July 2017 Feast Magazine

Page 1

Inspired Local Food Culture |

feastmagazine.com |

j u ly 2 0 1 7

p. 5 6

HOT DOG DAYS OF SUMMER p. 7 5

STATE PARK EATS AND DRINKS p. 8 4

RIO SYRUP CO.



Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

3


Hit the Road on the Way to Family Fun! RVs Available for Sale and Rent Local and Family Owned Since 1948 www.byerlyrv.com 636-938-2000


july 2017

56 64 75 84

hot dog days of summer

relish america’s favorite summertime staple at these 19 hot dog and sausage joints.

instant ocean

kc shrimp co. is raising sustainable Pacific white saltwater shrimp in the heart of the country.

appetite for adventure

from sit-down restaurants overlooking scenic vistas to small snack bars situated near natural wonders, good eats abound at these 13 missouri state parks.

summer in rio

for the past 77 years, one st. Louis family has made life a little sweeter at home and across the globe.

from the staff

|6|

from the PUBLIsher

| 10 |

dIgItaL content

| 12 |

feast tv

Summer eating list What’s online this month Delicious design

dIne

| 16 |

on trend

| 18 |

where we’re dInIng

| 19 |

one on one

| 20 |

one on one

| 22 |

In season

| 23 |

one on one

Food-truck parks Tavernonna Italian Kitchen, Polite Society, Persimmon Hill Farm Logan Ely of Square1 Michael Corvino of Corvino Tasting Room & Supper Club Peaches

Drake Tillman and Hansel Herschend of Canvas

drInk

| 28 |

on trend

| 30 |

where we’re drInkIng

| 31 |

one on one

| 32 |

the mIx

| 33 |

on the sheLf

| 33 |

one on one

Shim cocktails Juice Smoothie, Charleville Brewing Co. & Tavern, Monarch Coffee Benay Shannon of Restless Spirits Distilling Co. Spirited Road What to drink this month Mary Guccione of Cellar + Plate

shoP

| 36 |

shoP here

| 36 |

get thIs gadget

| 38 |

one on one

| 38 |

cULInary LIBrary

| 40 |

shoP here

| 40 |

artIsan ProdUcts

Poputopia Gourmet Popcorn & Treatery A Himalayan salt block and a s’mores maker Andrew Tessmer of BeerSauce Shop The Poptail Manual by Kathy Kordalis Libations & Co. Café Cusco Loco Roco Hot Sauce and Spicewine Ironworks Blue Collar B-B-Q Sauce

cook

| 46 | | 48 | taBLe of contents Photo of the jUmBo dog from mIckey’s 76 drIve In (P. 56) By Brad zweerInk cover Photo of troPIcaL moose shaved Ice wIth rIo syrUP co. syrUP (P. 84) By jonathan gayman

heaLthy aPPetIte

Summer squash skewers mystery shoPPer

Mojama

| 50 |

qUIck fIx

| 52 |

sweet Ideas

Roasted corn salad Icebox cake


Volume 8

| Issue 7 | July 2017

Vice President of niche Publishing, Publisher of feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

sales

director of sales

Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 account Manager

Jennifer Tilman, jtilman@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1205 sPecial Projects editor

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1244

eDITORIal senior editor

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing editor

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com digital editor

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas city contributing editor

Jenny Vergara st. louis contributing editor

Mabel Suen

This triple-layer cake, made with stout beer, sour cream and lots of butter, is frosted with a chocolate-and-coffee buttercream. The flavor of the beer comes through in the deep chocolate batter, and the mocha frosting is a perfect match. I’ve received the most feedback on this cake, and you can find the (surprisingly easy) recipe at feastmagazine.com.

editorial intern

Huong Truong fact checKer

Rose Hansen Proofreader

Christine Wilmes contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Ettie Berneking, Sherrie Castellano, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Natalie Gallagher, April Fleming, Rose Hansen, Hilary Hedges, Kaitlynn Martin, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Matt Seiter, Jenn Tosatto, Jessica Vaughn, Shannon Weber

aRT

art director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production designer

Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com contributing PhotograPhers

Zach Bauman, Angela Bond, Sherrie Castellano, Curt Dennison, Jonathan Gayman, Mark Neuenschwander, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Ana Pierce, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Christopher Smith, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Cheryl Waller, Brad Zweerink

FeasT TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

COnTaCT Us Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com

DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at jmoore@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2017 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

6

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

publisher’s letter

C

oast to coast, a quintessential American summertime treat is the snow cone (or sno cone or shaved ice or shave ice, depending on where you live and how it’s made). From state fairs to frozen-cocktail bars, piles of snowlike ice are drenched in bright, sweet syrup in flavors such as cherry, pink bubble gum, Blue Hawaii and Wild Banana. The hot-weather treat is so ubiquitous that you may not stop to wonder where those syrups come from. Believe it or not, the syrup on your snow cone, whether you enjoy it in Springfield, Massachusetts, or Springfield, Missouri, was most likely made by a small, family-run company in St. Louis called Rio Syrup Co. Turn to p. 84 for digital editor Heather Riske’s profile of the Tomber family and learn how this technicolored treat began as a soda syrup in one small South City movie theater. And what’s another made-in-America indulgence? The hot dog. Plain with mustard in a steamed bun or “drug through the garden,” hot dogs are a perfect vehicle for an array of toppings. This blank canvas allows creative chefs to play, and we’ve rounded up some top dogs for you to try including something called the SouthPaw at O’Doggy’s in Rolla, Missouri, where an all-beef dog

is topped with a black-eyed peas, corn, tomatoes, peppers, avocado and chipotle mayo. Sound tasty? Turn to p. 56 for the rest of the best. I, for one, will be sure to snag a Polish sausage from Dirty Dogz next time I’m at Home Depot here in St. Louis. After all those snow cones and hot dogs, you may need to go for a hike. Missouri is full of state parks that allow you to get up close and personal with the state’s abundant natural beauty. I know many people who have never trekked a trail, which is a shame because this part of the country has much to offer those wanting to get outdoors and explore. On p. 75 we have Rose Hansen’s comprehensive look at what awaits you at our state parks, including, of course, all the great eats you can try when you get there, like catfish tacos at Pomme de Terre State Park in Pittsburg, Missouri. That’s definitely on my summer eating list.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville


07.17 natalie gallagher Kansas City, Writer

ity C s a s Kan f o t Bes e h ce t n e i r e p x E

“What I love best about writing for Feast is the unique story opportunities, like getting to interview Mitch and Julie Schieber, the couple that brough KC Shrimp Co. to life. Together, the Schiebers grow and harvest saltwater shrimp at their farm in Oak Grove, Missouri. Seeing how production works firsthand was incredible – especially when one of the little baby shrimps jumped out of the tank and onto me. More than anything, it was great to get a behind-the-scenes look at the work that goes into providing a food experience that, until recently, was unheard of around these parts. In Kansas City, you can have your shrimp and eat it, too! ” (Instant Ocean, p. 64)

cheryl waller

Historic Landmark Hotel & Iconic Country Club Plaza

St. Louis, Photographer “I really enjoyed working on this feature about the must-try dogs, brats and sausages in the St. Louis area. I had the opportunity to visit each location and talk with the owners, chefs or employees, all of whom were very welcoming and kind. I loved learning about the history of a few of the locations such as Woofie’s and Carlos’ Hot Dogs; Carlos Pereira is such a friendly and fun person to chat with. I also enjoyed seeing the variety of hot dogs places offer, from the classic to the most unique. I never would have guessed that hot dogs could be so gourmet.“ (Hot Dog Days of Summer, p. 56)

Weekend Jazz Concerts #StringsontheGreen

Mark of Culinary Artistry

huong truong

#FridayswithJoe

St. Louis, Writer “I’ve gained a new appreciation for the entrepenuer’s spirit of bringing people what they want. After covering BeerSauce Shop, I learned that great ideas often manifest themselves from what the community lacks. Andrew Tessmer and Rick Duree are bringing more than just sauces and craft brews to the community: They’re creating opportunities for their community to learn more about what they love in the hope of inspire others. That’s why I find their ideas of hosting barbecue, whiskey and craft brew classes every week genius. As someone who lacks that knowledge but wants to learn how to make delicious barbecue, that’s something I need.” (One on One, p. 38)

Romantic Getaway & Celebration Packages Classic Kansas City Restaurant & Lounge Live KC Jazz Nightly & Weekend Jazz Brunch

angela c. bond Kansas City, Photographer “Being a commercial food photographer for the past 12 years has given me the opportunity to see several of Kansas City’s farm-to-table operations. However, I’ve never seen or even knew we had a shrimp farm in the area. When I went to KC Shrimp Co., I was fascinated at the efficient operation they have. Photographing slippery shrimp was a bit of a challenge: I was working with shrimp, spices, ice, lemons, colored paper and props that all had to be handled and photographed. I was also able to see the great recipes created by some of Kansas City’s talented chefs. Of course, a perk to being a food photographer is getting to sample some of these items, as well! There’s never a dull moment when you get to visually document food and the process by which it’s prepared, served or where it comes from.” (Instant Ocean, p. 64)

Romantic Escapes #UniquelyRaphael

325 Ward Parkway I Country Club Plaza I 816.756.3800 I raphaelkc.com Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

7


TomaTo explosion

STL

throughout July, participating restaurants, St. Louis, operationfoodsearch.org

Dine out throughout the month of July and help Operation Food Search, Feast Magazine and 80-plus top local restaurants connect kids at risk for hunger to nutritious meals this summer. Order the special tomato-inspired dish featured on the menu, and a portion of the proceeds will be donated to OFS to support its Summer Hunger Initiative.

07/01 07/31

STL

Feast tV TasTe & see: experimenTal KiTchen Fri., July 21, 7pm; $15; Public Media Commons, 3653 Olive St., St. Louis; feastmagazine.com/events

Discover what goes into opening a successful restaurant. Explore innovative, ingredient-driven cuisine that is setting the stage for what’s next on everyone’s plate. The event kicks off with live music and will feature segments from Feast TV on two-story screens, interviews with local chefs and live cooking demos.

07/21

STL

a TasTe oF Greece Sat., July 22, 11am to 4pm; $15.95; The Greek Kitchen, 15939 Manchester Road, Ellisville, Missouri; 636.686.7200;

Book Your

Special Event TodaY!

07/22

KC

Join the Chicks and celebrate Kansas City’s love for food, drinks and shopping local. At this summer tasting event, enjoy samples from restaurants, wineries, breweries and coffee roasters, and vote for your favorites. Shop the marketplace with more than 30 local vendors while listening to live music. VIP Tasting Experience and hotel packages are available.

07/22

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

summer Foodie chicK evenT Nall Avenue, Leawood, Kansas; chickevents.com/events/foodiechickevent

3707 S. Kingshighway Blvd. St. Louis, MO 63109 Rusticroomevents.com

8

Come enjoy the authentic flavors of the Mediterranean at The Greek Kitchen in Ellisville, Missouri. The event includes samples from the menu – Greek salad, kebabs, pita bread, dessert and more – and live music.

Sat., July 22, 4 to 9pm; $35 general admission, $50 VIP; Park Place, 117th Street and

314-832-9009

The Rustic Room has 3 rooms that separate into a large open room that seats 175. The Entry Room seats 50, has a full bar and wheelchair accessible bathrooms. The Party Room seats 60 and has wheelchair accessible bathrooms, dance floor, and stage. The Banquet Room has a large food buffet and a second bar with T.V. The rooms are able to be separated for smaller events using our 2 huge rustic barn doors.

thegreekkitchen.net


STL

sChnuCks Cooks: roasted Corn salad With GarliC-lime dressinG Wed., July 26, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

In this class you’ll learn how to grill a porterhouse steak at home. You’ll also learn how to make an easy summery stir-fry of eggplant and peppers, plus a roasted corn salad. PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

07/26

STL

st. louis Craft Beer Week Fri., July 28 to Sat., Aug. 5; times, prices and locations vary; stlbeerweek.com

Celebrate the local craft-beer scene with nine days of events in the St. Louis metro area. Talk to brewers, pair food with beer and meet other beer enthusiasts at events including the sixth-annual Firkin Fest, a barrel-aged blowout, sour beer-pairing dinner, brewery trivia night and a 5K run. PHOTO BY ELAINE RHODE

07/28 08/05

STL

loufest Sat., Sept. 9 and Sun., Sept. 10, times vary; prices vary, start at $95; Forest Park, St. Louis; loufest.com

LouFest returns for its eighth and best year yet. This year’s lineup includes Snoop Dogg, Weezer, Cage the Elephant, Run the Jewels, Nathaniel Rateliff & the Night Sweats, Spoon and more. Get your tickets now for the amazing two-day festival in beautiful Forest Park, with more than 30 bands and 50,000 attendees. Plus, check out the other on-site festivities including the Nosh Pit, Market Square, BrewFest, LouKidz, Mo Wine Trail, 1917 Cocktail Party and many more attractions for the whole family to enjoy.

09/09 09/10

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

9


this month on

feastmagazine.com

PhotograPhy by ettie berneKing

PhotograPhy by mabel Suen

the feed

We’re giving away a pair of tickets to the summer Foodie Chick event in leawood, Kansas, on Sat., July 22. enjoy samples from restaurants, wineries, breweries and coffee roasters, and vote for your favorites. Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for the details.

St. Peters has a new craft-beer tasting room complete with in-house brews and a full food menu. Third Wheel Brewing’s brewpub features five beers on draft, guest taps, burgers, foot-long hot dogs and more.

sgf One local chef has given Springfield cashew chicken a serious upgrade. Andy Hampshire of Farmers Gastropub has added some British-style flair to the famed dish with the addition of buttermilk fried chicken livers.

PhotograPhy by aPril Fleming

It’s the most wonderful time of the year: patio season! Temperatures are rising and restaurants are breaking out their patio furniture. To celebrate, we’ve rounded up our favorite al fresco spots in Springfield, Missouri, from quaint courtyards to trendy cocktail bars. PHOTOs BY AnA PierCe

10

KC For nearly 40 years, Kansas City Community Gardens has engaged in a metro-wide effort to educate the community about one of the city’s most under-utilized food resources: Its own fertile land. The organization has grown to support several hundred gardens and a diverse range of programs and services. feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


Membership Has Its Privileges Perhaps you’ve been looking for a place to rejuvenate your soul, feel cared for, and relish victories big and small. A place you’ll find artisanal cuisine, hand-crafted cocktails in a beautiful sanctuary.

Welcome to Blood & Sand. Where meaningful relationships with our members and guests are the source of inspiration. Named by USA Today: 10 Amazing Chef’s Tables You Should Know About 2 Private Dining Rooms Available

www.bloodandsandstl.com

It’s Everything You Never Knew You Loved

ph 314-241-7263 Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

11


We all know the old adage that you eat with your eyes; it also extends to the design of objects that are associated with food culture. Dining tables, chairs, flatware, glasses, linens and even the brand identity of the products we use impact our experience of food and drink. We take you into the studios of people who are making the culinary experience more beautiful. Then, it’s off to the kitchen with Cat Neville where she uses a locally brewed stout in a chocolate layer cake frosted with coffee buttercream.

At 4 Hands Brewing Co., photographer and former tattoo artist Josh Rowan designs attention-grabbing labels for the brewery’s unique beers.

Host Cat Neville whips up a rich, fudgy triple-layer cake frosted with coffee buttercream and pairs it with sherry from Stone Hill Winery.

In Augusta, Missouri, Sam Stang and Kaeko Maehata craft gorgeous pieces of functional glass that will brighten up your dining experience.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

12

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

With a focus on sustainability and great design, IKEA is your destination for affordable, innovative and high-quality kitchen products.

Kaldi’s Coffee is dedicated to creating a memorable coffee experience for customers and guests via sustainable practices and education.

Ole Tyme Produce provides some of the finest produce in the St. Louis region, serving restaurants, hotels, food service and catering companies.

The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.


KITCHEN~WINE~WHISKEY Something different, something for everyone 5065 State Highway N Cottleville, MO 63304 636.244.0574

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Wednesdays at 7pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 8am and 6:30pm.

American Comfort Food From-Scratch Kitchen Lunch, Dinner, Sunday Brunch Top Shelf Whiskey List Robust Wine Menu Private Event Space Cigar Lounge

TheRackHouseKWW.com

LAKE OF THE OZARKS more coastline than california

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 7pm.

and it’s only 3 hours away

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Sundays at noon and Mondays at 12:30pm.

Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

13


Open

DAILY

FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND DINNER

Savor authentic Italian fare just like “nonna” used to make. From classic favorites like wood-fired Margherita pizza and house-made pasta, to seasonal desserts like slow-churned gelato, Cibare is a little taste of Italy right in St. Louis.

888.578.7289 | rivercity.com Must be age 21 or older to gamble. Gambling problem? Call 1-888-BETSOFF. ©2017 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 14

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


have a ball

Savor Nonna's Meatballs at Tavernonna Italian Kitchen inside the newly renovated Hotel Phillips in Kansas City on p. 18. photography by anna petrow


food- truck parks

Written by heather riske

|

PhotograPhy by ana Pierce

British pasties, New York-style pizza and carnitas tacos don’t normally share real estate on the same menu, but that’s exactly what you’ll find served up from the trucks parked at SGF Mobile Food Park in Springfield, Missouri – and then some. Capitalizing on the food-truck craze of the past decade, food-truck parks are offering diners myriad cuisines to choose from while providing a quick, easy meal without sacrificing quality.

Bangers and mash pasty from London Calling

Hawaiian pizza from Chef Baldee's Pizza

Waffle club sandwich from The Waffle Company

Visit feastmagazine.com to go behind the scenes at SGF Mobile Food Park in the food-truck episode of Feast TV's new season. Turn to page 13 for air dates near you. 16

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


LittLe PiGGy

The Ultimate Steak Sandwich from Twisted Mike's Food Truck

KANsAs CitY. Last summer, Michael Foust – chef-owner of The Farmhouse in River Market – transformed a used-car lot in Kansas City’s Westside neighborhood into the Little Piggy food-truck hub. Foust was inspired to open the lot after seeing similar concepts in Portland and Austin, but the idea for Little Piggy wasn’t born until he purchased a 35-foot-long 1953 Spartan Aircraft Co. trailercoach for his Red Wattle food truck – and needed somewhere to park it. (Foust no longer owns Red Wattle.) In addition to three permanent trucks (Wilma’s Food Truck, serving “redneck French fare;” Anousone's, serving Laotian, Thai and Vietnamese fare; and The Casual Foodie’s truck, which serves farm-to-table American fusion), the lot has space for one guest truck and three spots for other trucks to park overnight. This spring, Foust began working to expand Little Piggy to include a dining room made from shipping containers and a small bar. Little Piggy is currently closed for renovations while it petitions the city for a liquor license, but Foust hopes to reopen this month. “In the past 10 years we’ve seen amazing things happening with food trucks, and it was just a matter of time before you start getting a little bit of organization between them,” he says.

3014 southwest Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri, facebook.com/littlepiggykc

Louie Court st. Louis. This spring, Steak Louie chef-owner Paul Listenberger

Jerk chicken dinner from The Hibiscus Jerk Hut

launched St. Louis’ first food-truck court along with fellow trucks Farmtruk (which serves farm-to-table fare) and Go! Gyro! Go! (specializing in the classic Greek sandwich). Louie Court is unique in that it’s indoors: Diners enter the café (the former Annie Moons Bakery in Tower Grove South), place their order at the counter and take a seat inside, while orders are cooked in the café’s kitchen and on the trucks. In addition to hand-cut premium cheesesteaks, locally sourced sandwiches and gyros, look for a rotating truck to park at the court each month. “There’s an ability to bring in different things to the court and work together on one project; you don’t always get that in the restaurant business, or any other business for that matter,” Listenberger says. “The teamwork that you get out of food trucks is really something special.” 4001 utah st., st. Louis, Missouri

SGF MobiLe Food Park sPRiNGFiELD, Mo. On a given day, you’ll find anywhere from

eight to 12 trucks – like London Calling Pasty Co., Chef Baldee’s Pizza, Momma Mary’s Navajo Tacos and The Hibiscus Jerk Truck, to name a few – parked at the sGF Mobile Food Park. Landlord Ken Walker opened the park in 2012 to make use of the massive parking lot next to Transport Graphics, the graphic design company he co-owns. “There’s only one barbecue guy, there’s only one pizza guy and there’s only one taco guy – do you see my theme?” he says. “I try not to get competing genres.” The trucks each operate on their own schedule; some might open their window seven days a week, while others might just roll into the lot during business-lunch hours. As for the food park’s popularity? “I think it just boils down to people who are in a hurry and don’t have time to sit down, but still want something high quality,” Walker says. “I’m telling you – the people in these food trucks are artists. It’s just unique food made by people who know your name, know your family, know your dog’s name. It’s a nice environment.” 836 N. Glenstone Ave., springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/sgfmobilefoodpark

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

17


where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.

PerSimmon hill Farm Written by ettie berneKing

|

PhotograPhy by Starboard & Port CreatiVe

LAMPE, MO. if apples are the telltale sign of fall, it’s blueberries that ring in summer in the ozarks. you’ll find plenty of blueberries at Persimmon Hill Farm in lampe, Missouri, near the arkansas border, with 75 acres of blackberries, elderberries, shiitake mushrooms and, of course, blueberries. From June through august, visitors can meander through tight rows of berries and fill buckets with fresh fruit. before heading home, stop inside the farm’s wood-clad café where windows wrap around the building, providing a panoramic view of the lush farm. loaded with fresh blueberries, the menu features stick-to-your-ribs home cookin’ for breakfast and lunch. thunder Muffins, which dwarf regular-sized ones, are peppered with blueberries, as are the blueberry cinnamon rolls, blueberry milkshakes and blueberry pancakes drizzled with – you guessed it – housemade blueberry syrup. Cheesy shiitake mushroom quesadillas, pulled pork sandwiches with blueberry barbecue sauce and shiitake sliders provide a savory kick, and the café’s bounty of housemade jams, syrups, lemonades, shiitake croutons, apple butters and barbecue sauces can be purchased for home use. When you start your morning with farm-fresh blueberry syrup, you know summer is officially in full swing.

367 Persimmon Hill Lane, Lampe, Missouri, persimmonhill.com

Polite Society Story and PhotograPhy Mabel Suen

ST. LOUIS. Polite Society recently

tavernonna italian Kitchen Written by Jenny Vergara

|

PhotograPhy by anna PetroW

KANSAS CITY. the historic hotel Phillips in downtown Kansas City underwent a

splashy $20 million renovation last year, which was squarely focused on updating the food and beverage program inside the art-deco gem. Tavernonna Italian Kitchen serves breakfast, lunch and dinner in a stylish new dining room – including a gleaming white-tile bar that gives it a modern vibe with casual charm. executive chef bryant Wigger hails from Clarksville, Missouri, and the menu at tavernonna benefits from his work in California kitchens including the now-shuttered trattoria neapolis in Pasadena and the ritz-Carlton laguna niguel in dana Point. Start with nonna’s Meatballs and then order the spaghetti cacio e pepe featuring a touch of pecorino and freshly ground black pepper topped with a poached egg. 106 W. 12th St., Kansas City, Missouri, tavernonna.com

18

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

opened in St. louis’ lafayette Square neighborhood, providing a new destination for eclectic contemporary american cuisine with an atmosphere to match. the concept pays homage to the area’s historical roots and surrounding architecture with shelves of antique books and Victorian influences including the brand’s logo, a penny-farthing. Chef thomas Futrell has created an elegant and fresh menu to cater to the tastes of the neighborhood. Choose from seasonal selections such as confit chicken wings, pickled root vegetable salad, deviled eggs with trout roe, and the Jimmy burger, ground-chuck patties topped with american cheese, onion straws, sweet-smoky tomato glaze and whole-grain mustard aïoli on a pretzel bun. behind the bar, Polite Society serves a selection of 30 beers, an extensive wine list and more than a dozen specialty cocktails; try the low tea with green tea and kaffir lime-leaf vodka, giffard triple Sec, honey and lime juice. 1923 Park Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, politesocietystl.com


logan ely

chef-owner, square1 project

q&A

NEED A PLACE TO START YOUR FOOD ENTREPRENEUR BUSINESS?

