April 2023 Feast Magazine

Page 1

APRIL 2023 Drive-Worthy Destinations 17 The Road Trip Issue

AFoodie’s Paradise

know where to get a bite—whether it’s

We knowwhere toget a bite—whetherit’s fresh, farm-to-tablefoodsservedatlocally-owned restaurantsor a closeencounterwith a sharkat WondersofWildlifeNationalMuseum & Aquarium. We loveourcityandknowthebestplaces toeat,drinkandplay.

SEE YOU INSPRINGFIELD, MISSOURI

2 feastmagazine.com / april 2023
3 feastmagazine.com / april 2023 Imagineyour home,totally organized! 2018©AllRightsReserved.ClosetsbyDesign,Inc. CustomClosets GarageCabinets HomeOffices Pantries,Laundries andHobbyRooms. Pantry www.closetsbydesign.com SPECIALFINANCING forupto18Months! Withapprovedcredit.CalloraskyourDesigner fordetails.Notavailableinallareas. 40%Off Plus FREE Installation PLUSTAKEANEXTRA 10% OFF PD CallforFreeEstimate 314-310-0099 LocallyOwnedandOperated Likeusonand 40%offanyorderof$1,000ormore.30%offanyorderof$700ormore.OnanycompleteCloset,Garage,orHomeOffice.Takeanadditional 15%offonanycompletesystemorder.Notvalidwithanyotheroffer.Freeinstallationwithanycompleteunitorderof$500ormore.With incomingorder,attimeofpurchaseonly.Expires4/30/2023.
4 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 4 feastmagazine.com / april 2023 Contents 30 FEATURE: BIGMUDDYADVENTURES 15 MIDWEST MADE: CANNEDCOCKTAILS 10 ONE ON ONE: THE BRAIDED BAKERY
/ 8 / RESTAURANTS REVIEWED Highlights from Ian Froeb / 9 / STL SPOTLIGHT Farm Dinners / 10 / ONE ON ONE Abbie Barton of The Braided Bakery / 11 /   CULINARY LIBRARY Ryan Maher of Field to Fire / 13 / HOMETOWN HITS Jefferson City / 14 / ONE ON ONE Angela Meyer of Loeb’s Mill Bar & Grill / 15 / MIDWESTMADE Canned Cocktails / 16 / CRASH COURSE                     Throw a cannabis-infused picnic ON THE COVER Start spring off right with a canna-picnic PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG / 18 / ONE ON ONE Mitchell Wideman and Drake Bequette of Muddy Banks Brewery / 20 / HOTBLOCKS Steelville, Missouri / 21 / HITTHE ROAD Four destinations outside city limits that are big on flavor / 26 / WOOD RIVER IS ONTHE RISE Meet the restaurateurs who are helping revive a downtown / 30 / BIG MUDDY ADVENTURES Scenic river views meet gourmet outdoor eats
PHOTO
BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT
PHOTO BY CHARLOTTE RENNER PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG
5 feastmagazine.com / april 2023 REAL FRUIT REAL FRUIT REAL FRUIT REAL FRUIT REAL FRUIT REAL FRUIT REAL FRUIT REAL FRUIT LOWCAL. LOWCARB. FULLFLAVOR. 1220SPIRITS 1220SPIRITS @ AlwaysAGreatChoice! 4830PIONEERRD•HILLSBORO,MO•636.797.8686•WILDSUN.COM

ChaumetteIsMore ThanAWinery

WhilevisitingChaumetteenjoyawinetasting, livemusic,awardwinningdining,tours,hiking, fishingorplantostayawhileinoneofour villasandenjoythepool,restaurant,and beautifulviewsforaget-a-wayclosetohome.

Chaumetteisalsoawonderfuldestinationfor yourwedding,event,orworkretreat. Comeforavisitandseehowwehaverisenfrom

Inspired Local Food Culture / st . louis

APRIL 2023

VOLUME 13 / ISSUE 4

EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF

Emily Adams, emily.adams@feastmagazine.com

MANAGING EDITOR

Mary Andino, mandino@feastmagazine.com

DIGITAL EDITOR

Shannon Weber, sweber@feastmagazine.com

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Charlotte Renner, crenner@feastmagazine.com

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Emily Standlee, estandlee@feastmagazine.com

PROOFREADER

Alecia Humphreys

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Alecia Humphreys, Kate Pogue

SALES

VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES

Kevin Hart, khart@stlpostmedia.com

MEDIA STRATEGIST

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

ART

ART DIRECTOR

Dawn Deane, dawn.deane@feastmagazine.com

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR

Laura DeVlieger,

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Christina Kling-Garrett, Jennifer Silverberg

CONTACT US

Feast Magazine, 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 | 314.475.1260 | feastmagazine.com

Events Calendar

4/13

The Great Taste

Thursday, April 13, 7 p.m. $45 for general admission, $65 for VIP Saint Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, Missouri

Tel:573-747-1000•chaumette.com

Explore the Saint Louis Science Center after hours while tasting from restaurants around St. Louis. The annual Great Taste event will feature tastings from area restaurants included in the 2023 edition of Ian Froeb’s STL 100. Guests will spend an evening enjoying live music, items from local vendors, complimentary tastings from restaurants and more. Tickets are on sale now at STLtoday.com/ourevents.

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Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2023 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by Lee Enterprises.
PUBLISHER Ian Caso
theashesofour2021firetoserveyou.
ChaumetteVineyards&Winery 24345StateRouteWW,Ste.Genevieve,MO63670

editor’s letter

St. Louisans don’t have to travel far for a great adventure.

If winter has left you as restless as it’s left the Feast team, this edition is the perfect antidote.

On p. 30, managing editor Mary Andino takes us on a trip down the Missouri River, where she details the captivating culinary experience that is Big Muddy Adventures’ supper club. This chef-driven camping excursion is just one of the ways metro area experts are bringing the culinary arts to life for local residents.

Looking for the thrill of a curated dining experience without the overnight? Andino returns on p. 9 with her top picks for some of the true farm-to-table dinners that are undoubtedly the next big thing just outside the city limits.

Speaking of getting out of the city limits, the Feast staff shares some of its favorite weekend getaway destinations on p. 21. Each of these special spots just beyond the edge of the metro area is a quick road trip full of foodie gems and enough activities to fill a day or two. And for the perfect way to get out without getting away, flip to p. 16 for assistant editor Emily

Standlee’s guide to packing the perfect cannabis-infused picnic.

For even more drive-worthy destinations, turn to p. 13 for associate editor Charlotte Renner’s favorite Jefferson City classics and to p. 10 for contributor Alecia Humphreys’ conversation with the bread baker changing the game in Festus, Missouri.

We all know that good food can change the world – and on p. 26, Andino teams up with digital editor Shannon Weber to reveal how one restaurant is revolutionizing a small town. If you read nothing else this month, make it this heartwarming feature about the owners behind 1929 Pizza & Wine and how they – along with the residents of Wood River, Illinois – are setting the scene for their downtown’s future.

Here’s to a spring full of all of the delicious bites our region has to offer.

7 april 2023 / feastmagazine.com
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RESTAURANTS REVIEWED From St. Louis Post-Dispatch Restaurant Critic Ian Froeb RESTAURANTS REVIEWED

Wright’s Tavern

Wright’s Tavern is the latest venture from Louie owner Matt McGuire, with the great chef Cary McDowell running the kitchen. They have taken over the former I Fratellini space in Clayton and transformed it into a classic American steakhouse that does both the big things (i.e., steaks) and the little things (sides) exceptionally well.

READ

Where Wright’s Tavern, 7624 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, Missouri More info 314-390-1466; wrightswydown.com • Menu Steaks, seafood and truly exceptional onion rings • Hours Dinner Mon. to Sat. (closed Sun.)

Fleur STL

Chef and owner Tim Eagan opened Fleur STL late last year in the former Eat-Rite Diner building just south of downtown. Comparisons between the new restaurant and the iconic Eat-Rite are unavoidable, but Fleur isn’t Eat-Rite 2.0. It’s much better.

Nobu’s

The beloved University City restaurant Nobu’s, forced to relocate by the Costco-anchored redevelopment at Olive Boulevard and Interstate 170, has reinvented itself, with Nobu Kidera serving an omakase, or chef’s choice, menu featuring nigiri sushi and other Japanese fare. It’s one of the best new St. Louis restaurants in years.

Where Fleur STL, 622 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, Missouri More

The onthe wayto BestFeast MissouriRiver

SailwithusaboardMissAugustainluxuryandcomfort. CruisingtheMissouriRiver,offeringdailypubliccruisesfor guestsofallages.Whetheryouarecelebratingsomething special,havingadatenight,planningasmallgrouporjust yourselfweareexcitedtoserveyou.Onboardyouwillfind twofull-servicebarsandmealspreparedfreshdailybyour talentedculinaryteam.Trulyafirst-classexperience!

