starters, sides & sweets
pork paradise
game day at mizzou
SOUTHERN ACCENTS
CIRCLE B RANCH
TIGER TAILGATE
Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest
HOg wILd, SOUTHERN STYLE
feastmagazine.com | OCTOBER 2015
FOR THE QUESTION, “WHICH ONE?”
TOTAL WINE HAS 14,000 ANSWERS. COMING SOON:
BRENTWOOD
ter Rd. 133888877 MannchhOes63 Bal lwin, M 011
C on su mer ed ucat ion cla ss es
Wiine ne,, Sp irit s and Be B er Tas T tings eve
Largest se lectition off bbeers undder
8,000 WINES • 3,000 SPIRITS • 2,500 BEERS 2
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
ry wee ken d.
one roof
TotalWine.com
ory Bancroft - Delaware North Sportservice at Edward Jones Dome Chef Brandon Benack - T th Chef Gil berto Espinosa - Gamlin Whisk R Holtgrave - Old Warson Country Club Chef Larry Johnson - Delaware North Sportservice at Busch Stadium Chef Tamara T Keefe eefe - Clementine’s CreameryChef Melissa Lee - The Ritz-Carlton Carlton St. Louis Chef Rich LoRusso LoR - LoRusso’s usso’s Cucina Chef Joe Mueller - The Rac R eacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. Chef William Ortmann - Cardinals Nation Chef John Perkins - Juniper Chef Ben Poremba - Elaia Chef Lou R ’s Chef Armando Salazar - Oceano Bistro Chef P Chef Rory Bancroft - Delaware North Sportservice at Edward Jones Dome Chef Brandon Benack - T th Chef Gil berto Espinosa sa - Gamlin Whiskey ey House Chef Dominic Galati - Dominic’s RRestaurant Chef Rex Hale - The Restaurant at the Cheshire Chef V odka Bar Chef Dan odk Holtgrave - Old Warson arson Coun try Club Chef Larry Johnson - Delaware North Nor Sportse Sportservice at Busch Stadium Chef Tamara Keefe - Clementine’s CreameryChef Melissa sa Lee - The Ritz-Carlton St. Louis Chef Rich LoRusso - LoRusso’s Cucina talented ueller - The RRacquet Club Ladue Chef Kevin Nashan - Sidney Street Cafe / The Peacemaker Lobster Lob & Crab Co. Chef William Ortmann Or - Cardinals Nation Chef John Perkins P - Juniper Chef ef Ben PPoremba - Elaia Chef Lou Rook III - Annie Anni Gun Gunn’s’s Chef Armando Salazar - Oceano Bistro Chef Patrick atrick Viehmann - J. Buck’s Restaurant Chef Chris Vormund- Herbie’s Vintage 72 Chef Thank you to our talented chefs and generous sponsors and guests! Rich LoRusso - LoRusso’s Cucina Chef Joe Mueller - The Racquet Club Ladue Chef Kevin The March of Dimes 2015 Signature Chefs Auction raised more Nashan -than Sidney$385,000 Street Cafeto / The Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. Chef William Ortmann benefit Missouri babies and families! - Cardinals Nation Chef John Perkins Juniper Chef Ben 2016: Poremba - Chef Rex Hale - The SAVE THE- DATE FOR Restaurant at the Cheshire Chef Vu15th Hoang at - Subthe ZeroRitz-Carlton Vodka Bar Chef Dan Holtgrave September - Old Warson arson Country Club Chef Kevin Nashan - Sidney Street Cafe / The PPeacemaker -
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
3
Party o of the Dead! October 31, 2015
OUTSIDE: Monster Bash in The Grove!
Live DJ!
Drink Specials with wristband!
INSIDE: 4-Course Prix Fixe Menu with drink pairings!* Cocktails by Jack-O-Lantern!
* Regular menu also available.
314.535.9700 · SanctuariaSTL.com 4198 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, MO · 4
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
Best Steakhouse & Romantic Restaurant
INDULGE IN CITY LIVING
Come savor the city at 1904 Steak House. Enjoy a mouthwatering selection of prime, dry-aged steak, delicious seafood dishes and over 120 varieties of wine from around the world. Add in stunning Victorian-era architecture and you’ll discover there’s no better place to experience the art of fine dining.
888.578.7289 | rivercity.com
©2015 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 5 OCTOBER 2015
Inspired Local Food Culture
FROM THE FIRST SIP TO THE LAST BITE BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE
BEER-HOLDER
NOTHING SAYS FALL LIKE A PINT OF PUMPKIN ALE, OKTOBERFEST OR OTHER SEASONAL BEERS. TAKE ONE DOWN AND PASS IT AROUND AT THE PLACE WHERE GOOD TIMES ARE ALWAYS ON TAP.
THE FINAL WORD ON FINE DINING
Dis c ove r da zzling f l avors that ’ ll le ave you sp e e chle s s w ith an inc re dible c a s t of the fine s t s te aks and chops, s ucc ule nt s e afo o d, and s o much more.
HOLLY W OODC ASINOS T LOUIS.COM
H
8 8 8 - S T L- G A M E
H
3 1 4 -7 7 O - 8 1OO
Must be 21. Gambling problem? In Missouri, call 1-888-BETS-OFF or visit 888betsoff.org. 6
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest
OCTOBER 2015 FroM the staFF |9|
Meet OUr CONtrIBUtOrS
| 10 |
frOM the PUBLISher
Southern accents.
| 12 |
dIgItaL CONteNt
What’s online this month.
| 14 |
feaSt tv
A peek at the October episode.
| 17 |
FEATURES
DINe This month we visit four restaurants, including a new Italian-inspired spot in the St. Louis area and a restaurant in Kansas City focused on elevated Southern comfort food. In our monthly travel piece, Road Trip, writer Amy Lynch travels to Galena, Illinois, and shares where to dine, drink and stay this month during the city’s annual Oktoberfest festivities. We also talk to three chefs to learn how they’re cooking with pepitas this autumn.
| 29 |
DrINK This month we’re sipping speakeasy-inspired cocktails in Lee’s Summit and wines from around the world in the St. Louis area. We also travel to Dunn’s Cider Mill in Belton, Missouri, and catch up with the owners of newly opened Wild Sun Winery in Hillsboro, Missouri.
| 43 |
shoP We visit two regional shops this month – a candy store in the St. Louis area, and, amid apple and pumpkin picking season, a farm and country store in Weston, Missouri. We also catch up with Martin Casas, founder of the St. Louis Swap Meet, to learn what shoppers should look forward to this holiday season.
62 66 | 51 |
CooK | 52 | Seed tO taBLe Farmer Crystal Stevens shares how to make fall-perfect soup with three types of squash.
76
| 54 | MyStery ShOPPer Buy it and try it: beet sugar syrup.
| 56 | MeNU OPtIONS Take advantage of coho salmon season with pan-fried salmon with wild mushrooms and corn.
85
| 58 | Sweet IdeaS Pastry chef Christy Augustin warms up with poached apples with hot buttered rum sauce.
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY OF HOGS AT CIRCLE B RANCH (P. 76) AND TABLE OF CONTENTS PHOTO OF COLLARD GREENS AND WILEY THE CHICKEN BY Jennifer Silverberg
90
battLe oF the CorNbreaDs Pastry chef Simone Faure digs into a culinary controversy: Northern vs. Southern cornbread, and which is correct.
CatCh the tIgers by the taILgate Chef John Perkins dishes out Southern-inspired food-and-drink recipes for fueling your next tailgate.
hog heaveN Circle B Ranch offers flavorful pasture-raised pork and a little slice of porcine paradise in southern Missouri.
behIND the wheeL Nearly 200 years old, Britain Mill is once again grinding up cornmeal and grits thanks to one dedicated couple.
best oF the rest From pimento cheese and collard greens to hoppin’ john and lemon chess pie, these eight recipes celebrate the snacks, sides and sweets that accompany traditional Southern suppers.
I WIsh I KneW...
Magazine
fall harvest sweet and savory dishes
Written by Macy Salama
sweet potato mash Though sweet potatoes are found year round, fall is when the crop comes in at its freshest. Sweet potatoes are a superfood packed with nutrition. Simply mash up sweet potatoes, top them with brown butter and sprinkle some pan-fried sage on top for added flavor and a pop of color. balsamic-glazed squash Another seasonal favorite is squash. For a creative side dish, make balsamic-glazed squash, by cutting your squash into wedges and roasting. Then caramelize balsamic vinegar and honey to create a sweet-tart glaze for your roasted squash.
spinach salad with goat cheese and walnuts Walnuts and goat
cheese add hearty fall flavor to a classic spinach salad. Add a light vinaigrette or walnut oil as a dressing and serve.
cauliflower Diced into chunks or pureed smooth, cauliflower can be used to thicken soups or in creative side dishes such as cauliflower mash (a spin on mashed potatoes) or even as an entrée with cauliflower “steak.” Or, use this in-season ingredient to make a savory and satisfying cauliflower-squash gratin. smoky roasted wild mushrooms
This side dish or snack couldn’t be easier to make: Simply roast wild mushrooms until they are tender, then toss with garlic and smoked paprika and serve.
blue cheese and pears When pears are in season, they don’t need much
combined with them to shine. Slice them into wedges, top with soft blue cheese and a few drops of honey, and you’ve got a quick and festive snack or dessert.
baked stuffed apples Make use of this
year’s apple-picking haul with baked stuffed apples. Scoop out the insides of apples, take care to preserve the apple shells, then fill with a mixture of oats, brown sugar, cinnamon and ginger.
warm apples and ice cream Cook sliced apples down in butter and add a little brown sugar and cinnamon for a warm, sweet treat. Finish off this seasonal dessert with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. glazed figs Fresh figs are a under-utilized seasonal treat. This season, cook figs with red wine and brown sugar for a warming dessert. apple cider Nothing says fall like a cup of hot apple cider. Combine apple cider, cinnamon and nutmeg (and a little rum, if you like) over heat, stir and serve.
9811 S. 40 Drive, St. Louis, MO 63124 310 Ward Parkway, Kansas City, MO 64112 St. Louis: 314-587-2433 KC: 816-627-0100 Check out our upcoming public cooking classes at lecole.edu
Volume 6
| Issue 10 | October 2015
Vice President of Niche Publishing Publisher Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com Director of Sales Angie Henshaw ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 EDITORIAL Senior Editor Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing Editor Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com Associate Editor Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com Digital Editor Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor Mabel Suen Editorial Intern Macy Salama Proofreader Christine Wilmes Contributing Writers Christy Augustin, Ettie Berneking, Ren Bishop, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Simone Faure, Kyle Harsha, Hilary Hedges, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Laura Laiben, Amy Lynch, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, John Perkins, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Crystal Stevens, Andrew Mark Veety, Shannon Weber ART Art Director Alexandrea Doyle, adoyle@feastmagazine.com Production Designer Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers Judd Demaline, Travis Duncan, Hannah Foldy, Jonathan Gayman, Chris Mullins, Mark Neuenschwander, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Alistair Tutton, Landon Vonderschmidt, Cheryl Waller, Brad Zweerink FEAST TV
producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Judd Demaline of Graine Films
CONTACT US Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com DISTRIbUTION To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore for St. Louis at jmoore@stldist.com, Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com and Dirk Dunkle for Jefferson City and Columbia at dadunkle@columbiatribune.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2015 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC
8
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
ContrIbutors
10.15 brad zweerink Springfield, Missouri, Photographer Brad Zweerink is a Springfield, Missouri, native who got hooked on photography in high school and studied photojournalism at the University of Missouri. He has spent most of the past 15 years working as a newspaper photojournalist and photo editor in the San Francisco Bay Area, photographing everything from first day of school fashion to wildfires before fulfilling a dream of working for himself. His family and Missouri roots drew him back home earlier this year, along with his new wife, Christina, and since he has enjoyed barbecuing, playing his old drum set and hanging out with his nephews. Brad is still a photojournalist at heart and loves connecting to new people and using photography to explore how they live and work. Since he has been back, he has taken assignments across the state for a variety of advertising, commercial and editorial clients.
Plants Feed Us From soup to nuts (and everything in between), our classes offer you a chance to feed your love for food and discover the comforting power of plants.
simone faure St. Louis, Writer and co-owner, La Patisserie Chouquette Simone Faure is a New Orleans native and the pastry chef and co-owner of La Patisserie Chouquette. After moving to St. Louis in 2009 to head up the the pastry kitchen at The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis, Faure launched her line of whimsical desserts and cakes featuring fashion, pop art and sass. Her French-inspired desserts have donned the pages of magazines such as American Way , Better Homes and Gardens and Food Network Magazine. In 2014, Faure was named the top pastry professional in Missouri by Martha Stewart Weddings. This year, Faure was a finalist on Food Network’s Spring Baking Championship. She is mom to a feisty 4 year old, Maxime, and wife to a bread and cheese loving French chef, Damien.
landon vonderschmidt Kansas City, Photographer Landon Vonderschmidt, a Kansas City-based photographer, has a creative eye paired with hands-on experience. Specializing in the food industry, he’s had the pleasure of working with local restaurants and publications. He’s been the contributing photographer for the advertising campaign for Kansas City Restaurant Week for the past four years, a creative committee member for The Bloom Party, benefiting the Kansas City CARE Clinic and a lead photographer for the West 18th Street Fashion Show. In his spare time, Landon likes a chilled white wine spritzer, vacationing with friends, hitting up New York City and posting photos on Instagram.
ettie berneking Springfield, Missouri, Writer After growing up in the Kansas City area, writer and blogger Ettie Berneking moved to Springfield, Missouri, to discover the beauty of the Ozarks. From the latest restaurant openings to meeting the farmers who stock the markets and health food stores, Ettie gets to see the very best of what southwest Missouri has to offer. Her love of food began while watching her mom and grandmothers work in the kitchen, and it grew to become a passion after she started meeting the talented chefs, bakers, bartenders and restaurant owners who put their hearts and souls into the food they serve. When she’s not driving around the Ozarks, Ettie is in her own kitchen trying out new recipes or working in her small garden.
www.mobot.org/adultclasses The Power of Plants 4344 Shaw Blvd. • St. Louis, MO 63110 ( 3 1 4 ) 5 7 7- 5 1 0 0 • w w w . m o b o t . org
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
9
publisher’s letter
FeAst eVeNts
when we publish recipe-driven features, like Andrew Mark Veety’s Best of the Rest (p. 90), the Feast editors often gather at my home to spend the day cooking a variety of dishes for one of our photographers – in this case, the very talented Jennifer Silverberg – to style and shoot.
KC
Sat., Oct. 10, 5 to 7pm; Martin City Brewing Co.; kcpt.org
Enjoy a tasting of local brews, including Martin City’s new brew, 19, as well as small bites of some of the brewery’s most popular items. The event benefits KCPT, and each ticket also gets you a 1-year subscription to Feast.
stl
Cast your vote for the best chili recipe prepared by Whole Foods Market team members! All 10 of the store’s teams will compete to win $500, which will be donated to a local charity.
Until next time,
Feast TV taste & see Fri., Oct. 16, 7pm; Public Media Commons; ninenet.org
Watch Feast TV segments and enjoy presentations and samples from Southerninspired chefs and artisans featured on the show, including Juniper, Spirits of St. Louis, Grand River Spirits, La Patisserie Chouquette and more. il
big Muddy Monster brewfest Sat., Oct. 17, 1 to 4pm; Riverside Park, Murphysboro; Illinois; bigmuddymonsterbrewfest.com
The sixth annual beer festival features local and national breweries, live music and a homebrew competition. Participating breweries include Big Muddy Brewing, Scratch Brewing Co., Excel Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co., Boulevard Brewing Co. and more.
KC
We have one of those “shoot days” every few months. I always look forward to them, having everyone over to cook and talk. We’re working – typically cooking six to eight recipes – but we’re also enjoying each other’s company, which is what slow, Southern food is all about. My grandmother and her family were from North Carolina, and my Uncle Jimmy has the lovely, warm accent that comes from that part of the country. When we cooked the dishes in this story focused on starters, sweets and sides, I felt like I was connecting to a piece of my history. My grandmother was known as an incredible cook and there was a piece of me that felt she was there with us in the kitchen that day, making sure the black-eyed peas weren’t too soft, the collards weren’t too tough and that there was enough laughter to sustain us until it was time to eat.
Whole Foods Market 5th Annual Chili Cook-Off Sun., Oct. 11, 1 to 4pm; Whole Foods Market Town & Country; wholefoodsmarket.com
stl
This issue is loosely themed around Southern cuisine, which is rising in popularity Watch the October episode of Feast TV on PBS stations across the region (fried chicken and barbecue, to learn how to upgrade your next tailgate with St. Louis chef John Perkins of Juniper. Perkins penned Catch the Tigers by the Tailgate (p. 66) and anyone?), and Andrew’s piece developed a Southern-themed menu perfect for fall tailgates. captured the essence of what makes Southern food so deeply satisfying: time. Southern food is not quick. It takes a great deal of time to cook up Southern classics, and you should have seen my kitchen on the day of the shoot. Every pot and pan was in use as we simmered peanuts, stirred collard greens and spiced up hoppin’ john for Jennifer’s photos.
KCpt brew Debut
March of Dimes signature Chefs Auction Mon., Oct. 19, 6:30 to 9pm; Sheraton Crown Center – Grand Ballroom; signaturechefskc.com
Enjoy an evening of fine fare from some of Kansas City’s best chefs, including Debbie Gold, Ryan Brazeal and Jonathan Justus, as well as wine, spirits and custom-created auction packages. stl stl
schnucks Cooks: pan-Fried salmon with Wild Mushrooms and Corn Wed., Oct. 21, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; $40; schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704
Join us in the kitchen and learn how to make raw root vegetable salad, garlic-sautéed spinach, smashed potatoes, pan-fried salmon with shiitake mushrooms and corn and maple-apple upside-down cake. In this class you’ll learn how to perfectly pan-fry salmon so the outside is flaky and the inside is tender and creamy. You’ll also learn how to make seasonal upside-down cake. stl
slow Food st. louis’ Art of Food
Sat., Nov. 7, 6 to 10pm; The Luminary; $65 non-members or $55 members; slowfoodstl.org
Art of Food will showcase the area’s top restaurants, serving delectable hors d’oeuvres using as many fresh, local ingredients as possible, all prepared in the Slow Food tradition. Each chef will partner with a farmer and each tasting will feature a paired local beer, wine or cocktail sample (glass included).
Catherine Neville stl
Cat’s picks Wednesdays, 8:35am; The BIG 550 KTRS
Tune in as Feast publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area.
publisher@feastmagazine.com
10
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
@cat_neville
@cat_neville
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
11
DIGITAL CONTENT
hungry for more?
feastmagazine.com
connect with us daily:
The Feed: sTL
PHOTOGRAPHy by MAbeL SueN
REEDS AMERICAN TABLE: Chef Matt Daughaday’s long-awaited restaurant opened in Maplewood, Missouri, in September, serving dishes like bacon-fat fried cornbread, smoked beet salad and a pastrami Reuben.
Facebook. Keep up with food-and-drink events across the region (like the Nosh Pit at LouFest in St. Louis’ Forest Park) at facebook.com/feastmag.
TWITTeR. Follow @feastmag for behind-the-
scenes looks at upcoming stories (like our Mizzou tailgating feature with Juniper’s John Perkins).
PHOTOGRAPHy by JeNNiFeR SiLveRbeRG
PInTeResT. Find recipes for cooler weather (like this beef pho) on our Soups board at pinterest.com/feastmag.
PHOTOGRAPHy by APRiL FLeMiNG
HOWARD’S GROCERY, CAFE AND CATERING: Howard’s is now serving housemade sandwiches and burgers in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District. moRe on The Feed: Keep up with what’s happening in the region’s food-and-drink scene by visiting our daily updated news blog, The Feed, at feastmagazine.com/the-feed. We recently took a look at St. Louis’ brand-new Milque Toast bar and listed our favorite happy hour spots in St. Louis and Kansas City.
TasTe & see
sPecIaL gIVeaWaY: Win a pair of tickets to Southern-themed Feast TV Taste & See at the Public Media
Commons in St. Louis on Oct. 16. Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.
12
feastmagazine.com
O C T O B E R 2015
PHOTOGRAPHy by JORDyN GeHReT
The Feed: kc
InsTagRam. Hashtag your food-and-drink photos with #feastgram for a chance to see them in Feast! Details on p. 98.
Watch our videos and Feast TV.
youtube.com/FeastMagazine
October is International Turkish Cuisine Month Turkish/Mediterranean food is a cross between Southern European, Greek and Middle Eastern cuisines. Aya Sofia Restaurant and Wine Bar offers a large variety of cold and hot meze (small plates) that are intended to be shared and will complement any of our entrees,including delectable lamb, beef, chicken, and fresh seafood.
Lunch: Tues - Fri • Dinner: Tues - Sun • Sunday Brunch Happy Hour: Tues - Fri NIGHTLY DINNER SPECIALS AVAILABLE FOR PRIVATE PARTIES AND CATERING
Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine
Known for our meze (small plates) and excellent wine selection
$5 Off Purchase of $25 or More. Offer expires October 31, 2015 (Must present ad)
6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com
Get ` Hitched’ to a Red Neck or Die Interactive Comedy Murder Mystery
Ma and Pa Red Neck are invitin’ all the kinfolk for vittles after the Weddin’ rehearsal of their son Bubba and fiance, Billie Jean. Will Bubba, an undercover agent for the FBI, solve the case before he gets hitched or will it be a shotgun weddin’? Join Ma & Pa, Bubba and Billie Jean and get served up a heaping helping of our hospitality - Red Neck Style! Call for reservations today at 314-533-9830 Bring this in for $10 off per person Coupon valid through October 2015. Not valid for groups.
4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com
Living Word Christian School is hosting their 10th Annual Autumn Auction HArveSt Moon Friday, november 6, 2015 old Hickory Golf Club 5:30 - 10:00pm tickets $35 per person (includes sit-down dinner) lwcs.netgive.org to purchase tickets If you are interested in becoming a sponsor or making a donation go to lwcs.netgive.org or call 636-978-1680
1145 Tom Ginnever Ave • O’Fallon • 636.978.1680 • lwcs.us
Chicken Dinner Sundays Now Serving on Our Renovated 3rd Floor! 2015 Voted #1 BEST FRIED CHICKEN by St. Louis Post-Dispatch Critics & Readers
114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
13
FEAST TV
TV
Look for the Feast TV splat throughout the magazine. It tells you which articles are part of this month’s episode!
watch this month’s episode to:
Segment 1: Visit Circle B Ranch, where heritage breed hogs are humanely raised and slaughtered, and the resulting bacon, sausage, meatballs and charcuterie are raising the bar across the state.
Segment 2: Discover tailgating secrets from one of St. Louis’ favorite chefs, John Perkins of Juniper, at Mizzou.
Segment 3: Tour Britain Mill, a fully restored and operational 1840 grist mill that produces stone-ground grits and cornmeal.
In this month’s Catch the Tigers by the Tailgate feature on p. 66, chef John Perkins of Juniper in St. Louis shares travel-friendly, Southern-inspired recipes to help you host a rip-roaring tailgate – think pimento cheesebologna sandwiches, grilled potato salad, pork chops and red velvet whoopie pies.
Segment 4: Learn the beermaking process at Grain to Glass, a homebrew shop in Kansas City.
feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: Missouri Wines
WhoLe Foods Market
L’ écoLe cuLinaire
In October, reach for a bottle of Oak Glenn Winery’s White Port. Feast TV producer Catherine Neville pairs it with cornmeal-olive oil cake.
the raphaeL hoteL
Pick up recipes and ingredients from Feast TV at Brentwood and Town and Country locations of Whole Foods Market in the St. Louis area.
In St. Louis and Kansas City, L’École Culinaire offers high-quality culinary education.
The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.
WATCH FEAST ON THESE NETWORKS
Hand Crafted Coffees Importing Fine Coffees from 20 Countries • QUALITY • EXPERIENCE • SERVICE
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., Oct. 10 at 2pm and Mon., Oct. 12 at 1:30pm. Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.
Full Service Coffeehouse & Restaurant Supplier Fourth Generation Family Owned Coffee Roasters Since 1930
WWW.CHAUVINCOFFEE.COM
314-772-0700
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., Oct. 17 at 2:30pm.
You can watch Feast TV throughout midMissouri on KMOS (Channel 6) on Sat., Oct. 17 at 4pm and on Thu., Oct. 22 at 7:30pm.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) at 10am on Sat., Oct. 3.
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
15
I T TA K E S S TA D I U M S E AT I N G TO N E W H E I G H T S . From the scenic bluffs of our great river roads, to the dramatic vistas of our Ozark Mountains, Missouri’s scenery is on another level. And as one of “The 5 Best Places to See the Leaves Change Color This Fall,” it’s sure to take your breath away. Enjoy the view.
Plan your fall getaway at VisitMO.com
16
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
where we’re dining rise and dine on p. 20 photography by alistair tutton
trending now: specialty hot dogs
on trend
Written by macy salama PhotograPhy by mark neuenschWander
Restaurants and hot dog joints are introducing specialty hot dogs made with fun and creative ingredients. stl
sweet side
Florissant, Mo. classic hot dogs aren’t the only
options you’ll find at Dogs ‘n Frys in Florissant, missouri. the restaurant also has a sweeter side, with hot dogs in flavors such as s’mores – a special request hot dog topped with marshmallow cream, crumbled graham crackers and chocolate sauce – or a fried bun with a trio of ice cream scoops and Pb&J sauce. “We have our regular hot dog menu, but we also have a fusion menu,” says owner mo mangal. “it’s a fusion of flavors – hot, cold, sweet and savory – that is what we really try to do.” dessert hot dogs began as an accident when a bun fell into the fryer and came out tasting similar to a waffle cone. since then, they have become a signature treat at dogs ‘n Frys. along with 27 hot dog combinations – including hot ‘n’ spicy, which tops an all-beef hot dog with spicy queso blanco, sriracha, crushed crunchy Flamin’ hot cheetos and seared jalapeños drizzled in buffalo hot sauce – nearly all the combinations (including the sweet) can be served over hand-cut fries. Dogs ‘n Frys, 503 Paul Ave., Florissant, Missouri, 314.274.2000, facebook.com/dogsnfrys
dog t o h f e chili e d e s i all-b a r ter-b r o P y l l Bu slaw e s e e h c blue os jalapeñ
kc
new breed
oVerland parK, Ks. With hot dog names like
bulldog and dalmatian, the menu at New York Dawg Pound in overland Park, kansas, might sound familiar. owner Will brown begins the process of creating a new hot dog combination by picking a specific name or breed of dog for inspiration. “For our boston terrier you think of boston, so we put baked beans on there, and the chihuahua dog is mexicanstyle with pico de gallo, sour cream, guacamole and jalapeños on a tortilla,” he says. “there is no limit to what you can do with hot dogs.” the goofy dawg, for example, named for disney’s goofy character, is made with peanut butter and bacon. brown explains that as a child, he would combine those flavors into a sandwich, and they worked just as well on a hot dog. buns are baked fresh daily at bagel Works bread co. in kansas city. new york dawg Pound also has a vegetarian option: a roasted carrot is cooked in olive oil with a house seasoning blend and can be ordered with your choice of toppings. New York Dawg Pound, 7702 Shawnee Mission Parkway, Overland Park, Kansas, 913.432.6937, newyorkdawgpound.com
mo
unpredictable
Joplin, Mo. Jason miller describes his Joplin, missouri,
restaurant, Instant Karma Gourmet Hot Dogs, as a hot dog stand inside a French bistro. “hot dogs on china, with full service… people would have told me i was crazy if i told them what i was planning,” he says. miller’s creative approach to hot dogs includes using bison, elk, lamb, lobster, rattlesnake and kangaroo meats. With an unpredictable menu that varies based on what ingredients are available, miller says there’s always a line out the door. besides the initial laughs when scanning the menu, miller says customers have been open to trying his unusual flavor combinations. When he first introduced rattlesnake dogs – specifically, a rattlesnake and breadcrumb sausage with bell peppers and garlic – it sold out in a matter of days. other dogs are inspired by global fare, such as the mediterranean, which tops an all-beef hot dog with curry-seasoned chickpeas and mango chutney served on grilled pita bread. in addition to its creative flavors, instant karma also serves classic and vegetarian hot dogs. Instant Karma Gourmet Hot Dogs, 527 S. Main St., Joplin, Missouri, 417.206.3647
cheF’s tip “To figure out complementary ‘crazy’ ingredient combinations, think of your hot dog like a steak and ask yourself what sauces, sides and toppings would taste good with it.” –Jason Miller, owner, Instant Karma Gourmet Hot Dogs
all-beef hot dog curry-seaso ned chickpe as mango chut ney
bacon-wrapped hot dog avocado and sour cream 18
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
One On One
stl
colleen clawson
C &
U R R E Y C
O
M
P
A
N
Y
ambassador of culinary delight, milque toast bar Written by bethany christo
ST. LOUIS. colleen clawson (pictured left), co-owner and self-described
photography by judd demaline
“ambassador of culinary delight” for Milque Toast Bar, had been dreaming of what possibilities the restaurant’s space in McKinley heights held for quite some time. Partnering with “minister of keeping it real” rachel Moeller (pictured right) and “butter churner in residence” (and owner of Moonlight Farm near arnold, Missouri) amanda Geimer, clawson’s dreams became a reality last month, after a year of construction and setbacks, when the communityoriented, fast-casual milk and toast lunch joint opened for business. as its name suggests, the menu consists of simple to outlandish sweet and savory toast options, as well as a selection of dairy, nut and grain milks that can be flavored with rotating housemade syrups, as well as other beverages. but, more than just food and drink, clawson wants the space to be a spot for community outreach and support through a multipronged approach to fighting food insecurity in the neighborhood by offering daily “paywhat-you-can” meals, sourcing from community gardens and offering resources for where to find hot meals.