Written by kaitlynn Martin

photography by j. pollack photography

Why did you start Square1 Project? i came back to St. louis in February without any plans, and i started looking for a space where i could do dinners on the weekend. i wanted my own lab or test kitchen where i could work out ideas in my head. What’s something that stood out to you in your travels? So many things have stuck with me. When i was in new york, i worked with Michael gallina at blue hill [at Stone barns]. it’s funny that Michael and i met, because it’s rare to meet other St. louis chefs outside of St. louis. but now that i’m back in St. louis, i feel like an out-of-towner. i’m rediscovering the area and figuring out what i want to cook along the way. What kind of equipment do you work with at Square1 Project? i just needed a space that was clean, had plumbing and a bathroom. it’s pretty crazy what we’re working with: there’s a toaster oven, an induction burner and two pots. this forces me to be creative, and it’s a big influence on what i create. What’s one example of the dishes you’ve been serving? i bake celery roots that are buried in spent coffee grounds from Sump coffee, then top them with a sauce made of allium and shallots which has been cooked for 40 days. there’s no set menu for the dinners, but i usually make around 10 to 14 courses. How would you describe your cooking style? i think there is an underlying theme of being environmentally responsible. i’m collecting items that would be wasted, such as lemon and orange rinds. Using these items to make a tasty dish is definitely a challenge, but fun to put together. What’s your goal for Square1 Project? i want it to be an intimate, two-hour experience where everyone is just hanging out and enjoying themselves. i don’t see this as a pop up of sorts, because it’s essentially a restaurant, just open two days a week. every Friday and Sunday i will be there cooking, and i hope people come out and enjoy it. What’s next? i’ve been looking for a restaurant space, but i still want to make more connections in the city and really see how people react to these dinners. i’d like to have a restaurant with a similar concept to the dinners. this is more of a personal journey for me – i’m a pretty young cook, and this is part of my process of honing my skills and doing what i enjoy. i’m excited about the fact that this is the start. every week is going to get better from here – maybe we'll even buy a third pot!

th OUR RENT BY THE HOUR COMMERCIAL KITCHENS CAN GET YOU GOING. CONVENIENTLY LOCATED IN WEST ST. LOUIS COUNTY, CHECK US OUT AT;

www.thecreativecookery.com

LO

when he initially left his hometown, he had no plans to return for good. he’s worked in chicago, houston, new york city, hong kong and most recently, copenhagen. now back in St. louis, ely has launched Square1 Project, a two-night-per-week restaurant housed in a secret retail location. at his dinners, ely creates dishes like a tartlette with fermented potato mousse topped with cured egg yolks and pickled flowers. Diners interested in getting a taste of his work find Square1 project’s hushed location by reaching out to ely directly via his instagram and twitter accounts: @square1_project. on Friday and Sunday evenings at 8pm, a $60 reservation allows just 12 diners to enjoy 10 to 14 courses of ely’s latest creations.

rnerkc.c o ec

m o

ST. LoUIS. chef logan ely is a St. louis native, although he admits that

C

AL

ED

on

ne

n eo o

LY S O U R

C

summer sensations

smoked trout deviled eggs

New r Summe meNu

2620 S Glenstone Ave, Springfield, MO 65804 (417) 864-6994 farmersgastropub.com

Square1 Project, St. Louis, Missouri, instagram.com/square1_project Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

19


n eo o

ne

on

Whipped chicken liver on a Parmesan cracker with crispy honey, radish and anchovy.

michael corvino

chef-owner, corvino supper club & tasting room

q&A

Written By pete dulin

|

photography By angela Bond

KAnSAS CITY. diners were dismayed last year when it was announced that legendary Kansas

City restaurant the american was closing for regular dinner service. Fortunately, executive chef Michael Corvino and his wife, Christina, opened their own spot, Corvino Supper Club & Tasting Room, in the Crossroads arts district in March, combining a main dining room, a private tasting room and a stage for live music under one roof. the menu is designed around shareable seasonal dishes such as crab fried rice, chicken liver mousse and fried chicken served with butter lettuce for wrapping, pickled radishes and chile sauce. “it’s been eight months since i left the american; i started the business plan for the supper club two years ago,” Michael says. “i knew what i wanted to do: a social dining experience with shared plates.” How did you develop the concept? When Christina and i were in the first stages of planning, we spoke about the many things we enjoyed in dining, what kind of environment we wanted to live in [for] many hours each day and what could be profitable. a model that resonated with us was new york’s gramercy tavern. When you walk in, there is the combined bar and casual restaurant with delicious food you could have a couple times a week. hidden in the back is

20

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

its fine-dining side. We took that idea and allocated space appropriate for Kansas City diners. i love both styles of dining, as a chef and a guest. as an owner, the supper club is our workhorse, while the tasting room is our show horse. Why call it a supper club? We knew we didn't want our name to be Corvino restaurant – everyone would think it was an italian place. We started looking into the history of supper clubs, and it represented our intentions: a place where you could go for cocktail hour, have dinner, then stay late for drinks and entertainment. What role does music play at Corvino Supper Club? the music is influenced by our closest friends, musicians and music-lovers. We love having this as part of our sensory experience. We definitely don't stick only to jazz; Kansas City is rich with different talents. We have award-winning nanny assis who plays bossa nova, Bruno Bessa sings in portuguese, Julia haile sings soul better than anyone and Calvin arsenia plays led Zeppelin songs on the harp. [Music] is one part of your experience at the supper club, not the entire focus. The Supper Club menu is all shareable plates – how does that work? the menu represents how we love to eat at restaurants. We want delicious, quality ingredients, chef-driven dishes, and we want to try a lot of them. Christina and i often just order the entire appetizer menu and share. We want our guests to be able to try 10 flavors, not just a meat, potato and vegetable. We encourage our guests to order two to four plates for each person, based on what they order and how hungry they are. We price most of our plates affordably so you can have dinner within a budget. of course, you can blow up your experience with a Wagyu ribeye, caviar and a bottle of bubbles. 1830 Walnut St., Kansas City, Missouri, corvino.com


Summer Travel

promotion

Get out and explore all the region has to offer this season, from the rolling hills of Missouri wine country and winding paths of the Katy Trail to the summertime attractions from St. Louis to Cape Girardeau and across the state.

summering in st. louis

Lounge poolside, cocktail in hand, and listen to live music on Fridays and Saturdays on your visit to The Cheshire in St. Louis. Plus, you can borrow a bike and ride to nearby Forest Park. Summer packages start at $159.

scenic setting

314.647.7300, cheshirestl.com

Enjoy a relaxing weekend away in one of the dozen beautiful bed-and-breakfasts in Augusta, Missouri. Relax at the spa, shop, enjoy beverages from the local brewery and wineries, and walk or bike on the Katy Trail with scenic views of the countryside. 636.228.4005, augusta-chamber.org

southern charm

When traveling to wine country, grab a bite at The Silly Goose in the heart of Augusta, Missouri. The family-owned restaurant offers charm, unique Southern cooking and an unforgettable experience.

go green

Experience the beauty of Okawville, Illinois, at Roland Barkau Memorial Golf Course. Situated 41 miles from St. Louis, the course offers 18 holes with multiple tees to ensure a challenge for all players. 618.243.6610, rbmgolf.com

636.482.4667, sillygoosemo.com

unplug and unwind

Break from 21st-century distractions at Wildwood Springs Lodge in Steelville, Missouri. Explore the rivers and hills surrounding the bed-and-breakfast, and don’t miss the weekend concerts starting Sept. 23. 573.775.2400, wildwoodspringslodge.com

vine to table

Dine with picturesque views at Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard’s wine club parties and winemaker and field-to-table dinners in Potosi, Missouri, created with a locavore palate to please gourmet tastes. 573.438.4741, edg-clif.com

the great es-cape

Cape Girardeau in southeast Missouri has summer activities for the whole family, including the new Ship Wreck Island at Cape Splash Family Aquatic Center and the Discovery Playhouse, featuring a new ninja warrior-esque obstacle course and planetarium.

573.335.1631, visitcape.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

21


in season: July through august

Flamm Orchards CoBDen, il. Flamm Orchards in cobden, illinois, has 2,000 acres of fruits and vegetables,

peaches Written by nancy StileS

Sweet, lush and fragrant, chefs use ripe and fresh peaches in desserts, salads, drinks and more from July through the end of August.

including 275 acres purely dedicated to peach trees. the Flamm family has been harvesting fruit since 1888 – so it’s no surprise that its peach cobbler is a classic. Judy Flamm, who has since retired, has always loved to bake, and began experimenting with recipes in 2000. the family all got together and taste tested until they found the perfect recipe. “We would all be very honest and give her our opinion, and she would tweak the recipe,” co-owner Karen Flamm says. “We did that until we decided we had a standout favorite that we all loved.” the farm and orchard, about 16 miles south of carbondale, serves ice cream, peach cobbler, apple pie and more, depending on the season, at the Fruits & cream roadside stand; sidle up to a picnic table and dig in. “We get great feedback,” Flamm says. “We have people who’ve been coming back for years and years and years – some of them come quite a distance to have our cobbler.” before you leave, pick up your fill of housemade jams and jellies, plus some peaches to try your own hand at cobbler. “Start with fresh, juicy tree-ripened peaches,” Flamm says. “When you get peaches that come right off the farm, that’s going to have the best flavor and fragrance when you bake your cobbler.” Don’t miss the annual Peach Festival in cobden on Fri., aug. 4 and Sat., aug. 5. 8760 Old Hwy 51 N, Cobden, Illinois, flammorchards.com

ErnEstO’s WinE Bar st. louis. in the summer, it’s easy for Ernesto’s Wine Bar chef-owner rachel

Watts to get her hands on as many peaches as she can use. “they’re abundant, and they’re fresh and delicious!” she laughs. “i can pretty much go any place to get fresh peaches, and people really like the freshness of peach dishes.” ernesto’s recently ran a bourbon-peach pork dish, and added meatballs topped with a chipotle-peach sauce to the happy hour menu. the restaurant also makes its own sangria, flavored with whatever citrus and other fruits are in season, so look for a peach sangria at the benton Park wine bar this summer. “We have gardens out back where we’re growing fresh produce, so as soon as our beets come up, we’re looking to put a roasted beet salad on the menu: roasted beets with fresh peaches and goat cheese,” Watts says. “i think that when you pair [peaches] with goat cheese and the tanginess of the beets – it’s just a good match. Plus, i own a wine bar, and it’s pretty easy to pair summer wines with a dish like that.” 2730 McNair Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, ernestoswinebar.com

thE sundry Kansas City. the use of peaches at The Sundry in Kansas city illustrates

the restaurant and market’s philosophy: creative dishes made with local and seasonal food. this summer, owner ryan Wing is introducing housemade ice creams, including basil-peach, to use in desserts and floats. First, basil is steeped in warm milk, which is then chilled and churned into ice cream with puréed peaches that are spun in a lab centrifuge, plus more fresh peaches. the centrifuge allows Wing to use the whole peach, and as an additional bonus, prevents juice from leaching out and affecting the ice cream’s texture. the centrifuge is also used to make house sodas, including peach and Peaches & cream with Vain Foods vanilla extract. “[Peaches] are delicious, and they're a great example of why local food is important,” Wing says. “Peaches, strawberries and tomatoes are all quintessential examples of produce that are phenomenally delicious when they’re in season and naturally ripened on the plant, but nowhere near as flavorful when eaten out of season or ripened [during] transport.” Wing sources peaches primarily from Of the earth Farm Distillery in rayville, Missouri, as well as Fruitful Hills cSa and crum’s Heirlooms. “there’s a beauty to eating seasonally and locally, in that the foods you eat are the best-tasting, most nutritious foods available at that point in time,” Wing says. 1706 Baltimore Ave., Kansas City, Missouri, thesundry.com

22

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


on

ne

n eo o

q&A

drake tillman & hansel herschend chefs, canvas

Written by ettie berneking

SPRInGFIeLD, Mo. Don’t have a kitchen? no big deal.

PHOtOgrAPHy by brAnDOn SiMMOneAu FOr MAunA nADA

Missing a stove? they’ve got it covered. When it comes to cooking on the fly, Drake tillman (pictured top left) and Hansel Herschend (pictured bottom left) make it look easy. they've been hosting pop-up dinners for the past six months around Springfield, Missouri, called Canvas. their first dinner, a 10-course tasting menu, used little more than a toaster oven and induction burner. each month the menu changes, as does the location (and access to kitchen equipment) and number of courses, but the hyper-focus on seasonal and local ingredients stays the same. tillman and Herschend recently established a residency at the Artisan’s Oven, a bread bakery located in Springfield; from July 1 through September, every Friday and Saturday, they’ll host dinners inside the space. As chefs, what’s the appeal of pop-up dinners? it’s a chance to do what you really want. you don’t have to stick to your restaurant’s menu or theme. –Hansel Herschend i just wanted to cook my food. i actually didn’t think it would work or that people would buy tickets. –Drake Tillman How did that first dinner go? great! We had no idea how things would go, but it was kind of comfortable. –D.T. We had no kitchen at all, so we used a tiny toaster oven, an immersion circulator and an induction burner. that was 10 courses over a solid three hours. –H.H. How do you prepare for the dinners? We start planning the menu and location a month out. two days before, i start prepping the food at Metropolitan Farmer; they let us use their kitchen. i go down there around 1am., and i’ll be there until 7am. –D.T. How is Canvas different from other pop ups? People want an experience. they can go eat anywhere because they’re hungry, but we want to make it an event. –H.H. i like that interaction, and i don’t want to make something people can find somewhere else. For instance, at one of our dinners, we had pots with carrots in them next to tables. the "soil" was dehydrated mushrooms and pumpernickel; the carrots were cooked and we used a wire to hold up the greens. For the second course, we pulled the carrots out and used them. i love stuff like that. –D.T. How do you come up with menu items like a dehydrated pea garnish? i don’t like wasting stuff, and there’s not really a reason we throw stuff away; we try to reserve as much as we can. the dehydrated peas ended up as a garnish with a foamed pea purée, fresh cucumber and grilled radish for extra texture and flavor. –D.T. Hansel, do you ever worry about a component of a dish like that? Sometimes i have my doubts that something will work. but the dishes evolve and are often better than what we first planned. –H.H. What led to the residency at The Artisan’s Oven? it gets really expensive to move around, but it’s super fun, and it gives each dinner its own atmosphere. but, we don’t want to always be a pop up; we want a really small space, like a 12-seat restaurant, so we can continue that connection between the guests and the kitchen. –D.T.

(314) 875-9998 | Byrdandbarrel.com #eatchickenstayfly

Stay tuned!

Springfield, Missouri, canvasmissouri.com Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

23


Regional RestauRant guide

24

3rd Chute Bar & Grill 220 W. Main St. Grafton, IL 618.786.8888

Blood & Sand 1500 St. Charles St. St. Louis, MO 314.241.7263 bloodandsandstl.com

Cleveland-Heath 106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com

Fox & Hounds Tavern 6300 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.647.7300 cheshirestl.com

4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com

The Blue Owl 6116 Second St. Kimmswick, MO 636.464.3128 theblueowl.com

Cork & Barrel Chop House and Spirits 7337 Mexico Road St. Peters, MO 636.387.7030 corkandbarrel.com

Fratelli’s Ristorante 2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com

21st Street Brewers Bar 2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.6969 21stbrew.com

Boundary 7036 Clayton Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.932.7818 boundary-stl.com

The Corner Restaurant 4059 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.931.4401 thecornerkc.com

Gerard’s Restaurant 1153 Colonnade Center Des Peres, MO 314.821.7977 stlgerards.net

Aerie’s Resort & Winery 800 Timber Ridge Drive Grafton, IL 618.786.7477 aeriesview.com

Bur Oak Brewing Co. 8250 Trade Center Drive Columbia, MO buroakbeer.com

Delta Queen Port of Call 6035 Second St. Kimmswick, MO 636.223.7170 dqportofcall.com

Great Rivers Tap & Grill 3559-B College Ave. Alton, IL 618.462.1220 greatriverstapandgrill.com

Aya Sofia 6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com

Byrd & Barrel 3422 S. Jefferson Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.875.9998 byrdandbarrel.com

Duke’s 2001 Menard St. St. Louis, MO 314.833.6686 dukesinsoulard.com

The Greek Kitchen 15939 Manchester Road Ellisville, MO 636.686.7200 thegreekkitchen.net

Basso 7036 Clayton Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.932.7820 basso-stl.com

Capitalist Pig 2727 S. 12th St. St. Louis, MO 314.772.1180 capitalistpigbbq.com

Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard 10035 Edg-Clif Drive Potosi, MO 573.438.4741 edg-clif.com

The Grille at the Mansion 1680 Mansion Way O’Fallon, IL 618.624.0629 mansionsteakhouse.com

Beast Craft BBQ Co. 20 S. Belt W Belleville, IL 618.257.9000 beastcraftbbq.com

Castelli’s Restaurant at 255 3400 Fosterburg Road Alton, IL 618.462.4620 castellis255.com

Eleven Eleven Mississippi 1111 Mississippi Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.9999 1111-m.com

Helen Fitzgerald’s 3650 S. Lindbergh Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.984.0026 helenfitzgeralds.com

Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas 325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com

Charleville Brewing Co. & Tavern 2101 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.4677 charlevillevineyard.com

Farmers Gastropub 2620 S. Glenstone Ave. Springfield, MO 417.864.6994 farmersgastropub.com

Herbie’s 8100 Maryland Ave. Clayton, MO 314.769.9595 herbies.com

Bissell Mansion Restaurant & Dinner Theatre 4426 Randall Place St. Louis, MO 314.533.9830 bissellmansiontheatre.com

Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com

Favazza’s on The Hill 5201 Southwest Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.772.4454 favazzas.com

Hidden Lake Winery 10580 Wellen Road Aviston, IL 618.228.9111 hiddenlakewinery.com

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


Jackson Street BrewCo 106 N. Jackson St. Perryville, MO jstreetbrewco.com

Molly Darcys 26 N. Meramec Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.863.8400 mollydarcyspub.com

Southtown Pub 3707 S. Kingshighway Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.832.9009 southtownpub.net

J.Fires’ Market Bistro 725 N. Market St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.7233 jfires.com

Mount Pleasant Estates 5634 High St. Augusta, MO 636.482.9463 mountpleasant.com

Square One Brewery and Distillery 1727 Park Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.231.2537 squareonebrewery.com

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. multiple locations kaldiscoffee.com

The Muddled Pig Gastropub 2733 Sutton Blvd. Maplewood, MO 314.781.4607 themuddledpig.com

Stone Hill Winery 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com

We encourage you to visit any of these fine establishments as proud supporters of Feast Magazine. From fine dining to fast casual to local wineries, there is an array of experiences to choose from, so support and eat local!

BY REGION: St. Louis St. Charles County

Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria 9568 Manchester Road Rock Hill, MO 314.942.6555 katiespizzaandpasta.com

One 19 North Tapas and Wine Bar 119 N. Kirkwood Road Kirkwood, MO 314.821.4119 one19north.com

Syberg’s multiple locations sybergs.com

King & I 3157 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777 kingandistl.com

Porter’s Steakhouse 1000 Eastport Plaza Drive Collinsville, IL 618.345.2400 porterscollinsville.com

Three Sixty 1 S. Broadway St. Louis, MO 314.241.8439 360-stl.com

Kansas City Columbia, Missouri Mid-Missouri and Southern Missouri Southern Illinois Winery and Vineyard

Klondike Café at Montelle Vineyard 201 Montelle Drive at MO Highway 94 Augusta, MO 636.228.4464 montelle.com

PW Pizza 2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.7799 pwpizza.com

The Loading Dock 401 E. Front St. Grafton, IL 618.786.3494 graftonloadingdock.com

The Rack House Kitchen Wine Whiskey 5065 State Highway N Cottleville, MO 636.244.0574 therackhousekww.com

Trattoria Giuseppe 5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com

Mai Lee 8396 Musick Memorial Drive Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com

Ramon’s El Dorado 1711 St. Louis Road Collinsville, IL 618.344.6435 ramonseldorado.net

Twisted Tree Steakhouse 10701 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.394.3366 twistedtreesteakhouse.com

Mary Jane Burgers & Brew 102 N. Jackson St. Perryville, MO 573.547.6279 maryjaneburgers.com

The Schlafly Tap Room and Schlafly Bottleworks 2100 Locust St. 7260 Southwest Ave. St. Louis, MO | Maplewood, MO 314.241.2337 schlafly.com

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3229 Washington Ave. 4465 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.222.0143 urbanchestnut.com

Tin Mill Brewing Co. 114 Gutenberg St. Hermann, MO 573.486.2275 tinmillbrewery.com

Brewery

Visit

Feastmagazine.com to view the regional restaurant guide and read more about some of the places listed here.

Stay up to date with the latest restaurant news by connecting with Feast: feastmag

@feastmag

@feastmag Missouri Beer Co. 22 W. Industrial Drive O’Fallon, MO 636.294.6672 mobeerco.com

The Silly Goose 5501 Locust St. Augusta, MO 636.482.4667 sillygoosemo.com

Vin de Set 2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.8989 vindeset.com

feastmag

feastmagazine Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

25


26

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


smoothie operator

Grab a bright and healthy breakfast at Juicy Smoothie in Branson, Missouri, on p. 30. photography by starboard & port creative


shim cocktails WrITTen By nATAlIe GAllAGher

|

PhoToGrAPhy By AAron oTTIS

There will always be a place for boozy Martinis and stiff Manhattans, but many craft-cocktail bars are beginning to enhance menus with low-alcohol options. Shim cocktails – also called session or low-proof, depending on who you talk to – are having a moment as patrons are looking for ways to enjoy several creative libations while still remaining upright.

Flyover COLUMBIA, MO. At Flyover in Columbia, Missouri, guests can enjoy the Theater Spritz, a simple sparkling cocktail. Co-owner and bar manager Daniel Dethrow designed the drink around a vermouth amaro from Cocchi called Dopo Teatro. “It’s a really neat hybrid product,” Dethrow says. “An amaro can sometimes be really bitter, and that bitterness can knock people down. Dopo Teatro has quinine added, which gives it a little lightness. As a spirit, it’s really mellow, with some great botanical elements and a flower aroma.” Dopo Teatro originated in Italy more than a century ago; it was traditionally enjoyed by theatergoers who sipped it chilled at sidewalk cafés before and after shows. At Flyover, the Theater Spritz combines the Dopo Teatro with Pinckney Bend Distillery tonic syrup, club soda, Angostura bitters and lemon zest. It’s the perfect summertime drink – the kind that quenches your thirst and allows you to drink a pitcher’s worth without losing lucidity. “For us, there’s an additional advantage to this drink,” Dethrow says. “It opens the conversation with our guests, so we can start talking about vermouths and amaro and how we use them in different cocktails. It’s a great entry into that set of spirits.”