Where Nobu’s, 6253 Delmar Blvd., University City, Missouri

More info 314-323-9147

• Menu Omakase-style sushi

Hours Dinner Tues. to Sat., reservations only

info fleurstlfoodgroup.com • Menu Classic diner fare with modern touches • Hours 8 a.m. to
p.m. Wed. to Sun. (closed Mon.
Tues.)
3
and
MORE
MORE
READ
READ MORE
Photo by Jordan Opp, Post-Dispatch Photo by Robert Cohen, Post-Dispatch
8 feastmagazine.com / april 2023 !
Photo by Christine Tannous, Post-Dispatch
Klondike ParkBoatRamp Augusta, MO636.466.9754 MissAugustaBoat.com D P C •

Farm Dinners

There are farm-to-table restaurants, and then there’s actually dining on the farm. Enjoy hyper-seasonal, local ingredients in scenic, pastoral environments at these three farms. Each spot regularly offers specialized dining experiences perfect for a romantic date night or as part of a weekend getaway.

Baetje Farms

Baetje Farms is well-known for its award-winning goat cheese. Located in Bloomsdale, Missouri, a short drive from St. Louis, it hosts dinners and brunches featuring its many cheeses at its rustic chic wedding venue, The Artisan. Past events have included a five-course meal with Italian wine pairings, brunch with bo omless Mimosas and a Valentine’s dinner. Get to the farm early to walk the grounds and say hello to the goats before events.

Baetje Farms, 8932 Jackson School Road, Bloomsdale, Missouri, 573-483-9021, baetjefarms.com

Claverach Farm

This farm in Eureka, Missouri, grows a variety of fruits and vegetables, plus grapes for its natural wine. For its farm dinners, Claverach uses its produce alongside locally produced meat and dairy to cra five-course meals. It aims to source everything within 60 miles of the farm. Past menus have included dishes like confit chicken thigh with celeriac Yukon Gold gratin and spring green soup with preserved lemon crème fraîche. Guests will enjoy their meal in a 120-year-old renovated barn brimming with country charm.

Claverach Farm, 570 S. Lewis Road, Eureka, Missouri, claverachfarm.com

Millsap Farms

If you’re looking for a farm dining experience that’s a li le more casual, head to Millsap Farms. On Thursday nights from May to October, it serves handmade, wood-fired pizzas. The farm uses its seasonal, organic produce along with local meats and cheeses to cra one-of-a-kind pizzas. Bring the kids along for a fun experience that helps them learn about where their food comes from. The events also feature live music from various local singers and bands.

Millsap Farms, 6593 Emu Lane, Springfield, Missouri, 417-839-0847, millsapfarms.com

9 april 2023 / feastmagazine.com
STL SPOTLIGHT / CULINARY LIBRARY / HOMETOWN HITS / MIDWEST MADE / CRASH COURSE / HOT BLOCKS

ONE on

Abbie Barton / owner, The Braided Bakery

For Abbie Barton, owner of The Braided Bakery on Festus’ Main Street in Missouri, baking has always been a major part of her life. And now it’s her profession: Barton began selling bread from her Crystal City, Missouri, home in May 2022, and in early December opened TBB’s brick-and-mortar location, which serves freshly baked bread, bagels, pretzels and more.

“I never said, ‘I’m going to start selling bread in my home and then, hopefully, within a year we’ll be in a bakery,’” Barton says. “That was never it. But the demand has been there, and I didn’t realize how much I would enjoy it.”

Barton prioritizes using quality ingredients and making everything she can from scratch. “We use the bare minimum of ingredients to keep our products as clean as possible … My heart is happiest when I see people sitting in our lobby enjoying our food and time with family and friends.”

3

Must-Try Treats From The Braided Bakery

What inspired you to open The Braided Bakery? My inspiration for TBB was not wanting to go back to a 9-to-5 job. I love baking and learned quickly that people enjoyed what I made, so why not make money that way instead of working for someone else?

How did you learn to bake? I am 100 percent self-taught and am very much a hands-on learner. Besides a pastry class I took in college in 2008, I’ve had no training. But that hasn’t stopped me. Where there is a will, there is a way!

What has the community response been like? The community has been wonderful. So

welcoming and kind. I hear daily, “We needed a place like this.” Customers are always offering up ideas and plugging their favorite breads, hoping I’ll make that one next.

What makes The Braided Bakery stand out from other bakeries? TBB stands out from other bakeries in the fact that we don’t pretend to have it all together. I’m not a professional; I won’t pretend I know what I’m doing because I don’t. I’m simply doing what I love and sharing my passion for bread and other baked goods with those who want to tag along. You will be greeted with a warm smile and small talk every

time you come in. Whoever you are, I hope you feel warm and welcome when you walk through our doors.

What are your plans for the future of The Braided Bakery? We are ready to branch out and start getting our products in other restaurants and stores. We are also working on breakfast sandwiches and hopefully a lunch menu soon.

The Braided Bakery, 126 E. Main St., Festus, Missouri, 636-208-4029, facebook.com/thebraidedbakery

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ONE ON ONE
Original Challah “I tell everyone to start here. It’s the OG, the reason for my bakery and such a simple and beautiful bread.” White Cheddar Bagel “There is nothing better than a fresh-out of-the-oven bagel with bubbling cheddar on top.” StiCky Challah “This has been our bestselling challah by far. It’s a huge customer favorite for young and old.”

Ryan Maher / Regional Manager of Operations, Field to Fire

Ryan Maher has worked as chef de cuisine and helped open a variety of restaurants in St. Louis, but that’s not his only claim to fame. If you visit the Tower Grove Farmers' Market regularly, you know him as the mushroom expert at the stall for Ozark Forest Mushrooms; he sells and bags mushrooms and gives customers advice on how to cook with them. Soon, he’ll enter a new venture: managing and running another local producer, Field to Fire, which sells locally sourced prepared foods at festivals and events. Maher describes the revamped Field to Fire menu as “the food that I like to eat. You’re gonna have a lot of wild, foraged components,” he adds. In addition to foraging, another one of his passions is the intersection of cooking and science, and he shares three of his favorite books on the subject here.

"On Food and Cooking" by Harold McGee

“Understanding cooking really just boils down to science, and when something goes wrong, ‘On Food and Cooking’ is an invaluable resource.”

"The Art of Fermentation" by Sandor Ellix Katz

“It’s such a cool book that I always have fun playing with,” Maher says. The James Beard Award-winning book details how home cooks can DIY beer, sauerkraut, yogurt and more.

"Nature’s Garden" by Samuel Thayer

“People often ask me lots of foraging questions. A great book for a novice or an expert is ‘Nature’s Garden.’ It’s a great field guide and has good recipes as well.”

Field to Fire, St. Louis, Missouri, fieldtofirestl.com

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BENEFITING LIFTFOR LIFEGYM HELPING CITYYOUTHFOR 35YEARS TicketsAvailable@ stlmicrofest.org LIVEMUSIC • FOODVENDORS DISTILLERIES VIPTENT • HOMEBREWCLUBS SATURDAY, MAY6 SAMPLEBEERSFROM120+ CRAFTBREWERIES FORESTPARK MAY6,2023

PRESENTED BY

GETCRACKING! NUTS AREGOODFOR YOU(INMODERATION)

ALMONDS

If you’veever wondered why almondsare usedin so many beauty products, theansweris vitaminE:Almondshave itin abundance,and for centuriesit’s beenknown to help keephair, skinandnailshealthy. Studies have also shown evidence that almonds canlowercholesteroland blood-sugarlevels. There are lots of waysto increase almondintake besidesjust eatingthem whole: Use almondmilkinsmoothies, almondbutteron toastoralmond flourin baked goods.

BRAZILNUTS

Thanksto Brazilnuts’ comparatively large size, eating justoneor two ofthem a day isallthat’s needed to enjoy the benefits they bring.They’re particularly known for containing selenium,anelementthathelps protectand repair cellsand tissuefromdamage,as wellas antioxidants,which can ease inflammation.(In fact, eating toomanycan resultin selenium toxicity.)AlthoughBrazilnuts area naturalfit forbread recipes, theycanalso givea lift to main courses, suchas agarnish for savory chickendishes

PISTACHIOS

Earthy, buttery pistachios may havea mild taste,buttheypack more proteinthanalmostany othernut,andthey’reagood source offiber.Portion control comes easierwithpistachiostoo, asthey havea larger servingsize thanmostnuts, but consider buyingthemstillintheshell: It takeslonger to crackopen a pistachiothanjust eatingthe meat, whichinturnwill reduce theamount you’reconsuming.