Wine, Dine & Shine.
Treat your guests to a kitchen party with pizzazz. You’ll find unique island fixtures, pendants and chandeliers at the Wilson Lighting Showrooms in Clayton and Overland Park.
S I N C E 19 7 5 CLAYTON, MO 909 S. Brentwood Blvd 314-222-6300 OVERLAND PARK, KS 10530 Marty 913-642-1500
WILSONLIGHTING.COM
L I G H T I N G
Tell us about your toast options. a piece of toast is a really great platform for just about anything. We have a variety of sweet and savory toasts, some classics and some far-out-there options. a super classic example is gravlax and cucumber, which is cured salmon and horseradish cream on rugbrød – a dark seeded rye – as well as a toast with mushroom and heartland creamery goat cheese with truffle oil and herbs. on the sweet end, we have a s’mores toast with nutella and bruléed marshmallows, and a Milque toast slow-cooker fluffy vanilla bread pudding using brioche that you can add syrup or whipped cream to. on brunch on saturdays and sundays we have smørrebrød, which is a classic scandinavian dish of rye bread and toppings. you can order a single toast a la carte, or you can order a chef’s choice platter of three with one side or five with two sides. Describe the milk options. We [serve] housemade nut milks including peanut, cashew, coconut, Missouri black walnut and Missouri pecan. each day there will be three rotating milk options – one nut, one dairy and one grain milk such as oat or rice milk. another beverage we’re really excited about is Jamaica (pronounced ha-maicah) that’s a spiced, iced hibiscus tea. We also have housemade syrups that you can put into milk or fizzy water because people love chocolate milk, people love strawberry milk, plus flavors like ginger-chai, lemon verbena or mint-oreo. Where do you source ingredients? For bread, we’re sourcing local as much as we can, including red Fox bakery, bridge bread, black bear bakery, companion and more. We have dedicated toasters for gluten-free bread, like sweet potato bread, so we don’t cross-contaminate. We source as much as we can from amanda [Geimer]’s farm, including tomatoes and amazing watercress. i started my first straw-bale garden in the backyard – which used to be an 8-foot jungle of weeds and asphalt – with herbs, lettuces, arugula, carrots, radishes and more. Tell us about Milque Toast’s community outreach. We do a lot of community and fundraising events, and organizations can use our space to raise funds and promote programs. We have a menu program called salad Days that’s a pay-what-you can or pay-itforward option of a daily menu item, which anyone can get if he or she needs a meal. For that, we’re working with community gardens where we also spend time gardening to promote the local economy. We’re crafting a food map that outlines charities and gardens where people in need can go to get food for themselves, as well as food pantries, soup kitchens and emergency services. Milque toast wants to address the hunger issues and food insecurities in our neighborhood; it’s a larger issue we can work on here in McKinley heights. Milque Toast Bar, 2212 S. Jefferson Ave., McKinley Heights, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.833.0085, milquetoastbar.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
19
where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.
webster house wRItten By Jenny VeRgaRa
Kc
| PhotogRaPhy By aLIStaIR tUtton
KANSAS CITY. a restored schoolhouse might not scream fine
Southern cuisine, but that’s what you’ll find at Webster House. executive chef Matt arnold developed the menu from his time spent living and cooking in north Carolina. arnold’s interest in Southern cuisine inspired some of the most popular menu items, made with locally sourced ingredients. Diners can find his favorites made-to-order on webster house’s Sunday brunch menu. Start with one of three Bloody Mary options and fried green tomatoes with pimento cheese and tomato jam for the table. From there, try the sweet tea-brined fried chicken on a Cheddar cathead biscuit served with american cheese, Duke’s mayonnaise, kale slaw and pickled red onion. arnold’s longest-running dish (for good reason) is the jumbo shrimp with anson Mills grits; made with creamy grits and large, succulent shrimp, this dish is smothered in a vinaigrette made with Burgers’ Smokehouse ham drippings and red-eye gravy. Webster House, 1644 Wyandotte St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.221.4713, websterhousekc.com
photoGraphy by anna petroW
randolfi’s italian kitchen story and photo by nancy stiles
UNIVERSITY CITY, MO. Many st. louisians were puzzled when restaurateur Mike
randolph announced plans to transform his University city restaurant, the Good pie, into a more expansive italian concept, Randolfi’s Italian Kitchen. the restaurant opened in august, still featuring the neapolitan pizzas that earned the Good pie acclaim, plus southern italian dishes like duck confit gnocchi and housemade spaghetti alla chitarra, creamy burrata, oven-roasted cauliflower, poached black cod and more. Fare at randolfi’s is playful without losing the flavor of randolph’s italian heritage and is meant to be shared, such as the maccheroni alla mugnaia, a hand-pulled, single strand of pasta made with pizza flour and three types of peppers, chile flakes and basil blossoms. randolph’s tradition of serving innovative cocktails continues with head barman Jeffrey Moll, Jr., a longtime collaborator, who favors italian spirits behind the bar. in addition to classics like the negroni, Moll serves a selection of nonalcoholic cocktails.
Ks
dempsey’s burger pub LAWRENCE, KS. steve Gaudreau launched Dempsey’s Burger Pub in Jayhawk country in 2008. chef Matt lawson, who has worked with Wolfgang puck, created the restaurant’s original menu, which combines mostly fromscratch fare made with fine-dining techniques. the pub’s 100-percent chuck burgers are prepared on a flat griddle, which cooks the meat in its own juices for added flavor. options include the Kobe burger with shallot marmalade, tomato confit and fresh watercress, and
20
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
Written by pete dUlin
the hot hawaiian Kobe with pineapplejalapeño chutney, applewood bacon, bibb lettuce and spicy sriracha aïoli served on a pretzel bun. in addition to 10 other burger options – including a vegetarian quinoa patty – and rotating specials, the pub offers sliders, wings, salads, fish and chips, and four types of french fries with an assortment of dipping sauces. Dempsey’s Burger Pub, 623 Vermont St., Lawrence, Kansas, 785.856.5460, dempseysburgerpub.com
Randolfi’s Italian Kitchen, 6665 Delmar Blvd. #100-B, University City, Missouri, 314.899.9221, facebook.com/randolfis
stl
market house cafe & bake shop
One On One
mo
where we’re dining
jake davis
co-owner, root cellar
WritteN By Valeria turturrO KlaMM
wrItten By ettIe BernekIng
JEFFERSON CITY AND COLUMBIA, MO.
OZARK, MO. Come hungry to Market House Cafe & Bake Shop, because the mini apple
When Jake Davis and his wife, Chelsea, purchased Root Cellar, an independent grocery store in Downtown Columbia, Missouri, in 2011, they were excited for the opportunity to grow the store’s food co-op component. at the time, the couple were building their own farm in Millersburg, Missouri, and saw the challenges of trying to make a living solely by bringing their products to farmers’ markets. “We thought there has to be a way to do this with more volume – sell more product and help more farmers,” Jake says. in four years, root Cellar’s small co-op of 20 families has grown to a weekly subscription of nearly 400 families who choose from three food box subscriptions of locally sourced fruits, vegetables, dairy, meats and artisan products. this past May, the Davises opened a second storefront in Jefferson City, Missouri. Both locations now offer lunch items made with local, seasonal produce, including salads, sandwiches and soups, open Wednesday through Friday from 11am to 2pm.
pies aren’t so mini. In fact, most of the pies, cakes, scones, cookies and cinnamon rolls are large enough to share – but who would want to do that? Owner Barbara Heinrichs-Hardy is the woman to thank for those oversized, sugary treats. She makes everything here from scratch, including all of the breads used for sandwiches. Located along an adorable square in Ozark, Missouri, Market House opened in July 2014 and quickly developed a following for its breakfast and lunch fare. Besides a tempting selection of baked goods, Market House’s kitchen pumps out classic breakfast items such as eggs Benedict, hash browns and omelets, not to mention a well-stocked lunch menu of meaty muffalettas, fried green tomatoes (when in season), wraps, salads and bowls of hot soup served with housemade bread. Anything served on the chewy Amish white bread is a must-try. Market House Cafe & Bake Shop, 113 N. Second St., Ozark, Missouri, 417.551.4370, facebook.com/markethousecafeandbakeshop
mo
pHOtOgrApHy By AArOn OttIS
pHOtOgrApHy By AArOn OttIS
Why did you open a location in Jefferson City? in May 2014 we started a relationship with City of Jefferson Parks, recreation & Forestry to deliver our food subscriptions to the city because people were calling or emailing us regularly, asking, “How do i get this in Jefferson City?” Within a small window of time, we had about 75 people participating in the area. Why is it important to you to work with local farms? We think box subscriptions are one of the most stable and sustainable ways for a farmer to grow his or her operation. We give the farmer a stable supply chain, which then allows that farmer to invest in putting that crop in the ground. it allows them to invest in growing their operation, knowing that our business is growing. the national average is about 19 cents of every dollar going back to the farmer. in our case, we strive for 60 cents of every dollar to go back to the farmer. How have you seen interest in local food change? Customers have become savvier about the things they want, getting more familiar with CSa or weekly subscription services. they’re understanding that it’s a way for farmers to deliver the best things they have to offer at a reasonable price. How has your subscription service evolved? We have the Bounty Box, which is the original box with eight to 12 fruits and vegetables. then we had people saying they’d be interested in buying pasture-raised meats, so we created the Barnyard Box – two meat items, a half-gallon of milk, a cheese item and a dozen eggs. We had a lot of couples and single folks saying they’d love to buy local but didn’t need everything in the Bounty Box, so we created the Ploughman’s Box – four to six produce items, one meat item and an artisan food item. all box options are the same price. the past four years, we’ve been running a winter season subscription from November to March in addition to our spring-tosummer subscription from april to October. What can people expect in the winter subscription? We do as-sustainable-as-possible indoor growing, so we have root crops, green beans, cabbage, kale, broccoli and cauliflower. Plus we do preserving and pickling, and we freeze items from summer, including peppers, blueberries and grass-fed meats. Root Cellar, multiple locations, rootcellarmo.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
O C T O B E R 2015
21
destination: Galena, illinois
road trip
WRITTEN By AMy LyNCH
Galena, Illinois, celebrates the German branch of its family tree with fun and Old World flavor during the town’s ninth annual Galena Oktoberfest on Sat., Oct. 3 from noon to 10pm. Last year’s shindig attracted some 4,000 attendees who enjoyed traditional Bavarian fare, beer, live music and wiener dog races. Sign up to compete in the traditional beer stein endurance contest, Masskrugstemmen, to see who can hold a full mug at arm’s length the longest. For more information, visit galenalions.org.
sleep
eat
Set amid nearly 7,000 acres of idyllic countryside, this expansive resort spoils guests with an enviable list of recreational options that include four championship golf courses, 23 miles of hiking and biking trails, an indoor pool, horseback riding, boating, fishing, skiing, sledding and skating. The luxurious full-service Stonedrift Spa, several on-site restaurants and a general store round out the amenities.
This cozy old-school eatery has endured several incarnations since it was built in 1899 to be a restaurant and tasting room, including stints as a basket shop, bakery, grocery, furniture store, pizza place, antique shop and record store. Named for the building’s original owner, Otto’s Place now serves up a tasty selection of breakfast and lunch fare, including banana bread French toast, egg tacos and roast beef and melted Havarti sandwiches, plus dinner on Friday and Saturday nights.
Eagle Ridge Resort & Spa
444 Eagle Ridge Drive, 815.777.5000, eagleridge.com PHOTO BY UNPOSED PHOTOGRaPHY
local gems
Otto’s Place Café & Lounge
100 Bouthillier St., 815.776.0240, ottosplace.com
Blaum Bros. Distilling Co. Victory Cafe Victory Cafe dishes up home-style breakfast items such as bacon waffles, Hobo Hash and a range of omelets, plus a variety of lunch specials including burgers, sandwiches, hot plates, salads and housemade soups.
Propose a toast to the line of premium gin, vodka, moonshine and bourbon coming out of the copper still at this family-owned operation. Tours of the facility offer a behind-the-scenes peek at where the magic happens. 9380 W. U.S. Highway 20, 815.777.1000, blaumbros.com
200 N. Main St., 815.777.4407, victorycafes.com
Durty Gurt’s Burger Joynt
Aldrich Guest House
900 Third St., 815.777.3323, aldrichguesthouse.com
One Eleven Main This elegant spot makes the most of local flavors with lunch and dinner menus featuring regional meat, produce and artisan food products. Think artfully constructed plates of chile-sugar-cured duck breast, jalapeño-peach barbecue pork and poutine covered in cheese curds and beer gravy. Save room for pie from Cynthia’s Extra Batch bakery.
235 N. Main St., 815.776.9990, durtygurtsburgerjoynt.com
Galena Canning Co. Sample the wares and stock up on souvenirs like locally produced salsas, mustards, jams, pickles, syrups and the signature incendiary Galena’mite Blasting Sauce, a secret blend of 20 hot peppers, at this quirky Main Street store. 106 S. Main St., 815.777.2882, galenacanning.com
111 N. Main St., 815.777.8030, oneelevenmain.com
DeSoto House Billed as the largest hotel in the West when it opened on Galena’s charming Main Street in 1855, the DeSoto House once boasted 225 guest rooms, a spacious dining hall, parlors, office spaces, a saloon and a bowling alley. These days, visitors can relax in 55 Victorianstyle guest rooms and suites with private baths, dine in the soaring four-story Courtyard Restaurant atrium and shop in the hotel’s own handful of boutique stores. 230 S. Main St., 815.777.0090, desotohouse.com
22
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
Fried Green Tomatoes An impressive selection of steaks, fresh seafood and rustic Italian cuisine belies the cutesy, casual name of this destination restaurant. Inside, exposed brickwork and historic décor lend a sense of character to the 19th-century Galena landmark and provide a vintage backdrop for special-occasion meals. 213 N. Main St., 815.777.3938, friedgreen.com PHOTO BY ROBERT kEEliNG
Galena Brewing Co. Pick a pint, any pint. With choices like Farmer’s blonde ale, Uly’s Dark oatmeal stout, Anna Belle’s IPA and other award-winning suds, you really can’t go wrong at this friendly brewpub. 227 N. Main St., 815.776.9917, galenabrewery.com
PHOTOS COURTESY GalENa/JO DaviESS COUNTY CvB (GalENa.ORG)
This historic mansion carries a storied past dating back to 1845. Converted to a bed-and-breakfast in 1984, the handsome boutique property now hosts guests in five painstakingly renovated rooms that highlight modern features including Beekman 1802 bath accessories, complimentary Wi-Fi and Bluetooth-enabled radios. In addition to a sumptuous daily hot breakfast spread, wine and hors d’oeuvres are served nightly at 5pm, and coffee, tea, hot chocolate and homemade cookies are available 24/7.
For the best burgers in town, groove on over to Durty Gurt’s for juicy ½-pound Angus beef patties topped with the likes of Spanish olives, crispy bacon strips, grilled pineapple, chipotle mayo, avocado or good ol’ American cheese. Sweet potato fries and a regular or boozy milkshake make the ideal accompaniments.
�
�
Best Burger in Mission awesome coffee shop
made to order brunch
rockin’ happy hour
5401 Johnson Drive, Mission, KS 66205 913-403-8571, www.luckybrewgrille.com
featuring daily specials Monday - Friday | Lunch & Dinner Saturday - Sunday | Dinner Only 2061 Zumbehl Rd St. Charles, MO 636•949•9005
www.fratellisristorante.com @FratellisToGo
Chef-driven neighborhood cuisine for all tastes in Lee's Summit & Waldo Patio Parties Every Wed. in Lee’s Summit Steak Night Every Mon. in Waldo
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
23
august to november: PePitas
IN SEASON
stl Written by bethany Christo
Pumpkin seeds, or the deshelled version, pepitas, can be so much more than tasty roasted snacks. Chefs are finding creative ways to cook with them, from grinding them up for a nutty crunch in salsa to coarsely chopping them for gremolata over pork loin. Kc
salsa
Kansas CitY. “there might
be rioting if we tried to take it off the menu,” says Anton’s head butcher and chef brian bromwell of the restaurant’s tacos, which include pepita salsa along with pickled jalapeños, cilantro, red onion and housemade queso fresco, as well as your choice of tilapia (raised on-site) or house-butchered beef or pork. the salsa blends roasted pepitas with oven-roasted tomatoes and a kick of heat with jalapeño vinegar and chile de árbol and is made in the style typical to oaxacan cuisine. “pepitas work very much as if you were using a nut, as in a mole or romesco sauce,” bromwell says. “i think a lot of it is texture – it’s kind of like when you get fresh-ground peanut butter, it’s got creaminess and also graininess.” the tacos with pepita salsa are served year-round, as anton’s sources pepitas from an organic grocer that always has them on hand. Anton’s, 1610 Main St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.888.8800, antonskc.com
Pepita salsa If the texture is too thick, add water. If too thin, simmer longer. reCipe Courtesy brian bromWell, anton’s
Yields | 4 cups | ¼ 2 ½ ½ 1 1 2 2
onion, roasted cups chopped roasted tomato cup canola oil cup roasted pepitas tsp ground cumin tsp chile de árbol tsp oregano tsp jalapeño vinegar* kosher salt (to taste)
*White wine vinegar will also work, just add more chile de árbol for heat.
| Preparation | in a large pot over low heat, bring all ingredients except salt to a simmer. Cook for 30 minutes. purée in a food processor or blender and season with salt to taste. serve. 24
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
gremolata
st. Louis. the farm-to-table philosophy at Dressel’s Public
House in st. louis sometimes requires extra effort – for example, the kitchen crew deshells seeds from local pumpkins by hand for its candied pepitas. last month, executive chef Derek roe introduced a red wine-braised pork shank that was topped with a gremolata made with toasted breadcrumbs, orange zest, raw garlic, parsley and toasted and coarsely chopped pepitas – though the restaurant uses so many that it buys them deshelled for the gremolata. “the pepitas add to the earthy fall element of the dish,” roe says. “We have a decent amount of pepitas in the gremolata so that it’ll lend a nuttiness that pairs well with the sweetness of the squash and adds a crispycrunchiness to the braised pork.” in the past, Dressel’s fall menu has featured a pepita brittle with butternut squash risotto, a wood-fire roasted pumpkin with pepita mole, pepita vinaigrette and more. Dressel’s Public House, 419 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.361.1060, dresselspublichouse.com
CHeF’s tiP “An easy way to candy whole pumpkin seeds is to simmer them in a simple syrup and then roast them in the oven until the outside gets crispy-crunchy. It’s a treat.” –Derek Roe, executive chef, Dressel’s Public House
como
vinaigrette
CoLumbia, mo. When Glenn’s Cafe first returned to the tiger
hotel in Columbia, missouri, in summer 2013, there was a new addition to the menu that’s now a popular year-round staple: grilled troutdale Farm trout over braised kale drizzled with a thick pepita vinaigrette alongside roasted fingerling potatoes garnished with diced tomatoes, green onion and whole pepitas. pepitas aren’t the main flavor in the vinaigrette, which is also made with olive oil, apple cider vinegar, pumpkin purée, turmeric, salt and pepper, but they do add texture, according to chef Chris pender, who has been with glenn’s since 1997. “the pepitas not only give the vinaigrette some flavor, but also thicken it so when you drizzle it over the fish, it stays put,” he says. “they’re a good snack on their own, too; we always have to keep the employees out of them.” Glenn’s Cafe, 29 S. Eighth St., Columbia, Missouri, 573.447.7100, glennscafe.com
photography by marekuliasz & jurriaan huting /istoCk.Com /isto
one on one
Kc
joe west
chef, kusshi
WRITTEn By pETE DuLIn
photography by chris mullins
KANSAS CITY. Chef Joe West’s career began when he was a 16-year-old prep cook at Kansas City’s 40 Sardines. Over the years, he’s worked in kitchens like Bluestem, Wynn Las Vegas and The Cincinnatian Hotel and its on-site restaurant, both of which won an AAA Four Diamond award under his direction – and he won the 2014 Iron Fork Competition in Cincinnati. After working in cities across the country, West returned to Kansas City to helm 801 Fish before leaving in March to launch Kusshi, (which translates to “precious” in Japanese), a pop-up dining experience that’s drawn rave reviews, with events this month on Oct. 5, 17 and 20. West describes the menu at Kusshi as an a la carte “collection of American-Asian inspired small plates, canapés and snacks with European influences,” as well as an expanded tasting menu, “for guests seeking an extended grand experience.” Recently, Erik Borger, owner of local Il Lazzarone pizzeria, enlisted West to help launch a ramen restaurant in Midtown later this year called Komatsu.
What’s your vision for Kusshi? The idea is to get the community’s support. Without the support, Kusshi doesn’t exist. I can keep cooking, but if no one comes to my pop-ups, then I can’t keep doing this financially. The food I cook needs to be memorable and delicious; otherwise, it’s not worth it to the guests. I want them to leave pleasantly surprised. I have a certain style and eye for hospitality; people see it because of how unique it is – the way I write menus, the way I don’t follow all of the rules of cooking and my way of combining luxury and a relaxed outlook on dining. What should people know about your approach to food? A lot of people, particularly young cooks, think I am some molecular gastronomy “expert.” I focus on the basics first. I don’t have a favorite recipe or favorite kind of food. I have a hard time explaining my style of food. It’s me, it’s what I know and it’s what I want to explore. I went through many stages in my life. I have experiences from all of those stages, and I can express that through my food. Your menu descriptions are often irreverent or humorous. Why? I have a genuine relationship with food in my mind, and I want people to know what I’m thinking about. It’s a part of what makes Kusshi unique, and I’m not concerned about what’s “in” and what is considered “modern” or “traditional.” I’m just being me, and it feels right. What culinary trend would you like to see in Kansas City? Late-night dining. It doesn’t have to be fancy, but it seems like everyone closes their kitchens at 10pm. It’s not for everyone, but it would be nice to have a few options every night. Will Kusshi evolve into a brick-and-mortar restaurant? I’ll continue to run pop-up dinners – I’m serious about what I’m doing. Eventually, I will find a financial partner who believes in me. I don’t just want a restaurant. I want the best restaurant. I want it to look and feel a certain way; I want it to receive recognition and accolades. I want this restaurant to mean something to Kansas City, more than just a place that serves food. I don’t want just any old business partner. This person needs to be at a high level, and not just financially. Visit feastmagazine.com to read our full interview with chef Joe West. Kusshi, kusshikc.com
Gift Cards Available!
Try our 18oz.
Prime Ribeye
enhanced by a delicious Mushroom Burgundy sauce, creamy garlic mashed potatoes and Rose Bud Salad. Conveniently located in Kirkwood Dinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m. 133 West Clinton Place St. Louis, MO 63122 314-965-9005
www.citizenkanes.com
JOIN US FOr OUR GRAND REMODEL REVEAL CEREMONY!
TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 3
7:45AM GRAND REVEAL CEREMONY 8AM–5PM DAY LONG FESTIVITIES
Stop by to check-out our newly remodeled Whole Foods Market Galleria store. Enjoy a day long celebration including free samples, giveaways, and more!
B Brentwood ren entw ntw tw o o d S Sq Square uar uar are 1601 S Brentwood Blvd
@WFMGALLERIA @ WFMGALALLERIA Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
25
REGIONAL RESTAURANT GUIDE As proud supporters of Feast Magazine, we encourage you to visit any of these fine establishments. From fine dining to fast casual to local wineries, there are an array of experiences to choose from, so support and eat local! 1818 Chophouse
210 S Buchanan St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.9300
4420 Warwick Blvd. Kansas City, MO 816.561.7740 kemperart.org
Dewey’s Pizza
Grünauer
Multiple Locations deweyspizza.com
101 W. 22nd St. Kansas City, MO 816.283.3234 grunauerkc.com
4 Hands Brewing Co.
Café Ventana
Diablito’s
Hendricks BBQ
Aunt Maggie’s
Cave Vineyard
Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard
Hodaks Restaurant & Bar
1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com
230 N. Main St. Columbia, IL 618.281.7894 auntmaggiesonmain.com
Augusta Winery
5601 High St. Augusta, MO 888.667.9463 augustawinery.com
Avenue Restaurant 12 N. Meramec Ave. Clayton, MO 314.727.4141 avestl.com
Aya Sofia
6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com
Balducci Vineyards
26
Café Sebastienne at Kemper Museum
3919 W. Pine Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.531.7500 cafeventana.com
21124 Cave Rd. Ste. Genevieve, MO 573.543.5248 cavevineyard.com
Chandler Hill Vineyards
596 Defiance Rd. Defiance, MO 636.798.2675 chandlerhillvineyards.com
Citizen Kane’s Steak House
2100 Gravois Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.776.7292 hodaks.com
512 N. Euclid Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.367.3644 evangelinesstl.com
Huddle Bar & Grill 1101 Caseyville Rd. Caseyville, IL 618-855-8555 facebook.com/ huddlebargrill
SPCIALTIES:
133 W. Clinton Place Kirkwood, MO 314.965.9005 citizenkanes.com
Fratelli’s Ristorante
2061 Zumbehl St. Charles, MO 636-949-9005 fratellisristorante.com
Not our typical bar food! Teriyaki Steak Kabobs with Honey Drizzled Sweet Potato Fries. All meats are hand carved.
Cleveland-Heath
SPECALTIES:
Must Try :
balducciswineryandrestaurant.com
Barcelona
Coastal Bistro & Bar
34 N. Central Ave. Clayton, MO 314.863.9909 barcelonawinebar.com
14 N. Central Ave. Clayton, MO 63105 314.932.7377 costalbistro.com
Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas
Corner Restaurant
OCTOBER 2015
1200 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.8600 hendricksbbq.com
Evangeline’s Bistro
325 Ward Pkwy Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com
106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com
feastmagazine.com
10035 Edge Cliff Drive Potosi, MO 573.438.4741 edg-clif.com
Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel
6601 Hwy 94 S. Augusta, MO 636.482.8466
325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com
3761 Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.644.4430 diablitoscantina.com
4059 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.931.4401 thecornerkc.com
Baked mostaccioli, eggplant Parmigiano, St. Louis-style thin crust pizza.
Must Try :
“Tortellini Ala Panna” beef and pork-stuffed noodles in white cream sauce with peas, mushrooms and prosciutto.