212 E. Green Meadows Road #9, Columbia, Missouri, flyovercomo.com

28

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


Q39 KANSAS CITY. “The [low-ABV] trend has been coming

for a while,” says cocktail maven Jenn Tosatto, formerly of Q39, The Rieger and Dempsey’s Burger Pub in the Kansas City area. “With the rise of craft-cocktail culture, people have moved out of drinking to get drunk into more drinking for enjoyment and the pleasure of the artistry of the cocktail.” Tosatto created a number of drinks on the current list at barbecue joint Q39, including the O Sherry Mio, which is a play on a Sherry Cobbler. Sherry is a fortified Spanish wine frequently consumed as an aperitif or digestif, but it’s not often the star of the show in a cocktail. In the O Sherry Mio, Tosatto shows it off as the base spirit with a scant half-ounce of rye whiskey “for backbone,” she says. She shakes the spirits with lemon and orange juice, a housemade cinnamon syrup and a handful of pineapple chunks for a sweet, tart and refreshing sipper. Q39 bartender Jacob Brewer considers the O Sherry Mio one of the most universally appealing drinks on the menu. “I really feel like it’s a year-round cocktail for everyone,” he says. “It plays on a lot of different things. In our world – the barbecue world – you don’t really see a lot of drinks with sherry. People are surprised by it, and it’s great to be able to introduce these flavors to people who have never had them before.” 1000 W. 39th St., Kansas City, Missouri, q39kc.com

Planter’s House ST. louIS. Ted Kilgore, co-owner and bar manager

at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square neighborhood, takes shim cocktails a little further by making some modifications to the ubiquitous Dolin Blanc vermouth. “We use three parts Dolin Blanc and add one part Cocchi Americano, which is an Italian wine that has quinine in it,” Kilgore says. “We also add one part Amaro Nonino, which is an Italian amaro, and that lets us layer in some lightly bitter and warm spice notes. Then we microplane grapefruit zest [into the mixture] and let that sit for 48 hours to soak up the citrus profile before straining.” The resulting product is a bit of liquid magic, and it’s highlighted in the Grapefruit Moon, one of the most popular cocktails at Planter’s House. Kilgore mixes his house vermouth with a California aperitivo liqueur called St. George Bruto Americano, which pops with bright citrus and raspberry notes. He then adds fresh lemon juice and a French grapefruit wine, all topped with sparkling rosé. “It’s a complex, light aperitif cocktail, much like a spritz but with a lot more flavor,” Kilgore says. “It’s a great way for someone to start their evening without too much alcohol right off the bat. I think it’s interesting enough where it gets people thinking about ingredients that maybe they weren’t familiar with.” 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. louis, Missouri, plantershousestl.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

29


where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops. Juicy Smoothie Written by ettie berneking | photography by starboard & port creative

branson, mo. trendy smoothie bowls are making waves in branson, Missouri, where newcomer Juicy Smoothie is serving the healthy, instagram-ready breakfast dish. owners and Las vegas transplants tiana and eddie cornell opened branson’s first juice bar last september. Located in the historic downtown district, Juicy smoothie serves three 16-ounce smoothie bowls topped with layers of fruit, crunchy granola, coconut, nuts and more. try the açai bowl with a smoothie base of blueberries, strawberries, banana, almond milk and açai topped with chia seeds, coconut, banana slices and granola, or build your own. the airy shop also makes fresh-pressed juices, healthy shots and nitro cold brew.

204 N. Commercial St., Suite 200, Branson, Missouri, juicysmoothiebranson.com

monarch Written by Jenny vergara | photography by anna petroW

kansas cITy. tyler and Jaime rovenstine’s stylish new coffee shop, Monarch,

certainly lives up to its royal name. it opened in June inside the ambassador building on broadway, serving seven distinct hand-roasted coffees, plus coffee drinks and pastries. but it’s the unique service model that will have you feeling like a king or queen: order at the counter and then grab a seat. the baristas will deliver your coffee right to your table; roaming servers with ipads are ready to add on a second cup or a pastry to your ticket, which you can pay for at your table. a 13-year coffee veteran and certified “Q grader,” tyler zeroed in on the type of service he wanted to offer at Monarch, then he turned to Jaime for interior design. drawing inspiration from modern coffee shops around the world, she used a classic black-and-white palette with gold accents and pops of color to bring the space to life. the first featured coffees were ejo heza washed rwanda and kamwangi kenya aa; look for pastries from various local bakeries, including fruit tarts from baked in kansas city. 3550 Broadway, Kansas City, Missouri, monarchkcmo.com

charleville Brewing co. & tavern story and photography by MabeL suen

sT. LoUIs. in May, Charleville Brewing Co. & Tavern opened in st. Louis’ Lafayette square neighborhood in collaboration with hamilton hospitality, which operates several adjacent restaurants including vin de set and eleven eleven Mississippi. in addition to the wide selection available throughout the year at charleville's flagship 30-barrel brewery in ste. genevieve, Missouri, a seven-barrel on-site brewhouse turns out five to six core year-round beers, including the best-selling hoptimistic ipa with pine and pineapple notes. the bar also features housemade root beer and four of charleville’s signature wines, including the barrel-fermented chardonel, a fruity, dry white aged in Missouri oak. Look for fresh herbs from hamilton hospitality’s neighboring greenhouse in signature cocktails including shandies and sangria.

2101 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, charlevillebeer.com

30

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


on

ne

n eo o

benay shannon

Gerard’s Restaurant

co-owner and distiller, restless spirits distilling co.

q&A

WRITTeN By KAITlyNN MARTIN

|

pHOTOGRApHy By zACH BAuMAN

noRTH KAnSAS CITY, Mo. A mix of Irish heritage and entrepreneurial energy can be found at Michael and Benay Shannon’s Restless Spirits Distilling Co. The husband-andwife team pays homage to Michael’s great-great grandfather, who emigrated from Ireland in 1853, in the intricate design and branding of the distillery’s gin, vodka and Irish whiskey. But unlike Irish tradition, distilling does not run deep in the Shannon bloodline. In fact, the couple decided to combine their varied experience – Michael worked with Fortune 500 companies to develop brands for 30 years, and Benay taught high school science for 11 years – into a shared distilling passion in 2015. Restless Spirits' tasting room opened in North Kansas City, Missouri, in March 2016.

What inspired you both to get into distilling? Ten or 11 years ago we were in Denver, and we were introduced to Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey, when they were a small craft operation. That was the first time we knew that there was such a thing as craft distilling. It was a totally new industry to us. We always thought whiskey was made in Kentucky, just like a lot of people. Mike has always been building brands for other companies, and he thought this would be such an awesome opportunity to be able to build his own. Who manages the distilling? We have the whole outside-ofthe-bottle story – that's kind of Mike’s department. Then my department is what goes in the bottle, because I thought this is such a neat way to be able to creatively use a science background. There’s this great combination of science and craft to creating these products. Tell us about the tasting room. I will paraphrase my husband: He says it’s a Willy Wonka atmosphere. He says when people come in, he wants them to see Willy Wonka. And I think it’s kind of funny when people come in and actually say that. Our goal from the beginning has been two key words: authentic and learning. I want people to be able to experience and learn about the process. So the tours and what they can see through the big glass wall – it’s all about how you make whiskey, what defines whiskey and why we do what we do here. What’s your favorite spirit that you make? Well, they’re kind of like my children, so I hate to pick a favorite. But one of my favorites right now is the Builders Botanical Gin, because I created that specifically for my taste. What are you most excited about moving forward? I’m excited to see how this company grows, because it’s been just the two of us for a very long time. On the business side, it’s cool to see what we're running, and on the other side, it’s about thinking about what new things I can create, introduce and see people enjoy. 109 E. 18th Ave., North Kansas City, Missouri, restlessspiritsdistilling.com

Rich in Culinary Tradition Proudly Serving St. Louis for 23 Years

Made To oRdeR  Steaks  Pasta  Oysters  Fresh Fish Colonnade Center 1153 Colonnade Center | Des Peres 314-821-7977 | stlgerards.net

WildWood SpringS lodge 2017 COnCERT SERiES

Jim Messina

Sept. 23rd

Ambrosia

Sept. 30th

Michael Martin Murphy Oct. 6th 3 Guys and Guitars

(Richie Furay, Pat Liston, and John Batdorf)

Oct. 7th

Rodney Crowell

Oct. 13th

Mission Temple Fireworks Revival

(Ft. Paul Thorn, Bonnie Bishop, and The McCrary Sisters)

Steve Earle POCO Ozark Mountain Daredevils

Oct. 14th Oct. 21st Oct. 27th - Oct. 28th Nov. 3rd - Nov. 4th

Steelville, MO | 573-775-2400 | wildwoodspringslodge.com

NEW AT

One 19 nOrth tapasas and Wine Bar Expertly stocked shelves with more than 1000 wines

Wine Lounge/private event party space

Rebecca Kibler Our Executive Chef after 6 years as Sous Chef has taken over at One 19 North preparing all fresh daily specials. Make your reservations today to enjoy the fresh entrees, the exquisite wine and light music that create an ideal atmosphere for a group of friends or the perfect date.

Kansas City’s Downtown Destination for entertaining wine | spirits Beer | Cheese | gifts 1701 Baltimore Ave. Kansas City, MO 64108 info@cellarratwine.com 816-221-9463

119 North Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, MO 63122

314-821-4119

www.one19north.com Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

31


Spirited road SToRy and RECIpE by MaTT SEITER phoToGRaphy by JonaThan GayMan

Spirited road You can find Fabbri amarena cherry syrup, passion fruit ice cream and orange-blossom water at specialty grocery stores and artisan food shops. SERVES | 1 |

1½ oz Four Roses Yellow Label bourbon 1 oz Calvados 1 tsp Fabbri amarena cherry syrup 3 scoops passion fruit ice cream ¼ oz orange blossom water 1 orange slice (for garnish) 1 Fabbri amarena cherry (for garnish)

| preparation | In a blender, combine bourbon, Calvados, cherry syrup and ice cream and blend on high. Transfer to a chilled glass and pour orange blossom water over top. Garnish with orange slice and cherry. Serve.

the avenue SERVES | 1 |

1 oz bourbon 1 oz Calvados 1 oz passion fruit juice dash grenadine dash orange blossom water

| preparation | In a cocktail shaker with ice, add all ingredients and shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Serve.

32

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

There are a handful of cocktail ingredients I hold dear to my heart. The Avenue, which first appears in 1937’s Café Royal Bar Book, is a mix of three of them: bourbon, Calvados and passion fruit. What better way to celebrate summer than a frosty, Avenue-inspired milkshake? Most of us don't have a

specific appliance for milkshakes at home, so use a blender. When you do this, though, adding ¼ cup cracked ice works wonders. Just take a few cubes and place them in a clean dish cloth. Beat the cubes with a muddler, hammer or any other blunt object to crack them. Remember to put the ice in the blender last, as the booze will melt it quickly, making your shake watery.

Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG)’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktail Bars, and a bar and restaurant consultant.


WINE

CroWn Valley Winery’s 2015 Viognier ProvenAnce: ste. Genevieve, Missouri PAIrIngs: Grilled salmon • Fresh fruit • Spinach and Feta salad

Viognier wine grapes are a rare find in Missouri, but Crown Valley Winery has been experimenting with them since 2007. there are currently 10 acres growing at the ste. Genevieve, Missouri, vineyard; Crown Valley has made several different styles of wine from the juice. the 2015 vintage is a semi-sweet white wine that was fermented at cooler temperatures and aged in stainless steel to bring out fruit-forward flavors and aromas. Viognier is historically grown in the northern Rhone Valley of France, but can now be found in many regions of the world. the wine has rich, floral aromas and flavors of pineapple, white peach and green apple. you can find it at the winery’s tasting room or at select retailers across Missouri. crownvalleywinery.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City.

destihl BreWery’s BlueBerry gose written by ryan niCkelson

sTyle: leipzig-style gose with blueberries (5.2% abV) PAIrIngs: Summer salads • Ceviche • Plum sorbet

a gose (pronounced GOES-uh) is perfect for warm summer days. the sour ale is known for its bright tart, citrusy and limelike qualities. Destihl Brewery’s blueberry Gose, part of the bloomington, illinois-based brewery’s wild sour series, gets a slightly spicy note from the addition of coriander, and a crisp mineral mouthfeel from sea salt. the star of the show, however, are the fresh blueberries, which add a layer of complexity. this canned beer is perfect for float trips. destihlbrewery.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, a craft beer shop located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.

SPIRIT

mary guccione owner, cellar + plate

written by Hilary HeDGes

BEER

n eo o

ne

on

on The shelf : july PIcks

Missouri ridge distillery’s Corn Whiskey written by Jenn tosatto

ProvenAnce: branson, Missouri (50% abV) Try IT: in a Gold rush cocktail with lemon juice and honey syrup

the ozark region has a long history of whiskey production, and Missouri Ridge Distillery continues the tradition with its corn whiskey. rich and sweet, the corn flavor really comes through in the final product thanks to a 100-percent corn mash bill. the distillery is located in branson, Missouri, sitting atop limestone, and the water drawn for production is said to make all of the difference. that difference is garnering a lot of attention: Missouri ridge Distillery’s whiskeys snagged five medals at the Denver international spirits Competition, including a silver for the corn whiskey. missouriridgedistillery.com You can find Jenn running the bar at Mission Taco Joint's upcoming Kansas City location. She also loves donating her skills to many charity events around the city, as well as working private events.

q&A

written by ettie bernekinG

|

PhotoGRaPhy by bRad zweeRink

sPrIngfIelD, Mo. springfield, Missouri’s newest wine bar, Cellar + Plate, has already rooted itself in the city’s growing bar and restaurant scene. along with some unusual bottles offered on its wine list, Cellar + Plate serves a smattering of small plates, meat and cheese boards, and housemade meatballs. the atmosphere is casual with just enough moody ambiance to help you sink deeper into the white leather sofas and uncork another bottle. owner Mary Guccione is a wine enthusiast whose passion for vino led her to become a first-level sommelier before opening the wine bar.

When did you really get interested in wine? it was three years ago when i got heavily interested. My husband and i were running sorellas table, an italian pop-up restaurant, twice a month in an event venue. Did you know you wanted to open a wine bar when you started studying to become a certified sommelier? no. the egg came before the chicken. i was just super interested in [wine]. when i went to take the exam, i was the only person in the room not in the industry out of 150 people. it was 150 million times more intense than i thought it would be. What interests you about wine? the history of wine is fascinating, and if you’re a history buff at all, this parlays right into it. it’s just amazing. What’s your favorite type of wine? it depends on my mood and the season. i’m into rosés right now, and i love to end the evening with a sherry or any digestif, but i also love a bloody Mary and a good dark beer. What's your goal with Cellar + Plate? there are two components to this that are important to me: i want people to come in and learn about the basics of wine, and i want to offer wines you can’t get in many places. For instance, i have a Pinot Grigio from Romania. What draws customers to a wine bar? no one at a wine bar is in a hurry. we’ve learned that when you serve people several courses of really wonderful food, surround them with people they enjoy and open a few bottles of wine, they settle in, and at some point you have to remind them to go home! How did you develop the menu? we have a reputation with italian food, but we have a tiny kitchen: there’s one convection oven, two induction plates and a sous vide. we had to be creative with our menu – we even have paella and a dessert cooked with the sous vide: crème brûlée. Tell us about your monthly drag brunch. Cellar + Plate is all about creating a space where people can discover something new. in this instance, i want people to come discover the talented queens in springfield. it’s really live theater. you can appreciate the art and the talent that goes into it. i would challenge anyone who hasn’t been to a drag show to come out and not have a good time. 2916 S. Lone Pine Ave., Springfield, Missouri, cellarandplate.com Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

33


34

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


block party

Impress guests at your next cookout with this Himalayan salt block on p. 36. photography provided by the companion group


PoPutoPia Gourmet PoPcorn & treatery story and photography by mabel suen

ALTON, IL. a new shop debuted in alton, illinois, in march, offering a selection of gourmet sweets. Poputopia Gourmet Popcorn & Treatery features an assortment of flavored popcorn, bulk candy, chocolates and more in a retro space with splatter-painted floors and pastel walls adorned in starburst decals. the concept comes from former event planner rebecca pattan, who previously owned a similar store in the area called the hive. with poputopia, pattan hopes to bring back her brand of tasty treats to the local community and beyond. popcorn is popped fresh daily for the store’s wide selection of 150 different flavors, 35 to 40 of which are available on any given day.

poputopia’s method involves cooking mushroom-shaped popcorn with organic white coconut oil, which helps the caramelization process used in many of her proprietary recipes. pattan’s take on chicago-style popcorn, for instance, is the riverbend blend, which features old bakery beer co. porter-infused caramel popcorn combined with cheddar cheese popcorn. on the savory side, choose from options such as Jamaican jerk, curry, ranch, cheddar and chipotlelime. one of pattan’s favorites is a rosemary and white truffle popcorn made with fresh rosemary. guests can customize popcorn to their taste, with particular flavors, mixes and colors available for special occasions. poputopia also offers south bend chocolate co. goods and around 50 flavors of taffy town taffy, including saltwater-vanilla and mango-chipotle. Fudge, bottled sodas and hammond’s chocolate bars are available, as well. 231 E. Delmar Road, Alton, Illinois, facebook.com/poputopiapopcorn

charcoal companion himalayan salt plate

written by bethany christo

himalayan salt is exalted the world over for its nutritional benefits and ability to impart subtle flavor. because there’s little moisture present in himalayan salt naturally, the plate can be heated on the grill or chilled in the freezer for a striking serving platter or cooking surface, hot or cold. For more information or to purchase the Himalayan salt plate, visit companion-group.com. photo courtesy the companion group

rome industries s’mores maker written by nancy stiles

if you’re camping this summer, s’mores are a must-have around the fire. this roasting basket from rome industries has spots for three assembled s’mores, allowing you to toast the marshmallow and melt the chocolate at the same time. it’s also the perfect size for toasting smaller sandwiches over the fire. For more information or to purchase the s’mores maker, visit romeindustries.com photo courtesy rome industries

36

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


A Taste of Greece Culinary Event

Join us this summer in the Vineyard or at our weekly summer events! Visit www.edg-clif.com for details

At The Greek Kitchen

Come enjoy fresh authentic Greek cuisine Food Trucks • Weddings • Wine Tastings • Vineyard Tours • Craft Beers Potosi, MO • www.edg-clif.com

 A sampling variety from the menu  Greek salad

 pita bread  Dessert

$15.95 per person

GrEEk musiC | July 22 | 11Am-4pm Get away without going far away and enjoy a taste of Cape – More than 130 restaurants from Irish and Indian to Pan-Asian and Cajun, including unique dining options and locally-roasted coffee you won’t find elsewhere.

/EAT C A P E G I R A R D E A U » Just 90 miles south of St. Louis

The Greek Kitchen | 15939 Manchester road | ellisville, Mo 636-686-7200 | www.thegreekkitchen.net

THINK YOU KNOW FROZEN BURGERS? THINK AGAIN. INTRODUCING...

ANGUS CHUCK STEAK BURGER

ANGUS SIRLOIN STEAK BURGER

ANGUS BEEF BRISKET STEAK BURGER with Smoked Gouda Cheese

If you' re a burger lover, you no longer have to compromise quality for convenience when buying a frozen burger. Not with CHOP HOUSE Steak Burgers. Our burgers boast proprietary, butcher-style grinds so they' re bursting with flavor. Frozen fresh with a unique handmade look, CHOP HOUSE is sure to become the burger lover' s go-to-option. For great recipe ideas, visit chophousesteakburger.com. Enjoy! Available at your local Schnucks and Dierbergs retailers

Brought to you by the Holten family of brands, which, for generations, has provided you with exceptional quality you can not only taste, but trust.

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

37


The PoPTail Manual

n EO O

nE

On

WRITTEN By kAITLyNN MARTIN

stl

q&A

andrew tessmer owner, beersauce shop WRITTEN By HuONG TRuONG

|

PHOTOGRAPHy By JACkLyN MEyER

ST. PETERS, MO. Andrew “The Beer Guy” Tessmer

(pictured below right) first met Rick “The Sauce Guy” Duree (pictured below left) while doing marking work for Duree’s tech startup. The duo eventually left the tech world and opened BeerSauce Shop in June in St. Peters, Missouri, which offers about 500 craft beers, 30 small-batch whiskeys and 250 hot sauces, barbecue sauces and rubs. Along with running the shop on a taste-before-you-buy philosophy, the duo collaborate with other local businesses to host community classes on barbecue, beer and whiskey at the shop. What inspired BeerSauce Shop? I had the idea to do a bottle shop featuring only craft beers; Rick was a big sauce guy at the time. Really, it’s just a combination of our passions. He loves sauce, I love beer. We said, “Hey, barbecue and beer makes a whole lot of sense, especially here in St. Louis.” Fast forward eight months and we’re here. How does the “taste-before-you-buy” philosophy work at the shop? We have eight beers on draft: Folks can belly up to the bar and order tasters, full pints or a flight of any four beers. Every time you come in, we’ll have something new on draft to get a taste of. In addition, you can grab any bottle off the shelves. On the sauce side, we worked with a variety of manufacturers to come up with some recipes of our own and got those all house branded. Around 50 of them at any one 38

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

time will be available for tasting at the bar. What do you look for in a beer or sauce? No macros. Take beers for example: First, and foremost, we look at the flavor and quality. Then, the company must be fiercely independent, brewing in small batches and honoring its tradition of beer. It must look at the base brew style to figure out how to make it new, unique and fun. As far as the sauces go, I couldn’t tell you how many sauces we tasted through until we got to 250. Judging from the amount of Tums I had in my stomach, I would estimate we tasted around 600 bottles of sauce. Tell us about the classes you offer. For barbecue school, we work with the guys at Sugarfire Smoke House at the location in St. Charles, Missouri, to get one of their pitmasters in. We also have whiskey school, which Adam Stumpf from Stumpy’s Spirits in Columbia, Illinois, will be coming out for. Wood Hat Spirits in New Florence, Missouri, is going to come out to do a wood tasting, [to] show how different oaks add different flavors. For the beer school, we have different local breweries come out to tell the story of their brand. One of the things we found fascinating as beer aficionados is how these people get passionate, turn it into a business, their philosophy on brewing and why they’re doing what they’re doing. 318 Mid Rivers Mall Dr., Suites C and D, St. Peters, Missouri, beersauceshop.com

Just in time for summer, The Poptail Manual features more than 90 frozen-cocktail recipes perfect for a summer picnic, cookout or at-home happy hour. Before diving into the boozy treats, author kathy kordalis details suggested equipment that’s helpful to have on hand during the poptail-making process, including a citrus squeezer and ice-pop molds. With illustrations of the poptails and the ingredients to make them, each recipe is a colorful adventure. Ice pops range from fresh and fruity (limoncello-basil), refreshing and cool (grapefruit-cucumber) to bubbly (raspberry-açai spritzer) and luxurious and creamy (banana-coffee), plus twists on classic cocktails like the orange-peach Negroni. The Poptail Manual is sure to make you feel like a kid again, frozen treat in hand – except with a decidedly adult shot of your favorite spirit inside. By Kathy Kordalis chroniclebooks.com


Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

39


Libations & Co. written by Jenny VerGara

|

PHOtOGraPHy by anGela bOnD

LEE’S SUMMIT, MO. when Seth and andrea allen opened their new

barware store, Libations & Co., in downtown lee’s Summit, Missouri, in april, they knew they were opening the only store of its kind in the Kansas City area. Cocktail enthusiasts can now shop a quality selection of barware, glassware and bitters to make delicious drinks at home. the space, with its original pressed-tin ceilings, exposed brick walls and overstuffed leather chairs, makes you feel like settling in for a drink. antique tables are topped with cocktail glassware and barware including shakers, stirrers, strainers and jiggers. you’ll find Kansas City Canning Co. shrubs, boozy botanicals mixers and bitters, and bottles of booze from local distilleries such as J. rieger & Co., Union Horse Distilling Co., S.D. Strong Distilling, restless Spirits Distilling Co. and tom’s town Distilling Co. Sample spirits at the tasting bar before you decide to make your purchase, or sign up to attend one of the mixology classes taught by local bartenders. 23 SE Third St., Lee’s Summit, Missouri, givedrink.com

artisan products café cusco’s loco roco hot sauce written by Kaitlynn Martin

SPRINGFIELD, MO. Four years ago, the night before Joseph Gidman and his parents were about to open Café Cusco in Springfield, Missouri, he went through the pantry in hopes of creating the perfect Peruvian-style hot sauce. He had tried out hundreds of recipes and still had no luck. On opening day, he emerged with a new batch, and upon the first taste, his mother said, “Oh, i would buy that!” During the restaurant’s first few months, Gidman noticed that bottles of the hot sauce were disappearing from dining-room tables, so he decided to sell it to customers at the restaurant. the loco roco hot sauce is made with boiled raisins, serrano peppers, aji rocoto peppers, garlic, cilantro, Key lime juice, brown sugar and Himalayan sea salt. “i picked two peppers because they both have different levels of spiciness, and i really wanted the sauce to feel rounded,” Gidman says. recently, ecently, demand for the hot sauce has gotten so high that Gidman started to officially bottle and sell the sauce. loco roco oco is available in Springfield at Café Cusco, Chabom teas + Spices and on tables at buckingham’s bbQ. Gidman hopes to get the sauce in local stores and open a small bottling facility.

spicewine ironworks blue collar b-b-q sauce written by HUOnG trUOnG

COLUMBIA, MO. Spicewine Ironworks, which makes

custom smokers in Columbia, Missouri, is also home to award-winning blue Collar b-b-Q sauce. in 2009 and 2017, its Kansas City-style sauce won first place in the tomato: Mild category at the prestigious american royal world Series of barbecue. this year, it beat out 606 entries from 43 states and 13 countries. Co-owner Jay Curry says he wanted the sweet, molasses-heavy sauce to represent Missouri’s hardworking character in its bold flavor. blue Collar b-b-Q is sweet, a little smoky and serves as an all-purpose barbecue sauce. you can buy it online or in grocery stores in Columbia and across Missouri. spicewineironworks.com PHOtO COUrteSy SPiCewine irOnwOrKS

cafecusco.com PHOtO by JaCKlyn Meyer

40

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


book your private dining experience Groups of 6-40+

NOW acceptINg ReSeRvatIONS tHROugH deceMbeR

TasTe & see FeasT TV TasTe & see: experimenTal KiTchen OpeN tueSday

LuNcH 11aM-3pM

tHROugH SIp & SavOR 3 pM-6pM

ReSeRvatIONS RecOMMeNded

SatuRday dINNeR: 4:30pM-10pM 314.394.3366 10701 Watson Rd. | Saint Louis, MO

when:

Fri., July 21, 7pm

where:

Public Media Commons, 3653 Olive St., St. Louis

tickets:

$15

twistedtreesteakhouse.com

Next door to Holiday Inn St. Louis SW

Have BBQ. Will Travel. CATERING SERVICES FOR ANY OCCASION Corporate Lunches Corporate Events Seminars Weddings Birthdays Graduations

Visit feastmagazine.com for more information

Discover what goes into opening a successful restaurant. Explore innovative, ingredient-driven cuisine that is setting the stage for what’s next on everyone’s plate.  Live music  Segments from Feast TV  Interviews with local chefs

 Live demos  Food and drink samples

Taste & See with the Nine Network and Feast TV lets you go inside the show. Taste the food and meet the people responsible for creating the dishes and drinks. The unique format (and unique outdoor setting) intersperses segments from the show with live demonstrations and interviews, which are shown on the Public Media Common’s two-story screens.

CATERING@BEASTCRAFTBBQ.COM

20 SOUTH BELT WEST • BELLEVILLE, IL 618.257.9000 WWW.BEASTCRAFTBBQ.COM Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

41


JOIN US FOR SUNDAY BRUNCH OR DINNER! Enjoy Our Award Winning Breakfast Menu With Our Delicious Boozy Breakfast Cocktails & Chef Mehmet© s Whole Roasted Lamb. Lunch: Tues-Fri :: Dinner: Tues-Sun :: Sunday Brunch Wine Flights: Tues-Wed :: Happy Hour: Tues-Fri Available for Private Parties and Catering

Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine. Known for our Meze (Small Plates), Lamb Dishes, Fresh Fish and Excellent Wine Selection.

6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com

COME TREAT YOURSELF WITH THE MOST AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD AT THE FIRST THAI RESTAURANT IN ST LOUIS. THE BEST FOR OVER 30 YEARS!

3155 South Grand | St. Louis, MO. 63118 | 314.771.1777 | www.kingandistl.com

Don’t miss out on our Inspiring Cooking Classes For July - Mediterranean Tapas & The Power of Pesto Help us to welcome our newest Extra Virgin Olive Oils...Including three big winners at the New York International Olive Oil Competition. Including oils from Italy, Spain, Sicily, Greece and California Shop with us for your gourmet salt, pasta and seasoning needs. Check Website for Class Availability • diolivas.com West County 118 West County Center St. Louis, MO 63131 (P) 314.909.1171

42

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

St. Charles 617 S Main St St Charles, MO 63301 (P) 636.724.8282

Central West End 115 N. Euclid between West Pine and Lindell (P) 314.367.OILS (6457)


Naturally Raised Products From the Farm and Much More 1-84-GOT BACON www.FarmToYouMarket.com

5025 Old Hwy 100, Washington, Mo Join our VIP program for specials Text FARM to 57711

Phantom of the Grand © Ole Opry

Interactive Comedy Murder Mystery Amid the fried chicken, line dancing and dinner theater, Tammy Whino, will be performing her one woman show, “Stand by your Man.” But before she can give the performance of a lifetime, the Queen of the Grand ` Ole Opry, ends up DEAD! Who is the murderer? Billy Ray Serious, Naomi Dudd or could it be Nelson Willy? So ya all come down and help Kenny Rogeers and Dolly Pardon along with all your favorite country western singers, apprehend Tammy’s Killer. Call for reservations today at 314-533-9830 Bring this ad in for $10 off per person Valid through July 2017. Not valid for groups

Bissell Mansion Dinner Theatre

4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com

TRY US FOR YOUR SPECIAL OCCASION! Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! ªT o Eat Well is to Live Wellº Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere. Birthday, Graduation, Retirement, Corporate Parties! Let Us Cater Your Special Occasion Try Our Party Pans For A Delicious Meal For Any Size Group Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials Now selling our Signature Salad Dressing and Pasta Sauce. Bottled with love by our family for your family. Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday

5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com

Furniture Repaired, Furniture Refinished 5 Year Workmanship Guarantee Quality Craftsmanship • Refinishing • Reupholstery Antique Restoration Repair • Custom Made Draperies Custom Made Furniture • New Furniture • Antiques Monday - Friday 8am - 4:30pm Appointments & Service Available 24 Hrs. A Day, 7 Days A Week

Since 1893

Just east of 3400 S. Kingshighway We accept Discover, Visa, Mastercard and American Express

4821 Fairview Ave., St. Louis • 314.832.1555 • www.zollingerfurniture.com Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

43


Our steakhouse mixed with Italian flair, Bugatti’s proudly serves the finest steaks, seafood and Italian cuisine.

Reservations are always encouraged. To make reservations, call 636.940.4471 or book online at stcharles.ameristar.com

ONE AMERISTAR BOULEVARD ST. CHARLES, MISSOURI 63301 636.949.7777 | AMERISTAR.COM ©2017 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

44

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


passy our plate

Make the most of seasonal summer produce with this roasted corn salad with garlic-lime dressing on p. 50. photography by jennifer Silverberg


healthy appetite

Summer SquaSh SkewerS story, recipe AND photogrAphy by sherrie cAstellANo

Summer SquaSh SkewerS with BaSil Dipping Sauce The vegetables listed below are great for summery skewers, but I encourage you to experiment with your own seasonal favorites. Fresh eggplant, tomatillos, stone fruits and melon all make tasty additions or substitutions to the skewers. yielDs | 10 skewers |

Basil Dipping sauce 1 cup roughly chopped fresh basil leaves 1 Tbsp roughly chopped fresh oregano leaves ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp olive oil 2 Tbsp white wine vinegar 1 Tbsp lemon juice ½ tsp honey ¼ tsp sea salt ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper summer squash skewers 1 package wooden skewers, soaked in water per package instructions 1 cup cherry tomatoes 1 red onion, large dice 1 red bell pepper, large dice 1 green pepper, large dice 1 zucchini, sliced into medallions 1 summer squash, sliced into medallions

| preparation – basil dipping sauce | in a blender, combine all ingredients and blend until smooth. set aside.

| preparation – summer squash skewers | heat an outdoor grill or stovetop grill pan to medium-high heat. remove skewers from water. layer each skewer with an equal number of cherry tomatoes and segments of onion, red and green bell pepper, zucchini and summer squash. brush vegetables lightly with basil dipping sauce. grill each skewer for about 5 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. serve with extra basil dipping sauce on the side.

%PG

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 6

With Basil Dipping sauce

My favorite summertime meals are enjoyed al fresco: With a chilled glass of wine or an ice-cold beer in hand, and fresh food sizzling on the grill, life sure feels good. i love shopping at my local farmers’ market on sunny saturday mornings, gathering up whatever seasonal produce and herbs i can get my hands on and then grilling it all for a fresh and summery lunch or dinner.

My style for easy meals – and especially during the hot summer months – always errs toward what i call the “no-recipe recipe.” Aside from throwing some oil, aromatics and acids into a blender for the dipping sauce, the following recipe mostly consists of layering fresh and vibrant vegetables on wooden skewers, quickly grilling them and throwing it all together on a plate.

Sherrie Castellano is a former health coach turned food writer, photographer and pop-up chef based in St. Louis, Missouri. A collection of Sherrie’s recipes, stories and images can be found on her Saveur Blog Award-nominated website, With Food + Love. Sherrie is currently the marketing director for Midwest-based Big Heart Tea Co.


FREE AY!

HOME DECOR OUTLETS PRESENTS

E T HOVER AKE M Y $0 E T THIN DO OD G WN AY

W

LAYA

$4,000,000 OF INVENTORY MUST GO! BUY ONE

RECLINING SECTIONAL

GET ONE

FREE RECLINERS

FROM

COMPLETE QUEEN BED

POWER AVAILABLE

Summer Concert Series on the patio, Music from 3pm – 7pm on Saturdays

6035 Second Street Kimmswick, MO 63053 636-223-7170 www.dqportofcall.com

Prime Rib Specials on Friday and Saturday night.

$199

4 PC BEDROOM

CHOICE OF COLOR

5PC DINING SET

ONLY

$299

BAR HEIGHT

ONLY

$299

INCLUDES: DRESSER, MIRROR HEADBOARD AND NIGHT STAND

3PC TABLE SETS ONLY

ONLY

$99 ONLY

SOFA ONLY

$99

FAMOUS POSTURE SERIES 2PC SET QUEEN PILLOW TOP CHIRO-EXTRA

SLEEP FIRM

$

Available at all locations

20-Yr. Ltd. Warranty

Ea. Pc. TWIN 84 $84 $99 Ea. Pc. FULL

$

Ea. Pc. TWIN 18 $18 $49 Ea. Pc. FULL

$129 Ea. Pc. QUEEN $109 Ea. Pc KING

SLEEP REST

$

199

CHIRO-EXTRA

5-Yr. Ltd. Warranty

CHIRO-PEDIC

10-Yr. Ltd. Warranty

Ea. Pc. TWIN 59 $59 $74 Ea. Pc. FULL

25-Yr. Ltd. Warranty

Ea. Pc. TWIN 99 $99 $129 Ea. Pc. FULL

$

$145 Ea. Pc. QUEEN $126 Ea. Pc. KING

SLEEP ULTRA

$

EBONY PILLOWTOP

15-Yr. Ltd. Warranty

Ea. Pc. TWIN 69 $69 $89 Ea. Pc. FULL

$105 Ea. Pc. QUEEN

$99

ONLY

3PC $499 DINING

$

All you can eat fried chicken on Sundays.

$399

EA . PC.

ONLY TAKE IT HOME $0 DOWN

It’s Not too Early to Book Holiday Parties!

FROM

$199

25-Yr. Ltd. Warranty

Ea. Pc. TWIN 104 $104 $139 Ea. Pc. FULL

$

(sold in sets)

$149 Ea. Pc. QUEEN $162 Ea. Pc. KING

TAKE IT HOME $0 DOWN ST. LOUIS HAZELWOOD 3205 South 8780 PERSHALL RD Kingshighway Blvd. 314-522-8886 314-762-0466 SOUTH COUNTY FAIRVIEW PLAZA HEIGHTS lemay ferry rd 100 COMMERCE LN 3839314-892-8296 618-394-0833 Mon & Fri 10-8 Tues, Wed, Thu 11-7 Sat 10-6 Sun 12-6

A HOME DECOR LIQUIDATORS COMPANY • NO CREDIT CHECK FINANCING • www.hdoutlets.com

Coming Fall 2017 - The Best Sports & Entertainment Experience in St. Louis

THEATER BOXES at

St. Louis Blues hockey and world-class performers move us, taking us to the edge of our seats. Take it all in from the new Theater Boxes at Scottrade Center, a premier entertainment experience unlike anything else in St. Louis. Created to celebrate in true St. Louis-style, the Theater Boxes blend luxury, social fun and easy enjoyment. From the moment guests are welcomed, the all-inclusive progressive menu invites sampling with appetizers, small plates and locally inspired daily tasting plates, plus the specialties of our chef. The perfect libations are mixed at our signature bar – top-shelf pours, craft cocktails, and a sampling of beers and wine complete THE experience standard in the Gateway City. We welcome you to the Theater Boxes. Get more details at http://bit.ly/BluesBox17

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

47


story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

MojaMa-avocado ToasT PoinTs My favorite pairing for mojama? Avocado. Buttery and smooth, it’s a perfect foil for the salty low notes in the tuna. Avocado toasts may seem overdone, but trust me: You’ve never had it like this before. serves | 8 to 10 |

10 slices sourdough bread 3 Tbsp olive oil plus more for drizzling sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 medium avocados, halved, pitted and sliced into ¹⁄₈-inch thick slices 4 oz mojama, sliced or shaved into ¹⁄₁₆-inch thick slices 4 oz queso fresco, crumbled (about ½ cup packed) 2 Tbsp roasted pumpkin seeds, coarsely chopped

you think you know salty cured fish because you know your way around gravlax or lutefisk? allow us to introduce you to the meatiest, most satisfying one of all.

| preparation | preheat oven to 375°f. brush both sides of bread with oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and place directly on a baking sheet. bake for 10 minutes, flipping halfway through; remove when lightly toasted on both sides. cut slices in half diagonally to form toast points. scoop out avocado slices from outer shell. lay 2 slices on each toast point, mash lightly with a fork and sprinkle with a little sea salt. divide mojama slices on top and sprinkle with crumbled queso fresco and chopped pumpkin seeds.

| to serve | drizzle each toast point with a little oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. serve warm or at room temperature.

mystery shopper

meet: MojaMa What Is It? Mojama is an air-dried and salt-cured yellowfin tuna that hails from spain, where drying tuna is a centuries-old tradition still practiced in southern coastal cities. thanks to modern refrigeration, salting and air-drying fish is no longer a necessity, yet it still exists because it’s profoundly delicious. the transformation is evident: bouncy, magenta-hued flesh transforms to deep burgundy-brown leather, with all the firmness of a hard cheese. the flavor deepens, as well: in its mojama state, the light fishiness recedes into something more shadowy, laying low behind salty umami flavor that never overpowers the tuna. What do I do WIth It? Mojama is the prosciutto of the sea: it’s meaty and robust, and overusing it in dishes means you run the risk of ruining things.

Keep it simple; make mojama the star of the dish by pairing it with subtler flavors. grate mojama over eggs in the morning, shave it over toast with fresh tomato slices and olive oil for lunch or slice it thinly and serve it low-key with olives and Marcona almonds for an al fresco cocktail hour this summer. pro tip: anytime you slice or shave mojama, drizzle a bit of olive oil over top to bring out the flavor. first things first: you have to find some mojama to call your own. your best chance at locating it around town is at your local international market or specialty food store. check places that deal in higher-end meats and cheeses. if you strike out, it’s easy to find online at specialty food retailers, especially those focused around spanish and Mediterranean delicacies. look for it sold in a solid chunk and pass on the pre-sliced stuff, as it’s not as versatile.

Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.


ST LOUIS’ ULTIMATE SPORTS BAR Exceptional Food, Craft Beer & Spirits

Hey muffin.

Good mornin’!

SPECIAL THA NKS TO PHOTO ELEG A NCE

Who Said a Sports Bar Can’t Have Amazing Food?

Grilled Shrimp & Crawfish Po’ Boy

B30+ Big HDTVs B3 Great Bars B Free Shuttle to all Home Games B Brunch Every Saturday & Sunday

2001 Menard (Corner of Menard & Allen) In the Heart of Soulard Facebook: fb.me/dukesinsoulard

HANDCR AF TED BY BISSINGER’S

N O W O P E N @ 7A M F O R B R E A K FA S T Duke’s Crab Cakes Benedict

3 2 M A R Y L A N D P L A Z A , S T L 6 3 10 8 HA NDCR AF TEDBYBISSINGERS DOT COM

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

49


quick fix

Roasted CoRn salad With Garlic-lime DressinG

story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG

Roasted CoRn salad With GaRliC-lime dRessinG serves | 6 To 8 |

GARLic-LiME DREssinG ½ cup white balsamic vinegar 2 minced garlic cloves 3 tsp honey zest and juice of 2 limes 1 tsp Dijon mustard ½ cup sour cream ½ tsp sea salt ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper RoAsTED coRn sALAD 6 to 8 ears corn, husks and silks removed and discarded, kernels removed and reserved 2 Tbsp vegetable oil, divided 1 tsp salt, divided, plus more for seasoning ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper, divided, plus more for seasoning 1 lb mini red potatoes, cleaned and quartered 2 poblano chiles, skin and seeds removed, roasted and finely diced 1 finely diced red bell pepper 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved 1 cup scallions, sliced on the bias into ¼-inch pieces ½ bunch cilantro, roughly chopped

| preparation – garlic-lime dressing | in a large bowl, combine all ingredients and whisk together. refrigerate until ready to serve salad.

| preparation – roasted corn salad | preheat oven to 375°f. in a large bowl, add corn kernels, 1 tablespoon oil, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper and toss to coat. spread corn evenly on a rimmed baking sheet and roast in oven for 12 to 15 minutes, tossing after six minutes. When corn is lightly charred, remove from oven and set aside to cool. increase oven temperature to 400°f. in the same large bowl you used to toss corn, add potatoes, remaining oil, salt and pepper, and toss to coat. spread potatoes out evenly on a separate rimmed baking sheet and roast in oven for 10 minutes, or until potatoes are fork-tender. remove potatoes from oven and set aside to cool. When potatoes and corn are cooled to room temperature, toss together in one large bowl. add poblano chiles, red pepper, tomatoes, scallions and cilantro and toss to combine. drizzle in dressing and toss to evenly coat salad. refrigerate until chilled, about 30 minutes. serve chilled.

With sweet corn in season through september, summer is the time to stock up on freshly picked ears still in the husk. the following recipe is quick, fresh and tasty, and can easily be modified. fresh avocado, added right before you toss the salad with the garlic-lime dressing, complements these flavors

quite well, as do a range of chiles and peppers. you can grill the corn and potatoes outside if you’d rather not heat up your oven – and kitchen – as temperatures spike this month. serve the salad as a side dish with grilled steak, chicken or seafood, or enjoy it as a lighter main course.

chef’s tips PLAY iT BY EAR. When buying corn in husks, always choose the

cuTTinG EDGE. ever wonder how to cut corn off the cob without

largest and heaviest ears, as they are usually the freshest. to easily shuck corn, pull husks down and snap off the stem at the base. remove silks by rubbing ears of corn in a circular direction under cold running water, or by using a vegetable brush.

making a mess? all you need is a knife and a bundt pan. simply set one end of the corn cob in the center of the pan, cutting from the top down, and most if not all of the kernels will fall into the pan – instead of scattered across your cutting board.

the menu • Grilled Bistecca alla Fiorentina • Roasted Corn Salad With Garlic-Lime Dressing • Eggplant and Peppers Stir Fry • Stewed Berries With Vanilla Ice Cream

LEARn MoRE. in this class you’ll learn how to perfectly grill a

porterhouse steak at home. you’ll also learn how to make an easy, summery stir fry of eggplant and peppers.

get hands-on: Join Feast magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., July 26, at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.


TV

WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Wednesdays at 7pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 8am and 6:30pm.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 7pm.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Saturdays at noon and Mondays at 12:30pm.

Check your local listings to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

YOU ORDER

WE SHOP

WE DELIVER

powered by

©2017 Schnucks

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

51


story and recipe by christy augustin photography by cheryl Waller

Icebox cake serves | 8 to 10

|

Dark ChoColate Wafer Cookies 1 cup room temperature butter 1 cup granulated sugar ½ cup packed brown sugar ½ tsp kosher salt 1 large egg 1 tsp pure vanilla extract 2 Tbsp whole milk 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour ¾ cup cocoa powder ¼ tsp baking soda WhippeD Cream 3 cups heavy cream ½ cup powdered sugar ½ tsp vanilla extract

| preparation – cookies | in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter, sugars and salt on medium speed until fluffy. add egg, vanilla and milk, mixing well. scrape sides of bowl with a spatula. in a separate bowl, add remaining dry ingredients and whisk to combine. add flour mixture, in 3 additions, to wet mixture, with mixer on low speed; mix just until combined. on parchment paper, divide dough in half and form into 2 logs measuring 2-by-12-inches. Wrap logs tightly in parchment paper and freeze until firm, at least 2 hours. preheat oven to 375°F; line 3 large cookie sheets with parchment paper. slice 1 log into 48 thin slices. transfer cookies to prepared sheets and bake until crispy, approximately 12 minutes. allow to cool before assembling cake.

| preparation – whipped cream | in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine all ingredients and whip until firm peaks form. refrigerate.

| assembly | grease a 5-by-9½-inch loaf pan and line with plastic wrap, leaving a 2 inch overhang on all sides. spoon a thin layer of whipped cream over bottom and sides of pan. line pan with layer of cookies, lengthwise. spread a layer of whipped cream over cookies and repeat until pan is full. (reserve some whipped cream and cookies.) spread a layer of whipped cream over top to seal, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 1 day. remove plastic wrap on top. use the bottom layer of plastic to pull cake from pan; invert onto a platter. spread reserved whipped cream and cookie crumbles on top. slice using a knife warmed under hot water and serve.

sWeet iDeas

Icebox cake When my husband was a little boy, his late grandmother used to make him this same icebox cake on his birthday each year. she was a great cook but not an accomplished baker, and this simple dessert was one of her specialties. the dish has an interesting history, as well: nabisco started making its Famous chocolate Wafers around 1924, when simple ingredients like butter and sugar were often a luxury. a few years later, nabisco started advertising a dessert made by layering the wafers with whipped cream and refrigerating it overnight; by 1930, the recipe appeared on every wafer tin. the dessert is now more popularly known as an icebox cake, as you simply layer the wafer cookies and whipped cream into a large loaf pan and then refrigerate it until the cookies soften and the cream stiffens. and instead of leaning on nabisco, the following recipe includes how to make dark chocolate wafer cookies from scratch. (the cookie recipe yields two logs of dough; you only need one for the cake.) Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. See more at pintsizebakery.com.