YOURHEALTHTIPS

It’struethatnutsstuffarelativelyhefty amountoffatandcaloriesintosmallpackages, buttheyalsobringplentyofimportant nutrients,plusprotein,fiberand—yes—good fatsthatareallpartofaheart-healthydiet. “Nutsareantioxidantpowerhousescontaining mono-andpolyunsaturatedfats,whichhelp reducetheriskofheartdiseasebylowering badLDLcholesterolandraisinggoodHDL cholesterol,”saysDr.AdetunjiToriola,a WashingtonUniversityresearcheratSiteman CancerCenter.“Theomega-3fattyacidsfound innutsmayalsohelpbloodfromclotting.They alsocontainpolyphenolsthatcanhelpprotect againstthecelldamagethatcanleadtocertain diseasesand cancers.”

Nutscanbeincorporatedintojustabout anymealorwayofeating,includingketo

andvegandiets,andthey’reaconvenient snackoptiontoo.Astheweatherwarmsand opportunitiesforoutdooractivitieslikehiking andcampingbecomemoreplentiful,Dr. Toriolasuggestscreating yourowntrailmix fromavarietyofnutsforahealthyon-the-go snack.Hepointsoutthattheircarbohydrates andfibercanregulatehungerandmake you feelfullerforlonger.“Substitutepotatochips andpretzelswithprotein-richalmondsor pistachios,”hesays.“If you’rebuyingpreblendedtrailmixes,avoidthoseloadedwith addedsaltandcandieddriedfruit.”

Grocerystorescarrynutsandnutproducts fromallovertheglobe,andthereareinfinite waystheycanbeprepared:Thinkabout making yourownnutbutterorproteinbars, orsimplysmokingorroastingthem.“The

WALNUTS

Omega-3fatty acidsare vital tocellularhealth,affecting everythingfromthe respiratory system to theimmune system. Thebodycan’t produce omega-3s onitsown, so they need tocome from food.Althoughfishare the best-known sourcesofomega-3s, walnuts also hold a substantial amount,alongwithantioxidants, whichmay helpcuttheriskof some cancers.Tryarecipe for walnutpesto or toss theminto salads foran extra bitofprotein.

Roasted Rosemary MixedNuts

3 cups mixednuts

¼ cup pepitas

2 Tbspunsalted butter

1 Tbsp maple syrup

1 Tbspdried rosemary

2tsp brownsugar

1tsp cumin

¼tsp cayenne

2tsp seasalt

Dash blackpepper

PREPARATION

nutritionalrewardsofnutsareendless,”says Dr.Toriola,“butit’simportanttokeepinmind thatsomenutshaveahighcaloriecontent,so limitportionsizeswheneatingthesenuts.For adults,thisisaboutsixservings—sixsmall handfuls—aweek.”

Preheat oven to350°F. In smalldish,meltbutterin microwave.Stirin rosemary andmaple syrup.Addnuts andpepitas to mixingbowl andaddbrownsugar, cumin, cayenne, saltandpepper.Toss nuts inbuttermixture and spreadin evenlayerongreased bakingsheet.Bake nutsfor10 minutes, thenstirand return tooven foranadditional 5 minutes

Per ½ cup serving: 450calories,23gcarbohydrates, 13gprotein,40gfat.

12 feastmagazine.com / april 2023 PROMOTION PROMOTION
DR.ADETUNJI TORIOLA WashingtonUniversityresearcher atSitemanCancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMANCANCERCENTER
SPONSORED C ONTENT BYKATHERINELEWIS
PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMANCANCERCENTER

Capital Favorites

Jefferson City, Missouri – or “Jeff,” as the locals call it – might seem too small to offer much to do. However, there’s the gorgeous Missouri Capitol building and its grounds, which includes the Governor’s Garden and a newly built bridge and trail to Adrian’s Island alongside the Missouri River. The Runge Nature Center offers five hiking trails through woodlands, prairies and glades, and you can’t miss a Missouri State Penitentiary tour while you’re in town – if you’re brave, opt for the ghost tours. In between your mid-Missouri adventures, stop by these three hidden gems for an insider’s look at the capital city’s downtown food and drink scene.

Yanis Coffee Zone

Gumbo Bottoms Ale House

For a true dive into the Jefferson City community, go to Gumbo Bottoms. What the narrow downtown bar lacks in size it makes up for with an eclectic array of craft beer on tap. You’re bound to find something new each time you visit, with rotating brews from the likes of Logboat Brewing Co. of Columbia, Missouri, and St. Louis’ own 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Third Wheel Brewing. Tear your eyes away from the everchanging blackboard beer menu to the bar’s walls, which showcase local art for sale. On Wednesday nights, head to the bar to see local “campfire punk rock” band Lucky, and watch Gumbo Bottoms’ Facebook page for info on other live music shows.

Gumbo Bottoms Ale House, 221 Madison St., Jefferson City, Missouri, 573-635-0074

Yanis Coffee Zone is the ultimate pre-work stop for locals. On any given weekday morning, you’ll see a long line of commuters waiting to get a cup of coffee, whether it’s a specialty latte, cold brew, Vietnamese coffee or the café’s signature “Rocket Fuel.” Owner Taisir Yanis hails from Jordan and brings his Mediterranean roots to the forefront of the from-scratch food menu, which includes gyros, shish kabobs, omelets and Greek salads. Don’t shy away from the gleaming bakery display cases, which are sure to be filled with baklava and rugelach .“ [Yanis Coffee Zone] brings a lot of things to Jeff City,” Yanis says. “The culture, the meetings that happen here, the atmosphere, the laughter that comes with the customers hanging out. [If] you come Saturday morning, there is no place to sit down. People know each other.”

Yanis Coffee Zone, 130 E. High St., Jefferson City, Missouri, 573-761-4277

Sawaddee Thai Cuisine

Many Thai restaurants have come and gone in Jefferson City, but one has prevailed for more than 10 years: Sawaddee Thai Cuisine. Spitting distance from the Capitol, Sawaddee’s downtown location flies under the radar far too often. But give it a try, and you’ll find a standout menu featuring pad Thai, curries, fried rice and appetizers like sweet crab Rangoon, shrimp in a blanket and fried pork belly. The chicken wings are a fan favorite – they’ve won the town’s annual wing competition time and time again – but Sawaddee is equally known for its wide range of vegan dishes. If you venture to Jefferson City in the warmer months, we recommend sitting outside on Sawaddee’s sidewalk patio to watch the bustle of downtown as you sip your Thai tea.

Sawaddee Thai Cuisine, 103 E. High St., Jefferson City, Missouri, 573-893-7600, facebook.com/ sawaddeethaicuisine

STL SPOTLIGHT / CULINARY LIBRARY / HOMETOWN HITS / MIDWEST MADE / CRASH COURSE / HOT BLOCKS 13 april 2023 / feastmagazine.com
STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHARLOTTE RENNER

Angela Meyer / co-owner, Loeb’s Mill Bar & Grill

About one hour southwest of St. Louis sits Rosebud, Missouri, a town with a population of 394. It’s a “blink-andyou-miss-it” type of place with one distinguishing quality: It’s a major antiquing destination, drawing customers from miles around. Rosebud’s eight antique stores vastly outnumber the two restaurants – one of which is Loeb’s Mill Bar & Grill. Loeb’s Mill serves as a watering hole for local folks and a pit stop for those passing through, with burgers, catfish, sandwiches, pizza and beer. Here, co-owner Angela Meyer tells us what it’s like to own a restaurant in a small town best known for its antique finds.

What are the pros and cons of operating a business in a town primarily known for its antique shops? The pros are [that] you get to meet a lot of different people and from all different areas. That’s fun. And then on that note, they bring more customers to you … We’ve got good days, we’ve got bad days; you’ve got the good times of the year and the bad times. So far, it’s more busy than slow.

Is there a season most antique enthusiasts come to Rosebud? The busiest season is summer, with bikers traveling from Lake of the Ozarks back to St. Louis. Along with the antique shops, that brings many people in from out of town. The [shop] across the street from us, The Rusty Gate, she’s

open seven days a week. She gets a lot of traffic. If I have people in and they’re like, “Where’s a good place to shop?” I send them over to her. And then vice versa: [When people ask] “Where’s a good place to eat?” she sends them to us.

What can you tell us about the history of Loeb’s Mill Bar & Grill’s building? It was originally a feed mill in 1917. When my dad was a li le boy, he used to play here as a kid until it closed in the early 1970s. Another guy and his family bought it, and he made car wash soap here. When he retired, my dad, John Loeb, bought the building in 2015. We cleaned up and remodeled the entire building, and we opened the bar in August of 2017. The whole town has history. Almost every building [houses] antique shops.

What else is there to do around Rosebud?

In Sullivan, you’ve got the caverns. People can go visit Hermann for the day and enjoy all the wineries. We’ve got a couple of wineries around this area, like White Mule Winery. You have Pinckney Bend [Distillery] in New Haven. You’ve got Washington that has all the neat businesses along the riverfront. There is a lot to do; you just have to drive and enjoy the scenery.