Gallagher’s
114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933 gallagherswaterloo.com
Greek Friday: Greek burger, gyros and Greek salad.
J McArthur’s - An American Kitchen 3500 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.353.9463 jmcarthurs.com
Joe Boccardi’s
117 S. Main St. Columbia, IL 618.281.6700 joeboccardis.com
King & I
Mai Lee
Righteous Pig Bar-B-Que
Summit Grill & Bar
3157 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777 kingandistl.com
8396 Musick Memorial Dr. Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com
Klondike Café at Montelle Vineyard
Noboleis Vineyards & Winery
Robller Vineyard & Winery
Teaspoons Cafe
Olympia Kebob House and Taverna
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
Tenacious Eats
One More Cup
Sanctuaria
The Abbey
Schlafly Tap Room and Schlafly Bottleworks
The Well
201 Montelle Dr. at MO Hwy 94 Augusta, MO 636.228.4464 montelle.com
100 Hemsath Rd. Augusta, MO 636.482.4500 noboleisvineyards.com
1543 McCausland Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.781.1299 olympiakebobandtaverna.com
Lanai Coffee
5300 Donovan Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.835.7446 lanaicoffeestl.com SPECIALTIES:
Nutty Hawaiian, Moscow Hurricane, Kona Mocha Monkey, Pumpkin Chai, Strawberry-HibiscusLemonade and more.
Must Try :
7408 Wornall Rd. Kansas City, MO 816.994.3644 onemorecupkc.com
Our Coffee House & Cafe
125 N. Rapp St. Columbia, IL 618.281.4554 ourcoffeehousecafe.com
Pumpkin Praline Latte, served hot, over ice or blended as a frappe, made with a delicious blend of pumpkin, nutmeg, cinnamon, caramel and pecan.
7539 Wornall Rd. Kansas City, MO 816.444.8080 lewsgrillandbar.com
Providence New American Kitchen 1329 Baltimore Ave. Kansas City, MO 816.303.1686 providence-kc.com
Llywelyn’s Pub
Multiple locations llywelynspub.com
SPECIALTIES:
Duck fat fries, lobster pasta, Nebraska bison steak and egg.
Must Try :
Lorenzo’s Trattoria
1933 Edwards St. St. Louis, MO 314.773.2223 lorenzostrattoria.com
Seasonally designed apple cobblers, brûléed cheesecake, True Manhattan cocktails.
LoRusso’s Cucina
Q39
Lucky Brewgrille
Reifschneider’s Grill & Grape
3121 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.647.6222 lorussos.com
5401 Johnson Dr. Mission, KS 913.403.8571 luckybrewgrille.com
124 E. Main St. Belleville, IL 618.520.8817 righteouspigbbq.com
275 Robller Vineyard Rd. New Haven, MO 573.237.3986 robllerwines.com
1 N. Brentwood Blvd. Ste. 150 Clayton, MO 314.783.9900 ruthschris.com
4198 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.535.9700 sanctuariastl.com
Multiple Locations schlafly.com
Seoul Taco
Lew’s Grill & Bar
1000 W. 39th St. Kansas City, MO 816.255.3753 q39kc.com
Multiple Locations grillandgrape.net
4835 NE Lakewood Way Lees Summit, MO 816.795.7677 summitgrillandbar.com
2125 S. State Route 157 Edwardsville, IL 618.655.9595 teaspoonscafe.com
3117 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.605.3684 tenaciouseats.com
5801 W. Main St. Belleville, IL 618.277.8373 thebellevilleabbey.com
7421 Broadway St. Kansas City, MO 816.361.1700 waldowell.com
Tiny’s Pub & Grill
Multiple Locations 314.863.1148 seoultaco.com
602 N. Main St. Columbia, IL 618.281.9977 tinyscolumbia.com
Shrine Restaurant
Tom + Chee
Somerset Ridge Vineyard & Winery
Trattoria Giuseppe
Stone Hill Winery
Truffles and Butchery
Stur Restaurant
Webster House
Sugar Creek Winery
Wild Sun Winery
442 S. Demazenod Dr. Belleville, IL 618.394.6237 snows.org
29725 Somerset Rd. Paola, KS 913.491.0038 somersetridge.com
1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com
4 Club Centre Court A Edwardsville, IL 618.307.9613 sturrestaurant.com
125 Boone County Lane Defiance, MO 636.987.2400 sugarcreekwines.com
1280 Highway K O’Fallon, MO 636.294.9800 tomandchee.com
5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com
9202 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.567.9100 todayattruffles.com
1644 Wyandotte St. Kansas City, MO 816.221.4713 websterhousekc.com
4830 Pioneer Road Hillsboro, MO 636.797.8686 wildsunwinery.com Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
27
BArcelonA
ruth’s chris
Mouth-watering steaks, sizzling crab cakes, handcrafted cocktails and velvety wine selections—do we have you hooked yet? At Ruth’s Chris, everything is prepared extraordinary because every experience is special. Give Ruth’s in Clayton the opportunity to show you how it’s done. Find Ruth’s in Clayton at Brentwood and Forsyth. 1 N. Brentwood Blvd. ste 150, clayton, MO 63105 314-783-9900 ruthschrisstLouis.com
We pride ourselves in creating a traditional authentic Tapas Bar atmosphere. This includes our warm decor and the traditional hanging of Serrano hams and dried bacalaos. Our service reflects a traditional tapas experience as you might find in Madrid, Barcelona or Sevilla. Tapas in Spain are almost always accompanied by wine. We offer a variety of Spanish wines by the glass or bottle, as well as our red or white
sangria. Come join us soon! 34 N. Central • Clayton, MO 63105 barcelonatapas.com • 314-863-9909
the wine merchant
The Wine Merchant has offered excellent value, selection, and service to the St. Louis wine and spirits community since 1992. Now in a new location! Join us for open house tastings Fridays from 5-7 and Saturdays from 12-4. Subscribe to our emails for info on sales, tastings, and events! 7817 Forsyth Blvd, clayton, mO 63105 (314) 863-6282 • winemerchantltd.com
Avenue
Welcome to Avenue where we are open all day - every day. We’ve taken what was best about Pomme Restaurant and Pomme Cafe & Wine Bar and have combined them in one space. Avenue offers The Apple Room for private events for 45 guests seated or 60 standing. Patio seating available. Breakfast, lunch, dinner & brunch on the weekends. 12 N. Meramec Ave., Clayton, MO 63105 • avestl.com 314-727-4141 28
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
coAstAl Bistro The menu at Coastal Bistro is an exciting combination of coastal influences from low country and creole inspired items, to New England favorites, and West Coast specialties. Escape to the Coast in Clayton – Come to Coastal and enjoy items from the raw bar, small plates, or dinner menu, Coastal is the perfect place for date night or meeting with friends. 14 N. Central • Clayton, MO 63105 coastalbistro.com • 314-932-7377
where we’re drinking
sip fall-perfect cocktails on p. 34 PHOTOGRAPHy by Judd demAline
trending now: Craft root Beer
on trend
Written by bethany Christo PhotograPhy by jonathan gayman
Many craft breweries produce root beer to offer guests a nonalcoholic drink option – but some are finding the spicy sipper is why customers are seeking them out in the first place. Root Beer with Vanilla-Infused Vodka “If you want to cut infusion time, slice the vanilla bean down the center, and then the vodka will be ready in just a few days – the juicier the bean, the better,” says Josh Collins of Big Rip Brewing Co. reCiPe Courtesy josh Collins, big riP breWing Co.
Serves | 1 | 1 1 5
fresh vanilla bean 750-milliliter bottle S.D. Strong Distilling Vodka oz root beer ice
kc
nortH KanSaS CitY, Mo. the housemade root beer at Big Rip
Brewing Co. has been around since the brewery was founded in 2013. a few months after opening, however, it introduced an “adult” version of the root beer, made with local s.D. strong Vodka. it was a favorite drink of big rip’s self-described beer chancellor, josh Collins, in college, albeit formerly made with cheaper vodka. “the drink really took on a life of its own,” Collins says. “straight-up root beer takes a backseat to the mixed drink, and it’s gotten to the point where nonbeer drinkers feel comfortable coming out because they’ve heard of this drink – it’s mentioned on yelp just as often as our beers.” the root beer and vanilla-vodka-root beer cocktail are only served at the brewery’s tasting room. big rip brewing Co. also occasionally serves housemade sarsaparilla and is planning to make a birch beer later this year to serve in a drink with j. rieger & Co.’s Kansas City Whiskey. Big Rip Brewing Co., 216 E. Ninth Ave., North Kansas City, Missouri, 816.866.0747, bigripbrewing.com
| Preparation | Drop vanilla bean in vodka bottle, reseal and allow to infuse for 2 weeks. When ready to serve, mix 2 oz vanilla-infused vodka with root beer and serve over ice.
with vodka
mo
creamy old-style
Ste. geneVieVe, Mo. guests visit Charleville Vineyard Winery &
Microbrewery in ste. genevieve, missouri, specifically to try its “old-style” root beer, which is only served in the tasting room, and has been since 2004. it’s always been popular, especially with regulars who fill up growlers to take home to kiddos, but the crowd now seems to be seeking it out for its hand-crafted quality. “it’s a little heavier than standard root beer, pouring a foamy head and going down really smooth,” says co-owner joal russell. “i remember going to Carl’s Drive-in [in st. louis] as a kid and getting its root beer in a frosted mug, and ours is much richer.” the root beer is served year-round and made with sucrose, honey gathered from hives on the property and vanilla extract, according to brewmaster tony saballa. Charleville Vineyard Winery & Microbrewery, 16937 Boyd Road, Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, 573.756.4537, charlevillevineyard.com
IL
since 1939
BreeSe, iL. Excel Bottling Co. has been making Frostie root beer
since 1939 – that’s 76 years – and it’s the company’s oldest product. general manager bill meier’s grandfather bought a franchise from Frostie beverage Co. to sell its root beer, and the company has continuously sent the concentrate to excel to produce and bottle. glass bottles have been filled at the mom-and-pop bottler in breese, illinois, in the same process and with the same product since the beginning, with a few small tweaks, meier says. For example, the initial formula included sassafras, which has since been banned by the FDa. “on our end, we’re mixing it the same way we always have,” he says. “the flavor profile has stayed the same.” excel uses granulated sugar, dissolves it overnight to yield a golden simple syrup, adds flavoring the next morning and bottles it. the inclusion of yucca gives it a foamy head, and it has flavors of vanilla, wintergreen and anise. meier says an increasing number of people are seeking out the craft product. “a fresh, cold Frostie in an icy mug with a big, foamy head – you just can’t beat that,” he says. excel’s root beer is available in many restaurant and retail outlets in st. louis and across missouri and illinois. Excel Bottling Co., 488 S. Broadway, Breese, Illinois, 618.526.7159, excelbottling.com
ONe ON ONe
kc
jennifer helber owner and president, grain to glass Written by Pete Dulin
photography by alistair tutton
NORTH KANSAS CITY, MO. novice and veteran homebrewers regularly turn to Jennifer Helber, owner of Grain to Glass, for her deep well of homebrewing knowledge, industry expertise and wide array of supplies. Helber launched and ran the qualityassurance laboratory at boulevard brewing Co. for nine years before opening Grain to Glass in 2012 to offer her knowledge of commercial-grade brewing to hobbyists. She has been a homebrewer since 2006 and served as president of homebrewing group ZZHops in 2011 and 2012.
Tell us about your work at Boulevard. As a microbiologist by degree, i was hired to establish the qualityassurance lab in 1999. i later became the sensory specialist by training the sensory panel [a panel of eight people who taste, rate and review beer to verify it’s up to standard] and conducting daily qualityassurance tastings. My training at boulevard included a quality-assurance program at Siebel institute of technology and an online course in sensory science from the university of California, Davis. How has your experience in the industry translated to Grain to Glass? i offer classes on beer flavor identification, much like the training i provided for the boulevard sensory panel. i also include tips on bottle conditioning in my Homebrewing for beginners classes. Homebrewing literature [often] lacks information about bottle conditioning, among other things. What products and services does Grain to Glass offer? We offer the most-wanted grains, hops and yeast for homebrewers, along with books and equipment. We also have five commercial beers on tap and a boutique bottle shop to attract beer aficionados, who often have an interest in homebrewing. We have licenses for liquor by the drink and for packaged beers. bottles can be carried out or enjoyed at our bar. Grain to Glass holds frequent events for beer tasting and pairings; we also participate in American Homebrewers Association-sponsored events, such as big brew, Mead Day and learn to Homebrew Day. We hope to offer water analysis soon and maybe microbiological testing, too. Do you sell starter kits? We focus on the beginning brewer so that they will get a good start and enjoy the hobby. Along with startup equipment, we have our own ingredient kits made with extract and grains and complete directions for the beginner brewer. What homebrewing events are coming up at Grain to Glass? We hope to repeat our apple pressing for cider early this month (along with demos) and will again host the learn to Homebrew class the first Saturday in november. Monthly Homebrewing for beginners classes are scheduled for Sun., Oct. 18, and Sun., nov. 15. Our three-hour classes are hands-on. Students participate in making a brew and also bottling – everybody takes home bottles. Grain to Glass, 1611 Swift St., North Kansas City, Missouri, 816.472.0516, graintoglass.biz
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
31
the mix
Rebujito Revival My time behind the bar has given me ample insight into people’s drinking habits. there’s no rhyme or reason i can gather as to why, but abundant sales of red wine and hot drinks in the summer, as well as Mojitos and chilled beer in the winter, seem more commonplace than they ought to be. that’s my inspiration for featuring this warm-weather Spanish cocktail in october. if we’re going to drink out of whack, let’s go all in. the rebujito is extremely popular in the area around Seville, Spain, namely during Feria del caballo, also known as Feria del Jerez (which translates to horse fair and sherry fair, respectively), an andalusian-area festival held in the late spring. originally, these festivals started as cattle markets where vendors entertained clients with drinks and dancing.
Story and recipeS by Matt Seiter photography by Jonathan gayMan
over time, the cattle deals halted, but the party remained, making way for the rebujito. the name of the drink stems from the Spanish verb arrebujar, which can mean “to jumble up,” or mix up. that’s what this libation does in the simplest way possible: Mix equal parts sherry (Fino, a dry sherry, is commonly used) with lemonlime soda over ice, garnished with a lemon wedge. it’s quick, refreshing and a wonderful display of the mixability of sherry. Using this simple formula, one can expand the drink to encompass an array of citrus fruits, flavored syrups and fresh herbs to create a rebujito-inspired cocktail that is a hit regardless of the temperature or season. For fall, i’ve modified the recipe to include cinnamon syrup and rosemary.
Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of the dive bar of cocktails bars, bartender at BC’s Kitchen and a bar and restaurant consultant.
Original Rebujito Serves | 1 |
2 2
oz Fino sherry oz lemon-lime soda ice lemon wedge
| Preparation | combine sherry and soda over ice in a double old Fashioned glass. Stir briefly and garnish with lemon wedge. Serve.
Rebujito Revival (Cold-Weather Version) Amontillado sherry is aged a bit longer than Fino and has rich and nutty characteristics. I wouldn’t suggest this style for a light and refreshing drink, but I highly recommend its deep flavor to warm up chilly fall and winter evenings. Serves | 1 |
1½ 1 1 ½ 3 2
oz Amontillado sherry oz fresh clementine or mandarin orange juice tsp fresh lemon juice oz cinnamon syrup ice oz club soda sprigs fresh rosemary citrus wedge
| Preparation | combine all ingredients except soda, rosemary and citrus wedge in cocktail shaker and shake. add soda and fine-strain into a collins glass with fresh ice. garnish with rosemary and citrus wedge. Serve.
Rebujito Revival (Warm-Weather Version) For this drink, find a Fino or Manzanilla sherry. These styles are the driest and produce a nice, refreshing beverage. For those who like simple vodka and lemon-lime soda drinks, this is a must-try. Serves | 1 |
3 to 5 ½ 1½ 3
lemon or lime wedges , plus more for garnish oz simple syrup oz sherry ice oz club soda
| Preparation | in a cocktail shaker, muddle citrus and syrup. add sherry and ice and shake to combine. add soda, stirring to incorporate. pour liquid and ice into a collins glass and garnish with additional citrus fruit. Serve.
on the shelf : october picks
WINE
riverwooD winery’s reserve ChamBourCin
YOUR SOURCE FOR THE FINEST
S E L L I N G
• Maine Lobsters • Jumbo Lump Crabmeat • Dry-Packed Scallops • Jumbo Shrimp • Smoked Salmon • Wide Selection of Oysters & Fish
R E A L
written by Hilary HeDGeS
provenance: rushville, Missouri pairings: Stews · braised meats · Grilled vegetables
Riverwood Winery’s reserve Chambourcin is a medium-bodied red that serves as a nice transition between crisp summer whites and full-bodied winter reds. this semidry wine has aromas of cherry, blackberry and oak. it hits the palate with intense fruit on the front and hints of vanilla midpalate. the finish has light notes of american oak and soft tannins. the wine would pair wonderfully with seasonal vegetables and the comfort foods of fall.
314.993.4844
8660 OLIVE IN U CITY
FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! bobsseafoodstl.com
IMAN AUCTION KANSAS CITY
Watch for our upcoming auctions: October/November Merl Lynn Estate - historic MO River town home, personal watch of Civil War General Sterling Price, fine estate jewelry, lifetime collection of antiques Prof. John Phillips Estate - art & antiques collection from foreignbased linguistics professor & world traveler, including Lithuanian artwork, Turkish & Persian carpets, Korean & Japanese chests, nice collection of amber, French prie dieu, and much more...
E S T A 816-399-9627 T E in ST. LOUIS & KANSAS CITY
www.ImanKC.com
Riverwood Winery, 816.579.9797, riverwoodwinery.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently the director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City’s West Bottoms.
BEER
Great DiviDe BrewinG Co.’s ChoColate oak aGeD yeti written by branDon niCkelSon
style: imperial Stout (9.5% abV) pairings: Grilled new york strip steak · blue cheese · Crème brûlée
O P E N D A I LY 1 2 P M T O 6 P M
at Craft beer Cellar, we’ve got a special place in our hearts for Great Divide Brewing Co.’s Chocolate oak aged yeti. it was the first pick for the shop’s grand opening draft lineup and the first one to run out. it’s a rich, boozy, chocolate and vanilla indulgence that shouldn’t be missed. toned-down hops, cocoa nibs, vanilla notes from the barrel and a dash of cayenne make for remarkably well-balanced flavor. Great Divide Brewing Co., 303.296.9460, greatdivide.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, the only all-craft beer shop in the St. Louis area. Craft Beer Cellar is located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.
SPIRIT
Coulter & Payne Farm Distillery’s BourBon written by Matt Sorrell provenance: Union, Missouri (40% abV) try it: neat, with an ice cube or two. the whiskey has a bit
of spice up front that opens into vanilla and toffee flavors thanks to its time in oak. in august 2014, Mad buffalo Distillery in Union, Missouri, changed its name to Coulter & Payne Farm Distillery. although the name is still fairly new, fans of the distillery’s spirits needn’t fear that their favorites are going away, as they’ve remained unchanged. For example, the bourbon: Formerly known as thunderbeast baby buffalo bourbon, the spirit continues on with the same mash bill, aged for eight to 14 months in new Missouri oak barrels with a no. 4 char. like all Coulter & Payne products, the whiskey is an estateproduced endeavor made with non-GMo grains, grown without pesticides on-site and produced without the aid of colorings, sugar or other additives. Coulter & Payne Farm Distillery, coulterandpaynefarmdistillery.com
When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go. Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
33
where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, breweries, wineries and coffee shops.
Written by jenny vergara
stl
LEE’S SUMMIT, MO. the newest spot stirring and shaking things up in the Kansas
city area is the w, located in the heart of historic downtown lee’s summit. merideth veritasi and her husband purchased the intimate second-story space and spent the next two years remodeling it. exposed brick walls give way to dark wood floors, punctuated by the hammered copper bar. leather chairs are placed next to custom tables that feature an embedded golden “W.” head barman and general manager mike strohm greets everyone who sits down at the bar warmly, even as his hands are busy making every single drink served in the place. strohm’s best-selling smoked vanilla cocktail has the flavor of freshly baked cookies thanks to applewood smoke mingling with 4 roses yellow label bourbon, vanilla beans, burnt sugar simple syrup and aromatic bitters. getting out of the W is almost as mysterious as getting in: once you’ve paid your tab, make your way down the sparkling tiled hallway toward the red exit sign in the back. then hit the lighted red button next to the back door. the light will change to green, and with that, the door will click open, releasing you into the cool night air. the w, 6½ third st., Downtown, lee’s summit, Missouri, 816.287.0000, thew.bar
KC
cellar house wine & food written by kyle harsha
OAKVILLE, MO. soon after bottle Cellars wine shop opened in 2010, owner Patrick
ahearn noticed a common complaint from customers: there weren’t many restaurants or bars in Oakville, Missouri, serving the same quality wine selection as was available in his shop. in May, ahearn solved the problem: he took over the space next to his retail store and opened Cellar House Wine & Food.
photography by landon vonderschmidt
bar manager shawn sullivan has curated an impressive drink program at Cellar house. the wine list boasts more than 20 by-the-glass domestic and foreign options, with both half and full glasses available. sullivan rotates options on a regular basis; you might find baron de bréban, a brut sparkling rosé from Provence; wagner Vineyards’ Chardonnay from near the Finger lakes in new york; or la Posta “Paulucci” Malbec from argentina. even more compelling is the bythe-bottle list, which is essentially every bottle available in the retail space. For a $10 surcharge, you can open any bottle sold in the shop and drink it in the bar.
34
feastmagazine.com
the same care also goes into the cocktail and beer lists. Cocktails include classics like a version of a Frisco and house drinks like bringing back the Dead, a potent combination of white whiskey, lillet blanc, lemon juice, Cointreau and absinthe. the beer selection rotates often and includes local and international microbrews. Cellar House Wine & Food, 6039 Telegraph Road, Oakville, Missouri, 314.846.5100, bottlecellars.com OCTOBER 2015
photography by judd demaline
the w
Signature
Auction
- Kansas City Monday october 19th - 6:30 pm Sheraton crown center - Grand ballrooM
ChefDeBBiegolD lead chef
mo
the coffee ethic
ChefhoWarDhanna
the rieger and ÇaVa WriTTEn By ETTiE BErnEking
SPRINGFIELD, MO. For a great cup of coffee and one of the best people-watching spots
in Springfield, Missouri, it’s hard to do better than The Coffee Ethic. With a prime location along the bustling Downtown square and a bright interior that attracts more of a business crowd than chattering college students, this coffee shop has long been a local favorite. The limited menu focuses attention on carefully crafted cups of coffee, so you won’t find an array of sandwiches or lunch options here – but rather a selection of singleorigin coffees that are roasted in the back and brewed to order, eight beers on tap (plus wine and cocktails) that serve as a perfect late-night pick-me-up and plenty of pastries, which are baked on-site. The housemade spotted chocolate chip cookies are a musttry, especially when they’re hot from the oven. Because these buttery temptresses are baked all day long, the sugary aroma of warm cookies wafts from behind the bar every few hours. Even the cappuccinos are worthy of bragging rights: They’re small but mighty, thanks to a firm mound of foam that crowns the golden espresso hidden beneath. The Coffee Ethic, 124 Park Central Square, Springfield, Missouri, 417.866.6645, thecoffeeethic.com
ChefalexPoPe the local Pig
ChefnanCylongo Pierpoint restaurant baltimore, Md
ChefniCkWeSemann the american
ChefteDhaBiger room 39
ChefryanBrazeal novel
ChefDaviDfelton
ninety acres - Peapack, nJ
ChefJoSheanS
happy Gillis and columbus Park ramen Shop
ChefJonathanJuStuS Justus drugstore
ChefnataShagoellner phoTography By BraD zWEErink
natasha's Mulberry and Mott
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
35
drink destination: belton, mo
dunn’s cider mill wrItten by Pete DulIn
belton, mo. Dunn’s Cider Mill began
PhOtOGrAPhy by lAnDOn VOnDerSChMIDt
its 39th season this year, which will run until mid-november. Owner Jon Dunn still brings in local apples from an orchard in waverly, Missouri, to his big red mill in belton, 30 minutes from Kansas City, to make all-natural, pressed apple cider. “Jonathan apples are the most important for the best cider flavor,” Dunn says of the sweet-but-acidic apples. early in the season, Dunn blends Jonathan apples with other varieties including Golden Delicious and Gala to balance tartness and sweetness. Varieties such as winesap, braeburn, Granny Smith and Pink lady work their way into the blend as the season progresses. “by the third or fourth week of September, mature apples are more full of flavor and sweeter,” Dunn says. try the cider donuts in plain or cinnamon sugar, which are made on-site every day.
| 1 | apple cider is freshly pressed,
Dunn’s Cider Mill, 17003 Holmes Road, Belton, Missouri, 816.331.7214, millsite.homestead.com
filtered and refrigerated until served. Dunn doesn’t use any preservatives or chemicals in his cider. It’s sold by the gallon, half-gallon and cup.
one on one
three must-try drinks at dunn’s cider mill | 2 | For a cooler seasonal treat, Dunn agitates the base cider in a machine that freezes the liquid into a slush consistency – and nothing else is added. cider slush is sold by the cup only.
| 3 | As autumn temperatures dip, a cup of piping hot spiced cider warms the hands and fends off the chill in the air. Dunn spices his with cinnamon, clove and allspice and sells it by the cup.
stl
edward wagner & mark baehmann wild sun winery co-owner and president
WRitten By BetHany CHRisto
How did you two meet? My dad owned a bar in st. Louis, and i liked the socializing aspect of that, but i wasn’t sure it was the direction i wanted. When i visited Les Bourgeois Vineyards in college [near] the 36
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
University of Missouri, it spoke to me, and i realized a winery like that could be a part of my lifestyle. out of college, i got hired by anheuser-Busch, so i transferred to the beer industry for 17 years. after the layoffs happened after inBev took over, i realized now would be the time to pursue the dream i had since college. after about a year of trying on my own, i heard through a friend of a friend that Mark was trying to start a winery. so that’s when we met and realized we had the same values, ideas, principles and goals. We decided at that point to team up and create what we have now with Wild sun. –Edward Wagner Mark, why did you want to open your own winery? it starts with family legacy and wanting to be able to leave something. My family’s two farms are gone now. But more than that, over all these years, i’ve witnessed how Missouri wineries do things, and i thought if i ever had the chance, what a dream come true to do it my way, in a way that i consider better. –Mark Baehmann What can people expect at the tasting room? the home was built with a foundation originating from the 1870s. it has southern charm and character; the land and views are beautiful going down through the valley in the back. it’s very soothing for
the soul. the food portion will start very slowly, with fresh cheeses, sausages, pizzas and breads. one of our investors is a retired anheuser-Busch brewmaster, and he’s going to help us get into the microbrewery aspect. initially, we’re offering regional microbrews, but by spring we should have three of our own Wild sun-branded beers available. We’re still experimenting with formulas right now. –E.W. Describe your wine program. our wine portfolio rounds out at 12. there are a few acres where we’ll grow our own grapes as soon as we can, but right now we’re buying grapes and then fermenting and producing everything at Wild sun. We want to purchase from Missouri grape growers, first and foremost. We want to be supportive of our local industry, so we carry norton, Chambourcin, Vidal Blanc, Chardonel – the mainstays that have been good for Missouri. But i’ve also ventured out and brought some Cabernet in from California or Washington; i’ve always compared it to when you enjoy a jar of salsa, you don’t always wonder where the tomatoes were grown but rather [about]
the person who made the salsa. i don’t want to buy someone else’s Cabernet wine; i want to buy their fruit and then make it myself at Wild sun. –M.B. What are your best-selling wines? the two most popular wines are Radiance – a dry white Chardonel and Vidal Blanc blend aged in stainless steel tanks, very food friendly, easy drinking – and Ravage, a dry red blend of predominately Chambourcin that’s an everyday, go-to wine that complements a lot of foods. –M.B. Wild Sun Winery, 4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, Missouri, 636.797.8686, wildsunwinery.com
PhOtOGrAPhy by hAnnAh FOlDy
HILLSBORO, MO. the two men behind Wild Sun Winery bring their respective expertise to the Hillsboro, Missouri, winery and microbrewery. Co-owner and president edward Wagner (pictured right) worked in marketing and sales at anheuser-Busch for 17 years before embarking on his decades-old dream to open a winery and microbrewery. Coowner, vice president and winemaker Mark Baehmann (pictured left) spent years making wine at some of the state’s top wineries including Chaumette Vineyards & Winery, Montelle Winery and Mount Pleasant Winery, with the intention of eventually owning his own winery. the pair’s dreams came to fruition last month with the soft opening of Wild sun’s tasting room, which is located just a little more than 30 minutes from st. Louis. the tasting room will stay open through the winter and host grand opening celebrations this spring.