Hungry for MORE? Stay on top of the local food scene with our free weekly enewsletter. Subscribe now at

feastmagazine.com, and you’ll get fresh content delivered to your inbox every Wednesday!

HAPPY HOUR EVERYDAY 4-6PM INCLUDING FRI & SAT!

3559-B College Ave, Alton, IL (618) 462-1220 greatriverstapandgrill.com

heat up yOur SuMMer with Bella VinO tapaS

325 S Main St, Saint CharleS, MO 63301

www.bellavinOwinebarStl.COM

5501 Locust Street, Augusta, MO 63332 (636) 482-4667 Call for reservations! Nothing cures spring fever like the fresh flavors of our new seasonal menu. Enjoy southern comfort food at its best. Now accepting dinner reservations! Go to: Sillygoosemo.com to find out more! Like us on Facebook.com/sillygooseaugusta

Your Tiger Game Day

Headquarters! Locally Owned | Columbia, Missouri

Full Service TailGaTe evenTS Quick TailGaTe Pick uPS Dine-In | Carry Out | Catering Gourmet Grocery Store 573-815-9711

www.hosssmarket.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

53


Fishing

is a great way to spend time with family and friends and create memories that last a lifetime. All you need is a pole and a permit. No matter where you live in Missouri, a fishing trip is close to home. Don’t know where to fish? Visit mdc.mo.gov/PlacesToFish. Need a rod and reel? Visit mdc.mo.gov/FishingPoles.

Discover

Nature

bass-and-crappie spring rolls Serves 6 as an appetizer 8 ounces bass and/or crappie (trout works also) Flour for light coating 2 to 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 ounce mung-bean threads (vermicelli noodles) 3 large Bibb or Boston lettuce leaves 12 6-inch-round rice papers 12 large Thai basil leaves ½ cup fresh cilantro, loosely packed ½ cup fresh mint leaves, loosely packed 1 small avocado, cut into 12 slices ¼ cup toasted peanuts, coarsely chopped Coat fish lightly in flour that has been seasoned with salt and pepper. Heat oil in medium-hot skillet and sauté fish until lightly browned on both sides. Set aside to cool. In a bowl, soak bean threads in very hot water to cover. When they are soft, but still have a bit of a bite to them (about 10 minutes), drain well in a colander. Remove ribs from lettuce leaves. Wash and dry thoroughly. Break fish into 6 portions, and assemble rest of ingredients within easy reach. In a shallow baking pan, soak 2 rounds of rice paper in warm water until very pliable, about 45 seconds. Meanwhile dampen two tea towels and spread one out on a flat work surface. Carefully spread both soaked rice papers on the tea towel. Blot papers gently with the other towel. Arrange 1 piece of lettuce leaf on the bottom half of one paper, leaving a 1-inch border along the bottom edge. Cover lettuce with about ¹⁄6 of the fish. On top of that place 2 basil leaves, side by side. Cover those with ¹⁄6 each of bean threads, then cilantro, mint, avocado, and peanuts. Roll up filling tightly in rice paper, folding insides after first roll to completely enclose filling, and continue rolling. Wrap remaining rice paper around spring roll in same manner (double wrapping covers any tears and makes the roll more stable and easier to eat). Wrap roll in a rinsed and squeezed-dry tea towel. Make 5 more rolls with remaining ingredients in the same manner, covering each with towel as they are made. Halve the rolls diagonally and serve with dipping sauce.

dipping sauce ½ cup sugar ½ cup rice vinegar ½ cup water ¹∕³ cup fish sauce 2 garlic cloves, minced ½ teaspoon minced fresh ginger root (peeled) 1½ teaspoons dried red pepper flakes 2 small sprigs cilantro, minced Combine sugar, vinegar, and water in a small saucepan. Heat to dissolve sugar. Once sugar is dissolved, remove pan from heat and add remaining ingredients. Stir well. Once cooled, this sauce will keep in the refrigerator for several days. Serve alongside spring rolls for dipping.

Find more wild recipes in Cooking Wild in Missouri. Order yours at mdcnatureshop.com. 54

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


| 56 |

hot dog days of summer

Relish America’s favorite summertime staple at these 19 hot dog and sausage joints.

| 64 |

instant ocean

KC Shrimp Co. is raising sustainable Pacific white saltwater shrimp in the heart of the country.

| 75|

appetite for adventure

From sit-down restaurants overlooking scenic vistas to small snack bars situated near natural wonders, good eats abound at these 13 Missouri state parks.

| 84 |

summer in rio

For the past 77 years, one St. Louis family has made life a little sweeter at home and across the globe. Photo oF tRoPiCAL MooSe ShAved iCe And Rio SyRuP Co. SyRuP (P. 84) by jonAthAn gAyMAn



Marcus Daily operates The Hotdog Man, a popular hot dog cart in Washington, Missouri. Here, Daily holds his signature, The Pizza Dog, topped with melted Provel, marinara sauce and pepperoni, as well as the Wonder Wienie dog with cream cheese, red onion, and jalapeĂąos. Turn to p. 63 to learn more about Daily and his hot dogs.


Fritz’s smoKeD meAts AnD sUperior sAUsAge Co. Location: 10326 State Line Road, Leawood, Kansas Hours: Open for lunch service Monday through Friday from 8am to 5:30pm and Sunday from 8am to 4:30pm. History: Fritz and Rose Plapp opened

Kansas City’s oldest smokehouse in 1927, originally located in Midtown on 39th Street. Using old-world recipes he first learned in Germany, Fritz built a loyal following of fans who appreciated his master sausage-making skills; he became known for making quality sausages and hot dogs with no fillers. The family moved into a larger location on State Line Road in 1969, and now the fourth generation of Plapps are running the shop. You’ll find 18 different varieties of sausages, plus smoked hams and turkeys, all still made with Fritz's original recipes. For lunch, the shop offers sausages, bratwurst and hot dogs, along with specials and classic deli sandwiches; many items are priced at less than $6. –Jenny Vergara

steve’s hot Dogs MusT Try The breakfasT dog featuring

a Klement all-beef Chicago-style dog on a fluffy white bun topped with bacon, egg and Cheddar cheese. Order tater tots on the side to complete the breakfast theme.

Up Dog

fritzskcmeats.com

Location: 114 N. Liberty St., Independence, Missouri Hours: Open Monday through Thursday from 11am to 9pm, Friday and Saturday from 11am to 10pm and Sunday from 3 to 8pm. History: For almost 20 years,

entrepreneurs Ken and Cindy McClain have been on a mission to slowly restore Independence Square in Independence, Missouri, back to the busy social center that they remember from childhood. Since opening their first restaurant, Ophelia’s, in 1998, the McClains have been opening restaurants and retail stores in the historic square. Their still-growing empire of 16 businesses includes Polly’s Pop, Clinton’s Soda Fountain, Courthouse Exchange, El Pico Mexican, Square Pizza and Café Verona. The McClains opened their specialty hot dog restaurant, Up Dog, in 2011 in a space decorated in 1950s kitsch, complete with red and white stripes, chrome barstools and a few shiny red booths. They offer a Chicago-style dog “dragged through the garden” and a New York-style dog with mustard and sauerkraut, but it’s the more unusual options that set Up Dog apart from the competition. Try the Rio Dog, which comes smothered with caramelized onions, a popular Brazilian cream cheese, sliced jalapeños and a drizzle of mustard. –J.V. eatupdog.com

MusT Try Order the old-school all-beef lunch dog, which has a smoky flavor thanks to char from the grill. Opt for just a dash of mustard on top, which will transport you to the backyard barbecues of your childhood after just one bite.

58

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

Location: 2131 Marconi Ave.; 3457 Magnolia Ave.; inside International Tap House at 16 S. Euclid Ave.; all locations in St. Louis Hours: Varies by location History: Owner Steve Ewing was a

St. Louis celebrity even before he opened the first of his wildly popular hot dog joints in 2011 on The Hill. As frontman of The Urge, Ewing toured all over the country with 311, Korn and Incubus. He now owns three locations of Steve’s Hot Dogs, and has expanded his offerings to include a menu of mac ‘n’ cheese following the success of his Gorilla Mac & Cheese Dog, a Nathan’s hot dog topped with creamy mac ‘n’ cheese, bacon and French’s fried onions. Dogs vary from andouille and Italian sausage to chorizo and even vegetarian. –N.S. steveshotdogsstl.com

MusT Try When ordering, keep it simple: For only $5, get the classic hot dog featuring the cart’s signature Wagyu beef frank topped with ketchup and mustard inside a bun from local favorite Sasha’s Baking Co.

Derr’s ArtisAn sAUsAge /the Wiener WAgon KC Location: 9645 W. 87 St., Overland Park, Kansas Hours: The Wiener Wagon KC is out every Saturday from May through November from 7am to 1pm, and every Wednesday from May through September from 7:30am to 1pm. History: The Wiener Wagon KC made

MusT Try Go all-out with the backyard bbQ dog, a smoked hot dog topped with

tangy baked beans, fresh potato salad, bacon and barbecue sauce. You can also get super-local flavor with the Dogtown Pizza Hot Wing Dog, a collaboration with the local frozen pizza company made with Buffalo chicken, hot wing sauce, Provel and ranch.

its maiden voyage in July 2012 at a family gathering. Since then, the hot-dog cart has branched out to serving its hand-stuffed sausages and hot dogs at school fairs, company picnics and the Overland Park Farmers’ Market. Husband-and-wife team Dave Derr and Jessica Rush have been cooking together since culinary school, more than a decade ago. They started out by making fresh sausages at home for friends and family. Rave reviews led them to launch a full-time sausage company, Derr’s Artisan Sausage, plus a food cart, The Wiener Wagon KC. The couple recently announced plans to open a retail storefront in Overland Park, Kansas, in the fall. Expect playful flavor combinations such as the Breakfast Bacon Sausage topped with creamy gravy and spicy Buffalo chicken sausage. –J.V. wienerwagonkc.com


mIcKey’s 76 DrIve In Location: 10861 W. State Highway 76,

Branson West, Missouri Hours: Open Monday through Saturday from 11am to 7pm (although the shop is famous for staying open until “7-ish").

must try the okonomiyaki dog at Instant Karma tops a bacon-wrapped hot dog with coleslaw, Japanese mayo, shredded seaweed and red pickled ginger.

Instant Karma Location: 527 S. Main St., Joplin, Missouri Hours: Open Monday through Thursday from 11am to 10pm, Friday and Saturday from 11am to 11pm and Sunday from 11am to 9pm. History: There’s nothing ordinary about the gourmet hot dogs at Instant Karma in Joplin, Missouri. Under the guidance of chef-owner Jason Miller and his wife, Suzanne, Instant Karma has been upgrading hot dogs since opening in 2009. The restaurant sources its meat from Circle B Ranch just outside of Springfield, including its Big John hot dogs. From there, each dog is topped with a creative smattering of toppings, including housemade chili, blue cheese, coleslaw, teriyaki-grilled pineapple, cheese sauce, baked beans, grilled tomatoes, juicy mango and fried eggs, just to name a few. Some dogs are wrapped in bacon or smothered in mac ‘n’ cheese, or even crowned with deviled-egg filling, diced green onions and smoked paprika. Anything goes here, so long as it’s delicious. Miller also offers several vegetarian dogs including one made from an oven-roasted carrot that’s been shaved down, rolled in a house seasoning blend and then fried until perfectly crisp. –Ettie Berneking

joplininstantkarma.com

History: Next time you’re cruising through Branson West on your way to the lake, keep your eyes peeled for Hot Dog Man. Thanks to his bright blue sneakers and squirt bottles of ketchup and mustard, this larger-than-life hot dog statue is quite the sight. He’s also the indicator that you’ve reached Mickey’s 76 Drive In. Since opening in 2003, the shop has been slinging Philly cheesesteak sandwiches, gyros, hamburgers and, of course, a whole crop of hot dogs. The restaurant is a cozy 800 square feet, and the dining room is even smaller: You could cram about 16 people in before elbows start clinking. With its black-and-white checkered floor and shiny red barstools, Mickey’s is a colorful throwback to the 1950s. All-beef, Black Angus hot dogs and Italian sausages are served on steamed poppy seed buns, and each comes with a mound of toppings. There’s the classic Chicago-style dog with thick slices of tomato onions, neon green sweet relish, celery salt and sport peppers, and the New York-style loaded with sauerkraut, spicy brown mustard and hot giardiniera. The menu boasts 10 to 12 hot dogs, but customers know the real trick is coming up with their own combination. Thanks to the range of toppings, there are at least 20 variations of hot dogs you can enjoy. –E.B.

facebook.com/mickeys76drivein

must try If you’re really hungry, order the Jumbo dog: Weighing in at a quarter pound, the extra-large hot dog is grilled and comes with your choice of toppings, including the Chicago-style version below.

must try While the classics never disappoint, Wonder Wieners has a new item that might just become your new favorite breakfast on the go: Dubbed the LumberJack, it features a peanut butter-bacon-maple syrup breakfast sausage topped with maple syrup cream cheese.

carlos’ Hot Dogs Location: At the corner of 6th and Olive streets, St. Louis

WonDer WIeners

Hours: Open Monday through Friday from 10am to 2pm. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Location: 312 S. Ave., inside Ernie Biggs, in Springfield, Missouri; and 2825 Glenstone Ave., inside Battlefield Mall

History: What Carlos Pereira’s business

Hours: Wonder Wieners at Ernie Biggs piano bar is open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 9pm to 1am. The upcoming Battlefield Mall location will be open during mall hours, Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm, and Sunday from noon to 6pm. History: Cory Eden likes to say he’s been

stuffing buns since 2001, when he first started selling hot dogs outside a bar in Springfield, Missouri. After growing up in Seattle, Eden was infatuated, as he says, with hot-dog carts. So with college winding down, he decided to turn his love of buns into a small side gig. To his shock, the business grew; he was soon serving hot dogs at weddings and even outside of Busch Stadium in St. Louis. He finally moved into a more permanent spot on the patio of Ernie Biggs in downtown Springfield. Wonder Wieners will open a second location inside Battlefield Mall in late summer. Eden’s beer-soaked lineup includes the Polish sausage he started selling back in 2001, plus new additions like a spinach-asiago chicken sausage and a roasted garlicmozzarella chicken sausage. Split down the middle, each sausage is soaked in beer and grilled before being topped with some combination of cream cheese, onion, jam, relish or jalapeño jelly, served in a white bun. Eden might have amped up the flavors, but the dogs are a nod to his Seattle roots, where hot dogs are crowned with cream cheese. Once the new location opens this summer, Eden plans to have a sports-bar set up with a few TVs mounted on the wall, local beer on tap and limited seating. –E.B.

lacks in size, it more than makes up for in big and bold flavors – and with positively huge hot dogs and sausages. Open only for lunch on weekdays, his cart is equipped with a jumbo-sized grill, where best-sellers like the 10-inch Polish sausage are basted and grilled to perfection. Pereira has operated the cart for 13 years; he previously worked in fine dining in Canada for more than two decades. Hungry customers should arrive on the early side, too: Pereira’s cart usually draws quite a crowd. –L.M.

must try Ask Carlos to make your dog “his way” with drizzles of barbecue sauce and mustard, plus light helpings of onions and relish.

facebook.com/wonderwieners

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

59


Olde Tyme Personal Butcher Service Hours: Mon.-Fri. 8-7 • Sat. 7-5 • Sun. 9-4 4324 Weber Rd St Louis, MO 63123

MEATS & CATERING Prepared Food

314-631-2440

WWW.KENRICKS.COM

St.Louis’ Largest Butcher Shop At Kenricks we make our own hot dogs & sausage in our sausage kitchen. We have over 80 varieties of hot dogs & sausages to choose from that we make fresh daily. We also have over 20 varieties of Ka-Bobs to throw on the grill. So come on in and see our friendly butchers for your summer BBQ needs.

Natural Casing Franks

$

6

49

5

99

lb.

Cheddar Hot Dogs

$

lb.

Jalapeno & Cheddar Hot Dogs

$

60

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

599

lb.

Natural Casing Wieners

$

6

49

5

99

lb.

Bacon Cheddar Hot Dogs

$

lb.

All Beef Hot Dogs

$

699

lb.


Must try If you happen to be in town on a Monday, order the MacO’dOg daily special topped with creamy mac 'n' cheese with bacon.

Must try The beloved ItalIan sausage sandwIch features a charcoal-grilled Italian sausage topped with grilled peppers, onions and potatoes served on a roll.

Must try

o’Doggy’s Location: 1005 N. Rolla St., Rolla, Missouri Hours: Open Monday through Friday from 10am to 5pm and

Saturday from 10am to 2pm. History: Owning a hot-dog shop wasn’t exactly what

Marco Polo’s ItalIan Market at JasPer’s restaurant Location: Located inside Jasper’s Restaurant, 1201 W.

103 St., Kansas City

Cory and Susan Lawrence had planned. Cory worked in the aerospace industry and had just received the parts to build his hobby hot-dog cart when he was laid off. Instead of panicking, Cory and Susan got to work assembling their cart. One month later, in June 2012, O’Doggy’s was up and running. And after creating a few specialty hot dogs such as the aPORKalypse, a dog wrapped in ham, smothered in housesmoked pulled pork and bacon bits, O’Doggy’s cultivated a dedicated following. When winter hit a few months after opening, even snow couldn’t keep customers away from the small hot-dog cart. A few months later, in February, O’Doggy’s moved into a small trailer until 2014, when Cory and Susan moved into a brick-and-mortar shop. With much more legroom and plenty of protection from the rain and snow, O’Doggy’s serves up all-beef Nathan’s hot dogs topped with an eclectic mix of flavors. A rotating menu includes specials like the SouthPaw, a Tex-Mex mix of black-eyed peas, corn, tomatoes, bell peppers, avocado and chipotle mayo, and the bánh mì dog with housemade hot sauce, house-pickled red onions, cucumbers, radishes, cilantro and jalapeños. –E.B.

their iconic Italian fine-dining destination, Jasper’s Restaurant, in Kansas City’s Waldo neighborhood in 1954. In 1990, the Mirabiles expanded their Italian grocery store, located next door to the restaurant, and renamed it Marco Polo’s Trattoria. In contrast to Jasper’s, Marco Polo’s offers more casual dining with an expanded menu, including the famous grilled Italian sausage sandwich. Cooked-to-order on a small charcoal grill, the Italian sausage sandwich has been prepared the same way since day one. In 1997, the family sold the land their restaurant was built on and set about rebuilding their culinary empire in the Watts Mill Village Shopping Center in Kansas City. Fans of the original café can still find the charcoal grill positioned right by the front door of the new location, now called Marco Polo’s Italian Market, on sunny days. –J.V.

odoggys.com

jasperskc.com

Hours: Open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9:30pm. Closed Sunday. History: The Mirabile family opened the doors to

the chIle verde features an all-pork sausage

topped with avocado, queso fresco, cilantro and lime. Don’t forget an order of Frankly Sausage’s hand-cut Belgian fries with smoky ketchup, rosemary-Kalamata, chipotle or honey-mustard dipping sauces.

Frankly sausages Location: On the streets of St. Louis Hours: Visit Frankly Sausages' website, franklysausages.com, to find the truck’s current schedule. History: Husband-and-wife team Bill and Jamie

Cawthon opened Frankly Sausages food truck in December 2015. It has since become a staple at outdoor events around the St. Louis area. The menu is divided into two categories: “Tried & True” classics, including a beer brat with sauerkraut and coarse-ground mustard, or a local all-beef frank with ketchup, coarse-ground mustard and relish, and “Something New,” non-beef options such as the Mary’s Little Lamb dog with grilled red onion, Feta and fresh oregano or the pork shoulder sandwich with slow roasted pork shoulder, mozzarella, roasted red peppers, arugula and rosemary aïoli on ciabatta. –N.S. franklysausages.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

61


Leeway FraNks Location: 935 Iowa St., Lawrence, Kansas Hours: Open Tuesday through Friday from 11am to 7pm and Saturday from 8am to 3pm. Closed Sunday and Monday. History: Lee Meisel developed a love

for sausage-making at a young age. As a teenager, he worked in a local butcher shop in his hometown in rural North Dakota during a busy deer-hunting season. He continued to hone his sausage-making skills as the resident butcher at 715 in Lawrence, Kansas, for three years, before opening his own sausage shop, Leeway Franks, in July 2015. Located in the Hillcrest shopping center, the restaurant has a small dining room with only a handful of seats. Given Meisel’s background, it’s no surprise that sausage is the star at Leeway Franks. Nothing goes to waste in the snout-to-tail shop: Meisel breaks down whole hogs by hand, grinds the fresh meat to make sausages and uses the bones to make stock for the gravy he serves over hand-cut fries. –J.V. leewayfranks.com

MUST TRY THE SWISS-STYLE BRATWURST

MUST TRY THE HoT WIng BRAT topped with Frank's RedHot aïoli, blue cheese crumbles and celery.

Brasserie By Niche

Location: Inside multiple St. Louis-area Home Depots Hours: Varies by location History: Jason Gaines opened Dirty

Hours: Brats are available Monday through

Dogz in 2005, and now has three locations inside Home Depots in Brentwood, Sunset Hills and South County. The stand is unmistakable, thanks to the wall of 200 condiments, which includes more than 100 hot sauces, 50 mustards and more unusual offerings like cranberry wasabi and Provel cheese. Dogs range from all-beef and Polish sausage to turkey dogs, pork and beef kielbasa and brats. Gaines also offers loaded nachos, chili, tamales and Pepper Bellies, also known as walking tacos. –N.S.

History: James Beard award-winning

Served with your choice of hand-cut fries or tater tots, THE BRATWURST is made with 100-percent Kansas pork and topped with tangy housemade sauerkraut, sautéed onions and brown mustard on a poppy-seed bun.

Dirty Dogz

Location: 4580 Laclede Ave., St. Louis

Thursday from 11am to 2pm and 5 to 10pm, Friday from 11am to 2pm and 5 to 11pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm and 5 to 11pm, Sunday from 10am to 2pm and 5 to 9pm.

MUST TRY

has been a perennial best-seller since the 1960s. Or you can sidle up to the store's lunch counter for specials such as pork chops served with baked beans and German potato salad.

chef Gerard Craft opened the French-influenced Brasserie by Niche in 2010, but the restaurant debuted Cinq à Sept happy hour in November 2015. The Quebec-French term refers to happy hour, but literally means five to seven. Every day except Saturdays, executive chef Brian Moxey offers an $8 bratwurst with fries, but it’s more than cookout fare. Past incarnations have included a toasted ravioli brat with marinara, Provolone and oregano; a duck à l’orange brat with orange marmalade, duck confit and parsley; and a deviled egg brat with crème fraiche and fines herbes. You can also add foie gras for $10. –N.S. brasseriebyniche.com

dirtydogzhotdogs.com

MUST TRY THE cLASSIc cHILI dog comes

with your choice of sausage, plus chili and shredded Cheddar or nacho cheese. You can also add tomatoes, onions, peppers, relish or jalapeños for no additional charge.

swiss Meat & sausage co. Location: 2056 S. Highway 19, Swiss,

Missouri Hours: The store is open from 8am to 5pm Monday through Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 4pm (closed Sundays from Christmas to Easter). History: Bill and Margie Sloan took over

operations of Swiss Meat & Sausage Co., then a small country store, in 1965. They soon added a processing facility and walk-in cooler, and continued to expand retail offerings. Over the years, Swiss became famous for producing sausages and link bratwurst; today the company sells 62 flavors of beef, pork, bison and chicken bratwurst in flavors like chicken-lemon pepper and bacon-Cheddar-potato. You can purchase those items, plus smoked ham, bacon, deli meats, jerky and more, from the store in Swiss, Missouri, or through the company’s website. –Liz Miller swissmeats.com

62

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


WooFie’s Location: 1919 Woodson Road,

Overland, Missouri Hours: Open Monday through Thursday, 10:30am to 4pm and Friday and Saturday from 10:30am to 6:30pm. Closed Sundays. History: This local landmark celebrates 40 years in business this year. The roadside stop is hard to miss: Painted bright yellow and orange, inside and out, Woofie’s serves a range of classic loaded hot dogs. The grub here isn’t fancy – dogs are served in paper boats – and that’s part of the charm. You can grab food through the drive-thru or order inside and either sit on the covered patio or snag a stool. We recommend the latter, as it comes with a view of dozens of framed and signed photos of celebrities who have visited in the past four decades. –L.M.

facebook.com/woofieshotdogs

MusT Try The Pizza Dog, one of the cart's

signature hot dogs, is topped with melted Provel, fresh marinara sauce and pepperoni.