What keeps you and your business in Rosebud?

Family. Rosebud’s home. It will always be home. My dad has lived here for 78 years.

Loeb’s Mill Bar & Grill, 205 US-50, Rosebud, Missouri, 573-764-5210, facebook.com/people/ Loebs-Mill-Bar-And-Grill

Antique Shops to Visit in Rosebud

THE RUSTY GATE

ANTIQUE MALL

Across the street from Loeb’s Mill Bar & Grill sits The Rusty Gate. It’s one of the few antique shops in town that’s open seven days a week – most are only open on the weekends – making it a reliable stop no ma er when you happen to pass through Rosebud.

RED BRICK ANTIQUES AND MORE

“And More” is the part you should be paying a ention to in this shop’s title. Red Brick Antiques recently started selling homemade baked goods and other local products out of its rustic antique shop, and it also offers a place for visitors to stay in a suite on the building’s second level.

ROSEBUD’S GRAND

ANTIQUE MALL

This antiquing gem is switching up its business style; it’s only open for in-person shopping twice this year (May 13 and Oct. 14). But business is booming in its online Facebook and Instagram stories, where it sells dozens of antiques each Tuesday night, available for pickup in Rosebud.

14 feastmagazine.com / april 2023
ONE ON ONE
ONE on
3
JOHN LOEB AND ANGELA MEYER

Canned Cocktails Perfect for C mping

Although we all love drinking a Stag around a campfire, sometimes after a busy day outdoors we want something a little different. Midwest distillers make it easy to bring craft cocktails with you, adding fruit juice, syrups and creative flavors to their gin, tequila and vodka. Next time you’re headed off to the great outdoors, stock your cooler with these locally made options.

1220 Artisan Spirits

This craft distillery, led by the folks at 4 Hands Brewing Co., offers a wide variety of specialty canned cocktails. Options range from a classic Margarita to a cherry limeade with vodka. A must-try is the Lemonade and Lavender with vodka: a tart and herbal combo perfect for a warm day.

WHERETO PURCHASE: FriarTuck,Total Wine&More andSchnucks locations

1220spirits.com

Pinckney Bend Distillery

This distillery was 2022’s Feast 50 Award winner for best distillery, and it’s easy to see why. Its gin, vodka and whiskey are made in small batches and inspired by native Missouri flora. It offers two signature canned cocktails. Its classic gin and tonic is sheer perfection, with a light citrus flair and crispness. The Hibhound is made with Pinckney’s hibiscus gin, tonic syrup and grapefruit juice; it’s an easy sipper for a hot day.

pinckneybend.com

Loyal Hemp

WHERETO PURCHASE: TotalSchnucksandlocationsWine&More

If you’re looking to enjoy an ice-cold drink without the alcohol, reach for Loyal Hemp’s canned seltzers. Each can has 5 mg of hemp-derived Delta 8 and is sugar-free and gluten-free. Flavors include lemon yuzu, orange cream, pineapple and toasted marshmallow. shop.bemightykind.com

WHERETO PURCHASE: BuyonlineoratThe WineandCheese PlaceorFriarTuckin Crestwood,MO

Tom’s Town Distilling Co.

Based in Kansas City, Tom’s Town offers four premium canned cocktails. Flavor options include elderflower lime gin, grapefruit clove gin, lemon gin Collins and strawberry mint vodka. The elderflower lime mixes a premium botanical gin with calamansi lime and sparkling water for a refreshing, herbal cocktail.

WHERETO PURCHASE: Schnucksand FriarTuck locations

toms-town.com

STL SPOTLIGHT / CULINARY LIBRARY / HOMETOWN HITS / MIDWEST MADE / CRASH COURSE / HOT BLOCKS 15 april 2023 / feastmagazine.com
WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

Plan a

CaNnA-picNic

EXPERT TIPS FOR AN INFUSED MEAL

Want to turn your average picnic into something especially noteworthy? Try adding THC or CBD to your sweets and spreads. Cooking with cannabis at home can be enjoyable and rewarding, but it also takes skill and know-how. We asked a few cannabis experts to explain their methods, tips and tricks for creating a delicious infused picnic.

Sweet Infused Treats

If you want to rework the classic infused brownie, turn to Honeybee Edibles. Part of Proper Cannabis, Honeybee combines THC with topof-the-line European chocolate. The chocolate can be picked up – as long as you’re 21 years old – at dispensaries all over the state. Flavors range from banana and candied black walnut in white chocolate to espresso, caramel and toffee in dark chocolate.

Figuring out infusions and dosages can be challenging, but Honeybee takes out the guesswork. The amount of THC per bar is listed right on the packaging. Melt down the bars for hot chocolate, add them to s’mores or bake with them. “We’ve had tons of people put them in brownies or even break them up and use them as ‘chocolate chips’ in cookies,” Proper marketing manager Spencer Pernikoff says. “Milkshakes, too.”

Leah Osborne, chef-owner of Yonder Eats, uses THC butter in baking applications because it can handle a higher temperature. If you’re baking at home, finding the correct dosage is key. “There’s always math for whatever you’re using, [whether it’s] oil, butter or water soluble, so that’s [the] most important [factor],” she says.

All About the Sauce

Local experts like Osborne and Aliya Waldman, chef-owner of Chartreuse Dinner Club, encourage people to think beyond sweet applications when it comes to cannabis. For a picnic, Osborne recommends infusing various elements of a charcuterie board or the spread on a sandwich. “I would infuse the jam I smear on my crackers,” she says. “While I’m at it, I would make a sandwich and infuse my own mayo.”

One of the bases Osborne uses is Mighty Kind’s water-soluble THC, which works well for certain savory foods. “Especially when making sauces or soups,” she says. “[It’s] so easy to incorporate into the food once we’ve gotten it below 200 degrees.”

Even if your group has varying levels of tolerance, dosage is customizable: Waldman recommends infusing sauces and dressings

instead of the main part of the meal, so people can add as much or as little as they prefer. “Because I want to keep the meals I serve inclusive to folks who either have high tolerances or very low tolerances, all of my infusions are topical and added into a slaw or drizzle atop the meal,” she says. “I love serving a seared duck breast with a little infused chimichurri on top.”

Determining Dosage

When it comes to cooking with cannabis, safety and research are paramount. “I think you should always do a test on yourself before serving to others,” Waldman says. “Maybe start by eating a teaspoon of your oil, wait 45 minutes and track how you’re feeling from there.”

Osborne echoes the call for caution and patience. “Most edibles take time to kick in, and this all depends on the product you use and your metabolism,” she says. “Be patient, sit back and enjoy.”

Different methods of infusion can also affect the potency of a dish. When it comes to fat-soluble THC, “the fattier the oil, the more the THC will adhere to it, giving you a much higher potency,” Waldman says.

“Most [people] can get away with the stovetop method for small batches, which involves breaking up your cannabis and ‘decarbing’ to release oils in the oven at a low temp, then stirring into the oil on low heat for a specific amount of time,” she says, adding that Leafly – a website promoting cannabis education – has handy guides for home cooks to follow. Think of “decarbing” as activation – the process involves heating cannabis to a certain point in order to physically alter its structure.

Just remember: When cooking with cannabis, less is more. You want to enjoy the food you’ve worked so hard to create.

Honeybee Edibles, honeybee-edibles.com

Proper Cannabis, propercannabis.com

Yonder Eats, instagram.com/yonder_eats_stl

The Chartreuse Dinner Club, instagram.com/thechartreusedinnerclub

STL SPOTLIGHT / CULINARY LIBRARY / HOMETOWN HITS / MIDWEST MADE / CRASH COURSE / HOT BLOCKS
WRITTEN BY EMILY STANDLEE | PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG Infuse brownies and cookies with Honeybee Edibles' European chocolate and THC combo

Amp up your sandwiches with infused pesto or mayo

Water-soluble THC works well for certain savory foods like slaws & dips

17 april 2023 / feastmagazine.com
to
Add THC
your jams on your charcuterie boards

ONE on

Mitchell Wideman and Drake Bequette partners, Muddy Banks Brewery

Must-Try Beers From Muddy Banks

This single malt lager has a mild body and a balanced,

Muddy Banks Brewery opened last spring in Sullivan, Missouri, but business partners

Mitchell Wideman and Drake Bequette have known each other their whole lives. Long before turning their homebrewing hobby into a business, the two spent summers on local waterways while cherishing the precious refuge from the heat. With Makayla Bequette rounding out the ownership team as the head of marketing and taproom manager, the trio set out to honor the river by creating their own gathering place. Muddy Banks Brewery offers a variety of lagers, ales and cocktails in addition to a robust food menu featuring local beef, housemade sausages and hand-cut fries.

How was the transition from homebrewing to starting a brewery?

DB: Homebrewing was way less stressful. There really wasn’t a transition. It was kind of just jumping off a cliff.

