaxed feel about it, where you’ve got dogs coming through and kids with sandy feet, and we didn’t ever want to build something that lost its connection to its place, because it’s part of that shack history.’ >

Top: Custom-made tiles depicting local weather patterns and Moby Dick were designed and made for the kitchen and bathroom. Bottom: The bedrooms are designed to accommodate many guests with style but Why DO We Have TO Clean Before the Cleaners come? River stones and green bottle glass scattered throughout the concrete slab prior to polishing catch the light and add dimension.

Moving through the wooden-panelled hall, it’s evident the downstairs area is dedicated to hosting families. Two of the three cosy, beachstyled rooms come complete with built-in bunks, and the layout is serviced by a bathroom area formed by function but designed with flair. ‘We separated the different bathroom areas, so one person can be in the shower, another the toilet and two cleaning their teeth,’ says Michael. There’s also a distinctive outdoor shower to rinse off the day’s sand and salt, comprising a wall of bent copper pipe that absorbs the sun’s rays for heating and cleverly depicts a graph of twelve months of rainfall. ‘It’s a subtle reminder, because they’re not on mains water 18

here, it’s whatever they collect off the roof, so preservation of water is important,’ adds Anne. The landscape plan was developed by Taylor Buchtmann as part of a fully integrated indoor and outdoor architectural design. Anne says, ‘It’s one of the things that distinguishes our projects – addressing the whole – building, interiors, landscape, outdoor shower, tank locations and soakage trenches.’ When it came to plantings, the owners wanted to be as water and energy efficient as possible, choosing to work with their long-time collaborator and friend Greg from Marshall Garden Restoration. Greg was intricately involved in the selections and planting as well as the

Top left: The outdoor shower designed and made by architect Michael Buchtmann depicts a stylised annual rainfall chart of the local area. Top right: The limestone retaining wall has been carefully planted with water-wise plants. Bottom: Across the bridge to the second floor, with a view through to the bay.

ongoing development of the garden as a water-wise landscape. The owners love it, saying, ‘It’s the garden design as a whole returning friends are in awe of. Our delight is we don’t know what is planted in there ... but love the surprises as they flower.’ The garden is indeed the centrepiece. The rocks, the bridge and the outdoor shower transform an under utilised space into a dynamic and super functional design. Anne and Michael worked hard to ensure efficiencies throughout, saying, ‘The building is highly insulated, double-glazed with good cross ventilation. Its orientation to the north makes it ideal for harnessing the sun in winter, and excluding it in summer, and this

has been further exploited with overhangs and concrete floors to reradiate the heat on winter evenings.’ Set back from the front of the house, the upstairs level features a double bedroom, sitting room and balcony, and an adjoining master bedroom with retro-inspired ensuite. It’s a space that offers refuge and welcomes a variety of perspectives, from broad views of the remote bay among the Fleurieu hills to a novel, hatch-door window that allows a view from front to back. A wooden bridge from this upper level offers another access point and view to the landscaped garden, where a retaining wall has been created using large limestone rocks transported from the owners’ > 19

Page left top: Functional spaces throughout echo the owners desire for a very functional but stylish outcome. Page left bottom: The Murphy bed is cleverly concealed – just pull on the axe in the head of the painting and you can rest at ease in the studio. This page: A bridge from the upper level offers another access point to the studio and view to the beautifully landscaped garden.

farm. ‘I love watching people come through the front room and then they get into the kitchen, go through that little tiny corridor and go, “Oh my god, there’s still more”.’ the owners say. ‘From the front to the back, you get these lovely little pockets or insights that just remind you to be present and enjoy what’s around.’ Enjoying life is part of the ethos of this home – where you can slow down and unplug, where phones are switched off and music is enjoyed on a record player. It’s also a home where art is celebrated, not only on the walls but in the very fabric of the house and garden. Collaborating with a printmaker friend, custom-made tiles were designed and made for the kitchen and bathroom. ‘We wanted to weave in local history, and being farmers and with our son obsessed with fishing, we’re always watching weather patterns, so that went into the design,’ the owner says. ‘We also used typography to reflect some of the things we’ve shouted out here, like “shut the door”, “can you flip a record”, or “put a hat on”.’ Other creative features include a plasma-cut steel fence depicting underwater swimmers, and small items, such as dice or a Christmas

bonbon toy, set in resin and dotted around the recycled wooden decking. ‘We’ve got so many talented, fabulous friends and we’ve had so much fun here over the years,’ the owner laughs. ‘Everyone gave something that was connected to their time here.’ The architects also utilised brass pipe that had personal significance to the family. ‘My dad always used his hands and recycled materials and they were salvaged back in the eighties,’ the owner explains. ‘I still touch the brass handrail as I go upstairs and it just reminds me of him, so it’s just that little bit of connection again.’ The outcome of this collaborative approach to the redesign and build is evident not only in the one-of-a-kind result, but in the ongoing relationship between the architects and the owners. ‘The way we work is to be very responsive to the client and the location – and we enjoy projects that have strong stories about our clients within them,’ says Anne. ‘There’s also joy in seeing them move in and make the space their own. They talk about it being like an heirloom – as something they will come to for the rest of their lives and for their kids to keep coming to.’ 21

Aloft limestone coast by Zoë Kassiotis

I sit alone but I am not lonely along cliffs that gaze to elsewhere coastal hues keep me company aloft a limestone hill where vines dance to the sea I bask in the purity of unspoiled pine trees the grass suns itself brown ochre hills stretch their wings I lower myself into a crevasse where unsociable serenity sings lone trees stand guard they whisper and entwine a sea breeze language music to my mind I wish I could speak with the ocean tell her that her blue beauty is everything she’s an escape and she’s home maybe the cliffs know

Love and furniture Story by Nina Keath. Photography by Jonathan van der Knaap.

Page left: In process – Huw’s salt & pepper mills. Above: Huw and Steph at his Factory 9 furniture studio, Made By Making. Huw’s workshop has become a place of healing and contemplation after he and his wife Steph lost their first child, Arthur William McConachy, soon after his birth one year ago.

I meet furniture designer and maker Huw McConachy at his Made By Making studio in Port Elliot’s Factory 9 precinct on a day of summer rain. The warm air draws out the luscious scents of timber and oils, while the clouddimmed light lends his workshop an aura that feels almost sacred. I soon understand that this feeling is not created by weather and light alone. Huw’s workshop has become a place of healing and contemplation after he and his wife Steph lost their first child, Arthur William McConachy, soon after his birth one year ago. It’s been a gruelling year and Huw’s studio and the community within which it’s housed, have been at the heart of his healing. ‘When we returned from hospital, the community and everyone from Factory 9 had set up an esky outside our house and fed us for three months. Danny and MaryAnn, the owners of Factory 9, gave us rent relief. Helen from the Pilates studio taught me mindfulness – I would have

lost my mind without those techniques,’ Huw recalls as we cradle coffees from Factory 9 neighbour DeGroot Coffee. Gazing out at the grey sky he muses, ‘So many people wouldn’t have the luxury to grieve properly – they don’t have the time, the support, or the finances – but our community have given us that and I’m so grateful.’ Part of Huw’s grieving process has involved retreating to his workshop and focusing on smaller, repetitive projects. ‘My salt and pepper mills are meditative to make,’ he says. ‘It’s soothing when you can do something that you love and then you get to sell it yourself.’ Huw credits his wife Steph, a senior marketing executive, with having the business brain that has enabled him to sell what he loves: ‘I was burning offcuts from table legs and Steph challenged me to find a way to use them. She suggested I try some homewares.’ So, Huw bought a second-hand lathe and made thirty salt and pepper mills until he found a design he liked. Steph then pushed him to promote it and after four or five Instagram posts the mills ‘went ballistic!’ Huw is now selling them around the world. He is immensely proud of the way Steph has used her drive and expertise to not only support him and his work but also to channel her grief into their charity, Arthur’s Fund, raising much needed > 25

Above: The repetitive task of making is meditative and a process that Huw finds cathartic.

funds for neonatal units. An initial fundraising goal of $1,000 set by an overseas friend wanting to help has been eclipsed by the more than $84,000 now raised by the couple. Huw feels that by sharing his grief in an honest and open way he can partly repay the community’s generosity. He reflects, ‘I feel like I’ve had a lifetime of knowledge rammed into one year and I’m so grateful for Steph and everyone here. So many people don’t share this stuff because there’s so much shame and pain. If you break a leg, people can see it but the pain from losing a child is hidden and needs to be actively shared. It’s painful but I’m happy to share.’ In terms of what comes next, Huw doesn’t profess to have a grand vision. He’d like to keep raising money for Arthur’s Fund and he’d like to work on some tables and smaller pieces to sell locally – pieces of beauty, crafted for longevity. ‘I just want to be happier, and I want Steph to be happier,’ he says simply. Huw’s love and appreciation for his wife runs like a golden thread through our conversation. She may have had the marketing nous to help Huw find his design niche, but her insight reaches far deeper: 26

‘She sees something in me that I haven’t always seen,’ he says. After Arthur’s death, Huw has felt his self-perception shifting and he’s starting to appreciate what Steph has known all along. ‘In some ways, I lost a lot of confidence when Arthur died, but it’s forced me to work on myself, which has also made me stronger,’ he says. ‘I have lost a lot of innocence, but I know myself better now and I think this will be reflected in my work. I feel a seed of something inside, but I can’t define it. I think it was always there and I know something awesome will come out. I just don’t know when or how.’ Later that day, as I drive north along the winding road from Port Elliot, I can’t help but turn Huw’s words over in my mind. While Steph and the Port Elliot community may be the fertile ground that has helped to nurture and support Huw’s inner seed, it occurs to me that Arthur’s death is the fire that has cracked its hard kernel and begun the growth process. I pull over to the side of the road and silently send Huw a wish for continued growth and healing. Donations to Arthur’s Fund can be made at: https://inmemoriam.flindersfoundation.org.au/ arthurwilliammcconachy or @arthurs_fund on Instagram

DESTINATION FLEURIEU

Create your escape > Willunga

Story by Izzy McMillann

There’s something about Willunga. Its understated charms draw you in, encourage you to slow down and stay a while. It’s organic and curious, rather than brash and boastful, much like the farmers market it’s become famous for.

Above: Gerard at Russell’s Pizza. Photo courtesy of Josie Withers.

EAT & DRINK: While many come for the fresh produce Housed in the historic 1850s butcher’s shop, de Rose Kitchen at the Saturday market, there’s more than brings in the coffee crowd and tempts them to stay with delicious enough to fill your whole day, or weekend. meals like maple bacon French toast or sriracha scrambled eggs Venture to mouth-watering cafes, quirky with kimchi. This family-owned cafe champions fresh local produce and treats its customers like their family friends dropping round for stores filled with unique, handcrafted a cuppa. The outdoor seating is pup friendly, and a seat beneath treasures, and nod hello to some of the the yellow and white striped umbrellas is a beautiful spot to ponder kindest people you will meet. Have a drink where you’ll head next. at the pubs (bottom, middle or top?) or Not far down the street is Russell’s, a Willunga institution. Large cellar doors, and find yourself some unique slate tiled floors with lead-glass lights dangling from the old ceiling jewellery or art to bring home. Willunga create a warm and welcoming atmosphere. With relaxed dining and the occasional space open to hold functions and weddings, the has it all. team at Russell’s are known far and wide for their delicious woodfired fare, backed up with a variety of local wines.

The Green Room is a must-see for everything organic. A favourite with the locals, this bustling café offers all kinds of goodies from breakfasts to on-the-go snacks. It’s vegetarian and vegan friendly, and caters to all kinds of specific dietary needs. With a range of beautiful fresh breads and roasted coffee beans for sale, there’s no 28

Top and above left: Mandy at de Rose Kitchen, where good coffee and good people meet. Above right and below: Fresh baked bread and delicious nutritious offerings abound at The Green Room.

need to look any further for your home essentials. The perfect place to meet friends for coffee, and stay for an organic lunch. Cupcake cravings can be satisfied at Tealicious, surrounded by pink walls and vintage fine china. Newly opened Muni is a wine aficionado’s dream with a curated selection of natural wines complemented with the chefs beautifully presented and delicious menu. And don’t forget to stop in for a chat and a freshly baked muffin at the Willunga General Store.

DRINK: Explore and imbibe the best the town has to offer with Willunga Wander, a walking and hosted wine tasting experience developed by Aphelion, Hither & Yon and Battle of Bosworth. Beginning your trek in the morning, you’ll find yourself immersed in wine culture throughout the day, seeing Willunga through a winemaker’s eyes while exploring the beauty of the Fleurieu. Starting at Aphelion, enjoy a glass of ‘bottled sunshine’ in their heritage-listed cellar door. Rob and Louise Mack love sharing their wines with the world, and enjoy giving their customers a personalised experience. The couple say, ‘It’s so rewarding for us to see folk enjoying our wines first hand.’ > 29

Top and bottom left: Collect your Willunga Wander map for a unique wine tour through historic Willunga. Bottom right: Winemaker Rob Mack will take you through a personalised tasting at Aphelion. Photos this page and top and bottom right on next page by Jack Fenby.

A short walk brings you to your second door of the tour. Picture mulled wine by the fireplace in winter, or prosecco in the sunshine in summer. Hither & Yon offers a unique wine tasting experience against a heritage backdrop featuring original slate floors and limestone walls. Brothers Richard and Malcom Leask put concern for the environment and sustainability at the heart of their winemaking. Their focus on sustainable practices and biodiversity means you can sip on a rosé knowing that the wellbeing of the planet at Hither & Yon is of utmost importance. A twenty-minute walk beneath the trees leads to your final location on the Willunga wine tour. Battle of Bosworth creates certified organic wines from the beautiful Bosworth family vineyard. Winemaker Joch Bosworth took the reins from his parents in 1995 and began transforming the estate to organic growing. With wife Louise Hemsley-Smith’s sales and marketing nous, the winery’s care for what’s in the bottle is showcased through thoughtful design across their three labels: Spring Seed, Bosworth and Springs Road on Kangaroo Island.

SHOP: No trip down the High Street is complete without exploring the old cottage stores to find something unique to bring home. Morocco by Mish is your one-stop-shop for eclectic, brightly coloured Moroccan treasures. Owned by the wonderful Mish, her collection of imported goods including rugs, bags, jewellery, cushions and clothing is one of a kind. Mish, who spent many years living in Morocco, is a kind and bubbly personality who always endeavours to make sure you find something to fit your home space perfectly. Kookery is home to a large range of cool, quirky items that will help you create a kitchen space that’s as unique as you are. Amy has designed a store that allows her customers to see themselves in the things she sells. From printed totes to gardening tools, to coffee beans and bread making bowls, no matter your culinary passion, Kookery has something for everyone. >

Top: Wine-tasting at Hither & Yon comes with delicious food and a character-filled environment. Bottom left: The carefully curated products at Kookery will always retrieve a result for gardeners, foodies and wine and spirits lovers alike. Middle right: Woven lamp shades and hats, jewellery and homewares are just some of the unique offerings at Morocco by Mish. Bottom right: The delightful labels are in sync with the delicious wine at Battle of Bosworth. 31

Top left: Fabrics, pillows, homewares and more at Coco & Raj. Top right: Unique jewellery and clothing designs all designed in house at séjour club. Bottom left: Unique art and artisan products at Willunga Gallery. Bottom right: Jungle in Willunga has an extensive (and we mean EXTENSIVE) collection of pots, plants and all your gardening needs. Don’t forget to bring bring the kids for a play in the jungle!