MusT Try The Woofie, a Chicago-style dog, is steamed and topped with mustard, neon relish, pickles, onions, tomatoes, celery salt and sweet-and-spicy sport peppers served on a poppy-seed bun.

dogs ‘n Frys Location: 503 Paul Ave., Florissant, Missouri

MusT Try After you’ve finished grocery shopping inside Carollo's Italian Grocery, Deli & Grill, order the original sweet-and-mild Italian sausage or, if you are feeling feisty, the hoT iTalian sausage. Head to the condiment stand to dress up your sausage however you like.

Carollo’s iTalian groCery, deli & grill Location: 9 E. Third St., Kansas City Hours: Open Tuesday through Friday

The hoTdog Man, a.k.a. “The pizza dog” Location: 500 Stewart Circle,

Washington, Missouri Hours: Owner Marcus Daily has his regular-sized pushcart set up in Washington Wednesday through Sunday from 9am to 9pm. His second cart is open Tuesdays from 10am to 4pm on the campus of East Central College (outside the cafeteria) and Fridays from 10am to 4pm at Purschke Oil & Tire Co. in Union. History: Although its official name is The Hotdog Man, Daily’s popular hot dog cart is better known as The Pizza Dog. (The nickname comes from the cart's popular pizza dog, one of its signatures, topped with melted Provel, marinara sauce and pepperoni.) Daily operates two carts, servicing select locations in Washington and Union, Missouri. A few years ago, Daily partnered with K-D Machine and Tool in Union on a giant hot-dog cart – it stands more than 9 feet tall – situated outside the store; Guinness World Records named it in the largest hot-dog cart in the world in 2015. The cart found a new permanent home in the Bedford Center shopping plaza in Washington a year later. The giant cart is currently being renovated to include a kitchen and a drive-thru window. –L.M.

Hours: Open daily from 11am to 8pm. History: Mo Mangal opened Dogs ‘n Frys

in a Florissant strip mall in February 2014, serving a selection of specialty hot dogs and loaded hand-cut fries, and it quickly became a neighborhood favorite. The small storefront serves a whopping 28 dogs, including riffs on classics (the T.F. Kraut, with sautéed sauerkraut and spicy mustard is a salute to New York-style dogs) and house originals (the Hawaiian, for example, with queso, pineapple-habanero pico de gallo and cilantro aïoli). Twenty options of loaded fries are on offer, as is a veggie dog made with fried tofu. –L.M.

facebook.com/dogsnfrys

from 10am to 5:30pm, Saturday from 7am to 4:30pm and Sunday from 9am to 4pm. History: Located in the heart of Kansas City’s bustling City Market is Carollo’s Italian Grocery, Deli & Grill. What started out as a family wholesale meat business in 1988 soon turned into a busy storefront in 1993, and the downtown destination for Italian groceries and fresh sausages. Carollo’s has expanded twice over the years, adding more seating, an Italian wine section, a gelato counter and a pastry case. The Carollos make their own Italian sausage from an old Sicilian family recipe, as well as Polish sausage and bratwursts. –J.V.

MusT Try If you like mixing sweet and savory flavors, try The PeanuT BuTTer Jelly Bacon Dog, a turkey-bacon-wrapped all-beef hot dog with caramelized onions and a peanut butter-and-jelly sauce. For more traditional toppings, try the chili dog with housemade chili, Cheddar cheese, onions, Fritos and sour cream.

carollositaliangrocery.com

wonderwienie.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

63


W r i t t e n b y n ata l i e G

alla

r Ghe

|

Pho

to G r a P h y b y a n G e

la

bo

nd


No, that’s not the setup for a punchline about living in a landlocked state. That’s the tagline for Mitch and Julie Schieber’s shrimp farm, KC Shrimp Co., which they founded in 2015 at their home in Oak Grove, Missouri.

tarp and scoops out a handful with a net; they act more like crickets than sea creatures. The shrimp leapfrog around the surface of the water and a few pop out of the net like kernels of popcorn escaping the bowl.

The Schiebers didn’t expect to find themselves in the shrimp business. They have their daughter, Caedran, and one of her school assignments to thank for the new venture.

The older, larger shrimp in the other tanks bounce even higher. At five and six months old, these are closer to being ready to sell to restaurants. The shrimp come in 30- and 20-count sizes – or what the average diner might recognize as “large” and “jumbo.” (The count is the number of shrimp you get per pound; the fewer shrimp per pound, the bigger and more expensive they tend to be.)

“She was in fifth grade, and she had a list of science project ideas,” Mitch says, “and she was like, ‘Daddy, I want to do this one!’ And it was growing brine shrimp.” He laughs: “It didn’t look like one of the easier ones.” Working with their daughter, now 13, on the science project got the Schiebers thinking about growing shrimp for their family. Today, in a large, nondescript garagelike building just a few yards away from the family’s two-story home, 10 grow-out tanks – 14-foot diameter outdoor swimming pools – keep KC Shrimp Co.’s farm afloat. Each tank contains between 3,000 and 3,500 shrimp, all in various stages of maturation. The youngest shrimp are just a few months old, their tiny, translucent bodies each about an inch long. Mitch pulls back the

KC Shrimp Co. is a saltwater shrimp farm. This aspect is an integral part of the Schiebers’s operation, one that they’re very proud of – and they’ve accomplished it through science. The couple started by making saltwater using a product called Instant Ocean, a synthetic sea salt found at most pet stores. On a smaller scale, Instant Ocean is used in saltwater aquariums, and the Schiebers buy it in bulk. Once it’s been added to the water in the tanks, it’s there forever. Whenever the Schiebers clean or harvest shrimp, they pump out the water from one pool into a holding tank, then pump it back in.

This method is part of their operation’s biofloc system, where a probiotic bacteria is grown in the water to consume the shrimp’s waste (as opposed to an outdoor pond, which would have algae). The byproduct of that activity is floc, the levels of which the Schiebers control in their settling tanks. “We usually just say ‘good bacteria’ so people can understand.” Julie says. “It doesn’t harm the shrimp or people. The probiotic bacteria we’re growing is living in the water, serving a vital purpose in our system. It’s not on the shrimp when they’re taken out of the tank, and it’s not the same type of bacteria that grows on processed, frozen food. And the great thing about our system is that we don’t have wastewater, and very little waste. It’s incredibly sustainable and environmentally friendly.” The Schiebers’s system is modeled after the biofloc model at RDM Aquaculture in Fowler, Indiana, a shrimp farm and nursery where Mitch makes a monthly trek to pick up 10,500 post-larvae shrimp. The decision to grow their shrimp in saltwater over freshwater was largely due to the yield of the harvest, the Schiebers say. “We never really considered growing freshwater shrimp,” Julie says. “People grow freshwater shrimp in outdoor ponds in Missouri, but you only get one crop per year, and it’s risky, because it’s outside and weather is unpredictable. Those outdoor farms have to be careful, because if you harvest after cold weather, you might not end up with a big yield.” “It goes back to the species, too,” Mitch adds. “We’re growing Pacific White [shrimp], and they’re not very aggressive toward each other, so you can grow them in a tank indoors. And because of the way we operate, we have a constant supply of shrimp ready each month.” Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

65


It’s humid in the shrimp room, bordering on swampy. The Schiebers keep the thermostat right around 80ºF, but for the most part, the building is heated from the residual water coming off of the tanks. “The tanks fluctuate from 79°F to 84°F,” Mitch says. “It’s a good temperature for the operation. The warmer the water, the more active the shrimp are going to be, and they’ll eat more and grow faster.” The tricky part, he says, is finding the sweet spot. The more active the shrimp are, the more waste they produce, which can clog the oxygen in the water. The probiotic bacteria in the water needs oxygen to grow, and the bacteria is essential for the water’s health. “If I get low oxygen levels, I start getting death,” Mitch says. “Too much oxygen, and the shrimp won’t mature properly. It’s a balancing act. When we were just learning how to raise these things, it was explained to us that it was like walking a tightrope – and now I know what that means.” Julie jokes that running a shrimp farm is like being in a high school science lab day after day. Each morning, the Schiebers are testing the water for floc levels, oxygen levels, temperature, salinity and pH. These tests tell them if they’re feeding the shrimp too much or too little, as well as how the probiotic bacteria is doing. “We’re taking care of the water and the bacteria, and the shrimp take care of themselves,” Mitch says. “That’s pretty much how we look at it. We do our best to keep the water stable, and the shrimp will be fine. They’ll be happy.”

The Schiebers credit their daughter with the inspiration for the company, but for Mitch, the timing was right. He grew up in Wellington, Missouri, on a farm with row crops and cattle, and has made his career in the remodeling business. “KC Shrimp Co. wasn’t so much getting back to livestock as it was me wanting to get out of remodeling,” Mitch says. “With the farming background, it appealed to me.” The hours of shrimp farming made sense for the Schiebers. Mitch still owns his remodeling business and Julie works part-time, so when they were formulating their business plan, the requisite three-hours-a-day of shrimp maintenance sounded manageable. “When we were looking into it, it was fascinating, this idea of growing seafood indoors,” Julie says. “Using a net and taking home live shrimp to have for dinner gives you a whole different product than frozen shrimp. [We] started reading about where the shrimp that’s in the grocery stores actually comes from, and it’s not good.” Ninety to 95 percent of the raw shrimp that comes into the U.S. is imported from farms in Asian countries. Often, to combat the pollution that frequently occurs in the ponds and tanks at fish and seafood farms, shrimp are given antibiotics. The Schiebers don’t use growth hormones or antibiotics on their shrimp. They order a specially designed shrimp food from a Pennsylvania feed company called Ziegler. A glance at the label will tell you that the feed contains a high-protein blend of soy meal, fish oil and cornmeal – all recognizable ingredients. “It’s the best we can give them,” Mitch says. “It’s supposed to mimic what they’d eat in the ocean. The cool thing about our water is how strictly we control it, so our shrimp aren’t facing any of the contaminants that ocean shrimp would have. They’re the cleanest shrimp you can get.”

66

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


Local chefs tend to agree with the Schiebers. The company regularly supplies shrimp to nine Kansas City area restaurants: The Rieger, Novel, Room 39 Mission Farms and Room 39 Midtown, Brewery Emperial, Webster House, The Farmhouse, Freshwater and Justus Drugstore. These restaurants make up the majority of KC Shrimp Co.’s business.

They’re so delicate and so fresh. We’ve never served them raw, but I’ll sometimes just peel one and pop it in my mouth like sashimi. We’ve also lightly floured them and fried them with the shell on – we talk to guests about treating them as soft-shell shrimp. I’ve found that they’re so delicate that with some preparations, you can eat the whole thing.”

“Shrimp is one of the most consumed and sought-after seafoods for Americans, and we couldn’t feature it on the menu because so much of it isn’t sustainable and you can’t source it responsibly,” says Ryan Brazeal, chef-owner of Novel. “We’d always wanted to use shrimp, and when the opportunity came along, it was exactly what we’d been waiting for. I just never thought it would actually happen.”

Hanna says the texture also sets the shrimp apart from what you’re likely to find elsewhere. “Texture-wise, the shells are quite a bit thinner than a lot of other shrimp – that’s neither good nor bad, just something I’ve noticed,” Hanna adds. “The meat is very tender. They’re very light, so gentle cooking techniques work well. Not overcooking is a big deal – that way you can show off how light and clean the flavor is.”

After placing his first order with KC Shrimp Co. and falling in love with the sustainable and local product, Brazeal suggested that the Schiebers contact a handful of other area restaurant owners. Howard Hanna, the chef and co-owner of The Rieger, was among them.

The shrimp are so clean and fresh, in fact, that the Schiebers – and the local chefs that work with their product – rarely, if ever, devein them. The practice of deveining, or removing the digestive tract that runs along the curve of the shrimp’s body, is done to remove waste, sand, sediment or other impurities before preparing the shrimp for consumption. Julie says that the shrimp aren’t fed the morning before they are harvested, so very little is left in the digestive tract of their shrimp.

“To have a local option for shrimp is really exciting,” Hanna says. “I think we’re on our third or fourth menu that we’ve been using them. We’ve already done four or five different dishes with the shrimp. While other shellfish like oysters can still arrive live and ship from far away, shrimp is highly perishable, and typically, the only shrimp you see in Kansas City is frozen shrimp. KC Shrimp Co. actually delivers them to us live, which is amazing. It’s like getting coast shrimp.” Usually the Schiebers will spend all day Tuesday and Thursday harvesting shrimp, and Julie will do deliveries both days, as well. Although selling to restaurants was never really part of the plan, the Schiebers feel fortunate for the local support. “We thought we’d be selling to people that wanted shrimp for dinner,” Julie says. “We thought we’d be at a market once a week or something. We had no idea we’d be selling to restaurants. The original plan was to sell to the public, but when Ryan Brazeal and Howard Hanna called, we realized that it made a lot more sense for our business to harvest the shrimp weekly and deliver it all on one day to the area restaurants, rather than just meeting a person here and there to deliver one pound of shrimp.”

“Deveining started in the 1920s, when they discovered mercury in ocean shrimp,” Mitch says. “Prior to that, it wasn’t common. Obviously, there’s no mercury in our water, and usually, the vein will cook out, so there’s just really not a need to devein our shrimp.” “Besides, the best way is to cook them head-on and shell-on,” Julie adds. “It keeps the good flavor in there. We’ve purposely tried some of the larger shrimp – which have larger veins – to see if we can taste it. We really can’t. There’s nothing in our water that would make you need to devein our shrimp.”

Word has gotten out about KC Shrimp Co., and demand for the product has shot up in the almost two short years since its initial founding. In 2016, the Schiebers were selling around 30 pounds of shrimp per week; so far in 2017, they’re selling closer to 40 or 50 pounds per week. Currently, KC Shrimp Co. doesn’t distribute outside of a handful of local restaurants, and they’re not yet in any grocery stores or local markets. Occasionally – very, very occasionally – they’ll have additional shrimp available for one-off customers to come purchase. “We’re a little surprised by the demand,” Julie says. “For us, the big goal is for KC Shrimp Co. to become full time for both of us. In order to make that happen, we need to expand. We’d like to get to a place where we can have open hours, where people can drop in and buy what they’d like.” The first step on their way to expansion is a nursery tank. Right now, the Schiebers get their shrimp at 2 months old – with a nursery, they’ll be able to overnight them from a hatchery in Florida when the shrimp are 10 days old. By the end of July, they hope to have the nursery tank running and ready to receive post-larvae shrimp at the earliest possible stage. “They’ll be the size of an eyelash,” Julie says excitedly. “We’ll have them for six months before we start selling them, which is almost the whole process, except for breeding.” Breeding, Julie adds, would require specialized vets and adherence to a host of additional regulations. It’s a possibility, but it’s a long way off. For now, priorities are in material expansion. “We want to get money together to expand our facility,” Julie says. “The biggest problem we’re facing is that we’d have to relocate. The next building, we’ll do things differently – we’ll have a public restroom for tours, little things like that.” Outside interest – that is, from folks not affiliated with restaurants – has been surprisingly strong. The Schiebers have hosted more school field trips than they can recall, in addition to the occasional Girl Scout troop. (Soon, Julie adds, KC Shrimp Co. will be a Girl Scout partner, and visiting troops will be eligible for a patch with the company logo.) “It’s a lot of work,” Julie says, “but we’re encouraged by the results we’ve had so far. We’ve just wrapped our first full year of business, and every month, our survival rate goes up, and we hear about more people who like our product or want to use it. We feel like we’re doing it right.” The Schiebers seem genuinely surprised and delighted by the reception to their shrimp. Some of their fondest stories are about local chefs who send them recipes and photos of how their shrimp is being used. The creativity in the local culinary community, the Schiebers say, has been one of the greatest factors in KC Shrimp Co.’s success so far. “Something that almost everyone says to us – not just chefs, but kitchen staff – is ‘Thank you so much for what you’re doing,’” Julie says. “They say that once a month or more. It’s exciting to have people so thrilled about your product. It’s incredibly rewarding.” 816.786.8486, Oak Grove, Missouri, kcshrimp.com

The relationship between KC Shrimp Co. and local restaurants is kismet. For chefs like Brazeal and Hanna, it’s not just about capitalizing on a rare raw product (at least in the Midwest) – it’s about getting access to a superior one. “These shrimp have such a clean flavor,” Brazeal says. “They don’t have any sort of fishy smell, and they don’t get tough when you cook them.

Mitch Schieber working in one of the farm’s shrimp tanks. Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

xx


The

Blue Owl Restaurant & Bakery In Historic Kimmswick

6-SHOW SEASON TICKET PACKAGE NOW ON SALE !

Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant A "FEAST" Favorite!

Thank You all Local Area Chefs for Making Us #1 Located in the Meridian Shopping Center at Hanley & Eager Roads behind the Best Buy.

FREE PARKING IN THE METRO LINK GARAGE Tu-Th: 11am-9pm • Fr-Su 11am-10pm 8396 Musick Memorial Dr. • 314.645.2835 www.MaiLeeSTL.com

• Maine Lobsters • Jumbo Lump Crabmeat • Dry-Packed Scallops • Jumbo Shrimp • Smoked Salmon • Wide Selection of Oysters & Fish

October 3-15, 2017

April 3-22, 2018

As featured on the Food Network, Oprah Magazine, The Today Show, Travel Channel’s “Pie Paradise,”and in the Wall Street Journal. • Hearty Breakfast 10-11:30 Daily • Country Style Lunches • Award Winning Desserts! • Beer, Wine and Specialty Drinks • Outdoor Dining on The Veranda

Jose Llana and Laura Michelle Kelly in Rodgers & Hammerstein’s The King and I. Photo by Matthew Murphy.

YOUR SOURCE FOR THE FINEST

“Home of the Famous Caramel Apple Pecan Pie”

The Terrific Trio!!! Choose Any 3 Items for only

$13.95

314.993.4844

8660 OLIVE IN U CITY

FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! bobsseafoodstl.com

• Cup of Soup • 1/2 Salad • 1/2 Quiche Slice • 1/2 Reuben • Mini Croissants • Slice of Pie

Ana Villafañe and Original Broadway Company Photos: Matthew Murphy

November 7-19, 2017

Nov. 28 - Dec. 10, 2017

January 16-28, 2018

March 20 - April 1, 2018

www.theblueowl.com

(636) 464-3128

Tues.-Fri. 10-3, Sat. & Sun. 10-5

Full Menu • Full Bar • Banquet rooMs • Dine-in • Carry-out

Dine-In or Carry-out!

Specials for SWAP ONE & Priority Purchase*

Gift Certificates Available!!

December 14-17, 2017

February 23-25, 2018

68

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

March 2-4, 2018

February 2-4, 2018

May 9-20, 2018

FabulousFox.com/Subscribe 314-535-1700 Fox Box Office

3400 Fosterburg Road, Alton, IL 62002 6 1 8 .462-4620, c ast el l i s255.com HOURS: TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY- 11AM - 9PM FRIDAY & SATURDAY - 11AM - 10PM, SUNDAY - 11AM - 9PM, MONDAY - CLOSED

December 27-31, 2017

*See website for details and content advisories. May 29- June 3, 2018

Limit 8 season tickets per household. Shows, dates & times subject to change. Season tickets are non-refundable.


Recipe by Michael Foust, cheF-owneR, the FaRMhouse seRVes | 6 |

Eventually, the Schiebers hope to sell their product on a wider scale. For now, while they do sell to the general public, they don't distribute to grocery stores, nor do they have open hours. Their shrimp are also subject to availability, and they’ll occasionally sell out. If you'd like to get your hands on some KC Shrimp Co. shrimp, email julie@kcshrimp.com or call or text 816.786.8486 to schedule an appointment. If you can’t make it out to Oak Grove, source shrimp from a trusted grocery store or fishmonger. Once you've got your shrimp, consider taking cues from the pros who are used to working with the product. Here, we've rounded up some recipes from the chefs at a few of the Kansas City restaurants that KC Shrimp Co. regularly supplies.

get cooking!

SalSa Verde ½ cup finely chopped green onion 1 cup finely chopped fresh parsley 2 Tbsp capers, drained from brine zest and juice of 1 lemon ½ cup extra virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper Shrimp 36 shrimp, peeled and deveined 5 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided salt and freshly ground black pepper 12 medium potatoes cut unto ¼-inch slices 48 mushrooms, quartered 3 bunches kale, destemmed

| preparation – salsa verde | in a medium bowl, add all ingredients and mix to combine. let marinate for 2 hours. | preparation – shrimp | in a large bowl, toss shrimp with 2 tablespoons oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. in a separate bowl, combine potatoes and mushrooms with 2 tablespoons oil and season with salt and pepper. in small bowl, toss kale with remaining oil and season with salt and pepper. prepare grill and grill potatoes and mushrooms for 2 minutes. Remove from grill and add shrimp for 1 minute. Grill kale until it wilts, about 1 minute. in a large bowl, toss all ingredients with salsa verde to coat. serve. Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

69


Recipe by Ryan bRazeal cHeF-OWneR, nOVel SeRVeS | 5 |

Dipping Sauce ½ cup ketchup 1½ Tbsp sweet soy sauce 3 Tbsp concentrated cooking tamarind 1 tsp Sriracha 1 tsp madras curry powder ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp fish sauce 2 tsp shrimp paste ¹⁄₃ cup mayonnaise finely chopped cilantro (for garnish) FRieD SHRimp 1 cup all-purpose flour 2 eggs, beaten 1½ cup cornmeal 1 lb 25/30 count shrimp, peeled with final segments of shell and tails attached, butterflied canola oil

| preparation – dipping sauce |

in a large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients except garnish and whisk together until thoroughly combined. garnish with cilantro, if desired.

| preparation – fried shrimp |

Separate flour, eggs and cornmeal into three medium-sized bowls. Dredge peeled shrimp in flour first, then in egg and then cornmeal. in a 4-quart stockpot, heat ½-inch oil to 350°F. Working in small batches, fry coated shrimp until cooked through, crispy and golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve immediately with dipping sauce.