MW: Drake actually got me into homebrewing a couple of years after he started, and it kind of snowballed. I never thought I was ready, and Drake’s a get-it-done guy. When Drake gets working on something, hang on or you're going to get left behind. I got the opportunity to work with Dave Johnson up at Missouri Beer Company; he’s been a mentor to tons of brewers. With me and Drake being self-taught, he really took us under his wing and helped us fill the gaps.

How would you describe your approach to brewing?

MW: I want to be able to drink every beer on the

river. You know, you close your eyes, and it’s nothing that’s going to be super heavy or bog you down. Being that we’re in Sullivan, everyone grew up drinking domestic lagers and no one really branched out. So when we started, it was important for us to be approachable to bring people over from just drinking big name domestics into trying some craft beers. So our approach has always been to brew what we think people will like, not necessarily pushing the edge. Now, that being said, we’ve been absolutely shocked at the response of just old-timers coming in and demanding one of our ales.

Going from making beer for your friends and family to where anyone can just wander in and try your stuff is pretty nerve-racking, but

we’ve gotten to the point where we’re confident we can make good beer. We were kind of playing it safe in the beginning, and now we’re spreading our wings as we’re getting more comfortable.

How did you pick the name Muddy Banks?

DB: Me and Mitchell grew up on the river. I spent a lot of time with him as a kid, swimming and floating.

MW: It felt like home. A lot of people spend a lot of time on the banks of the river, and we wanted people to spend a lot of time at our Muddy Banks.

Muddy Banks Brewery, 725 Acid Mine Road, Sullivan, Missouri, 573-468-0299, muddybanksbrewery.com

An American wheat ale made with dark raspberries, this brew's biscuit notes that come from the malt are reminiscent of a raspberry tart.

This hazy IPA is whirlpooled and extensively dry-hopped with Citra, galaxy and mosaic hops; it’s juicy and aromatic with bursts of citrus.

ONE ON ONE
LocaL Boy hoppy finish. RaspBeRRy RevivaL RiveR Daze Haze
3
18 feastmagazine.com / april 2023
WRITTEN BY KATE POGUE | PHOTOS COURTESY OF MUDDY BANKS BREWERY OWNERS OF MUDDY BANKS BREWERY
19 feastmagazine.com / april 2023 stonehillwinery.com | 800-909-9463 | Hermann,MO DiscoverTheDistrict.com

SwingbySteelville

Three of Missouri’s most popular rivers for float trips meet in Steelville, Missouri, making this small town an undeniable floating destination. Steelville embraces its river-centric destiny wholeheartedly; cruise down High Street and you’ll see hand-painted canoes rising from the sidewalk. This street is also where you’ll find specialty burgers, ice cream and coffee to help you recharge before or a er your time on the river.

Dairy Isle & Grill

Dairy Isle & Grill’s menu features burgers too, but its real draw is the ice cream. You’ll get more than chocolate and vanilla here; try the banana pudding shake, brookie (brownie and cookie) concrete or the Harry Po er-inspired Bu erbeer shake. The casual window-service joint’s regular hand-scooped ice cream flavors include black walnut, strawberry cheesecake and orange sherbet. For the kids, get the I y Bi y Baby Cone, which rings in at less than a dollar.

Dairy Isle & Grill, 502 Main St., Steelville, Missouri, 573-775-5388, dairyisle.com

Rich’s Famous Burgers

When you’re physically and mentally drained from a day on the water, a burger and fries are guaranteed to revive you, and Rich’s Famous Burgers has a menu full of specialty burgers, apps and sweets. A can’t-miss menu item is the jam burger: an Angus pa y topped with bacon, peanut bu er and a housemade hot pepper jam on Texas toast. Other burger options include a breakfast burger complete with a sunny-side-up egg; the Big Cheesy, with American and cheddar cheeses, bacon, deepfried jalapeño mac ‘n’ cheese bites and a sweet barbecue sauce; and a flame-grilled soy protein burger.

Rich’s Famous Burgers, 112 Main St., Steelville, Missouri, 573-775-8888, richsfamousburgers.com

Singing Butcher Shoppe

If you’re spending the night in Steelville, your vacation rental is most likely outfi ed with a grill. Instead of bringing meat from home, stop by the Singing Butcher Shoppe for fresh, local cuts. For a crowdpleaser, pick up some brats, which come in rotating flavors including strawberry rhubarb, jalapeño popper and curry. All of the brats and sausages are made in-house, and the bacon is smoked in-house. The shop also serves sandwiches for lunch Tuesday through Friday; you might get lucky and come on a day it’s serving a soup special like chicken noodle or potato.

Singing Butcher Shoppe, 104 Main St., Steelville, Missouri, 573-775-4561, singingbutchershoppe.com

Spare Rib Inn

Open since 1929, Spare Rib Inn has earned its time-worn sign proclaiming "good home cooking." The cozy eatery opens for breakfast at 5:30 a.m. and closes late enough for you to grab dinner too. For breakfast, choose from diner classics like omelets, pancakes and biscuits and gravy, or opt for the aptly named Meramec Stack, which comes with four layers of the meat, cheese and vegetables of your choice. The lunch and dinner menu includes burgers, sandwiches and fried sides, and you can always expect daily specials like Polish sausage and kraut or hand-ba ered fried fish.

Spare Rib Inn, 119 Main St., Steelville, Missouri, 573-775-2077

The Fountain Emporium/Em’s Bakery

Take a step back in time as you walk into The Fountain Emporium, which is also the home of Em’s Bakery. It’s located in a historic general store building, with a black-and-white checkered floor, shiny barstools and classic Coca-Cola memorabilia. And The Fountain Emporium still holds the essence of a general store; it stocks products like artisan soda bo les, jewelry, clothes and more. You can count on freshly baked treats – think Nutella-filled puff pastries, cinnamon rolls and cookies – as well as housemade ice cream any time you stop in and lunch specials on select Saturdays.

The Fountain Emporium/Em’s Bakery, 105 Main St., Steelville, Missouri, 573-775-2800, facebook.com/thesodafountain

STL SPOTLIGHT / CULINARY LIBRARY / HOMETOWN HITS / MIDWEST MADE / CRASH COURSE / HOT BLOCKS
WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER|PHOTOS COURTESYOF DAIRYISLE & GRILL
20 feastmagazine.com / april 2023

How St. Louis farms and restaurants are sourcing seafood sustainably in a land-locked state

2023

AS WARMER WEATHER RETURNS, THE PULL TO GET IN THE CAR AND GET OUT OF TOWN COMES WITH IT.

Whether you’re a history buff or nature lover, we have the perfect weekend destination for you just within an hour or two of St. Louis. We've mapped out a full itinerary for each featured trip, complete with museums, antique shops and more. And, of course – most importantly – there’s the food: Check out our recommendations for locally owned restaurants that will make the eats the highlight of your trip.

weekend
getaways feast magazine’s
21 april 2023 / feastmagazine.com

GreatRiverRoad Weekend Getaway

a road trip with a view

The Great River Road is an all-American icon; it traces the mighty Mississippi River across 10 states. For a road trip that’s all about the journey rather than the destination, hop on the River Road in Wood River, Illinois, and keep driving to enjoy museums, art and great eats.

WHAT TO DO

Travel west on this scenic byway to one of its most prominent stops: the National Great Rivers Museum. The 12,000-square-foot facility boasts interactive exhibits, fish tanks and a theater – plus free tours of the massive Melvin Price Locks and Dam, which helps barges navigate changing water levels. The museum works with nonprofit organization Meeting of the Rivers Foundation to educate the public on the marvels of the Mississippi River.

Five miles west of the museum is Piasa Park. In the late 1600s, Europeans spotted a mural painted high on the limestone bluffs along the river. A variety of conflicting accounts exist about the mural’s true imagery –some say it’s an underwater panther, while others believe it’s a giant, man-eating bird of prey, dubbed “Piasa” by the Illini Native Americans. The original image has been worn down over time and no longer exists, but another was painted a few hundred yards upstream and is visible today.

After the park, hop aboard the Grafton Ferry – just 14 miles farther west – which takes visitors across the Mississippi to St. Charles, Missouri. As a true functioning ferry, vehicles and bicycles can also make the journey. Just remember to bring cash to catch a ride.

As an alternative to the ferry, travelers can cross the Clark Bridge and head south toward the Edward “Ted” and Pat Jones-Confluence Point State Park. Once there, walk through the woods to the point at which the Mississippi and Missouri rivers meet. The confluence point offers panoramic views, and if timed correctly, it’s possible to see the sun set on one side and the moon rise on the other.

Distance from STL: 1 hour

Best known for: scenic river views and hikes

Type of eats: family-friendly joints and riverside seafood spots

The Loading Dock

WHERE TO EAT

Alton, Illinois, is awash with historic homes and buildings, but the bar and restaurant scene is one of a kind.