A little further up the hill, Bev’s Remnant House is filled to the brim with bright, colourful, designer upholstery fabrics. Explore the other side of Bev’s beautiful business by having a wander through the adjoining Coco & Raj. Bev’s carefully chosen pieces honour traditions of Indian artistry, and reflect the beauty only hand-made treasures can deliver. Retail therapy in the form of fashion can be found at séjour club. Their range of unique clothing and jewellery takes inspiration from the beautiful world around us and their accessory range is handcrafted out of natural minerals, fibres and upcycled fabrics, all designed by owners Sam and Sven. An absolute must visit for any fashion lover. 32

Nearby, the Willunga Gallery beautifully depicts the work of both local and interstate artists, designers and craftspeople. The ambience of the old cottage lures you in to discover their range of Australian ceramics, textiles, artwork, jewellery and more. Before you head out of town, swing into Jungle in Willunga and wander among the wide range of bamboo, palms and tropical plants on offer to help you make your tropical dream garden a reality. With pots, plants, garden features, baskets and much more, there’s something to satisfy all gardeners. It’s also a wonderful place to take the kids, with tunnels of bamboo and palm trees open for exploration, and hidden animals to spot.

‘Spirit of place’

‘The song of the land is the dance of the people’ Words by Karl Winda Telfer.

Page left: Kanyanyapilla (L50K), McLaren Vale. A Bicultural, Cultural and Ecological Renewal and Regeneration Project. This page: Burka – Senior man, Karl Winda Telfer holding the ceremonial Palyatatta, honouring the peace lore of Tjilbruke/Tjirbruki at Karkungga – Red Ochre Cove.

Ngai icharlee – Greetings friends. My name is Karl Winda Telfer. My traditional name is Winda Kudnuitya which means third born owl. I grew up here on this land, sea and sky country. The language from my tongue holds a song of my spirit of place. This is a deep story of connection I carry from birth in my bloodline/ family clan. My mother Georgina Williams-Nganki Burka Mekauwe always spoke to me of this: who I am, where I come from and to not forget the old ways of our people. I’m the first generation born off the mission. In my early years, we lived in Old Noarlunga – in Malpas Street right near the river, Ngankiparri (Onkaparinga River). I spent the first five years of my life living in that old red brick house with my mum and my three older siblings. Back then, there were only a handful of houses on Malpas and only one street light. This is where walking over country began for me. Mum would take us kids down to the river often and talk about the river and how we needed to always respect the water because it’s alive and lives in us. Mum’s traditional name is ‘Nganki Burka Mekauwe’ which means senior woman of water. She will be the only one who will carry this ceremony, because it’s her spirit that dwells in the river. Her granddaughters will carry her wisdom and her name forward to continue the memory song of their grandmother.

I remember, as a little fulla, walking nigadee tjina (barefoot) through the Ngaltingga Mullawirra (Aldinga Scrub) with Mum and she would stop and sing out while we’d be walking and I wondered what she was doing, as I stood beside her holding her hand. I remember she would always have a walking stick and point to the traces and tracks on the ground, the flowers and the plants and trees. When we were about halfway into the Mullawirra (dry forest), she would say, ‘Stop now, sit down, be still and listen.’ After about five minutes she would ask, ‘Whose spirit lives here?’ then ‘Can you hear them?’ then she would say, ‘This is where our families’ song lives and breathes’ and then she would say, whilst drawing a circle in the sand with her stick, ‘The song of the land is the dance of the people’ then she would turn to me and say, ‘Do you see it my little spirit boy?’ and I would just look at the sand then to her and nod my head and say, ‘Yes Mum.’ She taught me how to read country, listen to country and walk softly with the wind of our ancestors. I carry all her teachings, knowledge and wisdom with me to this day. I always will, ’cause my country is in my blood. She talked about us living in two worlds, the world of our old people – the circle – and the western world of the square. I talk about this often, when I do cultural training or doing a Tirkandi sharing tour and in meetings to impart knowledge and wisdom to educate and share our ways of understanding with all generations of our human family. When Mum looked after my Poppa (grandfather) we would often travel out to many places on country. Sometimes when we were > 35

Above: Nganki Burka Mekauwe – Senior Woman of Water, Georgina Yambo Williams speaking spirit at the official opening of the Tjirbruki narna arra – Tjirbruki Gateway, at Warriparringa. Dedicated on the 30th October 1997 by his Excellency Sir William Deane, Governor General of Australia. Photo included with the express permission of Karl Winda Telfer.

driving he would start singing in a low voice and he’d often direct which way he wanted Mum to go. When he visited Mullawirra, his country, he spoke about this place from memory as a young boy and his connection to the old people and his spiritual ancestors of country. It’s these stories that connect me and my bloodline to this place, my grandfather’s country, mullawirrayerta (dry forest country). In the time of woltatti (summer time) Mum would take us kids, me and all the cousins, and head west down Beach Road towards Wonggayerlo, the coastline. First thing she would do is line us all up on the beach and we’d have a running race which she won most of the time. We would go collect periwinkles, and my older cousins would go spear fishing for nudli or kainbarra, butter fish, to share with the old people and our families. Mum took me travelling country following the song line of the Tjirbruki/ Tjilbruke Dreaming Track and talking about the spirit of place and the Peace Lore as we moved along the journey from one place to the next. This started for me when I was nine years old. She took me walking on country while she was working hard to draw this ancient spirit song up from the ground to wake the people up. My memory of this began in the seventies and in the eighties she led the placing of the Tjirbruki/Tjilbruke cultural markers (cairns) along the coastline in 1986. She said that this was for our cultural and spiritual 36

renewal and for the children that are coming tomorrow. This became her life’s work which spanned more than fifty years. Mum’s still respectfully acknowledged today by our people as a spiritual and cultural leader and our family is recognised as the holders of the Tjirbruki/Tjilbruke song line. The Peace Lore fire has now been passed to me and I carry it with respect, wisdom and cultural and spiritual integrity. In the late eighties and early nineties, Mum was at Warriparringga working with our family and our people to bring everyone together, to come home to our spiritual ways and to unfold the sacred significance of that place in the Tjirbruki/Tjilbruke story. This is where the language first came back home and I started to begin to speak words and revive the old language of our old world, out in the natural world from where it was first born. Mum said that she remembered hearing her grandfather speaking language on Pt Pearce Mission and from that she said follow our ceremony to our related people whose language has not been broken and if the women recognise your tongue, even just some of the language, then you know that you’re on the right track as the women are our first speakers. Warriparringga was where I first started speaking and teaching our dialectal language on the country where my language comes from.

Above: Burka – Karl Winda Telfer – Cultural and Spiritual Renewal, at the beginning of the 2010 Adelaide Fringe Parade.

We formed the Tjilbruke Theatre Dancers and became the first full Kaurna Meyunna Family Clan to come back to country to revive our language, cultural practices and ceremonies at Warriparringga. This was the first time in more than one hundred years that our family was able to come home to sing in our language, dance on our country, to honour and respect our ancestors and the Peace Lore of Tjirbruki/ Tjilbruke. This was the first time we made the fire the old way, no matches, no lighters, ‘cause the old people are always watching and if we are to honour our ancestors it has to be done the proper way, the old way using the fire sticks. I had to earn the cultural right to practise, along with the knowledge and wisdom of the spirit fire. One of my uncles taught me some of the language of fire and those who have shared in these ceremonies know this. Mum said, ‘Healing can only come from truth.’ These gatherings that Mum led at Warriparringga with her family and her people opened a conversation with the Marion City Council and they walked towards our people and became involved, especially Don Chapman. With a Federation Grant in 2001, Mum collaborated with Phillips Pilkington architects to co-design and build the Living Kaurna Cultural Centre (LKCC) with the intention that our people and community could come home to country freely.

Mum talked about creating a Tjirbruki/Tjilbruke gateway to create a place of arrival where people would wait and be called in through the gateway and onto country. She and Don pushed for a Cultural Artwork to be funded to tell the story of our recovery and that’s when Mum met Gavin Malone, one of the artists chosen to work biculturally on the Tjirbruki/Tjilbruke Gateway at Warriparringga. Our family started working with Gavin from then on. Our bicultural relationship started through ways of understanding and respecting the Peace Lore song of Tjirbruki/Tjilbruke. This was the time when Mum lit the first spirit fires that burned for seven days and seven nights continuously with her eldest son George, with the support of Gavin and myself. This was when the cultural sharing began, forming around the spirit fire and then the full moon friendship fires. This cultural and spiritual renewal continues today on our clan country at Lot 50-Kanyanyapilla (L50K) in the Willunga Basin. In 2002 I was approached by Peter Sellars, the Artistic Director of the Adelaide Festival to join his team of creatives and I became the first Aboriginal Associate Director of the Adelaide Festival of the Arts. The first in the Adelaide Festival’s long history, so it was breaking new ground. I soon had my sister join the circle and we created Kaurna Palti Meyunna – the song of the people. This was held in the symbolic heart of the City of Adelaide – Victoria Square. I wanted to reclaim > 37

Above: Jakirah and Tikana Telfer – the granddaughter’s of Nganki Burka Mekauwe – Georgina Yambo Williams. They now carry the sacred ceremony of Ngankiparri Mekauwe which was passed down to them from their grandmother.

our space and have our first peoples from around Australia and the world recognised for the culture we carry and begin the healing of all our peoples who were still carrying the trauma from the colonial hurts of the past. It was hard working in the square wanting to bring a renewed cultural understanding through the form of our sacred circle. We did it though and there has been nothing like it since. I have been back down working on my southern country for some time now and I have begun to forge respectful working relationships with some of the land stewards. As inaugural Chairperson of the First Nations Peoples Advisory Group at the Onkaparinga Council, I work with Council and the wider community to bring deeper knowledge of country and strong cultural leadership to create better ways of understanding so we can bring the circles and square together. We are walking softly and moving slowly, we are finding common ground, as we walk together at the pace of trust. 38

My family’s partnership with Gavin Malone continues at Lot 50 Kanyanyapilla, where I seek spiritual, cultural, ecological and economic renewal. Sadly my mum passed late last year and the cultural legacy has now been passed to me. The cultural responsibility I now carry is being passed on to her granddaughters, grandsons and our family clan Mullawirrameyunna, the dry forest people. Come and walk with us and sit with us by the fire and listen to the stories from my country, the southern Kaurna Meyunna yerta – southern Kaurna country. Nukkada ngai icharlee – Until our paths meet my friends. ‘Spirit of place’ ‘The song of the land is the dance of the people.’ Traditional oral history from her clan – Nganki Burka Mekauwe – Senior Woman of Water, Georgina Yambo Williams.

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Let there be light Story by Zoë Kassiotis. Photography by Jason Porter.

Page left: Two large pendants are complemented with two beautifully crafted plasma-cut car bonnets. Top: The immersive experience of the A Small Art Factory’s Lit Exhibition at the Fleurieu Arthouse is immersive – and includes cool tunes plus a large collection of the artists’ bespoke lighting. Bottom: Spring Garden. A repurposed wine barrel ring is brought to life and illuminated by a concealed LED.

Where there’s light, there’s enrichment of life. Done right, interior lighting can be a focal point and a conversation piece, working as a functional and aesthetic enhancement of our living and working spaces.

Warren Pickering and Anna Small are the husband and wife team behind A Small Art Factory. The imaginative duo have been marrying elements of delicate nature, hard steel and warm light to create a collection of dynamic lighting pieces. Anna owns and runs the Fleurieu Arthouse, which is where we meet while their immersive lighting exhibition, Lit, is in full swing. ‘Our teenage son goes around referring to things being lit if they’re really good, so that kind of inspired the name,’ Warren chuckles.

Design experts are predicting that 2022 is the year of bespoke and designer lighting schemes that combine technical aspects with decorative effects. SA local artists and designers are part of the movement, making their own modern, limited production interpretations of designer lighting trends. There’s something to be said for the talented creatives who are producing functional art that inspires, even when turned off.

Warren first started producing lighting pieces out of necessity for the Arthouse. He was shocked by the price of pendant lights and so resorted to crafting his own. But it was the couple’s earlier trip to Morocco that flicked the initial switch. Along with more rugs and homewares than four hands could carry, Warren and Anna returned with an appreciation for detailed pendant lights. >

Page left and above: Bernie’s Papier lights at her hair salon /shop – Rollo at Factory 9, Port Elliot.

This mix of inspiration, innovation and ten-hour days over the festive period culminated in something magical. Every piece has its own imprint and tells a story by throwing out light. The distinctive shadows, shapes and textures dance together in a way that feels transformative. Warren’s Kangaroo Paw pendant – made from hand cut aluminum – transports me to rocky outback hikes. ‘The light projected onto its surroundings really makes a space come alive,’ Warren says. While Anna opts to create more floral, birds-and-the-bee designs, Warren described his style as more decorative. ‘I intend my pieces to be raw and organic in the way that they explore the relationship between the light, texture and movement,’ he says. ‘The wall hangings specifically explore textural elements because I wanted them to move as the perspective changes and feel handmade in the details.’ Ordinarily artists working with metal would transition from hand to laser cut methods, but in this case, Warren and Anna have gone back to crafting entirely by hand – a steady one at that. Each light hanging seamlessly welds contradictions between night and day, heavy metals and soft lines, big impact and intricate detail. Warren works tirelessly to classical music after inspiration strikes. ‘I go for daily beach walks down at Moana beach and often pick up a shell, some seaweed or an urchin and take ideas from just one tiny section that I like,’ Warren explains.

When I ask Warren what makes his pieces more meaningful than a bulk production light he tells me the importance of buying bespoke, limited production pieces is really up to the buyer: ‘Once a piece is finished in my mind it’s already someone else’s and they decide what it means to them.’ Anna adds that this meaning gives handcrafted goods value, ‘There’s a special story cut into each one.’ She envisions their pieces being a focal point of outdoor entertaining areas. The visionary couple say their metal art is made with love, grunt and sweat, but it’s the love stories of reclaimed materials, beach walks and hands creating to classical music that sing out to me. The multidisciplinary team at Adelaide design firm Enoki specialises in visual communication and interior architecture. A commitment to constantly exploring new directions led to a design collaboration with designer Vi Nguyen in 2009 – a sophisticated partnership that culminated in Enoki’s alluring Cumulus pendants. Enoki likens the experience of gazing up at their Cumulus pendants to laying on one’s back outside and imagining the possibilities of a cloud’s form. Susanna Bilardo, Enoki designer and director, and office manager Nina Begini said the cloudscape through Adelaide’s city skyline inspired the dynamic design. ‘The lights give a city vibe, but one that exists in harmony with nature,’ Susanna says. The pendants are an effortlessly slick approach to designer lighting; their plywood structures are elegantly functional, their beauty only enhanced by their cotton and linen veil. > 43

Above: Enoki’s Cumulus Pendant light in muslin. Things dreams are made of – soft diffused light – looks so good. Photo courtesy of Enoki.