co-owner, vice president and winemaker
Hermann wine trail
cellar house
explore the Hermann wine trail Winding through some of the prettiest scenery in Missouri, the Hermann Wine Trail hugs the Missouri River for 20 miles between Hermann and New Haven, meandering down country lanes and through picture-postcard villages. The seven family-owned wineries along the route are open daily, year-round. Stone Hill and Hermannhof wineries and the Dierberg Star Lane tasting room are in Hermann; Adam Puchta and OakGlenn wineries are just outside of town. Traveling east on Highway 100, Bias Winery is near Berger and Röbller Winery is just past New Haven.
tue-thur. 4pm-12am fri. 4pm-1:30am sat. 2pm-1:30am
wine
+
beer
+
cocktails
+
small plates
6039 Telegraph Road Oakville, Missouri www.bottlecellars.com
+
desserts
314 - 846 - 5100
Wine Trail vintners host five annual food-and-wine pairing events: • Chocolate wine trail, the third weekend of February, is a popular Valentine’s getaway. • wild Bacon wine trail, the first weekend of May, pairs wine with savory bacon dishes. • Berries & BarBQ wine trail, the last full weekend of July, celebrates the flavors of summer. • Holiday Fare wine trail, the third weekend of November, is a festive start to the holiday season. • Say Cheese wine trail, the second weekend of December, showcases wine and cheese-inspired dishes. Hermannwinetrail.com 800.932.8687
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
37
Montelle Winery
AugustA Winery
Founded in 1988 by owner and winemaker Tony Kooyumjian, Augusta Winery produces award-winning Missouri wines. Located just 45 minutes outside of St. Louis in historic Augusta, Missouri, Augusta Winery is a relaxing, local getaway with wine tastings daily and live music on weekends April to October. Open year-round. Picnic baskets welcome. 5601 High st., Augusta, MO 63332 888.MOr.Wine (667.9463) | AugustaWinery.com
Stone HIll wInery
Stone Hill Winery is open daily for sales, wine tastings and guided tours through its historic wine cellars. The on-site, uniquely charming, Vintage Restaurant serves lunch and dinner, specializing in German cuisine. Stone Hill wines are also available for purchase in most grocery stores and retail outlets. 1110 Stone Hill Highway, Hermann, Mo 65041 573.486.2221 | stonehillwinery.com 38
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
Established in 1970, Montelle Winery has been producing fine Missouri wines for over 45 years. The secret to its success in producing these outstanding wines is its vineyards. In 1980, Augusta was recognized as the first U.S. Wine District because of its unique soil, climate, historical significance and quality of wines produced from grapes grown in vineyards that date to the 1800s. Montelle’s philosophy is to farm the vineyards with a respect for the land and the environment. As a result, its wines are fresh, fragrant, focused and well-balanced, but most of all, express the uniqueness of Montelle’s vineyards. Enjoy Montelle Winery’s award-winning wines among the trees atop the Osage Ridge. Missouri’s most scenic winery, Montelle also aspires to reveal the pleasures of pairing fine wine and food. The Klondike Café offers fresh, high quality cuisine to complement its wines. Choose from a wide selection of gourmet foods to be enjoyed on the multi-level decks where it’s easy to lose yourself in the magnificent view of the Missouri River Valley and rolling hills of Augusta. 201 Montelle Dr., Augusta, Mo 63332 888.595.Wine (9463) montelle.com Mon. to Fri., 10am-5.30pm; Sat. 10am-6pm; Sun. 11am-6pm (extended hours on Fri. & Sat., May – September)
Sugar Creek Winery
Chandler hill Vineyards
From its stunning 42-acre estate with an onsite organic garden to award-winning wines, sophisticated fare and exemplary service, Chandler Hill is regarded as the most exquisite winery in the heart of Missouri’s beloved wine country. Chandler Hill’s majestic hilltop tasting room boasts a 4,500 square foot terrace with breathtaking panoramic views. 596 defiance road, defiance, MO 63341 636.798.COrK (2675) | chandlerhillvineyards.com
cave vineyard
A unique wine country experience that you won’t forget! • Picnic inside a natural cave! • Indulge in the Biscotti Bar Experience • Taste award-winning Missouri wines made from grapes grown right on the property • View the vineyard from the tasting room & outdoor pavilion • See the production area from the winery loft 21124 cave road, Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670 573.543.5299 (Tasting room) | cavevineyard.com
Follow Highway 94 west through the town of Defiance to an inviting hillside that rises from the Katy Trail and provides a panoramic view of the Missouri River Valley. Sugar Creek is your first stop on the Missouri Weinstrasse. Vineyards planted in French and American hybrid grapes surround the turn-ofthe-century Victorian home whose intimate parlor serves as the tasting room. Proprietors Ken and Becky Miller invite wine enthusiasts, hikers and cyclists to “take to the hill” and sample their award-winning selection of dry, semi-dry and fruit wines. Fostered by a love for wine and frequent trips to Missouri wine country, Ken and Becky Miller left Kirkwood, Missouri, in August of 1994 when they purchased the former Boone Country Winery. Their son, Chris Lorch, joined them as winemaker and director of winery operations. Chris spent years working in Napa, California, developing his winemaking skill, resulting in the quality, award-winning wines that Sugar Creek produces today. From vine to glass, you’ll enjoy the complete winery experience at Sugar Creek. You’re surrounded by vineyards with the cellar on the same hilltop and a terrace providing a beautiful view and setting to enjoy your own picnic basket of snacks with a bottle of Sugar Creek wine. 125 Boone Country Lane Defiance, MO 63341 Open every day 10:30am to 5:30pm Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
39
Edg-Clif farms & VinEyard
Noboleis WiNery
Noboleis Vineyards & Winery sits on 84 acres of rolling hillsides and vineyards. The tasting room is open daily, offering wine tastings and lunch, including signature pizzas and appetizers. Guests can enjoy the patio overlooking the vineyards with live music every weekend from May through October. 100 Hemsath road, Augusta, Mo 63332 636.482.4500 | noboleisvineyards.com open daily, 11am-5pm
Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard is a small family run winery and brewery created out of love for this special place. Here, a thirdgeneration family farm has been gently refurbished to make it a comfortable-yet-vibrant venue for wine tasting, weddings, Field to Table dinners and family reunions. Visiting Edg-Clif is not only a treat for the eye with its beautiful country setting but for the palate as well, with awardwinning Chambourcin, Vignoles and Vidal Blanc wines. Edg-Clif is sometimes referred to as the “House of Chambourcin” because of the eight different wines made from that French-American hybrid. Wine tastings can include anything from a dry rosé, French-oak aged Chambourcin, to the gold-medal-winning sweet Twilight. There is something for all wine lovers! This year, Edg-Clif is proud to introduce its own beers with an ever-changing menu that includes cream ales, oatmeal cream stouts and a wonderful vanilla porter.
Guests are encouraged to bring a picnic and relax in large rocking chairs or enjoy a stroll in the many gardens Wild Sun Winery and vineyards as they sip the Located just a short drive from St. Louis, this beautiful handcrafted wines and beers. country estate is the perfect destination for family and friends. You’ll experience its rustic elegance and surrounding This is a visit to the country at it’s finest! natural beauty while sampling world class wines. Wild Sun Winery… where the outside world ends and serenity begins. 10035 Edg-Clif dr., Potosi, mO 63664 4830 Pioneer road, Hillsboro, MO 63050 573.438.4741 | edg-clif.com 636.797.8686 | wildsunwinery.com 40
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
Balducci Vineyards
Carol and Rick Balducci grew up in the St. Louis area, moving to Augusta in 1987 and opening Balducci Vineyards, Winery and Restaurant in 2001. Since then, the Augusta venue has received wonderful reviews and has been a Reader’s Choice winner for 10 years. Nic, the son of Carol and Rick, is the next generation winemaker and has received awards for his winemaking skills.
RÖblleR VineyaRd & WineRy
Come enjoy this beautiful view of the rolling hills in the heart of wine country. At RÖbller Vineyard, you can relax with plenty of patio, pavilion and indoor seating, complete with a fireplace for the cooler months. Bring your favorite picnic goodies to enjoy with European-inspired estate-grown and -bottled wines. Complimentary wine tastings are also available. 275 Röbller Vineyard Road, new Haven, MO 63068 573.237.3986 | robllerwines.com
SomerSet Wine trail
Fall is the perfect time to get off the beaten path and explore the wineries of the Somerset Wine Trail! Located in the rolling hills of Miami County, Kansas, just 25 minutes south of Overland Park, each winery brings its own signature style to their handproduced, artisan wines from grape varieties specially selected for our region. Enjoy a tasting at Somerset Ridge, NightHawk or Middle Creek Wineries. Or tour with MiamiCountyTrolley.com. 29725 Somerset road, Paola, KS 66071 somersetridge.com
Over the years, Balducci Vineyards has earned a reputation for serving fine wines with distinctive varietal character and flavor. Balducci’s has become one of Missouri’s success stories by producing and selling great wines at great values. Because their vineyards are on site, they are uniquely positioned to access and source select lots of grapes at the peak of their perfection. This affords them tremendous consistency from vintage to vintage, and enables them to deliver premium quality wines for you to enjoy throughout the year. The winery and kitchen are open daily with live music on the weekends. Balducci Vineyards also serves as a beautiful backdrop for weddings and private events. The rustic, historic farm setting has sweeping views of rolling, thickly-wooded hills and open meadows. Surrounded by the vineyards and beautifully landscaped property, the handsome tasting room and rustic, old barn, the property can accommodate groups of all sizes. 6601 Highway 94 south augusta, MO 63332 636.482.VinO (8466) balducciswinery andrestaurant.com
EDGEWILD RESTAURANT & WINERY
Washington State to produce and release more than 20 varietals of It may not be situated in wine country, but it delivers the ultimate wine country experience. Led by executive chef Aaron EdgeWild name-and-label wine. Baggett, EdgeWild is a popular destination in the heart of EdgeWild’s list of domestic and Chesterfield, serving inventive American cuisine and fine wine. international wines is extensive, A bonded winery with custom-made French and Missouri oak ranging from powerhouse wineries’ barrels operates on its 10,000 square foot premise, producing heavy hitters to rare, delicious more than 2,000 new finds. bottles annually. EdgeWild also partners 550 Chesterfield Center, directly with awardwinning, notable high- Chesterfield, MO 63017 edgewildwinery.com end winemakers in California, Oregon and 636.532.0550 Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
41
CHAMPAGNE & CAVIAR.
If you have a taste for the finer things in life, make sure they’re beautifully lit. You’ll find elegant choices at the Wilson Lighting Showrooms in Clayton, MO, and Overland Park, KS. S I N C E 19 7 5 CLAYTON, MO 909 S. Brentwood Blvd 314-222-6300 OVERLAND PARK, KS 10530 Marty 913-642-1500
WILSONLIGHTING.COM
L I G H T I N G
The Shrine reSTauranT
German Menu
STARTERS Bratwurst Bruschetta | German Potato Pancakes ENTREES Pork Schnitzel Duet | Sauerbraten Cabbage Rolls | Chicken Schnitzel DESSERTS German Chocolate Cake & Black Forest Cake
Try a Hofbräu München beerpure pleasure!
Call
for reservations
Belleville, IL
618-394-6237
SNOWS.ORG/REST 42
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
shop here
find trick-or-treat fuel on p. 44 PhotograPhy by cheryl Waller
shOp here
stl
how sweet is this written by Macy SalaMa
CLAYTON, MO. when Katy Morris, owner of How Sweet
Is This (previously Oh lolli lolli), talks about her shop, her customers and what she does at work each day, she describes it all in the same way: “it’s just so much fun.” the walls of the 300-square-foot shop reflect the sentiment, filled top to bottom with an assortment of colored candies, which Morris says imparts “a little dose of willy wonka.”
PHOtOGraPHy by cHeryl waller
How Sweet is this stocks old-fashioned favorites as well as all-natural, vegan and kosher candies. Gummy bears, bubble gum and syrups (for the shop’s shaved ice) are made with real sugar, no food coloring and come in all-natural flavors. Morris believes that customers who adhere to strict diets or have dietary restrictions should have options for the sweeter things in life, too. “we offer candies that are not only a treat that you can feel confident giving to children, but also they’re delectable for anybody,” she says. Morris loves seeing all the generations of customers – from older folks who reminisce over the shop’s collection of nostalgic candies (think saltwater taffy and bazooka bubble Gum) to young children who strategically spend every penny of their allowance. How Sweet is this also serves baked goods like hot pretzel bites as well as seasonal treats such as its shaved ice and Pacific Valley Dairy soft-serve ice cream, available through the month of October, plus hot chocolate with your choice of toppings beginning in november. How Sweet Is This, 804 Demun Ave., Clayton, Missouri, 314.721.9600, howsweetisthis.com
Three MusT-Trys aT how sweeT Is ThIs | 1 | “Shaved ice comes out as soft as snow – there is no thickness to it,” Morris says. the shop’s more than 30 syrups are made in-house with real sugar, including flavors like tiger’s blood (strawberry-coconut), bubble gum, pink lemonade and vanilla. the shop also offers more unique flavors such as chamoy, a Spanish apricot-lime-chile condiment.
| 2 | Morris’ chocolate-toffee pistachios have a soft crunch followed by a velvety texture imparted by powdered sugar. Morris says the pistachios – dipped in toffee, then chocolate, then rolled in powdered sugar – make this treat something everyone should try, even if they aren’t fans of pistachios.
geT This gAdgeT
charles viancin cabbage colander & steamer written by laura laiben, “tHe Main DiSH,” tHe culinary center Of KanSaS city, Kcculinary.cOM
this colander isn’t only for cabbage – it’s just shaped like it. Steam, cook or reheat all in one. its built-in handles allow you to easily pick the colander up to remove it from a hot pot or oven. the large size makes it practical as a traditional colander, plus it rolls up for efficient storage. For more details or to purchase the colander and steamer, visit charlesviancin.com. PHOtOS cOurteSy cHarleS Viancin
44
feastmagazine.com
oCToBer 2015
| 3 | customers get hooked on the shop’s selection
of gummy bears, Morris says, due to the breadth of flavor options. Popular flavors include grapefruit, peach, wild cherry, strawberry-banana and pineapple.
Celebrating 200 years History, tradition and Progress
the shRine RestauRant if you are looking for a casual dining experience, the shrine restaurant is the perfect place. serving lunch and dinner and an excellent sunday Brunch. For something unique, try our new german menu which is sure to please. Browse the website for hours and lunch and dinner menus. 442 south De Mazenod Dr., Belleville, iL 62223 618.394.6237 www.snows.org/rest
Righteous Pig
nationaL shRine oF ouR LaDy oF the snoWs the national shrine of our Lady of the snows, known for its beautiful landscaped devotional sites, is loved by many in the metro-east st. Louis area and beyond. over one million visitors from around the world visit annually to deepen their relationship with god and one another. grounds open daily from 6 a.m. – 10 p.m.
Creating magic with food.the righteous Pig has a passion for food with a desire to create a memorable dining experience for food lovers! Come and experience a menu that includes Cuban, housemade hop and pepper pickles, pulled pork, pork belly pastrami honey chipotle mustard. Local craft beer, ciders and wine! 124 e. Main st., Belleville, iL 62220 618-520-8817 www.righteouspigbbq.com
442 south De Mazenod Dr., Belleville, iL 62223 618.397.6700
gRaPPa gRoWLeRs grappa growlers is a unique beer, wine, and gift establishment where you can sip on a glass of house wine, open your favorite bottle of wine from the store, or enjoy one of eight rotating craft beers on tap. While you’re there, you can also peruse the gift shop offering customizable baskets, personalized labels, local products and more. With more than 500 global wines and 150 beers and spirits, you are sure to find something that tantalizes your taste buds. Beer and wine tastings are held every other Wednesday from 5 - 7 pm. 1501 n. Belt West, Belleville, iL 62226 618-234-9463 www.grappagrowlers.com
heaRthsiDe gRiLL & FiRePLace Come to Hearthside grill & Fireplace for the most comprehensive selection of Big green eggs and eggcessories in the st. Louis area.
gRiMM & goRLy FLoRist PouR coFFeehouse & cuPcakes too
Located in the heart of downtown Belleville, they offer fresh grinds & sweet treats, supplying a one-stop-shop with local flair. order a caffeinated, or not so caffeinated, beverage with your choice of house-made sweets to kick-off any morning or afternoon craving. Find yourself surrounded by a creativitydriven atmosphere, flush with fresh flowers for the taking and home decor accents sure to inspire the uninspired. you're invited to make yourself at home with grimm & gorly Florist. 322 and 324 e Main street, Belleville, iL 62220 618.234.4455 and 618.234.4466
the Big green egg stands alone as the most versatile barbecue or outdoor cooking product on the market, with more capabilities than all other conventional cookers combined. From appetizers to entrees to desserts, the Big green egg will exceed all of your expectations for culinary perfection … and with seven convenient sizes to choose from, there is a Big green egg to fit any lifestyle! Hearthside is located one block east of the Fairgrounds in Belleville. 418 south Belt east, Belleville, iL 62220 618.257.0700 www.hearthsidegrill.com
haPPy hoP hoMeBReW & gouRMet Happy Hop Homebrew & gourmet is more than just a brew shop. in addition to offering the Metro east's beer brewers and wine makers an extensive inventory of supplies and ingredients to practice their craft, they've included a wide selection of gifts, foodie items, natural products, and locally crafted wares. Have one of their knowledgeable staff help you craft your very own delicious beer or wine recipe, check out their full line of essential oils, or simply enjoy the inviting aroma of hand crafted soaps and aromatherapy products. Located in the heart of historic downtown Belleville, Happy Hop is the place for that person on your gift list you thought had everything. 122 e. Main street, Belleville, iL 62220 618-277-2550 www.happyhophomebrew.com
the aBBey at the abbey, you'll enjoy a wide variety of craft beers, handcrafted cocktails and wines. For those with discerning tastes, compliment the chef’s specials and unique menu selections. open daily for coffee, breakfast and lunch. dinner is served every thursday and Friday evening. Live music and patio dining around an open fire nestled among the pines creates a perfect ambiance for the brisk fall evenings. 5801 W Main st, Belleville, iL 62226 618.277.8373 www.thebellevilleabbey.com Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
45
one on one
stl
martin casas
founder, st. louis swap meet
Written by bethany Christo
ST. LOUIS. Californians go to swap meets all
the time. Midwesterners do, too – but here it’s called a flea market. along with thrift and repurposed goods, artisan products, handmade crafts, antiques and discarded items alike, about 30 of the 110 or so weekly vendors at the St. Louis Swap Meet sell food and drinks, including no name bbQ – run by a chef who trained under Gerard Craft – as well as Kakao Chocolate, Juan More tamale, Clementine’s naughty or nice Creamery, food trucks, fresh produce and more. Founders Martin Casas and Chris Geden say the sunday-only market located at the old Lemp brewery fills a gap for small businesses to incubate before opening brick-and-mortars (many of them on nearby Cherokee street), for farmers’ market vendors to sell an extra day and for the 4,000 or so thrifters to come to a market where the varied offerings surprise each week and the eats and finds are truly one of a kind.
Photos courtesy of joieshoP
get this gadget
joie kitch devil oven pull written by laura laiben, “the main Dish,” the culinary center of Kansas city, Kcculinary.com
made of heat-tolerant silicone, this handy little utensil adds a whimsical touch to a potentially dangerous situation. just hook the little devil on the oven rack or edge of a cooking dish to keep your digits cool and bring hot items within reach.
Why do you feel this was something St. Louis needed? We have 39 operating farmers’ markets tuesday through saturday – and only three on sunday. Farmers’ markets are a startup and income source for small businesses, and we could help them double their sales, expand faster and eventually open their own shops, all by just operating this swap meet on sunday. Coupled with the fact that Lemp brewery is a magnificent focal point, i thought it would be a perfect complement to the hard work and growth of the pioneers and bootstrap businesses already on Cherokee street. What can you find at the swap meet? you can find anything here, and every week has something new. We’ve got a guy selling Case Coolies, which are designed to keep a case of beer cold for eight hours – no ice needed. We have [people selling] succulents; we have Living the nerd
Life selling comic books and video games. We see shoppers walk by with an antique lamp they bought, along with a brand new purse, plus a hand-sewn apron, drinking a cup of coffee from the rise coffee truck and eating a bag of kettle corn – and that’s what we are. this is something i want to be ingrained in st. Louis culture that people associate with st. Louis – a place for family and friends, for visitors, for locals, for everyone. We’re trying to build a tradition, not just build a business. What are your long-term goals for the swap meet? there are a lot of food producers and farmers who have excess product they want to sell from the saturday markets. eventually, when we move indoors, we want to implement a produce-buyback program – if vendors have produce from a farmers’ market that they didn’t sell on saturday, they bring it to us, and we’ll sell it on sunday at the swap Meet. We need a refrigerated indoor space first, which we can develop in two years or so. besides unsold produce, food past its expiration date or damaged goods – apples with a bruise or an off-color tomato – make up tons and tons of what gets wasted. We could be giving that to schools, homeless shelters, wherever. i think there’s a need; i want to figure out an answer, and i want the st. Louis swap Meet to lead it. Any upcoming events? october is going to be our blowout month, starting oct. 11 and going until nov. 1, with live music, more food, more vendors and just ending on a big note. We’re also planning two winter markets, one in December and one in January, with bonfires, hot chocolate, perfect finds for the holiday season and for showing to visiting relatives. St. Louis Swap Meet, 3500 Lemp Ave., Cherokee Business District, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.827.6428, stlswapmeet.com
For more information or to purchase the oven pull, visit joieshop.com.
“We’re trying to build a tradition, not just build a business. ” Photos courtesy st. louis swaP meet
46
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
culiNaRy liBRaRy
stir by jessica Fechtor, sweetamandine.com written by bethany christo
Part memoir and part cookbook, Stir is author jessica Fechtor’s story of recovery through the restorative power of cooking and baking. Fechtor, who pens the popular food blog, sweet amandine, had a near-death experience when she was just 28 after an aneurysm ruptured in her brain. Stir shares her struggle with blindness and loss of smell, multiple surgeries to fix the infection in her skull and the realization that not all things can be fixed. as she put her life back together, she was often in the kitchen, stirring something at the stove – cooking was the one thing that made her feel whole again. through her story and recipes (such as sweet potatocurry latkes and the butter-almond cake that showed her food can be more than just food), Fechtor inspires us to find home again in the kitchen.
PhotograPhy by jacklyn meyer
aRTisaN pRODucT
With mountainous hillsides to the east and spectacular Pacific sunsets over Banderas Bay to the west, Vallarta and Nayarit provide an exotic blend of vibrant culture, Mexican flavor and nature at her best. Enjoy top-notch hotels, championship golf and incredible beaches. Walk along downtown Puerto Vallarta’s fabulous seafront Malecón and enjoy the open-air cafés, world-class shopping and an active nightlife. Just north of Puerto Vallarta, Riviera Nayarit stretches along nearly 200 miles of Pacific coastline with amazing beaches along Banderas Bay. Apple Vacations offers the most convenient ways to get there with exclusive non-stop vacation flights from St. Louis, and a wide choice of hotels and all-inclusive resorts. One affordable package price buys all! Seafood here is especially remarkable, as it’s caught throughout the coast of Nayarit, and includes shrimp, oysters, tuna, sailfish, marlin, scallops, snapper, and octopus. Everything is fresh as it goes straight from the ocean to your table.
stl
banner road baking co. granola written by bethany christo
BRENTWOOD, MO. Anne Croy’s mantra for Banner Road Baking Co.’s handcrafted
granola is printed on the side of each 14-ounce tin: “[To] give you the world’s best granola. Period. No shortcuts or concessions.” Croy is also the executive pastry chef of Pastaria in Clayton, Missouri, owned by James Beard Award-winning chef Gerard Craft, where she develops the restaurant’s Italian desserts. Banner Road’s three granolas are free of processed and genetically modified ingredients, and are loaded with oats, seeds, quinoa and more. Original is made with Missouri pecans and dried tart cherries. Kick Start features sliced almonds, Askinosie chocolate and Sump Coffee espresso beans. And Bye Bye Blues includes puffed millet, toasted English walnuts and dried blueberries. An online store is coming soon; granola is sold in the St. Louis area at Pastaria, Parker’s Table and Larder & Cupboard. Banner Road Baking Co., bannerroad.com
■ ■ ■
Worlds #1 Vacation Company to Mexico Exclusive non-stop vacation flights from St. Louis Round-trip airport/hotel transfers always included
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
47
ShOp hErE
mo
weston red barn farm
for the first full year, steve worked to restore the old buildings on the farm and built new ones using reclaimed materials. he planted an orchard full of apple trees for picking and a pumpkin
arTiSaN prOducT
patch for customers to select the perfect future jack-o-lantern. in 1990, the Weston Red Barn Farm opened for business. that was 25 years ago, and now the farm operates almost yearround; in the fall, it’s open daily from labor day through early november. weston red barn farm supports local farmers by offering their seasonal produce for sale all week long, including fresh-farm eggs and longhorn beef
available at its old-fashioned country store, complete with creaky pine floors and a pressed tin roof. apple-picking season began at the end of august and runs through the fall, and the freys sell several varieties of pre-picked apples for those who are just ready to get down to the business of making pie. Weston Red Barn Farm, 16300 Wilkerson Road, Weston, Missouri, 816.386.5437, westonredbarnfarm.com
Photos courtesy weston red barn farm
WESTON, MO. when owners steve and cindy frey purchased land in weston, missouri, in 1989, they wanted to recreate the fun experiences and memories of steve’s childhood visits to his uncle’s missouri farm.
written by Jenny Vergara
kc
little bill’s pimento cheese written by Jenny Vergara
uses his grandmother’s recipe to make this crave-worthy Southern spread. It’s made with shredded Cheddar cheese, cream cheese, red peppers and mayonnaise – and not much else. Look for his booth at local farmers’ markets, The Sundry and some area Hy-Vee grocery stores. Choose from original, jalapeño and bacon-flavored pimento cheese spreads. Little Bill’s Pimento Cheese, 816.799.9936, littlebillspimentocheese.com 48
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
PhotograPhy by alistair tutton
kaNSaS ciTy. Little Bill’s Pimento Cheese owner Bill Denney
Welcoming Visitors for Over 200 Years! The Businesses of Historic St. Charles, Missouri Come See What’s Happening This Fall
Magical Gemstone Jewelry
Your Brighton Location
• Mystical Incense • Candles & Crystals Metaphysical & Inspirational Books www.theenchantedatticsite.com
Tap into Jeff’s endless knowledge about beer! Free Samples of UCBC’s Zwickel on tap! Books available from Main Street Books! Join us for a great discussion and great beer!
FREE Gift with Every Purchase! Join Us on Facebook
String Along With Me
The Enchanted Attic
Fashion Accessories Clothing Custom Design
625 South Main Street St Charles, MO 636-947-7740
304 S. Main
(636) 949-9502
manager needed
Now available:
Polish Pottery at Siostra Polish Pottery and Gifts From Boleslawiec Poland
Manager/Cook at a quaint Tea Room and Retail Store on Main Street in St. Charles, MO Upcoming:Apartment for Rent above the shop. Call Maureen Fitzgerald at 314.579.4150 for details
• Hand painted and colorful • Detailed patterns • Dishwasher, Microwave, Freezer & Oven safe to 400 F
MANY GIFT IDEAS! Start a new career!