70

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


Serving Restaurants SINCE 1973 All of the textures in this dish are light and delicate, so it’s best served at the moment it comes together, when everything has just finished cooking and is bright and vibrant. This recipe calls for tonnarelli, a long, thin pasta; if you can’t find the pasta dried, either spaghetti or bucatini noodles make a great substitute. Keep in mind that the shrimp will cook very quickly once added to the hot pasta and sauce, and they’re best served just barely done, so don’t overcook them! Recipe by HowaRd Hanna, cHef-owneR, THe RiegeR SeRVeS | 4 |

OreganO Cream SauCe 4 finely diced large shallots 10 sprigs fresh oregano, destemmed, leaves torn into large pieces reserved shrimp shells and heads (see shrimp recipe below) 2 cups dry white wine 8 cups heavy cream salt and freshly ground black pepper juice of 1 lemon

Authentic Local FAMILY

Shrimp TOnnarelli 1 lb tonnarelli pasta ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil ½ cup finely julienned carrots ½ cup finely julienned leeks ½ cup finely julienned fennel ½ cup oyster mushrooms, torn into thin strips salt and freshly ground black pepper pinch chile flakes ½ cup mustard greens, sliced into medium ribbons 1½ cups oregano cream sauce (recipe below) 10 shrimp, peeled and split lengthwise, shells and heads reserved for sauce 3 sprigs fresh oregano, destemmed, leaves torn into large pieces

| preparation – oregano cream sauce | in a saucepan over high heat, combine shallots, oregano, shrimp heads and shells and wine. Reduce by about ¾; add cream and season with salt and pepper. Reduce mixture to sauce consistency, about 5 minutes, and then strain through a fine-mesh strainer. add lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Keep sauce warm while pasta cooks. | preparation – shrimp tonnarelli | in a stockpot over medium-high heat, bring salted water to a rolling boil. add pasta and stir every few minutes so pasta doesn’t stick. drain pasta in a colander when it’s just under al dente, about 2 to 3 minutes. while pasta cooks, in a large sauté pan over medium heat, heat oil. when oil is hot, add carrots, leeks, fennel and mushrooms and sauté for 1 or 2 minutes; season with salt and pepper and add a pinch of chile flakes. Vegetables should start to soften but not brown. add warm oregano cream sauce and increase heat to high to simmer. add mustard greens so that they quickly wilt but remain bright green, about 1 minute. add cooked pasta to pan and toss to incorporate. Sauce should be reduced slightly and cling to pasta; vegetables should be tender. add shrimp and toss to combine with pasta and sauce. cook about 5 minutes. Transfer pasta to four warmed bowls, making sure each portion includes about five pieces of halved shrimp. garnish with oregano leaves and serve immediately.

www.oletyme.com 314.436.5010


Ted Habiger recommends using Brewery Emperial’s Biscuit Beer in this recipe, although most American pale ale-style beers will work. Recipe by Ted Habiger, chef-owner, Room 39 Mission Farms, Room 39 Midtown and Brewery Emperial SERVES | 4 to 8 |

tsp dried thyme qt vegetable stock oz American pale ale-style beer lemon, halved tsp salt warmed French baguette slices (to serve)

| preparation | Wrap shrimp shells in cheesecloth and tie with kitchen twine. Set aside.

2 6 3 to 4 1 3 2 to 3 2 2 1

lbs medium-sized, head-on shrimp, peeled, deveined and heads and shells reserved green onions, chopped (white and green segments) cloves garlic rib celery Tbsp unsalted butter oz tomato paste tsp celery seed, toasted and ground tsp fennel seed, toasted and ground tsp crushed red pepper

72

feastmagazine.com

2 1½ 16 1 2

july 2 0 1 7

In a medium saucepot over medium heat, combine green onions, garlic, celery and butter. Cook until fragrant, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook for a few minutes more. Add spices and thyme and stir for 1 to 2 minutes. Add stock, beer, lemon halves and shrimp shells in cheesecloth. Simmer on low for 1 hour. Season to taste with salt. Add whole shrimp and cook 5 to 7 minutes. Remove lemon halves. Ladle broth into 4 to 8 bowls and evenly distribute shrimp in each. Serve with warmed baguette slices.


Recipe by calvin Davis, chef-owneR, fReshwateR seRves | 5 |

Pommes Fondant 1 medium-sized russet potato, peeled and soaked in water, sliced into 5 ½-inch rings 1 cup fish stock shrimP 4 cups water (or enough water to cover shrimp entirely) 10 shrimp, peeled, heads and shells removed and reserved ¼ cup unsalted butter 5 Tbsp crème fraiche, divided (to serve) hackleback caviar (to serve)

| preparation – pommes fondant | preheat oven to 350°f. in a large sauté pan with a lid, sear potatoes in butter until golden brown, about 10 minutes. add stock, cover with lid and transfer to oven to cook until fork tender, about 30 minutes. Keep warm until ready to serve.

| preparation – shrimp | in a saucepot over high heat, bring water to a boil and add shrimp shells and heads; reduce heat to medium and simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour. strain and discard heads and shells; let mixture reduce until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Keep warm until ready to serve. in a large sauté pan over low heat, heat butter. cook shrimp in butter until just cooked through, about 2 to 3 minutes. place 1 tablespoon crème fraiche in center of each plate. place 1 potato slice on top and then top with shrimp (2 per serving). top shrimp with small dollop hackleback caviar and drizzle plate with shrimp-shell reduction. serve.

er is hwat sed. Fres y clo raril o e.com p tem azin g a m er t -own feas chef Visit m o ar fr vis. to he in Da Calv


J. Fires’ Market Bistro

Augusta, Missouri

Come Visit and Stay Awhile

Home to the First AVA in the country!

(American Viticulture Area) LIVE MUSIC EVERY THURSDAY AND SUNDAY Fresh Seafood Every Day

Annual Events Harvest Festival

September 15-17, 2017

Candlelight Christmas Walk

People’s Choice Best Outdoor Patio BRUNCH EVERY SUNDAY 10am- 2pm

$16.98 per person *If you have a dietary restriction please tell your server. We are happy to accommodate your needs.

725 N. Market Street, Waterloo, Illinois 62298 618-939-7233 • www.jfires.com

Follow us on Facebook!

December 1 & 8, 2017

www.thegrilleatthemansion.com

Experience a hidden gem in O’Fallon, Illinois at an 1850’s Italianate Mansion

1680 Mansion Way, O© Fallon, IL 62269

Enjoy fine dining by Executive Chef Jerry Conway and enjoy a tour!

Book a Celebration, Special Event or a Private Party today!

(618) 624-0629

MakeYour Reservations Today!

Plein Air Art Festival April 18-29, 2018

Spa Lodging Shopping Katy Trail

Wineries Brewery Antiques Restaurants

Maplewood’s whimsical tribute to Bastille Day —12thannualfestivalof liveart,music,food&fun— Friday, July 14 from 6 PM to 11 PM Historic Downtown Maplewood Something for everyone! www.cityfofmaplewood.com/ltea

View the Solar Eclipse in Wine Country. Monday August 21, 2017 636-228-4005 www.augusta-chamber.org

Wine • Dining • Banquet Facilities • Cabin Rentals

Under New Ownership Please We Steve and Alcome ngela Gorazd

July Events Sat. 15th – Luau Fri. 28th – Wine Pairing Dinner Music every Friday-Saturday-Sunday Join us for Sunday Brunch and enjoy a New Seasonal Menu with local ingredients!

10580 Wellen Rd | Aviston, IL 62216 618-228-9111 | hiddenlakewinery.com 74

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


PHoTo oF RoARI ng

RIv ER STATE PAR k By

Ro SE HA nSE n

From sit-down restaurants overlooking scenic vistas to small snack bars situated near natural wonders , good eats abound at these 13 Missouri State Parks. Written by rose Hansen

G

rilled hot dogs and roasted marshmallows have long dominated the menus of summer camping trips. Tasty and satisfying, they’ll forever hold a place in our hearts. But let’s be honest: After a busy day of swimming, hiking or jockeying fellow anglers on the river, those humble meals often leave us hungry for more.

At Echo Bluff State Park in Eminence, Missouri, diners can savor mushroom strudel with a glass of fine local wine. In other state parks, you’ll find pork tenderloin sandwiches, catfish tacos and even prime rib. And camping purists need not worry, as there’s no shortage of stops serving good old-fashioned hamburgers and hot dogs; you just don’t have to cook them yourself. From the Central Dairy ice cream scooped at Pomme de Terre State Park in Pittsburg, Missouri, to the famous fried chicken at the J. Huston Tavern at Arrow Rock State Historic Site, what follows is a guide detailing the best of eating and adventuring in the Show-Me State. Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

75


39521

Visitor Center Drive, Arrow Rock, Missouri

Arrow Rock State Historic Site

RecReation HigHLigHts History buffs will love this town, with borders that fall entirely within National Historic Site boundaries. Stop at the visitor’s center to learn about the area’s earliest inhabitants, starting with the Osage and Missouri tribes. In town, don’t miss the courthouse and Masonic and Odd Fellows lodges, plus historic homes belonging to famous Missourians such as artist George Caleb Bingham. The Lyceum Theater is one of the oldest professional theaters in the state and produces plays and musicals every year from June through October, plus a special run of A Christmas Carol in December. This season’s lineup includes favorites like Oklahoma! and Mamma Mia!. Plan a fall trip around the 49th-annual Arrow Rock Heritage Festival from October 14 to 15, an event featuring living history presentations, live music and arts and crafts demonstrations. For a taste of local flavor, make a reservation at Catalpa, where chef-owner Liz Huff cooks dishes like a 14-ounce grilled wild Alaskan salmon steak glazed with a triple-citrus orange-blossom reduction.

Lodging The Arrow Rock State Historic Site offers 47 sites with basic, electric and full hook-up services. A special-use camping area for large groups can be reserved. Beyond the park boundaries, visitors can choose from several bed and breakfasts in town. Steeped in history, Arrow Rock’s charms prove irresistible no matter where you rest your head.

★history: On maps, French explorers marked Arrow Rock as pierre à flèche, or “rock of arrows.” The bluff overlooking the town was where Native Americans built tools and weapons for 12,000 years. By the 1820s, it became a far-flung outpost of civilization for settlers following the Santa Fe Trail. At its peak, Arrow Rock housed about one-thousand residents and many impressive homes. The boomtown nearly collapsed after the Civil War, and then railroads bypassed the landmark; in 1872 a fire devastated several homes and businesses. By 1910, the population had fallen to just 400. In fear of disappearing completely, a local Daughters of the American Revolution branch fought to preserve the J. Huston Tavern, and the entire city became a National Historic Landmark in 1963.

RecReation HigHLigHts At this angler’s paradise, an on-site trout hatchery keeps the stream stocked, attracting more than 750,000 visitors each year. From Memorial Day to Aug. 11 the swimming pool offers plenty of splashy fun, and float trips on the Niangua river are ideal for families. the park’s pleasures aren’t just limited to water activities, though: Plein air painters love the view from shore, and the 7.5-mile Natural tunnel trail curves through a 296-foot long tunnel in the hillside.

Bennett Spring State Park on-site dining

26250

Highway 64A, Lebanon, Missouri

Bennett Spring Grill is the only family-owned and operated restaurant inside the boundaries of the park. A hand-cut and breaded pork tenderloin sounds tempting, but the restaurant is most famous for the house Hillbilly Burger: A triple-decker feat of hamburger patties and whole-hog sausage topped with caramelized onions. Don’t be surprised if the joint makes you wait – everything is cooked from scratch – but if you’re at Bennett Spring for a leisurely escape, why hurry?

Lodging

on-site dining PHOTOS COuRTESy MISSOuRI STATE PARkS

Dine among ghosts at the J. huston tavern, the oldest continuously serving restaurant west of the Mississippi. the elegant 1834 brick structure was first built as a private family home for Joseph huston, but he opened his doors to offer food and lodging to passing pioneers. that hospitality has endured for more than 100 years. today, the tavern is famed for its fried chicken, served family-style with heaping helpings of mashed potatoes and gravy, biscuits, green beans, corn and even a few watermelon slices. For dessert, grab a root beer float at the ice cream shop. While the kitchen cooks your food, ask for a quick tour of the house. Gazing from an upstairs bedroom window, it’s easy to imagine covered wagons slowing to a halt on the streets below.

76

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

Five different campgrounds offer a range of amenities for tents and RVs, from basic campsites to full hookups with sewer service. If you prefer to keep a roof over your head, cabins and motel rooms are available. Every room is furnished with a refrigerator, satellite television, and heating and air-conditioning. Many cabins are located in a secluded cul de sac in the heart of the park along the Niangua River, or near the spring’s headwaters. Some duplexes and stand-alone structures even boast king-size beds. ★history: When 19th-century farmers first settled the Lebanon area, the nearby spring-fed streams were perfectly suited for flour and grist milling. Since the first mill’s construction in 1846, several opened and closed, but the most enduring was owned by Peter Bennett. While farmers waited for him to mill their grain, they ventured into the surrounding valley to hunt and fish, and the area quickly gained a reputation among sportsmen. In 1900, the Missouri Fish Commissioner stocked the spring with 40,000 mountain trout, catapulting Bennett Spring into mainstream popularity. Twenty-four years later, the state purchased the land and created one of the first state parks in Missouri. PHOTO COuRTESy MISSOuRI STATE PARkS


PhOTOS COuRTESy MISSOuRI STaTE PaRkS

on-site dining Inside the Betty Lea Lodge, Creekside Grill adds refined touches to local ingredients. Candied Missouri walnuts are used in salads, and the mushroom strudel stars local Timber Farms mushrooms braised in butter and rolled in phyllo dough. Meats are sourced from farms where animals are humanely raised and not given hormones or antibiotics, and some produce comes from local farms. Enjoy your meal with a glass of local wine from St. James Winery or a cold Piney River Brewing Co. Hefeweizen.

35244

Echo Bluff Drive, Eminence, Missouri

Echo Bluff State Park

RecReation HigHLigHts The park’s geographic gem is Echo Bluff, a towering limestone wall that hangs over the creek. In an amusing trick of nature, its concave formation talks back to shouting spectators. Sinking Creek and the nearby Current River offer family-friendly fishing, swimming, floating and even stand-up paddle boarding. For little ones, the crawfish-rich creek provides hours of fun, and the playground’s boulders and tree-inspired structures are designed to mimic nature. There’s also hiking, mountain biking, fishing and even a 2-mile concrete trail for those who prefer sticking to the beaten path. Wherever you go, keep your eyes peeled for the wild horses of Shannon County, which frequent the grounds.

Lodging Overnight accommodations satisfy every preference, from elevated tent platforms in the backcountry to luxury suites in the lodge and everything in between. The Timbuktu Campground has Wi-Fi, electric and water hookups and one shower house with private stalls. Overall, there are 12 tent sites and 62 for RVs and pull-behinds. Nine modern cabins are perfect for group outings and corporate retreats – some can even fit up to 12 people – and all come with full kitchens and flat-screen TVs.

★HISToRy: Missouri’s second newest state park is famed for its beauty, but it also boasts a colorful history. From 1929 to 1986, it was a beloved children’s sleepaway camp called Camp Zoe. Two decades later, in 2004, it became home to Schwagstock, an outdoor music festival aspiring to become the Ozarks equivalent of Woodstock. It was hosted by Jimmy Tebeau, lead vocalist of The Grateful Dead tribute band The Schwag. Widespread drug use at the festival eventually sent Tebeau to prison in 2013. The property was seized by the federal government, which auctioned it to the Missouri Department of Natural Resources. The area was renamed Echo Bluff State Park and opened last summer.

RecReation HigHLigHts Meramec State Park is a spelunking jackpot: It boasts 40 known caves, more than any other state park in the nation. The most popular attraction is Fisher’s Cave, a relatively primitive site accessible via a 90-minute guided tour. Above ground, fun abounds on the Meramec River, where fishermen can catch black bass, panfish and catfish. The on-site concessionaire offers a 5-mile float trip in canoes, kayaks and rafts, with plenty of beaches and swimming holes along the way that beg for a leisurely dip. Hikers will enjoy almost 16 miles of trail in the park. once back at the campground, relax while twilight settles and watch whitetail deer emerge from the forest to say hello.

115

Meramec Park Drive, Sullivan, Missouri

Meramec State Park

on-site dining Tucked inside the cozy Fireside Store, the Fireside Grill offers snacks, cheeseburgers, barbecue sandwiches and Sunday breakfast. While woodpaneled walls might feel kitschy in another setting, it’s oddly perfect here. The adjacent store is a riot of trinkets like magnets, old-fashioned candy and toy miner helmets, but intermixed are surprisingly useful gems such as a cast-iron skillet or that extra bag of marshmallows for the campfire.

Lodging If you’re looking to organize a reunion or corporate retreat in the great outdoors, Meramec State Park should top your list. Three spacious group tent areas can host 15 to 50 people, and showers and drinking water are available nearby. For families, camping is made more comfortable in the park’s 22 motel rooms or 20 cabins. Tent and trailer devotees will find shaded relief in the park’s three campgrounds, which collectively hold more than 200 sites to choose from.

HISToRy: Just an hour's drive from St. Louis, Meramec State Park has long offered top-notch recreational opportunities for nature-loving city-dwellers. But long before the tourism industry arrived, the region’s resource-rich ground spiked mining activity in the late 1800s. In remote sections of the park today, remnants including steep-sided pits and an old blast furnace. The park was officially dedicated in 1928, with more than 10,000 attending its dedication. True recreational development came a few years later with the arrival of Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC). PHoTo CouRTESy MISSouRI STATE PARkS Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

77


Pomme de Terre State Park on-site dining

Highway 64 B, Pittsburg, Missouri

From burgers to pork tenderloin, the Pomme de Terre Marina and Grill offers plenty of good eating, but the catfish tacos can’t be beat. They’re topped with cabbage, salsa and chipotle sauce. It’s the perfect light meal before hitting the water. And because no summer day is complete without a cool treat, the Marina scoops up ice cream from Central Dairy in Jefferson City. The top seller is Moose Tracks, which is loaded with chocolatecovered peanut butter cups and fudge. enjoy a scoop under an umbrella on the deck, where you can watch the lake glitter in the sun while you cool off in the shade.

lodging 345

County Road 6670, Salem, Missouri

Montauk State Park

RecReation HigHligHts Home to the headwaters of the Current River, the main attraction at 2,100-acre Montauk State Park is trout fishing. An on-site hatchery stocks the river with about 450,000 trout per year. The park's 3 miles of fishable river and designated usage areas means that anglers of all ages and skills can choose from bait, fly or catch-and-release methods. Maximize the fun by moving up and downstream to experiment with all three. The lodge sells rods and reels, plus licenses and tags. If you lack a fisherman’s patience, hit the Historic Grist Mill, which is on the National Historic Registry. Free tours and hands-on interpretive displays are available on the weekends. The park also has guided nature programs, including night hikes.

lodging The park offers motel rooms, cabins and four-plexes, many of which feature fireplaces. Although rustic, accommodations include air-conditioning, firm beds and plump pillows – all welcome comforts after a long day on the river. But if you still prefer “roughing it,” you’ll love the campgrounds. Many sites border the Current River, and you can sleep easy knowing the fish will be near come morning.

★history: Trailblazers braving unknown westward territory often carried sentimental pieces of their past; the earliest settlers of the Montauk State Park region hailed from New York, and they named their first post office Montauk, in honor of Suffolk County, Long Island. The title stuck, and the region prospered. With Pigeon Creek to the west and the headwaters of the Current River in the heart of the park, it became a popular spot for milling in the 1800s. The area’s last grist mill was built in 1896 and still stands today. Thirty years later, Montauk State Park opened on the site, and a company of Roosevelt’s CCC added improvements that visitors continue to enjoy.

For something different, rent one of Pittsburg’s air-conditioned yurts, which feature futons, bunk beds and refrigerators. (But be advised: There’s no running water, so plan ahead.) If you’re in a larger group on a long weekend, the fully-equipped three-bedroom lakehouse should accommodate everyone. That said, the campgrounds remain popular, and for good reason. Pomme de Terre offers 236 sites, the most of any state park in Missouri, and many are located at the water’s edge. If you plan on bringing a boat, reserve a site on the lakefront and doze off listening to waves lap the shore.

RecReation RecR Rec Reation Hig HigHligHts HigH Hlig ligH Hts Both halves of the park offer designated swimming beaches, boating and fishing. While the lake is famed for walleye and crappie fishing, anglers up for a challenge should try for the exotic muskellunge – dually known as “the waterwolf” and “the fish of 10,000 casts.” these toothy predators can reach 60 pounds (although they typically weigh between 15 and 36 pounds). Back on shore, the 2.75-mile indian Point trail leads through sweeping open woodlands.

on-site dining

PHoToS CouRTeSy MISSouRI STATe PARkS

Wooden walls and vaulted ceilings make for a lovely dining experience at the Montauk resort restaurant in the Dorman L. steelman Lodge. the full-service restaurant features everything from seafood to steaks, including sirloin and rib eye. since the park is famed for fishing, try the trout fillet, which comes grilled with the skin on. For dessert, hit the snack bar for ice cream. ★history: Hickory County’s Pomme de Terre River, which translates to “apple of the earth,” or potato, in French, was full of natural grasslands. During the early 1960s, the U.S. Corps of Engineers dammed the river and created a 7,800-acre lake that quickly became a popular getaway for Kansas City area residents. Today, the site is unique to the Missouri State Park system because it’s split into two separate management areas flanking adjacent peninsulas: Pittsburg and Hermitage, Missouri. Pittsburg is characterized by natural grasslands, and Hermitage showcases heavily wooded areas punctuated by rocky bluffs. PHoTo CouRTeSy MISSouRI STATe PARkS

78

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


12716

Farm Road 2239, Cassville, Missouri

Roaring River State Park

on-site dining Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served at the full-service restaurant in the Emory Melton Inn and Conference Center. We like the sound of the hearty hamburger steak and okra. If you had a lucky day on the river, you’ll also love the Catch of the Day special. For $7.99, you can drop off your cleaned-up bounty and the restaurant's chefs will bake or fry your fish and then serve it with two sides, plus soup or salad.

Lodging Located high on the hill west of the Roaring River, the Emory Melton Inn and Conference Center offers 26 comfortable rooms, and a handful even feature balconies with views of the rolling Ozark Mountains and Roaring River valley. Down in the valley, you’ll find 10 cabins and 16 duplexes and four-plexes sandwiched between the scenic river and the foothills of the Roaring River Hills Wild Area. There are also three campgrounds, all of which offer primitive, electric or full hook-up campsites.

The ONLY Farm TO TabLe,

haNd-CraFTed bbQ resTauraNT iN sT. LOuis

2727 S. 12th Street | St. Louis, MO | Follow Us:

★history: Although quiet today, Roaring River State Park was named for its noisy headwaters, which once gushed from a cave at the foot of an overhanging bluff. When the river was dammed for local mills in 1865, it fell silent. After a hatchery stocked the river with trout in 1910, the area became a retreat for fishermen. In 1928, a St. Louis doctor named Thomas M. Sayman bought the 2,400 acres surrounding the spring for $105,000 during a foreclosure sale. Within a month, he turned around and sold it to the state of Missouri for just $1. It’s thanks to an on-site hatchery, this 4,000-acre park is famed for its trout fishing. Families are sure arguably the best dollar the to get hooked if they visit on the first saturday after state ever spent: Today, the Mother’s Day or the third saturday in August, when the park park is one of the most scenic lifts fees for the biannual kids’ fishing day. the surrounding and popular trout fishing mountains offer great scenic hikes on the 3.75-mile Fire tower destinations in the Ozarks. trail and 1.5-mile Devil’s Kitchen trail. For non-fishermen, the biggest attraction is the easily accessed roaring river spring, which dumps 20 million gallons of water per day from a submerged cave at the foot of a towering limestone bluff. in the deep blue pool below, trout drift peacefully. At the adjacent hatchery, you can buy a cup of fish feed to toss into the pools. No matter your age, watching trout bubble up to nip at the surface never gets old.

pHOTO By ROsE HAnsEn

RecReation HigHLigHts

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

79


Route 1

Patterson, Missouri

Sam A. Baker State Park

on-site dining

Lodging

The park store offers a wide selection of souvenirs and outdoor, fishing and camping equipment, grocery staples and quick, microwavable items such as mac ‘n’ cheese cups, soup and breakfast sandwiches. The attached Sam’s Grill is slated to open in August, and there you’ll find classic camp fare including burgers, barbecue sandwiches, housemade pizza, breakfast items and hand-dipped ice cream. An outdoor walk-up window makes picking up food to-go a cinch, although there’s air-conditioned seating inside and a screened-in attached covered pavilion, too. Some evenings will feature specials and live music. Planning to hit the creek and stay all day? Grab the Floater’s Bag Lunch. For a big breakfast, order a plate of biscuits and gravy. They’ll stick to your ribs until lunchtime. For a hearty breakfast or lunch, head to The Lodge Restaurant, housed inside a beautiful stone building erected in the 1930s.