Simply lifting this dream-like cloak reveals the polished beauty of Enoki’s Cumulus Nude Pendant. These contemporary lights were created as an extension of the original design and are available in natural ply, black and white – a clean colour scheme that allows the angular structure to make a statement. ‘Both designs are intended to fulfill the contradiction by being industrial, while remaining organic in nature,’ Nina explains. Use of clever, indirect lighting pieces like Enoki’s designs are key to achieving that ‘wow factor’ in the home spaces we’re spending so much time in. ‘We just want to make sure that lighting is really considered, rather than an afterthought because it is such a crucial element,’ Susanna says. ‘Whether it’s a simple piece or an intentional feature, the fact that you’re purchasing an original piece holds unique value.’ Bernadette Kelly’s lightbulb moment came while seated under the designer lights she and her partner had ordered from Spain. A creator and collector, Bernie felt inspired to create her own light fittings, combining papier mache and plaster to create textured, raw shapes. Her lamps are fittingly called Papier in an ode to the ancient art of

layering paper and other materials. ‘Both rough and elegant, my lamps are a visible nod to nature,’ she says. Hanging in harmony with their natural environment, Bernie’s organic lights are perfectly at home here on the coast and can be found adorning the stairwells of local homes or admired at Valley of Yore in Myponga and her Port Elliot salon, Rollo. There’s a real sense that the earthy lamps are shaped in a way that encourages us to shine a light on natural imperfections. Every Papier lamp is uniquely made to order. Bernie sits down to begin the process by discussing design, space and colour options with those interested in her bespoke creations. The final coat of plaster – used to give that chalky finish – can be mixed with paint to achieve anything from a statement colour dipped around the rim to a terracotta look, Bernie explains. Standing under the three white Papier lights at Valley of Yore while ordering a chai floods one with warm childhood memories of balloons hugged in layers of watery glue-soaked newspaper. It’s remarkable to note the way talented locals are designing pieces that bring warmth, comfort and openness into our spaces – positively impacting the quality of our lives one light at a time.

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WHO WE ARE

WHO WE ARE: Karena Armstrong

Expanding tastes Story by Emma Masters. Photograph by Heidi Lewis.

Award-winning chef and restaurateur Karena Armstrong has been on a decade-long mission to create cuisine that celebrates what she calls the three Ps – place, produce and people – of the Fleurieu Peninsula. This year, she’s expanding her passion and desire to celebrate everything local in her new role as co-director of the premier eating and drinking festival Tasting Australia. For those who know the vibrant, driving force behind the Salopian Inn, which Karena co-owns with sommelier Alex Marchetti, her nomination for the prestigious role may seem like a no-brainer, but she says it came as a shock. ‘I’m still amazed they asked me to do it. I was actually speechless, which doesn’t really happen that often,’ Karena explains with a laugh. ‘I’ve been involved with Tasting Australia since 2014 and been an ambassador quite a few times, so I have insight into the festival, but never at this level.’ Karena has travelled the world chasing her culinary dreams before finding resounding success on her return to the region of her childhood. So it’s surprising to learn she initially felt nervous about stepping into the shoes of world-class chefs who’ve held the role. ‘I just never would have thought I was the right person for the job, looking from the outside in, but now I’m doing the job, it just aligns with my philosophy – it’s more than just the cooking and the chefs, it’s about people, the places, and particularly our producers and really highlighting what we do here in South Australia,’ she says. ‘I was born on the Fleurieu and have a real connection through to producers and have so much respect for what they do, and Tasting Australia as a festival pays great respect to them and includes them in the conversation about food in our state.’ Curating the festival’s program is no small feat and Karena has worked tirelessly with her festival co-director Darren Robertson, drinks curator Nick Stock and food curator Emma McCaskill to create the largest-ever program with more than 200 events being held across South Australia. She’s particularly proud of the diverse range of experiences on offer, from the Town Square Kitchen in Adelaide’s CBD to destination events in Coffin Bay, the Flinders Ranges and Coober Pedy. These sit alongside a range of unforgettable fine-dining experiences, including

SA legends tribute events celebrating Cheong Liew and Maggie Beer, as well as weekend extravaganzas, lunches, tasting tables and masterclasses. ‘What’s also really great to see is the growth in the cheaper, more family-friendly, more accessible events,’ she says. ‘I’ve got my own family and understand that a $250 ticket is a really special night out, and that you might also want to do something with your children, so there are also lots of events that are affordable.’ It’s also an opportunity for Karena to help bring attention to an issue close to her heart. She’s collaborated with SA chef Kane Pollard and NSW’s Ben Devlin to offer Wasted, a four-course dinner serving up dishes made from ingredients often thrown away in the kitchen. ‘It’s one of my big passion projects as obviously restaurants can be quite hedonistic – we’re there for people’s pleasure – and there’s all this food wasted traditionally,’ Karena explains. ‘I just wanted to highlight a no-waste approach and work with two chefs who’ve been quite inventive in this space, where the food in front of you will look like a fine-dining plate, but we’re going to make it from leftovers and bits, and you’ll never know.’ ‘I’m making tiramisu where I’m going to McLaren Vale’s Never Never Distillery to get the spent products from making gin to make syrups. And instead of buying in cream I’m getting local whey, which is a by-product of cheesemaking which often ends up in the waterways and gets thrown down sinks, and makes this light, cheesy fantastic mousse,’ Karena continues. ‘The tiramisu will have loads of luxury moments, but it’s just been thought about and that’s what the dinner is about – thinking about how we’re behaving around food.’ There are also high hopes the festival will provide a much-needed boost for an industry that has been hit hard in the coronavirus pandemic. ‘The restrictions have hurt – it has impacted suppliers, it has impacted casual workers who normally would have lots of work at this time of year and don’t have as much,’ she says. ‘Naturally, as a COVID safe event, we’re guided by SA Health and while we hope events don’t have to be cancelled we have refund policies in place. I’m hoping it goes really well because it’ll support the whole industry and hopefully we’re making our way out of this pandemic.’ Taking it back to the region she knows best, Karena said the 21 events offered on the Fleurieu reflect a region that continues to mature and grow. ‘We’ve done an amazing job of building a food community that now supports our producers and our community supports us really well,’ she says. ‘We have such a diverse offering and the festival will showcase some of the best the region has to offer.’

Above: Karena Armstrong, award-winning chef and restaurateur is this year’s co-director of Tasting Australia.

WHO WE ARE

WHO WE ARE: Josh Morphett

Space Jams Story by Poppy Fitzpatrick. Photograph by Jason Porter.

Over the past two years, the notion of ‘space’ has significantly evolved in meaning. As I sit and write in the midst of a period of mandated isolation, space has come to represent a challenging separation from some basic pleasures: interaction, freedom, dancing and connection. In the early stages of the pandemic, local musician Josh Morphett saw this ‘space’ not as a void, but instead as an opportunity for creativity and collaboration. The sudden shut down of all so-called non-essential businesses in March 2020 meant Josh found himself completely out of gigs to play for the foreseeable future. Josh filled the extra time with live-streamed solo sets from various isolated locations – the inside of his kids’ wardrobe even making its public debut. Audiences tuned in online for his ‘House Tours’ and ‘Front Yard Sessions’ from the comfort of their homes, while Josh’s partner, kids and neighbours got to enjoy some open-air tunes on their street in Maslins. With most of the country stuck at home, Josh decided to rally together a bunch of South Australian artists to run a festival based entirely on Instagram Live. For nine-and-a-half hours on a Saturday in late March 2020, people were able to bring live entertainment into their living rooms, along with a small sense of togetherness and normalcy. Its popularity with performers and audiences alike led to the first official Space Jams online festival on 25 April 2020, with an impressive lineup of musicians jumping on board to help promote one another and stay connected. Space Jams Volume Two streamed the following month, with Volume Three in June even bringing some interstate and international acts on board. With the gradual easing of restrictions, the novelty of the live stream began to subside and it seemed the perfect time to trial the festival in a physical space. Space Jams Volume 4 took the stage at Jive in Adelaide for its first-ever live version of the festival in August 2020; a sell-out show with an enthusiastic crowd grooving from their seats. Volumes 5 and 6 followed the same trajectory. The pandemic created a rare space for Josh to test out each new iteration of Space Jams as it simmered to the surface. With interstate and international acts largely absent, there was suddenly oxygen for local musicians to breathe. And breathe they did, shifting their focus to their more immediate community – like local five-piece band 48

Lilac Cove, who Josh joined as lead guitarist amid the chaos – and embracing the more local, more sustainable model of ‘touring’ that Space Jams embodied. With a few mini-fests under his belt, Josh powered ahead with the next evolution: Space Jams South Coast Tour, which took the festival to six regional SA towns, before ending with a bang at Adelaide UniBar. The tour injected life into some quieter corners of the state across March and April 2021, with a couple of stops here on the Fleurieu at Wharf Barrel Shed in Goolwa and Valley of Yore in Myponga. The Wanderers, who headlined all but one show in Myponga, along with Fleurieu-based musicians Rob Edwards and Lilac Cove formed the core touring family. Having come from a background in engineering, festival planning was a steep learning curve for Josh. But while discovering his own process along the way, Space Jams began to attract its own collaborative ecosystem around him. What was originally born from a period of disconnection only amplified the symbiosis that exists between fellow artists and surrounding industries of all kinds; where one thrives, others also reap rewards. Where venues and artists benefited directly, so too did the less obvious supporters like locally-owned Adelaide Marquees and Events, run by one half of Goodness Coffee Co’s sibling duo, Jojo Krause. From the seed of the original idea, to each set up and pack down, equipment move and coffee run, Space Jams was a collaborative effort. Josh’s passion for the Space Jams community and lifelong friendships it’s created is tangible, even through the computer screen that separates us. It’s no surprise then, that Josh says winning ‘Best Small Festival’ at the 2021 South Australian Music Awards was a collective success. ‘When we got that award, so many people said “It feels like we all won it”,’ Josh says. Starting a music festival in a pandemic has been no small feat, but Josh says that by thinking smaller, he’s learned to find a new perspective on the industry. Looking inward and drawing from the local community has been a huge factor in the success of Space Jams. ‘Living down here, I’ve never experienced anything like it,’ Josh says of the Fleurieu. ‘The community is so tight and so cool and that has definitely been an aid to the Space Jams community.’ Josh remains optimistic as he heads into 2022 with a jam-packed, two-day Space Jams festival in Robe on 16 and 17 April. While we may have temporarily lost large-scale live music as we know it, a whole new space has opened up in its place; one that allows local artists and small communities to thrive.

Above: Josh Morphett, instigator of Space Jams, an online music festival that debuted in April 2020.

WHO WE ARE

WHO WE ARE: Evie Harrison

Eve Bud Blooms

Story by Izzy McMillan. Photograph by Henry Kidman.

Inspiration has surrounded floral stylist Evie Harrison from her very beginning. Growing up on the Fleurieu with her winemaker mother and artist father, she spent her youth surrounded by vineyards and the ocean. In 2006 Evie’s family moved from Onkaparinga to The Mill – a beautiful character-filled property at Middleton. ‘Dad’s a big surfer, so being down there with the local art scene and small community vibes is what they wanted,’ says Evie. For Evie, family and place have played a vital role in the development of the strong, motivated and self-driven individual she is today. At fifteen she moved to France with her family, going to school in her new non-English speaking community. Spending much of her free time with her mum, Evie found France provided endless inspiration. She describes going into local florist shops and marveling at their botanical creations. ‘Mum would always say how cool it would be to have something like that one day,’ she says. After returning to Australia to complete her schooling, Evie began working in wholesale floristry on her aunt and uncle’s flower farm. ‘I’d be making native pre-made bunches to go to markets in Victoria and New South Wales, and my aunt would time me. I had to make a bouquet in under a minute and a half,’ she remembers. Then came work experience at florist Austin Bloom, a busier and more demanding environment than her aunt’s flower farm. ‘That’s where I really experienced how the floristry business works,’ she says. ‘Three AM starts, huge hours, working with a team of people and florals on a larger scale. That’s when I was exposed to the events side, not just making bouquets.’ Gaining experience and exposure, Evie began to envision the kind of work she really wanted to do. ‘I was working for a very ‘in demand’ floral retailer, again working massive hours with high turnovers. I learned a lot but I began to feel that if I had creative freedom I could bring a unique style to the world of botanicals,’ says Evie.

Eight years later, Evie still has the same passion and love for floristry as she did when she first started at the age of nineteen. Slowly figuring out her niche, Evie has tried it all, from weddings and events, to large installations and huge floral design challenges. One of her biggest installations was for an Indigenous exhibition at Bird in Hand winery, where she collected, hand-tied and hung spinifex puffs to create a floating sea of stars across the venue’s 250 square metre roof. She aims to do more of this creative concept work in the future. As Evie talks to me via Zoom, her beloved Kelpie, Cruiser, snoozes happily on the couch alongside her. She explains that with him and her partner Tom by her side, she’s been able to manage the unpredictable tides of the COVID-19 pandemic. Of course, like many small, local businesses, she’s taken hit after hit as weddings and events continue to fall victim to the virus. Within one week, she’d lost eighteen months’ worth of business. ‘I reached out to a lot of my friends and colleagues in the industry and asked them where they were at. Everyone was just scrambling,’ she says. Through each twist and turn in her career so far, Evie has not only developed her botanical vision but has also developed her sense of self as a creative and business owner. ‘I went through a time when I was really unsure, and everything I created seemed flawed,’ she says. ‘I think getting over that and realising that someone might like this, and not being so self-critical, that’s been the biggest step in my career.’ Adapting through COVID was just another hurdle to get over. And the most important question I could ask her – what kind of flower does she feel the deepest connection with? She laughs and with a little thought narrows it down to her top five. ‘If I can imagine them coming together, they make the most beautiful bouquet. So, I’d say frilly iris, ranunculus, roses, two-toned raspberry cosmos and feverfew.’ Evie’s favourite part of living on the Fleurieu is being able to head to the beach after a long day working and take a refreshing dip. She also speaks highly of her community, and how grateful she is that people are so willing and eager to support local businesses during these difficult times. ‘And, really,’ she says, ‘I’ve always lived somewhere in the region, so it feels like home.’

Above: Evie at The Mill, Middleton.