330 South Main Street St. Charles, MO 63301
329 South Main Street, Historic St. Charles, MO
314/579-4150
Like us on Facebook!
636 925 1480
www.potterystcharlesmo.com
YOUR STORY IS PRECIOUS
Fall into the seasons at Bello Vino...
Warm up with robust red wine selections and seasonal, hand-crafted tapas 325 S Main St, Saint CharleS, MO 63301 www.bellavinOwinebarStl.COM (636) 724-3434
EXPRESS YOURS IN STERLING SILVER AND 14K GOLD. BEAUTIFULLY CRAFTED. SHARE THE #ARTOFYOU SHOWN: DELICATE BANDS IN GENUINE METALS AND PAVÉ FEATHER EARRINGS
207 207 S. S.MAIN MAINSTREET STREET SAINT SAINT CHARLES, CHARLES, MO MO 63301 63301 636.946.2883••WWW.DENMARKSTYLE.NET WWW.DENMARKSTYLE.NET 636.946.2883 © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
49
JOIN Catherine Neville and L’École Culinaire Program Director, Nicole Shuman in Feast Magazine’s Newest Production
best chicken 25 years in a row Learn cooking techniques from two culinary experts.
thank you st. louis
Airing now on feastmagazine.com
2100 Gravois • 314-776-7292 • www.Hodaks.com
Wedding Sets As Unique As Your Love
Join us for brunch on Sundays starting October 25, 10am-2pm
Custom Jewelry Designs by our Three Expert Jewelers
Creating lasting memories for over 34 years www.oldeworldjewelers.com 4614 N. Illinois • Fairview Heights 618.233.2445 Find us on Facebook and Pinterest
50
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
INNOVATIVE AMERICAN USING FRESHEST SEASONAL INGREDIENT S FROM OUR FAVORITE LOCAL FARMS
���� Watson Rd | St Louis | ������������ | jmcarthurs.com
seed to table
fall for autumn flavor on p. 52 photography by jennifer silverberg
seed to table
Butternut and acorn SquaSh SouP with Pan-Fried Sage story and recipe by crystal stevens photography by Jennifer silverberg
after a long, hot summer, the striking colors of autumn leaves, crisp aroma of fall air and chilly temperatures are rejuvenating changes. comforting baking spices such as cinnamon, cardamom and nutmeg flavor the season, as do the root vegetables that overflow at farmers’ markets this time of year. i love the varieties of squash available in autumn; we actually plant winter squash in May, giving them enough time to vine out and mature. standing among a butternut squash patch and seeing hundreds of beige
beauties is certainly one of the many joys of farming. Winter squash start out as single green vibrant plants, tidy in rows, and within weeks create a beautiful green quilt covering the rich soil. the blossoms are bright orange and yellow, and baby squash emerge like magic between stems and blooms. We harvest them during late summer, and they store for a few months. there are several dozen varieties of edible winter squash, but acorn and butternut are a sure bet for your fall dinner table.
Crystal Stevens is a farmer at La Vista CSA Farm on the bluffs of the Mississippi River in Godfrey, Illinois, where she farms with her husband, Eric. They have two children. Crystal is an advocate of integrating creativity into sustainability through writing, art, photojournalism and seed-to-table cooking. Find more of her work at growingcreatinginspiring.blogspot.com, which she created to launch her forthcoming book, grow create inspire.
Thick Butternut and Acorn Squash Soup with Pan-Fried Sage You can also pan-fry sage in butter for a richer flavor. Serves | 6 | 1 butternut squash, cut in half lengthwise and deseeded 1 acorn squash, cut in half lengthwise and deseeded 6 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided 6 small pumpkins, tops removed and reserved, deseeded 1 onion, sliced and caramelized 3 cups coconut milk 1 Tbsp sea salt 1 Tbsp freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp ground nutmeg, plus more for garnish ½ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground cardamom ¼ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp ground sage 12 to 20 fresh sage leaves
| Preparation | preheat oven to 425°f. grease a baking sheet and set aside. cut butternut and acorn squash into quarters and place in a mixing bowl. drizzle with 2 tbsp olive oil and place on prepared baking sheet. transfer to oven to bake for 20 to 30 minutes or until tender. remove from oven and allow to cool to room temperature. transfer pumpkins to a separate baking sheet and brush insides of each with olive oil. set pumpkin tops aside for later use. bake pumpkins for 15 to 20 minutes or until tender. While pumpkins are baking, in a food processor or blender, combine cooled acorn and butternut squash, caramelized onions, coconut milk and spices and blend for 2 minutes or until thick and creamy. you can add more coconut milk to achieve your desired texture; for a thinner consistency add more milk. transfer soup to a large pot with a lid over medium heat and simmer to keep warm. When pumpkins are tender, remove from oven. fill each pumpkin with soup and cover with pumpkin tops to keep warm. in a skillet over medium heat, heat remaining olive oil and pan-fry sage leaves until slightly golden and crispy, taking care not to burn. top each serving of soup with 2 fried sage leaves and a dusting of nutmeg. serve.
OPEN
Home
decor outlets Has been contracted by top manufacturers to sell off existing inventory
HOUSE
TM
ATTENTION DEALERS:
MUST REGISTER & SHOW TAX I.D & RESALE NUMBERS
FREE LAYAWAY!
Made in AMERICA
YOUR CHOICE
199
$
Microfiber Sectional
Ea. Pc.
*Take Home Today for $49 down!
*Take Home Today for $49 down!
3 Piece Queen Bed DISCOUNTED OUNTED SOFAS
$
Sofa only
4-Poster Emperor up Queen Bed
3-Pc. Rug Set
499
$
499
1899
$
5- Piece Dining Set $
199
$
299
$
CHIRO-EXTRA
29
$29 Ea. Pc. TWIN $49 Ea. Pc. FULL
SLEEP REST
89
$
Mon & Fri 10a-8p Wed, Thu 11a-7p Tue,, W Sat 10a-6p Sun 12-6p
$
79
HAZELWOOD 8780 PERSHALL RD
314-522-8886
25-Yr. Ltd. Warranty
99
$
$59 Ea. Pc. TWIN $74 Ea. Pc. FULL
$99 Ea. Pc. TWIN $129 Ea. Pc. FULL $145 Ea. Pc. QUEEN $126 Ea. Pc. KING
FAIRVIEW HEIGHTS 100 COMMERCE LN
EURO-LUX PILLOWTOP
15-Yr. Ltd. Warranty
69
$
$84 Ea. Pc. TWIN $99 Ea. Pc. FULL $129 Ea. Pc. QUEEN $109 Ea. Pc KING
CHIRO-PEDIC
10-Yr. Ltd. Warranty
59
20-Yr. Ltd. Warranty
84
$
5-Yr. Ltd. Warranty
SLEEP ULTRA
199
299
FAMOUS POSTURE SERIES
$ QUEEN PILLOWTOP $ CHIRO-EXTRA
Futon Sofa
3pc Y Youth outh Bed
SLEEP FIRM
$
5999
$
FREE LAYAWAY!
BLACK, CHERRY, MERLOT, OAK, WHITE
QUEEN SIZE MATTRESS
2x3•2x6•5x8
*Take Home Today for $49 down!
King size also on sale
•
FROM
199
$
Complete 11 -pc bedroom set
to
COLORS 3 Pieces 5 Finishes HEADBOARD, CHEST & BEDFRAME
39
*Take Home Today for $49 down!
399
$
Sofa only
Self-Stick Tile 12"x12" ¢ from
$69 Ea. Pc. TWIN $89 Ea. Pc. FULL $105 Ea. Pc. QUEEN
104
$
(sold in sets)
618-394-0833
25-Yr. Ltd. Warranty
$104 Ea. Pc. TWIN $139 Ea. Pc. FULL $149 Ea. Pc. QUEEN $133 Ea. Pc. KING
ST. LOUIS
4650 LANSDOWNE
314-832-5300
*on our no credit cHeck plan
A HOME DECOR LIQUIDATORS COMPANY • NO CREDIT CHECK FINANCING• w w w. h d o u t l e t s . c o m
St. Louis’ Oldest Subaru Dealer Since 1972
Webster Groves subaru 2016 Subaru Outback 2.5i
2016 Subaru Forester 2.5i
New
New
1.9
%
APR Available
From
Model GFB-01
$22,938*
1.9
%
APR Available
From
Model GDB-01
$24,349*
Webster Groves subaru
*Special financing available to qualified buyers with approved credit. Must finance through SMFC. See dealer for details.
If you’re thinking Subaru think
Big Bend @ Murdoch • 314.968.5167 • www.wgsis.coM
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
53
mystery shopper
MeeT: BeeT Sugar Syrup They do their best to hide it, but beets have a sweet side, and it’s time you knew about it. What Is It?
Beet sugar syrup is simply the juice of the sugar beet that’s been boiled down into a viscous, garnet-toned molasses. An alternative to the sugarcane-based molasses that graces grocery store shelves, this lesser-known offering is most popular in Eastern Europe, where most of it is produced. The syrup’s flavor is surprisingly neutral, save for a saccharine hit, and lives somewhere between sorghum syrup and dark corn syrup.
SToRy AnD RECIPE By ShAnnon WEBER PhoToGRAPhy By JEnnIFER SIlvERBERG
What Do I Do WIth It?
Being utterly devoid of the earthy flavor associated with beets is part of the syrup’s appeal: The straightforward sugariness makes beet sugar syrup the ideal blank canvas for other flavors to enhance. Get creative with a little acid and spice and use it as a glaze base for chicken, beef, pork or root vegetables, or do as the Europeans do and spread it right onto a sandwich. When using it in baking, it’s an easy 1:1 substitute for sugarcane molasses, corn syrup or honey in most recipes. In traditional gingerbread, it stays in the background while the spices shine through.
Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as Bon Appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and in life.
Sticky Curried Chicken Wings Make these as an appetizer for a crowd; the recipe is easily multiplied. Stagger a double recipe by five minutes to work on one pan while the other is finishing, and everything will come out hot at the end. Serves | 6 to 8 | 1½
Tbsp olive oil, plus more for oiling pan 2 lbs chicken wings, rinsed, patted dry and separated at the joint into 2 pieces sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp melted unsalted butter 2 Tbsp beet sugar syrup 2½ tsp soy sauce 1½ tsp chile-garlic sauce 2 tsp curry powder ½ tsp ground ginger pinch ground cayenne pepper 1 tsp kosher salt ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper zest of 1 lime juice of 1 lime, divided 1 to 2 Tbsp roughly chopped fresh cilantro leaves
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Rub a lipped sheet pan with olive oil. In a large bowl, toss chicken wings in 1½ Tbsp olive oil until evenly coated; season generously with sea salt and pepper. Spread out in single layer on prepared pan, giving each segment space to cook evenly. Bake for 30 minutes; remove and use tongs to turn wings over to opposite side. Increase oven heat to 400°F and place back in oven; bake for another 25 minutes. While chicken is baking, in a large bowl, combine melted butter, beet sugar syrup, soy sauce, chile-garlic sauce, curry powder, ginger, cayenne pepper, kosher salt, black pepper and lime zest. Whisk together; squeeze in juice from half of lime (reserving other half for serving) and stir to incorporate. Remove chicken from oven and transfer to butter mixture; toss thoroughly to coat. Chicken should take on about half of butter mixture. Transfer chicken back to hot pan and place in oven for 5 minutes to caramelize glaze. Remove from oven and toss again in remaining butter mixture. Set aside.
| To Serve | Transfer wings to a large serving tray. Drizzle any remaining mixture over top. Squeeze remaining lime juice over top and garnish with cilantro leaves. Serve immediately.
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
55
menu options
Pan-Fried SalMon wiTh wild MuShrooMS and Corn
SToRy AND ReCIpe By GABRIelle DeMIChele phoToGRAphy By JeNNIfeR SIlveRBeRG
Salmon is one of the most commonly eaten fish in North America. Some of the best choices for sustainably fished or farmed salmon are Atlantic salmon caught in Canada, the U.S. and Denmark; pink salmon caught in Canada; sockeye salmon caught in Alaska and Canada; and coho salmon, also known as silver salmon, caught in Alaska, according to the
Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch. Regular coho salmon season spans from early fall to midwinter, and coho is one of the best fish for grilling and frying, as its firm-yet-juicy texture can hold up well to more intense heat.
cheF’S tiPS FEEL THE HEAT. preheating pans until you can feel the heat
PAN-TASTIC. Known as the Maillard reaction, you should
from 2 inches away will turn them into the perfect, nonstick skillet for whatever you’re cooking.
always cook meat or fish long enough to allow amino acids to form a seal and for some caramelization to occur so you will no longer have to pry it off the bottom of the pan.
the menu • Raw Root Vegetable Salad • Garlic-Sauteéd Spinach • Smashed Potatoes • Pan-Fried Salmon with Shiitake Mushrooms and Corn • Maple-Apple Upside-Down Cake
LEArN MorE. In this class you’ll learn how to perfectly
pan-fry salmon so that the outside is flaky and the inside is tender and creamy. you’ll also learn how to make simple and seasonal maple-apple upside-down cake.
get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., oct. 21, at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.
Pan-Fried Salmon Serves | 6 | 12 1½ 1 2 1 5 1 1 2⁄3 1⁄3 8 1½ 2 1½ 2
Tbsp unsalted butter, divided cups thinly sliced sweet onion lb wild mushrooms, stems removed and reserved, caps quartered tomatoes, chopped tsp tomato paste cloves garlic (3 sliced, 2 smashed) tsp whole black peppercorns tsp pickling spice cup water cup white balsamic vinegar salt and freshly ground black pepper Tbsp grapeseed oil, divided lbs spinach, destemmed cups fresh corn kernels lbs center-cut salmon fillets, sliced crosswise into 6 portions finely chopped scallions
| Preparation | Cut 6 Tbsp butter into ½-inch dice. Transfer to refrigerator. In a saucepan over medium heat, melt 2 Tbsp butter. Add next 7 ingredients (including mushroom stems, but not caps, or 3 sliced garlic cloves) and cook until soft, about 14 minutes. Add water and vinegar and increase heat to medium high. Stir and allow to reduce by half, or until liquid is almost syrupy. Reduce heat to low and remove 6 Tbsp diced butter from refrigerator. Whisk butter into sauce, 2 to 3 pieces at a time. Season with salt and pepper. Using a fine sieve, strain sauce into a pan and keep warm; discard solids. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat 2 Tbsp grapeseed oil until it just begins to smoke. Add smashed garlic, spinach and 2 Tbsp butter and toss until wilted. Season with salt and pepper, drain and remove garlic from skillet. Cover skillet to keep warm. In a separate skillet over high heat, add 2 Tbsp oil and 2 Tbsp butter. Add mushroom caps and cook until seared, 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium. Add corn, cooking until tender. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and cover. In a separate skillet over high heat, heat 4 Tbsp oil. Season salmon with salt and pepper and place, skin-side down, in skillet, then immediately reduce heat to medium low. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, then flip and cook other side for 45 seconds; remove from skillet. Transfer salmon to a platter, tent with foil and allow to rest for 3 to 5 minutes. Divide spinach onto 6 plates. Add corn and mushrooms. Set salmon, skin-side down, on top of spinach. Top with sauce and scallions. Serve.
TV
WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., Oct. 10 at 2pm and Mon., Oct. 12 at 1:30pm. Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., Oct. 17 at 2:30pm.
You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) on Sat., Oct. 17 at 4pm and on Thu., Oct. 22 at 7:30pm.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) at 10am on Sat., Oct. 3.
Fall for October with this month’s Feast TV episode. We will visit a local ranch where heritage breed hogs are humanely raised and slaughtered, and the resulting bacon, sausage, meatballs and charcuterie are raising the bar across the state. Then, it’s off to Mizzou for tailgating secrets from one of St. Louis’ favorite chefs, John Perkins of Juniper. Next up, we take a tour of a fully restored and fully functional 1840 grist mill that produces stoneground grits and cornmeal. And finally, we take beer from grain to glass at a homebrew shop in Kansas City.
We’ve got the craft beers you’re looking for, including an impressive selection brewed right here in St. Louis! Try local brews like Schlafly Pumpkin, Urban Chestnut Zwickel or O’Fallon Wheach. For events, ask about ordering keg beer. Check in-store for craft beer tastings!
For a list of our Certified Beer Servers, visit schnucks.com And, follow Certified Beer Server Chris Wong @SpiritsSipsSuds and Certified Cicerone® Chris Kline @SchnucksBeerGuy!
Feast TV is presented by Missouri Wines with additional support from Whole Foods Market.
©2015 Schnucks
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
57
sweet ideas
PoacHed aPPleS witH Hot Buttered rum Sauce Hot buttered rum has been used as a cure-all in the U.S. since Colonial times. Although it’s more often thought of as an elixir to ward off the chill of winter, I think it’s a great way to flavor one of my favorite fall treats: poached apples. Firm and not overripe apples are best to use for poaching; I like Fuji, Honeycrisp or Jonagold. Red and Golden Delicious should be avoided due to their tendency to get mushy when cooked. Poaching liquid can be prepared in advance and, even better, holds for up to a month in the refrigerator. I suggest using
whole baking spices such as cardamom, star anise, allspice or cloves. Use remaining liquid to poach and store more apples, or heat it to sip by a bonfire. I’ve incorporated my favorite streusel recipe into this dish, too; bake it all and eat any leftovers as a snack, or keep the raw crumbles in the freezer to sprinkle on top of muffins, pies or cobblers. Chilled poached apples can also be baked into crumb cakes, tarts or your favorite tea cake – visit feastmagazine.com to find my recipe for an almond frangipane that’s an excellent tea cake batter for folding poached apples into.
Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.
StoRy AnD ReCIPe by CHRISty AUGUStIn PHotoGRAPHy by CHeRyl WAlleR
Poached Apples & More Serves | 6 | Poached aPPles
6 2 2 3 1½ 1 1 2 ½
juice of 1 lemon, divided apples, peeled and cut in half cups brown sugar tbsp honey qts apple cider or water cups dark rum tbsp whole baking spices (see left) tsp black peppercorns sticks cinnamon tsp grated nutmeg
Baked streusel
¾ ½ ¼ ¾ 1 ½ ½
cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup granulated sugar cup brown sugar tsp kosher salt cup rolled oats cup coarsely chopped walnuts pinch ground cardamom cup chilled cubed butter
rum sauce
¼ 2
cup brown sugar tbsp unsalted butter
| Preparation – Poached Apples | In a large bowl, combine juice of half a lemon and fill ¾ with water. Core apples from bottom, leave stems with apple halves. Reserve cores and peels. Place apples in lemon water. Set aside. In a 5-quart saucepot, combine next 8 ingredients with cores and peels. Squeeze in remaining lemon juice and add lemon wedges. bring mixture to a boil, stir and simmer for 30 minutes. Allow to steep for 1 hour at room temperature. Strain and discard solids. Set 2 cups liquid aside for rum sauce. Add remaining strained liquid and apples into large pot over medium-low heat. bring to a simmer and cook 20 to 30 minutes. Apples are finished when a paring knife slips easily into flesh.
| Preparation – Baked Streusel | Preheat oven to 350°F. line a sheet tray with parchment paper and set aside. In a medium bowl, combine first 7 ingredients. Add cold butter and mix by hand, smashing cubes into mixture until combined and crumbly. Spread mixture onto prepared tray and bake for 18 to 20 minutes. Set aside to cool.
| Preparation – Rum Sauce | In a small saucepot over medium-high heat, reduce reserved 2 cups poaching liquid with brown sugar until 1⁄3 cup remains. Remove from heat, add butter, stir to combine and allow to cool. | To Serve | Divide apples into 6 bowls. top with streusel and sauce. Serve with your favorite ice cream.
Located in the heart of Kansas City, Waldo is a walkable, bikeable neighborhood filled with everything from boutiques to bakeries and day spas to nightlife.
waldomo.com
J
J
J
THE WELL
LEW’S GRILL & BAR
Providing KC with traditional and unique drinks, baked goods, and other treats with a local focus. People and planet friendly.
Try our new, chef-prepared grill menu and freshly inspired cocktails.
Home of Lew’s Das Boot®! with 84 oz. of your favorite draft beer. Now featuring great new menu items with many old favorites, too.
7408 WORNALL RD. onemorecupkc.com
7421 BROADWAY ST. waldowell.com
7539 WORNALL RD. lewsgrillandbar.com
ONE MORE CUP
BAR GRILL ROOFTOP
restaurants.
United. Join todaY
Providing
expert advice, education, and discounts for our members
Promoting and Protecting
Showing
the economic interests of the Missouri restaurant industry
strength in numbers by coming together with a united voice
morestaurants.org | 877-413-7029 Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
59
s e t i r o Fav aus
Sch o’s Scott n i s a C od Hollywo a Fall Favorite Up Serves Q. What about the Mint Martini makes it a fall and winter favorite? A. It’s more of a liquid dessert than anything else… The Martini is a seasonal, sweet indulgence.
Serves | 1 | 1 oz Bailey’s Irish cream ½ oz dark or light creme de cacao ½ oz peppermint Schnapps ice chocolate syrup ½ oz dark green crème de menthe whipped cream (optional)
| Preparation | In a mixing tin, combine Bailey’s Irish cream, creme de cacao and peppermint Schnapps. Drizzle chocolate syrup along the rim of a Martini glass. Pour mixed cocktail into Martini glass and top with room temperature crème de menthe. Top cocktail off with a spot of whipped cream, and enjoy this fall indulgence.
TM
THE FOX THEATRE • NOVEMBER 6-8 314-534-1111 • METROTIX.COM MammaMiaNorthAmerica.com
Expressions is “Home for the Holidays” Order yO new furn ur by nOvem iture ber and we’l 2nd, deliver b l the hOlidefOre ays!
314.567.6200 7817 Clayton Road, St. Louis, MO 63117 MON THRU FRI 10-6, SATURDAY 10-5 expressionsfurniturestl.com 60
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
©LITTLESTAR
It’s important to use room temperature crème de menthe so it settles at the bottom of the glass, creating a layered Martini.
| 62 |
battle of the cornbreads
| 66 |
catch the tigers by the tailgate
| 76 |
hog heaven
| 85 |
behind the wheel
| 90 |
Pastry chef Simone Faure digs into a culinary controversy: Northern vs. Southern cornbread, and which is correct. Chef John Perkins dishes out Southern-inspired recipes for fueling your next tailgate. Circle B Ranch offers flavorful pasture-raised pork and a little slice of porcine paradise in southern Missouri. Nearly 200 years old, Britain Mill is once again grinding up cornmeal and grits thanks to one dedicated couple. best of the rest
Eight recipes celebrating the snacks, sides and sweets that accompany Southern suppers.
PhotogRaPhy oF PigS at CiRClE B RaNCh iN SEyMouR, MiSSouRi, By JENNiFER SilvERBERg
Written by Simone Faure, co-o co-oWner, la patiSSerie chouquette
as a kid, no matter where i was or what i was doing, the aroma of hot and fresh cornbread wafting through the thick louisiana air was all i needed to be coaxed to the dinner table. Served alongside a heaping pot of red beans and rice or collard greens with ham hocks, i would often save the cornbread for last, wrapping it in a napkin and sneaking it back to my bedroom to devour it alone, all the while pretending it was an indulgent slice of cake – and it certainly wasn’t far off. cornbread is considered a staple in many Southern homes, and everyone has an opinion on it. is it sweet, or is it savory? Do you add sugar or molasses? Should
Yankee Cornbread Baking time varies based on your oven and the bakeware you use. Cornbread typically takes 30 to 40 minutes to bake. Bake until a toothpick can be inserted and removed dry. Yields | 9-by-13-inch pan | 1½ 2½ 2 1 1 1⁄3 2 ½
cups yellow cornmeal cups milk cups all-purpose flour Tbsp baking powder tsp salt cup granulated sugar eggs cup vegetable oil
| Preparation | preheat oven to 350°F. grease a 9-by-13inch baking pan and set aside. in a small bowl, combine cornmeal and milk; let stand for 5 minutes. in a separate bowl, whisk together all remaining ingredients. add cornmeal mixture to bowl and whisk until all ingredients are thoroughly combined. pour batter into prepared pan and bake until cornbread is golden and firm to the touch, about 30 to 40 minutes. remove from oven and serve warm.
| photography by j. pollack photography
you add actual corn kernels, cheese, peppers or even bacon? it can be confusing. throw in all of the cornbread derivatives – from hush puppies and johnnycakes to cornpone and, dare i say, coush coush, a creole version of polenta – and you’ve got a real debate on your hands. it’s not often that i draw a line in the sand and make absolute distinctions between different styles of pastries, desserts and baked treats and which is best or correct, but when it comes to cornbread, i definitely have an opinion. throughout history there have been many famous rivalries: the hatfields and the mccoys, the notorious b.i.g. and 2pac, and yes, northern cornbread
verses Southern cornbread. never has one debate taken up so much of my attention and time as this specific culinary controversy. a quick google search will tell you that Southern cornbread is oftentimes devoid of any sugar, while its northern counterpart is light, sweet, buttery and cakelike. Well, i’m here to tell you that that’s a bunch of bologna. i have never been to a home in the South where sweet cornbread wasn’t served – it’s blasphemy! (and i’m not talking about in texas, where cornbread is often made with chile peppers and onions; that’s a whole other ballgame.)
.
You’re probably thinking, "Well if we can’t trust Google, how on earth will we ever know the difference?" I’ve done quite a lot of cornbread research and recipe development over the years – most recently at my bakery, La Patisserie Chouquette, and at Old Standard Fried Chicken, both in St. Louis, where I developed two cornbread recipes – one for Yankee Cornbread (or, Northern-inspired) and the other for Real Cornbread (Southern-inspired, naturally). In addition to the two varieties served at Old Standard Fried Chicken, I prepare and sell my grandma Bernice’s cornbread at Chouquette. My grandma couldn’t cook to save her life – in fact, my grandpa Charlie would return
home each evening from a hard day’s work and begin preparing his own meals, as he refused to take a chance on her cooking – but cornbread was the exception. Grandma Bernice’s cornbread was magical. She would combine the brightest yellow cornmeal (delivered to her front door on the back of a fresh seafood truck) and the softest flour with eggs, sugar, milk, baking powder and bacon grease, which she kept in a metal tin on top of the oven. She never measured anything and mixed every bit with her bare hands. We make a version of her cornbread with smoked bacon and Cheddar. It’s available daily at the bakery, and we also sell the frozen batter so customers can bake it themselves at home.
Aside from being sweeter than Northern cornbread, the Southern variety can be made with white or yellow cornmeal, has a buttery finish and calls for more eggs, which produces a cakelike texture. Northern cornbread, on the other hand, isn’t very sweet and is made with fewer eggs and yellow cornmeal to achieve a crumbly texture. Find out, once and for all, which version you prefer (or let dinner guests duke it out) by making Yankee cornbread and Southern cornbread, as well as my takes on three popular cornbread variations – johnnycakes, zucchini-corn fritters and jalapeño-Cheddar spoon bread – a version of cornbread similar to bread pudding.
Southern Cornbread Baking time varies based on your oven and the bakeware you use. Cornbread typically takes 30 to 40 minutes to bake. Bake until a toothpick can be inserted and removed dry. Yields | 9-by-13-inch pan | 2 1½ 4 1½ 1 1½ 1½ ¾
cups all-purpose flour cups yellow or white cornmeal eggs cups granulated sugar cup vegetable oil tsp baking soda tsp salt tsp baking powder melted butter
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-by-13inch baking pan. In a large bowl, whisk flour with cornmeal and set aside. In a separate bowl, combine eggs, sugar, oil, baking soda, salt and baking powder. Pour batter into flour mixture and whisk just until flour disappears. Pour batter into prepared pan and transfer to oven. Bake until a toothpick can be inserted and removed with large, soft crumbs, about 30 to 40 minutes. Remove cornbread from oven and brush with melted butter while still warm. Serve.