One local favorite is Fast Eddie’s Bon Air, which is housed in a yellow brick building that belonged to AnheuserBusch in the 1920s. The classic establishment specializes in peel ‘n’ eat shrimp, homemade bratwurst and chicken and pork kabobs. When weather permits, patrons can dine and drink in the very popular open-air courtyard. Bring cash, or use the ATM on-site.

Down the road in Grafton, Illinois, pay a visit to O’ Jan’s Fish Stand for fried catfish or The Loading Dock for a scenic lunch on the water.

WHERE TO STAY

Exploring the Great River Road is an easy day trip, but if you’re interested in making a weekend out of it, book a room at the Alton Cracker Factory. This Victorian-style former factory gives guests a bird’s-eye view of the water and surrounding wetlands. The rooms are a luxurious mix of new and old, with wooden beams and brick walls original to the building.

Alton Cracker Factory, 205 E. Broadway, Alton, Illinois, 618-381-8433, altoncrackerfactory.com

22 feastmagazine.com / april 2023
Fast Eddies BonAir
O'Jan's Fish Stand

Hermann, Mo Weekend

Getaway

A Charming, Small-Town Getaway

Hermann has a reputation throughout Missouri as being one of the premier destinations for wine lovers and for good reason: It’s home to some of the best wineries in the Midwest. If vineyards and wine tastings aren’t your thing, or you’re bringing your kids along, this small town with big German roots still has plenty to see and do. Less than 90 minutes away from St. Louis, Highway 100 quickly gives way to farm-lined roads that lead you right into the town center – a collection of bustling restaurants, coffee bars, local shops and bed-and-breakfast accommodations, all housed in historic buildings fronted by friendly welcome signs.

WHERE TO STAY

If you enjoy being steps away from shopping and restaurants and a breezy modern aesthetic, book a stay at Schiller House or its sister property Vinchester Inn. For a timeless Hermann vibe, stay at The Inn at Hermannhof, decorated with warm woods and stone. If the rolling hills that surround town are more your style, the owners of Inn at Hermannhof also own The Cottages at Schroeder Hill, which were once owned by jack-of-all-trades Carl Schroeder in the mid-1800s; choose to stay in his former residence, workshop or violin shop, all transformed into wellappointed living spaces. For an even more scenic view, stay in one of three treehouses or the classic cabin on the property of Hermann Cottages, a bed and breakfast “with altitude” just minutes away from town by car.

Distance from STL: 1.5 hours

Best known for: wineries, historic buildings and antique shops

Type of eats: Coffee shops, delis and classic tavern fare

WHAT TO DO

Hermann’s easy walkability makes it perfect for a leisurely weekend of popping in and out of a mix of antique stores and modern boutiques. Wander around town, and you’ll find the Fancy Pheasant, a curated general store filled with specialty food and food-related products. Hermann’s Attic Antique Mall is a special gem with an eye-popping array of one-of-a-kind items.

Once you’re done shopping, Hermann Farm, located next to the town center, offers tours of the property, which is great for kids and adults alike. Visit Deutschheim State Historic Site, a state-owned park and collection of buildings preserved from the founding of Hermann in the 1800s, or the charming Hermann School Museum. You’ll likely notice the beautiful Hermann City Cemetery, a historic landmark situated on a rolling hill that overlooks the main streets; it’s notable as the site where Hermann’s founder, George Bayer, rests.

WHERE TO EAT

Concert Hall& Barrel Tavern

Stomp'n Grounds

No matter what you’re craving, Hermann has you covered from morning to night with food options. For breakfast, you can’t beat Stomp’n Grounds, with its full menu of sweet and savory breakfast items, including a killer breakfast burrito. The coffee shop prides itself on sourcing ingredients from all over Missouri, including many from the STL area. To feel like part of the crowd, eat at Downtown Deli & Custard Shoppe for lunch; you’ll soon realize it’s a favorite of locals, who weave in and out of tables to chat and catch up. Despite its low-key atmosphere, the shop serves some of the best sandwiches in town; finish strong with a scoop of its outstanding custard-style ice cream, or come back later for a mid-afternoon treat. When dinnertime rolls around, Tin Mill has everything from spaetzle to salmon, but always start with the Bavarian pretzels and bier cheese. For something more casual, 4th Street Pizza slings pies to eat in or take it back to your cottage or cabin. For classic tavern fare, Concert Hall & Barrel Tavern has burgers, pizza and wings, plus some classic German wurst specials. In the mood for a cocktail? On Friday and Saturday, head to Evergreen for inventive cocktails in an intimate, modern setting, or head to Hermann 1837 Cellar Bar for live music in a Victorian-era historic building with a patio that’s unmatched. Like Evergreen, it’s open Friday and Saturday year-round, but it stays open seven nights a week from May through October.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY SHANNON WEBER Hermann Cottages treehouse
Downtown Deli & Custard Shoppe
The streets of Hermann Antiqueshop

Weekend

Getaway Shawnee National forest

An Outdoor Lover’s Paradise

Shawnee National Forest in Illinois is a true treasure that’s only two hours away from St. Louis. Full of beautiful foliage, secluded swimming spots and scenic vistas, it’s a must-visit for any nature enthusiast.

Distance from STL: 2 hours

Best known for: HIKING, CAMPING AND CLIMBING

Type of eats: international cuisine

WHERE TO EAT

IF YOU’RE STAYING IN MARION …

Before you hit the trail, grab a hearty breakfast at The Vault Café on the Square. Located in a historic former bank, this charming down-home spot offers classics like waffles, omelets and eggs Benedict. For dinner, head to Baan Thai, a local favorite. Don’t miss the Nam Tok Beef, made with fish sauce, lime juice, cucumber, cilantro and green onions. The roasted duck curry, a red curry with coconut, bell peppers, grape tomatoes and basil, is another standout.

IF YOU’RE STAYING IN CARBONDALE …

CARBONDALE FARMERS’ MARKET

From April to November, rain or shine, Carbondale’s farmers and makers gather to share their abundant goodies. Visit to stock up on fruit to fuel you on the trail, or grab some artisanal bread and jam to elevate your standard PB&J. Can’t-miss vendors include Glaciers End, Countrysprout Organics, Bake Me Happy and Flo-Dough Sourdough Bread. The market is open from 8 a.m. to noon. Visit farmersmarketcarbondale.com for more details.

WHERE TO STAY

Shawnee has multiple hikes and attractions that are spread out, so it makes sense to pick a home base and do day trips around the area. Marion and Carbondale are both central locations with plenty of amenities. If you’re looking to camp, head to Jackson Falls; it’s free, and there are plenty of sites, even during the busy summer season. Pine Ridge Campground near Pounds Hollow Lake charges a fee but has more infrastructure, with electric hookups, grills and picnic tables.

Quatro's DeepPan Pizza

After a busy day of outdoor activities, fuel up with cheesy pies from Quatro’s Deep Pan Pizza. Build your own pizza, or order classics like the Meateater Bonanza or Buffalo Chicken. If you’re not feeling pizza, Quatro’s also offers meatball subs and Philly cheesesteaks. If your standard lunch while hiking is granola bars and trail mix, you might be craving some veggies for dinner. If that’s the case, head to Aban Kitchen, a Mediterranean spot. It offers falafel, baba ghanoush, chicken and lamb kabobs and more.

WHAT TO DO

The most iconic hike in Shawnee is at Garden of the Gods. The easy, 1.5-mile, round-trip hike offers stunning vistas and fascinating rock formations. For a longer hike, choose the Little Grand Canyon Trail, a 3.4-mile loop that allows dogs (as long as they’re leashed). At Jackson Falls, you’ll find a 4.2-mile loop with a gorgeous, close-up view of the waterfall.

On a hot summer day, after miles of hiking, nothing beats a relaxing dip in a lake or swimming hole. Pounds Hollow Lake is a hidden gem with a lovely beach. A local secret is Kinkaid Spillway: The multi-level cascading water feature is a perfect place to picnic and splash around. It can be slippery, so be sure to wear water shoes or sandals.

Jackson Falls is home to the largest number of climbing routes in Illinois. Here, sport climbers will find a variety of routes, from slab to overhung. If you’re new to outdoor climbing, the 5.6 Big Wall Greg’s Chicken Shack is a classic climb. More advanced climbers should not miss the 5.11a Wild at Heart. For more information on rock climbing here, purchase the guidebook “Jackson Falls: A Guide to Southern Illinois’ Best Kept Secret” by Yusuf Daneshyar.