FOOD & WINE

Uncorked Wine reviews by Kate Le Gallez

For the past few years, FLM’s wine reviews have been penned by the inimitable Gill Gordon-Smith. Her reviews were as approachable and invigorating as a crisp fiano on a summer’s day – her deep wine knowledge made accessible through evocative adjectives like ‘flirtatious’ and ‘smashable’. We thank her for her contribution.

Into this void steps: me. A wine reviewer of zero experience, but with a novice’s boundless enthusiasm for the task. As I took to the role, I recalled how research scientist Mango Parker explained that the ‘taste’ of wine isn’t only informed by what’s in the glass, but by our biology and our individual memory banks of tastes and smells. Each sip is a moment of sensory inspiration, both unique and universal. It made immediate sense to me – the enjoyment of wine is about the totality of the experience. The four wines in this issue are a Fleurieu mixtape of Southern Rhoneinspired hits. Many of the grape varieties that thrive in the Southern Rhone region of France have likewise found fame here – grenache and shiraz/syrah chief among them – but lesser-known varieties are also finding their niche. Championed by trailblazers like Yangarra Estate and interpreted for Australian palates by these four innovative winemakers, these wines are firmly grounded in the Fleurieu experience. Aphelion 2021 Welkin Clairette Light in colour and a little bit fussy, the clairette grape variety peaked in popularity in France around the same time as Napoleon. While liberty, fraternity and equality have stayed the distance, many French clairette plantings have been replaced over time but they’ve found a Fleurieu stronghold. Louise and Rob Mack of Aphelion Wines knew little of this when Louise suggested Clairette as the name for their first daughter. When they then travelled together to France, Rob made it his business to try as many clairette wines as possible before coming home to make his own from Yangarra fruit. The resulting wine is delicate and pretty, putting you in mind of a spring bouquet, but delivering fine acid and length on the palate. It’s a subtle wine that makes for a delightful start to the evening alongside a cheese plate with figs. Hither & Yon 2021 Syrah Brothers Richard and Malcolm Leask put people and soil first in all they do, in the firm belief that these priorities will pay them back in the glass. They carry on this conversation with their consumer beginning with the label for their first syrah, designed by Adnyamathanha and Dieri man Damien Coutlhard. Damien’s design tells of the ancestral spirit creators’ journey

from Adnyamathanha Yarta through Nukunu and Ngaduri to Kaurna Yarta. Here, the Ampersand symbolises shared histories, shared experiences and seasonal movement across Country. Made with fruit from Kangarilla, this syrah is richly purple in colour and sings of dark berries and pepper. Matured in 3-4 year old French oak puncheons and hogsheads for eight months, it’s an elegant, balanced wine which delivers delicious texture and freshness. The perfect wine for continuing the conversation begun by Malcom, Richard and Damien, perhaps over a slice of woodfired pizza. Samson Tall 2021 Grenache Blanc Picpoul They say opposites attract and that’s the theory Paul Wilson and Heather Budich were working on when they created their 2021 Grenache Blanc Picpoul. Both are Southern Rhone varieties, but where grenache blanc is full bodied and oily, picpoul is zippy and fresh – it translates to ‘sting the lip’ so you get the picture. Samson Tall’s version brings together the first fruit from a new Blewitt Springs vineyard. While many grenache blanc wines are aged in oak, Paul and Heather have chosen to make this wine in an unoaked style. At first the grenache blanc jumps out of the glass, with peach and apricot the frontrunners. As you continue to mull over the wine, you see the freshness and acidity of the picpoul, adding a clean and crisp finish. It’s a wine that loves food, pairing well with our takeaway selection from Goolwa’s Thai Days. SC Pannell 2019 Basso Garnacha The Basso Garnacha takes a classic Southern Rhone variety – grenache – and plays with it, to deliver a low intervention, lighter-style red that demands it’s spot in your glass. First made in 2017, the 2019 version came courtesy of a dryer growing season with lower yields delivering good acidity. It’s a wine that lures you in – at first whiff there’s a sense of fun and playfulness, but a more serious side is revealed on tasting with the red fruit flavours coming through to deliver a juicy, light-to-medium bodied wine with a finish as long as a summer sunset. To adopt a Gill-ism, it’s utterly smashable and would be great mates with a charcuterie board.

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Sea Dragon Story by Meghan Carr. Photography by Evan Bailey.

Only eighteen months prior, the inside of this 1950s abode was bare, gutted to the bones, with only the original cedar wood siding and wooden skeleton remaining intact.

Page left and above: Sea Dragon in Middleton oozed potential, the home’s 1950s charm lending itself to Evan and Kate’s ambitious vision for gutting and restoring their dream beach house. Woodcraft is beautifully displayed in Sea Dragon’s pergola, built by 35° South from salvaged cypress, sourced only a stone’s throw away from the couple’s home.

‘You couldn’t drop your bundle; you just had to keep it together,’ Evan Bailey says with laid back conviction, his eyes sparkling as he recounts the trials of selling a house, running a business, supporting the kids, and renovating a home – all while riding out a pandemic. His wife Kate Clark’s all-knowing smile betrays that he is (slightly) downplaying the enormous journey of converting the run-down beach shack, now affectionately called Sea Dragon, into a family home. Seated around a wooden table in their open-plan kitchen-dining area, I cast my gaze around their welcoming home in quiet disbelief. Only eighteen months prior, the inside of this 1950s abode was bare, gutted to the bones, with only the original cedar wood siding and wooden skeleton remaining intact.

Intrepid travellers, Kate and Evan were expecting their first son when the couple began the process of finding a South Australian town their travelling souls could happily call home. Middleton, with its local surf break and small community vibes, fit the bill. As their small family grew in numbers, they began to eye off potential dream homes on their nightly walks around The Point. But finding a home in the sought-after old-survey area of Middleton is no easy task, so they got inventive. ‘We ended up sending out three letters to the three places we liked, and Peter, the man that owned this [house], was the only one that rang us,’ Kate says, her soft voice full of fondness for the process. ‘I think he liked the idea of a young family coming in and breathing new life into it. Which is what we did.’ With its overgrown gardens, pale green exterior and white trim, Peter’s two-storey house recalls a time when Middleton was a seaside town of holiday shacks, which today are being slowly edged out by the luxury holiday homes erected in their place. In dire need of deep renovations inside and out, the home’s charm revealed itself only to those with an ambitious vision. ‘We had our heart set on it because we loved the potential,’ Evan says. > 55

Above:Outdoor space is maximised for relaxation and entertaining.

After securing the keys in June 2020, Kate and Evan enlisted the help of an enthusiastic trio of Goolwa lads from 35° South Building Company. ‘We lucked out because they were available!’ says Kate, reflecting on the current trades shortage during the pandemic. Evan adds, ‘It must have been fate because we aligned perfectly with their team.’ 35° South uses traditional wood-milling techniques to create bespoke elements. ‘Normally, when you buy timber off the shelf, it comes in select sizes, so it’s not very flexible, but when you have a whole log, you have the ability to do whatever you like with it,’ explains Tom Shaw, who project managed the renovation. Their craft is beautifully displayed in Sea Dragon’s pergola, built from salvaged cypress sourced only a stone’s throw away from the couple’s home. In testament to the excellent working relationship between owner and 56

builder, 35° South gifted the couple an enormous slab of raw pine to be used as an outdoor table. ‘The three lads just rock up carrying this piece of timber!’ Evan exclaims happily. The aim of the design was to renovate within the existing structure while maintaining the exterior’s charm. However, the home also needed a third extension to fit the family of five. ‘Our friends joke it was like the Once-ler house,’ says Evan, referring to the Dr Seuss character from The Lorax. ‘It’s kind of like that. It’s got extension on extension on extension,’ Evan laughs. Opening up the top half of the kitchen became the epicentre of the expansion. ‘We knew natural light was what we wanted to build everything around,’ Evan says as he gestures to the sky-high kitchen windows, ‘just pumping in morning light, the feeling of space and something a bit different.’ The lush potted plants above the tall

Top: A room with a view. Bottom: 35° South’s traditional wood-milling techniques are teamed with beautifully crafted and designed cabinetry by Goolwa Kitchens, in both cool and warm tones. Pine floorboards have been lovingly restored to reveal their nuance and colour.

pink cabinetry highlight the clever minimalist design created with Goolwa Kitchens. To preserve the seaside elements of the home, the couple retained what they could for the rebuild. The original green enamel sink has found a new home in the outdoor shower, while in the living area, the pine floorboards have been lovingly restored to reveal their nuance and colour. The three bedroom home is beautifully appointed, yet modest. Two of Kate and Evan’s children Teddy and Blossom share a bunk bed and their youngest Rudy will someday share a room with another sibling. ‘Whether we outgrow the house or make it work…’ Evan trails off, seemingly undaunted by the possibility of another renovation – or four kids, it’s hard to say.

Perhaps too daunting a project for some, it’s apparent the foundation of this renovation is the synchronicity and respect the couple hold for one another. ‘Kate is amazing,’ Evan says as he refers to how she took charge of shaping a second business last year, creating packages that blended photography and branding to keep the family afloat as their wedding photography business suffered through the pandemic’s twists and turns. While the world has been full of unrest, Evan and Kate have been quietly building a haven. Every detail is meticulously curated to cocoon their family and friends. They’ve collected pieces for use in their home from their parents and from local Fleurieu shops including Dog Dragon and Little Road Studio, bringing warmth but eschewing clutter. Timber highlights and white shiplap panelling echo throughout the home injecting a nautical style and create a relaxed mood. > 57

Top left: A beautiful outdoor shower to leave the salty sea and sand out of the home. Top right: Salty, the family’s Bernedoodle puppy, winds down in style on a brown leather couch. Above him are two photographs from the original owners. Bottom: The couple have married their unique finds and art into a warm and welcoming environment.

In the living room, Salty, a Bernedoodle puppy, sprawls out on the brown leather couch, shattered from his morning run. Above him are two framed photographs: one of a beach tent and the other of a man performing a handstand on the sand, salvaged from a box of Peter’s old photos, dated 1924. ‘I just set them side by side and [thought] there’s something really nice going on there,’ Evan admits, his eye for detail religious.

As we walk outside along the stone-lined front path, it’s clear Sea Dragon is an extension of the family’s lifestyle, values and its setting within Middleton. Her namesake, a mature dragon tree, presides over the developing gardens. Nearby, a stand of sunflowers sway peacefully in front of the tall rainwater tanks. Along with a worm farm, septic and solar panels, the property is built on an ethos of sustainability.

Across the room is a life-size portrait of Jesus, wreathed in sunflower LED lights watching over Evan’s extensive collection of surfboards. ‘I can get a decent surf in a half-hour ... getting wet, getting a few waves, jogging back up the street in the gate, and put the board back,’ Evan says, his gaze roaming out to sea to check the waves in what’s now clearly become an unconscious habit. The laundry room augments this seamless routine, with a hidey-hole for wetsuits built into the sleek wooden benchtop.

The ocean breeze is warm and gentle today, the soothing sound of breaking waves a siren song drawing locals down to the shore. Although a significant undertaking for a young family, it appears to have been a worthwhile investment – their joy in their home evident in the small family moments it enables. ‘We always wanted a breakfast bar for the kids – when they’re sitting along their stools eating breakfast ...’ Evan trails off as Kate finishes the sentence, ‘you pat yourself on the back.’

The Strand Gallery presents ‘Act One: A brush with James’

During Easter 2022, be amongst the first to see the emergence of a new ‘fine art’ artist. James McFarlane has spent the last two years quietly painting elegant ‘still lifes’, refining his skill and talent with oils on canvas. This will be an opportunity to make an early acquisition of paintings that we believe will go onto be collectable and investable examples of the genre.

Above left: Small porcelain vessels. Above right: Artist James McFarlane.

41 The Strand Port Elliot · For more, call Sonya Hender on 0419 501 648. 59

Local hero

Story by Kate Le Gallez. Photography by Brett Harwig.

Page left: The recently renovated extensions to Harry’s Deli at Wirra Wirra – Harry’s Garden. Above left: Confit Duck Leg with Summer Salad. Right: Chef Tom Boden in the new Harry’s Deli kitchen.

It takes a certain ubiquity to become known by your first name only, attended by a level of fame usually gained on the global stage or sports field. Then there’s Harry. Around McLaren Vale and particularly at Wirra Wirra, Harry achieved similar mononymic notoriety, albeit in a more limited geography. Before he died, Wirra Wirra named a room in his honour. Five years ago that room became Harry’s Deli, Wirra Wirra’s cafe that started small but has since grown to be a destination in its own right. Harry was Harry Kilaitis, a Lithuathian immigrant, known around the traps as Harry, Harry the carpenter and even the original Harry highpants. ‘I didn’t even know his surname until after he died,’ says Andrew Kay, Wirra Wirra’s managing director and CEO. Harry plied his trade of carpentry out of Sparrow’s Lodge at the entry to Wirra Wirra. ‘Everything around here that’s big and made of timber, Harry had made it,’ says Andrew. ‘The beautiful big doors you see around Wirra, that whole room,’ continues Andrew, gesturing to the room that used to be the Wirra Wirra boardroom, ‘it’s made by Harry. He was just incredibly talented.’

Harry’s namesake deli started as a small enterprise, initially imagined by Andrew as a New York-style deli. The international inspiration was eventually dropped in favour of a regional focus which has become the deli’s guiding mission. Take the paninis, made with Andy Clappis’ bread. Andrew explains his thinking: ‘if you came down to McLaren Vale or Willunga to get Andy Clappis’ bread once a week on a Wednesday, because that’s the only day he had a drop, what if you could get it seven days a week at Harry’s Deli?’ This ultra-local approach has defined Harry’s Deli and is continued by new chef Tom Boden. ‘Eighty percent of what we use is in some form or another using small local producers or using local products, Fleurieu Milk being a major one,’ says Tom, going on to list other familiar names including Dawn Patrol Coffee, Little Acre Foods, Brian’s Olives, McCarthy’s Orchard and Goodieson Brewery. Tom arrived at Harry’s Deli at a time which, in hindsight, was not ideal. He’d spent the previous six or so years running his own business, joining Harry’s Deli in early 2020. Weeks later, we were all in lockdown. ‘I learned how to pack wine,’ he jokes. ‘And I fed the staff in-house while that was going on too, which kept morale up.’ They also continued serving takeaway during the shutdown. Harry’s Deli was already in its second iteration when Tom arrived, the original indoor area now supplemented by an enclosed courtyard. But the kitchen remained somewhat limited (‘squalid,’ says Tom) crammed into a small galley behind the bar. With the government handing out post-lockdown grants, Andrew saw the opportunity to expand Harry’s Deli again, taking it into its third phase. > 61

Top left: Platters are filled with fresh local produce and complemented by Wirra Wirra’s fine wine. Top right: The sculpture was commissioned as part of Wirra Wirra’s memorial garden for Emily Trott by Ty Manning. It is a fun take on Rodin’s The Thinker. Bottom. Lawn games and special events will be part of Harry’s Garden offerings.