November November 7th 7th from from 6-10pm 6-10pm @ @ The The Luminary Luminary
Johnnycakes Yields | 2 dozen small cakes | 2½ 1 1 2½ 1 ½ ¼ 2 3 3 1
cups buttermilk cup cornmeal bacon fat or butter cup all-purpose flour tsp baking powder tsp baking soda tsp salt cup granulated sugar large eggs Tbsp vegetable oil Tbsp applesauce cup cooked corn kernels
| Preparation | In a medium bowl, whisk together buttermilk and cornmeal. Coat a nonstick skillet or griddle with bacon fat and preheat to medium heat. In a bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In cornmeal mixture, stir in sugar, eggs, oil and applesauce. Gently whisk in flour mixture and stir just until combined. Add corn. Batter should be slightly lumpy. Pour ¼ cup mixture onto preheated griddle. Flip pancake when bubbles start to appear on surface and bottom is golden. Cook opposite side until golden. Repeat until batter is gone. Serve warm.
Jalapeño-Cheddar Spoon Bread Serves | 5 to 7| 4 1¼ 1⁄3 ¾ 6 2 2 2 ½
Tbsp unsalted butter, divided cups milk cup plus 2 Tbsp yellow cornmeal tsp salt oz grated Cheddar cheese cloves garlic, minced jalapeños, seeded and diced eggs tsp freshly ground black pepper
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease an 8-by-8 baking dish with 1 Tbsp butter and set aside. In a medium saucepan, add milk and bring to a boil. Whisk in cornmeal and salt and continue to whisk until mixture thickens. Remove from heat and stir in cheese, garlic, jalapeños and 2 Tbsp butter. Continue to stir until most of the steam has escaped from mixture. Beat in eggs, 1 at a time, until fully incorporated. Add pepper. Pour mixture into prepared baking dish. Melt remaining Tbsp butter and brush over top. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until just set in the middle. Scoop and serve warm.
Pairing Food, Farms, Libations & Live Music Food: Southern
Todd Geisert
Beverage Pairings:
Guerilla Street Food
Newman Farms
Still 630
Juniper
Missouri Grain Project
Big O
Porano Pasta
LaVista Farm
Spirits of St Louis
Companion
Berger Bluffs Farm
Pinckney Bend
Cleveland-Heath
Buttonwood Farm
Perennial Artisan Ales
Iron Barley
Papa’s Pasture
Schlafly
Salume Beddu
Baetje Farms
4 Hands
Kitchen Kulture
Live Springs Farm
Urban Chestnut
Shift Take Out & Test Kitchen
Such and Such Farm
Coulter and Payne
| Preparation | In a large bowl, stir together flour, cornmeal, baking powder, cumin, sugar, salt and pepper. In a small bowl, whisk together eggs, milk and butter. Whisk wet ingredients into dry ingredients. Stir in zucchini, corn and cheese; mix well. Over medium-high heat, warm oil in a cast-iron skillet. Prepare a paper towel-lined plate. Drop batter by the Tbsp into hot oil. Fry until crisp and brown and remove to plate to cool. Serve. 64
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
Scratch Brewing
Perennial Artisan Ales The Scottish Arms Sidney Street & Peacemaker Milagro Modern Mexican & Mission Taco Joint
Stringbean Coffee Earthbound Brewing
Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions
Silent & Live Auction
2nd Shift Brewing
Guest Auctioneer
Cat Neville
Robller Wines Civil Life Apple Knockers Hard Cider
$65 for Non-Members $55 for Members
Serves | 10 | cup all-purpose flour cup yellow cornmeal Tbsp baking powder tsp cumin cup sugar tsp salt tsp freshly ground black pepper eggs, beaten cup milk cup melted butter cups grated zucchini cups fresh corn kernels (cut off cob) cup finely shredded Cheddar cheese oil
Gateway Garlic Farm
Stellina Pasta
Zucchini-Corn Fritters 1 1 1 ½ ½ ½ 1 2 1 ¼ 2 1½ 1
Farmers:
Music
by the
Take One nd Ba
Tickets: www.slowfoodstl.org And at Brown Paper Tickets
10 t h A n n u al A r t o f F o o d
Wear: Red, Sil ver or Supe r
6-10 p.m. Saturday, November 7th at The Luminary, 2701 Cherokee Street, Saint Louis, MO Benefitting Biodiversity Farmer Micro-Grants
Thanks to Our Sponsors
R e sta u R a n t
...more than just another butcher shop
Truffles & Butchery
9202 Clayton Road Saint Louis, MO 63124 E: info@todayattruffles.com • T: 314.567.9100 & 7258 @Trufflesstl @Butcherystl www.todayattruffles.com Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
65
My fandom for University of Missouri football (or Mizzou football, as it’s known to Tigers fans) was predetermined, in a sense, as my mother was a baton-twirling majorette for the Golden Girls (who now perform more dancing than baton-twirling) for the football team in the late 1950s. The first college football game I ever attended was between Mizzou and the University of Notre Dame in September 1984 when I was 6. Mizzou lost that game 16-14, but it didn’t matter – I was hooked. The team continued to lose throughout much of the 1980s and into the ’90s, and I began to understand a bit of what it must be like to be a fan of the Chicago Cubs: to be wildly loyal, perennially optimistic and often disappointed. In 1986, my parents moved to a quiet farm in the Missouri Ozarks. Here, my tether to the world of sports was no longer television – we didn’t get reception, so I was stuck listening to the radio. I would spend Saturdays standing outside my parents’ red Chrysler LeBaron, listening to Mizzou games through the open car windows and completing passes to myself with my The Duke replica ball, mimicking the plays coming in over the airwaves. I remember listening to the infamous “fifth down” game against the University of Colorado-Boulder in the driveway of my parents’ home in 1990, sitting in the driver’s seat, yelling in excitement as it seemed we had won and then, seconds later, punching the steering wheel in disbelief as Charles Johnson, Colorado’s backup quarterback, “scored” the winning touchdown as time expired and officials erred in counting the downs. A few years later, in 1997, during my sophomore year of college, I borrowed a friend’s car, drove 3 miles down a country road to another friend’s house and paid $70 for pay-per-view just to watch Mizzou lose to Nebraska by virtue of a wayward kick, now infamously known as the “flea kicker,” in the end zone in the final seconds, to send them to overtime where Mizzou eventually lost. That kind of play causes disbelief. Yet the past 15 years or so have seen a decided reversal of fortune for Mizzou football, as the team has gained more respect and clout, rising to No. 1 in the Associated Press poll for a brief-but-glorious moment in 2007. Three years ago, the team joined the
catch the tigers by the tailgate chef john perkins dishes out southern-inspired recipes for fueling your next tailgate STOry And rECIPES WrITTEn By JOhn PErkInS
| PhOTOGrAPhy By TrAvIS dUnCAn
Southeastern Conference (SEC), the most football-crazy conference in the country. To date, Mizzou is the northernmost college included in the SEC. In 2013, the Tigers won the Cotton Bowl, and in 2013 and 2014, the team won the SEC East and ended the season 11-3 last year. As the head chef and owner of Juniper, a Southern restaurant in St. Louis’ Central West End neighborhood, the team’s ties to the SEC were a serendipitous collision of two of my favorite things: Southern food and football, which go hand in hand. For most Southerners, the experience of game day is almost as much about the tailgating as it is about the game. Places like The Grove on the University of Mississippi’s campus in Oxford, Mississippi, or the “world’s largest outdoor cocktail party” (the nickname given to the revelry surrounding the annual Florida-Georgia game) are just two examples of how the South takes its tailgating to the next level. Growing up, my family wasn’t properly tailgating unless we were sitting on a picnic blanket eating fried chicken and biscuits and sipping something hot from a thermos. Whether you’re gathered together with family and friends on a blanket or lounging in camping chairs near the grill, the most crucial component to a successful tailgate is good eats and drinks. In that spirit, I’ve put together a few travel-friendly, Southern-inspired recipes to help you host a rip-roaring tailgate. Some of these dishes can be prepared ahead of time and served on-site, while others can be made from start to finish in the parking lot, including savory bean dip, pimento cheese-bologna sandwiches, grilled potato salad, brined and basted pork chops and sweet (and handheld) red velvet whoopie pies, plus sweet-and-spicy rum punch (preferably served in red Solo cups) to wash it all down. Juniper, 360 N. Boyle Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.329.7696, junipereats.com
sea island red pea dip You can substitute Sea Island Red Peas with crowder peas or black-eyed peas if desired. The Cholula hot sauce added at the very end imparts additional acid, salt and depth of flavor. Serves | 6 | 3 cups Anson Mills Sea Island Red Peas salted water 8 cups water 1 onion, halved 1 head garlic 2 bay leaves 1 ham hock sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 ears corn zest of 2 limes 1 bunch cilantro, roughly chopped 3 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed 2 Tbsp kosher salt 2 cups cooked garbanzo beans 2 tomatoes, large dice ½ red onion, medium dice 1 jalapeño, sliced thinly into rounds juice of 2 limes 2 Tbsp olive oil 10 drops Cholula hot sauce
| Preparation | Soak red peas overnight in enough salted water to cover. Drain and add 8 cups water, onion, garlic, bay leaves and ham hock. In a large Dutch oven, bring mixture to a simmer and let cook for about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Drain mixture and remove aromatics. Set aside. In a skillet over high heat or over an open flame, char corn cobs. Cut kernels off cobs. Set aside. In a medium bowl, combine lime zest, cilantro, garlic and kosher salt and mix to incorporate. Transfer mixture to a cutting board and further chop ingredients, occasionally pressing on mixture with flat of knife, smearing it across cutting board, to work into paste. Continue chopping and smearing until a thick paste forms; it should be quite fragrant at this point. In a large bowl, combine red pea mixture, charred corn kernels, cooked garbanzo beans, tomatoes, red onion and jalapeño. Toss with cilantro paste, lime juice, olive oil, hot sauce and a bit more black pepper. Allow to chill in refrigerator overnight so flavors fully develop. Serve with tortilla chips, pita bread or crusty French bread.
pimento cheese-bologna sandwiches This is really close to the pimento cheese we make at Juniper. The difference is that we use a mix of white and yellow Cheddar, and we use house-fermented pickle juice. If you can’t find thick-cut bologna (about 2 inches thick is best for grilling) for the sandwiches, mortadella will work as a substitute. Sally Lunn bread is likely the most physically demanding bread recipe you’ll ever make, but you’ll be rewarded with the best toastmaking bread ever – trust me. Serves | 6 | Pimento Cheese
1 2 ½ 1 ½
1 1
lb shredded Cheddar cheese red bell peppers, roasted and diced cup mayonnaise tsp Dijon mustard tsp smoked paprika pinch cayenne pepper sea salt Tbsp Crystal hot sauce Tbsp pickle juice
sally lunn Bread
1 ½ ¼ 1½ 3 4 1
cup milk cup butter cup sugar tsp active dry yeast eggs, beaten cups flour tsp salt
Bologna sandwiChes
6 to 8 slices thick-cut bologna
butter, softened
| Preparation – Pimento Cheese | In a large bowl, combine all ingredients and stir with a rubber spatula until incorporated. Set aside.
| Preparation – Sally Lunn Bread | Preheat oven to 375°F. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine milk, butter and sugar and heat; make sure sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Add yeast to cooled mixture, and when it begins to bubble, stir in beaten eggs. Add flour and salt, stirring until a shaggy dough forms and then, using your hands, beat mixture – and I do mean beat – slapping and punching dough roughly 350 times. Let dough rise until it doubles in size, about 30 minutes, and then beat it again another 50 times. The dough should be fairly wet. You can either pour dough into a Bundt pan to make 1 loaf or you can divide it into 4 loaf pans. Let dough rise for another 30 minutes or so. Transfer pan (or pans) to oven and bake for 40 minutes until golden brown. Remove from oven and allow bread to cool to the touch, then cut into sandwich-bread slices.
| To Serve | Prepare and heat a charcoal grill. Slice bologna about 2 inches thick and grill until blackened in spots. Flip and grill other side. Plentifully spread butter onto slices of Sally Lunn bread and toast on grill, flipping when slightly blackened and bubbling. When bread has cooled to the touch, generously smear pimento cheese on 2 slices (or 1 to serve openfaced) and add bologna. Serve.
grilled potato salad with bacon and pickled mustard seeds Fennel stalk replaces some of the celery in the potato salad and brings a nice burst of fresh flavor to the party. If you can’t bear the thought of a noncreamy potato salad, keep everything the same and stir in ½ cup mayonnaise. Serves | 4 to 6 | Pickled Mustard seeds
1 1 ½ 2 1
cup apple cider vinegar cup water cup sugar Tbsp kosher salt cup mustard seeds
Grilled Potato salad
½ lb thick-cut bacon, sliced thinly into strips ¼ cup water 1 head fennel, fronds removed, stalks sliced thinly into strips sea salt vinegar salted water 12 red potatoes 2 lemons, sliced in halves ½ cup pickled mustard seeds (recipe below) 1 red onion, small dice 1 stalk celery, leaves removed and reserved, small dice freshly ground black pepper
| Preparation – Pickled Mustard Seeds | In a saucepot over high heat, combine all ingredients and bring to a boil, stirring constantly to dissolve sugar and salt. Boil for 30 seconds and then remove from heat. Allow mixture to rest for 5 minutes; transfer saucepot back to stove and bring to a boil once more. As soon as it reaches a boil, remove from heat and rest. Repeat this process 2 more times until seeds are swollen and plump and liquid has thickened. Set aside.
| Preparation – Grilled Potato Salad | In a heavy-bottomed saucepot over mediumhigh heat, add bacon and water, stirring occasionally until bacon has rendered its fat and turned slightly dark. Remove bacon and reserve bacon fat. In a small bowl, add sliced fennel strips and toss with salt and a couple dashes vinegar. Set aside. In a large stockpot, with heavily salted water, boil red potatoes until al dente. Depending on size of potatoes, this should take about 5 minutes, but go by doneness, not by time. When cool to the touch, slice potatoes into 1½-inch thick pieces and set aside. Prepare charcoal grill. Grill potatoes until dark and crispy. Grill lemon halves, fleshside down. Transfer grilled potatoes to a large bowl and toss immediately with ½ cup pickled mustard seeds and the juice of grilled lemons (you will have leftover pickled mustard seeds). Drizzle warm reserved bacon fat over potatoes and mix in onion, celery, celery leaves, fennel and bacon until thoroughly combined. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
pork chops Who doesn’t love a good pork chop? The brine ensures it’s juicy with a touch of sweet heat, and the baste creates a delectable crust and char as you grill. Red pepper flakes will work in place of Korean chile flakes, but not as well. Serves | 6 | 4 2 3 1 2 ½ ½ ¼ ½
cups apple cider yellow onions, sliced apples, sliced cup soy sauce cups water cup salt cup brown sugar cup Korean chile flakes cup apple cider vinegar
rum punch
6 1 1 1 3 ¼ ½ 1 ½ 1 1
pork loin chops, bone-on, double-cut sea salt and freshly ground black pepper cup olive oil stick butter cup bacon fat Tbsp Korean chile flakes cup brown sugar cup soy sauce Tbsp sesame oil cup mirin head garlic, halved bunch fresh thyme, rosemary and sage, tied together
| Preparation | In a large bowl, combine first 9 ingredients and mix until salt and sugar have dissolved. Add pork chops and let brine do its magic for at least 24 hours.
Remove pork chops from brine and pat dry. Season lightly with salt and pepper. In a medium bowl, combine remaining ingredients to form baste for pork chops. Prepare and heat charcoal grill. When charcoal is white and ashy, begin to grill pork chops, basting continually. Flip, baste and wait 30 seconds before flipping and basting once more. Don’t baste then flip; flip then baste. Basting helps to cool down meat, but doing so this way will also help to develop beautiful crust on meat. Meat will tighten as it cooks. Cook to an internal temperature of 140°F and remove from grill. Set aside to rest before serving.
ReCIPe By KevIn ARnDt, heAD BARtenDeR, JunIPeR
Make your own simple syrup by combining equal parts water and sugar – in this case, ¾ cups water to ¾ cups sugar, bringing it to a boil and simmering until sugar dissolves. Also, make sure you use fresh lime juice; it will make a big difference. You can purchase strawberry syrup from most grocery stores. Serves | 12 to 15 | 1 ½ ½ 12 8 6 1 1
bottle light rum (Flor de Caña, Cruzan or El Dorado 3 year) bottle spiced rum (Cruzan or El Dorado 5 year) bottle Cruzan Black Strap Rum oz fresh lime juice (about 12 limes) oz Monin strawberry syrup oz simple syrup ice oz Angostura bitters bottle extra dry Champagne
| Preparation | In a punch bowl or drink dispenser, combine all ingredients except bitters and Champagne and fill with ice. Stir for a few minutes to dilute and then top with bitters and Champagne. Stir and serve. 70
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
71
red velvet whoopie pies with cream cheese frosting Recipe by LauRa cottLeR, St. LouiS-baSed paStRy chef and fRiend of JunipeR
Yields | about 24 whoopie pies | Cream Cheese Frosting
1 8 2 1
stick unsalted butter, softened oz softened cream cheese lbs powdered sugar Tbsp vanilla extract
red VelVet Whoopie pies
½ ½ ½ 1 2 2 3 1⁄ 3 1 ½ ½ 1
cup unsalted butter cup shortening cup brown sugar cup granulated sugar eggs tsp vanilla extract cups all-purpose flour cup unsweetened cocoa powder tsp baking powder tsp baking soda tsp salt cup buttermilk red food coloring
| Preparation – Cream Cheese Frosting | in the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, cream butter and cream cheese on low until smooth. Slowly add powdered sugar, scraping down sides of bowl to fully incorporate. add vanilla extract and mix once more. Set aside. | Preparation – Red Velvet Whoopie Pies | preheat oven to 300°f. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. prepare a piping bag with a medium round piping tip (or snip off bottom corner of a Ziploc bag). in the bowl of a stand mixer with paddle attachment, add butter, shortening and sugars and cream on low until light and airy. Slowly add eggs and vanilla extract, scraping down sides of mixing bowl. Make sure eggs are emulsified and fully incorporated. in a large bowl, sift remaining dry ingredients together. in a separate bowl, combine buttermilk and red food coloring. With stand mixer on low speed, alternating in batches, add dry and wet ingredients to batter, starting and ending with dry. fill piping bag halfway and twist it closed. holding the bag upright, pipe half-dollar-sized rounds, evenly spaced apart, on prepared baking sheet. transfer baking sheet to oven and bake for 12 to 14 minutes, rotating baking sheet halfway through. Whoopies are ready when they spring back to the touch. Remove from oven and allow to cool. once cool to the touch, sandwich cream cheese frosting between 2 whoopies and press down to form whoopie pies. Serve.
travel to Columbia, missouri, to tailgate with chef John perkins of Juniper and learn his tips for winning game-day eats in the october episode of Feast TV.
it’s back! 6665 Delmar BlvD | St. louiS, mo. | 314.863.1148 hours: 11am - 10pm everyday 1020 e. Broadway | columBia mo. | 573.441.taco HourS: Sun - weD 11am - 10pm tHurS - Sat 11am - 2am
6665 Delmar BlvD | St. louiS, mo. 314.925.8452 HourS: Sun, mon. weD. & tHurS. 5pm - 11pm fri. & sat. 5pm -midnight • closed tuesday
ur a Fa ut m he ily n t ex ic pe ko ri r en ea ce n B
yo
w w
w .s
e
o
BQ
Se ulta c o o.co u m l Q
winner of feast 50 readers choice food truck savory fast casual Best taco runner up
www.seoulqstl.com Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
73
LET US CATER YOUR BUSINESS LUNCH! Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! "To Eat Well is To Live Well" Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere. Lunch Pans To Go! Need to feed a crowd! Try our party pans for delicious meal for any size group! Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials. Watch For Our Healthy Lunch Specials
Giuseppe and the Prezzavento Family
Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday
5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com
Furniture Repaired, Furniture Refinished 5 Year Workmanship Guarantee Quality Craftsmanship • Refinishing • Reupholstery Antique Restoration Repair • Custom Made Draperies Custom Made Furniture • New Furniture • Antiques Monday - Friday 8am - 4:30pm Appointments & Service Available 24 Hrs. A Day, 7 Days A Week
Since 1893
Just east of 3400 S. Kingshighway We accept Discover, Visa, Mastercard and American Express
4821 Fairview Ave., St. Louis • 314.832.1555 • www.zollingerfurniture.com
Free $10 Gift Card With Your To-Go Order King & I is now offering a Customer Rewards program for Dinner take-out orders. Earn a stamp on your rewards card when you order a dinner entree to-go. Collect ten stamps and get a $10 gift card good for your next visit to King & I. (One stamp per to-go order)
Customer rewards card also available for dine-in lunch customers. Ask your server for details. Happy Hour starts everyday at 4p.m. Come in for drink and appetizer specials.
3155 South Grand • St. Louis • 314.771.1777 • kingandistl.com 74
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
Modern Luxury
Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant
With
A "FEAST" Favorite!
Thank You all Local Area Chefs for Making Us #1 FREE PARKING IN THE METRO LINK GARAGE
Fabulous Finds Has TWO Locations To Find Wonderful!
Chalk Country Paint & Texturing Classes Now Available! (Making A Curtain Call) 632 N. Main Street Columbia, IL
(618) 281-1952
Over 300 Craft Beers Large Wine Shop Huge Whiskey, Bourbon & Scotch Selection
Dean’s Liquor 210 West Main St. | Collinsville, IL 618-344-4930 | deansliquor.com
705 Third Street, Rocheport, MO 65279 573-698-2028 | AmberhouseBB.com
Discover ver Historic Main Street
Shop, Wine, & Dine Guide *Aunt Maggie’s Family Restaurant 230 N Main St. • 618-281-8117 *Chateau La Vin 119 S. Main St • 618-281-8117 *Fabulous Finds 315 N. Main St. • 618-281-1954 632 N. Main St. • 618-281-1952 *Joe Boccardi’s Ristorante 117 S. Main St. • 618-281-6700 *Our Coffee House & Café 125 N. Rapp Ave. • 618-281-4554 *Reifschneider’s Grill & Grape 608 N. Main St. • 618-281-2020 *Roseberry Farms Antiques, Books & Collectibles 603 N. Main St. • 618-520-0850 *Tiny’s Pub & Grill 602 N. Main St. • 618-281-9977 *See ad for more information
e 20 Uniqu Shops & ul tf 15 Deligh Dine d n a e in W Options
Oct 4 - Christian Music Festival Oct 8 - Witches Ghoulish Night Out Nov 19 - Sparklefest
Nov 21 & 22 - Holiday Hunt Dec 5 - Bright Night Christmas Parade
Tues., Wed. & Fri. 10-4 Thursday 10-7, Saturday 10-4
(The Boutique) 315 N. Main Street Columbia, IL
(618) 281-1954
Tues., Wed., Fri., 11-4 Thurs., 11-7, Saturday 10-4
FREE Birthday Dinner
Now Serving Breakfast Everyday 6:30am - 10:30am
(with ID)
Menu & Buffet Dining
(Lunch & Dinner) Tues. - “Senior Day”: Buy 1 Meal Get 1 Meal 50% OFF w/ purchase chase of a drink Wed. - Chick Chicken & Dumplings German Fri. - Fish Cuisine & Music Sat. (pm) - Prime Rib Every Sat in Oct! Sun. - All Da Day Buffet
SPECIALTY ITEMS
• Broasted Fried Chicken • German & Hungarian Cuisine • American Dishes • Wine & Beer (on Thursdays and 3rd Sundays)
HOURS:
Mon 6:30 am- 2pm • Tues - Thurs: 6:30am - 8pm Fri & Sat: 6:30am - 9pm • Sunday: 6:30am - 7pm
618-281-7894
230 N. Main Columbia, IL
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK
Authentic Italian Brick Oven!
10% OFF
Food Purchase Offer Expires 10/31/15
Black Angus Steaks & Burgers Appetizers • Salads • Sandwiches • Fish Brick Oven Pizzas • Desserts
Come enjoy dinner & drinks on our outdoor patio!! Lunch & Dinner Menu
Our Coffee House & Cafe
Antiques, Books, Collectibles & Home Decór 603 N. Main St., Columbia, IL 62236
618.520.0850
Serving The Finest Gourmet Coffee
“Member of Asheford Institute Of Antiques”
Homemade • Quiche• Pot Pies • Soups • Chicken Salad • Pies & Desserts • Variety of Hot Panini Sandwiches
Nestled in the front of the historic “Old Distillery” in downtown Columbia, IL, step into the past and find something for everyone:
10% OFF
Food Purchase $8 OFF
Your One Stop Shop
with purchase of breakfast or lunch over $5.00 Offer Expires 10/31/15
Purchase of $35 or More Offer expires 10/31/15
Serving: Breakfast & Lunch Daily Dinner Wednesday Evening
117 S. Main St., Columbia, IL 62236
Hours: Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri 6am-4pm Wed 6am-8pm • Sat 7am-4pm • Sun 8am-2pm
www.joeboccardis.com
125 Rapp Street Columbia, IL 62236 ourcoffeehousecafe.com 618-281-4554
618-281-6700
Daily Specials! • Extensive Wine List Meats Mea Smoked In-House • 11 Flat Screen TVs Large Outdoor Patio • Kitchen Open Late 12 Beers on Tap, Imported and Specialty Micro Brews Private Parties Available
618-281-2020 608 North Main St. Columbia, IL 62236 www.grillandgrape.com Daily lunch and dinner specials
618-710-0200
700 North State St. Freeburg, IL 62243
New MeNu! bOOk HOliDay
Over 75 Years
ss in Busine
Victorian Style • Holiday Parties • Massage Therapy • Dinner Service • Bicycles • Fireplaces • Jetted Tubs
Located in the Meridian Shopping Center at Hanley & Eager Roads behind the Best Buy.
Tu-Th: 11am-9pm • Fr-Su 11am-10pm 8396 Musick Memorial Dr. • 314.645.2835 www.MaiLeeSTL.com
ating r b e Cel
• Huge Assortment of Vintage & Modern Fall & Halloween Home Decor • Special Fall Blends of Door County Coffee • Country Home Creations Gourmet Dip Mixes • Hand Cut Fall Scented Hand Soaps • Still "The Most Unique Shop in The Metro East" Sunday & Monday Closed Tuesday & Wednesday 10am - 4pm Thursday & Friday Noon - 8pm Saturday 10am - 4pm
N DE t AR mos t's G c NE usi Sa WI e M Fri & Liv urs. Th
parties NoW!
Tiny’s Pub & Grill 602 N. Main St. Columbia, il 62236
618-281-9977 New Daily DriNk SpeCialS Wraps • specialty Burgers seafood items Grill OpeN Mon-Thurs 11-8pm, Fri-Sat 11-10pm pub OpeN Daily (Sun-Sat) 11am-1am
Great Wines, Specialty Beers & Spirits chateaulavin.com Wine Bar Open: Tues.-Thurs.2-9pm, Fri. & Sat. 2-11pm, Sun.2-7pm
119 South Main Street, Columbia, IL 618.281.8117 Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
75
Hog Heaven Circle B Ranch offers flavorful pasture-raised pork and a little slice of porcine paradise in Southern Missouri.