RecReation HigHLigHts thanks to its industrial past, the tailings and crushed limestone remnants of lead extraction now serve as a modern playground. Famed for its 54 miles of off-road vehicle-accessible trail, AtVs, UtVs, 4x4s, and dune buggies can tackle the park’s challenging terrain, which includes steep grades and inclines, bluffs, drop offs and bridgeless water and stream crossings. hikers, cyclists and equestrians can enjoy the park’s woodland on nearly 30 miles of combined trails.

The highlight of the park’s overnight facilities are the 18 charming native stone and wood cabins tucked in the woods near Big Creek and the 12-mile Mudlick Trail. They’re available for rent from April to October. The rustic stone façades are sure to delight, and most have modern kitchens, air-conditioning and full baths, plus bedding and cutlery. The campgrounds are shaded by lovely towering pines, and some of the sites even offer Wi-Fi.

★history: Wayne County’s Mudlick Dellenite features some of the oldest exposures of volcanic rock in North America. Fittingly, it’s also home to one of the oldest parks in Missouri: the 5,000-plus acre Sam A. Baker State Park. It’s named after Wayne County native Samuel Aaron Baker, who spearheaded the park’s creation during his governorship in 1926. The St. Francois Mountains dominate the park’s landscape, crowned by the 1,313-foot-high Mudlick Mountain. During the 1930s, Roosevelt’s CCC built three stone hiking shelters and many of the park’s 18 rustic cabins, among other contributions. The structures still stand today, making visits just as convenient for modern campers as it was for the park’s earliest guests nearly 90 years ago.

St. Joe State Park 2800

Pimville Road, Park Hills, Missouri

on-site dining

True to the park’s humble roots, the no-frills MO Joe’s dishes up simple and hearty hamburgers, hot dogs and Texas-style chili. The burger buns are made in house, but the best thing coming out of the oven are the housemade peanut butter and chocolate chip cookies. A walk-up window makes this the perfect grab-and-go joint for off-roaders, which is fitting, since it’s located in the off-road staging area. An attached retail store offers emergency repair parts including spark plugs, plus summer essentials like sunblock.

Lodging RecReation HigHLigHts

★history: The land beneath St. Joe State Park first gained fame as an active mining site during the early 1700s, when workers removed lead by hand. Business began soaring when the St. Joe Lead Co. introduced the diamond-tipped drill in 1869. For the next century, 80 percent of America’s mined lead came from the Missouri “Lead Belt” region. In 1972, however, the lead-mining industry nosedived. Now known as the St. Joe Mineral Corporation, the company shifted away from lead mining and eventually donated the land to the state in 1976, which ultimately divided it into two public destinations – the Missouri Mines State Historic Site and St. Joe State Park. Today, the park is a must-visit attraction for off-roaders. PHOTO COuRTeSy MiSSOuRi STATe PARkS

80

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

PHOTOS COuRTeSy MiSSOuRi STATe PARkS

The park offers two pleasant campgrounds depending on use, and both are shaded and have electric hook-ups. One is geared toward visitors with off-road vehicles, while the other can accommodate equestrian trailers, and every site on the campground features hitching posts. Shower houses are exclusive to Campground One, from April 1 through Oct. 31, but open to all campers. Because the park is so popular, advance reservations are highly recommended.

With recreation for equestrians, hiking, cycling, floating, fishing and swimming, this is one of the most family-friendly parks in the state. Get the lay of the land at the visitor’s center, where hands-on programming – like a 150-gallon aquarium filled with native fish – delights kids of all ages. the st. Francis river is popular for luring bass, blue gill, sunfish and catfish, but there are also 4-, 14- and 18-mile float rentals for kayaks, canoes and rafts. Big Creek’s calm waters prove irresistible on a hot day, and the flat stones of the gravel bars are easy on tender feet. For bragging rights, trek 16.75 miles to the summit of Mudlick Mountain, although the park's prettiest hike is the 1.25-mile shut-ins trail.


PHOTOS COuRTESy MISSOuRI STATE PARKS

on-site dining The park’s Snak Shack doesn’t just offer scenic panoramas of the lake, it sits on top of the water. From the shaded deck, you can admire the view and plan your day. In the morning, fill up with a made-to-order breakfast sandwich or breakfast burrito. Lunchtime staples include cheeseburgers and chicken strips, but the big seller is the huge 7-ounce pork tenderloin sandwich. Add a mountain of onion rings and you’ll be satisfied until dinnertime. For a lighter meal, grab a garden salad or grilled chicken wrap.

19100

S. Highway 215, Dadeville, Missouri

Stockton State Park

RecReation HigHLigHts

Lodging

Located on a peninsula and surrounded by Stockton Lake, the park’s main attraction might just be its tranquil lake views. Rugged Ozark hills frame the horizon to the east, tallgrass prairie to the west, and scenic forests compose the surrounding landscape. Look closely and you just may spot a flock of wild turkeys kicking around, or the occasional white-tailed deer. On the water, avid anglers will find plenty of sporting fight from white bass, crappie and walleye, and there always seems to be a pleasant southwest breeze. In fact, sailors love Stockton Lake and often journey from neighboring states just to fill their sails. Every spring, the park hosts the annual Havin’ A Crappie Day 5K and 1 Mile Fun Run/Walk to raise funds for trail maintenance and family activities in the park.

The park offers two campgrounds, a three-bedroom rental house and several two-bedroom duplex cabins, but the best on-site accommodations are definitely the log camper cabins. These one-bedroom charmers sleep up to four people and each come equipped with a mini-fridge, microwave, fire-pit grill and air conditioning. A cozy front porch begs for a rocking chair and heart-to-hearts while the crickets sing.

★hISTory: Stockton Lake debuted as a recreation destination in 1970, but archeological evidence including burial mounds and village sites suggests a human presence in the region that dates back more than 10,000 years. During the 17th century, French explorers first encountered the Osage here; in the coming decades, settlers often clashed with the Cherokee, Chickasaw and Choctaw tribes.

5272

State Highway 165, Branson, Missouri

Table Rock State Park

RecReation HigHLigHts

RecReation HigHLigHts: Lodging

There’s so much to do at Table Rock State Park that it’s easy to get overwhelmed. Make your first stop the marina, and from here you can make arrangements to do it all – scuba dive, parasail and waterski. Explore the lake by WaveRunner, hop aboard a fishing boat or hitch a ride on the Spirit of America, a 48-foot sailing catamaran with a broad deck perfect for lounging. At the marina store, you can stock up on sunscreen and beach towels. Before leaving, hit the Boathouse Boutique for souvenirs including T-shirts, aqua socks and Koozies. If you’re feeling waterlogged, the 2.25-mile Lakeshore Trail is ideal for a quick jog.

Two different campgrounds offer tent and RV sites with electric, sewer, drinking water, showers, laundry and Wi-Fi. If you like to plan in advance, check out the premium yurt, which sleeps six and includes a full kitchen, bathroom with bathtub and shower, multiple televisions with DirectTV and a huge deck with a stunning lake view.

★hISTory: In the late 1950s, Table Rock Dam was built on the White River to control flooding and generate hydroelectric power; the dam created 43,100-acre Table Rock Lake, named for the rock shelf that resides about 1 mile from the dam. When the dam was finished, the 3,083-acre Table Rock State Park was established on the northeast shoreline of the lake. Today, the park’s greatest attraction is still the lake, but there are also plenty of hiking and biking trails, picnic sites and even an amphitheater where an on-site naturalist provides nature programming. PHOTO COuRTESy MISSOuRI STATE PARKS

on-site dining Floating right at the park’s marina, Danna’s Boathouse BBQ serves up hickory-smoked pork, beef, chicken, ribs and sausage, plus award-winning catfish. The most famous dish might be the barbecue nachos, but if you prefer something hand-held, try the burger. Eating outside on the shaded dock, surrounded by boats, is delightful on a sunny day. Service is famously quick, and there’s a sink to wash the sticky sauce off your hands before leaving.


Signature Margaritas!

Enjoy Hot Fish outdoors on our picnic tables with a view of the River or Take It Home & Cook it yourself! Bring A Cooler!

made from scratch

Located at 1512 W Main Grafton, IL

F R E S H C U T M E AT S l S E A F O O D l M E AT P R O C E S S I N G 246 North Main St. l Edwardsville, IL 62025 l 618.656.1477 l

1967

2017

618-786-3697 Open Tue thru Sat CaSH ONLY

1711 Saint Louis Rd | Collinsville, IL 618.344.6435 | ramonseldorado.net

Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks! Gift Certificates Make Great Gifts!

Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest

now offering

Join us for Brunch! Saturdays 10-1 106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville 618.307.4830 • clevelandheath.com Mon-Fri 11:00-close, Sat 10:00-close Offering Saturday brunch • First Come - First Serve (No reservations) We Do Not Take Reservations

Roland Barkau

MEMORIAL GOLF COURSE

subscriptions! don’t miss a single serving

- OKAWVILLE, ILLINOIS -

1 year $ Come experience all the beauty of Southern Illinois at Roland Barkau Memorial Golf Course. Situated just 41 miles east of St. Louis, in the small community of Okawville, Illinois our course offers 18 holes of golf, featuring multiple tees to ensure every player a challenging yet enjoyable golf outing.

Annual Events Fair & Wheat Festival and Parade

September 15-17, 2017

Heritage Days

Chili Cook Off

October 14, 2017

Country Christmas Stroll, Festival of Trees and Christmas House Tour

618.243.5694 okawvillecc.com

july 2 0 1 7

2 years $

56

feastmagazine.com Okawville Chamber of Commerce

feastmagazine.com

or

to subscribe visit us at

December 2, 2017

82

30

or call bethany christo at 314.475.1244


13041

State Highway 104, De Soto, Missouri

Washington State Park

on-site dining Satisfy a swimmer’s appetite at the poolside concession stand, open Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day weekend. Here you’ll find burgers, hot dogs, nachos, quesadillas, french fries, grilled chicken sandwiches and Blue Bunny ice cream. On a hot summer afternoon, a scoop of chocolate chip-cookie dough ice cream can’t be beat. The most beloved item on the menu is the catfish sandwich, which features a hand-battered fillet served hot on a hoagie. Umbrellas offer shaded tables next to the pool, or you can head to the picnic tables in the nearby playground.

Lodging Historic cabins are for rent, as are full-service campsites with electric hookups. Cozy and historic one-, two- and threebedroom cabins are available for rent from April 1 through Nov. 13. Nestled in the woods, the cabins provide a great escape with plenty of privacy. Amenities include a full kitchen, bath, charcoal grill, air conditioning and linens.

★history: Most of the land encompassing Washington State Park was donated to the state in 1932, but it has been inhabited by people for more than a thousand years. Known as “Missouri’s petroglyph showcase,” the park contains the largest collection of petroglyphs, or rock carvings, ever discovered in the state. Year-round, staff members lead a variety of programs to explain the significance of the ancient Mississippian remnants. During the 1930s, an all-African American company of Roosevelt’s CCC built a beautiful stone dining lodge and shelters here, and laid stone for the famous 1,000 Steps Trail. For visitors with a naturalist’s heart, the site is also home to natural grasslands, where many of the dwarfed trees are more than 200 years old.

RecReation HigHLigHts Washington state Park boasts more than 350 petroglyphs. two petroglyph sites are located in the park: one sits behind the visitor’s center, and a second, more impressive area deeper in the park is accompanied by educational panels that detail the history of the rock carvings. swimmers can choose between the Big river or the public pool with a waterslide. Easy access to the river tempts visitors with a lazy afternoon float or fishing. For wildflowers and wildlife, trek the 6-mile rockywood trail.

on-site dining the popular Lakeside Dining restaurant overlooks Forest Lake and offers a huge variety of entrées, from burgers topped with onion rings and barbecue sauce to a hickory-smoked ham steak. the house special is prime rib, available only on Friday and saturday, and in cuts as large as 20-ounces. Kick off your meal with mesquite chicken quesadilla rolls or the Parmesan shrimp and crab dip, served with housemade potato chips. or opt for the hand-breaded chicken livers, served plain or with fried onions.

20431

State Highway 157, Kirksville, Missouri

Thousand Hills State Park RecReation HigHLigHts The superstar of Thousand Hills is the 573-acre Forest Lake, which offers ample room for swimming, boating and fishing. Cast a line for largemouth bass, walleye and channel catfish. At the marina, visitors can rent paddleboats, kayaks, canoes and even pontoon boats. While the park’s main draw is the lake and its 17 miles of shoreline, plenty of biking and hiking opportunities abound back on shore, too. Lace up your boots and grab your trekking poles for the Thousand Hills Trail, a 10.5-mile natural surface trek through the hilly forest. For history buffs, a lakeside shelter helps visitors decipher inground petroglyphs of crosses, arrows and animals carved by Native Americans more than 1,500 years ago.

Lodging

pHOTO COUrTeSy MiSSOUri STATe pArKS

The park has two campgrounds, both of which offer basic and electric hookups. Big groups can reserve a family campsite, which has dual pads and tables, grills and lantern posts. Fourteen cabins are available from February through December. All include central air and heat, showers, satellite TV, full kitchens and linens and towels. There’s also a courtesy boat dock nearby and other attractions, including hiking trails and the dining lodge, all within easy walking distance. Minimum two-night stay required.

to LeaRn moRe about tHese and otHeR missouRi state PaRks, visit mostatePaRks.com.

★history: In northeast Missouri, the prairie yields to the rippling terrain of Thousand Hills State Park and its 17 miles of peaceful lakefront shoreline. But it didn’t always look this way. The lake debuted in 1952, when the City of Kirksville dammed Big Creek to secure the public water supply. Around the same time, heirs of Dr. George Laughlin, a longtime advocate for a city reservoir, donated 1,100 acres of lakeside property to the state. The city matched the donation with another 1,150 acres, and then donated the land to the state. At the park’s official dedication in 1953, it was named in honor of Dr. Laughlin’s Thousand Hills Farms, which previously occupied the land. pHOTO COUrTeSy MiSSOUri STATe pArKS Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

83


SUMMER SEASONAL ITEMS HONEY ALMOND COLD BREW COLD BREW COFFEE SHAKEN WITH HONEY & ALMOND MILK

HIBISCUS + COCONUT CREAM SODA HOUSE-MADE HIBISCUS SIMPLE SYRUP WITH VANILLA, SELTZER WATER & A SPLASH OF COCONUT MILK

TROPICAL MINT SMOOTHIE A REFRESHING VEGAN SUMMER SMOOTHIE MADE WITH MANGO, PINEAPPLE, COCONUT MILK & MINT

SEASONAL BAKERY BLACKBERRY KEY LIME SCONE, PINEAPPLE UPSIDE DOWN CAKE, GOLDEN OAT ENERGY BITE, & BREAKFAST COOKIE OFFERED UNTIL AUGUST 23

KALDISCOFFEE.COM 84

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


m ay e sk n g i r Ha e r at tH on a J H e by by H y n e aP tt gr ri W ot o PH

an




FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Addie, Phil and Billy Tomber

“Cherry really shouldn’t look like strawberry,” Addie says. “You want it to be bright, vibrant and eye-catching, but you want it to have a little bit different shade.”

owner of the snow cone stand insisted he take all the merchandise away before even introducing himself. The reason? He didn’t want a rival snow-cone stand to discover the source of his popular syrups.

In addition to local shaved-ice stands, you can find Rio’s syrups at Busch Stadium and Grants Farm in the St. Louis area and inside The University of Missouri’s sports arenas, and the company also supplies to customers as far away as Hawaii, Australia, South Africa and Singapore.

“They like to keep it as their secret, which is fine,” Addie says with a chuckle. “We’re happy that they use it, whether they tell people about it like Tropical Moose always does, or if they keep it a secret – either way, it’s wonderful.”

But that’s not to say you’ll always know you’re eating one of Rio’s syrups. One of the Tombers’ favorite memories involves a longtime customer who invited the family down south to celebrate his 50th wedding anniversary; despite years of conversations by phone and email, the two families had never met in person. But when Billy walked into the room, arms full of Rio posters, pens and notebooks, he was met with a less-than-warm hello – the

Jack Williams, the owner of Tropical Moose – or Tro Mo, as it’s affectionately called by regulars – isn’t afraid to flaunt his relationship with Rio. The company, which operates two stands in Kirkwood, Missouri, has been sourcing syrups, including perennial favorites such as cherry and Wedding Cake, from Rio for the past 20 years. Throughout those two decades, Williams says the flavors and colors have remained consistent and

88

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

dependable. “I don’t have to worry about my customers bringing stuff back and saying, ‘This doesn’t taste quite right’ or ‘This isn’t like it was before,’” Williams says. A former teacher, Williams turned to the Tombers for advice when he was just getting started with Tro Mo, and says the family has been an invaluable resource over the years. If he calls Rio up on a busy weekend when he needs a gallon of concentrate in a pinch, they’ll load it in their car and drop it off at the snow-cone stand themselves so he doesn’t have to wait for his distributor. “I think that if you want a really quality product from people who really care about what they do and care about what you do, then Rio’s the place you should go,” he says. Strong relationships are part of the reason Rio is still thriving. Friends will spot Rio syrups at snow cone stands in Hawaii or Texas, and the company has also

expanded into ready-to-serve cocktail mixes (the Hurricane mixes are especially popular during Mardi Gras in St. Louis), syrups for flavoring funnel cakes and even food coloring used for receipt tape and restaurant order pads. Over the past 10 years, Rio has also seen a huge demand for its syrups for use in home soda kits, bringing things all the way back to Stuart Tomber’s humble soda business at the Rio Theatre. But at the end of the day, Billy, Phil and Addie all agree that there’s nothing more rewarding than putting a smile on a 10-year-old’s face. “It’s kind of fun to make something when you know people are probably going to smile while they’re eating it,” Addie says. “You know, it’s hard to be too upset when you’re having a snow cone. That’s a nice feeling – that you’re bringing a little ray of sunshine into people’s lives. A little bit of sweetness.” 800.325.7666, riosyrup.com


Visit scenic

GRAFTON ILLINOIS Visit for a Weekend, Stay for a Lifetime

www.enjoygrafton.com

Experience the

Grafton Ferry

Enjoy Grafton, IL Waterpark River Boat Cruises Free Concerts Art In The Park Sept 9th & 10th Catfish Tournament-Date to be Determined

Save Time - Save Gas A Unique Experience of Crossing 2 Rivers - The Mississippi & The Illinois ✦

MoRe ThAn 40 loDgIng oPTIonS ✦ STAY FoR A WeeKenD ✦ ✦ UnlIMITeD DInIng, DAnCIng, AnD ShoPPIng! ✦ ✦ gRAFTon hAS SoMeThIng FoR eVeRYone ✦

Hours of Operation: Friday and Saturday 10am to 10pm Sunday 8am to 8pm & Holidays 10am to 8pm

For more info visit www.enjoygrafton.com

View The Annual Calendar for events/schedules at www.enjoygrafton.com at the confluence of the rivers in

grafton, illinois 618.786.8439 aeriesresort.com

fine food & drink at the

truly special events at the

WINERY

tERRacE

2017 Riverside Flea Market The Loading Dock Grafton, IL 400 FRONT ST. • 9:00 A.M. - 5:00 P.M.

Flea Market Dates

4 Weekend each month May 27 - 28 Aug. 26 - 27 June 24 - 25 Sept. 23 - 24 July 22 - 23 Oct. 28 - 29 th

Restaurant Open Daily

Furniture • Glassware • Pottery • Antiques • Collectibles www.graftonloadingdock.com

enjoy convenient overnight

lodging

fun & adventure on the

ZiPlinE

Historic Village SHOP • STAY • EXPLORE Share Our Secret!

escapetoelsah.com 4 MiLES fROM GRAfTOn

Perfect River View & Plenty of Parking! Enjoy Great Daily Food & Drink Specials Watch for the NEW Tree House Deck coming soon!

Grafton Harbor

Featuring a 5 Anchor Marina, Riverboat An Award Winning Seafood & Cajun Creole Menu, Features a Floating Rides, New Boat Rentals, A Floating Winery, Restaurant & Outdoor Deck & Bar A Gift Shop & the New “Rrrr Bar!” 215 Water St, www.graftonoysterbar.com • 618-786-3000 www.graftonharbor.net • 618-786-7678 Grafton, IL

Step across the street to the 3rd Chute Substation Home of the Wine Slushie! Enjoy Great BBQ & Live Music!

202 W Main Grafton, IL 618-786-8888 Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

89


David and Mary Friesen opened Betty Rae’s Ice Cream in the Waldo neighborhood of Kansas City in March 2016 because they wanted to operate an ice cream shop where they’d want to go. David, whose résumé includes Sparky’s Homemade Ice Cream in Columbia, Missouri, and Sasha’s Baking Co. and Heirloom Bakery & Hearth in Kansas City, shares some of his favorite places to eat and drink around town. –NaNcy StileS

with David Friesen co-owner,

betty rae’s ice cream

photo by zach baumaN

ibis baKery

KroKstrom Klubb & marKet

aladdin CafÉ

johnny jo’s pizzeria

sura eats

pizza 51

“They do pop ups all over town, and are putting together [everything] on the fly, making a name for themselves without even having a space.” Kansas City bier Co.

urban Cafe

if you had one day to dediCate to dining out in toWn, Where Would you go and What Would you order? I would start off at Thou Mayest Coffee Roasters and get some coffee; they do an amazing job on their beans. Then Ibis Bakery: The croissants are like textbook perfect. In the middle of the day I try to eat [light]: Aladdin Café is really good… great Middle Eastern and Mediterranean food. The koshary, a vegetarian entrée, has rice, lentils, tomato, onions and herbs with sides of tomato-herb, red chile and cucumber yogurt sauces, and all of it is cooked perfectly. I would definitely pop over to my own place for some ice cream in the afternoon, and then maybe go to Johnny Jo’s Pizzeria or Pizza 51 for dinner.

90

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7

What’s your favorite drinK, and Where in Kansas City are you ordering it? The Rieger has a fantastic bar. And Kansas City Bier Co. is kind of our Waldo neighbors; the Dunkel is really on point.

Who in the loCal restaurant sCene inspires you?

Who or What do you believe is a hidden gem in the Kansas City food sCene?

Katee McLean and Josh Rogers, the owners of Krokstrom Klubb & Market. Every time I have their food, it just blows me away. The flavors are incredible, the preparations are really great – she’s doing such good work and they took that spot and made it into something awesome.

Keeyoung Kim, one of the guys behind Sura Eats. They do pop ups all over town and are putting together [everything] on the fly, making a name for themselves without even having a space. Papu’s in Waldo [has] falafel, shawarma, gyros and dolma – definitely a hidden gem. And Urban Café on Troost Avenue; my wife and I live near there, and it’s really hard to get anybody to do anything on Troost. They’re doing an amazing job – it’s fresh food and really healthy, too. I’d like to see more [restaurants] coming over that way.


Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 017

91


As your hometown grocery store, we’re proud to partner with local growers for the best locally grown produce. It’s picked fresh in the field for that just-picked flavor!

©2017 Schnucks 92

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 7


Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.