Completed in 2021, Harry’s Deli 3.0 now seats sixty people in the fully-covered courtyard (an increase of over forty seats), the new layout incorporating two long tables made for long lunches. Every table features fancy insitu ordering tech that will make us all happy to scan QR codes again. The real hero, however, is the brand new kitchen. ‘Radical change is an understatement,’ says Tom, of the spacious, light-filled kitchen. The new kitchen has allowed Tom to bring on a new chef – Taiaha Ngawiki, known as Tiger or T. It also means greater consistency and speed in turning out the Harry’s Deli stalwarts, like the Son of Trott pie, generous platters and, of course, all manner of Clappis bread. Tom’s brought his own touches to the menu adding specials and more substantial bowls which in summer featured miso-roasted pumpkin, confit duck and this writer’s pick: the sweet and sticky beef. I’m told a recent special of salt and pepper squid with dried chilli was so good that people came back to eat it again the very next day. Breakfast is now available on weekends.

The new kitchen fitout also activates an entirely new space at Wirra Wirra. Through the warmer months, a servery window from the kitchen will open wide to an expansive lawn on the western side of the building. While density restrictions this summer have seen it used as an overflow for the main dining menu, it will eventually be its own space, known as Harry’s Garden. Patrons can snag a table on the paved area or roll out a rug on the lawn. A seasonal snack menu chalked up on the blackboard will be delivered directly via the servery, with the chance to play lawn games while you wait. Harry’s Deli has perhaps been a quiet achiever in the Fleurieu’s cafe firmament, with each change allowing the cafe to grow in confidence and quality. Tom and his team are now set to make it fly, elevating the Deli classics and introducing new tastes and textures. When I ask Tom how he imagines the Harry’s Deli and Garden experience in this third phase, he replies, ‘I envision people being able to just relax, be replete, not have a care in the world, really soak up the atmosphere and vibe.’ It’s a humble vision, but after the last couple of years it’s exactly what we need – the chance to be in the moment, enjoying good food, good wine and good company. Harry would be chuffed.

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Ordinary, extraordinary Story by Kate Le Gallez. Photography by Grant Hancock.

Page left: ‘Fade (in pink) detail’, 2021, porcelain, gold cluster, 64 x 64 x 3cm. Above: ‘Everyday luxury’, 2021, porcelain, 6 x 32 x 15cm.

The centrepiece of ceramic artist Honor Freeman’s upcoming exhibition is currently marooned on a trailer in her Encounter Bay backyard. Leading me through her house and outside to her backyard studio, she laughs at the incongruous sight of the upturned bath on the trailer. ‘It’s so heavy we can’t get it off,’ she explains, speaking quickly and energetically. ‘It will probably end up in the garden full of plants.’ It will have to come off the trailer soon. Honor has sourced a replacement that needs picking up, a yellow enamel bath that can more easily be transported to the Adelaide Railway Station for Neoteric, an Adelaide Festival exhibition of twenty mid-career practitioners from South Australia. She tells me she’s drawn to the duality of rising tides and receding floods for this piece, picturing the bath moored on ceramic besser blocks. She’s currently experimenting with different materials and methods to re-create the sense of tide lines and receding flood level waters. ‘In this instance the water occupies an emotional and metaphorical space, loosely thinking about keeping our heads above water, being moored or marooned, or maybe just going with the ebbs and flows.

‘A lot of the ideas behind much of my work start off very loosely. Kind of gathering many things and putting it into the work from my perspective,’ she explains. Here, she imagines emotional tides, rather than environmental; the bath might be adorned with ceramic soap barnacles and evidence leaks sustained over its life. It also references the interplay between liquid and solid central to Honor’s craft of slip casting, which sees liquid porcelain poured into a mould and then refined into a physical memory of the original object. ‘Possibly the viewer will see it and not get any of that or they’ll walk away with something entirely different,’ Honor says. ‘I think there are many places that you can kind of enter the work and take from it.’ This work continues Honor’s artistic engagement with the unassuming artefacts of everyday life. From plastic food containers to light switches, handkerchiefs and kitchen sponges, Honor has gravitated towards these humble, democratic objects which unpretentiously open a pathway between the work and the viewer. ‘The nostalgia wrapped up in those things is really fascinating for lots of people. It really does kind of bring back your familial relationships and memories,’ she says. There’s poetry too in the relationship between clay and utility. The workhorses of ceramic artists are functional items – mugs, plates, vases – which gather stories as they are used by people. ‘I do like that relationship between ceramics and the everyday as well. It feels like the right kind of voice for that material for me,’ she explains. > 65

Top: ‘Leak’, 2021, slipcast porcelain, 2.5 x 97 x 12.5cm. Above left: ‘Sunlight for a pandemic’, 2021, porcelain, gold lustre, 3 x 79 x 79cm. Above right: Honor Freeman in her studio, 2021. Photograph by Alex Beckett.

Honor was still studying at art school when she made her first slip cast of a bar of used soap, courtesy of her cleaning job at a budget hotel. ‘I loved finding these spaces people had occupied,’ she says. ‘I loved the traces that were left behind.’ Including, more often than not, leftover pieces of soap. ‘I remember bringing them in because I was just trying to cast anything at that point.’ It was many years before she again cast a soap. That time included years spent at Jam Factory, in Sydney and working with remote Territory communities alongside her partner, Luke Mount. Years that also encompassed early motherhood to Flynn, now nearly ten, and Greta, now six. When Greta was just six months, Honor returned to soap, finding solace in the repetitive work of slip casting the worn and discarded cakes at a time when she was feeling disconnected from her practice. The soaps offered a path back to her work, culminating in her 2016 exhibition Soap Score, which explored how a life might be measured through the accrued remnants of personal care. Soap, alongside other items of domestic utility, continue to appear in Honor’s work, including her 2019 exhibition for the Art Gallery of South Australia, Ghost Objects. Created in the wake of her father’s death, the exhibition included a series of wall-mounted soaps mapped among the Gallery’s collection. Honor repaired the soap 66

seams with gold, referencing the Japanese process of kintsugi, the process healing both the ceramic renderings and offering catharsis for a grieving daughter. By 2020, she felt ready to let soaps go as part of her public practice. But then, of course, soap was suddenly getting unexpected airtime. As the events of 2020 oozed their way into 2021, soap was again a place of technical refuge as well as a surprisingly relevant lens through which to explore life in a pandemic. ‘Sunlight for a pandemic’ played with a palette of yellow tones, invoking joy, hope and the sun’s life-giving rays, while recognising yellow’s sinister underside. The colour has stood both as a symbol of cowardice and dishonour, while yellow flags signalled the presence of infection during the Spanish flu outbreak. Having moved to the Fleurieu a year ago, Honor measures her days in ocean swims, rather than cakes of soaps. She and Luke hold a shared awe of the ocean and wanted to live in a place that enabled them to build the pursuit of this wonder into their family’s daily life. Together with a group of locals, Honor traverses Horseshoe Bay most mornings, swimming, chatting and finding exhilaration in the ever-changing ocean. It’s another way she sees the extraordinary in the ordinary.

The Fringe in Goolwa! alexandrina.sa.gov.au/events

Sunday, 13 March The Garden of Honour, Goolwa RSL Presented by Alexandrina Council A dazzling palette of performing arts, comedy and music spill from The Goolwa Caravan in 2022 bringing a taste of the Adelaide Fringe to Goolwa!

Alexandrina Council Mayor Keith Parkes, Elected Members and staff extend to you...

Scan below for more information on events in Alexandrina.

GREETINGS Alexandrina Council’s principal offices, libraries and depot holiday opening hours: Friday 24 December 9am–1pm Wednesday 29 to Friday 31 December 9am–5pm Re-opening to normal trading days and business hours on Tuesday 4 January 2022.

South Seas Books

South Seas Trading

53 North Terrace, Port Elliot P: 8554 2301 www.southseasbooks.com.au

56 North Terrace, Port Elliot P: 8554 3540

is an independent bookshop on the Fleurieu’s south coast. South Seas will ignite your imagination.

offers a selection of vintage art and design pieces · clothing · jewellery · giftware and books in an evolving Arcadian haven.

Five Years of Fleurieu Future Leaders Story by Zoë Kassiotis. Photography by Jason Porter.

Above: 2017 Fleurieu Future Leader participant Matt Newlands with Charles Manning – with their Thursday morning walking group.

Late last year, the completion presentations of the 2021 Fleurieu Future Leaders Program (FFLP) marked two major milestones for the program: five years and one hundred alumni. Since its inception in 2017, co-creators and behavioural scientists Charles and Janice Manning have invested their time, energy and wealth of knowledge to empower these one hundred people to help activate a vision for the region’s future. Ron Logan, Chair of Fleurieu Community Enterprises (the umbrella company for the Fleurieu Community Bendigo Banks) has been wholeheartedly involved in the program from the beginning. He’s become somewhat of a FFLP mascot, keenly sitting in on most sessions. Ron sees Charles and Janice as heroes for delivering the program to the Fleurieu. ‘Five years later it remains the most important single sponsorship our local bank supports each year,’ he says.

As we approach the sixth year of FFLP, we revisit a cross-section of past participants to hear about their experiences following the program: what’s changed for them, where they’re going and what it all means for them personally and for the community. Mental health advocate and consultant Matt Newlands first met Charles at a fitness bootcamp and then at a local men’s group. The former police officer was navigating his own mental health journey and exploring his intention to support others with their challenges when he applied for the first FFLP. ‘I knew I would benefit from developing my leadership knowledge and skills, as well as building my network in the community,’ Matt says. He sees his everexpanding FFLP community network as a forest. The comparison is apt – where trees use their underground networks to share resources and send distress signals, the FFLP alumni have found their aboveground connections to be just as responsive and supportive. The face that manages and coordinates the rainbow of stalls we know and love as the Willunga Farmers Market, is market manager Jenni Mitton. ‘I thought the program would be the perfect way to enhance my relationship with the community. I wanted connections across the Fleurieu that are deeper than just business colleagues,

Above left: 2018 Fleurieu Future Leaders participant Jenni Mitton. Above right: 2019 Fleurieu Future Leaders participant Nick Hayles.

where we have a greater understanding for each other’s passions and purpose,’ she says. Nicholas Hayles shares Jenni’s community spirit. He’s one of those juggling-four-balls type wizards, balancing leadership roles as Deputy Mayor of the City of Victor Harbor, co-owner of Planted Coffee House as well as his day job on the wellbeing team at Port Elliot Primary School. Nicholas saw the program as an opportunity to meet local people who are doing amazing things: ‘I found a new tribe of people with whom I shared experience, knowledge and a new network that could improve the way I work and expand the way I think.’

to open up and share,’ says the young lawyer who’s based in Goolwa and works at Southern Coast Legal. She felt like she was missing out on connecting with local professionals as most lawyers of her generation gravitate towards multi-storey office buildings. The program has given Milli both a personal and professional perspective. ‘The program taught me that working in the legal profession doesn’t mean that I need to conform with the idea of the traditional lawyer. As well as being professional, one of the most important things is to make sure that you are personable and can really connect with your clients. The program has highlighted to me just how important that is,’ Milli explains.

When another Victor Harbor local, Megan Whibley, participated in 2020 she thought it would push her to venture off the rails (in the best way) and explore new directions in a nurturing environment. ‘It was such a safe space that encouraged all of us to be involved,’ she says. ‘This feeling became very apparent really quickly in the sense of camaraderie and teamwork.’ Megan now brings these learnings to her team as General Manager of the Victor Harbor Tramway.

The program encourages participants to note the importance of living in an area of discomfort. In other words: get comfortable with being uncomfortable. Charles firmly believes that leadership development is ultimately a process of self development, which Nicholas settled into with deep appreciation. ‘It is in this uncomfortable space that we grow even though success isn’t guaranteed,’ he says.

2021 participant Milli Livingston also warmed to her group’s close dynamic. ‘The further we got into the program the easier it became

‘I thought that the program was strictly about succeeding in a commercial sense and not about you personally, but I was definitely wrong there,’ Milli says. ‘My biggest light bulb moment was realising >

Above Left: 2020 Fleurieu Future Leaders participant Megan Whibley. Above right: 2021 Fleurieu Future Leaders participant Milli Livingston.

that to be a better partner, family member, lawyer and employee, I need to focus on myself personally.’ Matt experienced similar revelations with his group and was challenged right from the first day. ‘I learnt more about myself with inner reflection exercises that encouraged us to observe our behaviours,’ he recalls. In terms of actually participating in the group projects, Nicholas surprised himself by stepping out of his comfort zone. ‘There are always activities or experiences that present you with the challenge of whether you will make it through it or not, and it’s this intentional confrontation of our own abilities which makes this program a great tool for shaping leaders,’ he says. All the leaders recalled leaving the program on an invincible high, feeling confident, empowered and equipped with skills to go back into the workplace and community as compassionate, thoughtful and team-oriented leaders. As with any intensive regime, the new muscles need to be exercised regularly to sustain the benefits. This starts within the program itself, with each cohort forming four to five groups, called syndicates, and working collaboratively on a community outreach project. It’s a chance to put into practice the skills and insights they’re gathering, while also creating an immediate community impact.

Post program, Milli’s syndicate has remained close. Her group cocreated Network Fleurieu, which connects like-minded professionals and entrepreneurs via an online platform and will begin to hold networking events across the Fleurieu in the coming months. Meanwhile, Nicholas has been collaborating with young professionals on the south coast to strengthen the relationships between people in their twenties through to forties in order to attract more of that vibrant demographic to the area. The thread that ties each of the one hundred alumni together is their passion for connection, growth and betterment of the Fleurieu. This was top of mind for Jenni when she applied to the program three years ago. ‘I’d been hearing chatter in the community about the projects and bonding taking place and that created a sense of excitement in me,’ she explains. The Future Leaders’ forest will continue to grow and expand in 2022 and beyond, with Ron Logan proudly reporting that the number of applicants continues to rise each year. Charles, Janice and the FFLP committee of alumni welcome anyone with a deep connection to the region, and a passion for making a difference to themselves, their colleagues, family, employees and the community to apply.

RC H F O

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Applications open 1st March for the next group of future leaders

E APPLICAT

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Fleurieu Future Leaders Program is developing a pipeline of leaders to guide the future of this great region. The program incorporates; leadership and management teachings | empowers candidates to pursue their dreams | provides knowledge regarding the financial and legal implications of achieving objectives | and teaches the importance of collaboration and networking. Get more info on the Bendigo Bank Fleurieu Future Leaders at: fleurieuleaders.com.au

NEW LOCALES

Fresh destinations Words by Poppy Fitzpatrick.

We’ll forgive you for getting lost in your imagination as you skim through the following pages, fantasising over your next adventure in the south; we’re doing the same as we write it. But before we lose you, it’s worth drawing your attention to the incredible innovation and creativity that constantly elevates our region.