Written by ren bishop photography by Jennifer silverberg
The crisp, earthy scent of oak and dry grass hangs in the air, but it doesn’t smell bad. That’s one of the first things visitors notice when they arrive at Circle B Ranch, located on top of a hill 30 miles from Springfield, Missouri, in Seymour. Hogs in long, airy pens line its winding driveway. Soft, rowdy oinks ring out from the 90-acre hog farm, and black and red Berkshires and Red Wattle hogs, plus mixes of the two, trot along slowly, munching on green grass and grazing on foliage. It’s almost idyllic. Chickens and turkeys pluck on patches of greenery surrounding co-owners Marina and John Backes’ dream farmhouse. Two friendly Airedale terriers, Brixton and Roxie, and a little Welsh terrier named Zeke, patrol the grounds and keep an eye on Circle B’s smiling farmhands. Piglets climb on top of one another to form so-called piggy piles, lounging in mud under a cedar tree. It’s a peaceful, picturesque pork paradise. “We started with nine sows and a boar in November 2009,” Marina says. “Now we have more than 300 hogs, and we just bought 100 more acres to expand,” John says, finishing Marina’s thought. “We’re growing. I’m passionate about natural farming because I care about the animals, but also, happy hogs taste better on the plate – every time.”
From Jersey to the ozarks
Marina and John met on a blind date almost 40 years ago in New York City. She lived in Staten Island, and he had lived his whole life in New Jersey, where he developed a love for the outdoors. The two fell in love, married and soon after, each began pursuing their own passions: his, industrial construction, hers, food – although John had been interested in the slow-food movement since high school. “I married into a food culture,” John says. “They weren’t always as conscious about the quality of the animal they ate, but they were conscious of the food they ate. Marina’s family understood that a quality product made for a good finished meal.” Marina grew up spending Sundays in the kitchen, cooking alongside her grandmother for her large Italian family. She fell in love with experimenting with flavors and mastering her sauce recipe. And for 11 years, she pursued her passion as co-owner of a high-end catering business in Somerville, New Jersey.
“We started out in my home kitchen, and then we went into my basement because it was the perfect size for a catering company before moving into a regular storefront,” Marina says. “We specialized in high-end events. We were really wellknown for having fabulous, intimate dinner parties. I had really great chefs and really great pastry chefs, and I learned about food from that.” At the same time she was managing her catering business, Marina was helping to grow John’s industrial construction business on the Eastern shore of New Jersey. She would work with chefs; he would work at the job site. But after work, John would find himself outside working on his hobby farm in west New Jersey. “We had 6 acres,” he says. “Whether it was raising dogs or kids or chickens and ducks, we always had something going.
Visit CirCle B ranCh John, Marina and their three dogs always welcome visitors to the ranch to get a brief tour of the facilities and to see the hogs in person. To schedule a time to stop by, call Circle B Ranch at 417.683.0271. 78
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2014
After 20-some years of that, you learn the principles of animal husbandry and what it takes to keep an animal happy.” They raised their two children, Erin and Kurt, on their hobby farm. In 2002, Kurt enrolled in Iowa State University to wrestle for the college. Marina and John grew to love the Midwest as they traveled around to watch their son compete, and along the way, they came up with the idea to move west and buy some land. After an extensive search for land in Missouri, the Backes found 90 acres close enough to a city for Marina that would also work well as a ranch for John. They purchased the property and put their New Jersey home on the market in the summer of 2009 – and, unexpectedly, it sold in three months.
“We bought the property not with a specific intention in mind, and then I started researching cattle, talking to people, [going] to barns around here, seeing what the animals were going for, and we discovered that hogs were the fastest return,” John says. “It’s three months, three weeks, three days for hogs to reproduce. This property wasn’t just a project; it was an investment for us. Hogs made the most sense.” Marina nods now, but she wasn’t on board at first. “This was our retirement property; you’ve got to understand that,” she says. “And then he started looking at different hog farms, and I thought ‘Oh, my god, we’re going to raise hogs; that’s disgusting.’ But we saw a couple of farms and what they did, how they focused on animal welfare and humane standards. They loved the animals – that we could do.”
DON’T MISS A
SINGLE SERVING!
Homemade Greek Food
Subscribe to Feast’s weekly enewsletter for delicious content covering KC, STL and mid-MO dining.
Carry out • Catering Private Parties Gyros • Kebobs • Baklava oLYmPIa keBoB HoUSe aNd TaVerNa Patio Now open 7 days a week from 11am 1543 McCausland • 314-781-1299
Visit
feastmagazine.com 1 year
$30
or
2 year
$56
feastmagazine.com
to subscribe and you’ll get fresh content delivered to your inbox every Tuesday!
5 YEAR ANNIVERSARY WEEKEND OCT. 2-4 LIVE muSIC EVERY WEEKEND
100 HEMSATH RD. AUGUSTA MO 63332
LUNCH SERVED DAILY SUN-FRI 11AM - 5PM AND SAT 11AM - 6PM NOBOLEISVINEYARDS.COM
636.482.4500
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
79
CirCle B ranCH near You Circle B Ranch pork products can be found in southwest Missouri at MaMa Jean’s Natural Market, Harter House, Homegrown Food and the Hy-Vee location in Springfield, Missouri. In Kansas City, you can find Circle B pork at most Hy-Vee stores as well as at Whole Foods Market locations, in addition to Cosentino’s Food Stores and Price Chopper. St. Louis pork patrons can find Circle B at Straub’s, Whole Foods, Lucky’s Market and Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions. In Columbia, Missouri, score Circle B products at Hy-Vee, Lucky’s Market and Clover’s Natural Market. Pork products can be ordered and shipped to you by visiting circlebranchpork.com, as well.
Hog wild John and Marina’s first litter of black piglets was born in the winter of 2010. Since then, the drove has grown to more than 300 red, black and crossover heritage hogs. Hog breeds are broken into two categories: heritage and non-heritage. Heritage hogs have been historically raised with exposure to the elements, providing pasture-raised pork to farmers. Heritage breeds look and act very much like their ancestral hogs appeared hundreds of years ago. Non-heritage hog breeds, often called commodity or commercial hogs, are bred to be raised in confinement. John’s herd features calm Berkshires and hearty Red Wattle sows. “Berkshires are probably your most popular 80
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2014
heritage breed, then Red Wattle, Large Black, Gloucestershire Old Spot… they’re all slow-growth breeds,” he says. “Your commodity hogs will be raised in six months; these will take about eight.” During those eight months, piglets turned sows (females) or barrows (males) live outside in the elements. Hogs have free reign in their pens over green pastures and wooded areas, eating acorns, nuts and underbrush as they trot along. John says that their varied diet gives Circle B’s pork a sweeter and dark, more complex flavor. Pigs oink collectively when humans approach. They recognize the roar of the feed cart’s engine, gathering near the gate during hand feedings. They know the sound of John’s bellowing voice. They sniff the ground and wallow together, interacting
socially in small teams. They’re fully active, engaged creatures, living in pens that feature oak trees and fresh water streams. John looks at a pile of piglets and smiles with pride as he talks about how his pigs use all their instincts at his ranch, which is both certified humanely raised and handled through Humane Farm Animal Care and Animal Welfare Approved, two programs that audit and accredit organic farms. “I chose to do natural farming because I’ve been a part of the slow-food movement since the 1970s; it’s what I’m passionate about,” he says. “All the work we put in affects the taste, the appearance. They’re allowed to exercise all their instincts. They’re exposed to the environment that is suitable for them. This is what they need to thrive. All that adds up to a healthier animal,
which adds up to a better-tasting animal.”
Passion for Pork Commodity hogs are often raised in strict and controlled environments to increase their size and speed up the maturation process. Vaccinations, hormones and antibiotics are common at industrial hog farms, according to the Department of Agriculture, and during processing, water is often used to increase the size of pork cutlets, chops and more. Marina sighs when she talks about the pork she usually finds at grocery stores. “Commodity pork doesn’t have all the enzymes we have; it’s pumped up with water,” she says. “Our pork, it’s a natural product. It’s healthy. There are no antibiotics or hormones in our products because it’s
the perfect night out...
coming soon... Oct 7-10 Yellowjackets Oct 14-15 Adam Larson Oct 21-24 Kevin Eubanks Group Oct 28-29 Lamar Harris: Nina Reloaded with Anita Jackson Oct 30-31 Houston Person Quartet Nov 4-7 Poncho Sanchez and his Latin Jazz Band
jazz at the bistro
Nov 11-12 Karrin Allyson Sings Rodgers & Hammerstein
concerts | dinner | drinks full concert listing and info:
jazzstl.org jazzstl.org | 314.571.6000 314.571.6000
the harold & dorothy steward center for jazz 3536 washington ave. st.louis, mo 63103 Presenting Sponsor of the 2015-16 Jazz at the Bistro Season
�� ����
���
�
�����
��
���
CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR 2015 KOOKIN’ FOR KIDS WINNERS!
BEST DISH
�
� � � ��
�
Captain Crunch Shrimp
BEST COCKTAIL The Ward 24
Many thanks to our generous sponsors and guests who helped raise more than $130,000 for St. Vincent Home for Children!
�
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
81
THe SauCe In addition to pork products, Marina and John Backes have signature sauces sold through Circle B. Marina’s from-scratch sauces include a popular semisweet cranberry chutney, smooth and comforting Italian-style tomato sauce and a tangy ketchup. Big John’s homemade pork and steak sauce complements Circle B’s pork chops, and the barbecue sauce is delectable over pulled pork.
just not necessary. And it tastes better, quite frankly.” Marina’s customers agree. Circle B’s popular pork loin chops are a decadent meat, cut thick. They’re rich, succulent and feature a complex series of subtle, earthy flavors. And due to demand, they’re always fresh. The pork belly is another favorite with chefs. The rich, savory belly is featured at some of the most noteworthy restaurants in Springfield, including Metropolitan Farmer, Farmers Gastropub and The Order at Hotel Vandivort. Zach White, executive chef of The Order, built his favorite entrée at the restaurant around the ranch’s pork belly: Braised pork belly with apple mashed potatoes, tricolor carrots and local fruit jam. “I went to the farm, met the Backes and fell in love with what they’re doing there,” White says. “They produce the best pork belly I’ve ever had. All of their pork products are just phenomenal.” Circle B Ranch’s hearty pork products are also served at Big Cedar Lodge near Branson, Missouri, and high-end restaurants at Branson’s Top of the Rock. Direct orders from restaurants across Missouri make up 75 percent of Circle B’s business, but the ranch’s value-added products, such as Marina’s hearty meatballs, sausage and bacon, are popular at farmers’ markets and grocery stores in Springfield, Columbia, Kansas City and St. Louis. “We think our product is accessible to working families,” John says. “We kind of market [our meatballs] as healthy 82
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2014
fast food because if you see the food content and the nutrients, it’s a good food. I think it’s a high-quality product but not necessarily a high-end price – and we’ve got a hot dog that’ll knock your socks off.” Hog Heaven
At the ranch, John walks along a pig pen, checking his watch for the time of the hogs’ afternoon feeding. They oink in recognition and scamper to him as he approaches, eager for their corn and soybean meal, eyes fixated on him. The farm will soon be expanding to make use of its new 100 acres for pasture rotation – something that will further improve the comfort and quality of life for the hogs at Circle B Ranch. “I had a guy out here from Animal Welfare [Approved] who was auditing our farm, and he said, ‘If I were going to die and come back as a hog, this is where I’d want to be,’” John says. He pauses for a moment as he looks out at a horde of happy, oinking hogs. “This is hog heaven, I guess.” Circle B Ranch, RR2 Box 2824, Seymour, Missouri, 417.683.0271, circlebranchpork.com onLIne eXTRa
Visit feastmagazine.com to score two of Marina’s recipes featuring Circle B Ranch pork products.
Learn more about Circle B’s humanely raised hogs and flavorful pork products in the october episode of Feast TV.
TASTE & SEE IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
PRESENTED BY
WHEN: Fri., Oct. 16, 7 to 10PM WHERE: Public Media Commons 3653 Olive St. St. Louis, MO MORE INFO: ninenet.org TICKETS: $15
Enjoy screenings of Feast TV, as well as presentations and demonstrations from chefs and artisans featured on the show. This is the third in our series of live Feast TV events and this time we’re focused on Southern food and local spirits with food and drink from these vendors: Juniper La Patisserie Chouquette Small Batch Sugarfire The Social Affair Spirits of St. Louis StilL 630 Grand River Spirits Pinckney Bend More to be announced soon! 84
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
FINE ART
FINE FOOD
An evening of fine art deserves an equally wonderful culinary experience. Here are some of Feast editors' favorites for the month of October. Grünaeur
Webster House Lyric Opera Kansas City
A night in the heart of Kansas City brings together authentic German cuisine from Grünauer restaurant with a performance at the Lyric Opera featuring Rusalka. Grünauer, located in the historic Freight House, offers inspired Austrian fare, or you can take in the Wunder Bar with an array of wines, beers and spirits. After dinner, the showing of Rusalka tells the story of a lovely yet lovelorn mermaid who yearns to become human. Although Disney’s The Little Mermaid and Dvorák’s Rusalka are based on the same Hans Christian Andersen fable, this isn’t your daughter’s Ariel. Opening Sun., Nov. 15.
kcopera.org | 816.471.4933 grunauerkc.com | 816.283.3234
Dinner Movie Tenacious Eats
Tenacious Eats presents Vincent Price in Theater of Blood. This special presentation will take place Sat., Oct. 10 at The St. Louis Banquet Center. Special guest Victoria Price, Vincent Price's daughter, will serve as the honorary host, with limited copies of Vincent and Mary Price's Cookbook A Treasury of Great Recipes available for sale and signed by Victoria for $50. The dinner includes five killer courses and five cold-blooded cocktails. Seating is limited and is based on a firstcome, first-served basis. Tickets cost $95 per person on the day of the event.
tenaciouseats.com | 314.499.7600
Kansas City Symphony Webster House, located next door to the Kauffman Center for the Performing Arts, is the perfect pairing for a night at the Kansas City Symphony. You can dine in the awardwinning restaurant with spectacular views of the Liberty Memorial and Downtown with seasonal menus designed around local ingredients. Actress and recording artist Kristin Chenoweth brings her beautiful voice and electric personality to the Kansas K City Symphony on Sat., Oct., 3 at 8 8pm. Tickets range from $49 to $119.
kcsymphony.org | 816.471.0400 websterhousekc.com | 816.800.8820
Jazz St. Louis Jazz at the Bistro The Grammy award-winning Yellowjackets are one of the most acclaimed and influential jazz groups in history. Their blend of fusion and jazz provides for an extremely exciting and energizing experience. Playing Oct. 7 to 10 at Jazz at the Bistro, you’ll enjoy the best of live jazz in an intimate, comfortable setting. Reserved seating promises thrilling sound and outstanding sight lines, with delicious dinner and drink options available.
jazzstl.org | 314.571.6000 jazzstl.org/jazz-at-the-bistro
Written by ettie berneking
| PhotograPhy by brad zWeerink
after moving onto the property, Clyde decided to bring the mill back to its former glory. “I didn’t know beans about corn,” he says. As a production executive for Lockheed Martin in Florida, Clyde had never rehabbed a mill before, but there was something about its history and the beautiful pastoral property that hooked the couple’s interest.
old on. I was going to give you a dissertation on this.”
It’s a hot and sunny afternoon, and Clyde and Janet Beal are giving a tour of their 50-acre property 20 miles west of Springfield, Missouri. With a camera slung around his neck and thick hiking boots on his feet, Clyde, 79, stops every now and then to snap a photo of a wild mushroom or of a great blue heron that suddenly pops into view. “Every inch of this property is beautiful,” Janet says. But it isn’t the rugged wilderness or the gurgling creek that brings people out here. It’s the 170-plus-year-old grist mill that Clyde brought back to life 10 years ago. “I call it rehabilitation rather than restoration,” he says, continuing his dissertation. When the couple moved into the home 13 years ago, the small mill was in shambles. The massive wooden water wheel had fallen into disrepair, and the inside was a mess of dilapidated rafters and tattered insulation. As Clyde puts it, the mill had become a luxury hotel for mice, which were its sole inhabitants. One year
“We were living in Florida and looking for a place to retire,” Janet says. “We looked in Georgia and all over the Southeast, but we couldn’t find just what we wanted. Then I saw this house listed in Country Living. It said there was a creek and a mill on the property. I had always loved mills. There’s something romantic about them.” With a call placed to the realtor, the Beals drove up from Florida that weekend and put an offer on the house. A few months later, Janet had her mill. Hugged on all sides by towering cedars, hardwoods and fragrant redbuds that bloom each spring, the Beals’ property is a rare slice of undeveloped natural beauty near Springfield. To navigate the rough terrain, Clyde built 1½ miles of walking trails that snake through the trees and along the bluff overlooking Turnback Creek. The creek, which starts somewhere in Billings, Missouri, makes a sharp east-to-west run right through the middle of the Beals’ backyard. To cross it, Clyde engineered and constructed a self-service ferry that’s straight out of The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn. Passengers stand on a small wooden platform that floats on top of the water. To move, one pulls the rope tethered on each side of the muddy bank. It’s simple, efficient and proved a much easier project than rehabbing the dilapidated grist mill.
Nearly 200 years old, Britain Mill is once again grinding up cornmeal and grits thanks to one dedicated couple whose love of history led them to the property.
The mill dates back to the mid-1840s. By the time the Beals took over the land, the mill had seen about five owners and undergone several rounds of rebuilding. According to Clyde’s research, a man named Bill Cameron was the last to rebuild the mill, restoring and relocating the collapsed two-story version to a replica of the original one-story mill at a new site. Cameron is also responsible for the Edwards Mill at College of the Ozarks in nearby Point Lookout, Missouri. Clyde loves uncovering these tidbits of history, like learning about one past owner who was beloved by local schoolchildren for helping them regularly cross Turnback Creek. Then there’s the story of how the mill’s dam was dynamited in the mid-1940s – it’s rumored either disgruntled landowners or Ozark fishermen were to blame. Clyde has spent years flipping through property titles and newspaper clippings, slowly piecing together the story behind what he has named Britain Mill – a tribute to the last commercial operators who named it Britain Mill on Turnback Creek. “This is where the tour starts,” Clyde says, standing in front of the painted red mill. Before heading inside, he pauses in front of a memorial Cameron dedicated to his wife – it’s made of large pieces of equipment and a long shaft with a bevel gear close to 20 feet long. Clyde is wearing a collared shirt with Britain Mill embroidered on the left side, and as he’s walking along the stoned-in bank, water rushes past and spills into Turnback Creek at a deafening speed. He gives his guests detailed accounts of each switch, water turbine, bevel gear and a bit of history about the mill. It’s the mind of an engineer at work, but to really get an idea of how much labor and love Clyde has poured into Britain Mill, you have to step inside. Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
85
Back in pioneer days, mills were the center of activity, and towns often popped up wherever a mill was built. Missouri riverbanks and waterways are still dotted with the ruins of once-working mills, and Britain Mill is the only operating survivor in Lawrence County. Large pieces of equipment fill the small space. A few were here when Clyde and Janet moved in, but most had to be added or built by Clyde. He even rebuilt the 14-foot water wheel outside, which is no longer water-powered, but with one push it slowly spins to life – much to Janet’s amusement. “I used to come out here in the summer when Clyde was working in the heat,” she says. “I still can’t believe he rebuilt this.”
Clyde can grind 50 pounds of corn in one hour. That gets him 40 pounds of product, the majority of which is cornmeal, with a few pounds of grits. “That’s not bad,” he says. “Consider how long it would take you to eat 40 pounds of cornmeal.” The mill only gets used six times a year, which means it isn’t a commercial operation. Clyde and Janet keep most of the cornmeal and grits stored in a fridge in the garage and share their haul with family, friends, neighbors and visitors. For $2, guests can take a sack of cornmeal home, and $3.50 gets them a sack of grits. The milling process starts with a piece of homemade equipment; bags of corn kernels are poured onto a large screen that Clyde gently shakes. Dust and small debris fall through the screen, and the clean corn tumbles into a bucket. The corn then goes into a hopper where 16-inch stones grind it into a fine meal before it’s scooped up by an elevator fitted with small metal cups attached to a belt. The elevator hauls the ground corn high into the air where it’s dumped into the sifter, and the contents are sorted into cornmeal, grits and middlins. “The cornmeal comes out of these four slots, and the grits come out of these two slots,” Clyde explains, pointing to the machine’s sifter. Next, he transfers the grits to a separator he made himself. He turns on an antique cast-iron fan that belonged to Janet’s family and watches as the grits and the bran – the part of the kernel he doesn’t want – are separated. “Forced air separates the different density particles,” Clyde explains. “The grits are dropped through an air current [from the antique fan], which blows the lighter-weight bran material into a metal pan under the separator while the heavier grits fall into a wooden bucket.” It’s the grits Clyde likes most. They’re creamier than the store-bought kind and have better texture. “People who don’t like grits haven’t tried mine,” he says. The same can be said of Clyde’s cornmeal: It’s much grittier and has an almost savory flavor. Clyde and Janet use the cornmeal to make apple corn cakes for breakfast topped with cinnamon applesauce or maple syrup. They also make loaves of cornbread throughout the year, and Clyde makes pans of cheesy grits that Janet raves about. Rehabbing the mill is Clyde’s tribute to those who came before him. Even after 10 years, he continues to stumble upon new stories and pieces of the mill’s history, like when the great-great-granddaughter of the mill’s last commercial operator stopped by for a visit earlier this year. “She had only visited the mill when she was 8,” Clyde says. “She added to our collection of history.” As Clyde snaps photos of the mill’s exterior, revived with a coat of burnt red paint, it’s hard to believe 86
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
how much work he has put into its restoration, and it’s hard to imagine what the mill will look like years after clyde and Janet no longer tend the property. in some ways, the couple are just the current caretakers. Many have come before, and clyde hopes many will come after them. their daughter isn’t interested in taking on the property, and letting it fall into disrepair once again is a heartbreaking prospect, so for now, the couple continues chugging along, freshening coats of paint, repairing broken machinery, mowing trails through the woods and enjoying their role in the mill’s story. ask clyde why he chooses to spend his time working on a historic grist mill, and he just shakes it off. “i’m retired,” he says. “so why not?” Britain Mill is available for tours by appointment. Contact britainmill@gmail.com to learn more. Recipes couRtesy clyde and Janet Beal
Clyde’s Cornbread Yields | 1 loaf | 1½ ½ ½ 1 1 1 to 1½
cups cornmeal cup flour cup sugar Tbsp baking powder egg cups buttermilk
| Preparation | Heat a greased skillet in the oven at 400°F. in a large bowl, sift all dry ingredients. add egg and buttermilk. pour mixture into heated skillet and bake until brown, about 20 minutes. serve.
Apple-Corn Cakes Yields | 6 to 8 griddle cakes |
1 2 1 1 ½ ½ 1 1
olive oil egg, slightly beaten Tbsp vegetable oil cup buttermilk cup cornmeal tsp baking soda tsp salt Tbsp sugar cup peeled and finely chopped apples cinnamon applesauce (to serve) butter (to serve)
| Preparation | preheat and oil a griddle. in a large bowl, combine egg, vegetable oil and buttermilk. in a separate bowl, sift together cornmeal, baking soda, salt and sugar. combine wet and dry ingredients and add in chopped apples. transfer 13 ⁄ -cup scoops of batter to griddle. cook first side until golden, about 2 minutes, then flip and repeat on other side, about 1 minute. serve with cinnamon applesauce and butter.
travel ravel to Britain Mill to see how its stone-ground grits and cornmeal are made in the october episode of Feast TV.
Teaspoons cafe
Come in and enjoy a fresh variety of nearly 50 loose leaf teas by the cup or by the pot, brewed just for you. Or, order one of our fine coffee, cappuccino or espresso selections. Join us for breakfast or lunch and choose from our completely made-from-scratch menu of gourmet pastries, sandwiches, wraps, soups, salads and more. 2125 south Route 157, edwardsville, IL 62025 618-655-9595 • teaspoonscafe.com
Stur
Handcrafted cocktails with a signature twist. Inspired by celebrity mixologist Brian Van Flandern, these made-from-scratch, never pre-mixed, fresh cocktails will keep you wanting more. Relax in our sophisticated lounge accompanied by live music. Need a bite to eat? Enjoy our small plates of new American cuisine with an emphasis on fresh ingredients
4 Club Centre Ct., Edwardsville, IL 62025 618-307-9613 • sturrestaurant.com
Dewey’s Pizza
Located in historic downtown Edwardsville, Dewey’s Pizza is an upscale pizzeria which offers unique craft beers, boutique wines, and gourmet pizzas and salads. Top-notch service and value makes Dewey’s a great spot for your next lunch outing. Stop in for dinner when you are going to the Wildey Theater, or to the Arts in the Park. Whether you want to dine-in or carry-out, Dewey’s Pizza in Edwardsville, is the perfect place for your next dining experience! Edwardsville has earned a spot on Family Circle’s “Best Cities for Families”, and Dewey’s carries the charm of the community with its family oriented atmosphere. 112 e. Vandalia st., edwardsville, iL 618-656-2200 • deweyspizza.com
88
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
Cleveland heath Fun Food. Happy People. Great Drinks. Come in for one of the best dinning experiences you will have, in a great environment, surounded by happy people , awesome drink, and fun food. We hope everyone will share in our imagination and desire for creative cooking. Let’s Eat! 106 n. Main St., edwardsville, Il 62025 618-307-4830 • clevelandheath.com
GinGham Buffalo
A home decor retail store which specializes in home furnishings, furniture, lighting, Annie Sloan chalk paint, lotions, jewelry & handbags. In addition to the products in our store we offer outside design services as the Gingham Buffalo Home Outfitters. Our services offer clients several options of interior design of their homes such as home staging, home re-styling, furniture research, interior painting and full remodel projects. Whether you just want advice or your whole home remodeled, we have got you covered. We have recently expanded our store to our website to offer select items via our e-commerce store. The Gingham Buffalo is hoping to have our NEW location open by Christmas 2015 on Main Street in Edwardsville.
6620 Center Grove Road, Edwardsville, il 62025 618-656-8700 • ginghambuffalo.com
1818 Chophouse Extraordinary dining experience with progressively innovative cuisine. Located in downtown Edwardsville. This casual yet elegant steakhouse has it all! Finest house butchered steaks, the freshest seafood around and AWESOME happy hour specials Tuesday-Friday from 4:30-6:30! 210 s. Buchanan st., edwardsville IL 62025 618-307-9300 • 1818Chophouse.com
THiNK StONE
Are you remodeling your bathroom, or building a new home from scratch? Stone is simultaneously contemporary, classic, upscale, and inviting. No material makes a bolder statement than stone. With thin veneers, you can put stone anywhere.
Columbia |
Jefferson City |
The Oslo Sectional. Available in over 500 fabrics. Starting at
St. Louis |
Kansas City
www.midwestblock.com
comfortable and stylish, no matter how you configure it Introducing the Oslo Sectional Ð the perfect and practical addition to any room. Oslo seats many guests comfortably without sacrificing style. And it offers a variety of configurations, finishes and over 500 fabrics to choose from. Let a Dau Neu designer help you pull it all together.
The Next Generation of Style™
16966 Manchester Rd. • Wildwood, MO • 636.405.2400 • dauneu.com
L i s t e n to t h e
Classic Rock and More
DownLoaD our free app on your our smar smart phone anD Lis Listen to us anywhere!
www.krmsradio.com .krmsradio.com www.lakejob.com 935rocksthelake.com ocksthelake.com Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
89
intro and four recipes Written by andreW Mark Veety
| recipes contributed by chefs Megan garrelts, Wes Johnson, Jan knobel, elaine Vanbuskirk and cassy Vires photography by Jennifer silVerberg
From pimento cheese and collard greens to hoppin’ john and lemon chess pie, these eight recipes celebrate the snacks, sides and sweets that accompany Southern suppers.
M
ore than any other region of the u.s., the foods of the south are defined by a single ingredient: time.
collection of new favorites from the pantheon of southern cooking – each a time-honored classic in its own right – to add southern accents to your table.
time is foundational to southern cuisine because, unlike so many things in modern cookery, it can’t be faked. the cook who assesses a recipe for the time it takes for tough, fibrous greens to turn tender or for a hog to slowly roast over coals until it can be pulled apart by hand has missed the point. When it comes to southern cooking, the wise cook understands that time is more of a guideline than a given. time teaches us that southern foods are done when they are done, and in the meantime, cooks must wait.
first up is pimento cheese, a ubiquitous staple of the southern diet with a utility that rivals condiments from other regions. our take on the classic starter is built from the ground up, blistering red peppers and garlic over a charcoal grill to form a smoky foundation and to create a satisfying nosh that is just as at home on a butter cracker as it is spread atop a salty, caramelized hamburger adorned with crisp breadand-butter pickles.