24 feastmagazine.com / april 2023
The Vault Café The Garden of the Gods bluffs at Shawnee National Forest Getty Image PHOTO BY CHARLOTTE RENNERPHOTO COURTESY OF CARBONDALE FARMERS' MARKET WalkwayatShawneeNationalGettyForest Image Photocourtesyof TheVault Café Photocourtesyof Quatro'sDeepPanPizza

Springfield, Il Weekend Getaway

A History Buff’s Dream Destination

An hour and a half away from St. Louis sits Springfield, Illinois – the state’s capital city. Full of historical whimsy, Springfield is the perfect destination for a quiet, enlightening weekend away from St. Louis’ hustle and bustle.

WHERE TO EAT

DOWNTOWN

Stick around downtown Springfield and grab a cup of coffee at microroastery and bakery Custom Cup. For local craft beer, head to Anvil & Forge Brewing & Distilling. It has something for everyone, from the sour fruited ale (Hi)biscus, I’m Very Cherry to the nitro extra stout Pluto is a Planet. Drive just a couple of minutes to get to Taqueria Moroleon, a vibrantly decorated restaurant that serves a range of Mexican specialties.

ROUTE 66

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. The Cozy Dog Drive In still serves up its claim-to-fame dish – a hot dog that’s dipped in batter and deep-fried – after 77 years. And don’t miss The Chili Parlor, which hasn’t changed its popular chili recipe since 1945. These two Route 66 classics are worth a stop for a slice of history you can taste.

WHAT IS THE HORSESHOE?

The “horseshoe” is a dish that makes an appearance on many of the restaurant menus in Springfield. It consists of two slices of Texas toast topped with your choice of meat, a heaping pile of French fries and a homemade cheese sauce. The recipe dates back to 1928 when Joe and Elizabeth Schweska created it for the Leland Hotel restaurant, where Joe was head chef. Although the hotel has since closed, you can find traditional horseshoes at D’arcy’s Pint, Maid-Rite and Ritz’s Lil Fryer.

Distance from STL: 1.5 hours

Best known for: historic sites and museums

Type of eats: Classic diner dishes with Midwestern flair

WHAT TO DO

DOWNTOWN

The amount of historical activities in Springfield seems limitless, and you can explore many of them within just a few blocks of the downtown area. Start your day off with a walk around the regal Illinois State Capitol, which is free and open to the public. If you plan ahead, you can even schedule a guided tour; visit ilsos.gov for more info. Next, walk a few blocks south to the Illinois State Museum. The natural and cultural history museum’s permanent exhibition, “Changes: Dynamic Illinois Environments,” takes you through 500 million years of Illinois’ environmental history with interactive displays, life-size dioramas of extinct species and thousands of fossils. Last but certainly not least, head over to the Lincoln Home National Historic Site for a tour of Abraham Lincoln’s period-furnished, Greek Revival home.

ROUTE 66

Route 66 cuts straight through Springfield, and this town loves to celebrate the historic road. Visitors can see the famous Illinois Brick Road, a 1.4-mile section of restored hand-laid brick that was a part of the original Route 66; the Ace Sign Co. Sign Museum, which shows off more than 85 iconic signs from Route 66 and Springfield; and Mahan’s Filling Station, where you can get a photo-op at one of the country’s earliest gas stations. On Friday and Saturday nights, drive down to the Route 66 Drive In Theater and catch the latest blockbuster on the big screen, along with classic movie theater eats that you can order from your phone.

Make your trip extra worthwhile by planning it around one of Springfield’s annual festivals and events. Attend the Illinois State Fair from Aug. 10 to 20 to experience a carnival, live entertainment, competitions and more. If you can’t get enough of Route 66, schedule your trip for Sept. 22 to 24 to catch the Route 66 Mother Road Festival. If you’re a crafter, drive up the weekend of May 20 and 21 for the Old Capitol Art Fair. And on select Saturday mornings all year, shop locally at the Old Capitol Farmers Market.

PhotocourtesyIllinoisStateMuseum

Custom Cup Anvil& Forge Brewing& Distilling Photo courtesy Custom Cup

The Restaurant That’s Saving a Town

1929 Pizza & Wine paves the way for a downtown’s reinvention.

If you drive over the McKinley Bridge to Illinois and take a walk around the downtown district of Wood River, you’ll see the scattered remnants of what was once a bustling town. Historic buildings that previously housed mom-and-pop shops are falling into disrepair. Ferguson Avenue, its main street, was busy a mere decade ago, but is almost empty today; a well-known local shoe store, Cleary’s, is one of the few surviving businesses. But the residents of Wood River will not let their historic downtown simply disappear. Instead, they cling to a bright beacon of hope: 1929 Pizza & Wine.

Matt and Amy Herren opened 1929 Pizza & Wine in Wood River in late 2022. The restaurant is a product of their life experiences and collaborative efforts with locals. Matt and Amy – who also founded 222 Artisan Bakery and Goshen Coffee, and Fond and Township Grocer, respectively – had been traveling for years, and they were looking to come home to the St. Louis metro area. In February 2022, they were looking for a space to house a wholesale bagel operation. They met with Brad Wells, Wood River’s chief of police and the head of the local zoning commission. Wells’ primary rule for new businesses is that they can’t just use the town’s buildings as warehouses or for

production: They have to offer something directly to customers. “Wells said, ‘I will require you to have a retail front. If we’re going to save our downtown, it has to have an active retail [operation]. It has to drive people here,’” Amy Herren says. Wells offered them a deal: Take this burned-down building, turn it into a restaurant and we’ll find you a home for your bagel shop.

With the help of local developer Tom DeClue III, the Herrens and the town turned the derelict, burnt ruins into a thriving restaurant. Walk into 1929 Pizza & Wine today, and you’ll be greeted by an open, airy space with high ceilings and plenty of windows and natural light. You’ll see shelves upon shelves of wine bottles, large communal dining tables, aged Campari posters and a massive wood-operated pizza oven emblazoned with “il cibo è amore,” Italian for “food is love.”

27 april 2023 / feastmagazine.com BEFORE
AFTER
STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARY ANDINO AND SHANNON WEBER

The menu is brief, but every item on it is crafted with care. Matt Herren, whose background is in baking, handles the bread and the pizza dough, while Amy Herren embellishes this perfectly executed dough with an array of fresh produce, handmade mozzarella and other high-quality ingredients. She also makes the Italian sausage in-house. The menu reflects the lessons the Herrens have learned from their past ventures. “[At Fond], it was very limited; I had five apps, five entrées,” Amy Herren says. She would change the menu daily. “Here, they’re gonna order the same pizza every single time because they found the menu [item] that speaks to them. And that’s okay … Before, I would’ve changed the menu every week, whereas now, it’s way smarter.”

The pizza options are proof of the Herrens’ approach to operating in a small town that hasn’t been home to a restaurant like 1929 before now; they seek to strike a balance between approachability and adventure. There are the classics – the pepperoni and the sausage and peppers – and the more experimental pizzas, like the Greens: walnut pesto, wilted kale, Parmesan, red pepper flakes, lemon, olive oil and toasted walnuts.

Opening a restaurant with delicious pizzas is not enough to help regrow a struggling economy, and the Herrens know this. Before tips, all of their employees earn at least $16 an hour. “All these kids work for us because we’re living-wage accredited; they’re averaging $40 an hour,” Matt Herren says. “It’s not awesome; it’s appropriate. For the work that we’re

doing, for being on your feet, for all the hard work we do, you should be paid appropriately.” The couple views the act of providing a living wage as not only a moral imperative but also as an economic engine for Wood River. “If you’re trying to revitalize, you can’t just revitalize from the top. You have to take the people who live here and provide them with a living, so they can spend money in these places you want,” Amy Herren adds.

Although the restaurant has become a popular dinner spot for Wood River residents, it also brings outside visitors to town. Matt Herren estimates that nearly 65 percent of their customers come from Edwardsville and other parts of Illinois; they regularly also attract diners from St. Louis – and other businesses and restaurateurs are taking notice of this traffic.

“We’re getting these inquiries now that we had not gotten in a very long time … Even from some of the other towns that say, ‘Hey, what buildings do you have available?’” Wells says. It’s clear to see that 1929 has been a successful public litmus test proving to other entrepreneurs that Wood River is a town worth investing in.

Wells dreams of Wood River’s downtown someday resembling a quainter version of the Delmar Loop: walkable, bustling with people and full of local businesses, eateries and shops. And the whole town is working together to make this vision a reality. Whether it’s changing outdated zoning laws that impede

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renovations or ensuring a dedicated bike trail runs through downtown to attract cyclists, locals and city officials are opening the doors of opportunity. “The city has always been upfront and really honest and really easy to work with,” Amy Herren says. “It’s been an amazing experience.”

1929 will not be the Herrens’ only contribution to Wood River’s local economy. C & B Boiled Bagels, their wholesale-focused bagel business (with a retail storefront), is set to open in early April. As Matt Herren will happily tell you, “We don’t want Wood River to become the Matt and Amy show; that’s not our thing … We’re 50 years old; that’s not our focus. Our focus is how we start bringing people back together and communicating.” As experienced business owners, they have brainstormed concepts and financial plans that they would love to share with first-time restaurant owners. “We’re just looking for good operators,” Amy Herren says. “We would just literally hand them the road map. I don’t want anything for it … We’ll help you keep the bumpers on.”