Above left: A slam dunk on Lucky Ducks vegan food and cocktails! Above right: The beautiful property atop of Mount Jagged is the perfect place to enjoy Boho Farms minimal intervention wine or a botanical gin and beer paired with pizzas and platters on the weekends.

EAT Lucky Ducks They say great minds think alike and for Jac, Stacey, Rich and Lisa, the phrase couldn’t be more fitting. While each member of the group proudly embraces their own unique food preferences, all are in clear agreement over the deliciousness that can be created using all vegan ingredients. Seeing an opportunity to join the ever-growing Aldinga nightlife with a restaurant and cocktail bar that offers something a little different, the quartet came together to bring us Lucky Ducks. Determined to challenge the bland stereotypes that surround vegan food, Lucky Ducks boasts a vibrant and creative menu sure to please every palate – vegans, vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. The team are serving up some of the ‘best ducking vegan food without stereotypes and bs’ from 5pm until late, Thursday through Sunday.

Lost Phoenix Farm Drop into this brand new Hindmarsh Valley destination for a gourmet lunch, or spread out on the luscious lawns with picnic rugs and beanbags while you sip on local wines and spirits into the evening. Muni Remind yourself of life’s simpler pleasures like good food, wine and community in this sleek, minimalist new addition to Willunga, where every single ingredient is treated with the utmost attention to detail. Thai DAYS Delve into a menu that will take you on a brief Thai getaway right here on our very own south coast. Dine in at this Goolwa restaurant to enjoy the friendly atmosphere and extensive local wine list, or grab something to go and enjoy it by the seaside.

What was initially published as a one-off feature to champion a handful of new businesses on the Fleurieu has unexpectedly become a regular fixture in our already bursting pages. Since it first appeared in our summer 2018/19 issue, this segment has featured close to sixty emerging business ventures on the Fleurieu – and there’s no sign of it slowing down. The richness of experience and connectedness that underpins our lifestyle is what keeps so many visitors lingering, while also serving as a constant reminder to locals just how good it is to be a part of this incredible corner of the world.

Above left: Design inside and out at Shirvington’s new cellar door. Come for a platter and one of their fine wines in this stylish interior or in the beautifully landscaped garden. Above right: Enjoy the stunning views and gardens at Heidrun Estate and stay for ‘Billy’s menu’ and award-winning wine.

DRINK Boho Farm When Luke Hoban met Claire Bolt, it was the beginning of a love story – one followed by the creation of a beautiful family and the realisation of their combined dream, Boho Farm. Finding a beautiful property atop the coastal highland of Mount Jagged, the pair sold their city home to grow their farm and family on the Fleurieu. Open since July 2021, Boho Farm offers a selection of minimal intervention wines made from Mount Jagged grapes, botanical gin and beer, paired with delicious wood-oven pizzas and platters on weekends. This is the perfect spot to stop and admire the stunning hills that surround the region. Shirvington Wines With 25 years of winemaking experience under their belt, the Shirvington family have firmly held their ground as quiet achievers in the Fleurieu region. McLaren Vale’s optimal grape-growing climate, alongside its supportive community have allowed the Shirvingtons to nurture high-quality fruit from vine to bottle, while building a strong

local reputation. In March 2021, Shirvington Wines found a renewed sense of inspiration and opened a new cellar door in McLaren Vale. Offering tastings of their award-winning wines, delicious platters and a truly family-oriented experience, the Shirvingtons can’t wait to share their history in this stylish new space. Heidrun Estate This humble, cottage-like cellar door offers a casual sharing menu using the best produce from the region, washed down with awardwinning Rohan Family wines. Each wine is tied to an occasion that symbolises a special moment in life – like their ‘After Dark’ Grenache which conjures thoughts of indulgence and temptation, or their newest wine, ‘Golden Hour’, which is symbolic of sun on your skin, sand between your toes and a glass of chilled sauvignon blanc in your hand. Each moment can be enjoyed in a different pocket of the estate, either inside their big outdoor cage, sprawled on a picnic rug on the lawn, snuggled up by the firepit, or dining inside while admiring the view through their beautiful big window. > 73

Above left: Visit Dear Deliah (tucked inside the Valley of Yore) for dried posies, pressed flowers, cards and unique artworks. Above right: Beautifully curated fashion, homewares and gifts at Morocco by Mish.

SHOP Clink at Tintara Sip an icy cold gin, cocktail, premium wine or beer while you enjoy rotating live music line-ups brought to you by Fig Gigs. This pop-up will be nestled on the lawns between Tintara Winery and the McLaren Vale Hotel, with Nitro Burrrito serving up tasty Mexican eats until the end of March. Sparkke at Factory 9 Quench your thirst with a Carbon Zero Sparkke beer or select from their Summer of Fun cocktail range. This popular Adelaide label is bringing its unique flavour to the Fleurieu in Port Elliot’s own Factory 9, where you can sample beer paddles or join an intimate, guided Full Circle gin tasting with local maker Rose.

Dear Deliah Tucked inside the Valley of Yore in Myponga, Dear Deliah specialises in dried floral posies, wreaths and larger arrangements, as well as unique cards and artworks adorned with pressed flowers. Owner Ash also gives bridal bouquets a second life by turning them into works of pressed flower art. Nothing in store goes to waste; arrangements are sourced as locally as possible and dried without chemicals or dyes, before they are wrapped in recycled paper and finished in natural twine. Dear Deliah has found a unique way to spread joy that doesn’t cost the earth, all while celebrating the creativity that exists in living a slower, more considerate life. Morocco by Mish One mightn’t see many parallels between the humble Fleurieu Peninsula and the exotic country of Morocco. But as a 20-year resident returning to Australia with her daughter Bahija, Mish feels she’s found a community that embraces the same shweea shweea (Arabic for slowly, slowly) lifestyle she grew to love in Morocco. Morocco by Mish has brought to Willunga a curated collection of art, fashion and textiles incorporating traditional techniques with contemporary designs. The harmonious mix of homewares, rugs

Above left: All the pretty flowers at Harvest Studio. Come for a uniquely designed bouquet and ask about their flower installations for special events. Above right: Ben and Kel opened the Surf Esteem board room recently and have loads of knowledge to help you pick your perfect ride.

and jewellery is a one-of-a-kind shopping experience that transports you to the Marrakesh medina, while ensuring each product ethically empowers its artisan. Whether your eyes are drawn to small earrings crocheted by Fatiha and her mum in a small village outside Marrakesh or to the bags hand crafted by Najib deep in the souk, you’re bound to acquire something truly unique in this new addition to the High Street. Harvest Studio With a fine art background, Hope Deane has always been passionate about reconnecting people with the natural world through her work. Opening Harvest Studio on McLaren Vale’s Main Road in September 2021, Hope is now creating works of art that customers are able to take into their own spaces. Hope and her team of fellow artists offer contemporary flower installation art and event design, alongside spectacular studio flower arrangements for pick-up and delivery. All of the botanical materials are locally foraged and salvaged, in an effort to create a more sustainable method of floristry while celebrating the local seasonal environment. More than simply bunches of flowers, Harvest Studio aims to create immersive experiences that act like mini-landscapes, leaning into the unique imperfections of each piece of foliage they interact with.

Surf Esteem Board Room This locally-owned and operated surf shop has been a long-term fixture at Aldinga Central Shopping Centre since 2004, stocking a wide range of surf clothing, accessories and surf equipment. Surf Esteem are now celebrating the recent expansion of their Board Room, designed to meet the needs of all surfers, from beginner to expert. This one-stop-shop has everything required to get you in the water with a smile on your face, whether you’re after a bodyboard, stand-up paddle board or a top-of-the-range surfboard. Whatever their customers walk away with, owners Ben and Kel want them to ‘stay stoked’, with good vibes and good rides across our beautiful coastline.

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Adam Bowden

I’m the Elders Insurance representative for Southern Fleurieu. I live in Aldinga Beach with my wife and two girls. Each day I jump in my car and head south to the beautiful Southern Fleurieu Peninsula. I am located at our Victor Harbor and Normanville offices, where I meet with clients to assist them, in person, with anything that requires my experience, care and attention. And when I’m not in the office, I’m out meeting clients in theirs. This may be in the paddock, a vineyard, at their work, or around their kitchen table. I’m grateful to be able to drive around this area, taking in the Fleurieu landscape and helping the incredible people that live here.

Scan to see Adam’s video Contact Adam Bowden for a personalised quote today 0436 412 695 Elders Insurance Southern Fleurieu Southern Fleurieu Insurance Services P/L atf Southern Fleurieu Insurance Services Unit Trust ABN 55322739901 trading as Elders Insurance Southern Fleurieu AR No. 1245065 is an Authorised Representative of Elders Insurance (Underwriting Agency) Pty Limited ABN 56 138 879 026, AFSL 340965. Insurance is underwritten by QBE Insurance (Australia) Limited ABN 78 003 191 035 AFSL 239545. Visit www.eldersinsurance.com.au to consider the Product Disclosure Statement and any applicable Target Market Determination to decide if the product is right for you.

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A healthy hedonist Story by Holly Wyatt with Zoë Kassiotis.

Page left and above: Retreats at Lapito House in Myponga include delicious whole foods, yoga classes, journaling and a connection to nature through their beautifully located accommodation.

At one point in my life, travel was about escapism as much as adventure. It was a chance to seek out contrasting experiences as far away from the four walls and air-controlled climate of my working life as possible. More recently, travel has started to mean something different. Maybe the shift came with the passage of time and the additional decades of life lived. Or perhaps it snuck in unnoticed in the wake of some significant life changes: becoming a mother, experiencing grief and loss, starting a new business and feeling disconnected from creative pursuits. I started to see my ideas about down-time and my dreams of travel through a different lens. Now I seek restoration, connection with nature, the chance to clear my mind and body, and joyful play. Wellness may be described and defined differently between cultures, but there’s commonality to be found in the need for balance. Nutrition of the mind and soul, mind-body harmony and cohesion, rest over stress, purpose, connectedness to nature, and cultural and spiritual engagement may all play their part. These elements make up the journey rather than the destination. Our recent estrangement from travel and airports have left many rethinking how and why people want to get away. The wellness travel market has evolved beyond token day spas to an array of immersive

and sometimes transformative experiences. Intentionally taking time out of the daily grind to explore positive experiences and practices may also have a residual benefit on our daily habits. Science and alternative modalities have uncovered the significance of connection, nutrition, sunshine and fresh air as elements of good health, and now the South Australian Tourism Commission’s (SATC) Regional Visitor Strategy has acknowledged the state’s emerging wellness tourism sector and it’s promising potential – so much so that they envision South Australia becoming a world-leading wellness tourism destination over the coming years. Dylan Beach, Regional Tourism Manager of the Fleurieu Peninsula, has identified wellness travel as a key pillar for tourism in our region. ‘It’s really about how well businesses curate these amazing diverse experiences with what we already have to attract a specific type of traveller,’ he explains. ‘For me, the beauty of wellness tourism can literally be anything that promotes personal wellbeing ... it’s different for everyone.’ While international and interstate travel came to an immediate halt in 2020, intrastate tourism soon hit an all-time high. As borders once again relax, the Fleurieu is set to be a sought-after destination for those seeking rejuvenation, self-healing and a much-needed stress detox. Already known for its pristine beaches, enchanting landscape, First Nations culture, adventure offerings, and exceptional wine and produce, the region has all the hallmarks of a wellness destination. There is a wholesome and ever-evolving abundance of local businesses offering us the tailored wellness experiences our souls are craving. > 79

Above left: Connecting with adventure, wildlife, wellness and epicurean experiences in nature when you book a retreat with Untamed Escapes. Above right: ‘Flow state’ clay classes through the Local People Co.

Jodie Douglas co-runs Untamed Escapes, a nationwide tour operator that’s been providing regenerative travel experiences in the country’s most blissful pockets for almost two decades. These trail blazers identified wellness travel as a uniquely important niche in the tourism industry and see the Fleurieu’s wine coast as Australia’s answer to the Mediterranean. ‘It’s about connection, education, relaxation and disconnecting from the stress of everyday life so that you can reconnect with yourself,’ Jodie says. This ultra feelgood form of travel is for everyone, but Jodie noted the majority of their travellers are hard working women, who simply want a break. ‘It’s for people who are so busy looking after everyone else that they need a chance to look after themselves,’ she said. From yoga and wine pairings, to sharing wholesome spaces, bouncing ideas and gleaning wisdom from other professionals, Jodie believes collaboration is a beautiful part of wellness travel. Diverse wellness experiences have blossomed across the Fleurieu meaning anyone can find a workshop, retreat or relaxing getaway to fill their individual cup. Offerings span from mid-week mood enhancers to the indulgence of a week-long escape; mood-lifting forest bathing and Nordic-style hot sauna plunge pools to foraging groups and tea blending; or learning to lose our inhibitions through the arts with ‘sip and paint’ classes or music studio sessions. Each experience is a unique key to unlock mind, body and soul health. Lapito House, a spectacularly renovated farmhouse nestled in Myponga’s undulating hills, is home to Nurture from Within retreats. Here guests revel in nature and hiking, mindset and nutrition workshops, delicious soul food as well as journaling, yoga and meditation. It’s also the home of Untamed Escapes’ four-day yoga and adventure-based retreat where guests are deeply immersed in the Fleurieu’s pristine environment, as well interactive Ayurvedic cooking classes that teach guests how to prepare self-healing remedies with locally grown Indigenious herbs. For the more 80

creative types, Papershell Farm, an almond orchard with boutique accommodation in Whites Valley, takes a multi-faceted approach – offering world music events, yoga and a curated art program with home-grown meals prepared by the owners. Candice Hooper has an innovative approach. Her business Pause In-House Wellbeing makes it effortless to build your own retreat on the Fleurieu. Once your location is booked, they will take care of all your wellbeing needs. Yoga at sunrise on the beach? A massage on the deck overlooking the ocean? Pause can organise it all, with the click of a button. Sounds dreamy to me. Lydia Rega, an Ayurvedic practitioner from Port Elliot Wellness believes responding to the pandemic by seeking out experiences that benefit our wellbeing and contribute to the greater community is a testament to our collective resilience. ‘It’s human nature to transform in challenging times and seek immersive experiences that enhance our health while combining the exhilaration of travel and self discovery,’ she explains. ‘Over the past two years there has been increased interest in engaging with inspirational experiences that educate the consumer to practise better lifestyle habits.’ For many, the pandemic has been a nudge to get us back on track to what matters on an instinctive level – a sharper focus on health and wellbeing and quality time and connection with family, immediate community and nature. We can hope too that the work we do within will have a butterfly effect on the world around us. This is perhaps the most exciting and mysterious destination of all to explore. Renouncing my globe-trotting freedoms to bounce off the four walls of home allowed me the time to move through the shock to the system. For me it’s become a journey of mastering less, but better. So when the time comes to re-engage with the wider continent and travel to all corners of the world again, it’s likely that the way we travel will be different – much like ourselves.