With this understanding in hand, the most revered southern chefs capitalize on the passage of time to focus on preparing a supporting cast of beloved snacks, sides and sweets that are more than capable of holding their own alongside traditional main courses such as fried chicken and chopped pork barbecue. Mindful of this, feast set out to create a
90
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
Whatever the southern-inspired entrée, there is arguably no more harmonious accompaniment than collard greens simmered with pork and vegetables. get the most out of greens by pairing them with pork shank that has been smoked over fruitwood and topped with crispy fried shallots and mustard seeds – pickled and delicate orbs that burst with a pop of welcome acid.
raw peanuts – affectionately known as “goober peas” in the south – simmered in their fibrous jackets are the unofficial currency of southern byways and back roads. Master the basics of the salty, intoxicating treat, and then explore adding elements of sweet, sour or spicy. don’t be in a rush to expel these toothsome morsels from their shells, though; take a whole peanut and crack the shell with your teeth instead, sucking out the brine before opening the shell and scooping out the tender insides. lastly, there is no pulling away from a southern table without helping yourself to a generous serving of dessert, and for us, this comes in the form of a slice of lemon chess pie or sour chocolate cake. in the chocolate cake, each delicate-yet-airy crumb begs for a waiting spoon and cup of joe. topped with decadent ganache, the cake has unmistakable hints of lardinfused smokiness balanced by a twang of tartness imparted by buttermilk and vinegar. hungry yet? then it’s long past time to start cooking.
PimenTo CheeSe ReCIPe By AnDReW MARk VeeTy
Serves | 6 to 8 | Sweet and Hot PePPer ringS
8 2⁄3 1⁄3 2
Fresno peppers cup white vinegar cup water cups sugar
roaSted red PePPerS and garlic
2 1 3 3
red bell peppers head garlic Tbsp extra virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper Tbsp sherry vinegar
Pimento cHeeSe
6 1 8 8 1 1 ½ ½ ¼ ¼ ¼
oz Quark cheese cup mayonnaise oz cream cheese oz shredded sharp Cheddar cheese roasted peppers and garlic (recipe below) Tbsp hot sauce Tbsp Worcestershire sauce tsp kosher salt tsp smoked paprika tsp ancho chile powder tsp chile powder tsp ground white pepper kosher salt butter crackers (to serve)
| Preparation – Sweet and Hot Pepper Rings | One day before, thinly slice Fresno peppers into rings, leaving ribs and seeds intact. In a saucepan, bring vinegar, water and sugar to a rolling boil. Add peppers and boil for 5 minutes. Reserve peppers to a pint-sized Mason jar and top off with liquid. Allow liquid to cool on counter, then cover with a lid and band, and store in the refrigerator. Peppers will keep in refrigerator for a week.
| Preparation – Roasted Red Peppers and Garlic | Light a charcoal grill, allow to heat for 4 hours and set for indirect grilling. Blister whole red peppers over coals until skin is blackened on all sides, turning regularly, about 10 minutes. Reserve to large paper bag and seal. Set aside to allow peppers to steam in bag. While peppers are steaming, cut top from head of garlic and place head on a square of aluminum foil. Drizzle with oil and season with salt and pepper. Fold foil into a pouch around garlic head and twist at top. Return to grill and, using a pair of tongs, spread remaining coals into a well shape and place pouch in middle of coals. Turn pouch occasionally and check garlic after 10 minutes, then every 2 minutes after, until a clove can be easily pierced with a toothpick. Reserve to a bowl to cool.
The addition of Quark – a fresh cheese of Germanic origin – ensures a creamy, spreadable texture while sweet and spicy Fresno peppers amplify heat.
Remove bell peppers from paper bag, peel away blackened skin and discard. Remove stems and slice peppers in half. Remove seeds and cut away ribs. Slice peppers into ¼-inch strips and then into ¼-inch sections, then place in a bowl. Remove any burnt sections of garlic head and discard. Turn head over and slowly squeeze until roasted cloves emerge. Combine garlic cloves with peppers and toss with sherry vinegar. Season with salt; cover and place in refrigerator until needed. Drain vinegar before using.
| Preparation – Pimento Cheese | One hour before preparation, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine all ingredients except kosher salt and crackers. Begin mixing on low until all ingredients are incorporated and then slowly increase speed. Mix for 1 or 2 minutes longer, then add kosher salt if needed. Reserve mixture to a serving bowl, cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. | To Serve | Serve pimento cheese on butter crackers and top with pickled sweet and hot pepper rings.
Boiled PeanutS three WayS Serves | 8 to 10 |
Serves | 8 to 10 |
Serves | 8 to 10 |
ClassiC
anything gose
Cherry PoP
2 gallons water 1½ cups kosher salt 2 lbs raw peanuts
2 1½ 1 8 4 10 3 1 1 2
2 1½ 12 1 1 2 2
| Preparation | In a large stockpot, combine water and salt and bring to a low boil. Add raw peanuts, still in shells. Maintain low boil for 5 hours, adding water as needed to keep peanuts covered. After 5 hours, begin checking peanuts for doneness every 30 minutes by selecting a nut from stockpot, separating meat from shell and testing its texture. The nut should be soft and salty without being mushy. Total cooking time will depend on age of peanuts. Fresh raw peanuts will cook faster than dried counterparts. Serve in a bowl and ladle a bit of the brine over nuts. Leftover nuts can be shelled and frozen for later use.
gallons water cups kosher salt lb celery dried árbol peppers tbsp crab boil spice oz pickled jalapeños cans or bottles gose-style beer onion head garlic lbs raw peanuts
| Preparation | In a large stockpot, combine water, salt, celery, arbol peppers, crab boil spice, pickled jalapeños and beer and bring to a low boil. Trim and halve onion and garlic head and add to stockpot. Add raw peanuts, still in shells. Maintain low boil for 5 hours, adding water as needed to keep peanuts covered. After 5 hours, begin checking peanuts for doneness every 30 minutes by selecting a nut from stockpot, separating meat from shell and testing its texture.
F resh raw peanuts can be found at international markets, or dried raw peanuts can be ordered online year-round.
RecIpeS by AnDRew MARk VeeTy
gallons water cups kosher salt oz black cherry concentrate tbsp plus 1 tsp dried lavender 14½-oz can red tart cherries in water vanilla beans lbs raw peanuts
| Preparation | In a large stockpot, combine water, salt, black cherry concentrate and dried lavender and bring to a low boil. Drain water from cherries and add to the stockpot. Split vanilla beans lengthwise, then in half, and add to stockpot. Add raw peanuts, still in shells. Maintain low boil for 5 hours, adding water as needed to keep peanuts covered. After 5 hours, begin checking peanuts for doneness every 30 minutes by selecting a nut from stockpot, separating meat from shell and testing its texture.
show
ln house
175 1 wo odl awn
BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH COCKTAILS
4059 BROADWAY, KANSAS CITY, MO 64111 (816)931-4401 THECORNERKC.COM
MI D DL E AN D HIG H SC HO OL CU LIN AR Y CE R TIF ICATIO N H + FA RM -TO -TA BL E LU NC OP EN HO US E SAT , NO V 7
Celebrating its 5th year,
Arts. Creativity. Invention. Social Responsibility.
don't miss one of fall ’s most exclusive events!
Over 30 Years.
AN INDEPENDENT 6-12 SCHOOL
7933 Main St. KC, MO 64114 816.444.5225 kcacademy.org
The Ladue News show house OctOber 10 - 25 1 7 5 1 W O O d l aW n
|
S t. l O u i S , M i S S O u r i 6 3 1 2 4
HOUSE TOUR S atur daY, O ctO b er 10 t h rO ug h Sun daY, O ctO b er 25 Op en tuesday-Sunday (clos ed Monday) 10am-5pm daily t i cke tS $20 in advance | $25 at the do or
TO PURCHA SE TICKETS , VISIT LADUENEWS.COM
PreSented bY
SUNTRUP COUNTY SUNTRUP WESTWEST COUNTY VOLVOVOLVO
beneficiarY
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
93
P iedmont caviar – mustard seeds that have most of their natural astringency removed before being pickled – adds a literal pop of acid and just a bit of heat to this classic dish.
COllaRd GREEnS wiTh SmOkEd pORk Shank, CRiSpy ShallOTS and piEdmOnT CaviaR
ReCIPe By AnDReW MARK VeeTy
Serves | 6 |
Collard GreenS
2
Pork Shank
1 1 ½ 2 3 5 1 1 3
2
gallon water cup kosher salt cup light brown sugar bay leaves dried árbol peppers whole cloves Tbsp yellow mustard seeds Tbsp peppercorns lbs fresh pork shanks cold water salt and freshly ground black pepper large pieces fruitwood (apple or peach)
Piedmont Caviar
1 1 1 ¼ 3
cup yellow mustard seeds water cup Champagne vinegar cup apple cider vinegar cup brown sugar tsp salt
CriSPy ShallotS
4 1 1 ½ 1⁄8 ½ ½ ½
94
shallots cup buttermilk cup peanut oil cup all-purpose flour tsp salt tsp chile powder tsp cayenne powder tsp freshly ground black pepper feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
1 3 6
lbs collard greens, stalks trimmed, cleaned and cut into ½-inch ribbons onion Tbsp bacon fat salt and freshly ground black pepper cups chicken stock
| Preparation – Pork Shank | In a stockpot 2 days before preparing final dish, combine water, salt, light brown sugar, bay leaves, árbol peppers, cloves, mustard seeds and peppercorns and bring to a boil to make a brine. Once boiling, turn down heat and allow to cool. Submerge pork shanks in brine. Cover and refrigerate for 48 hours, then remove shanks and rinse under cold water. Dry with towels and season liberally with salt and pepper. Light a charcoal grill and set for indirect grilling at a temperature of 225°F to 250°F. Place shanks opposite to the coals and add first chunk of fruitwood. Cover grill and maintain temperature. After 30 minutes, add second piece of wood. Smoke shanks until an instant-read thermometer reads 180°F internal temp; remove from grill and cover with aluminum foil to rest.
| Preparation – Piedmont Caviar | One day before preparing final dish, combine mustard seeds and water in a saucepan, about half full. Bring water to a boil and then strain seeds. Repeat process 5 times, using fresh water each time. In a clean saucepan, combine remaining ingredients. Bring mixture to a boil and add strained seeds. Boil for 2 minutes, then remove mixture from heat. Add mixture to a quart-sized Mason jar, top off with water if needed, cover and refrigerate.
| Preparation – Crispy Shallots | One hour before serving final dish, peel and slice shallots into 1⁄8-inch pieces. Marinate shallots in buttermilk for 30 minutes. In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, heat peanut oil. In a large bowl, add remaining ingredients and mix to combine. Prepare a paper towel-lined plate. Working in batches, transfer marinated shallots from buttermilk to dry ingredients and then to hot oil. Fry coated shallots until a crust forms and turns golden brown, then reserve to prepared plate and season with salt. Keep covered until needed.
| Preparation – Collard Greens | Gather collard green ribbons and coarsely chop into smaller sections. Roughly chop onion. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, melt bacon fat and add chopped onion, cooking until onion begins to turn translucent. Start adding chopped greens, a handful at a time, adding more as leaves wilt. Lightly season with salt and pepper. | To Serve | While collard greens are wilting, shred pork shanks from bone using two forks. Gather pork and bones and add to Dutch oven with greens. Add chicken stock to Dutch oven and bring to a simmer. Cover Dutch oven and allow greens to stew for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Greens are ready to serve when oncefibrous leaves are approaching – but not quite – fall-apart tender. Check seasoning and adjust as needed. The stock and liquid released from greens during cooking will have reduced to a flavored broth known as potlikker. Serve greens in a bowl or as a side dish with a bit of potlikker and top with crispy shallots and Piedmont caviar.
ChiCkEn & Dumplings Recipe by AndRew MARk Veety
Shredded dark-meat chicken and tender vegetables swim in a slowly simmered and flavorful broth with herbaceous, savory dumplings. serves | 6 |
BISTRO & MUSIC HOUSE SIGNATURE STYLE ‘NEW’ NEW ORLEANS CUISINE
ChiCken Thighs
1⁄3 ½ ½ ½ ½ ½ 6 4
cup flour tsp salt tsp onion powder tsp garlic powder tsp freshly ground black pepper tsp smoked paprika chicken thighs, bone-in, skin-on Tbsp bacon fat
512 North Euclid Central West End — 314.367.3644 — evangelinesSTL.com
ChiCken BroTh
4 2 1 2 1 1 4 4 4
cups chicken stock cups water head garlic onions, divided bunch chives leek stalks celery carrots Tbsp apple cider vinegar salt and freshly ground black pepper
Dumplings
2⁄3 1⁄3 2 2 ½ 2 2 2 ½ 2 2
cup all-purpose flour cup yellow cornmeal tsp melted lard tsp sugar tsp salt tsp baking powder Tbsp finely chopped fresh thyme, divided Tbsp finely chopped fresh tarragon, divided cup buttermilk limes, halved (to serve) Thai chile peppers, thinly sliced (to serve)
Open 7 Days a Week for Dinner!
T R A T T O R I A 1933 Edwards St, St Louis, MO 63110
(314) 773-2223
www.LorenzosTrattoria.com
| Preparation – Chicken Thighs | in a large bowl, combine flour, salt, onion powder, garlic powder, pepper and smoked paprika. One at a time, dredge chicken thighs in flour mixture and then set on a wire rack. in a large dutch oven over medium heat, melt bacon fat. place coated chicken thighs skin-side down in fat. Fry chicken for 5 minutes on skin side, then flip over and fry other side for 3 minutes. Remove chicken from dutch oven and reserve on a plate.
| Preparation – Chicken Broth | deglaze dutch oven with chicken stock and water, using a wooden spoon to break up and dissolve fond on bottom. trim and halve garlic head and 1 onion and add to dutch oven. tie chives with kitchen twine before adding to broth. Simmer for 20 minutes, then remove onion, garlic and chives and discard. trim and halve leek, clean under running water and slice into ½-inch sections. clean and peel remaining onion, chop into 1-inch-long sections and add to broth. trim ends of celery and chop into 1-inch-long sections. Add celery and carrots to broth. Add chicken thighs, skin-side up, back to broth. Add apple cider vinegar. bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 30 minutes.
llywelynspub.com /llywelynspubs @llywelynspubs
Over 30 Craft Beers Crafted Cocktails Scratch Traditional Fare A Perfect Atmosphere for any Occasion Llywelyn’s Pub is, and will always be, “Celtic for Good Times”
After 30 minutes, remove chicken from broth and set aside to cool, about 10 minutes. Raise heat to medium high to reduce some of broth while working with chicken. Remove bone from thighs and discard, then roughly chop or shred with a fork. Return chicken and any liquid that has collected back to broth and reduce heat to medium. Add salt and pepper to taste and reserve.
| Preparation – Dumplings | in a mixing bowl, combine flour, cornmeal, melted lard, sugar, salt, baking powder, half of thyme and half of tarragon. Add buttermilk slowly, while stirring mixture, until it comes together yet remains wet. with a large spoon, scoop out a bit of the dough and float it atop chicken broth; repeat until dough is gone. cover dutch oven with lid and raise heat to medium high. check dumplings after 7 minutes, and if not firmed up, cover again and check every minute for another 3 minutes, 10 minutes in total. | To Serve | Ladle broth, chicken and vegetables into a bowl. Squeeze lime juice into each bowl. top with sliced chiles and remaining thyme and tarragon. Serve. Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
95
hOppin’ JOhn Recipe by chef cassy ViRes
I may sound like an advertisement for Anson Mills, but in order to make authentic hoppin’ john, you need authentic ingredients. I suggest using Anson Mills Sea Island Red Peas and Anson Mills Carolina Gold rice. Serves | 6 | 1 1 2 3 3 6 ½ 3 1 4 1 6 ½
lb dried Sea Island Red Peas, rinsed ham hock yellow onions, divided (one halved and one small dice) cloves garlic, smashed bay leaves cups cold water lb diced hickory-smoked bacon stalks celery, small dice green bell pepper, small dice cups sliced okra cup Carolina Gold rice salt and freshly ground black pepper green onions, thinly sliced bunch parsley, roughly chopped
| Preparation | in a large saucepot, combine red peas, ham hock, onion halves, garlic and bay leaves. add cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer gently – do not boil – until peas are just tender, approximately 2 hours. Remove onion, garlic and bay leaves and discard. Remove bone from ham hock but reserve meat. strain peas and reserve liquid and peas. in the same emptied saucepot over medium-high heat, sauté bacon until crispy. add diced onion, celery, bell pepper and okra and sauté until fragrant. add 2 cups reserved cooking liquid and rice. Reduce heat to low and simmer until rice is tender, about 20 minutes. add peas and ham back into mixture and stir until warm. add more reserved liquid as needed. the mixture shouldn’t be soupy, but rather loose. season to taste with salt and pepper. gently stir in green onions and parsley just before serving.
ChOCOlaTE GRavy Recipe by Wes Johnson, chef-oWneR, MetRopolitan faRMeR in spRingfield, MissouRi
According to the the oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america (and the Southern Foodways Alliance), one prominent origin story for chocolate gravy is that it’s an offshoot of a trading network between Spanish-controlled Louisiana and the Tennessee Valley between the mid-18th and early 19th centuries, which brought “Mexican-style breakfast chocolate to the Appalachians.” However it came about, this combination of five simple ingredients – cocoa powder, sugar, flour, milk and lard – makes a rich replacement for white gravy or sausage gravy. Try it the next time you make biscuits and gravy. Serves | 4 | 1½ 3½ 2 1¼ 1
cups granulated sugar Tbsp cocoa powder Tbsp all-purpose flour cups fresh whole milk Tbsp lard
ingredients until evenly combined. add milk and mix to incorporate. in a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat, melt lard. add mixture to skillet and allow to cook for 8 to 10 minutes, taking care to stir mixture while cooking, until thickness of classic white gravy is achieved. serve with hot biscuits. feastmagazine.com
Recipe by Jan Knobel and elaine VanbusKiRK, oWneRs, the uppeR cRust in oVeRland paRK, Kansas
Flaky and classically Southern, chess pies are filled with sweet custard usually made with sugar, eggs, butter and small amounts of cornmeal or flour. yields | 1 9-inch pie | ½ 2½ 1½ 2 3 1⁄3 ¼ 1 2 4 1
cup softened unsalted butter tsp lemon zest cups sugar large eggs large egg yolks cup milk cup lemon juice tsp vanilla extract Tbsp cornmeal tsp flour 9-inch pie crust, unbaked and crimped, in a pie tin
| Preparation | preheat oven to 350°f. position oven rack in lower third of oven.
| Preparation | in a small mixing bowl, whisk together dry
96
lEmOn ChESS piE
OCTOBER 2015
in the bowl of stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, add butter and lemon zest and cream together on medium low until light. add sugar gradually, over several minutes. blend in whole eggs one at a time, then beat in yolks. continue beating for about 2 minutes. gradually add milk, then add lemon juice and vanilla extract. Reduce speed to low. in a separate bowl, combine cornmeal and flour and add to batter all at once. place pie crust in tin on a sheet pan. pour batter into crust and transfer sheet pan to oven to bake for 40 to 45 minutes. the pie is finished baking when top is puffy and center quivers just slightly when moved. transfer pie to cooling rack and allow to cool for at least 3 hours before serving.
Sour ChoColate Cake with GanaChe Recipe by Megan gaRRelts, pastRy chef and co-owneR, bluesteM in Kansas city and Rye in leawood, Kansas
Yields | 1 9-inch cake | Sour ChoColate Cake
2 ¾ 8 1 2 4
cups light brown sugar cup softened lard Tbsp softened unsalted butter cup buttermilk tsp white vinegar large eggs
GanaChe
1¾ 1 1 1 ¼ ½
cups cake flour tsp ground cinnamon tsp ground all-spice tsp baking powder tsp kosher salt cup plus 1 Tbsp black cocoa powder
3 9 1 2 ¼ 1
oz bittersweet chocolate, broken up into pieces oz unsweetened chocolate, broken up into pieces cup heavy cream Tbsp butter cup granulated sugar tsp vanilla extract
| Preparation – Sour Chocolate Cake | preheat oven to 325°f. grease a 9-inch round cake pan and set aside. in a large mixing bowl, cream together sugar, lard and butter. in a medium mixing bowl, whisk together buttermilk, white vinegar and eggs. add buttermilk mixture to creamed butter mixture and mix well. Mixture will curdle when combined. add remaining ingredients to batter and mix well, scraping sides of bowl to fully incorporate. transfer batter to prepared cake pan and bake for approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes. cake will dome slightly. Remove cake from oven once a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean and let cool.
| Preparation – Ganache | in a large bowl, combine chocolates. in a small saucepot over medium heat, bring heavy cream, butter and sugar to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. pour hot cream over chocolate and let sit for 1 minute. add vanilla extract and stir until chocolate has fully melted and becomes smooth. pour warm ganache over top of cooled sour chocolate cake. slice and serve.
Using lard in the cake batter adds smoky flavor and a Southern twist. If preferred, unsalted butter can be substituted for lard.
DEVELOP A SOUTHERN ACCENT. From crispy fried chicken and flaky buttermilk biscuits to fried
green tomatoes and collard greens, few foods are as comforting as down-home, Southern-style dishes. This month, we invited our Instagram followers to share photos of Southern eats and drinks by using the hashtag #feastgram. For a taste of classic stick-to-your-ribs sides such as pimento cheese, boiled peanuts, okra and hoppin’ john, turn to the Best of the Rest cooking feature on p. 90. Then, flip to p. 62 to learn the difference between Northern- and Southern-style cornbreads from St. Louis pastry chef Simone Faure.
|1|
| 1 | Spencer pernikoff @whiskeyandsoba Missing my old Sunday standard, @JoshGalliano’s perfect fried chicken. What are you eating today? #Food #STLEats #StLouis | 2 | We eat Stuff @weeatstuffstl Celebrating our newly adopted dog by having some wonderful hot Nashville chicken at @STLSouthern with the ‘rents. #STL
|2|
|3|
| 3 | rye @rye_kc Know what’s good for tailgating? FRIED CHICKEN. #FriedChicken #ForeverRoyal #KCMO #VisitKC #Tailgating | 4 | old Standard fried chicken @oldstandardfriedchicken FRIED CHICKEN TIME! #BotanicalHeights #FriedChicken #StLouis #STL #SouthCity #ComfortFood | 5 | lanmou chocolateS @lanmouchocolates Bourbon-infused sugar in the raw, perfect for finishing cookies, pies or fruit or as an additive to your favorite tea, coffee or cocktail. #KCEats #LocalKC #KCMO #Bourbon #KansasCity #Desserts
|4|
| 6 | J. pollack photography @jpollackphoto Fried chicken dinner, family style. @WhiteFenceFarm1 #Route66 #RoadTrip #FoodPhotography #Dinner
|5|
| 7 | the Social affair @thesocialaffairstl {Fried Chicken + Waffle Bar} #VintageWedding #BestFoodStationEver #SouthernGoodness #STL | 8 | guS guS fun BuS @gusgusfunbus Call it what you will... Beaufort boil, frogmore stew, low-country boil... it’s a heaping pile of goodness. #BeaufortBoil #LowCountryBoil #FrogmoreStew #Shrimp #Sausage
|6|
| 9 | Strange donutS
@strangedonuts It’s national fried chicken day. (at Juniper)
| 10 | aeSh deSign @aeshdesign Dinner. #FriedPickles #FriedChicken @4HandsBrewingCo #AESHSTL
|7|
Want to see your photos in the November issue of Feast? Next month, our focus turns to one of our favorite fall fruits: apples. We want to see the apples you’re picking at local orchards to the pies, caramel apples, salads, ciders and more you’re ordering at restaurants or making at home. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Thu., Oct. 1.
98
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
|8|
|9|
| 10 |
PHOTOGRAPHy COuRTESy INSTAGRAM uSERS
#feastgram
PROMOtiON
abilities. NRF technology is so advanced and specific it can determine hormone imbalances, organ function weakness, and much more.
Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest
A Personal Recipe for Your Individual Health Challenges Dr. Bryan Deloney, Chesterfield, is bringing one of the newest advancements in natural health and healing to local residents. Deloney is helping patients reverse health challenges, such as excess weight, diabetes, sleep apnea, thyroid disorders fibromyalgia and autoimmune issues, using the NutriMost Resonant Frequency Technology (NRF).
Deloney explains, “we determine your personal recipe for healthy weight and healing using resonant frequencies”. Using an understanding of resonant frequencies, Dr. Deloney can determine precisely what the body needs to bring it into its optimal fat burning zone and keep it there. This is done by measuring the baseline of each factor being measured (hormone, neurotransmitter, heavy metal, bacteria, virus, organ, etc.), and then the doctor can determine what supplement or formula is needed by observing what the effect of that item is on the baseline (whether it makes it more coherent or less coherent). The program displays the results and identifies the biomarkers (vitamins, minerals, hormones, neurotransmitters, toxins, microbes, etc.) that are out of range regarding the fat burning zone. Once the outof-range fat biomarkers are identified, the program will determine exactly what is needed to bring the biomarkers back into fat burning. It will identify what is needed nutritionally; but more than that, the foundation of the whole program is the ability to determine the exact “recipe” for each person’s fat burning. The program creates a “recipe” for hormones/ neurotransmitters, a “recipe” for detox and a “recipe” for the fat burning formula.
Everyone Gains Weight Differently Due to Hormones
The NutriMost Ultimate Fat Loss System is safe, fast, and effective. You’ll clear out harmful toxins and balance your hormones as you lose fat at an unbelievable pace. Typical results see patients losing 20 – 40 pounds in 40 days. And the best part? The results are permanent. Following your 40 days of fat loss, NutriMost will reset your metabolism and weight set point, so you can keep the weight off for good. This safe, doctor-supervised system works in just 6 weeks, guaranteed.
N
Once in this balance state and fat burning zone: • You experience no hunger or cravings, unlike other weight loss programs • The typical fat loss is between ½ pound and 2 pounds of fat per day • You will have more energy, better sleep, and you will be in a better mood • Your hormones will become more and more balanced • You will enter a state of autophagy, which helps the body overcome all sorts of health challenges
Yo u
First, patients undergo a fast, painless scan of their body’s cells by using the comprehensive electroimpedance resonant frequency (NRF) technology. This allows Dr. Deloney to take a “hormonal fingerprint” of every factor that affects weight gain, including fat burning, fat storage, metabolism, the organs involved, hormones, neurotransmitters, vitamins, minerals, metals, toxins, bacteria, viruses, mycoplasma, candida, parasites and nanobacteria. It gives him the capability of measuring and assisting the body’s innate healing
LEt tHE BaLaNciNG aND HEaLiNG BEGiN!
W h at
NRF technology can target your hormone imbalances and get to the cause of your weight gain, overcoming weight loss resistance and solving your weight challenges.
ee
oK t d
now!
Dr. Deloney offers Free Consultations Participants may purchase:
> Body Composition Analysis $27 Value: $100
Contact NutriMost Missouri at 844-STL-MOST for more information or to schedule your free consultation with Dr. Deloney
www.nutrimostmissouri.com Simply Health | 126 Hilltown Village Center | Chesterfield MO 63017
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2015
99
Our Lowest Posted Price Every Day
Wine Excellence! We have more Certified Specialists of Wine (CSW) than any other local grocer. The CSW certification, one of the most respected credentials in the wine industry, is a rigorous exam developed by the Society of Wine Educators. Whether you’re looking for a wine to cellar or to serve, our CSW experts will help you find some truly wonderful wines!
Or, at Schnucks we like to call it WINESDAYS! Š2015 Schnucks
100
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2015
For our list of CSWs and locations, visit schnucks.com