Within the next two years, town officials hope for six to 10 other small businesses to open their doors in Wood River. The town in recent years has been called “Hood River.” The Herrens, their employees and the town itself are on a mission to change its moniker to a term Amy Herren coined: “Good River.”

The town’s greatest resource is its passionate, caring and thoughtful people; the Herrens agree that with this resource in abundance, there’s no limit to what Wood River can become.

1929 Pizza & Wine, 7 N. Wood River Ave., Wood River, Illinois, 618-216-2258, 1929pizzaandwine.com

Here, they’re gonna order the same pizza every single time because they found the menu [item] that speaks to them.”
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– AMY HERREN

HoSu

WRITTENBYMARYANDINO | PHOTOSBYCHARLOTTERENNER

Big Muddy Adventures combines the great outdoors with chef-driven campfire cooking.

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR ONE OF ST. LOUIS’ BRIGHTEST RISING CULINARY STARS, YOU’LL HAVE TO SEARCH BEYOND LOCAL RESTAURANTS AND BARS. YOU’LL HAVE TO VENTURE TO THE BANKS OF THE MISSOURI AND MISSISSIPPI RIVERS – OR BETTER YET, BOOK A TRIP WITH BIG MUDDY ADVENTURES. FIONA FORDYCE, THE OUTDOOR COMPANY’S HEAD CHEF, IS ELEVATING CAMPFIRE COOKING TO NEW HEIGHTS. TO SEE FORDYCE AND THE REST OF THE CREW IN ACTION, WE JOINED BMA ON AN OVERNIGHT FALL FOLIAGE CANOE TRIP IN EARLY NOVEMBER 2022.

After meeting up at the warehouse, packing our dry bags and getting a safety overview, we pile into vans and make the drive out to Hermann, Missouri. It’s there that I get my first taste of Fordyce’s cooking in the form of chicken salad sandwiches that she made earlier for lunch. The croissant is toasted and crackly, the chicken is tender, the mayo is light, and a touch of red onion adds just the right amount of acidity. The real difference-maker, as Fordyce will tell you, is loads of fresh dill. Even the other guides – Mark Malkowicz and Mike Clark (or “Malko” and “Muddy Mike,” as they’re called) – can’t get enough of it, and they’ve eaten it more times than they can count.

Once we’ve had our fill of persimmons and chicken salad, we load into the canoes and set off on the Missouri River. The sun is shining and the river is calm; Muddy Mike compares it to a giant lake to reassure any nervous guests. Our group of 13 paddles the two canoes for a few hours, all the while taking in plenty of bald eagle sightings and spectacular fall foliage. We stop at a small island – our camp destination for the night. By the time we finish setting up our tents and head back to the center of camp, Fordyce has already set a full charcuterie spread out, complete with artfully arranged cheeses, meats and crackers. The real standout appetizer is the guacamole, which mirrors the tableside guacamole service at a Mexican restaurant. Fordyce has a massive Tupperware container filled with peeled and pitted avocados, lime juice, salt and red onion; she mashes everything to a smooth texture right in front of us. As a fire crackles a stone’s throw away from the river, and we sit on the sand eating fresh guacamole, it’s clear that what BMA is offering is more than just a paddle down the river.

I talk with Fordyce as we engage in another BMA tradition: beach bocce ball. She’s humble and approachable – never one to brag about her cooking skills – which is all the more impressive when you consider she’s never had any formal culinary training or worked in a restaurant. Fordyce initially wanted to be a scientist and chose to study public health. She grew up on the river; her father, Wesley Fordyce, owned a large piece of land on the Missouri River and took her and her siblings out on canoes every chance he had. As she finished her studies, her looming career path began to feel out of step with her goals, so she came back to her first home: the river.

She’s worked for BMA for nine years now and is the innovator behind its multifaceted food program. In addition to designing and prepping food for day and overnight trips, she developed the Rivertime Supper Club, for which guests meet in the afternoon and paddle for a few hours before Fordyce crafts an unforgettable meal to be eaten on the shore by firelight. “She’s cooking dinner on open fire right there,” Muddy Mike says. “The Rivertime Supper Club sells out every time. It’s a hard ticket to get.”

The dinner Fordyce serves on this particular night perhaps best encapsulates both her philosophy of using local ingredients and the magic of her dinner theater. The farro risotto, with chestnuts and oyster mushrooms she foraged from her father’s land, is creamy and nutty with an earthy lightness that makes you want to rush for another scoop. Before the trip, Fordyce sous-vides pork chops with lemon and herbs – a technique that allows her to fully cook the pork chops and house them in a cooler to grill over the fire later. Although easier and faster in terms of preparation,

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the cooking method doesn’t sacrifice any of the primal satisfaction of seeing meat grilled on open flame. Fordyce and Malko get a cast iron grill pan rip-roaring hot before laying down the pork chops. The fire flares when some grease drips off the pan, and the scent of grilled meat instantly fills the air. Like with the farro risotto, Fordyce tries to source all of her meat locally and often visits BEAST Butcher & Block in The Grove for provisions. The finished pork chop – a notoriously dry meat – is wonderfully moist, yet crispy from its time on the fire. Fordyce serves it with a warm apple chutney made with Fuji apples, coriander, fennel, mustard, fenugreek and curry powder. The final element of the meal is a salad that is anything but an afterthought. This is Fordyce’s riff on Union Loafer’s famous Little Gem Salad: Bibb lettuce, chives, dill, parsley and panko breadcrumbs tossed in a buttermilk, sour cream, shallot and lemon juice dressing. If you put Fordyce’s creation alongside the Union Loafer’s standout, you’d have a hard time identifying the original. “People don’t expect to have gourmet dinners on the river,” she says. “People are always really pleasantly surprised.”

Obviously, Fordyce serves delicious food on these trips, but her real ingenuity lies in how she prepares it. Because she cannot attend every trip BMA plans, she preps the food in such a way that any guide – even those who lack culinary skills – can successfully serve the food to guests. From using the

sous-vide method for meat to cooking grains and packaging sandwiches ahead of time, guides don’t have to spend additional time or energy chopping, stirring or prepping. They can easily finish the last few steps of the cooking process as they focus on ensuring guests have a safe, enjoyable time.

After dinner, we gather in a circle around the campfire to learn more about each other and the guides. Although BMA does offer private trips, part of the fun of this trip is meeting, joking and connecting with people I never would have met otherwise. We hear wild stories and tales of adventure from Muddy Mike – all of them off the record, which he repeatedly confirms with me as he speaks, pausing to throw a meaningful look in my direction. Those of us who gravitate toward the great outdoors have plenty of fun stories to share as well, and each member of BMA’s staff is funny, generous and personable. As I sip on the Hot Toddies Fordyce crafted for us, I feel connected to the outdoors and the wholesome community of people who make a trip like this so worthwhile.

After we pack up our tents the next morning, we’re met with heavy rain. This is a mild discouragement, but luckily, during a brief pause in the downpour, Fordyce manages to serve up one heck of a breakfast: eggs, bacon, hash browns, coffee, smoked salmon and fresh fruit. The guides break down the rest of the camp and pack everything into the canoes, and we

head back out on the river for a few final hours of paddling. Despite the return of the rain, we’re all in high spirits while taking in the views as Malko and Muddy Mike feed the positive energy by telling stories and sharing facts about different things we encounter on the river.

As we reach our destination, I’m struck by how many types of people would enjoy Big Muddy Adventures’ approach to the outdoors. Even those who have never camped or paddled would still have a great time: The paddling is physical but not back-breaking, and they provide all the equipment you’d need. An avid outdoors person would feel equally satisfied.

Do note that this is not glamping: You’re camping in a remote area near the Missouri River without a building or other group in sight. This is not simply a paddle, either; it’s an experience. Behind the scenes, Fordyce is whipping up locally sourced food enhanced by the beauty of the outdoor setting it’s served in. Nowhere else in St. Louis can you find this intersection of elevated culinary experience and gorgeous outdoor recreation. Through innovation and creativity, Fordyce and BMA have created something truly special that will hopefully endure for years to come.

Big Muddy Adventures, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-896-4264, 2muddy.com

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PEOPLE DON'T EXPECT TO HAVE GOURMET DINNERS ON THE RIVER. PEOPLE ARE ALWAYS REALLY PLEASANTLY SURPRISED.
Fiona Fordyce
35 feastmagazine.com / april 2023 BUYTICKETSTODAY STLtoday.com/ourevents SUPPORTEDBY APRIL13

10.125”WIDEX11.25”TALL

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10.875”WIDEX12”TALL

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