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The Fleurieu through a local traveller’s eyes Story by Zoë Kassiotis. Photograph by Jason Porter.

They say home is where the heart is. If that’s true, then I’ve left a breadcrumb trail of my heart across the world for the past five years, scattering pieces in music-filled Spanish plazas and sweltering Turkish bazaars. More recently there were moments on my one-and-a-half year-long van lap around a vast and ever-changing Australia when I felt an overwhelming sense of home in the remote seaside towns I fell so irrevocably in love with. 82

For me, it took packing up on a whim and embracing newness to discover what felt good, what lit me up and what I can live without. It was proving difficult to shape answers to life’s deeper questions when surrounded by a monotonous routine, the enemy of comfort and noise of those who felt they knew me, purely because they did at one point in time. This is why I’ve spent most of my twenties simply wanting to be elsewhere. In doing so I’ve exposed myself to new ideas, ways of living and accumulated knowledge from people and places – adopting what serves me and leaving behind what doesn’t. A wealth of wisdom from life on the road permeated the essence of who I am and inevitably steered me back home to Kaurna land. I gladly succumbed to the pull of the rolling, vine-lined, cafe-dotted Fleurieu coast with a particular goal: this time I’m determined to see

Scan to watch video. Above: Zoë in a washpool at the Port Noarlunga Reef, happily finding a traveller’s perspective to her home on the Fleurieu in her spare time.

my home through a traveller’s lens. I’ve been warmed to discover everything I loved about other regions is right here in all its natural glory: our surf, beaches, dive sites, hikes, produce, wine, artists and wildlife – the puzzle pieces of the Fleurieu – are as awe inspiring as anything I’ve ventured thousands of kilometres for. I may not be travelling now, but I have decided to keep being a traveller. I get a vacation high from my new morning ritual at the Port Noarlunga Reef when I take my freedive gear and traveller’s eye to the reef at low tide. I feel a ‘rolling into a new town’ anticipation build as I ride down Southport hill, eager to lock my bike up at the surf club and swim out to the reef’s southernmost end. It’s this less frequented section where resident fish have seemingly begun to recognise my rainbow one-piece and guide me on new adventures. I like to think they’ve adopted me as one of their own as I explore the drop-off for as long as my breath will allow. Some of the fish are dressed in as much colour as any I’ve seen on the Great Barrier and Ningaloo reefs, or dare I say even anyone at the Willunga Farmers Market. After a market-hopping lap around the country, my local market still takes the lavender-brownie cake and fills my fridge, belly and heart like no other. Despite leaving parts of myself scattered across the country, I have returned with a deepened appreciation for being right here. After my

morning adventure I simply did what I would do elsewhere and took my wet hair to write and spark up conversation with a familiar stranger at Goodness Coffee in Aldinga. I’d seen them savouring a mug there before, so I assumed they were local and asked what they think makes the Fleurieu special. ‘The community feels like a hug’ they say matter of factly – an answer that spilled out to the bustling courtyard without hesitation. I smiled because I couldn’t agree more. Leading with curious eyes in the place I’ve always lived has involved making a conscious effort to seek out the new and indulge a world that exists outside my comfort zone. It’s been a beautifully refreshing mindset, which stopped me from slipping into the post-travel blues. I think adopting the curious eyes and heart of a traveller can help us all get more out of this unique region, as well as incite us to give more of our hearts to it. I will always find a way to discover unfamiliar places – it’s who I am. But the community of inspiring people who inhabit this postcardperfect landscape is why the Fleurieu – in all its golden familiarity – will always be my home. After all, home is where you feel enticed to return.

Deanne Brown – Registered Conveyancer, Emma Nankivell – Certified Practicing Conveyancer and AICSA Division Councillor, Caroline Scott – Settlement Manager, Natalie Muirhead – Conveyancing Assistant

Your trusted property advisors Email: info@nankivellconveyancing.com.au Phone: 08 8552 7751 Office: 2/162 Hindmarsh Road Victor Harbor Web: nankivellconveyancing.com Bookings are essential

Donlan Lawyers – Servicing the Fleurieu and Beyond. We speak your language.

Wills and Estate Planning · Trusts · Deceased Estates · Business Succession · Power of Attorney and Advance Care Directives · Family Law · Conveyancing Home visits available. Contact (08) 8344 6422 · www.donlanlawyers.com Level 2/ 60 Hindmarsh Square Adelaide SA · 70 Ocean Street, Victor Harbor SA

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PRODUCER PROFILE

Above: Strawberries, picked fresh and available at the Willunga Farmers Market. Photo by Josie Withers.

Harvest the Fleurieu Twenty years ago, a young Megan Sherry could be found every Saturday morning setting up the marquee at her family’s strawberry stall in the gravel carpark of the Alma Hotel. The Willunga Farmers Market was in its first year and Harvest the Fleurieu are now one of a handful of original stallholders who are still a part of the award-winning market today. Megan’s younger brother Ryan has been involved in the Willunga Farmers Market stall from an early age too. ‘The Adelaide Farmers Markets started in Wayville in 2006 and once Megan started helping with the setup there, it was my turn to be getting up really early to help out at the stall in Willunga, handing out the two kilogram boxes of strawberries which are still popular with our customers today. Our parents grew the strawberries, we started selling them from a young age and now we are keeping the business going.’ Megan, Ryan and older brother Adam have grown up in the strawberry business. Childhood memories include building forts out of packing boxes on the family’s property in Kuitpo, while parents Brenton and Vanessa Sherry worked hard growing their wholesale strawberry business, then known as Kuitpo Forest Strawberries. ‘Seeing what our parents had to do every day has instilled a strong work ethic and has guided how we now work together,’ reflects Ryan. All three of the next generation of the Sherry family now run the family business, with Adam and his partner Sonya managing the Kuitpo

property and Megan, Ryan and his partner Allis running the Mt Compass farm, including their pick-your-own strawberry patch. ‘We enjoy selling our produce at farmers markets and love it when the market customers visit us in Mt Compass. They meet the farmers that are growing their food and get a bit dirty as they pick their own strawberries, realising that they aren’t all perfect as they hunt for a big, juicy strawberry,’ explains Megan. ‘We pick on a Friday so that our strawberries are as fresh as can be for a Saturday market, but nothing tastes as good as when you pick a warm strawberry from the patch first thing in the morning,’ declares Ryan. In 2017 Harvest the Fleurieu’s sales in Mt Compass grew from a red produce van to a market hall that has quickly become a hub for local produce. ‘The Willunga Farmers Market has not only had a huge impact on keeping our family business afloat commercially over the years, but it has also shaped our market hall having learnt the impact you can have on a community by supporting other local growers,’ Megan shares. As leaders of berry farming practices and innovations, there are some big plans ahead for this family business. Tayberries, that are only grown in Scotland and Mt Compass, have just had their first pick-your-own season and with their dedicated gluten-free kitchen, Megan’s goal to become the gluten-free mecca of South Australia is well underway. With tours for school groups increasing and work on an accessible pick-your-own strawberry patch already started, very soon everyone will be able to experience the pleasure of tasting a freshly picked strawberry.

Saturdays 8am – 12.00pm Willunga High School

Support your local farmers and producers Fresh local produce including fruit, veg, meat, olive oil, cheese, wine and all your weekly essentials can be found every Saturday morning in Willunga. We look forward to welcoming you. *New location: Willunga High – 1km south of Town Square. www.willungafarmersmarket.com.au 86

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Page left: Images depict the stunning locations of some of this year’s Fleurieu events for Tasting Australia. Top left: ORSO x Angove Long Lunch among Angove’s historic vineyards. Top right: Producers of the Vale Culinary Adventure at Victor’s Place. Bottom left: In the Dunes: Dinner by Kuti Shack & Topiary. Bottom right: Picnic Under the Stars at Kay Brothers Wines.

Tasting Australia: Highlighting Fleurieu events

It’s the ultimate summer send off. Tasting Australia is a must-do event for anyone who loves to eat, drink and be merry, while delighting in the very best South Australia has to offer. In 2022 this fabulous foodie festival is showcasing its biggest program to date and offers tantalising events for a variety of budgets from April 29 to May 8. The Fleurieu continues to produce more than its share of bud-tingling fare with 21 events being held this year. We’ve provided a taste of what’s on offer below, but for the full menu head to tastingaustralia.com.au. ORSO x Angove Organic Long Lunch Angove McLaren Vale Vineyards 30 April, 12.30 – 3.30pm 1 May, 12.30 – 3.00pm Price: $220 This long lunch offers a match made in gastronomical heaven, where ORSO restaurant owner and chef Andre Ursini’s specialty Italian cuisine is expertly paired with Richard Angove’s selection of organic wines from McLaren Vale. Enjoy this marriage among Angove’s historic vineyards and learn along the way, as Angove winemakers outline the philosophy and methods that underpin their wines.

Producers of the Vale Culinary Adventure Victor’s Place, Old Noarlunga 1 May, 10.30am – 6.30pm Price: $240 If Fleurieu fare is your thing, then this adventure led by Victor’s Place and Varney Wines is well worth taking. The day is dedicated to championing local producers, kicking off with tastings hosted by winemaker Alan Varney and a bus tour to Seaview Bush Vine grenache vineyard. Back at Victor’s Place, guests will experience an immersive demonstration of the ancient art of curing and smoking featuring Coorong seafood and Ellis Butchers’ meats. In The Dunes: A Dinner by Kuti Shack & Topiary Kuti Shack, Goolwa 4 May, 6.30 – 9.30pm Price: $140 Topiary’s Kane Pollard teams up with Kuti Shack’s Brendan Roach and Vanessa Button to deliver a five-course menu brimming with sustainably-sourced seafood, seasonal produce and foraged flavours befitting of their stunning location in the sandy dunes of Goolwa beach. It’s a pristine area that’s become synonymous with the sustainable use of kutis (pipis), which are now found in some of the finest kitchens in the land.

Top left: Beach Road Wines: Wine Blending & Bottling Masterclass. Top right: Outdoor Cinema St Francis Winery, Old Reynella. Bottom left: 360° X 2000 Years: The Amazing Sites Dining Experience at the d’Arenberg Cube. Bottom right: Literary Lunch Series, Cove Civic Centre, Hallett Cove.

Picnic Under The Stars Kay Brothers Wines, McLaren Vale 6 May, 5.00 – 10.00pm Price: Adults – $25, Children 12 and under – $10 A rare chance to stretch out on a blanket spread over Kay Brothers’ grassy grounds and look skywards to the sparkling night. Stargazers are invited to purchase a selection of Kay Brothers wines alongside local produce in curated picnic baskets (or BYO your favourite snacks), while learning about the southern constellations courtesy of Backyard Universe. Beach Road Wines: Wine Blending & Bottling Masterclass Beach Road Wines, McLaren Vale 6 May, 11.00am – 5.00pm Price: $600 Ever dreamed of being able to create your own bottled blend? Well now’s your chance. This masterclass led by Beach Road Wines’ owner and winemaker Briony Hoare deep dives into wine appreciation, the properties of grape varieties and the magic art and science of blending. And when you’re done learning the finer points of winemaking, you get to create your own blended drop to bottle and take home for your next special occasion. The day is accompanied by a Fleurieu-inspired menu of tasting platters and wood-fired pizzas. 360° X 2000 Years: The Amazing Sites Dining Experience The d’Arenberg Cube 6 May, 6.00 – 09.30pm Price: $250 A feast for the senses, this intimate evening set in the d’Arenberg Cube 360 degree video space will transport thirty guests to the

vineyards behind the winery’s Amazing Sites collection. Alongside spectacular visuals and narration by chief winemaker Chester Osborn, guests will be guided through ten Amazing Sites wines across three vintages carefully matched with dishes created by d’Arry’s Verandah Restaurant Head Chef Peter Reschke. Outdoor Cinema St Francis Winery, Old Reynella 29 April, 6.30 – 9.30pm Price: $25 For those seeking to pair their eating and drinking with the chance to kick back and enjoy a film under the stars, the family-friendly outdoor cinema screening at St Francis Winery is the event for you. Watch the ever-popular Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone on the big screen while enjoying a selection of wines and a locally-sourced picnic for adults and Adelaide Hills crumbed chicken tenderloins with chips and salad for kids. Literary Lunch Series Cove Civic Centre, Hallett Cove Multiple dates: 3 May, 12.00 – 2.00pm with Molly Murn 4 May, 12.00 – 2.00pm with Katherine Tamiko Arguile 5 May, 12.00 – 2.00 with Victoria Purman Price: $35 per lunch If you have a penchant for the written word, three Literary Lunches offer the chance to wine and dine with some of your favourite authors. Here, you can sip a top drop and indulge in some fine local fare while getting the download on the creative process to authoring a bestseller. 89

Delicious food, amazing cocktails. Family friendly fare. Enjoy the fiesta!

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SHIRVINGTON WINES

Family owned, multi-award winning wines We invite you to our cellar door to indulge in a wine tasting, overlooking our vineyard or viewing into our barrel room. You will be hosted by one of the family and guided through a range of our wines from modern styles, to traditional aged red wines. Along side our boutique handmade wines, we offer a selection of local produce, you can ‘build your own’ platters catering to most dietary requirements. Indoor and outdoor seating is available and bookings are recommended . We look forward to welcoming you soon!

107 Strout Road McLaren Vale Thursday - Monday: 11am - 4pm. Closed: Tuesday & Wednesday · 8323 7649 · info@shirvington.com

BOOKS & WORDS

Autumn book reviews by Mark Laurie of South Seas Books, Port Elliot.

Winn recognises that the walk and their life circumstances inexorably changed them from being participants in the ordinary run of human life, to observers. It’s this, coupled with a long-held appreciation of nature, which elevates the book above the general fray of personal narratives into a contextualisation of modern life from its ‘wild edge’. Undoubtedly uplifting, inspirational and liberating as the story is, it’s balanced by some sobering observations for the more sensitive on homelessness, our endlessly growing wants, and the society we’ve become.

The Salt Path

the world of city financier for that of smalltown bookseller. Lines and spaces appear between public duty and private morality. Gradients of duty and loyalty to the Service and to their country are laid bare by realisation that there remains no space for ideals, and that much of their efforts over the last fifty years amounted to no more than ‘a giddy late-life romp through the wild woods of colonial fantasy.’ Some adhere devoutly to the ‘superstitions of [their] tribe’ as others fade to the past, where they ‘can do no harm’ in service of something they no longer recognise. And so, sixty years of masterful storytelling has come to its end. Described as a spy genre writer of the first order, John le Carré was so much more, capturing our preoccupations and uncertainties over all those years through the finely drawn characters who were the foundation of his art. While a prolific historic backlist beckons, we shall miss his talent for eloquent understatement as humanity’s tectonic plates buckle and shear. Vale.

by Raynor Winn Published by Penguin Books ISBN 9781405937184 $22.99 Rendered homeless and penniless by an ill-advised investment with a friend, abetted by an unblinking court system, a couple in their fifties face profound economic and social upheaval. Yet these are rendered relatively minor by the terminal medical diagnosis passed upon Moth, the writer’s husband of over thirty years, who is told to expect a debilitating, painful and inevitable decline. Forced from the Welsh farm which had been their home and provided their livelihoods for decades, ‘running from the rupture’ in their lives, they decide to walk and wild camp England’s 630-mile South West Coast Path. It’s a decision borne from a paucity of options and fear of the void, a far cry from the usual selfimprovement or personal identity dross published to breathless acclaim in this social media fuelled age. Setting off illequipped, not even their health intact, the author charts the highs and lows of their journey along the salt path as they battle the elements and a chronic lack of money to survive. 92

Silverview by John le Carré Published by Viking (Penguin Books) ISBN 9780241550076 $32.99 A last novel from John le Carré (who died in December of 2020), his twenty-sixth no less, and a worthy memorial to his talent. Here, fittingly, we find him exploring the later years of a group of agents as their careers wind down and they reckon with decisions taken and lives lived under layers of secrecy and deception. Set in a small seaside town over which the titular mansion looms, objectivity is brought to bear by an outsider who has renounced

The Lincoln Highway by Amor Towles Published by Hutchinson Heinemann (a Penguin Random House imprint) ISBN 9781786332530 $32.99

A narrative journey, beginning like Homer’s Odyssey in medias res – at a midpoint in space and in time – as two youthful brothers seek to understand their past and make a future for themselves. 1950’s America is shrugging off the traces of war and eyeing a prosperous future, although the bright lights of opportunity appear a good way distant from a repossessed farm in Nebraska and their father’s newly filled grave. Like so many before them, Emmett and Billy are drawn westwards to California by a complex amalgam of that innate urge for motion, the search for opportunity and a quest for reconciliation. Before they do so and to ‘have earned the right to hope’, there are settlements to be made and slates cleared in the country’s easternmost reaches in New York, at the beginning of its transcontinental Lincoln Highway. Like Billy’s guiding text, Professor Abernathe’s Compendium of Heroes, Adventurers, and Other Intrepid Travelers, this book is filled with heroes. However, it’s nuanced heroism, built upon a proclivity for kindness that ‘begins where necessity ends’, sometimes flawed by an excess of virtue or a tincture of vice. A beautifully told, fast-paced road novel from this enormously successful author, brimming with Americana.

Heatwave by Victor Jestin (translated by Sam Taylor) Published by Scribner ISBN 9781471199776 $27.99 An acclaimed, prize-winning debut by a young French writer, this novella is narrated from within the confines of a family holiday at a summer camp in the South of France. Leonard hovers on the cusp of adulthood, on the edges of both his family and teenage society, at his most comfortable observing from the beach’s fringing dunes. Sensitive, musical, unsure Leonard seeks love, acceptance and sex in whatever order they may come. A last long-weekend delivers rather more, witnessing a tumultuous loss of innocence from within the uncertainties and awkwardness of adolescence. No stranger to Camus, the book alternates between vigorous, earthy reality and a sort of detached, dreamlike state we all recall from summers past. Even after the noir plot and narrative arc has faded from memory and successor works realise a promising career, what will remain is the author’s resonant skill in capturing and rendering the sense of powerlessness of the age, its lack of life experience, of being swept along by tides which are only, at best, partly understood.

Desert Solitaire: A Season in the Wilderness by Edward Abbey Published by William Collins (a Harper Collins imprint) ISBN 9780008283339 $22.99 First published in 1968, this autobiographical paean to the landscapes of the American south-west and plea for their protection has remained in print for more than fifty years, receiving a recent bump in circulation with the tangerine idiot’s (now reversed) rollback of national park boundaries in the area. After falling in love with the desert on a trip west in his youth, Abbey spent several seasons based as a ranger in Utah’s Arches National Monument. Desert Solitaire resulted from this time, his patience and powers of observation, taste for solitude, a burning opposition to the relentless press of development, and the erudition available from wide reading and scholarly achievement. While the language soars when describing the harsh beauty of the desert and its nonhuman inhabitants, this is no travel guide, decrying ‘industrial tourism,’ pavement colonisation and exhorting readers to come, if they must, only in small numbers and on foot. It more closely resembles the retreat-literature style of Walden, transposed a century later from Thoreau’s pond to a vastly different space and scale, mixing adventure and anecdote with natural history, geology, high art, philosophy and environmental activism. Abbey rails against the arrogance of anthropocentricity, revelling in nature’s ‘implacable indifference’ to ‘the little world of men.’ One beautiful chapter describes a trip on the Colorado River through a magical Glen Canyon, capturing the existential distress and collective impoverishment of its impending loss to submersion under Lake Powell, a boating playground. Were he alive today, Abbey’s anarchic nature would be enjoying Lake Powell’s recreational demise to drought resulting from human-induced climate change, and Glen Canyon’s steady re-emergence.

Faces and places

Bev MacInnes – Photographed at Bev’s Remnant House – Willunga Gardener, traveller, textile lover and op shop explorer Intrepid traveller Bev MacInnes brings her experience in architecture, design and theatre together to showcase beautiful textiles and homewares on the Fleurieu. Bev’s Remnant House began in Redfern, Sydney. After more than a decade of successful trading, Bev sought a change of scenery and the Fleurieu beckoned. In 2020 Bev happily settled in Aldinga Beach, finding a new home for her curatorial sensibilities on Willunga’s High Street. Photo by Jason Porter.

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Taken an amazing photo on the Fleurieu lately? Tag us on Instagram and you could see your handiwork in print. Each issue we’ll choose an image to publish right here in the pages of FLM. @fleurieulivingmagazine This image of both the causeways at Victor Harbor was captured by Tommy Woods : @iamtommywoods

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Top: Sam Dugmore of The Latebloomers will appear at the 2022 Kangaroo Island Fringe Festival. Photo by Juha Vanhakartano. Bottom: Partake in a G&T at Kangaroo Island Spirits, or a delicious platter at False Cape Wines on the Sights and Gourmet Delights tour.

Autumn on Kangaroo Island It’s no secret, Kangaroo Island (KI) is one of South Australia’s most popular travel destinations. But what makes this southern escape so one-of-a-kind? With exquisite, dense bushland and serene, tranquil beaches, there’s a sense of untamed, ecological magic in KI’s air. It’s a place that replenishes body and soul with its many natural and human-made wonders. Whether you’re in search of a peaceful couple’s getaway, or an adventure for the whole family, there’s a beach, cellar door or national park to please every traveller. Here’s some of the best autumn experiences Kangaroo Island has to offer. Sights and Gourmet Delights tour Ready your tastebuds and bring the camera, Kangaroo Island Odyssey’s new tour will guide you through the best eateries and the most picturesque locations you can imagine. Over two days and one night, a local guide will take you on a personalised journey to meet the KI locals. See koalas, kangaroos, sea lions and native birds rest in their natural habitats alongside the stunning views of Seal Bay, Remarkable Rocks, Admirals Arch and much more. With a minimum 98

of two people per tour, you’re able to create your own experience and get to know your guide as you explore not only the natural sights, but also the epicurean delights of False Cape Wines Cellar door, Kangaroo Island Spirits for a gin sampling and The Oyster Farm for tastings and a demonstration. Relax for the night at the stunning Aurora Ozone Hotel and let KI work its magic. Kangaroo Island Fringe Festival Back for another year and ready to impress, the Kangaroo Island Fringe Festival will be rolling into The Shearing Shed at Eleanor Downs, among wide open paddocks, gum trees and open skies. This event brings the best acts to the Island, with music, theatre, comedy and circus acts ready to dazzle young and old. It’s a oneof-a-kind experience to see classic Fringe acts inside the refurbished shearing shed which overlooks the farm’s sprawling paddocks in the heart of KI. From 4 pm to 11 pm on March 26, enjoy a vast array of entertainment while you munch on local food and sip on local beer and wine. Bring the kids to enjoy workshops and market stalls while you indulge. If you are taking a self-guided tour – here’s some of our favourite stops. To eat and drink: Cactus in Kingscote or cruise the Cygnet River Artisan Trail. To stay: Mercure Kangaroo Island Lodge. To see: As much of Flinders Chase as you can fit in and Stokes Bay for the beauty of this hidden wild bay.

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SOCIAL PAGES

Being Social: FLM’s 10th anniversary party Our summer issue marked 10 years in business and what better place to celebrate than at the new Oliver’s Taranga cellar door. With the Oliver’s vineyards as the backdrop – guests enjoyed a greeting to country from Karl Winda Telfer and cool tunes from DJ Sidwho. Delicious cocktail food from Chef Todd Steele and a chocolate mud sponge with dark chocolate mousse and strawberries from The Fleurieu Kitchen were complemented by Oliver’s Quince Gin and fine wines. It was a great evening to enjoy all the Fleurieu has to offer! Special thanks to MC Perscia Maung.

01. DJ Sidwho, Mark van Gestel and Karl Winda Telfer. 02. Angela Lisman and Heidi Lewis. 03. Evan James and Janna Corso. 04. Lori-Ellen Shiell and Petra de Mooy. 05. Perscia Maung, Jason Porter and Petra de Mooy. 06. Don and Margie Oliver. 07. Georgie Lightowler and Mark Koen. 08. Charles Rubenhold and Leonie Hick. 09. Sally Hams, Dianna Conte and Sarah White. 10. Dylan Beach and Marie Sulda. 11. Karl Winda Telfer.

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Fleurieu weddings Morgan and Arron Lyall were married at Chapel Hill on 11th November 2021. Story by Izzy McMillan. Photography by Ahlia Sanders.

Above: The beautiful bride wearing a bespoke wedding dress by Megan Caldersmith.

Morgan and Arron Lyall were, some might say, destined to meet. Arron lived across the road from Morgan’s best friend, but it was many years later when another friend spotted their romantic potential and suggested they might make a good match – and a spark was ignited. The two are a perfect balance. Morgan, a wildly optimistic, bubbly burst of energy says she sometimes forgets to stop working and enjoy the little moments in life. Whereas Arron, a musician and massage

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therapist, who lost his vision six months before meeting Morgan, provides her with a grounding influence, knowing when to tell her to take a break and slow down a bit. On the day of their engagement, Arron planned for a photographer to capture their special moment. As the big surprise was unveiled in the Adelaide Botanic Gardens, Arron struggled to get the words out, so simply got down on one knee, pulling the ring out of his pocket. Actions often do speak louder than words. With her background as events coordinator at the Salopian Inn, Morgan was no stranger to planning weddings in the region. But when COVID restrictions took their April 2020 wedding from a planned one-hundred guests down to only allowing five, they had no choice but to postpone.

Top left. Morgan and Arron Lyall. Top right: Mother-of-the bride, Cathy Phillips helps with the veil. Bottom: Bride and Groom arriving for the reception at Chapel Hill with Kombi Cruise.

Disheartened, but still hopeful they would someday create their dream day, Morgan and Arron spent the time focusing on their upcoming business venture, and building their own home. Together they opened Harmonised Health on Willunga’s High Street with Arron seeing massage clients and Morgan working as a naturopath. They eventually set a new date for November 2021, choosing Chapel Hill for the celebration. The day flowed seamlessly, starting with the ceremony on the lawns, before guests made the short walk up the hill to the historic chapel for the reception. Morgan wore a bespoke dress handcrafted by Megan from She Sews in McLaren Vale. The dress was a mixture of ideas Morgan had seen in other dresses, with the final design crafted to capture Morgan’s

personal style perfectly. Arron’s beloved guide dog Helix attended their special day in a little red bow tie, and enjoyed cleaning up crumbs throughout the reception and into the night that followed. Morgan and Arron are especially grateful for the collection of people who came together to make their dream wedding a possibility. From the organisers at Chapel Hill who created their ideal venue, to the caterers from the Salopian; their photographer who perfectly captured every emotion and the videographer who specially recorded their vows so Arron would be able to hear them in the wedding video. This beautiful mix of local people created a day that Morgan and Arron will never forget. They’re still on cloud nine and probably will be for a very long time to come.

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My Goolwa: What the locals love about Goolwa life Photography by Joel Maung, Year 12 Tatachilla graduate. 01. Dannii and Caitlin at the Goolwa Health Co. In 2022 this ‘health hub’ will be expanding their offerings. 02. Jessica at the Alexandrina Business Hub was excited to tell us about the High School redevelopment and the Master Plan upgrades planned for the Goolwa Wharf Precinct. 03. John Foubister at the South Coast Regional Art Centre. A contemporary painter, John says he stays at home and paints but loves the location with the meeting of the sea and the river and the fresh air. 04. Lou Nicholson is excited to see our Main Street and wharf precinct continue to improve and attract visitors. 05. Mayor Keith Parkes – at Goolwa Wharf. Keith loves the river, the ocean and the surrounding countryside and vineyards saying, ‘The people are lovely.’ The future is looking even brighter for Goolwa as all levels of government work together to fund redevelopment and growth in the township. Amongst them the Goolwa Wharf Precinct

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and the Signal Point Experience Centre will further enhance the towns offerings as a thriving must see tourist destination on the Fleurieu. 06. Georgia Livingston at Mila Alexandra. Georgia loves the river and the beach and loved growing up in the sporting community. 07. Leah works as the Arts and Cultural Development Officer for the Alexandrina Council. Leah is excited about the redevelopment of the Signal Point building to an Experience Centre showcasing Ngarrindjeri culture, colonial heritage, local produce and contemporary art. 08. Kade Brown and Carin Kappler at Heritage Pies and Pastries. Kade and Carin both agree that Goolwa is ‘pretty chill’ and Carin likes knowing that people are there for each other in the community. 09. Kathleen Fry and Dean Ray at Harcourts South Coast enthuse that Goolwa is a ‘real community’ and also appreciate that the heritage of the town hasn’t been spoiled by development.

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Fleurieu Living Magazine Autumn 2022

Articles inside

Out and about: My Goolwa

Morgan and Arron Lyall – Chapel Hill 11th November, 2021

Autumn events: Kangaroo Island

FLM turns 10 at Oliver’s Taranga

Photo from a reader

Bev MacInnes at Coco & Raj

Autumn book reviews from South Seas Books

Tasting Australia’s Fleurieu events

Willunga Farmers Market Producer Profile: Harvest the Fleurieu

The Fleurieu through a local traveller’s eyes

Fresh destinations

Fleurieu Future Leaders: Five years on

Ordinary, extraordinary Honor Freeman

Wellness travel: A healthy hedonist

Local hero: Harry’s Garden at Wirra Wirra

Uncorked: Southern Rhone

Love and furniture Huw McConachy

Who we are: Evie Harrison, Eve Bud Blooms

Who we are: Josh Morphett Space Jams

Poem: Zoë Kassiotis

Diary dates to keep you busy this autumn

Let there be light: Bespoke makers

Who we are: Karena Armstrong Expanding tastes